cranberryorange biscotti, p. 35
Guide to the
holidays November 2020 I SAUCE ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // saucemagazine.com F R E E , N OVE M B E R MAGAZINE 2020 I 1
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NOVEMBER 2020 • VOLUME 20, ISSUE 9 What's your favorite St. Louis classic?
Allyson Mace Root beer float with chocolate Meera Nagarajan ice cream and diet Fitz’s. Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Lion’s Choice turkey Adam Rothbarth sandwich on wheat Lauren Healey with pepper jack and Provel. Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Meera Nagarajan, Samuel Reed, Adam Rothbarth, Carmen Troesser CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes Huff, A classic slinger Marianne Moore, Meera Nagarajan, Adam for me with a Rothbarth, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson Busch beer on the side. ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Angie Rosenberg EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Micah Barnes, Eva France, Blakely Gibeaut, Riley Mack, Greta Nagy PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Lion's Choice beef with extra beef, extra seasoning and then topped with french fries and au jus and a lot of horseradish sauce.
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2020 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 November 2020
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contents N OV EM B ER 2 02 0
editors' picks 9 EAT THIS Soup Dumpling STL’s pork and crab dumpling
features 22
SENDING STL
St. Louis food products to send for the holidays
by michelle volansky
by adam rothbarth
10 HIT LIST
25
8 new places to try this month
Foodie gifts at every price point
by lauren healey, adam rothbarth and liz wolfson 15 DRINK THIS Mighty Kind cannabis seltzer
by lauren healey 16 ELIXIR Brine is king: cocktails for pickle lovers
by liz wolfson
COVER DETAILS MAILING IN THE HOLIDAYS Bake and share these cranberryorange biscotti from our holiday recipes feature on p. 35. PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
THE SAUCE GIFT GUIDE by meera nagarajan 35
MAILING IN THE HOLIDAYS Recipes to make and ship
by marianne moore 43
POPPIN’ BOTTLES Alternative bubbles for
your holiday celebration
by heather hughes huff
18 A TOUR OF FERGUSON With mayor Ella Jones
by liz wolfson
last bite 48 WHAT I DO Author and foodways scholar Rafia Zafar
by liz wolfson
Lion’s Choice PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
50 LANDMARK by adam rothbarth
November 2020
blue cheese cookies, recipe on
p. 39
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Eat This
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
Soup Dumplings STL 8110 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.445.4605, Facebook: Soup Dumplings STL
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
The xiao long bao (soup dumplings) at acclaimed Shanghai-style restaurant Private Kitchen were so exceptional they justified their own eponymous spin-off storefront at Soup Dumplings STL. The musttry choice is filled with pork and crab. Slurp like a pro by scooping one up in your soup spoon, poking a hole with your chopsticks to let the hot, savory broth pool around the dumpling, and inhale it in one graceful gulp. Mix a dipping sauce of vinegar, chili oil and soy sauce to taste for the kingtier comforting combo of salty, sweet and spicy. A word to the wise: Always order an extra round.
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8 new places to try this month
PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN
hit list
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EDERA ITALIAN EATERY This Central West End spot features one of the most beautiful new patios in the city. Mike Randolph, the mastermind behind the now-closed Randolfi’s and Good Pie, is at the helm as consulting chef. The arugula salad with plentiful pickled shallots, cherry tomatoes, bits of candied almond, and a savory goat cheese vinaigrette is the perfect appetizer to prep your palate. The pappardelle Bolognese was also delectable with its sauce of spicy, slowly rendered pork, rosemary, tomato and cream. And the salsiccia pizza with house-made pork sausage, mozzarella, crispy kale and garlic was dotted with vinegary Calabrian chilies and had a perfectly chewy crust fit for a gondolier. Service is currently limited to carryout and patio dining, using mostly disposable serviceware – something to keep in mind if you’re looking for a romantic night out.
48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com
EDERA PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; RED KNOT PHOTO BY ADAM ROTHBARTH
TOO MUCH SAUCE
opposite page: fresh pastas from edera italian eatery; this page from top, the patio at edera italian eatery, a selection of dishes from red knot culinary at handlebar
POCHA Though it’s not close to our office, this new Korean restaurant in St. Ann has us ready to jump in the car again. The kimchi pancake was perfectly cooked and came with a beautifully tangy sauce; the yaki udon noodles were full of garlic and funk, with plenty of tasty veggies bathed in delightfully spicy sauce. The omu-rice saw ultra-savory fried rice wrapped in a cozy blanket of eggs. A couple of soju potion cocktails (we tried the mandarin-ginger and citron flavors) got us through the afternoon with a boost of fresh fruit and dangerously subtle alcohol.
10678 St. Charles Rock Road, St. Ann, 314.429.4255, pocha-stl.com
RED KNOT CULINARY AT HANDLEBAR
Too Much Sauce’s soulful cooking elevates fried food to an awesome place. Crispy, spicy hot catfish topped with pickles and fresh onion woke us up, while dazzling wings (we loved the KO hot lemon pepper and STL sweet and spicy sauces) packed a serious punch. Snappy, airy fried green beans were flawlessly executed, as were the crispy-but-tender onion rings. The vegan cauliflower wings – ordered spicy, of course – gave our office veg-heads something to sing about. Don’t be misled by the name – everything had just the right amount of sauce. But that doesn’t mean we didn’t get lost in it.
If someone had told us six months ago that HandleBar would be turning out fine dining-level cuisine on its patio, we probably would not have believed it. Enter the pandemic, and then Red Knot Culinary, a new project from former Brasserie sous chef Phill Camper. A permanent collab between the two entities has yielded dishes like a rich, impossibly fresh shrimp ‘n’ grits, an awesomely balanced kale salad with citronette and orange supremes, and a killer BLT with pimento cheese. Camper’s goat cheesecake stopped us in our tracks. HandleBar’s 2020 experience may be completely different from what we’re used to, but we’ll remain here for it.
5249 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.448.6260, too-much-sauce-stl. business.site
4127 Manchester Ave., St. Louis (inside HandleBar), 314.652.2212, handlebarstl.com, redknotstl.com
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HIT LIST p. 3 of 3
this page clockwise from top left: the dining room at the lucky accomplice, chef logan ely, taquitos from lazy tiger, cocktail from lazy tiger, interior of lazy tiger; opposite page: roasted pork collar from the lucky accomplice
CAFE LA VIE If you’re looking to escape the mundane and experience the good life, Cafe la Vie inside the new Le Meridien hotel in Clayton is ready to serve a little fantasy. Start your meal with the savory yet slightly sweet french onion soup with sourdough and gruyere or the delightful little gem salad, which comes with crunchy marcona almonds, chunks of navel orange, green olives, pecorino Romano, sherry vinaigrette and crunchy, buttered bread crumbs. We also enjoyed the burger with bordelaise, Comté cheese and fried shallots on a brioche bun served with perfectly crispy fries. Don’t miss the gooey butter cake gelato or a sparkling sip off the happy hour menu, like The Countryside with vodka, orgeat, St. Louis Juice Press’ beet-orange juice, fresh lemon juice and prosecco.
THE LUCKY ACCOMPLICE
7730 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, Facebook: Cafe la Vie
NOVELLUS
LAZY TIGER
Novellus is the latest in a wave of new food and drink spots opening on St. Charles’ Main Street. The new American restaurant offers upscale comfort food, including salads, flatbreads, small plates and a creative cocktail program. The Novellus salad is zesty and refreshing, featuring crisp jicama, orange and a citrus vinaigrette balanced by toasted pumpkins seeds and nutty Parmesan. The muffuletta sandwich substitutes an olive and red pepper spread for the traditional olive salad, lending briny flavor without being overly oily. The spinach and mushroom flatbread, prepared with a light alfredo sauce, was satisfyingly chewy. The house-made potato chips, which are perfectly fried and seasoned, were a surprising standout.
