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BARTENDERS WHO ARE SHAKING THINGS UP

BOURBON, BUTTER B A C O N

3 N EW PL ACE S

CHICKEN WINGS OF

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ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

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YOUR DREAMS SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

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P. 27 FREE, OCTOBER 2016

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O C T O B E R 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 10 You can only have one: bourbon, butter or bacon

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS I’d choose bourbon. Its smoky, caramel vanilla notes add such depth to my cooking and it has medicinal purposes.

FACT CHECKER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2016 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Butter! For bourbon, I could use an aged rum, Meera Nagarajan and there are other Heather Hughes cured pork products, Catherine Klene but there's just no substitute for butter.

Tiffany Leong Catherine Klene Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, David Kovaluk, Dave Moore, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt Berkley, Olivia Dansky, Isabella Espinoza, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Tiffany Leong, Marianne Moore, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz Kristin Schultz Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Bourbon, duh Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Elizabeth Bruchhauser, Olivia Dansky, Isabella Espinoza, Brianna Velarde

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 October 2016

October 2016

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publisher’s perspective

allyson mace delivering the inaugural issue of sauce magazine in 2001

that make our culinary community so fantastic. Starting as an online restaurant guide in 1999, Sauce has become not just a beloved culinary publication, but host to some of St. Louis’ favorite summer events like Food Truck Friday and Saucy Soirée, along with our fall favorite, Harvest Festival (back again on Sunday, Oct. 16 at Laumeier Sculpture Park – see p. 48 for details).

We’ve built relationships with chefs, businesses and readers that have made us successful through cultural shifts, recessions and myriad changes in the media and publishing industries. We are grateful for our continued existence and relevance in a digital age. Even in the face of overwhelming unpredictability, an entrepreneurial spirit can be difficult to suppress – and passion is nearly impossible to extinguish.

I T ’S H A R D TO I M A G I N E T H E F I R ST S L I G H T, 1 6 - PA G E I S S U E O F S A U C E M A G A Z I N E N O W, WHEN YOU CAN WALK INTO MORE THAN 800 LOCAL BUSINESSES AND PICK UP A F R E E C O P Y O F ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A R Y A U T H O R I T Y. It’s been 15 years since we developed that first issue in the makeshift headquarters of a South City apartment and delivered them out of the back of my old SUV.

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In the last decade and a half, the magazine has exceeded our wildest expectations. We have shined the spotlight on the people and places

I am proud of Sauce’s heritage and how we’ve evolved over the years, of the talent and passion of our staff and contributors who put out culinary content this city has come to depend on. I am also aware that success would be impossible without our readers and supporters, who have helped shape the direction of this magazine considerably over the last 15 years. Thank you.

Cheers to another year in this delicious city,

Allyson Mace Publisher and Founder

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contents OCTOBER 2016

editors' picks

dine & drink

11

25

EAT THIS

A SEAT AT THE BAR

Glazed Wings at Diner’s Delight

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by meera nagarajan

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

13

HIT LIST 3 new places to try this month

by heather hughes

27

ELIXIR Oktoberfest with the best

by katie herrera

14

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

28

Scott McKinney of Randolfi's

Pozole

by meera nagarajan

REVIEWS 17

VEGETIZE IT by kellie hynes 31

MAKE THIS Apple-burrata salad

by dee ryan

NEW AND NOTABLE

Features

Midtown Sushi & Ramen

LAST COURSE

by michael renner 20

34

TOP SHELF 48

5 bartenders you need to know

by olivia dansky and isabella espinoza

by kristin schultz

50

40

Scarlett’s Wine Bar

Marie-Anne Velasco of Nudo House

BOURBON, BUTTER, BACON

by matt berkley

by catherine klene

LUNCH RUSH Carl’s Deli

by andrew barrett 23 PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

bacon-pear upside-down cake p. 40

NIGHTLIFE

October 2016

STUFF TO DO

WHAT I DO

COVER DETAILS TOP SHELF Clockwise from top, meet your new best bartender friends: Sasha Alms, David Greteman, Kate Kinsey, Chelsea Little and Nick Digiovanni.

Learn more about these spirited professionals on p. 34.

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

by marianne moore

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

In business since 1969, DINER’S DELIGHT has been around long enough to know a thing or two about chicken.

Its tender, sticky HONEY-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS are fried until crackling crisp, then lacquered in a spicy PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

honey glaze for a finishing touch of sweet heat. Practice makes perfect chicken wings.

DINER’S DELIGHT, 1504 S. COMPTON AVE., ST. LOUIS, 314.776.9570, FACEBOOK: DINER’S DELIGHT STL

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The Garden on Grand aims to bring Eden indoors with its expansive wood bar, tables cut from the same tree trunk, exposed brick and more live plants than you can shake a stick at. Order a glass of wine from trendy regions like Portugal or Washington state, then start with the rich panseared duck dumplings, plump with tender duck confit, celery, onion and carrot, served with a simple ginger soy sauce. Or try the crispy shrimp rolls: big, meaty shrimp folded into spring roll wrappers and deep-fried, served with a thick, sweet chile-garlic sauce.

Don’t miss the pistachio-crusted roast salmon, served on a bed of decadent lemon-truffle risotto and a bright green brushstroke of asparagus puree. Meat lovers should opt for the remarkably tender lamb chops; four or eight chops are stacked atop an island of creamy celery root puree alongside a mound of al dente broccolini with almond brown butter and crispy fingerling potatoes.

hit list

THE GARDEN ON GRAND

3 new places to try this month

2245 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.898.3788, thegardenongrand.com

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Tune in to 90.7 KWMU when Sauce editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene discuss this month’s Hit List, and don’t miss Sound Bites later in October when Nudo House co-owners Marie-Anne Velasco and Qui Tran discuss the rise of ramen in STL. lamb chops at the garden on grand

With its long menu of boozy NARWHAL’S slushies and committed nautical theme, the one thing Narwhal’s Crafted Urban Ice might be missing is a pool. From the boardwalk-y planks of weathered wood on the walls to its narwhal mascot with an ornery expression, the bar feels like a vacation spot. Calories don’t count on vacation, so settle into the patio lounge chairs and sip on an ice cream-based treat like the minty Flying Grasshopper or the root beer float. If you’re feeling classic, go for the frozen Negroni or bourbon slush.

They may be pulled from a slushie machine, but Narwhal’s cocktails aren’t sugar bombs soaked in vodka. The mixes are made in-house with real fruit and juices, and each tastes delightfully distinct.

You may have seen YouTube videos of Thai ice cream rolls being made halfway across the world, but now you can watch it live in The Loop. Snow Factory ice cream is made to order: Fillings and a liquid base are mixed up on a minus 10-degree cold plate, then smoothed into a thin layer.

