November 2022

What’s your favorite road trip snack?

PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR

STAFF WRITER ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR DESIGNER

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

PROOFREADER & CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Allyson Mace

Meera Nagarajan

Liz Wolfson

Lauren Healey

Iain Shaw

Meera Nagarajan

Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey

Heather Hughes Huff

Combos and a gigantic Diet Coke

Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EVENTS COORDINATOR

LISTINGS EDITOR FACT-CHECKER INTERN

Heather Hughes Huff, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson

Allyson Mace

Kelli Jones

Amy Hyde

Amy Hyde

Alexander Olson

Wenting Yu

White cheddar popcorn and string cheese followed by peanut M&M's and SweeTarts Ropes.

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2022– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

SAUCE

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

BBQ Pringles entree, Junior Mints dessert and a bottle of cherry Coke.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

Cheetos Puffs, peanut M&Ms, fizzy water, Diet Coke

Little Debbie Oatmeal Creme Pie

features

COVER DETAILS

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

BY CARMEN TROESSER

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

E D I T O R S' PICKS

DD Mau, 20 Allen Ave., Webster Groves, 314.926.0900; 11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, 314.942.2300, ddmaustl.com

Eat This

The vermicelli bowl at DD Mau is fresh, light and flavorful. It comes with rice noodles, crisp vegetables – like cabbage and cucumber – an egg roll and your choice of protein. We’re partial to the beef, even the vegan beef, which is hearty and satisfying. Choose your preferred sauce to dress the whole thing the way you like it; we recommend the Spicy DD, a creamy sauce with a kick, or the Vietnamese Vinaigrette, which is sweet and sharp with vinegar.

DRINK THIS

For Bluewood Brewing’s Somm Series, advanced sommelier Alisha Blackwell-Calvert (Cinder House) and Bluewood mead maker Scott Kurtz collaborated on a series of pyments, a style of mead that includes grape juice in the fermentation process. Their Somm Series Syrah, with notes of vanilla, creme brulee and blackberry compote, has received gold medals at the prestigious Mazer Cup international mead competition as well as the National Honey Board’s Mead Crafters Competition. To try it, visit Bluewood’s tasting room, where it’s currently available by pour only.

Bluewood Brewing, 1821 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.261.4079, bluewoodbrewing.com

BY MICHELLE

SUGARWITCH

If Sugarwitch’s seasonal pop-ups at Olio have slipped your grasp, now is your time. Their first brickand-mortar location is now open in Carondelet, serving a full beverage program in addition to their signature frozen confections like ice cream sandwiches, dipped cones and pops Drip coffee, cold brew and café au laits are available with housemade frozen cereal milk cubes for that extra touch of magic. Local roaster Coffeestamp provides the Witches Brew house blend while Big Heart Tea Co. supplies fresh tea. The matcha ice cream float is a decadent must-try that balances the toasty earthiness of green tea with sweet fizzy Boylan Bottling Co. cream soda topped with vanilla-infused whipped cream made with Rolling Lawns Farm heavy cream.

7726 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 573.234.0042, sugarwitchic.com

DONUT FACTORY

SHABU DAY

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANKSY;

Shabu shabu is a do-it-yourself hotpot dish and communal dining experience where participants swish around thinly sliced meats and vegetables in rumbling pots of hot soup. Shabu Day offers a single, all-you-can-eat shabu shabu option. Choose two of three flavored broths: sweet-and-savory sukiyaki, rich beef, or the house spicy with floating slices of jalapeno and green onion. Then select two meats from the column of beef and pork options (or add shrimp for an extra charge), and let the fun begin. The meat is served alongside a bowl filled with noodles, dumplings, fish cakes and fresh, crunchy veggies like cabbage and mushrooms; these soak in the broth while your slivers of raw brisket or sirloin get dunked briefly. Cook it all to your liking before sopping up a buffet of dipping sauces and enjoying.

8237 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.755.1075, Instagram: shabu.day

FATTENED CAF

With The Fattened Caf, Charlene Lopez Young and Darren Young have built a reputation as one of the area’s standard-bearers for Filipino cuisine. Regular pop-ups at Earthbound Beer over the past year have now evolved into an ongoing residency in the kitchen at the Cherokee Street brewpub with a menu that rotates frequently. It’s hard to pick a favorite between the smoke-kissed pumuputok na manok, a grilled half chicken coated with a sweet, garlicky marinade and topped with red chile peppers and spring onions, and the sosyal na baboy’s succulent rib tips. The sweetness of these dishes is tempered by the accompanying garlic rice and sides like pickled red cabbage atchara, and the flavor profiles are nuanced and distinctive.

Earthbound and The Fattened Caf have collaborated on Tambay, a flaked corn, pandan and coconut cream ale, to pair with the food – we also found Earthbound’s Allstars Special stout an excellent foil.

2724 Cherokee St. (inside Earthbound Beer), St. Louis, 636.498.4240, thefattenedcaf.com

MOCHI DONUT FACTORY

Mochi doughnuts come in a bubblering shape and are light with a chewy texture from the combination of glutinous rice and tapioca flours in the dough. They’re one-part mochi, one-part funnel cake and one-part cake doughnut energy. At Mochi Donut Factory, nine signature flavors circulate and will always be available, like hazelnut, black sesame and churro with rotating specials every couple of weeks like matcha or mango

16023 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.422.1401, stlmochidonutfactory.com

IN THE KNOW

POUR DECISIONS

Inspired by their world travels, Javia GilliamSanford and Kaje Sanford founded Pour Decisions STL to share their love of cocktails and premium spirits with St. Louisans. The couple started the business in fall 2021 out of their mobile bar – a converted horse trailer –but they’ve since added pop-up bar packages and a Champagne cart to their services.

