OUR CITY'S
FOOD DESERTS AND THE FIGHT TO ELIMINATE THEM
GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS (FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER) ST. LOUIS’2017 INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY November
R E V I E W
F I R E S I D E
LEFTOVER
NUDO HOUSE
DRINKING
TURKEY TRICK
P. 13
P. 23
P. 27
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NOVEMBER 2017 • VOLUME 17, ISSUE 11 What’s your inner-Martha hosting secret?
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Before I step in the kitchen, I set the table and choose serving dishes because as I get foodfocused, it’s less of a priority.
FACT CHECKER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2017 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
Allyson Mace Cook for your expected Meera Nagarajan guests plus 25 percent. If Heather Hughes any children/dates/in-laws crash your bash, you’ll have Catherine Klene enough to feed them or Matt Sorrell yummy leftovers. Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Stacy Schultz Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Rebecca Koenig, Anne Marie Lodholz, Dan Lodholz, Marianne Moore, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie Pearson, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Lauren Schumacker, Rachel Wilson Allyson Mace Do not put the booze in the Matt Bartosz, kitchen. Set it up in a place Angie Rosenberg where folks can gather/not watch you drop steaks on Isabella Espinoza the floor and get in the way Amy Hyde of your stirring elbows. Amy Hyde Andrea Fandino, Rachel Wilson
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 November 2017
contents NOVEMBER 2017
editors' picks 7 E AT THIS Pork Belly BLT at The Capitalist Pig
by catherine klene 8
HIT LIST 4 places to try this month
by heather hughes and catherine klene
shroomed out ramen from nudo house p. 13
23 ELIXIR Best fireside drinking
by matt sorrell 24 EFFICIENT KITCHEN Risotto
by kellie hynes 27 MAKE THIS Curried turkey Waldorf salad
by dee ryan
10
M E A L S TH AT CHANGED MY LIFE Gian Nicola Colucci
last course
by meera nagarajan
40 STUFF TO DO by matt sorrell
reviews
42 WHAT I D O
13 N E W AN D NOTABLE
Mandy Estrella
Nudo House
by michael renner
features
16 LUNCH RUSH
28
Frida’s Deli
by stephanie zeilenga 19
NIGHTLIFE The Cabin at Judy Creek
by andrew barrett
by catherine klene
THE FIGHT TO ELIMINATE FO O D DESERTS IN ST. LOUIS by rebecca koenig 35
TIME FOR BRINE by anne marie and dan lodholz
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
dine & drink 21 A SE AT AT THE BAR Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore
November 2017
COVER DETAILS our city's food deserts and the fight to eliminate them In St. Louis city and county, there are 31 food deserts – defined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as neighborhoods "without ready access to fresh, healthy and affordable food.” Find out how residents are fighting to bring healthy food where we need it most on p. 28.
FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER TO SEE THE GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS. Let’s face it – if you’re in the kitchen, you’re missing the party. This holiday, rock the kitchen choreography with these make-ahead recipes and pro tips to feel like a guest at your own shindig. See p. 13 for everything you need to make hosting a breeze. Cover photo by Carmen Troesser
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editors' picks
EAT THIS
We reject wimpy bacon strips and sad translucent tomatoes. We only accept the best – in this case, the Pork Belly BLT at Capitalist Pig. Two thick layers of house-smoked pork belly bacon get cozy with sweet tomato jam, fresh PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
green leaf lettuce and a swipe of rich chipotle aioli. Precisely assembled inside a sturdy Companion brioche bun, each bite yields the perfect balance of salt, smoke, sweet and crunch. Never settle.
CAPITALIST PIG, 2727 S. 12TH ST., ST. LOUIS, 314.772.1180, CAPITALISTPIGBBQ.COM
November 2017
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hit list
From flawless steaks and perfectly cooked fish to, yes, a creamy blue cheese wedge, The Capital Grille offers exactly what a steakhouse should. The service is impeccable; the decor is luxe; the lighting is dim. But what really delivers is the food. The classic wedge salad was equal parts fresh and rich, and a dry-aged Kansas City strip came gorgeously pink and tender. The savory seared halibut with sake-braised mushrooms and miso butter fell into flakes at the mere suggestion of a fork. A steakhouse should feel this expensive – and this one is worth every dollar.
THE CAPITAL GRILLE
4 new restaurants to try this month
101 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, 314.725.0930, thecapitalgrille.com
It’s nearly impossible to EXTRA screw up a BRUT Champagne and oyster bar, but Extra Brut makes most look shoddy in comparison. Next door to sister restaurant Louie’s Wine Dive, this Friday- and Saturdayonly hideaway sports no exterior signage. Grab a seat at the swanky, candle-lit bar and order a bottle of the Slovenian Rubela for an interesting, balanced bubbly with savory notes from the diverse list of international sparkling wines. Along with a mixed dozen from the rotating raw oyster menu, do not miss the charbroiled umami-packed oysters Bienville. These shockingly rich shells stuffed and baked with bechamel, shrimp, bacon and cremini mushrooms will carry you through to another bottle.
The coastal trend of sushi burritos has finally hit St. Louis at BLK MKT Eats. Each menu item can be made as a burrito-sized sushi roll wrapped in nori or a bowl with seasoned rice and greens. Firsttimers should try the OG Fire with a choice of spicy salmon or tuna, Persian cucumber, crispy shallots and tempura crunchies, masago, jalapeno and a creamy, slightly spicy sauce. Lox lovers shouldn’t miss the Swedish Fish made with Scandanavian cured salmon and served with a lemony Yuzu Gold sauce. Ravenous? Order Seoul Delicious Nachos with sticky glazed chicken bites atop addictive house wonton chips with a jumble of greens, kimchi slaw, carrots, housemade BLK MKT pickles, crispy shallots and tempura crunch, scallions and a gochujang mayo. With rapid assemblyline service, we’ve found our new grab-and-go lunch spot.
16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, 314.669.9170, extrabrutstl.com
9 S. Vandeventer Ave., St. Louis, 314.304.8420, blkmkteats.com
krilla krunch roll at blk mkt eats
xiao long bao from st. louis soup dumplings
If you’ve tried the xiao long ST. LOUIS SOUP bao at Private DUMPLINGS Kitchen, you probably freaked out as much as we did when owners Lawrence Chen and Emily Yang opened a soup dumpling shop a couple doors down. And St. Louis Soup Dumplings does not disappoint. We like the unctuous, almost-sweet beef dumplings, swimming in a rich broth and hand-folded in perfectly thin and tender wrappings. Pull up a chair and wait for a complimentary bowl of broth before your bamboo steam basket of bliss arrives. If you’re new to xiao long bao, don’t worry. Yang may check that you’re correctly consuming your dumplings: first, scoop a dumpling into your spoon, then break it open and sip the broth before eating the rest.
8110 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.445.4605, Facebook: Soup Dumplings STL
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PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
BLK MKT EATS
November 2017
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“My family [raised] rabbits. In Italy, the city where I grew up – Turin – rabbits are the famous ingredient. [My father] cooks rabbit with potato and tomato; it’s something unique, and today when I try to make it the same way it never comes out like his. I don’t know what he does to it. He doesn’t braise or anything – he puts all the ingredients together in a woodburning oven, and 40 minutes later he takes it out and it’s perfect! Color, flavor, taste, texture, perfect. I say, ‘How you do that?’ and he says, ‘I don’t know.’ I do the same – I don’t miss any ingredients – but the result is different. Then I try to sear the meat, roast the potato before, but some ingredients don’t completely cook or overcook; the color’s not there. I do it in the exact same oven. When he cooks, he doesn’t pay the attention I pay, but it’s perfect. Maybe one day he’ll tell me his secret. But it’s him – it’s just him. Food is really particular; a magic situation can happen from the beginning to the end, and even with the same ingredients different people give different results.”
Le Bernardin, N e w Yo r k , 1 9 9 7
MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE
GIAN NICOLA COLUCCI
Cielo executive chef Gian Nicola Colucci fell in love with food as a kid growing up in Turin, Italy. When he left Turin for the first time at 24 to work at Lidia Bastianich’s Felidia in New York, the city opened his eyes to foods and cultures he’d never experienced. Since then, he has worked at luxury hotels that have taken him all over the world and picked up influences from Capri to Hyderabad before landing at the Four Seasons in St. Louis. Here, he shares four meals from four countries that changed his life. – Meera Nagarajan
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“We went to Le Bernardin – it was a kind of crazy moment of emotion. It was my first time in a threeMichelin star restaurant. What I remember is this parsnip truffle soup combined with escargot that was an explosion of flavor. The soup was creamy. Sometimes I joke with my guys that French people just [add] cream to make everything perfect. It was creamy, but the parsnip flavor was strong; a touch of garlic was there. The combination with the snails was amazing. That, for sure, is a plate you remember. When you do something correct, people come back for that plate. For that plate, I want to go back.”
Japan, 2011 “In Japan, I discovered matcha. Of course you can see this ingredient
in the United States, but when you go there, you taste matcha in different kinds of items. I remember this matcha store where you can buy the tea, but you can taste [it in] their gelato, sweet items, cookies. That was really nice, to taste how one ingredient can be used in different items. There, I can tell you I tasted matcha in the right way. For chefs, it’s important to understand the ingredient, the flavor and how to use it in your style so that it makes sense, so everything is connected completely. Sometimes now in my gelato I use matcha tea; I use it in pastas. You can operate anywhere in the world if you’re able to open your mind, learn and accept different influences.”
Alain Ducasse, Monte Carlo, 2004 “We went out for dinner at Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo at this beautiful hotel, Louis Cannes. It was a kind of dream to go there to eat. Each plate had a huge component of vegetables, but presented in a different way. At that time, vegetables for me were just a side. I realized that vegetables were the main ingredients – all the other components were the sides. Something changed in my mind – I never thought of that. He did a fillet of turbot (a flat fish, really common in Europe with a white, flaky meat, really sweet) with different roots, vegetables, foam, a base sauce and cream. The vegetables became the main component. The fish was there – it was OK, but all the components he put with different textures and combinations and consistency made the plate special, unique. From that moment, I said, ‘I want to change my concept.’ I continue today to increase vegetables in my plates.”
