Secret
beaches Wales
The sensational Welsh coastline and its undisclosed beaches
Morlin syfrdanol Cymru a’i thraethau cêl
Rob Smith
TIDY TOURIST
Help clear our beaches of marine litter www.tidytourist.com
Cilfachau cudd
Cymru
Publisher’s Notes. Your safety. Many of the walks within this publication follow steep rocky pathways. Every effort has been made to provide sufficient warning where necessary and we have also graded the beach access routes. Some of these pathways can be little used and are susceptible to erosion. The publisher and author accept no responsibility for injuries or deaths that arise from following the suggested routes to access the beaches featured in this book. You are responsible for your own safety. You should rely on your own assessment of whether a particular route is suitable for your abilities or whether it has deteriorated to a point where it is no longer safe to use. Coastal swimming is also hazardous. Make sure you inform yourself correctly about rip tides or other dangers before entering the water. Place names and beach names. To avoid confusion, all place names have been standardised to match the Ordnance Survey Explorer maps. Where the OS data is insufficient or incorrect, local names have been used. one Published by One More Grain Of Sand 2012 1st Edition more grain www.secretbeaches.co.uk / www.onemoregrainofsand.com of sand press@onemoregrainofsand.com All content including text, photographs (unless otherwise stated), maps and design Š Rob Smith Edited by Becky Fountain Maps by Max Letvenenko, Artem Barkhin, Rob Smith Welsh translation by Annes Gruffydd Photography by D. Evans, P. Mattock, N. Davison, S. Fitzgerald, M. Stokes, J. Baxter, M. Hartland, J. Smith, Rob Smith The moral right of Rob Smith to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act of 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from One More Grain Of Sand. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-0-9569315-2-8
2
Introduction A book on the Welsh coastline seemed like a natural progression after having published Secret Beaches: Southwest, both geographically and personally. With Wales sitting just to the north of Southwest England, it is somewhere I had already spent a fair amount of time and like the Westcountry, I knew parts of it well. During some initial research, I discovered that the detached parts of the Wales Coast Path were to be fully connected in Spring 2012, creating the longest uninterrupted walking route in the United Kingdom and pipping the Southwest Coastal Path by over 100 miles. I decided to aim to produce Secret Beaches: Wales for the path’s inauguration weekend at the beginning of May and so headed off to Wales in February, keeping my fingers crossed for some crisp and dry winter mornings. By the time the daffodils were appearing on St. David’s Day, despite having received a generous share of those brittle and frosted mornings, the book was by no means finished. I was making excellent progress with the research, but realised that the photography was holding things up, so I started to approach local photographers in the hope that I could include their work in the book. This is when I truly experienced the affable nature of the Welsh and the genuine pride they have in their country. People were so friendly and interested to hear about what I was doing, always passing on their luck and best wishes. Several photographers even dedicated time to sifting through their archives for me, finding forgotten photos of the unsung beaches I had chosen for the book. I hope you will agree that the resulting pages, with the participation of these excellent photographers, offer a breathtaking photographic portrait of the Welsh coast. I owe a huge favour to the people of Wales for their hospitality and their help with my research. Without them, I could not have produced something worthy of their incredible country. Thank you Cymru.
Ar ôl i mi gyhoeddi Secret Beaches: Southwest y cam nesaf naturiol i’m tyb i, yn ddaearyddol ac yn bersonol, oedd llyfr am forlin Cymru. Gan fod Cymru’n sefyll yn union i’r gogledd o Dde-orllewin Lloegr, roeddwn eisoes wedi treulio cryn dipyn o amser yno ac, run fath â De-orllewin Lloegr, roeddwn yn nabod rhannau ohoni’n dda. Yn ystod ymchwil ddechreuol cefais ar ddeall y byddai’r rhannau o Lwybr Arfordir Cymru lle’r oedd bylchau yn cael eu cysylltu yng ngwanwyn 2012, gyda chreu’r llwybr cerdded di-dor hwyaf yn y Deyrnas Unedig gan drechu Llwybr Arfordir De-orllewin Lloegr o dros gan milltir. Penderfynais amcanu at gynhyrchu Secret Beaches: Wales ar gyfer penwythnos ei agor ddechrau mis Mai a dyma fi’n ei chychwyn hi am Gymru ym mis Chwefror, gan feddwl ‘hei lwc y ca’ i foreau o aeaf iach a sych’. Erbyn i’r cennin Pedr ddod i’r fei Ddygwyl Dewi, er gwaethaf cael cyfran ddibrin o’r boreau brau barugog hynny, doedd y llyfr ddim wedi’i orffen o bell ffordd. Roedd yr ymchwil yn mynd yn ei blaen yn gampus, ond sylweddolais fod y lluniau’n llesteirio fy hynt felly dechreuais fynd ar ofyn tynwyr lluniau lleol gan obeithio y gallwn gynnwys eu gwaith yn y llyfr. Dyma’r adeg y gwelais go iawn radlonrwydd y Cymry a’u bod nhw’n wirioneddol falch o’u gwlad. Roedd pobol mor gyfeillgar ac yn ymddiddori mewn clywed be oedd gen i ar y gweill, a phob amser yn dymuno pob hwyl a phopeth o’r gorau i mi. Rhoddodd sawl tynnwr lluniau o’i amser hyd yn oed i gribinio’i archifau i mi, i gael hyd i luniau aethai dros gof o’r traethau anhysbys roeddwn wedi’u dewis at y llyfr. Gobeithio eich bod yn gytûn bod y tudalennau canlynol, gyda help llaw’r tynwyr lluniau rhagorol hyn, yn cynnig portread o lannau Cymru sy’n ddigon i fynd â’ch gwynt chi. Mae arna i gymwynas enfawr i bobol Cymru am eu croeso ac am eu cymorth yn f’ymchwil. Hebddyn nhw, ni allaswn yn fy myw gynhyrchu rhywbeth teilwng o’u gwlad anhygoel. Diolch iti Gymru.
