October 2012

bringing home the harvest waf fles: an education · the nouveau eau bist ro · oktob er fest for herbivores s t. l2012 o u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y October

sau c e m aga zi n e .co m

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October 2012

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oc t o b e r 2 012 • VO LUM E 12, Issue 10 Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Julie Cohen Stacy Schultz Robert Severson Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Kristi Schiffman, Carmen Troesser CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Anne Marie Lodholz, Dan Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz, Beth Styles RELATIONS DIRECTOR Erin Keplinger OFFICE MANAGER Sharon Arnot ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Erin Keplinger SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE Angie Rosenberg ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES Erin Estopare, Rachel Gaertner, Jayson Gifford, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Angie Rosenberg ACCOUNT MANAGER Jill George

PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checker PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

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Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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contents October 2012

9 A La Carte

Reviews

34

17 new and notable: Eau Bistro Eau Bistro, Oh Yeah

by Michael Renner

21 dine on a dime: Sassy JAC’s Grandma Shows Her Sassy Side by anne marie and dan Lodholz

23 Nightlife: Livery Co. Posting Up at Livery Co.

by Matt Berkley

25 Cook’s books: Kevin Willmann’s Favorites

By Julie Cohen

Home cooking 27 What in the world: Kantola

features

by Ligaya Figueras

28 Vegetize it: Brats and Sauerkraut

by Beth Styles

30 One ingredient, 7 ways: Black Walnuts

34 Which Waffle should I get?

44 cover details

Whether you’re searching for the stack that will send you into a sugar coma or a little touch of salt to balance that sweet, we’re here

Black Walnuts Break out of their Shells

to help you find your waffle soul mate.

by Ligaya Figueras, Meera Nagarajan and Stacy

By Julie Cohen

Schultz

32 The New Classics Bistro 1130’s Shrimp and Grits

By Meera Nagarajan

Last course 48 Stuff to do this month

by Byron Kerman

50 Five questions for: Emilio Bombais

by Byron Kerman = recipe on this page

October 2012

36 Bringing home the harvest Push this year’s apple bounty beyond the pies and ciders of autumns past into exciting new territory.

BY Julie Cohen, Meera Nagarajan and Stacy Schultz

Freshly picked apples from Herman’s Farm and Orchard: p. 36

44 Monster stash

Photo by Carmen Troesser

Screw the tricks – this Halloween, it’s all about the tasty little treats.

the nouveau eau bistro: p. 17 oktoberfest for herbivores: p. 28 waffles: an education: p. 34

BY Julie Cohen

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TAKE THE TOUR | On page 12, we took you on a tasty tour of Forum Shopping Center and Chesterfield Plaza. From gyros to tacos, pad thai to burgers, this little intersection of Olive Boulevard and Highway 141 truly offers a bit of everything.

Want to see more? Head to the Slideshows section of SauceMagazine.com to check out even more photos of the Chesterfield stop.

TASTE THE DIFFERENCE | Black walnuts’ strong flavor turns many off at first bite. But when used correctly, Missouri’s state nut is a tasty little way to infuse a whole lot of flavor into everything from fish to ice cream. In this month’s 1 Ingredient, Many Ways column (page 30), we offered seven ways to use up your black walnut harvest. And now, we’re offering one more. Head to the Recipes section of SauceMagazine.com to see how to fold these pungent little walnuts into some very sweet dessert bars.

Photo by carmen troesser

Louis Brinckwirth, owner of Addie’s Thai House in Chesterfield, with his daughter, Catherine.

GET DISHIN’ | Since 2008, we’ve been sharing recipes for your favorite local dishes in our New Classics column (see page 32). But now we need to restock the coffer. Which classic dishes do you return to no matter how enticing the specials sound? What menu items dance through your daydreams on a daily basis? You provide the dishes, and we’ll provide the recipes – no matter how much begging and pleading we have to do to get them. To get your favorite on our list, just write on our Facebook wall or tweet us @SauceMagazine and tell us about your go-to dishes. Then, check out our print issue each month to see if your pick made it into our New Classics column. Got it? OK, get dishing!

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, October 12 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m., as we chat with Manila Bistro’s Emilio Bombais and Abbey’s Shell Corner Cafe owners Abbey Hernandez and Ammie Maminta-McSwain about the rise of authentic Filipino cuisine in St. Louis.

October 2012

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EAT THIS

If there’s a crab cake on a menu, chances are we’re ordering it. And if we’re at Remy’s kitchen & wine bar, we’re ordering it twice. The crab in the moroccan seasoned crab cake retains its natural sweetness thanks to the warming flavors of cardamom, cumin and cayenne but gets an edge from ginger and scallions. It arrives perched atop a sweet-and-sour slaw and striped with a briny horseradish and mustard sauce. We’ll take

Photo by greg rannells

one for now and one for, um, now.

Remy’s Kitchen & wine Bar • 222 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton • 314.726.5757 • remyskitchen.net

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best seat in the house Lobby Bar, Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark

One S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.421.1776, stlouisballpark.hilton.com

[beer] In Germany, October is festival season, and at no other time during the year are the beers from Germany in more demand here in the U.S. Next time you’re craving something from the land of steins and sauerkraut, give these a try.

– Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales

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Ayinger Oktober Fest-Märzen This seasonal brew pours a tawny honey with a frothy, eggshell-colored head that lasts forever. Aromas of cut hay, chopped nuts and honey cereal blend perfectly with the distinctive lager characteristics. The balanced sweetness and dry finish create a stellar Märzen.

Pinkus Organic Münster Alt Pale gold with a sticky foam that latches to the sides of the glass, this just might be my new favorite Altbier.

The peach bubblegum, spring flower and wet dough aromatics precisely complement the palate of tangy straw, white grapes and honey.

Erdinger Pikantus Weizen-Bock This Weizenbock, a strong wheat beer, was crafted to allow the higher alcohol to offset the richly toasted chestnut, cocoa powder and wheat backbone. A huge sandy-colored head tops a beautiful, mahogany-ruby beer that is delicious to even look at.

October 2012

photo by jonathan gayman

While we’re all for 12 in ’12, this October, we just might save our cash on playoff tix and head for the Hilton at the Ballpark instead. Grab a booth at the lobby bar, order a cold one and enjoy a nice little dose of Cardinals’ history, which adorns the walls in black and white glory. Will we be rooting on the Redbirds surrounded by former STL sluggers or drowning our sorrows of a playoff season that passed us by amidst the ghosts of past post-season greatness?

Only time will tell.

October 2012

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A Tour of Forum shopping Center and chesterfield plaza

The Sports Page

Classic Red Hots

KimCheese

The journey starts at an American sports bar, where flags hang from the walls, TVs blare SportsCenter, and a banner touts the “Border Wars” between the Tigers and Jayhawks. While you wait for The Original Burger – with cheddar, please – play a game of darts and a round of pool. Or just lean over the duo of juke boxes.

When your burger arrives, cooked just to temperature and dripping with natural juicy goodness, all it needs is a sprinkling of salt. Wash it down with a Bud (Here, the King of Beer still reigns.), or tap into the impressive Scotch collection. Don’t miss the vintage Coca-Cola machine on your way out.

You may assume Classic Red Hots is all about its Chicago-style hot dogs.

But ask the owners what they recommend, and they’ll steer you to the other side of the menu, where the classic Mediterranean dishes like moussaka and kibbeh they added last December can be found. The lamb gyro touts thick chunks of meat that are juicy, tender and laden with herbal, salty Mediterranean spices.

Make sure you leave room for dessert. Chocolate-filled and powdered sugardusted, the deep-fried Twinkie is the kind of lowbrow indulgence typically reserved for state fairs.

From the outside, the area’s newest dining option inside a converted Dairy Queen resembles the fast-food joints you expect in strip malls. But one bite of the spicy pork tacos or a forkful of bee bim bap and you’ll be transported from the lines of Taco Bell to the intersection of Korea and Mexico. A place where pico de gallo is made fresh daily, ground beef is traded in for rib-eye and bathed in a housemade Korean marinade, the fries are cut fresh when you order them, and your burrito comes with a side of locally made Billy Goat Chips.

13431 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 314.434.4115, thesportspage-barandgrill.com

41 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.878.4687, classicredhots.com

Addie’s Thai House

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Paull Manno’s, bee bim bap at Kimcheese, kua ped yang at Addie’s Thai House, lamb gyro at Classic Red Hots, The Original Burger at The Sports Page

Head to the Slideshows section of SauceMagazine. com to see more pics of this very tasty tour.

