October 2023

OCTOBER 2023 • VOLUME 23, ISSUE 10

PUBLISHER

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MANAGING EDITOR

DIGITAL EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR DESIGNER

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EVENTS COORDINATOR

LISTINGS EDITOR

INTERN

Allyson Mace

Meera Nagarajan

Liz Wolfson

Lauren Healey

Iain Shaw

Meera Nagarajan

Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey

Alexander Grman, Danny Hommes, Izaiah Johnson, Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey, Kelsey McClure, Meera Nagarajan, Alexander Olson, Iain Shaw, Matt Sorrell, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson

Allyson Mace

Kelli Jones

Amy Hyde

Amy Hyde

Ryan Tyrrell

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2023– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of

the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors

with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Eat This

Paul Manno’s Restaurant in Chesterfield has been open for decades, and while there are many dishes on the menu that we love, the shrimp scampi has won our hearts. Whether you order it as an appetizer or the gamberone scampi entree, the perfection of the shrimp is the same: breaded, broiled and served with a luscious, lemony sauce with briny caper berries and herbs. It’s a simple plate with richness, acidity and complexity that’s delicious every time.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Paul Manno’s Restaurant 75 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.878.1274, paulmannos.com

DRINK THIS

Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.’s Third of the Way to März is the lead ship in the sea of Oktoberfests. This Märzen poster child, which spent two weeks fermenting followed by 10.5 weeks in the lager phase, showcases the roastiest of German malts nobly balanced with subtle (also German) hops for bittering. Finishing crisp and toasty, it is an homage to summer’s march into fall. Truly, a lager for the season. – Kelsey McClure

Four-pack: $12. Narrow Gauge Brewing Co., 1545 N. Highway 67, Florissant, narrowgaugestl.shop

hit list 2 new places to try this month

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

idol wolf

opposite page: the dining room at idol wolf; clockwise from top: cocktails at idol wolf, pan roasted black cod at idol wolf and idol wolf's executive chef matt daughaday

IDOL WOLF + GOOD PRESS

At Idol Wolf, the gorgeous restaurant inside the new 21c Museum Hotel St. Louis, the tapas, or small, plated dishes, shine. Smokey grilled broccolini with a caper-anchovy relish was served on top of whipped ricotta for a savory and complete dish. The deceptively simple pan con tomate, served on grilled Union Loafers toast and topped with crushed tomato with notes of garlic and vinegar, highlighted beautiful ingredients. The option to add toppings like manchego, boquerones (anchovies) or jamon was a nice touch. Dessert didn’t disappoint either; the churros were an obvious choice, but the tarta de Santiago, a delicately flavored almond cake served with a coffee ice cream, was the surprise clear winner. On the beverage side, Spanish wines, vermouths and sherries supported the Spanish theme. Cocktails like the coconut clarified daiquiri served with a basil-lime ice cube and the chorizo margarita with chorizowashed mezcal proved to be creative twists on classic drinks.

At Good Press, the hotel’s breakfast and lunch cafe, coffee, tea and juices are all sourced locally from Northwest Coffee Roasting Co., Big Heart Tea Co. and St. Louis Juice Press. Pastries by La Bonne Bouche and Companion Bakery are also available. The marinated chickpeas bathed in a red wine vinaigrette and five-herb blend and the spicy marinated cucumber salad with smashed cucumbers, green onion and sesame seeds both featured sharp, tangy flavors in generous portions that make for good-value lunch options.

1528 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.325.0360, idolwolfstl.com; goodpresscafe.com

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

FROM BOTTLE TO BEACH

Corona beer partners with the Glass Recycling Foundation in upcoming pop-ups on STL patios

BY KIANA FLEMING

Grab an ice-cold Corona and some friends and do your part to protect the environment while having fun one bottle at a time at an interactive eco-friendly experience.

Leading international producer of the popular Corona beer Constellation Brands and the Glass Recycling Foundation (GRF), a nonprofit organization centered on community glass recycling efforts, is bringing their environmental sustainability efforts to a St. Louis patio near you.

