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DRINKING frozen cocktails at narwhal's crafted, p. 22
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SEPTEMBER 2020 • VOLUME 20, ISSUE 7 What's your favorite spirit?
PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR SENIOR DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
I can never pass up a mezcal cocktail.
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR You know INTERNS I've got to have some Campari!
I love Green Chartreuse. It is wild on its own and irreplaceable in some of my favorite cocktails - the Greenpoint and mezcal Last Word.
Allyson Mace Heather Hughes Huff Meera Nagarajan Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Adam Rothbarth Wine. Lauren Healey Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Virginia Harold, Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk Vidhya Nagarajan Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes Huff, Meera Nagarajan, Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell, Liz Wolfson Allyson Mace Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Micah Barnes, Eva France, Blakely Gibeaut, Riley Mack, Greta Nagy
I like a shot of Cynar after dinner.
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2020 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 September 2020
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contents SEPT EM B ER 2 02 0
editors' picks
features
11 EAT THIS
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Mini cheese empanadas at Mayo Ketchup
DRINKS TO GO
Your guide to having happy hour at home
by liz wolfson
by meera nagarajan 30
12 OKTOBERFEST ISN'T DEAD by heather hughes huff
THE FUTURE OF BARS by matt sorrell 38
17 KAVA CONNECTION
QUARANTINE CABINET
Alcohol alternatives to boost your mood
by adam rothbarth
by lauren healey 18 WINE, ONLINE How to get great bottles in the age of COVID
bali 3 pm cocktail at the bao, p. 22
Local bartenders share their home bar essentials
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ANCIENT WINE, NEW LIFE
Find these Eastern European bottles in St. Louis
by liz wolfson
by adam rothbarth
last bite 48 WHAT I DO Roo Yawitz of The Gramophone and Gateway Resilience Fund
COVER DETAILS GUIDE TO DRINKING Buying Narwhal's Crafted frozen cocktails in bulk is Team Sauce's favorite summertime life hack. Turn to p.22 for more tips on where to find the best frosty drinks in town. PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by lauren healey 50 LANDMARK Failoni's Restaurant and Bar
by adam rothbarth 54 LOCAL SPIRIT New bottles from area distilleries
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by matt sorrell
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
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The mini cheese empanadas at Mayo Ketchup are two-bite wonders. Made in-house daily, the dough is impossibly light and flaky, fried to a golden crisp around a blend of Swiss and white American cheeses. The filling has a thick, molten texture that adheres to the dough when hot, and the accompanying sweet guava sauce has a fruity tang that works well to break up the richness of the empanada. We also enjoy an occasional savory dip in the restaurant’s namesake mayo ketchup sauce, so be sure to ask for some when you get your carryout. There are four precious minis to an order – savor them all.
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
Mayo Ketchup, 2001 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2699, plantaingirl.com
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OKTOBERFEST I S N ' T
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B Y H E AT H E R H U G H E S H U F F
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On the scale of everything COVID-19 has taken from us this year, beer festivals don’t rank too highly. But a fall without rich, malty Märzen lagers, oompah music and bratwurst is still a loss we refuse to accept.
Google Oktoberfest 2020, and the first thing you’ll see is just the word “canceled.” Munich, Germany, won’t be hosting the annual festival, which has attracted millions of people to celebrate beer and Bavarian culture since 1810. Closer to home, the 40th Annual Belleville Oktoberfest is canceled due to the coronavirus. Oktoberfest at Soulard Farmers Market’s park won’t happen either, but the organization is
hoping to partner with neighboring businesses to provide us with the beer, pretzels and Wiener schnitzel we need. “2020 Oktoberfest at Soulard Farmers Market will look different for sure, but we hope to keep the spirit of the festival alive in the Soulard neighborhood,” a representative told us in a Facebook message. “Prost!” Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. is getting similarly creative. “We knew immediately that we wouldn’t be able to proceed like normal,” said Urban Chestnut business and marketing operations manager Ashley Troutman, who helps plan the brewery’s Oktoberfest every year. “Of course it’s disappointing, but we don’t want to have it if it’s not going to be safe.”
Last year, more than 30,000 people attended Urban Chestnut’s Oktoberfest St. Louis, which took over Washington Avenue from the Midtown brewery to Circus Flora. There won’t be any massive crowds, circus performers or petting zoos this year, but Urban Chestnut is still trying to help us have our steins and drink them too. Barring any changes or further mandated restrictions, the brewery plans to host socially distanced, outdoor celebrations at its Midtown biergarten with live music and a special Germanfocused menu. “Rather than limit it to one day or one weekend, we’ll give people many chances to come out and experience it over a few weeks,” Troutman said. “What we’re planning on doing will be really reminiscent of the very first Oktoberfest we hosted
in 2011. This would have been our 10th.” Even if the brewery’s modest festival plans fall through, their Oachkatzlschwoaf brew, or O-Katz, will be available for the season. “The festival celebrates our German heritage, but it also celebrates the release of our Oktoberfest lager,” Troutman emphasized. The traditional, Munich-style O-Katz is just one of many St. Louis-brewed Oktoberfest lagers we look forward to every year. We may not be able to drink in a bierhall packed with strangers, but that doesn’t mean we can’t celebrate. So blast some German polka and plan your own masskrugstemmen (stein holding) contest with liter steins of the beers listed below.
