BREAKING GROUND FIRST-GENER ATION FARMERS FORGE THEIR OWN PATHS
from left, david and mark bohlen, p. 30
R E V I E W GOOD FORTUNE P. 19
M
E
E
T
STL VEG GIRL P. 46
ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY October 2018
OKTOBERFEST
D O
Y O U
D R I N K I N G
S O J U ?
P. 25
P. 26
SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM
FREE, OCTOBER 2018 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1
2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3
OCTOBER 2018 • VOLUME 18, ISSUE 10 What food have you
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER SENIOR DESIGNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
dressed up as for Halloween?
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS An eggplant – but this was way before the emoji.
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS
Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene My cousins, sister and Matt Sorrell I once dressed up as the California Raisins Catherine Klene in trash bags and sun Megan Gilmore glasses. Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Lauren Healey, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz, Matt Sorrell, Sophie Tegenu, Jane Thier Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Sophie Tegenu, Jane Thier
I was a Hershey’s Kiss one year.
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2018 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME__________________________________________________________ STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________ CITY_______________________________ STATE ______ ZIP______________
SEND A $30 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau
4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
•
St. Louis, MO 63103 October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5
6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
contents OCTOBER 2018
editors' picks 9 E AT THIS Hot crisp fish at Cate Zone Chinese Cafe by matt sorrell
10
last course 44 STUFF TO DO by sophie tegenu and jane thier 46 WHAT I D O Caryn Dugan
dumplings at good fortune p. 19
by catherine klene
T R EN DWATC H What’s on our plate and in our glasses right now
by lauren healey, heather hughes, catherine klene and matt sorrell 13
HIT LIST 5 places to try this month
by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and matt sorrell
features 30
BREAKING GROUND by stacy schultz 38
CHIMICHURRI IN A HURRY
reviews
by kellie hynes
19 N E W AN D NOTABLE Good Fortune
by michael renner 22
LUNCH RUSH Salume Beddu at Parker’s Table
by matt berkley
dine & drink 25 A SE AT AT THE BAR
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
by glenn bardgett, katie herrera, and ted and jamie kilgore 26 ELIXIR Do you soju?
by matt sorrell October 2018
COVER DETAILS Breaking Ground From left, David and Mark Bohlen of Bohlen Family Farms in Perryville aren’t exactly a couple of Old MacDonalds. Learn how young, first-generation farmers are forging their own paths and succeeding in a tough industry on p. 30. PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM when Sauce editor Heather Hughes joins Bohlen Family Farms owner David Bohlen to discuss the future of specialty farming, and join us at the beginning of the month when we discuss the must-try new restaurants on our monthly Hit List.
CORRECTION | On p. 8 of our Guide to Drinking, we misidentified 1220 Artisan Spirits. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7
8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
editors' picks
EAT THIS Some dishes are so tasty they don’t need fancy monikers – the food does all the talking. The hot crisp fish at Cate Zone Chinese Cafe is a prime example. Flaky, tender swai is seasoned with a spice blend including powdered Sichuan peppers and cayenne, dipped in a light batter then fried until golden and served on a bed of even more PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
Sichuan peppers. There’s just enough heat to prime your taste buds and make your lips tingle, and the portion is big enough to satisfy the heartiest Midwestern appetite.
CATE ZONE CHINESE CAFE, 8148 OLIVE BLVD., UNIVERSITY CITY, 314.738.9923 October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
T R E N D W A T C H BY LAUREN HEALEY, HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE AND MAT T SORRELL
black interiors
In the past few years, restaurant design has trended toward rooms drenched in natural light, filled with vibrant colors and whites and bursting with live plants, but some restaurateurs are taking a darker, moodier approach. Black is the new black at spaces like The Benevolent King in Maplewood, Billie-Jean in Clayton and Savage in Fox Park, where small spaces are made even more intimate with onyx-colored walls, dim lighting, limited seating and open kitchens.
canned cocktails Statement walls have gotten a little more interesting than the slightly darker color on every fourth wall in the aughts. From the lush floral custom wallpaper at Louie (dusty pink and white flowers sinking into a black background) to Yellowbelly’s stylized tropical mural by St. Louis native artist Noah MacMillan, restaurants are using bold patterns and massive paintings as signature design elements. Aside from coffee, the first thing Lola Jean brings to mind is its cheery yellow wall of lemons. The Clover and the Bee’s floral mural sets a sunny mood, while the black cat mural outside Firecracker Pizza & Beer screams its bold, playful brand.
spam
The granddaddy of all canned meat products, Spam was created in the late 1930s and gained popularity during World War II due to its portability and almost supernatural shelf life. Some dismiss Spam as “mystery meat,” but it’s integral to a variety of beloved bites and has made numerous appearances on local menus. Earthbound Beer and Buzz’s Hawaiian Grill both offer takes on musubi, a chunk of Spam on a block of white rice wrapped with strips of nori (seaweed) that originated in Japan, while Grace Meat & Three has served a variant with house-made Spam. Buzz’s also offers a Spam-fried rice, which shows up as a side at Yellowbelly and has been served as a special at Hiro Asian Kitchen too. Guerrilla Street Food has used its house-made Spam in dishes from Spam fries to Spamsilog – Spam, rice and an egg – with more to come soon.
10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
service stations
Derelict service stations from a bygone era are seeing new life as cozy neighborhood restaurants and cafes. Restaurateur Ben Poremba was ahead of the curve in 2012 when he opened Olio in Botanical Heights; since then, a wave of new eateries have followed suit. Living Room and Blueprint Coffee both opened second locations in former South City auto repair shops, and executive chef Chris Bertke is putting the finishing touches on Utah Station, a vegan comfort food eatery inside an old Benton Park gas station. The ever-busy Dave Bailey is also getting in on the trend, with plans to open second, smaller Baileys’ Range in the Shaw neighborhood.
chermoula
Chermoula (a spicy, herbaceous North African sauce that goes with almost anything) is the latest “it” condiment on plates around the country, including St. Louis. With its focus on Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors, Olio has dabbled with the sauce for some time (currently it graces a marinated beet salad), and sister restaurant The Benevolent King embraces the sauce’s Moroccan roots with dishes like the grilled scallops plate and the breaded shrimp mogador. Chermoula serves as a piquant counterpoint to the mammoth pork chop at Louie, while 50/Fifty Kitchen uses it to pump up the volume on a cauliflower steak.