Cielo Restaurant & Bar Four Seasons Hotel, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cielostlouis.com
November 2017
ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
Tu r i n , I t a l y
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
shroomed out ramen at nudo house
NE W A ND N OTA B L E
nudo house BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Like the silent omelet-making scene in “Big Night” or the kick-ass meal of “Babette’s Feast,” watching Juzo Itami’s food-themed comedy, “Tampopo,” makes me obsessively crave what’s being cooked. Fortunately, unlike when the film first came out in 1985, satisfying a lustful ramen desire is much easier now. Since the film’s rerelease last year, a slew of new ramen-focused restaurants have opened, including Qui Tran and MarieAnne Velasco’s Nudo House. “First, contemplate the ramen,” like the old noodle master in “Tampopo” said.
n e w a n d n o t a b l e N U D O H O U S E p . 1 3 / l u n c h r u s h F R I DA' S D E L I p . 1 6 / n i g h t l i f e T H E C A B I N AT J U DY C R E E K p . 1 9 November 2017
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bowl. Appreciate its gestalt. Savor the aromas.” Menma (fermented bamboo shoots) glistened with fat; a sheet of nori darkened as it soaked up the liquid; the marinated, custardy egg glimmered with a deep yellow yolk; scallions and sesame seeds floated on top. from left, Above all, there were owners qui tran sliver dollar-sized slices and marie-anne of tender char siu roast pork over a tangle of velasco thin, bouncy noodles.
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
If broth is the soul of ramen, then noodles are the body. Tran and Velasco spent a lot of time exploring the noodle trade (rarely do slurp shops make their own) before settling on Sun Noodle, named the “secret weapon of America’s best noodle shops” by Eater. Thick, smooth but chewy noodles made up the other pork broth-based ramen, O’Miso Spicy, bolstered by a house-made fermented soybean paste infused with some incendiarism. Those wanting more heat have many choices from the self-serve condiment station.
Tran is best known for Mai Lee, the Vietnamese-Chinese restaurant his mother, Lee Tran, started the same year “Tampopo” was released (full disclosure: Tran and I are casually acquainted through mutual friends). Velasco’s CV includes local stints at The Ritz-Carlton, The Chase Park Plaza and, most recently, 15 years in Chicago teaching at Le Cordon Bleu and staging at a couple Japanese restaurants. She returned to St. Louis to open Nudo with Tran, and together they researched various ramen styles on both coasts, sought out the perfect noodles and developed their own recipes. Looking into Nudo’s open galley kitchen reveals huge steam
AT A GLANCE nudo house
November 2017
pots of water roiling with fat pouches of herbs, softball-sized onions and hundreds of pounds of bones for the different broths: chicken spines, cow femurs, pork ribs – their marrow and collagen emulsifying and melding with the seasonings to form the backbone of the soup. “The broth is the soul of ramen,” as the noodle master explained. The Classic Nudo’s pork (tonkotsu) bone broth takes 24 hours of simmering to yield its rich, opaque creaminess, salty garlic flavor and delicious gelatinous gloss (“jewels of fat twinkling on the surface”) that I slurped down with wanton pleasure one evening – but only after following the noodle master’s instructions to “First observe the whole
Where 11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.274.8046, Facebook: Nudo House STL
Don’t-Miss Dish Shroomed Out mushroom ramen
Mushroom ramen isn’t a dish typically found in traditional ramen shops, but Nudo’s Shroomed Out is a dream. Fat king oyster mushrooms, marinated and sliced as thick as half-dollar coins, provided big, meaty flavor and firm, resilient texture in the delicate soy milkbased broth. It came laced with garlic oil and topped with baby bok choy, menma and half a marinated egg. “First, caress the surface with the chopstick tips. To express affection,” our fictional noodle master advised. This vegetarian ramen deserves such affection. There are also four varieties of pho, in keeping with Tran’s Vietnamese heritage. The Pho Shizzle interested me the most – a steaming bowl of rich and savory beef broth fragrant with warm spices and chock-
Vibe Sleek, fast-casual space that keeps things moving
full of chicken, shrimp, tender slices of medium-rare beef, clear rice noodles and floating scallions. A cup of that beefy broth showed up again with the Banh Mi Pho Dip, Nudo’s riff on a classic French dip (the other available banh mi uses braised pork belly). Nudo’s baguettes, from the local La Bonne Bouchée, strike the perfect balance of thin, crispy crust and soft, airy interior in which to stuff tender shredded beef (marinated overnight with teriyaki) and the usual crunchy banh mi trimmings, including silvers of jalapeno. Rather than the traditional pork pate spread, Nudo makes a chicken liver version for a lighter flavor and less competition with other ingredients. Nudo’s appetizers include standard options like spring rolls, cold sesame noodles and crab Rangoon – all fresh and competently made, if not particularly revelatory. However, Nudo’s exquisite blends of soft-serve ice cream definitely is. Rotating Asian flavors include coconut ube (purple yam), matcha, mango and passion fruit. For Halloween, Velasco made black ice cream from toasted ground black sesame seeds. The dessert is a masterful stroke of business acumen: How many times have you eaten something spicy and craved a cooling cone? I can see Nudo’s fast-casual, order-at-the counter template replicated throughout St. Louis, especially in shopping areas devoid of local dining options. Tran’s sister, Sara Tran, designed the space, transforming a former Einstein Bros. Bagels shop into a smart open concept, complete with exposed kitchen, sleek dining areas, tables made locally by Narrative Furniture and even a social media wall with the Nudo logo meant for selfie snapping. The restaurant may not uncover anything new about the nature of ramen, but Nudo has found its own voice in a market now rife with competition.
Entree Prices $10 to $12
When Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
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reviews LUNCH RUSH
LUNCH RUSH
frida’s deli BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
A wide gulf separates being fed and being nourished. Any old meal will get you fed. At Frida’s Deli, you will be nourished, beginning when you sit down to a tall glass of fresh, fruit-infused water. This restaurant is committed to its vegetarian, no-sugar, no-butter, low-salt philosophy with a focus on food as equal parts pleasure and fuel. But even diehard carnivores will find something to enjoy at this sleek yet friendly University City favorite.
yeast, it’s a complex and tasty complement to the main dish.
MUSHROOM AVOCADO WRAP A warm multigrain wrap enfolds an enticing medley of textures and mild flavors. For earthiness, cremini mushrooms and organic clover sprouts; for freshness, tomato, red pepper and spinach; for richness, avocado, mayo and pungent white cheddar. While lacking bold flavors, this wrap tastes restorative, like gulps of cold water the morning after a long night out. The kale side salad is a good pairing here – dressed with liquid aminos and nutritional
RAW FETTUCCINE This is sunshine as a bowl. A gleaming, verdant mound of raw zucchini noodles is coated with a tart, herbaceous lemon-basil dressing. Sundried tomatoes add a welcome sweet-savory note, while basil provides a peppery pop – a surprisingly complex dish considering it’s uncooked. This won’t cure your pasta cravings – after all, it is still raw veggies – but it’s a fresh AF salad. BLACK BEAN AND JALAPENO MASA CAKES These are among the more adventurous offerings – satisfyingly chewy with a mild hit of heat. Listed as an appetizer, the cakes are hefty enough for a light lunch. Topped with sauteed mushrooms, red peppers and avocado, the dish is pulled
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together by a drizzle of smoked chipotle crema. The unexpected addition adds a nice flair and serves as a cooling counterpoint to the jalapeno’s spice.
MUSHROOM REUBEN No slices of rosy pastrami here. But mushrooms are a worthy swap, adding a satisfying umami note. The mushrooms are layered with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing, tomato and avocado. The last two ingredients are hardly conventional, but I
suspect necessary to add some depth to the sandwich sans pastrami – just one of many ways Frida’s creatively modifies dishes traditionally made with meat. As God intended, the whole mess is sandwiched between two slices of earthy rye bread. Pro tip: get the Buffalo potatoes as a side.
queen of the balance beam. The pizza starts with an herbed crust, generously layered with sunflower seed-based taco “meat,” mushrooms and all the standard taco toppings: red pepper, onion, black olives, lettuce, tomato and avocado. There’s just enough cheese to hold everything together, but not so much that you get that dreaded post-pizza bloat.
THE DOWNSIDE The spring rolls, although plenty fresh, were surprisingly bland. The accompanying truffle-miso sauce is to blame – the rolls would have been much better with a punchier, more savory sauce. LOADED TACO PIZZA Pizza and healthy don’t usually go together, so if you’re wanting both, compromise is required. All hail Frida’s,
Frida’s Deli 622 North and South Road, University City, 314.727.6500, fridasdeli.com
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reviews
the cabin at judy creek
NIGHTLIFE
BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
trying to go, but they didn’t quite get there in execution or concept – like the Real Men Don’t Drink Whiskey Sours … Until Now! Aside from the horrible, gendered name, the drink could not have been twice-shaken The cabin and double-strained, as at judy creek described on the menu. I 3730 S. State Rt. 157, gave up on that one after Glen Carbon, sipping slimy albumen Illinois, 618.205.8556, through my straw.
ORDER IT
the cabin at judy creek
thecabinat judycreek.com
Local and comfort beers, as well as a short wine list, round out the menu if you’re not in the spirit for spirits. Shout out to Deschutes Brewery from my birth state of Oregon, whose Mirror Pond Pale Ale helped me through some long college nights. The food isn’t just frozen bar fare, and nowhere is this more evident than in Napa’s Nachos. Tortilla chips are piled with queso, barbecue sauce, caramelized onions, jalapenos and a mound of house-smoked chicken or pork. Think ballpark nachos meets succulent barbecued meats. They’re the perfect complement to any meal, drink or hangover.
