Secret Beaches: Ibiza

Secret

beaches

Ibiza

Discover the glorious isolation of The White Isle Rob Smith

TIDY TOURIST

COMING

soon...

Secret w

alks

Ibiza

27 walks of extrao rd revealed by forgo inary beauty tt en pathw Rob Sm ays ith

Š 2013 On

e More Gra

in Of Sand

for more information about the new SECRET WALKS series go to onemoregrainofsand.com ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND

Secret

beaches

Ibiza

This is a short preview The book is 192 full colour pages and features 27 secret beaches

First published by One More Grain Of Sand, 2012 This 2nd edition published by One More Grain Of Sand, 2013 (press@onemoregrainofsand.com) www.secretbeaches.co.uk www.onemoregrainofsand.com All content including text, photographs, maps and design Š Robert Smith

ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND

Printed by Cambrian Printers The moral right of Robert Smith to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act of 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from One More Grain Of Sand.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-0-9569315-3-5

Publisher’s Note Many of the walks within this publication follow steep rocky pathways which can be little used and are susceptible to erosion. Every effort has been made to provide sufficient warning where necessary. The publisher and author accept no responsibility for injuries or deaths that arise from following the suggested routes to access the beaches featured in this book. You are responsible for your own safety - rely on your own assessment of whether a particular route is suitable for your abilities or whether it has deteriorated to a point where it is no longer safe to use.

Coastal swimming is also hazardous. Make sure you inform yourself correctly about rip tides or other dangers before entering the water.

Names of beaches and towns and other names in this book have been given in the local language, Ibicenco, a dialect of Catalan Spanish.

2

INTRODUCTION Ibiza is a remarkable island and from the first moment I set foot on its dusty red soil I was smitten. With its bright white sunshine reflecting from the Mediterranean Sea and its air, heavy with the aroma of pine forests and wild thyme, Ibiza takes a unique hold on the senses. It generates a powerful and emotional effect which compels the visitor to dig deeper.

Many who visit Ibiza simply embrace the well publicised hedonism and rarely take the time to explore. Although the island’s ‘undiscovered’ side has been the subject of the occasional feature in a Sunday supplement, there remains a mystifying lack of guidebooks celebrating its natural beauty and diversity.

This is particularly baffling given that Ibiza’s tourist board is committed to establishing the island as a holiday destination for hikers, cyclists and nature lovers. So with the intention of showcasing the Ibiza I know best, far removed from its burgeoning population of bingeing tourists, I couldn’t wait to start my research.

Not that the island’s natural charms tell the full story. The people there are just as important. While exploring the island, I was lucky enough to meet every kind of resident: seasoned clubbers, dreadlocked travellers, smart and smiling business owners, honest and gentle farmers. From the beachloving locals in the South to the second generation expats in the North, Ibiza has always attracted a diverse population of residents and wanderers.

As I discovered, they all come for different reasons, yet all share a strong connection with this magical isle.

Without these incredibly warmhearted people, my work on this book would have been less enjoyable and my time on the island would be missing some fantastic moments. These pages are a tribute to them, as well as their wonderful home. An island to be proud of and to be treated with respect.

3

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK We hope you’ll find Secret Beaches: Ibiza easy to use. To get to any of the beaches, simply follow our directions and maps. Be sure to read our What to Expect section before you set out so you know if the beach access matches your abilities.

DRIVE MOSTLY ASPHALT EASY

WALK 2KM 40MINS MODERATE

SWIM NOT REQUIRED

DRIVE TO QUICK REFERENCE

The information here will tell you whether an access road is suitable for your car. If the approach to a particular beach is so rutted it’s likely to damage a hire car, we’ll point this out in the What to Expect description as well.

WALK TO QUICK REFERENCE

These details will allow you to judge whether the walk we have suggested is within your capabilities. For example, a short walk with a very steep hill will be classified as Difficult, while a long walk over flat, undemanding terrain will be classified as Moderate.

SWIM TO QUICK REFERENCE

Only a few of the beach access routes require a swim. We have marked the distance in metres and based the suggested times on a leisurely swimming pace in calm water.

Be sure to read the access directions and information thoroughly before attempting any of our suggested swims.

BEACH RATINGS

5

4

SWIMMING A rating of 5 means the beach slopes gently into the sea and there are no apparent strong currents offshore.

SNORKELLING With this you can judge the quality of crystal clear water and marine life that the island has to offer

SUNBATHING A high rating here means you should expect soft golden sand, smooth comfortable shingle or large smooth rocks to lounge upon.

3 NATURISM Being Ibiza, naturism is popular and on any secret beach you will encounter a birthday suit or two.

2 DIVING

High diving is not rated here.

A high score will mean plenty of small rocks from which to dive or jump into the water.

4

4

We’ve rated the different aspects of the beaches from one to five.