For the past three years, the initiative has educated and brought awareness to beer lovers on recycling and sustainable practices while diverting glass away from landfills so it can be adequately recycled into new products. Beer drinkers may not know that pulverized glass crushed to its finest becomes sand. It is the only raw material that can be recycled infinitely, without losing its quality or purity with no added elements. By the end of the year, the initiative will have traveled to 61 cities.

“There is limitless potential for the reuse of glass,” said Andy Keefner, OnPremise Director of Constellation Brands Beer Division. “We have the material right at our fingertips, so why not put it back into beneficial use, right back into manufacturers. The initiative was not just about Corona’s needs; it was about society’s needs.”

Constellation Brands and GRF work with innovative leaders in the recycling market like North America’s largest glass recycler Strategic Material Inc. (SMI), which has a location in St. Louis, that takes the sand and makes new glass bottles, containers and fiberglass, or gives it a new purpose in landscaping, construction, fillers in paints, highway beads and even coastal restoration.

To make this happen, the Corona Crusher activation machine will be making its rounds to approximately 20 bar and restaurant patios in the St. Louis region from October through early November for pop-up events. For two hours, the Corona Crusher will be active. Patrons can drink a beer, bring their empty clear bottles to the Corona Crusher machine, and witness the grinding process in realtime, watching glass turn into sand.

“Consumers are so engaged in the process, and we really want to give the consumers the recognition of their good efforts. It’s amazing to see a consumer watch a Corona bottle turn into a beach,” said Keefner.

Afterward, patrons can enjoy an arts and crafts activity, pouring sand into vials and take home a planter with seed coasters that grow into wildflowers.

Be on the lookout for the Corona Crusher this fall! Stay connected to social media for location drops.

The Kitchen Culture cocktail at New Society is like a liquid caprese salad, with olive-infused vodka, roasted tomato water, liquid koji and a mozzarella foam.

THE SAVORY SIDE

From lamb curry-inspired cocktails to drinks topped with mozzarella foam, bartenders are pushing savory cocktail culture to surprising new heights.

BY MATT SORRELL // PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

The Pho Sho cocktail at Frazer's Restaurant & Lounge is made with curry-infused cachaca, coconut gomme syrup, lemon verbena tincture and lime juice.

play major roles in drinks from the venerable bloody mary to the ever-popular dirty martini. But more subtle and varied uses of these sorts of saporous essences are appearing on area cocktail menus than ever before.

Around town, savory notes can be found in drinks like the Southpaw at Lazy Tiger, a tasty concoction built around seaweedinfused London dry gin, or the Beets by J at Brennan’s, which relies on beet juice and pepper syrup to get its flavorful point across.

“I’ve always loved the idea of drinking things you’d normally eat,” said Terry Oliver, bar manager at Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge. At one point, Oliver actually had an entire savory section of his cocktail menu, and he still focuses on those sorts of flavors when developing new drinks. One of the standouts on Oliver’s current list is the Pho Sho made with curry-infused cachaca, coconut gomme syrup, lemon verbena tincture and lime juice, inspired by a favorite curried lamb dish at Pho Grand.

Platypus and New Society co-owner Meredith Barry is doing all manner of savory drinks at her bars, getting creative with everything from crab butter and pork fat to chicken stock, miso and even sweet potato. A Zombie variant called Flush It Here, featuring a dark rum that’s been infused with roast beef and chicken biscuit crackers, will soon go on the board at Platypus.

“It’s weird, and it works,” Barry said. “It has that savory-sweet balance.”

As befits its experimental nature, New Society also offers an abundance of savory sips, like Kitchen Culture, a cocktail that’s like a liquid caprese salad. Based on an oliveinfused vodka, roasted tomato water, liquid koji and a mozzarella foam, Barry said it’s a good bridge for those who like bloodys and dirty martinis and are ready to expand their horizons.

“It’s super savory but bright all at the same time,” she said.

Then there’s Unsung Starz , a pair of vegetal milk punches featuring peas and carrots as the primary players, a one-two punch that Barry refers to as an “umami bomb.”

