Sauce Magazine // May 2018

special margarita at lily's mexican restaurant, p. 34

S T L'S BES T

MARGARITAS THE STORY OF

REVIEW

5 PLACES TO

LONA'S LIL EATS

PRIVADO

TRY THIS MONTH

P. 43

P. 17

P. 13

ST. LOUIS’ May 2018 INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

TEX- M EX TRIUMPH P. 9 FREE,MAGAZINE MAY 2018 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE I1

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M AY 2018 • VOLUME 18, ISSUE 5 What’s your favorite Tex-Mex in St. Louis?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER SENIOR DESIGNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Definitely Taco Circus.

There’s a great vibe, and I love the tacos and breakfast burrito.

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

Allyson Mace My guilty pleasure Meera Nagarajan is a pitcher of margs Heather Hughes at Tequila Mexican Restaurant – alongside an Catherine Klene entree covered in queso.

Matt Sorrell Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Lauren Healey, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Laura Kern, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Claire Ma, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Andie Divelbiss, Laura Kern, Claire Ma Mi Ranchito in University City. The carne asada tacos are the best!

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2018 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 May 2018

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contents MAY 2018

editors' picks

dine & drink

9 E AT THIS

27 A SE AT AT THE BAR

Avocado salad at Southwest Diner

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by meera nagarajan

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera, and ted and jamie kilgore

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11 REASONS TO GO TO T H E TACO & ICE CREAM JOINT RIGHT NOW by heather hughes 13

HIT LIST 5 places to try this month

egg with shiitake, calamansi and osetra at privado p. 17

30 ELIXIR Sugar, sugar

by katie herrera

last course

by lauren healey, heather hughes, meera nagarajan and matt sorrell

50 STUFF TO DO by laura kern and claire ma

reviews

54 WHAT I D O

17 N E W AN D NOTABLE

Patrick Horine

by catherine klene

Privado

by michael renner 22

LUNCH RUSH Squatter’s Cafe

by matt berkley

features

NIGHTLIFE Small Change

by stephanie zeilenga

THE MAGNIFICENT M A R G A R ITA by matt sorrell

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

43

THE TENACITY OF LONA LUO by matt sorrell

May 2018

STL's Best Margaritas Lily’s Special margarita from Lily’s Mexican Restaurant. Learn about this and other magnificent margaritas from St. Louis bars, as well as the history of the cocktail and classic recipes and tips on p. 34.

34 25

COVER DETAILS

Tune in to 90.7 KWMU when Sauce staff join St. Louis on the Air to discuss must-try new restaurants, then check back later in the month when Lona’s Lil Eats owners Lona Luo and Pierce Powers share their story with staff writer Matt Sorrell.

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e d i t o r s' p i c k s

EAT THIS Don’t get us wrong: We love cheese-laden Tex-Mex, but the avocado salad is our current favorite on Southwest Diner’s menu. Wedges of avocado are coated in breadcrumbs, fried until golden and crisp, then placed on a bed of romaine lettuce with pico de gallo and queso fresco. Creamy sambal dressing delivers garlic and basal heat, while the PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

hot-cold-crunchy-creamy textural balance keeps your taste buds guessing from bite to bite.

SOUTHWEST DINER, 6803 SOUTHWEST AVE., MAPLEWOOD, 314.260.7244, SOUTHWESTDINERSTL.COM

May 2018

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Let’s start with the obvious. The sweet, piquant pork cochinita pibil and rich, savory beef barbacoa tacos alone are worth the trip.

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Toppings are up to you from an entire buffet-style salsa bar with everything from fresh cilantro and onions to pico de gallo to house-made tomatillo salsa.

All the ice cream is made inhouse with flavors ranging from Nutella to avocado to rose petals to butter-roasted onions.

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The paletas (popsicles) come in a sweet and spicy mangonada flavor, made with mango, sour chamoy sauce and chili powder.

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There’s a chocolate fountain for churros – but the staff will dip paletas, too.

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You can get a gigantic Choco Taco made with your choice of two ice cream flavors wedged into a waffle cone taco shell.

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There’s a hot sauce wall. A wall of hot sauces.

11 REASONS TO GO TO

T HE TACO & I CE C REAM JOINT RIG HT N OW The Taco & Ice Cream Joint does more than combine two of our favorite things. Large portions, low prices and a range of spoton traditional and creative flavors have us pulling up colorful chairs in the cavernous Cherokee Street spot so often our loved ones are worried. If you somehow need more motivation than the restaurant’s name, here are 11 more reasons to check out The Taco & Ice Cream Joint now. – Heather Hughes

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You can cool down with the best sparkling water (Topo Chico), or opt for a fruitflavored Jarritos Mexican soda or a refreshing agua fresca like cucumber-mint or lemonadecilantro.

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The Mexican poutine, aka carne asada fries: a massive tray of crinkle-cut fries topped with hunks of steak, queso, pickled jalapenos, pico de gallo, queso fresco, sour cream, guacamole and a creamy chipotle sauce.

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The quesadillas weigh approximately 50 pounds and could feed a small city.

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Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and Takis make appearances in everything from sweet treats to elotes (Mexican street corn).

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PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

The Taco & Ice Cream Joint 2738 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.224.5799, Facebook: The Taco & Ice Cream Joint

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hit list

5 new places to try this month

the benevolent king

THE BENEVOLENT KING

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS COURTESY OF THE BENEVOLENT KING

The intimate space of Ben Poremba’s latest restaurant is decked out with dark walls, gilded accents and music with a Moroccan vibe. Layered, bright flavors find their way into every dish on the constantly changing, Moroccan-themed menu – like citrusy marinated olives, harissa-smoked sturgeon and a tajine of sweetbreads with preserved lemon. The Benevolent King has portions and beautiful plating similar to its sister restaurant, Olio. Start things off with the shareable farmer cheese plate – a house-made soft cheese spiced with dried herbs and served with crudités. A side of the house-made brown butter couscous should accompany any order. The simple but stunning dish is fluffy, nutty and topped with grilled vegetables. Bar manager Tony Saputo’s cocktail menu is pricey but diverse and delicious. Try the King of the Righteous: a daiquiri riff with Plantation rum and a bitter finish of Amargo-Vallet liqueur and grapefruit that will keep you sipping. Desserts are also unique, from rose-scented custard to a flan-like creme caramel.