5

2 ISLANDS & CAVES

A rating of 5 means the beach is home to plenty of interesting caves and islands for you to explore.

SECLUSION A high rating means you’re unlikely to see anyone else on the beach, except on the very hottest, sunniest summer days.

CASTILIAN OR CATALAN? We have used the local language, a dialect of Catalan Spanish called Ibicenco, for all our names, texts and maps. This will mean that all the names you see in our book will match road signs and local directions.

Just in case you are supplementing our book with an official guidebook or map that is in Castilian Spanish, here is a list of the more common Catalan names with their Castilian equivalents:

CATALAN CASTILIAN Eivissa Sant Antoni Santa Eulària Es Canar Sant Josep Sant Rafel Sant Jordí Sant Miquel Santa Agnès Platja d’en Bossa Platja de ses Salines Platjes de ses Comptes

Ibiza San Antonio Santa Eulalia Es Caná San José San Rafael San Jorge San Miguel Santa Ines Playa d’en Bossa Playa de Las Salinas Cala Conta

PLACE NAMES Place names in Ibiza can be a real mouthful when rendered in full.

Everybody refers to Sant Joan de Labritja, for example, as Sant Joan.

For simplicity, in our directions we have followed these conventional abbreviations for all place names.

MAP KEY Walk route

Walk start/Finish point 2

★

Asphalt road

Walk direction number

Dirt road

Pitstop

P

Car park

C

Chiringuito/Beach bar

R

Restaurant

Pathway River/Stream Swim Route Extra walk/Shortcut

Secret beach Sunbathing rocks Other beach

88m

Land

Buildings

Forest Sea Cliffs

Lighthouse Pirate tower Church Nature reserve Viewpoint Datum height

100 m

Casete / Fisherman’s hut Approximate scale Tree Grass / Scrub

5

BITES, STINGS AND OTHER NASTY THINGS...

Ibiza’s reputation as a uniquely safe place to live or holiday is legendary, with Roman historians, Greek geographers and roving Arab scholars all variously hailing the very soil of the place for its protective qualities.

So convincing were these early legends that ancient kings used to drink from ceramics made with the local clay in the belief that it would repel the poison of any assassination attempt. Warriors also bought into the tale, reputedly carrying Ibicencan earth with them and spreading it around their tents to ward off deadly scorpions and snakes.

JELLYFISH The mythical protective earth of Ibiza, unfortunately, does not extend to the sea. If you swim regularly around Ibiza, you are likely to come across a jellyfish or two. Take the precaution of wearing a good pair of goggles to help spot them they are often a similar colour to the water - and on a lengthy swim it is advisable to wear a long sleeved t-shirt. The most common jellyfish you are likely to encounter is the Pelagia noctiluca - the ‘mauve stinger’ - which, while painful, does not pose any serious health risks.

SPIDERS Spiders will often spin webs between vegetation across pathways. Keep your eye out for these on our longer, more secluded walks.

SEA URCHINS These are common around the shores and in the rock pools of Ibiza. They’re easy to spot, so take care not to step on them - an urchin’s spike in your foot isn’t much fun on the dancefloor.

6

Today, the local Catalan and Balearic authorities prefer, quite naturally, to let the legend live on.

What ‘proof’ there is lies in historical texts giving specific examples: venomous snakes that were brought to the island died when they inhaled Ibiza’s air; imported scorpions dying after several months for unknown reasons.

Whatever the truth, today Ibiza is completely free of venomous serpents and deadly spiders.

Although that isn’t to say that there aren’t some nasties you might want to watch out for…

SNAKES Whether you believe the legends or not, there are no poisonous snakes living wild in Ibiza.

RIP-CURRENTS & STORMS Open water swimming can be risky and here the main dangers you’ll face are rip currents.

You should avoid swimming too far out to sea, so when following our recommended swim access routes, stay close to the shoreline and do not be tempted to take any shortcuts across open water. Generally, beaches in Ibiza are very safe, particularly if they’re protected by a bay. However, during bad weather, currents can appear quickly and become very powerful, so do not attempt any of our recommended swims unless conditions are perfect.

DIVING Always be absolutely sure of the depth of water before you dive or jump off rocks into the sea.

The Mediterranean has no substantial tide, but water levels can change by up to half a metre during the moon’s cycle, meaning a safe depth one day may be too shallow the next.

HOW TO USE QR-CODES QUICK RESPONSE CODES

The Secret Beach series of guidebooks are the first to make use of QR-code technology. You’ll find black-and-white code boxes printed alongside each beach, which provide access to online versions of the maps, walk directions and pitstop information that you can download to your phone – so you don’t have to carry the book with you when you visit the beaches. Installing the relevant software and downloading the beach information couldn’t be simpler. Here’s how to do it…

STEP 1

GO TO WWW.I-NIGMA.MOBI

OR YOUR APP STORE

STEP 2

FIRE UP THE QR-CODE READER AND SCAN A QR-CODE

STEP 3

GO ONLINE AND DOWNLOAD THE BEACH INFORMATION

Many Smartphones come with a QR-code reader – this is an App that employs the camera on your phone to scan codes and access online information.