October 2018
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
BETTER STATEMENT WALLS
The can craze has expanded from craft beer and wine to legit cocktails. From Cutwater Spirits’ Bloody Mary and Lime Margarita available at Randall’s Wines & Spirits to The Copper Can Moscow Mule and Novo Fogo’s Sparkling Caipirinha at Lukas Wine & Spirits, canned cocktails are a little more sophisticated than the old “malt beverages” that came before. Pick up cans of Pampelonne’s French 75 or Blood Orange Spritz at Parker’s Table, or if you prefer to #siplocal, try Pinckney Bend Distillery’s Perfect Gin & Tonic, which utilizes house-made tonic syrup. Go ahead, hop on the can-wagon.
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11
12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
hit list
5 new places to try this month
SAVAGE
PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Chef Logan Ely made waves last year with Square1 Project, an underground pop-up restaurant with a barebones kitchen and staff that served fancifully presented tasting menus with creative techniques and ingredients. Now, Ely has taken his passion aboveground with Savage, located in the space that formerly housed A & B Market in Fox Park. The A & B sign remains, but the interior has been transformed into a study in minimalism – a completely open kitchen surrounded by 20 seats where guests can interact with staff and observe the creative process firsthand. There are three menu options: a five-course snacks menu and six- and 12-course tasting menus. The artfully composed dishes change constantly, but recent offerings included yeast mousse with preserved onion and turnip, as well as milk sorbet with local honey and brown rice.
2655 Ann Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.8488, savagestl.com
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13
Pie Guy Pizza’s neon PIE GUY PIZZA slice sign is the shining beacon of hope we have looked for in The Grove. St. Louis’ late-night dining options are notoriously few and not that late, so the new pizza spot’s 3:30 a.m. close time on Friday and Saturday is a godsend. Order an 18-inch pie with your choice of toppings, or opt for a $4 or $5 massive slice of cheese, pepperoni, sausage or veggie (green olive and artichoke) to end your night. The New York-style pizzas have a sturdy sourdough crust, a pleasantly acidic house tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese – nothing fancy and just what you want after a few beers next door at Gezellig. The tiny restaurant is connected to the taproom and bottle shop where you can sit and enjoy your pizza with an enormous selection of beer.
5860 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.390.2400, Facebook: Krab Kingz Seafood St. Louis
4189 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0444, pieguystl.com
yellowbelly
the rhum-based hopes & dreams cocktail at yellowbelly
14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
a carrot cake bite with yogurt and almond at savage
4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, yellowbellystl.com
This tiny, carryout-only counter in North City deserves your attention. Jerk Soul serves some of the best Caribbean food we’ve tasted in St. Louis, from the spot-on coconut rice and peas to a classic, heavily seasoned jerk chicken. Do not miss the curry chicken in a deeply flavorful coconut milk broth (more earthy than bright Thai versions), and the bone-in oxtail served in a dark, rich and velvety sauce. Don’t worry – entrees come with two sides, so you don’t have to choose between the super savory Caribbean cabbage and mac and cheese.
JERK SOUL
2016 Salisbury St., St. Louis, 314.601.3871, jerksoul.com October 2018
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Texas-based crab boil KRAB franchise Krab KINGZ Kingz Seafood has made its way north to Delmar Boulevard, serving piping hot platters of fresh shellfish. Sample the full spectrum with the crab and shrimp platter: two clusters of snow crab legs and six succulent shrimp, all piled atop a buttery mess of fall-apart potatoes, a hard-boiled egg, a piece of corn on the cob and a spicy sausage link. Customize your order with your choice of five flavored butters – we like the Cajun and lemon-pepper – then get decadent by tossing in some more shrimp or adding a lobster tail. Stock up on paper towels and start cracking.
The moment you walk into YELLOWBELLY Yellowbelly, you feel good vibes, and the menu matches the mood. A sweet and vegetal snap pea daiquiri, made with snap pea syrup, rum and lime juice, is a fantastic introduction to the cocktail menu that combines unlikely ingredients for a harmonious result. The drinks sound fruity but are seriously balanced and pair to perfection with the seafood-heavy menu. Try a Frio Fresco, made with gin, aloe vera and coconut, alongside the Sea Biscuits: souped-up mini cheddar biscuits served with luscious uni butter. Add an order of deviled crab fritters, filled generously with crab swathed in a creamy sauce, breaded, fried and served with passion fruit mustard for a sweet-tart, intensely rich bite. Texture was thoughtfully considered in larger plates like the whole branzino with skin seared till crispy with perfectly cooked fish inside. The sleeper hit is the grilled charred carrots dish with a silky texture, served with eel sauce, garlicky chimichurri and finished with hazelnuts for crunch. And don’t deprive yourself of dessert: Grandma’s Coconut Cake is a colossal three-tier slice flecked with shredded coconut.
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15
16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17
18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
tea-smoked duck at good fortune
NE W A ND N OTA B L E
good fortune BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JONSHON
I h a d b e e n c r av i n g m a p o t o f u since I saw the “Chinese Classics” episode of my favorite cooking show, “America’s Test Kitchen.” The fiery Sichuan comfort meal features bean curd and ground meat simmered in a glossy red sauce made from fermented broad bean paste, black beans, ginger, garlic, Sichuan peppercorns, chili and a lot of oil. Good Fortune, the long-anticipated addition to the Botanical Heights neighborhood’s culinary enclave, seemed like the best place to get my fix.
n e w a n d n o t a b l e G O O D F O R T U N E p . 1 9 / l u n c h r u s h S A L U M E B E D D U A T Psaucemagazine.com A R K E R ' S TI SAUCE A B L EMAGAZINE p . 2 2 I 19
October 2018
new spins on old cuisines. Is the result a harmonious fusion of old and new or a bastardized version of the original? Does the new reflect the authentic? And what the hell is “authentic,” anyway?