7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0440, thebenevolentking.com

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Good Fortune has delivered on years of hype and intense branding with its 28-seat dining room in Botanical Heights. The stylish, minimally decorated exposed brick space provides backdrop for “New American Chinese,” thoughtful small plates centered on Chinese flavors. Instead of beef and broccoli, you’ll find Good Fortune’s beef and brassica a composed plate of fall-apart tender braised meat alongside al dente broccoli in a pool of savory beef jus. The piquant, salty shu mai pork dumplings are a little more straightforward, while the simply named Mushrooms dish offers complex flavors of wild ginger and stinging nettles in a puree topped by the earthy, tangled branches of whole hen of the woods.

Beer and wine are complemented by a short, tiki-leaning cocktail menu. Order a solid mai tai or try the sweet, tart Jungle Bird made with rum, Campari and pineapple. Good Fortune is also pushing takeout and hopes to offer delivery and lunch soon.

Rush Bowls is a great place to appease both the angel and devil on the shoulders of healthconscious people who still want to indulge occasionally. Serving both bowls – essentially fruit blended into concrete thickness and garnished with a cornucopia of toppings – and more traditional smoothies, the offerings are more filling and less sweet than you might expect.

Standouts include the Summit Bowl with acai, strawberry, cherry and vanilla soy or fat-free milk topped with organic granola and honey, as well as the Caught in the Rain smoothie, featuring pineapple, strawberry, shaved coconut, fat-free frozen yogurt and pineapple juice.

If nothing on the robust menu suits your taste buds or dietary needs, customization is highly encouraged.

RUSH BOWLS

GOOD FORTUNE

1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.726.4666, goodfortunestl.com

After almost a dozen years, chef Anthony Devoti rebranded his Five Bistro on The Hill, opening J. Devoti Trattoria with an updated menu and interior. The restaurant still has a farm-to-table menu that changes daily with Italian favorites like house-made ravioli, but now also includes items like a house burger and an upscale happy hour. Not an all-you-can-eat wings affair, the happy hour features well cocktail specials, a trio of discounted wines (white, red and rosé), pizza by the slice and small bites like a deviled turkey egg topped with folds of house-made coppa served with pickled veggies and a dollop of grain mustard. The pizza is made with delicious, flavorful sourdough crust and a rotating selection of toppings for $7 a slice.

J. DEVOTI TRATTORIA

Partly owned by the team behind Fork & Stix, Kiin is serving knockout Thai in a swankier downtown space. The fresh, spicy green curry and tangy khao soi (the famous, goldenrodcolored northern Thai curry soup) are as good as Fork & Stix’s originals, but take the opportunity to branch out from your regular order. Every meal should begin with the spicy, herbal ground chicken dish, larb gai. The hung leh is a deep, earthier curry made with incredibly tender pieces of pork shoulder and pork belly complemented by fresh ginger and crushed peanuts. Soak up all the rich, fragrant brown curry broth with the accompanying rice. Judging by the crowds, we’re not the only ones excited to welcome Kiin downtown.

KIIN ESSENTIALLY THAI

550 N. Seventh St., St. Louis, 314.241.1989

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from top: fish sauce-brined chicken with radishes from good fortune, moroccan fresh cheese with cured olives from the benevolent king

5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, jdevoti.com

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GOOD FORTUNE PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; CHEESE PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS COURTESY OF THE BENEVOLENT KING

227 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.2900, rushbowls.com

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

cobia with fermented green curry and nuoc chom at privado

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

privado

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Miles Davis’ “All Blues” pl ayed as I took my se at at one of the four two-tops in front of Privado’s wide-open kitchen. A sophisticated aperitif of prosecco, vermouth and Aperol furthered the mood. I was finally here, along with 15 others lucky enough to buy a ticket to Mike Randolph’s latest. Latest what? Fantasy? Experiment? Gamble? No one cared. We were on Randolph’s turf, trusting that the forthcoming 12-course tasting menu would astound.

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a foie gras mousse-filled Twinkie and an apple slice taco shell filled with pickled apple, goat milk ice cream and caramely shaved gjetost cheese.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

My expectations shifted with each bite-size course as Randolph’s subtle unpredictability kept us off balance.

Marrying seemingly incongruent flavors, his riff on the world’s most famous egg (the hot-cold soft-boiled egg from Alain Passard’s L’Arpege in Paris) subbed shiitake pistachio mushroom custard and white for Passard’s creme chocolate fraiche, a calamansi truffle at citrus sabayon sauce for privado maple syrup and osetra caviar for chopped chives, resulting in a unified palate pleaser of earth, cream, citrus and brine in just a few bites. The straightforward, medium-bodied sparkles of Moutard Champagne NV cleanly cut through the creamy richness.

Anyone familiar with Randolph’s peripatetic spirit knows to go with the flow. In the past nine years, he has opened eight restaurants with a vast range of cuisine – from breakfast at Half & Half to inventive fine dining like Little Country Gentleman and the Diversion dinner series. That’s the thing with Randolph: If his innovative concepts don’t pan out, he moves on, doubling down on new, sometimes even riskier ventures. It’s why he garnered two James Beard nominations in 2016 for Best Chef: Midwest and Best New Restaurant for Público, his Latin American-inspired restaurant still going strong on The Loop. It’s why he closed his first restaurant, The Good Pie, to open Randolfi’s Italian Kitchen, which he shuttered in September 2017 to transform the space yet again – leading to another Beard nomination this year.

