tacos at taco circus, p. 10
10 REASONS TO EAT AT TACO CIRCUS NOW
GUIDE TO DRINKING (FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER)
W I N N I N G
R E V I E W
P L A N T - B A S E D
W I N G S
HOFBR ÄUHAUS
COMFORT FOOD
P. 31
P. 25
P. 35
ST.2018 LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY September
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SEPTEMBER 2018 • VOLUME 18, ISSUE 9 What are you drinking these days?
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER SENIOR DESIGNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS I’m drinking anything gin, from martinis to a G&T with tonic syrup. I’m obsessed.
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS
Allyson Mace Soju. It’s such a popular spirit Meera Nagarajan internationally, but not Heather Hughes in the U.S. I’m very Catherine Klene curious about it. Matt Sorrell Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Natalie Archer, Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Lauren Healey, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Rebecca Koenig, Marianne Moore, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Kristin Schultz, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Natalie Archer, Sam Balmer, Nora ChapinEppert, Quinn Wilson
Aperol spritz or an APA. I’m a simple girl.
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2018 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 September 2018
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contents SEPTEMBER 2018
editors' picks
dine & drink
features
9 E AT THIS
27 A SE AT AT THE BAR
31
BBQ nachos at Big Baby Q by catherine klene
Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
by matt sorrell
10
by glenn bardgett, katie herrera, and ted and jamie kilgore
Taco Circus
28 ELIXIR
10 REASONS TO TRY by heather hughes 13
by lauren healey, heather hughes, catherine klene and meera nagarajan
reviews 19 N E W AN D NOTABLE Simba Ugandan Restaurant
by michael renner
Colleen’s
by matt berkley 25
NIGHTLIFE Hofbräuhaus St. Louis
by stephanie zeilenga
P L A N T- B A S E D COMFORT FOOD by marianne moore
by katie herrera COVER DETAILS
last course 42 STUFF TO DO by natalie archer 44 WHAT I D O Matt Longueville
by catherine klene
22
LUNCH RUSH
35
Roll with Radlers
HIT LIST 6 places to try this month
WINNING WINGS
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air to discuss the must-try new restaurants on the monthly Hit List.
10 Reasons to Eat at Taco Circus Now From the house-made sauces to the killer al pastor, turn to p. 10 to learn why you should join the circus. Flip the magazine over to see the Guide to Drinking. Local bartenders keep the party going with low- and no-ABV cocktails. Read more about sessionable drinking on p. 31. Also in this year’s guide: How Yellowbelly is upping St. Louis' tiki game and why American wines are better than ever. PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
goat curry and roasted pork at simba p. 19
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e d i t o r s' p i c k s
EAT THIS Normally, we’d scoff at anyone who told us to order nachos at a standout barbecue restaurant, but the BBQ NACHOS at BIG BABY Q AND SMOKEHOUSE are no ordinary pile of chips and cheese. A mountain of corn tortilla chips form a sturdy base for an avalanche of gooey pepper jack queso, stringy shredded cheddar, housePHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
smoked baked beans, a dollop of chipotle sour cream and sweet-spicy candied jalapenos. Add your meat of choice (we’re partial to the tender, smoke-kissed turkey) and a deluge of the Sweet N Spicy house sauce to cut through that cheese, then grab a friend and about 400 napkins to begin your ascent.
September 2018
11658 DORSETT ROAD, MARYLAND HEIGHTS, 314.801.8888, BIGBABYQ.COM
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6 The chilaquiles: a pile of tortilla chips layered with grilled chicken thigh simmered in tomatillo salsa, sour cream, guacamole, refried beans, cilantro, onions, Monterey Jack cheese and three sunny eggs
1 Nothing warms the heart more than a self-serve refrigerator of house-made hot sauces.
2 The Al Pastor de Taco Circus is nothing like the dry, neon pellets of pork that may have disappointed you elsewhere. Tender cubes of Missouri-raised meat, marinated with paprika, oregano, garlic and onion, are sauteed to order and topped with fresh pineapple pico de gallo on tortillas. It’s not traditional. You won’t care.
7 Start with the Cardinal Queso, and you won’t be disappointed you can’t finish your meal. A large bowl of queso blanco is topped with ground beef in a fiery New Mexico red chile sauce, beans, salsa and optional guacamole that shouldn’t be optional.
3 Ethridge does not mess around with shortcuts, as evidenced by his personal recipe for chili powder.
Taco Circus 4258 Schiller Place, St. Louis, 314.320.8884, tacocircus.com
TA C O CIRCUS R I G H T
N O W
Taco Circus is a Texan transplant’s dream. Sweating it out on a late-summer day, sitting at colorful picnic tables propped up on bricks to compensate for an uneven sidewalk, you could be scarfing tacos on the east side of Austin instead of Morgan Ford Road in Bevo. Chef-owner Christian Ethridge serves up incredible food at affordable prices with minimal help. Here are 10 reasons you’ll want to shake that man’s hand. – Heather Hughes
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4 But he knows when to accept an advantage, too. Ethridge occasionally pairs up with The Stellar Hog for rich and fall-apart tender, Texas-worthy brisket tacos.
5 Taco Circus’ corn tortillas aren’t doubled up because they don’t have to be. While some paperthin discs tear at every fold, these hold strong because Ethridge par-cooks them to release steam and sprays them with oil to make them more flexible.
9 The tomatillo cream, a spicy, creamy green hot sauce, is everything – dangerously hot with a fresh, vegetal, chili flavor that brings a lot more than heat.
10 Taco Circus does some serious catering business, which means you can win your next party with trays and trays of taco gold.
September 2018
INTRO PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; THUMBNAILS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN
10 REASONS TO JOIN THE
8 The chicken thighs are more like rotisserie than the stringy shredded white meat that sometimes passes as taco-worthy. They’re remarkably flavorful and super moist.
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hit list
6 new places to try this month
CINDER HOUSE
PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Gerard Craft has moved into the Four Seasons Hotel downtown, and we’re more than happy about it. His South American-inspired Cinder House replaced Cielo on the eighth floor of the hotel with a swank remodel including the impressive Arch-adjacent balcony. Enjoy the view with a starter of Dia’s cheese bread, aka pao de queijo, a Brazilian cheese roll with a heavenly, stretchy texture. Served with prosciutto, lardo and pickled shallots, it is surprisingly filling, but don’t let that stop you from ordering the coxhina, croquettes filled with grilled chicken and cheese, served with a rich and tangy aji amarillo sauce. The super savory and moist grilled lamb ribs are another standout, but try to save some room for an entree. A parade of steaks benefit from a range of South American sauces beyond the excellent chimichurri, and the moqueca fish stew, a Brazilian staple, is not to be missed – a medley of seafood including whole prawns, meaty snapper and octopus is doused tableside by a carafe of spiced coconut milk-based broth.
Four Seasons St. Louis, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cinderhousestl.com
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7120 Montclaire Ave., Godfrey, Illinois, 618.433.9748, bakershale.com
Mike Eagan is turning out topnotch hot dogs in an equally unpretentious space. The counter-service eatery serves a small menu of dressed-up dogs that start with all-beef franks from local purveyor Red Hot Lou. Toppings are generous, but don’t overwhelm the beefy flavor. We’re partial to the Polish sausage topped with fried potato, sauerkraut, caramelized onion and spicy honey mustard, or the Old Mexico with adobo sauce, queso fresco, a black bean-corn relish, jalapenos for kick and a drizzle of chipotle aioli. A cup of Mike’s Texas-style (meaning mostly beef and few beans) chili is perfect with a sprinkling of raw onion and cheese or for the makings of a classic chili dog.
MIKE'S HOT DOGS, SOUPS AND SANDWICHES
7293 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.776.9225, mikeshotdogsstl.com
Boba teas make up the bulk of the menu in this minimalist sweets shop. The taro milk tea, a lavender-colored drink with boba was satisfyingly sweet, and we couldn’t resist the Oreo milk tea with crushed cookies nestled among the tapioca bubbles. Those up to date on Asian food trends will want to order a cheese tea – surprisingly delicious, topped with a dollop of whipped cream cheese. Check out the other dessert options, like a colossal piece of toast with ice cream, whipped cream and fresh fruits in a variety of flavors, from matcha to chocolate, or the mixed berries maple syrup waffle with a drizzle of maple syrup along with fresh strawberries, strawberry ice cream and whipped cream.
Of the dozen CONES house-made ice & CUPS creams at this neighborhood spot, five are vegan. Try the dairy-free options like Oreo cookie with a coconut base – it tastes just like a Caramel DeLite Girl Scout cookie – or the pineapple coconut, which has a smooth, sweet base studded with chunks of real fruit. The dairy-full praline pecan is particularly rich with a nice contrasting crunch of nuts. Get creative and mix more than one flavor – we loved the caramel and coffee ice creams in a heavenly shake – to enjoy on the peaceful patio.
9628 Olive Blvd., Olivette, 314.279.1350, sharesweetstl.com
2800 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0052
SHARED SWEET
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the smoked chicken legs at bakers & hale
seared scallops at bakers & hale
from left, cinder house consulting chef gerard craft and executive sous chef michael fricker coxinha from the south american-inspired menu at cinder house
It takes guts for an out-ofHOPCAT state brewpub chain to take on a city as sudsy as St. Louis, but Michiganbased HopCat delivers at its newest location on The Loop. Nearly 100 taps flow with mostly Missouri brews. The rotating list is littered with local favorites like Earthbound Beer and Perennial Artisan Ales, as well as outof-state breweries like Prairie Artisan Ales and Against the Grain. Take your brew out to the beer garden for backyard vibe straight out of South City. Adirondack chairs ring a large fire pit and strings lights glow above coloful four-tops and long wooden picnic tables. Pair your pour with HopCat’s famous Crack Fries, dusted with salt, black pepper and just a hint of sugar and accompanied by a gooey, house-made cheese sauce. Larger appetites can dig into Detroit-style pizzas, your own personal square of edge-to-edge cheesy goodness, and when cool weather finally arrives, we’ll hit that fire pit with a bowl of hearty vegetarian five-bean chili and a roasty stout.
