Sauce Magazine // September 2019 by Sauce Magazine

AT YOUR SERVICE career waiters make the hospitality industry a home

T H E M I D W E S T E R N , P. 2 5 S AY- G O O D B Y E - T O - S U M M E R R E C I P E S , P. 4 2 OUR ANNUAL GUIDE TO DRINKING

tony's head bartender donny bonds, p. 36

September 2019 I SAUCE ST. LO U I Sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // saucemagazine.com F R E E , S E PT E M B E RMAGAZINE 2019 I 1

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SEPTEMBER 2019 • VOLUME 19, ISSUE 9 What are you drinking right now?

I’m firmly in the highball

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITERS ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITORS SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Pool rosé

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS I’m really into mezcal Last Words.

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

court - usually vodka Allyson Mace sodas. Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Huff Catherine Klene Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell Lauren Healey Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene Michelle Volansky Megan Gilmore Julia Calleo, Virginia Harold, Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ryan Griffin, Justin Harris, Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes Huff, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Robert Lowes, Marianne Moore, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Kristin Schultz, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Marcelle Owona, Darian Stevenson I’ll drink anything.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2019 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 September 2019

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contents SE PT E M B E R 2 019

editors' picks 11 EAT THIS J.I.T.B. Tacos at Byrd & Barrel

by matt sorrell 13 HIT LIST 2 places to try this month

reviews 25 NEW AND NOTABLE The Midwestern

by michael renner 30 LUNCH RUSH Morning Glory Diner

by matt berkley

COVER DETAILS Not everyone in the service industry is after a temporary gig. Donny Bonds has worked at

Tony’s since 1978 and still loves what he does.

AT YOUR SERVICE

Learn more about Bonds and other St. Louis

by robert lowes

career servers on p. 36. PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

SUMMER'S GRAND FINALE by marianne moore

Flip the magazine over to see the Guide to Drinking Basically just spirits and soda, highballs have

by catherine klene and meera nagarajan

32 NIGHTLIFE

made a comeback. Originating in Japan, the

17 ELIXIR

Brennan’s Work & Leisure

about highballs like the lemongrass sochu

by stephanie zeilenga

with hibiscus at The Bao on p. 18.

Think outside the glass

by heather hughes huff

last bite

18 FIXATIONS by heather hughes huff, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and adam rothbarth

48 STUFF TO DO by lauren healey

21 A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore

50 WHAT I DO

drink trend is all in the details. Find out more

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM when Sauce shares its must-try new restaurants on the September Hit List. Then tune in later in the month when we talk to lifelong servers about their decades in the hospitality business.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHSNON

Aaron Martinez

by matt sorrell 52 LANDMARK O'Connell's Pub

cheeseburger at the midwestern p. 25

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

by adam rothbarth

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

features

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Eat This

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

Some things taste so good at the end of the night. Then the cold, harsh light of day proves that, without the soft glow of alcohol, what was so satisfying is merely meh during office hours. Byrd & Barrel knows this and has transformed a fast-food favorite into something eminently delicious at any hour. The J.I.T.B. tacos recast the Jack in the Box favorite with some serious culinary mojo, combining spicy meat, iceberg lettuce and melty cheese in a soft-yet-crispy corn tortilla for a transcendent bite that will make you regret every sub-par, late-night indulgence even more.

3422 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.875.9998, byrdandbarrel.com

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

hit list

2 new places to try this month

THE VEGAN BIG MAK AT UTAH STATION

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HIT LIST p. 2 of 2

TURMERIC

clockwise from top: marina shrimp at turmeric; vegan crack tacos at utah station; from left, utah station owner carrie bauer, sous chef jesi willey-hooker and executive chef chris bertke; utah station

Housed in the former Público space, Turmeric Pan-Indian Restaurant + Bar takes a more modern approach than most Indian restaurants. The restaurant offers a variety of dosas, a popular south Indian dish made up of thin, panseared rice crepes typically stuffed with a spiced potato mixture, including the unique Truffle Masala Dosa, made with truffle oil. The Bombay Sliders contained a potato patty instead of meat, served with a tamarind sauce and yogurt to add sweetness and acidity. The spiced Marina Shrimp, cooked in a red pepper sauce with black mustard seeds, were a standout hitting all the sour, sweet, hot and salty flavor points. Order the lunch special to try a little of everything: one vegetarian appetizer, two vegetarian entrees, lentils, pulao rice, naan, pappad and desserts all for $11. It’s a steal, and the buffet comes to you – servers will refill certain dishes until you’re completely stuffed.

6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9995, turmericstl.com

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UTAH STATION A long-neglected service station in Benton Park has new life as a vegan hotspot. Utah Station executive chef Chris Bertke spent years developing his own plant-based meat substitute that takes center stage in dishes like toasted ravioli, gyros and fast food-inspired favorites the Big Mak and the Crack Tacos (think Jack in the Box tacos sans animal products). Don’t sleep on the Utah smash burger (double or single plant-based patties with a variety of vegan cheese options) or the pizzas with vegan, vegetarian or meat toppings and cheese options. If you’re just too carnivorous for that menu, fear not: Utah Station also offers a few meaty entrees like a pulled pork sandwich and a grass-fed beef burger that receive just as much attention as their plant-based counterparts.

1956 Utah St., St. Louis, 314.588.8099, Facebook: Utah Station September 2019

UTAH STATION PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; TURMERIC PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

THINK OUTSIDE THE GLASS

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

By Heather Hughes Huff

September 2019

It’s been a long summer, and we need a drink, preferably one that doesn’t require a lot of ingredients, a recipe – or a glass. Join us on this journey with a Can Radler. Just sip on your favorite lager for a bit, finish maybe 25% of the can, then pour in a little lemonade. You can use a

funnel if you’re feeling fancy. We generally just do our best and pour over the sink. (One Sauce staff member insists the beer must be Stag, but we suspect he’s simply attached to the name Stagonade.) If you want something more substantial, try a Hard Can

Radler. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. did the radler work for us with its tasty Big Shark lemon and grapefruit versions. Adding a shot of tequila to the Big Shark grapefruit makes a great lazy person’s paloma. Or add a shot of gin to the lemon radler for a beery twist on a French 75.

If beer is not your thing, the most refreshing cupless cocktail is possibly Ranch Water in a Bottle. Simply sip some Topo Chico mineral water, add a shot of tequila or mezcal to the bottle, and squeeze in as many limes wedges as you can. Call it a skinny margarita, use a different seltzer – we don’t care. Just bring us another.

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Fixations From heavenly olive oil to unique macarons, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

Off Color Brewing Co. Spots This 3.8% tiki-inspired Berliner Wiesse has slaked our thirst all summer with its fluffy body and refreshing hint of passion fruit. Four-pack: $9. Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com

Todd Geisert Sausages Every late summer cookout needs Todd Geisert sausages. We love the jalapeno-cheddar if you can find them, but all the locally made sausages are worth bringing to the party. Four-pack: $8. Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morganford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com

Libellula Extra Virgin Olive Oil Harvested and cold-pressed specifically for Olio in Montelibretti, Italy, this olive oil is something special. We’re obsessed with its bright, fruity flavor and will only use it for finishing dishes or dipping bread. $32. AO&Co., 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, bengelina.com

Palo Hot Charlie’s Cheddar Popcorn You know that Cape Cod White Cheddar popcorn? Yeah, you do. Everyone does. Now forget about it. This variety of Palo’s popcorn is even cheesier, and is tossed in local hot sauce dust. Yes, this is real. $4. Saucy-One, 1139 Colonnade Center, Des Peres, 314.329.8376, saucy-one.com

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Tipsy Goat Macarons These verdant macarons don’t just look pretty – they also taste amazing, with unexpected flavors like PB&J, Fruity Pebbles and Funfetti. Box of 6: $13. Whisk: A Sustainable Bakeshop, 2201 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.932.5166, tipsygoatstl.com

Kaldi’s Coffee 25th Anniversary Blend Combining Guatemalan, Colombian and Kenyan beans, Kaldi’s 25th Anniversary Blend is sweet and balanced. We like the dried fruit notes, and that $1 from every bag goes to help stroke survivors at Missouri Baptist Medical Center. $11. Kaldi’s Coffee, various locations, kaldiscoffee.com

Tres Agaves Margarita Mix You could juice 100 limes to make a batch of homemade margaritas – or you could buy Tres Agaves’ perfectly balanced organic margarita mix for the same result and take all the credit. $8. Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com

Giofre Apiaries Honey Ice Cream This ice cream is sweetened with bold, local honey so each bite radiates floralfruity notes. Try a pint made with local fruit like elderberry or blackberry, or stick to the classic vanilla (our favorite). $5.50. Dierbergs, various locations, dierbergs.com

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TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House

The Charlie Chaplin cocktail was a favorite at the Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York prior to 1920. Sipping this pre-Prohibition libation reveals layers of tart, ripe apricot, spiced plum and orchard fruit flavors, perfect for enjoying as summer gives way to fall. In a shaker, combine 1 ounce Hayman’s sloe gin, 1 ounce Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot liqueur and 1 ounce lime juice and serve in a cocktail glass.

