Secret Walks: Ibiza North

Secret Walks Ibiza North 18 walks of extraordinary beauty revealed by forgotten pathways Rob Smith

a

c

b

Perfect BBQ sardines near Sant Miquel N.07

Sunset drumming at Benirràs beach

Ibiza North Highlights

N.08

An ancient shrine called Es Culleram N.11

d

A tantalising secret beach called Es Portitxol N.06 Portinatx

e

a

b e Cala d’Albarca – aweinspiring scenery N.05

g

f

c

h

Sant Joan

d Sant Mateu

i

f

k

l

Sant Carles

j

Santa Gertrudis

Santa Eulària

Wine tasting and festivals in Sant Mateu N.04

m

g

Almond blossom and clifftop paths N.01

Sant Rafel

Sant Jordi

Eivissa

h

Traditional island life in Sant Vicent N.12

i

A pretty fishing port and impressive geology N.14

j

A famous, traditional fish restaurant N.15

k

Importance of water & two family restaurants N.16

l

Sleepy farms and fields in Santa Gertrudis N.17

m

A mysterious tunnel to a secret beach N.18

Secret Walks Ibiza North

Secret Walks Ibiza North

by Rob Smith With additional texts by Martin Davies

First published by One More Grain Of Sand, 2015 info@onemoregrainofsand.com www.secretseeker.com www.ibizawalkingassociation.com Edited by Martin Davies with Katie Halpin and Ulrike Humphreys Spanish translation by Eva Ríos German translation by Ulrike Humphreys Research and photography by Robert Smith Design by Ben Hoo and Robert Smith Maps by Dog’s Body Design, Chunning Chang, Joan Costa Bonet and Robert Smith Printed by Cambrian Printers, Aberystwyth, Wales

ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND

All contents including text, photographs, maps and design © Robert A. L. Smith 2015, unless otherwise stated. Image on pp.14–15 produced in collaboration with the Arxiu d’Imatge i So Municipal d’Eivissa.AISME. Historic photographs on pp. 26, 53, 72–3, 125, 134–5 and 159 reproduced in collaboration with Martin Davies.

The moral right of Robert A. L. Smith to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act of 1988.

The moral right of Martin Davies to be identified as the author of the Extra Step articles within this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act of 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from One More Grain Of Sand.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN: 978-0-9569315-6-6 Help us update: Over two years, 3000km and numerous pairs of walking shoes have gone into making this guide the best it can be, but if you think something could be improved, an instruction could be clearer or you find the perfect pitstop to include in the next edition, we’d love to hear from you: info@onemoregrainofsand.com Publisher’s note: Many of the walks within this publication follow steep, rocky pathways, which may be seldom used and susceptible to erosion. Every effort has been made to provide sufficient warning where necessary. The publisher and author accept no responsibility for injuries or deaths that arise from following the routes featured in this book. You are responsible for your own safety – rely on your own assessment of whether a particular route is suitable for your abilities and whether it has deteriorated since publication of the book to a point where it is not safe.

Place names in this book, including on the maps, have been given in the local language, Ibicenco, a dialect of Catalan.

Every effort has been made to trace copyright ownership and to obtain permission for reproduction of the Extra Steps images. If you believe you are the copyright owner, and we have not requested your permission, please contact us: info@onemoregrainofsand.com

CONTENTS

KIT BAG

Introduction The Ibizan countryside code The island The climate Kit list Catalan or Spanish Bites, stings and other nasty things Getting around Ibiza road map How to use this book Icons and technical information Maps and map key Secret Seeker app The northern Extra Steps

THE WALKS

The northern Secret Walks Northern walking route map N.01 Santa Agnès South N.02 Santa Agnès Coastal N.03 Santa Agnès North N.04 Cala d’Albarca West N.05 Cala d’Albarca East N.06 Es Portitxol N.07 Sant Miquel N.08 Benirràs N.09 Punta de Xarracó N.10 Portinatx Peninsula N.11 Sant Vicent N.12 Sant Joan East N.13 Sant Joan South N.14 Pou des Lleó N.15 Sant Carles N.16 Sant Llorenç N.17 Santa Gertrudis North N.18 Siesta

16 17 20 30 36 44 56 66 76 86 94 104 110 118 128 138 146 154 162 172

BACK PACK

Tying knots: how to join routes together Loose ends: how to shorten routes Best walks for...

About the author Ibiza Walking Association Martin Davies and Barbary Press Glossary Acknowledgements and special thanks

180 185 186 188 188 189 189 192

6 7 8 8 9 9 10 11 11 12 12 13 13 14

INTRODUCTION

Recent years have seen northern Ibiza rise as a Mecca for those in search of a quieter holiday experience, and for good reason. The hills of the northwestern coastline and the sleepy traditional villages surrounded by farmland make for glorious walking and exploring. Like the south, there are sites that will surprise you with the secrets of earlier civilisations. Worthy of note here is the Tanit Cave (Es Culleram), an ancient place of worship and sacrifice where it is believed priests rendered homage to the Carthaginian goddess of fertility as long ago as the 5th century BC. The north of Ibiza has more than its fair share of tiny secluded beaches and nooks to explore too.

It even has its own iconic rock formation, the Benirràs stack, to rival the monolithic Es Vedrà in the south. Our routes lead you to viewpoints that will etch themselves in your memory and leave you enthralled by the beauty of this pine-clad isle.

Turn your attention to the first two pages of each walk where we describe the routes and provide you with the technical information you need before you head out into the wilderness. Also, be sure to take the time to read the ‘Extra Step’ articles. These short essays will take you on a journey through Ibiza’s history and provide an opportunity to find out more about this extraordinary island – a place often misread by the world’s media and waiting to take its rightful place as a holiday destination for nature lovers.