6315 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.582.3201, hopcat.com/st-louis
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
When Rex Hale left his longtime BAKERS & HALE position as Boundary’s executive chef to open his own place with friend and colleague Kelsi Baker Walden, we knew we’d make the drive out to Godfrey. Bakers & Hale is a farm-to-table restaurant with a substantial working garden and plans to expand. Most of the ingredients are grown onsite or sourced within a 50-mile radius. There is a massive patio and bar area, but you’ll want to sit in the dining room to see what the kitchen can do (otherwise you’ll only have access to the bar menu). Start with an order of satisfying pecan pesto-white bean-green chili dip, served with thick house-made tortilla chips. Then take your pick from the seasonal plates like the smoked chicken legs with peach-chili glaze served over sweet corn and grilled summer squash, or the beautiful seared scallop dish with three large scallops nestled in a bed of chopped summer squash, corn, tomato and lemon verbena.
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
goat curry and rice at simba
NE W A ND N OTA B L E
simba ugandan restaurant BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JONSHON
Jonathan Gold would have loved Simba, the 7-month-old Ugandan restaurant with a backstory as powerful as its goat curry’s flavors. The brilliant, baggy Los Angeles restaurant critic, who died in July from pancreatic cancer at 57, championed restaurants like Simba: small, under-the-radar spots, usually in a nondescript strip mall, run by hard-working families cooking the food of whatever country they left.
n e w a n d n o t a b l e S I M B A p . 1 9 / l u n c h r u s h C O L L E E N ' S p . 2 2 / n i g h t l i f e H O F B R Ă„saucemagazine.com U H A U S S T. I LSAUCE O U I MAGAZINE S p . 2 5 I 19
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explains the mélange of complex flavors in Simba’s goat curry – rosemary and thyme with notes of ginger, garlic, cumin and clove, all infused with a subtle pepperiness. A roasted long simmer in a dark, pork at aromatic sauce with simba tomatoes, potatoes and onions mellows the natural gaminess of the goat meat. Rice with peas, carrots and warm, savory cabbage delicately spiced with vinegar and pepper is served alongside. If there is better goat curry in St. Louis, I haven’t had it.
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
For Christine Mukulu Sseremba, the country was Uganda, where she worked as an actress before starting a company that overhauled old computers to train women and poor students in information technology. Her problems began when President Yoweri Museveni’s brother wanted Sseremba’s company’s prime location. He seized her land, destroying the building, her livelihood and her life in Uganda. Fearing for her safety, Sseremba fled to the U.S. with her family in 2011 and gained asylum four years later. It’s the kind of story fit for Italian opera: hope, jealousy, danger, subterfuge, despair, heroism and, finally, redemption. Cooking was Sseremba’s redemption. Always an avid home cook, she started preparing Ugandan food for her St. Louis church, then local international festivals and then in her
AT A GLANCE simba ugandan restaurant September 2018
Simba offers a couple sambusas and some grilled chapati like those sold on the streets of Uganda’s capital city, Kampala. The former – flaky, puffy triangles stuffed with minced beef, vegetables, aromatics and spices (also available without meat) – are similar to the samosas of other countries, and just as addictively delicious. Chapati, a flaky, unleavened flatbread good for soaking up curries and sauces, also comes wrapped around the classic Ugandan street snack, rolex – a thinly rolled omelet consisting of nothing more than eggs, cabbage, onion and tomato that lived up to its haughty moniker. Sseremba said it came from vendors hyping the snack as classy, like a Rolex. Another story goes that visitors misinterpreted street vendors calling out “rolled eggs” as “rolex,” but who knows?
own restaurant, Olive Green International Cuisine, in Jeffrey Plaza. Last year, Sseremba and her sons, George Knudsen and Majesty Mukulu, closed Olive Green to open Simba across the street in the building once occupied by Taqueria La Monarca. Uganda’s history of British colonialism, which brought imported spices and many conscripted Indian laborers to build railroads in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,
Where 8531 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.475.5630, Facebook: Simba Ugandan Restaurant
Don’t-Miss Dishes Roasted chicken, pork ribs, goat curry
Roasted chicken is a worldwide favorite, but Simba’s is my new infatuation. With its peppery, crackling skin rubbed with dry herbs, spices and slivers of caramelized onions and green peppers scattered about, it’s bound to be yours. Rather than the advertised fries, the two generous leg portions thankfully came atop a bed of pilau (a Ugandan cross between pilaf and fried rice), dark and savory with spices and diced vegetables. Kachumbali (a common East African salad of tomato, onion, garlic, green pepper and parsley) added refreshing brightness on the side.
Vibe Cultural touchstones, African music videos and bright colors animate an otherwise spare space.
Pilau and kachumbali accompanied other entrees, including pan-fried beef (nyama nsiike) and roasted pork ribs (mbizi enjokye). It wasn’t the beef that made nyama nsiike so satisfying – bite-sized pieces of chuck roast made tender by fat and a careful saute – but the incredible flavor of the Ugandan rub consisting of black pepper and warm spices like onion, garlic, cumin, rosemary, cilantro, parsley and soy sauce. I loved the meaty pork ribs, marinated with garlic, onion and ginger and rubbed with another addictive spice blend before dry-roasted to a gnawable chew without drying out. If you also fall in love with the spices, Simba plans to sell its blends after expanding to include a small market section inside the restaurant. Groundnuts, similar to peanuts but from a different legume family, are a staple often made into a sauce for matoke, a variety of green banana indigenous to Uganda. Simba steams these in banana leaves with onion and tomato before pouring on the savory sauce. I’d be lying if I told you it looks appetizing, but the dish was surprisingly flavorful, even for those with less adventuresome palates. Simba doesn’t have a liquor license, but you can bring your own beer, which you may need as you wait an interminable amount of time for dishes to arrive, sometimes in the opposite sequence you ordered (though, when a rolex appetizer arrived at the end of the meal, it was provided gratis). Chalk it up to the small staff, a solo cook or something typical of traditional international restaurants operating on a shoestring; just don’t let the unhurried service deflate the fun you’ll have exploring a new cuisine. It was during one of those waits that I checked my phone and learned of Gold’s death. I like thinking he would have considered Simba’s service lags as the anticipation of something new and delicious rather than an annoyance.
Entree Prices $11 to $18
When Tue. – Sun., 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
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reviews LUNCH RUSH
LUNCH RUSH
colleen’s BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Known for indulgent baked goods, Colleen’s is also one of University City’s best-kept lunch secrets. The cafe has a loyal following of locals who came for the coffee and sugary stuff, but lingered for scratch-made soups, inventive salads and simple but delicious sandwiches. Crystal chandeliers, a long marble-topped bar and a plush tufted couch set an elegant coffeehouse vibe, but there isn’t a hint of pretension from the attentive staff. Here’s what to order at the counter.
CAPRESE SANDWICH BOWL OF GREEN It doesn’t look green, but this Denver-style bowl is packed with green chilies. It has a light and smooth consistency and a lovely flavor akin to zesty tortilla soup. A pork shoulder is slow-cooked six hours before coming together with spicy Anaheim chilies, tomatoes, fresh garlic and cilantro. The savory concoction has a pleasant kick offset by the accompanying flour tortilla – ideal for sopping up every last bite.
Made with thick heirloom tomato slices and silky, smooth buffalo mozzarella, this sandwich manages to be crispy and moist all at once. While not a panini in the strictest sense (it’s toasted in butter on a flattop, not pressed), Colleen’s version is a fabulously gooey mess of cheese and garden-fresh flavors. It utilizes crusty slices of Fazio’s Bakery sourdough and a creamy, garlicky housemade pesto and eats like a folded slice of insanely good Margherita pizza.
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KALE SALAD
TURKEY AVOCADO BLT
The rare trademark of a great salad is the perfect dressing-to-vegetable ratio. This hits that mark with an understated drizzle of zesty lemon-shallot vinaigrette that clings to crunchy shaved kale and roasted Brussels sprouts. The salad is finished with salty, delicate pecorino and a healthy sprinkle of oven-crisped prosciutto for a savory undercurrent.
Generously thick cuts of roasted turkey are as juicy and succulent as Thanksgiving leftovers. Hearty slices of crunchy, smoked Daily’s Premium Meats bacon are tucked under the tasty bird, along with juicy heirloom tomato, generous avocado slices and a slathering of roasted garlic mayo for a double wallop of creaminess. Fazio’s ciabatta, warm and soft on the inside and crisped on a flattop grill, is the perfect delivery vehicle for this satisfying sandwich.
THE DOWNSIDE There were a handful of disappointments, including the Colombiano – a braised beef sandwich that made promises of espressorubbed greatness. While tender and moist, the meat lacked flavor and was easily overwhelmed by dominant roasted red peppers. Instead of the Buffalo cauliflower (a side dish of perfectly good roasted cauliflower that was smothered to death by hot sauce and ranch dressing), opt instead for the mixed greens side, which featured a zingy sweet onion vinaigrette with subtle hits of poppy seeds and Dijon.
Colleen’s 7337 Forsyth Blvd., University City, 314.727.8427, colleenscookies.com
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reviews NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
hofbräuhaus st. louis BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
O
nce upon a time, there was a magical castle across a river where the beer flowed, pretzels and sausages flew out of the kitchen, and polka music oompahed through the night. If that sounds like your kind of
O R D E R T H I S September 2018
fairy tale, make a plan to visit Hofbräuhaus in Belleville. One of a handful of offshoots from the original in Munich, the restaurant and brewery offers a theme park-like Oktoberfest experience year-round – gift shop included.
due to the cavernous space and more so to nightly live music – it can’t help but be loud. A rotating roster of performers flown in from Germany, Austria and other European countries play a combination of popular hits and traditional German drinking songs, complete with cowbells and an alphorn. I found the HofbrÄuhaus transition St. Louis from “Ein 123 St. Eugenie Prosit” to Drive, Belleville, “Desperado” 618.800.2337, a little jarring, hofbrauhausstlouis.com but still fun. Brewed in accordance with the centuries-old German purity law, five beers (a lager, hefeweizen, dunkel and two seasonal options) are available by the liter or half-liter, served in glass steins. The dunkel, a deep caramel color, is malty Calling Hofbräuhaus but not too heavy. The lager, a castle is only a slight which Hofbräuhaus has been exaggeration. The massive brewing for centuries, has dining hall seats 600 with a good malt-hop balance, accommodations for a few making it easy drinking but hundred more on the patio. more flavorful than the average The whole place is outfitted mass-produced American with Bavarian flair, including version. Another centuries-old arched blue and white ceilings, recipe, the hefeweizen has nice long bench seating and a giant fruity notes to complement its German flag backdrop to the wheat-heavy grain bill. stage. Servers wear dirndl and lederhosen. A small selection of wine is also available, as well as cocktails It’s mostly family-friendly, but and shots from the full bar. Fair increasingly raucous as the warning: Shots are delivered night goes on. This is partly
on a wooden paddle and come with a friendly spanking. Additional German drinking traditions occur throughout the night, including patrons standing on their seats for an enthusiastic Prost! On one visit, the band played the U.S. National Anthem – a puzzling intrusion on all the Bavarian merrymaking. The large menu features a smorgasbord of German classics. The three-tiered sampler platter, heaped with sausages, pretzels, potato salad and sauerkraut, is the perfect accompaniment to a liter or two of beer. Any restaurant at this scale will have its drawbacks, and there were some misses with the food. The pretzel, ordered with sides of beer cheese and obatza (in this case, brie mixed with cream cheese, butter and onions), was decent, but the beer cheese appeared to have been sitting a while. The sauerbraten (a marinated pot roast dish) tasted authentic but was a little tough, and the side of spaetzle could have used more seasoning. But considering the size of the operation, everything I tried was pretty solid. It’s hard not to have a good time when there’s live music and liters of classic German beer. An Oktoberfest fantasy, Hofbräuhaus offers a unique chance to celebrate the holiday whenever you want.
