September 2016

brian lagerstrom of union loafers makes a mean salad, p. 34

GET THAT GREEN

6 salads you need in your life

GUIDE TO DRINKING (FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER)

R E V I E W VISTA R AMEN

WINE LISTS

P. 15

P. 27

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

September 2016

11 IDIOT- PROOF

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

THE COOLEST PL AC E S TO E AT P. 42 FREE, SEPTEMBER 2016

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S E P T E M B E R 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 9 What's your favorite salad in town?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

The salads at Katie's Pizza & Pasta rock my world.

FACT CHECKERS ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2016 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Companion's Pucker Up kale and Tiffany Leong grapefruit Catherine Klene Kristin Schultz Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, David Kovaluk, Dave Moore, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Kathleen Adams, Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Rebecca Koenig, Tiffany Leong, Mitch Mackowiak, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie Pearson, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz Suzanne Morlock, Kristin Schultz Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg The kale salad at Jill George Cleveland-Heath Amy Hyde was my first and now gold standard.

Amy Hyde Kathleen Adams, Jennifer Deist, Mitch Mackowiak, Mia Marlotte

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 September 2016

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contents SEPTEMBER 2016 editors' picks

dine & drink

9

25

EAT THIS

A SEAT AT THE BAR

Parisian Gnocchi at Urban Chestnut Brewery and Bierhall

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by mitch mackowiak

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

11

HIT LIST 3 new places to try this month

by catherine klene, tiffany leong and meera nagarajan 12

27

ELIXIR 11 idiot-proof wine lists

by kristin schultz 28

FIXATIONS by heather hughes, catherine klene, mitch mackowiak, meera nagarajan and kristin schultz

VEGETIZE IT Sweet potato nuggets

by kellie hynes 31

MAKE THIS

REVIEWS

Pork medallions with grapes and fennel

by dee ryan 15

NEW AND NOTABLE Vista Ramen

LAST COURSE

by michael renner 20

52

Guerrilla Street Food

by kathleen adams and catherine klene

STUFF TO DO

LUNCH RUSH by andrew barrett

italian salad at union loafers p. 34

56

23

WHAT I DO

NIGHTLIFE Mission Taco Joint – Central West End

Dan Brewer

by catherine klene

by matt berkley

Features PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER TO SEE THE GUIDE TO DRINKING. After years in a supporting role, vermouth is stepping into the spotlight on menus. Read more about the aromatized and fortified wine on p. 28. Also in this year's guide: Learn what bitter bottles should be in your bar, the exciting wines coming out of Portugal right now and why beers are headed to the beach.

Cover photo by Carmen Troesser

34

HEY GIRL, I MADE YOU A SALAD complied by meera nagarajan

42

THE COOLEST PLACES TO EAT

COVER DETAILS GET THAT GREEN Chef Brian Lagerstrom's Little Gem salad at Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery is legendary.

Get the recipe for this and five other crave-worthy salads on p. 34 PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

by maggie pearson September 2016

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

Be warned: the alluring, savory scent of URBAN CHESTNUT’S PARISIAN GNOCCHI may attract moochers. These delicate, pan-fried pillows melt in your mouth with Dijon mustard, fresh herbs and rich Comté Gruyere. Ours came swimming in a velvety dashi-butter broth with Missouri chanterelle and oyster mushrooms, crowder peas and bright cherry tomatoes. The beer may take us PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

to Dusseldorf, but a bite of this golden gnocchi whisked us away to Paris.

URBAN CHESTNUT BREWING CO. GROVE BREWERY & BIERHALL, 4465 MANCHESTER AVE., ST. LOUIS, 314.222.0143, URBANCHESTNUT.COM

September 2016

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hit list

3 new places to try this month

Pastry chef Nathaniel Reid has won international accolades for his sweet treats, but it wasn’t until August that he opened his own shop serving sweet and savory breakfast pastries, sandwiches, colorful tarts and cakes. Start your day off right with a sweet almond croissant, or grab a sandwich for lunch, like the roasted turkey with havarti cheese on a flaky plain croissant. For dessert, treat yourself to The Jarmo, pistachio cake topped with dollops of housemade pistachio cream and fresh berries, or The Amber, a dome of buttery mousse draped in caramel and ringed with pecans.

NATHANIEL REID BAKERY

11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.858.1019, Facebook: Nathaniel Reid Bakery

Starters are standouts at Twisted Tree.

Try the onion rings, which have a crackling crust that clings to the onions with each bite. Crab rangoon seems out of place on a steakhouse menu, but was piping hot, oozing with cream cheese filling and served with two dipping sauces: apricot sweet-andsour and zingy mustard. Salads are served family-style with sides of crumbled feta, freshly fried croutons and a trio of dressings (the onion-y, slightly sweet house vinaigrette was the winner). Don’t miss the luscious, tender prime rib; get it with a side of mac and cheese, where al dente noodles are swathed in a sharp white cheddar sauce and topped with crispy breadcrumbs. Don’t skip the house-made desserts. A giant slice of almond-y white wedding cake slathered with white buttercream came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Get the cheesecake (which has a sugar cookie crust) with the fresh, bright strawberry sauce.

TWISTED TREE STEAKHOUSE

the jarmo at nathaniel reid bakery; below: from top, the amber and the aurora

Coma Coffee Roasters is waking up Richmond Heights.

Espresso-based classics are available, but its lightly roasted drip option will please palates with no sugar or milk required. Iced coffee fans will dig the 18-hour cold brew, a deep, rich sipper perfect for tackling the 3 p.m. slump. Enjoy the last days of summer with the Coma affogato – espresso poured over Serendipity bourbon ice cream – or go tart with Lyfe, where a shot of bitter espresso mingles with pomegranate juice over ice in this earthy, balanced treat.

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

COMA COFFEE ROASTERS

Tune in to 90.7 KWMU Sept. 1 when Sauce discusses our new Hit List, then join later in the month when Sauce’s Meera Nagarajan chats with wine pros Andrey Ivanov and Glenn Bardgett about how to navigate the complex wine world.

September 2016

1034 S. Brentwood Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.250.1042, comacoffee.com

10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills, 314.394.3366, twistedtreesteakhouse.com

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Fixations From elegant cider to the best cheese ever, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

Very Vanilla For vanilla with va-va-voom, try Nielsen-Massey Pure Vanilla Bean Paste.

Richer than pure vanilla extract, this paste boasts intense vanilla-bean flavor perfect for ice cream, scones, panna cotta and more. $17. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com

Uncle Joe’s All-Purpose Sauces: XXX Hot At first, this award-winning barbecue sauce from Ina, Illinois lures you into a sweet sense of security, then attacks with an addictive triple-pepper punch of cayenne, habanero and black peppercorn. $3.50.

Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com

2015 Ameztoi Rubentis Txakolina Spanish Basque wines are all the rage, and this rosé is no exception with its floral and red berry notes, a dry citrus finish and light effervescence. $20. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Vermillion River Blue The Vermillion River Blue cheese from local Ludwig Farmstead Creamery is outstanding. This salty triple crème blue has more subtle truffle flavor than traditional funk. $8.50. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

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Charlie Bird playlist by SUPPER A good restaurant playlist lingers long after a great meal. New York’s Charlie Bird hits the spot with its compilation of ‘90s and early 2000s hip-hop. Available on Spotify, samg.bz/SauceCharlieFix

Cooked In this four-part series adapted from the 2013 book of the same name, food writer Michael Pollan explores the evolution of cooking through the elements: fire (grilling), water (soup-making), air (baking) and earth (fermenting). Available on Netflix.

Shacksbury ciders Somewhere between crisp sparkling wine and funky sour beer, Shacksbury has won us over with its apple ciders. Wine-lovers should start with the earthy Classic, while beer fanatics should head for the saison-ish Farmhouse and tart Arlo. $9 each. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

Drink MO Beer Gear Missouri pride, puns and beer: This Schlafly merchandise has it all. Pick up a growler, koozie or shirt with these words to live by. Prices vary. Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis; Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com

September 2016

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

smoked scallop with pickled beets and blackberry

new and notable vista ramen

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

T

he night of a heat advisory probably wasn’t the best time for hot soup, but there I was, uncontrollably slurping my way through a big bowl of steaming broth and noodles at chef Chris Bork’s hotly anticipated first restaurant, Vista Ramen. A solo diner next to me was bent over his piping bowl with the focus and reverence of a yoga master, inhaling deeply before picking it up to examine the contents, then nodding in approval. A row of diners lining the tightly spaced bar quietly worked their spoons and chopsticks, stopping only for air and praise.

new and notable VISTA R AMEN p. 15 / lunch rush GUERRILLA STREET FOOD p. 20 / nightlife MISSION TACO JOINT p. 23 September 2016

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– cured and then braised in a mixture of stock, mirin, miso, sake and soy contributed another complex layer of flavor and texture.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 3

The same base goes in the pozole ramen, but amped up with a shot of ancho chile paste for a deeper hue and subtle smokiness to which pulled chicken, hominy and that creamy sous vide egg are added. The veggie ramen, served with cauliflower, shiitake mushrooms and carrots on my visit, elicited the most surprise. The ramen’s deep and funky umami is built simply from the mushroom dashi base bolstered with roasted veggies including eggplant, beets and turnips for a finished product so rich, it seemed more like a liqueur than broth.

Menu descriptions did nothing to convey the excitement elicited by a plate of warm corn pudding in a pool of corn dashi, topped with smoked kernels of local sweet corn and halved sungold tomatoes.

A tersely described stack of five pork ribs proved ridiculously intoxicating – cooked at a low temperature then fried to a yielding yet crispy chew and coated with crab caramel (a caramelized fish sauce with crab paste), crushed peanuts and fresh herbs for a sweet and fragrant crunch. The Korean fried chicken – I’m calling them sliders – made the perfect snack: three bites of deep-fried, moist meat snuggled between a house-baked Hawaiian roll with korean thin-sliced fish sauce fried pickles. A final douse chicken on of gochujang-based a house-made sauce provided the hawaiian roll spicy, dry heat.

I wanted more kick from the kimchi pancakes. Three thin griddled cakes came topped with light and creamy coleslaw, slivered scallions and dollops of house-made hoisin sauce.

I hoped for a more discernable fermented funk from the kimchi in the batter.

Bork is best known for his stint as executive chef of Blood & Sand. For his first venture as co-owner, he’s partnered with Casey and Jeremy Miller of The Mud House, where he also once worked as executive chef. The team created a focused menu of four ramens, 10 small plates, a few sides and four desserts, plus a couple nightly specials.

September 2016

Despite its moniker, I wouldn’t call Vista Ramen a noodle house or ramen restaurant – though it is where I’m going for ramen from now on. The signature Vista ramen featured braised pork, a sous vide egg, ginger, scallion, nori and sesame in a broth so complex and addictively slurpable, I needed to know what went into it. When pressed,

the manager explained it begins with a dashi base made with water, kombu and mushrooms, used in all Vista’s ramen.

For the signature ramen, Bork layers in smoked ham hock, chicken feet and Granny Smith apples, simmering it all for at least 12 hours, resulting in a surprisingly light, clean-tasting broth.