This cocktail bar from the team behind Yellowbelly and Retreat Gastropub offers bespoke cocktails and a delicious food menu. The Lazy Tiger is a sweet and spicy treat made with Agave de Cortes mezcal, orange shrub, honey, serrano pepper, Tajin and lime, while those with a taste for something drier will appreciate the Street Legal, a gin martini made with sherry and blanc vermouth. The food offerings, while limited, are hardly an afterthought: The chicken pibil taquitos are deliciously smoky, and the grilled octopus toast is just the right texture – muscular but not tough. For those in need of a heartier meal, the short rib slab burger is tender and flavorful; it comes dressed with sweet roasted peppers and fontina cheese and is served on a house-made bun.
201 N. Main St., St. Charles, 636.896.4800, thenovellus.com 12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
210 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, lazytigerstl.com
The Lucky Accomplice sees chef Logan Ely applying the highly creative approach he developed at his debut establishment Shift to an expanded (but no less impressive) menu. Everything we tried exhibited thoughtful attention to detail, from the carpaccio-style layered beets, dressed with a beet béarnaise and both cooked and flakey dried black trumpet mushrooms, to the everything tater tot, a latke-like mound of crispy, grated potatoes topped with cream cheese and cured salmon. The creaminess of the eggplant and burrata caramelle’s filling played well against the tangy preserved tomato topping and perfect chewiness of its house-made pasta wrap. The oversized toasted raviolo serves visual drama with a wink; it’s filled with ricotta and a surprisingly light pork Bolognese. The smooth screwdriver slushy is a not-to-be-missed cocktail; topped with a vanilla whipped yogurt, it tastes like a boozy creamsicle smoothie.
2501 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.6100, theluckyaccomplice.com
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drink This Cannabis is having a serious resurgence in food and beverage thanks to legislation decriminalizing marijuana use for medicinal (passed in Missouri) as well as recreational (passed in Illinois) purposes. The Pineberry seltzer exudes notes of pineapple and strawberry, along with some earthy funk from the 10 milligrams of broad-spectrum CBD (cannabidiol), a non-psychoactive component of cannabis purported to promote relaxation, among other benefits. A non-carbonated, THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) version of the drink should also be available locally within the next six months or so. – Lauren Healey Four-pack: $15. Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com, bemightykind.com
November 2020
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BRINE IS KING C O C K TA I L S
F O R
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BY LIZ WOLFSON // PHOTOS BY SAM U EL REED
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Pickles are the superhero ingredient here to save you from cocktail malaise. Sure, we all know about dirty martinis, and anyone who’s cruised a bloody mary buffet has likely dressed up the brunch classic with pickled vegetables. But pickles lend themselves to many cocktails besides the standards. On a very basic level, pickling is a method of food preservation that uses salt and vinegar, usually combined over high heat, to prevent the growth of rot-causing bacteria. The process also transforms food’s texture and flavor, giving it crispness as well as infusing it with the essence of whatever spices or herbs are boiled with the vinegar and, of course, sourness.
“When you pickle or brine something … it totally changes the taste,” said Eric Weis, bar manager at the newly opened Edera Italian Eatery in the Central West End. “So, you could have something like a bitter melon, and it can actually turn a little sweet. It just depends on what you brine it with. You can brine it with a little sugar; you can brine it with salt.” Weis is a big fan of using pickles in cocktails. “My wife [Jentri Alderdyce, operations manager at Brennan’s] and I are pickle freaks. When we do martinis at home, we use pickled onions and spicy pickled asparagus as our go-to. Brine is king,” he added firmly. Industry veteran Megan Lechner concurs. “Pickled produce is great in a cocktail,” she said. “Usually citrus has to bring all the
sour flavors and acidity. Pickled produce allows you to bring in more flavors than you usually have available to hit that sour note. It really adds a nice complexity,” she added. At Planter’s House, the In a Pickle cocktail outsells every other drink on the menu five to one. Planter’s House co-owner Ted Kilgore developed the hit cocktail in 2010 while tending bar at the original location of Taste by Niche. “The majority of the stuff we did was inspired by what we had on hand or customer requests,” he recalled. One night, a customer simply told him, “I like pickles.” Thinking on his feet, Kilgore started grabbing ingredients that reminded him of pickles. Gin and elderflower liqueur added bright, floral notes; lime juice lent acidity; velvet falernum gave a hint of spicy clove; and muddled dill and cucumber added herbal and vegetal aspects to the cucumber and rose notes in Hendrick’s gin. Though In a Pickle doesn’t contain any actual pickles, Kilgore believes the drink’s ability to hit many different spots on the palate – a product of his effort to recreate pickles’ complex flavor profile – is what’s made it such a lasting success. Whether you have an overabundance of fruits and veggies from your quarantine garden begging to be preserved or you’re looking to branch out from your grocery store’s same-old options, here are a few pickle-forward cocktail recipes to inspire your next home mixology session.
PHOTO BY SAMUEL REED
Edera Italian Eatery 48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
November 2020
Pickled Mango Mezcarita Courtesy of Megan Lechner 1 COCKTAIL 1 oz. blanco tequila 1½ oz. mezcal 2½ slices pickled mango* 3 Tbsp. pickled mango brine Juice of ½ lime Tajín,* to taste • Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain into an ice-filled, Tajínrimmed rocks glass, pressing the mixture through a fine mesh sieve with the back of a spoon. *Pickled mangoes and Tajín available at Jay International Foods, 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.2552, Facebook: Jay International Foods
It Sparks Joy Courtesy of Megan Lechner
back of a spoon. Add simple syrup to taste, then add ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with the lemon twist. *Pickled beets available at Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com
In a Pickle
Courtesy of Planter’s House’s Ted Kilgore 1 COCKTAIL 1½ oz. Hendrick’s gin ½ oz. John D. Taylor's velvet falernum ½ oz. St. Germain elderflower liqueur ¾ oz. lime juice 2 sprigs dill 2 slices English cucumber • In an ice-filled shaker, combine the gin, velvet falernum, elderflower liqueur, lime juice, 1 sprig dill and 1 slice English cucumber. Shake vigorously 20 seconds, then strain into an ice-filled highball glass. Garnish with the remaining cucumber slice and dill sprig.
1 COCKTAIL 1½ oz. pickled beet* 1½ oz. vodka ½ oz. St. Germain elderflower liqueur ½ oz. lemon juice Simple syrup, to taste Lemon twist, for garnish
for more pickled cocktail recipes, check out saucemagazine.com
• In a blender, combine the pickled beet, vodka, elderflower liqueur and lemon juice and blend until smooth. Strain into a shaker, pressing the mixture through a fine mesh sieve with the
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Drake’s Place “I love to go there on Friday to get my catfish sandwich. When I walk in, they say, ‘OK, Ella’s here, we know she’s gonna order catfish; instead of french fries, she wants potato salad.’” 701 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.736.1140, drakesplacestl.com
clockwise from top left: mayor ella jones at drake's place, crispy fried catfish at drake's place, cathy jenkins of cathy's kitchen
MAYOR ELLA JONES PORTRAIT AND DRAKE'S PLACE PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
Cathy’s Kitchen “I love her gumbo, and she makes a good plate of red beans and rice.” You know if one gumbo master praises another cook’s gumbo, it’s got to be good. 250 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.524.9200, cjenkinscompany.com
a tour of ferguson M AYO R E L L A J O N E S
Last year, Ella Jones made national headlines when she became the first Black woman to be elected mayor of Ferguson. Even history-makers have to eat, and when it comes to food, Jones is a woman of strong opinions. Born and raised in New Orleans as one of eight children, she enjoys cooking big pots of gumbo or platters of fried fish for family and friends, as well as introducing them to new ways of preparing familiar ingredients, like eggplant smothered with shrimp. “Food brings people together,” the mayor told us. “It’s a time to relax, it’s a time to share your memories, it’s a time to hear the same jokes that have been told year after year. It’s time to see the new addition to the families.” Here, Mayor Jones shares with us some of her favorite places to eat and shop for food in and around Ferguson. – Liz Wolfson
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Ferguson Brewing Co. The wings and cod sandwich here get high marks from the mayor. “A lot of people go there because of the various beers that they brew, but I’m not a beer drinker. But the food is good there also.” 418 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.254.7359, fergusonbrewing.com
DOUGHNUTS PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO; BREWERY PHOTO COURTESY OF FERGUSON BREWING CO.