The ice cream is then scraped off into rolled tubes and placed in serving cups like an edible bouquet. Try the light, fresh Matcha Cavalier, which features matcha ice cream mixed with bright strawberries. Or, classic Oreo, brownie and chocolate team up in the Black Humor. Prefer scoops to Thai-style rolls? Order a bubble wrap-like egg waffle cone – which is more of a tender waffle wrapped around ice cream than a crispy cone. Grab a booth inside the bright little space and enjoy your treat to the tune of upbeat dance music.

3906 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8388, narwhalscrafted.com

6602 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.669.9300, snowfactorystl.com

SNOW FACTORY

the garden on grand slushies at narwhal's October 2016

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Randolfi’s 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221, randolfis.com

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

Despite being one of The Diners Club’s best restaurants in the world, it took a full year before Manresa received a response to its request for stages. Scott McKinney was the first person to take the bait, working unpaid for two months with the sommelier of the Los Gatos, California restaurant before he was hired as assistant beverage director. While working the bar, McKinney drank in beverage director and sommelier Jeff Bareilles’ wine list and fell in love with Burgundy wines. McKinney returned to his hometown of St. Louis and became Randolfi’s sommelier, where he curates an Old-World wine list. Here are two meals from McKinney’s stint on the West Coast that changed his life.

– Meera Nagarajan

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LOCANDA, SAN FRANCISCO, (2012) “The food was great, but it wasn’t the food that was so alluring – it was my first real exposure to amari. I’d had fernet, but their amari list was so in-depth and so huge. (My friend and I) each did a flight of eight and got different things – that’s how extensive the list was.

Our server set them down in a specific order, then went through and explained why and what you would get out of each of them. That’s one thing that stuck out: Our server knew just as much about the amari as the bartender. I don’t remember the name (of the most impressive), but I remember its profile: It was this amaro from southeastern Europe and the base of it was honey. So you got this burnt orange flavor, these honey flavors and floral flavors, but also that soft bitterness in the background you would get if you burned a pan of honey.”

DIO DEKA FINE HELLENIC CUISINE, LOS GATOS, CALIFORNIA (2012) “Dio Deka is a Greek-inspired restaurant down the street from Manresa in Los Gatos. The Manresa people knew all the Dio Deka people, so it was this camaraderie kind of thing.

We got treated like royalty whenever we went in. We would have nights where we would have like five, six, seven bottles of wine. That restaurant is the perfect place to hang out with your friends and spend a lot of money. They sent out some 90-day dry-aged, bone-in rib-eye, just a giant hunk of meat.

We cut pieces off it, and then here’s this bone sitting on the plate. There’s still a little meat on the bone and – no shame – I pick it up and start gnawing the rest of the meat off it in the middle of a very classy restaurant. And the chef – it was an open kitchen – he sees me doing this and just gives me the thumbs up, like, ‘That’s what I’m talking about.’”

October 2016

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

S C OT T M CK IN N EY

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

hakata ramen at midtown sushi & ramen

new and notable Midtown Sushi & Ramen

A

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

fter eating here a few times, I propose reversing the order of the dishes featured in Midtown’s name. With only four options on my visits, the ramen seemed to attract the most customers, something unheard of when sushi was the defining dish of Japanese cuisine. National trends have propelled the rise of ramen, and with increased interest in noodle soups from other Asian countries like Vietnam, Korea, Thailand and Taiwan, it’s no wonder people are paying more attention to the details and subtleties of humankind’s most ingenious meal-in-a-bowl.

new and notable MIDTOWN SUSHI & RAMEN p. 17 / lunch rush CARL'S DELI p. 20 / nightlife SCARLETT'S WINE BAR p. 23 October 2016

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is usually at the sushi bar, while Mom, who has her share of culinary credentials, works the soups in the open kitchen.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

The best ramen was the Nagasaki champon, a heady mélange of noodles, seafood and vegetables swimming in a delicately flavored broth. Then again, there was the Hakata ramen with smoked pork belly, a custard-soft egg, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, corn kernels and bean sprouts. Kimchi ramen was a mashup of both, funked up with the spicy fermented cabbage. A bowl of plain ramen kept it simple with just noodles and eggs. Three new versions should be available by now: duck, curry and vegetarian.

Tonkotsu is the most common broth base for ramen, made by boiling pork bones until everything – fat, marrow, minerals, proteins – is emulsified into an opaque liquid that looks like light cream and has a slightly oleaginous mouth feel from the shiny droplets of fat that glisten on the lips after each delicious slurp. Sutton tames the broth’s natural intensity by adding chicken bones to the equation, producing a lighter flavor without losing its porky essence. the interior at midtown sushi & ramen

The sushi at Midtown Sushi & Ramen is fine – competent but mostly unremarkable, aside from the fact that it’s always nice to have a few nigiri while reading a menu or a roll to share over a couple bowls of soup. The menu also includes everyday Japanese dishes like gydon: paper-thin slices of shaved beef (think Philly cheesesteak) and slivered onions simmered in a sweet-savorysalty broth until thickened into a sauce.

Served over white rice, it’s exactly the

AT A GLANCE midtown sushi & ramen

October 2016

kind of simple comfort food you want after a crazy day at work.

Broth and noodles are the heart of ramen, but like pizza, the regional variations are endless. Owner Conan Sutton sticks to what he knows best: his mother Michiko Sutton’s recipes from Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands and home to ramen styles Nagasaki and Hakata. Sutton, a veteran of several sushi restaurants,

Where 3674 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.2452, midtown-sushi.com

Don’t Miss Dishes Nagasaki and Hakata ramens

While the same broth united Midtown’s four ramens, key ingredients, flavoring and noodle style set them apart. That Hakata bowl, for instance, got its punch from pickled ginger and surprising extra depth of flavor from the thin discs of rolled pork belly smoked next door at Dixon’s Smoke Co. and torched to a delicate char. The Nagasaki champon is typical of that region’s Chineseinfluenced noodle soups. In addition to a few clams, shrimp and vegetables (carrot, mushroom, onion, cabbage and

Vibe Old brick with stylish accents in an overly bright room

cauliflower), the broth sang with gentle notes of garlic and sesame oil. Both variations were simple and soothing.

The soft egg noodles used in Hakata and Nagasaki bowls differ in thickness, texture and preparation: thin, squiggly, springy noodles for the former, cooked separately before the soup is poured over them; thicker, chewier noodles for the latter. Typical of all Asian noodles, both are alkaline (with baking soda added to the dough), which brings its own distinctive taste and keeps the noodles from turning to mush in hot liquid.

The inside of the fast-casual restaurant is halogen-bright with a few design elements setting it apart from the bare bones motif of most mom-and-pop Asian eateries: from the Great Wave Off Kanagawa and comical Godzilla murals to the exposed brick and snappy blonde wood chairs and tables, on which you’ll find little shakers filled with togarashi seasoning. Still, four televisions line the bar and kitchen walls, playing silently while pop radio provides the background noise for about 50 seats.

