the sanDwIch renaIssanCe from casual to fine dining, chefs turn to the sandwich for a way forward
the smashed brat burger at shift, p. 18
October 2020 SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M //saucemagazine.com F R E E , O C TOI B E R 2020
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OCTOBER 2020 • VOLUME 20, ISSUE 8 How do you like your steak?
Allyson Mace On a *sizzling* Meera Nagarajan fajita platter. Heather Hughes Huff Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Adam Rothbarth Lauren Healey Filet mignon – medium-rare. Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Virginia Harold, Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Adam Rothbarth, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Through the Volansky hearts of my CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes Huff, enemies. Meera Nagarajan, Adam Rothbarth, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Micah Barnes, Eva France, Blakely Gibeaut, Riley Mack, Greta Nagy Any cut, very rare, PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR EDITOR-AT-LARGE MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
with red wine.
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contents O C TO B ER 2 02 0
editors' picks
features
COVER DETAILS THE SANDWICH RENAISSANCE
THE SANDWICH RENAISSANCE
From casual to fine dining, chefs turn to the sandwich for a way forward
In the face of a pandemic, chefs like Logan Ely at Shift have turned to sandwiches in their search for a way forward. Head to p. 18 for a deeper look at some of the incredible dishes they've produced.
by adam rothbarth
by adam rothbarth
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
10 HIT LIST
32
9 EAT THIS Pad nam prik pao at Thai Nivas Cafe
18
THE BIG PICTURE
10 new places to try this month
How YouTube helped chef Brian
by lauren healey, meera nagarajan, adam rothbarth and liz wolfson
Lagerstrom reclaim the kitchen
15 BOBA 3.0 by michelle volansky 16 FIXATIONS
by heather hughes huff
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
The 8 things on the top of our shopping list right now
by lauren healey, meera nagarajan, adam rothbarth and liz wolfson
breakfast sandwiches at juniper,
p. 18
last bite 40 WHAT I DO Angela Zeng, CEO of Karuna
by lauren healey 42 LANDMARK Kreis' Steakhouse & Bar
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by liz wolfson
October 2020
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Eat This
Getting through the pad nam prik pao (called “spicy stir fry” on the menu) at Thai Nivas Cafe is a fiery fantasia of Thai chili, sweat and, in some cases, tears – especially if you order it at a level 5 like we do. Aromatic basil swims alongside perfectly cooked peppers, onions, carrots and a protein (we prefer the superb tofu). Pro tip: Tack on an order of basil fried rice. If you’re going hard in the spice zone, you might need more than the stir fry’s side of white rice.
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
Thai Nivas Cafe 11054 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.567.8989, thainivassushibar.com
October 2020
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10 new places to try this month
PHOTO COURTESY OF WING DING DONG
hit list
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clockwise from top: dancing prawns at aubergine cafe, the dining room at aubergine cafe, chargrilled aubergine at aubergine cafe, the patio at hangar kitchen + bar
AUBERGINE CAFE Downtown’s Aubergine Cafe offers light and flavorful takes on regional Thai cuisine, along with dishes that blend Thai and Euro-American ingredients like the Thai-Bolognese. Mushroom lovers must try the mixed mushroom and basil, which does not skimp on the basil and comes topped with a sunny side up egg with a delightfully runny yolk. We also loved the colorful Tum Yum Fried Rice’s refreshing notes of lemongrass and galangal, a Thai ginger; and the perfectly tender chargrilled aubergine, garnished with mint and cilantro, does justice to the restaurant’s name.
We’re suckers for fried chicken, and the offerings at this unique Korean takeout and delivery restaurant are no exception. We loved the perfectly crispy chicken gangjung with the restaurant’s namesake fire sauce featuring jalapeno, garlic, scallion, sweet soy sauce and sesame seeds. You can also get the chicken gangjung with teriyaki or a spicysweet gochujang sauce. The savory mandu, deep-fried Korean pork dumplings, were also a hit.
Hangar Kitchen + Bar, located in the former home of Slider House, turns out excellent dishes and drinks at reasonable prices. The refreshing, dessert-like Singapore Slush blends citrus and tropical fruits with brandy and seltzer. (Save a few sips to finish your meal). The roasted beets salad is subtly sweet, its strawberries, honeyinfused Greek yogurt and balsamic reduction balanced by arugula, pickled red onion and toasted quinoa. The delightful That’s My Jam sliders are made with 2.5-ounce tri-blend beef, house-made tomato jam, aged white cheddar, garlic mayo, pickle and perfectly crispy onions. And the short rib tacos, which come three per order, feature a rich adobo sauce, bright avocado-lime crema, cotija cheese, citrus-cream slaw, pickled jalapeno and fried avocado in a lightly charred flour tortilla. Dishes are meant to be shared and are brought out as they’re ready, so there’s never a dull moment.
10200 Page Ave., Overland, 314.551.2123, Facebook: FireChicken Page
9528 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.473.1221, hangarkitchenandbarstl.com
550 N. Seventh St., St. Louis, 314.241.9990, auberginecafe.com
AUBERGINE CAFE PHOTOS BY ADAM ROTHBARTH; HANGAR KITCHEN + BAR PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY
HANGAR KITCHEN + BAR
FIRE CHICKEN
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HIT LIST p. 3 of 4
WING DING DONG The newest concept from Baileys’ Restaurants, Wing Ding Dong is a ghost kitchen operating out of the downtown Bailey’s Range. It’s an excellent addition to St. Louis’ rapidly growing list of carryout chicken options. The tender smoked wings have an awesome juiciness, especially coming from a togo box, and can be dipped with your choice of sauces, including Alabama white, Buffalo, ranch and Carolina mustard. The spicy chicken sandwich brings powerful heat cooled by tasty house-made mayo, with house pickles and lettuce on a beer bun. Creamy mac and cheese and perfectly fried tater tots make for a strong supporting cast.
CHILLAX TAP & CO. This sleek, new beer bar and bottle shop in Wentzville offers a huge selection of rotating drafts. Chillax features exciting domestics from Two Pitchers Brewing Co. and Prairie Artisan Ales, as well as cool local breweries like Rockwell Beer Co. With 30 great beers on tap, you should plan to stay a while. The bar encourages guests to bring in takeout or get food delivered, so camping out inside or on the patio should be easy.
714 W. Pearce Blvd., Wentzville, 636.887.0387, chillaxstl.com
920 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.241.8121, wingdingdong.com
top: chillax’s owners, archie and ashley harmon; bottom: lemon meringue tart at made. by lia
VEGAN DELI & BUTCHER
524 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.757.3349, vegandeliandbutcher.com
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MADE. BY LIA Old Town Florissant’s Made. by Lia is a fantastic addition to St. Louis’ sweettreat scene. The chocolate chip banana bread and chocolate chip cookies are both perfectly moist and feature high quality chocolate. The vegan carrot doughnut, drizzled with sugar glaze, is a delicious mashup of a cake donut and a carrot Bundt cake. Two-layer mini cakes, filled with some the fluffiest buttercream we’ve encountered, come in a variety of rotating flavors like the colorful funfetti and devil’s-food-like chocolate mini cake, which features a tender crumb and intense chocolate flavor.
610 Rue St. Francois, Florissant, 314.551.2383, madebylia.com October 2020
CHILLAX PHOTO BY ADAM ROTHBARTH; MADE. BY LIA PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY
Hot off his stint as executive chef of Benton Park vegan haven Utah Station, Chris Bertke set out on his own this year. His new vegan shop in St. Charles offers hot and cold sandwiches, classic deli sides, from potato salad to mac and cheese, and fresh java from Peace Love Coffee, which shares the same space. We loved the substantive meatball sub, made with well-seasoned soy-based meatballs, marinara and vegan Parmesan cheese on a toasted hoagie, and the refreshing housemade, plant-based turkey club on toasted wheatberry bread. For more on Vegan Deli and Butcher, see our sandwich story on p. 18.