Five beers are available by the liter or half-liter in glass steins.
The sampler platter features sausages, pretzels, potato salad and sauerkraut.
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dine
& drink
yeah buoy, an india pale lager, is a great way to transition from summer brews to fall styles.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Monks created Benedictine liqueur more than five centuries ago, but it stands the test of time. Made from 27 spices, Benedictine offers a delicate blend of orange, honey, cinnamon, clove, allspice and light ginger. Enjoy it neat TED AND JAMIE or in an Algonquin: In an iceKILGORE filled shaker, combine 1½ USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart ounces Plantation 3 Stars rum, and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House ½ ounce Benedictine, ½ ounce Giffard blackberry liqueur and ¾ ounce lime juice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a blackberry. $34. Randall’s Wines & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com September 2018
The Donna Laura Ali Toscana IGT 2016 looks expensive, but the Tuscan blend of 90 percent Sangiovese and 10 percent cabernet sauvignon couldn’t be more GLENN BARDGETT affordable. It’s rare to find Member of the Missouri Wine so much lovely grapey, and Grape Board and wine black fruit character with director at Annie Gunn’s soft, easy tannins and a certain “chug-it” quality at such a reasonable price. This unoaked, balanced bottle may be my new home wine. Plan on two glasses, because one won’t be enough. $10. Schnucks, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.965.3094, schnucks.com
Yeah Buoy, a collaboration between Logboat Brewing Co. and 4 Hands Brewing Co., is a great way to transition from sessionable summer brews to more substantial styles. This India pale lager – a hop-forward style with KATIE HERRERA 6.3 percent ABV that boasts Director of beer at STL an assertive bitterness and Barkeep and account manager at Craft Republic complementary graininess from loads of Pilsner malt – is clean, crisp and bursting with juicy tropical fruit, light stone fruit and a resinous dank character that makes your palate water for more. Sixpack: $10. Saint Louis Hop Shop, 2600 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.261.4011, saintlouishopshop.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
*All beers except The Civil Life available at Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com
BEER
ROLL WITH RADLERS BY KATIE HERRERA
Almost 100 years later, these juice-cut brews are resurging in popularity. Radlers and shandies (the English version) are sessionable and foster creativity for brewers and those who want to create their own by combining a light-bodied lager or wheat beer with a fruited beverage.
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Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Big Shark Lemon Radler Leave it to one of the leading German-style breweries in the U.S. to knock it out of the park. In fitting in with the cycling theme, UCBC partnered with Big Shark Bicycle Co. to give St. Louis a flagship Deisenhofen-ian lemon bomb. Four-pack: $8
TW Pitchers Brewing Co. Radler
If grapefruit is the all-star in this lager-juice blend, then an added touch of blood orange juice is the game changer. Inspired by the greats, Stiegl and Schofferhofer, this radler offers a slightly higher ABV at 5.1 percent, citrus brightness and a very balanced grainy lager finish. Six-pack: $9.50
Boulevard Brewing Co. Ginger Lemon Radler This Kansas City warmweather favorite demonstrates that some spice can be nice in the classic style. Zing from fresh ginger juice and a lot of zest from fresh lemon juice balance out a crisp grain character and delicate pale malt sweetness for an excitingly refreshing beer. Six-pack: $8
Left Hand Brewing Peach Beerllini Radler This Bellinitastic sipper proves citrus isn’t required for a killer radler. Juicy peach and a touch of grain on the nose give way to a palate balanced with malt sweetness and a hint of tartness, all amplified by some serious effervescence. Six-pack: $9
The Civil Life Radler
You hold the reins to the blendedto-order Civil Life radler. Try a combination of Sanpellegrino Pompelmo and the house German wheat ale or the Topo Chico Twist of Lime atop a pint of the Vienna lager. It’s my favorite mixture for Sunday Funday. The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com
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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Even if you’re not a fruit-in-your-beer kind of person, there is no denying the refreshing, spritzy relief a radler brings to a hot day. A beer-soda hybrid, the radler was born in the small German town of Deisenhofen outside Munich during the summer of 1922. The story goes that a herd of thirsty bicyclists depleted the beer supply at the local inn, and barkeep Franz Kugler solved the dwindling suds problem by cutting it with lemon soda. Thereafter, the radlermass, or cyclist liter, was the beverage of bike-riders and inn-goers alike.
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WINNING WINGS by matt sorrell // photos by carmen troesser
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mardi gras wings at st. louis wing co.
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thai sweet chili wings at st. louis wing co.
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Chicken wings – those staples of Super Bowl parties and bar menus everywhere – stir up passion and debate like few other foods. The general consensus seems to be that our fascination began in the early 1960s at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York, when a mistaken delivery begat the fried bites served with blue cheese and celery sticks known as Buffalo wings. This provided a fertile base for flavorful experimentation, and local chefs have come up with myriad permutations, from the super simple, dry-rubbed smoked wings at Frankly on Cherokee to the Thai-influenced larb wings at The Bao to the ultra-fried Trashed Wings at Billy G’s Kirkwood. We touched base with area culinarians to see which versions they favor when the wing craving comes.
ST. LOUIS WING CO.
9816 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.962.9464, stlwingco.com When the subject of wings comes up, a lot of area chefs put St. Louis Wing Co. at the top of their lists. “You know when you walk in the door everything is made from scratch,” said Big Baby Q chefowner Ben Welch. No bulk sauces or mystery meat in chef-owner Bobby Tessler’s kitchen. The wings are available regular or boneless with a panoply of flavor options from Ridiculous Ranch to Red Hot Riplets, one of Welch’s gotos. “Bobby is the OG Red Hot Riplets guy.” Welch is also partial to the zesty dry version, which he said highlights the meat without overshadowing it.
THE HIVE
609 N. New Ballas Road, Creve Coeur, 314.569.1769, thehivestlouis.com “It’s the closest you can get to a South City tavern in the ’burbs,” said Nudo House cook Wil Pelly about this Creve Coeur institution. The traditional, straight-ahead wings are available in regular hot, barbecue, naked, dirty (fried, sauced and then baked) versions. “They’re classic hot wings, fried and tossed, with no pretensions, nothing fancy,” Pelly said. “They take you back home.”
SYBERG’S
Multiple locations, sybergs.com Local photographer Corey Woodruff has shot his share of food pics and tried more than his share of wings. For him, Syberg’s
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consistently comes out on top. This local chain has had plenty of practice perfecting its game, serving up signature wings since 1980. There are eight sauces available, but the main object of Woodruff’s affection is Syberg’s Original Famous Sauce – which you can also buy in bottles. “I think it’s a mustard base,” Woodruff said. “Buffalo and barbecue have been done, but this is really interesting. It’s creamy and tangy and completely different.”
she discovered Milo’s grilled wings (fried are also available), which quickly became a staple. Schaaf said the secret is simple: The wings are grilled, tossed in house-made hot sauce and then put back on the grill to lock in the flavor.
O! WING PLUS
Grace Meat & Three chef-owner Rick Lewis is known for whipping up some fine wings himself, and he’s pretty specific about his preferences. “I like wings fried to heck, almost overcooked,” Lewis said, which makes them extra crispy and tender. When he’s not making his own, he likes the wings served at Town Square – particularly the sweet and spicy dry rub version.
10094 Page Ave., Overland, 314.395.0181, owingplus.com According to Guerrilla Street Food co-owner Joel Crespo, this Overland wing shop is a true hidden gem, featuring Asian flavors along with traditional tastes like Buffalo. Crespo said the batter on the O’s Original wing is reminiscent of Korean fried chicken with a caramelized, almost creme brulee texture. “They have a great crunch and flavor with a good balance of heat and sweet.” Crespo’s favorites of the nine varieties available are the Thai chili lime and the Hot Mama. There’s also an ultra-flammable version called Beast Mode, though Crespo confessed, “I couldn’t get past the first one.”
MILO’S BOCCE GARDEN 5201 Wilson Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.0468, milosboccegarden.com
Who would’ve thought a place on The Hill with a menu full of Italian favorites would gain a rep for topnotch wings? “My family all lives on The Hill, so I go there often,” said Rebecca Schaaf, bartender at Reeds American Table. During one trip,
TOWN SQUARE PUB N GRUB
7843 Highway N, Dardenne Prairie, 636.625.4800, townsquarepubn-grub.com
THE BRASS RAIL
4601 Highway K, O’Fallon, Missouri, 636.329.1349, brassrail1.com The Brass Rail stands out in a sea of cookie-cutter chains, and wings are one of the menu standouts, according to Austin Hamblin, chef-owner of The Muddled Pig Gastropub in Maplewood. “It’s a good, solid neighborhood place that does things from scratch,” Hamblin said. There are eight different wing sauces to choose from, and all come served over fries for the ultimate game-day (or any day) combination. Hamblin, who leans toward the traditional Buffalo sauce, said the fries soak up all the wing flavors, becoming piquant and tasty, almost a dish unto itself.