Oliver said in years past it took a little bit of coaxing to get guests to step over the flavor line to the savory side, but it’s an easier sell now as customers are more adventurous with their libations. While these sorts of flavors may take a bit more work to integrate into a liquid framework, the resulting alchemy is well worth the labor.

“I think it’s harder to play [with savory flavors] in liquid form, so it’s a challenge,” Barry said. “But when you do it, you realize all those things work. I think that there are so many savory notes that can be pulled forward in spirits, so why not?”

Lazy Tiger 210 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.8888, lazytigerstl.com

Brennan’s 316 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.497.4449, cometobrennans.com

Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge 1811 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, 314.773.8646, frazersgoodeats.com

Platypus 501 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.448.1622, drinkplatypus.com

New Society 3194 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis,  newsocietystl.com

avory elements in cocktails are nothing new. Piquant flavors

Every Gramophone

WE TRIED ALL 40, SO

Sandwich, Ranked

BY LAUREN HEALEY,

HYDE, MEERA

AMY

NAGARAJAN, IAIN SHAW, MICHELLE VOLANSKY AND LIZ WOLFSON // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

With 40 sandwiches featuring all manner of fillings, breads, sauces, seasonings and other accoutrement, ordering at The Gramophone can be daunting. Given its stellar reputation as one of St. Louis’ finest sandwich-slinging establishments, you know there probably aren’t any wrong choices. But which is the right one for you?

This is the kind of question we live for at Sauce HQ, and to adequately answer it, we decided the only viable option was to try every sandwich on The Gramophone’s menu. Once a week for 10 weeks, we tried four sandwiches in their standard menu form – no substitutions – which we rated and reviewed anonymously. Our comments reflect our range of sandwich tastes: While some detest an overly saucy sandwich, for others, there can never be too much sauce. Others prioritized texture combination in their ranking, or the use of chips. Whether you’re looking for a sandwich to scratch a particular flavor itch or to determine your forever Gramophone favorite, we hope this ranking helps you navigate the myriad delicious options at one of St. Louis’ definitive sandwich spots.

1.

Score: 4.75

Philly Cheesesteak

The Gramophone’s status may be a St. Louis legend, but our No. 1 Gramophone sandwich is decidedly not local. The restaurant’s Philly cheesesteak applies the principles of solid sandwich engineering with aplomb, showing why sampling a restaurant’s execution of a “simple” classic is a tried-and-true test of excellence. The bread – The Gramophone’s outstanding garlic-cheese baguette – holds its structure throughout with an enjoyably toasty crust and soft crumb. A well-tuned bread-tofilling ratio allows all the ingredients to come to the fore. Aromas of garlic from the bread and Cheez Whiz drift in and out of focus, each bite revealing a different emphasis of flavor: piles of thinly sliced roast beef, the vegetal sweetness of fleshy green peppers, and sauteed onions.

Would Philadelphians give it the thumbsup? What does that matter? This is The Gramophone’s Philly cheesesteak, and we love it.

Alcatraz

2.

Score: 4.6

Alcatraz

The Alcatraz epitomizes all the textbook strengths of a Gramophone sandwich: There’s a satisfying range of textures in each bite as you crunch through the crisp, toasty exterior of panini-pressed, garlic-buttered sourdough into melty, gooey layers of slowroasted beef, Swiss and Provel cheeses, and caramelized onions. A layer of tangy Boss sauce adds the perfect touch of sweet, vinegary contrast to the hearty umami bomb. Skip your usual post-Grove late night drive-thru and snag one of these bad boys for the ideal nightcap.

3.

Score: 4.5

Phil & Ched’s Excellent Adventure

This sandwich’s name makes perfect sense: It really is like if the Philly cheesesteak decided it needed to go on a walkabout and have an excellent adventure to shake things up in its life. It has all the things we love about the Philly – sweet, vegetal peppers and onions, shattering, garlicky baguette, gooey cheesiness, and satisfying meatiness – but Phil & Ched swaps the saucy Cheez Whiz for white cheddar’s distinctive nuttiness and subs hunks of grilled flank steak for the chopped beef. For some, the flank steak’s chewiness was a detriment, but for others the chew made the sandwich all the more satisfying. After all, what’s an adventure without a little challenge to keep things spicy?