The chunk of fork-tender pork shoulder

Take the specials seriously. One night it was a beautiful, meticulously prepared plate of cubed cantaloupe and bright yellow watermelon, each topped with paper-thin slices of ginger, a chanterelle mushroom, crispy shreds of fried ham hock and a few drops of a brown-butter vinaigrette. Every juicy bite was full of contrasting textures and salty zing.

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The sleek interior of Vista Ramen is as concise as its menu. With only 34 seats and the square footage of a large dollhouse, the long, shallow space can feel tight.

During my visits, though, I found the close crowd more convivial than territorial.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 3 of 3

The drink list is succinct with four house cocktails, a small selection of spritzes, Japanese teas, sake, reasonably priced wines ($7 to $11), beer and Japanese whiskeys. Of the cocktails, the Matcha Gonna Do For Me? seemed to be on every table, and for beer, the short-lived 4 Hands Preserved Lemon Gose paired particularly well with ramen.

Far from an afterthought, desserts were granted the same focus and precision as the rest of the menu. House lemongrassbasil ice cream was simple and light enough, but a little thing like three quarter-sized house-baked ginger snap cookies made a big difference. Summer peaches, poached and served over shortbread, got a mouth-puckering, eye-squinting blast of tartness from a scoop of Champagne sorbet. However, it was the salted honey panna cotta and watermelon dessert that provoked the most vocal approval: sweet, ruby red cubes of melon on a pillow of perfectly firm but creamy panna cotta surrounded by vista watermelon granita. ramen's While the house-made signature ramen graham crackers were with pork a bit too thick, it was shoulder easily the best dessert I had this summer. A special on my visit, the manager said they were considering keeping it on the menu for the remainder of the season. Later, a diner extolling his love of the ephemeral dessert cornered that poor manager, lobbying him to do just that. The dish is now a regular dessert menu item.

That’s the kind of passion Vista Ramen elicits, even when it’s 102 degrees.

AT A GLANCE Vista Ramen

September 2016

Where 2609 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.797.8250, vistaramen.com

Don’t Miss Dishes Warm corn pudding, all the ramen

Vibe Fun – filled with laughter, chatter and an eclectic soundtrack ranging from the B-52s to Fela Kuti

Entree Prices Ramen: $11 to $14, small plates: $7 to $12

When Mon. to Thu. – 5 to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

Lunch Rush GUERRILLA STREET FOOD

BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE

Guerrilla Street Food HQ has declared war on your hunger.

Owners Joel Crespo and Brian Hardesty have created a unique dining experience for St. Louis inspired by Crespo’s Filipino roots. The pair’s food truck favorites lost nothing in translation when they opened a brick and mortar off South Grand Boulevard last year. Sweet, spicy and savory flavors from the Philippines all play nice in new and old dishes. If the unfamiliar cuisine seems like dangerous territory, don’t retreat. The staff is friendly and quick with recommendations and, really, there’s no wrong order on the generously portioned menu.

THE WANDERING/FLYING PIG For your first skirmish, try a classic. The Wandering Pig sees slow-roasted shredded pork plopped on a pile of steamed local jasmine rice, painted with sweet and spicy zigzags of hoisin, Sriracha and calamansi sauces.

Topped with crunchy black sesame seeds, fried garlic and a shower of scallions, no bite was boring. Add a creamy one-hour egg, and you’ve got The Flying Pig, which was even better. Both can be served as a burrito for those who prefer hand-to-mouth combat.

CHICKEN ADOBO If you’re not on diplomatic terms with spicy, this crowd favorite is for you. Savory chicken thighs were braised in soy sauce with garlic, bay leaves, and vinegar and served over steamed rice drenched in sauce. Also available as a burrito, these staple Filipino flavors had powerful umami depth. If you can’t decide between the chicken adobo or The Flying Pig, get both in the 800-Pound Guerrilla, which offers them side by side in one bowl. Pro tip: Mixing can’t hurt.

APORKALYPSE NOW REDUX Add some crunch to your lunch. A mound of thick house-made tortilla chips was lavished with spicy chile-braised pulled pork, chunks of fried pork belly, serrano peppers and atchara (pickled papaya), all topped with a “cheese” sauce made from silken tofu and crab fat. That may sound gross, but it was thick in a good way, like a weird, velvety cheese sauce with an aioli vibe.

BELLY OF THE BEAST Adventurous diners should get into the Belly of the Beast.

Artfully braised, perfectly tender pork belly is topped with a fish sauce and orangechile glaze and served atop a bed of super-hydrated coconut milk rice. The delicate interplay of sticky-sweet with pops of citrus served up an indulgent lunch experience.

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800-pound guerrilla

try to finish it – take the leftovers home to enjoy again.

IRON MANOK Manok means chicken in Filipino, but the tower of crispy fried chicken made translation unnecessary.

Served with chile-braised cabbage, the chicken was topped with two sauces for an all-out flavor assault: mango bangoong (made with mango puree, shrimp paste, chile flakes and vinegar) and a spicy hoisin. My advice for the Iron Manok: Don’t

SIDES AND STARTERS Spam fries were a favorite: expertly cooked, dusted in ginger and dipped in banana ketchup. Don’t let the word Spam scare you. And the vegetable ukoy fritter almost dissolved on the tongue.

Finally, the longaniza corn dog is a ration from heaven.

The sweet and spicy Filipino sausage is also battered and fried in true street food fashion. These could be sold at a fancy restaurant for double the cost.

THE DOWNSIDE Service was slow, so plan to take your full lunch hour.

Looking around the dining room there was more than one person sitting with water and staring at their phone.

However, everything is made from scratch that day. Time is a small surcharge for the affordable, exceptional food.

Guerrilla Street Food 3559 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.529.1328, guerrillastreetfood.com September 2016

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nightlife

reviews

Mission Taco Joint

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE

to choose an assortment, but I’ve pared the menu to two favorites: the fried Baja fish and the beef brisket birria. Wrapped in a homemade corn tortilla, the lightly battered white fish is layered with a modest amount of shredded Mission cabbage, pico de gallo, Taco Joint queso fresco and the 398 N. Euclid true star: a spicy, smooth Ave., St. Louis, chipotle aioli. The slow314.930.2955, roasted beef brisket is missiontacojoint.com mouthwateringly moist, topped with chunks of pork belly carnitas and finished with a one-two punch of avocado and a drizzle of fiery arbol sauce. These are so good I no longer waste time glancing at the rest of the menu.

I

s Mission Taco Joint a cantina with incredible grub or a taqueria with stellar drinks? Maybe it’s both. It doesn’t really matter – I’m happy to keep returning to debate the answer.

The Crowd At 10 p.m. any Friday, the pubs on the north end of Euclid Avenue in the Central West End are probably pretty quiet. The newest Mission location in the former Gringo space, on the other hand, has already run out of outdoor seating, and room at the bar is becoming scarce. It’s loud and getting louder. The dinner crowd has mostly filed out, leaving newly wiped tables for the next shift of patrons – a mix of young professionals and grad student-types. The late-night happy hour caters to chatty groups of friends, some couples and a healthy smattering of college kids who throw back shots, hunch over their phones and slip outside for the occasional smoke.

The Space A giant L-shaped metaltopped bar dominates the sprawling room.

September 2016

Aside from a mural of Mexican wrestlers with lightning-bolted lucha libre masks, the walls are adorned with bright blue paint. Silly luchadores notwithstanding, Mission is a smartly dressed, minimalist space far from a south-of-the-border caricature. The main room is awash in high-glossed wood surfaces that mix with metal chairs and an old tinned ceiling for an open, modern feel. On warm nights, diners spill onto a patio tight with tables and bright red metal chairs.

The Food “Drunk food” has too many negative connotations. Let’s say Mission Taco has great drinking food, perfected at its locations in Soulard and The Loop. Yes, you’ll have to fork over $3 for chips and salsa, but the spicy verde that came with my order was a lick-the-plate-clean kind of sauce well worth the price. The best time to quell taco urges is after 10 p.m., when the late-night happy hour drops all tacos to $2 a pop, since these corn-wrapped beauties aren’t exactly enormous. It’s fun

The Drinks Mission’s bar staff is as busy as its kitchen, turning out layered, complex cocktails. Cheap, syrupy premix margaritas are thankfully absent. A few sips from the $10 top-shelf Maestro Margarita, doused with Maestro Dobel tequila, were enough to get over any sticker shock. Avoid The Zombie, which the menu playfully touts as limited to two per person. The rum-centric drink wasn’t all that potent and was drowned in cinnamon, which, once lit on fire, fell into the concoction, making more of a disappointing winter drink rather than the warm weather treat that it should be. Much more satisfying was the smoky Oaxacan Firing Squad, a mix of mezcal, grenadine, fresh lime and bitters that started off strong and became smoother with every fantastic sip. The beer list was impressive and wide ranging, but not too intimidating. Even better news for after-hours guests, the late-night happy hour offers $2 shots of Four Roses bourbon and Lunazul Reposado tequila to wash down tacos from 10 p.m. till lights out.

The Bottom Line Casual enough for a night out with your buddies but smart enough for a romantic evening on the town, Mission Taco’s newest outpost in the Central West End achieves what its predecessor Gringo could not: a bumping late-night cantina worthy of many a return trip.

ORDER IT: Mission Taco Joint

From top, beef brisket birria and the fried Baja fish tacos from Mission Taco Joint.

From left, sip on a mezcalbased Oaxacan Firing Squad or top-shelf Maestro Margarita.

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dine

& drink

lion's tail cocktail made with st. elizabeth allspice dram

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Add some drama to your favorite cocktail with a little St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, aka pimento dram.

The liqueur packs a ton of allspice and clove flavor with cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper TED AND JAMIE undertones. Add it to KILGORE a Lion’s Tail: Combine USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart 2 ounces bourbon, ½ and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House ounce Allspice Dram, ½ ounce lime juice, ¼ ounce simple syrup and a dash Angostura bitters in an ice-filled shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. $30. Parker’s Table, parkerstable.com September 2016

I paired the 2015 J Vineyards California Pinot Gris with corn gazpacho at a recent Sauce Magazine cooking GLENN BARDGETT class at Dierbergs.

Member of the Missouri Wine Nailed it! A blend and Grape Board and wine of pinot gris director at Annie Gunn’s grapes from four California regions, this juicy dry white’s melon, grapefruit and tropical notes were balanced with enough crisp acidity to make the gazpacho do a happy dance. $16.

Dierbergs, Des Peres, dierbergs.com

To me, September means fresh produce, cool evenings and patio dining. This year, it also means French beer, since I’ll pair those things with Prairie Artisan Ales’ Prairie-Vous Francais.

KATIE HERRERA The low-ABV farmhouse Co-founder of Femme ale is hopped with Saaz Ferment and manager at The Side Project Cellar and bottle-conditioned with Brett Bruxellensis.

Soft notes of pineapple, black pepper and barnyard funk dance on the nose, while a clean bitterness and delicate banana and baking spice notes consume the palate. $9. Craft Beer Cellar, craftbeercellar.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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WINE

11 foolproof wine lists

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

Ordering wine can be a gamble. It’s easy to drop $100 dollars on a teethstaining disappointment, but that doesn’t mean you should opt for the cheapest pinot every time you go out. We talked to Reeds American Table beverage director and Food & Wine’s 2016 Sommelier of the Year Andrey Ivanov about the St. Louis restaurants with reliable lists and helpful sommeliers. Just close your eyes and point at the wine list in these 11 oenophile hotspots.