MOTOR TOWN PIZZA
LOVE AT FIRST BITE
LOVE AT FIRST BITE PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; BIJOUX PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY
St. Ann’s Love at First Bite offers comfort food to go, including an entire menu of loaded fries. The Lobster On My Spuds features a Grand Marnier cheese sauce and lobster tail meat poached in white wine and butter. Vegetarian and vegan diners will find many meat-free options alongside barbecue plates and sandwiches, including a vegan St. Paul sandwich and hot wing-style cauliflower bites.
10479 St. Charles Rock Road, St. Ann, 314.695.5440, loveatfirstbitestl.com
clockwise from top: from left, lobster on my spuds, vegan buffalo cauliflower bites and caesar salad with cajun shrimp at love at first bite; truffles at bijoux; made with love's bottled sweet tea and lemonade at love at first bite; love at first bite co-owners monica hodges and jason lamont, who is also the restaurant's executive chef
Motor Town Pizza is one of the latest ghost kitchens to open in St. Louis and is available for curbside pickup or delivery. Simon and Angelica Lusky of Revel Kitchen started the Detroit-style pizza shop inside Revel’s Brentwood location. The dough is airy and soft, kind of like a focaccia, with an edge-to-edge blanket of cheese, which formed an irresistible crispy, bronze border. Choose from six signature pizzas or build your own. We tried the spicysweet El Dorado with Chihuahua cheese, jalapeno, pineapple and locally made Hungry Planet plantbased chorizo. The Model P was a classic pepperoni with the added hit of crispy garlic. The kale mobile salad, with garlic aioli, lemon juice, red pepper flakes and romano cheese, was fresh and craveable with vegetarian Caesar salad vibes.
8388 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.514.5392, motortownpizza.appfront.ai
BIJOUX The hand-painted chocolate bonbons at Bijoux, which made its name vending at the Lake St. Louis Farmers & Artists Market, may look too pretty to eat (“bijoux” is French for jewels), but the decadent, high-quality chocolate will keep you reaching for more. Flavors rotate, but we loved the roasted nut-caramel bonbon with pistachios, almonds, walnuts and pecans and the lemon-rhubarb bonbon with lemon caramel and white chocolate-rhubarb filling. Don’t miss out on non-bonbon treats like the honeycomb toffee or the salted nutty toffee.
13014 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.307.7303, bijouxchocolates.com October 2020
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BOBA 3.0 BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Boba tea, sometimes known as bubble tea, has come a long way since its Midwestern debut in the late 1990s. Depending on your age, you may have memories of waiting in line for a bright purple brew of this trendy Taiwanese export at Crestwood Mall (rest in power) or in the Loop. Today’s teens are likely more familiar with decadent Instagram-famous cups, their light, milky tea and dark, syrupy brown sugar swirling like lava lamps. For several years, boba tea has been experiencing what some have likened to the third wave coffee movement, which pioneered artisanal approaches to coffee preparation and production. Led by first- and secondgeneration Asian Americans seeking to reinvent this comforting, nostalgic cultural touchstone, tea shops are increasingly popping up that focus on organic ingredients, ethical sourcing and using real leaf teas rather than powdered versions. Here are three local spots making boba that will blow your mind.
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Cube Tea Studio
The sprawling menu at this gem tucked inside Olive Supermarket reads like a bulleted list of the latest trends: seasonal fruit and yogurt teas, salted cream cheese foam toppings, and multiple tea options that range from oolong to jasmine. Mix and match seemingly endless combinations and choose your sweetness level from 0-100%. We recommend ordering a “toasted brown sugar cheese milk tea with boba” at 50% sweetness. The salted cheese layer provides rich creaminess and the toasted sugar topping adds a satisfying crunch and warm, smoky flavor. 8041 Olive Blvd., University City, cubebubbleteastudio.com October 2020
La Patisserie Chouquette
While South and Southeast Asian treats like boba and flavors like matcha and black sesame make frequent appearances on Chouqette’s menu, it’s the freshly brewed milk tea that keeps us coming back. The offerings are simple: green or black tea with brown sugar, matcha or taro, blended with whole or oat milk, with the additional option to “make it fancy!” Go ahead and get extra with add-ins like caramel, yuzu jam, lychee-coconut jelly or a trendy dalgona topping, a creamy foam made by whipping together instant coffee, sugar and hot water. 1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com
The Foundry Bakery
This Taiwanese bakery located in a Maryland Heights strip mall epitomizes the #fightthepowder movement in milk tea. Don’t be fooled by the low-key setting: The fresh pastries and curated list of global teas brewed inhouse daily will meet the most exacting standards. Add chewy boba soaked in wildflower honey to roasted houjicha green tea or Taiwanese fruit milk made with seasonal fruit blended with ice and house caramel milk. Don’t forget to pick up a crispy orange bun on your way out; like all of their pastries, they’re baked throughout the day for maximum freshness. 11424 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, 314.884.1116, thefoundrybakery.com
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Fixations This month we’re all about creamy dairy treats, savory seasonings and fizzy beverages of all kinds.
A’ Siciliana Limonata The A’ Siciliana Limonata, a wonderfully tart Italian soda made with fresh Sicilian lemons, is the perfect beverage … to pour a bunch of vermouth into and drink on the rocks. If you’re not into aperitif hour, this drink is also delicious on its own. 11.5-ounce can: $4. Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, eatpastaria.com
Beauti-Juice You no longer have to stop by the local juice bar for your fresh-pressed fix, because the new, St. Charles-based Beauti-Juice ships to all 50 states. Order anywhere from a single bottle to a multiday program of flavors like Hey Gorgeous, which includes beet, green apple, orange and ginger juices. Prices vary. 314.478.8222, beauti-juice.com
Oo’mämē chile infusions We’ve been loving the Oo’mämē Chinese chile crisp on everything from roasted sweet potatoes to salads to stir fry. With ingredients like fermented black bean, crystallized ginger and Sichuan peppercorns, this spicy condiment brings a broad, deep flavor to anything you put it on. $16.50. AO&Co. Market & Cafe, 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, Facebook: AO&Co. Market & Cafe; oomame.net
Kobal “Bajta” Pet Nat We’re declaring the Kobal Bajta Pet Nat our favorite bottle from quarantine. The lively sparkler tastes like one part champagne and one part lemonade and pairs beautifully with everything from pizza to grilled fish and fresh fruits. $20. Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery, 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
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Bold Spoon Creamery Launched in May, this ice cream made with local Rolling Lawns Farm cream has made these uncertain times decidedly more cheerful. We loved the lemon curd ice cream, which was dense and smooth with a kiss of citrus. The fact that you can get it delivered makes it taste even better. 1 pint: $10. boldspooncreamery.com
YoBul! Plain Whole Milk Bulgarian Yogurt This locally produced, Bulgarian-style yogurt is absolutely creamy with just a hint of tang. Its fabulous texture and subtle flavor are sure to give your breakfast parfait routine a new lease on life. 24 ounces: $4.50. Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com
Passion Fruit & Citra Hops Urban Seltzer With its tart, fruity-floral notes, Urban Chestnut’s take on this hottest of canned beverages is the first we’ve tried that doesn’t make us sad we’re not just drinking either beer or carbonated water. Fourpack: $7. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com
Datu Puti White Vinegar Spiced Sukang Maasim This Filipino pantry staple has infiltrated our home cooking in a serious way, adding an incredible kick to our marinades, salad dressings and stir frys. Infused with onion, hot pepper and garlic, this spiced vinegar is a surefire way to brighten a dish while adding funky depth. $3. Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.2552, Facebook: Jay International Foods October 2020
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by Adam Rotthbarth
Legend traces the modern sandwich’s history to an 18th century British nobleman who habitually ate pieces of beef between slices of bread while playing epically long card games. His name was John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich. Though this story could be a myth, there’s a meaningful parable to be found in it: The sandwich was a dish born of necessity. Now, as a pandemic plunges the restaurant industry into the unknown, a similar type of necessity has emerged, especially for concepts whose normal modes of service, from elegant tasting menus to hot-offthe-grill proteins and veggies, are temporarily halted. Fortunately, there’s almost nothing more primal, more functional and more satisfying than a sandwich. PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
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has featured a foot-long chicken wiener with sorrel, a French onion melt with yeast fondue (a play on Ely’s beloved onion dish), and an Italian sausage with shaved peppers, pickled kale and tomato jam. The towering smashed brat burger, complete with a massive tater tot patty inside, was an inventive amalgamation of treasured summer dishes.