I
f someone says they’re taking you to The Cabin in the middle of the night, you might fear you’re headed for some B horror movie murder shack. But if they mean The Cabin at Judy Creek, you’re in for a good, not-scary-at-all time. The Glen Carbon, Illinois bar has the quaintness of a hole-in-the-wall with all the trappings of more upscale whiskey joints. With wood everywhere – the walls, bar, tables and floor – and plenty of kitsch – old photos, newspaper clippings, a metal skeleton riding a bike – The Cabin lives up to its name with a warm, cozy feel. It’s eclectic enough to please a city slicker like me and down-home enough to keep good old boys at ease. Out back, there’s a patchwork patio of picnic tables and fire November 2017
pits lit on cooler nights for all the joys of a backyard bonfire, but with a much better drink selection served in interesting glassware. Some beers come in a snifter, others in a pint glass sporting a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle. My whiskey sour came in the bottom half of an upcycled 750-milliliter beer bottle. On weekends, live music is played inside, and drunk people yell requests like “Wonderwall.” It’s a home away from home. The cocktails are strong. Billed as being made with “all five white liquors,” the Just Made Right L.I.T. was the standout. I’ve had more than one lifetime’s worth of Long Island iced teas, and this one hits that dangerously drinkable sweet spot. I could tell where other cocktails were
I’ve renamed the My Nolen, “My Favorite Panini.” Brie is pressed with bacon, peanut butter and roasted apples, served drizzled with fancy D&W local honey. Gooey and crunchy, it brought back memories of brown bag-school lunches. It was so rich I almost wanted a milk to go with it, but Stag was just as good.
The My Nolen sandwich combines brie, bacon, peanut butter and apples for a childhood favorite that’s all grown up.
The hoagie pizzas are also worth investigating. The name doesn’t quite convey how fun and satisfying they are – like a dolled-up Red Baron French bread pizza. The Trashed is chef ’s choice and adds the entertainment of figuring out what all is baked on top. Mine had red sauce, Parmesan, cherry tomatoes, grilled onions, mushrooms, sausage and balsamic, if my eyes and tongue did not betray. The Cabin at Judy Creek is good enough to be a new regular haunt; I had as great a time as the skeleton up on that bike. If you’re lucky enough to be in the neighborhood, this should be your corner bar.
Kick back fireside on the patchwork patio at The Cabin at Judy Creek.
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dine
& drink
rich, complex and caffeinated, we're into the sante fe imperial java stout right now
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Produced in France since 1889, Suze has only been available stateside since 2013. Flavored primarily by the bitter gentian root, herbal ingredients complement the aperitif, providing a taste that is not just bitter, but also sweet, earthy, TED AND JAMIE citrusy and fruity. Although KILGORE its funky, vegetal flavor makes USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart it popular for cocktails, you and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House should also enjoy Suze on the rocks with a lemon twist to get the full flavors of this classic French tradition. $30. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
November 2017
Iconoclastic winemaker David Phinney’s Locations label attempts to concentrate the character and style of different regions into a single, non-vintage, nonGLENN BARDGETT varietal wine. Locations Member of the Missouri Wine TX is a friendly red and Grape Board and wine blend made in Texas. director at Annie Gunn’s Soft, fruity and earthy, it’s ideal for the many flavors of Thanksgiving – an American wine for the most American of feasts. $20. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com
Add a little caffeine to your cerveza this fall. Santa Fe Brewing Co. Imperial Java Stout is bold, rich and complex with intense roasty and chocolate notes driven by its malt bill and the organic coffee beans it’s brewed with. KATIE HERRERA Medium-bodied at 8-percent Co-founder of Femme ABV with just a touch of chew Ferment and account manager at Craft Republic and dryness, this bombshell finishes with a punch of coffee. Breakfast? Dinner? Nobody’s judging. Six-pack: $10.25. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton. craftbeercellar.com
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BARS
BEST FIRESIDE DRINKING B Y M AT T S O R R E L L
Nothing evokes autumn like indulging in your beverage of choice beside a roaring fire. Be it indoors by a cozy hearth or outside underneath the stars, celebrate that seasonal nip in the air with a quality libation and an open flame (not too close, mind you).
21st Street Brewers Bar
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
Rough-hewn wooden picnic tables and benches surround a stone pit piled high with cordwood that looks so real, I swore the fire pit was wood-burning, not gas. It makes for the perfect down-home bonfire drinking atmosphere, right in the middle of the city. Keep the chill at bay with a pint of beer from the extensive list of local brews and a hot pie from upstairs sister restaurant PW Pizza. 2017 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.6969, 21stbrew.com
Atomic Cowboy Atomic’s ginormous back patio, complete with satellite bar, is a go-to for good times and live music.
Once the temperatures drop, the space also plays host to one of the area’s premier fire pits — picture a human-sized birdcage full of flaming logs, and you’ll get the idea. Gather the tribe, order a couple pints and bask in the embers’ glow. 4140 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.775.0775, atomiccowboystl.com
Fox & Hounds Tavern Nip a smoky single-malt scotch by the glow of the rustic stone fireplace and speculate on how the other half lives. Under the gaze of a bevy of stuffed woodland critters, it’s the closest you’ll get to a legit European hunting lodge in the metro area. Relax and unwind like the lord of the manor. (Smoking jacket optional.) The Cheshire, 6300 Clayton Road, Richmond Heights, 314.647.7300, cheshirestl.com
fox & hounds tavern
The Royale Food & Sprits A quintessential neighborhood joint, The Royale features a convivial vibe inside and out. This fall, join the cross section of neighbors, neo-hipsters, amateur pundits and barflies of all types who gather ’round
the red brick fire pit out back to talk politics, sports and the news of the day. Or just sip on a classic cocktail and quietly contemplate the flames. 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com
Das Bevo Kick it like the beer barons of old. Sink into one of the overstuffed armchairs in front of Das Bevo’s historic stone fireplace and toast the season with a stein of fine lager and a plate or two
of kraut balls. If the great outdoors is more your speed, do your drinking around one of the custom spherical metal fire pits on the spacious patio. 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.832.2251, dasbevo.com
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EFFICIENT KITCHEN
risotto BY KELLIE HYNES // PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
When I’m sad, I retreat to my pantry. I’ve logged enough hours there to earn a doctorate in emotional eating (concentration: emotional baking, cupcakes). But anger … anger I express at the stovetop. I beat the starch off Arborio rice grains with a wooden spoon in the world’s most productive shoulder workout. After 20 minutes, my frustration is comforted by creamy risotto.
Risotto has a bad reputation for being difficult to prepare. Sometimes it’s soggy-mushy. Sometimes the rice grains are tooth-chipping hard. The secret to Goldilocks risotto (not too soft, not too firm) is hot broth, which will soak into the rice and make it toothsome and tender. Bring chicken or vegetable broth to a boil, then reduce the heat and let it simmer while you toast Arborio rice grains in a splash of oil. Add
the broth to the rice one ladleful at a time, stirring constantly until absorbed. Initially, the rice will soak up the broth like tears in a tissue, and you will wonder what all the fuss is about. The last few cups, however, take infinitely longer to incorporate and you will consider dumping in the remaining liquid all at once. Do not do it. This is the moment, friends. The moment to double down on all your stirring, churning
R I S OT TO STUFFED MUSHROOMS
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vigorously until the ingredients (and your emotions) are in harmony. In addition to its therapeutic qualities, risotto is an easy, elegant meal, endlessly adaptable to your personal tastes. Love veggies? Fold sauteed mushrooms, asparagus and shallots into the cooked rice. Need some protein? Add a handful of edamame or rotisserie chicken. And be sure to make more risotto than you need because next-day risotto and its derivatives deliciously stretch one night of cooking into multiple meals. A note about pepper: Ideally, you should season your risotto with white pepper because ground black pepper looks weird in the snow-white rice. But I loathe white pepper. I think it overwhelms with a gaminess usually reserved for high school gym lockers and the zoo’s primate house. If you happen to be president of the White Pepper Fan Club, go ahead and sprinkle it with wild abandon. Otherwise, I suggest the black version for spicy, yet nuanced, flavor. And if someone gives you side-eye over the specks, well, stir away your irritation at the stovetop.
BASIC RISOTTO 6 CUPS 6½ cups low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 cups Arborio rice ½ cup dry white wine ½ cup packed shredded Parmesan 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 ∕8 to ¼ tsp. freshly ground black or white pepper 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley • Bring the broth to a boil in a large saucepot over medium-high heat. Cover, and reduce the heat to low. • Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavybottomed saucepan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, 3 minutes. Add the wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits. Cook until the wine is absorbed, about 1 minute. • Reduce the heat to medium. Add the broth to the rice mixture 1 ladleful at a time, stirring constantly until the
broth is absorbed before adding more. Cook until all the stock has been absorbed and the rice is tender but firm to the bite, about 25 minutes. • Stir in the Parmesan, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Garnish with the parsley. Serve hot.
Weeknight Chicken Pesto Ris ot to In a microwave-safe dish, combine 3 cups cold risotto, 1 cup shredded rotisserie chicken, 1 cup chopped raw sugar snap peas and ¼ cup pesto. Cover and microwave on high 4 minutes. Finish with 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Arancini Combine 2 cups cold risotto, 2 large beaten eggs and ½ cup Italian breadcrumbs. Take 12 roomtemperature ciliegine (cherry-sized) mozzarella balls and shape 2 generous tablespoons of the mixture around each. Roll each in a bowl containing 1 cup panko breadcrumbs. Working in batches if necessary, fry the arancini in 3 inches canola oil heated to 350 degrees until deeply golden, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.
Avgolemono Divide 1 cup reheated risotto among 4 bowls. Bring 6 cups chicken broth to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 large eggs and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Slowly whisk 1 ladleful hot (not boiling) broth into the egg mixture, then gently whisk the eggbroth mixture back into the pot of warm broth. Cook over low heat until the soup becomes opaque, about 1 minute. Season with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice to taste. Pour the broth into the bowls of risotto and serve hot. Ris ot to-Stuffed Mushr ooms Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove the stems from 10 large cremini mushrooms. Finely chop the stems and saute in 1 teaspoon butter over medium-high heat until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic, ¼ teaspoon herbs de Provence and kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Cook 1 minute, then stir into ¼ cup room-temperature risotto. Toss the mushroom caps in 2 teaspoons olive oil. Spoon the risotto mixture into the mushroom caps, and top with 2 tablespoons shredded Parmesan. Bake the stuffed mushrooms 15 minutes. Serve hot.
