November 2021

guide to the

H0LiDAYS cookies from missouri baking co., p. 36

November 2021 SAUCE MAGAZINE S T. L O U I S ’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A R Y A U T H O R I T Y // S A U C E M A G A Z I N E . C O M // saucemagazine.com F R E E , N O V EI M BER 2 0 21I 1

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November 2021

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NOVEMBER 2021 • VOLUME 21, ISSUE 9 Skip the

turkey.

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Adam Rothbarth Lauren Healey Oyster dressing is the most superior form of Meera Nagarajan dressing.

Michelle Volansky Mary Andino Jonathan Gayman, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Sean Netzer, Adam Rothbarth, Dressing and Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson stuffing can both get out ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace of here! What ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Angie Rosenberg even are they?

EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde Nobody knows!

LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Hannah Freiberg, Nick Messina

PUBLISHER What’s your EXECUTIVE EDITOR Thanksgiving MANAGING EDITOR meal hot take?

DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Turkey is good, actually.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2021– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Mashed cauliflower is not the worst.

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 November 2021

contents N OV E M B E R 2 02 1

editors' picks

features

7 EAT THIS

13

Braised short rib at Noto Italian Restaurant

by lauren healey 8 DRINK THIS Cantina Furlani Altopiano Rosso

by sean netzer 10 EAT, READ, LOVE Books we love right now

by adam rothbarth

THE SAUCE GIFT GUIDE Foodie gifts at every price point by meera nagarajan

COVER DETAILS MISSOURI BAKING CO. COOKIE BOX A cookie box from Missouri Baking Co. lends a sweet, festive note to any winter holiday gathering. Learn more on p. 36.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

22

TOO HOT TO HANDLE Hot sauces to gift by adam rothbarth 26

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.

Apple pie from The Smokehouse Market, p. 13

TAKE IT AWAY, THANKSGIVING by liz wolfson

last bite 32 WHAT I DO Todd Boyman of Hungry Planet

by meera nagarajan 34 LANDMARK Gus’ Pretzels

by adam rothbarth 36 COOKIE COLLECTION Holiday cookie box from Missouri Baking Co.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

by liz wolfson

November 2021

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November 2021

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

Eat This

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Pizza may be the obvious choice at Noto Italian Restaurant, but the incredibly tender braised short rib should not be missed. The beef is marinated overnight in honey, salt, garlic and thyme and then braised with seasonal fruits. After resting, the juices are reduced with red wine to make a sweet, sticky sauce. The melt-in-yourmouth meat sits atop creamy polenta and is served alongside grilled broccolini; it’s all drizzled with a savory-sweet gremolata. Chopped parsley gives a bright finish.

Noto Italian Restaurant 5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters, 636.317.1143, notopizza.com

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

DRINK THIS Matteo Furlani of Cantina Furlani produces crisp, fresh wines using only stainless steel to ferment, which accentuates the snappy brightness of their grapes. The Northern Italian winery’s Altopiano Rosso encapsulates everything I love about low-intervention winemaking: It’s low alcohol, fruit-driven and undeniably craveable. This 100% pinot nero (pinot noir) briefly ferments with the grape skins, giving it a beautiful hue and light tannin. Look for notes of crushed raspberry, tart cherry and currant.

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Sean Netzer is co-owner and wine buyer at Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery.

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

Eat, Read, Love

The Nom Wah Cookbook Ever wanted to make the perfect bao at home?

Trying to elevate your dumpling game or sling some delicious scallion pancakes? Between the gorgeous photography, accessible recipes and moving stories, this dim sum bible is a must-have. Gift this to your favorite Chinese food lover and they’ll be inviting you over for a brunch feast in no time to say thank you.

Make a friend some food and they’ll eat well for a day; buy them an awesome cookbook or food-based memoir and they’ll eat and drink dope stuff forever. At least I think that’s how the saying goes. Here are some books that would make great gifts for the foodie in your life.

by A d a m R o t h b a r t h / / p h o t o b y j o n at h a n g ay m a n

Death and Co.: Modern Classic Cocktails I’ve been slowly reading this one cover to cover; it’s so jam-packed with information that you really don’t need much else to build a great bar and become a next-level bartender, even at home. It’s got over 500 recipes, some of which have backstories so you can understand their development. The book also goes deep on the spirits that the staff at revolutionary craft cocktail bar Death and Co. rely on nightly.

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Cork Dork This is a very engaging book by Bianca Bosker, who decided one day to leave her job and spend all of her time trying to understand wine. You’ll be jealous the whole time you’re reading it. Bosker talks about everything here: the sommeliers who spend their lives trying to master wine, the rich buyers who hunt it down, the academics and scientists who study it, and the diners who order it. If you’ve ever fantasized about becoming a wine expert and wondered what it would take to get there, then this book is for you.

November 2021

Cool Beans

Falastin

A whole book about beans! From the dining editor of The Washington Post! And it’s mostly vegetarian/vegan! For me, Cool Beans is the ultimate cookbook. If you put some time into this one, you’ll come away with some excellent dried bean knowledge and techniques, and you’ll also learn some awesome recipes along the way, from a killer spinach-artichoke dip to an assortment of pastas, stews and tacos. Pro tip: The fava, ricotta and lemon pizza – the sole ’za in this cookbook – is very good.

This is the Middle Eastern cuisine encyclopedia you’ve always wanted; it covers hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, fattoush, shakshuka and everything else you love (or want to try). The spicy roasted potatoes with lemon and herbs is one of my favorite summer dishes.

Cravings Chrissy Tiegen’s Cravings is your favorite home cook’s favorite cookbook. And depending on where you eat, it could be your favorite restaurant’s executive chef’s favorite cookbook.