Lucas Park Grille Next time you’re at this downtown hotspot, skip the vodka tonic and ask for the wine list, which boasts an affordable selection of reliable bottles.

“Sommelier Rich Ross has a great palate and ‘wine brain,’” Ivanov said. “He has an affinity for rare wines that are not readily available elsewhere.” 1234 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.7770, lucasparkgrille.com

PHOTO PHOTOS

BY CARMEN

BY DAVE TROESSER MOORE

Eleven Eleven Mississippi This Lafayette Square restaurant has built a decade-long relationship with the wineries on its list, which includes some of the coolest Italian whites in town.

Ivanov suggested the crisp Vinchio Vaglio Serra Arneis white and Bonotto Delle Tezze Roboso red. 1111 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.9999, 1111-m.com Truffles The list is 88 pages long, but that’s where wine director Aleksandar Jovanovic comes in. “He’s good at describing wines and helping you choose the right one,” Ivanov said. Opt for a bottle from Slovenia, Croatia or Macedonia. “Aleks knows more about wines from the Balkans than anyone else in town.” 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com

eleven eleven mississippi wine director, sommelier scott gaghan; below, lucas park grille wine director, sommelier rich ross

Blood & Sand Membership has its privileges, including access to niche bottles with surprisingly reasonable price tags. Domestic varieties and smallproduction wines from Oregon are the highlight here. 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com

list of by-the-glass pours on the chalkboard takes liberties, especially with its sparkling wine. “It’s one of the few places where the by-the-glass menu is progressive and interesting,” said Ivanov. “There’s nothing on there I wouldn’t want.” 16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, 314.875.9373, louieswinedive.com

Bar Italia Ristorante There are only nine wines on the regular menu.

Ask for the reserved menu where you’ll find varieties that have cellared at the restaurant for a lifetime. “It’s a hidden trove of Italian wines,” said Ivanov. “Some bottles have been cellaring since the 1980s and 1990s.” 13 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7010, baritaliastl.com

Elaia The wine list here focuses on playing well with food, so Ivanov suggested springing for the wine pairing.

“The wines are specifically brought in for each dish,” he said. “They do pairings better than anyone else.” If you’d rather sip on a glass or two, look for unique offerings like small-production Champagne and rustic orange wine. 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.1088, elaiastl.com

Balaban’s The Chesterfield restaurant and wine bar has more than 650 selections that it’s been building for 44 years, plus a retail shop and frequent wine dinners. Add to that Wine Spectator awards spanning decades, and you know you’re in safe hands. 1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.449.6700, balabanswine.com

Parigi French, Italian and American wines shine at Parigi in Clayton. “Look for something classic from France and America,” said Ivanov. “The Italian wines are more interesting and off the beaten path.” 8025 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, 314.899.9767, parigistl.com

Louie’s Wine Dive Clayton’s new wine bar is part of a small chain, so its bottle list adheres to company regulations, but the

Annie Gunn’s An area landmark since 1937, Annie Gunn’s has been a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist for

Outstanding Wine Service in 2011 and for Outstanding Wine Program in 2015. Its 900-bottle list features a wide variety of regions and styles. Seek guidance from wine director Glenn Bardgett, who’s been growing the wine program for 16 years. 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, anniegunns.com Reeds American Table Named one of the 100 best wine restaurants in America by Wine Enthusiast this year, the wine list at Reeds includes many trendy and unusual regions. With Ivanov at the helm, this is the place to go outside your comfort zone and try something new.

7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

VEGETIZE IT

Sweet potato nuggets

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS

BY CARMEN TROESSER

L

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eftovers have their own life cycle in my kitchen.

Always presented with grand enthusiasm, usually received with mild disappointment, they shuffle from refrigerator to table and back again until the rules of food safety and family harmony deliver them to the dumpster.

Baked sweet potatoes take zero effort, but they become particularly sad when left over. Desperate to make a more tempting second day dish, I sought inspiration from the food group that’s highest on my personal pyramid: hors d’oeuvres.

September 2016

My fondness for finger foods began in childhood, when I thought chicken nuggets were as great as the toy that accompanied them. If I could make healthier, chicken-free nuggets using leftover veggies, I’d have a cyclebreaking option that cuts down on waste and is worthy of the fancy food name, croquettes.

Sweet potatoes are a little gummy when mashed, so I threw in breadcrumbs, corn and diced carrot for texture.

A tablespoon of fresh jalapeno adds kick, but if that’s not your thing, feel free to substitute generous amounts of freshly ground black pepper or red pepper flakes. To keep the sweet potato from tasting exactly the same as the night before, I added ras al-hanout, a North African spice blend with warm cinnamon, black pepper and cloves.

You can also try garam masala or your favorite curry powder instead.

Next, I needed to ensure my croquettes would hold their shape when dipped in a crusty coating and cooked. Beaten raw egg makes excellent glue, unless you happen to be vegan or someone put the empty egg carton back in the fridge. I tried ground flax seeds and egg replacer, both of which failed to hold the ingredients together. Instead, the best non-egg binder turned out to be an overnight stay in the refrigerator.

Test batches that were deep-fried yielded a delightful combination of

crispy outside and tender inside, but it isn’t particularly healthy and left my hair smelling like cooking oil. Baking the patties reduced their calorie count, but made them very dry. My Goldilocks solution was to pan-fry the croquettes, which meant using slightly more oil than sauteeing, but less than an all-out deep-fry. The result: fun, flavorful sweet potato bites that will leave nothing left over for the next day.

SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES 2 DOZEN 1 Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for cooking ¼ cup finely diced carrots ½ cup finely diced white onion 1 Tbsp. finely diced fresh jalapeno, seeds and pith removed 1 tsp. coriander 1 tsp. minced garlic 1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided ¼ tsp. ras al-hanout spice blend, plus more to taste ¼ tsp. turmeric 2 packed cups baked sweet potato, skins removed (about 1½ lbs. potatoes) ½ cup cooked white corn kernels ¼ cup plain breadcrumbs ½ cup flour ½ cup whole milk or soy milk

½ cup cornmeal ½ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 cup creme fraiche or vegan sour cream 2 Tbsp. fresh dill, finely chopped 1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice • In a medium skillet over mediumhigh heat, warm 1 tablespoon canola oil and saute the carrots 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the jalapeno and saute 1 minute.

Reduce the heat to low and add the coriander, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, ras al-hanout and turmeric. Saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Remove from heat. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool to room temperature.

• Add the sweet potato, corn and plain breadcrumbs to the bowl and mix until well-combined. Taste and adjust seasonings, cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

• Line up 3 small bowls; add the flour to the first, the milk to the second, and combine the cornmeal, panko, black pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt in the third. Form a 1-inch ball of cold sweet potato mixture, then lightly flatten to create a patty. Dredge the patty in the flour, dip it in the milk, then coat it with the cornmeal mixture and move it to a plate. Repeat with the remaining sweet potato mixture.

• In a skillet over medium-high heat,

warm 2 tablespoons canola oil.

Working in batches, arrange the patties in a single layer and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until browned on the bottom. Flip, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook another 2 to 3 minutes, until the other side is browned. Transfer the croquettes to a paper towel-lined plate. Wipe out the skillet with another paper towel, add another 2 tablespoons canola oil and repeat the process until all the croquettes are cooked.

• In a small bowl, combine the creme fraiche, dill and lemon juice. Serve on the side as a dip.

BUY IT Ras al-hanout spice mix $3. Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com

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September 2016

MAKE THIS PORK TENDERLOIN WITH GRAPES AND FENNEL ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES

Enough with summer; bring on autumn flavors. Slice MAKE THIS a 1-pound pork tenderloin into 1-inch medallions and season with 1 tablespoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup chicken stock and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and set aside. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and sear the pork medallions 2 minutes. Flip and add 2 cups halved red grapes, ½ cup thinly sliced fennel and ¼ cup thinly sliced shallot. Cover and cook 1 to 2 minutes, then add the stock mixture. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook 5 to 7 minutes, until the pork and fennel are cooked through and the sauce begins to thicken. Top with 1 tablespoon orange zest before serving. – Dee Ryan

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

This dish is extremely versatile - add other fall flavors like chopped apples, dried fruit, or fresh herbs like rosemary, tarragon or oregano.

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compiled by meera nagarajan p h o t o s b y g r e g r a n n e l l s // l e t t e r i n g b y v i d h y a n a g a r a j a n

Salads don’t have to be dull diet meals. Union Loafers’ chef Brian Lagerstrom has proved they can be glorious, building his salads like any composed dish: with a balance of sweet, salt, fat, acid and textures, calibrating the frequency of those elements so you’re surprised from bite to bite. Be gone, bagged mixed greens with bottled ranch dressing!

Lagerstrom shared six recipes so you never have to eat a sad salad again.

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brian lagerstrom

Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery, 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com September 2016

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SUMMER SALAD RECIPE ON P. 38

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September 2016

R E C I P E S Courtesy of Union Loafers’ Brian Lagerstrom

LITTLE GEM SALAD 4 TO 6 SERVINGS This salad depends on the balance between sweet pickled onion and pops of fresh herbs. You’ll want to dip everything you own into the leftover dressing.

5 heads bibb or other butter lettuce, torn into small pieces 2 hearts of romaine, chopped 1 cup buttermilk dressing (recipe follows) ¹∕³ cup pickled shallots (recipe follows) ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. chopped chervil ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. chopped chives ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. chopped dill ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley 3 Tbsp. toasted panko breadcrumbs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • In a large bowl, toss all the ingredients until the salad is evenly coated in dressing.

BUTTERMILK DRESSING 3 CUPS ¾ cup buttermilk ½ cup sour cream 3 egg yolks 1 shallot, roughly chopped 1 garlic clove 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 tsp. kosher salt 2½ cups canola oil • In a blender, combine the buttermilk, sour cream, egg yolks, shallot, garlic, lemon juice and salt on high 20 to 30 seconds.

• With the blender running on medium speed, stream in the oil until emulsified.

• The remaining dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.

September 2016

PICKLED SHALLOTS 2 CUPS 8 to 10 shallots 1¹∕³ cups distilled white vinegar ¹∕³ cup sugar 1¹∕³ cups water 1 tsp. kosher salt • Use a mandoline or knife to thinly slice the shallots. Place them in a colander, rinse thoroughly and drain. Place in a small glass bowl and set aside.

• In a medium saucepan, bring the vinegar, sugar, water and salt to a boil over high heat until the sugar dissolves.

• Pour the vinegar mixture over the shallots and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Pickles will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 3 months.

GRAIN SALAD

rehydrated, about 15 minutes.

Drain and set aside.

• To assemble the salad, toss the barley, pickled raisins, kale, olive oil, lemon juice and the remaining pinch of salt in a large bowl.

• Add the parsley-almond pesto and toss until evenly coated.

• Divide the salad among serving plates and top liberally with the almonds, feta cheese and additional pesto.