Whether they’re organizing their own events or working with a client, Javia and Kaje create experiences that run from full bar services to tightly curated, highly customized occasions.

“We have a client where every month we switch it up, where it might be a whiskey tasting, and maybe a cocktail building class, it might be a wine class,” Javia said. “Some people really want experiences, some people really want a signature cocktail.” Check the Pour Decisions STL website and Instagram for updates on upcoming events.

pourdecisionsstl.com; Instagram: @pourdecisions_stl

STL FOODIE GIFT GUIDE

OWNER’S RESERVE CUVÉE

Noboleis Vineyards is a family-owned winery located in the heart of Missouri Wine Country. The Owner’s Reserve Cuvée is an oak-aged, dry red blend made from 100% estate grown grapes and will be perfect to enjoy at your next holiday party! Whether you pair it with your Thanksgiving turkey or enjoy it on its own, the Cuvée is a delightful choice! Noboleis Vineyards,100 Hemsath Rd, Augusta, noboleisvineyards.com

CREATIVE EDGE HANDMADE

CUTTING & SERVING BOARDS

Creative Edge creates handmade cutting and serving boards from sustainably grown and harvested hardwoods. Every board is designed, cut, assembled, and finished by hand in their solar powered woodshop in St. Louis. Their limited production lines and custom pieces push the boundaries of traditional cutting board forms and aesthetics, offering a variety of elegant patterns and organically inspired designs. Craft Alliance, 5080 Delmar Blvd, craftalliance.org

BAKLAVA GIFT BOXES

Sedara offers a wide variety of Iraqi and Turkish baklava made with love. Order and ship boxes of assorted baklava in multiple sizes. They make a perfect gift to send to friends and family across the country. Sedara Sweets & Ice Cream, multiple locations, sedarasweets.com

SINK SIDE SOAP BLOCK

Swear off dishwashing liquids with their harsh chemicals and cloying synthetic fragrance. Sink Side Soap Block quickly removes grease, dirt, and germs to clean most anything. Herbaria, 2016 Marconi Ave., The Hill, herbariasoap.com

MACARON GIFT BOXES

Le Macaron authentic French Macarons are made with the world’s finest ingredients, au natural! Also offering gourmet chocolates, tarts and cakes, French gelato, classic French pastries, and more. Treat your friends, family, employees and business partners! Create your own holiday gift boxes in 6, 12, 24 or 36 count boxes with your choice of 20+ flavors. Open M-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 9am-9pm.

Le Macaron French Pastries of Saint Louis, 111 W Lockwood Ave, Old Webster Groves, 314.395.6094

SWIRL BOTANICAL

Drink Swirl at your next holiday event!

The Swirl Botanicals by Noboleis Vineyards are made from 100% real fruit, infused with botanicals and lightly spritzed. The Swirl Botanical Red: Cranberry, Lemon & Rosemary is the perfect beverage to dazzle at parties! Whether it’s the star of the show or paired nicely with your holiday stuffing, Swirl is perfect for the season. drinkswirl.com

SQUARE ONE BREWERY & DISTILLERY SEASONAL FAVORITES

Vermont Night is Christmas in a glass! This whiskey based spirit is aged in oak, infused with orange, lemon, & lime zest, cloves, cinnamon sticks, & vanilla beans, and sweetened with a maple syrup. Seven years ago, Square One set aside a barrel of JJ Neukomm for longer, slower, cooler aging. Missouri White Oak casks darkened the color and deepened the flavor, adding layers of vanilla and maple sweetness along with a hint of black pepper spiciness. squareonebrewery.com

S'MORES KIT

Clementine's Naughty and Nice Ice Cream offers more than just ice cream. Get cozy this holiday season with their s'mores and portabile bonfire gift bundle. The bundle includes a s'mores kit with 8 honey graham crackers, 4 vanilla marshmallows, and 4 dark chocolate squares and a portable bonfire. The s'mores kit retails for $28, the portable bonfire for $20 and as a bundle for $45. Clementine's Naughty and Nice Ice Cream, multiple locations, clementinescreamery.com

rev iew

akar

BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS

Bernie Lee has his own style. You notice it immediately upon entering Akar, his intimate restaurant at the end of Wydown Boulevard in Clayton. His keen sense of design helps explain the sleek decor: a single sconce of flowers jutting out from the main wall textured and glazed in shades of gray; iron pipe-and-dark wood shelving displaying locally made pork ribs at akar

plates, glassware and jar candles designed by Lee, set against a wall of subway tile; large, fabric-like metal net chandeliers, handmade in Bali to Lee’s specifications, hanging from a tin ceiling. Even the color and texture of the staff aprons convey Lee’s sense of fashion: “It took a long time to find what I like,” he noted.

And Bernie Lee knows what he likes. More so than with his past restaurant ventures (609, Hiro Asian Kitchen, Hiro Poke Co.), he is now much more interested in sharing those likes than trying to meet constantly shifting customer demands and desires. With Akar, the entire concept, from the interior design to the menu, is much more personal. “People who know me have said, ‘Oh my God, you brought your living room here,’” Lee explained in a phone interview. Akar also reflects more of his Malaysian roots, so much so that he named it after the Malay word for roots.