My partner, who is a linguine and clams expert, says, “Chrissy Tiegen’s is the only linguine and clams recipe I make anymore.” What else do you need to hear?

Crying in H Mart Written by Michelle Zauner, lead singer and songwriter of indie band Japanese Breakfast, Crying in H Mart documents Zauner’s close, if at times fraught, relationship with her mother, who passed away when Zauner was 25. Many of Zauner’s memories of her mother revolve around the meals they shared at home and while visiting family in South Korea. It’s a beautiful testimony to food’s power to connect us with the people we love, even after they’re gone.

Foodheim This cookbook from actor, comedian and home cook Eric Wareheim is first and foremost a great read, full of funny stories and killer recipes.

From orange chicken to beef bourguignon to pasta, Wareheim takes you through some of his personal favorite dishes. Excellent wine and cocktail chapters ensure that you’ll basically be a dinner party-throwing master by the time you finish this one. The photos and art design in this one are amazing, so if you’re a fan of Wareheim (or just of great food and wine), this is totally worth it for the visuals alone.

Heat and Dirt New World Sourdough This much-anticipated bread book from Bryan Ford (you may know him by his Instagram alias, @artisanbryan) is a sourdough primer that will teach you all the techniques, tips and treatments necessary to make awesome bread.

Once you’ve mastered the basics, take it further with his recipes for plantain sourdough, birote, pan Gallego, bagels, ciabatta, rustic olive and Parmesan bread, Jamaican hard dough and so much more.

November 2021

One of my favorite quarantine reads was Heat by Bill Buford, which charts the New Yorker writer’s journey from home cook to internationally trained kitchen professional.

Regardless of your opinion of Mario Batali, you’ll be swept away by this memoir that’s equal parts Batali background, juicy behind-the-scenes of big New York City kitchens and love letter to Italian cuisine (complete with an extended cameo from boisterous Italian butcher Dario Cecchini). I recently started Buford’s great follow-up, Dirt, which takes a similar approach with French food. You must get both.

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THE SAUCE GIFT GUIDE Foodie gifts at every price point by meera nagarajan

when you want to spend

U N D E R

PIE PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; INDO PLATES, BUBBLE SCOOP AND CANDLE PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Pies from the Smokehouse Market Don’t feel shy to bring a pie. The pies made at the Smokehouse Market are magnificent. Delicate, flaky pastry dough filled with luscious fruit is a beautiful gesture to help someone celebrate the holidays. We have always been fans of their deep-dish apple pie, but their other flavors, including blackberry, peach, cherry and pecan, are all winners. $20.

Smokehouse Market, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.3314, smokehousemarket.com

Clementine Mojito Bubble Scoop Shaped like delectable scoops of ice cream, these bath treats scent the water with fresh and bright citrusy notes. They’re the ideal gift for someone who needs a moment of peace and luxury. $6. Maven, 7328 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.600.0939, mavenstl.com

Indo dishware by Al Westcott Gift a little restaurant flair. These stoneware bowls and plates were designed for Nick Bognar’s Indo.

They come in white or green finishes and are roughly 6 inches wide, making them perfect for olives, dips or other appetizers. $18 to $24. Union Studio, 1605 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5398, stlunionstudio.com November 2021

$ 2 5

Morel candles Set the mood for a dinner party with these small, morel-shaped candles. Drop them in a clear, glass votive and scatter around the table for a quirky, cute addition to a tablescape. $6.

Union Studio

Civil Alchemy x Kakao Chocolate This collaboration resulted in seven chocolate bars with unique flavors like rose (semisweet chocolate), lavender (dark chocolate) and Kaldi’s Coffee (extra dark chocolate). They’re made without preservatives or artificial colors and flavors, so the chocolate truly shines. Bonus: There’s no need to wrap these, since the packaging is lovely as-is. $10. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

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when you want to spend

$ 2 5 - $ 5 0

MUGS PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Cocktail gummies These alcoholic gummies are a fun surprise. Each box has a combination of five different cocktail flavors like whiskey sour, gin and tonic, Manhattan or Paloma. They contain 5% alcohol and are made with dried fruit and cocktail ingredients like tequila and bitters. $15 to $28. Urban Matter, 3179 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.769.9349, urbanmatterstl.com

Colli Etruschi extravirgin olive oil This olive oil is versatile. It offers a grassy flavor and slightly spicy finish, with a gorgeous, greenish hue. It’s best used in salad dressing, to finish dishes or simply for dipping fresh bread. $34. Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Clayton, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com November 2021

Abalone plate This eye-catching stoneware dish is a perfect way to serve charcuterie or some cookies.

We love its natural form and muted tone. $48. Holliday, 4600 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.454.5858, shopholliday.com

Jimmy Liu Mugs These whimsical mugs by local ceramicist Jimmy Liu are unlike any other. His bird series features three-dimensional birds that serve as the mugs’ handles and look like scenes out of a Disney movie. $45. Craft Alliance, 5080 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.725.1177, craftalliance.org

Series Six T-shirts A portion of the profits from these T-shirts goes back to the restaurant, so you can support your local favorites while repping one of your go-to spots, including Crown Candy Kitchen, Donut Drive-In and Gus’ Pretzels. $28.

Series Six Co., 26 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, 314.769.9048, seriessixcompany.com

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when you want to spend

$50-$100 Tablet or recipe book stand Made from sustainably sourced wood, hand-carved and highly functional, this is a useful gift for cooks who love to have their recipes nearby while they work in the kitchen. Not only are these stands striking, but purchasing one also helps provide employment, educational opportunities and medical care to artisans in India. $48 to $68.