13435 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 314.485.1408

While it managed to slip under the radar when it

opened in 2009, once you discover this authentic ode to Thailand, you’ll drive back for your fix once a week. There’s something for everyone here, from the deconstructed Pad Thai for the beginner, to the suprisingly perfect gang kua ped yang (roasted duck curry) for the curious to the garlic-and-Thai-basilladen Spicy Eggplant for the herbivores. Feeling brave? Let the kitchen make your entree of choice “Thai hot” (aka a full tablespoon of chiles).

Then wash over your burning taste buds with The Original Raffles’ Singapore Sling.

13441 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 314.469.1660, addiesthaihouse.com

Koreana A few doors down and you’re in Korea – a quirky, throw-back to Korea, that is,

where patrons have been encouraged to belt out tunes to retro music videos for nearly two decades at this hidden haunt. The friendly bar staff will happily pour the standard shot or a stiff mixed drink of choice, fueling some Journey that’s audible from the parking lot until doors shutter around 1:30 a.m. Rent a private room for as little as $20 per hour.

amatricana you’re about to dig into: studded with crumbles of salsiccia and swimming in a simple sauce of white wine and good, Italian tomatoes. Finish the meal as if you were in Italy – with a tall glass of espresso gelato.

13455 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 866.942.4487, koreanastl.com

Jenny’s Diner

Paul Manno’s This family-owned Italian trattoria is beloved by locals as much for its campanelle de nonna as its ability to make you feel like you’re in the company of Tony Soprano himself. Walk through the walls lined with snapshots of chef Manno posing with the celebs who have twirled their forks around that same spaghetti

75 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.878.1274

Though this nine-month-old diner is known for its Reuben, it’s eggs any way you like ‘em all day long. The best part? The home fries: smashed onto a hot, oiled griddle until they’re little splats of crispy, browned, greasy happiness. Try ‘em dressed with smoked ham and onions in the Country Junction skillet.

45 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.548.1001 October 2012

Photos by CARMEN TROESSER

Been to Chesterfield lately? As you drive up the newly lined stretch of 141 to Olive Boulevard, you’ll find the Dierbergs you depend on, the Talayna’s pizza you’ve devoured time and time again. But peer across the street – behind the 7-11 – and behold handmade kimchi-topped tacos, curry-roasted duck and rustic Italian pastas you can’t help but slurp. It’s a trip around the world right here in the ‘burbs.

– Stacy Schultz

October 2012

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photo by greg rannells

Wish you had time to make a hearty breakfast for your family every morning?

Meet muesli, a granola-like cereal that puts a brainy breakfast on your family’s table all week long. The best part: It comes together while you sleep. To make 4 servings, toast 1½ cups of old-fashioned oats and ¼ cup of flaxseed on a baking sheet in a 350-degree oven until fragrant, about 5 to 7 minutes. Place the toasted cereal in a large bowl. Stir in 1¼ cups of milk (whatever you have in the fridge will do) and ¼ cup of honey, along with a pinch each of nutmeg and cinnamon. Let the mixture soak overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.

The next morning, scoop a serving into a bowl and top with a little grated apple, a few toasted almond slivers and a dollop of vanilla yogurt.

— Ligaya Figueras

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noted that he is trying to use his own flavors to create his own style. “Most people shy away from the V word because it’s too many dusty bottles on the bar,” he explained. “Cocchi [Americano], Antica Formula, Barolo Chinato: They are so embedded in ancient tradition that they don’t pay homage to the modern palate or style of modern cocktail making … Why use 200-year-old recipes?”

elixir Vermouth: Dusty No More

Before quality commercial vermouths were widely

available, industrious bartenders like Taste’s Ted Kilgore made their own. Now, other burgeoning bartenders around town are trying their hands at house-made versions of the fortified wine, putting another notch on their craft cocktail belts.

ABOVE: No. 1 at Little Country Gentleman, RIGHT: T.S. Ferguson, head barman at Little Country Gentleman

Five months ago, T.S. Ferguson began preparing blanc (dry white) and rouge (sweet red) vermouths at Medianoche, the evenings-only restaurant in Clayton that was recently replaced by another, Little Country Gentleman. While Ferguson was influenced

by France and Italy – the originators of vermouth – he

Then, there’s the L Word.

“Why not have a local product that is on par or better than the stuff sold in the stores?” he questioned. “The vermouth I make is pretty solid. I can alter the recipe depending on what I am doing. I can make a summery vermouth, fall vermouth, wintery vermouth.

It gives me complete control.”

As head barman at Little Country Gentleman, Ferguson is now offering his house-made vermouth in cocktails like No. 1, where it works in harmony with rye whiskey, Green Chartreuse, Calvados, Luxardo Fernet and Creole bitters.

Ferguson’s desire to offer apertifs that both fit within a 21st-century context and meet the demands for all things local

epitomizes the recent growth of the domestic vermouth market.

Artisanal U.S.-born vermouths like Imbue and Vya now sit on shelves at bar and liquor stores, with a handful more coming down the pipeline.

But Ferguson isn’t the only one itching to fiddle with a vermouth formula. This summer, Cory Cuff began making experimental batches of dry and sweet blanc, with hopes of soon serving them at Cielo.

Why go through the trouble?

“To push myself,” responded Cuff. “It’s for my development – and this bar’s development.

This is the next step.”

Justin Cardwell echoed a similar sentiment regarding the house-made sweet rouge he’s working on to soon appear in cocktails at BC’s Kitchen in Lake St. Louis, where he is the bar manager. “There are such well-made vermouths nowadays and aggressive pricing that make it almost inessential to have a house-made vermouth, especially when you have multiple styles and structures at your disposal. It’s something for the burgeoning bartender to learn the structure and technique and history.”

– Ligaya Figueras

Photos by laura miller

[wine] Glenn Bardgett, Annie Gunn’s wine director and a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, weighs in on which wines to drink this month. Check your favorite wine shop or liquor store for availability.

October 2012

Trinchero Meritage 2008, Napa Valley, Calif. Meritage rhymes with heritage and is a blend of up to five grape varieties honoring the incredible wines of Bordeaux. This Napa blend has four of the five: 73-percent cabernet sauvignon, 14-percent merlot, 8-percent petit verdot and 5-percent cabernet Franc, missing only the famed Malbec. Break out the big bucks for this world-class, luscious and stylish red for around $50.

Tahuan (Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu) Bonarda 2010, Mendoza, Argentina As with many of the wines of Argentina, the extensive Catena family is involved in the making of this estate-bottled Bonarda at the foothills of the Andes Mountains.

Bonarda is a full and rustic red for big, red meats and sauces. It’s grown in California under the name of Charbono (not to be confused with Sonny and Cher Bono), and this one’s $15 of fun.

Pasión de Bobal 2009, Utiel-Requena, Spain Even after dozens of years in the wine business, it still excites me to find an unknown grape (bobal) from a region totally new to me: Utiel-Requena.

Black fruit, red fruit, aroma, body and character in a $15 price range – this one’s just amazing. The wine world really is a happy series of discoveries.

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reviews One bite of the branzino sea bass, and you’ll know why fish accounts for half of Eau Bistro’s large plates.

The fillet is accompanied by stewed artichokes and vegetable ratatouille, while curried mussels add complexity and flavor to the dish.

new and notable: eau bistro p. 17 dine on a dime: sassy jac’s p. 21 nightlife: livery co. p. 23 cook’s books: kevin willmann’s favorites p. 25

Eau Bistro, Oh Yeah

by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

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couple of issues ago, in a review of Nora’s at the Renaissance Hotel near the airport, I pointed out that many hotels have fine restaurants. Among them, I mentioned The Chase Park Plaza’s Eau Bistro, based on my 2004 review of the restaurant for another publication. That was back when the restaurant was searching for a new identity, when placing a hot rock in a bowl of dried spices and spritzing your mouth with fruit essence was the height of culinary showmanship and dining “experience.”

There have been other chefs since, and with turnovers came different approaches, from Gilbert’s cutting-edge sensory playfulness to Brian Hale’s straightforward American fare infused with Asian and European inspirations. With those different approaches often came confusion. This is a hotel restaurant after all; cooking too far outside the lines causes identity problems.

But that was then; this is now.