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 3
Owners McDonald and former doughnuteur Corey Smale (co-founder of Strange Donuts) have probably wrestled with similar questions since conceiving Good Fortune back in 2016, when they announced (along with former partners Bob the dining Brazell and Hana Chung, room both of Byrd & Barrel at and the the time) a new venture scallops that would serve, as was at good then described, higher-end fortune Americanized Chinese takeout food. After a couple years of misfortune, including three location changes, building issues and the departure of Brazell and Chung from the team, Good Fortune opened (as if to tempt fate further) on Friday the 13th in April this year.
Like gumbo, mapo tofu is a dish that incites as many opinions as there are ways to make it. It wasn’t that Good Fortune’s version contained no meat or little, if any, oil. I understand the philosophy of co-owner and head chef Ryan McDonald (formerly at Byrd & Barrel and Juniper) to “build dishes that don’t rely on fats to deliver flavor,” according to the restaurant’s website. Nothing wrong with that. It wasn’t even that the locally sourced tofu was pan-fried instead of simmered, as per traditional preparation. Nothing wrong with that, either. And, yes, the beans are fermented in-house, providing backbone (the roux, if you will) to the sauce.
20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Along the way, the concept evolved from takeout joint to dine-in restaurant featuring regional Chinese cuisines to its current iteration as both a dine-in and takeout destination focused on what McDonald and Smale describe as “New American Chinese.” I’m not sure exactly what it means, but if that disappointing Mapo Doufu and a delicious Beef and Brassica are any indication, there’s some serious yin-yang going on. The latter dish proved a worthy alternative to your typical, banal beef and broccoli: sliced hanger steak, seared medium-rare, alongside seasonal brassica (broccolini, in my case, cooked al dente with a nice charred finish) in an aromatic sauce of tangy fermented chili vinegar and savory red-cooked beef jus. But even with a tweak here and there, shouldn’t a touch of modernism signal some connection to the original’s characteristic complexity? Where was the exhilaratingly numbing heat, the savory aromatics, the nuanced umami and subtle sweetness? Where were the braised fermented greens? Anticipating a symphony from all those potential flavor notes, all I got was a monotone. Good Fortune’s Mapo Doufu (tofu) represents the challenge of trying to put
Kung pao chicken seemed new and American and Chinese. Deep-fried whole pieces were coated in a thick, multilayered sweet-spicy-vinegary sauce and sprinkled with (literally) melt-inyour-mouth chicken dust made by mixing tapioca powder and chicken fat. It was terrific. Similarly, instead of standard fried triangles of crab Rangoon oozing with molten cream cheese, there were tube-shaped versions filled with real salt cod you could see and taste, served with a fermented sweet-and-sour sauce.
As with the Salt Cod Rangoon, you’ll question sharing small plates like the earthy Hen of the Woods and Shrimp Working Hand Dumplings. The former tangly, meaty local mushroom clusters were confited in beef marrow stock seasoned with wild ginger and stinging nettles (you can also order a vegetarian version) and came atop a spicy mushroom puree. The dumplings were so shrimpy good and the sauce so balanced with chili oil heat and black vinegar tartness that all five were gone in a flash. Seared scallops, each nestled into their own little bed of turnip puree, best exhibited Good Fortune’s intent: Topped with pickled mushroom and a dollop of ham XO sauce made from dried seafood, salty ham, garlic and chili, each bite exploded with umami deliciousness. I hope McDonald’s tea-smoked duck, a classic Sichuan dish added to the menu between my visits, sticks around. But while the breast meat was tender and the accompanying caramelized leeks and orange-daikon salad added bright tartness, I wanted more oomph from the tea and spice infusion. Takeout from Good Fortune comes smartly packaged, and while what was inside consisted of high quality ingredients – Ziran paigu pork ribs rubbed with cumin and glazed with chili barbecue sauce, Springfield-style fried cashew chicken – nothing hit the mark or the hype. I couldn’t understand how the famous cashew chicken I’ve had a hundred times in Springfield, Missouri – the epitome of Americanized Chinese, with its crunchy nuts, thick-yet-lighttasting sauce – was so devoid of flavor. Sharp design and intense branding, including hats, T-shirts and hoodies, is such an integral part of Good Fortune’s existence that I couldn’t help wondering if marketing is the prevailing interest. “You can see a lot just by looking,” read one of my fortune cookies. Ultimately, quality of taste and texture are the only objective ways to judge food. Everything else – authenticity, creativity, value – are personal preferences. While there are many good things to like about Good Fortune (particularly those shrimp dumplings and the scallops), my other fortune cookie offered the best advice: “Well begun is half done.”
October 2018
hen of the woods at good fortune
AT A GLANCE good fortune October 2018
Where 1641D Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.726.4666, goodfortunestl.com
Don’t-Miss Dishes Hen of the Woods, Shrimp Working Hand Dumplings, scallops
Vibe Uber-stylish compact space with lots of exposed brick and the coolest, jazzy low-vibe soundtrack of late
Entree Prices $10 to $25
When Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sun. – 5 to 10 p.m.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
reviews LUNCH RUSH
LUNCH RUSH
salume beddu BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
In May 2017, Salume Beddu owner Mark Sanfilippo’s nationally lauded empire of artisan cured meats moved from its former Lindenwood Park storefront to Parker’s Table in Richmond Heights. A mecca of unique wine, craft beer and specialty foods, Parker’s provides an ideal eclectic, comfortable environment for Salume Beddu’s local products and lunch menu. It might look like your average deli counter, but the sandwich shop tucked in the back turns out deceptively simple but phenomenally executed sandwiches.