Faced with the existential crisis that came with the closure of their dining room, he and his team searched for a new way forward. “We started with barbecue stuff, some local meats, through a barbecue pit that’s on our patio. We did that for a month or so, but thought, ‘Maybe that’s too expensive and not accommodating people who want a quick bite or are buying food for themselves.’” So Shift forged a new, more accessible program in July, premiering an extended pop-up called Shift Sausages & Sandwiches. “Sandwiches seemed like a fun thing to do,” he said. “We make all the bread, all the sauces, all the patties. It’s an easier and better way.” The rotating menu
As changing city guidelines and skyrocketing COVID-19 numbers dictate how and when restaurants can operate, some chefs have found that sandwiches are a perfect solution to the unstable nature of the industry today; the flip side, however, is there’s no way to ensure the longevity of any menu or dish in this environment. For example, Ely’s second restaurant, The Lucky Accomplice, opened at the end of September, at which point he put Shift on hiatus – not his original plan but one that made sense in light of how the latter evolved this year. Thus, there’s a good chance you may never be able to taste the sandwich on the cover of this issue, unless it’s served at his new spot.
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Many of the new sandwiches we’re seeing aren’t ends in themselves but brainstorming sessions, wild gambits meant to help these restaurants keep things running while considering new ways forward. Though temporary in some cases, together the excellent dishes discussed in the following paragraphs provide a snapshot of a deeply precarious moment for local dining. Regardless of what happens with the pandemic, we will look back at this sandwich renaissance as a pivotal moment for the restaurant scene – one that was ultimately about more than sandwiches.
SINCE OPENING IN JANUARY of last year, Elmwood has received accolades for its bold flavors and confident use of indoor grilling, showcased in dishes like charred sweet potato baba ghanoush, mafalda with grilled vegetable Bolognese, and Bangs Island mussels with Sichuan spice. After closing its dining room in response to COVID-19, it developed a great carryout pizza pop-up that included a killer
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
“IN MARCH, WE CLOSED, and we had no interest in doing curbside or to-go, but obviously there’s not really an end in sight right now,” said Logan Ely, the mastermind behind Shift, a New American restaurant known for tasting courses like asparagus with creamy egg yolk in celery root-mussel foam and a widely acclaimed preserved onion with yeast mousse.
October 2020
previous page: smashed bratwurst on a potato bun at shift; opposite page: crispy chicken thigh sandwich at perennial on lockwood; this page: the 10-inch hoagie at elmwood
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eat sandWiches From theSe places Elmwood 2704 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.261.4708, elmwoodstl.com Juniper 4101 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com Little Fox 2800 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com Nomad 1221 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2360, nomadstl.square.site Pastaria Deli and Wine 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, eatpastaria.com Perennial on Lockwood 216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, Facebook: Perennial on Lockwood Shift Restaurant 2655 Ann Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.8488, shiftstlouis.com The Banh Mi Shop 567 Melville Ave., University City, 314.390.2836, thebanhmishopstl.com Vegan Deli and Butcher 524 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.757.3349, vegandeliandbutcher.com
hoagie, one bite of which evoked all that is extraordinary about the Maplewood restaurant’s regular menu. A first-rate use of spice and acid – super-punchy vinegar and jalapenos – gave the sandwich edge, while its combo of tasty meats (mortadella, capocollo and Genoa salami) lent it citizenry to the realm of authentic hoagies. Crusty, perfectly baked bread provided an immersive, gratifying bite. At Elmwood 2.0, we went for the pizza but stayed for the hoagie. Little Fox opened in December with a sharp cocktail menu, an impossibly smart wine list and a battalion of inventive dishes that highlighted chef and co-owner Craig Rivard’s sophisticated mingling of delicate flavors. Now, after a full menu overhaul and the addition of a large, outdoor dining space, dishes like onion soup with bone marrow and a tomahawk pork chop Milanese have given way to a grilled mahi mahi sandwich that’s helping bridge the gap. “We just had to take takeout into consideration,” said Rivard. “Our previous menu didn’t translate to carryout very well. That was one of the thought processes going into this menu – just sort of taking [in] some of those summer vibes.” Served on an airy Martin’s potato roll with creamy fennel-cabbage slaw and spicy pickles, this subtly brilliant sandwich bears as much of Rivard’s signature style as anything he’s created. And the restaurant’s not stopping there – Little Fox also recently launched a brunch service that sees an egg sandwich and a slow-roasted pork sandwich sitting alongside other elevated brunch items like smoked trout hash, fried green tomato eggs Benedict, and a liptauer (spicy cheese) spread. “For me, brunch has always been an egg sandwich,” Rivard said. But as with many of these new ideas, there’s no way to know how long it’ll be around. “Weather’s going to be a little bit of a determinant on how long we’ll be doing brunch,” he explained. “As long as people want to sit outside, we’ll be trying to continue it.”
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F O R O T H E R R E S T A U R A NTS, S A N D W I C H E S H A V E N ’ T BEEN M E R E A D D I T I O N S , but have spearheaded entire new menus. At Southern-inspired Juniper, whose dining room is closed for the foreseeable future, weekend biscuit sandwich pop-ups have joined an already strong carryout menu, providing a cool new option for the brunch crowd. While many restaurants try making fast food clones, most fail, underestimating just how much development and science go into making commercial food successful. Not Juniper, where a menu composed of just two biscuit sandwiches, hash browns and beverages (coffee, juices and standard brunch cocktails) not only evokes but improves upon everything that makes popular on-the-go breakfasts what they are. The sausage, egg and cheese biscuit is balanced, pitting a flaky, not-toobuttery biscuit against aromatic breakfast meat; the fried chicken scrapple biscuit has a similarly buoyant feel and has a nice, mild spiciness. These sandwiches have been a perfect addition to the restaurant’s lauded, fried-chicken-forward menu. While COVID-19 is presenting newly launched restaurants with uniquely trying circumstances, new delis and shops that feature standout sandwiches appear to be not only surviving but thriving. Perennial on Lockwood, a collaboration between Perennial Artisan Ales and Olive + Oak, opened in July and came out of the gate with an absolutely insane Sichuan peppercorntinged chicken thigh sandwich. Sandwich shops Nomad and The Banh Mi Shop, which opened in February and March respectively, both offer smart, dynamic menus full of classics as well as boundary-pushing specials like Nomad’s head cheese banh mi and a smoked portobello “burger” with onion marmalade and brie. Similarly, in late June, as the pandemic was ramping up, chef Chris Bertke was in the process of leaving
Benton Park’s Utah Station to start Vegan Deli and Butcher, a spot of his own in St. Charles. What he came up with was perfect for today’s dining culture: a cafe centered around freshly made, accessible sandwiches and sides that travel well. The soy-based meatball sub on a toasted hoagie is a hearty, fulfilling beast, but Bertke’s unassuming turkey club steals the show. In other cases, untimely farewells have yielded exciting new beginnings. For the past five years, Sardella had been one of St. Louis’ coolest and weirdest restaurants. Serving unique iterations of regional Italian and world cuisine like hamachi crudo, black trumpet scarpinocc, foie gras torchon and ‘nduja french toast, it almost played like an experimental kitchen, especially compared to neighbor Pastaria’s broad menu of satisfying Italian classics. But when the pandemic forced Sardella to close its small dining room earlier this year, co-owner Gerard Craft transformed the space into a new concept more suited to the current state of dining. Enter Pastaria Deli and Wine, a sandwich carryout pop-up (and soon-to-be actual restaurant) that found its stride in salami, caprese and meatball sandwiches – all served on Union Loafers Cafe and Bakery hoagie rolls – as well as its great wine selection and pragmatic menu of sides and extras (house-made giardiniera!). Sardella may be gone for now, but Pastaria Deli and Wine is likely here to stay. In all of these sandwiches, whether solid updates on classics or dazzling inventions, we see chefs thinking on their toes and finding new ways to engage diners. And while some of these sandwiches may be around for years, others will surely be gone by the time you read this. Of course, as wonderful as these new dishes are, we should not take for granted the true forces behind the sandwich renaissance: a city that loves great food and a restaurant industry that continues to deliver.