Phil & Ched’s Excellent Adventure

4.

Score: 4.4

Frenchy

This sandwich is rich, rich. An abundance of gooey, melted Swiss cheese and a generous amount of chicken on the Frenchy is sure to give you an after-dinner dip. But this sandwich has other components to balance that richness out: an oil-and-vinegar aioli and red onion bring pops of sharpness and tang, while the crispy bacon is not at all gratuitous, bringing a salty bite and texture. The gently toasted sesame baguette it comes on is sturdy but yielding. It’s definitely over the top, but it’s also the kind of sandwich that will bring you calm after a long day or sustenance after a late night.

5.

Score: 4.2 (tie)

Taco Del

Nearly everyone loves tacos and sandwiches, but have you ever had a taco sandwich? On this specimen, a generous portion of the quintessential seasoned ground beef is accompanied by creamy nacho cheese, crisp red onion, along with tomato and shredded iceberg lettuce. A touch of tangy sour cream cools some of the heat from housemade hot sauce, while a light smattering of tortilla chips adds subtle crunch. All ingredients are enveloped by a hearty sesame baguette for a robust meal that truly embodies the beloved fast-food taco in sandwich form.

All Up In Your Grill

We cling to any excuse to eat cheese, especially when it’s four types of melty, gooey goodness. This sandwich takes your standard grilled cheese up several notches with Provel, mozzarella, white cheddar and gouda. A thick slab of tomato and a few pickle slices add vegetal complexity, while a mild, creamy avocado spread lends depth and richness. Amply buttered garlic sourdough bread rounds out this satisfying sandwich for a delightful, toothsome bite.

Score: 4.0

The Beef:

“Platonic ideal dip. Flavorful jus, garlicky, melting, crusty. Yum!”

“Love the garlickiness of it and the cheese.”

“Simple – allows the beef to shine.”

Chicka Chicka

Parm Parm:

“Love everything about this, except I wish it didn’t have bacon.”

“Bacon is a fun twist. Not too messy and the sauce has great flavor.”

“Love the sauce and how much there is; it’s a generous amount but still structurally sound.”

Beefy Popper Crunch:

“Love the crunchy chips and sweet-hot flavor. Jalapeno popper sauce is great. Not as full-flavored as other beef sandwiches on the menu.”

“Sturdy, and I like the soup – needs something else though.”

Mushroom

Mississippi Nights:

“Mushrooms are so good.”

“Doesn’t really come together as a cohesive sandwich to me. Mushroom feels like a substitution.”

“I love the pepper jack [cheese] and cucumber in this, such a nice contrast of textures.”

Score: 3.8

Spicy Mac Daddy:

“Good flavors and textures but could use more acidic punch.”

“Oddball sandwich, but I love it. Fun texture and flavors.”

“Pasta in sandwiches is bizarre but it is cooked well. Spicy and so good. Love the chips even though they’re soggy. What a weird and delightful hit!”

Spicy Portobello:

“My favorite of the veggie sandwiches. They said spicy and they meant it! Love

the Boss sauce and jalapenos. Love the cook on the mushrooms. Love the brioche!”

“Not unique or flavorful enough sauce. Heat is the biggest flavor.”

“Love the brioche and the spice, a neat, compact sandwich.”

Score: 3.75

General Patton:

“Love how rich and creamy it is. Love the ranch, love the bacon.”

Score: 3.6

The Club:

“Nice heat from pepper sauce, and the baguette has a good crust.”

Clubhouse:

“Love the mild heat from the pepper and Cholula mayos, the combination of meats and the sourdough. Very solid take on a club. Construction holds up.”

Score: 3.5

Big Meatball:Willie’s

“Very solid meatball sandwich. Not too messy. Love the sesame bread.”

“Meatball tastes pretty good, love the garlic buttered bread.”

“Love the meatball. Construction of it is dense for the sake of stability, but it’s not dry or overdone. Sauce flavor is good.”

Fireball:

“Love the flavor of the cheese sauce but the sandwich doesn’t need it.”