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PLANT-BASED COMFORT FOOD As a chef and teacher, I didn’t used to think much about whole-food, plant-based diets – those that eschew processed foods, meat, dairy, eggs, sugar and oil. But in January, this butcher’s daughter, who took pride in cooking with bacon and butter, had to suddenly shift gears. Why? I almost lost my husband to heart disease. I knew then that life had to change. I started thinking about food in a totally different way – got back in the kitchen, researched, cooked, experimented and tested. I put veggies on the center of the plate. These are not, “Oh shit, there’s a vegan at my table” recipes. It’s food that’s familiar, comforting, full of flavor – just not oil. Trust me, no one will feel cheated. This is familystyle food that celebrates a place at the table for everyone sharing a meal, because isn’t that what it’s all about?
B Y M A R I A N N E M O O R E P H O T O S B Y C A R M E N T R O E S S E R September 2018
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Nutritional yeast is a total flavor bomb. It’s cheesy, nutty, savory and loaded with umami. Just a tablespoon can add richness to soups, gravies and other dishes.
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WINE-BRAISED JACKFRUIT W I T H C R E A M Y P O L E N TA If this is the first time you’ve heard of jackfruit, it was only a matter of time. A healthy and sustainable meat alternative, jackfruit has a great texture, works especially well with bold flavors and makes a great substitute for barbecue pork. It’s also the key to making this wine-braised dish you won’t believe is meatless. 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 8 oz. crimini mushrooms, quartered 3 20-oz. cans jackfruit chunks in brine, rinsed 1 cup sliced leeks (white part only) 2 cups vegetable stock, divided 1½ cups diced onion 1 cup sliced carrots 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup whole-wheat flour 2 cups red wine 1 cup frozen pearl onions 2 bay leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste Creamy polenta, for serving (recipe follows) • To a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add the mushrooms and saute until they begin to release liquid. Add the jackfruit and leeks, and cook until the leeks are translucent and mushrooms softened, about 5 minutes. If the vegetables stick, add the stock 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time. Transfer to a plate and set aside. • Return the Dutch oven to medium heat and add the onion, carrots, shallot and garlic. Saute until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons stock, saute 1 minute then sprinkle the flour over the mixture. Saute 1 minute, stirring to coat the vegetables in the flour. • Increase the heat to high and add the wine, scraping up any brown bits to deglaze the pan. Stirring constantly, add the remaining stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the reserved jackfruit mixture, pearl onions and bay leaves. Reduce the heat
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to low, cover and let simmer until the vegetables are tender and the jackfruit shreds easily, about 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve over creamy polenta.
C R E A M Y P O L E N TA Cashew milk is a perfect choice for this dish because it has a creamier texture than alternatives like almond milk and a milder flavor than something like coconut milk, which would be overpowering. If you’re in a hurry, quick-cooking grits would work, too. 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 cups cashew milk, plus more if needed 2 cups vegetable stock 1 cup Bob’s Red Mill Corn Grits ¼ cup nutritional yeast • In a large pot over high heat, bring the cashew milk and stock to a boil. Slowly whisk in the cornmeal, making sure there are no lumps. • Reduce the heat to medium-low and let the polenta simmer, whisking occasionally, until it has a soft, creamy texture, 20 to 25 minutes. If it seems too thick, add a little more cashew milk.
CHARRED CORN TA M A L E P I E Adapted from a “Forks Over Knives” recipe 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 3 ears corn, kernels removed, about 2½ cups 1½ cups chopped yellow onion 1 8-oz. package crimini mushrooms 3 garlic cloves, minced ½ jalapeno, finely diced (or more to taste) 1 Tbsp. chili powder 2 15-oz. cans fire-roasted tomatoes 1 15-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed 1 15-oz. can pinto beans, drained and rinsed 1 15-oz. can red kidney beans,
drained and rinsed ½ cup water, plus more as needed ½ cup whole-wheat pastry flour ½ cup yellow cornmeal 1 tsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup plant milk (plus more as needed) ¼ cup finely chopped cilantro Hot sauce, for serving • To a hot cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh heat, add the corn. Stir until charred in spots. It will crackle and pop. Transfer to a plate and set aside. • Return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the onion, mushrooms, garlic, jalapeno and chili powder, stirring occasionally until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add water as needed, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time to prevent sticking. • Increase the heat to high and add the tomatoes, black beans, pinto beans, kidney beans, 1½ cups reserved charred corn and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 8 minutes. • Meanwhile, make the topping. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 1 cup charred corn, flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. Add the plant milk and stir until just moistened. It should have the consistency of cornbread batter. • Dollop tablespoons of the topping over the simmering bean stew. Cover until the topping is cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle with the cilantro and serve with hot sauce.
PENNE WITH ASPARAGUS, WA L N U T S A N D L E M O N CASHEW CREAM SAUCE 8 SERVINGS 2 lbs. asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 small shallot, thinly sliced ½ cup vegetable stock ½ cup chopped walnuts 2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 lb. whole-grain penne pasta, cooked according to package directions 2 cups Lemon-Cashew Cream Sauce (recipe follows) ¼ cup roughly chopped tarragon, for garnish • To a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, add the asparagus, onion and shallot. Cook until the onion is translucent and begins to brown, and the asparagus is tender, about 5 minutes, adding the broth 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time to prevent sticking. • Add the walnuts and garlic and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and stir to combine, then fold in the cream sauce and transfer to a serving bowl or platter. Garnish with the tarragon.
LEMON-CASHEW CREAM SAUCE MAKES 2 CUPS 2 cups cashews 2 cups unsweetened almond milk, divided, plus more if needed ¼ cup nutritional yeast 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 Tbsp. lemon zest Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • Soak the cashews in very hot water 20 minutes. • In a high-powered blender, combine 1½ cups almond milk, the nutritional yeast, garlic, lemon juice and lemon zest. Add the soaked cashews and blend on high until creamy and smooth, scraping down sides as needed. Taste and add salt and pepper. • Transfer the sauce to a saucepan and cook, whisking frequently, over medium-low to medium heat until the sauce bubbles and thickens, about 5 minutes. Slowly add the remaining ½ cup almond milk. If the mixture still seems too thick, add more almond milk 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time until it reaches the desired consistency. Keep warm over very low heat until ready to use.
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MUSHROOM AND SPINACH LASAGNA I’m not going to lie, there are quite a few steps to this lasagna – but it’s so worth it. Fresh pasta is layered with rich mushroom marinara, spinach and tangy, cheesy, nutty dairy-free ricotta. The sauce and ricotta can be made ahead, or if you’re doing it all at once, make the marinara first, then the pasta, then the ricotta while the sauce is simmering. Contrary to popular belief, pasta does not require eggs. Back in the day, only wealthy Italians made egg pasta. All you need is 00 flour, semolina and water. 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 3 cups semolina 1½ cups 00 flour, plus more for dusting 1 pinch kosher salt, plus more for boiling
1½ cups warm water 2½ to 3 cups Rich Mushroom Marinara, divided (recipe follows) 8 oz. baby spinach, divided 3 cups Almond-Cashew Ricotta, divided (recipe follows) ½ cup nutritional yeast, divided (optional) Special equipment: pasta machine • In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the semolina, flour and salt on low speed. With the mixer running, add the water very slowly. When the dough comes together, turn off the mixer and switch to the dough hook attachment. • Knead the dough on medium speed about 8 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball and let rest covered with a towel 20 minutes. • Lightly flour a work surface. Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces and
cover with a towel. Shape 1 piece into a ½ inch-thick rectangle. Dust lightly with flour and roll it through the pasta machine on the widest setting. Fold the dough in thirds as if folding a letter, then roll it through the machine again. Repeat 4 times, dusting with flour if the dough sticks to the machine. Narrow the machine setting by 2 and roll the dough again. Continue narrowing the setting by 2 and rolling, dusting both sides with flour if necessary, until the dough is about 1∕16 inch thick. Dust with flour on both sides and cut into 11-inch pieces. Repeat with remaining dough. • Prepare an ice bath and line a sheet pan with several clean kitchen towels or parchment paper. Bring a 10-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. • Boil 3 or 4 noodles at a time, making sure not to crowd them, about 30
seconds. Carefully transfer the noodles to the ice bath, drain, then spread flat on the towels. Repeat with the remaining noodles and set aside. • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. • In a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, evenly spread ½ cup mushroom marinara. Layer 3 to 4 noodles on top, then another ½ cup marinara. Layer about a third of the spinach on top, then dot with about 1 cup ricotta. Sprinkle with ¼ cup nutritional yeast, if using. Repeat the pasta, marinara, spinach and ricotta layers two more times. Finish with a final layer of pasta and marinara, then sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup nutritional yeast, if using. • Place the baking dish on a sheet pan and bake 30 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees and bake until bubbling and lightly brown on top, about 15 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes before cutting.
Italy’s favorite finely milled 00 flour can easily be found on The Hill. DiGregorio’s Italian Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., 314.776.1062, digregoriofoods.com; Viviano and Sons Grocery, 5139 Shaw Ave., 314.771.5476, shopviviano.com
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RICH MUSHROOM MARINARA MAKES 3½ CUPS 1 lb. baby bella or white button mushrooms, thickly sliced 2 cups diced onion 4 garlic cloves, minced ½ cup vegetable broth ½ cup dry red wine 1 6-oz. can tomato paste 2 28-oz. cans crushed tomatoes 2 14-oz. cans diced tomatoes 3 Tbsp. dried basil
2 Tbsp. dried oregano Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • To a Dutch oven over medium heat, add the mushrooms. When the mushrooms begin to release liquid, add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is absorbed. When the mixture sticks to the pan, add 1 to 2 tablespoons broth at a time until ½ cup broth is absorbed and the onion is translucent. • Add the wine to deglaze, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the tomato paste. Add the crushed and diced
tomatoes, basil, oregano, salt and pepper. Simmer about 30 minutes, then taste and adjust seasonings. Simmer 20 minutes.
A L M O N D - C A S H E W R I C O T TA 3 CUPS 2 cups raw slivered almonds 1 cup raw cashews 1 cup water, plus more if needed ¼ cup nutritional yeast 3 Tbsp. lemon juice, plus more if needed
1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp. Maldon salt, plus more if needed • Soak the almonds and cashews in very hot water at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour, then drain. • In a high-powered blender, combine the almonds and cashews, water, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, garlic and salt. Blend on high speed until smooth. If the nut mixture is too thick and the blender struggles, add water 1 tablespoon at a time until the mixture is smooth and creamy. When it’s no longer grainy, scrape into a bowl. Taste and season with salt or lemon, if necessary.