A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop

Smooth and balanced with a hint of sweetness, Rather Large American from 4204 Main Street Brewing Co. in Belleville showcases a blend of Citra, Amarillo, Simcoe and Cascade hops matched beautifully with a malt backbone. With pungent, earthy aromas and a hint of citrus, this 9% American double IPA offers a clean finish and lingers on the palate just long enough to make you want another sip. Four-pack: $11. Randall’s Wine & Spirits, St. Louis, shoprandalls.com

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

4204 main street brewing co.’s rather large american lager has pungent earthy aromas and a hint of citrus.

September 2019

GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

Bordeaux reds are the gold standard, but finding high-quality blends at reasonable prices is challenging. The dark plum 2016 Chateau Argadens Bordeaux Supérieur is a stunning achievement in both. With seductive fruit flavors, red berry aromas and lush, round tannins, this blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc tastes amazing now and will be even better after a few years. $14. The Wine and Cheese Place, Rock Hill, wineandcheeseplace.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

SPONSORED CONTENT

BY LAUREN HEALEY

“A lot of people come here after work or on the weekends for our awesome cocktail program and to play the free games, but they may not realize we have a lot of high-quality, upscale food options,” said executive chef Kellon McCardie. “Most of the menu items are a play off traditional bar food, but with a twist.” The burnt end nachos include wonton chips rather than regular tortilla chips, for example, along with avocado crema, cheese sauce, kalamata olives, banana peppers and black bean pico. And the potato skins are topped with Gruyere instead of cheddar, smoked bacon lardons, chives and truffle crème fraiche in place of sour cream. “We wanted to make everything new and interesting but still approachable so people aren’t scared off by completely unfamiliar terms or

pronunciations,” McCardie said. The bulk of the roughly 40-item menu, most of which is made in-house with as many seasonal and local offerings as possible, is composed of shareable plates, perfect for fueling up with friends. From Sriracha-dusted pork rinds, spinach ravioli and kale chips served with honey-Sriracha dip to a variety of sliders, pizzas, skewers and tacos and a few dessert options (salted caramel brownie, anyone?), there’s something to please even the pickiest palates.

Westport Social is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and dinner service is from 3 to 11 p.m. There’s also a Sunday brunch menu from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. with items like the Wake n’ Bake Pizza with sausage, bacon, American cheese, maple syrup and quail egg. For more information, visit westportsocial-stl.com.

Above: the watermelon salad includes frisee, heirloom watermelon, grape tomato, fennel, red onion, pistachio, feta, bergamot olive oil and raspberry vinegar. Below: executive chef Kellon McCardie

“There are only a few things, like the house burger and the pork steak sandwich, that are meant for one person,” he said. The menu is also updated regularly, with the most recent additions including Korean pulled pork sliders, pork belly tacos and ceviche. “The main thing we want people to know is that, while the drinks and games are a big draw, we are an actual destination for some of the best food in town,” McCardie said.

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PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY

Westport Social has taken the West County nightlife scene by such storm that some may have overlooked it as one of the best foodie spots in the city.

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AT YOUR SERVICE Career waiters make the hospitality industry a home BY ROBERT LOWES // PORTRAITS BY GREG RANNELLS

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Ken Bollwerk, a 68-year-old man with a twinkle in his eye, has made a living laying napkins on the laps of the rich and famous, plating fettuccine with duck confit from a tableside cart and pampering guests. He’s worked for 44 years at Tony’s, the iconic St. Louis restaurant just a few hundred yards from the gleaming Gateway Arch. A long-time waiter and now manager, Bollwerk carries a worn pocket notebook where he’s jotted down not only memos about new wines and regular guests, but also dictums from his late boss like, “Take pride in your work – your work is you.” Vince Bommarito Sr. ran his father’s eponymous restaurant like a Marine drill team for 60 years and taught Bollwerk everything he knows. Bommarito passed away in April, but his words have sunk in. “I want to be the best waiter I can be,” Bollwerk said. The Tony’s veteran belongs to a cadre of St. Louisans who’ve made waiting tables and serving restaurant patrons a career as opposed to a get-through-college gig. They’re found at high-end establishments where a popular waiter can net $800 to $1,000 in tips each week or upward of $50,000 a year after assistants and bartenders get their cuts. That’s on top of the minimum $4.30 per hour in wages they’re owed as tipped employees in Missouri. This kind of money may pale in comparison with the 100 grand some New York City waiters reportedly earn, but it secures a middle class lifestyle in St. Louis despite most waiters’ absence of health care coverage and 401(k). Bollwerk and his wife own a home and have put four children through college. But it’s not just the money that keeps people like Bollwerk taking orders for decades.

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KEN BOLLWERK “You make people happy every night” A HALLWAY at Tony’s is covered with photos of VIP guests, many hearkening back to yesteryear – Frank Sinatra, the two Bush presidents, Ozzie Smith, Carol Channing. Ken Bollwerk has greeted or waited on them, but the restaurant’s rarified atmosphere – where waiters used to wear tuxedos – made him want to quit after his first day on the job at age 23. “I told my mom, ‘I’m not going back; it’s way over my head,’” he said. “Mom said, ‘You’ve got to give it a chance.’” He paid his dues as an assistant waiter for several years before becoming a fullfledged captain in charge of a station of six tables and two assistants. After 20-odd years of captaining, Bollwerk moved up to manager. In that role, he performs some maitre d’ duties like taking reservations, greeting and seating guests, introducing

their captain and, if need be, he helps serve. Bollwerk doesn’t intrusively chitchat with guests. The Bommarito Way minimizes server-talk to maximize table intimacy. No need to ask, “Now, who gets this steak?” The earlier placement of a steak knife at a diner’s plate provides the cue. At the same time, Bommarito taught his waiters to become acute students of their guests, according to Bollwerk. “He said, ‘Get the pulse of the party.’ Do they want to linger? Or are they fast eaters? Some people are going to the theater. We want to get them out on time. Some want to ask the waiters questions about the restaurant, others don’t – they’re doing business.” Respectful reticence doesn’t rule out close bonds with guests. As a server, Bollwerk had scores of call parties – diners who requested

him whenever they made a reservation. “I have a lot of friends who are guests here,” he said. “I socialize with some outside of work.” Bollwerk recommends serving as an option for individuals who don’t view themselves as college bound. He quit community college to work full-time and support his divorced mother. “I made no six-figure income, but I made more than I would have in a factory,” he said. Especially when some guests tipped 100%. There’s another payoff for good service. “The greatest thing about working here is that you make people happy every night,” Bollwerk said, his face lighting up. “When they leave, they can’t wait to come back.” That’s one way Bollwerk has made his friends. “If you don’t have relationships,” he said, “you have nothing.”