In May, Kyle Lipetzky was brought in as executive chef to oversee the hotel’s catering and restaurant divisions, including Eau Bistro and its trendy little brother, Café Eau. Lipetzky is comfortable in large operations, having spent many years at Scottsdale, Ariz.’s Camelback Inn and as chef de cuisine for The Phoenician, a highly rated hotel also in Scottsdale. Jason Paterno, who worked with Lipetzky at The Phoenician, is the bistro’s new chef de cuisine and, in July, the pair introduced new menus for both Eau eateries.

With only six “large plates,” three pastas and eight “small plates,” the bistro Eau Bistro, menu is smaller and more focused.

The Chase Park There’s an emphasis on local ingredients, Plaza Hotel, 212 predominately produce. The arugula N. Kingshigway salad – singing with candied pecans, sliced Blvd., St. Louis, peaches, chewy bacon lardons, and smooth 314.633.3000, and mild goat cheese – came with light and chaseparkplaza.com fluffy triangles of peach tart, like a little taste of dessert on your salad plate. A small plate presented beets with red, golden and striped varieties alternately stacked and topped with burrata.

A stripe of chestnut emulsion and a bit of lemon zest October 2012

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review new and notable: Eau Bistro

Eau Bistro has always rolled its own pasta, but when Kyle Lipetzky took over the kitchen in May, he turned to his Italian bent to make the house-made pastas truly shine. Here, tender chunks of lobster and fresh peas swim in a creamy sauce with freshly made gnocchi.

carb bombs like polenta (very good creamy, stone-ground polenta with mascarpone and Parmigiano-Reggiano) and Yukon potato purèe. Mushrooms roasted with garlic and thyme round out the selection.

punctured the earthy flavors of the beets and mildness of the cheese with tangy brightness.

Carrot bisque was thick and poured warm by the server from a pitcher into a bowl redolent of crème fraîche, ginger, fines herbes and chopped dates.

sweet cipollini onions. Agnolotti consisted of six plump pillows stuffed with ricotta and topped with roasted corn. One bite in and you realize there is a lot of satisfaction going on with this dish: the crunchy pop of the sweet corn, the creamy texture of the cheese, the chewiness of the pasta and the spicy, salty, savory meld of black pepper and chive.

The kitchen still rolls out its own pasta dough, and the gnocchi didn’t suffer from over boiling, as is often the risk with these little doughy potato darlings. The basic comfort factor of the dish was further elevated by a light, creamy ricotta sauce that didn’t overpower the chunks of fresh Maine lobster, sweet and tender English peas, or

Where Eau Bistro, The Chase Park Plaza Hotel, 212 N. Kingshigway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.633.3000, chaseparkplaza.com

Of the six large plates, half are fish (It is Eau Bistro after all.). It’s good to see branzino sea bass on the menu (no relation to the endangered Chilean sea bass), whose texture and mild flavor take well to grilling.

Here, a large, extremely fresh fillet gets the

Don’t Miss Dishes Ricotta gnocchi, branzino sea bass, Berkshire pork chop

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Provençal treatment, with artichoke barigoule (stewed artichoke hearts) and a ratatouille of vegetables including pattypan squash, green beans, potatoes and black olives. A smattering of curried black mussels provided a deep tone of flavor and contrast. A large bone-in, wellseasoned Berkshire pork chop is the way to go when feeling primal. This was another dish with a lot going on and, like most dishes at Eau Bistro, it was worth pausing a moment to take it all in before picking up your fork. The long rib bone was cut out and planted like a stake in a bed of peppery, chewy farro on which the chop rested – perfect for gnawing on later. A schmear of mustard with pearl onions atop, a few slices of grilled peaches, and the succulent juices of the meat blending with the farro all made for belly-patting satisfaction. My only complaint: Though it was suggested, and I requested, my chop medium, it arrived closer to the well side of the temperature range, lacking the blushing pinkness I love about good pork.

Of the three sides under the To Share section of the menu, it’s odd that two are

Vibe Casual but not like its trendy brother across the hall. Think relaxed with a touch of subdued elegance.

Desserts are rather standard, but when it comes to crème brûlée, I rarely resist.

And when a serving boasts three flavors, well, the decision was easy. Three hollow eggshells positioned in a martini glass half-filled with sugar each contain vanilla-, lavender- or butterscotch-flavored custards. While it was a fun and whimsical presentation – and the custard was dense and creamy – the flavors were uniform: They all tasted like vanilla.

The dining room is seductive and sensual with lofty, airy ceilings; parchment-covered light fixtures; and capacious C-shaped booths made for intimate sidling. The décor hasn’t changed since it was revamped in 2000, when Eau Bistro replaced the stodgy Hunt Room, but it still looks fresh.

The soundtrack of classic jazz – Bird, Miles, Coltrane – lends an air of sophistication.

Eau Bistro’s menu reflects changing dining trends: a simplified menu, emphasis on “plates,” less oh’s and ah’s (You won’t find foams or essence of fruit spritzers here.). But some things have remained – most notably Sunday Brunch, the chef’s table and an internationally-focused wine list – proving that while the only constant is change, there’s nothing wrong with a little constancy.

Entree Prices Small plates and pastas: $8 to $16; large plates: $25 to $34

When Breakfast: Mon. to Sat. – 6 to 10:30 a.m. Brunch: Sun. – 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 5 to 10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m.

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review

Grandma Shows Her Sassy Side

dine on a dime: sassy jac’s

by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz | photos by Greg Rannells

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Sassy JAC’s, 1730 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.932.1280, sassyjacs.com

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At his casual new eating and drinking spot, chef Andrew Ladlie is hoping to serve big food with big flavor or, as he put it, “the comfort food that Grandma made – but better.” Ladlie, a former sous chef at Annie Gunn’s, explained that Sassy JAC’s southern influence comes from the time he and his wife, Jennifer, spent working in New Orleans, as well as Jennifer’s family who hails from Savannah, Ga. So, what happens when you flip Grandma’s recipe box on its head? You find greens, beans and a whole lot of southern hospitality.

October 2012

A SALAD WORTH THE SPOTLIGHT On a cool, fall day, creamy potato soup hit the spot, boasting hunks of potato poached in a rich broth of milk, cream and buttery roux. A molten layer of smoked Gouda capped things off with welcome flavor complexity. But it’s the Muffaletta Salad we’ll be coming back for. A light oil-and-vinegar dressing drew our attention to the garnish of prosciutto chips, perched proudly atop the mound of quality greens, house-made croutons, Kalamata olives, Volpi Genoa salami, giardiniera and just the right amount of smoked Gouda.

A GOOD START (1) Fried dill pickle spears offered a decent crunch – the batter just thick enough to lend structure but not overwhelm – and were served in a playful Lincoln Log design with a side of ranch and sticky sweet house-made jalapeño-watermelon barbecue sauce. Equally addictive were the

(2) Crawfish Fritters: battered, deep-fried and misshapen just enough to remind you they’re handmade. A bit more heat in the roasted pepper aioli, a touch of salt and a quick squeeze of lemon juice in the creamy coleslaw, and this plate would be flawless.

The Black-Eyed-Pea Pancakes, however, were less successful. Ladlie achieved a great consistency with the cakes, mashing enough of the peas to create a lovely creaminess in the cakes while leaving others whole to retain their structure and coloring.

But the accompanying maple-soy glaze was a confusing flavor combination. The dish might be better served as a savory number.

Oysters are ordered fresh daily, and their preparation changes seasonally. A twist on the shallot and sherry vinegar sauce traditionally served in French cafes, our halfshells – from Massachusetts one evening – arrived dressed in a watermelon mignonette that was refreshing, light and just a touch sweet. A bit more vinegar would elevate it even further.

Sublime Sandwiches The Crawfish Salad and (3) Monte Cristo sandwiches were delicious contradictions.

The former kept things simple: just hearty chunks of crawfish lightly dressed with mayo, topped with crisp romaine and a decent tomato on buttery brioche.

While the latter is still seared into our consciousness, what with those slices of smoky, country ham gently warmed and

served with house-preserved pear slices and Jarlsberg. The Alpine cheese coupled with the warming sweetness of cinnamon and luscious pear kept things cozy.

soulful Sides Absolutely nothing was wrong with the collard greens, which were slow-cooked in bacon, sweet onions, garlic and housemade chicken broth for four and a half hours and finished with a touch of vinegar.