“Love the soup as a side dip for the meatball – great heat, rich but awesome.”

The Jive:

“The avocado spread and pepper mayo make this sandwich solid.”

“The tender turkey and crisp veggies are a good combination.”

Score: 3.4

Mississippi Nights Club:

“A bit much in terms of ingredients, but love the bacon in particular.”

“For the sauce averse, too saucy.”

“Love the chips, they give it a spicier note, which is nice against all the meats.”

The Veggie:

“Love a salad-as-sandwich.”

“Too sour and acidic, and too many bites feel like a wad of cream cheese.”

“A lot of cheese but balanced by vinegar and pickles, so it’s totally working.”

Reuben:

“It’s good, a little sweet.”

“Great take on a Reuben – love the flavor of the sauce and sauerkraut.”

“Really like all the corned beef – just a solid sandwich.”

Score: 3.3

Cold Smoked Salmon:

“Wish the bread was toasted. Cute sandwich version of a bagel and lox. Fish is fresh and good.”

“A bit too much going on. Let the salmon breathe!”

Dijon Don:

“Very mustard-y. Good tang from sweet pickles.”

“A little too sweet for my taste but the fillings play well together.”

Score: 3.2

South Austin Melt:

“I like that it’s pressed. Love the Boss sauce!”

“Solid turkey sandwich. Good texture, tangy Boss sauce gives good sweet/savory balance.”

Havana:

“Very salty, but I like the sweetness from the pickles.”

“Standard Cuban-style sandwich. Not much to say – safe.”

BBBLT:

“Love the mayo. Love the bread. Bacon is a little fatty sometimes… whatever.”

“Very good, standard BLT. Crispy bacon, good sauce.”

Score: 3.0

Crustacean Nation:

“Fresh crab is great and a rare treat in St. Louis. Would have rated higher but the chips detract a little for me.”

“Generous with the seafood, not too mayo-y, like the crunch from the chips.”

“Solid seafood salad. Big chunks of shrimp.”

The Yogi:

“Big and messy but food flavors and textures. Very solid Italian sub.”

“I think this is my favorite so far. A classic Italian deli sandwich, but prosciutto makes it stand out. Well balanced, and I like the dressings.”

“Very saucy.”

“Too much mayo!”

Buffalo Soldier:

“Kind of one note, Buffalo sauce flavor. Too wet and mushy.”

“Liked the ingredients, pretty well-balanced though maybe a little sauce heavy. The chips ended up a bit of a dud for me – a bit lifeless.”

“Love the sauciness! Chicken is moist, bacon crispy. Love it!”

Upstream Dream:

“Salmon works so well with the bacon! Good mix of textures. Salty, smoky, very flavorful.”

“Like the salmon, bacon and red onion together with leafy greens – good balance, not too saucy.”

Score: 2.8

Fight Club:

“The blue cheese is subtle – it tasted like feta. Caramelized onion adds flavor without salt.”

“Couldn’t taste horseradish or blue cheese.”

“Love the blue cheese and beef combo.”

32. Score: 2.6

Lou York:

“Sweet and tangy.”

“Love the slaw and Boss sauce, but the sandwich falls apart.”

“Pastrami was much tougher than the bread.”

The Steak Out:

“The steak is way too chewy. But I like the sauciness.”

“I like the bite from the jalapeno. Dressing is a bit overpowering.”

Score: 2.4

The Helper:

“The mac and cheese is bland. Not enough chips.”

“I like the flavors but not as a sandwich.”

Corsican:

“Solid sandwich. I like the spicy meats with the chicken.”

“Like the combination of meats, but who wants a sandwich this wet?”

Score: 2.25

Italian Yardbird:

“Chicken is tender and juicy and mushrooms have good flavor, but overall sandwich lacks flavor.”

“A good enough sandwich, I like the flavors of the individual ingredients but don’t think it all quite hangs together, a bit off-balance. A bit too much garlic butter on the baguette.”

“I think it’s very, very rich. Buttery bread and bacon and Provel – too rich.”

Boy Howdee:

“I like all the different textures, but the flavor is too one-note.”