BASIC RISOTTO
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November 2017
MAKE THIS CURRIED TURKEY WALDORF SALAD
Come November, all we can think about is The Bird. MAKE THIS However, when we’ve had just about enough, often the bird still isn’t done with us. Curry some favor with this Indian-inspired Waldorf salad. In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups diced or chopped cooked turkey, 1 cup diced Granny Smith apple, ¼ cup chopped cashews and ¼ cup chopped celery. In a separate bowl, mix together 1 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons chopped green onion, 1 tablespoon mild curry powder and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss until coated. Serve on a bed of lettuce or with crackers or toast points. – Dee Ryan
ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
For a slightly sweeter version of the dish, add 1 tablespoon Major Grey’s Chutney to the dressing.
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the fight to eliminate
FOOD DESERTS in st. louis
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BY
PHOTOS BY
REBECCA
ASHLEY GIESEKING &
KOENIG
IZAIAH JOHNSON
November 2017
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Antwan Pope has a vision. When the social services specialist surveys his Wells Goodfellow neighborhood, he sees fertile ground for a food revolution.
why are food deserts a problem?
9 St. Louis city and 22 St.
There are
Louis County census tracts that qualify as
The Wellston Station, a century-old, open-air pavilion where streetcars once stopped at the city limits, has what Pope calls a ready-made “farmers market atmosphere,” complete with a Chuck Berry mural. Nearby vacant lots seem perfectly suited for community gardens where residents could grow their own produce. And of course, Pope sees plenty of room for a grocery store – a full-service one where his 88-year-old grandmother could shop for fruits and vegetables instead of traveling two miles to Schnucks City Plaza. “She shouldn’t have to do that,” he said. Pope’s plan for reviving the intersection of Hodiamont Avenue and Dr. Martin Luther King Drive is evidence of the activism at work throughout St. Louis, intended to create more equitable access to affordable, healthy food. The area is plagued by food deserts – neighborhoods without a Dierbergs, Shop ’n Save or Aldi in sight. Most of their inhabitants are people of color. In the city, nine census tracts have significant numbers of low-income residents who live at least a mile from a grocery store, according to 2015 data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture Economic Research Service. There are 22 such tracts in St. Louis County. Change that distance to a half-mile, and dozens more communities qualify as deserts. That distance might not sound like such a big deal, but it matters especially to people who don’t have cars. In Wells Goodfellow, about one-fifth of households lack personal vehicles, which means residents are dependent on public transportation – or their own two feet – to get to supermarkets elsewhere. Walking a mile is easy if you’re in good health, but think about how hard it can be to unload groceries when you’re just carrying bags from the car to your kitchen counter. Now imagine making the trip on foot as an 88-year-old, or while carrying your child, or dependent on a wheelchair. Even those cute, foldable personal shopping carts wouldn’t be much help, considering that to trek the 1.7 miles from Wellston Station to the nearest grocery store – a Save-A-Lot – you have to hike through overgrown lots or trod carefully on the road’s edge because the sidewalk disappears.
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food deserts, with residents – primarily low-income people of color – living at least
1 mile from a grocery store. In some of these neighborhoods,
20
percent of households don’t have a car and there are
0 sidewalks.
Try walking a mile on the side of a busy road lugging
50
pounds of groceries in fragile plastic bags. Now imagine you’re elderly, disabled or caring fulltime for your children.
Incapable of making such a trip as often as they need to and tired of subsisting on meager gas station selections, desert dwellers are increasingly looking inward to improve their food access. They’re teaming up with advocates in academia and development to devise innovative economic solutions. They’re figuring out new ways to tap the resources their neighborhoods already have, most notably the corner stores that serve as lifelines on blocks with no other options. Why, they ask, should they have to go elsewhere to find milk and broccoli and whole-grain bread? Why can’t healthy food come to them? “With neighborhoods in St. Louis, there’s a real opportunity to change food culture,” said Bob Ray, part owner of the Washington Avenue Post market.
S WA P P I N G O U T S U G A R
If Walnut Park East is home, chances are you have trouble getting groceries. Like a quarter of your neighbors, you may not have a car, which means you take the bus to the nearest Save-A-Lot, which is miles away. Much closer is the Regal Meat Market. For years, your family may have stopped by for chicken wings, gyros or hamburgers. The Hamed family, owners since 1998, takes pride in having you as a loyal customer. They may even give you a free Thanksgiving turkey. If Regal stocked the same kinds of groceries as SaveA-Lot, it could significantly change the contents of your fridge. So believes Kara Lubischer, specialist in healthy food access at the University of Missouri Extension. St. Louis is sprinkled with more than 250 corner, convenience and liquor stores, local institutions that serve as food sources for places like Walnut Park East. A few years ago, Lubischer recognized the potential these shops have to stand in for absent supermarkets. “Instead of going after the shiny and new, I saw this as an opportunity to go after what we already have,” she said. In 2011, Lubischer led a team to develop the St. Louis Healthy Corner Store Project. Designed to increase both the demand for and the supply of nutritious food in small neighborhood markets, it relied on the expertise of store owners, community organizers, city officials and customers.
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antwan pope
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The primary goal was modest: increase the amount of healthy food on corner store shelves by 5 percent. That meant reduced-fat milk instead of whole milk, water instead of soda and whole-grain products instead of processed sugar snacks.
but cabbage is hit or miss; some weeks it sells, other weeks it gets old and has to be tossed.
Lubischer knew imposing programs on communities from the outside rarely works well. So she and her team went to churches, neighborhood associations and schools, asking locals to nominate stores they’d like to participate. The community council of Walbridge Elementary nominated Regal Meat Market.
“You can’t just stick healthy food in the neighborhood and have people start buying it without having any idea it’s there or having any idea what to do with it,” said Mary Wissmann, a nutritionist who works with the university extension program.
Although such nominations were flattering, alone they weren’t always enough to incentivize store owners. After all, “businesses are in business to make money,” Ray said. So project leaders provided marketing support like signs, produce bins and customer loyalty cards. They talked up the fact that corner stores can make profit margins on dairy, bread, meat and produce ranging from 25 to 50 percent. And they explained that some participating stores were eligible for grants to improve their facades with new awnings and repaired windows. Ultimately, nine store owners signed on. “It was sort of a brave thing for them to do,” Lubischer said. “They were running their businesses just fine before the university and the health department showed up.” Ray came on board to talk shop with other store owners, sharing his institutional knowledge about which grocery distributors offer fair prices to independent markets and how to make a profit off healthy goods. Owners were often wary of stocking perishable food that might spoil before it sold. Ray told his mentees that bananas are a safe bet. “People are bananas about bananas,” he said. “Our store goes through two cases, with 13 bunches per case, every week. We sell a single banana for 59 cents.” That lesson resonated with Majd Hamed at Regal Meat Market. Previously, bananas hadn’t sold well there, so Ray suggested moving them closer to the registers so they’d become impulse purchases. “We stuck to it, and I can’t keep up with bananas no more,” Hamed said. “We put them on the counter in the front, and oh my God, the bananas don’t even get to turn yellow.” Experimentation has since taught Hamed that red grapes are big sellers, while “white grapes sit and rot and I’ll lose my money.” Lemons go quickly,
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Project leaders knew it was essential to educate customers in order to increase demand for the items store owners were stocking.
Stores hosted healthy product taste tests and cooking demonstrations using recipes that called only for ingredients available on the shelves. There were nutrition classes in senior centers, churches and community centers near the participating corner stores. Tailored to address community concerns like diabetes and early childhood nutrition, the courses taught important skills including reading labels, shopping on a budget and preparing meals. Healthy Corner Store Project representatives attended the classes to inform people their local markets had started stocking relevant items. To make the program more sustainable, project leaders wanted to encourage customers to give owners direct feedback about products they’d like to buy. They set up poster boards in each store labeled with the question, “What healthy foods would you like to see here?” Regal Meat Market had been trying unsuccessfully to sell whole watermelons. When its poster board went up, someone wrote, “cut watermelon.” Other customers circled the recommendation, then starred it. So the Hameds cut up the melons, put the pieces into plastic cups and attached forks. The handy snacks started selling immediately – a sweet, yet wholesome, alternative to candy.
BRINGING BACK THE BOUNTY
By 2015, after four years in operation, results from the St. Louis Healthy Corner Store Project were promising. Some stores ended up with 25 percent more healthy inventory, far surpassing the 5 percent goal. Of course, some parts of St. Louis lack even corner stores. When Pope decided in 2014 to rehabilitate the Wellston Station corner through youth meal and activity programs, “there was no produce, no fresh fruit, no kind of vegetation in the area, period,” he said. Student volunteers from Washington University and the University of Missouri – St. Louis who came to help with clean-up days all noticed there were no stores – other than a laundromat, a pawn shop and a Family Dollar.
Leaders at Operation Food Search, a food distribution nonprofit, confirmed to Pope that the area is indeed a food desert. That wasn’t always the case. The neighborhood once had a thriving business district. Observers in 1941 noted an abundance of “open stalls for vegetables and flowers, crates of chickens and geese, and the tantalizing odors of herring and dill.” One of Pope’s elderly neighbors enjoys recalling the days when jobs – and produce stands – were plentiful near Wells Goodfellow. Pope is determined to coax that kind of bounty back into his community. There are signs of progress, like the several community gardens planted among the neighborhood’s houses. Ray believes these gardens, and more substantial established urban farms, have the potential to change his neighborhood’s relationship with food. That is, if they’re invested in. “Instead of a food desert, we could be raising food in these communities because of all this vacant land,” he said. “We could be creating jobs and opportunity.” Other St. Louisans have taken up the charge. In The Grove, City Greens Market offers produce, meat and other products from Missouri and Illinois to members who pay on a sliding income scale. The nonprofit coop evolved out of a CSA program in the basement of St. Cronan Church, created by women tired of making multiple bus transfers to get to supermarkets. This fall, the Wellston and North Hanley MetroLink transit centers will boast brand-new markets selling produce, pantry staples and refrigerated items. The University of Missouri Extension will provide nutrition education on-site at least once a month at each location. And in January, Good Life Growing, a Vandeventer farm that uses hydroponic, aquaponic and aeroponic systems, plans to open Old North Provisions, a mixeduse restaurant and grocery store. Pope is excited that Metro Market, a bus-turnedmobile-produce-stand that has occasionally come to Wells Goodfellow, is hoping to add the area to its regular rotation next year. The market specializes in low-cost, local produce and is participating in the Double Up Food Bucks program, which allows customers spending food assistance benefits to double their money on fruits and veggies. “When they pulled that bus on that corner, oh my God,” Pope said. “They literally sold all the stuff they had on this bus out.”