Following Akar’s opening in June 2019, this magazine chose it as one of that year’s Best New Restaurants, describing it as “a love letter to Lee’s past” where he gets to cook whatever he wants. A chef and owner of their own restaurant cooking whatever they want may not sound unusual, but it wasn’t that easy for him. “I always designed the menus of my other restaurants for everybody else,” he explained.

“I’ve been doing Akar’s menu for the past 10 years at home when I’m entertaining guests, and for years my friends would say, ‘Bernie, you have to put this on the menu,’” he explained. But he worried about how his ideas would be accepted, especially given the popularity of Hiro where he had to fill its huge dining room by essentially meeting customer demand all the time. “So, I held back.”

Lee said he’s more focused and truer to himself now. He wanted to showcase his Malaysian heritage as well as the inspiration he’s taken from his global travels. “Akar’s flavor profile and food combination is exactly how I like to eat,” he said. “I designed the whole concept for myself, food for myself and what I would enjoy,” he said. “I’m

chef and owner bernie lee

walnut and pepper dip at akar

the interior at akar

sharing with St. Louis who I am, where I’m from and what my history is.”

Bernie Lee’s story begins in his grandmother’s kitchen. Growing up in the northernmost region of Malaysia in a large household where women did all the cooking, Lee spent a lot time in the kitchen for two reasons: He didn’t much like outdoor activities and, more importantly, he knew he could always get the first bite ahead of the other kids.

Whether he realized it or not, sitting in that vibrant kitchen surrounded by multiple generations of Lee

women cooking and gossiping, he was absorbing and learning. “Almost every day I watched how they prep, how they cook and how they talk,” Lee said. He attributes the influence of his mother, grandmothers and great-grandmothers, all passing down their culinary knowledge, traditions and techniques as his roots and the inspiration for who he is today, even if all he wanted back then was to be first in line.

Lee’s more recent history entails calling St. Louis home for over 20 years. Without knowing anything about where or what St. Louis was, he moved here to attend the University of Missouri-St. Louis to study business

management. He told his school adviser in Malaysia that he wanted to be in a city without a large Asian community so he could push himself to learn the culture and language.

Akar’s food is infused with much of that same boldness. A plate of fried okra bites featured cubes of the golden fried pod tossed with gochujang sauce, crushed peanuts and scallions. Pairing with a glass of prosecco made for the perfect combination of acidic tart bubbles cutting through sweet and spicy crispiness.

Lee learned from his mother that food feeds the body and the soul and allows people to come together. “Every [dish] that we create and design, when people eat it, they will have some sort of comfort and be reminded of something,” he said. His char siu chicken is such a dish: An airline-cut breast, marinated overnight in rice wine, hoisin, soy, garlic, Chinese five-spice powder and brown sugar, is seared and roasted, accompanied with black rice and chopped garlic, and crowned with charred broccolini, pickled Fresno chiles and candied sunflower seeds. “Many Asian clientele tell me that it reminds them of home, reminds them of their mother, or reminds them of somewhere they ate in Asia,” Lee said.

Lee doesn’t change the menu with the seasons: “I change with feeling whenever I want,” he said. “People tell me that lamb and duck are fall and winter dishes. The entire summer I ran duck and lamb, and they sold out every night. It proved to me that food is food. Why limit yourself?” A duck breast special available on one visit, brined in oolong tea and seared to a beautiful pink hue with crisp skin, served as a good reminder of that advice.

Lee’s vision for Akar hasn’t changed since opening, but he’s been pleasantly surprised by how well diners have accepted his widescreen culinary approach by trying out new flavors and spices. The gnocchi dish provided a fitting example: dumplings tossed in Malaysian curry with an umami-rich mushroom confit, crispy chickpeas and bits of broccoli all topped with vibrant purple pansy petals. “I really believe that

risotto with roasted turnips, edamame and crispy shallots at akar

braised short rib at akar

during lockdown, people were searching for new ideas and learned about new foods. We’re all human, we all want to know what’s going on out there besides just fried chicken and steak,” he said.

That thinking carries over to Akar’s beverage program with a handful of creative cocktails (try the Serai, made with lemongrass-infused tequila, cilantro liqueur and Thai chile syrup), a wellcurated wine selection of around 60 bottles of Old and New World selections, and, in a rare and welcome touch, about a dozen half-bottle (375 milliliter) choices.

“Being an Asian restaurant, I wanted to focus on Asian spirits,” Lee said. “And half bottles of wine allow more freedom to try different wines with different food.”

It’s worth paying attention not only to the food you’re eating but also to what you’re eating it off of at Akar.

The majority of the ceramic ware was designed by Lee and handmade by local

Lee opened Akar in June 2019. Eight months later the world shut down. When asked what he did to pivot, he explained that as an immigrant, his survival instinct kicked in. “I don’t have family here to back me up, I don’t have partners, I’m on my own. I pretty much lived in Akar seven days a week for 15 months.” In that time, Lee said he learned “to be true to myself, do what I love and give 110% effort.” With plans to expand next door on track and an expanded Champagne selection in the works, Bernie Lee knows how to get the job done.