Cashew cream surprisingly tastes barely like cashews. Delicious on its own, the rich, creamy sauce becomes borderline magical when sweetened with dates or flavored with lemon juice and nutritional yeast. You can use it almost anywhere you’d use dairy cream, and it can also be a replacement for cheese and butter.
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stuff to do:
SEPTEMBER BY NATALIE ARCHER The Taste in Ferguson
Sept. 9 – 3 to 6 p.m., Savoy Banquet Center, 119 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.323.7436, thetasteinferguson.com Sample food and drink from dozens of local vendors and witness the annual Champion Food Vendor Competition. Restaurants like Drake’s Place and London’s Wing House battle it out for best chicken, while places like upcoming Beast Butcher & Block in The Grove, Red’s The One and Only, Paul’s Market and Smoki O’s fight for best barbecue. A full bar featuring local beer is also available. Tickets available online and at the door.
Vegatini Mondays Sept. 10, 17, 24 – 5 p.m. to midnight, Robust Wine Bar, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0033, robustwinebar.com Veg out at Robust on Monday nights with a vegan martini and plantbased grub. Offerings include a vegan Caesar salad, “crab cakes” made with hearts of palm, vegan chorizo and avocado flatbread, seitan steak or a vegan frittata made with chickpeas. The full dinner menu is also available.
sponsored events
Food Truck Friday Sept. 14 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Gather your friends, grab a picnic blanket and head to Tower Grove Park. More than 20 trucks like Slide Piece, Garbanzo, Cheese Shack and Locoz Tacos join
Food Truck Sunday Sept. 16 – 3 to 6 p.m., 4204 Main Street Brewing Co., 6435 W. Main St., Belleville, 618.310.0306, Facebook: Food Truck Sundays Grab a lawn chair, your friends and Fido and enjoy food from at least nine trucks at Food Truck Sunday in Belleville. Take your pick from dishes like loaded Buffalo chicken potatoes from Spud Shack or wood-fired pizzas from Pie Hard. The brewery offers a full spectrum of 20 beers on tap (plus more in cans), as well as a full bar.
Taste of Black St. Louis
Q in the Lou Sept. 21 – 4 to 8 p.m.; Sept. 22 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sept. 23 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Kiener Plaza, 500 Chestnut St., St. Louis, qinthelou.com St. Louis welcomes the masters of meat to the Midwest. Sample hometown favorites like Pappy’s
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Smokehouse and Sugarfire Smoke House, as well as national legends like Scott Roberts of The Salt Lick BBQ and Marlando “Big Moe” Cason of Ponderosa BBQ. Explore the barbecue expo, learn from the pros and dance to daily live music.
Spirited Sessions Sept. 27 – 7 to 10 p.m., The BHive, 4661 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, stlbarkeep.com Whiskey lovers get their rye on at the next round of Spirited
Sept. 22 – noon to 6 p.m., Dennis and Judith Jones Variety Wonderland Playground, Forest Park St. Louis, Facebook: Great Grilled Cheese Off Taste and vote for the gooiest grilled cheese and help local nonprofits supporting St. Louisans with disabilities at The Great Grilled Cheese Off. Attendees get eight grilled cheese quarters from participating restaurants like Whitebox Eatery, The Chocolate Pig and Bloom Cafe, then cast votes for their favorite. A full bar is available, as well as family-friendly activities like yoga, Beepball and live music. Tickets available online.
Taco-Rita
Sept. 22 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Taste of Black St. Louis Celebrate the contributions black culinary professionals have made to the local food scene at Taste of Black St. Louis. Purchase samples from dozens of vendors like Tara’s Tasty Treats, Divine Deli and Snax by Dre, and learn from the pros when chefs Ciara Jackson, Clarence “Chef CJ” Williams and Juwan “Chef JR” Rice lead cooking demos. RSVP online.
the festivities. Sip local pours from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co., Brick River Cider and Noboleis Vineyards while you enjoy live music from The Dust Covers.
Great Grilled Cheese Off
Sept. 29 – 4 to 9 p.m., Atomic Cowboy, 4140 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, tacoritastl.com Presented by Exotico Tequila, Taco-Rita is back, this time at a new home in The Grove between Atomic Cowboy and Firecracker Pizza & Beer. Snack on tacos from Cha Cha Chow, Mission Taco Joint, Blood & Sand and more while you sip tasty margaritas made with Exotico tequila and enjoy live music on Atomic Cowboy’s outdoor stage. Tickets available online. denotes a sauce-sponsored event
Sessions. STLBarkeep Matt Longueville uses Rosseville Union rye whiskey to prepare twists on classics like an Old-Fashioned, a Manhattan and a whiskey sour. Then, attendees take their turns with the shaker as they make their own creations. Tickets available online.
World Chili Cookoff Sept. 29 and 30 – noon to 6 p.m., Gateway Motorsports Park, 700 Raceway Blvd., Madison, Illinois, 805.351.8807, chilicookoff.com
Just in time for sweater weather, the World Chili Cookoff hits the speedway across the Mississippi. Sample chili from 300 cooks in the amateur competition and from 20 area restaurants like The Stellar Hog, Salt & Smoke and Peacemaker Lobster & Crab in the pro competition. Attendees can also sip 15 of 100 beer samples on offer while enjoying live music all weekend. Tickets available online. September 2018
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Catch Longueville at the next STLBarkeep event, Spirited Sessions, on Sept. 27 at The BHive. (Sauce Magazine is a sponsor of Spirited Sessions.) STLBarkeep, 314.502.3215, stlbarkeep.com
Matt Longueville Matt Longueville recently left a position working for co-owner/general manager Tara Gallina at Vicia to take his consulting and events business, STLBarkeep, full time, hosting events in St. Louis, Nashville and Colorado. He’s a long way from where he was at 27, when he almost lost it all – including part-ownership in a hometown restaurant. Here’s how Longueville became a sober bartender, why he won’t open his own place and why he’s definitely not a mixologist. – Catherine Klene
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“There’s so many s t o r i e s [of alcohol abuse in the food and beverage industry]. Now it’s not as taboo as it was five years ago. … This is a big part of me. I find that I have conversations with people in the industry all the time that are like they’re looking for support or they’re very intrigued by it.” “ I t wa s t o u g h a t t h e beginning, but then g o o d t h i n g s s ta r t e d h a p p e n i n g . Your life changes, you’re healthier, you feel better, you start seeing progress. And then once it gets to that point, when you see all the success, it’s like, ‘Oh yeah, why mess with a good thing?’” “The term ‘alcoholic’ or the term ‘addict’ is very w e i r d a n d l o a d e d , for sure. Did I have those tendencies? Do I still have those tendencies? Do I binge eat pizza? For sure. There’s never a stop, but I’m lucky now to where I can taste cocktails that I’m creating
and it doesn’t tempt me. … Am I AA sober? No. I don’t go to meetings. Am I industry sober? Absolutely.” “ Ta r a k n o w s w h at ’ s u p . She’s the best hospitality person I’ve ever worked with. … [She taught me to pay] attention to every single little detail and having that now ingrained into me helps me when I go execute an event. People do notice those things.” “I run [STLBarkeep] o u t o f m y ga r ag e r i g h t n o w. I don’t have to pay that business rent. I’m lucky to where I’ve now built up everything that I need. For a long time, that was one of the things. OK, I made good money on this event ... but whether it’s a website, logos, equipment – I’ve got six coolers stacked in my garage that were $60 a piece. Who’s got $360 worth of coolers? I do.” “ I d i d n ’ t h av e t o come up with a half-
million dollars to o p e n m y ow n p l ac e . That was one thing because I’ve already lost six figures at a young age. Any time I would bring up opening a restaurant or bar to my mother, she would get this look like, ‘I’m going to kill you.’” “ I t ’ s r e a l ly t u r n e d into a marketing a g e n c y. Brands hire me to represent them at events, through cocktails but different ways. We’ll set up a mobile custom cocktail bar where every single person gets to create their own cocktail when they want a drink, and brands love it. ... People have to interact and that makes something they remember.” “ I h at e [ t h e w o r d m i xo l o g i s t ] . I t sounds pretentious. I have no problem when somebody else calls me a mixologist, but there were bartenders doing this a long, long time ago, and I think that’s a totally acceptable term.” September 2018
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
WHAT I DO
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6 The chilaquiles: a pile of tortilla chips layered with grilled chicken thigh simmered in tomatillo salsa, sour cream, guacamole, refried beans, cilantro, onions, Monterey Jack cheese and three sunny eggs
1 Nothing warms the heart more than a self-serve refrigerator of house-made hot sauces.
2 The Al Pastor de Taco Circus is nothing like the dry, neon pellets of pork that may have disappointed you elsewhere. Tender cubes of Missouri-raised meat, marinated with paprika, oregano, garlic and onion, are sauteed to order and topped with fresh pineapple pico de gallo on tortillas. It’s not traditional. You won’t care.
7 Start with the Cardinal Queso, and you won’t be disappointed you can’t finish your meal. A large bowl of queso blanco is topped with ground beef in a fiery New Mexico red chile sauce, beans, salsa and optional guacamole that shouldn’t be optional.
3 Ethridge does not mess around with shortcuts, as evidenced by his personal recipe for chili powder.
Taco Circus 4258 Schiller Place, St. Louis, 314.320.8884, tacocircus.com
TA C O CIRCUS R I G H T
N O W
Taco Circus is a Texan transplant’s dream. Sweating it out on a late-summer day, sitting at colorful picnic tables propped up on bricks to compensate for an uneven sidewalk, you could be scarfing tacos on the east side of Austin instead of Morgan Ford Road in Bevo. Chef-owner Christian Ethridge serves up incredible food at affordable prices with minimal help. Here are 10 reasons you’ll want to shake that man’s hand. – Heather Hughes
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4 But he knows when to accept an advantage, too. Ethridge occasionally pairs up with The Stellar Hog for rich and fall-apart tender, Texas-worthy brisket tacos.
5 Taco Circus’ corn tortillas aren’t doubled up because they don’t have to be. While some paperthin discs tear at every fold, these hold strong because Ethridge par-cooks them to release steam and sprays them with oil to make them more flexible.