October 2020
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
breakfast sausage, egg and cheese biscuit sandwich at j u n i pe r
sonGbird You already love the Kitchen Kulture breakfast sandwich. Soon, you’ll be able to get it at Songbird, the new cafe from the sandwich’s creators. Instagram: @songbird.stl
October 2020
Coming soon
IzuMi A new pop-up operating at Chao Baan and various other locations, Izumi promises to have Japanese sandos and more starting sometime this month. Instagram: @izumistlouis
sando Shack Another Japanese sandwich concept, Sando Shack has been posting pictures of a sweet-and-spicy chicken sandwich as well as beef and chicken katsu sandwiches. Instagram: @sandoshackstl
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
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October 2020
PARTNER CONTENT
Catering
in the time of
COVID COMPILED BY LAUREN HEALEY
J
ust because there’s a pandemic underway doesn’t mean the party has to stop – it just needs to happen in a safe manner. These St. Louis area caterers are working around the clock to ensure your next event keeps your guests full and happy while staying safe and sanitized.
CHAMPIONSHIP CATERING This five-star wedding and event caterer serves top performers at Hollywood Casino Amphitheatre, corporations, private parties and all of St. Louis’ best wedding venues. With 36 years experience, chef-owner Larry G. is a master menu planner, catering to nearly any dietary restriction or desire. Dreaming up your next event? The trendsetting New Day Catering™ keeps your guests happy, safe and healthy. Talented chefs create made-to-order meals including omelets, authentic pastas, mouthwatering salads, chicken bruschetta and prime tenderloin with signature dark and white horseradish sauce. Championship Catering was named a Top 25 Caterer in St. Louis by the St. Louis Business Journal and has won numerous other awards. 2249 Woodson Road, St. Louis, 314.606.9520, October May 2019 2020
championshipcatering.com
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PARTNER CONTENT
ANTHONINO’S TAVERNA Let Anthonino’s make your next party, meeting or reception perfect with its extensive menus of Italian, Greek and American specialties to cover your guests’
either side of the river. Email catering@beastcraftbbq.com for more information. 618.973.5285 beastcraftbbq.com, beastbbqstl.com
needs. From finger foods and the award-
DALIE’S SMOKEHOUSE Dalie’s is more than just a smokehouse. Think of the catering staff as your personal menu planner and extension of your event team. Known for its responsiveness, attention to detail and enthusiasm for your event, Dalie’s
old and furnished with family antiques) on the property to house your guests. Choose from one of the preferred caterers – Sugarfire Smoke House, Bow Tie Catering, 12 West Bar and Grill, and Black Bird Café – or bring in your own caterer. Check out the website for more information on
winning, house-made toasted ravioli and
CYRANO’S CAFÉ
takes the menu planning off your plate. They
spanakopita to a full-service dinner with
The private room at Cyrano’s is a
specialize in private parties, corporate events
fresh lamb, fish and beef, Anthonino’s will
beautiful, unique space for your next
and meetings, weddings, rehearsal dinners
please even the pickiest eaters. For more
private event. With its bright colors
and showers, and are pandemic-compliant.
information on catering, email
and eclectic interior design, it offers
Choose from a standard list of smoked
meegan@anthoninos.com.
something you can’t find in traditional
meats, including beef pastrami, tri-tip sirloin
2225 Macklind Ave., 314.773.4455
banquet rooms. They can accommodate
and vegan jackfruit, along with sides like pit
up to 50 people for a sit-down dinner and
baked beans and mac and cheese. Email
GOURMET SOUL RESTAURANT AND CATERING
up to 70 people for a cocktail-style event.
catering@pappyssmokehouse.com for
With over five years of experience, Gourmet Soul Restaurant and Catering, prioritizes the success of your event and
ext. 5, St. Louis, anthoninos.com
BEAST CRAFT BBQ CO.
hosting your next birthday party, wedding, corporate event or any other type of party you can devise. 10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com
(Ever-changing COVID regulations may
more information.
Barbecue catering from BEAST Craft BBQ
alter this, so ask when inquiring about
2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, St. Louis,
Co. and BEAST Butcher & Block is widely
catering.) Cyrano’s offers a flexible menu
considered the best in the region, from
based on the full restaurant menu starting
the customer service to the final product.
at only $12 for lunch and $18 for dinner.
EDG-CLIF VINEYARD, WINERY, BREWERY
It’s not just something they do – they’ve
And don't forget the house-made, award-
Host your next event of 50 to 250 people
goal is to combine creativity, passion and
mastered it with nationally recognized,
winning desserts. Located in beautiful
at this third-generation, family-owned farm,
professionalism in everything they do. They
award-winning barbecue and a dedicated
Webster Groves, Cyrano’s is centrally
which boasts an array of award-winning
specialize in making your vision a reality
catering team. They specialize in carefully
located and close to major highways. For
vinos along with a farmhouse brewery and
and concentrate on serving the customer’s
sourced heritage breeds simply prepared
more information, email
plenty of craft beers. The spacious, open-
needs, whatever they may be. Let Gourmet
to showcase the quality of the animal.
events.cyranos@yahoo.com.
air pavilion overlooks acres upon acres of
Soul host your next event.
From boxed lunches to weddings, the two
603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves,
vineyards and gardens, and there are three
1620 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis,
locations allow them to deliver anywhere on
314.963.3434, cyranos.com
renovated farmhouses (all over 100 years
314.339.5658, gourmetsoul.com
426I SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI saucemagazine.com I saucemagazine.com
314.243.8740, daliessmokehouse.com
has earned its COVID-19 serve-safe certification. With homestyle, house-made food and fully customizable menus, their
May 2020 2019 October
October 2020
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
PARTNER CONTENT
KALEIDOSCOPE CRAFT BREW COFFEE Kaleidoscope is a coffee roastery, brewery and mobile coffee bar. Their mobile catering services offer handcrafted cold and hot coffee offerings, ice cream coffee floats, affogatos, and other non-coffee craft beverages. They serve from two vintage trucks perfect for photo ops, a ’52 Chevy pickup and a ’64 Corvair van. Both vehicles are customized to serve draft coffee and other beverages from taps on the vehicles. Is your event inside? They have a mobile bar for serving inside too! Their coffee products can be found at a growing list of retailers
assortment of the most popular appetizers
Block Party, where they can deliver dinner
has been helping St. Louis celebrate with
and can be made for any size group. And
for your entire neighborhood.