With the restaurant’s newly acquired liquor license, there are three Japanese beers, Bud and Bud Light. Sake choices are limited to a couple single-serving options or a glass of boxed Sho Chiku Bai. Service is attentive and friendly with endless smiles from staff.

Situated at the eastern end of Forest Park Avenue in the former, short-lived Flying Rolls space, Midtown Sushi & Ramen sits between two other restaurants filling recent turnovers: Dixon’s Smoke Co. (previously Jimmy John’s) and Pappo’s Pizzeria & Brewery (which was Six Row Brewing Co.). It’s another example of our insatiable appetite for noodle soups and proof St. Louis has ample room for the myriad styles of ramen. Oh, and there’s sushi.

Entree Prices $12 to $15

When Tue. to Fri. – 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; 5 to 9:30 p.m., Sat. – 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Sun. – noon to 8 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

Lunch Rush CARL’S DELI

BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

The word delicatessen means “delicious food,” which is what Carl’s Deli serves up in little baskets. It’s a small joint with crooked Cardinals paraphernalia on the walls and just the right ambiance for heaving fists full of meat down one’s gullet.

However, direct comparisons to a New York deli aren’t really fair, since the friendly staff captures part of what makes St. Louis special. The menu is carefully listed on a letter board: meats on one side, vegetarian offerings on the other and a small poster showing the Vitale’s Bakery breads offered. This simplicity belies the multitude of combinations possible for amazing sandwiches.

The only way to go wrong is to show up without an appetite.

ALL THE SANDWICHES When meat is what to eat, Carl’s has every deli classic and then some – with all the cold cuts sliced fresh when you order. From the perfectly prepared hot pastrami to the ravishingly red rare roast beef, I’ve never had a bad sandwich at Carl’s. When you watch them slice the Dietz & Watson or Boar’s Head options onto your bread, you’ll wonder if you’re supposed to say when to stop. Add lettuce, tomato, onion and jalapeno for a bit of crunch and spice in what would otherwise be a mountain of melt-in-yourmouth meat. Spicy mustard is a must, and I hope you like mayo. On one of my visits, a patron asked for “a little mayo,” and his bread

was slathered tip to toe. It was beautiful.

SPECIAL DELI BOY The Deli Boy is Carl’s take on what a sandwich should be. With ham, turkey and salami, plus American and Swiss cheeses, it marries some all-time favorites for the indecisive deli diner and challenges the largest appetites with a combination that’s distinct, yet familiar.

HOT PASTRAMI Dripping with spicy juice and soaking its sandwich bread with beefy sweat, Carl’s hot pastrami was a treat. There’s a turkey version, but the classic pastrami was the star of the show – and Carl’s bestseller. Try it with an onion roll, melted provolone and horseradish. If that’s too much zing, wheat bread and spicy mustard are traditional for a reason.

THE REUBEN Stacked comically high with salty, warm corned beef, Carl’s Deli Reuben made my short list as one of

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hot pastrami

the three best in St Louis.

Unlike the others, there’s only one correct way to order a Reuben: topped with melty Swiss and sauerkraut, drenched in pink Thousand Island on rye. Anything else just isn’t kosher.

Carl’s deli 6401 Clayton Road., Clayton, 314.721.2393, carlsdelistl.com

THE DOWNSIDE Seating is limited; getting lunch to-go can be the best strategy, depending on the crowd. Side dishes are also limited, if you have any extra room at all – in which case, go for the pasta salad and mustard potato salad. They aren’t made inhouse, but they’re still a cut above the average grocery store options.

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nightlife

reviews

Scarlett’s Wine Bar

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE

was a waterproof iPad. Guests can browse the touch screen, swiping through about 23 reds, 25 whites and a handful of rosé and sparkling options, along with pairing recommendations. But orders are taken the oldfashioned way, by attentive Scarlett’s and knowledgeable wine bar servers. The staff has 4253 Laclede Ave., a solid grasp of the St. Louis, 314.797.8223, menu, which is stocked Facebook: Scarlett’s with approachable, Wine Bar predominately European wines like the Gerard Bertrand, a medium syrah-grenache blend or the La Petite Perriere, a light and summery sauvignon blanc that went insanely well with a plate of smoked trout.

Wines by the glass hover around $9 to $12.

The cocktail menu was nothing to write home about, but the beer was. A summer selection heavy on session brews like saisons, farmhouse ales, sours and Weisse beers was suited for slow patio sipping.

S

carlett’s Wine Bar in the Central West End, owned by the same people as Sasha’s Wine Bars, serves up rich, generous pours from a finely curated menu. But the real stars at this chic little come-as-you-are bistro are the crispy slices of pizza charred in the wood-fire oven dominating the kitchen. Here are a few reasons to pull up a chair at Sasha’s feisty new little sister.

Food The breakfast pizza, quickly fired to perfection in the enormous 750-degree oven, arrived bright and bubbly. Slivers of bacon were crisp, crumbles of sausage were thick, and the savory herbed cheddar and mozzarella cheeses were artfully dressed with hunks of tomato. The crispy house-made crust was slightly blackened in all the right places and soft and fluffy in all the others – great for dipping in

October 2016

the sunny egg yolk in the center of the pie. Other wood-fired pizzas include a classic Margherita and a savory-sweet pear and prosciutto pie that came with fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of scallions.

The menu offers a variety of options: smoked trout plates, cheese and meat boards, a burger, salads and other entrees familiar to fans of Sasha’s, but the draw here is definitely the pizza. While many wine bars have a bad habit of slinging meager, overpriced flatbreads, Scarlett’s pies are reason enough for a return visit.

Drink On Friday nights I’m getting comfortably numb with a second glass of Field Recordings Neverland, a big, bold California blend recommended by my server who assured me, quite correctly, I wouldn’t be disappointed. This and the rest of the menu were presented on what I hope

Space A cushy, communal booth runs the length of the main barroom, which is appointed with chic marble-topped tables and walls covered in repurposed wine crates. A long table in the back is flanked by a massive wall of wine racks looking onto the boisterous open kitchen.

The best seats in the house are out front on the pleasant little patio littered with a handful of tables and classic Parisian cafe chairs. Old-World, European style meets Napa Valley cool throughout the mature, well-dressed space.

Atmosphere Much like the jazz reverberating through hidden speakers in the main room, the vibe at Scarlett’s is low-key. Patrons in their 30s and 40s, some with toddlers in tow, settle up their tabs and skedaddle as darkness falls, making room for younger, lively groups of casual but well-heeled friends.

A slightly smashed nightcap crowd packs the patio and hovers over the bar till last call around 1 a.m.