9 The tomatillo cream, a spicy, creamy green hot sauce, is everything – dangerously hot with a fresh, vegetal, chili flavor that brings a lot more than heat.
10 Taco Circus does some serious catering business, which means you can win your next party with trays and trays of taco gold.
September 2018
INTRO PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; THUMBNAILS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN
10 REASONS TO JOIN THE
8 The chicken thighs are more like rotisserie than the stringy shredded white meat that sometimes passes as taco-worthy. They’re remarkably flavorful and super moist.
24 carrot magic cocktails from planter’s house, for more on zeroproof drinking, turn to p. 31
ST. LOUIS’ Guide to Drinking 2018INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY
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NEW & IMPROVED AMERICAN WINE by
rebecca
koenig
W
atch out, California. You’ve long been the darling of the American wine scene, basking in praise for your bold, fruity bottles. But competition is sprouting in vineyards across the country, and other grapegrowing states are stepping into the spotlight. It all comes down to Vitis vinifera. This species of grape dominates the winemaking world – big names like chardonnay, cabernet and the various pinots are all vinifera. The species is a bit of a diva, however.
Thanks to their moderate climates, regions such as Napa Valley in California and the Finger Lakes in New York have long had an advantage with these grapes. Meanwhile, it is almost impossible for European varieties to flourish in much of the Midwest, South and Great Plains. That’s why other grape species, like Missouri’s state grape, the all-American Norton, and hearty hybrids like vignoles and chambourcin, are popular in those regions.
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ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
“There’s a fairly narrow band of areas of the world where these European varieties grow successfully,” including power producers such as South Africa, New Zealand, Argentina and the U.S. Pacific coast, said Glenn Bardgett, wine director at Annie Gunn’s and Smokehouse Market.
ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
But winemakers in Ohio, Michigan and Texas are learning how to please vinifera, and experts say they’re coaxing fine performances from the picky plant. Regional bottles aren’t always easy to find in St. Louis, but local oenophiles say they’re worth seeking. Look for wines from any of the following auspicious American regions. VIRGINIA Virginian vintners have figured some things out since Thomas Jefferson’s attempts to grow wine grapes failed. Norton, the American grape named for the Virginian who first cultivated it in the early 19th century, is still around. But today, you’re more likely to encounter vinifera grapes in Virginia, along with some hybrids. Look for chardonnay, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot and the official state variety, viognier. Wine to try: 2015 Chrysalis Norton Barrel Select Raisins, dates, violets and blackberry jam make up the notes in this tannic wine, which pairs well with rich foods. This winery is “doing amazing stuff” with Norton, said Patricia Wamhoff, the advanced sommelier at Extra Brut who also teaches classes at Parker’s Table. $31. chrysaliswine.com OHIO It may not be the first wine region you think of, but Ohio is one of the oldest in the U.S. Native-grape Ohioan bubbly was all
Guide to Drinking 2018
the rage in the mid-19th century, so much so that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote the poem “Ode to Catawba Wine” praising it. Today, chardonnay and pinot noir are the state’s most notable products. Look also for cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and pinot gris/grigio. Wine to try: 2013 Markko Vineyard Chardonnay Select Reserve Reeds American Table beverage director and certified sommelier Alisha Blackwell-Calvert, who was just named one of Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40, recommended this bottle. “Peach and apricot meets honeysuckle in a glass,” she said. “It tastes like Sonoma Coast chardonnay.” $42. markko.com TEXAS Of all the country’s emerging regions, “Texas wines are the most promising,” BlackwellCalvert said. That’s thanks to a growing dedication to quality, especially from vineyards in the Texas High Plains AVA (American Viticultural Area). The panhandle’s soil and climate support grapes from Spain and the southern Rhone Valley, which Bardgett said is unusual for the American South. Getting your hands on a good Lone Star bottle is a sure way to impress your friends, Blackwell-Calvert suggested. “There are world-class wines in the middle of Texas, but no one really knows they’re
there.” Look for cabernet sauvignon, muscat, tempranillo, sauvignon blanc, syrah and viognier. The “Go Texan” logo indicates wine made with at least 75 percent Texas grapes. Wines to try: TX Locations Wine Recommended as a great value by BlackwellCalvert, this red blend incorporates grenache, mourvèdre, syrah, Carignan and Bordeaux veritals from McPherson Cellars producing notes of plum, rose, cedar, black tea and slate. $20. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com 2017 William Chris Vineyards Petillant Naturel Blackwell-Calvert called this red blend “fun and cheeky” with aromas and flavors of strawberry and citrus and a natural fizz. About half the grapes come from the High Plains region, the rest from further south in Texas. $25. williamchriswines.com MICHIGAN Bubbles lovers, look north. Michigan’s cool climate recalls that of the Champagne region of France, and accordingly, the state produces crisp sparkling wines that are “really fun and balanced,” Blackwell-Calvert said. Look for wines made from chardonnay, riesling and pinot noir. L. Mawby Vineyards on the Leelanau Peninsula specializes in sparklings made by the traditional méthode
champenoise from grapes harvested by hand. The result, Wamhoff said, is amazing. Wine to try: L. Mawby Vineyards Talismøn This brut wine, produced in the méthode champenoise, is a blend of vignoles, pinot noir, pinot gris and chardonnay grapes. It has moderate body and a toasty aroma. $39. lmawby.com NEW MEXICO Great wine requires struggle. “The potential for making fine wine is greater [in dry areas like the American Southwest],” BlackwellCalvert said, because grapes that have to fight to stay hydrated end up more flavorful. Some vintners, including several families of French immigrants, are capitalizing on this opportunity in New Mexico. Look for wines made from chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon. Wine to try: Gruet Brut The Gruet clan produces sparkling wines at high elevations using the méthode champenoise at its eponymous winery. Made of three-fourths chardonnay and onefourth pinot noir, this crisp sparkling wine smells of green apple and citrus and has a long finish. Find it on local wine lists including Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria, Sidney Street Cafe and Taste. $17. Randall’s Wines & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com
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T R E N D W A T C H guide to drinking edition BY LAUREN HEALEY, HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE AND MAT T SORRELL
LOCAL GIN
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Gin isn’t exactly new on the local spirits scene. Distilleries like Spirits of St. Louis and Pinckney Bend have been producing quality versions for years, but local production of the juniper-forward tipple has been on the rise. Still630 Distillery, which made its name with whiskey, got into the gin game last year with Volstead’s Folly American Gin and followed up this year with American Navy-Strength Gin. The folks behind 4 Hands Brewing Co. joined the distilling milieu this spring, debuting the 1220 Ardent Spirits Distillery operation with Origin Gin.
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milk cock t ails
You don’t have to be The Dude to enjoy milk in cocktails these days. Bartenders are using everything from regular cow milk like in Frazer’s fruity, creamy OMG, They Pop! to super old-school clarified milk punch – as in the boozy Prince Albert at The Benevolent King and Retreat’s Tan Lines, made with chocolate milk-washed tequila. The Benevolent King’s rum-based Ali’i cocktail incorporates kefir, and there are plenty of vegan milk cocktails like the Moloko Plus at Taste, made with pistachio milk, or the Ain’t Nothin’ Wrong With That at The Blue Duck, which includes two corn milk ice cubes. Coconut milk also makes an appearance in the tropical Peruvian Sunset at Small Batch and He’s After Me Too at Reeds American Table.
LaCroix lovers and health-conscious imbibers now have a wide selection of spiked sparklers to choose from. Truly Spiked & Sparkling and White Claw Hard Seltzer are both made with alcohol distilled from sugar and come in a variety of fruit flavors. Established spirits companies are also getting in on the trend with products like Smirnoff Spiked Sparkling Seltzers and Sauza Agua Fuerte, which is made with tequila and comes in lime, grapefruit and mango.
spik ed sp ar k ling w a t er s
aloe liqueur
Like rosé, lambrusco used to have a reputation for being a toosweet soda alternative ordered by grandmas or college students who hadn’t yet learned how to drink. Now, dry lambruscos truer to the classic Italian style are increasingly popular on St. Louis wine lists. With four bottles on offer, Louie is leading the charge. Owner Matt McGuire said it’s killer with any charcuterie or spicy food. Union Loafers recently offered a dry lambrusco by the glass, and Westport Social still does. Vicia has paired its tasting menu charcuterie course with Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco di Sorbara (a previous Sauce fixation). There are also several bottles you can bring home at Parker’s Table.
big beers in cans
Once upon a time, big bold beers demanded big bottles, but it’s hard to drink 22 ounces of a boozy stout in one sitting. Luckily, many are going the way of their lighter brethren – aluminum. Perennial Artisan Ales made a big push toward canning this year, including its Fantastic Voyage, an 11.5 percent Imperial milk stout with loads of dried coconut that now resides in 16-ounce cans. Likewise, 2nd Shift Brewing moved its Imperial stout, Liquid Spiritual Delight, to 12-ounce cans earlier this year. While 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s ever-popular Chocolate Milk Stout made the move to cans three years ago, 2018 saw its 8.5 percent Imperial IPA Ca$h Mony make the year-round roster in 12-ounce four-packs.