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LISA HADDON “It gets in your blood” LISA HADDON, a waitress at Trattoria Marcella, once dreamt her station of tables was as big as a parking lot. By the time she got back to each table with multitudinous orders, the diners had left. Such dreams come with a high-stress occupation, but 53-year-old Haddon has successfully weathered it since 1982 when she landed a job as hostess at the original Pasta House restaurant in University City. Founder Kim Tucci, a former Tony’s waiter, died in March, one month before Vince Bommarito Sr. Except for a brief stint as a hairdresser and a longer one co-managing the now shuttered Stellina Pasta Café, Haddon has made the rounds – Houlihan’s at Union Station, Peppe’s Apt. 2, Russell’s Cafe, the old Sea Chase at the Chase Park Plaza, to name a few. “People who’ve been in the restaurant business a long time say it gets in your blood,” Haddon said. “It’s really hard to get out once you get in it.” Money is one reason why the profession is addicting. “Nobody’s a millionaire, but I bought a house 20 years ago, and went on a vacation to Croatia this year,” she said. “You can make it a career, but most people do a little something extra because you have your days free.” In Haddon’s case, the side gig is an Airbnb business, which she hopes will eventually become a full-time affair. Haddon also touts the flexibility and autonomy her job affords. It’s not hard to find someone to cover her shift if she needs time off, she said. And her station, usually five to seven tables, amounts to her own mini-business. “My boss expects me to take care of my station. The goal is getting people to come back.” Like other careerists, Haddon relishes the camaraderie on the restaurant floor. “Your work family is here,” she said. “They’re the best people I’ve ever met, the funniest people I ever met, the most eclectic, eccentric.” The restaurant family is bonded together by crisis – mixed-up orders, a shorthanded kitchen, an obnoxious guest – and the constant stress of being scrutinized by a roomful of people. “It’s no wonder that so many actors are servers,” Haddon said. “You have to be ‘on,’ and not everybody can do that. It’s like being onstage.” But the play doesn’t last forever. The performers may get red-faced during the evening rush. Curses may be muttered. “But everybody knows it will be over,” said Haddon. “And they’ll have money in their pocket. “Afterwards, you have a drink, tell jokes and forget about it.”

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DONNY BONDS “The party never ended” WHAT HAPPENS when a Tony’s patron drops a napkin on the floor? Nobody picks it up right away. “We first give a new napkin to the guest,” said 58-yearold head bartender and private-party director Donny Bonds, hired in 1978. “Then we pick up the napkin on the floor so nobody wonders if they’re getting the dirty one back.” If anybody knows the Bommarito Way, it’s Bonds, who’s held almost every job at Tony’s outside of cooking, including dishwasher, barback, lounge waiter, wine cellar manager and captain. “He trained me himself,” Bonds said about Bommarito. “He showed me how to carry a tray of glasses using my fingertips instead

of my palm so I can control it better.” Bommarito wasn’t above raising his voice to make a point. Bonds said he tried to quit after his first week, telling Bommarito, “You yelled at me.” He persuaded Bonds, then a teenager, to stay on the job. Bonds became the restaurateur’s daytime driver in the last two years of his life, taking him to doctor’s appointments and eating lunch with him frequently. “He told me he’d take me to every restaurant in town,” said Bonds. Like his friend and colleague Bollwerk, Bonds remembers to take the pulse of the party. “You never comment on what’s being said at the table,” Bonds noted, “but you listen to know if anything is wrong.”

Serving drinks behind the bar, he adapts to each customer’s conversational bent. “You can be talking to one person about kids and another about a strip club,” he said. Bonds doesn’t hesitate to recommend bartending and serving as a career. He did well enough that, together with his ex-wife’s income, he could buy a home and put four children through college. “But we miss a lot of stuff,” he said, meaning anything that happens in the evening – school plays, presidential debates, television shows. For Bonds, what happens at Tony’s makes up for what the dayshift experiences at night. “When I started out, it was a party life for me,” he said. “The party never ended because I like what I do.” September 2019

Sidney Street Café

2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafestl.com

PEGGY CONLEY “Give nice, get nice”

Tony’s

410 Market St., St. Louis, 314.231.7007, tonysstlouis.com

Trattoria Marcella

3600 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.352.7706, trattoriamarcella.com

PEGGY CONLEY began waiting tables under the chandeliers of the old Lt. Robert E. Lee steamboat restaurant on the St. Louis waterfront in 1979. “At the time, I never thought about waitressing as a career,” she said. “But

it was good money – $500 a week in cash – and good benefits. I also met some of my best friends there.” A fire destroyed the Lt. Robert E. Lee in 2010, but Conley, now 62, continues to serve hungry, thirsty people. She’s an institution at

Sidney Street Café as a bartenderwaiter presiding over 13 barstools and nine tables. On weekends, she has an assistant. “Seventy-five percent of my clientele come here just to sit with me,” said Conley. “I’m waiting on some customers whose parents brought them here 25 years ago. Now, they’re bringing their kids.” She comes across as warm-hearted with hard-headed wisdom, boiling down serving success to pithy proverbs: Kill them with kindness. Give nice, get nice. The customer is always right. Bartending and waiting long enough can exact a physical price. In Conley’s case, the price has been two rotator cuff surgeries and two cervical disk surgeries from shaking mixed drinks over her head. “I developed bad feet on the Robert E. Lee wearing 1½inch heels,” she added. Aches and pains, though, haven’t dampened Conley’s festive spirit. Her work wardrobe includes some 100 different bow ties – jelly beans on the tie for Easter and ghosts on her Halloween tie. She owns a house and sits on a retirement nest egg. “I’ve always made good money,” she said. One key to financial security has been living on cash tips and banking her paycheck. She said she’ll continue full-time restaurant work until she turns 65, when she anticipates switching to private parties. “I can do them forever,” she said. Spoken like a lifer.

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SUMMER'S GRAND FINALE By M arianne Moore

Photos by C armen Troesser

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September 2019

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing better than wandering farmers markets and catching the best of the season. Gardenfresh produce needs little encouragement to let loose with amazing flavor. That last glimpse of summer makes it a great time to be a cook.

September 2019

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GRILLED WATERMELON SALAD WITH CHILI-LIME VINAIGRETTE

This fresh salad balances sweet, tart, salty, spicy and fresh. 6 SERVINGS 1 small seedless watermelon, peeled and cut in 1-inch-thick slices ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 ∕8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 ∕8 tsp. cumin 1 ∕8 tsp. paprika ¼ cup lime juice 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced 1 Tbsp. honey 1 garlic clove, minced 8 oz. arugula

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½ cup crumbled feta cheese ½ red onion, thinly sliced ¼ cup minced mint • Prepare a grill for high, indirect heat. • Brush the watermelon slices with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with the salt, cumin, pepper and paprika. Grill just until browned and marked on both sides. Dice the grilled watermelon. • In a small bowl, make the dressing by whisking together the lime juice, jalapeno, honey, garlic and the remaining ½ cup olive oil. • In large bowl, combine the watermelon, arugula, feta, red onion and mint. Drizzle the dressing over the salad to taste and toss to coat.

September 2019

ROASTED STRAWBERRY AND BUTTERMILK GELATO

Roasting strawberries brings out their natural sweetness – a perfect move for out-of-season produce. The gelato is tart and sweet summer in a bowl. 4 TO 5 QUARTS ½ lb. strawberries, quartered 1½ cups plus ¹∕³ cup sugar, divided 1 Tbsp. tawny port 10 eggs 4 cups heavy cream 2 cups buttermilk 2 cups whole milk 1 Tbsp. vanilla bean paste* Special equipment: ice cream maker • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. • In a medium bowl, toss the strawberries, ¹∕³ cup sugar and port. Place on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast until the berries deepen in color and soften, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and let cool. • Return the strawberries to the bowl and smash with a fork, leaving lots of texture. Set aside. • Prepare an ice bath by setting a small bowl into a large bowl filled with ice water. • In a medium bowl, lightly beat the eggs and set aside. • In a large stockpot, combine the cream, buttermilk, milk, vanilla and the remaining 1½ cups sugar. Place over medium heat, whisking continuously until bubbles start to form around the edges of the pot. Remove from heat. • Using a large ladle, slowly add about ½ cup hot milk mixture to the beaten eggs while whisking continuously. Slowly add another ½ cup milk mixture to the eggs. Then, slowly pour the egg mixture into the stockpot, whisking to combine. • Return the pot to medium-low to medium heat, and cook, stirring continuously, until thickened, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and pour into the prepared ice bath or refrigerate until completely chilled, 4 hours or overnight. • When the mixture has chilled completely, add the roasted strawberries and follow your ice cream maker instructions to freeze. September 2019

*If you don’t have paste, you can substitute 1 tablespoon vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean, scraped.