Situated next to the popular Northwest Coffee on the quiet corner of Laclede and Boyle avenues, the smart yet unassuming little wine bar is well on its way to becoming a neighborhood staple.

ORDER IT: Scarlett's Wine Bar

The wood-fired breakfast pizza from Scarlett’s

Order a glass of Field Recordings Neverland, a big red California blend.

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dine

& drink natural wines are made without additives or preservatives that influence flavor.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Hailing from Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery in Nashville, Tennessee, Belle Meade Bourbon is an exciting new addition to the Missouri market. The Nelson brothers resurrected their triple-great-grandfather’s TED AND JAMIE brand in 2009, a century KILGORE after shutting down because USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart of Prohibition. Steeped in and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House history and flavor, the fullbodied spirit has distinct creme brulee notes at first taste, followed by robust cinnamon, clove, allspice and black walnut, finished with spiced dried orange. $38. The Wine Merchant, winemerchantltd.com October 2016

Frey Vineyards has made organic natural wines (no added yeast, acid, sugar or sulfites) since 1980. The earthy and fruity GLENN BARDGETT Natural White Member of the Missouri Wine loves a swirl in your and Grape Board and wine glass to bring out director at Annie Gunn’s the aroma, and the Natural Red is soft and round with a solid finish perfect for meat or cheese. Both blends have character worth more than their $10 a bottle. Friar Tuck Beverage, friartuckonline.com

Fall is the time to go apple picking, but I prefer apple drinking.

This season, I’m enjoying Bere Aran Sidra Natural, a still cider from the Basque region of Spain.

This beauty boasts 60 KATIE HERRERA apple varietals, no added Co-founder of Femme sugar and is fermented Ferment and manager at The Side Project Cellar with native yeast. Along with fresh apple, the aroma offers notes of flowers, grass and salt water, while the palate is funky, tart and briny, like biting into a fresh, juicy Granny Smith. $9.50. The Wine & Cheese Place, wineandcheeseplace.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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BEER

oktoberfest with the best

BY KATIE HERRERA

Fall brings the beer world’s most recognized and celebrated festival: Oktoberfest. Known in Munich as Wiesn, Oktoberfest first took place in 1810, spans approximately two weeks and brings in about 6 million visitors each year. This year, it runs from Sept. 17 to Oct. 3.

Oktoberfest beers poured at Wiesn must be brewed within Munich’s city limits. They’re also lagered (fermented and stored at a cool temperature), maltforward with light to medium body and bitterness, and boast an aroma and flavor profile predominantly driven by grain and, to a lesser extent, hops. The alcohol intensity and appearance of the beers, however, run the gamut.

Breweries around the world celebrate Oktoberfest through September and October with their own seasonal recipes, incorporating its traditions into their repertoire. It’s time to embrace the lederhosen, dirndl dresses, beer steins, massive tents and beautiful lagers that perfectly complement the autumn weather. Ozapft is! (The barrel is tapped!)

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

SCHLAFLY NOBLE LAGER (5-percent ABV) Although not an Oktoberfest by name, this new seasonal release stands with the best of the German-style lagers.

The bright golden beer has a grainy and lightly grassy aroma and a vibrant palate with mildly malty sweetness, dried grass and hop spice notes with a clean, lightly bitter finish.

THE CIVIL LIFE OKTOBERFEST (5.1-percent ABV) This amber lager embraces the palate with perfection. It smells of baked bread and floral hops, tastes of toast and grain, and finishes with a round, clean bitterness.

FIRESTONE WALKER OAKTOBERFEST (5-percent ABV) This maerzen has a medium body, great texture and a rich malt character highlighted by nuances of honey, earth and mild hop spice, while a smooth, round bitterness brings out the finish.

AYINGER OKTOBER FEST-MÄRZEN (5.8-percent ABV) Deep gold in color and medium bodied,

this Bavarian beauty is full of malty goodness. Biscuit, hay and honey dominate the nose, while bread and malt sweetness finish off the palate.

upfront finishes dry and crisp with light grass and hop spice notes.

LEFT HAND OKTOBERFEST (6.6-percent ABV) Pouring a beautiful copper color and smelling of German malt and hops, it’s light on the palate. The toasty breadiness and light malt sweetness

Civil Life Oktoberfest is on tap at its brewery: 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com // All other beers available at Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton.craftbeercellar.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

VEGETIZE IT

Vegan Pozole

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS

BY CARMEN TROESSER

I

appreciate that some people peruse this column just to see what crazy thing I sneak onto Carnivore Bob’s plate, and have no intent to actually cook it.

But this soup is for everyone. The technique is brilliant, and the dish is healthy, filling and spicy enough to warm you all over without frying your sinuses.

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October 2016

My friend introduced me to pozole, which her Mexican-American family cooks on weekends and special occasions. First they make broth from chunks of bone-in pork or chicken and hominy, then toss two kinds of chiles, an onion and garlic in the blender until a paste forms. Next – this part makes me giddy – they put a finemesh strainer in the pot of boiling broth and spoon the paste into the strainer, infusing the percolating liquid with heat and herbs. When the strainer is removed, no unseemly chile seeds, onion skins or garlic chunks are left behind. It’s an everyman’s bouquet garni (herbs bundled in a cheesecloth square). While I can’t possibly be expected to have squares of cheesecloth on hand, I am certain to have a clean strainer nearby, or, in a pinch, a looseleaf tea ball.

For expert help making my own vegetarian pozole, I turned to Adela Esparza, owner of Lily’s Mexican Restaurant and the nicest lady in town. She blanched at the thought of pozole without rich, sweet pork broth, but recovered enough to describe traditional garnishes that are served on the side: sliced cabbage or lettuce, lime wedges, cilantro and, occasionally, diced onion. Instead of a bread roll, Esparza suggested carbing up with a crisp fried tortilla, or tostada.

is brighter and more citrusy than its Italian cousin. The result: a roundly spiced vegetable soup that was an absolute kick to make. Like many soups and stews (all of which can be flavored using your new favorite strainer trick), the pozole will taste even better the second day.

VEGAN POZOLE 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 dried guajillo chile, stemmed 1 dried ancho chile, stemmed 1 small white onion, quartered 1 garlic clove 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 2 tsp. dried Mexican oregano 6 cups vegetable broth 1 29-oz. can hominy, drained and rinsed 1 15-oz. can diced tomatoes 4 bay leaves

½ tsp. kosher salt 1 15.5-oz. can pinto beans, rinsed For garnish: 2 limes, quartered ¼ head small green cabbage, thinly sliced 2 radishes, julienned 1 bunch cilantro, chopped 1 small red onion, diced 6 to 8 tostadas • Boil enough water to cover the chiles. Place the guajillo and ancho chiles in a small bowl, then pour the boiling water over them. Let soak 20 minutes and drain.