Zee Bee Market, 3211 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.1000; 7270 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.370.4111, zeebeemarket.com

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Tabletop Fire Pit Filled with obsidian-like fire glass, this tabletop fire pit by local maker Cementage provides plenty of ambiance when a candle simply won’t do. Plus it’s food safe, so go ahead and break out the marshmallows. $78. Urban Matter, 3179 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.769.9349, urbanmatterstl.com

Forno Gentile Traditional Panettone Panettone is a seasonal Italian cake that makes a lovely gift. This one is flecked with raisins and candied orange and lemon peel.

For the first couple of days after opening, eat it fresh. After that, turn it into French toast or bread pudding, or eat it toasted and topped with vanilla ice cream. $55. Ditalia, ditalia.com November 2021

FIREPIT PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

AO&Co. Bottled Cocktails If mixing up cocktails at home sounds like a tall order, opt for these bottled versions instead.

With options ranging from a Corpse Reviver No. 2 to a Negroni to a Vesper, this gift is as easy as open, pour and sip. $60. AO&Co. Market & Café, 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, Facebook: AO&Co. Market & Café

Big O Painkiller cocktail kit Planter’s House co-owner Ted Kilgore puts a local twist on the Painkiller cocktail by using Big O Ginger Liqueur. This kit includes everything you need to make Kilgore’s reinvented classic at home. $85. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com

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November 2021

when you want to spend

$100+

Doug E. Design cutting boards Local woodworker Doug Edmondson makes cutting boards that would look charming on any countertop. Featuring a variety of colors and intricate patterns and made from sustainable lumber, these boards are both beautiful and functional. $220 to $350. Bertarelli Co., 1927 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.4005, bertarellico.com

33 Wine Bar Wine Club With more than 500 wines from all over the world, including small-scale producers with limited distribution, this monthly subscription provides a curated selection of bottles for the oenophile in your life. It’s the gift that keeps on giving. $396 to $1,188 per year. 33 Wine Shop & Bar, 1913 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.9463, 33wine.com

Cheese Club Membership For $10 a month, you can give joy to someone in the form of cheese.

The experts at Parker’s Table will select three cheeses that are cut fresh and packaged when members are ready to come by and pick them up. Gifts for memberships must be paid in advance for a minimum of three months. $120 per year. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Gold Paisley Tablecloth Made by dipping intricately carved wooden blocks into ink and stamping the fabric by hand, each of these cotton tablecloths is truly unique. $136 to $154.

Holliday, 4600 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.454.5858, shopholliday.com

Tour of Italy gift basket Stuffed with everything from artichokes in olive oil and casarecce pasta to Volpi salame and amaretti cookies, this gift basket has everything you need to feel like you’ve been whisked away to the Amalfi Coast. $170.

Ditalia, ditalia.com

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PARTNER CONTENT

Gift a taste of home

CRAFT BEER ADVENT CALENDAR The Calendar is the perfect gift for the craft beer lover in your life. Each box features 24 renowned, unique and special edition brews that will excite even the most seasoned craft beer drinker — without ruining the surprise for each of the 24 days! Order online at beersauceshop.com. Multiple locations

SINK SIDE SOAP BLOCK

SWIRL SANGRIA RED

Swear off dishwashing liquids with their harsh chemicals and cloying synthetic fragrance. Sink Side Soap Block quickly removes grease, dirt, and germs to clean most anything. $16.95, Herbaria, 2016 Marconi Ave., The Hill, herbariasoap.com

Noboleis Vineyards new line of canned sangria, Swirl, is made from 100% real fruit. Swirl Sangria Red is lightly spritzed and packed with elderberry and black cherry for a truly refreshing taste.

Available at fine area retailers including AO&Co. Market, Civil Alchemy, Hi Pointe Drive-In, Hillermann Nursery & Florist, I.B. Nuts, Noboleis Vineyards and Smokehouse Market. drinkswirl.com

PINT OF THE MONTH CLUB Available in Naughty and Nice! Get one pint of Clementine's ice cream per month for an entire year. It’s pretty much the coolest gift on the planet for those who live in St Louis. This card entitles one to come into the shop every month and pick a pint of their choice. Clementine's Naughty and Nice Creamery, multiple locations, clementinescreamery.com

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BAKED GOODS FROM SUGAREE BAKING CO. The finest ingredients for the most important occasions of your life (or Tuesday).

Sugaree Baking Co. uses only the finest, real ingredients to make cakes, pies, and baked goods fit for your most precious celebrations, since 1996. Sugaree Baking Co., 1242 Tamm Ave, Dogtown, sugareebaking.com

November 2021

PARTNER CONTENT

LA LUNA MEZCAL TASTING GIFT PACK Up your gift game this holiday season with a visit to Intoxicology. Their selection of spirits, bitters, barware, books, and vintage glassware is sure to please the home bar enthusiast on your list. Featured-La Luna Mezcal tasting gift pack, Gusano worm salt, copita mezcal cups, history of mezcal book.

Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave, The Grove, intoxicologystl.com

PASTA HOUSE GIFT CERTIFICATES Get a free $20 bonus gift card with the purchase of $100 or more in Pasta House Co. gift certificates through December 25, 2021. Bonus gift cards are available for use January 23, 2022 through February 28, 2022.

Pasta House Co., multiple locations, pastahouse.com

NOBOLEIS RESERVE VIDAL BLANC FAZIO’S OVEN READY TOASTED RAVIOLI Family owned and operated since 1902, Fazio’s proudly produces quality Italian-style products using only the freshest of ingredients. They make their buffalo chicken toasted ravioli with the finest wheat flour and fill it with a blend of chicken, spices, and buffalo-style hot sauce.