The leaves retained their delicate curl but melted in your mouth just so. They were stiff competition for the creamed corn, which had been lazily reducing with butter and cream for hours. Its silky texture led us to devour those kernels just as fast as we popped the house-made chips: fried just right and dusted with coarse sea salt.

WASHING IT DOWN The bar serves simple cocktails, decent wines by the glass and bottle, A-B products, Fat Tire and a few Schlafly labels, but it’s Jennifer’s southern hospitality that makes you want to stick around for another. This is Soulard, after all.

THE TAKEAWAY: Don’t tell Grandma, but Ladlie’s comfort food just might surpass his goal. However, with Sassy JAC’s soulful eats, simple drinks and laid-back atmosphere, this might actually be a place you can bring Grandma along (just not for Mardi Gras). saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

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review nightlife: Livery Co.

Posting Up at Livery Co.

by Matt berkley

order it:

bitters? The beer list boasts a handful of independent labels and hipster classics alike: Stag, PBR, High Life, Lagunitas IPA, Anchor Steam Beer and Angry Orchard Cider (the last being the only draft offering).

bar photo by kristi schiffman; drink photos by jonathan gayman

F

or years Cherokee Street has clung tightly to its calling as the hottest little out-of-the-way food district.

Staple taquerias like La Vallesana and El Bronco, along with newcomers like Tower Taco, provide authentic Mexican fare to diners who avoid the cookie cutter Mexican “platos especials” and opt instead for dishes like cow tongue sprinkled with cilantro and onion and folded into housemade corn tortillas. Recently, Cherokee’s alcohol offerings have blossomed as well, steadily drawing hipsters to decamp from their apartments to toss back a few.

This summer, El Leñador, the German knackwurst hall-turned-nightclub and underground music sensation, gained an equally edgy neighbor in Livery Co. Meant to evoke the spirit of prohibition and the dawn of the cocktail age, Livery Co. styles itself not so much a speakeasy as a vintage dive bar that offers fine wine, an aromatic brew or a delicately crafted October 2012

Livery Co.

While the classic cocktail joint setup Livery Co., 3211 works well at and Cherokee St., St. Louis, behind the bar, the Facebook: Livery 1920s-style feel Company is conspicuously absent. The haphazard decor has the all-too-familiar hallmarks of an indie-rock dive bar. A small stage sitting in the front window serves as a centerpiece, filled on occasion by guitar-strumming open-mic’ers and karaoke fans. The yellow walls are lined with random posters, knickknacks, 3-D paperclip art, even an oversized world map (seemingly torn from someone’s dorm room wall). The smoking area out back (essentially a parking lot) is likewise thrown together, with random chairs and an awkwardly placed fire pit.

Also a bit out of place is the offering of pizzas. Though food is always appreciated, it is exceedingly hard to justify this addition in what is being touted as a prohibitioncocktail. Does it succeed? Yes and no. The style cocktail house. bar itself is a winner: classic, well-arranged and intelligently stocked. From behind Who you’ll meet frittering away at Livery’s an attractive handmade oak bar that was bar or puffing on a cigarette on the blacktop crafted by one of the owner’s fathers out back will vary. The place has the feel of (new yet stylishly weathered), a bartender an exclusive house party catered to a closeeagerly mixes up tall mixtures of spirits knit group of friends – the kind primarily from a short stack of small-batch liquors. made up of young artists along with all Fans of standard hooch – i.e. Jack Daniels, stripes of 20-something South Grand, Smirnoff, Jäger – will no doubt be put Benton Park and Tower Grove residents off. Too bad for them. More adventurous continuing in their constant quests for cheap drinkers can take sublime pleasure in the PBR and hip watering holes. half dozen or so rotating cocktail specials proudly chalked over the bar. Classic Livery Co. is hardly the ideal venue for an ex cocktails are done up well here with no frat-boy sporting a Polo shirt. But with an frills. Standouts include the Pimm’s Cup, imaginative drink menu, generous pours and a popular European drink and signature a knowledgeable staff, it’s a welcome change offering at Livery Co. that blends Pimms of pace. It’s hard to say what will become liquor with 7-Up, lemonade and a of this scrappy little Cherokee newcomer, cucumber garnish. For something more which still needs to come to terms with its substantial in terms of alcohol, might I theme and décor. But overall, it’s smart, suggest a Winchester, which couples a carefree and just on the edge of conceited trio of gins with grapefruit juice, lime, St. – a perfect combination of traits for this Germaine, grenadine, ginger syrup and neighborhood.

Livery replaces the usual spirit suspects with an impressive lineup of small-batch liquors. They get poured into cocktails like a classic Pimm’s Cup (top) and the Winchester (middle), which pairs a trio of gins with grapefruit juice, St. Germain, grenadine, ginger syrup and bitters.

Prefer suds over spirits? Opt for a glass of Angry Orchard Cider for a taste of fall fresh from the tap.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

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review

4 Books For Making the Most of Fall’s Harvest

Cook’s books: kevin willmann’s favorites

Between keeping up with his ever-changing menu and winning heaps of awards, chef Kevin Willmann has stayed busy since opening Farmhaus in 2010. Willmann’s faithful use of seasonal ingredients makes him the obvious guru on how to not let fall’s bounty go to waste. With his recommendations, you can stock up on all the apples, cranberries and pumpkins your hoarding heart desires. — Julie Cohen James Beard’s American Cookery

by James Beard “This has great preserves recipes and a great recipe for chow-chow that we modify.”

Chez Panisse Fruit and Chez Panisse Vegetables by Alice Waters “There are a lot of pickled recipes here – a great pickled watermelon recipe that we are actually doing right now. There are also good base recipes that we can push to other things.”

The Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-doux

by Paul Virant and Kate Leahy “We really look up to these guys. They preserve like crazy and give great techniques. They have always been an inspiring place for us.”

A tip: “My wild card book is any church lady annual. You know, the collaborative cookbooks; I can’t walk by one of those books without checking it out.”

photo by carmen troesser

As temperatures drop, the thought of standing over a hot stove sounds like a lovely way to spend an afternoon. And with fall’s harvest upon us, the compulsion to cook couldn’t come at a better time. Here are a few books to help you savor every bit of this season’s harvest. Every Tuesday on the blog at SauceMagazine.com, check out By the Book where we cook and share recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your collection. – Julie Cohen

October 2012

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what in the world: kantola p. 27 vegetize it: brats and sauerkraut p. 28 one ingredient, 7 ways: black walnuts p. 30 the new classics: shrimp and grits p. 32

what in the world is

Kantola?

Also known as Indian teasel gourd, kantola is the Hindi name for a mildly bitter, bright green gourd with an outer layer of soft spines. Although pricy when bought fresh in the U.S., the oval-shaped vegetable is affordable in frozen form at Indian groceries.

Use it: Quarter the kantola, then make a sabji, a dish comprised of a vegetable sauteed with Indian spices. Add kantola when preparing dal, or slowly roast it to take advantage of its dense, meaty texture.

Buy it: Seema Enterprises, 10635 Page Ave., Maryland Heights, 314.423.9990 and 14238 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.391.5914, seemaent.com – Ligaya Figueras

Kantola Sabji Adapted from a recipe by Seema Enterprises’ Jagruti Desai 4 Servings photo by greg rannells

½ white onion 12 oz. kantola 2 Tbsp. canola oil ½ tsp. mustard seeds ¼ tsp. asafetida (hing)* ¼ tsp. turmeric October 2012

¼ tsp. ground coriander ¼ tsp. ground cumin ¼ tsp. (or less) ground red pepper Kosher salt to taste • First, prepare the onion: Slice it into thin half-rings.

Then, cut the slices in half. Set aside.

• If using fresh kantola, cut the vegetable in half lengthwise, then quarter each half. If using frozen kantola, let it thaw.

(Frozen kantola is usually sold pre-cut.)

• Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and coat with oil. Once the oil has warmed, add the mustard seeds and asafetida.

• When the mustard seeds begin to pop, add the kantola, stirring to coat.

Cover the skillet with a lid, stirring periodically to prevent the kantola from scorching or sticking to the pan, for about 5 to 7 minutes.

• Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the turmeric, coriander, cumin, red pepper and salt.

• When the kantola begins to turn golden, add the spices and onion to the skillet. Stir to combine.

• Cook until the onion is golden and the flavors meld, about 2 to 3 minutes.