LOCAL OKTOBERFEST BEERS TO BUY St., St. Louis; Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com
First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.224.8626, twoplumbers.com
Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. Third of the Way to März Oktoberfest 4 Hands Brewing Co. Oktoberfest Festbier Four-pack: $12. 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
Two Plumbers Brewery + Arcade Doc Okt 16-ounce crowler: $6.50. Two Plumbers Brewery + Arcade, 2236
September 2020
Four-pack: $12. Narrow Gauge Brewing Co., 1595 US-67, Florissant, 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com
Ferguson Brewing Co. Oktoberfest Price TBD. Ferguson Brewing Co., 418 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.254.7359, fergusonbrewing.com
2nd Shift Brewing Oktoberfest Märzen Lager Four-pack: $8. 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Schlafly Oktoberfest Six-pack: $8. Schlafly Taproom, 2100 Locust
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. O-Katz Oachkatzlschwoaf Four-pack: $9. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com
The Civil Life Brewing Co. Oktoberfest Lager Six-pack: $9. 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com
Third Wheel Brewing Oktoberfest Four-pack: $14. Third Wheel Brewing, 4008 N. Service Road, St. Peters, thirdwheelbrewing.com
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SPONSORED CONTENT
DATE NIGHT I N A N EW WOR LD
Start the night with cocktails at Planter’s House in Lafayette Square to be greeted by kind eyes and plentiful safety measures, including an abundance of sanitizer, as well as socially distanced and often blocked-off tables. With staff members decked out in protective gear, their priority is your comfort. The cocktails are truly incredible: Try the Milagro Tequila-based Taco Cat, which features a bit of flair from Mexican spices. There’s also a concise, focused food menu if you’re looking to nibble while you sip. Want to speak to a manager? The owner will gladly come right over, happy to assist with any needs you may have. After a cocktail (or two), head out for your next stop: dinner.
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Olive + Oak in Webster Groves has moved down the block to a massive, gorgeous new venue, and the team is ready to serve you the same exquisite food and cocktail options you’ve come to love, like a Hendrick’s Gin Negroni paired with some fresh oysters. Dreaming of fresh air and European romance? The Central West End’s Scottish Arms, with its newly remodeled patio and farm-fresh seasonal offerings, will transport you. The Scottish heritage of hospitality is apparent as soon as you walk in the door, are directed to your table and shown a QR code to quickly access the most up-to-date menu. The staff members are incredibly courteous and are happy to make recommendations, like the Scottish Old-Fashioned made with Monkey Shoulder Whisky and house-made porcini simple syrup. Once you’re ready to slow down for a nightcap, a great place to complete an evening out is Stanley’s Cigar Lounge downtown for a quick dram and a smoke.
Stanley’s features whiskeys from all around the globe, including a sweet Scottish offering of Balvenie 14-Year Caribbean Cask, which pairs perfectly with an entrancing Rocky Patel cigar. If your night out continues into the following day, wrap up the date with brunch. Sqwires in Lafayette Square offers a variety of options and is conscious of dietary restrictions to accommodate everyone’s lifestyle. The staff works as a team to make sure everything is clean and people are comfortably spaced out, and the jalapeno margarita offers just enough spice to put some heat back into your lingering date. There is a definite focus on safety and comfort at each of these establishments, but if you prefer a quiet night in, they all offer curbside pickup for both food and drink. In an industry that aims to please, these five stars have aimed a little higher.
PHOTOS BY KEYAN STILL
The world is a strange place these days. In our hardest times, we turn to the ones we love most, but rekindling romance when stressed out and (mostly) stuck at home can present a unique set of challenges. Luckily, a few establishments around town are making it a little easier and more private than ever for a romantic evening out.
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kava is traditionally served in a coconut shell garnished with a pineapple wedge.
to offer,” said Synergy co-owner Joe Bill. “There’s nothing here that will blow you away or make you feel uncomfortable, but some will ease your mind and relax you, while others are more stimulating.” Kava, a cold-brewed tea made from a plant native to the South Pacific, has been enjoyed and used ceremonially for centuries. It’s increasingly popular internationally for its psychotropic effects. “It’s calming, reduces stress and anxiety, and opens up lines of communication, so it’s a great social lubricant,” Bill said. “The effect lasts anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple hours, but it doesn’t take away your motor skills, so you’re safe to drive.” Some recovering alcoholics use kava as an alternative to alcohol since it is relaxing but not incapacitating. Traditionally served in a coconut shell with a pineapple wedge, kava can be mixed to improve its taste, which has a bitter minerality. Synergy subdues the earthy flavor in cocktails like the Kava Colada with pineapple, coconut milk, lime and agave. Unfortunately, the bar is closing its brick-and-mortar on Sept. 18 due to the effects of the pandemic, but will continue to sell kava on its website and potentially at shops around St. Louis. You will be able to make favorites like the pineapple, strawberry or blueberry kava sodas at home with bottles of concentrated kava combined with house-made syrups.
KAVA CONNECTION PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY
Alcohol alternatives to boost your mood
BY LAUREN HEALEY
September 2020
A new wave of beverages is gaining popularity, offering ways to catch a different kind of buzz with ingredients like kava, kratom and cannabidiol (CBD). Synergy Smoothie & Elixir Bar, an upscale, bohemian hangout with a free-spirited vibe, offers some of these alternatives in Midtown. “People are valuing what they put in their bodies and are willing to invest in themselves; they come in for the smoothies, but they stumble upon all the other things we have
Synergy also offers beverages featuring kratom (called mitra on its menu), another plant derivative from Southeast Asia. “It’s a powerful medicine that tastes a bit more bitter and has a stronger effect than kava, but we only offer very mindful doses. It’s something that needs to be respected and not abused,” Bill said. He mentioned that people recovering from opioid addiction will try kratom to aid their rehabilitation. “The green kratom is a stimulant, and the red is more relaxing, but they both give you
a feeling of euphoria. … It’s not a good idea to mix kava or kratom with alcohol; it can be hard on the stomach.” Due to limited regulations, the quality and strength of these products can vary greatly, so make sure you buy from a trusted source. And if kava and kratom aren’t your cup of tea, there are more entrylevel ways to imbibe. “Most people have heard of CBD and its calming and anti-anxiety effects, which brings a lot of people in, but cacao is another big part of our business,” Bill said. “It’s raw, unprocessed chocolate from South America, and it has a stimulating effect similar to caffeine but softer and lighter.” Synergy offers cacao in the bottled herbal concentrate Heart Wide Open potion, which incorporates almond milk, maple syrup, cayenne pepper and cinnamon. St. Louis is home to an increasing number of adult nightlife alternatives as people seek new ways to relax sans booze. Along with other healthfocused juice shops that sell kava, like Rootbound in Clayton, there are places like Kickin’ it with Kava in St. Charles that provide more of a traditional bar atmosphere. The chain CBD Kratom now has several locations in the area, and with the legalization of medical marijuana in Missouri and recreational marijuana in Illinois, options are expanding even more. Cherokee Street is poised to become St. Louis’ own Green Light District, with a concentration of new dispensaries opening this year.