Ferguson Farmers Market “We have a great farmers market. I love to go there and get my green tomatoes. I went a couple of weeks ago, and there was a bakery there. I bought some cinnamon rolls, and they were very good. The farmers market is a great place for people to meet up on Saturday mornings and get fresh fruits and vegetables.” May to October: Plaza 501, 501 S. Florissant Road; November to April: St. Stephens Episcopal Church, 33 N. Clay Ave., Ferguson, fergusonfarmersmarket.com
November 2020
Old Town Donuts The mayor is in agreement with Sauce’s readers, who routinely choose Old Town Donuts as their Readers’ Choice favorite in the doughnut category. “I love their chocolate doughnuts. They’re cake, and I love the cake doughnuts, and I like the chocolate ones. It’s not heavily glazed.” 510 N. New Florissant Road, Florissant, 314.831.0907, oldtowndonuts.com
from left: old fashioned doughnuts from old town donuts, ferguson brewing co.
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PARTNER CONTENT
W ESTPORT SOCIA L DISTA NCI NG “Our venue is massive, but it’s not just standing room – we have large lounge areas throughout the venue, which essentially give guests their own living room space,” said general manager Jessica Hutson. “We have huge secluded booths, and the bar stools are all spread out. It’s really the perfect place to come with your ‘quaran-team’ that you’ve been with through this crisis, and you can have a safe space away from other people. There’s plenty of room where you won’t feel on top of each other.”
a questionnaire, and their temperatures are checked. No one is allowed to work or enter if any of those things are alarming. And we all wear masks at all times.” Guests are also required to keep masks on unless they’re sitting down eating or drinking. “They have to have them on when they’re walking around or playing games,” she said. While there’s plenty of sanitizer dispersed throughout the space for guests to use, the staff also works tirelessly to ensure everything is spick-and-span.
In addition to the colossal space, Westport Social has plenty of safety measures in place.
“We have sanitizing stations at each of our games, and the staff sanitizes the games before and after each usage,” Hutson said. “We’re only allowing one group of guests at a game at a time, and there are usually only four to six guests in a group. We are also constantly sanitizing high-touch surfaces like tables, bars and handrails.”
“All of the employees go through a health screening before they enter the building,” she said. “They fill out
The gorgeous patio has also been revamped to allow for more social distancing, and heaters have been
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added to keep guests warm all winter. With all these safety measures in place, Westport Social is also a great place to watch the big game. “As heartbreaking as it is that [most] sports aren’t allowing fans, you feel like you’re at the game when you’re here,” she said. “We have over 20 TVs, and there is a view of at least one from any point in the venue.” They’re also finally able to bring back live music, starting with acoustic duos and trios on Friday and Saturday nights. Westport Social has revamped its menu a bit to allow for more individual portions and is deemed a restaurant overall. Under current restrictions, they are allowed to be open until 1 a.m. The restaurant is now open daily from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. except Sunday, when it closes at 11 p.m. “We wouldn’t be doing what we’re doing if we weren’t certain that we’re doing it right and keeping the community and our staff – who are essentially our family – as safe as possible,” Hutson said.
PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY
If the pandemic is making you feel like it’s hard to be social, we totally get it. Luckily, the staff at the expansive Westport Social is working to make going out with your friends and family a lot easier and safer with its 10,000 square feet to chill in with your designated “quaran-team.”
BY LAUREN HEALEY
2019 November 2020
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Sending
STL IF
YOUR THIS
HOME
FRIENDS
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AND
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by adam rothbarth // illustration by vidhya nagarajan
5 POUNDS OF MAMA TOSCANO’S BREADED RAVIOLI
Most people in this country don’t know about toasted ravioli. It’s your job to teach them. $50. Mama Toscano’s Ravioli, 2201 Macklind Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.2926, mamatoscano.com November 2020
KATIE’S FROZEN PIZZA
Forget fruitcakes and candy canes - your homies want pizza. Send them some of the best. $12. Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Osteria, katiespizza.com
5-POUND BLOCK OF PROVEL
Either people know what Provel is and they love it, or they don’t and you’re about to change their lives. Win-win. $29. Viviano & Sons, 5139 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5476, shopviviano.com
CHOOSEYOUR-OWN SALAMI PACK Pick out five classics from one of the country’s greatest salumerias. $69. Salume Beddu, salumebeddu.com
LION’S CHOICE FAMOUS SEASONING
We don’t recommend mailing roast beef sandwiches, so do the next best thing with a big shaker of the best roast beef seasoning. 18.75 ounces: $9. Lion’s Choice, lionschoice.com
SAINT LOUIS GIFT BASKET
Fitz’s root beer! Billy Goat chips! Switzer’s! This box contains some of STL’s greatest hits. $35. Walter Knoll Florist, wkf.com
MAKE-YOUROWN IMO’S PIZZA KIT Sure, St. Louis-style pizza joints have started popping up in other cities, but nothing’s as good as the original. With this make-yourown kit, your loved ones will have all they need to create a “square beyond compare.” $64.50. Imo’s Pizza, imospizza. goldbelly.com
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THE SAUCE GIFT GUIDE Foodie gifts at every price point by meera nagarajan
when you want to spend
U N D E R
$ 2 5
Screen-printed tea towels You could use these tea towels for tidying up, but they would also be charming hanging from the oven handle door or even used as dinner linens. $15. Craft Alliance, 5080 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.725.1177, craftalliance.org Andy Warhol puzzle Puzzles are perfect for long winter months; they’re also ideal for keeping us occupied while social distancing. With this double-sided version, you’ll have two works of art when you’re done. $16. Saint Louis Art Museum, 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org
TIFFIN BOX, TEA TOWELS PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Brunch plush toys Get your favorite good boy or girl one of these toys that celebrate the best meal of all: brunch. Choose between a classic bloody mary, a delectable looking chicken and waffle, or avocado toast. $14. Four Muddy Paws, 1711 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.7297, fourmuddypaws.com
November 2020
3-Tier Tiffin Box Let’s not fight about it: This is the best kind of lunchbox. Three stacked tiers help keep lunches organized; being able to keep your lunch components separate makes packing your lunch a cinch. $20. Seema, 10635 Page Ave., Overland, 314.423.9998, facebook.com/pageseema
How Coffee Works! travel mug Ponder how far your coffee has traveled to become the best part of waking up while sipping from this mug, which features an illustration of the coffee-making process by local artist Dan Zettwoch. $29. Society6, society6. com/danzettwoch saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
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when you want to spend
$ 2 5 - $ 5 0 by meera nagarajan
JELLY AND SPREADER SEAT, BIJOUX HANDCRAFTED CHOCOLATES PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Bijoux Handcrafted Chocolates 24-Piece Box There’s nothing more lovely than a box of chocolates, especially when they look as beautiful as the hand-painted ones from Bijoux. Mix and match bonbon flavors like brown butter-vanilla, blood orange and chocolatehazelnut. $45. Bijoux Handcrafted Chocolates, 13014 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.307.7303, bijouxchocolates.com
Sun Rise Junmai Ginjo When we met Kenichiro Kojima, this sake’s producer, he opened our minds to the vast world of rice wine. This great introductory bottle with notes of green apple and melon has a soft finish that sake enthusiasts and novices alike will enjoy. $33. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.447.9463, wineandcheeseplace.com November 2020
Jelly and Spreader Set We love Union Studio’s focus on local artists and makers. This set, which includes Al Wescott’s “indo” plate, a Collin Garrity hardwood spreader and Larder & Cupboard’s jam, is proof that wonderful things are being made here at home. $36. Union Studio, 1605 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5398, stlunionstudio.com