Try it yourself and taste a true St. Louis tradition! faziosbakery.com

Noboleis Vineyards Reserve Vidal Blanc is an oak aged, dry white wine made from 100% locally grown grapes.

Buttery notes and a soft finish make this the perfect wine to accompany any holiday meal. Enjoy a bottle with your Thanksgiving Turkey and toast with family and friends! Noboleis Vineyards, 100 Hemsath Rd, Augusta, noboleisvineyards.com

SERENDIPITY ICE CREAM GIFT CARDS

MIGHTY KIND CANNABIS SELTZER

Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream is made with only the finest ingredients available. They're proud to make delicious ice cream that customers love! New location opening in The Grove soon. Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream, 8130 Big Bend Blvd, serendipity-icecream.com

Mighty Kind is a holistic beverage maker dedicated to creating the world’s finest botanical seltzers and cannabis-infused drinks.

Their seltzers are infused with cannabis and organic botanical flavors. Available in multiple flavors including CBD and CBG varieties, great for sipping solo or used as a mixer! bemightykind.com November 2021

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HO TOO

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OT

TO HANDLE

November 2021

BY A DA M ROTH BA RTH

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Whether it’s for the casual spice enthusiast in your life or the most hardcore chile head you know, hot sauce can be an excellent gift. For the heat lover, few things are more exciting than getting a new sauce to try out. With a little bit of planning, you can put together a nice little gift box or just score an interesting bottle to use as a stocking stuffer or small present. These hot sauces are guaranteed to elicit a response, however fiery it may be.

The Trendy Option Fly By Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp Since Fly By Jing started in 2016, it’s swept up foodies and Chinese food lovers alike with its spicy, encompassing flavor and crunchysmooth texture. It’s just a bit tingly and decently spicy. And the jar looks super cool. $16.50. AO&Co., 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, Facebook: AO&Co. Market and Cafe

The Dependable Option Salsa Valentina (the big one) Yeah, it’s fun to open up a package and find the coolest sauce on the street; other times, you just want a huge amount of classic flavor. Keep your friends or family stocked with the good stuff for a long time by gifting them a 34-ounce bottle of Valentina. $3.50. Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.2552, facebook.com/jayinternationalfoods

The Hardcore Option Da Bomb Beyond Insanity Hot Sauce We had to include at least one nuclear option here, and chile freaks agree that Da Bomb hits the mark. It has a literal bomb with a caution sign on the front, which is meant to be your first and last warning that it’s hot as hell. Your most passionate hot sauce lovers will appreciate getting to try this one, but make sure they don’t use more than a drop or two. $15. Hot Sauce Werks, 418 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.395.7290, instagram. com/hotsaucewerks

The Local Options Hot Charlie’s Hot Sauce Local sauce hero Charlie Backer makes

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everything from hot-dusted popcorn to spicy frozen pizza.

His original hot sauce has a Buffalo vibe, making it perfect for wings, pizza, sandwiches and pretty much everything else. $7. Oakville Butcher Block, 4311 Telegraph Road, Oakville, 314.939.1133, oakvillebutcherblock.com

Passenger Chili Crisp This series of spicy chile crisps

by Perennial Artisan Ales owner Phil Wymore is a solid entry into a condiment style that’s blowing up right now. The “hot” version of Passenger finds a deep, smoky umami in its assorted peppers, onion, mushroom powder and Sichuan peppercorns. Spicy, tingly, marvelous. $14. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.447.9463, wineandcheeseplace.com

The Incredible Flavor Option Rancho Gordo Rio Fuego Very Hot Sauce If you’re a bean head, you probably already know about Rancho Gordo, one of the finest purveyors of heirloom beans in the U.S. Don’t sleep on their delicious hot sauce, which brings an incredible depth of flavor (and is fairly spicy). Gift it with a couple packs of their heirloom beans and your recipient will be in heaven. $6. Rancho Gordo, ranchogordo.com

The Can’t-UseEnough Option Bravado Spice Co. Creamy Herb & Jalapeño Bravado has been a big player on the scene since being featured on popular spicy food YouTube show Hot Ones.

You may not want the super spicy bottles featured there (the Ghost Pepper and Blueberry, the Black Garlic Carolina Reaper, and the AKA Miso

Ghost-Reaper), which is fine. We don’t blame you; we like to taste our food too. The Creamy Herb & Jalapeño hot sauce has an unreal herby, earthy, vinegar-forward flavor and isn’t too hot, so you’ll find yourself using it on everything. Which means get a couple of these. Or do a Bravado tasting package with all of the above. $10. Hot Sauce Werks

The (Not So) Secret Option Secret Aardvark Habañero Hot Sauce OK, Secret Aardvark isn’t really a secret; in fact, it’s easily recognized by true hot sauce OGs. That’s probably because it’s extraordinary. It’s one of those sauces that packs a seriously spicy punch but also tastes wonderful and isn’t overwhelmingly salty – it’s the trifecta of fantastic artisan hot sauce. $9. Winslow’s Table, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowstable.com November 2021

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THANKS

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November 2021

SGIVING Whether you’re looking for a festive plate for one, a complete meal that serves 10, or just a fresh, seasonal pie, takeaway specials for the holiday – including several that are entirely plant-based – abound.