CHERRY AND BRIE PANINI

Roasting the cherries intensifies the flavor and removes some moisture because, let’s face it, no one likes a soggy sandwich. The balsamic vinegar adds brightness and sweetness. 1 SERVING ½ cup pitted and halved cherries 1 tsp. balsamic vinegar or port 2 slices rustic country bread 1 Tbsp. butter 1½ oz. room-temperature brie • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and preheat a panini press or pan to medium heat. • On a baking sheet, toss the cherries and balsamic vinegar and arrange in a single layer. Roast 15 to 20 minutes, then set aside and let cool slightly. • Butter 1 side of each bread slice. Place 1 slice, buttered side-down, on the panini press and top with half the brie, the cherries, then the remaining brie and the bread slice, buttered side-up. Cook until golden brown and the cheese melts, 6 to 8 minutes. If using a pan, flip the sandwich halfway.

• Shuck the corn and remove the kernels from the cob with a serrated knife. Lay on a paper towel-lined sheet pan and pat dry. • Preheat a cast-iron skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Add the corn and don’t stir until it starts to pop and char. Stir and repeat until the corn is charred but not blackened, then remove the corn from the pan and set aside. • In a large bowl, combine the red onion, cilantro, cotija, crema, lime juice, paprika, chili powder, cumin, pepper and salt and mix well. Add the corn and fold gently with a rubber spatula, seasoning with additional salt as needed. • Serve slightly warm, room temperature or cold. *If you can’t find crema, you can substitute 3 tablespoons sour cream combined with 5 tablespoons mayonnaise.

ZUCCHINI FLATBREAD

Feel free to substitute any fresh herbs in the ricotta – thyme and tarragon are some favorites. 8 SERVINGS

6 TO 8 SERVINGS

½ cup honey ¼ cup water 1½ lb. (about 3 medium) zucchini 1 large red onion, thinly sliced 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt, to taste 2 cups fresh ricotta ½ cup (about 3 oz.) finely grated Parmesan ¼ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped fresh mint Zest of 1 lemon 1 small garlic clove, grated 1 lb. pizza dough

6 ears of corn ½ red onion, minced ½ bunch cilantro, chopped ½ cup crumbled cotija ¹∕³ cup crema* 4 Tbsp. lime juice ¾ tsp. smoked paprika ½ tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. cumin ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste

• Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. • In a small saucepan over mediumhigh heat, heat the honey until it starts to simmer and foam, then remove from heat. When it stops simmering, return to heat and repeat until it turns a deep, golden brown, 2 to 3 times. Remove from heat and immediately whisk in the water. • Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise,

ELOTE SALAD

Crema is a slightly soured and thickened cream that adds a buttery pop to the charred corn in this dish.

then into ¼-inch slices. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the zucchini, onion, 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt, then spread into an even layer. Roast on the top rack, tossing once halfway through, until vegetables are browned and tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool. • In a medium bowl, make herbed ricotta by stirring together the ricotta, Parmesan, basil, mint, lemon zest, garlic and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Set aside. • Place the pizza dough in the center of another large baking sheet and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, then flip to coat. Using your fingers, stretch the dough outward from the center to the edges of the baking sheet. If the dough springs back, cover with a dish towel and let rest a few minutes. You may need to try a few times. • Drizzle the dough with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and use the back of a spoon to spread over the entire surface. Season the dough lightly with salt. Bake in the lower third of the oven 7 to 9 minutes, then layer generously with the ricotta mixture and top evenly with the roasted vegetables. Bake until the ricotta is softened, 6 to 7 minutes. Drizzle with the burnt honey, cut and serve immediately.

ROSEMARY-INFUSED PEACH GALETTE

Frangipane, a marzipan-like layer of ground almonds mixed with butter and eggs, lends a rich, nutty base to the sweet peaches. 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 1 cup plus 3 Tbsp. butter, divided 3 cups flour ½ tsp. plus 1 pinch kosher salt, divided 2 eggs, divided 5 Tbsp. cold water 1 tsp. white vinegar 2 lbs. (about 5) peaches, halved and pitted ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. Demerara or coarse sugar, divided ¹∕³ cup ground almonds ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. chopped plus 1 sprig rosemary

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Flatbread ZUCCHINI RECIPE ON P. 45

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¼ tsp. vanilla extract Special equipment: 9-inch tart pan with removeable bottom • Cut 1 cup cold butter into small cubes. In a large mixing bowl, combine the butter, flour and ½ teaspoon salt and stir until the mixture resembles small peas. • In a small bowl, beat 1 egg, then add the water and vinegar. Gradually add to the flour mixture, stirring just until moistened and a soft dough forms. Divide the pie dough into 2 discs and wrap separately in plastic. Freeze 1 pie dough for future use and refrigerate the other. • Prepare a grill for medium, indirect heat. Sprinkle the peaches with ¼ cup Demerara sugar and grill just until peaches darken and grill marks appear. Remove the peaches from heat and let cool before cutting in ¼- to ½-inch slices. Set aside. • In a food processor, make a frangipane by combining the ground almonds, 3 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary, the vanilla, 2 tablespoons room-temperature butter and the remaining egg and pinch of salt. Pulse until combined, then set aside. • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. • Remove the pie dough from the refrigerator and place on a lightly floured surface. Roll out in a circle a few inches wider than the tart pan. Gently transfer the dough to the tart pan. Spread the frangipane evenly over the bottom, then arrange the peaches over it. Gently fold the overhanging dough over the peaches, pleating as necessary. • Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and brush it over the exposed peaches and crust. Sprinkle lightly with the remaining 1 tablespoon Demerara sugar. Bake until the peaches soften and the crust is lightly browned, about 40 minutes. • Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, warm the remaining ¼ cup honey and rosemary sprig, making sure not to boil. Remove the rosemary and drizzle the honey over the baked galette. September 2019

Galette

ROSEMARY-INFUSED PEACH RECIPE ON P. 45

September 2019

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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

SEPTEMBER BY LAUREN HEALEY

SAUCE SPONSORED EVENTS Food Truck Friday

Food Preservation Classes

St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party

North County Restaurant Week

Sept. 4, 11, 18 and 25 – 6 to 8 p.m., Eliot Unitarian Chapel, 100 S. Taylor Ave., Kirkwood, 314.400.7397, extension.missouri.edu/stlouis Harvest the bounty of your garden and start canning to make it last all winter. Attend one or all of these University of Missouri Extension hands-on classes, which include topics like pressure canning, sweet spreads, salsas and pickling and fermenting foods. Registration available online.

Sept. 7 – 6 to 9 p.m., Lafayette Park, 2023 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.2537, Facebook: St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party Go to Lafayette Square for this eighth annual cocktail party. Purchase cocktails from around 15 local distilleries like Spirits of St. Louis, Pinckney Bend, Still 630 Distillery, The Big O Ginger Liqueur and more while jamming to the Jeremiah Johnson Band and snacking on fare from Square One Brewery. Admission is free, but tickets for unlimited tastings are available online.

Sept. 9 to 15 – participating restaurants, 314.837.2304 Head north to fill up on fare for purchase from some of North County’s favorite eateries. More than a dozen restaurants like Hendel’s, Ferguson Brewing Co., Vincenzo’s Italian Ristorante, Cork Wine Bar, Om Turtle Cafe, Marley’s Bar & Grill and more offer special discounts on food and drink, and diners can enter to win gift cards to participating restaurants.

Brazilian Day

Taste of Black STL

Chuseok Harvest Festival

Sept. 7 – noon to 8 p.m., Yemanja Brasil Restaurante, 2900 Missouri Ave., St. Louis, 314.497.7457, Facebook: Brazilian Day STL MO Celebrate Brazil’s independence from Portugal at this free street festival. Yemanja Brasil Restaurante takes over the street with live Brazilian music and dancing, as well as children’s activities. Its Brazil Express food truck is on hand with dishes like feijoada, empanadas and yucca fries for purchase, and there will be a full bar on the street to order caipirinhas, among other cocktails.

Sept. 14 – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.564.2680, tasteofblackstl.com Taste of Black STL showcases some of the city’s top black chefs and culinary professionals. Nosh on food for purchase from around 30 vendors like St. Louis Q, Desserts in a Jar, Tara’s Tasty Treats and The Crooked Boot food truck and sip beverages from Remy Martin and Budweiser. Then check out the arts and crafts vendors, informational booths, live music and more. RSVP requested online.