As always with our books we have tried to provide everything you need for a pleasurable day out, so please note the pitstops, places we recommend for refreshment and relaxation.

THE IBIZAN COUNTRYSIDE CODE

PROTECT Although allowed during the cooler part of the year, we would advise you not to make fires. Parts of the island have been severely damaged by forest fires started by tiny sparks. Charcoal barbecues are also firmly prohibited during the summer months.

Many of the routes in this book will lead you through nature reserves, please ensure you leave no trace. We would love to encourage you to pick up litter as well, if you see any.

Nature on Ibiza is fragile and compromised every year by summer tourism.

Please help it recover and avoid damaging plants or animal habitats.

Keep an eye on your canine friend if you have one, and please use a leash in areas where there is livestock.

RESPECT There are many public-access caminos (dirt roads or tracks) used to access homes, many of which cross private land. Even if they look disused, please don’t block lanes when you park and stick to the path when walking.

Ibiza is open to ramblers and while most island residents love to help and chat, please don’t trespass on obviously private property.

It’s always best to close any gates you go through – or leave them open if that is how you found them.

THE ISLAND

Ibiza is the third largest of the Balearic Islands, small enough to drive from tip to tip in about an hour and yet large enough to get pleasantly lost in. For factlovers, the island is split into five municipalities, it’s about 572 square kilometres (roughly 38km by 15km) and lies about 87km off the coast of Valencia. The highest peak, Sa Talaia de Sant Josep, is 476m above sea level and the length of the coastline, with all its beaches, bays and inlets, is an incredible 210km.

SANT JOAN DE LABRITJA SANT ANTONI DE PORTMANY SANTA EULĂ€RIA DES RIU

SANT JOSEP DE SA TALAIA

EIVISSA

THE CLIMATE

Ibiza is relatively temperate and it is safe to walk at any time of year, as long as you are properly prepared. During the summer months (mid-June to mid-September) it is best to walk in the early morning or late evening, as afternoon temperatures can peak at over 35oC. Make sure you take plenty of water and protect yourself from the sun with a hat and sunscreen.

During the winter months (mid-December to mid-February) the weather can do anything. One day you will be walking in shorts and T-shirts, the next you may need to wear a jumper or raincoat. Spring and autumn are usually perfect walking weather, but it can definitely get hot and there is always a chance of a good deluge. Our graphs below give you an idea of the temperature and precipitation averages.

AVERAGE RAINFALL

AVERAGE AIR TEMPERATURE

(MM)

AVERAGE WATER TEMPERATURE

(C)

70

40

35

60

35

30

50

30

25

40

25

20

30

20

15

20

15

10

10

10

5

0

5 J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

(C)

0 J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

KIT LIST

At any time of year it’s best to prepare for any eventuality. Always carry plenty of water. On hot days, a rough guide is about half a litre for each hour you are walking. We recommend walking boots but during summer trainers with a good gripping sole will suffice.

SUMMER Water and lots of it Sun hat Sunscreen Lightweight clothes

SPRING/AUTUMN

WINTER

Water Sun hat Sunscreen Clothes for any situation

Water Sunscreen Extra layer Waterproofs

CATALAN OR SPANISH

We have used Ibicenco, a dialect of the Catalan language, in our texts and maps. This will mean that all the place names you see in the book will match road signs and local directions.

Just in case you are supplementing our book with a guidebook or map that is in Spanish, here is a list of the more common Catalan / Ibicenco names with their Spanish equivalents:

CATALAN SPANISH Eivissa Sant Antoni (de Portmany) Santa Eulària (des Riu) Sant Carles (de Peralta) Sant Joan (de Labritja) Es Canar Sant Josep (de sa Talaia) Sant Llorenç (de Balafia) Sant Rafel (de sa Creu) Sant Jordi (de ses Salines) Sant Miquel (de Balansat) Santa Agnès (de Corona) Platja d’en Bossa Platja de ses Salines Platges de Comte

Ibiza San Antonio Santa Eulalia San Carlos San Juan Es Caná San José San Lorenzo San Rafael San Jorge San Miguel Santa Inés Playa d’en Bossa Playa de las Salinas Cala Conta

BITES, STINGS AND OTHER NASTY THINGS

Ibiza is a relatively safe island compared to other holiday destinations with warm climates. There are no venomous insects, snakes or dangerous animals.

JELLYFISH If you swim regularly around Ibiza, you are likely to come across a jellyfish or two. The most common jellyfish you are likely to encounter is the Pelagia noctiluca – the ‘mauve stinger’ – which, while painful, does not pose any serious health risks.

SPIDERS Spiders will often spin webs between vegetation across pathways. Keep your eye out for these on our longer, more secluded walks.

SEA URCHINS These are common around the shores and in the rock pools of Ibiza. They’re easy to spot, so take care not to step on them – an urchin’s spike in your foot isn’t much fun on the dancefloor.

SNAKES Whether you believe the legends or not, there are no poisonous snakes living wild in Ibiza. Non-venomous snakes, however, arrived in 2003 in olive trees imported for garden centres.

DOGS Our canine friends can get very protective when walkers are near their territory. Their natural instinct compels them to bark aggressively to ward off any potential threat. Dog bites are extremely rare though and most dogs will not approach closer than a few metres.

GETTING AROUND Outside the summer months public transport is very hit and miss.

Infrequent bus services run to the main villages and some can be full, meaning they might not stop for you. The website for routes and timetables is www.ibizabus.com but we strongly recommend you hire a car, moped or bicycle. There are several websites where off season you can rent a vehicle for as little as €10 a day, worth every penny considering how much more you will be able to discover with the freedom of your own transport.