AT A GLANCE

privado May 2018

Which brings me back to Miles Davis and the allure of a restaurant open only on Friday and Saturday nights for a single seating of 16 diners. Simply put, Privado is Randolph’s greatest theater of food yet, staged with no-nonsense clarity and such confidence that its sole signage is a hand-lettered sheet of paper taped to the door. Entering is like arriving to a private dinner party without knowing fully what’s in store.

What seemed familiar didn’t always progress or resolve as expected, creating a delicious tension much like the quirky melodic structure underlying “All Blues.” A tiny ice-cream cone amusebouche filled with tuna ceviche and sesame ice cream startled then pleased; a dessert course teased then astonished with

Where 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221, privadostl.com

As much as I liked Randolph’s Little Country Gentleman when I reviewed it in 2013, I sensed a bit of preciousness seeping through the quaintly named, multi-course-only concept. Privado is no less serious, creative or fun, but is more mature and focused.

Paced by Randolph’s curated soundtrack – Marley, Sinatra, Prince, Whitney – more courses arrived: A cube of sablefish in a green curry sauce funked up with nuoc cham; a trotter dumpling in a tablespoon of trotter consommé scented with lemongrass and garnished with slivers of carrot and black Périgord truffle; a slice of raw hamachi atop parsnip puree with a sweet, pungent duck liver-based sauce and more truffle flecks.

Even a simple lozenge-sized beetroot served in a tiny wooden spoon midway through

Vibe A sense of mystery, like arriving at a small, private dinner party without knowing the menu. Count on a wildly eclectic soundtrack.

the meal exploded with brilliant flavor from a licorice root vinaigrette, resetting the palate for meat. A deep breath, a sip of a gorgeous red Rhone, and I was refreshed for a bite of tender, aged duck swabbed through a sauce fragrant with star anise. Sip for sip, bite for bite, a savory Barbaresco made the charred rib-eye steak with mushrooms and bordelaise sauce even more sensual.

Time has a tendency to distort during long, multi-course events. But by the final dessert course two-and-a-half hours later – Madeira and a decadent chocolate soufflé with chocolate-porcini sauce – we had gone to the extreme and back without feeling exhausted by the process.

When faced with two options, Randolph will always choose both.

Along with unpredictable pop-up nights (everything from Thai curry to a resurrection of the old Randolfi’s), every weekend the bar offers a changing a la carte menu that combines some Randolfi’s favorites with the new Privado (online reservations with a $20 deposit per diner are required).

I was delighted to find the white Bolognese on the bar menu on my visit – fat pappardelle noodles were sauced with ground pork, heavy cream and vermouth, topped with a custardy cured egg yolk.

Thin slices of lamb loin wrapped around two cuts of spicy lamb merguez sausage got their smoky flavor from the wood-fired pizza oven. Three stumpy carrot pillars comically separated the two cuts, with one resting on French green lentils and the other on a veal-lamb-Madeira reduction.

With Privado, Randolph may have hit the sweet spot of cooking on his own terms without going broke. The name may mean “private” in Spanish, but I’m here to tell you Privado is actually a mashup of “private” and “bravado.” No question about it.

Entree Prices Prepaid $120, plus $80 wine pairing, for the tasting menu; $18 to $30 for the a la carte bar menu (reservations required with $20 deposit per diner)

When Fri. and Sat. – 6 to 11 p.m. The tasting menu is limited to one 7 p.m. seating each night.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

squatter’s cafe

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Tucked into the KDHX building in Grand Center, Squatter’s Cafe could easily pass for a little urban coffee shop. But instead of cappuccinos, the compact lunch counter quickly turns out plate after plate masterfully prepared by James Beard-nominated chef-owner Rob Connoley.

With just a couple hot plates and a fridge, Connoley and his sous chef Justin Bell produce a constantly evolving breakfast and lunch menu of indulgently good departures from classic dishes prepared from scratch and locally sourced. This culinary powerhouse proves big flavors come in small packages. Here are some of the standouts.

GRAIN BOWL

VEGETABLE MARROW As a devout carnivore, it takes a lot for me to recommend a main that doesn’t include meat, but Squatter’s vegetable marrow deserves to be cherished. Scrumptious roasted carrots are cut in half lengthwise, cored and laid on a bed of nutty wheat berries and Squatter’s version of Indian halwa, made with carrots, whey left over from yogurtmaking and Indian spices.

The carrot innards are also transformed in a savory carrotwhite bean hummus that fills some of the hollowed cavities to resemble a plate of bone marrow. Other carrot “bones” are filled with beet-white bean hummus “marrow.”

A base of immensely satisfying wheat berries is what ignites this dish. The light, nutty grain retains a unique earthiness while soaking up the flavors of surrounding players – in this case, a handful of soft pickled beets and slender oyster mushrooms that melt into each bite. Hiding under the rest are a house

detail and commitment to eliminating waste. Topping the whole thing off is a healthy dose of salty, sweet and slightly creamy honeysoy dressing that pulls the ingredients together and permeates the dish. I liked the addition of tender, salty bits of chicken confit, but pork confit is also available for a surcharge (both can be added to any dish). The bowl is satisfying, but won’t leave you overstuffed. If I worked nearby, I’d order it at least once a week.

be overkill for this meaty dish big enough to satisfy even the hungriest of ranch hands.