• Serve as a side dish with dal, paratha (Indian flatbread) or rice, and chutney.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

home cooking Vegetize it: Brats and sauerkraut

Oktoberfest: All of the Beer, None of the Brawn

BY Beth Styles • Photo by Kristi schiffman

O

ne of my favorite stories involving my husband’s family revolves around the beerdrinking, brat-eating celebration that is Oktoberfest and cousin Dave, whom I’ve never met, but am assured is a real person living somewhere in Missouri. When mid-October rolled around, Dave, being of proud German heritage, would pick a Friday to have the whole family over to his house in the country for a party.

Guests were asked to abide by two simple rules: No beer fancier than Budweiser and no food fancier than bratwurst.

Everyone drank and ate their way into the wee hours, and when Dave woke up late Saturday morning, he’d drag himself to the kitchen and fix the quickest breakfast he could muster: crumbled leftover bratwurst sprinkled over Corn Flakes and moistened with a can of Bud – something he liked to call “the breakfast of champions.”

Now, as pleasant a picture as cousin Dave paints, I think we can honor this traditional German sausage a wee bit better – even if it is a pork-less protégé.

My first concern when vegetizing this dish was getting the texture right. I knew I’d be using vital wheat gluten, a natural protein that is extracted from wheat and, when added to dishes, creates what can only be called an elastic texture. But that alone isn’t enough to help these brats keep their figure. And as my kitchen lacks a casing machine, I turned to a technique I’d seen several times before in which you roll a portion of the brat mixture in foil to achieve a sausage-like shape, and then steam them into submission.

I wondered if there was a similar process that would infuse more flavor into the brats. “Why yes, there is,” the little chef on my shoulder chimed in. “Use some cheesecloth.” Brilliant! Its sieve-like weave would allow the steam to penetrate the brats. And then I remembered Dave’s loyal Budweiser. But for my Oktoberfest feast, I’d go German. A quick chat with the beer expert at Lukas Liquor led me to a hefeweissbier and an eisbock.

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October 2012

Each beer lent great flavor to the brats, so choose whichever pleases your palate.

Keep in mind that the booze isn’t the only ingredient carrying the weight of flavor in this dish. Its helpers include a tasty bratwurst seasoning that boasts salt, white pepper, yellow mustard, nutmeg and white onion.

To the mix, I added marjoram, allspice, cardamom and celery seed, but sub in whichever flavors you like in sausage. For sweet complexity, throw in some fennel seed.

Want something sharper? Add a little ginger.

For the base of the brat mixture, I used a ground pork substitute that gave the brats a marbled look – a detail that made this meatless mascaraed even more convincing.

As far as serving, you can go the traditional route by plating your brats with some sauerkraut and an array of mustards for dipping. But if you like buns, better make sure they’re big. I found some at G&W Sausage that were made by Black Bear Bakery. They certainly held up their end of the meal – one for which even cousin Dave might consider trading in his Corn Flakes.

Vegetarian Bratwurst 6 7-ounce bratwursts 1 cup white kidney beans 2 cups milk 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. garlic powder 2 Tbsp. bratwurst seasoning* 2 tsp. allspice 2 tsp. ground celery seed 1 tsp. ground cardamom 2 tsp. dried majoram 1½ tsp. salt 2½ cups Bob’s Red Mill vital wheat gluten flour** 1 cup Match ground pork** Cheesecloth 3 bottles German beer 3 cups fresh sauerkraut*** Hot German mustard*** Medium German mustard*** Bavarian sweet mustard*** Weiner buns*** October 2012

• Purée the kidney beans in a food processor until smooth.

• Transfer to a bowl and stir in the next 9 ingredients (through salt).

• Mix in the wheat gluten flour.

• Add the ground pork substitute and, with your hands, work the mixture together until combined.

• Tear off a foot-long piece of foil and cut 6 foot-long strips of cheesecloth.

• Using a scale, divide the brat mixture into 6 equal portions and form each into a rough bratwurst shape. Place 1 brat across the foil at the end nearest you.

Roll the foil up tightly, keeping pressure on it with the palms of your hands.

• Take a piece of cheesecloth and unfold it into a single layer. Unroll the foil-wrapped brat (Reserve the foil piece, as you’ll use it for the other brats.), and place the brat atop the unfolded cheesecloth. Roll the brat firmly, but not too tight or the mixture will push through the holes.

Once rolled, twist the ends of the cheesecloth and tuck them underneath to help the brat keep its shape. Repeat with remaining brats.

• Bring 2 bottles of beer to a boil in a large saucepot. Reduce the heat to medium-low and fit a steamer basket inside.

• Place the brats in the steamer basket, followed by the saucepot lid. Steam the brats for 40 minutes or until they’re set. If the beer gets low, open the third bottle, remove the steamer basket and pour half the bottle into the saucepot.

Once the foam subsides, replace the brat-filled basket, recover and continue steaming.

• Once the brats are cooked, remove them from the basket and place on a platter.

Unroll them from the cheesecloth.

• Serve with warm sauerkraut, mustard and buns. * Available at Penzeys, penzeys.com ** Available at most Dierbergs locations, dierbergs.com *** Available at G&W Sausage, gwsausage.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29

home cooking one ingredient, 7 ways: black walnuts

Black Walnuts Break Out of Their Shells

By Ligaya Figueras, Meera Nagarajan and Stacy Schultz | photo by carmen troesser

I

ntensely pungent, black walnuts aren’t for everyone. But balance their bitterness with super-sweet desserts, embrace their earthiness with fall squashes and let them lend complexity to full-flavored fish, and you’ll soon understand why people go, um, nuts for Missouri’s state nut.

1. Butter To follow chef Josh Galliano’s recipe, soak 1 pound black walnuts in 2 quarts hot water for 30 minutes. Drain and lay flat on a baking tray. Toast walnuts in 400-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes, being sure not to burn them. Place toasted nuts in a food processor with 1 teaspoon salt, 5 tablespoons sorghum molasses*, 5 tablespoons canola or walnut oil, 3 tablespoons Buffalo Trace bourbon and, if desired, 10 drops Terra Spice Bourbon Extract**. Pulse until smooth.

Pack walnut butter into 3 8-ounce sterilized jars, eliminating air pockets. Place 1 to 2 tablespoons of canola or walnut oil atop walnut butter. Cap jars and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. * Available at Local Harvest Grocery, localharvestgrocery.com ** Available at terraspice.com

3. Roasted nuts Bake ¾ cup each of almonds, cashews and black walnuts in 350-degree oven for 10 minutes. In a bowl, combine 2 tablespoons freshly chopped rosemary, ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, 2 teaspoons each of sea salt and dark brown sugar, and 1 tablespoon melted, unsalted butter. Toss nuts with spices while still hot and serve.

30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

5. Rice In a medium saucepan, bring 2½ cups chicken broth to a boil. Stir in ¾ cup wild rice, reduce heat, cover and simmer until just tender, about 45 minutes. In a large skillet, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Saute ½ cup chopped onion and 1 minced garlic clove until onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes.

Add 1 cup sliced mushrooms, ½ cup chopped black walnuts, ¼ cup each of chopped red and yellow bell peppers. Cook for 3 minutes.

Gently stir in wild rice and 2 teaspoons freshly chopped oregano. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Stuffed squash Cut an acorn squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Rub each half with oil and sprinkle with salt. Lay on a foil-lined baking sheet cut-side down and bake in 350-degree oven for 30 minutes. Flip and bake for 20 minutes. Prepare ½ cup couscous with chicken broth. Over medium-high heat, saute ½ cup chopped shiitake mushrooms in 1 tablespoon unsalted butter just until soft. Remove from heat.

Add 2 tablespoons butter to pan and saute ¼ cup each of chopped carrots, chopped celery and chopped onions just until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon each of freshly minced sage and freshly minced thyme. Saute for 1 minute. Add 2 handfuls fresh spinach and saute until wilted.

Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat. Season inside of each squash with salt, pepper and minced thyme and sage. Fill each squash with half the couscous and filling and 2 tablespoons chopped black walnuts. Cover with foil. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Pesto In food processor, combine 1½ cups tightly packed fresh arugula, ¼ cup black walnuts, ¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes marinated in olive oil (drained), ¼ cup Parmesan cheese and 1 garlic clove. Pulse gently. Add ¹∕³ cup olive oil and pulse to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Fish Rinse and pat dry 6 catfish fillets. In shallow dish, beat together ¼ cup milk and 1 egg. In another dish, combine 2 cups cornmeal, ¼ cup finely pulsed black walnuts, ¹∕³ cup freshly chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon salt and up to 3 teaspoons 33rd & Galena Chicken and Pork Rub***. Dip fillets in egg-milk mixture and coat both sides in cornmeal mix. Pan-fry in 1

tablespoon canola oil for 2 minutes per side, or until golden. *** Available at Penzeys Spices, penzeys.com

Pick up a 1-pound bag of black walnuts for $15 at Mound City Shelled Nut Co. 7831 Olive Blvd., St. Louis, 314.725.9040, moundcity.com.

7. Ice cream Toast ¹∕³ cup chopped black walnuts in 350-degree oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Melt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter in heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add ¾ cup granulated sugar to butter and swirl until mixture is dark amber. Remove from heat and carefully add 1 cup heavy cream, whisking until smooth. Add ½ teaspoon vanilla extract, pinch of salt and ½ cup maple syrup to the mixture and cook on low until combined. Transfer the caramel to heatproof container and stir in toasted nuts. Cool completely. Soften 1½ quarts vanilla ice cream. In a separate container, spoon in 1½ cups ice cream and 2 tablespoons caramel. Repeat until all ice cream and caramel are used. Swirl layers with a skewer. Freeze until ready to use.

October 2012

October 2012

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home cooking the new classics: Shrimp and Grits Shrimp and grits are everywhere it seems, but none is quite like the version on Bistro 1130’s brand new Sunday brunch menu. Blackened jumbo shrimp, cooked to tender perfection, flank a steaming bowl of cheesy grits laden with bold chorizo. Warm and comforting, it’s a dish that’ll make you want to curl up in bed for a seriously lazy rest of your day.

– Meera Nagarajan

Blackened Shrimp and White Cheddar Grits Courtesy of Bistro 1130’s Kevin Taylor, Jr. 4 Servings

• Bring the milk to a boil in a mediumsized pot. Once boiling, add the salt and grits and simmer for 40 minutes.

• Meanwhile, evenly coat the shrimp with the blackening seasoning.

• Add the olive and canola oils and butter to a cast iron skillet set over high heat.

When the butter begins to brown, add the shrimp and cook for 3 minutes on each side. Remove from heat.

• Squeeze the lemon over the shrimp and let them rest.

• Add the chorizo to the cast iron skillet and saute until cooked through. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Right before serving, stir the cheddar into the grits until fully incorporated.

• Divide the grits among 4 bowls. Top each bowl with 4 shrimp.

• Garnish with fresh basil, tomatoes and crumbled chorizo.

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Photo by jonathan gayman

3 cups milk 1 Tbsp. salt 1 cup uncooked grits 2 lb. 10/12 count tiger shrimp 2 oz. blackening seasoning blend 1 oz. olive oil 1 oz. canola oil 1 oz. butter 1 lemon 4 oz. ground chorizo 8 oz. grated white cheddar Fresh basil for garnish Vine-ripened tomatoes for garnish

October 2012

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33

which waffle should I get? start here Sure, there were the parties, the booze, the learning experiences, but what excited us most about college was the cafeteria waffle station. Freshman 15 aside, we were seriously addicted. And when we grew tired of the syrups and sugary fruit sauces, we pushed our waffles to the next level, adding cheeses, dried fruits, ice cream, and even Cinnamon Toast Crunch to our favorite carby canvas.

But as the years passed and the bucket of premade batter disappeared with the handing over of that diploma, our love for waffles became relatively dormant. Until now. Waffles are back – and they’re popping up on menus everywhere from late-night clubs to lazy morning brunches. With endless possible combinations, there’s no telling where restaurants will take these disc-shaped canvases next. One thing’s for sure, though: If you’re gonna go waffles, you may as well go big. Whether you’re searching for the stack that will send you into a sugar coma or a little touch of salt to balance that sweet, we’re here to help you find your waffle soul mate.

34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

YES Salty, sweet, repeat.

like salt with your sweet? no

lola

yes bit of a food snob?

NO I reserve my snobbery for other areas of my life.

gimme sweet

Bipartisanism is ruining America.

gimme salty

YES Duh. Always.

yes Do you shop at the farmers market?

brasserie

yes How about some fruit?

YES It’s 5 o’clock somewhere.

Maybe you’re not a food snob after all

no

NO I’d like to keep my arteries clean, thank you.

Want a stiff drink with that waffle?

NO But I think I lost one last night.

Wearing your dancing shoes?

Raise your own chickens? no yes

wow, you really are a food snob

Believe bacon makes everything better?

YES

NO – Easy, pusher, it’s not even noon.

NO This is my cheat day; leave me alone.

dressed to impress?

yes

no

bellinis your drink of choice?

martinis

October 2012

waking up or winding down?

down

up

yes

too snobby to eat with your hands?

hazelnut waffle crème fraîche, seasonal fresh fruit compote, hazelnuts. $8. Brasserie by Niche, 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com, Saturday and Sunday brunch only

no You really just want a McGriddle, don’t you?

melt

olivette diner

wafflelicious

Bananas Foster Waffle waffle, housemade banana-brown sugar-cinnamon sauce, vanilla ice cream. $6. Olivette Diner, 9638 Olive Blvd., St. Louis, 314.995.9945 Lovin’ Nutella liege waffle, Nutella, fresh strawberries, house-made vanilla whipped cream, chocolate sauce. $5.65. Waffle-licious, 291 Chesterfield Mall – upper level kiosk, Chesterfield, 636.536.1924 and Clayton Farmers Market, 8282 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, May to November

plush chocolate

ice cream pick your poison

Wake and Bake bacon waffle, shredded cheddar, egg, syrup. $7.50. Melt, 7700 Ivory St., 314.638.6358

soho

October 2012

huh?

Photos by greg rannells

Oye, yes!

Craving Bubby’s bagel and lox?

The Elvis Waffles peanut butter crème, bacon, caramelized banana. $8. Lola, 500 N. 14th St., St. Louis, 314.621.7277, welovelola. com, Saturday and Sunday brunch only

Savory smoked tomato and cracked pepper waffle with salmon tomato and cracked pepper waffle, salmon, tomato-caper relish, house-made herbed cream cheese. $8. Plush, 3224 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.535.2686, plushstl.com

Chicken and Waffles crispy fried whole chicken wings, house-made waffle, spiced bourbon syrup. $12. SoHo, 4229 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5554, eatplaysoho.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

bringing home the harvest You’re feeling like a proud pilgrim with that bag of shiny apples you picked at the orchard (or out of that giant bin at the grocery store), but now what? Push that heap beyond the pies and ciders of autumns past and into exciting new territory. Stuffed with pork, smoothed into soup, fried into fritters, this year’s bounty is bound to be the best yet.

Compiled by Julie Cohen, Meera Nagarajan and Stacy Schultz | Photos by Carmen Troesser

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Apple Brie Toasts recipe on page 40

October 2012

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Pulled Korean BBQ Pork Apples recipe on page 40

October 2012

Shot on location at Herman’s Farm and Orchard, 3663 N. Highway 94, St. Charles, 636.925.9969, hermanfarm.com

October 2012

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

Carrot Apple Ginger Soup Courtesy of Home Wine Kitchen’s Cassy Vires 4 Servings 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 small yellow onion, sliced 2 Tbsp. freshly grated ginger 1 garlic clove, minced 1 small apple, peeled and sliced, plus additional for garnish 1½ cups sliced, peeled carrots 1 cup white wine 4 cups vegetable broth Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Pinch nutmeg Freshly chopped chives for garnish • Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until soft.

• Add the ginger and garlic and saute until fragrant.

• Add the apples and carrots, and cook until they begin to soften and brown.

• Deglaze the pot with the white wine, then add the vegetable broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and let simmer until the soup is flavorful and all of the vegetables are soft. Remove from heat and let cool.

• Once the soup has cooled, purée it in a blender and then return it to the pot.

Bring the soup back to a simmer and then adjust the seasoning as needed with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

• Garnish with fresh apple slices and chopped chives.

Apple Brie Toasts

1 cup raisins 1 lb. light brown sugar ¼ cup brandy 2 cups water 1 French baguette, sliced on a bias into 1 ∕8-inch-thick slices ¼ wheel of brie, cut into 1∕8-inch-thick slices • Preheat the broiler.

• Using a spice mill, grind the cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg together to a fine powder. Set aside.