Sept. 28 – noon to 4:30 p.m., Community Music School of Webster University, 535 Garden Ave., Webster Groves; Sept. 29 – 1 to 4 p.m., Saint Louis Art Museum, 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, gateway-korea.org This free event celebrates Korea’s traditional harvest festival, Chuseok. Head to Webster University Saturday and learn how to make Korean dishes like gimbap and japchae and purchase fare from local food trucks. Then visit the Saint Louis Art Museum Sunday to see its Korean art collection, enjoy traditional storytelling and a K-pop dance demonstration.

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Sept. 6 – 4 to 7:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Gather your friends and head to Tower Grove Park. Nosh on fare from more than 20 trucks, including Locoz Tacoz, Poptimism and Destination Desserts, along with drinks from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards. While you eat and drink, enjoy the toe-tapping tunes of Les Gruff and the Billy Goat.

Taste of St. Louis Sept. 13 – 4 to 11 p.m.; Sept. 14 – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sept. 15 – 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Soldiers Memorial Plaza, 1720 Market St., St. Louis, 844.383.6810, tastestl.com Taste of St. Louis returns to downtown for this free festival. Purchase fare from about 40 area restaurants like Soulard Gyro and Hi-Pointe Drive-In on Sauce Magazine’s Restaurant Row. There’s also a wide selection of drinks, along with the annual Chef Battle Royale, live music and family-friendly activities educating the public on healthy food.

St. Louis Square Off Pizza Festival Sept. 22 – 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Berra Park, 5400 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.629.6911, stlsquareoff.com Head to The Hill to cast your vote for the best St. Louis-style pizza. Cusanelli’s, Dog House and more square off for the title at this third annual event. Live music, children’s activities and dozens of vendor booths round out the festivities. Tickets available online. September 2019

CORRECTION: In the August Chef of the Month, we did not properly identify chef Ryan Hecht. We regret the error. September 2019

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

AARON MARTINEZ Aaron Martinez has made the rounds of the fine dining world, working in the kitchens of esteemed California establishments like Quince in San Francisco, Commis in Oakland and Addison in San Diego, as well as In de Wulf in Belgium before settling in St. Louis last year. In July, after a stint helming the kitchen at Ben Poremba’s Elaia, Martinez was tapped to be executive chef of Cinder House, restaurateur Gerard Craft’s concept at the Four Seasons. – Matt Sorrell

since I was 16 years old, from hosting to waiting on tables. I figured out you could make more money at nicer places, so I started working at nicer places and saw food that made me say, ‘Whoa, I’ve never seen food like that before.’ High-end for us growing up was Outback Steakhouse.” “ I moved to Arizo na

and went to culinary school there. That’s where I met my mentor, William [Bradley]. I ate at his restaurant, Vu, and I’d never seen or tasted anything like it. The plates were beyond beautiful, and there were dishes like foie gras with ginger ice cream and pistachios – things I’d never even think of. I was so blown away, I thought, ‘I have to work here.’” “ Work ing at Add i s o n i n San Diego for William was

probably the hardest three-anda-half years of my life. It was like going to Harvard for cooking. It was stressful and hard, but it made me who I am today.” “My wife’s fr om Florissant, so it was just a

matter of time before we got here. Something fell through – a

project I was working on – and she said, ‘Let’s just go.’ It was the first time I went anywhere without a job. Sometimes things work out the way they’re supposed to. We bought a house in Old Town Florissant in January.” “Th e end ga m e for us i s to o p en s o m e t hi n g

here in this area. I’m hoping in the next two years we can think about doing something. We’ve thrown around the idea of a wine bar, something more casual and simple. Maybe on a Friday or Saturday, we do an elaborate tasting menu or something.” “P eo p l e are do i n g s o m e re al ly co ol st uf f h ere . It’s hard being in those

bigger cities now, and chefs and cooks are moving to places like St. Louis and Nashville because they can afford it. I got a job offer to go back to San Francisco, and I was like, ‘No way.’” “I k now Mi c h a e l Gal l i na , an d h e wa s al s o an i nf lue n c e on

me to come here. I worked [at Vicia] for two months when I first got here. He’s one of the most talented chefs in the city, and he’s staying true to

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himself. He’s not doing uber fine dining food but stuff that’s approachable, and he’s getting people into Bohlen Farms and Earthdance Farms and getting them to know where their food is coming from.” “ I ’ m s up e r s i m p l e on days o f f. Beast [Butcher &

Block] in The Grove is great.

He sources well, and you can taste the quality in what he’s doing. I also like Louie. It’s just right. You can go there and get some prosciutto and some great wine and some bread, and that’s all you really need. We also love traveling and exploring. We do day trips quite often. Where we live, there are so many cool spots for hikes.”

“To be in t his indust ry, yo u have to be a ll in.

You can tell the people who do it half-assed and those who love it. I think I was just born to do this.”

Cinder House 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.2104, cinderhousestl.com

September 2019

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

“I ’ ve a lways wo rk ed at restaura nts ever

September 2019

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

O’CONNELL’S PUB BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH

High-quality meat. Fazio’s bun. Pickle. Onion. Countless awards. O’Connell’s recipe for success isn’t complicated, but it’s never needed to be. The short and sweet menu, which almost never changes, features dishes labeled “Hamburger,” “Frank,” and “Roast Beef” with no further descriptions. “It’s just an American flair,” said general manager Fred Parker. Parker took over management of the restaurant 26 years ago from his uncle, Jack Parker, who opened it in 1962 and still comes in every day. They’ve been going for over five decades, and some things haven’t changed. “Quality and consistency is the main thing. We treat everybody like family. We have a lot of regulars, and those regulars keep us going,” Parker said. “We still have regulars from Gaslight Square that made the transition over to the current location. They never left.” A Southwest Garden staple through and through, the restaurant withstood its move from Gaslight Square in 1972 and – as South City residents know – a seemingly infinite amount of road construction in the triangle of Kingshighway Boulevard, Vandeventer Avenue and Interstate 44. St. Louis has changed, but O’Connell’s has remained a steadfast beacon for people looking for a sandwich, a beer and a dim, rustic dining room in which to enjoy them.

PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

4652 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.6600, Facebook: O’Connell’s Pub

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September 2019

lemongrass shochu highball at the bao, p. 18

GUIDE TO

D R I N K I N G ST. LOUISâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Drinking 2019INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

FREE, GUIDE TO DRINKING 2019 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I1

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Guide to Drinking 2019

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ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

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Guide to Drinking 2019

WE'VE

GOT

SPIRIT

St. Louis has firmly established itself as a top craft beer city, but craft distilling has recently gained more than just a foothold in the beverage scene. Here are some of the area’s newest spirits producers. – Matt Sorrell

T RULY FLORA L S P IRIT S St. Louis, trulyfloral.com Truly Floral stepped onto the local spirits stage this year with its Truly Floral Blue gin, distilled by Distillery of Defiance and named for the colorful array of botanicals used to create it. Co-owners Kelley Hall-Barr and Ian VanDam originally made some small-batch gin for their store, Civil Alchemy, in 2018. Demand took off, and the rest is history. Look for a pink gin coming early this fall.

1 220 S P IRITS 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 1220spirits.com From the minds behind 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 takes a similarly inventive approach to its spirits. The distillery, founded in 2018, uses a variety of fruits, herbs and spices to create unique drams, including Encrypted Vodka, Origin Gin, Barrel Reserve Gin, Spettro Amaro, Flora Aperitif and a line of canned cocktails.

RIGHT EOUS ROAD C RAF T S P IRIT S St. Louis, 314.800.1026, righteousroad.com Righteous Road debuted in St. Louis this year with its Righteous Seven liqueur, a kosher tipple that incorporates the biblical seven

Guide to Drinking 2019

species representing the bounty of Israel: wheat, barley, olives, dates, figs, pomegranates and grapes. The spirits community has found Righteous Seven heavenly too. The liqueur won double gold at both the SIP Awards and the San Francisco World Spirits competition this year.

ARDENT SPIRITS 115 E. Clay St., Collinsville, 618.855.8027, oldheraldbrewing.com Part of Old Herald Brewing Co. in Collinsville, Ardent began production this year in the former Old Herald newspaper building. Guests can sip Ardent straight or in a variety of cocktails at the brewery restaurant. The distillery’s rum and agave spirit recently medaled at the San Francisco World Spirits competition.