TRY IT Kickin’ it with Kava 205 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.206.5075, kickinitwithkava.com Rootbound 7818 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.590.2777, rootboundstl.com Synergy Smoothie & Elixir Bar 3674 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.769.9111, synergyelixirs.com
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PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
WINE, ONLINE
September 2020
FOR WINE LOVERS, perusing the aisles of a favorite shop or ordering a perfectly paired glass at dinner can be bliss. We relish the spontaneity of grabbing some cool, new juice off the shelf, taking the advice of a trusted server or sommelier or indulging joyfully in an old favorite. We used to, anyway. With many shops and restaurants closed to foot traffic or operating at low capacity during the pandemic, those memories risk becoming, to paraphrase a monologue from Blade Runner, lost in time like tears in rain. But the public demand for good wine hasn’t diminished, nor has the need for restaurants and wine shops to move bottles. As a result, many have pivoted to online sales and introduced to-go menus that feature large wine lists. “We went straight to strictly curbside,” said Scott Stieven of Cork & Rind. “It was quite a struggle. We built an online store in like two days.” Cork & Rind’s website is set up to mirror the experience of being in the wine shop, a stylish, open space with massive walls stocked nearly floor to ceiling with natural wine, where you can get some of the most unique and interesting bottles in town. Its online store has cycled through dozens of categories, from “smooth and fruity rosé” and “light patio red wines” to “New World natural wines” and “the essential pét-nats.” They’ve even had spotlights on natural producers like Joe Swick, Milan Nastarec and Old Westminster Winery. “We’re trying to give people those experiences they would have had in the store, but at home where they are more safe,” Stieven said. Though people are still buying wine, they’re doing it a bit differently. They’re buying larger quantities in fewer visits – orders have been about 50% bigger, in Stieven’s estimation. “The average purchase has gone up. They buy in bulk and sit on that for a while,” he said. Things have changed on his end as well, as customer interaction is down. “It’s definitely weird,” Stieven explained. “You’re used to talking to people all the time, and now you’re talking to people virtually.” Cork & Rind used to have about eight wines on tap and a steady flow of customers itching to try them. Now the shop is eerily quiet during the day, with fewer customers in the door, and those wearing masks and maintaining social distance. In this new paradigm of scoring bottles September 2020
from your phone or computer, customers have more choices, especially with restaurants. Matt Bone became Pastaria’s beverage director after COVID hit, and the pandemic caused him to rethink the entire wine program. “It was just classic Italian stuff. Probably 18 bottles in all,” he said. “I was having a difficult time finding wines that were really exciting to me. In the hunt for something a little more reasonably priced, a little wilder, a little more adventurous, a little newer, we thought we could just elaborate on our offerings a little more.” He said his focus is mostly on natural wine and recommended Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery as another natural-focused local program with a solid to-go list. IN SETTING UP PASTARIA’S online system, some challenges of normal day-to-day wine sales carried over and some new ones emerged. Trying to figure out how to communicate what the wines are like, whether on social media or on the website, was a learning curve. “Wine’s such a personal thing – it’s easy to approach a table and talk to them about bottles, but that’s kind of shifted in the current atmosphere,” Bone said. “I also get that wine is not cheap, and to jump into a $25 bottle willy-nilly is a lot to ask.” Thus, he launched Pastaria Wine (@pastariawine), an Instagram account dedicated to spotlighting and explaining the bottles on offer. In other words, Pastaria and its customers have effectively started treating its program more like a bottle shop than a restaurant wine list. It’s a transition many are making – Vicia did so explicitly, launching the Vicia Wine Shop with retail prices on an expanded wine list online. Little Fox composes amusing, literary descriptions of every wine on its website; it has also launched a biweekly natural wine club that meets via Instagram Live. In May, Blood & Sand started a monthly wine club offering themed packages of four bottles along with 2-ounce samples so customers can participate in virtual tasting events on Zoom to learn more about the wines without opening all four bottles at once. Many shops have gotten similarly creative online. Chateau Maplewood has taken to posting its entire wine list on Instagram occasionally, while 33 Wine Shop & Bar has its entire cellar contents – over 500 bottles – posted on the website, complete with to-go prices.
Naturally, some still prefer the analog way. Instead of going online, some shops have made changes to stay safe while keeping it old school. “Parker’s Table is doing an amazing job right now,” said certified sommelier and wine consultant Alisha BlackwellCalvert. “You can’t go inside Parker’s, but the offering that they do have, it’s like legit curbside. They brought a lot of their favorite things outdoors.” There, customers can talk to experts, score recommendations and order from a sidewalk storefront, with attendants running in to grab bottles. Buying from somewhere like Pastaria, you’re assured to get something that pairs well with the dinner you’ll inevitably order alongside it. “A wine director’s job is not just to pick cool wines but to pick ones that fit the restaurant and fit the food program,” Bone said. “There should be intention behind everything going together.” But picking up from shops like Parker’s Table and Cork & Rind means you can also make use of their vast selections of curated cheeses and spirits. At the end of the day, good juice is all we’re looking for, regardless of who carries it. Through overcoming the obstacles of COVID-19, St. Louis shops and restaurants have made it easier than ever for customers to get their hands on exciting bottles.