PARSLEY-ALMOND PESTO 3 CUPS 1 cup grated pecorino cheese 1 cup olive oil 1 cup whole parsley leaves with tender stems 2 shallots, roughly chopped ¾ cup toasted almonds ½ cup basil leaves 1½ Tbsp. lemon juice 1 tsp. kosher salt

4 TO 6 SERVINGS 3 cups pearled barley 2 Tbsp. plus a pinch of kosher salt, divided 1 cup distilled white vinegar ¼ cup golden raisins 1 bunch kale, stems removed and thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 1 cup parsley-almond pesto, plus more to taste (recipe follows) 1 cup chopped toasted, salted almonds, plus more for garnish 1 cup feta cheese, crumbled • Fill a large pot with water, the barley and 2 tablespoons salt and bring to a boil over high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring every 5 minutes until the barley is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain any excess water and refrigerate until cool.

• Meanwhile, combine the vinegar and raisins in a small bowl and soak until the raisins are slightly

• In the bowl of a food processor, pulse all the ingredients until wellcombined.

• The remaining pesto will keep, covered and refrigerated, 1 day.

ITALIAN SALAD 4 TO 6 SERVINGS This salad wakes up your appetite for pizza or lasagna with hits of sour, salt and crunch.

3 hearts of romaine, chopped 1 bulb fennel, thinly sliced 1 12-oz. can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed ½ cup pitted picholine olives, halved, plus more to taste ¹∕³ cup pickled peppers (recipe follows) 4 oz. mozzarella pearls 3 to 4 oz. Italian vinaigrette (recipe follows) saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Pickles will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 3 months.

2 to 3 sprigs fresh parsley 2 to 3 large pinches of grated Parmesan or romano cheese, plus more to taste • In a large bowl, toss all the ingredients until the salad is evenly coated in the dressing.

Season to taste with more olives and cheese, if desired.

ITALIAN VINAIGRETTE 3 CUPS ¹∕³ cup distilled white vinegar 2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar 1 small shallot 1 small garlic clove 2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 Tbsp. chopped red bell pepper 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste Pinch of dried oregano Pinch of dried basil Pinch of red pepper flakes Pinch of freshly ground black pepper 1½ cups canola oil • In a blender, combine the white vinegar, Champagne vinegar, shallot, garlic, mustard, bell pepper, sugar, salt, oregano, basil, red pepper flakes and black pepper on high 20 to 30 seconds.

• With the blender running on medium speed, stream in the oil until emulsified. Season to taste with salt.

• The remaining dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.

PICKLED PEPPERS 3 CUPS 10 banana peppers, stems removed 1¹∕³ cups distilled white vinegar 1¹∕³ cups water ¹∕³ cup sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt • Cut the peppers into 1∕8 -inch coins and place in a medium glass bowl.

• In a medium saucepan, bring the vinegar, water, sugar and salt to a boil over high heat until the sugar dissolves.

• Pour the vinegar mixture over the peppers and let cool to

SUMMER SALAD 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 2 pickling cucumbers, trimmed 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved 3 ears of corn, kernels removed Pinch of kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 heads frisee, chopped ½ lb. arugula 1 cup Very Simple Vinaigrette (recipe follows) ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves ½ cup shaved ricotta salata • Use a mandoline or knife to thinly slice the cucumbers and place them in a large bowl. Toss with the tomatoes, corn and salt.

• Add the frisee, arugula, vinaigrette and cilantro and toss. Season to taste with salt, then top with the ricotta salata.

VERY SIMPLE VINAIGRETTE 3 CUPS ¹∕³ cup distilled white vinegar 2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar 1 shallot, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 1½ cups canola oil • In a blender, combine the white vinegar, Champagne vinegar, shallot, mustard, sugar and salt.

• With the blender running on medium speed, stream in the oil until emulsified.

• The remaining dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.

SPRING SALAD 4 TO 6 SERVINGS The ingredients being ripe in my backyard garden on the same day originally inspired this simple salad.

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6 breakfast radishes 4 heads bibb or other butter lettuce, torn into small pieces 2 cups snap peas, strings removed and thinly sliced on the bias 1 cup pea shoots (optional) ¹∕³ cup chopped fresh mint ¹∕³ cup chopped fresh parsley ½ cup lemon vinaigrette, plus more to taste (recipe follows) Pinch of kosher salt 1 Tbsp. grated pecorino • Use a mandoline or knife to thinly slice the radishes. Place them in a large bowl with the lettuce, snap peas, pea shoots (if desired), mint and parsley.

Toss with the lemon vinaigrette and salt. Let sit 5 minutes.

Sprinkle with the pecorino before serving.

LEMON VINAIGRETTE 2 CUPS 1 cup lemon juice 1 cup olive oil Pinch of kosher salt

beets with the salt and oil. Wrap each in foil and bake 40 to 45 minutes, until a paring knife can easily pierce the beet. Let cool in the foil.

• Remove the foil and peel the beets using a paper towel or peeler.

Chop into bite-size pieces and place in a medium bowl with ½ cup vinaigrette.

• In a large bowl, combine the beets, endive, radicchio, cheese, the remaining 1 cup vinaigrette and pecans and toss. Season to taste, adding more nuts and cheese if desired.

CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE 3 CUPS ½ cup Champagne vinegar 1 small shallot, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 tsp. kosher salt 1½ cups vegetable oil

• Combine all the ingredients in a clean jar with a lid. Seal and shake to emulsify. Refrigerate until ready to use.

• The remaining dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.

• In a blender, pulse the vinegar, shallot, sugar, mustard and salt to combine.

• With the blender running on medium speed, stream in the oil until emulsified. Season to taste with salt.

• The remaining dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.

BEET SALAD

CANDIED PECANS

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

ABOUT ½ CUP

4 medium beets, preferably Chioggia 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1½ cups Champagne vinaigrette, divided (recipe follows) 2 heads Belgian endive, cored and chopped into coins 2 heads radicchio, chopped 1 cup blue cheese crumbles, plus more to taste ½ cup chopped candied pecans, plus more to taste (recipe follows)

1 egg white ½ cup sugar Pinch of salt ½ cup chopped pecans

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

• In a large mixing bowl, toss the

• Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

• In a medium bowl, whip the egg white until lightly frothy, about 20 seconds. Fold in the sugar and salt until dissolved. Add the pecans and toss to combine.

• Spread the pecans on a baking sheet in an even layer. Bake 10 minutes, then stir and bake another 15 minutes. Let cool.

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LITTLE GEM SALAD RECIPE ON P. 37

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THE COOLEST PLACES TO EAT f r o m d i s h e s to d e c o r , t h e s e 4 r e stau r a n t s a r e c h i c a f by maggie pearson | photos by jonathan gayman

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BAR LES FR ÈR ES

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T HE BHIVE AT BR EN N AN ' S

F R A M I N G T H E C O M P U L S O R Y R I OT O F C O C K TA I L S , AT T E N T I V E S E R V I C E A N D S T R A N G E T H I N G S D O N E TO V E G E TA B L E S AT A N Y G O O D R E S TA U R A N T A R E E L E M E N T S – L AYO U T, L I G H T I N G , D I N – T H AT S E T T H E T E M P O F R O M T H E D O O R TO T H E B I L L . C O M B I N I N G T H E S E I M P E R C E P T I B L E S TO C R E AT E A C O O L S PAC E I S N O S M A L L F E AT. L U C K I LY, S T. LO U I S I S B O O M I N G W I T H D E S I G N E R S , A R T I S T S A N D S TA R T U P S , I N C R E A S I N G D E M A N D F O R H I P U R B A N P L E A S U R E S . R E S TA U R A N T O W N E R S A R E N ’ T S TO P P I N G W I T H R E C L A I M E D W O O D A N D H A N G I N G E D I S O N B U L B S – T H E Y ’ R E I N C O R P O R AT I N G T R O P I C A L P L A N T S TO C R E AT E P R I VAC Y A N D N I X I N G T H E O N C E R E Q U I S I T E F L AT- S C R E E N T V S ( C A R D I N A L S G A M E S B E DA M N E D ! ) . H E R E , W E C O L L E C T E D S O M E O F S T. LO U I S’ M O S T E Y E - C ATC H I N G R E S TA U R A N T S , W H E R E D E S I G N A N D AT M O S P H E R E A R E E V E R Y B I T A S E XC I T I N G A N D C O N S I D E R E D A S T H E F O O D. 44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2016

BAR LES FRÈRES 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880, barlesfreres.net Bar Les Frères epitomizes savoir faire with two small adjoining rooms that inspire endless elegant Old World analogies. Cabinets and shelves are stuffed with books, glowing taper candlesticks, marble busts and objets d’art that would feel at home in an eccentric Parisian apartment. Saffronand chartreuse-colored walls, terrazzo floors and an eclectic collection of portraits give the feeling of dining in a 19th-century Prussian home. A bench outside the bathroom is draped in a real leopard skin – complete with the animal’s tail. When the candles are lit and the evening has rolled well into later hours, a table by the back bookcase is straight out of a scene in War and Peace. Marbletopped tables coupled with upholstered settees invite guests to linger. The only chink in Bar Les Frères’ flawless movie set quality is the din, which can rise above pleasant levels due to soaring ceilings and so many hard surfaces. But you’ll barely notice while enjoying Champagne cocktails with superb blinis and caviar to complete your Catherine the Great experience.

September 2016

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Vista's eponymous ramen. Find out what critic Michael Renner thinks of it on p. 15.

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VISTA RAMEN

THE BHIVE AT BRENNAN’S

2609 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.797.8250, vistaramen.com

4661 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.497.4449, bhive.space

Dark, cozy and patterned tile-clad, the carefully cultivated mood is exactly right in this 34-seat temple of cool. It’s no wonder locals flock to Vista’s enormous 1930s neon sign like hungry, noodle-craving moths. Peanuts, cilantro and fish sauce dance to an upbeat soundtrack that makes you feel hip without requiring too much attention, in an Asianinspired menu as fashionable as its surroundings. Dark walls and a soothing blue and green color scheme frame the open kitchen, which is always buzzing with a happy sort of energy. The small space is efficiently outfitted with narrow furniture to avoid feeling cramped, and you won’t be rushed through a meal by the stylish staff. Instagramfamous for its Vista ramen (a rich bowl of lust featuring pork shoulder, scallion, nori and egg) and incessantly changing imaginative small plates, this Cherokee Street staple will continue to be all over your feed. It’s nightlifemeets-noodle shop with a vibe as heady as its broth.

If entering through a dimly lit, marble-clad foyer and up a wrought iron staircase (the likes of which Willy Loman would have dutifully climbed to sales meetings) doesn’t inspire curiosity, check your pulse. Just about every space at Brennan’s is inspired, but The BHIVE is a mastery of eclecticism: romantic and cool, retro and modern. A collaborative workspace by day, event space by night and host to the occasional This Is Not A Restaurant pop-up dinner, The BHIVE uses its historical Central West End building as a canvas for six distinctly designed rooms. Each has a different personality, but all are warm with mantles, locally crafted wood tables and chairs, midcentury-inspired geometric wallpaper and full bookshelves, creating layers of comfort. It’s as if a fashionable building in the West Village opened all its apartments to imbibers, allowing guests to float from one intimate space to another, while the bird’s-eye view of bustling Euclid and Maryland avenues add to the “Am I still in St. Louis?” vibe.