Editor’s note: Dishes and their descriptions reflect the menu at the time of the writer’s visit. Akar’s menu changes frequently, and some dishes may no longer be available or may be prepared differently.

akar

Where Akar, 7641 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.553.9914, akarstl.com

Don’t-Miss Dishes

If available, fried okra, short rib, gnocchi, char siu chicken Vibe So much sophistication in such a small, sleek space. Heated patio seating is also available.

Entree Prices $26 to $41

When Tue. – Sun., 4 to 9 p.m.

artist-musician Jeremy Segel-Moss of Cherokee Street Ceramics; these are stamped with Lee’s signature hibiscus logo, the national flower of Malaysia.

HALEY F. RILEY

SALT + SMOKE

Position: Chef/Pitmaster/ Owner

Married? Yes, my wife Jillian and I were just married on 9/17/22. We had a lovely wedding with our close friends and family and our friends at Balkan Treat Box catered it!

Kids? We have one kid, Isabel. She’s a spicy little one that loves cooking with dad, helping to unload the dishwasher and eating pizza.

Where are you originally from? I was born in San Francisco, but moved back to STL when I was only a few years old.

Where did you go to school? Webster Groves High School.

How did you get to where you are? I was fortunate to be able to learn from many wonderful chefs and restaurant owners. I found success from inserting myself into restaurant settings that were operated by people that

I believed in and digging deep to do the very best job that I could for them. Tom Schmidt was one of those people and over time we developed a deep respect for one another’s work ethics and beliefs. We eventually invested all our energy and focus into developing Salt + Smoke.

New things going on in your restaurant: We've been really excited about our nationwide shipping program that we developed recently. We're getting into the season where that really pops off. It’s been a really nice way for some of our BBQ Besties to share our BBQ they love so much with friends and family that live in different states. They can order online through saltandsmokebbq.com and ship their favorites to their besties for the holidays.

Favorite menu item: I love all of the different items on the menu, but I’m most excited about the BBQ pork rib tips that we recently added.

They're really wonderful and not seen as frequently in some of the larger BBQ joints.

Three cool facts:

• Tom Schmidt has ridden an ostrich. Tom also has a wealth of knowledgable Eagle facts. He’s a bird guy.

• Peregrine Falcons are the fastest birds on earth clocking in at over 200+ mph in dives.

• Shoebill storks can live for up to 35 years.

What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? My favorite pieces of kitchen equipment are our smokers. They're such a fun tool to explore and have such a unique capability of altering the flavor profile of the different ingredients. My favorite recent Ford purchases are the two new steam kettles we ordered for our commissary kitchen. It’s made production a breeze!

Salt + Smoke, multiple locations, saltandsmokebbq.com

Enter to WIN a ML300!

The ultimate design for lifting, carrying, and moving in any situation. Mightylite makes moving hot & cold food a lot easier!

t a ble m a gic

Handmade tableware reminds us that great food is as much art as it is sustenance. Special serving ware helps turn eating into an event, delicious dishes into a memorable meal. Here are six local ceramicists lending their distinct touch to the craft of tableware.

BY LIZ WOLFSON // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Stephanie Dukat Ceramics

Ava, Illinois-based artist Stephanie Dukat uses traditional pottery, illustration and screen-printing techniques to create charming, dynamic pieces inspired by memories, nature, landscapes and moments in time. stephaniedukat.com

Cherokee Street Ceramics

Jeremy Segel-Moss works out of his home studio on Cherokee Street, where he creates “interesting canvases for chefs to put their art on.” Check out his work at local restaurants like Indo, Ivy and Akar. cherokeestreetceramics.com

Zak Pottery

Sandra Zak’s wheel-thrown, hand-built stoneware combines strong utilitarian forms with bold colors, lines and patterns. Choose a single color or mix and match for a personalized set.

Facebook: Zak Pottery

Boda Clay

Molly Svoboda aims for the handmade nature of her ceramics to provide a moment of positivity and ease throughout the day, allowing users’ minds to rest as they notice how the rim of a cup feels or small variations in a glaze or handle. Check out her work in action at Bowood by Niche. bodaclaystl.com

Caitlin Allen Studio

A plein air painter, Caitlin Heimerl Allen works with clay and slips colored with mason stains, allowing her to utilize her painterly sensibility in a three-dimensional medium. Her dreamy tableware reflects her love for color and nature. caitlinallenstudio.com

YellowTree Clay

Justin Leszcz’s stoneware provides a smooth, calming backdrop for dishes and beverages of all kinds. Leszcz recently created custom cups for Lazy Tiger’s Halloween pop-up, Corpse Reviver; you can also see his work in action at Sump Coffee, Vicia and Cinder House. yellowtreefarm.com; Instagram: yellowtreeclay

THE SAUCE GIFT GUIDE

Foodie gifts at every price point

by meera nagarajan

when you want to spend

UNDER $25

Big Heart Tea Happy Matcha Sticks

Big Heart Tea Co. partnered with the Mukoujima family, which has been farming tea for three generations, to source organic, direct trade matcha that’s ready in a snap. Simply empty a packet into 16 ounces of water, shake it up and enjoy.

$18. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Yod and Co. Anna Wine Glass

Fante’s Olive Oil Can

This elegant, useful vessel for storing and dispensing olive oil has an easy pour spout for a smooth stream minus the mess.

$22. Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, St. Louis, 314.727.6464,

Elephant napkin ring

We’re bringing napkin rings back. There’s something timeless about them; and these, which are handmade in Kenya, are especially cute.