“Love the heat level, but it feels like it’s missing something acidic like onion or pickled jalapenos.”

Score: 2.0

Enzo Gorlomi:

“Too many fatty meats causing texture landmines. I do like the spicy flavors.”

“Love this, all the meat, the dressing, but loses a point for the fatty excess [on the meat].”

“It’s a no for me. The fat scares me; I cannot fully commit.”

Danimal:

“Just a pile of meat without enough bread to support it.”

“This combo of meats was a bit much for me. I did like the heavy pickle and sauciness. The sourdough is too weak of a bread choice for this meat and sauce – needs a sturdy hoagie.”

Score: 1.8

When Pigs Fly:

“Good textures with crunchy bacon and bread combined with soft pulled pork and sauces.”

“Buffalo sauce doesn’t have enough heat.” “Promising flavor but ended up feeling like I ate a pizza topping after it slid off the base.”

4243 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.531.5700, gramophonestl.com

MICHAEL’S BAR & GRILL

BY IAIN SHAW

For Katina Malliotakis, one of the greatest sources of happiness in life is simply looking around her Franz Park restau rant, seeing people eating and drinking, laughing and enjoying themselves. “I love it,” she said. “I couldn’t do anything else. I love being around people. I’m Greek – it makes us happy to see you and entertain you.”

Malliotakis has seen three generations grow up in this place, and she’s grown up here with them. The restaurant has been part of her life since she was only 12 years old, when her father, Michael Malliotakis, brought his dream of owning a restaurant to life. Katina has been working at Michael’s since the age of 16, when she started doing

payroll and other administrative tasks. “I say this all the time, but it’s like Hotel California – everybody comes and nobody leaves,” she laughed. “I showed up one day, and I never left.”

Today’s restaurant is a far cry from the small, neighborhood biker bar Michael Malliotakis took over in the late 1970s.

Michael’s Place, as it was originally called, was half the size of the current restaurant, with space for around 70 customers. Michael ran it as a bar for a few years before turning it into a restaurant. He had ambitions for his restaurant, but he was also pragmatic.

“He wanted to change the atmosphere for sure,” Katina said. “He was hoping to

start it as a casual place, and then slowly move it upscale – but it didn’t, it stayed as a casual place.”

Michael grew up on the island of Rhodes before moving to the United States in his twenties. Today, Michael’s is consciously and proudly a GreekAmerican restaurant, with some of the menu’s biggest sellers including pastitio, moussaka, gyros and gyro salads, alongside its burgers, lamb shanks and steaks. But in the early years, the emphasis leaned heavily on the American part of that identity. “At that time, he didn’t want to be just labeled as a Greek restaurant,” Katina said. “It wasn’t until we were established, maybe about 10

years later, he started introducing Greek food.” New dishes were only added once Michael had perfected them to his satisfaction. “The way he taught us to be consistent, the way the kitchen is run, has made the place so successful,” Katina said.

By the 1990s, Michael’s was a neighborhood institution in Franz Park. The restaurant was remodeled, expanded to its current capacity of around 250 diners, and renamed Michael’s Bar & Grill. Although Michael remained involved in the restaurant until only a few months before he passed away in January 2021, successive strokes in 2008 and 2015 meant that he had long since entrusted

PHOTOS BY DANNY HOMMES

Katina with day-to-day operations. Even as a teenager, she had often paused to reflect on how much she had to learn, how ready she was to step into her father’s shoes should anything happen to him. The long apprenticeship served Katina well. “People say, ‘You’re just like your father,’” she said. “And I’m like, ‘Thank you, I’ll take that.’”

Of course, the restaurant has always been a huge part of Katina’s life, but she didn’t always realize that Michael’s might have a similar place in other people’s hearts. “There are so many restaurants,” she said. “I used to think, ‘Well, they can go anywhere, but why here?’ I didn’t really know.”

The answer became clear to her during the pandemic. “When lockdown

happened, the people who showed up to make sure that we survived, I couldn’t believe the things they were saying,” Katina said. “I knew how I felt, but I didn’t realize that that’s how they felt with us. That it was like home; there were memories, generations of people coming there.” People would tell her, “We need you, I grew up here, I grew up in this place.” Michael’s is home to Katina, just as it was to her father. But to its customers, it’s also a kind of home. “That is the biggest compliment that as a restaurant owner you can receive,” Katina said.