L O C A L L E S S O N S , N AT I O N A L L E G A C Y
Financial support for the St. Louis Healthy Corner Store Project, which came from the Missouri Foundation for Health, the Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services and a Community Development Block Grant
November 2017
Such markets need advocates in local and state government, Ray believes, especially when so much support already goes to major enterprises like the Schnucks Culinara. “It would be better to support small businesses, help them become nice little markets, than it would to support multimillion-dollar companies that don’t need the help,” he said. “We should be setting up co-ops to give some of these smaller businesses buying power to buy bulk purchases in order to be competitive. It’s almost impossible to compete. It just is.” Years after the St. Louis Healthy Corner Store Project’s official end, Regal Meat Market still moves a lot of potatoes, lettuce, apples, oranges, tomatoes and green peppers. Hamed spoke favorably of the project’s goals, but lamented the difficulty the store has had marketing healthy goods to younger customers, who he said still seem to prefer “junk food.” “If it wasn’t for the old people who come here and cook, a lot of my stuff would go to waste,” he said. Still, one of the strong sellers at Regal Meat Market is a holdover from the Healthy Corner Store Project. A few years ago, on the advice of project leaders, the Hameds used a donated chalkboard sidewalk sign to advertise a new prepared food product: fresh chicken salad. “That worked,” Hamed said, “bringing us different clientele: healthy food eaters.”
Businesses and organizations working to eradicate St. Louis food deserts
from left, majd and saddam hamed at regal meat market
administered by St. Louis Development Corporation, ran out in 2015. The project ended. Its leaders used the lessons they’d learned to create a similar, Missouri-wide program called Stock Healthy, Shop Healthy. Lubischer oversees the program, which operates in 14 counties and counting, from Kansas City. Seven other states have emulated the new program. St. Louis, Lubischer said, deserves full credit for its success. “We learned great things from our store owners. They taught us so much,” she added.
November 2017
It’s possible that the corner store program will return to St. Louis, if the right local partner champions it. Whether the model can sustain itself and how much it could transform food deserts, though, depends on who you ask. Some corner stores have trouble processing food assistance benefits, for instance, which reduces their usefulness to many customers. Corner stores will never become Whole Foods, Lubischer cautions. Rather, she hopes businesses like Regal Meat Market will stock enough tomatoes and whole-grain bread to sustain families without ready access to a car until their next major supermarket trip.
City Greens Market 4260 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.884.8460, stlcitygreens.org Good Life Growing 4057 Evans Ave., St. Louis, goodlifegrowing.com Old North Provisions 2720 N. 14th St., St. Louis (opening 2018) Operation Food Search operationfoodsearch. org Regal Meat Market 5791 Thekla Ave., St. Louis, 314.382.8509 St. Louis Metro Market stlmetromarket.com Stock Healthy, Shop Healthy extension. missouri.edu/stockhealthy Washington Avenue Post 1315 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.588.0545, Facebook: Washington Ave Post
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T I M E
F O R
B R I N E
B Y A N N E M A R I E A N D D A N L O D H O L Z \\ P H O T O S B Y C A R M E N T R O E S S E R November 2017
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Brining is the secret technique behind many of your favorite restaurant meat dishes. A simple way to both season and prevent meat from drying out, the standard brine equation is a cup of kosher salt and a half-cup of sugar in a gallon of water. You can introduce a wide range of adjuncts to that base – try herbs or hot peppers or change the sugar to molasses. Whatever flavor profile you choose, the magic of osmosis will render your dish salted and succulent.
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PASTRAMI 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 6 cups water 1 cup kosher salt 1 cup dark brown sugar 4 oz. (about ½ cup) pickling spice 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. pink curing salt (optional)* 24 oz. amber ale 1 6- to 8-lb. brisket (the point, if available) 3 Tbsp. black peppercorns 2 Tbsp. juniper berries 2 Tbsp. mustard seeds 1 Tbsp. white peppercorns
1 Tbsp. garlic powder 2 tsp. onion powder • In a large stockpot, bring the water, kosher salt, brown sugar and pickling spice to a boil over high heat until the sugar and salt dissolve. Remove from the heat and let cool. Add the pink curing salt, if desired, and stir to dissolve, then add the beer. • Submerge the meat in the brine. Refrigerate 3 days. • Rotate the brisket and stir the brine. Submerge and refrigerate another 2 to 4 days. • Remove the brisket from the brine and pat dry. Discard the brine.
• Preheat a smoker to 225 degrees. • Place the peppercorns, juniper berries and mustard seeds in a spice grinder and pulse until finely ground, then place in a small bowl. Add the garlic and onion powders to the bowl and mix to combine. Rub the spice mixture all over the brisket. • Smoke the brisket 8 to 12 hours, until a thermometer inserted into the center of the brisket reaches 180 degrees. • Let rest 20 minutes before slicing. * Pink curing salt is available at Wenneman Meat Co., 7415 State Route 15, St. Libory, Illinois, 618.768.4328, wenneman.com
November 2017
GRILLED SHRIMP 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 quarts apple cider ½ cup kosher salt ¼ cup sugar 2 lbs. tail-on peeled shrimp Cocktail sauce, for serving (optional) • In a large stockpot, whisk together the cider, salt and sugar until the salt and sugar dissolve. Submerge the shrimp in the brine and refrigerate 2 to 6 hours. • Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium, direct heat. • Remove the shrimp and discard the brine. Grill the shrimp over direct heat until pink, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Serve immediately with cocktail sauce, if desired.
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TURKEY ROULADE 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 4- to 5-lb. boneless, skinless turkey breast 2 quarts water 1 cup kosher salt ½ cup sugar 4 sprigs thyme 4 sprigs rosemary 2 quarts ice 24 to 30 garlic cloves ¼ cup thyme leaves ¼ cup rosemary leaves ½ cup plus 2 to 3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided ½ cup white wine Special equipment: kitchen twine or porchetta netting
CHICKEN WINGS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 quarts water ½ cup kosher salt ¼ cup sugar 1 12-oz. bottle Louisiana-style hot sauce 3 lbs. chicken wings Ranch or blue cheese dressing, for serving (optional) • In a large stockpot, whisk together the water, salt and sugar until the salt and sugar dissolve. Whisk in the hot sauce, then submerge the wings in the
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brine and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours. • Prepare a charcoal grill for high, indirect heat. Soak a handful of apple wood chips in water. • Remove the wings from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the brine. • Add the wood chips to the hot coals, then grill the chicken wings over indirect heat 15 to 20 minutes. Flip and grill another 15 to 20 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the wing reads 165 degrees. • Serve with ranch or blue cheese dressing for dipping, if desired.
• Butterfly the turkey breast, carefully slicing vertically from the thick end to the thin end without cutting all the way through. Open the breast like a book. Use the spiked side of a meat tenderizer to pound the breast to an even ¾-inch thickness. Set aside. • In a large stockpot, bring the water, salt, sugar, rosemary sprigs and thyme sprigs to a boil over high heat until the salt and sugar is dissolved. • Remove from heat, pour into another large stockpot and add the ice. Let cool. • Submerge the turkey breast in the brine and refrigerate 6 to 8 hours. • In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the S-blade, pulse the garlic a few times, then add the rosemary and thyme leaves and pulse a few more times. Add the olive oil and pulse again until a herb-garlic paste is formed. • Remove the turkey breast and place it on a sheet pan. Discard the brine. Pat the turkey breast dry with paper towels. • Smear the garlic-herb mixture in an even layer atop the turkey breast, then tightly roll the breast into a log. Use kitchen twine to tie the log closed in 4 or 5 places, or slide the breast into 8 inches porchetta netting and tie the end.
• Cover the log with plastic and refrigerate overnight. • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. • In a large Dutch oven over high heat, warm the remaining 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add the turkey roulade and brown on all sides. • Add the wine, cover and bake until a thermometer inserted into the center of the roulade reaches 160 degrees, about 1 hour. • Let rest 10 to 15 minutes, then cut into ½-inch slices and serve.
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 quart water ¼ cup kosher salt 2 Tbsp. sugar 3 to 4 medium green beefsteak tomatoes, cut into ½-inch slices ½ cup cornmeal ½ cup flour 1 Tbsp. creole seasoning ¼ cup canola oil Ranch or spicy aioli, for serving (optional) • In a large pot, whisk together the water, salt and sugar until dissolved. Submerge the tomatoes and refrigerate 20 minutes. • Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour and creole seasoning. • Working 1 slice at a time, remove a tomato from the brine and shake off the excess liquid. Gently dredge the tomato slice in the breading, coating both sides. Set aside and repeat with the remaining tomato slices. Discard the brine. • Preheat the oil in a cast-iron skillet over high heat to 325 degrees. Reduce the heat to medium-high to maintain the temperature. • Working in batches, fry a few tomatoes slices at a time until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side. • Let drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Serve with ranch or aioli for dipping, if desired.
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stuff to do:
NOVEMBER BY MAT T SORRELL
Schlafly Full Moon Festival Nov. 4 – 4 to 10 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com Gather around six bonfires under the full autumn moon for a night of beer, pork and chili. Schlafly roasts eight whole hogs for the night’s festivities, served with sides like braised greens, mac and cheese and coleslaw and pumpkin pie for dessert. If chili is your fall meal of choice, try offerings from Vista Ramen’s Chris Bork, Pastaria and Sardella’s Ashley Shelton, Balkan Treat Box’s Loryn Nalic, The Stellar Hog’s Alex Cupp and Half & Half’s Dale Beauchamp during the Chefs Chili Cook-Off. Pair it all with seasonal Schlafly brews like white lager, pumpkin ale, coffee stout and hard apple cider.