BY LI Z W O L FS ● N

cinder house's thanksgiving carryout November 2021

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The Complete Package

Make It Whole

Cinder House

Dalie’s Smokehouse

Cinder House’s Thanksgiving carryout special feeds 10 and features a grilled citrus- and herb-rubbed turkey, as well as sides like three-cheese cauliflower gratin and roasted winter squash with poached cranberries and goat cheese, two salads, apple-cranberry sauce, herbed turkey gravy and two desserts. Orders should be placed by phone by Nov. 18. $385. 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cinderhousestl.com

Cafe La Vie

Hamilton Hospitality

In addition to whole roasted turkey, Hamilton Hospitality is offering nonpoultry mains like rack of lamb and roasted salmon. A la carte sides like spinach salad and roasted cauliflower and carrots are available as well. All menu items serve six; order online at ezregister. com/events/35260 by Nov. 19. Prices vary. hamiltonhospitality.net

Grace has whole turkeys and breasts available precooked or prepped for cooking in your home oven. Sides include bourbon-whipped sweet potatoes with sorghum and toasted mallow and green bean casserole with mushroom gravy and crispy onions; extras items like honey butter rolls and pies are also available.

Order online at ordergraceholiday.com.

Prices vary. 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com

A La Carte Bonanza The Lucky Accomplice

The Lucky Accomplice’s spin on Thanksgiving offers elevated techniques and surprising ingredients and flavors applied to holiday classics. Options for mains include the familiar (turkey breast with gravy) as well as the novel (roasted pork collar with malt soy glaze or smoked cabbage with yogurt sauce).

Sides like sweet potatoes with chile, mushroom juice and maple syrup and the pumpkin ice cream bar dessert echo this balance between comfort

and creativity. Preorder through Nov. 18. Prices vary. 2501 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.6100, theluckyaccomplice.com

Winslow’s Table

Winslow’s Table offers a la carte options for Thanksgiving staples like roasted Buttonwood Farms turkey breasts and thighs, fall vegetable stuffing and roasted carrots prepared with ricotta, pesto and honey. Sides serve three to four people; holiday cookie decorating kits, fresh apple and pumpkin pies and dinner rolls with Rolling Lawns Farm butter are also available. Preorder online by Nov. 11. Prices vary. 7213 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.725.7559, winslowstable.com

Clara B’s Kitchen Table

For those who prefer a holiday brunch, Clara B’s has quiche Lorraine, cinnamon rolls and a smoked salmon platter available for preorder. Other entrée options include a vegetarian stuffed cheese polenta or smoked pork loin, and you can add on sides like roasted butternut squash and corn spoon bread dressing or dessert. Preorder online.

Prices vary. clarabs.com

PHOTOS COURTESY OF CINDER HOUSE

Cafe La Vie, the restaurant inside Clayton’s Le Meridien hotel, has a special Thanksgiving package that feeds up to four. The meal features brined, roasted turkey breast and several sides, including roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce, ciabatta dinner rolls and a 10-inch pumpkin pie. To preorder, call the hotel, visit opentable.com/cafe-la-vie-saint-louis or email cafelavie@lemeridienclayton.com

by Nov. 21. $175. 7730 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, 314.863.0400, cafelaviestlouis.com

Barbecue professionals know meat, so why not turn to them for your Thanksgiving main? Dalie’s has whole smoked turkeys, smoked, bacon-wrapped hams and whole smoked turkey breasts available a la carte, or get a whole turkey or ham as part of a package that includes green bean and sweet potatopeach casseroles and feeds eight to 10 people. Sides are available a la carte as well. Preorder at the restaurant or call

by Nov. 19. Prices vary. 2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, St. Louis, 636.529.1898, daliessmokehouse.com

Grace Meat + Three

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SqWires

plate or a family-style meal that feeds eight to 10 people. Gardein roast turkey will be served with sides like mac ‘n’ cheese, candied yams and green beans and apple or sweet potato pie. Preorder online through Nov. 11. Single plate: $24; familystyle dinner: $250. 4993 Loughborough Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9400, ccsveganspot.com

The menu includes house-made herbed seitan turkey roast with mushroom gravy and sides like radicchio and walnut salad and pumpkin parfaits with cashew-vanilla cream. Warm apple cider and red and white wine are included as well. To order, email caryn@cpbl-stl.com. $75 per person (minimum eight guests). 131 W. Jefferson Ave., Kirkwood, 314.394.2063, cpbl-stl.com

Vegan Deli & Butcher

Southern-inspired restaurant Juniper offers several forms of turkey (smoked breast, confit leg and thigh and braised wings) and sides like savory leek bread pudding, collard greens and more mostly priced by the pound. A whole pumpkin pie with cinnamon whipped cream is also available. Preorder online.

Prices vary. 4101 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com

Need a vegan main for your Thanksgiving table? Vegan Deli & Butcher is offering a dressing-stuffed, crispy “skin” turkey roulade with gravy that feeds four. It’s available either as a stand-alone item or as part of The Whole Deal served with classic Thanksgiving sides and dinner rolls with cranberry compound butter (all vegan, of course). To order, visit their Instagram profile and use the link in bio.

Turkey roulade: $25; The Whole Deal: $55.

Instagram: Vegan Deli and Butcher

12oh7

Hooray For Plants

The Center for Plant-Based Living

Get the (Baked) Goods

SqWires has a whole roasted turkey for 12 plus sides like braised collard greens or sweet potato-gruyere bake (available by the pint or quart) and desserts like pumpkin bread pudding. A plated dinner with sliced turkey breast and three sides, a dinner roll and a slice of apple pie is also available. Preorder online by Nov. 19. Prices vary. 1415 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.865.3522, sqwires.com

Juniper

CC’s Vegan Spot

CC’s Vegan Spot’s plant-based Thanksgiving menu is available as a single

November 2021

If you’re a plant-based eater looking for a Thanksgiving-themed meal for the days surrounding the actual holiday (vegan Friendsgiving, anyone?), The Center for Plant-Based Living is here to provide.