3
How To Use This Book We hope you’ll find Secret Beaches: Wales easy to use. Below is a brief run-down of the information you will find for each beach and how it should be interpreted.
Walk Information These boxes are for quick reference and will allow you to judge whether the walk we’ve suggested is within your capabilities. Walk Duration How long it would take someone to complete the entire walk across rough terrain at an average walking speed with no stops. Walk Distance Given in kilometres. Walk Grade Classed as Easy, Moderate or Difficult. A short walk that includes a very steep hill may be classed as Difficult, while a long walk over flat, undemanding terrain may be classed as Moderate or Easy. Beach Access Classed as Easy, Moderate, Difficult or Extreme. A beach might be easy to walk to, but if the access pathway down to it from the headland is long and steep, we’ve classed it as Difficult. Take great care when descending to beaches listed as Extreme.
Beach Quality Ratings We’ve rated the different aspects of the beaches from one to five – with five being the best or highest rating.
4 SWIMMING A rating of 5 means the beach slopes gently into the sea and there are no apparent strong currents offshore.
5
4
1
SECLUSION
SUNBATHING
DIVING
A high rating means you’re unlikely to see anyone else on the beach, except on the very hottest, sunniest summer days.
A high rating here means you should expect soft golden sand, smooth comfortable shingle or large smooth rocks to lounge upon.
High diving is not rated here. A high score will mean plenty of small rocks from which to dive or jump into the water.
3 ROCKPOOLS and caves A rating of 5 means the beach is home to plenty of interesting caves and rockpools for you to explore.
Other Information Postcodes To supplement our maps and directions each beach has a postcode that will direct a sat-nav device to the closest postcode to the car park. Be aware that some postcode areas can be large, so make sure you read our Getting There information as well. Grid References You will also find a grid reference for the actual beach location. This should be used with Ordnance Survey Explorer or Landranger maps. High & Low Tide Boxes This provides quick reference information about what to expect from the beach. This information is expanded upon in Ebb & Flow. Ebb & Flow This text will tell you about the beach itself and if there are any dangers you should be aware of. This, coupled with all the other information, will enable you to make a good assessment as to whether the walk or beach access suits your abilities. 4
How to use QR-codes (Quick Reference Codes)
The Secret Beaches series of guidebooks are the first to make use of QR-code technology. We use them to provide access to online versions of the beach information. Here’s how they work…
Step 1 Make sure you have a QR-Code reader on your smartphone. If you don’t, you will find plenty of them online at an ‘App Store’. Most of them are free to download and install.
Step 2 Launch your QR-Code reader as you would any other App. Your phone’s camera will automatically start looking for a QR-Code to scan, so line it up over the one alongside your chosen beach.
Step 3 Your phone will bleep when the QR-code has been scanned, and will ask you if you want to go online. Select Yes, and you will be taken directly to one of our webpages that has been set up for that particular beach. Once you’re on the beach webpage, double-click on either the pdf or the jpeg file and all information will be downloaded to your Photo Gallery or Downloads folder. You will then be able to access these files at any time without network reception. (Some phones do not have a Downloads folder and the downloaded files are stored within the QRCode App itself. Launch the App and look in its settings and history to find it.)