Force de Femme Nov. 13 – 6 to 8:30 p.m., 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, lovetoeateattolove.com The second installment of Love to Eat, Eat to Love features more than 50 female chefs, restaurateurs, bartenders, sommeliers, farmers and producers. Participants include Nudo House’s Marie-Anne Velasco, 2nd Shift Brewing’s Libby Crider, EarthDance Farms’ Molly Rockamann and Reeds American Table’s Alisha Blackwell-Calvert and Naomi Roquet. Enjoy unlimited food and drink samples, as well as three drink tickets,
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and purchase additional drinks onsite. Tickets available online; proceeds support Spirit of St. Louis Women’s Fund and Girls Dreaming Big.
Taste of St. Charles Nov. 16 – 6 to 9 p.m., St. Charles Convention Center, 1 Convention Center Plaza, St. Charles, tasteofstcharles.com The Rotary Club of St. Charles hosts this tasting of some of the top food and drink the St. Charles area has to offer. Try samples from more than 30 restaurants, breweries and wineries like Prasino, Tucanos Brazilian Grill, Firebirds, Trailhead Brewing Co. and Stone Hill Winery. Sip and snack to live music from the Clarion Jazz Quartet. Tickets available online and at the door; and proceeds benefit select St. Charlesarea nonprofits.
Buds & Bourbon Nov. 16 – 6 to 9 p.m., RYSE Nightclub, Ameristar Casino, 1 Ameristar Blvd., St. Charles, budsandbourbon. 101sports.com Toast the repeal of Prohibition with tastings of fine southern whiskeys including Henry McKenna bourbon, Rittenhouse rye whiskey and Bernheim wheat whiskey, along with Budweiser beers. Guests nosh on heavy hors d’oeuvres and listen to live music from The Tommy Halloran Trio. Admission also includes a commemorative glass and a complimentary cigar. Tickets available online.
‘Planes, Trains & Automobiles’ Dinner Nov. 18 – 6 p.m., Tenacious Eats, 5700 Leona St., St. Louis, 314.605.3684, tenaciouseats.com Enjoy cocktails paired with five courses, all centered around scenes from the classic Steve Martin and John Candy comedy “Planes, Trains & Automobiles.” Dishes include How Bouta Hot Dog And A Beer?, a bacon-wrapped New York-style hot dog; Those Aren’t Pillows!, bourbon-brined smoked chicken with dumplings; and Haven’t Been Home in Years, cheese curds and cherry pie. 1980s costumes are highly encouraged. Tickets available online.
sponsored events
Spirited Sessions Nov. 16 – 7 to 10 p.m., The BHive, 4661 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: STL Barkeep Class is back in session with STL Barkeep’s Matt Longueville and Bobby “G” Gleason, master mixologist for Beam Suntory and a founding member of the U.S. Bartenders Guild. The bartenders team up to teach attendees the tricks behind some of their favorite cocktails. Tickets available online.
Holiday Fare Wine Trail Nov. 18 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Nov. 19 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Hermann Wine Trail, Hermann, hermannwinetrail.com Kick off the holiday season with a self-guided tour of the Hermann Wine Trail. The seven wineries, including Adam Puchta Winery, Bias Winery, Dierberg Star Lane’s Tasting Room, Hermannhof Winery, OakGlenn Winery, Röbller Winery and Stone Hill Winery, serve holiday small plates paired with a premier wine. Guests can also win a gift certificate from each winery and a one-night stay at an area bed-andbreakfast. Tickets must be purchased online.
November 2017
November 2017
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WHAT I DO
Mandy Estrella “ I l e a r n e d h ow to cook most things more so out of n e c e s s i t y when we moved
“ M o s t o f w h at I ’ v e b e e n d o i n g s o fa r i s one big giant test k i t c h e n . … It’s trying to
back here, because the food wasn’t here. [My ex-husband] would constantly complain, ‘The food is not here – there’s nothing to eat.’ He knew how to cook some things, so I was able to take what I learned and start learning new things.”
figure out in St. Louis: what do people want to eat, which foods do they know, which foods do they not understand – that they’re not even going to order. It’s trying different things I haven’t cooked before and getting the recipes correct, putting it in front of Hispanic people to try and say, ‘Yes, that’s correct,’ or ‘No, you probably needed to do this.’”
“ O x ta i l wa s a n o t h e r t h i n g yo u c o u l d n ’ t f i n d . We used to go to Soulard
Catch Plantain Girl at The Cuban Café pop-ups, Nov. 10 to 12 and Nov. 16 to 18 at Anew in Grand Center.
Market, and they had the whole tails. … You couldn’t find them in a regular supermarket. It was so expensive, which was crazy because the reason these cultures adapted these foods is because it was so cheap.” “I’m not trying to m i s a p p r o p r i at e someone’s food c u l t u r e . I have to be very
cautious of this. I didn’t know if people were going to perceive it correctly. I didn’t know if [Hispanic] people would be like, ‘You’re just trying to make money off our food.’ … As long as the food is correct, they’re just thrilled anyone is making it.” “ I w e n t t o w o r k at a bank for a few years.
It’s the only job I had outside of a restaurant, and it was the most boring experience of my life. I was just sitting there. I found myself bothering account holders at other people’s desks because I was so bored. … I just kept thinking, ‘I have to have a 401(k). I have to have insurance. I have to sit at a desk. That’s what everybody does.’ I lasted about two years, and then I said, ‘I can’t do it.’”
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“ S w e e t p l a n ta i n s a r e a lway s o n t h e m e n u .
Even if [customers] don’t want them, I make them because I just know if it’s not put in front of them, they aren’t going to request it. When you put it in front of them they go, ‘This is fantastic!’ I know – I know!” “ [ A w o m a n ] c o n ta c t e d m e a b o u t c at e r i n g at h e r h o m e f o r h e r h u s b a n d ’ s b i r t h d ay.
They’re both Venezuelan, and all their friends are Venezuelan and Colombian. So we did that in her home. It went great, and then six days later, they were at our popup at Anew, eating. … I was like, ‘You probably still have leftovers in your fridge and you’re up here buying food again.’ And they ordered probably five times more food than they needed and took it home with them.” “ I u s u a l ly h av e 23 independent t h o u g h t s in my brain at
all times. It’s tough to keep it all straight.”
Plantain Girl 314.578.8789, plantaingirl.com
November 2017
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
Mandy Estrella didn’t grow up with pernil and plantains – it wasn’t until she married a Dominican man after culinary school that she fell in love with the cuisines of Puerto Rico, Cuba and the Dominican Republic. That passion prompted Estrella to launch Plantain Girl, a Caribbean catering service that’s popped up at places like Crafty Chameleon, Six Mile Bridge Beer and, most recently, Anew. Here, Estrella talks education, sweet plantains and respecting another culture’s cuisine. – Catherine Klene
November 2017
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Guide to the Holidays 2017
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GUIDE TO THE
H O L I D AYS pecan pie from nathaniel reid bakery
Guide to the Holidays 2017
FREE, GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS 2017
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Guide to the Holidays 2017
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when you want to spend
$25 OR LESS When your coffers are dwindling but you’re still obligated, here are 12 creative and clever gifts for food and drink lovers that won’t pain your bank account or show up as next year’s re-gift. – Maggie Pearson
Collin Garrity Stick Vases Handmade from beautiful woods that stand up to time and wear, these dainty lil’ vases will give anyone’s table an unique organic beauty. $8 to $24. Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com
Firecracker Press STL Coasters With these thick letterpressed coasters, there’s zero chance Granny’s Manhattan will sweat its way through to her burled wood table. Four-pack: $12. Union Studio, 1605 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5398, stlunionstudio.com
Missouri State Cookie Cutter & Kitchens of the Great Midwest Food-based fiction is a special mix rarely executed well. Give both the book and a little Missouri love to the local baker in your life. Book: $16. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank. com; Cookie cutter: $5. Lemon Gem Kitchen Goods, 4180 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2744, lemongem.com
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Facture Goods Brass Spoons Anyone could use these gorgeous, handmade brass spoons sized for a salt cellar, coffee stirrer or even serving dishes. $18 to $22. Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.454.6868, bowoodfarms.com
“Hold Me Closer Tony Danza” Tumbler Getting adequately caffeinated before one leaves the house is a task many of us fail on the daily. Gift this to the friend that needs coffee to live – all of your friends. $14.50. Phoenix Rising, 6331 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.862.0609, shopphoenixrising.com
Guide to the Holidays 2017
Guide to the Holidays 2017
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when you want to spend
$ 2 5 - $ 5 0 Foodies are the best people to buy for. With so many great products out there, it’s easy to find something they don’t already have in their kitchens. These five gifts scream thoughtfulness without scary price tags. – Michael Renner
Boska Girolle Cheese Curler For 800 years – from the time Swiss monks invented Tête de Moine to the 1980s when the country that brought us engineering invented the girolle – people used whatever they had to scrape the delicious, semi-hard cheese into paperthin slices. Boska’s girolle makes easy work of shaving Tête de Moine into delightful curlicues, releasing its nutty aroma and complex flavor. $50. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com
Guide to the Holidays 2017
Olive Oil Straight from Sparta The Chronis family of St. Louis owns an olive grove in Greece. They control everything from cultivating and cold-pressing the Kalamata olives to bottling and selling the resulting extravirgin olive oil – now at a retail boutique in St. Louis. Pick up a bottle of the Olea Gold oil and a packet of Greek wild herbs for a dipping sauce of the gods. Olive oil: $20. Herbs: $5. Olea Estates, 2566 Metro Blvd., Maryland Heights, 618.888.6532, oleaestates.com
Olive wood Salt Box Olive wood is as exotic and beautiful as it is hard and strong. It’s just what designer salt wants. With extraordinary, unique grain patterns, no two salt boxes are the same, making them the definition of a one-of-a-kind gift. And over time, the olive wood will take on a richer, darker, even more beautiful hue. $50. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
Bubbly Liqueur Sets Each set pairs a bottle of Italian sparkling wine with a liqueur for festive, bubbly cocktails perfect for holiday parties galore. Choose from four sets, including the classic Kir Royale made with crème de cassis and prosecco. Who doesn’t love bubbles? $28 to $29. Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, vomfassusa.com
Bottle Snaps When blacksmith Andrew Andrasko isn’t fabricating and forging large sculptures for parks, galleries and businesses, he can be found in his studio hammering out useful metal kitchen tools like ladles, spatulas, meat forks … and these cool bottle openers in three colors. $28. NHB KnifeWorks, 7328 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.776.3800, nhbknifeworks.com
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when you want to spend
$50-$100 These are the gifts for loved ones with unparalleled taste. If they appreciate the glaze on a plate while out to dinner or notice the beauty in patinaed hardware, they’ll adore these five presents almost as much as they do you. – Maggie Pearson