IBIZA ROAD MAP

Cala Xarraca

Cala d’Albarca

Sant Vicent

Port de Sant Miquel

PM811

Sant Joan

Sant Miquel Sant Mateu

de Balansat

Es Figueral

PM804

de Corona

Sant Antoni

Cala Tarida

Cala Carbó

Es Vedrà

Tagomago C733

Cala Llenya

Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera

PMV812-1

Punta Arabí

Santa Eulària

PMV812-2

Siesta

PM810 de sa Creu

PM803

PMV810-1

C733

Sant Agustí

Sant Josep de sa Talaia

E20

E10

Roca Lisa

Cala Talamanca

Eivissa

PM803 Es Cubells

Cala Llonga

C731

des Vedrà

Porroig

des Riu

Sant Rafel

Jesús Cala Vedella

de Peralta

de Balafia

PM810

de Portmany

E30 Platges de Comte

Sant Carles

Sant Llorenç PMV804-1

PM812

Sa Conillera

de Labritja

d’Albarca

Santa Agnès

Portinatx

PM801-1

Platja d’en Bossa

Ses Salines Platja des Codolar

5km Platja de Ses Salines

2 miles

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Important – read instructions carefully and stay on track Ibiza is a fantastic place to explore on foot and the routes within this book will take you to areas of the island that are wild and seldom trodden. At regular intervals we ask you to look for small, specific markers in order to find a pathway. This means you must be aware of your surroundings and make sure you fully read the instruction you are following, and ideally the subsequent one as well, in order to not get lost. This is all the more important when walking and chatting with friends and family as it is easy to get distracted, misjudge distances and miss turnings.

Important for GPS users – estimated distances within the instructions Rather than giving the exact distances recorded by GPS between reference points in the instructions, we have given rough distances and adjusted them very slightly according to the terrain. On rocky terrain it will always feel like you have walked further than you actually have, and so we have accounted for this.

The walk durations are based on an easy pace of 3km/hr with no stopping time.

ICONS AND TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Each walk has a series of icons that will give you important information about the route. Below is what they mean and how you should interpret them.

167m

225m

Max height The maximum height the walk reaches above sea level

Total height gain The total uphill walking during the walk

5 Panoramic views rated 1 to 5

E

18km

Walk difficulty E = Easy M = Medium H = Hard X = Extreme

Walk length We have rounded this up to the nearest 0.5km

5 Family suitability rated 1 to 5

5hrs

Walk duration This is based on a pace of 3km/hr without stops

5 Nature and beauty rated 1 to 5

MAPS AND MAP KEY The maps we have created for the book should be used to give you an idea of where you are along the route and a sense of your surroundings. It is not possible to show every road and pathway at the scale we use so don’t worry if you see turnings not marked on the map. Simply follow the detailed written instructions.

Walking route & instruction numbers

Wide asphalt road

w

q Optional extra or short-cut route

Narrow asphalt or wide dirt road Narrow dirt road, track or pathway

R

Start point

Pitstop / restaurant

Lighthouse

Church

Chiringuito

Watch-tower

Chapel

Viewpoint

Picnic spot

Spring / well

Car park

SECRET SEEKER APP

Launching summer 2016, our new mobile app SECRET SEEKER will enable you to follow the walking routes in this book on your smartphone and leave the book at home. All the maps, walk directions and other route information will be there for you to follow.

Check our website in spring 2016 for latest news on the app and its expected launch date. www.secretseeker.com

THE NORTHERN EXTRA STEPS

The Extra Step articles in this book cover a range of subjects that include nature, history, architecture and ethnography. Written by Martin Davies of Barbary Press, these short, accessible essays complement each walk with a little slice of island life. We hope they will make your time exploring Ibiza even more enjoyable.

Limelight

p.27

Wine Fever

p.52

The Ammonites of Es Amunts

p.62

The Crane Dance

p.72

Lime kilns and how they worked

Sant Mateu and the Pityusan wine renaissance

Fossil hunting in the northern cliffs

Ibizan traditions in Sant Miquel

Land of Milk and Honey

p.100

The Goddess and her Shrine

p.114

Black Gold

p.124

The Millennial Olive

p.134

Triassic Park

p.142

Finca Fabulosa

p.158

A Slippery Tale

p.168

All abuzz in Ibiza’s hives

Es Culleram and Tanit

Charcoal: Ibiza’s forgotten little earner

Ibiza’s ancient groves and their golden harvest

Tagomago and the formation of Ibiza

Ibiza’s traditional architecture

Snakes, Ibiza’s soil and the truth

Can Jordi, Santa Agnès, ca. 1920 Narcís Puget.AISME

16

THE NORTHERN SECRET WALKS

0!

Santa Agnès South

0@

Santa Agnès Coastal

0#

Santa Agnès North

0$

Cala d’Albarca West

0%

Cala d’Albarca East

0^

Es Portitxol

Medium – 11km – p.66

0&

Sant Miquel

Medium – 9.5km – p.76

Po To

0*

Benirràs

Medium – 11km – p.86

S Ag

0(

Punta de Xarracó

Easy – 3.5km – p.94

a

Portinatx Peninsula

Easy – 4.5km – p.104

s

Sant Vicent

Medium – 7.5km – p.110

d

Sant Joan East

Hard – 15km – p.118

f

Sant Joan South

Hard – 15.5km – p.128

g

Pou des Lleó

h

Sant Carles

j

Sant Llorenç

k

Santa Gertrudis North

1*

Siesta

Medium – 8.5km – p.20

The limestone trail and the Buscastell valley

Hard – 3km – p.30

Towering cliffs and remote ruins

Extreme – 5km – p.36

High above the orchards

Hard – 16km – p.44

The mysterious sanctuary and clifftop views

Medium – 6km – p.56

The giants’ playground

The tear-drop beach and clifftop views The secret beach circuit And a beach called Moon Hidden coves and crumbling beehives The lighthouse ramble A shrine in the forest

A church-to-church circular #1

Cala Mastella and the forgotten vineyard Wells and restaurants A church-to-church circular #2

The secret tunnel and coastal views

Cala Bassa

Cala Vedella

Es Cub

Es Vedrà

The Serra Grossa and views over the Morna valley The watch-tower and views of Tagomago

C Sa

Medium – 4.5km – p.138

Medium – 9km – p.146

Easy – 3.5km – p.154

Medium – 18km – p.162

Hard – 10km – p.172

Cala de Xarraca

Portinatx

Port de Sant Miquel Cala d’Albarca

Ses Margalides

0#

0@

Santa Agnès

0!