If you don’t have a QR-code reader on your Smartphone, go to your App store to download one. Standard camera phone users can download the software from www.i-nigma.mobi

Once you’ve downloaded the QR-code reader, launch it as you would any other App. If you can’t find it in your Apps folder, look in your phone’s Downloads folder.

Your phone’s camera will automatically start looking for a QRcode to scan, so line it up over the one alongside your favourite beach.

Your phone will bleep when the QR-code has been scanned, and will ask you if you want to go online. Select Yes, and you will be taken directly to the relevant webpage.

Once you’re on the beach webpage, double-click on the pdf or jpeg file and all information will be downloaded to your Photo Gallery or your Downloads folder. You will then be able to access these files at any time.

7

CONTENTS Introduction 3 How to use this book 4 Bites, stings and other nasty things 6 How to use QR-codes 7 Contents and Ibiza map 8

THE BEACHES

8

1

Es Portitxol

12

2

Caló de s’Illa (Moon Beach)

18

3

Es Canaret

24

4

Cala de Xarraca - satellite beaches

30

5

S’Illot des Renclí - satellite beach

38

6

Caló des Pou

44

7

Cala d’en Serra

50

8

Port de ses Caletes

56

9

S’Aigua Dolça

62

10 Agua Blanca - satellite beach

70

11 Pou d’es Lleó

76

12 Caló Roig

82

13 Cala Blanca

88

14 Cala Recuita

94

15 Cala Llarga

100

16 Es Bol Nou

106

17 Cala Llentrisca

114

18 Cap des Jueu

120

19 Cap Blanc

126

20 Cala Truja

132

21 Cala Vedella - satellite beaches

138

22 Cala Tarida - satellite beaches

146

23 Cala Llentia

152

24 Cala Comte - satellite beaches

158

25 Cala Salada - satellite beaches

164

26 Ses Balandres

172

27 Cala d’Albarca

178

Pitstop maps and directions Best Beaches for...

Acknowledgements etc

184 188 192

3 2 1 27 Cala d’Albarca

26

Es Portitxol

Port de Sant Miquel

Cala de S. Vicent ES FIGUERAL

S. MIQUEL

S. CARLES

ES CANAR

S. GERTRUDIS

PORT DES TORRENT

21

Platja de S. Eulària

SIESTA

13

S. RAFEL

Cala Llonga

20 19

Es Vedrà

S. JORDÍ

ES CUBELLS

Cala d’Hort

JESÙS

IBIZA TOWN

S. JOSEP

CALA VEDELLA

Salt d’en Serrà

ROCA LISA

S. AGUSTÍ

Cala Vedella

Cala de Boix Cala Llenya 12 Platja des Canar

S. EULÀRIA

23 Cala Tarida

10 11

POU DES LLEO

S. ANTONI

22

9

S. LLORENC

CAN GERMÀ

Cala Bassa

8

S. JOAN

Cala Salada

Cala Comte

7

Cala d’en Serra

S. VICENT

S. AGNÈS

24

6

PORTINATX

Cala d’en Sardinia S. MATEU

25

5

4

Cala de Xarraca

s’Estanyol Talamanca Platja d’en Bossa

S. FRANCESC

14

Platja des Cubells

18

17

Port des Jondal

Sa Caleta

Platja des Cavallet

16 15

Platja de ses Salines

FORMENTERA

9

Es Portitxol

Ibiza’s natural beauty is present in all its glory at this perfect teardrop beach, dramatically sliced from the cliffs to form a natural harbour of translucent azure water. You reach this tiny stretch of protected shoreline by descending a precarious, rickety path, which only adds to the thrill of the location. Once there, it is easy to understand why the beach is so important to local fishermen, who use it as a social focal point as well as a place to store and launch their boats.

Our recommended access to the bay allows you to experience the historical rhythm of the island’s spellbinding coast by following the same route used by fishermen, pirates and marauding invaders for hundreds of years. Like them, you’ll be rewarded with incredible views of cliffs plunging into fathomless cerulean waters.

1

Es Portitxol What to Expect S. Joan

IBIZA S. Antoni

Ibiza Town S. Josep

14

S. Eulària

DRIVE

WALK

Swim

MOSTLY ASPHALT

2KM 40MINS

REQUIRED

EASY

MODERATE

NOT

The road to the parking area is asphalt. The walk to the beach is reasonably short and has panoramic views across the coastline - it’s steep in places, so the return can be strenuous. The beach on the left mainly consists of smooth, medium-sized pebbles, and you’ll find the best sunbathing on the right, on the slipway in front of the south-facing boat houses.