$6 each. Zee Bee Market, 7270 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.370.4111; 3211 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.1000, zeebeemarket.com

Nordic Ware Woodland Cottage Embossing Rolling Pin

Make flawless holiday cookies with this rolling pin that stamps intricate winter scenes onto cookie dough.

$25. Fig & Sparrow, 300 N. Main St., St. Charles, 636.395.7295, thefigandsparrowco.com

$25-$50 when you want to spend

Global Grub Kits

Whether you want to make mochi, fortune cookies, churros or hot sauce, there’s a kit for that. Make cooking projects more fun with one of these kits that has most of the ingredients and tools to execute everything at home with ease.

$34. The Annex, 8122 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.731.6329, theannexstl.com

Handless Mug

These mugs are cute. We’re partial to the ones with chickens on them; the mugs painted with pandas and bao buns are a close second.

$28. Union Studio, 8157 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.279.1446; 1605 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5398, stlunionstudio.com

Sea Salt Gift Pack

Salt adds flavor; flavored salts add kapow! This sampler has six salts including saffron salt (use atop fish), truffle salt (sprinkle on pasta), and Fiori salt (sprinkle on chocolate ice cream). They’ll all add panache to your everyday dishes.

$27. Ditalia, ditalia.com

Sump Carter Move Mug

This to-go coffee mug is special for many reasons. It has a thin lip for delivering the perfect sip; the inside is ceramic, so it doesn’t take on any odors; plus, it’s chic.

$32. Sump Coffee, 3700 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 917.412.5670, sumpcoffee.com

Libellula Extra Virgin Olive Oil

An early autumn harvest yields a green olive oil that tastes peppery and bold. Drizzle it to finish dishes, or use it in dressings or for dipping bread.

$40. AO&Co. Market & Cafe, 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, bengelina.com

Laguiole Ivory Knives

The French get it. You don’t need a steak knife just for steak; you need it for crusty bread, galettes, pizza – whatever needs a proper cut at the table. These sharp and classy knives get the job done in style.

Set of six: $85. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com

Live Edge Bowl

These bowls are naturally beautiful with an organic shape that shows the wood’s tree rings in unique graphic patterns.

$85. Knotty by Nature Hardwood, 15 E. Main St., Grafton, 618.556.7020, knottybynaturehardwood.com

Sitoo Cocktail Smoker

Take your drinks to the next level: This kit comes with wood chips and tools to cold smoke cocktails at home. Smoked Negronis, anyone?

$70. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com

TWCP 40th Anniversary Maestro Dobel Tequila

This special edition tequila for The Wine and Cheese Place’s 40th anniversary is smooth and delicious.

$65. The Wine and Cheese Place, multiple locations, 314.447.9463, wineandcheeseplace.com

Moreno Three-Bottle Wine Tote

It’s all about the wine and cheese. This tote stores three bottles of wine in an insulated compartment and comes with a corkscrew, cheese knife and cheese board. Additional compartments make it the perfect low-maintenance picnic companion.

$68. Hearth and Soul, 9640 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.7685, hearthandsoul.com

$50-$100 when you want to spend

Alessi salt-and-pepper grinders

With a style that’s somewhere between Gothic and Middle Earth, these grinders follow the tradition of the Alessi brand, combining expressive design with functionality and lasting quality.

$170 each. Centro, 4727 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0111, centro-inc.com

Macaron of the Month Club

Give the gift of sugar. La Patisserie Chouquette’s subscription ships six handmade macarons – including limited edition flavors – and a note to someone you love. Six-month subscription: $240. La Patisserie Chouquette, 1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com

Ooni Koda 16-inch Pizza Oven

Make delicious pizzas in a flash in this portable, compact outdoor oven. It reaches 932 degrees and makes a pie in 60 seconds flat.

$600. Williams Sonoma, 1701 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, 314.432.6760, williamssonoma.com

when you want to spend

$100+

Milo 5.5 Quart Classic Dutch Oven

We love this Dutch oven’s understated color scheme, a glossy, warm gray with gold hardware. This workhorse goes from stove to oven to the dishwasher, plus it’s non-toxic and comes with a lifetime warranty.

$135. Forth and Home, 8137 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.266.8260, forthandhome.com

Miele CM 6360

MilkPerfection

This tiny countertop cappuccino maker will make your coffee to your taste from the touch of a button on your phone – while you’re still in bed. With a milk frother, 18 different coffee drinks, easy cleanup and tasteful design, it’s sure to make mornings deliciously luxurious.

$2,699. Designer Appliances by Lemcke, 104 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.968.7575, designerappliancesbylemcke.com

fancy’s pumpkin pie

Fancy’s Pumpkin Pie

Courtesy of Pint Size Bakery’s Christy Augustin

“We hate the soggy crust and starchy filling of nearly every other pumpkin pie, so ours is in a flaky, pre-baked, all-butter crust with a custardy filling like nothing you’ve ever had before.”

– Christy Augustin

1 PIE

Pâte Brisée Pie Crust:*

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. sugar

¾ cup (1½ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into walnut-sized pieces

½ cup ice cold water

1 Tbsp. apple cider or white vinegar

Filling:

2 Tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¾ tsp. ground ginger**

¾ tsp. ground cinnamon**

1∕8 tsp. ground clove**

1∕8 tsp. ground cardamom**

1 pinch ground nutmeg**

1 pinch ground allspice**

¹∕³ cup brown sugar

3 eggs

1¹∕³ cups pumpkin puree

11∕8 cups sweetened condensed milk

For the crust:

• In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt and sugar. Add half the very cold butter and work it into the flour mixture by hand until a cornmeal texture is reached. Add the remaining cold butter and rub it into the flour mixture until pieces are the size of hazelnuts.