0$

0* 0(

Es Portitxol

0% 0^

0&

d

Sant Joan

Sant Llorenç

Can Germà

Sant Antoni

Santa Gertrudis

Forada

j Santa Eulària

l

Platja de S. Eulària Cala Llonga

Jesús

Eivissa

Sant Josep

Sant Jordi

S’Estanyol Talamanca

bells Platja d’en Bossa Ses Salines Port des Jondal

Sa Caleta Platja des Cavallet

Platja de ses Salines

S’Espardell S’Espalmador

Cala de S. Vicent

Es Figueral

Es Canar

Sant Rafel

Sant gustí

s

Pou des Lleó

h

g Cala de Boix

Siesta

ort des orrent

Sant Vicent

Sant Carles

k

Cala alada

Cala d’en Serra

f

Sant Miquel

Sant Mateu

a

N 4 km 2 miles

Cala Llenya

05

311m

Cala d’Albarca East The giants’ playground

197m

M

6km

2hrs

N.05 S. JOAN

IBIZA

S. EULÀRIA

S. ANTONI EIVISSA S. JOSEP

This is a route with lots of optional extras – high summits, spectacular viewpoints, secret beaches and impressive geological formations. If you want to see them all, it will mean a fantastic day exploring the countryside surrounding one of Ibiza’s most beautiful and secluded bays, Cala d’Albarca. Ringed by towering limestone cliffs, this huge basin of deep, azure water has a special place in the hearts of locals. Some of our additional extras involve steep climbs and clambering over rocks, so be aware that these will increase the difficulty and length of the basic route.

5

2

5

Punta d’en Palerm

Cala d’Albarca East

05

The giants’ playground

Cala d’Albarca

Cap des Rubió

250

150

150 100

Es Portitxol Racó des Tossals 50

o

50

200

a

ui y

200

s Na Coloms

t r

100

e

N

1@

1#

1$

Puig des Mossons

200m

250

500ft

Puig d’en Cires

1& 1^

w

1%

q

CLIMBS

325m 300m 275m 250m 225m 200m 175m

1km

2km

3km

250

4km

5km

6km

GETTING THERE A

Using any map of the island, find your way to the church at Sant Mateu.

Facing the church, drive down the small lane that leads off left, heading north. It is signposted Cala d’Albarca. (Do not go down the small hill on the main road.) Follow this narrow asphalt road for 1.8km. When you reach a small group of pine trees, you’ll see a right turn up a dirt road.

Follow this for 1km and park in the clearing at the top of the cliffs.

THE WALK

e



Facing the cliff edge from the clearing and parking area, look to your right and take the right-hand dirt road leading slightly uphill. After a few metres it levels, but generally you will be walking uphill. Be sure to keep looking left to snatch views of the amazing bay through the trees.

w

Keep going and soon you will pass a metal post in the dirt road – this is to stop cars going any further. Stick to the main track as the route starts to descend. Just before the metal post there is a small clearing on your right – remember this clearing for your return.

e

After about 250m and several bends ignore a pathway heading off left and keep to the track.

r

Be sure to keep enjoying the incredible views to your left. When you meet a track junction after a further 300m, keep right.

t

After 100m you reach a small clearing. Keep going straight ahead to join a pathway.

y

You are now on a rocky pathway heading uphill. Keep going for 150m and you meet a right bend in the pathway where a beautiful large pine stands next to a low stone wall. To reach a wonderful viewpoint over Cala d’Albarca, 10m back from the low wall, walk over the low rocks to your left. Here you will pick up a small path that leads out to the promontory overlooking the bay. Be aware that we rate this path as difficult (harder than the overall route) because it requires a fair amount of clambering over rocks to get to the best spot.

u

To continue our walk, standing on the path and facing the pine tree, follow in the direction you were going before, around the bend to the right, and walk uphill.

e

N.05

05

Cala d’Albarca East The giants’ playground



Just 20m after the bend, look carefully for the small path leading uphill on your left. It is very indistinct and very steep at first – almost a scramble. This is our hard option and a highly recommended route addition, which follows a stiff climb up to the summit of the hill above the bay. Here, impressive views open up across the whole island and it is possible to see the top of Es Vedrà peeking out behind the southwestern hills. Follow Instructions 8 through to 14 if you want to take this harder route. Alternatively, for the easy route, continue uphill on the path you were on for 300m. At the top there is another large, striking pine tree in a clearing – skip to Instruction 14.

o

Taking the harder option, continue on the steep path to the summit.

Near the top you will pass a path on the right, remember this. At the top, if you work your way to the left on a path, you will reach an area to sit and admire the views of the bay below you. After soaking them up, go back to the path we asked you to remember and walk diagonally left through sparse bushes towards the adjacent hill.

1)

After the initial descent this path will make its way through bushes and trees to a clearing. Go diagonally right when you reach the clearing. (If you look left to the bottom of the clearing, you should be able to make out the start of the Optional Extra #1, see page 64.)

s

After a short uphill section, you arrive at the summit of this adjacent hill. There is a circular clearing. Go straight ahead onto the wider pathway and follow downhill to a third clearing, this one larger and rockier. 50m or so before arriving at this clearing look left to see the connection pathway to N.06. (See page 180.)