EDELBRAND PURE DI S T I L L I N G Marthasville, 314.282.7528, edelbrandpuredistilling.com Nestled in the countryside outside of Marthasville, Missouri, Edelbrand is the epitome of the small, familyowned and -operated distillery. Edelbrand produces European-style fruit brandies utilizing traditional Swiss distilling methods. The spirits are most definitely small batch: The distillery only puts out about 1,200 bottles a year.

Nobletons Distilling House, Beaufort, 314.252.8990, nobletons.com There’s a new rum in town. Learn about Nobletons Distilling House and its founder, Demetrius Cain’s obsession with perfection on p. 25.

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SPONSORED CONTENT

ROU N D TR IP

These flights never leave St. Louis BY LAUREN HEALEY

Cocktail and spirit flights are experiencing a resurgence in popularity around town, particularly because they offer a great way to try something new without committing to a full drink.

otherwise spend the full pour amount for and also to compare side by side,” Edwards said. “It’s a new way to understand and appreciate the complexity and depth of whiskey.”

Typically a series of three half-pours, flights are often designed with a progressive or educational goal in mind. Some may begin with moderate tipples, moving into more robust flavors, while other flights may simply be put together in a way to demonstrate the differences between similar spirits or cocktails.

At the Angad Arts Hotel, beverage director Meredith Barry is serving up some spectacular martini flights.

“Right now, we offer seven different whiskey flights, but we can build new flights specifically for guests if they talk to us about what they’re interesting in trying,” said Ray Edwards, bar program manager at Boundary. “Scotches absolutely do not taste the same, so we want people to understand the different mash bills, how it’s aged and so on.”

“Currently, one has Hendrick’s original gin, one has Orbium and the other has the Midsummer Solstice,” Barry said. “We have a really creative serve with these cute, little glasses and bowls that people are wowed by. They are just excited to order technically only one drink but get three different flavor experiences.” Flights can also be an effective way to order beverages for your entire meal, particularly if you choose lighter drinks in the beginning and go bolder as the meal progresses. “Our digestif flight is wonderful after dinner, but our Hendrick’s and wine flights are approachable across the entire meal,” said Olivia Vitale, general manager of Oaked in Soulard. “We love giving our guests an opportunity to compare and contrast things of a similar nature and experience something they may be familiar with, but enhanced in a new way.” At Small Batch, general manager Nikki Brown recommends different flights for various fare.

At Boundary, Balvenie and Glenfiddich single malt scotch whiskies are top of the line, offering a range of flavor profiles within a single expression. Balvenie 12 Year Doublewood is finished in Olorosso sherry casks, but the 14 Year is finished in Caribbean rum casks. And Glenfiddich SMSW moves from light fleshy fruits and citrus with its 12 Year to bold, sweet American oak with the 14 Year and back to darker, rich fruits with the famed 15 Year Solera Reserve. “Flights allow you try something you might not

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“I recommend a lighter bourbon with our charcuterie board,” she said. “With a bolder dish such as the rigatoni, the rye flight would be an excellent choice, as the spiciness of the ryes can stand up to a hearty dish. As for dessert, I recommend the scotch flight. Or simply a pour of your favorite.” Known for their cocktail programs, havens like Planter’s House in Lafayette Square and Taste in the Central West End also boast incredible spirits lists. Chat with their bartenders about what you’re looking for, and they will cater specific flights to your taste. And if you’re confused about where to start on your journey, don’t be afraid to ask for help: A well-trained professional can always help you navigate the skies.

PHOTOS BY ED ALLER

Above: Martini flight at Angad Arts Hotel Right: Glennfiddich flight at Boundary

Guide to Drinking 2019

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T R E N D W A T C H guide to drinking edition BY CATHERINE KLENE AND MATT SORRELL

SEASONAL GIN Local and national distillers are releasing seasonal gins that highlight the floral, botanical and herbal notes of spring, summer or fall. Earlier this year, Hendrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s created Midsummer Solstice with notes of lemon zest, orange and flowers, while Leopold Bros.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; seasonal features notes of blood orange and lemon myrtle. Locally, 1220 Spirits released a spring gin that lent drinks a violet hue thanks to butterfly pea flower, and Webster Groves-based Truly Floral has plans to release seasonally inspired gin soon.

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Guide to Drinking 2019

fitness beers

Replenishing your body with a cold beer after a hard workout is a staple of many fitness regimes, and there have even been some scientific studies to back up the practice. Michelob Ultra was one of the first to aggressively market its beer toward athletes. Now, more breweries are putting out brews specifically designed for the workout set. Sufferfest Beer Co. out of San Francisco offers a trio of styles – pale ale, Kölsch and Pilsner – for thirsty athletes. Earlier this year, local NA brewer Wellbeing Brewing Co. introduced Victory Citrus Wheat, an alcohol-free brew enriched with electrolytes, vitamins, protein and antioxidants.

We’ve mentioned this exponential trend in previous issues, but modern drinkers continue to get more serious about managing their booze quotients. One of the latest low-alcohol trends is the rise of hard seltzers, which combine spirits and bubbles for a low-ABV, low-calorie tipple. From the folks who brought you Mike’s Hard Lemonade, White Claw has been at the crest of the spiked seltzer wave this year, outselling nearly all craft beer brands, according to numerous reports. And Neilsen data shows overall hard seltzer sales are up 200 percent from last year. Other brands making inroads include Bon & Viv Spiked Seltzer, Truly Hard Seltzer, Smirnoff Spiked Sparkling Seltzer and Henry’s Hard Sparkling Water, among many others.

hard seltzers

mexican lagers

The craft beer scene is obsessed with lagers right now, and many are looking south of the border to inspire these Corona-esqe creations. Mexican lagers – essentially Vienna-style lagers inspired by the flavors of Mexico – are light, crisp and endlessly crushable. Mission Taco Joint commissioned 4 Hands Brewing Co. to create Vigilante, an amber Mexican lager only available at the St. Louis-area taquerías. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Castaña Urbana features notes of blue corn, while Ferguson Brewing Co.’s take on the style is served with or without a lime wedge. Excel Brewing Co.’s spring seasonal El Pistolero is a darker amber lager made with a yeast strain from a Mexican brewery. O’Fallon Brewery consulted the experts when they collaborated with Monterrey, Mexico-based Cerveza Rrey to create Cerveza Amigos with hints of lime and hibiscus tea.

canned local cold brew

First, wine hit aluminum, then cocktails. Now, local coffee roasters are canning their best cold brews. Sump Coffee kicked off the trend in April, using 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s canning line to package its singleorigin cold brew. In July, Kaldi’s launched its canned Haya Cold Brew, and Coma Coffee recently released its wee 8-ounce cans of single-origin coffee sourced from Cauca, Colombia.

Guide to Drinking 2019

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Gunn’s, and he wanted a beer from us that paid remembrance to their late son, Ollie,” explained Phil Wymore, Perennial co-owner and brewmaster. “This style is versatile and light enough to be food friendly with enough substance to stand on its own.” Perennial also does a festbier lager called Brew for the Crew for Farmhaus, as well as a Belgian-style Dubbel called Dubbel Block for The Block. In addition to having a full-service meat counter, The Block offers a meat-forward menu, making it a good candidate for a more aggressive beer. Wymore and his team were up to the challenge. “[Co-chef] Brian Doherty wanted a beer that would really stand up to the heartiness of some of their dishes, as well as their desserts,” Wymore said. “This beer is fermented on dates to give it an extra-rich mouthfeel.” 2nd Shift Brewing has long partnered with Mission Taco Joint to create Sub-Mission IPA. “We wanted to create a beer that represented the West Coast,” said 2nd Shift operations manager Michael Sweeney, adding that Mission owners Adam and Jason Tilford grew up in California. “We used a hop blend in that one. It’s really nice, really citrusy, really reminiscent of the old-school West Coast IPAs. The malt base is very clean.”