1 Getting There

5

-

Drive out of Sant Miguel and follow the signs to Sant Mateu.

After about 1.5km, the road forks. Take the right-hand fork signposted Sant Mateu Nord. Follow this road and the signs to Illa Blanca for around 3km.

1

Just before you reach Illa Blanca, you will ascend a steep hill. At the top, follow the road around to the left.

Drive down through the housing development until the asphalt road turns into a dirt road and you can go no further. Leave your car in the large parking area.

Walk down the dirt road towards the sea for 10 minutes then turn left when you meet another road.

On a sharp right-hand bend, you’ll see a high wall on your left and a small pathway leading straight ahead into the forest. Take this path and it will lead you around the headland next to the cliffs and down to Es Portitxol.

Full walk directions are available in the book

2 3 4

CL

IF

map in book shows Cap des Rubió walking route

FS

n

Es Portitxol

S’ Àguila

3 SUNBATHING

2 ISLANDS & CAVES

5 SWIMMING

Entrepenyas

24m

SECLUSION

109m

4 4 Ruins of Ancient Finca

Es Rubió

CLIFFS

SNORKELLING

3

2

Forest Forest

337m

P 327m

2

Forest

Illa Blanca

DIVING

3 Forest 200 m

to S. Mateu & S. Miquel

1

NATURISM

15

Es Portitxol

16

1 The Pitstop Ignore the deceptively residential frontage. Can Cires opens up to reveal a wonderfully atmospheric al fresco dining area and an eccentric owner who likes to wander around with a parrot on his shoulder. He’s from the French Alsace region and his Gallic roots are well in evidence, from the house speciality - a perfectly cooked, thin and crispy tarte flambée - to the outdoor petanque area.

This Franco-Spanish theme also extends to the interior, which is decorated with a perfectly restored classic French motorbike and large print photographs of the island’s coastline. Discerning sommeliers will be happy to know that the wine list includes a Vin d’Alsace Gerwurztraminer and as many as seven Ibicenco riojas and crianzas.

Can Cires, Sant Mateu. Tel: +34 971 80 55 51 (See page 202 for location map)

17

Calò de s’Illa (Moon Beach)

Take your first small step onto the shores of Calò de s’Illa and the reason for its local nickname - ‘Moon Beach’ - soon becomes apparent. Small craters filled with salt crystals randomly pock the flat rock of the headland, and there’s a distinctly lunar feel to this otherworldly location.

At the northern part of the beach, the shallow waters are accessed via a plateau of reddish, ironrich volcanic rock where you will share the sun with locals stretched out on thick towels. At the southern, pebbled side of the beach, the shoreline is marked by ramshackle fishermen’s cassettes and a carpet of dry, soft seaweed guarding the shallow waters of the bay. Overall, Calò de s’Illa is a seductive, peaceful place, where the setting sun’s downward glide is impeded only by a small craggy island floating on the horizon.

18

2

19

Calò de s’Illa What to Expect S. Joan

IBIZA S. Antoni

Ibiza Town S. Josep

20

S. Eulària

DRIVE

WALK

Swim

rutted dirt road

250m 5 mins

REQUIRED

HARD

EASY

NOT

The 1.5km dirt road is fairly bumpy and rutted, and will worry those in a hire car. Once at the parking spot, the two beach areas are only 5 minutes walk away and are easy to find with no difficult access paths. The area surrounding Calò de s’Illa, once forest, was devastated by the 2010 fire but is quickly growing back.

2 Getting There -

1

2 3

4

Drive north on the C-733. Just before Sant Joan, take a left turn and continue on the C-733 in the direction of Portinatx.

Follow this as it winds up and over a hill. After about 1.5km, opposite a small Agroturismo hotel, take the left turn on a right-hand bend, towards Calò de s’Illa.

Full walk directions are available in the book

This road is roughly 3km long. About halway along, it turns into a fairly rutted dirtroad. Keep following this until you reach an extremely sharp bend, at which point it becomes noticeably steeper and in much worse condition. Park on this corner, making sure you don’t block the road.

To reach the southern side of the beach, walk down the road a bit further and take the pathway on your right.

To reach the northern side of the beach, walk through the trees directly in front of the parking area. Here, small trails work their way through to the headland where a path cuts down the low cliff to the flat rock.

map in book shows walking route

SECLUSION

3 SUNBATHING

4 ISLANDS & CAVES

n

4

Punta de Llevant SWIMMING 6m

Illa d’Encalders

Punta Negra

4

3

Calò de s’Illa

3 P

1 48m

2

Forest

200 m

SNORKELLING

Calo d’Encalders

to S. Joan & Cala de Xarraca

DIVING

5

79m

Forest

NATURISM

21

Es Portitxol Calò de s’Illa

22

2 The Pitstop With a clientele that spans several local generations, there’s a tangible community feel to Café Vista Allegre.