• Add the cold water and vinegar and gently toss together using a fork to create a rough, shaggy

dough. The dough should still be dry and crumbly, but will form together when squeezed. Divide the dough in half for the next stage, called fraisage.

• On a lightly floured work surface, smear one half of the dough with the heel of your hand, ball it up and repeat 2 to 3 more times until a cohesive dough has formed. This little trick makes the flakiest crust. Form each half into a round, wrap in plastic and chill 2 hours or up to 2 days.

For the filling:

• In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, ginger, cinnamon, clove, cardamom, nutmeg, allspice and brown sugar until no lumps remain. Whisk the eggs into the flour mixture, then the pumpkin puree and sweetened condensed milk. Use immediately or refrigerate the filling overnight or up to 4 days for superior texture.

For the pie:

• On a lightly floured work surface, roll one of the chilled dough rounds into a 12-inch circle, about 1 ∕8 - to ¼-inch thick. Reserve the other half of the dough for another use.

• Lay the dough into a 9- or 10-inch deep dish tart or pie pan, form a crimped edge and thoroughly dock the bottom with a fork. Freeze the pie shell for 20 minutes (or up to a month).

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• Line the frozen pie crust with parchment and fill with dried beans or raw rice. Bake 15 minutes, remove the weights and continue baking until golden brown, another 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven.

• Decrease the oven temperature to 325 degrees.

• Pour the prepared pumpkin pie filling into the par-baked crust and bake on a sheet tray for 30 minutes, then decrease temperature to 300 degrees.

• Continue to bake until the top is starting to brown around the edges and the center is slightly puffed, about 30 minutes. The pie will be a bit jiggly, but don’t be tempted to bake until firm or the custard will curdle. Baked pie keeps at room temperature for several days.

*This recipe creates enough dough for two pie crusts. Wrap the remainder tightly and freeze for later. Thaw frozen pie crust in the refrigerator for several hours when ready to use.

**Use these spices or substitute two teaspoons pumpkin pie spice.

6 large eggs

2.5 oz. water

2 Tbsp. vanilla extract

¼ cup grapeseed oil

2 cups pecans

For the pie crust:

• In a stand mixer, combine the flour, sugar, salt and cold cubed butter. Mix on slow to medium speed until mixture begins to look like moist sand with small and large pieces of butter throughout, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs, Knead sourdough discard and milk and continue mixing until the dough just comes together. Divide the dough into two equal pieces, wrap in plastic and refrigerate 1 hour.

Knead Classic Pecan Pie with Flaky Sourdough Crust

Courtesy of Knead Bakehouse + Provisions

“Make sure all your ingredients are cold to get the flakiest crust possible.”

– Knead

2 PIES

Sourdough pie crust:

2½ cups flour

1 Tbsp. sugar

2 tsp. salt

1¼ cups cold butter, cubed

2 large eggs

2 Tbsp. Knead sourdough discard

2 Tbsp. milk

Pecan pie filling:

2½ cups firmly packed brown sugar

1¼ tsp. cornstarch

1 tsp. salt

• On a lightly floured surface, roll out one half of the pie dough into a circle, about 1∕8 -inch thick. Place the dough into a 9-inch pie pan. Any excess dough can be cut off or crimped to make a decorative edge around the pan. Repeat with remaining dough. Refrigerate the panned pie crusts at least 4 hours or overnight to ensure they do not shrink while baking.

For the filling:

• In a bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, cornstarch and salt. Add the eggs, water and vanilla and whisk together until everything is wet and thoroughly combined. Slowly whisk in the grapeseed oil until incorporated. Set aside.

For the pie:

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Place 1 cup pecans in each of the two pie crusts, then divide the filling evenly between the two.

• Bake pies on a baking sheet until the internal temperature reaches 200 degrees, about 30 minutes. Let cool completely before serving.

Salted Maple Pie

1 PIE

Pie crust:

1¾ to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 Tbsp. sugar

¾ tsp. salt

¾ cup (1½ sticks) cold, unsalted butter

½ to ¾ cup ice water

Filling:

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 cup maple syrup

² ∕³ cup packed brown sugar

¼ cup fine yellow cornmeal

¼ heaping tsp. kosher salt

3 room-temperature eggs

1 room-temperature egg yolk

¾ cup room-temperature heavy cream, plus more for brushing

1 tsp. vanilla extract

Flaky sea salt, for topping

For the pie crust:

• In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Cut the cold butter into cubes and add to the flour mixture. Using a pastry cutter, fork or your hands, cut the butter into the flour mixture until chunks of butter are about the size of a pea.

• Add ¼ cup ice-cold water and gently combine. Continue to add water a little bit at a time until the dough just comes together. (You may not need to use the entire ¾ cup ice water). The dough should not be sticky – if you added too much water, add a little more flour but try

not to overwork the dough.

• Form the dough into 2 equal discs, wrap in plastic and refrigerate 30 minutes or overnight.

For the filling and pie:

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• On a lightly floured surface, roll out one of the refrigerated pie dough discs into a 12-inch circle, reserving the other for another use. Gently transfer to a pie pan and crimp the edges as desired. Refrigerate at least 20 minutes.