PE R F EC T PA I R I N G S IMAGE COURTESY OF JAKE HUBER

BY ADAM ROTHBARTH

Sometimes you just want a beer to go smoothly with what you’re about to eat, whether it’s a cheeseburger, a green salad or a complex seafood dish. Fortunately, some St. Louis breweries have made the ordering process easier by working directly Guide to Drinking 2019

with local restaurants to create beers that beautifully complement the food they’re served alongside. Perennial Artisan Ales does a number of custom brews, including one for Olive + Oak, a restaurant that serves everything from prime steak tartare to carrot-dill soup to fried green tomatoes and dover sole. The beer is a heavily dryhopped, hazy pale ale called Ollie. “[Perennial co-founder] Emily [Wymore] and I have been good friends with [Olive + Oak owner] Mark Hinkle since his days at Annie

Naturally, the beer is best paired with tacos. Back when they were still bottling the beer in-house, Sweeney said, they actually had the recommendation on the bottle. “IPAs typically do really well with spicy foods. They tend to cut through the spiciness, so having that little bit of bitterness actually helps,” he said. “I recommend it with any kind of dish that has a kick to it. It definitely goes great with the ancho sauce.” Rockwell Beer Co.’s Yellowbelly, a dry-hopped lager, is made for the eponymous, colorful Central West End seafood restaurant. Hoppy and floral, but still crisp and light, the Yellowbelly beer goes with basically

anything on the restaurant’s menu – and that’s by design. “It’s a pale lager that we hopped with Wakatu and Motueka hops from New Zealand,” said Jonathan Moxey, Rockwell’s head brewer. “What’s cool about those hops is that they’ve got some German lineage, so you get a bit of the traditional floral, spicy aroma that you’d expect with a German hop.” Why does it work so well? “The New Zealand hops give a vibrant, citrusy flavor,” Moxey said. “It’s just really bright. It’s something I would think about drinking with the food they’re serving there, whether grilled or raw fish. [We brewed] something versatile that would go really well with that type of food.” Moxey said Yellowbelly owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins have been big supporters of the brewery since its early days, so the partnership just made sense. Full disclosure: This beer is hard to find because it runs out quickly, but Moxey promises it’ll be back.

BUY IT Olive + Oak 102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com

Farmhaus 3267 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

The Block 146 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.918.7900, theblockrestaurant.com

Mission Taco Joint multiple locations, missiontacojoint.com

Yellowbelly 4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.499.1509, yellowbellystl.com

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a whole new old world wine B Y

K R I S T I N

S C H U L T Z

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Guide to Drinking 2019

t’s time to switch off your wineshopping autopilot, skip the chardonnay, and set your sights on a new cluster of European grapes that have put down roots in the United States. Four lesser-known white varietals from Spain, Austria and France are flourishing in the vineyards of the Northwest and New York’s Finger Lakes region, offering a pleasant yet accessible departure from your go-to bottle. While our Continental counterparts have long quaffed albariño, grüner veltliner, chenin blanc and sémillon, American growers have seen the most success with big, oaky chardonnay and easy-drinking riesling. Now, however, domestic vintners are capturing the adventurous spirit of the modern wine drinker and creating off-the-beaten-path wines for an audience thirsty for something new. “It’s a whole different generation of wine drinkers,” said Patricia Wamhoff, advanced sommelier and certified wine educator. “They’re more knowledgeable and open to trying new things.” To give this new breed of vino-wise imbibers a glass of something different, winemakers are also trying new things and taking advantage of their land and weather. “The third-wave producers in California are super exciting,” said Juliette Dottle, sommelier and assistant general manager at Elmwood. “It’s a swing to a local focus. They’re working with their microclimates, and [California] has every soil type, so they’re not constrained.” This quartet of grapes is not commonly aged, so they all boast a young, fresh quality. They also pair well with food due to higher acidity. From the shores of Saranac Lake in New York to the hills of Lodi, California, winemakers are putting a new crop of white wines in the spotlight.

Guide to Drinking 2019

SÉMILLON

GRÜNER VELTLINER

“It’s peachy with candied citrus [notes],” said Dottle. “It has a nice texture that makes it food friendly.”

“It has this green, vegetal quality that comes off as tender pea shoots,” Blackwell-Calvert said. “It is unique but has qualities you find in regular varietals.”

Sémillon is a golden-skinned, full-bodied white that ages well, and you can often find it blended with sauvignon blanc. Its neutral character and clean flavor make it an excellent companion to most dishes. EUROPEAN ROOTS France ON AMERICAN SOIL California S O M M E L I E R S WA P If you like sauvignon blanc, shake it up with sémillon. V I N E YA R D O F N OT E Little Frances, Lake County, California

ALBARIÑO “The nose is deceiving,” Wamhoff said. “[The nose] is of just-ripe peaches, but the taste is crisp and tart with green apple and citrus.” This high-acidity varietal thrives in cool, breezy locales. Without the warm, buttery notes of oak (which it rarely touches), albariño is bright, fruity and dry. “It is versatile and can pair with almost everything,” said Alisha Blackwell-Calvert, certified sommelier at Elaia. EUROPEAN ROOTS Spain, Portugal (alvarhino in that neck of the woods) ON AMERICAN SOIL California, Oregon S O M M E L I E R S WA P If you like pinot grigio, try albariño. V I N E YA R D O F N OT E Bokisch Vineyards, Lodi, California

It has mineral underpinnings but is soft and juicy with a touch of spiciness. Grüner veltliner may be Austria’s grape, but you don’t have to climb every mountain to find this food-friendly wine that can also stand on its own. EUROPEAN ROOTS Nearly one-third of all grapes grown in Austria are grüner veltliner. ON AMERICAN SOIL New York, California, Oregon S O M M E L I E R S WA P If you like sauvignon blanc, give grüner veltliner a go. V I N E YA R D O F N OT E Hermann J. Wiemer, Himrod, New York

CHENIN BLANC “Chenin blanc is one of my favorite French grapes grown domestically,” Blackwell-Calvert said. “When it’s grown in California, it’s riper with fresh apple and more floral flavors [than French-grown grapes].” This highly acidic wine is rooted in the Loire Valley in France but, as it turns out, is equally suited to the Napa Valley. “It’s food friendly and has this crunchy, green apple note and a lanolin texture,” Dottle said. EUROPEAN ROOTS France ON AMERICAN SOIL California S O M M E L I E R S WA P If you like unoaked chardonnay, trade it out for chenin blanc. V I N E YA R D O F N OT E Peter Franus, Napa, California

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H I G H B A L L I N ' BY M AT T S O R R E L L / / P H O T O S BY I Z A I A H J O H N S O N

LEMONGRASS SHOCHU WITH HIBISCUS HIGHBALL AT T H E B AO

order highballs here The Blue Ocean, 6335 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.6477, blueoceanstl.com The Bao, 14 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.899.9089, thebaostl.com Juniper, 4101 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com

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Guide to Drinking 2019

Basically just spirits and soda, highballs are a bartender’s best friend during a busy shift. But these refreshing concoctions are not only simple – when made with care and attention, they can also be surprisingly sublime. Classic cocktail tomes The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks by David A. Embury and The Savoy Cocktail Book take care in prescribing the exact way to mix the perfect highball. Both say any spirit can be the base (around 2 ounces or so), and Embury specifies the drink should be a long one at 6 ounces or more. Seltzer water is the preferred source of bubbles, though both books grudgingly admit ginger ale or cola may be utilized, and a lemon twist is an acceptable addition. More recently, highballs made a serious, high-end comeback. In The Way of Whisky: A Journey Around Japanese Whisky, esteemed spirits writer Dave Broom relates how Suntory Liquor’s executive officer Tetsu Mizutani began a campaign to increase sales of Kakubin whisky with a highball promotion in Japan during the early 2000s. The marketing idea became a trend that took hold, and Japanese bartenders’ trademark obsession with detail has elevated the humble highball to the realm of art.

the bao beverage manager kira webster

Guide to Drinking 2019

Now, inspired by the Japanese respect for highballs, many top cocktail bars on these shores have started exploring the nuanced marriage of liquor and bubbles. Locally, The Blue Ocean offers a traditional Japanese highball made with Toki whisky, Topo Chico sparkling mineral water, grapefruit and a shiso tincture. At The Bao, lemongrass shochu with hibiscus makes for a refreshing sipper, while Juniper has an entire section of its drinks menu dedicated to highballs, made with spirits ranging from Japanese whisky to vodka. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

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Guide to Drinking 2019

SAYONARA

SAKE!