Original Shrub Sample Pack Lena Pedersen Acidic and fruity shrubs add Coffee Cups complexity to cocktails or bubbly Danish ceramist Lena Pederson water. St. Louis-based Heirloom makes the coffee cup of our Bottling Co.’s sampler pack comes dreams. This porcelain cup’s with four distinct flavors to up stable shape and feather-like your drink game: grapefruitlightness makes drinking from it ginger-vanilla, blackberry-lemonone of life’s simple pleasures. $23. mint, pineapple-allspice and Louisiana Museum of Modern blueberry-sage. $25. Heirloom Art, Denmark, butik.louisiana.dk Bottling Co., heirloombottling.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
when you want to spend
$50-$100 by meera nagarajan
Knead Bakehouse Bread Bags This stylish bag checks all the boxes: chic, ethical and functional. The Bangladeshi women who make it receive fair wages, annual profit dividends and retirement funds. It can hold up to 135 pounds, is waterproof on the inside, and comes with two loaves of Knead Bakehouse’s delicious bread. $68. Knead Bakehouse, 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com
Diaspora Co.’s Big Trio Diaspora Co. partners with small farms across India, eliminating the many intermediaries between farmers and consumers. The Rabbit RBT Electric result? Fresh single-origin spices Corkscrew for you and fair and equitable This electric corkscrew takes compensation for farmers. A all the work out of opening a gorgeous illustrated gift box bottle of wine. Firmly place the comes with Pragti turmeric, corkscrew over the cork, hold Guntur Sannam chile powder the bottle steady, and let the and Aranya peppercorn. $54. Rabbit do the rest. $100. Amazon, Diaspora Co., diasporaco.com amazon.com 28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Vida Ocean Oyster Bowl You can never have too much stylish serveware – it puts an exclamation point on a home cook’s hard work. This durable, oyster-shaped bowl would be ideal for serving a cooked seafood dish or filled with ice to serve chilled shrimp and shucked oysters. $54. Lusso, 165 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.725.7205, shoplusso.com November 2020
RED HOT RIPLETS SHOWER CURTAIN PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Red Hot Riplets Shower Curtain Bring ultimate joy to the Red Hot Riplets fan in your life (or yourself) with this masterpiece, sure to complement any bathroom decor. $60. Old Vienna of St. Louis, oldviennallc.com
These are challenging times for our friends in the food and beverage industry and Sauce is doing all we can to help. From keeping St. Louis updated on all the industry news through our continued editorial coverage to lending a helping hand to restaurants, bars and more through our Sauce Supports initiative. Look up your favorite restaurants to see their current offerings on our Covid-19 Restaurant Guide - open dining rooms, curbside service, delivery, and more. Visit saucemagazine.com/restaurant-guide.
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when you want to spend
$100+ by meera nagarajan
Fortune Cookie Gold Locket This fortune cookie-shaped pendant hides a tiny scroll inside. Write a message to your loved one when ordering or leave it blank so they can write their own mantra and keep it close to their heart. $146. Lusso, 165 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.725.7205, shoplusso.com
Wine Cowboy Framed Print Gift a piece of Sauce Magazine to your dearest wine enthusiast. This illustration ran in our 2018 Guide to Drinking and is still one of our favorites. $151. Society6, society6.com/vidhyanagarajan
Scotchy, Scotch, Scotch Box We aren’t experts on scotch, but we know the folks at Brennan’s are. Trust their recently launched delivery service, Brennan’s Booze and Snacks, to put together a killer box of bottles the Ron Burgundy in your life will appreciate. $200. Brennan’s Booze and Snacks, boozeandsnacks.com
Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Kettle This elegant kettle would be eye catching on any counter. Its small pot heats especially quickly, while the gooseneck spout pours the water in a steady stream. Plus, it’s adjustable, so you can heat your water to the exact degree. $155. Teatopia, 2606 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.553.9402, teatopiastl.com
Zojirushi Neuro Fuzzy Rice Cooker Try one steaming bowl of rice from a Zojirushi Neuro Fuzzy rice cooker and never question the price tag again. Responsive heat sensors and specific settings ensure every grain comes out perfect every time. $220. Zojirushi, shop.zojirushi.com
November 2020
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PARTNER CONTENT
Gift a taste of home
GRAZEBOARDS STL GrazeBoards StL is St. Louis' original luxury graze board delivery company. They specialize in using local, small batch and sustainable companies on their boards. All GrazeBoards come perfectly packaged in sturdy boxes for easy, neat transport and gift wrapped for perfect gift giving. grazeboardsstl.com
BARREL AGED BBQ SAUCE BeerSauce Shop's Barrel Aged BBQ Sauce is aged for three months in Whiskey Barrels. Gift cards are available in any denomination and come with a bonus gift card. BeerSauce's Craft Beer Advent Calendar features 24 Craft Beers a surprise a day! beersauceshop.com
OWNER'S RESERVE CUVÉE Noboleis Vineyards Owner's Reserve Cuvée has dark fruit and earthy notes with tannins and a smooth finish. Winning gold medals and earning 90-point ratings at both the 2020 Sunset International Wine Competition and the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition, the Owner’s Reserve Cuvée is a musttry at Noboleis! noboleisvineyards.com
SUGAREE COOKIE BOX FAZIO'S OVEN-READY TOASTED RAVIOLI Family-owned and operated since 1902, Fazio’s proudly produces quality Italian products using only the freshest of ingredients. Each batch of ravioli follows the same time-honored recipe we’ve used for five generations. Try it for yourself and taste a true St. Louis tradition. faziosbakery.com
This holiday, give a gift they’ll be fighting over - the Sugaree Cookie Box! Eight different butter cookies in every box and with three choices of sizes to choose from you can feed any crowd. Don’t forget to save one for Santa! sugareebaking.com
THE PASTA HOUSE CO. FAMOUS SALAD DRESSING
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The Pasta House Co. Famous Salad Dressing makes a great gift for any out-of-towner longing for home or anyone who appreciates dressings made in-house with high-quality premium red wine vinegar, olive oil and spices. Make our Famous Pasta House Salad at your next gathering and pick up a bottle at your local retailers or at pastahouse.com November 2020
PARTNER CONTENT
HOMESTEAD PEACH HARD CIDER The newest release from Brick River Cider Co., blends peach and apple flavors, and is soft and sweet like biting into a fresh peach. Available at fine area retailers including Total Wine & More, Randall’s Wine & Spirits, Friar Tuck’s, Fields Foods and select Schnucks or at brickrivercider.com
TAKE-HOME CUPCAKE KIT Cupcake Fetish is helps you create sweet memories. Available in four or six cupcake packages, kits include vanilla buttercream, sprinkles and a variety of seasonal toppers for your decorating pleasure. Grab & Go 6" (15 servings) seasonal-themed cakes also available. Pre-orders available starting Nov. 15 at cupcakefetish4u.com
G&W FABULOUS FIVE GIFTBOX G&W Meat & Bavarian Style Sausage is the place to find the perfect gift for the holidays. Now featuring six flavors of Landjager beefsticks in an assortment of holiday gift sets ranging from $12 to $75. The Fabulous Five Giftbox ($50) includes five G&W Landjager packages, two cheese rounds, crackers and holiday candy. gwsausage.com
SMOKEMASTERS PICK GOURMET GIFT BOX Handcrafted in the hills of the Ozarks, all of the smoked and cured meats from Burgers' Smokehouse are guaranteed to delight any foodie on your list! Call 800-624-5426 or order at smokehouse.com
DOGWOOD WINE AND SPIRITS Serving the St. Louis area for over 20 years, Dogwood Wine and Spirits has the perfect bottles for gifting any drinker in your life, like Breckenridge Port Cask Finish Whiskey, Marisco “The Favour” Sauvignon Blanc and the popular Original Sin Black Widow Cider. dogwoodstl.com November 2020
WINE GIFT BOX Wild Olive Provisions wine gift boxes contain two bottles of highly awarded Australian wine from sustainable, family-owned wineries for under $50. wildoliveprovisions.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33
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November 2020
MAILING IN THE
HOLIDAYS Holiday travel used to be as easy as jumping on a plane or packing up the family car. This year, a lot of us will be missing the family and friends we would be visiting if not for the pandemic. Staying home for the holidays is certainly a big change for many, but it’s also the perfect opportunity to create new traditions, like sending a box full of cheer packed to the brim with the things you wish you could be enjoying together. Whether you’re shipping goodies to grandma a few counties over or your best friend in another state, here’s what to make and how to package it.