1@

At the clearing, join the small dirt road leading downhill to the right.

f

After about 200m of downhill walking, go right on the second sharp bend and join a pathway heading slightly uphill.

g

This will bring you to a clearing with a handsome pine tree in the centre. HARD ROUTE OPTION: If you are coming from the harder summit route, fork left past the tree and head downhill. EASY ROUTE OPTION: If you are coming from the easier route, avoiding the summit climb, fork right at the tree and head downhill.

N.05

1%

This path quickly turns into a track and leads over a hill then undulates within pretty woodland. After about 750m, at the well-defined junction, go right onto another clear track.

ď Ş

Stay on this track and you will soon pass an open area with low terraced fields to your left. After this the track turns into a path and heads into some more woods.

ď Ť

Keep going for a further 150m until you exit the woods. Here, walk downhill to the right where you see the path and you reach a clearing.

This is the clearing we asked you to remember on your outward journey in Instruction 2. Turn left to retrace the dirt road to your car.

THE EXTRA STEP The Ammonites of Es Amunts Fossil hunting in the northern cliffs While archaeology continues to throw new light on ancient and medieval cultures that originated in North Africa and the Near East, the geological and fossil records of Ibiza take us back to a barely imaginable era 251 to 65 million years ago – the Mesozoic. The term means ‘middle life’, and refers to the original triple-era system for ordering the vast array of extinct organisms that have been uncovered since the early nineteenth century. For Ibiza, this boils down to marine fossils, as the island’s limestone foundations, elevated into impressive cliffs in the north, are composed of submarine sediments laid down over nearly two hundred million years. The warm, shallow gulf in which this took place was part of the sloping continental shelf between two slowly forming landmasses, Eurasia and Africa.

Picture a tropical sea in which the top predators were nautilus-like cephalopods, with chambered shells measuring up to a metre in diameter.

Corals, sea urchins, brachiopods (lamp shells) and belemnites (early squids) were the main fauna of the three Mesozoic subdivisions, Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous. Their shells were fossilized in the mud and sediments, durable exoskeletons that were slowly transformed as pressure built up above. The swimmers and sifters are matched by a vast range of microfauna, whose fossils bear witness to the staggeringly complex web of ancient life. Since the 1960s, Majorcan micropalaeontologist Guillem Colom and French geologist

N.05 Yves Rangheard have filled in many of the gaps in Ibiza’s geological record, and part of the latter’s impressive collection is on permanent display at the Balearic University building adjoining Puig des Molins.

Along the coast of Es Amunts, fossils are relatively accessible thanks to massive cliffs of compacted limestone. Their weathered faces have left exposed hundreds of metres of geological layering, representing in turn aeons of piecemeal deposit. The ever-popular ammonites swam in deeper waters along the outer continental shelf, and are best explored in the Sant Vicent area, while Es Portitxol has humbler treasures, above all benthic (bottom-dwelling) bivalves favoured by shallower coastal zones.

The ammonites died out with the dinosaurs at the Cretaceous-Tertiary extinction event 65 million years ago, but their arresting spiral shells have recently been adopted to brand a range of island aromas – called, fittingly, ‘Mar de Ibiza’.

The geological saga continues in the Pou des Lleó Extra Step (p. 142) – the emergence of the Balearic chain above the sea, the moulding of hills and valleys through repeated tectonic folding, faulting and overlapping, followed by millions of years of erosion to produce the rich soil and gentle wooded landscape we see today. But it would never have happened without the organic building blocks that swam, scuttled and sifted, relying in turn on the tiny micro-organisms that are the true backbone of the White Island.

N.05 OPTIONAL EXTRAS Optional Extra #1 – The rock-climber’s lookout This is a 2km there-and-back pathway that involves a fair amount of scrambling and rock hopping near cliffs – so we have rated it Extreme.

However, if you dare to access the furthest point where the path ends you will be rewarded with some magnificent views. Not to mention the strange rock formations of the cliffs where erosion of more porous areas produces the impression that they are made from a once-molten material. Be sure to linger and enjoy swallows darting in and out of their small cliff-face homes. i) In Instruction 11 we pointed out the start of the pathway that leads along the cliffs. Slightly hidden at first, this path quickly becomes distinct and well marked with cairns by keen rock climbers. Follow the path and it will become harder and steeper at one point. Do no progress further than your ability.

Optional Extra #2 – The secret beach and natural rock bridge We recommend this after you have completed the rest of the route, if you have the energy. It’s a long way down – and back up – from sea level, but well worth the effort, especially having seen the bay from high above. The route has a rating of Hard, not only for the steepness of the return, but the clambering involved in accessing the secret beach. i) Back at your car, you should see a rutted track that heads steeply downhill next to the sheer cliffs. Follow this for just over 1km until the path levels off and becomes much less rocky. You should see a rock with a blue arrow on it here. Now you have two choices. ii) The rock bridge.

Walk straight ahead for 400m. You’ll see a large flat area and the natural rock bridge, with spots nearby for sunbathing and picnicking. You can also clamber down to the sea to the left. iii) The secret beach.

The other choice is to turn left, almost doubling back on yourself, and follow steeply downhill. It soon turns into a small pathway – follow this for 300m.

At the end of the path you will be able to clamber down to the shoreline. If you clamber across rocks to the left you will pass an extraordinarily perfect pyramid rock and eventually reach a massive pale yellow rock that seems impossibly balanced on one edge. On the top of this gravity-defying wonder you’ll find a flat area that is excellent for sunbathing.