33 Wine Shop & Bar 1913 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.9463, 33wine.com Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com Chateau Maplewood 7326 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0105, chateaumaplewood.com Cork & Rind 555 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.896.4404, corkandrind.com Little Fox 2800 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com Parker’s Table 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com Pastaria 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, eatpastaria.com Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com Vicia 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com
Cork & Rind Recommends Weingut Maria & Sepp Muster, Rosé vom Opok A blend of hand-harvested Austrian grapes, including zweigelt, wildbacher and blaufränkisch, goes into this rosé. “This wine is wild,” Cork & Rind’s Scott Stieven said. Unrefined and unfiltered, it features earthy notes alongside macerated strawberries, white pepper, cranberry and lime. $35
Chateau Barouillet Splash This 100% sémillon French pét-nat has apple, lemon and clean floral notes. Stieven recommends pairing it with barbecue or cured, smoked meats. $29
J. Brix Nomine Amoris Skin-Contact Pinot Gris “This is meant for the adventurous wine drinker wanting to know what all the rage of a skin contact wine is about,” Stieven said. Made with 100% pinot gris grapes, it has a light salinity and pepperiness paired with flavors of ruby grapefruit and aromas of cherry blossom. $26
Bodegas Ponce Hablo Verdejo Gulp “Fun and crisp,” according to Stieven, this 100% verdejo Spanish wine is sold by the liter and offers flavors of green apple, peach, lime, apricot and minerals. $18
Ver Sacrum GSM GSM stands for garnacha, monastrell and syrah – the French grapes that winemaker Eduardo Soler grew in Mendoza, Argentina, for this unique wine. It features blackberry currant and black cherry notes. $20 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19
These are challenging times for our friends in the food and beverage industry and Sauce is doing all we can to help. From keeping St. Louis updated on all the industry news through our continued editorial coverage to lending a helping hand to restaurants, bars and more through our Sauce Supports initiative. Look up your favorite restaurants to see their current offerings on our Covid-19 Restaurant Guide - open dining rooms, curbside service, delivery, and more. Visit saucemagazine.com/restaurant-guide.
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to D R I N K S
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go carryout cocktails are the new normal, and we're here for it
by
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liz
wolfson
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photos
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drinks to go
i c e, i c
Frozen cocktails are critical to surviving St. Louis’ sweltering summers, a fact that taught us an important life hack this year. You can make frozen deliciousness a part of your daily routine by overordering and storing the drinks in your freezer, where they should keep for a week or more. Recently, the frozen format has received a long overdue upgrade, with a broader range of flavor profiles augmenting the traditional lineup of beach resort classics. Whether you’re craving a subtle cocktail or a fruity favorite, the places below offer options for all palates.
Narwhal’s Crafted
From the classic Zombie to the blackberry-mezcal paloma, Narwhal’s vast selection of quality frozen cocktails becoming available for carryout is about the best thing to happen to us during the garbage fire that is 2020. Do like Team Sauce and buy your favorite flavor in bulk (they sell up to 64 ounces) to have frozen happy hour any day of the week. 16 ounces: $10. Narwhal’s Crafted, 3906 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8388; 1450 Beale St., St. Charles, 636.395.7315, narwhalscrafted.com
Westport Social
Westport Social offers frozen takes on two classic cocktails: the paloma and the whiskey sour. The paloma’s bright grapefruit and lime flavors lend themselves especially well to the frozen form for a refreshing, sweettart punch that keeps you sipping. 1 serving: $9. 910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights, 314.548.2876, westportsocial-stl.com
Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.
Don’t let the menu’s reference to a convenience store mainstay fool you: Peacemaker’s “boozy slushies” will satisfy the most exacting of cocktail standards. Options include one seasonally rotating cocktail like the floral Aviation, a classic recipe featuring liquor made from violets, and a permanent fixture, the teabased bourbon punch. 1 serving: $5. Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., 1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerlobstercrab.com
Stix & Ice
Florissant’s appropriately named Stix & Ice specializes in kebabs and frozen adult beverages, available in classic fruit flavors like mango and black cherry, as well as unique blends with fun names like Angry Smurf. Pro tip: Upon request, the bartender will artfully swirl flavors together; we’re told the Backyard Lemonade – a patron favorite – is
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delicious swirled with the green Hulk Smash. 16 ounces: $12. 35 Florissant Oaks Shopping Center, Florissant, 314.778.3500, Facebook: Stix & Ice
Satchmo’s Bar & Grill
Satchmo’s Bar & Grill makes classic frozen drinks like the strawberry daiquiri and pina colada to order using frozen fruit. Close your eyes, take a sip and imagine you’re on a beach instead of social distancing on your porch. 16 ounces: $9. Satchmo’s Bar and Grill, 13375 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 314.878.3886, satchmosgrill.com
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drinks to go Bali 3 pm
The Bao The Bao’s Bali 3 pm features Missouri’s own Nobletons Duckett Golden Rhum blended with gin, tamarind, pineapple and lime juices, and spices. The Bao gets bonus points for its artful packaging; garnishes (in this case, a mint bouquet) come vacuumsealed above the pre-mixed drinks, keeping them fresh until cocktail hour. 2 servings: $23. The Bao, 14 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.899.9089, thebaostl.com
shake it up We’re all homesick for our favorite bars. We miss sliding into that familiar booth, catching up with our usual bartender, saying hi to other regulars — but most of all, we miss that first sip of a special cocktail we’ve been looking forward to all week. Fortunately, recent legislation has ensured to-go cocktails will remain on the menu through the end of 2020, meaning many bars are now offering their specialty cocktails for pickup or delivery. Here are a few great options for the next time bar o’clock strikes.
Sangria
Onesto Pizza & Trattoria While Onesto’s sangria is a staple of summertime patio dining in St. Louis, it’s available year-round in a rotating selection of seasonal flavors like raspberry-blood orange or watermelon-mint. Grab a pitcher to go to recreate the joys of dining out alfresco in your own backyard. 40 ounces: $27. Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, 5401 Finkman St., St. Louis, 314.802.8883, onestopizza.com
bali 3 pm at the bao
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Chocolate Martinis
Baileys’ Chocolate Bar If you find yourself craving a drink that combines those two pantry staples, chocolate and liquor, Baileys’ Chocolate Bar’s classic chocolate martinis are here to help. Try a Very Dark, a dark chocolate-raspberry, or keep it light with a milk chocolate martini. 3 servings: $17. Baileys’ Chocolate Bar, 1915 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.8100, baileyschocolatebar.com, orderbaileys.com
Subcontinental The Royale The Subcontinental – affectionately known as “that green drink” – is a true South City classic. The cocktail features a gorgeous green hue derived from the cucumber juice that’s blended with gin, Cointreau and lime, making this drink refreshing for both the eyes and the palate. 2 servings: $20. The Royale, 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com
milk chocolate martini at baileys' chocolate bar
dark chocolateraspberry martini at baileys' chocolate bar
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Tennis With Hemingway
Juniper For its online cocktail offerings, Juniper has brought back some retired favorites including this riff on a Hemingway Daiquiri, which adds St. Germain and orgeat to the classic rum-based recipe. Racket skills and tennis whites not required. 1 serving: $10. Juniper, 4101 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com
Tomato of My Eye
Natasha’s Gin Room This savory cocktail tastes like a bloody mary and a martini got together and made a delicious, vegetal baby. Perfect for when you’re in the mood for the tomato-y classic but want to skip the heavy juice. 2 servings: $28. Natasha’s Gin Room, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.3411, natashasginroom.com
Kentucky Buck
Planter’s House The Kentucky Buck shows off the lighter side of bourbon. The spirit’s innate sweetness is paired with fresh strawberry and balanced by lemon, ginger and Angostura bitters. You can order just one, or get a whole liter bottle of Planter’s toptier cocktails. 1 serving: $10.50. Planter’s House, 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
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planter’s house uses a spritz of cucumberstrawberry tincture as a touchless garnish for their kentucky breeze cocktail.