• Heat a saute pan over high heat and add the apple slices and granulated sugar. Cook, stirring constantly until the apples turn a golden color, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the caramelized apples from the heat and set aside.

• In a separate saute pan, combine the dried fruits, brown sugar and spice mixture and saute over high heat until the sugar melts and the ingredients meld together.

• Add the brandy and flambé, being careful to step away from the stove.

When the flames die down, add the water.

• Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring constantly, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the sauce reduces to a thick honeylike consistency. Set aside.

• Place the French baguette slices on a foillined baking sheet. Top each slice with 1 slice of brie. Place the baking sheet under the broiler for 2 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and the bread is golden.

• Finally, assemble the toasts: Place 1 to 2 slices of caramelized apples onto each toast. Spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of the dried fruit mixture on top.

• Serve immediately.

Pulled Korean BBQ Pork Apples

Courtesy of Pomme Café and Wine Bar’s Josh Witte

Courtesy of Mosaic’s Ben Lester

10 Servings

4 Servings

2 Tbsp. whole cloves 2 Tbsp. ground cinnamon 2 Tbsp. crushed nutmeg 4 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 1∕8-inch-thick half moons ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ cup dried apricots, halved ½ cup dried figs, stemmed and halved ½ cup dried apples, stemmed 1 cup golden raisins

¾ cup paprika ¼ cup cumin ¼ cup chili powder 2 Tbsp. granulated garlic 2 Tbsp. onion powder ¼ lb. brown sugar 4 Tbsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 to 6 lb. boneless pork shoulder 2 Tbsp. Korean soy sauce

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4 garlic cloves, minced 4 Tbsp. Korean chili paste 1 pear, peeled, cored and puréed 2 Tbsp. honey 2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. brown sugar, divided 1 Tbsp. freshly minced ginger 2 Tbsp. mirin 4 Fuji apples ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon 2 Tbsp. butter 4 Tbsp. goat cheese for garnish 1 oz. roasted pistachios for garnish • Combine the first 8 ingredients (through black pepper) in a small bowl.

• Rub the pork shoulder liberally with the spice mixture and place in the refrigerator overnight.

• The following day, prepare the pork*: Using a smoker or barbecue, cook the pork shoulder according to the manufacturer’s directions using lump charcoal and ½ cup soaked and drained wood chips. Start the fire and bring the temperature of the smoker or barbecue to 225 degrees. Place the pork on a rack inside the smoker or barbecue. Cover and cook until a thermometer inserted into the meat registers 165 degrees, turning the pork every 45 minutes, for about 8 hours total, or until the meat is falling apart.

Add more charcoal as needed to maintain 225 degrees and more drained wood chips to maintain the smoke level.

Let the pork cool slightly and break it apart into chunks.

• Next, make the bulgogi: Add the Korean soy sauce, minced garlic, chili paste, pear purée, honey, 1½ teaspoons of brown sugar, minced ginger and mirin to a large pot. Stir until well combined.

• Add the smoked pork chunks to the bowl and simmer until the sauce is thick and the meat is glazed.

• Meanwhile, prepare the apples: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Cut the tops off of the apples just below the stem. Use a melon baller to scoop the flesh and core out of each apple, removing as much of the flesh as possible to just allow the apple to keep its shape.

• Thoroughly combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown sugar with the cinnamon and butter. Divide the butter mixture between the apples, filling each cavity with one-quarter of the mixture.

• Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the apples just begin to soften but retain their shape.

• To serve, divide the bulgogi-glazed pork among each apple cavity. Garnish each

apple with 1 tablespoon of goat cheese and ¼ ounce of roasted pistachios. * Alternatively, you can purchase pulled pork at finer area butchers.

Green Apple Potatoes Courtesy of Mosaic’s Ben Lester 4 to 6 Servings ¼ lb. butter 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored 3 garlic cloves, roasted and then peeled 2 lb. Red Bliss potatoes, quartered ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. salt, divided ½ cup heavy cream, plus additional as needed 4 sprigs freshly chopped thyme 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Place a knob of butter inside each apple.

Wrap the apples in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, or until soft. Remove from the oven and let cool.

• Once cool, place the apples in the bowl of a food processor, along with the roasted garlic cloves. Purée until smooth.

Set aside.

• Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. Add ¼ cup of salt, and bring the potatoes to a simmer.

Let simmer until they are easily pierced with a knife. Drain and add the potatoes to a large mixing bowl.

• Add the heavy cream, thyme, pepper and remaining tablespoon of salt to a medium sauce pot set over medium heat. Bring to a simmer. Immediately remove from heat and strain, reserving the cream.

• Add the warm cream to the bowl with the potatoes.

• Add the apple cider vinegar and the apple purée to the bowl and whip the potatoes until they are chunky yet combined. Adjust seasoning as needed.

• Serve warm.

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Apple Fritters with lemon curd Courtesy of Kelly English Steakhouse’s Kelly English 6 to 8 Servings ½ cup whole milk 1 tsp. vanilla 1 egg 2 Tbsp. butter, melted 1 Tbsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. salt 1½ cups cake flour 1 Tbsp. orange zest ½ cup small diced Granny Smith 1/8 cup granulated sugar Canola oil for frying • Combine all of the ingredients except the canola oil in a bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon until a dough forms. Let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

• Roll the dough into 6 to 8 equally sized balls.

• Heat 1 to 2 inches of canola oil in a skillet. Working in batches, if necessary, pan-fry the fritters until brown and cooked through. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

• Toss the fritters in the sugar.

• Serve with lemon curd (recipe follows).

Lemon Curd Makes 1 Quart 10 egg yolks 2 cups granulated sugar ²∕³ cup fresh lemon juice plus zest of 6 lemons ½ lb. butter, melted • Combine the yolks and sugar in a large, heat proof bowl. Mix with a whisk until blended.

• Add the lemon juice and zest then mix until well-combined.

• Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water. Let cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick. Remove from heat.

• Slowly drizzle in the butter and stir until all of the butter has dissolved.

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monster stash Whether you’re packing the kids’ pumpkin buckets or stocking up for an adults-only bash, who doesn’t love a skull with a sweet tooth? Screw the tricks – this Halloween, it’s all about the tasty little treats.

– Julie Cohen

Coffin Creeper Halloween Lollipops Bone Rattlin’ Blue Raspberry. Vampire Very Cherry. Mummy Wrap Green Apple.

Are these coffin-packed creatures creepy or just clever? Who cares if they taste good? Oh Lolli Lolli, 804 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.721.9600, ohlollilolli.com

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SKull Sweet Tarts These brightly colored creepy sweeties will have you changing your party theme to Día de los Muertos, replacing naughty nurses and cape-wearing superheros with vixen vampires and pale-faced zombies. Straub’s, various locations, straubs.com

Scary Gummies This bat doesn’t hold a candle to the creepy, gnarled gummy hand that also comes in this bag, but it’s just as fun to nibble on. Sweet Be’s, 12027 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.835.1117, sweetbe.com

October 2012

Cobra Truffle (RIGHT) Who knew vanilla and vodka made this ferocious cat so sweetly smooth? RJ Chocolatier, 14882 Clayton Road, Wildwood, 636.230.9300, rjchocolatier.com

Pucker Pete Vampire Teeth When you say “I vant to suck your blood” with these edible, sour dentures, people might just take you up on your offer. Oh Lolli Lolli, 804 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.721.9600, ohlollilolli.com

Gojira Truffle Start with a citrusy tang, end with a fiery kick, these lime and ghost chile-laden chocolates will leave you screaming for cool salvation – and begging for another. RJ Chocolatier, 14882 Clayton Road, Wildwood, 636.230.9300, rjchocolatier.com

Scorpion Lollipop If you’re brave enough to get to the center of this sugary pop, you might just find some dino DNA. K. Hall Designs, 26B Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, khalldesigns.com

Gummy Skull Wearing skulls is still hot, so add to your look with this handheld edible accessory.