Culinary Torch Not just for putting the finishing touches on creme brulee. Sear perfect steaks, bubble cheese on lasagna or caramelize, well, anything. This is a chef’s tool of luxury. $56. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
Fiesta Napkins For the aesthetically minded designer host, we suggest Kim Seybert Fiesta Napkins. Pretty enough to frame for display, they feature shibori-style dye patterns and a bold, patterned edge. Four-pack: $64. Sallie Home, 9821 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.567.7883, salliehome.com
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De Buyer Swing Plus Mandolin Know a type A cook? Chances are you do. Give them the tool to make perfectly sliced cucumbers and julienned carrots, and save them the Xanax they needn’t take. $100. Williams Sonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.567.9211, williams-sonoma.com
Springerle Cookie Molds St. Louis’ German-French history comes with cherished food traditions: rolling out strudel dough or baking Old World cookies like the delicate, anise-flavored Springerle. These holiday cookie molds will be cherished by the family baker. Prices vary. Springerle Joy, 412.977.5378, springerlejoy.com
Kate Walter Hand-Painted Bowls or Platters Local artist Kate Walter is churning out botanically inspired pottery based on her love of gardening. Gift these to someone who will cherish them enough to pass them along for generations. Prices vary. Houska Gallery, 4728 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.496.1377, houska.com
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Guide to the Holidays 2017
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A LOT Significant other always out-gift you? Never sure Mom knows just how much you appreciate all she does to keep you sane? We gotchu. When it’s time to spare no expense, order one of these gifts goals to put your money where your oh-so-grateful mouth is. – Meera Nagarajan
June Intelligent Oven If I told you there was a convection oven and computer in one that bakes, broils, toasts and roasts your food, and then sends you a push notification to let you know it’s done, would you want it? Same. A camera, a scale and presets mean she knows what you’re cooking and how to cook it without telling her a single thing. If that special someone has ever wanted a personal sous chef, here’s your chance to make their dream come true. $1,500. juneoven.com
Guide to the Holidays 2017
Officine Gullo Professional Refrigerator Made of handcrafted metal by artisans in Florence, this Lamborghini of refrigerators has a stainless-steel interior with wooden shelves and a temperature- and humiditycontrolled wine cellar to keep your bottles in pristine condition. This is so much more than a machine to keep your food cold – it’s a work of art. Price upon request. officinegullo.com
Farmbot What’s better than giving someone a garden? Giving one they don’t have to tend. Farmbot is a farming machine operated by your phone that works day and night to plant, weed, water and grow food in a raised bed according to your preferences. It optimally cares for each plant, so you can grow a variety without having to remember all the details. Just harvest and eat! $2,595. farmbot.io
Wine Club Membership Wine club memberships are the gift that keeps on giving. Every month, your loved one gets two thoughtfully selected bottles that fall in line with that month’s theme. Let the folks at Parker’s Table make you look like a star by gifting the perfect bottle again and again and again. $360 to $900 per year. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
Staub Oval Cocette What makes this particular Staub line seriously special is the eternally chic gold-and-white color combo. We love this size for searing then braising meats or even roasting a chicken. Yes, please. 5.75-quart: $325. shop. goop.com
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Guide to the Holidays 2017
Holiday EASY, BREEZY
W E A L L LOV E A N I N V I TAT I O N , B U T W H O D O E S N ’ T PA N I C AT T H E T H O U G H T O F H O ST I N G? L E T ’ S FAC E I T – I F YO U ’ R E I N T H E K I TC H E N , YO U ’ R E M I S S I N G T H E PA RT Y. T H E P L A N N I N G , T H E P R E P, T H E C L E A N U P, H O U R S OV E R T H E STOV E W I T H C O M P L I CAT E D R EC I P E S … I T D O E S N ’ T H AV E TO B E T H AT WAY. W I T H M A K E -A H E A D R EC I P E S , P R O T I P S A N D A S O L I D P L A N , YO U ’ L L F E E L L I K E A G U E ST AT YO U R OW N S H I N D I G .
Guide to the Holidays 2017
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STARTERS Bartender in a bottle Avoid playing bartender all night and choose one great cocktail or punch to serve alongside beer and wine. No time to batch? Planter’s House offers bottled Manhattans, Negronis and more, mixed and ready to go. $30 to $60. Planter’s House, 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
spiced mixed nuts
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First impressions matter, but they don’t have to be painful. Pick just a couple show-stopping, low-effort appetizers and fill in the gaps with easy cocktail party fare like bruschetta and a charcuterie board so you can start big and still focus on killing it with the rest of the meal.
roasted artichokes
Serve smart Scatter your snacks in more than one place and dish them out in batches throughout the evening. Snackdesignated gathering spots prevent bottlenecks in a crowded kitchen, and timing is everything if you want to keep your drinking guests from donning a lampshade because you ran out of food.
spicy bacon caramel corn
Austria is turning out some amazing medium-bodied, food-friendly reds perfect for the holidays. Sommelier Patricia Wamhoff of Lile Wines recommended Straka Blaufränkisch. “It has bright fruit flavors with good acidity and medium body. The tannins are moderate, and therefore it works well with a number of items from stuffing to the candied yams,” she said. “It’s a great crowd pleaser.” $24. Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com Guide to the Holidays 2017
RECIPES snacks
SPICED MIXED NUTS
SPICY BACON CARAMEL CORN
4 CUPS
ABOUT 12 CUPS ½ cup (1 stick) butter 1 cup light brown sugar ¼ cup light corn syrup 2 Tbsp. bourbon 2 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. cayenne pepper ¼ tsp. baking soda 12 cups popped popcorn (preferably stovetop) 8 slices cooked bacon, crumbled 1 cup cashews • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil and grease with cooking spray. • Melt the butter in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Stir in the brown sugar and corn syrup. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer undisturbed 4 minutes. Stir vigorously, then continue simmering, stirring every 30 seconds until the mixture turns amber, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat. • Stir in the bourbon, salt, cayenne and baking soda, then gently stir in the popcorn, bacon and cashews until evenly coated. • Spread the popcorn on the baking sheet in an even layer and bake 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. • Spread out the popcorn on wax or parchment paper and let cool at least 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to break up clumps. Serve immediately or cover and store up to 5 days.
Guide to the Holidays 2017
½ cup dark brown sugar 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. smoked paprika ½ tsp. cayenne pepper ½ tsp. chile powder ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp. Old Bay 1 large egg white 4 cups (about 1¼ lbs.) mixed whole almonds, pecans and cashews • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Grease a rimmed baking sheet with oil or nonstick cooking spray. • In a medium bowl, stir together the sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne, chile powder, pepper and Old Bay. • In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg white until slightly foamy. Stir in the sugar mixture until smooth. • Fold in the nuts until evenly coated. Spread in an even layer on the baking sheet and bake until toasted, about 25 minutes. Let cool, stirring every few minutes to prevent sticking. • Break up any remaining clumps and serve or store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week.
ROASTED ARTICHOKES WITH GARLIC AIOLI 8 SERVINGS 4 10- to 12-count cans baby artichokes ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Garlic aioli, for dipping (recipe follows) • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil, then grease with nonstick cooking spray. • Drain the artichokes and pat very dry. In a large bowl, combine the artichokes, olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss to coat evenly, then place the artichokes on the baking sheet in a single layer. • Roast until the artichokes brown on the bottoms and edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with garlic aioli.
GARLIC AIOLI ABOUT ¾ CUP 2 garlic cloves Kosher salt, to taste 1 large egg yolk 2 tsp. lemon juice ½ tsp. Dijon mustard ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil Freshly ground black pepper, to taste • Using a large knife, mince the garlic. Sprinkle with salt and use the side of the knife to press the garlic into a paste. • In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, lemon juice and mustard. Add the olive and vegetable oils a few drops at a time, whisking constantly until incorporated and emulsified. Whisk in the garlic paste, salt and pepper. If the aioli is too
thick, whisk in 1 to 2 drops of water. Cover and chill until ready to serve.
sides
WINTER SALAD 8 SERVINGS 2 cups walnuts ¹∕³ cup maple syrup ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste ¼ tsp. cinnamon Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes ¹∕³ cup olive oil ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 1 Tbsp. fig preserves Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 6 cups mixed baby kale and spinach 2 cups arugula 1 cup dried cranberries 1 cup pomegranate seeds 8 oz. crumbled goat cheese • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. • In a medium bowl, toss together the walnuts, maple syrup, ½ teaspoon salt, cinnamon and red pepper flakes. Spread in an even layer on the baking sheet and bake, stirring 2 or 3 times, until golden and toasted, 15 to 25 minutes. Place the walnuts on parchment in a single layer to cool. • In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, balsamic, fig preserves, salt and pepper. Set aside. • In a large serving bowl, combine the mixed greens, arugula, cranberries, pomegranate seeds and cooled walnuts. Add the goat cheese, drizzle with the balsamicfig dressing to taste and gently toss.
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SIDES Whether you want to take your meal to the next level or need to win the it’s-not-acompetition potluck, sides like these spiced carrots have you covered.
spiced with
carrots
carrot
top
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Guide to the Holidays 2017
SPICED CARROTS WITH CARROT TOP GREMOLATA 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 lbs. (3 bunches) small carrots with tops 2 large shallots, thinly sliced 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. cumin Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ cup chopped cilantro ½ jalapeno, minced 1 tsp. lemon zest • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Remove the carrot tops and set aside. • On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together the carrots, shallots, olive oil, cumin, salt and pepper. Roast, stirring occasionally until the carrots are tender and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. • Drizzle the carrots with the lemon juice and toss to coat, then transfer to a platter. • Finely chop the carrot tops. In a small bowl, make a gremolata by combining ½ cup chopped carrot tops, the cilantro, jalapeno and lemon zest. • Sprinkle the gremolata over the carrots and serve.