• Line the pie crust with parchment and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the edges are beginning to brown, about 15 minutes. Remove the parchment and weights and bake until the bottom of the pie just begins to brown, about 5 more minutes. Set aside and let cool.

• In a medium bowl, whisk together the melted butter and maple syrup.

Add the brown sugar, cornmeal and salt and whisk until well combined.

• In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolk until well combined. Whisk in the heavy cream and vanilla extract.

• Slowly pour the egg mixture into the maple mixture and whisk until well combined.

• Pour the filling into the par-baked pie crust and brush the crust with heavy cream.

• Bake until the pie is puffed in the center and still slightly jiggly, about 55 minutes, rotating the pie halfway through.

• Let cool and set 4 to 6 hours or overnight. Top with flaky sea salt and serve.

Courtesy of Made. by Lia’s Lia Weber

Adapted from Sister Pie

Cyrano’s Apple Cavalier

1 PIE

4 Granny Smith apples, peeled and sliced

1 pint strawberries, sliced

cup sugar

cup brown sugar

3 Tbsp. cornstarch

1 tsp. vanilla extract

pinch salt

1 9-inch butter pie crust Whipped cream, for serving

Streusel topping: ½ cup flour

cup sugar

cup brown sugar

pinch salt

Tbsp. butter

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• In a large bowl, combine the sliced apples and strawberries. Add the sugar, brown sugar, cornstarch, vanilla and salt and stir gently to combine. Transfer the fruit mixture into the pie crust and set aside.

• Make the streusel topping by combining the flour, sugar, brown sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Work the butter into the flour mixture until combined.

• Top the pie with the streusel topping, transfer to a baking sheet and bake until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbling, about 1 hour.

• Let cool completely, then serve topped with whipped cream.

Pumpkin Mousse Mini Pies

8 TO 10 MINI PIES

24 oz. cream cheese

1 lb. powdered sugar

15 oz. pumpkin purée

2 Tbsp. ground cinnamon, divided

1 tsp. vanilla extract

¾ tsp. ground ginger

¾ tsp. ground nutmeg

½ tsp. ground clove

1 quart heavy cream

1½ cups graham cracker crumbs

¼ cup sugar

1 pinch of salt

3 oz. melted butter

Whipped cream, for serving

• In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese and powdered sugar. Mix on medium speed until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down the bowl. Add the pumpkin puree, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, the vanilla, clove, ginger and nutmeg and mix to combine.

• Switch to a whisk attachment and add the heavy cream on low speed. Increase the speed and whisk until the mousse is light and fluffy.

• In a small bowl, combine the graham cracker crumbs, sugar and the remaining 1 tablespoon cinnamon. Stir, then add the melted butter and stir until combined.

• Divide the graham cracker mixture evenly among 8 to 10 little serving cups (or add to 1 pie pan for a fullsize pie) and press firmly into the bottom to form the crust. Spoon the mousse evenly among the cups (or into the pie pan) and smooth the top.

Top with whipped cream and serve.

Courtesy of Cyrano’s Carolyn Downs

Courtesy of Russell’s Russell Ping

From an upscale hotel getaway to the best grocery store picks for your home-cooked meals to the best spot to hook up your dessert table, we've got five St. Louis suggestions to upgrade your Thanksgiving dinner.

Bolyard's Meat & Provisions

Pasture raised turkeys from Buttonwood Farm are now available for preorder. This year Bolyard's Meat & Provisions is also offering turkey gravy, poultry stock, savory bread pudding, au gratin potatoes, green bean casserole and of course their famous buttermilk biscuits. These items may be reserved when placing your online order for turkey. Add a DIY dry brine kit which includes salt, sugar, black pepper, ginger, lemon zest, and a brining bag along with instructions. Turkey is lean and somewhat unforgiving if overcooked – brining is like insurance your bird stays moist and juicy! Don't forget to think ahead for Christmas – Bolyard's will offer beef standing rib roasts, beef tenderloin roasts, and boneless smoked hams.

2733 Sutton Blvd, Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com

Cinder House

Cinder House at Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis invites family and friends to gather and celebrate Thanksgiving with an artfully prepared turkey dinner with all the trimmings. Perched on the Hotel’s eighth floor with sweeping views of the Gateway Arch and majestic Mississippi, Cinder House provides sophisticated warmth and comfort, a perfect setting to share the holiday and give thanks.

James Beard award-winning Chef Gerard Craft and Chef de Cuisine Peter Slay are offering a prix fixe menu that features an entrée of Wood Fired Joyce Farms Heritage Turkey Duo, Sweet Potato Mole, Charred Corn Brioche Stuffing, Brussel Sprouts, and Cranberry Turkey Jus. Diners choose from a selection of side dishes that includes the traditional American favourites of Sweet Potato Puree With Roasted Marshmallow and Candy Pecan, and Green

Bean Casserole Topped With Crispy Shallot.

For dessert, classic Pumpkin Pie with Vanilla Chantilly and Fried Pepitas. Hotel guests and locals alike are invited to enjoy at $65 (excluding tax and gratuity) per person.

Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, 999 N 2nd St, St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cinderhousestl.com

turkeys to bakery items to fresh produce to all those easy to forget supplies like roaster pans, disposable plates and cutlery. City Foundry STL 3701 Foundry Way Suite 201, St. Louis, 314.597.4400, freshthyme.com

Navin’s BBQ

Navin’s BBQ offers several catering packages to cover all sizes of events. In addition to smoked turkey packages for all your family holiday meals, check out their alternative smoked meat options such as smoked pork loin, prime rib, and whole or half chickens. Navin’s also offers great side dish options for your holiday meals like macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes, collard greens and more. To discuss all your holiday package options, email navinsbbq@ gmail.com or call our catering line at 314-449-1185.

3559 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.449.1185, navinsbbq.com

Serendipity

Homemade Ice Cream

Fresh Thyme Market

Thanksgiving dinner (or any other seasonal celebration) doesn’t need to be overwhelming. Fresh Thyme Market is a one-stop shop for an impressive selection of ingredients you can trust, at prices you’ll appreciate. And with an array of better for you products that don’t require tons of prep, hosting is easier than ever. Fresh Thyme has a wide assortment of products that fit any healthy lifestyle—organic, gluten-free, plant-based, non-GMO, and more. They've got you covered from everything to

Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream has plenty of options to make your holiday even tastier. Seasonal ice cream flavors include peppermint, peppermint bark, cinnamon, pumpkin, eggnog, sufganiyot, and chanukah cookie. Other treats include sundaes, shakes, malts, Dipity Dough (custom ice cream sandwiches), dipstix, poffertjes (tiny dutch pancakes), holiday bon bons and more. Gift cards are available. Ask about catering and parties. Their new location is now open in The Grove beginning at 8 a.m. with a new breakfast menu that includes craft coffee, fresh pastries and bagels.

4400 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314.833.3800, serendipity-icecream.com

If you’ve never been to Olympia Kebob House & Taverna before, the first thing you’re going to hear about is the flaming cheese, or saganaki. Your friends will say you’ve got to order it, and they’ll be correct. Watching the server light slices of brandy-soaked kasseri aflame is fun, and the cheese itself is delicious. But as the trick is repeated at tables around you, the ritual inspires moments of communal joy that have been in short supply in recent times.

A busy night at Olympia is a heady experience, with diners huddled around tables that heave with shareable Greek dishes – kebabs, moussaka, spanakopita –servers coming and going, and exuberant conversation filling the room. Diners of all ages – families with young children, older couples, twenty-something friends – seem effortlessly and enthusiastically in sync, contributing equally to the electric ambiance.

“That’s the element that the customers themselves bring,” said co-owner George Nicholas. “It’s like an, ‘If you build it, they will come,’ kind of thing – create the right atmosphere, get the right food, and the people do the rest.”

The Nicholas family has been fostering these moments at Olympia for 42 years now. George’s grandfather, Pete, purchased the building in the 1940s, having left his home in Rhodes, Greece, during World War II. On one side of the first-floor space, Pete operated a laundromat. For decades, he rented the other side to various businesses. “I’ve heard a lot of different things,” said Nicholas. “That it was an Indian restaurant, I heard it was a hardware store, a Kroger.”

In 1980, Pete’s son (and George’s father), George Nicholas Sr., inspired by a trip to Greece, had an idea. “He said, ‘Well,

why don’t we open up a souvlaki shack?’” Nicholas said. Pete agreed, and father and son opened Olympia, serving gyros, souvlaki and more. Pete’s cousin Marietta provided recipes that are still in use today. “She didn’t speak a whole lot of English; she would be in the back, and she made all the Greek specialties,” Nicholas said.

George Sr. passed away in 2018, leaving George and his brother Christopher in charge of the restaurant. However, several of Olympia’s key features are a permanent tribute to George Sr.’s resourcefulness. The restaurant’s booths feature an ecumenical assortment of pews he scavenged from disused and dilapidated churches around the city. “I don’t know if he was going for a certain aesthetic or if it was cheap seating,” Nicholas said. “He just took a church pew, cut it in half and bolted it to the wall.” After

Pete closed the laundromat in the 1990s, George Sr. expanded Olympia, converting the laundromat space into a lounge which features a stunning bar, another salvaged item. “I was told that it came out of a men’s clothing store,” Nicholas said.

Nicholas describes an average weekend night in Olympia as “chaotic,” but he said that’s the way his customers like it. “I’ve had customers come in from back in the day and be like, ‘Oh, we used to come in and your father and your grandfather would be screaming at each other.’ … And they loved it,” he said. “They thought, ‘This is a real family restaurant.’”

The staff also takes time out to enjoy and share the kind of communal moments, of reflection and of delight, that they deliver for customers. “We sit around this table, we just had a toast to my dad, just the other night, recalling all these memories,” Nicholas said. “That’s what this is about. It’s not about the food, it’s not about the cost of goods and all that stuff. It’s just about the people.”

Still only 33 years old, Nicholas said he and Christopher want to make sure Olympia stays relevant in a competitive industry, but they also have a firm sense of duty to the restaurant’s long-term customers. “It means a lot to so many of our customers that we’re here to be a constant in their lives,” he said. “I have a responsibility to my family to be here because they all take a lot of pride in the restaurant, and to our customers, because they have so many memories here.”

Nicholas said he thinks his father and grandfather would be proud to see where Olympia is today. “I think they’d have their own opinions and disagree with some of the changes maybe, but I think overall they’d be proud that we’re still opening the doors, we’re still welcoming customers, and we’re still here carrying on the legacy,” Nicholas said. “And we’re going to do it our way, whether they like it or not!”

1543 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.1299, olympiakebobandtavern.com

DAVID KOVALUK