Fittingly so, given that our accompanying beach is also primarily occupied by friendly locals.

The café’s small terrace, shaded by lemon and lime trees and smack bang in the centre of Sant Joan, is busy from morning to night. Here, you’ll see young mothers who have just dropped their kids off at the next door school sitting with their own parents, happily knitting and chatting in front of the television. The menu itself is unassuming, with a few fresh fish dishes, simple salads and some delicious homemade soups on offer, but the main attraction is the wonderful, welcoming atmosphere.

Café Vista Allegre, Sant Joan. Tel: +34 971 33 30 08 (See page 202 for location map)

23

Es Canaret

Dominated by a large island and overlooked by a castle-like villa, sweeping Es Canaret catches the sun all day long and is packed with hidden features.

But it doesn’t give up its charms easily, and you’ll need a handful of adventurous skills to access each varied nook of this dramatic cove.

Even the approach offers a challenge. Keen to stay dry? You’ll need to ‘boulder’ your way along a thin ledge on the waterfront, using the stony wall for handholds. If you don’t mind getting wet, the alternative is a short wade through shallow waters. Reaching the larger beach requires a testing fifteen minute swim across the deep bay, so most will prefer the more restful pursuits on offer: sunbathing on the angled slipway, or experiencing the snorkelling wonderland hidden beneath the waters around the nearby island.

3

Es Canaret What to Expect S. Joan

IBIZA S. Antoni

Ibiza Town S. Josep

26

S. Eulària

DRIVE

WALK

Swim

Partly dirt road

750m 10 mins

Optional 400m

MODERATE

MODERATE

HARD

The parking area overlooks the bay. From here it’s an easy walk down the hill to the slipway, which is free from sea grass but can be crowded in high season as this is the best spot for sunbathing. The two beaches are rocky - particularly the beach accessed via the swim across the bay.

3 Getting There -

1 2

3

4

Drive north on the C-733. Just before Sant Joan, take a left turn and continue on the C-733 in the direction of Portinatx.

Follow this as it winds up and over a hill. After about 1.5km, opposite a small Agroturismo hotel, take the left turn on a right-hand bend, towards Calò de s’Illa.

Follow this for just over 1km and turn right onto the road signed Cala de Xarraca.

After 250m, the third dirt road on your left should have a bollard half painted orange on the corner. This will lead you to a car park overlooking the bay.

Full walk directions are available in the book

Park up and follow the signs for the sendero publico - public footpath - which will lead you down to the slipway in about 10 minutes.

To access the small beach, either ‘boulder’ along the ledge to your left or wade through the shallows. Then make your way along past the villa and its boat house to the far side where a scramble down rocks will give you access to the shore.

The larger beach on the far side of the bay should be approached with caution.

It’s a long, steady swim directly across the deep waters - not for the faint-hearted as you’re committed after a certain point. Take flotation aids or empty water bottles if alone or unsure.

SECLUSION

4 SUNBATHING

5 ISLANDS & CAVES

5

map in book shows n walking route 73m

SWIMMING

5 1

Es Canaret m 0 40

im w S

3

P SNORKELLING ‘bouldering’ section

4

2

C L IF

to S. Joan & Cala de Xarraca

FS

Forest

(damaged by fire)

DIVING

4 Forest

(damaged by fire)

100 m

114m

NATURISM

27

Es Portitxol Canaret

28

3 The Pitstop It’s a fairly long drive to this pitstop, but the setting - all ancient swollen vines and rustic lime trees - means it complements the flavour of Es Canaret perfectly.

Be prepared for a meat feast. The single page menu is dominated by hefty, tender cuts, so big that the owners don’t even bother weighing them, as they know they will be large enough to tame every appetite. Make sure you try the succulent Iberico pig, cooked rare and garnished with crushed sea salt - incredible. If you’re overfaced by the prospect of all that protein, try the Andalucian gazpacho as a lighter alternative. Whichever you choose, wash it down with the hierbas ibicencas, a digestif bottled by a farmer just up the road and supplied exclusively to the restaurant.

Can Muson De Sa Vila , Sant Joan. Tel: +34 971 32 50 82 (See page 202 for location map)

29

Cala de Xarraca

The locals like to describe Cala de Xarraca as a giant swimming pool, and when you snatch glimpses of it on the route down to the beach you’ll soon understand why. There’s a calmness here, broken only by the movement of water caressing the gently shifting seabed. Dozens of tiny islands break the surface of the crystal clear blue waters, some no more than rocks from which you can dive back into the sea, others teeming with fascinating sealife just waiting to be discovered.

Ignore the main beach at Cala de Xarraca. Instead, head for either of the smaller stretches of sand that flank it. Access the one to the left via a short rocky scramble, while the one to the right requires a short swim. Both are well worth the effort.