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B Y M AT T S O R R E L L // P H O T O S B Y I Z A I A H J O H N S O N
BARS
THE FUTURE OF
orders, just as they would if they were working the floor. Vicia bar manager Phil Ingram said the restaurant, which currently only offers distanced outdoor seating, had good results selling bottled drinks and DIY cocktail kits. The key to success in the to-go realm, he believes, is to offer something unique the customer can’t easily replicate on their own, “not just a Negroni.”
Going to a bar has never been just about having a drink. Be it a dive joint, public house, tasting room or wine bar, it’s the overall experience, the potential for convivial exchange with friends old or new, that drives folks to belly up to a bar instead of spending cocktail hour in front of the TV at home. Well, that was then; this is now. COVID-19 has caused bars of all types to stop and rethink the way they serve patrons in order to survive. For those that haven’t opened back up to the public, it has meant finding new ways to generate revenue besides simply getting guests in seats.
It’s also imperative for venues to play to their strengths and capitalize on every aspect of business. Ted Kilgore, co-owner of Planter’s House and Small Change, said he’s trying to pivot from a primary focus on cocktails to bolstering interest in the Planter’s House food menu. To-go cocktail orders are required to be accompanied by food, and Kilgore hopes carryout meal sales will augment what Planter’s House makes from drinks.
“We’re starting to see bars and restaurants open and then close back down. I’m not sure how long that’s going to go on, but it’s not sustainable,” said certified sommelier, wine educator and consultant Alisha Blackwell-Calvert. In lieu of in-person events, Blackwell-Calvert, who has worked at such establishments as Reeds American Table and Elaia, said she’s been doing more virtual tasting events with retail partners like Parker’s Table and The Wine Merchant, an option she thinks bars should explore as well.
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or owners who have decided to keep their doors open to serve the public, the challenges are myriad and daunting. “We’re taking every precaution we can,” said Kilgore, whose establishments reopened for in-house service in July. New measures include plexiglass barriers between booths, no bar seating and reduced hours of operation. Front and back doors at both spaces remain open during service for ventilation and patrons have limited time at their tables, a system the company has employed at its annual holiday-themed popup bars, Sippin’ Santa and Miracle. Even drink recipes have been altered to reduce the number of touches per drink, with traditional garnishes like lemon twists and lime wheels replaced by sprays of liqueurs, tinctures and other liquid ingredients for aromatics.
Both Planter’s House and Small Change remained closed for almost four months, and coming back has been hard, Kilgore said. When the bars reopened, staff were anxious about keeping everyone safe. Instituting good policies only goes so far. A surprising – and disappointing – number of patrons won’t respect the mask requirement. During the first week back, Kilgore said he had to eject several patrons who either refused to wear a mask upon entering or later removed it. “People don’t understand how much they touch things,” said Small Change bar manager Harrison Massie. “Whenever they touch something, I have to disinfect [that surface].” That goes for pillars in the main seating area as well as tables and the bar top. He’s taken to pouring water on the bar to discourage guests from leaning on it.
“OUR NORMAL WILL NOT BE WHAT IT WAS. IT WILL BE WHAT WE DICTATE, AS OPPOSED TO PEOPLE DICTATING TO US.” – TED KILGORE, CO-OWNER OF PLANTER'S HOUSE AND SMALL CHANGE
“I think we’ll also see the curbside [sales] option become even more of a thing,” Blackwell-Calvert said, adding that sommeliers will need to get creative in the ways they sell wine curbside by getting more involved in pairing wines with food
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planter’s house’s bartender brandy hernandez maintains 6 feet of social distance while serving owner ted kilgore September 2020
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efore, you had to make sure people didn’t drink too much. Now, we also have to make sure they can understand cartoons,” Kilgore said, referring to the graphics posted around both spaces detailing the requirements for masks and social distancing. “It’s nerve-wracking.” “We have so many signs,” Massie said. “We just keep adding more.” In some ways, though, Kilgore said he’s OK if things never return to the way they were. “We’ve always had issues with large groups in our spaces,” he said, such as patrons standing at the bar and then wandering away or switching seats, making it difficult for staff to keep track of their tabs and deliver their orders. “I don’t think we’ll ever go back to non-hosted seating. We have the opportunity to control [the space] now. If people are used to not standing at the bar, [service] will be easier for us. We have the opportunity to design our own vibe.” Smaller groups also mean customers will receive better service and enjoy a less frenetic atmosphere, Kilgore said. “Our normal will not be what it was. It will be what we dictate, as opposed to people dictating to us,” Kilgore said. He has no tolerance for those who don’t follow the bars’ policies and has no problem asking customers to leave if they won’t comply. “If they’re [not observing the rules], they don’t respect our space and they don’t respect us, and therefore, we don’t want them there. We don’t need their money.” In moving toward whatever the new normal may be, Earthbound Beer co-founder Stuart Keating is ready for bars and restaurants to look radically different from what we’re used to. “You’re going to see a lot of outside dining and maybe the final death of table service.
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We’ve seen a push toward fastcasual anyway.” Keating envisions changes in bars’ physical spaces, with an increase in creative outdoor concepts like the new 9 Mile Garden in Affton. He thinks we’ll be seeing more semienclosed collaborations, maybe consisting of what he referred to as a series of “farmers market stalls,” which would have plumbing and electricity and could be rented by bar and restaurant owners.