September 2016

STAIR WAY TO T HE BHIVE AT BR ENN AN ' S

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OLIO

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September 2016

OLIO 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.1088, oliostl.com Chic but unfussy, nothing is overwrought here. Original glazed tiles that graced the former Standard Oil filling station still line the walls, a record player scratches out tunes, and on warm evenings, the garage door is flung open to the delight of diners. Its smart seasonal menu and superior wine selection are worth attention (Don’t miss the anchovy-topped egg salad and charred tomato bruschetta.), but details make the memory at Olio: the pretty aperitif served in vintage crystal brought out on a scrolled silver tray, the well-trained staff that understand service is about nuance and privacy, the warm glow of the floor-toceiling windows at night that make you feel like you’re about to enter a hip snow globe.

Technically, this is a casual setting, but it has all the perks of world-class dining. It’s a haiku of a restaurant – urban and sophisticated without being conceited and cold. from left, the egg salad and charred tomato bruschetta September 2016

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stuff to do:

SEPTEMBER

BY K ATHLEEN ADAMS AND CATHERINE KLENE

Midwest WingFest Sept. 2 – 5 to 11 p.m., Sept.

3 – noon to 11 p.m., St. Clair Square Mall, 134 St. Clair Square, Fairview Heights, midwestwingfest.com Head to Fairview Heights for two days of finger-licking fun at the annual Midwest WingFest. Grab a couple wings or other summer eats from more than 20 vendors like WingNutz, The Righteous Pig Bar-BQue, Hotshots and Dandy Inn, then cool things down with margaritas or AnheuserBusch brews. Sign up your flock for Saturday’s Chicken Run 5K or brave the prestigious Wing Eating Contest.

St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party Sept. 10 – 6 to 10 p.m., Lafayette Square Park, St. Louis, 314.231.2537, Facebook: St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party Raise a glass and kick off St. Louis Craft Spirits & Cocktail Celebration at the St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party, featuring area distilleries like Spirits of St. Louis, Pinckney Bend, Still 630, Defiance Whiskey and much more. Purchase tickets to sample full or tasting pours of cocktails, and enjoy food from area vendors like Square One Brewery, SqWire’s and Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery.

Kosher Barbecue Competition Sept. 11 – 2 to 6 p.m., Nusach Hari B’nai Zion, 650 N. Price Road, Olivette, 314.991.2100, nhbz.org St. Louis’ first kosher barbecue battle kicks off at Nusach Hari B’nai Zion. Follow your nose to the

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competition, where up to 10 teams submit their best chicken thighs, turkey, beef ribs and brisket. Whether you keep kosher or just have a weakness for perfectly smoked meat, sample the competitors’ submissions or buy more barbecue from Kohn’s Meat Market, then stick around to find out which team is crowned the champion. While you snack, enjoy beer samples from Shmaltz Brewing Co.

Tea Blending Class Sept. 12 – 7 to 8:15 p.m., The London Tea Room, 3128 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.241.6556, thelondontearoom.com There’s more to tea than dropping bags into hot water. Learn the art and science of blending different herbs and aromatics to create the perfect cup of comfort. The London Tea Room’s Jackie James teaches attendees the basics behind blending, then lets them try their own and take home 2 ounces of their custom creations.

Reserve your spot online at dabble.co.

HOP in the City Sept. 17 – noon to 9 p.m., Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.2337, schlafly. com/HOP Get a rare taste of music paired with nearly 50 brews from St. Louis’ biggest craft beer producer at Schlafly’s HOP in the City. Purchase tasting tickets to gulp down unlimited samples of beer ranging from Schlafly’s experimental Hop Trials to a watermelon lager to that famous pumpkin ale.

Lot tickets allow access to the event and the option to purchase full pours of beer and pub fare. Tickets available online.

September 2016

End of Summer Luau Sept. 23 – 8 p.m. to 2 a.m., Three Sixty, Hilton at the Ballpark, 1 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.241.8439, 360-stl.com Celebrate a successful summer Hawaiian-style at Three Sixty’s End of Summer Luau. Hula dancers, fire breathers and a succulent pig roast will help you transition into the cooler months. In addition to roast pork, enjoy a Hawaiian buffet featuring ceviche, empanadas, yucca fritters and eight other tropical dishes. Signature cocktails and a full bar will be available for your imbibing needs. The event is free before 10 p.m. with a $10 cover after.

sponsored events Food Truck Friday

the 10-day event. A full list of participating restaurants is available online.

Downtown Restaurant Week Sept. 19 to 25, participating restaurants, St. Louis, downtownrestaurantweek.net More than 20 downtown restaurants will roll out the red carpet for diners during Downtown Restaurant Week. Enjoy $25 or $35 three-course meals from places like Cielo, Hiro Asian Kitchen, Ruth’s Chris and more, and tack on a donation to your bill to benefit Operation Food Search. A full list of restaurants is available online.

Just Five: From Sauce Magazine Sept. 19 – 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Dierbergs, 1080 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0400, dierbergs.com/school Join Sauce contributing writer Dee Ryan, who regularly pens Make This, for her cooking class based on her online column, Just Five.

Learn to make mouthwatering dishes like buttermilk pork chops, fried green tomato BLTs, carrot jam, PB&J cookies and more, all with just five key ingredients in each recipe.

Seating is limited; reserve your spot online.

Tacorita Showdown

Sept. 9 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com There are only two chances left to enjoy Food Truck Friday; don’t miss out! This month, 22 trucks pull up to Tower Grove Park, including Frankly Sausages, Slice of the Hill and Smokin’ Monkey. Sip on the latest offerings from 4 Hands, Urban Chestnut or The Porch, and rock out to the Cree Rider Band.

Sept. 22 – 5 to 9 p.m., St. Louis Public Radio, UMSL at Grand Center, 3651 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, stlpublicradio. org/kitchensink Eight restaurants are going head-to-head in a taco and tequila-fueled battle at the Public Media Commons, and you’re the judge.

Sample taco creations and margaritas from Amigo’s Cantina, Mission Taco Joint, Seoul Taco, Cha Cha Chow, Club Taco, Maya Café, Yo! Salsa and Taco Circus, then vote for your favorite. Tickets available online.

VIP Tasting Experience

Q in The Lou

Sept. 15 – 6 to 9 p.m., Union Station, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, randallstastingexpo.brownpapertickets.com Raise a glass at Randall’s VIP Tasting experience. Representatives from suppliers around the world will be on hand to offer tastings of spirits, wines and beers, and attendees can try a sample of hard-to-find products like The Macallan Rare Cask and Avion Reserva 44 Extra Añejo. Tickets available online.

Sept. 23 – 4 to 10 p.m., Sept. 24 – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sept 25 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Soldiers’ Memorial, St. Louis, qinthelou.com Follow the smell of wood smoke to Soldiers’ Memorial, where Q in The Lou returns to downtown St. Louis. Enjoy one of St. Louis’ favorite cuisines with hometown pitmasters like Pappy’s Smokehouse, Sugarfire Smoke House and Salt & Smoke, as well as six nationally recognized pitmasters like Scott Roberts of Salt Lick Bar-B-Que.

Savor Ed/Glen Restaurant Week

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market

Sept. 16 to 25, participating restaurants, Edwardsville and Glen Carbon, Facebook: Ed/Glen Restaurant Week Explore nearly two dozen Edwardsville and Glen Carbon eateries during their first restaurant week. Restaurants like Cleveland-Heath, Doc’s Smokehouse, Sugo’s Spaghetteria and Gulf Shores Restaurant & Grill offer $10 lunch specials, $25 dinners for two or $25 signature dinners during

Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Harvest season has arrived, and the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market is bursting with fresh produce. Show up early to enjoy free yoga and qi gong classes, then take a stroll to select the best peppers from Double Star Farms, cheese from Baetje Farms and tomatoes from Three Rivers Community Farm.

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WHAT I DO

Dan Brewer You may not know Dan Brewer’s name, but you’ve seen his Missouri-sourced tofu on dishes from Revel Kitchen to Mission Taco Joint. However, producing Mofu is only part of his resume. His love of art, food and nutrition came together when he became a full-time chef-instructor in the Department of Nutrition and Dietetics at Saint Louis University, where he pushes his students to recognize not only the nutritional breakdown of food, but also the artistry.

– Catherine Klene

First time making tofu “(In grad school), I ended up having the research question, ‘What would global flavors be like in St. Louis if we were to be exclusively local?’ so we only use local ingredients. … (When we made tofu), we were watching YouTube videos from China and (a friend) was translating for me because we couldn’t find any good information on how to make tofu here.”

From art classes to the kitchen “Once I got into food, I felt like that was my medium. It’s what I understand and what I can speak with. … (When I was a kid) I didn’t understand what food was or what I wanted it to be. Fine dining to me was going to brunch at the Adam’s Mark Hotel downtown, shit people don’t even do anymore.”

Playing with his food “I feel like I’m more of a chef than a tofu manufacturer. I think my work at SLU really influences my business. It’s like a studio for me to do all these things and I do it with students and share it with them. We’ve been fermenting cantaloupe (in crème fraiche). ... It (tasted) kind of cheesy. The flavor is very concentrated, like cantaloupe times 10.”

On not wanting to be a personal chef “I’m not good at motivating people. Getting people to make lifestyle changes – that’s the kind of work I was doing initially – I had a really hard time being patient. I was like, ‘Why aren’t you motivated? Just make a decision.’”

Opening minds “So many (college students’) thought processes and belief systems are based off what their parents raised them to believe. I feel like my job isn’t to coerce them away from that, but to open their eyes to what else exists in the world.

I take that really seriously. …

And I do that through food.”

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Mofu tofu: $5.

Jay International Foods, 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.2552, Facebook: Jay International Foods

Mofu, wearemofu.com

September 2016

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

Academic freedom “(SLU) is not a traditional culinary school, so its not as regimented. There’s more room for philosophical approaches to examining things.”

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brian lagerstrom of union loafers makes a mean salad, p. 34

GET THAT GREEN

6 salads you need in your life

GUIDE TO DRINKING (FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER)

R E V I E W VISTA R AMEN

WINE LISTS

P. 15

P. 27

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

September 2016

11 IDIOT- PROOF

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

THE COOLEST PL AC E S TO E AT P. 42 FREE, SEPTEMBER 2016

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the importance of being contrary and other vermouth cocktails, p. 28

GUIDE TO

DRINKING LOUIS’2016 INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY GuideST. to Drinking

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publisher’s perspective

CHEERS TO NEW CRAFT COCKTAILS WITH OLDSCHOOL EMPHASIS.

Our craft cocktail scene also reflects that sensibility.

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Masterful bartenders execute and reinterpret classic concoctions with originality and flair, showing a new interest in vintage liqueurs and amari (read more about bitter bottles on p. 32), vermouth-centric cocktails and my personal favorite, aperitifs.

I’ve been smitten with the European drink-before-dinner tradition since I was introduced to Lillet Blanc while working at Fio’s la Forchette 17 years ago.

Fortified wines and cocktails intended to stimulate digestion and prime the palate before dinner are being reinvented with Midwestern panache by accomplished bartenders like

Planter’s House’s Ted Kilgore and Randolfi’s Jeffery Moll.