by marianne moore photos by carmen troesser
November 2020
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Cranberry-Orange Biscotti
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November 2020
THE COFFEE BREAK Send your loved ones all the essentials for a nice, long Zoom coffee date: biscotti, flavored coffee syrups and beans. The cookies are best stacked tightly in tall cellophane bags or in decorative holiday boxes. The tighter you can stack them together, the less likely they are to break in transit. Gift any non-perishable liquids like these flavored extracts in large, clear bottles with a tight seal, and make sure to include a favorite local coffee like the Disco Inferno espresso blend from Stringbean Coffee Co.
November 2020
Cranberry-Orange Biscotti 20 COOKIES 4 Tbsp. cold, unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces ¾ cup sugar 2 eggs Zest of 1 orange, about 1 Tbsp. 1 tsp. vanilla extract 2 cups flour 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. Kosher salt 1 cup dried cranberries Turbinado sugar for topping, optional • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. • Using an electric mixer on medium, beat the butter and sugar together until creamy, about 4 minutes. Add the eggs, orange zest and vanilla extract. Mix on low until incorporated and then increase speed to medium, and continue beating until well combined, about 2 minutes. • In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and mix on low speed until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Stir in the dried cranberries. • Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a ball. Use your hands to shape each ball into an 8-inch log. Place the logs on the prepared baking sheet and use your hands to gently and evenly flatten them to about ¾-inch thick. Sprinkle
the logs with turbinado sugar, if desired. • Bake until lightly golden and the center of the logs are almost firm but bounces back when touched, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheet 30 minutes. • Use a sharp knife to cut the logs crosswise on the diagonal into ¾-inch thick biscotti, pressing straight down with the knife rather than sawing. Place the biscotti cut side down on the baking sheet (they should all fit on one sheet). Bake until dry, 12 to 16 more minutes. The centers of the cookies will still be slightly soft, but will crisp as they cool.
Brown SugarCinnamon Coffee Syrup ABOUT 2 CUPS 1 cup sugar 1 cup water ½ cup brown sugar 1 cinnamon stick 1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise • In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar, water and brown sugar. Stirring constantly, bring to a gentle boil, then stop stirring and reduce the heat to low. Let simmer 15 minutes, then remove from heat and let cool. • Pour the syrup into a gift bottle, then add the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean and seal tightly.
Vanilla Coffee Syrup ABOUT 2 CUPS 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise • In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar and water. Stirring constantly, bring to a gentle boil, then stop stirring and reduce the heat to low. Let simmer 15 minutes, then remove from heat and let cool. • Pour the syrup into a gift bottle, then add the vanilla bean and seal tightly.
Peppermint Coffee Syrup ABOUT 2 CUPS 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 2 tsp. peppermint extract • In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar and water. Stirring constantly, bring to a gentle boil, then stop stirring and reduce the heat to low. Let simmer 15 minutes, then remove from heat. As the syrup cools, stir in the peppermint extract. • Pour the syrup into a gift bottle and seal tightly.
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SHIPPING TIPS
Perfectly packed and properly shipped, your treats will be welcomed with opened arms — and mouths. 1 Before packing, make sure jams, syrups or other non-perishable liquids are tightly sealed in sturdy jars or bottles. Place each in a gift bag and tie with a ribbon, then wrap the bottles or jars in bubble wrap and seal inside an air-filled, zip-top bag. 2 Separate crisp cookies or crackers from moist baked goods to maintain their texture. Wrap cookies or crackers in airtight plastic or in zip-top plastic bags with crumpled wax paper in between. To prevent them from breaking, create a cushion on the bottom of the container with crumpled wax paper or parchment, and then layer the packaged cookies. 3 Always use sturdy, unused corrugated shipping boxes and line them with plastic wrap or a large garbage bag. Pack heavier items at the bottom of the box, making sure there is cushioning between and two to three inches of packing material on all sides of the box. Fill in the box with additional crumpled newspaper, bubble wrap, foam peanuts or air-popped popcorn and leave no empty space at the top, or items may shift.
Blue Cheese
“COokies”
4 Be sure to include a note on the best way to handle the food once it arrives, along with any holiday wishes. Use packing tape to securely close the box. Fill out your labels with a waterproof pen. Mark the carton “perishable” and ship it via the fastest means possible.
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Mulled Wine Kit
FIRESIDE NIGHTCAP Send family and friends this mulled wine kit and blue cheese “cookies” for a post-holiday deep breath. Tie the jar of wine-mulling spices with ribbon and attach a gift tag with these instructions: “Combine a bottle of your favorite red wine and this mulling spice mix in a pot. Heat on medium until nearly boiling, but DO NOT boil. Heat 30 minutes, then strain the mulled wine and return it to the pot. Add an optional ¼ cup dark rum, if desired, and serve!” Nothing beats a cozy fire and perfect nibbles with warm, spicy wine.
November 2020
¼ cup palm sugar 3 Tbsp. dried orange peel 2 Tbsp. whole cloves 3 cinnamon sticks, broken in half 3 pieces star anise • Combine all ingredients in a bowl and stir. Spoon into a decorative jar.