THE SALAMI This streamlined sandwich is pared down to four ingredients on Fazio’s Bakery ciabatta, starting with the flagship Sicilianstyle soppressata, which is stuffed with hand-cut back fat, red chili, garlic, red wine and black peppercorns and aged 100-plus days. Unlike overly dry salami that take on a tough, jerky-like texture when heated, this one is salty, a little bit spicy and utterly smooth – leaking just a hint of savory oil that soaks into the crispy ciabatta laced with grain mustard and creamy
melted provolone. The finishing touch is the sott’aceto, a chunky and marvelously bright green relish of fennel, garlic and onion, pickled in vinegar and packed in oil for several weeks. It spreads on thick and adds a rich earthiness and a hit of tang.
ham with hints of rosemary, coriander and black pepper. A handful of bright pink pickled red onions complement the mild meat with a little acidic bite, and salty, nutty melted Gruyere and a thin layer of mustard round out the sandwich.
THE BEAST
THE SPECK
There’s nothing subtle about this sandwich, which features a hot southern Italian-style salsiccia fiama heavy on the traditional flavors of fennel seed and smoked paprika. The sausage is poached for extra juiciness, then seared before
22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
being placed on a ciabatta bun with grain mustard and peperonata – a mix of sauteed red peppers, roasted onions and tomato paste. Toasted in a convection oven and served piping hot, The Beast has a juicy snap of meat in each bite that plays well with the classic smothering of soft onions and red peppers.
Speck is a fatty, bacon-flavored ham that’s cured with spices like juniper, slow smoked and aged. It goes wonderfully with nutty Gruyere and mustard, but it’s the preserved lemon that really makes this sandwich. Lemon might be
the last thing you’d think to put on a pork sandwich, but Sanfillipo’s lemon-curing process results in a tender and zesty topping that dissolves on first bite and adds sugary sweet lemon flavor without any bitter edge.
THE DOWNSIDE A good sandwich requires prep time, especially for a boutique counter operation like this. The staff is beyond accommodating, but even if there isn’t a crowd to contend with during your visit, be prepared for a wait. Call ahead if time is a factor.
THE PROSCIUTTO COTTO The prosciutto cotto may pose as a forgettable ham and cheese, but is in fact the best sandwich on the menu. Airy ciabatta easily pulls apart with a healthy layer of semi-smoky
Salume Beddu 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.942.6300, salumebeddu.com
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
dine
& drink pair echo echo’s costal red blend and benchland sauvignon blanc with curated playlists designed for each wine.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake From the mountainous Trentino region of Italy, Pasubio Vino Amaro is reminiscent of a brisk mountain hike. This lightly bitter, wine-based liqueur offers uncommon notes of smoke and pine, along with blueberry juice that exudes a TED AND JAMIE ripe, fruity burst. Try it chilled, KILGORE neat or in a Negroni: In an iceUSBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart filled mixing glass, combine 1 and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House ounce Pasubio Vino Amaro, 1 ounce Hayman’s London Dry Gin and 1 ounce Dolin sweet vermouth. Stir and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. $23. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com October 2018
Wine pairings are no longer just for food. Echo Echo Wine pairs its blends with curated playlists that aim to enhance the imbiber’s experience. Try the 2017 Benchland Sauvignon GLENN BARDGETT Blanc with vibrant citrus Member of the Missouri Wine aromas that go well with and Grape Board and wine any zesty shellfish or the director at Annie Gunn’s 2016 Coastal Red Blend, a grenache and syrah blend with spice and fruit aromatics “so happy together” you’ll bust a move while grilling almost anything. Each bottle has a code to access a playlist at echoechowine.com. $20. Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com
Celebrate Oktoberfest this year with a fest flagship marzen like Off Color Brewing’s Waddle, a nutty, medium-bodied version of the classic style with rounded malt notes and a delicate, yeastKATIE HERRERA driven fruitiness. Or, for Director of beer at STL a lighter option, gravitate Barkeep and account manager at Craft Republic toward Destihl Brewery’s Weissenheimer, a Germanstyle wheat beer stacked with notes of clove and banana, along with a fluffy texture to pull the flavors through. Waddle: $12. Craft Beer Cellar, craftbeercellar.com; Weissenheimer: $10. Saint Louis Hop Shop, saintlouishopshop.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
SPIRITS
DO Y OU
BY MATT SORRELL
Despite international popularity, soju has been little more than a blip on the local radar. But that’s beginning to change, as several brands are making inroads into the St. Louis market, like West 32, an American take on the spirit out of New York, and Jinro, which offers variations infused with subtle flavors like grapefruit and green grape.
BUY IT Jinro and West 32 sojus are available at The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com The Blue Ocean 6335 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.6477, blueoceanstl.com *Available at United Provisions, 6241 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.833.5699, unitedprovisions.com
26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Soju is traditionally distilled from rice, but now often incorporates other grains like wheat, buckwheat and barley. Some have a bit of added sugar and most are low ABV. Traditionally, soju is imbibed straight with food, but cocktail culture has started to embrace the spirit. Its light body and crisp, clean flavor make it an appealing substitute for vodka and some gins in classic cocktails like the Collins and the French 75. “It has a lower ABV but more texture and mouth feel than most vodkas,” said Tai Nalewajko, beverage director at The Blue Ocean. He frequently uses the spirit in his drink recipes for this reason. Plus, the lower alcohol level
makes guests amenable to ordering more than one cocktail. Nalewajko said he’s also seeing an uptick in locals who want to experience the spirit straight. Pick up a bottle to try, or make these simple cocktails to experience soju’s versatility.
into a chilled cocktail glass and top with club soda. Garnish with the lime.
PALM SUGAR SIMPLE SYRUP 4 TO 5 OUNCES 1 50-g. palm sugar disc* 3 oz. water
SOJU FLIP This cocktail is based on the tamagozake, a hot Japanese sake drink similar to a toddy. 1 SERVING
• In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the palm sugar and water. When the disc dissolves, remove the saucepan from heat and let cool. Strain the simple syrup into a bottle and refrigerate.
1½ oz. soju 1 egg 1 Tbsp. agave nectar 3 oz. coconut milk Grated nutmeg, for garnish • In a shaker, combine all ingredients and dry shake (without ice). Add ice and shake again. Strain into a rocks glass. Garnish with grated nutmeg.