delicious food and outstanding service for
whole tres leches cakes are a great addition
3811 S. Lindbergh Blvd.,
over 52 years. Specializing in trendsetting,
to any holiday menu. Choose from packaged
Sunset Hills, 314.681.6772,
customized menus and creative presentation,
meals with meats and sides and add-on
stlouis_mo@mellowcatering.com
they offer everything from drop-off party
priced by the pan or piece; or boxed lunches and bowls. All catering menus available for pickup or delivery. Full-service catering is available for groups of 50 or more. When calling, ask for Mandy Estrella. 2001 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2699, plantaingirl.com
NARWHAL’S CRAFTED Narwhal’s, with locations in Midtown St. Louis and Streets of St. Charles, is well known for its unique, made-from-scratch frozen cocktails. But what not everyone may know is that Narwhal’s can also bring the party to you. Its friendly, knowledgeable event team will set up at your location for parties, weddings
across Missouri and Illinois, and can be
MELLOW MUSHROOM
shipped nationwide. For more information,
With a large delivery radius, this locally
email drink@craftbrewcoffee.com or find
owned Mellow Mushroom serves events of
them on social @craftbrewcoffee.
all sizes all around the greater St. Louis area.
craftbrewcoffee.com
Options range from a breakfast menu and
MAYO KETCHUP
trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal
options for appetizers and desserts; a menu
box lunches with sandwiches, wraps, salads and more to stone-baked pizza buffets and
and corporate events. For outdoor events, there’s a one-of-a-kind, 24-foot food truck (nicknamed “Norbert Junior”) that can bring five flavors of frozen drinks plus three taps of
interactive chef stations. Orlando’s caters to private homes and offices, and is also a preferred caterer at over 30 unique venues, now including the Soulard Franklin Room. They offer all-inclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail. 2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com
delicious kegged cocktails to wherever you are. (Neighborhood block party, anyone?) For catering inquiries, email info@narwhalscrafted.com.
Accommodating groups from 20 to 200, Mayo
to-go cocktails, with plenty of gluten-free,
Ketchup specializes in traditional Puerto
vegan and vegetarian items, all in eco-
Rican and Cuban favorites, all made in-house.
friendly, recyclable packaging designed for
Pernil (roasted pork) with arroz con gandules
travel. Let them bring the food to you, or
(yellow rice with pigeon peas) is the national
rent space on the property like the amazing
holiday dish in Puerto Rico and is featured
beer garden and covered patio. Or check
ORLANDO BANQUETS AND CATERING
on all menus. The picadera sampler is an
out the new program called the Mellow
This family-owned and -operated business
I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI saucemagazine.com I saucemagazine.com 628I SAUCE
dining, butler-passed hors d’oeuvres and
3906 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8388; 1450 Beale St., No. 125, St. Charles, 636.395.7315, narwhalscrafted.com
PAPPY’S SMOKEHOUSE You love that award-winning Memphisstyle barbecue at Pappy’s, so imagine how your guests will feel. The Pappy’s catering team is known for its professionalism, responsiveness, attention to detail and COVID-19 compliance. Perfect for any event you can imagine in Pappy’s private banquet space, one of St. Louis’s top venues May 2020 2019 October
October 2020
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
PARTNER CONTENT
or any location you choose. There are boxed
barbecues to white-table, black-tie affairs.
lunches, full-service catering with or without
601 Stockell Drive, Eureka,
appetizers and whole hog packages available.
636.938.9742, supersmokers.com
Email catering@pappyssmokehouse.com for
THE GRAMOPHONE
more information. 3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.607.2446,
While The Gramophone specializes in
pappyssmokehouse.com
sandwiches galore, the catering side has quite a bit of variety, including hot boxes, pan
PICKLEMAN’S GOURMET CAFE
sides, feast packs and boxed lunches, which
Pickleman’s has won numerous awards for
can feed anywhere from 10 to 100 people.
its sandwiches, but the expanded catering
Pro tip: The mac and cheese is always a huge
options have made it the first choice for
hit. Delivery is available within a 5-mile radius
company catering across the St. Louis
of the Grove. Order online and schedule a
market. Pickleman’s offers delivery, pickup
date and time for pickup or delivery through
and curbside services and can provide
the Square store. Check the website for
individually packaged and labeled lunches
updated hours. Want contact-free delivery?
for any size group. Pickleman’s catering menu
Just ask when placing your order.
includes 10 sandwich boxes, box lunches,
4243 Manchester Ave., St. Louis,
bulk salads, bulk soups, pizza, cookies, chips,
314.531.5700, gramophonestl.com/catering
pickles and beverages. To browse the full
THE PASTA HOUSE CO.
menu, visit picklemans.com/catering.php. Multiple locations, picklemans.com
I S N ' T May 2019 30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Turn a nearly 50-year St. Louis tradition into a memorable experience by allowing The
D E A D
SUPER SMOKERS BBQ
Pasta House Co. to supply your catering
Super Smokers has catered in St. Louis for
needs. Check out the Parties To Go Menu
over 24 years, serving events as large as
available for pickup from one of the several
10,000 people and as far away as the White
locations that feeds smaller groups up to 50
House. Choose from typical barbecue fare
people and includes pans of pastas, salads,
like brisket, pork, chicken, turkey and even
and their Family Meals that start at $29.99
whole hogs, as well as off-menu items like
and feed a family of four. Online ordering
Cajun food, pasta con broccoli, appetizers
is available for curbside pickup or delivery.
and desserts. Want something different? They
Call the number below or email catering@
are happy to customize the menu to suit your
thepastahouse.com for more information.
needs. And with a food trailer, Super Smokers
Multiple locations, 314.644.1400,
caters to every type of event, from backyard
pastahouse.com
October saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9 2020
October 2020
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
THE BIG PICTURE
32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
October 2020
//
October 2020
How YouTube helped chef Brian Lagerstrom reclaim the kitchen by heather hughes huff
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33
“Oh! Yeah! It’s me! Your No. 1 taco boy.” Maybe this isn’t the way you’d expect a lauded chef to introduce an instructional video on how to produce the perfect barbacoa taco … but Brian Lagerstrom is no longer a typical chef. This scene comes from just one of dozens of videos posted on Weeds & Sardines, the rapidly growing YouTube channel he co-produces with his spouse Lauren Adermann. Weeds & Sardines has taken off faster than the couple could have anticipated; they passed the 1,000-subscriber mark just four months after posting their first video. Recently, Italian foods giant Barilla sent him a bunch of swag after he featured their pasta in an episode. Recognized as a 2015 Sauce Magazine One to Watch, Lagerstrom was sous chef at Niche when its co-owner and chef Gerard Craft won the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Midwest in the same year. Shortly thereafter, he left the restaurant (and fine dining altogether) to build something new with his friends, Ted Wilson and Sean Netzer, at Union Loafers Cafe and Bakery. “He’s a wildly intellectually curious person, and that’s the driver for him – that’s why he’s such a good cook,” said Matt McGuire, owner of Louie and Lagerstrom’s former colleague at Niche. While Lagerstrom started making videos during the early days of the coronavirus pandemic, his move into YouTube began long before we grew sick of the word “pivot.” When, like many Americans, Lagerstrom was furloughed in mid-March, he was already two years gone from the restaurant industry, having left Union Loafers in 2018. When Lagerstrom left the restaurant he helped found to become a seafood specialist with food service distributor US Foods, the news spread like that of a sudden death. “Did you hear about Brian?” was how chefs greeted each other for weeks. What would possess Brian Lagerstrom to stop being a chef? “I got a lot of texts out of the blue from other chefs and friends like, ‘What’s going on?’ ‘Did something change for you?’ And a lot of support – people saying, ‘We’ll miss your food,’” Lagerstrom said.
34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
It’s natural to want a reason when someone chooses a path opposed to your own – to want to know what’s wrong with yours, or what’s wrong with that person for straying. The funny thing is that Lagerstrom’s incentive for leaving (his new role at US Foods offered increased pay for less grueling hours) was well known; but still, it was considered an insufficient explanation. Lagerstrom was thought of as a true believer, and true believers don’t just walk away. Craft said that to succeed in the high-pressure environment of 2015 Niche, you had to be a talented self-starter, and Lagerstrom was one of the best. He started a new bread program and taught himself how to make vinegar and cheese. “I think he ended up getting us raided by the health department,” Craft said, laughing. “But it was very much worth it.”