MAP KEY Lighthouse Beacon Mast Fort / Tower Castle Church
88m
500 m
★
Pathway
Walk direction number
River / stream
Pitstop
Alternative walking route
Nature reserve Viewpoint Datum height
C
Other pub or Cafe
P
Car park
Secret Beach
Buildings Wind Farm
P
Parking for pitstop
Other Beach
Public toilets
Cliffs
Walking route
Land / Forest
Road / lane
Sea / Lake
Trees Scrub Grass or Fields
n
2
Walk start / finish point
Compass Scale
T
60
Contour Line with height
5
Contents Introduction How to use this book How to use QR-codes Contents Map of Wales
Page 3 4 5 6 7
The Beaches 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
Traeth Mawr Brandy Bay, Pwlldu Bay and Bantam Cove Fall Bay Skrinkle Haven Presipe Barafundle Bay and Box Beach Lindsway Bay Watwick Bay Albion Sands Musselwick Sands Porthmynawyd Gwadn Porthlysgi Porthmelgan Traeth Llyfn Porthsychan Aber Rhigian Traeth Morfa Aber Castell Whitesands Bay Porth Ceiriad Porth Ysgo Porth Iago and Porth Ferin Porth Widlin Borth Wen Porth Dinllaen Traeth yr Eifl Llanddwyn Island Porth Cwyfan Traeth Llydan Cemlyn Bay Porth Padrig The Northernmost Beaches Porth y Corwgl Traeth yr Ora Porth Dyniewaid
Beach & Pitstop Index Pro Photographers’ details & photo credits Best Beaches for... Acknowledgements etc 6
10 16 22 28 34 40 48 54 60 66 72 78 84 92 98 104 112 118 124 130 138 144 150 156 162 168 174 180 188 194 200 206 212 228 236 244 252 253 254 256
32 33
31 holyhead bay
CEMAES
34
AMLWCH
35
36
ANGLESEY HOLYHEAD
LLANDUDNO COLWYN BAY
BEAUMARIS
VALLEY
MENAI BRIDGE
30 29
DEESIDE
28 caernarfon bay
CAERNARFON
27
DENBIGHSHIRE WREXHAM
WREXHAM
BLANAU FFESTINIOG PORTHMADOG
NEFYN
Y BALA
PWLLHELI
20
23
GWYNEDD
aberdaron
21
22
BETWS-Y-COED
PENYGROES
2526 24
FLINTSHIRE
CONWY VALLEY
BARMOUTH DOLGELLAU
WELSHPOOL
LLANFAIR CAEREINION TYWYN
cardigan bay
irish sea
MACHYNLLETH
ABERDOVEY TREFALDWYN
POWYS ABERYSTWYTH
LLANGURIG
CEREDIGION
19 18
ABERAERON
LLANDRINDOD WELLS
TREGARON
CWMTYDU LLANGRANNOG
16
17
PEMBROKESHIRE
14
GLASBURY
FISHGUARD
15 ST. DAVID’S
BUILTH WELLS
LAMPETER
CARDIGAN
LLANDOVERY
CARMARTHENSHIRE
BRECON
SOLVA
13
12
11
LLANDEILO
NEWGALE HAVERFORDWEST
BWLCH
CARMARTHEN
MONMOUTHSHIRE
10
ABERGAVENNY
DALE
9 8 7
PEMBROKE
6
TENBY
5
4
NEATH
LLANELLI
carmarthen bay
SWANSEA SWANSEA
MERTHYR TYDFIL ABERDARE
THE VALLEYS
NEATH PORT TALBOT
PONTYPOOL
BLACKWOOD CWMBRAN
RHOSSILI
3
NEWPORT
2
swansea bay
PONTYPRIDD
CARDIFF
BRIDGEND PORTHCAWL
CARDIFF
GLAMORGAN
1
LLANTWIT MAJOR
bristol channel
7
Traeth Mawr Rising to over one hundred metres in places, the sheer headlands surrounding Traeth Mawr are an impressive sight. The scale and peculiarity of the land formations have created an intense atmosphere that borders on science fiction. At low tide, stretches of sand are interspersed with vast sheets of flat rock, so perfectly cobbled in places that you would think they were laid down by a skilled mason. These chance combinations of rock, sea and time, and the layered cliffs towering above you, serve as a reminder that when high tide approaches, the sea will sweep across the shore to continue its ancient battle with the land. Mewn mannau mae’r penrhynion serth o gwmpas Traeth Mawr dros gan medr o uchdwr ac yn ddigon i fynd â’ch gwynt chi. Mae ffurfiannau’r tir mor fawr ac mor rhyfedd fel eu bod yn creu awyrgylch dwys sydd am y dim â bod yn ffuglen wyddonol. Pan fo’r môr ar drai mae haenau enfawr o graig lefn yn britho’r lleiniau o dywod, wedi’u coblo mor berffaith yma a thraw fel y taerech mai saer maen deheuig a’u gosododd. Bu yma gydasio ar hap y creigiau a’r môr ac amser, a’r clogwyni’n dyrau haenog uwch eich pennau sy’n eich atgoffa ar droad y llanw bod y môr ar fin sgubo ar draws y traeth i barhau ei hen frwydr â’r tir. 10
ŵêŷ
1
11
Traeth Mawr Getting There
Irish Sea HOLYHEAD
Monknash is about 7 kilometres northwest of Llantwit Major. Follow the Wick Road (B4265) out of the town and follow signs for Broughton and Monknash when you see them. The car park is down the lane past the Plough and Harrow. Don’t forget the honesty box.