4

Cala de Xarraca What to Expect S. Joan

IBIZA S. Antoni

Ibiza Town S. Josep

32

S. EulĂ ria

DRIVE

WALK

Swim

Mostly Asphalt

300m for both

Optional 100m

EASY

EASY

EASY

The main beach and car parks at Cala de Xarraca are well signposted and easy to find. In high season, the area will be busy and parking difficult. If so, try the car park down the dirt road to the northeast.

Once you’re on the beach itself, explore the nooks and crannies and find yourself a little spot to hang out for the day. Most areas are accessible by foot.

4 Getting There

n 54m

3 SUNBATHING

4 ISLANDS & CAVES

5 SWIMMING

Cala de Xarraca

Jumping & Diving here

P

5

2m

3

IF

100m Swim

FS

SNORKELLING 1

CL

3

SECLUSION

2

to Portinatx

4

33

2

The main beach is directly in front of the car park. For the first satellite beach, walk left along the sand and clamber over the small headland on the far side.

For the second, stand in front of the beach bar and look right. You’ll see the small fisherman’s boathouse and steps cut into the headland just behind it. Walk up these to the other side.

A quick splash of water and a 50m swim to the shore will have you reclining in the sun in no time. Access is also possible along a precarious path and steps. From this beach you can clamber over rocks to your right and past more fishermen’s huts to access a rocky outcrop: perfect for jumping and diving.

C7

1

FS

-

Drive north on the C-733. Just before Sant Joan, take a left turn and continue on the C-733 in the direction of Portinatx.

After about 3km take the left turn signposted Cala de Xarraca and you will find the beach car park at the bottom of the hill. Park here.

C L IF

-

3

P

P 100 m

DIVING Forest

4

to S. Joan NATURISM

33

Es Portitxol Cala de Xarraca

34

4 The Pitstop Cal Lluqui is where the locals come to escape the burgers and hotdogs of tourist-saturated Portinatx and experience some of the authentic rustic cooking they were brought up on. It’s a large, lively bar where much of the food is barbecued. Hungry individuals are offered the choice of six types of fresh fish, cooked on a traditional hanging basket grill that swings gently over smouldering charcoal.

Lunch is usually calm, but the place comes alive in the evening with live music in high season and even trance parties throbbing away until the small hours every Saturday.

Restaurante Cal Lluqui, Sant Joan. Tel: +34 646 71 43 49 (See page 202 for location map)

35

PITSTOPS WITH LOCATION SHOWN ON BEACH MAPS

Cala de Xarraca Port de Sant Miquel Es Portitxol Cala d’Albarca Cala d’en Sardinia 26

Restaurant S’Illot des Renclí Tel: +34 971 32 05 85 (p.41)

5

Cala Salada

Cala d’en Serra Chiringuito No telephone (p.53)

7

24

Cala Comte

Tel: +34 971 32 68 62 (p.73) Cala Tarida

12 El Bigotes, Cala Mastella

Tel: +34 650 79 76 33 (p.85)

21

Cala Vedella

14 La Escollera, Platja des Cavallet

Tel: +34 971 39 65 72 (p.97)

Cala d’Hort

Can Masia, Platja de Ses Salinas Tel: +34 697 45 70 82 (p.103)

Es Vedrà

S. MIQUEL

27

S. MATEU

8

9 Cala de 10 S. Vicent

11

3

S. GERTRUDIS

S. CARLES

S. EULÀRIA

S. RAFAEL

Cala de Boix 12 Cala Llenya

Platja de S. Eulària

Salt d’en Serrà s’Estanyol

IBIZA TOWN

S. JOSEP

Platja des Canar

13

Cala Llonga ROCA LISA JESÙS

Talamanca

S. JORDI

20 19

7 S. VICENT

ES FIGUERAL

S. LLORENC

S. AGUSTÍ

CALA VEDELLA

2

SIESTA

PORT DES TORRENT

18

6

ES CANAR

S. ANTONI

Cala Bassa

23 22

S. JOAN

25 CAN GERMÀ

10 Aguas Blancas Beach Bar

15

1

S. AGNÈS

Cala d’en Serra

4

5

PORTINATX

ES CUBELLS Platja d’en Bossa S. FRANCESC 17 16 Platja des Sa 14 Cubells Caleta Platja des Port des 15 Cavallet Jondal Platja de ses Salines

16 Sa Caleta, Es Bol Nou

Tel: +34 971 18 70 95 (p.109) 20 Es Boldado, Cala D’Hort

Tel: +34 626 49 45 37 (p.135)

SANTA AGNÈS

21 Cafetería Bon Sol, Cala Vedella

1

2

Tel: +34 971 80 82 13 (p.141) SANT MATEU

22 Ses Eufabies, Cala Tarida

Tel: +34 971 80 63 28 (p.148)