Plant-based pop-up 12oh7’s “gratitude plates” serve two and feature one main, five sides and one dessert (add more items for an additional charge). You can also order larger portions of each menu option that feed eight to 10 people. Options include mains like “chick-un” and “smoked phish,” sides like candied yams, green beans and Caesar salad, and desserts such as banana pudding and sweet potato pie. Preorder online. Prices vary. 12oh7eats.com

Knead Bakehouse + Provisions A quality pie is a crucial component of any Thanksgiving meal. Knead

is offering three classic fall options – apple, pecan and pumpkin – for preorder, as well as bread loaves, buns and special holiday table decorations from local stationery designer Cheree Berry. Preorder online. Prices vary. 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com

Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery

Freshly baked bread elevates any meal, and Thanksgiving dinner is no exception. Union Loafers is offering their classic light and mild sourdough loaves for preorder, as well as a half-dozen butter rolls and seasonal cranberry-oat loaf; special wines for the holiday, like a liter bottle of Olivier Minot “La Boutanche” gamay and a chenin blanc from South African producer Boschkloof, are also available.

Preorder online through Nov. 21. Prices vary. 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.608.5071, unionloafers.com Please note: Some items may sell out; listing is not a guarantee of availability. opposite page: turkey from cinder house, this page: pie from cinder house

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

sure that taste, texture and nutrition were at the heart of what we were doing. Does it handle, store, cook and prepare like conventional meat? That was the rubric that we were solving for, and we had the benefit of time; we started working on this before, quite frankly, anybody else on the planet.”

TODD BOYMAN CO-FOUNDER, HUNGRY PLANET

“Our chief culinary officer, chef Ron DeSantis, is a certified master chef,

of which there are only 62. He is not vegan or vegetarian. He was an instructor for over 20 years at The Culinary Institute of America and had students like celebrity chefs Cat Cora and Roy Choi. From there, he was recruited to head up dining services at Yale University, where he oversaw over 15,000 from-scratch meals a day. He literally wrote the book on highvolume, from-scratch cooking and has been a guest chef at the White House and Camp David for multiple presidents.”

Todd Boyman co-founded plantbased meat company Hungry Planet with his sister Jody Boyman.

After starting out as a small, local brand, Hungry Planet can now be found at restaurants around town like Mission Taco Joint and Chicken Out, as well restaurants and grocery stores throughout the United States, Singapore and Australia. With protein offerings like pork and crab, in addition to familiar substitutes like beef and chicken, Boyman hopes that delicious, plant-based meat options will encourage people to make choices that will positively impact their health and that of the planet.

– Meera Nagarajan

“We put together a plan for him to join us as our chief culinary officer, and he really helped us take

our food to that next level so it’s ready for commercialization and figuring out how to make it accessible to the culinary trade, as well as to consumer retail. He’s just extraordinary.”

“You can take your favorite recipe items and use Hungry Planet as a

one-to-one substitution for any recipe item in any cuisine, and the food is going to taste just as good.”

“My sister Jody and I are cofounders of the business. We

“We’re also in Chicken Out here locally. They have what they call their

recognized that while we had been eating plant-based for decades and spent a lot of time, money, effort and energy trying to educate people as to why they might want to eat lower on the food chain, some people really are not interested in being educated about why they should be eating differently. So, if we wanted to make a difference, we really had to figure out how to give people what they already love to eat.”

Faux Hawk, which is a chicken sandwich made from Hungry Planet that’s absolutely delicious.”

choice that when a light is shined on it and people start seeing some of the data behind those choices – planetary, personal health and animal well-being – it’s often not comfortable.”

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we have breakfast sausage, Italian sausage and chorizo.”

conversation we’re having with our customers is: ‘This is delicious food made healthier that happens to be made from plants.’ Once they start eating plant-based meat, they become more interested in the data and having conversations about it.

But we don’t lead with the data.”

“The most challenging probably was crab simply because it was such an

“It took us 13 or 14 years to perfect [all our] meat types. We have beef,

chicken, pork, turkey and crab, and then

outlier in terms of taste and texture from the other ones – beef, chicken, pork. They have degrees of difference, which are pretty significant, but not as different as crab.”

“The problem is going to dictate the solution that you come up with, and we

defined our problem by looking globally at all meat types from day one. Making

“Two years ago, Mission Taco was interviewed in Forbes about what they

were doing. And the only reason we found out that they were using our meat was because in that interview, they said that they switched from Impossible to Hungry Planet because Hungry Planet is a superior product.”

“We firmly believe that in food businesses, you launch with your very

best out of the gate. We were very patient to get the food right. We also work locally with Dierbergs and Schnucks for a variety of our foods. It’s been a long journey, but the market is starting to build.”

November 2021

PHOTOS COURTESY OF HUNGRY PLANET

“Food is such a cultural part of our being, and it’s such a personal

“But as a company, that really is not the conversation that we’re having with our customer. The

hungry planet ground chicken with waffle November 2021

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

GUS’ PRETZELS

BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH

The story of Gus’ Pretzels, however, began in St. Louis in 1920, when Koebbe’s greatgrandfather, Frank Ramsperger, started making and selling pretzels as a street vendor

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off Jefferson Avenue. “Retail wasn’t really big then,” Koebbe explained. “It was just pretzels.”

Ramsperger had a daughter, Marcella, who married Gus August Koebbe, a World War II veteran that eventually decided to take a chance on the family business. Ramsperger bought the current Gus’ building at 1820 Arsenal St. – a former bakery conveniently located across the highway from the Anheuser-Busch brewery – in the 1950s.

Koebbe, the third Gus in his family, now has a little Gus of his own, Gus Koebbe IV. “We brought him down here for the first time after a year, around his first birthday, and we gave him the first taste of a pretzel and he was hooked,” Koebbe said, laughing. “But we’re not going to push him. My dad didn’t push me.” Koebbe

also has two daughters, Reese and Susan, who are welcome in the biz if they’re interested. “If they want to do it, cool. Whatever makes them happy,” he said.