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n addition to reimagining physical spaces and service models, Keating said there needs to be larger changes. “I think for a lot of owner/operatorstyle bars and breweries, we have to see a fundamental change in the way society operates if we’re going to keep doing what we do,” he said. Bars would have to charge customers more for drinks and food in order to cover what it actually costs to run a place. That means customers would have to be willing to pay more. Keating also said initiatives like universal health care and an increase in social services would mean small businesses and their employees wouldn’t be so decimated when crises like COVID hit. But, for now, Keating doesn’t blame those for whom COVID was the final straw – who are looking for jobs with more security.
“THE CITY’S CULTURE IS FORMED BY THE BARS AND RESTAURANTS – THAT’S WHERE THE CONVERSATIONS ARE HAD, THE MUSIC IS PLAYED, THE IDEAS ARE HATCHED AND EVERYTHING ELSE. I DON’T KNOW WHAT TO DO IF WE DON’T HAVE THAT.” – STUART KEATING, CO-FOUNDER OF EARTHBOUND BEER
“This is the biggest disruption to the brewing industry since Prohibition. It’s very sad,” he said. “The city’s culture is formed by the bars and restaurants – that’s where the conversations are had, the music is played, the ideas are hatched and everything else. I don’t know what to do if we don’t have that.” Keating is worried about the survival of independent breweries, bars and restaurants – worried that without more help, large corporate chains are the only businesses that will make it through this. Whatever the answers may be for overcoming the many challenges COVID presents for bar owners, it’s clear they’re not going to be found any time soon. “I’m going to plant my flag and say that I think there will be some normalcy that comes back to us, because I really don’t want to see that world if it doesn’t,” said BlackwellCalvert. “I don’t think it’s going to be this year though.” Keating sees a long trek back to business as usual. “I think we’re looking at a multi-year problem right now. As best we can tell, this is going to go on for several years, possibly half a decade or longer,” he said. “Assuming things go well.” For his part, Kilgore isn’t looking too far ahead; right now, he’s concerned with getting through the rest of the year. Increasing restrictions in the city haven’t affected Planter’s House and Small Change because they were already operating at a low capacity due to spacing. Because so much of their seating is currently set up outdoors, determining a strategy for the winter months is now a pressing concern. “Our best-case scenario is if we can break even or not lose too much money, we might be able to make it to next year,” Kilgore said. “But we’ll make it. It’s just a matter of figuring it out.”
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cocktails at planter's house, from left, big o painkiller and i did, did i?
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Quarantine Cabinet B Y
A D A M
R O T H B A R T H
It’s 7 p.m. on day 182 of quarantine, and you need a drink. You’ve decided you’re staying in, so you go to your home bar. You’re out of your favorite spirit! “I should have stocked up better,” you think. You go to the liquor store or hop on a liquor store website to place a curbside order. You’re looking to buy some tasty, versatile spirits and ingredients, but you don’t want to break the bank. Where should you start? For answers, we turned to some of our favorite local bartenders and asked about their home bar essentials and what they’ve been making with them.
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J o r da n S t i l e s Bartender, Billie-Jean “I’m a whiskey drinker, so I always try to have some kind of top-tier whiskey, bitters and some type of citrus. That’s all you really need for a good spirit. I’m partial to Bone Snapper right now – it’s what we use at Billie-Jean. It’s a really nice, tasty, full-bodied whiskey that’s affordable as well. I usually just go for a Manhattan or an Old-Fashioned. Right now, we’ve just been drinking a lot of beer,” she said, laughing.
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M e r e d i t h B a r r y Beverage consultant manager, Angad Arts Hotel “I have to have a Negroni. It’s my favorite cocktail. I also feel like all of those components are super flexible in multiple different drinks. The great thing about the components of the Negroni is that [it’s like] a river: From the ocean it starts to go out and spreads into a million little, tiny canals. You can go from [the] Negroni to an Americano to vermouth on the rocks or Campari and soda. With gin,
if you have tonic or soda in the house, it’s perfect for summer. Go local – get the 1220 Origin Gin. It’s super affordable, great botanicals and you’re supporting St. Louis.”
R o n Wa lt e r s Bar manager, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. “If I’m mixing a cocktail, like a whiskey sour or a whiskey smash, it’ll be the entry-level Four Roses. If I’m sipping whiskey, the Four Roses Small Batch
Select. I’m lucky enough to still have a few bottles of Blanton’s [bourbon]. As far as the gin, I try to keep it simple with three or four ingredients: gin, fresh lemon and lime juice, and a dash of bitters. If you like tonic, you can put a hit of tonic on that – you can top it with one of your favorite flavors of club soda, whether that be grapefruit, strawberry, watermelon, lime. I like the extra carbonation to cut the lemon and lime juice.”
S a s h a A l m s Bartender, Vino Gallery “Always whiskey. Vermouth is great to have around because it’s a great mixer or a great sipper on ice. You’re always going to have friends that are into vodka — even a classic vodka martini is good. … Anybody can make a Manhattan with whiskey and vermouth. You can always make an Old-Fashioned. You need bitters – always keep a bottle of bitters. Using fresh ingredients is the key. With tequila you can always make [a] margarita – for a basic margarita, you don’t even need triple sec, just tequila and lime.”
K e l s e y Bartender
M at t G r a n t Bartender, The Royale Food & Spirits and Taco Circus “I find the easiest way to get a lot for a little is whiskey; my go-to is Four Roses, because it’s the best bang for your buck. I keep a bottle of Campari around and also some vermouth, so that way you can make Boulevardiers and things like that. If you want to branch out, all you have to do is get one bottle of something, and with those bases you can make 10 different interesting cocktails. If I have Fernet, I like to do Fanciullis – it’s almost a take on a Negroni: bourbon, vermouth, Fernet and bitters.”