In the broccoli Caesar salad episode of Weeds & Sardines, Lagerstrom advises, “Don’t go too crazy on perfection, just pay attention,” while chopping vegetables. It’s advice he doesn’t always follow. While at Niche, he watched endless hours of YouTube learning how to make Camembert – something he wasn’t told to do and didn’t get a bonus for. “Some of the best cheese I’ve ever had in my life,” said McGuire. “And he did that because he was interested in the process. If he was learning, he was good. If that was ever taken away from him or threatened, his interest level went way down.” At Union Loafers, Lagerstrom was part of a team of equally obsessive perfectionists; together, they created a menu of classic sandwiches and salads quickly recognized as some of the best in town. In Wilson, Lagerstrom found an ideal partner – neither are ever satisfied with their work; both endlessly seek to improve. “I swear, a lot of the food that both those guys make are the best versions I’ve ever had,” McGuire said. “I can say that very easily.” But after three years, Lagerstrom could not help but “pull the camera back,” as McGuire put it. While many professional chefs just put their heads down and focus on the tasks at hand while years pass by, according to McGuire, that was never Lagerstrom’s style; he was able to see himself in a bigger context. Lagerstrom’s mind turned toward the restaurant industry as a whole, considering his place in it. Partly, this was because he had married Adermann, a woman who also wouldn’t leave a dirty dish in the sink to be dealt with tomorrow.
When Lagerstrom and Adermann devoted their considerable energy to eliminating the mountain of student debt Lagerstrom had been ignoring while he built his career, they were able to get out from under it in two years. The accomplishment made them start thinking more seriously about the future. It was the first time he truly thought about doing something else. “I was like, ‘Is it possible for me to look at myself as someone who is not a chef?’ Because I had spent 10 years, 11 years, cooking and trying to be who I was, right? And over time I was like, ‘I guess I could.’” The difficult cost-benefit analysis that Lagerstrom underwent in his decision to leave Union Loafers is one that many restaurant owners and chefs are currently making. “COVID has exposed how fragile and dangerous our industry is to be in,” McGuire said. “Brian was ahead of it, which is not surprising – ahead of the curve on that greater question.” Is the restaurant industry worth it? Does the good outweigh the bad? When do those scales tip? The systemic frailty – the slim margins and crippling debt that people accept as price of admission – has gotten a lot more attention thanks to the activism of restaurateurs emboldened by the threat of extinction that came with the pandemic. McGuire joked that in a competition for success in the restaurant business, the person who wins is the one willing to have the shittiest personal life. Lagerstrom loved his co-workers and the work that they did together, but Union Loafers was still a restaurant, and working in a restaurant takes its toll. “I was a little worn out,” Lagerstrom said. “It’s tough for me to say that, knowing what Ted was going through too – like he’s the type of guy where I thought I was doing a lot and he was always doing 20% more than me. I was just frustrated.” When Lagerstrom received US Foods’ offer, what he had told himself was totally hypothetical became real. The deal was too good to pass up. “At that point, all of the Sauce Magazine covers and Instagram followers and stuff, that doesn’t matter at all,” he said. “If my wife and I are not able to save money for retirement and be able to go on like one vacation a year, what’s the point?” “When you care so much, it can eat you alive,” Craft said. “Something’s always messed up, something’s always going wrong. [Brian] took his work very seriously, and I know this feeling of how much you can put on yourself. There are times that I’ve wished I could leave this industry.”
October 2020
SHEET-PAN PIZZA
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
recipe on p. 38
October 2020
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35
McGuire said working in a restaurant is like living in the monotonous routine of a monastery. He takes joy in what he called the chopping wood aspect – the rhythm of the physical work and the service. For Craft, the path to a sustainable life in the industry has been to let some parts of it go. “Fine dining – that drive, that push – it is not easy work. It’s physically demanding, and it’s emotionally demanding,” he said. At times, working at Niche was so intense that cooks would step away to cry in the hallway. It was a significant factor in his decision to close it the year after winning a James Beard Award. In an effort to develop a healthier and more rewarding company culture, Craft has focused on restaurants like Pastaria and Brasserie, where he said people go to eat rather than to experience a form of artistic entertainment. Lagerstrom knew he was making the right decision, but he had been in that world for more than a decade. Choosing to say goodbye was like voluntary excommunication. “You’re separated from your closest group of friends – that extends to everyone who works there,” he said. Leaving Wilson was especially painful. “You work together in the same room all day and then you stand next to each other on a pizza station again for the whole night – every day for three straight years. You literally spend 10 to 15 hours a day next to somebody and now you don’t see them at all.”
Eventually, after an extended social media break,
In the Weeds & Sardines episode on chicken salad, Lagerstrom says, “As a restaurant chef, some of my favorite work was always to tackle a classic dish. I liked really breaking them down and trying to find out what was most craveable about them at a fundamental level.” Once the cannon of Loafers’ menu was built, Lagerstrom was no longer able to enjoy that process. “I think coming from a place like Niche where we were literally changing stuff every day, and R&D-ing the next thing every day, to then
36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
having a set menu for years [would be] incredibly challenging,” Craft said. “Matt’s thing is, he’s manning the post. He’s in the corner of the restaurant – he’s very romantic about that,” Lagerstrom said, referring to McGuire. “For him, it’s not low-quality work because of course, it changes every day, he’s talking to different people. Service – I miss doing that a lot. Having technical skills and putting them to use in live action is really, really rewarding. But the other 12 hours of the day are like – I don’t know if it’s worth it.”
He filled his free time – he had that now – with gardening, exercise and cooking really good food he could actually share with Adermann. They went on a vacation to Italy, complete with many Google Docs and assigned planning tasks. “We have very similar mindsets,” Lagerstrom said. They talked about projects they could take on as a team. Lagerstrom doesn’t watch TV. Instead of scrolling through Netflix during his time off, he’s usually watching dry, instructional YouTube videos about gardening or something he wants to make. He
October 2020
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
he downloaded the apps back onto his phone and reconnected with his former co-workers. He soon transitioned out of his role as seafood specialist to his current position, as US Foods’ regional chef for southern Illinois and Missouri. He basically works triage for places that don’t have experienced chefs by helping them develop dishes that are delicious but also efficient, requiring only rudimentary skills and a limited pantry.
had been interested in creating his own cooking videos for years, but that had been impossible while he was a restaurant chef. Then came COVID-19 and Lagerstrom’s furlough from US Foods. Not the kind of people who waste available time, the couple immediately bought a Canon M50 digital camera especially suited for video production and started shooting full time, releasing two to three videos a week on the newly created Weeds & Sardines channel. It was the first time they worked together – technically. “I’m not trying to sound lovey-dovey here,” he caveated unnecessarily, “but we kind of approach our whole life as a project.” Since Lagerstrom returned to work at the end of June, they’ve maintained a steady production of about one video a week. Lagerstrom said he’ll be happy if they hit 5,000 subscribers in 10 months, but given their current pace, it wouldn’t be surprising if they hit 10,000. “Weeds & Sardines, I think, is fantastic because it allows him to engage all the things that he loves,” McGuire said. “Teaching is the best form of learning, and he is basically continuing to learn by finding a way to show us how to do this stuff.” Lagerstrom’s current consulting position can be more demanding than his initial role at US Foods; sometimes he has to put in 10-plus hour days. He said he tries to take one full day off of both work and video every week to prevent burning out. Basically, he’s back to restaurant hours – but on his own terms. “He looks the happiest I’ve ever seen him,” Craft said.