N.05

THE PITSTOP Es Camp Vell Plonked on the corner next to the church in Sant Mateu, this is a place where the locals hang out all year round. They provide a short, simple menu with omelettes, burgers and various salads. Our recommendation is the menĂş del dĂ­a or home-made pastas. Often vegetarian, they are always fresh, good quality and reasonably priced. 971 80 50 36

TYING KNOTS

How to join routes together

Cap des Rubió

Regama de Sa Punta

Es Portitxol Penyal de s’Àguila

Racó Fosc N 400m 1.000 ft

es Rubió

Puig de sa Paret Cala d’Albarca Puig d’en Cires

Racó de Sa Punta

N.06

N.05

PM V8 041

C. a

Puig d’en Guillermí

nca Bla Illa

804-1 PMV

Cantó de Baix

N.05 & N.06

Sa Raconada

X

15km

5hrs

a) Following N.05 through to Instruction 8, take the hard route up the indistinct path. Follow now through Instructions 9 and 10 and in Instruction 11, join the connection pathway on the left where prompted. b) Follow this now as it winds downhill, quite steeply in places, then through woodland and eventually after about 500m brings you to a point where you see a path doubling back downhill to your left. This is where you join N.06 in Instruction 8 to follow a roughly level path – you will walk straight ahead from the direction you are coming from, ignoring the path on the left to be led after 150m to an area sparse of trees as per Instruction 9. c) Now follow N.06 all the way around to Instruction 19 where instead of going left uphill on the rocky dirt road, keep going down hill and skip to Instruction 3, N.06. Now follow to Instruction 8, where you should turn right at the top rather than left. You will recognise this junction from where you joined N.06 before. d) You are now back on the connection route so retrace your steps from earlier to N.05. Turn left to walk 50m or so to the clearing and pick up from Instruction 12.

Illa Murada

es Pujolots

Port de Benirràs Illa des Bosc

Vénda de Xarracó Venda de Rubió

C. d e

Vénda des Port

PORT DE SANT MIQUEL Zam nas

Puig Pelat

N.07

PM 804

Racó d’en Gabriel ort el P C. d

Sa Serra

SANT MIQUEL DE BALANSAT

In this section we match up our walking routes to make extra-long hikes. You should plan carefully to make sure you have enough daylight to complete the routes. We’d also emphasise that these should oan not be undertaken on hot days. nJ Sa de C. They are simply too long.

PM 804

Puig d’en Besora

N.06 & N.07

X

17km

6hrs

a) Starting with Instruction 1, N.06, follow all the way through to Instruction 16. Skip to Instruction 14, N.07 and you will see that the beginning of the two instructions are the same. Now follow the instructions in N.07 and ignore the left turn up the track where the walking route markings are. b) When you arrive back at the same clearing again, skip back to N.06 and pick up from Instruction 18 by taking the left turn. c) Now follow instructions in N.06 back to where you parked.

N.05, N.06 & N.07 SUPER-HIKE

X

24km

7hrs

This one is for the seriously fit and hardened walker. By using the connection instructions on these two pages you can make a very long route. Because you are joining three circular routes, it’s quite complicated so plan well – you may feel it necessary to do the walks separately before taking on the full super-hike. This way you will be sure not to get lost while matching up walk directions.

TYING KNOTS

How to join routes together

Cala d’en Sardina N 400m

Puig d’en Racó

900 ft

Ses Margalides S’Illot Cap Negret Puig d’en Valor

Racó de s’Amarador

na de C. Coro

N.02

Es Corrals d’en Guillem

Dalt

N.03 SANTA AGNÈS DE CORONA

Caló d’en Vicentet

1 281 VPM

Pla de Corona

12 V-8 PM

N.02 & N.03

X

9km

4hrs

a) Start at Instruction 1, N.03. Follow all the way through to Instruction 10 by taking the right turn to walk to the beginning of the gorge leading down to Ses Balandres. Instead of going down the gorge (unless you want the detour) go straight ahead and look for the path on the left after a few metres. (You can actually go straight ahead here for a short there-and-back up to the high clifftop overlooking Ses Balandres. Well worth the extra 300m of walking.) b) Following this new path you will be led through woodland, taking some sharp bends here and there, to arrive at a rocky dirt road. Turn left. (Right is another detour to a promontory where there is an old building. A lovely picnic spot, but a steep climb back up.) c) Having turned left to walk uphill on the rocky dirt road, keep following the main route, ignoring tracks and offshoots until you reach a small asphalt road. Here turn right and follow about 800m or so until you see the small restaurant and dirt parking area. This is where you should join N.02 from Instruction 1. d) Follow all the way around to the restaurant again and then walk back along the way you came on the asphalt road. e) Ignore the turning where you joined the road earlier, simply keep going and you will eventually arrive at the starting point for N.03.

N.12 & N.13

X

29km

10hrs

a) Start by following the full route of N.12 or N.13. Both have the same thereand-back section at the beginning and then loop around wonderful countryside in different directions. b) The there-and-back route takes you from the church in Sant Joan to a point in Instruction 6 (in either route) where you see the main road on your right. c) Simply choose which one you want to do first and follow the loop until you arrive back at the same point. Then switch to Instruction 6 in the other route to carry on walking instead of returning to Sant Joan church.

TYING KNOTS

How to join routes together Cala d’Albarca Racó de sa Punta

es Alls

Cap d’en Mosson

Puig d’en Cires

N

PM V-8 011

800m

Cala d’en Sardina

0.5 miles

Ses Margalides

Puig d’en Racó

Puig d’en Joan Andreu

Puig d’en Pau de Dalt Puig d’en Jaume

SANTA AGNÈS DE CORONA

na de C. Coro

nt

Sa

Puig d’en Coca

Mateu a Santa Agnès

SANT MATEU D’ALBARCA

Puig d’en Tonio

Puig d’en Rotavella -1 -804 PMV

Puig d’en Francolí

Serra des Forn Nou

N.01

12-1 V-8 PM

Puig d’en Frit

Puig des Sant

N.01 & N.04

Pla d’Albarca

Pla de Sant Gelabert

e C. d

Puig d’en Baix

N.04

-1 PMV-812

Dalt

Puig Verd

1 281 VPM

Puig d’en Guillermí

-1 812 PMV

Puig d’en Socarrat

X

24km

8hrs

a) Starting with Instruction 1 in N.04, follow to the asphalt road mentioned in Instruction 22. Cross over the asphalt road as instructed and walk past two houses that you will see across fields to your left. Just before the driveway for the second house meets the dirt road you are on, turn onto the dirt road on your right. b) Now you are on N.01. Follow this dirt road about 750m until you meet an asphalt road where you should go straight ahead (left). c) Skip to Instruction 21 in N.01 and follow the instructions to number 26. d) Instruction 27 (N.01) mentions a wider dirt road. Once on this wider dirt road, walk straight ahead. Ignore a turning / small parking area on your left after 250m.