Blue Cheese “Cookies” ABOUT 20 CRACKERS ½ cup pecan halves, toasted ¾ cup flour 4 Tbsp. very cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 3 oz. strong blue cheese such as Stilton, crumbled • Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. • In a food processor, pulse the pecans until finely ground. Add the flour and pulse briefly to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the cheese and process until the dough comes together and is well combined. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface. • Shape the dough into a 2½-inchwide log. Wrap the log with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 8 hours. • Cut the chilled log into ¼-inchthick slices. Transfer the slices to 2 baking sheets and bake until golden brown and firm in the center, rotating the sheets halfway through cooking, 25 to 35 minutes total. The crackers should not get too dark around the edges. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
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cocktail hour snack pack Savory-sweet bacon jam paired with rich, buttery crackers and the crunch of mixed nuts is a match made in cocktail snack heaven. Use parchment paper envelopes or sturdy bakery bags to package the crackers and nuts. Be sure to avoid overfilling, since the crackers will break if too tightly packed. Spoon the bacon jam into a glass jar, pop in a clear gift bag and tie with a cute ribbon. All that’s missing is the dirty martini!
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Hazelnut-Gruyere Crackers ABOUT 80 CRACKERS 1¼ cups flour ½ cup hazelnut flour 1¼ tsp. kosher salt ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1½ cups small grated gruyere 1 egg, room temperature 2 Tbsp. heavy cream Flaky salt like Maldon, for topping • In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, hazelnut flour, salt and pepper. With a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal, then stir in the gruyere. Add the egg and cream and mix with a fork until ingredients are fully incorporated and the dough comes together. • Divide dough in two. Using plastic wrap, form each half into a compact square log, about 5½-inches long and 1½ inches wide. Freeze until thoroughly chilled, at least 45 minutes to 1 hour. The dough will keep in the freezer up to two months. If made in advance and frozen, allow the dough to thaw slightly before slicing. • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. • Using a sharp knife slice the dough into ¹⁄8 -inch thick squares using even, downward pressure. Turn the log after each cut to keep its shape. If the dough breaks when sliced, let thaw slightly before continuing. • Space the squares evenly on the parchment-lined baking sheets.
Using a pastry brush, lightly brush each square with water and sprinkle with the flaky salt. • Bake until crisp and golden around the edges, 12 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.
Spiced and Sweet Mixed Nuts 4 CUPS
Bacon Jam 1½ lbs. bacon, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces 2 medium yellow onions, diced 3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled ¾ cup brewed coffee ½ cup apple cider vinegar ½ cup packed dark brown sugar ¼ cup maple syrup
½ cup dark brown sugar 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. smoked paprika ½ tsp. cayenne pepper ½ tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp. Old Bay seasoning 1 egg white 4 cups (about 1¼ lbs.) whole nuts, preferably almonds, pecans and cashews
• In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the bacon is lightly browned, about 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels and set aside. • Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the skillet and return to heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the coffee, vinegar, brown sugar and maple syrup. Stirring and scraping up browned bits from the skillet with a wooden spoon, let boil about 2 minutes. Add the bacon and stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium and cook uncovered until liquid is syrupy, 1 to 1½ hours. • Let the bacon jam cool completely, then transfer to a glass jar and seal tightly.
• Preheat the oven to 300 degrees and grease a rimmed baking sheet with oil or nonstick cooking spray. • In a medium bowl, stir together the sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne, chili powder, black pepper and Old Bay. Set aside. • In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg white until slightly foamy. Stir in the spice mixture until a smooth batter forms. Fold in the nuts until evenly coated. • Spread the nuts in a single even layer on the prepared baking sheet and bake until toasted, about 25 minutes. Let cool, stirring every few minutes to prevent sticking. Once completely cool, break up any remaining clumps. Transfer to gift packaging, making sure the nuts are not warm or they may get soggy.
ABOUT 1½ CUPS
November 2020
THE SWEET FINISH Chocolate-Covered Luxardo Cherries
These precious chocolate-covered cherries should be reserved for those who made the good list this year.
32 CHERRIES 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. light corn syrup 1 Tbsp. room-temperature, unsalted butter 1 Tbsp. water 32 Luxardo cherries 1 cup dark chocolate melts • In a medium bowl, stir together the sugar, corn syrup, butter and water until a dough forms. Transfer to a work surface lightly dusted with confectioners’ sugar and knead until smooth and no longer sticky, dusting the dough with more sugar as necessary. • Spoon 1 teaspoon dough into your palm and flatten into a 1-inch round. Place a cherry in the center and wrap the dough around the cherry, pressing with your fingers to seal. Gently roll between your palms until smooth. Repeat the process with the remaining dough and cherries. • Transfer the wrapped cherries to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Let sit uncovered until hard and dry, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. • In a medium glass bowl, microwave the chocolate on low heat until melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Check the bowl every 30 seconds to make sure you don’t scorch the chocolate. • Using a fork, dip each cherry into the chocolate, then lift and let excess chocolate drip back into the bowl. Transfer the coated cherries to a parchment-lined baking sheet and let sit until the chocolate is hard and dry, about 1 hour.
November 2020
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PARTNER CONTENT
Friends and spouses keep us going day after day, but we don’t want to break the bank when we know we’re going to end up drinking it together. Here are a couple ways to show you care while not making it all about how often you can pop the cork. If you are seeking great value for easy drinking, the single-malt, 10-year-old Aerstone Land Cask and Sea Cask were both recently released and are just shy of $30 per bottle. The Land calls on smoke and structure while the Sea exudes sweet caramel and oak. Another option is to grab a bottle of fastest growing blended malt: Monkey Shoulder, which is more of an “everyday whiskey” that has plenty of flavor while still mixing well in a classic Sazerac and is only around $35. The barley brings balanced sweetness and spice ready to be a playful workhorse in your classic cocktails.
WHISKEY GIFTING MADE EASY Winter is coming, and knowing we have the perfect gifts to make our friends and family happy all through the New Year helps keep us warm and cozy. What can keep the people we love warm and cozy, though? Scotch whiskey, of course. The long history of distilling and perfect barrel aging makes for a toasty, fuzzy feeling from the first sip to the last drop. Here are some gift ideas at every price point.