HASH It’s easy to understand why the hash is the cafe’s bestselling dish. A bright and fun take, it features a mound of itty bitty cubes of sweet potato cut so uniformly

BREKKIE BISCUIT

umami spread made from leftover roasted veggie scraps and a layer of black tea panna cotta. Bringing a unique savory depth you may not be able to place, they’re a great example of Connoley’s attention to

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Breakfast for lunch is big here. The Brekkie Biscuits are often unavailable because they sell out so fast. The fluffy, house-made biscuit is slathered in rich country gravy and layered with insanely good, sweet candied bacon and a pair of fresh local eggs. Adding the pork or chicken confit would

you could imagine it’s someone’s full-time job to dice them. A down-home country feel comes out in local apples and a slightly sweet butterscotch sauce.

The sweet elements play well

with intensely savory pork confit that’s like the best bacon you’ve ever had. All of this is topped with a bright sunny egg that explodes at the first touch and leaks yolk like a sauce throughout.

THE DOWNSIDE There are only around seven tables and a handful of bar seats. While coziness is part of Squatter’s allure, it can be an issue at high-traffic times.

Weekend brunch especially finds groups milling about waiting for an open spot, impatiently tapping their feet while you’re trying to relax and enjoy a coffee.

Squatter’s Cafe 3524 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.7556, squatterscafe.com

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reviews NIGHTLIFE

The relaxed attitude doesn’t extend to the cocktail menu – no surprise given the mixology masterminds Small Change in charge.

2800 Indiana Ave., Owners St. Louis, Facebook: Ted Charak Small Change STL and Jamie and Ted Kilgore gave Planter’s House alum and bar manager Harrison Massie control of the specialty cocktail list. With only six drinks, it’s focused and encompasses enough of a spectrum – sweet and smoky to light and boozy – to please nearly everyone. Each is named after a Tom Waits song (if you were wondering whether the bar name was a reference to the 1976 album).

from left, the cognacbased christmas card from a hooker in minneapolis and the rum and popsiclebased electric sugar

NIGHTLIFE

small change

BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

M

ixing craft cocktails with Red Hot Riplets from a vending machine may sound like a bar identity crisis, but the marriage of high and low is a happy one at Small Change. Where the owners’ other place, Planter’s House, is perfect for a special night out, the new Benton Park spot works for any occasion.

Outside, Small Change feels like a nothing-special neighborhood

O R D E R T H I S May 2018

bar marked by an old Falstaff sign and a green wooden door.

But inside awaits a relaxed, retro vibe with friendly hipster bartenders shaking up cocktails to a mellow mix of tunes featuring the likes of Cat Stevens, the Beatles and the Velvet Underground. White twinkle lights adorn the ceiling, lending a soft glow to the exposed brick walls hung with an assortment of old-school bar memorabilia like a Schlitz clock, a giant Old

Fitzgerald bottle and a big, slightly battered Budweiser sign.

A few TVs play whatever game happens to be on, but they don’t dominate the room.

A small selection of wine is available in addition to a nice list of local and national beer cans. Stag and a rotating selection from Civil Life are the only beers on tap. There’s no kitchen, but you don’t have to go hungry. Just take a handful of change to the two vending machines in the back for chips, candy and even Lunchables.

Mac and cheese and ramen noodles are also available and can be zapped in the microwaves sitting nearby.

From left, the double PBJ Time shot and the rotating, amaro-based Little Drop of Poison

The Waltzing Matilda is a delightfully effervescent vodka cocktail with lemon and bubbles. Cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur) adds some sweetness, while zucca (an Italian rhubarb aperitif ) brings a hint of bitterness. For something a little earthier, try the Such a Scream: a complex take on a flip that combines whiskey, beet liqueur, lemon, allspice dram, bitters and a creamy, foamy egg white. The Jockey Full of Bourbon is a Manhattan on tap featuring rotating combinations of whiskey, vermouth and bitters. On my visit, it included Four Roses, blanc vermouth, sweet vermouth,

Suze and Burlesque bitters that resulted in a sweet but sultry, very smooth take on the classic.

For another high-low touch, Small Change offers two intriguing specialty shots.

The Little Drop of Poison is simply a rotating shot of amaro (a bitter Italian herbal liqueur) and a complementary base. The one I tried, Fernet Branca with Contratto Bitter, was syrupy like port and had a bracing medicinal bitterness that wouldn’t appeal to everyone.

The second shot, PBJ Time, comes in two glasses: one with peanut butter fat-washed Camus cognac and the other with Manischewitz Concord Grape wine. Taken together, it tastes – you guessed it – exactly like a PB&J. Kinda weird, kinda genius.

The clientele is your typical neighborhood bar mix, welcoming a wide range of ages and even dogs. The vending machines also sell dog treats, and many nights you’ll find at least one or two furry friends roaming around inside. It’s a place to bring all your friends from the picky hipster cocktail aficionado to the up-foranything pal who’s happy as long as the drinks are cheap and cold. Embracing both could feel forced, but like the experienced bartenders they are, the Small Change team struck a harmonious balance that feels genuine.

Small Change’s successful marriage of high and low makes it an ideal neighborhood bar.

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dine

& drink

north shore sol vodka is infused with citrus, making it the ideal base for a honey gimlet.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; GIMLET PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Handmade in small batches, North Shore Sol Vodka is infused and distilled with lemon, lime and orange zest, then finished with chamomile flowers.

The citrus comes through first, with floral and honey notes in the finish. Try it on the rocks or TED AND JAMIE in a Honey Gimlet: In an iceKILGORE filled shaker, combine 2 ounces USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart North Shore Sol, 3 ∕4 ounce and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House honey syrup (equal parts honey and water) and 1 ounce lime juice. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass, then garnish with chamomile flowers. $33. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com May 2018

Kick off patio season with 2016 Dashe Les Enfants Terrible Zinfandel Mendocino Cuvee, an outstanding summertime red with seductive, juicy raspberry aromas that pairs well with GLENN BARDGETT anything. This 100 percent Member of the Missouri Wine zinfandel from Mendocino in and Grape Board and wine northern California has only director at Annie Gunn’s 13.8 percent alcohol and is so easy to sip. Named for “unruly children,” it’s the most fun, yummiest, chill-able red I’ve tasted in many moons.