The dedicated aperitif menu at Planter’s House and long list of bottles at Randolif’s are a sure sign that vermouth is no longer a mere additive in cocktails reserved for the elite at stodgy establishments. Learn more about how the tradition has matured, like so many cocktails, in masterful, modern hands, while maintaining a classic allure in “Hold the Gin: Vermouth Makes a Comeback” on p. 28.

Our ninth annual Guide to Drinking highlights the thoughtful and creative professionals who value old-school underdogs like

vermouth, Czech Pilsners (p.

8) and Portuguese wine (p. 10) as much as we do. They help ensure that our city is a place where culture and good taste meet inclusion and accessibility.

But what is an artist without an audience? Here’s to the readers who meticulously mull over each ingredient on the drink menu, who sip wisely and patronize the special group of talented artisans continuing to distinguish our city and culinary community.

Cheers,

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

While pedaling my Schwinn Stingray recently, I realized I never quite outgrew a fondness for old school. I am in good company – balancing the design appeal, vibe and rituals of past eras with contemporary style is something St. Louis does particularly well. From historic home renovations to the refined, vintage ambiance in familiar haunts like Demun Oyster Bar, Small Batch and the four restaurants featured in “The Coolest Places to Eat” (flip to p. 42 in the main issue): Bar Les Frères, The BHIVE at Brennan’s, Olio and Vista Ramen.

Allyson Mace Founder and publisher

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GUIDE TO DRINKING EDITION

BY HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE, TIFFANY LEONG AND KRISTIN SCHULTZ

concept menus Themed drink menus may seem like a marketing gimmick, but one sip of these exclusive cocktails will sell you. Pouring Ribbons in New York has been traveling with a themed menu series, hitting Route 66 and the Silk Road. Closer to home, Olive & Oak’s Gilligan’s Island-themed menu is a boozy voyage that includes a Three-Hour Tour, while sophisticated takes on college drinks were the star on Planter’s House’s spring break menu earlier this year. Recent menus at Blood & Sand have been based off everything from ninth-century Viking trade routes to popular music, and dedicated tiki menus have been found on bar menus from The Libertine to Taste to Retreat Gastropub.

go green

vista ramen’s matcha cocktail

Teatime and happy hour combine in green tea cocktails. Matcha is found in Retreat Gastropub’s Brainfreeze Culprit, which combines the vibrant green tea powder with rum, sherry, pineapple juice, cacao and coconut. We also spied it at Hiro Asian Kitchen, in a matcha mint julep. Green tea-infused vodka gets fresh at Rooster with apple, lime, pineapple and cucumber in the Green With Envy, while Water Street uses it in its Sweet Pea along with snap peas, dandelion liqueur, mint and lemon. Meanwhile, the drink team at Vista Ramen doubles down, using matcha and cold-brewed green tea stems in the gin-based Matcha Gonna Do For Me?

COCKTAIL PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

east-coast vibes

If intensely hopped IPAs blow your palate, head east.

The East Coast IPA is a gentler, juicier IPA best identified by its murky, unfiltered appearance.

Eastern breweries like Alchemist, Trillium and Tree House are known for these less bitter, slightly resinous beers, and up-and-coming hometown brewers are taking notice. Narrow Gauge Brewing, which recently opened inside Cugino’s in Florissant, is making waves with its cloudy, dry-hopped IPAs like Fallen Flag, and forthcoming Rockwell Beer Co. shared a taste of what’s to come at Heritage Festival with Major Key, an 8.5-percent East Coast-West Coast hybrid double IPA.

Guide to Drinking 2016

basque wine

Txakoli, a super dry, acidic white from Spain’s Basque region, has popped up on menus and in shops all summer.

Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery offered the crisp 2014 Xarmant Txakolina with barelythere bubbles on its summer wine list, while Reeds American Table still has two Txakolis to try. 33 Wine Bar has three of these Basque beauties on its September wine list, including Gorrondona Txakolina.

Pick up a bottle of our favorite at The Wine Merchant before picnic season is over. Flip the magazine over to p. 12 to find out why.

taste the rainbow

Brewers are getting experimental, fermenting some of their classic base beers with fresh fruit. Side Project Brewing Co. has released raspberry, peach, blueberry and, most recently, apricot versions of its flagship Saison du Fermier. Over at Perennial Artisan Ales, Funky Wit has seen raspberry-rhubarb, raspberry, apricot and melon varieties, while fans of 2nd Shift Brewing’s Katy can try a veritable fruit salad of blackberry, peach, cherry and raspberry varieties. Looking for an insider taste? Rumor has it that 4 Hands Brewing Co. has quietly released infrequently available strawberry- and blueberryinflected kegs of City Wide at its tasting room. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

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red wine float trip Bartenders are layering on the flavor with red wine floats atop new cocktails. Try it at The Libertine, where a mineral red tops a mixture of rye, lemon juice and lemon verbena-sweet tea in She’s Standing Right Behind You. Order the Full Sneak at The Fortune Teller Bar and watch as ruby port is floated over a blend of whiskey, ginger liqueur, lemon and ginger ale. Red also wine crowns The Juice at Scapegoat Tavern & Courtyard, which shakes up Orangecello (a house-made lemoncello that swaps the citrus), pomegranate vodka, muddled oranges and ginger beer.

as american as applejack Look for this potent fruit-based hooch cropping up by the bushel-full. Eclipse combines applejack with tequila, gin, rum and Benedictine in the 3 Mile Long Island, while The Royale keeps it simple in its Apple Buck, a mix of applejack, lemon juice and ginger beer.

Scapegoat Tavern & Courtyard puts a twist on the whiskey sour, adding applejack to brandy and sour mix in The Monica. ben bauer sips on the she’s standing right behind you cocktail at the libertine

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lager love Once the watery antithesis of the craft beer movement, a new wave of crisp, full-flavored lagers are making a comeback. Brewers are turning to the old-school Eastern European Czech Pilsner to create these low-ABV brews with a characteristic Saaz hop. Look for 2nd Shift’s Technical Ecstasy, Stubborn German Brewing Co.’s recently added Hip Czech Pilsner and seasonally available versions from Square One, Schlafly and The Civil Life.

BEN BAUER PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

taste of the alps

Think of this French Alpine liqueur as Green Chartreuse’s little brother.

With more floral notes, a lower ABV and a lower price tag, St. Louis bartenders are falling in love with Génépy. Drink it on its own as an aperitif or look for cocktails where it plays well with others: Try it paired with the gin-like Bols Genever, Yellow Chartreuse and lime in the Vivre Sa Vie from Olio’s summer menu, or sip an intense lineup of hibiscus, pomegranate and baking spices in the Heatsource cocktail at Retreat Gastropub. The bar at Público lends a Latin vibe with mezcal and lime, along with Licor 43 and Averna in Wee Willy’s Whiskers. Or visit The Whiskey Ring when winter hits for its take on a hot toddy: The Green Lantern made with Génépy, Green Chartreuse and lemon simple syrup.

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leaving port THE NEW PORTUGUESE WINES

BY REBECCA KOENIG

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mericans are rekindling their flame for pours from Portugal, which may surprise those whose first thought was of rich old British guys downing tiny glasses of port on Downton Abbey.

Fortified wines from the Iberian Peninsula have been a favorite of the international elite for centuries – America’s founding fathers toasted the Declaration of Independence with Madeira – but the strong sweet stuff has long since fallen out of favor on this side of the Atlantic.

Rejecting tradition, Portuguese growers are now turning away from those stuffy fortified wines and producing boutique reds in the styles of Bordeaux and northern Spain. The resulting flavors (fruity, dry, full and rich) and affordable price tags have experts like Andrey Ivanov, beverage director at Reeds American Table, head over heels. We talked to Ivanov about what makes these wines worthy of affection and which to look for. You never forget your first love, but thankfully both your tastes can mature.

OLDER THAN THE DOWAGER COUNTESS Portugal boasts one of the world’s oldest appellations, or legally defined regions tied to a particular kind of wine. That would be the Porto, which in the 1750s was named the only place in the world that could make true port.

PORT SHMORT Entering the European Union in 1986 made Portuguese winemakers eligible for grants to modernize vineyard equipment and facilities, and more accessible to the international marketplace. It broke up longstanding port monopolies and increased competition and quality, creating a wave of boutique producers making artisan wines. Today, young winemakers are combining family traditions with innovative techniques, international knowledge and bold marketing to introduce drinkers around the world to the unique qualities of Portugal’s many native grapes and wines.

EXPENSIVE-TASTING CHEAP WINE The quality-for-price ratio in Portuguese wine is on your side. “Try a $10 bottle of wine from France or America and it tastes like red wine – it tastes like $10,” Ivanov said. “Some $10 bottles from Portugal taste like they cost a lot more.”

Guide to Drinking 2016

REGIONS TO REMEMBER The Minho region in northwest Portugal is known as Vinho Verde because it yields those crisp, light whites and rosés that come with a bit of fizz. Surrounded by mountains that prevent extreme weather, Minho’s cool, moderate climate produces the clean flavors that come with a slow and steady ripening. Low in alcohol, high in minerality and usually best enjoyed young, bottles of vinho verde are perfect for summer sipping. The Dão region produces well-balanced white blends and tart reds similar to those from northern Rhone.

Wine from sunny Alentajo is juicy, plush and approachable, while reds from rainy Bairrada are tannic and age well. Along with its traditional ports, the warmer Douro region now produces red wines that Ivanov characterized as “full-bodied, rich and powerful,” comparable to Bordeauxs.

PUT DOWN THE PINOT Bored with merlots and cabernets?

Portuguese grapes offer something new to many Americans. The country doesn’t grow a lot of international favorites, but proudly produces wines made from hundreds of native grape varietals. Look for wines made from Alvarinho white grapes, which are acidic and reminiscent of riesling. Other white grapes include the peachy loureiro, common in vinho verdes, and the floral malvasia, which is a foundation for many white blends. Prized red grape touriga nacional, grown in the Douro and the Dão to make port and dry reds, has robust tannins, and is often blended with other red grapes like the berry-flavored touriga franca.

buy it BROADBENT VINHO VERDE With its modest spritz, this light white wine is refreshing and citrusy. $10.50. 33 Wine Shop & Bar, 1913 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.9463, Facebook: 33wine

2014 LAGAR DE DAREI This crisp, unoaked white blend is a good alternative for pinot grigio lovers. $14. The Vino Gallery, 4701 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5665, thevinogallery.com

ALVARO CASTRO DAC TINTO According to Kara Flaherty of Parker’s Table, this pretty light red wine from the Dão region has notes of roses and tea. $17.

Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

2006 QUINTA DA BOAVISTA TERRAS DE TAVARES Before its release, this floral, fruity red was aged three years in old barrels, then a few more years in the bottle. $30. The Wine Merchant Ltd., 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com

2013 HERDADE DO ESPORÃO ASSOBIO Matured in French oak, this smooth, juicy red is a good pick for those who like California merlot and Argentine malbec. $15. The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, 314.962.8150, wineandcheeseplace.com

2012 QUINTA DE VALE DE PIOS EXCOMUNGADO This tannic Douro blend features touriga nacional and touriga franca grapes. $15. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Madeira, a Portuguese fortified wine strong enough to endure the long voyage across the Atlantic Ocean, was a favorite of George Washington, who would order more than a hundred gallons at a time.