STARRY NIGHT 1 SERVING 2 oz. soju ¾ oz. palm sugar simple syrup (recipe follows) ½ oz. Marukan ponzu citrus marinade* Club soda Lime twist, for garnish
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
SOJU?
Think the best-selling liquor in the world is vodka? Bourbon? Think again. Korean soju has topped the list for years. In 2017, the HiteJinro brand sold 44 million more cases than its closest competitor (a Thai cane spirit), according to the International Wine & Spirits Research group.
• In an ice-filled shaker, combine the soju, simple syrup and marinade. Shake vigorously, strain
October 2018
September 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
BREAKING
30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
GROUND
FI RS T- G EN ER AT I O N FA R M ERS F O RG E T H EI R OW N PAT H S
BY STACY SCHULTZ PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31
from left, mark and david bohlen at bohlen family farms
of their competition were fourth-generation. “Their greatgranddads built everything. Well, me and Dave are the greatgranddads. Realizing you’re at the very infancy of something people are trained to do their whole lives was a lot to realize.” After sharing their first bunch of kale with close friends and local chefs Josh Poletti and Josh Galliano, the food insiders began taking Sij and Blum to barbecues and parties, introducing them to like-minded chefs around town. “Someone would say to us, ‘You know what would be really cool? Do some milk.’ So we started doing dairy goats,” Sij explained. “‘And you know what would be cool? Pork.’ So we got heritage pigs.”
A NEW G E N E R AT IO N OF YOUNG FA R M E R S I S SPROUTING IN A TRADE ONCE D O M I N AT E D BY SINGLE BLOODLINES A N D OV E R A L LDONNING WHITE MEN. First-timers are buying land and setting up camp, choosing to venture into an industry known for grueling hours and even more
32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
grueling margins. These young men and women bring energy, collaboration and a scrappy entrepreneurship to the age-old business. But as newcomers to any industry will tell you, breaking in ain’t easy.
the time, Sij, 25, and Blum, 28, had never successfully grown a plant or raised an animal, besides a dog. “I did have an aloe plant, and I killed it,” Sij chuckled. “That’s how much of a black thumb I had.”
When Autumn Sij and David Blum bought land in DeSoto, Missouri, seven years ago, they had no intention of farming. They wanted to be homesteaders – live a little more hand-to-mouth, chop wood during the day and use it to keep warm at night. At
Once they started growing on their land, the gravity of everything they didn’t know about this very costly, very complex industry hit hard. “We were at a disadvantage because we had so much infrastructure to build,” Sij explained. Some
Today, Such and Such Farm is home to a thriving vegetable garden, more than 50 pigs, seven goats and so many chickens and ducks Sij and Blum have lost count. They credit much of their success to the collaboration they have with chefs like Poletti and Galliano. Each fall, they sit down with chefs to look through a seed catalogue. “They get to circle whatever they want,” Sij said excitedly. Through this process, Such and Such has fulfilled requests for everything from rare vegetable varieties to a pig finished only on barley and strawberries for its last 130 days.
LOCAL CHEFS were also vital to the education and development of David Bohlen, the 25-year-old farmer running Bohlen Family Farms in Perryville. He credits much of his business’ growth to local chefs-turned-teachers like Bakers & Hale chef-co-owner Rex Hale and Vicia co-owners Michael and Tara Gallina. Bohlen started out growing on a tiny plot of land near his home in Ferguson after he realized how expensive it was to eat as well as he had growing up. He was able to expand after meeting Clyde Bruckerhoff, a multi-generation farmer. They hit it off, and Bruckerhoff offered Bohlen the opportunity to grow on his land in Perryville. Being a young, black farmer with an unknown name made it even more difficult to break into this legacy-led industry. “When I was bringing stuff to restaurants, they were like, ‘Dude, you didn’t grow this shit.’ I’d be like, ‘Yes, I grew it. I harvested it. I brought it all the way here, and now you guys are playing games.’ “I was probably as far away from what they thought a farmer looks like as possible, so that was a hard sell at first. It was difficult for people to wrap their head around. People see me walking down the street with my arms full, I’m running deliveries, and [they think], ‘Did he just steal that shit?’” As Bohlen became more established, that changed. Today he finds teachers everywhere he goes – from Bruckerhoff and his brothers, whom Bohlen said
October 2018
can do everything “faster and cleaner than I do it right now,” to restaurant clients. The owners of Wei Hong Bakery taught him the perfect moment to harvest his Chinese broccoli. Hale taught him the mold growing on his corn crop was huitlacoche – a soughtafter, edible fungus considered a delicacy in Central Mexico. And when a group of Mexican workers asked if they could buy the blossoms from his squash, which he gave them for free, he realized he still had a lot to learn about the food world. “They picked every last blossom out of that field!” said Bohlen, still in shock. “For them to stop, you know, struggling speaking English, and then spend all the time on their hands – because squash plants have these like fiberglass thorns on them that break off into your skin when you play with the plants – that’s obviously something special.”
to make any money. If you weren’t given land, it’s virtually impossible. So you have to find your little niche thing. A new guy getting into it, it’s tough ’cause it takes so much money, and the margins are so slim.”
critical in landing those first few accounts like Farmhaus, Winslow’s Home and Cardwell’s. “My mom and dad had my back the whole time,” Tiefenbrun recalled with near disbelief. “If it was my kids, I’d be like, ‘No, you’re an idiot.’”