After just over 500m you will see a path and another rocky parking area on your left. Turn onto the path here and after about 100m the path starts to climb quite steeply uphill. e) Now skip to Instruction 2 in N.01 and follow through to Instruction 19. f) In Instruction 19, when you meet the dirt road, turn right instead of left. g) Take the first left fork and once again you will be on more of a track rather than a dirt road. Fork left again after a few metres. h) Now skip to Instruction 25 in N.04 and follow to where you started.

LOOSE ENDS

How to shorten routes Due to Ibiza’s high summer temperatures, we thought it might be useful for you to know how to turn some of the longer routes into short routes.

N.04 – ES BROLL 1.5km / 35mins / Easy This is perfect for a picnic. Less than 1km downhill to get to Es Broll and the grassy terraces within the Buscastell Valley. a) The easiest way to describe how to find the picnic spot is to start from the village of Sant Mateu and drive south towards Santa Gertrudis. After about 600m turn right onto a small asphalt road signposted Santa Agnès. b) Follow this for just over 2km, then turn left onto a wide dirt road. There should be a sign for the Buscastell Valley. Drive down this dirt road for about 1km until the trees are on both sides and you see a smaller dirt road on the left and a parking area on the right. Park here and start walking down the smaller dirt road and after 100m turn right onto a well-defined track. c) Now walk down into the Buscastell Valley to visit Es Broll by following from the Optional Extra instructions on page 54, line 2.

N.07 – FINCA CAN COSMI VIEWPOINT 2km / 45mins / Medium With a 20min walk you reach one of the most majestic inland views in the north. a) Drive to Na Xamena Hotel by following the signs on the way down to Port de Sant Miquel. The turning is on the left near the bottom and it will lead you all the way to the top of a big hill. Park in the first dirt parking area on your left. b) Facing the entrance of Na Xamena, turn left and follow the dirt road. Walk up and over the hill going round a few sharp bends. You are now on a rocky track. c) The track will start to descend. Then after 150m or so you will see the sign for Finca Can Cosmi. Follow it left onto another track. Follow for about 300m. It ascends then descends. The public land is on the left and well signposted. d) Just after you enter the area, walk diagonally right on a small rocky path to access a viewing deck. There’s a map at the entrance that will help direct you.

N.11 – TANIT’S CAVE (ES CULLERAM) 500m / 15mins / Easy This is really just driving directions to find the parking for Tanit’s Shrine. a) Driving towards Cala Sant Vicent from Sant Vicent (or Sant Joan), turn onto the small asphalt road next to the bright pink signs on your left about halfway between Km markers 7 and 8. It’s on a bend and difficult to miss. b) Drive uphill on this asphalt lane and you soon reach a four-way junction. Go right here, still following the bright pink sign. You are now on a small concrete road. Drive to the top of the hill and park in the open area when you can go no further. Walk to the steps and follow down to the caves.

N.11 – OPTIONAL VIEWPOINT 3km / 1hour / Medium This is the optional extra for N.11 that takes you to the high viewpoint. a) Follow the driving instructions above to reach the Tanit Shrine except that when you reach the four-way junction park where you find some space without blocking the road. Walk back to the four-way junction and join the rocky dirt road that heads uphill. b) Follow this for about 1.5km past old houses and terraces to the viewpoint.

BEST WALKS FOR...

...SUNSETS N.02 Santa Agnès Coastal N.03 Santa Agnès North N.08 Benirràs N.10 Portinatx Peninsula

...LONG HIKES N.04 Cala d’Albarca West N.12 Sant Joan East N.13 Sant Joan South N.17 Santa Gertrudis North

...NATURE N.01 Santa Agnès South N.06 Es Portitxol N.17 Santa Gertrudis North N.18 Siesta

...SWIMMING & SUNBATHING N.06 Es Portitxol N.07 Sant Miquel N.09 Punta de Xarracó N.15 Sant Carles

...BREATHTAKING VIEWS N.03 Santa Agnès North N.05 Cala d’Albarca East N.07 Sant Miquel N.18 Siesta

...YOUNG FAMILIES N.05 Cala d’Albarca East N.09 Punta de Xarracó N.10 Portinatx Peninsula N.14 Pou des Lleó

...PITSTOPS N.07 Sant Miquel N.08 Benirràs N.16 Sant Llorenç N.17 Santa Gertrudis North

...PUBLIC TRANSPORT N.07 Sant Miquel N.12 Sant Joan East N.13 Sant Joan South N.17 Santa Gertrudis North

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Rob Smith, founder of the Secret Seeker guidebook series, has always had a love of walking, which stems from long summer holidays spent in southwest England as a child. In his late teens he moved to France to follow his passion for cooking, working his way up from plongeur to chef at a variety of restaurants. He travelled leisurely from Provence to Paris before returning to the UK in 1996 to establish The Shoreditch Map. This monthly listings magazine, for which he wrote about venues and events across the stylish London neighbourhood, ran for over 80 issues before he passed it on as a successful enterprise.