P

★

23 Cala Codolar Chiringuito

P

★

No telephone (p.155)

SANT VICENT

SANTA GERTRUDIS & SANT ANTONI

100 M

100 M

CIRES, SANT MATEU ★ CAN TEL: +34 971 80 55 51

VISTA ALLEGRE, SANT JOAN ★ CAFÉ TEL: +34 971 33 30 08

PORTINATX

3

SANT LLORENÇ

4

6

C-73 3

26KM MARKER

★ Cala Xuclar

★

PORTINATX

SANT CARLES

P

P

P

C-733

SANT LLORENÇ

C-7 33

C-73 3

15KM MARKER

MUSON DE SA VILA , SANT JOAN ★ CAN TEL: +34 971 32 50 82

100 M

CALA DE XARRACA & SANT JOAN

CAL LLUQUI, SANT JOAN ★ RESTAURANTE TEL: +34 646 71 43 49

11

-8

PM

SANT JOAN

IBIZA

11

IBIZA

P

PM-8

25KM MARKER

★

PORTINATX

C-733

202

11

Tel: +34 971 80 50 20 (p.175)

100 M

SANT JOAN

C-733

TO IBIZA TOWN

26 C’an Cosmi, Santa Agnès

16KM MARKER

PM

PM-8

SANT MIQUEL

Tel: +34 661 347 222 (p.161)

11

-8

C-7 33

24 Sunset Ashram, Cala Comte

SANT JOAN

P

PORTINATX

SANT VICENT 100 M

NATURALES, SANT JOAN ★ SABORES TEL: +34 609 93 84 75

PORT DE SES CALETES

8

7KM MARKER

P

★

9 CA N’ALLÀ DINS

SANT VICENT & SANT JOAN

PM

-8

11

P

11

P

CALA LLENYA

SANT CARLES 100 M

100 M

CASA LUNA, SANT VICENT TEL: +34 971 32 03 54

★

100 M

ON THE BEACH, CALA DE SANT VICENT TEL: +34 971 32 01 15

FIND YOUR PITSTOP ★

LE NT SA ÇAYA CAL A DE PLPAN 0 1 LE ES -8

L

PM

L L SO C. DE

NA RE DO

GE AL

UM JA

T AN ES ED LL CA

13

SANT JOSEP & CALA VEDELLA

AN JO

CALA VEDELLA (2KM)

17

18

P

A EL ED LL CA

SI

★

★

R MA

P

ES CUBELLS

SANT JOSEP

SANTA EULÀRIA Platja de Santa Eulària

OT AR .G .C A.R

Some of the beach maps do not show the location of the corresponding pitstop. These maps will help you find them.

RA

P

C.

N SA

ME

UG

O NT

PI

ET

DE

A RA ’AL ME E S LA . D PG

i ME

RS

C.

S’A

E

LL

CA

N SA

UM JA

E

T

DE

.D

E

PG

CA

T

T

EN

C VI

Z UE EL RIG RC OD LCA VA DE

L CA

ANITA, SANT CARLES ★ BAR TEL: +34 971 33 50 90

E

SE JO

R C.

DE

LE

N SA

P

PM-810

6KM MARKER

★

Cala de Sant Vicent

★

SANT CARLES

SANTA EULÀRIA

PM -8 10

SANT VICENT

★

P

-8

PM

SANT JOAN

11

SANT VICENT PM-810

CALA DE SANT VICENT

SANTA EULÀRIA ★ SANDY’S, TEL: +34 971 33 80 34

CALA D’HORT

Platja des Cubells

50 M

50 M

100 M

POU, CALA VEDELLA ★ CA’S TEL: +34 971 80 81 53

LLUMBI, ES CUBELLS ★ BAR TEL: +34 971 80 21 28

19

SANTA AGNÈS

25

27

CALA SALADA

P

P

PM-812

Cala d’Hort

P

CAN GERMA

ES CUBELLS CALA VEDELLA & SANT JOSEP

100 M

CALA D’HORT ★ RESTAURANTE TEL: +34 971 93 50 36

★

P

SANT MATEU

★

SANTA AGNÈSI SANT MIQUEL PM-812

★

SANT ANTONI

50 M

CAN POU, CAN GERMA ★ RESTAURANTE TEL: +34 971 34 01 70

SANTA GERTRUDIS & SANT ANTONI 100 M

CAMP VELL, SANT MATEU ★ ES TEL: +34 971 80 50 36

203

BEST BEACHES FOR...