S h e lt o n
“I think Green Chartreuse has made me feel a little bit happier in life. It’s one of those bougie things that you have where even if you’re doing something simple, like a spirit plus rock, having a splash of Green Chartreuse … it makes the world a lot better. The Last Word is probably my favorite cocktail, so some gin, some Chartreuse, a little bit of cherry. That’s like my fruity cocktail, but I like to do pretty simple drinks. I just want to say, a spirit and a rock, and add bitters. Nobletons Duckett Golden Rhum is truly a unique gem we have in Missouri. Pinckney Bend’s vodka isn’t your standard flavorless vodka. When you’re at a restaurant, everything’s like 1½ [ounces], but I do 2¼ at home with ice, and then throw a splash of seltzer or club soda, and my favorite bitters. If I want to get super fancy, I’ll add a bit
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of lemon or lime, just to have a bit of a layer to it. Keeping it simple is the best, especially right now, when we’re all so stressed out about the world. But you’re drinking at home with your friends – why are you worried about a recipe?”
bartenderrecommended bottles 1220 Origin Gin Bone Snapper Rye Campari Fernet Branca Four Roses Bourbon Nobletons Duckett Golden Rhum Pinckney Bend American Vodka All bottles available at The Wine & Cheese Place, various locations, 314.447.9463, wineandcheeseplace.com
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ancient wine, new life WINEMAKING HAS BEEN A PART OF EASTERN EUROPEAN CULTURE FOR MILLENNIA, YET THE REGION’S DIVERSE OFFERINGS REMAIN UNDER THE RADAR. NOVELLA WINE BAR’S DIJANA GROTH GUIDES US THROUGH SOME OF THE AREA’S MOST NOTABLE WINEMAKING REGIONS AND INTRODUCES US TO ITS INDIGENOUS GRAPES. by LIZ WOLFSON
t h e i s t r i a w i n e re g i o n
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While on their honeymoon in Croatia, Dijana Groth and her husband happened across an elderly farmer tending olive groves near an abandoned village. He offered the couple some of his homemade wine and, for Groth, it was love at first taste. Groth grew up not far from that olive grove, in present-day Bosnia-Herzegovina, and as a child she spent summers in Croatia visiting family. But she left the region before she had a chance to explore its rich wine culture, immigrating to St. Louis as a teenager in 1979. She never expected she would end up as the owner of a St. Louis bar specializing in wines from where she spent her childhood in BosniaHerzegovina, Croatia and neighboring Slovenia, but that honeymoon sip was the first step on her path to opening Novella Wine Bar in South City.
that are “staying true to [the region’s] indigenous grapes but making really great wine.” It’s taken time for these small wineries to produce enough for export, but they’re finally finding their way onto Novella’s shelves. Tourism has been booming, and since Croatia joined the European Union in 2013, the wine is more available internationally. Groth is enthusiastic about what’s happening
in the area and the future of its wine culture. “I feel like the quality is much, much better,” she said. One of the region’s best known indigenous grapes is the plavac mali, the most expensive of which, according to Groth, are produced on the Dingač Continued on p. 44
The remark she hears most often from customers is that they didn’t know wine was made in Eastern Europe.
PORTRAIT BY JULIA CALLEO
“Well, they’ve been making wine there for over 2,500 years,” she explained. While the region may be unfamiliar to many wine lovers in the United States, one look at a map shows it borders more famous wine-producing European nations like Italy and Austria. Given this geography, it makes sense these countries would also produce great wine. Groth said in recent years she has seen many new boutique wineries open
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dijana groth, owner of novella wine bar in south city
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MATOŠEVICĆ GRIMALDA RED This big, complex merlot-teran blend from the Istria region in Croatia offers pronounced freshness and minerality with notes of red berries, plum, a hint of chocolate and a long finish. $46
TERRA MADRE PLAVAC MALI PREMIUM Try Croatia’s famous plavac mali grape in this complex, fullbodied red from the Dalmatian coast. It features cranberry and pomegranate notes with hints of dark cherry, black pepper and dusty tannins. The finish is balanced and smooth. $39
VINARIJA CITLUK KAMENO Named for its limestone-filled vineyards in Bosnia-Herzegovina, Kameno (which means stony) is a blend of native žilavka and bane grapes. The sophisticated white is mineral, lightly acidic and carries a slight note of lemon. $36
WINE PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO; PATIO PHOTO COURTESY OF NOVELLA WINE BAR
KUTJEVO GRAŠEVINA
September 2020
slope, a protected region located on a steep mountain overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The grapes there grow on old vines that produce less fruit and receive bright, direct sunlight along with light that reflects off the sea and rocky terrain. Together, these factors intensify their flavor; the resulting wine is concentrated and full-bodied, with notes of dry figs and spice. The wild lavender and rosemary that grow around the vines also contribute to the wine’s distinctive terroir. In addition to Dingač, Croatia has two other wine growing regions: Slavonia and Istria. The former borders Hungary, has a much cooler climate and produces the majority of the country’s white wines, primarily made from the indigenous graševina grape. Istria, which extends across Croatia’s border into neighboring Slovenia along the Adriatic, produces wines from recognizable grapes like chardonnay and merlot along with many native varietals such as the red teran grape and white malvasia. The most notable indigenous Slovenian grape is the refošk, which is used in making a complex red wine that, according to Groth, benefits from a little extra aeration. Some winemakers produce a sparkling rosé from refošk as well.
Further south, the Dalmatian coast’s Mediterranean-like climate continues into Bosnia-Herzogovnia’s primary wine-growing region in the country’s southernmost tip. Here the most popular wine is a crisp, mineral white made from the native žilavka grape. Bosnia-Herzogovnia’s largest winery, Čitluk, produces both whites from the žilavka grape and reds from the indigenous blatina, which has grown there since pre-Roman times. Wines from Croatia and its neighbors are increasingly popular, and Novella offers one of the most extensive selections in town. Since the onset of COVID, the bar has expanded its gorgeous backyard patio to accommodate outdoor drinking and dining and also launched an online shop where many of these wines can be purchased for enjoyment at home. Just because international travel is limited for the time being, doesn’t mean your palate has to be restricted by geography. Swing by Novella and give something new from this ancient wine region a try.