Should they join, they’ll follow in the footsteps of their mother, Laura, and their grandmother, Suzanne, who, Koebbe pointed out, have contributed much to Gus’ success through their involvement in the financial and retail aspects of the business. “It was my mom who really designed and grew the retail side,” he commented. A big part of that was developing Gus’ menu, which today includes baked goods, sandwiches, dips and more; its success with local brewery workers looking for more substantial snacks was integral to helping Gus’ grow.

November 2021

PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Pretzels are history! Indeed, stories about the salty, carb-based snack go back almost 1,500 years. “The first story I remember growing up is that pretzels were invented by monks as a gift to kids for learning their prayers,” explained current Gus’ Pretzels owner Gus Koebbe. According to him, pretzels should actually be upside-down: “It’s supposed to symbolize crossing your arms, which is how children would pray.” Koebbe also said that during weddings in the old days, people would break pretzels for good luck. “They definitely have a long history and mythology,” he said.

Gus’ most popular item “is definitely the pretzel stick – that’s kind of what we’re known for,” Koebbe said. “St. Louis kind of invented the pretzel stick, from what I’ve heard.” In the 1920s and then during the Depression, he said, there were more and more street vendors selling food, and so Gus’ had to adapt in order to stay ahead of the game. “You couldn’t see the product in the bag, so you wanted it to pop out of the bag.” Thus, the pretzel stick was

November 2021

invented. “Whether that’s true, I don’t know,” Koebbe said with a laugh. “But it’s fun to say that St. Louis invented it.”

As pretzel lovers well know, pretzels also have a long history of being consumed alongside beer and sausages, and this is the perfect time of year to enjoy that combo. “I’ve really been into the local Oktoberfests lately. I really love this time of year when they come back,” Koebbe

said, pointing out that he especially likes Main and Mill Brewing Co.’s Oktoberfestus, 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s Fest Bier and Schlafly Beer’s Oktoberfest with his pretzels. On that note, Gus’ bratwurst sandwich is another highly popular menu item. “G&W [Meat & Bavarian Style Sausage Co.] makes our brat – another great St. Louis company,” Koebbe said. “I try to only eat about one a week, but that’s hard. You know, you gotta do quality control.”

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36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com 2027 Edwards St., St. Louis, 314.773.6566, Facebook: The Missouri Baking Company

Each winter holiday season, Missouri Baking Co. sells 5 to 6 tons of cookies – that’s 10,000 to 12,000 pounds of colorful deliciousness. Butter cookies and Mediterranean macaroons topped with candied cherries, Christmascolored wreath cookies, and green-topped cocoa mints add extra holiday flair to your Christmas cookie box.

Be sure to grab a few cuccidati, a traditional Italian cookie filled with a moist, gooey fig mixture studded with raisins, pine nuts, chocolate chips and a little orange zest. According to owners and siblings Mimi Lordo and Chris Gambaro, they can hardly keep them in stock during the holidays. Don’t let yours get away. – Liz Wolfson

Cookie Collection

L A S T B I T E // C O O K I E S

November 2021

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

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PA RTN ER CON TEN T

WYNK THC & Seltzer THC- and CBD-infused seltzer now available in Missouri dispensaries

BY LAUREN HEALEY

The zero-calorie beverage, which uses natural flavors and tastes similar to other well-known flavored sparkling waters, utilizes an innovative nano-emulsion technology for a faster-acting buzz – we’re talking 10 to 15 minutes – than edibles, which can take an hour or more to kick in. Wynk seltzers also wear off fairly quickly, after about 90 minutes.

“It’s a microdose product that is a great introduction to cannabis, especially for people who have never tried it, although it’s certainly great for regular consumers too,” said Casey Coughlin, Brand

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Manager for Wynk. “A lot of cannabis drinks on the market have a higher THC content, so you have to dose out how much you’re drinking, but with Wynk seltzers, you can literally pop the tab and drink the whole 12-ounce can; it’s very sessionable.”

Although Wynk seltzers are available in both medical and recreational marijuana markets throughout the country, rest assured that the beverage you purchase in Missouri was locally made. “Wynk is produced using our proprietary Wynk Wagon™,” said Susan Silver, Wynk Chief Marketing Officer. “We’ve created a beverage manufacturing plant on wheels.

We bring it to our partner in each state and use their locally grown cannabis to make our delicious seltzers. People have been getting very excited about this unique approach to production.”

The price point is very affordable at just $7 per can, and it’s available in fourpacks. N’Bliss Dispensary, with four locations in the St. Louis area, is running a promotion on mix-and-match four-packs.

Wynk seltzers are currently available in almost 30 locations in Missouri. For more information, including a store locator, visit drinkwynk.com.

The 5-milligram version of Wynk Seltzer is available in 12-ounce cans in Missouri; however, the same product is available with just 2.5 milligrams of each cannabinoid in 8-ounce cans in other markets.

This advertisement is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WYNK

A new way for Missouri medical marijuana patients to medicate just hit the market. Wynk™ THC & Seltzer has both 5 milligrams of THC and 5 milligrams of CBD, and comes in three flavors: Lime Twist, Black Cherry Fizz and Juicy Mango.

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N’Bliss celebrates 1 year of medical marijuana in Missouri

BY LAUR EN H EALEY

“The first two licensed dispensaries that were operational and served the patients of Missouri were our Manchester and Ellisville N’Bliss locations, which both opened on the same day,” said Bradford Goette, CEO and managing partner of N’Bliss Dispensary. “We were fortunate enough to have those businesses debut in June with CBD, so they were already fully operational and had the opportunity to help educate people and engage with the community prior to the medical dispensary portion opening.”