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
St. Louis bartenders are adding a taste of aloe vera to cocktails, and you should too. Made in California, Chareau Aloe Liqueur combines aloe, cucumber, lemon peel, spearmint, muskmelon and sugar into a fresh, sweet, vegetal, citrusy amalgam that plays well with all manner of spirits. Get a taste in drinks like the Exit Strategy with cachaça, pineapple and ginger at Retreat, the Clean & Green with lemon and mint at Público and the Cali Margarita at Reeds American Table. Experiment at home; Chareau is available for purchase at Intoxicology, The Wine and Cheese Place and The Wine Merchant.
dry lambrusco
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LITTLE BLACK BAR Black has long been the color of cool, and your bar can benefit from the same glam treatment as your closet. From shakers to coasters, dress your bar in unending night. – Maggie Pearson
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Bl ack Marble Wine Cooler $23. Home Depot, homedepot.com Bl ack Linen C o c k ta i l Napkins Set of 4: $20. CB2, cb2.com
Av e r n a Amaro Averna is a deep, dark amaro with notes of herbal licorice, caramel and bitter orange. Use it in a Black Manhattan – the proper cocktail for tasting the midnight mood of your bar. Simply combine 2 ounces rye, 1 ounce Averna amaro and 2 dashes orange bitters in an ice-filled mixing glass, stir and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a flamed orange twist. $38. Intoxicology
D e at h a n d Co. Modern Classic C o c k ta i l s $40. Intoxicology
The Bartender’s Blotter Keep track of your creations like a pro with this little black cocktail book, including conversion charts designed by Jeffrey Morgenthaler. $15. Intoxicology
Artland Midnight Bl ack Stemless Wine Glasses Set of 6: $33. Target, target.com C o c k ta i l Kingdom M at t e B l ac k Collection Teardrop barspoon: $23; Premium Julep Strainer: $17. Intoxicology
Bl ack striped p a p e r s t r aw s Pack of 10: $3. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com V i n tag e B a r wa r e Black is timeless, and so is the best barware. Explore the shelves of your favorite antique shop or look for curated finds like these midcentury Fred Press highball glasses and Kromex faux alligator ice bucket at Intoxicology in The Grove. Old Forester C o c k ta i l Provisions With creative flavors packaged in small, matte black bottles, this is the line of bitters, tinctures and syrups your bar needs. Sea Salt & Black Pepper Tincture: $8.50. Smoked Cinnamon Bitters: $12.50. Intoxicology Alice S c o t t G i lt A st r o lo gy Coasters Set of 4: $28. Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com
Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com
*not pictured
Guide to Drinking 2018
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
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you love
by katie herrera photos by izaiah johnson Guide to Drinking 2018
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“I hate IPAs,” and “I don’t like hops,” are two of the most common things beertenders hear behind the bar. The India pale ale – a hop-forward style originating in 19th-century England – is arguably the most divisive beer on the market. But some of the hop hatred is probably based on old information. When the American craft
THE OLD The classic American IPA showcases a balanced hop and malt profile dominated by New World hop varietals and pale malts, is often dry-hopped and exudes a citrus, pine and resinous hop character. Iconic Anchor Brewing Liberty Ale National Beauty Bell’s Brewery Two Hearted Ale* Local Perfection Schlafly American IPA* The West Coast IPA is an aggressively hopped American IPA intent on wreaking havoc on imbibers’ palates. Absurd amounts of hops
Guide to Drinking 2018
go into the boil, creating excessive bitterness. Iconic Russian River Brewing Co. Pliny the Elder National Beauty Lagunitas Brewing Co. Lagunitas IPA* Local Perfection Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Fantasyland*
THE NEW
The New England IPA is a fantastic introduction to what hops can do beyond bittering a beer. Hazy to
movement was picking up, many brewers thought more was more when it came to hops, giving IPAs a reputation for palate-attacking bitterness. But today, the style is way more diverse. IPAs have been at the helm of increased experimentation lately, allowing brewers to better understand the
opaque in color, these beers are juicy with abundant notes of tropical fruits and citrus, and they’re low in bitterness since most of the hops are used in dry-hopping. Iconic The Alchemist Heady Topper National Beauty Evil Twin Brewing Lost Souls* Local Perfection Any Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. NEIPA, like DDH Fallen Flag (sold exclusively at the brewery)
role hops play beyond the bittering agent used to balance a malt bill’s sweetness. Hops, especially when added after the boil (dry-hopping), can generate tons of aromas and flavor nuance. Bitter isn’t for everyone, and that’s OK, but try a few of these increasingly popular variations before swearing off the style.
Cloudy as a rainy day and velvety in texture, these dessert beers push the limits with sweet adjuncts like vanilla, fruit, cereal or cookies. Iconic Omnipollo/Tired Hands Brewing Co. Milkshake Series National Beauty Odell Brewing Co. Cloud Catcher* Local Perfection 4 Hands Brewing Co. Smooth Operator*
Milkshake or Smoothie IPAs one-up the New England IPA by incorporating loads of oats and lactose for a rich, shake-like quality.
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T HE N EW N EW
collaboration and gearing up for a second limited release, available exclusively at the brewery this month. Perennial Artisan Ales also has one landing this month called Ain’t It Strange, exclusively available at its tasting room. Expect low bitterness, a dry palate and a mildly dank, ubertropical aroma from Galaxy hops.
The Brut IPA was recently invented by Kim Sturdavant of San Francisco Social Kitchen and Brewery to counter the juice craze taking over the Eastern Seaboard. This exciting new genre is light-bodied, super crisp and bone dry. It’s the product of high-adjunct malt bills like flaked wheat and rice, postboil hop additions and the complex sugar-eating enzyme amyloglucosidase, which helps produce zero grams of residual sugar in the final product.
The Sour IPA converges old school and new school potentially palatewreaking styles. More and more dryhopped sour beers are popping up, and with all the IPA experimentation, it makes total sense to add souring bacteria to an IPA for a unique yet complementary character. Narrow Gauge recently collaborated with Central Standard Brewing out of Wichita, Kansas, for the Drop Ceiling, a New England-style IPA with souring bacteria aged in oak foedres on black currants. Stay tuned, St. Louis. This is just the beginning.
Local hopoholic trendsetter 2nd Shift Brewing has already dabbled with a Brut IPA, knocking it out of the park with its Transient Artisan Ales
*Available at Craft Beer Cellar, 5760 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.222.0333; 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444; craftbeercellar.com
Get I T 2nd shift brewing
1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Guide to Drinking 2018
urban chestnut brewing co. Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4485 Manchester Ave., St. Louis; 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com
4 hands brewing co.
1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
schlafly
Taproom 2100 Locust St., St. Louis; Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood; 314.241.2337, thesaintlouis brewery.com
narrow gauge brewing co.
1595 N. US Highway 67, Florissant, 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com
perennial artisan ales
8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com
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SPONSORED CONTENT
W HISK EY BENT & K ENTUCKY BOUND St. Louis spirits company Luxco opens distillery on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail B Y L AU R E N H E A L E Y
If you want to get out of the city for a few days while still enjoying some St. Louis-owned whiskey, head to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, more specifically Bardstown, where Luxco has opened Lux Row Distillers, an 18,000-square-foot distillery in the heart of Bourbon Country.
PHOTOS COURTESY LUX ROW DISTILLERS
Luxco has been in the spirits industry for more than 60 years, utilizing distilleries around the country to supply its bottling and blending plant in St. Louis. Thanks to increased demand for its products, however, the family-owned and -operated company opened a state-of-the-art distillery in Kentucky, the birthplace of bourbon, in April 2018. Visitors can take a 45-minute walking tour of the facility on its 90-acre historical farm and sample a variety of bourbons, including Blood Oath, David Nicholson, Ezra Brooks and Rebel Yell, all of which offer different flavor profiles. “The tour is the real deal,” said John Rempe, head distiller and master blender at Lux Row Distillers. “You walk right through the heart of operations – fermenting, the cookers, all the way back to the barreling room and aging warehouse.”
Guide to Drinking 2018
The process begins with high-quality local grains – bourbon must be at least 51 percent corn – that are milled into powder then cooked in limestonefiltered water in 4,000-gallon cookers. Next, the blend is pumped into a fermenter, where yeast converts the sugar into ethanol, at which point the blend is considered beer with eight percent ABV. Finally, the mixture is distilled twice in a 43-foot custom continuous column copper still, cut with water to lower it to 125 proof, then aged in barrels anywhere from four to 15 years, depending on the variety. The distillery is capable of producing about 3 million gallons per year.
Lux Row Distillers offers tours from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and from 1 to 3 p.m. Sunday.
After the tour, head to the gift shop for souvenirs, then wander around the grounds to see the historic buildings and flock of peacocks roaming the estate. “The facility is awe-inspiring, and the property itself – it’s incredible to see this farm right in the middle of a city,” Rempe said. “Come see what a St. Louis family has done in Bardstown.” Just over a four-hour drive from St. Louis, Lux Row Distillers is a must-see stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. For more information, visit luxrowdistillers.com.
If you’re looking for an excuse to hit the road, the Kentucky Bourbon Festival from Sept. 12 to 16 takes place at each of the distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, along with other locations, and features a range of activities, from parties, tastings and tours to vehicle shows and live music.
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clockwise from bottom center, yellowbelly co-owner travis howard, lead bartender zach stout, co-owner tim wiggins, bartender taylor james, line cook hana chung and retreat assistant general manager kelly stout 22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
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TIKI r e f i n e d yellowbelly brings modern, tropical flavors to st. louis by heather hughes photos by greg rannells
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from left, yellowbelly, helping hands, millennial pink
TIKI IS FUNdaMENTALLY E X trA, and that’s why we love her. But she’s growing up, and we’re not mad about that, either. The popularity of tropical spirits and flavors has given rise to a class of clean, stirred cocktails that belong in a rocks glass but have the heart of an appropriated Polynesian idol. Bars like Navy Strength in Seattle and Pacific Cocktail Haven in San Francisco are now joined by our own Yellowbelly, opening this month in the Central West End. At Yellowbelly, owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins aim to reimagine St. Louis food and drink with Polynesian flavors. The team that created Retreat partnered with
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“Top Chef” winner and restaurateur Richard Blais to concept Yellowbelly’s seafood-focused menu, and he’ll stay on as consulting chef after the restaurant opens. The food will highlight ocean flavors beyond fish, like seaweed and brine, with casual, lighthearted presentations like a deconstructed Chicken of the Sea-sar Salad featuring confit tuna, wakame and romaine. Wiggins will helm the bar program with a focus on playful drinks that seem simple, but require meticulous technique. “They’ll be really punchy, fun cocktails that don’t take themselves too seriously,” he said.
But don’t expect a lineup of tiki sugar bombs. “The whole menu trends toward savory, vegetal, briny flavors because that’s what goes well with the food,” Wiggins said. “The cocktails and food will be very cohesive and use a lot of similar ingredients and techniques.” The Helping Hands cocktail offers a great example. Made with blanco tequila, seaweed-infused blanc vermouth, snap pea juice and lime, Wiggins describes it as a, “vegetal, savory, umami take on a margarita.” The Millennial Pink makes use of tropical darling rhum agricole along with Contratto bitter, blanc
vermouth and peach to show the bitter side of tiki. “It reads a lot more like a Negroni than you’d think,” Wiggins said. And the earthy, spiced Yellowbelly cocktail does its namesake proud with aged rum, ginger falernum, coconut, pineapple, turmeric and lime. “The earthy spice of the turmeric cuts through the sweetness,” Wiggins said. “To my mind, it’s like a really fancy piña colada,” Wiggins said. With sophisticated tropical flavors and a lighthearted approach, we can’t wait to follow Wiggins in the modern, streamlined direction that tiki is headed. Guide to Drinking 2018
O ys T E R S
with kimchi pearls
“There will definitely be some molecular gastronomy in a casual , play ful way,” co - owner Tim Wiggins said . “You can’t not with Richard Blais involved .” Made with liquid nitrogen, kimchi pearls add a unique spin to Yellowbelly ’s oysters .