2010 QUINTA DA ZARALHÔA COLHEITA This dense red wine spends two years maturing in French oak and has notes of blackberries and vanilla. $45. Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com

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beer gets tropical

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

BY KATIE HERRERA

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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

4 hands/ wicked weed super flare

Guide to Drinking 2016

iki trends are taking over bar and cocktail culture. Fun glassware, deliciously sinful spirits, juicy tropical flavors and island vibes can whisk you away from the real world, if only for a momentary vacation. But spirits aren’t having all the fun – the beer world is saying aloha, too.

Tropical nuances in beer develop through several different avenues. Rum barrels are now used for barrel aging, hop varietals and yeast fermentation can produce tropical aromatics and flavors, and additions from passion fruit to pineapple promote a palate ripe with island flair.

Big imperial stouts and other maltforward styles like brown ales and porters are prime for rum-barrel aging.

The barrels bring complex notes of char and coconut that shine through and balance out some of the aggressive bitter chocolate and coffee notes.

Yeast can drive fruity aromas and flavors in beer without adding any actual fruit.

Banana and soft stone fruit notes are common byproducts of fermentation, while certain Brettanomyces yeast

Guide to Drinking 2016

strains (like Anomala and Bruxellensis) produce beautiful, funky flavors and aromas of pineapple, guava and mango.

Since hops create layers of complexity on the palate and nose, varietals heavy on tropical fruit flavors and aromatics (like Mosaic, Citra, Topaz, Calypso, Azacca and Galaxy) can make beer ready for a luau.

Sour beers are also primed for the tropics. Made by introducing bacteria to the fermentation process, their acidity drives a more juice-forward, lively flavor.

Fruit additions can enhance existing tropical notes brought from hops, a barrel, yeast or bacteria, or they can create an influence all their own.

Pineapple, mango, papaya, passion fruit, guava or coconut can be added during or after fermentation, and typically result in a vibrantly fruity aroma and juicy palate.

If you want to up your tiki game in the beer world, check out these beach-bum beers.

Continued on p. 18.

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Boulevard Tropical Pale Ale

4 Hands / Wicked Weed Collaboration Super Flare Brett IPA with mango and guava (7.5-percent ABV) By far the most dynamic beer on the list, this hopforward, juicy, funky IPA is a tropical mouthful. Galaxy and Mosaic hops and Brett funk drive the aroma, while succulent mango and guava round out the palate. This beer deserves its own giant parrot tiki glass. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com Avery Brewing Co. Liliko’i Kepolo Belgian-style wit with passion fruit (5.4-percent ABV) This mildly tart, satiating wheat beer is chock-full of vibrant citrus notes, light black pepper, cardamom and juicy passion fruit.

Medium-bodied, crisp and easy-drinking, your taste buds will dance the hula.

Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton. craftbeercellar.com

Bright hoppy notes of pineapple, mango, citrus and grass are paired with passion fruit juice, grapefruit juice and grapefruit zest for a deliciously refreshing tropical twist on a pale ale. This former seasonal was so popular, Boulevard started brewing it yearround. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Boulevard Brewing Co. Tropical Pale Ale Pale ale with tropical hops and grapefruit zest (5.9-percent ABV)

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Though not quite a whale, Prairie Artisan Ales’ Pirate Bomb! isn’t easy to find. If you see this smooth and coconut-y rum barrel-aged Imperial stout on the shelf, catch it while you can.

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Mikkeller Spontan Series - Pineapple/ Mango/Passionfruit Lambic-style wild ales with fruit added (all 7.7-percent ABV) Intense notes of barnyard funk and bright acidity brought on by spontaneous fermentation are highlighted by different fruit additions. Try the pineapple, mango or passion fruit versions of the Spontan series for a taste of the tropics. Friar Tuck, 9053 Watson Road, Crestwood, 314.918.9230, friartuckonline.com Oskar Blues Passion Fruit Pinner Session IPA with passion fruit added (4.9-percent ABV) I thought Oskar Blues Pinner couldn’t get any better; then it went and added a tropical touch. Still rocking the beautifully dry, crisp palate and nice body of the classic Pinner, this has a subtle sweetness on the nose and ripe passion fruit carrying out the finish.

Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com

Mikkeller Spontanpineapple

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Served on cask at 58 degrees, this juicy, sour blonde ale boasts vibrant clementine on the nose and a palate stacked with funky notes of pineapple and mango, all derived from the fermentation of local Missouri microflora.

The Side Project Cellar, 7373 Marietta Ave., Maplewood, 314.224.5211, thesideprojectcellar.com Guide to Drinking 2016

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Side Project Brewing Foedre Beer Missouri Wild Ale (6-percent ABV)

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Cellarman

Steve Crider SERIOUS BEER DOESN’T HAVE TO BE SERIOUS B Y J U L IE C O H E N // P H O T O S B Y C A R M E N T R O E S S E R

libby and steve crider

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to own a brewery. In 2008, with approval from the Tobacco Trade Bureau and the state of Missouri, a brand-new microbrewery license and now nearly 10 years of homebrew experience, Crider finally felt ready to open a brewpub in St. Louis.

But instead, he landed at Cedar Creek Center, a corporate conference and retreat space in New Haven, Missouri, which isn’t quite as random as it sounds. At the time, Crider was working at Cedar Creek Center, heading up building projects and maintaining the grounds.

“I can make anything out of metal or wood,” he said. (Or grain and hops, we’d like to add.)

The folks at Cedar Creek Center offered him the space, so he built what would become 2nd Shift Brewing, a production facility that would provide beer to Town Hall Restaurant on Cedar Creek’s premises and a home to his cats, nicknamed Albino Pygmy Puma and El Gato Grande. Namesake for two beers which came later, you may also recognize them from 2nd Shift’s social media, where they can be seen sitting on aging barrels, perched on top of a ladder, casually riding a pallet jack and hanging out in a fermentation tank.

ART OF NEUROSIS, AMERICAN IPA, 7.6-PERCENT ABV In November 2010, Crider released his first beer, Art of Neurosis, to the public. The name comes from Crider working on it for what felt like “forever” – 30 different renditions – until he thought it was right.

MULLINEAUX, SAISON, 6-PERCENT ABV In 1999, Charlene Mullineaux Crider bought her son, Steve, a homebrewing kit for Christmas, a gift that not only changed his life, but served as the impetus for great beer for Missouri and a growing portion of the nation.

What might have resulted in the usual new homebrewer routine (bottling two or three batches of mediocre beer and then dismissing the apparatus to the basement to collect dust), for Steve Crider, had a different effect.

“In three months, I was unhappily obsessed,” said Crider. “I read and studied everything.”

By Thanksgiving, Crider had 10 taps and 42 kegs of homebrew. He was making beer so

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fast (20 to 40 gallons a week), he couldn’t find enough friends to drink it all, which says a lot – his friends like beer. Soon he had three temperature-controlled deep freezes: one set for fermenting, one set for crashing the beer and one for serving.

Fast-forward to 2006 when Crider and his uncle were driving across southern Utah.

At the time, Crider, like his father and grandparents before him, was working as a machinist, a welder, a self-described jack-ofall-trades. During one of his turns behind the wheel, his uncle suggested Crider open a brewery. “I said, ‘Nah, that wouldn’t work,’ and he said, ‘Fuck it! Do it!’”

So he did. But first, because Crider had never worked in the service industry, he went to Chicago to take a course in how

St. Louis beer blogs, message boards and social media platforms also felt he had gotten it right, many citing it the best IPA they’d ever tasted.

Beer Advocate gave it a very good score of 88 out of 100. Not bad for a homebrewer’s first commercial release out of a tiny operation facility no one had ever heard of.

“The first beer is supposed to be horrible,” Crider said. “I wish I had that story. You’re supposed to. But I’ve never made a gross beer – not a bad, bad beer, not technically.”

Since Crider is considered one of the more experimental brewers in the area, it makes one wonder how he can’t produce at least some crappy products. After all, only months after releasing the highly lauded Art of Neurosis, he already had barrels of brews aging and funkifying with wild yeasts.

Perhaps what makes Crider great instead of just good is that he lives in the space between

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Crider is a cat man. He names beers after his brewery cats (like the Albino Pygmy Puma pale ale pictured here with its namesake), puts them on labels and props stuffed cats on tasting tables, bottle boxes and peeking out behind signs at beer events.

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Guide to Drinking 2016

being unafraid of failure and being techniqueand research-obsessed enough that he won’t allow himself to fail.

“He’s the most curious person I’ve ever met,” said his wife and co-owner, Libby Crider. “If he gets addicted, he’s going to be the best at it. He’s going to give it 135 percent.”

And if a beer doesn’t work? “He wants to hear how much you hate it,” Libby said. “He loves it when people tell him they hate his beer because he’s invoked a passionate response. He says, ‘Good. My beer isn’t middle-of-the-road.’

If you’re ‘meh,’ then he wants to know why and what you think. He’s like a 3-year-old. He always wants to know why.”

KATY, AMERICAN BRETT SAISON, 5.4-PERCENT ABV In early 2012, Crider released Katy, named after the Katy Trail that runs along the river across from Cedar Creek. Crider described Katy simply as a “Brett beer.” Brett, or Brettanomyces, is a wild yeast strain that can be added to beer for a touch of funkiness and complexity. Katy is aged three months in oak barrels, which, along with the Brett, give it wine-like notes and an effervescence that makes it both delicate and refreshing.

While nowadays experimenting with Brett is commonplace, in 2011 Crider was one of the first, if not the first, local brewer to put one out.

And again, the beer nerds were buzzing.

But Crider hasn’t stopped tinkering with Katy.

Last year, Libby bought 250 pounds each of peaches and blackberries, and Steve added them to some barrels of Katy. This year, she bought 260 pounds of organic raspberries, so he’s doing the same. “Brett eats sugars from the fruits, but it’s not a fruity beer. The fruits that come in here also have wild yeasts, which are risky,” he said.

For Crider, his risky infatuation with wild yeasts is one of the best parts of brewing.

While many strains of yeast have been isolated and cultured over the centuries so brewers can have total control with their recipes, it’s the untamed yeasts Crider seeks out. Even though

Guide to Drinking 2016

they’re hard to manage and have the capability of making a beer undrinkable (think notes of horse poop and cat urine), they also have the potential to make a beer truly remarkable.

(“He’s lived 10,000 lives before we even met; he does what he wants”) she was quick to point out that he takes his family and brewery very seriously – just nothing else.

“That’s the fun of it – that’s the art side. There’s the technical side and the artistic side. The artistic side is the best part.”

“It makes him happy to see people having fun. He’s the good-time facilitator,” Libby said. “We just want to make good beer.”

“Every beer you drink you can get inspired by,” Crider said. “A lot of brewers won’t say, ‘I had beer X and I want to make one like it.’ No one wants to admit it. But everyone does it. You wouldn’t come up with dark chocolate if you had never had it before.”