Weeds & Sardines demands the same creative drive, the same dogged, unending pursuit of better that Lagerstrom had at Niche and Union Loafers. He misses Wilson, Netzer and everyone in the kitchens he’s loved, but now he gets to work in tandem with the equally meticulous and driven Adermann. And he never would’ve been able to do this without his experience at US Foods. “At US Foods, a lot of what I do is communicate food to people who aren’t as skilled – trying to sell more fun, advanced techniques or sell them on the idea of putting in a little more work on the food,” he said. “It’s important to me that people use it – otherwise it’s just entertainment, that doesn’t feel as good.”
October 2020
“My thought is, if there’s a recipe that seems kind of advanced, how can I edit out all of the barriers to entry?” he said. “The barbacoa, for example, if you wanted to really chef it out, you could have a 30-item puree instead of just dried spices. But where does it cross over from the point where it’s still as good as it could be but it’s the style that people would want to make at home? I’m not naive enough to think that people are going to go out and get dried guajilloes and ancho chilies. It’s not going to happen. So, can we make great barbacoa without that? And the answer is definitely yes.” He says that a lot. “Is it possible for me to make a better version of this at home than something I can buy at the store? For English muffins, the answer is definitely yes,” he declares in one episode, “DEFF YEZ” flashing beside him in all caps. Most Weeds & Sardines videos begin with a talking head introduction from Lagerstrom explaining why you should make the recipe. Dressed simply, in a standard white button-down shirt and black apron, he is funny and direct without the bombastic excitement of some food TV. “The question for me is, ‘Can we make an apple fritter at home that’s worth it?’ And I say, definitely yes,” he says confidently. “I’ve been working on this fritter all week and I’m really happy with the product I’ve gotten to.” While this would be under-enthusiastic encouragement from some, from Lagerstrom it is utterly convincing praise. Adermann and Lagerstrom’s goal is to bring value to their audience, not just clickbait. “This is a conversation Lauren and I have a lot – is it entertainment or is it instruction? The best version is both.” Expert but conversational and a little goofy, Weeds & Sardines talks you through recipes with just the right amount of instruction, including helpful tips and jargon picked up in professional kitchens. As restaurant owners and chefs scramble for solutions in the coronavirus era of dining, McGuire sees his former co-worker forging a new path forward. “I think he’s a really interesting figure, especially at this time,” McGuire said. “He’s on this path to make food work for him, which I admire greatly because it’s something I’ve struggled with my whole life.” “I think the value I bring is that I was a chef for a long time,” Lagerstrom said. “I guess I still am a chef.”
Weeds & Sardines, YouTube: Weeds & Sardines
BUY IT Brian Lagerstrom’s top kitchen tools “I have always taken a simple approach to gear,” Lagerstrom said. Aside from rubber spatulas and wood spoons, he rarely uses anything beyond this list. All items available at amazon.com unless otherwise noted.
1. Kuhn Rikon peeler
“As far I am concerned, this peeler is the standard issue for pro kitchens. I’ve been using them for years. They are cheap, reliable and really unfancy. Gotta have this.” $8.
2. Benriner Japanese mandoline
“These are super versatile – another kitchen tool that is indispensable. Again, these are pretty standard issue in the kitchens I’ve worked in. Better than expensive German mandolines, which are costly and cumbersome.” $45.
3. Winco 14-inch nonstick stainless steel pan
“I use this for 80% of my cooking. I pan-roast most of my food for speed, and I hate washing sheet trays. You can sear four steaks in this thing or roast three to four crowns of broccoli. In my experience, high-end nonsticks are not necessary. These last for two to three years if you don’t abuse them too hard.” $49. restaurantsupply.com
4. Le Creuset dutch oven
“I got a French blue Le Creuset when I was 20, and it’s in the top three favorite items in my possession.” Prices vary.
5. Misono or Masahiro Japanese gyuto knives
“The Japanese version of a chef ’s knife – 95% of the cooks I’ve worked with over the years use Japanese knives. They get sharper, I like the form factor more, and the blades are thinner, meaning more precision.” Prices vary.
6. 36-inch cutting board
“Get something that gives you some space. Cooking is hard and brutish on a 12-inch cutting board, it’s messier, and those lighter, small boards move around. I have a 36-inch Boos black walnut board. It was $200, but I use it two to three times a day every single day.” Prices vary.
7. Medium stainless steel mixing bowls
“Brand doesn’t matter. Get at least two. You can proof bread in them or mix a salad for four to six people. They are easy to wash and last a lifetime. You should not be using a heavy, expensive ceramic bowl to mix mayonnaise and slaw together.” Prices vary.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37
SHEET PAN PIZZA
Courtesy of Weeds & Sardines’ Brian Lagerstrom
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4 to 6 servings 1¼ cup warm water 1 ¼-oz. packet active dry yeast 3¼ cups all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for baking 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes 1 tsp. dried garlic 2 tsp. oregano, plus more for garnish 2 tsp. crushed chile flake, plus more for garnish 1 tsp. sugar 16-oz. low moisture mozzarella, sliced lengthwise, from a block 1 7-oz. stick pepperoni, thickly sliced 2 Tbsp. Calabrian chilies, or to taste (optional) 8-oz. whole milk mozzarella, thickly sliced ½ cup grated Romano, Parmesan or a blend • In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the water and yeast. Let rest about 5 minutes, making sure the yeast is active and produces bubbles. • Add the flour, olive oil and 2 teaspoons salt. Mix with a dough hook on medium speed just until the dough balls up and starts to clear the bowl, about 5 minutes. • Wrap the bowl in plastic and let rise until the dough is about 2½ times its original size, which will take about 2½ hours. It should look shiny, soft and bubbly. • Oil a half sheet pan liberally, and transfer the dough onto it. Using your fingertips, press the dough flat, pushing it out until it forms a 10-inch round. Flip an additional sheet tray over the first to cover and let rest 1 hour. • Meanwhile, make the sauce by
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combining the crushed tomatoes, dried garlic, oregano, 2 teaspoons salt and sugar in a medium bowl. Preheat the oven to 550 degrees. Using your fingertips, gently push the dough into the corners of the sheet pan. The dough should be fully relaxed and able to spread, filling the whole pan. Make sure your pan is fully coated with olive oil, adding more if necessary. Place the slices of mozzarella over the entire pizza dough in a single layer. Spread an even layer of sauce over the cheese, then top generously with the pepperoni. Distribute the Calabrian chilies and fresh mozzarella slices over the pizza, then sprinkle with the RomanoParmesan blend. Bake 25 minutes, checking halfway to make sure the pizza isn’t burning. The bottom should be crispy and evenly browned.