• In the bowl of a food processor, add the chiles, onion, garlic, tomato paste and oregano. Pulse a few times, scraping down the sides as

needed, until the mixture forms a paste. Set aside.

• In a large pot, add the vegetable broth, hominy, tomatoes, bay leaves and salt. Bring to a low boil over mediumhigh heat and cook 10 minutes.

• Reduce the heat to medium, then add the chile mixture to a fine mesh strainer. Place the strainer in the broth, making sure the base is submerged in the liquid. Simmer 10 to 20 minutes, tasting regularly until the desired spice level is achieved.

• Remove the strainer and discard the paste. Stir in the pinto beans and simmer 10 more minutes, until the beans are heated through and the hominy has softened.

• Serve with the lime wedges, cabbage, radishes, cilantro, red onion and tostadas on the side.

Now educated in the traditions of pozole-makers, I created a vegetarian version, substituting red beans for meat, adding tomatoes to mimic the burnt-umber color of a pork broth, and using robust but mild guajillo and ancho chiles. I also added a good amount of Mexican oregano, which

October 2016

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October 2016

MAKE THIS APPLE-BURRATA SALAD

Cabbage, apples and creamy burrata cheese come together for a sophisticated spin on a humble salad.

In a large bowl, whisk together ¼ cup lime juice, ¼ cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons maple syrup and a few drops of hot sauce. Add a 10-ounce bag of shredded green cabbage, 1 thinly sliced Pink Lady or Granny Smith apple and ¼ cup chopped fresh dill. Toss well to combine. Top the salad with a 4-ounce ball of room-temperature burrata and slice it into quarters, allowing the cheese to seep out and mix with the dressed salad. Sprinkle with ¼ cup chopped toasted walnuts and serve. – Dee Ryan

MAKE THIS

ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Burrata looks like your basic ball of mozzarella, but the inside is filled with cream-soaked curds.

If you can’t find burrata, substitute fresh mozzarella or whole milk ricotta.

October 2016

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TOP SHELF five bartenders you should know

BY K RISTIN SCH U LT Z // PH OTOS BY C ARMEN TR O E S SER

While you may have bartender besties at your go-to happy hour, some new restaurants have brought out fresh talent, and established bars quietly foster some of the best in the business.

Expand your circle of friends to these bartenders and managers who are as good as the drinks they slide to the rail.

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October 2016

chelsea little BAR MANAGER // O LIVE & OAK When the muchlauded Olive & Oak opened earlier this year, it received high marks for its straightforward food and top-notch wine program, but the Webster Groves eatery excels at more than vittles and vino. The Libertine alum Chelsea Little manages the bar, working adeptly with seasonal, houseinfused ingredients, uncommon spirits and imagination.

FIRST COCKTAIL EXPERIENCE “I was introduced to the scene working at The Libertine. Watching (bar manager) Ben Bauer, I was like, ‘Oh damn, this is amazing.’

I had just turned 21, and we would always go to Sanctuaria late

October 2016

night. My first cocktail there was a brandy Old-Fashioned. I realized that booze isn’t just there for you to get your buzz on, but is amazing when it’s balanced and well done.”

WHAT SHE DRINKS AT HOME “It’s not very classy, but I can knock back Miller Lite.”

WHAT MAKES A GOOD DRINK “Balance. I like there to be umami in cocktails – where the flavors are savory but also tart. You find the right ingredients that will sit well on the palate. My favorite drink on the menu right now is The Professor. It’s plum-infused rum with amaretto and absinthe, bitters and lemon juice.”

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sasha alms BE VER AGE SU PERVISO R THE PRESTO N

Hotel bars are not widely known for high-quality bar programs – no one is running to the Motel 6 for happy hour. Thanks to Element and Central Table veteran Sasha Alms, you won’t find sad-sack business travelers slamming bad vodka tonics at The Preston. Instead, Alms serves familiar and approachable cocktails alongside intriguing libations for the more adventurous drinker.

FAVORITE ORIGINAL COCKTAIL “The Smokey and The Bandito on the menu now. It has smoked poblano peppers blended into tequila, Ancho Reyes (a chile liqueur), lime juice and agave with a smoked sea salt rim and caramelized lime wheel garnish. It’s unusual. I’m a fan of savory cocktails.”

BOTTLE OF INSPIRATION “The local spirits scene is inspiring. At Big O Ginger Liqueur, the family comes together to make every batch. They peel and chop ginger together.”

WHAT IT TAKES TO BE SUCCESSFUL “Be a gracious host. I joke that I’m the host of my own party behind the bar. I’m going to take care of you, and you’ll have a good time. You could be at a place that serves stale popcorn and cheap beer and still everyone has a good time if you show them a good time.”

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October 2016

kate kinsey BAR MANAGER // PL ANTER ' S H O USE

You could call it the house that Ted built, and you’d be right, but Planter’s House is staffed to the hilt with talented, creative and truly professional bartenders besides co-owners Ted and Jamie Kilgore. Among them is Kate Kinsey, whom Jamie has called “a quiet storm.” Kinsey’s refined palate and knack for catching on got her second October 2016

place in a national cocktail competition at the Tales of the Cocktail conference in New Orleans this year.

You Pickle-ish. It also had a nectarine shrub, Calvados, Gran Classico and lemon juice.”

COCKTAIL SHE’S MOST PROUD OF “I like drinks that are more creative and use ingredients or flavors that are out of the norm. I did a drink on the menu last year where I infused añejo tequila with pickling spices called Are

GROWING TASTES “I’ve always been interested in new flavors or things that aren’t readily available. I started gardening 15 or 20 years ago because I would hear about herbs or vegetables but couldn’t find them

anywhere, so I decided to grow them myself.”

WHAT IT TAKES TO BE SUCCESSFUL “You have to have empathy for the guest that goes beyond asking how they’re doing. It’s about making the experience about them, not about you.

You have to have awareness of your surroundings and multitask. It helps to like people.” saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

nick digiovanni BAR MANAGER // PÚ BLICO

Slinging drinks at a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist restaurant could make a barman the king of Pretentious-ville, but not Nick Digiovanni. After cutting his teeth at Eclipse’s rooftop bar, he brought a serious sense of balance and knowledge of the fundamentals to Público.

But his secret ingredient is fun,

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offering a laid-back menu that keeps thirsty cocktalians coming back for more.

FAVORITE SPIRIT RIGHT NOW “Foursquare Rum out of Barbados. They don’t add sugar or caramel color postdistillation, so the depth of flavor is purely from aging. The

9-year is one of my favorites.

It ages for three years in a bourbon barrel and six in a port cask. I drink it neat as a sipper.”

DON’T BE A KNOW-IT-ALL “Spirits knowledge is super important.

You need to be able to not only relay that information, but relay it in terms a guest can grasp. We

have a depth of knowledge – you may not mean for it to come across as pretentious, but it can.”