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

T H E R E ’ S M O R E T O J A PA N E S E DRINKING THAN WHISKY AND SAKE. – MATT SORRELL

TA K A R A SHOCHU JUN

NIKKA COFFEY VO D K A

This clean spirit is made with a selection of grains, including barley and corn, along with molasses. It has citrus notes and light minerality, making it ideal for pairing with food (think oysters) or as a cocktail base replacing vodka or white rum. $14. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

This spirit follows in the footsteps of Nikka’s popular Coffey whisky. Distilled in a traditional Coffey column still from barley and corn and filtered through white birch charcoal, this vodka is smooth, creamy and delicate. $36. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

ROKU GIN

HAKUTSURU PLUM WINE

Japanese for “six,” Roku gin features six botanicals, including cherry blossom leaf and flower, green tea and sansho pepper, cultivated during all four seasons. The result is crisp and clean, well suited to cocktails or sipping with ice or a splash of tonic. $24. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

Guide to Drinking 2019

This tart wine made with the Japanese ume plum is intended as an aperitif or digestif, but it’s flavorful enough to stand up in a cocktail as well. Hakutsuru Royale, anyone? $12. Total Wine & More, 13887 Manchester Road, Town & Country, 636.527.0482, totalwine.com

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PURE SPIRIT one manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quest for unadulterated island rum in missouri

nobletons distilling house founder demetrius cain

BY M AT T S O R R E L L P H OTO S BY I Z A I A H J O H N S O N Guide to Drinking 2019

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Nobletons Distilling House rums are available at Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com

hen Demetrius Cain became enamored with rum about 10 years ago, there wasn’t much to love.

inherent in building a distillery. He had spent time working as a farm and ranch hand and as a welder when he was younger. With the help of friends and family, the Cains built everything themselves. “We kind of pieced everything together because we didn’t have outside investment for purchasing large equipment,” Cain said. “It’s hard when you look at what everybody [with big investors] has, but you lose some of the integrity of the product that way.”

“Back then, you couldn’t find funky Jamaican rums or anything. Pretty much, it was Captain Morgan, Kraken and Bacardi,” Cain said. “There wasn’t much of a variety. Appleton [from Jamaica] was about as good as it got.” So, naturally, the young Kansas City bartender decided to make his own grassroots juice. Knowing there was no way he could afford to hire someone to do the legwork, he researched all the regulatory issues and sifted through mountains of paperwork and red tape. More important, he studied distilling and fermentation methods essential for a top-notch product.

nstead of investors, Cain brought in his friend, Dan Combest, as a partner to help develop and maintain product control. Combest has a doctorate in chemical engineering, which helps a lot when it comes to consistency.

Rum production is more Wild West than many other spirits. There are traditions, but not a lot of rules. With few hard requirements for designation, the spirit varies widely in quality and ingredients. “I think too often rum gets a bad rap for being a sweet spirit, when in actuality it doesn’t come out sweet,” Cain said. “It’s the postprocessing that makes it sweet – they call it dosing or sugaring. Our aged rum tastes like whiskey because there’s no sugar in it.” After a couple years experimenting with

molasses and molasses-cane blends, Cain decided to pursue the French style of rum, which uses sugarcane juice. He switched to raw sugarcane and took a good two years more to dial in the recipe.

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uring all this time, Cain and his thengirlfriend, now-wife Laura Cain moved back to her native St. Louis. The climate was right for aging spirits, and the laws were favorable for aspiring distillers. In early

2018, the couple bought a farm in Beaufort, Missouri, and Nobletons Distilling House had a home.

Nobletons uses a single cognac still, a hybrid of pot and column stills, to produce all of its spirits. “One still and lots of batches,” Cain said. Everything that comes off that still is unadulterated with no added sugar or color. Everything is done onsite, including aging in American white oak, finishing in French oak, bottling and labeling.

Originally from Oregon, Cain was uniquely suited for many of the tasks

“He does a lot that no one else does,” said Retreat Gastropub and Yellowbelly co-owner Guide to Drinking 2019

Guide to Drinking 2019

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cain working in his distillery [Foursquare’s] products – we think they’re some of the best in the world,” Cain said.

Tim Wiggins. “He ages his water that he then dilutes the distillate with, which is super strange. I don’t know if anyone else does that. He uses dunder management, which is exclusive to Jamaica, really – wild that he’s doing that in Missouri. He’s a wild man.”

ll the hard work came to fruition in March 2019 when Nobletons’ first Duckett rum, named after Cain’s grandfather, hit the market. This unaged white rum was soon followed by 6-month and 1-year versions. More recently, Cain started making curaçao with a recipe he got from a family of distillers on the island of Curaçao itself utilizing laraha peels, the bitter orange fruit used in authentic curaçao.

Wiggins was the first person outside the Nobletons fold to sample Cain’s rum. “It was probably eight months ago that he came in with a bottle of his rum,” Wiggins said. “He was like ‘I made it agricole-style.’ And I was like, ‘No you didn’t. Who are you and why are you lying?’ But he actually did it – and it’s really good.”

“My favorite of his is the gold. It’s like the perfect cocktail rum: super dry, mildly spicy, super clean, with no sweetness,” Wiggins said. “A lot of rums have the same flavor profile but too much sweetness, so they throw everything out of balance.”

rom the start, Cain has done things his way, from using dunder (the acidic leavings of the distillation process that are added to subsequent batches to help jumpstart fermentation like sour mash in whiskey) to producing everything he sells.

Duckett Golden Rhum, aged exclusively on French oak, will be released this month. Not one to sit back and relax, Cain said he’s also working on a few new liqueurs, as well as some rums finished in sherry casks. Nobletons just started distribution via local company Vintegrity, so fans should have no problem getting their fix around town and beyond.

“We don’t source a single drop of alcohol from anybody, and we do everything from start-up fermentation all the way through maturation and bottling,” Cain said. “Even though it’s the hardest way possible, we want to make something any St. Louisan can pick up and say, ‘This was made here.’” Nobletons spirits could technically be considered rhum agricole, the French term for rum made with cane juice, and Cain uses the spelling ‘rhum’ on some labels to indicate the products’ inspiration, but

he won’t use ‘agricole’ out of respect. “We wanted to focus on following the traditions of the islands, but we’re not trying to be an island rhum,” he said. “Rhum

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agricoles should be made in the French Caribbean. To us, that’s what it stands for.”

Foursquare Rum Distillery, has been an important exemplar and adviser.

Cain said Richard Seale, the force behind Barbados’

“We really look up to him and respect the heck out of

Nobletons Distilling House nobletons.com

Guide to Drinking 2019

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AU NAT U R E L Characterized by organic growth and low intervention, natural wine is a trend gripping many local institutions and consumers. “Natural wine is a category that isn’t for everyone; it’s a wild animal,” said Brian Hobbs, owner of Chateau Maplewood. “But you know it’s made with as little manipulation as possible.” Here’s what a few local experts had to say about their current favorite bottles. – Adam Rothbarth 2017 VATER & SOHN SILVANER TROCKEN

2018 STIRM LOS CHUCHAQUIS METHODE ANCESTRALE ALBARIÑO

Chateau Maplewood: $15 “This is a Silvaner from Germany. It’s in the same vein as like a riesling, so you have those petrol, mineral notes to it. Really nice citrus, nice herbal complexity to it. Great, long finish. It’s a really pretty one.” – Chateau Maplewood owner Brian Hobbs

Vicia: $50 “This is made in ancestral method/ pétillant naturel. Elegant, lighter bubbles. Unrefined and unfiltered. It reminds me of salty lemonade. What’s more refreshing and food friendly than that? If you have a wine drinker, a cocktail drinker and a beer drinker sitting at the same table, this would be a catchall.” – Kara Flaherty, sommelier and beverage director, Vicia

get your naturals here

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2016 MAÎTRE DE CHAI S TA M P E D E Z I N FA N D E L Elmwood: $75 “This one is so clearly from California with the beautiful ripeness and opulent fruit, but it has this really great underlying spice to it and earthiness. It pairs great if it’s a cold day and you’re eating some comfort food.” – Juliette Dottle, sommelier and assistant general manager, Elmwood

2018 FIELD RECORDINGS BLANC DE FRANC Elmwood: $52 “We’ve been really into pét-nats [pétillant-naturels] over at Elmwood. It’s got a little bit of a softer bubble. It’s not super foamy. It’s just really clean and crisp and a great aperitif. It’s a really great way to start a meal.” – Dottle

Guide to Drinking 2019

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Chateau Maplewood 7326 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0105, chateaumaplewood.com Elmwood 2704 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.261.4708, elmwoodstl.com Vicia 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com

Guide to Drinking 2019

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