With a crisp new degree and the little money they had in the bank, Tiefenbrun and his wife, Eleanor Tiefenbrun, both 22 at the time, bought land about three hours outside St. Louis in California, Missouri. They started in the one area of farming he felt school prepared him enough to succeed in: chickens. He committed to farming true pasture-raised birds. His dad handled marketing, and his wife designed the logo. Having the support of his family proved
Since then, Buttonwood Farms has grown to 310 acres across multiple locations. Teifenbrun still raises chickens who forage with the sun on their backs, but turkeys and his beloved cattle have also joined the crew. So has his 2-year-old daughter, Alice. The arrival of Alice opened his eyes to a marketing tool many young, new farmers like Bohlen, Sij and Blum harness for a competitive edge: Instagram.
such and such farm’s autumn sij and david blum with one of their pigs
AN AG R IC U LT U R E major who always knew he wanted to farm, Matt Tiefenbrun has a slightly different story. Growing up, he was always playing outdoors or messing with the tractors and tiny plastic animals on his toy farm. His parents weren’t farmers, but that didn’t stop him from getting his first cow in eighth grade. Once he started his degree, however, Teifenbrun quickly realized that, much like the farming industry, the agricultural education system wasn’t meant for newcomers. “School didn’t teach me about the real world,” he bemoaned. “It was for when your parents hand you a farm. It’s like impossible
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33
autumn sij and david blum at such and such farm have chosen a hard path, one filled with the type of work that leaves your skin tanned and your muscles sore, and they have come out the other side strong, successful and growing. In doing so, they’re inspiring the next generation of the industry, from 2-year-old Alice waddling around with chickens to the curious college kid learning how to grow and cook great, simple ingredients from Bohlen and his brothers on Instagram. These young farmers are offering what they so passionately sought out just a few years earlier: knowledge, ideas, confidence.
“I’ve been getting more and more into social media,” Tiefenbrun said almost begrudgingly. “Eleanor was always wanting me to, and I didn’t see the point, and then you see all these people who are liking this stuff and all these chefs that we’re not working with yet but I want to, so that’s really cool. And Alice is really cute, so that helps!” WHILE THE I N D U S T R Y has always run on the kind of personal connection Bohlen has with Hale and Sij and Blum have with Galliano, tools like Instagram are disrupting the way those connections are usually made. Social media is providing young entrepreneurs a level of connection between farmer, chef and diner unattainable to past generations. For Bohlen, social media is part marketing, part education and, like the rest of his 20-something
peers, part a place for him to share what he eats and cooks and the people he meets along the way. Follow @BohlenFarms, and it’s like you’re right there on the farm with him, watching as he and his brothers pull the husks from freshly harvested sweet corn, rub granules of dirt from the sunchokes to reveal their deep red coloring and describe what lambsquarter (aka wild spinach) tastes like. This yearning to connect, to teach, isn’t lost on Sij and Blum, either. Follow @SuchandSuchFarm on Instagram to meet a goat named Marilyn Monroe and a pig named Gert Gert. See ruby-red orbs of pre-harvest hibiscus and grassy green heads of flowering Chinese cabbage. Learn about Goat Yoga, an annual event on the farm where you can get your downward dog on surrounded by sweet baby animals.
34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
“WHEN WE FIRST S TA RT E D F A R M I N G , I had no idea that people would want to follow a farm on Facebook or Instagram,” said Sij. “But it plays a huge, huge part. I love it, because we can show our daily lives, and people can see what goes in a daily life of a farm. It makes them care more. Whenever you know our faces, know our animals, the joys and sorrows of farming, it almost makes the food and the meat taste better because you care about it.”
“I honestly hope our story, through social media, can help other people do exactly what we did,” said Sij. “Because we went into this whole thing completely blind and not knowing – learning and learning as we failed. You can do this, too. You can take a leap. I hope it can be an example that you don’t have to be born a farmer. You don’t have to be really, really knowledgeable to follow something you love. Anything is possible – just follow this little farm in DeSoto, Missouri.”
Bohlen Family Farms Facebook: Bohlen Family Farms Buttonwood Farm buttonwoodfarms.com Such and Such Farm suchandsuchfarm.com
matt and eleanor tiefenbrun with their daughter alice at buttonwood farms
It’s no shock that these young farmers are doing things differently. They chose to wake up at 5 a.m. and spend 16 hours a day on their hands and knees, to spend their time feeding chickens and building pastures and milking goats without the pressure to stay in a family business. They
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35
36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37
CHIMICHURRI BREKKY SAMMY R E C I P E P. 4 2
38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
CHIMICHURRI in a
HURRY BY K E L L I E H Y N E S // P H OTO S BY C A R M E N T R O E S S E R
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39
MARINATED GRILLED SKIRT STEAK R E C I P E P. 4 2
If basil is the pillar of pesto, parsley is the heart of chimichurri. Choose flat-leaf parsley rather than curly, which runs a little bitter. Individually pinch off the thick stems below the leaves, or if that seems excruciating to you, just give the bunch a whack in the middle and move on to oh-so-finely chopping your ingredients. Deciding how to cut up the chimichurri components is the only challenging part of the recipe. Traditionally, all ingredients are minced by hand. Running a knife through the parsley and aromatics doesn’t take much time and yields a colorful salsa that looks authentic and artisanal. On the other hand, you can whip up a smooth, beautifully blended chimichurri with a few pulses of a food processor. I let the end use determine my method. If the chimichurri plays the starring role of the meal, say, drizzled over Argentine steak, I’ll hand-chop the ingredients. But if it’s in the background as a marinade, salad dressing or pasta sauce, a quick whirl in the food processor gets the job done quickly and easily.
I work on my chimichurri the same way other people work on their biceps. Each repetition is an opportunity for improvement, each recipe tweak a chance to achieve parsley perfection. When I’m not making the verdant,
40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
garlicky sauce, I’m talking about it – leading to more breath mint offers than I should probably admit. Much more than a sidekick for Argentine steak, chimichurri is a wallop of fresh, fierce flavor that transforms even the most pedestrian of meals (ahem, rotisserie chicken) into a colorful taste explosion. And all you need is the freshest parsley you can find, a glug of olive oil, a handful of garlic and enough aggression for productive knife skills.