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Have a friend who loves bourbon, but wants to venture into the land of Scotland? Gift them a bottle of the Glenfiddich 14-year Bourbon Barrel Reserve at less than $50. Aged in reused bourbon barrels and finished in new charred American oak, its fruit nature and signature tannins call out to bourbon drinkers while keeping true to its Scottish heritage. [1] Try: Quintessential Dining & Nightlife Buy: Dogwood Spirits
Buying for the boss this year? Balvenie 14-year Caribbean Cask and Glenfiddich 18-year Reserve might be your ticket. Although you want to show sophistication, you don’t want to make them feel you may be overpaid. These next two whiskeys will show off a sense of style and grace without saying, “I have more money than I need.” A whiskey to show off your knowledge while not alienating the group should be balanced yet tantalizing. The $70 Balvenie 14-year Caribbean Cask checks all the right boxes. Its spice
and wood heat the front of your palate, then fall into a wonderful finish of caramel and baked fruit. Glenfiddich 18-year Reserve is the most awarded whiskey in its class and still comes in at less than $100. The front-forward spice flavors are met with buttery toffee notes that will make you miss grandma’s Christmas cookies. This easy drinker with a silkysmooth body will keep you guessing on each sip. [2] Try: Stone Turtle Restaurant and Bar Buy: Randall’s Wine & Spirits
Celebrating special anniversaries or retirements this year? These call for a whiskey that creates lasting memories. The Balvenie 17-year Double Wood commemorates David Stewart’s 50th anniversary working for Balvenie Distillery as the longest serving malt master in Scottish whiskey history. One of the world’s most decorated malt masters, this whiskey represents Stewart’s lifelong achievements. With dark fruits and silky texture, this is a great bottle to toast to achievement. While the cost averages $130, it is worth the special moment in time it provides with your mentor, relative or close friend. If you’re truly looking for that “wow” factor in gifting whiskey, try Glenfiddich’s 21-year Reserva. This American oak-aged Scotch is finished in Demerara Rum Casks, and the result is astounding. Light orange zest, creme brule and marzipan make it an excellent candidate for a high-end celebratory daiquiri. With two parts Glenfiddich 21-year, one part fresh lime juice and one part simple syrup, this drink will change the way you think about cocktailing. It pairs phenomenally with fresh stone fruit desserts and is a testament to what time and direction can do for a whiskey. At about $215, this is a true showstopper. [3] Try: Live! By Loews Buy: The Wine and Cheese Place
November 2020
P O P P I N’
by h e at h e r h u g h e s h u f f // p h o t o s b y izaiah johnson
BOTTLES There’s no such thing as a celebration without bubbles, but those bubbles don’t all have to be the same. Beer drinkers deserve the chance to saber bottles too, and there’s no reason fine ciders can’t be enjoyed in a coup. This holiday, you’re more likely to find a weird pét-nat in our wine chiller than a pricey bottle from Champagne. Here are 10 celebratory sparklers that prove that in this century’s roaring ’20s, we can enjoy a little more variety than Gatsby. November 2020
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Tilquin à L’ancienne Oude Gueuze
Parker’s Table beer buyer Chris Chartrand is very excited about this blended lambic. He said the oude gueuze style, made exclusively in one small Belgian river valley, has become so hyped that Parker’s is lucky to get a couple of cases a year. It’s a great holiday beer. “This one has kind of a tart green apple cider quality, but also that musty, funky, leathery quality,” which is typical of the style, Chartrand said. $24. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
Côme Isambert Cosmobulle Blanc
We want this pét-nat, a blend of chenin blanc and pineau d’Aunis, on our holiday table. “It’s super low-key and effervescent,” said Civil Alchemy co-founder Ian VanDam. “It’s got notes of honeysuckle, white pepper and apple brandy.” Civil Alchemy’s new online ordering platform makes picking up a bottle even simpler; purchases are currently available for pickup only, with local delivery coming soon. $22. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com
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Progetto Calcarius Ca Frecciabomb Pét-Nat
The pétillant naturel (or “pét-nat”) process produces naturally effervescent wines sans additives like extra sugar or yeast. This version is made with 100% bombino bianco grapes, indigenous to Puglia, Italy. “It’s definitely yeasty,” said Cork & Rind marketing manager Scott Stieven. “It’s going to have some big citrus notes as well as orange blossom in the background.” A skin-contact wine made with no filtering or added sulfur, it’s a great example of the funky bottles Cork & Rind has become known for carrying. $32. Cork & Rind, 555 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.896.4404, corkandrind.com
Tag + Jug Cider Co. Brut Perry
Tag + Jug Cider Co. uses winemaking techniques to produce a range of unique ciders aged in French oak. Parker’s Table owner John Parker recommended the rich and floral Brut Perry pear cider. “Bright, fresh, a little tart on the edge, it has a nice fruit to it without being sweet and a touch of effervescence,” he said. $24. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
Side Project Brewing Blended 2020
Maplewood’s Side Project Brewing has an international reputation for its luxe barrel-aged beers. Co-owner and brewer Cory King recommended the gueuzeinspired Blended 2020 as “a good counterpart to Champagne, especially for a beer drinker.” It’s a blend of three different Missouri wild ales fermented in French oak, made just to be combined for this beer. The labor-intensive method produces a dry, light and highly carbonated pour that will leave you saying, “à votre santé.” $50. Side Project Brewing, sideprojectbrewing.com
November 2020
3 Fonteinen Oude Kriek
If fruited lambics make you think of Lindemans’ sweet, soda-y brews, think again. “Kriek means they add cherries in the barrel,” Chartrand said, but “oude means it’s refermented, so it’s drier, and more of that funky quality comes out.” The tart, red fruit-forward flavor makes this a great substitute for a brut rosé. $18. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
November 2020
Side Project Brewing Oude du Blé
The Oude du Blé is a Missouri wheat saison inspired, like many Side Project beers, by wine. Styled on white Burgundy, the light farmhouse ale is aged for an extended time in French oak barrels previously filled with chardonnay. “A lot of wine drinkers really enjoy that one because of the oak influence and white wine aspects,” King said. We’re also into the bottle’s party-level carbonation. $40. Side Project Brewing, sideprojectbrewing.com
Las Jaras Sparkling Carignan
“A fun little sparkling,” according to Stieven, this California bottle is made with 100% red carignan grapes. The medium-bodied natural wine pours a rose-gold color and features fine bubbles perfect for a party. Notes of strawberry and peach are underscored by a hint of almond and a little chalky minerality. $50. Cork & Rind, 555 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.896.4404, corkandrind.com
Domaine Sicera Florentin
This all-native French cidre de Normandie is classy AF. Domaine Sicera has been producing cider in Normandy since the 1800s. The Florentin has a beautiful pale orange hue and looks like a bottle of expensive wine. “It has a little richness, a touch of sweetness but is still elegant and floral and earthy,” Chartrand said. The natural fermentation process used to produce the cider also lends “an almost bitter quality” he noted, adding an additional layer of complexity. $15. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
Sierra Nevada Strainge Beast Hard Kombucha Offer something completely unexpected this holiday with a ginger, lemon and hibiscus hard kombucha from Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. “It’s definitely got that yeasty, vinegar flavor people associate with kombucha,” VanDam said. Who are we to say that kombucha doesn’t belong in a Champagne bucket? 12 ounces: $3. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com
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salads, sandwiches, burgers, steaks and more. Just recently, Sunday brunch is being offered again featuring one of the best “loaded” bloody marys in town, along with plenty of delicious breakfast foods like a creole slider, big Texas french toast, frittata, salmon lox BLT and more. 26 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton, 314.863.8400, sevengablesinn.com
THE GRAND HALL AT ST. LOUIS UNION STATION HOTEL-CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON
If your travel plans went out the window when Covid hit, we know the feeling. If you’d still like to do something fun this fall without leaving the area, these hotels have some spectacular amenities and excellent on-site restaurants to help you make the most of 2020.
HOTEL SAINT LOUIS If you need an escape from daily life (don’t we all), Hotel Saint Louis is the perfect place for a “stay-cation.” The elegant restaurant, Union 30, features innovative takes on favorite local comfort food, with Form Skybar serving plenty of eclectic small plates and craft cocktails, stunning views of the St. Louis skyline, and a heated rooftop pool. You’ll love this historic venue, which is also the first Marriott Autograph Collection hotel in St. Louis. With over 50 suites – most with balconies – and a full-service luxury spa and salon, this hotel is a destination like no other. 705 Olive St., St. Louis, 844.979.1032, hotelsaintlouis.com
PORTER’S STEAKHOUSE AT DOUBLETREE HOTEL COLLINSVILLE From the warm, sophisticated interior to the seasonally focused menu, Porter’s Steakhouse is anything but typical. Approachable and relaxed, this
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restaurant is focused on delivering an exceptional dining experience perfect for an evening out or your holiday parties, with private and semi-private rooms available for groups. Porter’s has been voted consistently by Open Table as one of the best steakhouses in America, and the menu caters to everyone in your group, with everything from dry-aged steaks and fresh seafood to robust salads and flavorful soups. 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive, Collinsville, 618.345.2400, porterscollinsville.com
SEVEN GABLES INN With its Tudor-style architecture and European bed and breakfast vibe, going to the newly renovated Seven Gables Inn is like visiting Europe without a passport. This hidden oasis in Clayton was built in 1926 and has a gorgeous courtyard reminiscent of the English countryside. The restaurant, Seven, features a delectable new seasonal menu, with items like tuna tartare, soups and
THREE SIXTY AT HILTON ST. LOUIS AT THE BALLPARK Three Sixty Rooftop Bar & Restaurant continues to impress visitors to the city and locals alike with its panoramic views and award-winning cocktails and food. Currently featuring holiday-themed cocktails in a festive environment ideal for the holidays, this hip restaurant atop the Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark finds itself on a lot of social feeds. The staff is working hard to provide a safe place for small gatherings of social and business parties. With the unparalleled views of downtown St. Louis, this spot needs to be on everyone’s list. 1 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.241.8439, 360-stl.com
PHOTO BY J. CORBETT FOR HOTEL SAINT LOUIS
COMPILED BY LAUREN HEALEY
The historical romance of travel and dining is thriving in The Grand Hall at Union Station. The majestic design of the space is unique to St. Louis. Once the busiest rail station in the world, the 60-foot bar serves up railroadthemed cocktails, local craft brews and delicious small plates. Often busy with weddings and celebrations, check ahead to ensure they are open for your arrival. Be sure to glance up at the vaulted ceilings for their nightly awardwinning light shows, which they have 15 different vignettes and counting. 1820 Market St., St. Louis, 314.621.5262, stlouisunionstation.com
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November 2020
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
RAFIA ZAFAR
… I have a body memory of cooking with her and sitting with her. But my mother wanted to be a modern woman in the ’50s. She thought convenience was the best. … So my sister and I got into macrobiotic food.”