In the first few months of operation, N’Bliss offered just two SKUs of flower (the marijuana bud that is smoked). But as the number of Missouri medical marijuana cardholders has increased to over 140,000, the amount of products available has grown to meet demand. N’Bliss now offers over 500 SKUs, ranging from a large variety of flower strains to vapors, oils, edibles, tinctures, topicals and more. “As the year has moved on, we’ve been able to work with more cultivators and manufacturing labs to offer so many more ways to consume cannabis,” Goette said.

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As a result of there now being more ways to medicate, Goette explained, it has made cannabis more accessible to those who need it. “Getting your medical card can seem like a daunting road for many people, but we are working to make that easier,” he said, adding that many of their patients come from NuggMD, an online platform that touts procuring medical card approval in 15 minutes or less. “We also offer help to potential patients and guide them through the process on how to get their medical cards if needed.”

A large part of N’Bliss Dispensary’s outreach is education on decreasing the stigma around cannabis use. “When I told my parents I would be in the cannabis business, they were a little surprised, but they came in and tried some CBD for their arthritis and it really helped them,” Goette continued. “They realized they can get relief from this plant without having to get a ‘high.’

“I think if people educate themselves and understand this isn’t taboo, they’ll know it truly helps people in need,” he continued. “We serve individuals with varying issues, from MS [multiple sclerosis] to cancer – ailments that opioid-based treatments have not helped them with. This is a more safe and natural alternative to opioids, which can lead patients down the wrong path.”

N’Bliss, which now has four locations open in the St. Louis area, has also launched a loyalty program

that has over 15,000 members. “We’re always looking at ways to better serve our patients, so this program allows them to learn about cannabis and be rewarded for their purchases,” he said. “We’re big believers in data and use that to better the patient experience. We look at what is selling and see trends for patient preference, and we work with our cultivators and manufacturing partners to offer more of what our patients want.”

Although many patients now have several dispensaries nearby to choose from, Goette hopes that people will check out N’Bliss next time they seek their medicine. “We have wellness specialists that take great care in educating to help inform people about the power of the plant and what can best suit that patient,” he said. “We also have consultation rooms for privacy since it can be pretty intimidating walking into a dispensary.

“We’re so fortunate to be a part of the medical cannabis industry and be first to market. Now seeing more dispensaries open across the state so patients can get the medicine they need and deserve is extremely gratifying – we just hope they come visit N’Bliss when they’re near us.”

PHOTO COURTESY OF ANDREW MULLINS

A bill legalizing medical marijuana passed in Missouri in late 2018, but it took nearly two years for the medicine to become available locally.

N’Bliss Dispensary is proud to claim the title of having been the first dispensary open that served the very first medical marijuana patient in the state on Oct. 17, 2020.

For more information, visit nblisscannabis.com.

This advertisement is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients.

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PA RTN ER CON TEN T

The evolution of cannabis consumption

BY LAUREN HEALEY

No longer relegated to smokers, medical marijuana now comes in myriad forms, from edibles and tinctures to topicals and more.

“A lot of our patients don’t like smoking things, whether they have lung issues or are just trying to avoid any stress on their lungs, so the edibles and tinctures really go over well with them,” said Zach Gregory, Swade Dispensary Ellisville general manager.

Swade, which has five locations in the area, recently debuted Kizmet chocolates, with options ranging from chocolate-covered graham crackers to blood orange dark chocolate. “It’s made locally and is just fantastic,” Gregory said. “If you didn’t know there was THC in it, you could chow on it like a snack, but it has some very potent THC with great effects without tasting any of the earthiness.” Gregory is also a fan of the Zoet gummies, which come in flavors like

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key lime and berry and feature varying ratios of THC and CBD. Medicated beverages are also making their way into the market. “We have a lot of customers that are trying to get away from alcohol, so we came out with a new drink called MOHI that tastes sort of like a Blue Moon or Shock Top but with no alcohol and just 5 milligrams of THC, so it’s very sessionable,” Gregory said. “It gives that uplifting feeling but with no side effects like a hangover or losing the ability to make good decisions.”

Tinctures are another great way to medicate, and they take effect much quicker than edibles, which can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours to feel. “You use a little dropper and put [the liquid] under your tongue for about 30 seconds and it gets into your bloodstream within 5 to 10 minutes,” said Ruth Loeffler, lead product specialist for Swade Ellisville. “It’s got kind of a minty taste and it’s great for beginners to try: very userfriendly and cost effective.”

For patients looking for pain relief without any psychoactive effects, topical products

like balms are a great choice. “I was a little hesitant about the balms, but we’ve gotten a lot of positive feedback on it for ailments like arthritis and tennis elbow,” Gregory said, explaining that these products come with THC or CBD or both.

In addition, smokers also have many more options than when medical marijuana first launched in Missouri. “We started with just two strains of flower, and now we have 35 different types, including sativa, indica and hybrid,” Gregory said. “And for people looking for something a little stronger, we’ve got plenty of concentrates like oils and wax.”

So whether you’re looking to medicate the old-fashioned way with some beautiful buds to smoke or you’re more interested in the new-fangled means of cannabis consumption, Swade has something for everyone. For more information, visit swadecannabis.com.

This advertisement is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients.

PHOTO COURTESY OF SUPERDOG

When medical marijuana first hit the Missouri market in October 2020, the modes of consumption were quite limited, with most dispensaries only offering a couple strains of flower. Fast forward to little more than a year later, and the methods of consumption have increased exponentially.

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