These days Rob divides his time between London and a remote hideaway in the west of Ibiza. To research this book he walked every path in every accessible corner of the island for a year and a half, clocking up over 3,000 kilometres – equivalent to walking to his home in London and back.

Also during this time Rob founded the Ibiza Walking Association, an organisation that aims to promote the Pityuses as a walking destination, as well as giving local guides an internet presence and Facebook page where they can promote their services.

IBIZA WALKING ASSOCIATION For the past couple of years, Rob’s IWA has organised fundraising walks for Ibiza-based charities. Thanks in good measure to the skills and enthusiasm of the participants, over €15,000 has been raised so far for worthy initiatives.

Along with clearing pathways that have become difficult to locate, Rob sincerely hopes his work on the ground and as an author-publisher will promote Ibiza’s outstanding appeal to walkers, while establishing a lasting network of viable routes accessible to everyone.

To book Rob or one of the other IWA guides for a private walk, get in touch via the website: www.ibizawalkingassociation.com

MARTIN DAVIES AND BARBARY PRESS Martin Davies, editor and contributor to the present guide, first succumbed to the spell of Ibiza and its enigmatic culture during two cycling holidays in 1992, the year before he settled permanently on the island. Long rambles in the interior brought him into close contact with traditional Pityusan architecture, and in 1997 he completed a full-length study of this subject.

Since establishing Barbary Press in 1999 he has combined writing, translating and publishing, with eight popular titles to date exploring old photographs, archaeology, architecture, rural customs and birdlife.

Over the past fifteen years Martin has contributed about 180 articles to various journals, books and websites. The ‘Extra Step’ project for this book has allowed him to focus on overlooked byways of island history and ethnography, while also unearthing the surprising truth beneath Ibiza’s many myths and legends.

Further information on Martin’s publications can be found at his website, www.barbarypress.es c/ Murcia 10, 5º 1ª · 07800 Ibiza Tel. (+34) 971 39 99 89 / 609 87 56 89 martind@telefonica.net

GLOSSARY Here are a few useful Spanish terms you’ll come across in this book and on the walks:

SPANISH ENGLISH camino coto privado de caza chiringuito finca carrer (Catalan) / calle ayuntamiento bodega bocadillo tostada café caleta hierbas alioli

small dirt road private hunting reserve beach bar, often serving food traditional country house street town hall wine bar or cellar filled roll or baguette open-faced toasted sandwich coffee with cinnamon and brandy herb and aniseed liqueur garlic mayonnaise

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This book would not have been possible without the unconditional help from the following people. Rob would like to pass on his profound gratitude for their assistance.

Martin Davies, faultless editor and brilliant publisher, for his excellent work improving Rob’s writing and content. For his advice and introductions to everyone else who has helped on the book. And in particular, for his firm collaboration on all aspects, including the ‘Extra Step’ articles.

Rika Humphreys for her guidance, tips, opinions and corrections. Not to mention her magnificent German translation. Which is where a big thank you to Eva Ríos comes in as well, for her superb work as the Spanish translator.

Rika and Eva’s attention to all the last-minute changes did not go unnoticed.

In the production department, Ben Hoo for developing Rob’s basic layouts into the beautifully designed book you are holding now. Katie Halpin for some marvellous tweaking and proofing. Piers Wallace (Dog’s Body Design), Chunning Chang and Joan Costa Bonet for helping Rob tackle the daunting cartographic content. Lastly to Simon Borrough and Jo Kirby for their work on the final checks and design to bring everything to completion.

Big thanks, too, to all the island reseidents who gave tips on hidden pathways and spectacular viewpoints. Many chance meetings turned into spontaneous guided walks and Rob is not only grateful for the information, but also the company.

Finally, but by no means insignificantly, thanks to all who helped Rob in miscellaneous ways. Carmen Ferrer, Carmen Sánchez, Teresa Campillo Ángeles López, Joan Bosque, Mike and Rachel Wake, Detlev Baumhoff, Cat Milton, Brian and Di Whetton, Liisi Toom, Jim Arymer and Steve Marvell.

SPECIAL THANKS Rob would also like to mention his respect and appreciation of the late Rolf Hürten, author of the first walking guides for Ibiza. Rolf laid down most of the routes that are used by walkers on the island today. His small blue markings escorted Rob to the best locations and are the backbone of the research in this book.

The secret is out...

From tranquil coves and hidden pathways to romantic restaurants and pop-up beach bars, Secret Seeker guides guarantee an unbeatable day out at the most beautiful and unusual locations on Ibiza.

Also available in the Secret Seeker: Ibiza series

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Discover the true nature of Ibiza with Secret Walks: Ibiza North. Within these meticulously researched pages you will find...

– – – – –

18 spectacular walking routes of varying length and difficulty Detours and short-cuts that take you to secret beaches or incredible viewpoints Details of how to combine, shorten and adapt the routes for multiple variations The best local restaurants, bars, cafés and chiringuitos ‘Extra Step’ articles that reveal surprising secrets about island life

All this is packed into the book with...

– Easy-to-read maps and clear, detailed walking instructions – Hundreds of beautiful photographs – The Secret Seeker guarantee of an unbeatable day out “The best way to enjoy Ibiza’s environment is by walking along its paths. With this book Rob makes it easy, guiding us through the most beautiful inland and coastal tracks. ” Sandra Benbeniste, Director, Ibiza Preservation Fund PUBLISHED BY

“Ibiza is a natural treasure in need of protection. This book is a useful tool, not only for discovering the most extraordinary parts of the island, but for learning how to preserve and appreciate them to the fullest.”

Joan Lluís Ferrer, Diario de Ibiza

€15.00 (£12.50)

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www.secretseeker.com COPYRIGHT © 2015 ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND ISBN: 978-0-9569315-6-6

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