Novella Wine Bar 5510 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.680.4228, novellawinebar.com
Kutjevo is one of Croatia’s oldest and most renowned wineries, dating back to 1232. Grown in the cooler, inland region of Slavonia, this graševina is dry, fresh and zesty, with aromas of apple and very ripe pear. $35
VINAKOPER CAPRIS ROSÉ The refošk grape is commonly used in making red wines, but appears here in a fantastic sparkling rosé from Slovenia. Notes of raspberry, cherry and red currant are complemented by pleasant, soft bubbles. $35 *All wines are also available to go at a discounted rate
the newlyre n o v a t e d patio at novella wine bar
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
“ K n ow i n g i t ’ s a n i n d u s t r y t h at p e o p l e d o n ’ t h av e a l o t o f s av i n g s – you know, they work off tips and cash – people would’ve been buying groceries off their tips from the night before. I saw there was gonna be a massive need, so we made something big the community could rally behind.”
ROO YAWITZ THE GRAMOPHONE AND GATEWAY RESILIENCE FUND
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“ T h e [ S t. L o u i s ] C o m m u n i t y F o u n d at i o n deserves all of the credit. They had the infrastructure in place to get it up and running in eight days. I got a logo created and came up with the name, but they did all the real work of building an application and distributing and receiving those and writing tons of checks and getting them mailed out.”
“Sturgill Simpson’s f i r st t wo s h ows i n S t. L o u i s w e r e at T h e G r a m o p h o n e . The first time, there were about 12 people, and the second there were like 80. When he saw the room was full, he was like, ‘Oh, I didn’t realize anybody in St. Louis had heard of me.’ He’s gone on to great things.” “It seems like so long a g o , but in the first week of March,
I was talking with Gerard [Craft] about his restaurants and mine and restaurants in general. We just had a feeling that the hospitality industry was on the front edge of those that would be negatively impacted [by the pandemic] and that there might be an opportunity to create a fast-moving direct relief fund for the industry that was likely gonna have massive layoffs and to get funds to them before they were even able to access unemployment.”
“ T h e f o u n d at i o n h a s a whole file of ‘thank y o u s ’ about how important it was. That $500 is not going to get somebody through for a huge amount of time, but the fact that the community got together … every little bit helps.” “One positive thing to come out of all this is that a lot of restaurateurs that didn’t know each other are now much more in communication. The St. Louis restaurant entrepreneurs are already a collaborative and tight-knit group, but I think more so now than ever knowing we’re in this battle together.”
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PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
Roo Yawitz and his wife, Kim Yawitz, opened The Gramophone in the Grove in 2008 as a small concert venue. In 2015, they started offering sandwiches. “I never intended to be a restaurateur, but they were a big hit,” he said. “We decided running a music club was exhausting and thought maybe a different business would work in the same location.” The Gramophone has since bridged the gap with a lunch-to-late-night menu of beloved sandwiches. When the coronavirus pandemic reached St. Louis in March, Yawitz helped found the farreaching Gateway Resilience Fund, which got nearly $1.9 million to those in need in the local hospitality industry. Here’s how Yawitz went from owner of a music venueturned-sandwich shop to philanthropist. – Lauren Healey
“A l m o s t a l l o f i t h a s gone out in direct c h e c k s o f $ 5 0 0 to individual people and independent retail except for 20 small business grants that went to downtown businesses in the very first couple weeks because we got a restricted donation from [Downtown STL Inc.], and they wanted to do $25,000 grants.”
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
FAILONI’S RESTAURANT AND BAR BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH
Failoni’s Restaurant and Bar in Dogtown has been a family affair since Alex and Rose Failoni opened it in 1916. The ship is now steered by their grandchildren, co-owners Victor and Alex Jr., but Victor confessed that the restaurant’s true captain is his mother, Rosemary, who cooks many of its staple dishes. “She makes magic happen in the kitchen,” Victor said. From housemade soups to Failoni’s signature meatballs, Rosemary’s cooking is a key component of the restaurant’s enduring success, as is Victor and Alex Jr.’s nephew, Joey Meiners. He runs the pizza program and is the fourth generation to manage the restaurant.
top: the exterior at failoni's, bottom: rosemary failoni making meatballs
Failoni’s menu is vast and crowdpleasing with pizza, pastas, sandwiches and burgers. There are also a few surprises, like Rosemary’s flash-fried spinach and the marinated Italian green olives that have made her a legend. “People come from all over for [them],” Victor said. “[They’ll] drive from St. Peters and get 4 or 5 pounds.”
6715 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.5221, failonis.com
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PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Operating out of the same building for the entirety of its 104-year tenure, the restaurant was once an isolated haven for quality Italian food. Now it is surrounded by new establishments and supportive neighbors. “It was a destination place,” Victor explained. “There’s people down the street [now]. It wasn’t always like that.” Victor doesn’t see the influx of new businesses as a threat, but, rather, a budding community. “Tamm Avenue [Bar], Seamus [McDaniel’s], Felix’s, Michael’s – all good restaurants. The more, the merrier,” he said.
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LOCAL SPIRIT Nobletons Distilling House Duckett Rhum 103 Nobletons Distilling House has made waves with spirits made from sugar cane juice in the tradition of rhum agricole. This latest expression is matured in American and French oak resulting in notes of ripe fruit, caramel, toffee and a bit of smoke.
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$43. BeerSauce Shop, 318 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters, beersauceshop.com
Naked Spirits Vo d k a It makes perfect sense that St. Louis County’s first rum distillery would make a vodka using sugar cane. Crisp and clean with just a touch of sweetness, this spirit is at home over ice or in your favorite cocktail.
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$24. Schnucks, various locations, schnucks.com
1220 Artisan Spirits Flora and Spettro Imbibing these two bittersweet liqueurs is a spirited way to bookend a fine meal. Flora’s floral and citrus notes make it a prime aperitif, while earthy, herbal Spettro is the perfect digestif.
Switchgrass Spirits Copperhead Rock & Rye This sweet and boozy spirit hearkens back to the Prohibition era and may well be the original bottled cocktail. Made with rye whiskey, Belgian rock candy, citrus peel and assorted herbs and spices, enjoy this classic concoction solo or topped with soda.
$40 per bottle. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com
$28. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.447.9463, wineandcheeseplace.com
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We may be living in the Upside Down these days, but, luckily, local distillers continue putting out creative tipples to make the new normal a bit more bearable. – Matt Sorrell
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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
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