Think of it as a rosé that escaped puberty. $27, Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

Brew Hub finally opened a taproom in the Gateway City, and all IPA drinkers should acquaint themselves with its 2017 Great American Beer Festival gold medal winner, Rome City IPA. This brew boasts classic American KATIE HERRERA IPA characteristics with its Director of beer at STL copper color, medium body, Barkeep and account manager at Craft Republic clean finish and lingering bitterness. Aromatics are hop-dominated with notes of tropical fruit and citrus, while malt-balanced flavors lean toward pineapple, grapefruit, peach and grass.

On draft. Brew Hub Taproom, 5656 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.5453, tapbrewhub.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

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BEER

sugar, sugar breweries add lactose to make sweeter, creamier beers in styles beyond the stout B Y K AT I E H E R R E R A

Beer lovers know that lactose isn’t just for dunking chocolate chip cookies.

With its iconic milk stout, Left Hand Brewing Co. popularized the trend of using milk sugar to balance the incessant roasted character of stout malt bills, creating a mildly sweeter palate without excessively increasing alcohol content.

Now, the unfermentable sugar is working its magic in diverse styles beyond the stout.

Breweries are experimenting with lactose to add body and texture to unexpected beers.

It creates an opaque, creamy look and adds a touch of sweetness that works to highlight and enhance other flavor-driving ingredients like hops, fruits and herbs.

Try these fun and varied introductions to the world of lactose beers beyond the stout.

Grimm Artisanal Ales Apricot Pop! One of many in Grimm’s dessert Berliner series, this tart wheat exudes a vibrant acidity and juicy stone fruit character that blend exceptionally will with the creamy palate produced by lactose and vanilla.

22-ounce bottle: $12. Saint Louis Hop Shop, 2600 Cherokee St., 314.261.4011, saintlouishopshop.com

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Third Wheel Brewing Dyslexic API There’s nothing backward about this beauty, featuring heavy-hitting mandarin orange and tropical fruit aromatics and a medium-bodied texture that pulls through the palate with a balancing dose of bubble gum-y sweetness. On draft. Third Wheel Brewing, 4008 I-70 N. Outer Road, St. Peters, 636.323.9810, thirdwheelbrewing.com

The Bruery / Funky Buddha Brewery ¡Guava Libre!

A pastry-focused collaboration between two of the most experimental breweries in the U.S., this medium-bodied and balanced brew is reminiscent of Nilla wafers topped with juicy tropical fruit preserves.

750-milliliter bottle: $13. The Wine and

Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

Evil Twin Brewing IPA Kolata This balanced, New England pineapple and coconut lactose IPA is dominated by a juicy pineapple aroma, a strong lactose presence on the tongue and a hint of toasted coconut on the back palate. Four-pack: $13.75. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton. craftbeercellar.com

Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. Big T Be on the lookout for Narrow Gauge’s first milkshake IPA, which has yet to see a keg. The beer will include the addition of cookies, cacao nibs and vanilla beans

along with lactose for an IPA that will no doubt win a special place in the hearts of the NEIPA fan club. Narrow Gauge Brewing Co., 1595 US 67, Florissant, 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. First Impression This creamy nitro white ale gets its body and texture from both lactose and tiny nitrogen bubbles. It’s delicately nuanced with grainy undertones, juicy sweet raspberry notes and a rounded softness that cloaks the palate thanks to Madagascar vanilla beans. It’s not currently available, but don’t worry – you’ll have a second chance at a First Impression on 4 Hands’ beer list. 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com May 2018

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Milkshake IPAs add lactose (and usually fruit and vanilla) to the hazy New England version of the style for juicy, fruity beers boasting a little more tongue-heavy texture than regular IPAs. Dessert Berliner Weisses give the traditionally tart wheat style a sweet makeover along the same lines as popular pastry stouts. They incorporate vanilla, lactose and sometimes fruit for a more custard-like Berliner.

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M lily's special FROM LILY'S MEXICAN RESTAUR ANT

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Margarita STORY AND RECIPES BY MATT SORRELL // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

The margarita is one of the most ordered cocktails in the U.S. for good reason. This sublime amalgamation of tequila, lime juice and orange liqueur has a little bit of everything the palate desires: salt, sweet, sour – even some smoke, depending on the tequila.

The iconic margarita is basically a tequila version of the Daisy – a venerable category of sour cocktails comprised of spirits, citrus juice, orange cordial and soda water. Since margarita is Spanish for daisy, that origin story seems most plausible, but there are myriad tales of how the drink came to be – most involving homage to someone’s wife/girlfriend/mistress named Margarita. Some hold that Esquire claimed the margarita’s first print appearance in 1953, but similar cocktails with different names can be found in cocktail tomes many years prior, and Jose Cuervo

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apparently used the appellation in a late 1940s advertising campaign.

At some point along the way, a salted rim became standard, and the modern classic was born.

For better or worse, the margarita’s simple nature makes it a prime platform for experimentation.

Every tasty tweak on the original theme is met by another distressingly oversweetened mess made with subpar spirits served in a fishbowl over gas station ice.

Frozen doesn’t always mean bad, but the classic cocktail is most often diluted beyond recognition in a foaming slurry of blended ice. When ordering or making your own margarita, just make sure it starts with 100 percent agave tequila, fresh lime juice and a quality orange liqueur. Or, simply stick with these fool-proof recipes and recommendations to avoid heartbreak.

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H OW T O SA LT A G L A S S Ever see a bartender rub a margarita glass on a janky sponge, then plunge the glass headfirst into a plate of salt?

Not only is this unsanitary AF, it also affects the taste of the cocktail by getting salt inside the glass. For a better result, pour a tablespoon of coarse sea salt (not table salt!) onto a small plate. Rub a lime wedge around half the outer rim of the glass, then gently roll just that outer rim in the salt.