ANNABELLE, FARMHOUSE BRETT, 4.8-PERCENT ABV And now there is a third Crider to add to the mix, Annabelle, Steve and Libby’s infant daughter.

As for Katy, though, Crider thinks it might be an original and sees it as a good entry point to funky beer. “I still don’t know if I’ve had one like it yet,” he said. “But I’m not saying that’s good, bad, right or wrong.”

P.A.R.K.A.S., BARREL-AGED SOUR, 6.2-PERCENT ABV For years it’s just been Steve and Libby at 2nd Shift. “We do everything,” Steve said. “It’s a tough business to make money. We are literally just breaking even. We try to take one day off a month, but usually it just becomes a half-day.”

Yet, the Criders wouldn’t have it any other way.

“I’ve never gotten up at 4 a.m. and said, ‘Shit I have to go to work,’” said Steve. “I get to go build a brewery!”

“We love what we do,” seconded Libby, even the parts of the job that involve cleaning kegs and scrubbing floors.

Part of what makes the grind fun is the couple’s commitment to not taking themselves too seriously. One of Steve’s brews, named by Libby, is P.A.R.K.A.S., made in collaboration with Cory King of Side Project Brewing. It stands for Puppies and Rainbows, Kittens and Shit. “You know,” Libby said, as if this made total sense, “rainbows blowing out of your asshole.”

While Libby agrees with the public’s perception that Steve is a total free spirit

With the addition of Annabelle and the Criders’ desire to finally turn a profit, they knew their tenure at Cedar Creek was nearing its end.

After searching for almost two years, looking at more than 30 buildings, the Criders found a new home. Come this fall, they will open their 13,000-square-foot production facility and tasting room on The Hill.

“It’s incredibly bittersweet,” said Libby. “This is our home, this is the area that fostered us.”

In homage to their first home as a brewery, the Criders plan on always holding their annual summer beer festival out at Cedar Creek.

Even though another brewery in St. Louis doesn’t seem profound, for St. Louis beer drinkers, this one is. (On the day the Criders made the announcement to move 2nd Shift to St. Louis, they were trending on social media over the Cardinals and Blues – and the Blues were in the playoffs).

With the move, the Criders hired Mike Sweeney, founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week and the STL Hops blog, to take over operations, so that Steve can spend more time with his beers and release some self-described “freaky stuff.” And now Libby can cross cellarman, gopher and at least a few other of the thousand job titles off her list.

But the move to the city and the addition of more staff doesn’t mean the Criders will rest much. During 2nd Shift’s first year, Steve made 250 barrels of beer (one barrel equals 55 gallons). Last year, the Criders produced 750

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libby and steve crider 2nd shift brewing 1601 sublette ave., st. louis, 573.237.3421, 2ndshiftbrewing.com

barrels; this year they are on track to produce 1,300, and next year they are hoping for 3,000 with the help of the larger St. Louis facility. Yet, becoming gigantic is not their end goal. “At 5,000 barrels, we want to plateau,” said Libby.

“We never not want to work in the brewery.”

“It’s just what we do,” Steve agreed, over the sounds of Annabelle’s coos as she wiggled on his desk. “It becomes your life. She’s going to take this stuff over.”

And she just might. Even now, she refuses to be maneuvered into any sort of baby carrier, preferring Steve’s hip as he brews. “Just like Steve,” said Libby, “she can’t be restrained. I tried everything. That child wants to be free.”

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FUNKY PHOQUE, AGED WILD ALE, 5.5-PERCENT ABV One morning in late July, in the middle of a heat wave, hundreds of people stood sweating inside a warehouse with no air conditioning and no seating. Why? At noon 2nd Shift would release its newest beer, Funky Phoque, at the site of its soon-to-open tasting room.

Just after noon, Steve Crider climbed to the top of a 10-foot ladder standing incongruously in the middle of the empty warehouse and let out an ear-piercing whistle.

The call to attention didn’t do much good in the cavernous space reverberating with hundreds of people’s conversations.

Unperturbed, Crider shouted out information about the new beer and plans for the layout of the new production facility and tasting room.

Maybe he talked about how Funky Phoque was aged 17 months in French oak with a mixed wild yeast culture of Brett, Pedio and Lacto. Maybe he described the tart and funky beer, with its notes of white wine and oak – who knows?

Finally, someone in the crowd yelled, “We can’t hear you!”

So Crider cupped his hands around his mouth and shouted back, “Get drunk!” before descending the ladder.

Guide to Drinking 2016

Guide to Drinking 2016

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hold the gin VERMOUTH MAKES A COMEBACK

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

punt e mes over ice with a twist

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Guide to Drinking 2016

vermouths at planter’s house

L

ong regarded as martini and Manhattan’s backup dancer, vermouth is having a spotlight moment. This old-school underdog has recently piqued the interest of American wine drinkers and cocktail quaffers alike, leading to a more diverse and higher quality bottle selection.

Vermouth is an aperitif wine that’s fortified (blended with other booze, usually brandy) and aromatized (flavored with botanicals, including wormwood). Traditionally, “Italian” was shorthand for sweet vermouth, while French varieties were light and dry, but these days, most producers do it all.

Guide to Drinking 2016

In a market formerly dominated by a couple functional but lackluster varieties, local distributor Vintegrity has quadrupled its vermouth portfolio in the last half-decade. Certified sommelier and sales representative Alisha Blackwell attributed the fortified wine’s increasing popularity to the craft cocktail movement.

depth and nuance of the wines, as well as their differentiating qualities.

“(Vermouth’s) trajectory is going up,” Blackwell said. “Bartenders are looking for specific flavor profiles. Maybe they’re looking for a nice, dry white or a sweet red that comes off as nutty with a cola profile.”

Planter’s House proprietor Ted Kilgore agreed. “Vermouth blends well with high-alcohol spirits. There are so many styles. I analyze each vermouth, then pair it in a cocktail.”

Randolfi’s head barman Jeffrey Moll used to make his own vermouth but now takes advantage of the wider variety available, considering the

“There’s a tool for every job,” Moll said.

“A delicate, dry vermouth is better suited in a martini, where it works well with the gin, than a Manhattan where the whiskey takes over.”

As a mixed-drink modifier (a low-ABV ingredient that flavors and tames a spirit-forward tipple), vermouth can both enhance and buttress the notes in a cocktail, particularly on the middle of

the palate, creating an elegant bridge between a boozy first sip and a pleasant finish via lighter liqueurs or syrups.

A delightful, if unintended, consequence of this aperitif ascension is the ability to dip a toe into European drinking culture by sipping quality vermouths on their own. A serving should amount to 4 or 5 ounces.

“There’s no wrong way to drink vermouth,” said Kilgore. “It can be served straight or on the rocks.”

While not technically a vermouth, Moll suggested starting with Lillet Blanc as your gateway glass into continental aromatized wines. Lillet tastes similar to vermouth, but is less fortified and lacks

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the importance of being contrary at planter’s house

Where to get it Reeds American Table offers five domestic and imported glasses to sip on ice with a twist on its aperitifs menu. the strong, bitter flavor of wormwood.

It’s a more approachable, fresh, fruity sip with a happy lingering finish. For a comparable light glass of vermouth, Kilgore recommended Dolin Blanc, which is also fruit-forward (with grapefruit and floral notes to Lillet’s lemon and orange), or a member of the newly available La Quintinye family of French vermouths, which include a blanc, extra dry and rouge.

For a dark, rich glass, Carpano Antica Formula is a classic – claiming the original recipe used since the Italian company purportedly invented vermouth in 1786.

“Everyone calls it the Rolls-Royce of vermouth,” Kilgore said. “It’s the go-to for high-end.” The Antica offers a luxurious, well-rounded sip grounded by vanilla with baking spice, plum and prune notes, and

a sweet finish. Moll suggested Cocchi Vermouth di Torino as a more affordable alternative to the Antica, which has a similar deep, rich quality and a smaller price tag. Kilgore prefers Punt e Mes, which he described as “a cocktail in a bottle,” offering a bitter note along with citrus. “It’s good for breakfast, lunch or dinner,” Kilgore said. He suggested enjoying it chilled over ice with an orange twist, or mixed simply with La Quintinye Blanc, club soda and a twist of grapefruit.

While there’s no wrong way to drink it, there is a wrong way to store vermouth.

Do not crack open a bottle and throw it on your cocktail cart next to the rye and over-proofed rum. It is a wine after all, and should be stored in the refrigerator to ward off oxidation and spoiling.

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If you’ve had a bad experience – perhaps having stolen a nip from a 3-year-old bottle stored in your parents’ liquor cabinet – it’s worth taking another look.

“It’s so often misunderstood,” said Moll.

“Vermouth is so diverse and easy to drink. It’s not like having two or three Manhattans and having to call it a night.

It’s a great way to extend the evening.”

In other words, vermouth is the Jennifer Lopez of the cocktail world. Plucked from its underutilized background-dancing role, it is now front and center, rising to the challenge and delivering palatepleasing wins for bartenders and patrons alike. Love don’t cost a thing – or at least not much more than $20 a bottle.

Planter’s House released its aperitif cocktail menu in July, with each cocktail featuring a different vermouth. Try The Importance of Being Contrary, a simple blend of light, dry Contratto Bianco, gin, tonic syrup and a bubbly topper, or sample the 10 spotlighted varieties on their own.

Randolfi’s Adventurous Menu includes May All Your Days Be Gold, featuring Moll’s favorite vermouth of the moment – La Quintinye Blanc. He’ll also serve your choice of nearly two dozen other bottles.

All vermouths mentioned are available at Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Guide to Drinking 2016

Guide to Drinking 2016

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best bitter bottles

Sweet-toothed Americans are increasingly embracing bitter flavors at the bar. Aperol spritzes are everywhere, and according to Randolfi’s head barman Jeffrey Moll, “No respectable home bar should be without Campari.” The pretty pink amaro and its compatriots are for more than your nightly Negroni. Bitter liqueurs and aromatized wines can be enjoyed simply poured over ice with a citrus twist or neat at room temp. We asked Moll, Planter’s House’s Ted Kilgore and Retreat Gastropub’s Tim Wiggins to tell us which bottles best bring out the bitter. – Kristin Schultz

Amaro Sibilla is sweetened with honey but tastes boldly bitter and herbal – a siren song for the experienced amaro enthusiast. It’s great in complex cocktails. $54

Amaro Sibona boasts a sweet, baking spice-laced start with a smooth, slightly bitter, chocolate finish.

Substitute it for Campari or sweet vermouth in your next Negroni. $30

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Contratto Aperitif is easy to drink with prominent orange notes, like a more complex Aperol.

Try mixing equal parts with a dry, sparkling white wine. $30

Amaro Nonino’s bittersweet caramel and baking spice notes are best on their own, rather than in a cocktail. Try as an aperitif over ice, or sip it neat after dinner. $50

Amaro di Angostura rolls around the palate with the spiced flavors of the classic Angostura bitters. Use in place of vermouth for an ampedup Manhattan. $22

Byrrh is a lightly bitter blend of young red wine and quinine.

With an approachable flavor profile and price tag, it’s a safe start on your bitter journey. $18

Guide to Drinking 2016

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

All available at The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com.

Guide to Drinking 2016

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Guide to Drinking 2016

Guide to Drinking 2016

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