7101 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.644.2240, michaelsstl.com

OCTOBER

BY ALEXANDER OLSON

St. Louis VegFest

Oct. 1 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., The World’s Fair Pavilion in Forest Park, 1904 Concourse Drive, St. Louis, 314.833.9946, stlouisvegfest.org

St. Louis’s vegan-friendly festival is back again this year. Nearly anything you can think of to eat will be veganized there – from hot dogs, tacos and pizza to smoothies, cakes and cookies. And vegan covers more than just food. Cruelty-free apparel, body care products and other merch made without animal-derived materials will be available. You can also listen to presenters throughout the day, pot your own plants, join a cooking class and more. Free admission.

Best of Missouri Market

Oct. 6 - noon to 8 p.m., Oct. 7 and 8 - 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.577.5100, missouribotanicalgarden.org

More than 130 vendors will converge on the Missouri Botanical Garden including food stops like Seoul Taco and Doughboys and drinks from local wineries like Noboleis Vineyards, Still 630 Distillery and Edg-Clif Vineyards. There are also classes to attend throughout the day, live music, and craft and art vendors to see as well. Tickets available online.

Sauce Food Truck Friday

Oct. 6 – 3 to 7 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com

Like tough choices? Hit up our last Food Truck Friday in Tower Grove Park for the year. More than 20 of our favorite trucks will be there and, luckily, you can’t go wrong with any of them. Free admission.

St. Louis Bourbon Festival

Oct. 6 – 6 to 9 p.m., Lemp Grand Hall and Lofts, 1817 Cherokee St., St. Louis, stlouisbourbonfestival.com

The St. Louis Bourbon Society is taking over three city blocks on Cherokee Street and Demenil Place and filling them with food trucks, street performers, music and more – all in the name of bourbon. There will be a collection of more than 500 spirits to sample from. Unwind at the cigar patio or nosh on something from one of the many participating food trucks – the night is yours. A portion of the proceeds from the event go to the St. Louis Hero Network for First Responders. Tickets available online.

Sauce Harvest Festival

Oct. 8 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, harvestfeststl.com

A bountiful harvest of St. Louis’ creativity. You can grab a bite from places like Farmtruk, Cajun Seduction and Sedara Sweets then pair it with drinks by places like Noboleis Vineyards, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Sauce’s own cocktail bar. Local artists and farmers will be there with handmade and homegrown goods. You can also chill out in a chair and listen to tunes from live rock and blues bands. Free admission.

Farmers Formal

Oct. 13 – 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., The World’s Fair Pavilion in Forest Park, 1904 Concourse Drive, St. Louis, 314.521.1006, earthdancefarms.org

This event celebrates everything local – from the area chefs to the fresh ingredients grown by local farmers.

Even the proceeds will go to Earthdance’s Organic Farm School program – a teaching program for budding farmers in the St. Louis area. Farm-festive attire is recommended. And be sure not to miss the live auction of unique dining experiences and garden-inspired items. Tickets available online.

St. Louis Beer Fest

Oct. 21 – 8 to 11 p.m., Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.289.4400, stlouisbeerfest.com

The St. Louis Beer Fest is taking over the Science Center after hours, featuring more than 40 local breweries with nearly 120 kinds of beer. Your ticket includes unlimited samples and access throughout the museum with food available for purchase. Tickets available online.

Kimmswick Apple Butter Festival

Oct. 28 and 29 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Kimmswick, 636.467.7407, gokimmswick.com

Kimmswick takes apple butter very seriously. Kimmswick Historical Society members will be up before dawn to begin apple peeling and prep work. The carefully crafted spread is cooked over a wood-burning fire for seven to eight hours until it’s thick enough to put in jars. Nearly 500 vendors will take the streets at the festival with their own goodies – from food and drinks to handmade crafts. Apple butter will be for sale throughout the day until the last jar is sold. Free admission.

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