Salting half the glass lets imbibers decide how much salt they want with each sip.

mezcal

margarita FROM PĂšBLICO

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frozen margarita

FROM M ISSION TACO JOINT

Margs on the town The Frozen Margarita at Mission Taco Joint keeps it light, frosty and fresh without descending to selfserve slushiness. Various locations, missiontacojoint.com The Lily’s Special at Lily’s Mexican Restaurant is nicely balanced between tart and sweet.

Large portions are available both frozen and on the rocks. 4601 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.1894, lilysfreshmex.com The Mezcal Margarita at Público replaces tequila with sister agave spirit mezcal in this smoky variation.

6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.833.5780, publicostl.com Tommy’s Margarita at Planter’s House is made with reposado tequila for extra depth in PH’s take on the famously tart West Coast version. 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

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recipes Tequila Daisy

David Wondrich’s recipe reprinted with permission from liquor.com 1 SERVING ½ oz. lemon juice ½ tsp. superfine sugar 2 oz. reposado tequila ½ oz. Grand Marnier Seltzer water • In a cocktail shaker, stir together the lemon juice and sugar. Add the tequila and Grand Marnier.

Fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and top with a splash of seltzer.

Classic Margarita 1 SERVING 2 oz. blanco tequila ¾ oz. lime juice ¾ oz. triple sec Lime wheel and coarse sea salt, for garnish • In an ice-filled shaker, combine the tequila, lime juice and triple sec. Shake vigorously and strain into a salted, chilled cocktail or ice-filled double Old-Fashioned glass. Garnish with the lime wheel.

Dale’s Ultimate Mango-Rita

Reprinted with permission from Dale DeGroff’s “Craft of the Cocktail” from top: planter's house co-owner ted kilgore, mezcal margarita at público

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1 SERVING 2 mango slices ½ oz. simple syrup ½ oz. triple sec

1½ oz. tequila ¾ oz. lime juice Lime wheel, for garnish • In a cocktail shaker, muddle the mango slices with the simple syrup and triple sec.

Add the tequila and lime juice.

Fill the shaker with ice, shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with the lime wheel.

Spicy Margarita 1 SERVING 2 to 3 jalapeno slices, seeded ¼ oz. agave nectar 2 oz. reposado tequila 1 oz. lime juice ¾ oz. Ancho Reyes chili liqueur Lime wheel, chili pepper and coarse sea salt, for garnish • In a shaker, muddle the jalapenos with the agave nectar. Add the tequila, lime juice and Ancho Reyes. Fill the shaker with ice, shake vigorously and double-strain into a salted, ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with the lime wheel and chili pepper.

Margaritas for 10 10 SERVINGS 20 oz. blanco tequila 8 oz. water 7½ oz. triple sec 6 oz. lime juice • Combine all ingredients in a large, sealable container and stir gently. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Transfer to bottles, pitchers or a punch bowl to serve.

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tommy's

margarita

FROM PL ANTER'S HOUSE

BATCH MADE IN HEAVEN

Making cocktails for a crowd isn’t difficult, but it’s more involved than just scaling up a single-serving recipe.

Here are a couple tips for the perfect mix.

WATER is an integral ingredient in any cocktail and should comprise 20 to 30 percent of the total volume. When making individual drinks, it comes from shaking or stirring with ice. For multiple drinks, it’s easier to add water directly to the batch. Determine the final volume of your batched cocktail, multiply by 20 percent (.20) and add that much water to start. Taste and add more if necessary.

CITRUS JUICE gets progressively more sour the more you use. Before multiplying the amount of juice in the single recipe by the number of drinks you want to make, multiply the base amount by 20 percent (.20). Starting at 8-out-of-10 sour power will help avoid a mouth-puckering experience, and you can always bump up the citrus if needed.

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THE TENACITY OF LONA LUO from cooking in a rural chinese village to owning a james beard-nominated restaurant by matt sorrell // photos by virginia harold

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a photograph of lona luo’s mother in her home village of manhen, china

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vegetarian dishes at lona’s lil eats

Luo is first and foremost a chef;

accolades, obviously, are not why she’s in it. At 40, she’s spent most of her life cooking, beginning when she was just 6, helping her mother in their rural Chinese village of Manhen. When she got older, Luo cooked for village events like weddings and housewarmings.

She didn’t think of cooking as a way to make a living – it was a way of life.

“We care about what we’re eating,” Luo said of the people in her village.

“We don’t care about the way we’re dressed or where we live. We care about food. When you go to someone’s house, they don’t ask, ‘What’s your name?’ or ‘Where do you come from?’

They ask, ‘Have you eaten?’”

When Lona Luo found out she was nominated for Best Chef: Midwest by the James Beard Foundation, she was nonplussed.

“I didn’t know what it was,” she admitted. Instead of jumping on the phone to call family and friends, Luo spent the day as usual, working in the kitchen at her restaurant, Lona’s Lil Eats, in Fox Park.

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Given Manhen’s location in the Yunnan province of southern China (near Laos, Myanmar, Vietnam and Thailand), this food fixation makes sense. The area is a crossroads of cuisines, and the cultural crosspollination finds expression in many small restaurants in Manhen. “Every restaurant in my hometown has amazing food,” Luo said. “Anywhere you go, you won’t be disappointed.”

At 18, Luo finished high school, and since her parents could no longer afford to send her to school, she decided to head to Kunming, the largest city in Yunnan. Kunming is a popular travel destination, especially for Japanese tourists who enjoy the golf courses there. [in Manhen] and marry someone,” Luo said. But that prospect didn’t exactly fire her up. After she left, Luo’s mother didn’t speak to her for three years, fearing she would fall prey to the temptations of the big city.