AUTHOR AND FOODWAYS SCHOLAR
“ W e wo u l d c u t s c h o o l s o m e t i m e s and hang out in the East
Village and chew brown rice a hundred times. […] Talk about foodways – eating like that meant I was sophisticated and a hippie or whatever I thought. But just different, signaling that I was different from my parents.”
At some point in your childhood, you probably came to associate Black agricultural scientist George Washington Carver with peanuts, perhaps learning (incorrectly) that he was the “father of peanut butter.” But did you know Carver’s research extended beyond the laboratory? Carver connected the dots between farmers and domestic kitchens, making him an early advocate for what we now call farmto-table cooking; he also studied the relationship between farming practices and soil quality, leading him to promote sustainable farming practices a full century before that term became commonplace.
“ W h e n I s ay ‘ f o o d way s , ’ f o o d way s b a s i c a l ly m e a n s
everything that has to do with food: eating it, procuring it, growing it, serving
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who lived in a loft in SoHo, before SoHo became SoHo. And they told me about this store [then called the Cheese Store, later to become Dean & DeLuca] opening up downstairs, and they were really excited because there’d be a food store. They said, ‘They’ll need somebody to work there, why don’t you apply?’ And that’s how I ended up as – I may not have been the first, but certainly, the second [employee].” “Sometimes people l i t e r a l ly b r o u g h t t h e i r f o o d way s [ f r o m A f r i c a ] . If
it, what people think about, all the cultural stuff around food.” “ I f y o u l o o k at c i v i l r i g h t s , what were many of John
Lewis’ friends doing? They were sitting at lunch counters. They were sitting in for the right to have greasy grilled cheese sandwiches and Coca-Cola. You think, ‘Well, who cares about greasy sandwiches?’ But it’s the principle of
the thing: It should be every American’s right to have terrible food at a roadside diner, if they so desire.” “My sister and I like to s ay w e l e a r n e d t o c o o k i n s e l f - d e f e n s e . My mother was not
a cook. She grew up in Michigan, her mother was a fantastic farm wife cook. … My father’s mother – she’d make collard greens, I’d have to drink the pot liquor.
you had really tightly curled hair, people wove in rice grains to bring them to the New World. Think about it – you’re being kidnapped, you have no idea where you’re going, ‘I better bring something I can eat and grow.’ So people hid away rice. The [slavers’] ships were … provisioning from African growers and markets. The watermelons, the beans, all kinds of things they were able to bring over, some of which then people were able to start growing.” “Until the end of the Civil Wa r , a n d u n t i l a f t e r wa r d ,
legally, [enslaved people of African descent] were prevented from reading and writing. You could not become literate. So even if you were the best chef in the world, your avenue to publishing a cookbook would have been very limited.” November 2020
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
This surprising side of the famed botanist’s work is just one of the intriguing stories about Black food history Rafia Zafar, professor of English, African and African-American Studies and American Culture Studies at Washington University, reveals in her 2019 book Recipes For Respect: African American Meals and Meaning. Here Zafar discusses how food is political and her early experiences with food, including cooking with her grandmother in Harlem and her job as one of famed New York City food emporium Dean & DeLuca’s first employees. – Liz Wolfson
“I went to art school [in N e w Y o r k C i t y ] , so I had friends
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
LION'S CHOICE BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH
It seems that everyone in town, from casual diners to the city’s most-lauded culinary masters, loves Lion’s Choice. And though the roast beef sandwich is the classic order for most, the Italian beef sandwich - roast beef with giardiniera peppers served on a French baguette - is generally agreed to be the most slept-on dish.
Tradition has been central to the Lion’s Choice brand since chemical engineer Marv Gibbs left his job at Monsanto
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to start the restaurant in 1967. Gibbs was looking for a more stable job and wagered that the emerging fast food industry would be a safe bet. For a menu, he decided to serve something he already knew people loved, because it was a family favorite: roast beef. Over 50 years later, much of the menu remains the same: roast beef sandwiches, hand-cut fries, soda, soft-serve ice cream. When custard cones joined the menu in 1972, they cost 15 cents. Now, they’re 25 cents. “We’re definitely not keeping up with inflation on those cones,” Kupstas mused, laughing. It’s part of what gives the restaurant something of an old-school vibe.
This home-cooked feel has attracted a number of local chefs to collaborate with the restaurant on special menu items like Qui Tran and Nudo House’s roast beef pho and James Beard Award winner Gerard Craft’s special loaded fries dish. Mike Johnson of Hi-Pointe Drive-In created the special Hi-ons Choice Burger, a burger stuffed with roast beef and topped with Provel cheese, fries and Lion’s Choice seasoning. “Lion’s Choice is our favorite fast food restaurant ever, probably,” Johnson said. “They’re kind of like an inspiration for us. I look up to them - they’re good guys, and their food’s awesome.”
In addition to these collaborations, the past few years have seen some rebranding efforts and new initiatives, from new logos and merchandise collaborations with St. Louis’ Arch Apparel to large-scale restaurant redesigns and a new emphasis on items that comport with current eating trends. Recently, Lion’s Choice opened five locations in Kansas City and doesn’t plan to stop there, according to Kupstas. He sees the chain as a potential major player in the fast food industry and wants people from Omaha to Indianapolis to have access to this hometown favorite. In the meantime, though, there are 33 Lion’s choice locations waiting with open arms.
Lion’s Choice, multiple locations, lionschoice.com
November 2020
PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
From sauce combinations to sandwich size, most Lion’s Choice fans have had their go-to orders locked in for a long time. It was something that surprised CEO Michael Kupstas when he joined the company just over three years ago. “I came and worked a shift and realized that nobody looked at the menu board when ordering,” he said. But that shouldn’t have caught him off guard - even Kupstas keeps his favorite meal on the tip of his tongue. It’s an original roast beef sandwich with Swiss, horseradish and a side of au jus. And fries. And some of his wife’s fries.
Lion’s Choice’s menu is pretty simple, but many items are prepared fresh daily, which is unique for a fast food chain. Fries are cut and then cooked in a three-step process: They’re brined, blanched and, finally, deep-fried. Beef is roasted for three to three-and-a-half hours until medium-rare.
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