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clockwise from top left, avocado toast with salmon pico de gallo and a mango yolk, fried fish sandwich with pickled daikon, coconut cake, yellowbelly sous chef kate wagoner
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LESS IS
MORE
l o w - a bv a n d z e r o - p r o o f c o c k ta i l s k e e p t h e pa r t y g o i n g b y k r i s t i n s c h u lt z // p h o t o s b y c a r m e n t r o e s s e r Guide to Drinking 2018
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from left, tony saputo and rose rickey cocktails at the benevolent king
T
he rise of low- and no-ABV cocktails has bartenders and thirsty patrons forming the best symbiotic relationship since honeybees and orange blossoms. With an increasing number of complex, lowalcohol bottles like vermouth and sherry coming on the market and a greater number of curious drinkers seeking to sample the creativity without getting wasted, everybody wins. It’s not like shot glasses are going out of production, but there is a notable industry trend. William Grant & Sons distillers kicked off Tales of the Cocktail (the trendsetting annual bar and spirits convention in New Orleans) this year with a dry party. Breweries from Sam Adams to The Civil Life offer a widening variety of beers meant to be enjoyed all afternoon long, and low-alcohol wines claim more space on the shelf. Monikers like “virgin” and even “mocktail” are being replaced by less embarrassing labels like “sessionable” and “zero-proof.” People are choosing to be more responsible, knowing they can order a low-alcohol drink without compromising quality or flavor. When Parlor opened in The Grove last winter, manager David Greteman featured a Parlor’s Cup employing primarily Pimm’s, which clocks in at a mild 12.5 percent AVB compared to bourbon’s nearly
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50 percent, and just a little gin. The bar served up 240 cups in its first 10 days.
start with ingredients that have layers of flavor,” said co-owner Ted Kilgore.
uses a bourbon spray or rinse to trick the nose with some drinks.
“It’s more about enjoying the experience of going out rather than pounding Jäger and getting sloppy,” said Frazer’s beverage director Terry Oliver, who has also seen an uptick in interested customers at the Benton Park bar.
Mixing up a great no- or low-ABV cocktail is just as demanding as building a boozier beverage. In fact, the challenge of creating something with nothing is part of the attraction.
M
J
ust because you don’t or can’t drink doesn’t mean you want to be stuck sipping ginger ale with a splash of orange juice. General manager Tony Saputo at The Benevolent King in Maplewood said the nonalcoholic offerings on his menu, like the refreshing Moroccan-inspired almond-orange-black pepper soda, have been a hit with a variety of guests. “There’s no single type of person that goes for it,” Saputo said. “It’s a relief for pregnant customers that there’s still something for them.” Planter’s House in Lafayette Square has an entire mocktail menu, on which the 24 Carrot Magic is the most popular order. The sweet, earthy and black pepper notes of the carrot and turmeric juice offer enough interest to play against the lemon, coconut water and ginger cordial for a sip as deep and satisfying as any bourbon-based drink. “The key is to
“It should never be disregarded – the importance of classic builds and ratios,” Greteman said. “If you stray from the basics, nothing works. You first learn how to balance a stirred cocktail, then a shaken, citrus-based one. Faced with the challenge of making a low- or no-alcohol drink allows you to redevelop that principle of balance.” It’s a challenge Retreat bar manager and Yellowbelly co-owner Tim Wiggins enjoys taking head-on. “Nonalcoholic drinks can be lame,” he said. “I wanted to create cocktails instead of just shaking juice. I like figuring out what’s missing.” It’s not easy to replicate a boozy drink. “It’s the aroma and the heat when you swallow that make a cocktail feel like a cocktail,” Wiggins said. To mimic that heat, Wiggins infuses juices and syrups with spices like chili flake and utilizes cold-pressed ginger juice at his Central West End bars. He
any incorporate bubbles to mask the mouth feel of lo-fi sippers. Oliver uses a palate-bending edible buzz button flower to shake up mild-mannered liqueurs at Frazer’s with no spirits required. The diminutive, yellow cone packs a punch as it opens salivary glands, amplifies taste buds and creates a tingling, buzzing sensation like you’ve licked a 9-volt battery or your tongue has gone to sleep. “It’s intense,” Oliver said. He advises guests to try the Flower Power cocktail, eat the flower, then go back and try it again to see how the flavors change. “For me, the drink starts sweet but after eating the flower, it becomes more tart,” he said. “But other people notice salty or savory flavors.” The cocktail itself is equal parts of three liqueurs and lemon juice served with a small glass of cava – not a barnburner by ABV standards but a memorable drink nonetheless. Swapping out spirits for liqueurs, amari or fortified wines is one way to lower the proof. Wiggins turns to sherry as a replacement for harder spirits in some classic cocktail riffs. In his Session Daiquiri, rum is replaced by dry Guide to Drinking 2018
F L OW E R P O WE R Courtesy of Frazer’s Terry Oliver 1 oz. Bigallet Thyme liqueur 1 oz. Giffard vanilla liqueur 1 oz. Rothman & Winter Orchard Pear liqueur ¾ oz. lemon juice 2 dashes Angostura orange bitters 1 buzz button flower (available at amazon.com) Dry cava • Combine the thyme liqueur, vanilla liqueur, pear liqueur, lemon juice and bitters in a shaker. Fill ²∕³ full with ice, shake vigorously 20 seconds and fine strain in a coupe glass. Pour the cava in a small glass to serve alongside. • To enjoy, sip the cocktail then eat the whole buzz button flower. Wait 1 minute, then sip it again along with the cava.
ROSE R IC K E Y Courtesy of The Benevolent King’s Tony Saputo 3 oz. water 1 oz. honey syrup (three parts honey and one part water) 1 oz. lime juice 1 splash rosewater Ginger beer Mint and cucumber, for garnish
flower power at fra zer's
• Combine the water, honey syrup, lime juice and rosewater in a shaker. Fill ²∕³ full with ice, shake vigorously 20 seconds, strain into a flute and top with the ginger beer. Garnish with mint and spiral-cut cucumber.
frazer’s, frazersgoodeats.com // parlor, parlorstl.com // planter’s house, plantershousestl.com // retreat, retreatgastropub.com // the benevolent king, thebenevolentking.com // yellowbelly, yellowbellystl.com
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the parlor's cup from parlor
vermouth and fino sherry. Shaken with lime and pineapple, it’s a crushable cocktail that won’t crush you. Another trick is to switch up the ratio of spirits to traditional modifiers. “If you reverse the formula of some drinks, you can play Mr. Potato Head and play with different spirits and liqueurs,” Oliver said. Instead of a normal sour with two ounces of liquor and modest amounts of sugar and citrus, Oliver’s Sidewinder at Frazer’s features an ounce of apricot liqueur, an ounce of ginger liqueur and a mere threequarter ounce of cognac and threequarter ounce of citrus. The fruit and spice play forward, with the cognac keeping time in the background. Kilgore noted that some original martini recipes contained two-thirds
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sweet vermouth to a mere onethird gin. Eventually, dry vermouth replaced the sweet, and gin stole the spotlight. If you don’t want to slam your classic all the way in reverse, mix it up half-and-half to lower the octane while preserving the essence of the drink. Though obviously not aiming for zero-proof, these simple changes can seriously change your experience of a night out. The same principles the pros use can be applied at home. Wiggins said to achieve the balance of sweet, sour, bitter and savory, and a better mouth feel, add a pinch of salt or shake the drink with a slice of jalapeno. With the variety of intriguing drinks made with compelling ingredients by driven bartenders, there’s no end to your evening and no reason for your Uber driver to give you a bad review.
order like a pro tony saputo
Americano (Campari and sweet vermouth)
dave greteman A beer and a shot of Bruto Americano or Luxardo Bitter
ted kilgore
Campari or Contratto Bitter and grapefruit juice
terry oliver Aperol spritzer or Campari and soda
tim wiggins Sherry Daiquiri
BITTER SOUR
SESSION DAIQUIRI
Courtesy of Frazer’s Terry Oliver
Courtesy of Retreat and Yellowbelly’s Tim Wiggins
1 SERVING 1 SERVING 2 oz. Suze ¾ oz. lemon juice ¾ oz. simple syrup ½ oz. Cynar Lemon twist, for garnish • Combine the Suze, lemon juice and simple syrup in a shaker. Fill ²∕³ full with ice, shake vigorously 20 seconds and fine strain into a rocks glass over 1 large ice cube. Float the Cynar on top and garnish with the lemon twist.
1 oz. fino sherry 1 oz. blanc vermouth ¾ oz. lime juice ¾ oz. simple syrup • Combine all ingredients in an icefilled shaker, shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
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G u o ta i Premium Lite Baijiu Baijiu is a Chinese spirit traditionally distilled from sorghum and wheat. This malty, vegetal bottle takes the edge off baijiu’s funk for the Western palate and keeps the alcohol much lower than the traditional version. $22. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
Ocho Cientos Sotol Bl anco
Sunora B ac a n o r a
Unlike agave-based tequila and mezcal, this Mexican spirit is distilled from the sotol plant. Ocho Cientos’ unaged expression is a little grassy with a hint of sweetness; it also comes in reposado and añejo versions. $43. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
Distilled in Mexico’s Sonora region from the agave Pacifica plant, this unaged spirit has a subtle sweetness and distinctive maltiness that separates it from its cousins, tequila and mezcal. $44. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com
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Ohishi Single Sherry Cask Whisky Sherry comes through in the light amber color and the nutty, figgy nose and palate of this Japanese rice whisky aged in sherry casks. $63. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
FOS Greek Mastiha This Greek liqueur is distilled from the sap of the mastic tree, found on the island of Chios. The unusual spirit is sweet, herbal and vegetal with a hint of citrus. $33. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
Guide to Drinking 2018
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
GLOBAL SPIRIT
Tired of imbibing the usual subjects? Try these under-the-radar international tipples to expand your palate and your horizons. – Matt Sorrell
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
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