BOTTOM LINE “Be fun. That’s why people want to sit at the bar. (Or) maybe it’s someone who wanted a table, but we’re booked so they’re already bummed. Make the experience that much better.”

October 2016

david greteman BAR MANAGER // TA STE

At an institution like Taste, expectations are high. Now at the helm of this boozy ship is David Greteman, who, after working under former bar manager Kyle Mathis for two years, transitioned into his current role this year.

With a penchant for perfection and equal love for a bitter aperitif and a sweet tiki tipple, Greteman uses familiar and obscure ingredients that intrigue and inspire.

BOTTLE OF INSPIRATION “I like everything St. George Spirits does.

They’re doing their own bitter contratto-like aperitif called Bruto Americano. It has a Campari vibe, but way more bitter with an earthiness like Zucca or Cynar. It’s very complex, so it’s not blowing your mouth out with bitterness. I drink it over ice with club soda.”

IF HE COULDN’T TEND BAR “I’d try to focus on shoemaking. I did an apprenticeship in Hungary under a master and certified shoemaker.

I’d love to sit in a workshop and sew shoes all day. There are levels you achieve in shoemaking.

Right now, I’m a level three, and my teacher was like a level 27 or something. It’s the craziest thing when you put on a pair of shoes you made yourself.”

WHAT HE’S LEARNED “I’ve learned to be patient. I’m obsessed with details, so when the shit hits the fan and I’m facing down 15 tickets, I’m like, ‘The world is over.’ Kyle was really great at instilling that it will all work out and reach an equilibrium.”

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by marianne moore \\ photos by greg rannells

B OURB ON, BACON AND BUT TER ARE A MATCH MADE IN HE AVEN. B OURB ON MELLOWS AND GE TS SWEE TER WHEN IT CO OK S . BACON ADDS SALT Y GO ODNESS AND A WONDERFUL DEPTH OF FL AVOR. AND BUT TER? IT JUST BRING S IT ALL HOME .

SWEE T AND SAVORY, HERE ARE SOME OF THE BEST MA SHUPS FROM BRE AKFA ST TO DESSERT.

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BOURBON BUTTER BACON

October 2016

bourbon & BACON DOUGHNUTS recipe on p. 44

October 2016

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recipes SEARED CORNISH HENS WITH BOURBON-MUSTARD PAN SAUCE 4 SERVINGS 7 Tbsp. softened butter, divided 2 strips bacon, coarsely chopped 2 large garlic cloves, smashed 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 tsp. fresh thyme 1 ∕8 tsp. cayenne pepper (or more to taste) 2 1½-lb. Cornish game hens Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Olive oil, for searing 1 small shallot, minced ½ cup bourbon ¾ cup chicken stock 2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 4 Tbsp. flour • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil and place a rack or broiler pan on top.

• In the bowl of a food processor, pulse 3 tablespoons butter, the bacon, garlic, mustard, thyme and cayenne into a coarse paste.

• Place the hens breast side-down on a work surface. Use sharp kitchen scissors to cut along each side of the backbone, then remove and discard backbone. Turn over and cut through breastbone to split in two. Using your fingers, carefully loosen the skin and spread the butter mixture under the skin. Season the hens with salt and pepper.

• In a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add just enough olive oil to coat the bottom. Add the hens skin sidedown and sear until golden-brown, then flip and sear the other side, about 7 minutes each. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons fat in the skillet and set aside.

• Transfer the hens skin side-up to the rack on the baking sheet and

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roast until the temperature in the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. Place on a serving platter and loosely cover with foil.

• To make the pan sauce, place the skillet with the reserved fat over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the bourbon and deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits. Add the stock and mustard, increase the heat to high and continue to simmer until the sauce is reduced by two-thirds, 5 to 8 minutes.

• In a small bowl, mix the flour and the remaining 4 tablespoons butter to make a paste. Add a couple spoonfuls of the sauce to temper the mixture and stir. Reduce the heat to medium, then whisk in half the butter-flour mixture.

Add more butter-flour mixture as needed to thicken the sauce.

• Spoon the sauce over the hens and serve immediately.

• To a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, add the mushrooms and 2 tablespoons butter. Cook until the mushrooms are golden-brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the bourbon and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, 4 to 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and cover.

• Increase the heat to medium-high and add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Swirl the skillet until the butter becomes a deep golden-brown, about 5 minutes. Add the patties and cook until seared and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium doneness.

• Divide the cheese between the patties and cover the skillet. When the cheese has melted, place the patties on the toasted buns and top each with the mushrooms.

FRENCH TOAST BLT

•

•

•

•

4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Spoon off most of the bacon fat from the skillet.

Add 3 challah slices and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a baking sheet, then repeat with the remaining slices.

Bake the bread slices until cooked through, about 6 minutes. Top with the grated cheese and bake until the cheese melts, about 4 minutes.

To assemble, place 2 strips of bacon and 2 tomato slices each on 3 challah slices and drizzle with the vinaigrette.

Toss the spring mix with enough of the vinaigrette to coat. Divide the greens evenly over the 3 prepared challah slices and top with the remaining 3 slices. Serve warm.

ROASTED GARLIC VINAIGRETTE 1 CUP

BOURBON-MUSHROOM BURGERS 4 SERVINGS 1 lb. lean ground beef 8 strips bacon, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 1 lb. wild mushrooms (cremini, shiitake and oyster) 6 Tbsp. butter, divided ½ cup bourbon Kosher salt, to taste 8 oz. shredded Gruyere 4 brioche buns, toasted • In a large bowl, mix the beef, bacon, Worcestershire sauce and 1 teaspoon pepper. Divide into 4 even portions, form into 1-inch thick patties and set aside.

3 SERVINGS 5 eggs 2 cups heavy cream ¼ cup bourbon 6 1-inch slices challah 12 strips thick-cut bacon 2½ cups grated Gruyere 12 tomato slices (about 3 small tomatoes) Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette (recipe follows) 3 cups spring mix • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, heavy cream and bourbon until well combined. Pour in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Add the challah and soak 10 minutes. Flip the slices and soak an additional 10 minutes.

• Meanwhile, place a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until just crisp, about

2 heads of garlic ¾ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

• Slice off the tops of the garlic so the cloves are exposed. Place the garlic heads in a small baking dish and drizzle with olive oil. Cover with foil and roast until the garlic is golden brown, fragrant and softened, 20 to 25 minutes.