CHICKEN SALAD
Courtesy of Weeds & Sardines’ Brian Lagerstrom 4 servings 1 3¼ to 4 lb. whole chicken 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. distilled white vinegar 1 egg yolk ¾ tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup plus 3 Tbsp. avocodo oil ½ cup bread and butter pickles, roughly chopped 3 Tbsp. grain mustard Juice of 1½ lemons 2 Tbsp. diced red onion, rinsed ½ bunch parsley, chopped 2 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped • Season the chicken liberally with salt, including the cavity, and place on a rack on a sheet tray. Refrigerate
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uncovered 12 to 24 hours before baking. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Bake the whole chicken on the rack and sheet tray until the breast temperature reaches 165 degrees and the thigh temperature reaches 185 degrees, about 2½ hours. Let cool completely. You can do this step up to 2 days ahead. Meanwhile, make the mayo by combining the white vinegar, egg yolk and salt in a large mixing cup. Puree with an immersion blender until well combined, then stream in the avocado oil until thick and emulsified. Set aside. Remove the meat from the chicken bones and measure 5 cups for the chicken salad. Reserve any leftover meat for another use. You can also reserve the bones and any drippings to make your own stock. Roughly chop the 5 cups chicken and transfer to a medium bowl. Add ¾ cup reserved mayo, the pickles, mustard, lemon juice, red onion, parsley and tarragon. Use your hands to mix the salad, running your fingertips through the mixture, then letting your wrist go limp and whipping the chicken salad with your fingers until well combine. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
BROCCOLI TAHINICAESAR SALAD
Courtesy of Weeds & Sardines’ Brian Lagerstrom 4 servings 2 cups cubed, stale rustic bread ¾ cup avocado or other neutral oil, plus more for cooking 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste ¹∕³ cup tahini
¹∕³ cup water Juice of 2 lemons 5 anchovy fillets, rinsed 1 garlic clove 2 Tbsp. drained capers 1½ lbs. broccoli crowns, cut into ¾-inch pieces ½ lb. Napa cabbage, about ½ a heart 3 Tbsp. grated Parmesan • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium bowl, toss the bread with about 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon salt. • Spread the bread in an even layer on a ¼ sheet pan and bake until dried, toasty and browned, about 15 minutes. Let cool, then roughly chop and set aside. • In a tall mixing cup or blender, combine the tahini, water, lemon juice, anchovy and garlic with an immersion blender or regular blender until well pureed. Stream in ¾ cup avocado oil to emulsify, then refrigerate until needed. • To a medium saute pan on high heat, add the drained capers then about 2 tablespoons avocado oil. Fry until browned, puffed and crispy, about 1 minute. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate and set aside. • Wipe out the pan and return to high heat. Add ¹∕³ of the broccoli then about 2 tablespoons avocado oil. Pan roast until slightly charred and barely cooked thought, about 45 seconds. Add salt to taste and transfer to a paper towel-lined, medium-sized bowl. Working in batches, repeat with the remaining broccoli. • Remove the core and outer white stems of the Napa cabbage, then chop. • In a large mixing bowl, combine the Napa cabbage, broccoli, capers, croutons and Parmesan. Dress with the tahini-Caesar to taste and toss to combine. Transfer to a serving platter and top with additional capers, croutons, dressing and Parmesan, if desired.
October 2020
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
BROCCOLI TAHINICAESAR SALAD recipe on p. 38 October 2020
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
“ I k n ow p e o p l e l ov e j u i c e – orange and apple juice are everywhere, but they’re made from concentrates and really high in sugar, so I started thinking, ‘Can I do a low-sugar, high-fiber juice?’”
ANGELA ZENG CEO OF KARUNA
“Everything is designed on traditional herbal m e d i c i n e a r t s – what we learned over thousands of years and generations of testing and experimenting. I do research the medical function and the clinical data behind each ingredient, but the taste has to be suitable for Westerners.”
When Angela Zeng moved from China to St. Louis in 1996 to earn a PhD in pathology from St. Louis University, she began to realize most Americans were overconsuming sugar. After completing her doctorate and a stint working for a pharmaceutical company, she landed a job with China’s top producer of apple juice concentrate. These experiences, together with a lifelong interest in traditional Chinese medicine, inspired her to create Karuna, a line of low-sugar beverages, in 2016. “Karuna means compassion [in Sanskrit],” she said. “It’s one of the foundations of Buddhism. You have to have compassion in order to have happiness and longevity.” Now, with a production facility in downtown St. Louis, this CEO is learning the ins and outs of the retail beverage space. Here, Zeng chats about drawing on different cultures’ nutritional science, the unique ingredients used in her blends, and why she doesn’t have an exit strategy. – Lauren Healey
“ M y f i r s t r e m e d y wa s [a cream] to apply on my fingers during
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“The juice is shelf s ta b l e . It’s not cold-pressed. … We use lots of roots, vegetables, skins. We don’t use processed ingredients.” “On the other side , i t i s t r u e t h e h e at i n g p r o c e s s d e s t r oys c e r ta i n v i ta m i n s . The most notable one is Vitamin C, which can go down about 20% [when heated], but many others are heat insensitive.” “ W h at I l e a r n e d q u i c k ly a s a n e n t r e p r e n e u r is that you have to remain very flexible and openminded. There’s always this big risk factor – how to balance a very unique ingredient formulation that makes your product stand out but not scare your consumer away.”
cold winter days. It didn’t work – it made it worse. My mom had to take me to the clinic. She said we’d never do it again, but I never gave up.” “ I wa s a lway s v e r y e n t r e p r e n e u r i a l . I started the first flower shop on my campus in Shanghai. … [Years later], I got the opportunity to help a Chinese company [Hengtong Juice] to build their franchise here. That allowed me to get into the
juice industry. Our clients were very large: Coke, Pepsi, everyone on the list.” “ W h e n I l o o k e d at [Hengtong Juice’s] p r o d u c t s , I started to understand why the general population has so many health issues. There’s such high prevalence rate of diabetes, obesity. … If we don’t address this issue, it doesn’t matter how much medicine we develop or how much we spend on health care.”
“For me, it’s less about p u r e b u s i n e s s , like trying to sell my brand to a large company. I was more thinking seriously about what health benefits and functionality I can bring to the table, researching each ingredient from a health standpoint. People ask, ‘What’s your exit strategy?’ And I never really thought about that. It’s not about the money; otherwise, I should stick with what I was doing before.” Available at Dierbergs, Schnucks, Whole Foods and more. mykaruna.com
October 2020
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
“ S i n c e I wa s v e r y y o u n g , I was drawn to Chinese traditional medicine. When I first visited an herbal store, it looked more interesting compared to a toy store for me – the aroma, the way it’s arranged – you have to weigh everything on a super-cute small scale. … I was only 5 years old when I started experimenting with herbal remedies myself.”
“ I a lway s u s e at l e a s t o n e i n g r e d i e n t t h at ’ s t r e a s u r e d in [Chinese] herbal culture. For example, goji berry, mung bean sprouts, a berry from the Himalayas called sea buckthorn berry – very high in antioxidants, tons of benefits.”
October 2020
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
KREIS' STEAKHOUSE AND BAR BY LIZ WO LFS O N
It was a small miracle that Byron heard about the opportunity at Kreis.’ “My dad never went out. Never! He worked seven days a week, 15 hours a day,” recalled Renee. “The ironic thing,” she added, laughing, “was the friend that told him it was for sale, they were kind of feuding at the time!”
Kreis’ Steakhouse, famous for its gargantuan prime rib, has operated in the same location in Frontenac since 1948. The German Kreis family opened the restaurant as a roadside tavern positioned on U.S. Hwy. 67 that specialized in providing “chicken dinners and shuffleboard” to road-weary travelers,
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according to the current owners, siblings George Tompras and Renee Tompras Bogdanos. The restaurant’s German roots are still visible in menu items like the Vienna Schnitzel and Schnitzel a la Holstein. In the early 1980s, George and Renee’s father, Byron Tompras, was
dining out at the steakhouse when he learned that the Kreis family was searching for a new operator. Byron owned the original Garavelli’s Cafeteria, then still in its original location on DeBaliviere Avenue, which he expanded to new locations throughout the metro area over the years.
The kitchen is helmed by chef Trent Thrun, who said he is particularly proud that Kreis’ is “a 95, 96% fromscratch kitchen,” a rarity in modern restaurants. “We’re not making our own ketchup, we’re not making our own mayo. But everything else is brought in raw, chopped down [and] cooked up.” By balancing good taste and an eye for new dining trends with respect for tradition, the Tomprases have succeeded in keeping longtime customers satisfied while cultivating new devotees through word-of-mouth websites like TripAdvisor – a surefire recipe for institutional status.
535 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, 314.993.0735, kreissteakhouse.com
October 2020
PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
Byron called the Kreises to put in an offer the very next day. By the mid-1980s, the Tompras family had purchased the restaurant outright; George and Renee took over operational duties in 1991. For the most part, the Tomprases made minimal changes to a menu and operations that had been running smoothly for nearly 35 years. The steakhouse’s soft furnishings, formal waiters and dim lighting may be holdovers from an older era in dining culture, but that is precisely what Kreis’ patrons love about eating there.
October 2020
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