ROASTED BROCCOLI WITH KALAMATA OLIVES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 3 heads broccoli, cut into florets 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, roughly chopped 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup grated Parmesan
Guide to the Holidays 2017
Juice of 1 lemon Freshly grated nutmeg, to finish • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil, and grease with a little olive oil. • In a large bowl, combine the broccoli, olive oil, olives, garlic, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Toss until well coated, then place on the baking sheet in an even layer. • Roast until the broccoli is tender and starts to turn golden-brown on the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. • Place on a serving platter and finish with the Parmesan, lemon juice and a sprinkle of nutmeg.
VEGAN CREAMED SPINACH 8 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. coconut oil 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 lbs. fresh spinach, chopped 1 12-oz. package firm tofu ½ cup soy milk ½ tsp. garlic powder Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • In a large skillet, warm the coconut and olive oils over medium heat. Stir in the onion and garlic and cook until soft and translucent, but not brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted, about 5 minutes. • Meanwhile, place the tofu, soy milk, garlic powder, salt and pepper in a blender, and puree until smooth. • Stir the tofu mixture into the spinach and cook until warmed through. Adjust the seasoning to taste and place in an oven-safe baking dish. Keep warm until ready to serve, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days ahead. (To reheat, bake the dish in a
325-degree oven until bubbling, about 20 minutes.)
SLOW-COOKER MASHED POTATOES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 5 lbs. russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed ½ cup chicken broth ½ cup half-and-half 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 8-oz. package cream cheese 1 cup sour cream ½ to ¾ cup softened butter, sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • In the insert of a slow cooker, combine the potatoes, broth, halfand-half and garlic. Cover and cook on low until the potatoes are fork tender, 4 to 8 hours. • Using a masher or hand mixer, mash the potatoes. Add the cream cheese, sour cream, butter, salt and pepper and mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings, then set the slow cooker to warm until ready to serve.
mains
BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH HORSERADISH 8 TO 10 SERVINGS ¾ cup flour 8 (5 to 6 lbs.) boneless beef short ribs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil 3½ Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary, divided 2 large carrots, cut into ½-inch pieces 2 celery stalks, cut into ½-inch pieces 2 large onions, roughly chopped 1½ cups dry red wine
2 cups beef stock, plus more if needed 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce Juice and zest of 1 lemon 1 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped ¼ cup rosemary leaves, finely chopped 2 large garlic cloves, crushed and finely chopped ½ cup freshly grated horseradish root or ¹∕³ cup prepared horseradish • Place the flour in a shallow bowl. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour and shake off the excess. • In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add 1¾ tablespoons finely chopped rosemary and 4 ribs to prevent crowding. Brown the ribs on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes, then transfer to a plate. Repeat with 1 tablespoon olive oil, and the remaining 1¾ tablespoons rosemary and 4 ribs. • Reduce the heat to medium and add the carrot, celery and onion. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 15 minutes. • Increase the heat to medium-high and deglaze by adding the wine and scraping up browned bits from the bottom of the Dutch oven with a wooden spoon. Add the stock and Worcestershire and bring to a boil. • Return the ribs to the Dutch oven. If the ribs are not covered with liquid, add just enough beef stock to cover. • Reduce the heat to low, cover the Dutch oven and simmer until the meat is fork tender and begins falling off the bone, about 2 hours. Let cool completely. Prepare the meat for serving, or refrigerate in the covered Dutch oven up to 2 days. • About 1 hour before serving, combine the lemon zest, parsley, ¼ cup rosemary, garlic and salt
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MAINS Fast and easy doesn’t have to mean plain and boring. It might take a bit of convincing, but try substituting short ribs for your Hanukkah brisket. The bright, meaty flavors are the same, but the texture is more luscious and less stringy. Lasagna is a Christmas Eve tradition in our house, but this year we’re mixing it up with a wild mushroom version.
slow-cooker mashed
potatoes
and
and
hot
roast
fast
turkey
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Rocking the kitchen choreography is only one part of great hospitality. Having something for everyone can be effortless with recipes like decadent kosher short ribs, vegetarian wild mushroom lasagna and vegan creamed spinach (the secret is silken tofu – no one needs to know). Bonus: all can be made up to two days ahead. But even when you’re cooking all week, finding the time and space to make your dream menu can be a big problem. For a stress-free holiday, free up your stovetop and save that premium oven space with recipes like slow-cooker mashed potatoes and by using your grill (set to low) to keep dishes warm. You’ve got this. Guide to the Holidays 2017
to taste in a small bowl. Stir in the lemon juice, horseradish and the remaining ¼ cup olive oil until well combined. Set aside. • Remove the layer of fat from the meat, and, if desired, remove the bones. Place the meat on a plate and set aside. • Place the Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat and bring the sauce to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and return the meat to the sauce. Continue to cook until the meat is heated through, about 20 minutes. Transfer meat to a platter, cover and keep warm. • Increase the heat to medium-high and reduce the liquid, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 20 to 25 minutes. Spoon the sauce over the meat, top with the horseradish-herb mixture and serve.
Cooking this dish a day or two ahead makes it easy to just lift off excess fat that hardens on top.
HOT AND FAST ROAST TURKEY 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 1 10- to 13-lb. turkey, thawed 2 Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon, quartered (optional) 1 onion, quartered (optional) Fresh herbs (optional) Chicken broth • Place the oven rack on the lowest or second lowest position and preheat the oven to 475 degrees. • Remove the pop-up thermometer and any trussing from the turkey and discard. Remove the giblets and
Guide to the Holidays 2017
neck, reserving for gravy, if desired. • Rub the turkey with the olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Pull the wing tips away from the body, twist them and tuck them backward near the neck. Cover the end of each drumstick with foil. Stuff the cavity with lemon, onion and herbs, without filling completely, if desired. • Place a U- or V-shaped roasting rack in the bottom of a roasting pan. Put the prepared turkey on the rack, making sure the bird doesn’t rest on the bottom of the pan. Add 1 to 2 inches broth to the pan to prevent smoking. • Roast until the internal temperature in the thickest part of both the thigh and the breast reaches 160 degrees, 50 to 75 minutes. Rotate the pan halfway through for even cooking. If the turkey is browning too quickly, cover loosely with foil. If the drippings start to smoke, add more broth. • Remove from the oven and cover completely with foil. Let rest until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees, 30 to 45 minutes, then carve. Use the juices from the bottom of the pan to make gravy, if desired.
TURKEY COOK TIMES TURKEY WEIGHT
COOK TIME
10 to 13 pounds
50 to 75 minutes
13 to 16 pounds
1¼ to 1¾ hours
16 to 19 pounds
1½ to 2 hours
19 to 22 pounds
1¾ to 2¼ hours
22 to 24 pounds
2 to 2 ½ hours
WILD MUSHROOM LASAGNA 8 SERVINGS ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 large shallots, minced 2 lbs. wild mushrooms (oyster, shiitake, cremini, baby bellas), sliced 1 cup dry white wine 4 Tbsp. butter or herb oil 3 large garlic cloves, minced 4 Tbsp. flour 3 cups half-and-half 1 cup grated fontina, divided 1 cup grated Gruyere, divided ½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 8-oz. ball fresh mozzarella, grated 2 9-oz. boxes no-boil lasagna sheets 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. • In a large pan over mediumhigh heat, warm ¼ cup olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add half the shallots and saute, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and toss to coat. Cook until the mushrooms begin to color but are still plump, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the white wine to deglaze the pan and continue to cook until the mixture is syrupy, 5 to 7 minutes. Place the mushrooms in a large bowl and set aside. • Make a bechamel by melting the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When the butter foams, add the remaining shallots and cook until they begin to turn translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stir to combine. Cook until the garlic has started to soften,
then sprinkle in the flour and stir to combine. Cook until the mixture turns light brown and smells nutty, 5 to 7 minutes. Slowly add the half-and-half, whisking constantly. Cook until the sauce is thick and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes. • Add ¼ cup fontina, ¼ cup Gruyere, the nutmeg, salt and pepper and stir to combine. Reserve 1 cup bechamel, and pour the rest over the mushrooms. Stir to combine. • Assemble the lasagna by spreading the reserved bechamel in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Place a layer of lasagna sheets over the sauce, being careful not to overlap. Layer about one-third of the mushroom mixture over the pasta, and sprinkle with one-third of the fontina and Gruyere. Add another layer of pasta, and top with about one-third of the mozzarella. Repeat until the pan is full. • Top with remaining cheeses and the Parmesan. Cover with a buttered sheet of foil and refrigerate up to 2 days (remove 30 minutes before baking) or bake immediately 45 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until golden and bubbling. story continues on p. 20
On this month’s Sound Bites Sauce contributor Marianne Moore, editor Heather Hughes and art director Meera Nagarajan reveal their tips, tricks and time-tested recipes for an effortless holiday party. Tune in to St. Louis on the Air on 90.7 FM in November and get the answers to your entertaining conundrums.
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DESSERTS Host smarter, not harder. Dessert is one of the easiest things to outsource for the holidays. Pick up favorites like pecan pie from Sugaree Baking Co., or opt for classics reimagined by the elaborate French pastry wizards at Nathaniel Reid Bakery (like the ones pictured here). If you’re on the fence of the great pie-cake debate, have it all with the Pake from La Patisserie Chouquette, a cake/pie hybrid that layers toasted buttercream between eggnog cheesecake, spice cake, pumpkin pie and bourbon-pecan pie.
pumpkin pie apple pie
pecan pie
G E T
I T
Nathaniel Reid Bakery 11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.858.1019, nrbakery.com La Patisserie Chouquette 1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com Sugaree Baking Co. 1242 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.5496, sugareebaking.com
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Guide to the Holidays 2017
Guide to the Holidays 2017
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