SECLUSION & NATURISM Caló des Pou S’Aigua Dolça Cap des Jueu Cap Blanc Cala d’Albarca

PAGE

44

PAGE

62

PAGE

120

PAGE

126

PAGE

178

PAGE

12

PAGE

44

PAGE

62

PAGE

172

PAGE

178

PAGE

70

PAGE

100

PAGE

106

PAGE

114

PAGE

146

LONG HIKES Es Portitxol Caló des Pou S’Aigua Dolça Ses Balandres Cala d’Albarca

SUNBATHING Agua Blanca Cala Llarga Es Bol Nou Cala Llentrisca Cala Tarida 204

SWIMMING Cala de Xarraca Caló Roig Cap Blanc Cala Vedella Cala Tarida

PAGE

30

PAGE

82

PAGE

126

PAGE

138

PAGE

146

PAGE

18

PAGE

30

PAGE

50

PAGE

70

PAGE

106

PAGE

126

PAGE

138

PAGE

158

PAGE

164

PAGE

172

FAMILIES Caló De s’Illa Cala de Xarraca Cala d’en Serra Agua Blanca Es Bol Nou

SUNSETS Cap Blanc Cala Vedella Cala Comte Cala Salada Ses Balandres

205

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Rob has always had a love of beaches and swimming which stems from long summer holidays spent in Southwest England as a child. In his late teens, he moved to France to follow his passion for cooking. Working his way up from plongeur to chef at a variety of restaurants, Rob travelled from Provence to Paris before returning to the UK to establish The Shoreditch Map. This monthly listings magazine, for which he wrote about venues and events across the East London neighbourhood, ran for over 80 issues before he passed it on as a successful enterprise. These days, Rob lives in London but escapes to the country in his selfconverted campervan at every opportunity. During the research for this book, he visited every accessible part of Ibiza’s coastline.

Secret Beaches: Ibiza is the second book in the Secret Beaches series that Rob intends to produce about the secluded shores in the UK and abroad.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Rob would like to say a huge thank you to Becky; Matt and Ewan; Julieta, Roswitha and Eva for their faultless work and help with the production of this book.

Thanks also go to the following for their support, advice, encouragement, hospitality, laughter and friendship: Stephen Swire, Dan Darvey; Detlev, Rayner and Morgane; Francoise, Francis, Mark, Toby, Hayden, Adrian, Johan; friends and family.

Big thanks, too, to all who kindly gave tips on locations of secret beaches that Rob had not yet discovered and all those who follow Rob’s blog at www.onemoregrainofsand.com

GIVE YOUR SUPPORT By joining or donating to any of the following charities and organisations, you will be helping to ensure that the beauty and magnificence of Ibiza and other coastlines around the world will be maintained for generations to come.

Healing Ibiza raises funds by providing holistic treatments and donates proceeds to help Ibiza’s people, land and shores. www.healingibiza.com 208

Ibiza Preservation Fund organises events and protects wildlife habitats on land and in the sea. www.ibizapreservationfund.org Tidy Tourist is a campaign that encourages tourists to reduce any negative impact they may have on places they visit. www.tidytourist.com

ALSO AVAILABLE

from the SECRET BEACHES series...

PLUS Secret Beaches: Ibiza English, Spanish and German editions now available

Southwest

Wales

COMING SOON a new book series SECRET WALKS

Secret

walks

Ibiza 27 walks of extraordinary beauty revealed by forgotten pathways

Secret

walks

danevd ornnwall co 27 walks of extraordinary beauty revealed by forgotten pathways

© 2013 One More Grain Of Sand

Ibiza

ALL BOOKS AVAILABLE

for immediate delivery or pre-publication reserve at secretbeaches.co.uk or amazon.co.uk

COMING SOON from SECRET BEACHES

Secret

beaches

Secret

beaches

The English Isles

La France

Devon & Cornwall

Shhh!

Don’t tell the French

The Scillies, Channels, Wight, Mann and more.

In all their magnificent beauty.

ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND

Rob Smith

The English Isles

Rob Smith

France

Secret Beaches: Ibiza is a unique guide to the hidden side of The White Isle - the beaches and coves that sit in breathtaking seclusion, far away from the clubs and crowds that the island is famous for. Beautifully illustrated with lavish photography and detailed maps, it contains all the information you’ll need to find your own private corner of paradise.

The Secret Beaches series of travel books are the first to use the latest QR-code technology, meaning you can download everything onto your smartphone, leave the book at home and get on with the real business of exploring.

‘Rob has found the most beautiful beaches on Ibiza: the secret, the mythical and the magical. But perhaps more importantly, he has found a side of the island that is loved by many cultures and blessed with beauty. This is a book to read with all five senses.’

SANDRA DEL RÍO EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER_SPAIN

PUBLISHED BY

ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND Copyright © 2013 ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND www.onemoregrainofsand.com ISBN: 978-0-9569315-3-5

£ 17.50 € 20.00

‘The unique quality of this book is likely to appeal as much to those living on the island, as to visiting tourists. With his stunning photography and evocative words, the author has successfully captured part of the true essence of Ibiza.’

DAN DARVEY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF THE IBIZA SUN

ISBN 978-0-9569315-3-5

9 780956 931535