• Let the garlic cool, then squeeze the cloves into a blender, discarding the skins. Add the vinegar and mustard, and blend until smooth. With the machine running, add ¾ cup olive oil in a steady stream until well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

October 2016

FRENCH TOAST

blt

recipe on p. 42

October 2016

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BOURBON AND BACON DOUGHNUTS 12 SERVINGS ²∕³ cup room-temperature milk 2½ tsp. active dry yeast 3½ cups flour, plus more if needed 1½ cups sugar, divided 3 eggs 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. vanilla extract 7 Tbsp. softened butter, cut into pieces Bourbon pastry cream (recipe follows) Candied bacon (recipe follows) Canola oil, for frying 3 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 Tbsp. heavy cream 1 Tbsp. bourbon • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, stir together the milk and yeast, then let sit until the yeast dissolves, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the flour, ¹∕³ cup sugar, the eggs, salt and vanilla, and mix on low until combined. Knead on medium-low 2 to 3 minutes, then add the butter a few pieces at a time, mixing until combined and the dough is soft, about 5 minutes. The dough will be sticky, so add a few teaspoons flour to remove the dough from the bowl if needed, then wrap in plastic. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

• Meanwhile, make the pastry cream and candied bacon.

• Place the dough on a floured surface.

Roll to ½-inch thick, then use a 3-inch biscuit cutter or pint glass to cut out as many rounds as possible. Place the rounds on a baking sheet, cover loosely with a towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 2 to 3 hours.

• In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, heat a few inches of oil to 350 degrees. Add the doughnuts 2 to 3 at a time and fry until golden-brown,

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2 to 3 minutes per side. Adjust heat as needed to keep the oil at 350 degrees. (If the oil is too hot, the doughnuts will brown too quickly and leave the interiors raw.)

• Transfer the fried doughnuts to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to cool. When cool enough to handle, roll in the remaining sugar and allow to cool completely.

• Fill a pastry or zip-close bag with the pastry cream. If using a zip-close bag, cut off one corner. Poke a hole in the side of each doughnut and fill with the pastry cream.

• To make the chocolate drizzle, place the chocolate in a small bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the heavy cream and bourbon then pour over the chocolate. Cover with plastic wrap until the chocolate is melted, about 3 minutes, then whisk until smooth. Place the chocolate mixture in a small zip-close bag, cut off one corner and drizzle over the filled doughnuts.

Top with the candied bacon.

BOURBON PASTRY CREAM 2½ CUPS ½ cup sugar ¼ cup cake flour ½ tsp. sea salt 4 egg yolks 1½ cups whole milk 2 Tbsp. bourbon ¹∕³ cup cold heavy cream • In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, flour and salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and slowly add the flour mixture, whisking until smooth and pasty.

• Warm a medium saucepan over medium heat, then add the milk. Cook until bubbles form around the edges, but do not boil. Remove from heat and slowly add the milk to the batter, whisking constantly until smooth.

Return the mixture to the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until it comes to a boil and thickens, 2 to 3 minutes, then immediately remove from heat.

• Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl, then whisk in the bourbon. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing until it touches the surface of the cream. Chill at least 4 hours or overnight.

• Before serving, whip the cream in a medium bowl until stiff peaks form, 4 to 6 minutes. Gently fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream.

CANDIED BACON 12 STRIPS 1 lb. thick-cut bacon (about 12 slices) ¼ cup brown sugar • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

• Arrange the bacon in a single layer on a foil-lined sheet pan. Bake until the bacon just begins to turn golden, about 8 minutes.

• Remove the bacon from the oven and sprinkle evenly with the brown sugar.

Bake until the bacon is crisp and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool, then crumble into pieces. Store refrigerated in an airtight container up to 5 days.

BACON-PEAR UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE 9-INCH CAKE ¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp. softened butter, divided 2 Bosc pears, peeled, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices 6 strips bacon, chopped, cooked crisp and drained 1¼ cups sugar, divided ½ cup water

1 cup chopped pecans, divided ¹∕³ cup bourbon 3 ∕4 tsp. kosher salt, divided ½ cup brown sugar, firmly packed 3 eggs 2 tsp. vanilla extract 1½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda 2 cups flour ¾ cup plain yogurt • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Generously grease a 9-inch round cake pan with 1 tablespoon butter. Arrange the pear slices in an even layer in the bottom and sprinkle with the bacon.

• In a 10-inch stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat, bring 1 cup sugar and the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and maintain a steady simmer. Swirl the skillet (but do not stir) until the mixture starts to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. When the mixture turns a medium amber color, add ½ cup pecans and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from heat, let cool slightly, then slowly stir in the bourbon and ½ teaspoon salt. Pour over the pears and bacon.

• In a large bowl, beat together the remaining ¾ cup butter, brown sugar and remaining ¼ cup sugar until smooth and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla, baking powder, baking soda and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and beat until combined. Add half the flour and beat until combined. Add half the yogurt and beat until combined, then beat in the remaining flour followed by the remaining yogurt. (The batter will be thick.) Stir in the remaining ½ cup pecans. Drop spoonfuls of the batter over the pears and bacon and spread evenly.

• Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack 15 minutes. Run a knife around the side of the pan and invert onto a serving platter.

October 2016

SEARED

CORNISH HENS

WITH BOURBONMUSTARD PAN SAUCE recipe on p. 42

HOW TO COOK WITH bourbon

October 2016

start small

savory dishes

sweet dishes

infusions

If you don’t want to invest in a big bottle of bourbon for a recipe, you can’t go wrong with tiny airplane bottles. That’s also a great way to test out any liquor to see if you like it.

Bourbon works beautifully as a marinade or glaze with meats, fish or poultry. Use it to add flavor to barbecue sauces and baked beans.

Bourbon pairs well with honey, caramel and vanilla, making it suited for most baked goods.

Substitute bourbon for vanilla in cookies and cakes. It’s also lovely in frosting and whipped cream.

Infuse bourbon with vanilla, cinnamon, star anise, cardamom or dried fruits to bring another layer of complex flavor to recipes and drinks.

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stuff to do:

OCTOBER

BY OLIVIA DANSKY AND ISABELLA ESPINOZA

O’Fallon Brewery Pumpkin Fest Oct. 8 – 1 to 5 p.m., O’Fallon Brewery, 45 Progress Parkway, Maryland Heights, 636.474.2337, ofallonbrewery.com O’Fallon brewed a whole patch of new pumpkin beers just in time for Pumpkin Fest. In addition to its classic pumpkin beer and Imperial Pumpkin, O’Fallon serves rifts including apple cinnamon, peach, vanilla and coffee cream stout varieties. This family-friendly event features a pumpkin pie-eating contest, kids’ activities and live music. Tickets available online or at the door.

Belleville Chili Cook-Off Oct. 7 and 8 – 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., downtown Belleville, 618.233.2015, bellevillechili.com Whether you’re a chili connoisseur or just a fan of competition, head to Belleville for its annual Chili Cook-Off. More than 60 participants from community organizations to restaurants like Beast Craft BBQ, Righteous Pig BBQ and Tavern on Main dish up samples of signature chilis. While the judges debate the winner, enjoy live music, beer and a stroll around downtown.