Once you master the basic recipe, feel free to riff by playing with additional flavors. Cilantro adds brightness. Basil makes it a culinary crossover event. Diced tomato and red bell pepper yield chimichurri rojo, which is my favorite on fresh fish fillets. Use smoked paprika, sweet paprika, cumin, olives or capers for finesse. There is no wrong way to make chimichurri and an infinite number of ways to make it right. You may want to consider keeping a little notebook in your back pocket for all of the new chimichurri ideas that will pop into your head. Also, perhaps, a stick of gum. October 2018
BASIC GREEN CHIMICHURRI R E C I P E P. 4 2
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41
BASIC GREEN CHIMICHURRI
If using a food processor, simply place all ingredients except for the olive oil in the bowl. Pulse until the ingredients are finely chopped, pausing occasionally to scrape down the sides, then slowly pour the oil in with the food processor running. 1 CUP 2 bunches (about 5 oz.) flat-leaf parsley 3 sprigs oregano 3 garlic cloves 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 tsp. lemon juice ½ tsp. fleur de sel 1 ∕8 tsp. red pepper flakes ½ cup olive oil • Cut the stems off the parsley and oregano just below the leaves and discard. Finely chop the herbs and the garlic. • Place the herbs and garlic in a medium glass bowl. Add the vinegar, lemon juice, salt and red pepper flakes, and stir well with a fork. Add the olive oil and stir again. Taste and adjust seasonings. Refrigerate overnight before using. Chimichurri will keep refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week.
BASIC RED CHIMICHURRI
Make your green chimichurri by hand, then add finely diced tomatoes and red bell pepper for chimichurri rojo. Substitute smoked paprika for sweet if you prefer. 1½ CUPS 1 cup basic green chimichurri 2 Roma tomatoes, seeds removed, finely diced ½ red bell pepper, finely diced ¼ tsp. sweet paprika • Combine all ingredients in a medium glass bowl and stir well. Keep refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week.
42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
MARINATED GRILLED SKIRT STEAK
Turn leftovers into an easy appetizer by serving the grilled steak on dollar rolls dolloped with either red or green chimichurri. 4 SERVINGS 1 1½- to 2-lb. outside skirt steak ½ cup basic green or red chimichurri, plus more for serving ½ cup olive oil 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper • Cut the steak in half so it fits in a glass baking dish without folding. • In a small bowl, combine the chimichurri, olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. • Pour the marinade over the meat in the baking dish, making sure it’s evenly covered. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. • Remove the steak from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature. Prepare a grill for high, direct heat. • Blot the steak dry with paper towels and season with the pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Grill the steak 3 minutes per side. To serve, cut the steak against the grain and garnish with additional chimichurri.
CHIMICHURRI BREKKY SAMMY 1 SERVING 1 Tbsp. basic green chimichurri 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise 3 tsp. unsalted butter, divided 1 ciabatta roll, halved 1 large egg Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 Tbsp. shredded mozzarella or Gruyere • Combine the chimichurri and mayonnaise in a small bowl and set aside.
• Spread 1 teaspoon butter on each cut side of the ciabatta roll. Toast butter side-down in a heavy skillet over medium heat, about 3 minutes. • Remove the roll, reduce the heat to low and melt the remaining 1 teaspoon butter in the hot skillet. Crack the egg into the skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until the egg white is opaque and the yolk reaches desired doneness, about 1 minute. • While the egg is cooking, spread the chimichurri aioli on the toasted ciabatta. Sprinkle with the cheese, top with the fried egg and serve immediately.
SIMPLE BAKED FISH WITH CHIMICHURRI ROJO The cook time depends on the fillets’ thickness, so judge doneness by how the fish looks, rather than the clock. 4 SERVINGS 1 lb. boneless, skinless halibut, mahi mahi or tilapia fillets 1 Tbsp. olive oil or melted unsalted butter Kosher salt, to taste ½ cup basic red chimichurri 1 lemon, quartered, for serving • Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Spray a glass baking dish with cooking spray. • Place the fish in the baking dish in a single layer. Brush the fillets with oil or butter and sprinkle with the salt, then the chimichurri. Bake until the fish is opaque and flaky, about 10 minutes. Serve with fresh lemon wedges.
EASY WEEKNIGHT CHIMICHURRI PASTA 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 lb. whole-wheat penne pasta ½ cup basic green or red chimichurri
¼ cup shredded Parmesan, plus more for garnish 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 to 3 cups shredded cooked chicken 1 large tomato, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 Tbsp. fresh oregano (optional) • Cook the pasta according to package directions. Reserve 2 tablespoons cooking water and drain. • In a large glass bowl, whisk together the pasta water, chimichurri, Parmesan and lemon juice. Add the pasta and chicken and toss well. Gently fold in the tomato, then add salt and pepper, to taste. Garnish with additional Parmesan and fresh oregano, if desired. Serve hot or cold.
SWEET POTATO WEDGE FRIES WITH CHIMICHURRI
Mix the chimichurri with two tablespoons mayonnaise for an extra indulgent dip. 2 TO 4 SERVINGS 1½ to 2 lbs. sweet potatoes, skin on 2 Tbsp. olive oil ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes 1 ∕8 tsp. smoked paprika ¼ cup basic green chimichurri, for dipping • Place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 425 degrees. • Slice the potatoes into ½-inchthick wedges. Combine the potato wedges, olive oil, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes and smoked paprika in a large mixing bowl and mix until well coated. • Place the wedges in a single layer on the hot baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes, then flip. Bake until the second side is brown and the wedges are soft, about 5 to 10 more minutes. Serve hot with the chimichurri on the side.
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43
stuff to do:
OCTOBER BY SOPHIE TEGENU AND JANE THIER
Month of Magic Saturdays and Sundays in October – La Patisserie Chouquette, 1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com Bring out your finest invisibility cloaks and brooms for La Patisserie Chouquette’s annual Month of Magic when Chouquette offers treats fit for everyone’s favorite bespectacled wizard, like pumpkin pasties, treacle tarts, meat pies and butterbeer. The Botanical Heights bakery is open Sundays just for this witchy month, so dress in your finest wizarding wardrobe and get your magical fix.
Best of Missouri Market Oct. 5 – noon to 8 p.m.; Oct. 6 and 7 – 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.677.5100, mobot.org This three-day market festival features more than 120 food and beverage producers. Purveyors like Capitalist Pig, Fitz’s Root Beer, Mama’s on The Hill and Float Trip Pickles represent the local cohort, and out-of-towners like Frontier Soups and Grate Roots Premium Horseradish also join the party. Tickets available online or at the door.