“My mom wanted me to stay

Instead, Luo found a place in the culinary world of Kunming and spent 10 years there. She worked as a server, then as a front-of-house supervisor at the Miyako restaurant inside the Harbor Plaza Kunming hotel, which became a pivotal place for both her career and personal life. It’s where Luo learned Japanese and Japanese cooking techniques and where she met her husband, Pierce Powers. He was hired to tutor the restaurant staff in English, but soon his conversations with Luo covered more than grammar.

A few years after the birth of their daughter, Jane, the couple moved to Powers’ hometown of St. Louis in 2006. Luo used what she learned at Miyako working at several Japanese restaurants around town – most notably Nobu’s in University City. Despite her cooking prowess, Luo stayed in the front of the house where the money was better. But she began writing prospective menus and dreaming about opening a small place of her own one day.

Luo and Powers took the plunge and started a food stand at Soulard Farmers Market in 2008. Lona’s Lil Eats began with a small menu spotlighting Luo’s now-famous hearty rice paper wraps and quickly gained a following, especially among vegans and vegetarians. In 2014, the couple opened their brick-andmortar location in Fox Park while still operating the stand on Saturdays for the first year. The two were passionate about founding a business where all workers are on equal footing and are fairly compensated. “Everyone gets a living wage, and the full-time employees get insurance,” she said.

Tired of working for others,

The Lona’s menu slowly evolved with the restaurant, expanding and combining Luo’s many culinary influences.

The eggplant, bamboo stew and noodle soup are reminiscent of dishes she made growing up. Her region also has strong curing traditions (since refrigeration is still a rarity in some places), and these make an appearance on Lona’s menu by way of Manhen-style pickles. The dumplings and sesame sauce are inspired by the cuisine of the Hui people, a Muslim minority in southwestern China, while the Lona-Q sauce features Japanese flavors. To keep her dishes as authentic as possible, Lona pays big money for her brother to mail spices from her old village in China.

In the early days, Luo was at the restaurant seven days a week, often wearing her son, Daniel, in a sling as she worked the floor. Once he started walking, Daniel sometimes played host, asking guests, “How is everything?” Now, Luo has a bit more work-life balance. She’s careful to have a couple days at home, working at the restaurant five days a week, and she frequently cooks for her family – everything from village favorites to sushi to pizza.

Despite her success, Luo still spends her days behind the stove cooking and tending her sauces instead of on the computer or the phone. She’s still the only one who prepares Lona’s signature sauces. Meat tenderizers and MSG, items Luo considers cutting corners, have no place in her kitchen. Microwaves? Not a chance. She’s not the type to be still for any length of time, leaving most of the behind-the-scenes business details to Powers. “I’m from a village,” Luo said. “We do physical things.”

Eventually, Luo will probably open another Lona’s location. But the opportunity has to be right, and she has to do it on her own terms.

“I don’t just want to jump in,” Luo said. “If I do it, I’m serious. I don’t really care about a huge amount of money.

I care about the community. I’m really most happy when I’m cooking and creating food.”

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1 lona luo cooks sticky rice treats wrapped in banana leaves in her home

kitchen 2 family photos in luo’s home 3 tofu cooking at lona’s lil eats 4 photos of luo and her daughter 5 luo with a pu-erh tea cake from manhen village, where she grew up in southern china 6 luo unwraps a sticky rice treat 7 clockwise from right, whole grilled pompano, dumplings, spring rolls and tea at lona’s lil eats 8 lona’s fried rice 9 teas at lona’s 10 lona’s interior in fox park 11 luo cooks in her restaurant kitchen 12 one of the sauces only luo makes at lona’s 13 luo pours tea

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stuff to do:

MAY

BY LAURA KERN AND CLAIRE MA

Food Truck Friday May 11 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Gather your friends, grab a picnic blanket and head to Tower Grove Park to kick off the seventh annual Food Truck Friday season. More than 20 trucks join the festivities, including Angie Burger, Frankly Sausages and St. Louis Kolache Factory. Sip local pours from Brick River Cider, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards. Save time and skip the line – buy Speed Passes online and pick them up at the Sauce tent.

Ginworld Gin Festival May 12 – noon to 4 p.m., 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.3411, ginworld.com Lift your spirits at this festival celebrating all things gin. Taste more than 100 gins from around the world, and meet distillers from Portobello Road Gin, Edinburgh Gin, Bluecoat Gin and more. Attend hands-on workshops and seminars with industry professionals, including Jake Burger, director and lead gin instructor at The Ginstitute in London.

Tickets available online.

May 21 – 6 p.m., Sidney Street Cafe, 2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, brownpapertickets.com Enjoy an evening of fine dining with a five-course dinner from some of the best culinary talent in the Midwest. Sidney Street Cafe’s chef-owner Kevin Nashan is hosting the event with help from Gerard Craft (Niche Food Group) and Mike Randolph (Privado, Público, Half & Half), as well as chefs from all over the country.

All proceeds support Team USA in the Bocuse d’Or culinary competition. Tickets available online.

Food Rocks!

Concert

Crawfish Festival May 11 – 6 to 11 p.m.; May 12 – 1 to 11 p.m., Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com Satisfy your crawfish cravings at Broadway Oyster Bar. While you wait for a table, enjoy live music or watch chefs boil more than 1,000 pounds of Louisiana crawfish on the front patio. Then sample the special menu featuring items like crawfish nachos, fried crawfish mac and cheese bites and crawfish and crab sliders topped with spicy coleslaw, avocado and house voodoo sauce.

Bocuse d’Or Dinner at Sidney Street Cafe

St. Louis County Greek Fest

May 19 – 7 to 10 p.m., Food Roof Farm, 1335 Convention Plaza, St. Louis, 314.810.6770, urbanharveststl.org Enjoy Food Roof-inspired cocktails and food from Mission Taco Joint while giving back to local nonprofits Urban Harvest STL and St. Louis MetroMarket. Then, soak up some sun and hit the court for a game of sand volleyball or enjoy live music by local bands Flatwoods and Modern Gold. Tickets available online.