The Farmer and The Chef Dinners Oct. 11 and 25 – 6:30 p.m., Farm to You Market, 5025 Old Highway 100, Washington, 844.682.2266, farmtoyoumarket.com Some of St. Louis’ top chefs head west

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to prepare a five-course meal inspired by the local produce at Farm to You Market.

Vista Ramen’s Chris Bork arrives Oct. 11, and Mud House’s Tara Lansangan fires up the range Oct. 25. Each dinner includes beverage pairings. Call or email info@ farmtoyoumarket.com for reservations.

Harvest Festival Oct. 16 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Laumeier Sculpture Park, 12580 Rott Road, Sunset Hills, 314.772.8004, harvestfeststl.com Join Sauce Magazine at Laumeier Sculpture Park along with top local restaurants, breweries and wineries for the 10th annual Harvest Festival. Sample food and drink from establishments like ClevelandHeath, Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Revel Kitchen, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Perennial Artisan Ales. While you snack, shop at the farmers market and local art fair and enjoy live bluegrass music on the KDHX stage.

Taste of Green Oct. 26 – 6 to 9 p.m., Willow, 321 N. 10th St., St. Louis, 314.282.7533, stlouisearthday.org Learn and taste what it takes for restaurants to operate in an environmentally sustainable way when St. Louis Earth Day hosts Taste of Green. Enjoy barbecue from Salt & Smoke, burgers and fries from The Dam, vegetarian fare from Small Batch and more from 15 Green Dining Alliance-certified restaurants and breweries.

Proceeds benefit St. Louis Earth Day’s Recycling on the Go and Green Dining Alliance programs. Tickets available online. denotes a sauce sponsored event October 2016

St. Louis Brewers Guild Halloween Party Oct. 29 – 1 to 5 p.m., Lafayette Park, 2023 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, stlbg.com/halloween Kick off Halloween festivities with an afternoon of local beer. More than 30 members of the St. Louis Brewers Guild including 4204 Main Street Brewing Co., Old Bakery Beer and Earthbound Beer pour their favorite seasonal offerings. Jump aboard the Hefe Ride (a keg-laden hay ride), grab a bite from local food trucks and dress in your wildest costume for a chance to win prizes. Tickets available online.

sponsored events Food Truck Friday Oct. 7 – 3 to 7 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Don’t miss the final Food Truck Friday of 2016. Enjoy fall weather in Tower Grove Park and dig into food from dozens of your favorite trucks like Frankly Sausages, Seoul Taco and Angie Burger. Sip on beer from 4 Hands and Urban Chestnut, wine from The Porch Wine & Gift Boutique and enjoy live music from Western Satellites.

We start one hour earlier to enjoy as much sunshine as possible.

Just Five: From Sauce Magazine Oct. 7 – 7 to 9 p.m, Dierbergs, 1080 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0400, dierbergs.com/school Join Sauce contributing writer Dee Ryan, who regularly pens Make This, for her cooking classes based on her online column, Just Five. Learn to make mouthwatering dishes like steak with compound butter, October 2016

tortellini with brown butter, pimento cheese crackers and more, all with just five key ingredients in each recipe. Seating is limited; reserve your spot online.

Pour & Pair Oct. 15 – 2 to 6 p.m., Euclid Avenue between Forest Park Parkway and Lindell Boulevard, St. Louis, euclidsouthcid.org/pour-pair More than a dozen businesses in the Central West End are dishing up the goods for the first Pour & Pair. Stroll through the neighborhood and enjoy a bite and a drink from establishments like BBQ Saloon, Brasserie, Racanelli’s Pizza and iTap. Enjoy art, live music and more. Tickets available online.

Make This: From Sauce Magazine Oct. 17 – 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Dierbergs, 1080 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0400, dierbergs.com/school Join Sauce contributing writer Dee Ryan for a cooking class based on her monthly column, Make This. Learn to make delicious dishes in a snap, like sweet potato soup with ham, pork with dates, carrot and orange salad with harissa and more.

OFS Corks for a Cause Through Dec. 31, participating restaurants and retailers, operationfoodsearch.org Drink to do good during Corks for a Cause, benefiting Operation Food Search.

Purchase a glass of “OFS Wine” at a participating restaurant or retailer and a portion of the wine sale benefits OFS. A full list of participating restaurants and retailers is available online.

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Enjoy the last fruits of the harvest at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. Pick up apples from Ringhausen Orchards, pumpkins and squash from Our Garden and grab lunch on your way out from Farmtruk food truck. Get there early to enjoy free yoga and qi gong classes before the crowds descend. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49

Marie-Anne Velasco

After more than 15 years in Chicago fine dining and the kitchens at The RitzCarlton and The Chase Park Plaza, Marie-Anne Velasco will open Nudo House with Mai Lee’s Qui Tran this fall. So how does a former Canadian Culinary Olympian wind up launching a ramen shop with St. Louis’ king of pho? A shared passion for noodle perfection.

Here, Velasco shares her formative ramen experiences, her hippie ways and why Nudo must have a soft serve machine.

– Catherine Klene

St. Louis, then and now “It’s a totally different food city. I used to live on that block between the old Niche and Sidney Street. We used to see Kevin (Nashan) all the time or we’d go to Niche for drinks before we had kids. I would just sit there and think, ‘Wow, if only these places were open (everywhere in St. Louis).’ …

From five years ago to now, it’s exploded.”

Free spirits of Chesterfield “(My husband and I) are kind of closet hippies at home. We grow our own vegetables; we make our own kombucha; we make our own yogurt. We try to make and grow everything that we can.”

Aha moment “It was just this unctuous, thick – it didn’t even feel like broth but everyone was calling it broth, and the noodles were chewy and the

egg was custardy. Everything was just a perfect scenario of a food experience. It’s weird when you have that first experience. You just try and chase it.”

Ramen Revolution “Ippudo (a New York City ramen restaurant) reset my brain, too. After working in all these different ramen places and getting to know the ingredients and the bones and what the procedures are, we sat down at this place and I went, ‘Wait a minute – I don’t know how they did this.’”

Screaming for ice cream “I’m so excited about it!

When you’re in Little Tokyo in Los Angeles after you go and have ramen, you have to go and have soft serve because it isn’t just soft serve. It’s like green tea, it’s like mango, it’s like coconut – all the things you think go hand in hand with Japanese flavors. That salty richness needs a balance between citrus and something sweet.”

Hungry business partners “(Qui and I) are very meticulous about what we want and how we want it done. At the same time we both have an open mindset.

We’re both easygoing, but at the same time, we want it done properly. ... And we both have appetites that are never-ending. It’s almost embarrassing.”

Nudo House 11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Facebook: Nudo House STL

from left, joaquin, hudson and their mother, marieanne velasco

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PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

WHAT I DO

October 2016

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October 2016

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