Sweet Be’s, 12027 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.835.1117, sweetbe.com

White Chocolate Ghosts OK, these ghosties are more cute than scary, but that won’t stop you from biting off their white chocolate heads. Chocolate, Chocolate, Chocolate Co., 112 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.965.6615, chocolatechocolate.com

photo by kristi schiffman

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stuff to do:

this month

by Byron Kerman

Taste of Rock Hill Oct. 6 – 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., the Market at McKnight shops 314.961.7728 rockhillfallfestival.net What’s to eat in Rock Hill? Well, for starters, there’s El Indio Mexican Restaurant, Altai Mongolian Grill, St. Louis Wing Co., Nachomama’s TexMex, St. Louis Frozen Custard Factory, Farotto’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria, and The Gumbo Shop. These eateries and others will have booths at this month’s Taste of Rock Hill, a part of the annual Rock Hill Fall Festival. Maybe the St. Louis Wing Co., will offer its Cajunalfredo wings with bacon, which won the People’s Choice Award at the 2012 St. Louis Wing Ding. Other fun includes a parade, live music, a car show, and kids’ activities like a petting zoo, jugglers and magicians.

Port & Chocolate Tasting Oct. 11 – 7 to 9 p.m., Garland Wines 314.961.9463 garlandwines.com Hello, autumn.

After this uncivilized, sweltering summer, we are ready for you. And if fall means drinking sweet port in

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cozy environs, we’re even more ready.

Garland Wines ups the ante with a Port & Chocolate Tasting that will tickle all your parts. The ports are by Kopke, and the chocolates are by Oh Sheila! Chocolates, made locally in small batches. Chocolatier Sheila Kleinschmidt herself will present each pairing.

Greater St. Louis Restaurant Week Oct. 12 to 21 – various venues · 314.499.1297 restaurantweekstl.com Joe Buck’s Downtown, Grappa Grill, Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Vin De Set, PW Pizza and Dooley’s Beef N Brew House are but a few of the eateries participating in Greater St. Louis Restaurant Week this month.

Restaurants will offer fixed-price, multicourse menus at lunch ($15) and dinner ($30) for the special 10-day event. Ten percent of the price of each meal will be donated to Operation Food Search’s Operation Backpack program, which provides backpacks filled with nutritious, kid-friendly foods on Fridays to help children from disadvantaged circumstances supplement their weekend needs.

Carts & Cocktails Oct. 13 – 6 to 10 p.m., Laumeier Sculpture Park 314.615.5276 laumeiersculpturepark.org The signature drink at this year’s

Carts & Cocktails fundraiser is the Bee’s Tea, a light tippler containing vodka, fresh lemon juice, cinnamon syrup and honey syrup, shaken with ice and strained into a glass. It’s sweet and tart, and after one or two, you’ll be awfully glad for the sober driver and golf cart that ferry you and your companion to the next stop of this progressive party. The carts go from makeshift watering hole to watering hole across the capacious park, including a stop at a one-night food-truck court to soak up the booze. The requisite silent auction is part of the fun.

Pints ‘n’ Plants: Missouri’s Wild Mushrooms Oct. 17 – 6 p.m., Schlafly Tap Room · 314.588.9600 gatewaygreening.org The land is moist and the mushrooms are popping.

Learn what you can eat and where to forage for it at Missouri’s Wild Mushrooms, a Pints ‘n’ Plants talk sponsored by Gateway Greening at downtown’s Schlafly Tap Room. Maxine Stone of the Missouri Mycological Society will share expert tips on finding and identifying our area’s most common varieties of mushrooms. Will you learn about the chicken mushroom? The lobster mushroom? The poisonous deathcap? (You’ll have to attend to find out.)

The talk is free; other Pints ‘n’ Plants talks happen every third Wednesday of the month.

Soulard Chili Festival Oct. 20 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Lift for Life Academy parking lot · 314.231.2337 · liftforlifeacademy.org There is no surer sign that the chilly weather approacheth than chili itself, making an appearance on local menus and even at festivals. At the latter, chili is a risk of sorts. A cook can put just about anything in chili; you never really know what you’re eating. After sampling a dozen kinds of the stuff, you might easily have more than 100 different ingredients rolling around your stomach, trying to make sense of their new environment.

That’s part of the digestive fun at the second annual Soulard Chili Festival to benefit the do-gooders of Lift for Life Academy. Area restaurants compete for Best Chili, People’s Choice, Most Creative Chili and Best Decorated Booth awards. Other attractions include live music, kids’ activities, and a beer and wine garden. A single pass entitles guests to sample each variety of chili, and the first 50 eaters to buy tickets receive a commemorative apron.

October 2012

sponsored events ArtD Tour

Oct. 5 – 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., begins at St. Louis Art Museum 314.607.7693 · artdimensions.org/artd-tour/ The experience begins at the St. Louis Art Museum where participants will enjoy food and drink samples and live art from local artists. The tour then splits into two groups, exploring galleries throughout St. Louis city and ending with an after party. Tickets include entry and food and range from $20 to $30 in advance and $25 to $35 the day of the event.

Alive Magazine St. Louis Fashion Week

Oct. 9 to Oct. 13, various locations 314.446.4056 x 211 · stlfashionweek.com Fashion Week features five nights of runway shows, in-store events, pre-show cocktail hours, shopping opportunities, special appearances and after parties.

Events will be held at the Saint Louis Science Center Exploradome, Plaza Frontenac, Saint Louis Galleria and Pointe 400. Get tickets at the website above or at the door.

Sauce Magazine’s Food Truck Fridays

Oct. 12 – 4 to 7 p.m., Tower Grove Park · 314.443.7029 saucemagazine.com/foodtruckfriday.php Join us for the final Food Truck Friday of the season, where nearly 20 of St. Louis’ most sought-after food trucks will gather in Tower Grove Park for an evening of food, fun and craft beer.

Celtic Night Circus and Dinner

Oct. 18 to 20 – 7 p.m., tent on northwest grounds of Chesterfield Mall · 314.289.4040 · circusflora.org Audiences settle in for an exquisite sitdown dinner with dessert and wine as they step back in time to the ancient Emerald Isle in this cabaret-style performance.

The show boasts the same exceptional talent for which Circus Flora has become renown. Tickets cost $175 and include dinner, wine, dessert and the show, and are available at the website above.

Denotes a Sauce sponsored event.

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5 Questions for Emilio Bombais Emilio Bombais has been serving St. Louisans Filipino cuisine for decades. Now that he’s opened Manila Bistro, he’s telling us what we’ll find at St. Louis’ first brick-and-mortar Filipino restaurant in some time.

Want to hear more from Bombais? Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, October 12 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m., as we chat with Bombais and two other area restaurateurs about the rise of authentic Filipino cuisine in St. Louis.

How would you describe Filipino cuisine to the uninitiated? [It’s] a combination of the cuisine of Spain and other ethnic groups, with original touches. The Philippines was a colony of Spain for six centuries.

Much of the food has Spanish seasoning, but other cuisines like American, Japanese, Chinese and Portuguese are part of the mix, too. The Philippines were liberated by the Americans from the Japanese during World War II. Some of our most popular dishes are the lumpia sariwa, which are Filipino spring rolls. The pancit is a noodle dish – a stir-fry with chicken, oriental vegetables and rice noodles.

Manila Bistro, 343 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.966.5288, mycafemanila.com

You’ve had a long history of serving Filipino food in St. Louis. I used to have a spot in the food court at Union Station, and Cafe Manila used to be located on South Grand. We go back 35 years here. We were a vendor at the VP Fair for a long time, too.

Does the restaurant showcase the cuisine of different regions of the Philippines? The Philippines are divided into Luzon; the middle region, called the Visayas; and the Mindanao. We make a little from each region – about two presentations distinct to each area. For instance, we have the pinakbet, which is a vegetable dish made with eggplant, melon, okra, yellow squash, tomato and other ingredients, from a northern region called the Ilokano.

What would you say to those who are tepid to try Filipino cuisine? Trying a new food is exciting.

When we started doing the business, it was hard to convince people to try Filipino food, but it just seems to get easier and easier. Right now, people’s palates are changing. Some don’t want pork, some don’t want gluten, some don’t want MSG ... You have to be able to answer their questions honestly.

People know Vietnamese and Thai food, so it’s nice to educate them about Filipino food now.

– Byron Kerman

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Photo by greg rannells

What changes do you see forthcoming on the Manila Bistro menu? We’ll have a new menu in October with dishes like kare-kare, which is oxtail and oriental vegetables with peanut sauce. We will have sinagang hipon, which is shrimp poached in tamarind juice with oriental vegetables in a broth, and sinagang isda, which is the same dish with poached salmon instead of shrimp. We’re moving toward less fried and more healthy food. After we get organized, we’ll have a Sunday buffet brunch of Filipino food, too.

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