May 25, 26 and 27 – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; May 28 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Assumption Greek Orthodox Church, 1755 Des Peres Road, Town & Country, 314.966.2255, stlouisgreekfest.com Get a taste of the Mediterranean without leaving St. Louis. This four-day festival features authentic Greek food like lamb shank, gyros and shrimp saganaki, as well as baklava, karithopita, and other pastries handmade by parishioners. Enjoy Greek music and dance performances, take a tour of the church or shop the marketplace for traditional Greek groceries, jewelry and more. denotes a sauce sponsored event

Laumeier Sculpture Park Art Fair May 11 – 6 to 10 p.m., May 12 – 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., May 13 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Laumeier Sculpture Park, 12580 Rott Road, St. Louis, 314.615.5278, laumeiersculpturepark.org sponsored events Munch on fare from vendors like Blues Fired Pizza and Mission Taco Joint, and grab a drink from 4 Hands Brewing Co., Schlafly Beer and Noboleis Vineyards. Then check out 150 booths with 50 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com original artwork.

Lupulin Carnival May 19 – noon - 4 p.m., St. Louis Union Station, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, lupulincarnival.com Join 4 Hands Brewing Co. to sample cross-continental beers from breweries like Six Mile Bridge Beer, Boulevard Brewing Co. and Firestone Walker Brewing Co. while noshing on bites from local food trucks and enjoying live music and carnival entertainment. Tickets available online.

The Muny’s Centennial Birthday Bash May 20 – 1 to 5 p.m., The Muny, 1 Theatre Drive, St. Louis, 314.361.1900, muny.org/100 Celebrate 100 years of The Muny with food trucks like Guerrilla Street Food, Frankly Sausages and Clementine’s Creamery. Stick around for backstage tours, live performances, photo ops and more.

IndiHop June 2 – 1 to 6 p.m. The Grove and Cherokee Street, St. Louis, indihopstl.com Use your complimentary tasting glass to sample locally brewed and crafted beers from 25 businesses in each neighborhood.

Ride the shuttle between neighborhoods, and enjoy live music from local bands at each stop. Tickets available online.

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WHAT I DO

Patrick Horine

“We’re an open public m a r k e t, so we get some unusual visitors sometimes. We’ve had improper clothing – just not enough on a man once.

We had to ask him to go put on some clothes. We’ve had things like lightning strike a tree in the market.”

“When the market ends a t 1 2 : 3 0 p . m . , it’s only been operating for four-and-a-half hours, but we’ve been on site maybe seven hours at that point. But you’re destroyed, and that night, you can’t do anything. You just go home and lay down.” “ W e e n c o u r ag e t h e s h o p p e r s t o ta l k t o t h e g r o w e r s . They might have a table full of produce that is 95 percent organic, and they might have some plums on the table that have been sprayed. We can’t point that out to everyone; we don’t know what they’re bringing every week. … The customers I know who’ve engaged the farmers, they have compiled their list of favorites.

They know what they’re getting, and it’s a matter of building those relationships with the farmer.”

“There are things I l o o k f o r e ac h y e a r s e a s o n a l ly. When the raspberries are in season, then it’s Biver Farms or Buila Farm. When Ivan has his figs, then I’m there getting figs.

When Murray’s Orchard brings the pluots, I look for those. …

After apricot season, Ozark Forest Mushrooms makes this incredible apricot conserve, and I’ll go buy several jars of that to get me through the year.”

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Patrick Horine launched the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market in 2006 with 13 vendors. Today, there are over 60 with everything from organic produce to chicken coop rentals. The co-founder of Local Harvest Grocery has launched several successful projects, but he’s had his fair share of failures. Still, that hasn’t deterred him from new endeavors: a Tuesday night rush hour at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and a monthly farmers market at The Boulevard in Richmond Heights. – Catherine Klene

“ T h e m o s t d i f f i c u lt pa r t o f [ fa i l u r e ] i s t h e effect it has on others.

When we had our farmers market – the one we did downtown – that just was immediately obvious it wasn’t going to work. We stuck it out for a season, and the vendors who stuck it out with us – the gratitude I had to them for sticking it out with me, but also how bad I felt for them that they were there – they were doing it to support me.” “ I n ow k n ow h ow i n c r e d i b ly d i f f e r e n t t h e r e s ta u r a n t b u s i n e s s i s . The grocery store we opened [in Kirkwood] – I wouldn’t have put a restaurant in it. But at the same time, I don’t regret putting a restaurant in it. If I had gone along all the while and everything had been an amazing success, I wouldn’t have learned some important things.” “ L o o k i n g b a c k at when we went through the recession in 2008 and the years after that, we were able to tout local as being good for the economy because it is. It keeps money in the region, and I think that spoke to a lot of people that they could help the economy and local folks.” “ W e a r e g o i n g t o ta k e o u r T G F M a c r o n y m and start a separate offshoot called To Grow Farmers’ Markets. We are not going to rush into anything, but we’re going to be available to discuss [market] opportunities with municipalities or neighborhoods or existing markets that maybe want some help.”

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market Tuesdays – 4 to 7 p.m., Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Tower Grove Park, St. Louis, tgfarmersmarket.com The Boulevard Farmers’ Market First Sunday of the month, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, Facebook: The Boulevard Farmers’ Market

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PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

“ W h e n I s ta r t e d , m y i d e a wa s t h i s w o u l d b e a s m a l l S at u r d ay e v e n t.

I actually envisioned myself just taking a book to the park on Saturdays and hanging out and letting the market do its thing. But it was obvious right away it was going to be a more involved effort.”

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