Taco Pop-Up Oct. 13 – 6 to 9 p.m., 1862 S. 10th St., St. Louis, 314.833.4770, thewoodshacksoulard.com Chefs Tello Carreón and Chris Delgado combine their talents at this popup event, located at The Wood Shack in Soulard. Tacos feature Delgado’s smoked meats topped with Carreón’s traditional Mexican sauces. Purchase tacos filled with duck carnitas, lamb barbacoa, chili-rubbed brisket and vegetarian chorizo, as well as chips served with salsa verde, guajillo salsa and guacamole. Wash it down with a specialty margarita and beer for purchase.
denotes a sauce-sponsored event
Oct. 5 – 3 to 7 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, foodtruckfridaystl.com Join us at the last Food Truck Friday of 2018 featuring more than 20 trucks like Cha Cha Chow, Crooked Boot and Go Gyro Go. Sip local pours from
44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Oct. 14 – 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., 5400 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Square Off Pizza Festival Decide who makes the best square slice in town when eight area pizzerias like Cusanelli’s Restaurant, FlamentCo’s The Place and St. Louis Pizza & Wings duke it out for your vote. Sample them all to vote for your favorite and purchase more St. Louis snacks like gooey butter cake and toasted ravioli. Enjoy live music, lawn games and kids’ activities from Eckert’s Country Farm like a petting zoo and face painting. Tickets available online.
Harvest Festival Oct. 14 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, harvestfeststl.com Sauce Magazine’s annual harvest festival returns at a new location: Tower Grove Park. Celebrate the bounty of the season at this free event with dozens of area restaurants, breweries, wineries, farmers and artisans. Purchase food, drink, produce and art from vendors like Grace Meat & Three, Aya Sofia, Seoul Taco, Perennial Artisan Ales, Brick River Cider and many more. Dance along to the downhome sounds of local bluegrass, country and blues musicians.
Food Truck Friday
sponsored events
Square Off Pizza Festival
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co., Brick River Cider and Noboleis Vineyards while you enjoy live music from Rum Drum Ramblers. Take your time and skip the line – buy Speed Passes online and pick them up at the Sauce tent!
Brewer’s Guild Halloween Party Oct. 27 – 1 to 5 p.m., Lafayette Park, 2023 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, stlbeer.org Don your Halloween costume and trick or treat at this fall beer festival. Dozens of area breweries like 2nd Shift Brewing Co., 4204 Main Street Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Brew Hub Taproom pour samples, while area food trucks sell tasty bites to soak up the booze. As you sip, take a spin through the park on the keg-laden Haunted Hay Ride, enter the annual costume contest and do the Monster Mash to live music. Tickets available online.
Grove Fest Oct. 6 – 2 to 11 p.m., The Grove, Manchester Avenue between Arco Avenue and Sarah Street, St. Louis, 314.535.5311, thegrovestl.com Prepare for this free all-day party at The Grove’s annual street festival. Stroll through the Food Village and purchase
from neighborhood favorites like Firecracker Pizza, Atomic Cowboy, Just John, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and upcoming Beast Butcher and Block. Live music acts include Aaron Carter, Boomtown United, Mvstermind and others.
October 2018
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45
WHAT I DO
Caryn Dugan A decade ago, Caryn Dugan was a self-professed Lean Cuisine queen who couldn’t prepare a meal without microwave instructions. After losing her father to cancer and battling her own diagnosis, she purged her kitchen and leapt into the world of plant-based cooking. Today she’s STL Veg Girl, hosting cooking classes, seminars and, most recently, a national nutrition summit with the mission of promoting health through food. Here’s how Dugan aims to get a plant on every St. Louisan’s plate. – Catherine Klene
“I just dismissed [ a v e ga n d i e t ] because – no disrespect to absolutely anyone, and I’ve learned a lot in these past many years – that lifestyle seemed too bizarre to me.” “There is i r r e f u ta b l e science behind the p o w e r o f a p l a n tb a s e d d i e t. Nobody’s going to say to you, ‘You know, I don’t know if you should be eating that much broccoli.’
That’s really the simplicity of it. That’s why I love this so much. It is the most simple way, the most progressive way and the safest way to bring back good health.” “I’m not here b e at i n g t h e v e g a n d r u m . I am not a food crusader. I want everybody to do their own thing because food is incredibly subjective and incredibly personal. If I tell you you need to wear a seatbelt when you drive, you’ll say, ‘OK, we can still be friends.’ If I tell you you should not be eating things because of whatever, you’re going to be like, ‘Eff you!’ That’s the difference, and I don’t want to create those kinds of relationships with anybody.” “ Ov e r t h e l a st three years, I’ve been feeling this r u m b l e , if you will. More people asking me about services, venues asking for more classes – there’s just more of an interest.
46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
… It’s gone from more of an entertaining, curiosity thing and lightheartedness to, ‘Oh my God, this is the real deal.’” “ W e h av e a l o t o f c h e f s w h o wa n t to ple ase their p at r o n s . Chefs are becoming very open to offering plant-based options – and I mean
full plates, not just sides – and I think they take a lot of pride in that. … Find your favorite place, call in advance, talk to the chef. Do your homework.”
to a steakhouse and eat a porterhouse. Food has consumed me.”
“A l o t o f p e o p l e ta l k a b o u t w o r k life balance. T h a t ’ s B S . It’s all my life. I don’t secretly go
stlveggirl.com, Facebook and Twitter: STLVegGirl, Instagram: STL_Veg_Girl
October 2018
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
“ I wa s j u s t a b s o l u t e ly s c a r e d t o d e at h . I was trying to help my mom out; I was trying to help my brother out. I was wondering what the heck was going on with my own life. It was the culmination of those two things that catapulted my interest into trying to become ‘healthy’ because I didn’t know what that meant. I just didn’t want to get cancer again.”
October 2018
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47
48 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2018