LLANDUDNO
BARMOUTH
Irish Sea ABERYSTWYTH
CARPARK P’CODE
CF71 7QQ
ST. DAVID’S
SWANSEA
Atlantic Ocean
OS MAP BEACH CARDIFF
Bristol Channel
★
SS 902,707
Mgos to Bridgend
Earthwork
WICK
5 65
75
Whitmore Stairs
Ty’r Green Farm
4
Clearhill House
Monks Wood
95
Earthwork Cwrt-y-mynach Glan-y-Mor
Traeth Bach
85 ium nn le Mil Trail ys wa age le it Va Her
Clawdd-y-mynach
Broughton 75
65
Monastic Grange
Traeth Mawr
(remains of)
Ffynnon Fair
Monknash
Mill Farm
55
3
n 500 m
12
New Mill Farm
P 65m
6
to Llantwit Major
2
1
★
P
k oo Br sh Na
Blaen-y-cwm
Plough & Harrow
65 75
1 Ebb & Flow
3
Take care as your time here approaches high tide. The sea will submerge the sand and flat rocks, encroaching up to the rocky slope under the cliffs. This makes slow walking so make sure you leave plenty of time to either continue our route along the shore or return the way you came. LOW TIDE
HIGH TIDE
wide patches of sand interspersed with flat sections of rock. plenty of space.
no real access. the sea comes in right up to the cliffs and the walking route is inaccessible.
Walk Directions 1
4 SECLUSION
2
Turn left out of the car park and walk down the lane until it turns into a driveway.
2 At this point go over the stone stile and follow the track to the shoreline. 3 Turn right and walk along the rocky beach for about 10 minutes to reach the sandy section known as Traeth Mawr. 4
SWIMMING
Our longer return walk continues along the shore to where the high cliffs dip down into a small valley. This valley is around 15 to 20 minutes walk over the rocky shoreline from the sand of Traeth Mawr. Look for the metal steps which you should use to ascend the first 15 metres or so and then walk up the valley to the high farmland above.
5 Keep going on the pathway. When you reach the small lane, turn right and it’s about a 20 minute walk to Monknash and our chosen pitstop, the warm and friendly Plough and Harrow. 6 Once suitably refreshed, its about 15 minutes down the small lane to your car.
SUNBATHING
1 DIVING
5 ROCKPOOLS and caves
Walk Duration
1hr 45mins Walk Distance
8km Walk Grade
DIFFICULT Beach Access
EASY 13
Traeth Mawr
14
1 The Pitstop Not surprisingly, given its name, this classic homely pub that dates back to the 12th century is adorned with old harrows, horseshoes and a plethora of ancient farming tools. An enormous, blackened inglenook fireplace enhances the already warm atmosphere that has been created by the landlord and staff. The low beams in the ceiling serve as a chalkboard where you will find a menu of traditional Welsh dishes and modern classics. With everything cooked on the premises using fresh local produce, Welsh cawl and faggots in gravy sit comfortably next to coriander fishcakes and Gower mussels; vegetarian Glamorgan sausages alongside goat’s cheese wrapped in Parma ham. Interesting ales are poured straight from their barrels that sit in a row behind the bar, while the wine list has a few old world classics and a keenly priced house wine by the glass.
O weld ei henw does fawr o ryfedd bod y dafarn gartrefol glasurol yma – sy’n dyddio’n ôl i’r ddeuddegfed ganrif - wedi’i haddurno â hen ogedau, pedolau a llond gwlad o gelfi ffarmio hynafol. Mae’r tafarnwr a’i staff eisoes wedi creu awyrgylch cynnes braf ac at hynny mae yma gil pentan anferthol, du gan dân y canrifoedd. Mae trawstiau isel y nenfwd yn ateb diben bwrdd du lle cewch chi’r fwydlen, yn seigiau traddodiadol Cymreig a chlasuron modern. Bwyd cartref ydi popeth, yn defnyddio nwyddau lleol ffres, a gewch chi gawl Cymreig a ffagots mewn grefi ochr yn ochr yn braf â chacennau pysgod coriander a chregyn gleision Bro Gŵyr; sosejys Morgannwg i lysfwytawyr ochr yn ochr â chaws geifr wedi’i lapio mewn ham Parma. Tywalltir gwahanol fathau o gwrw diddorol yn syth o’u casgenni sy’n eistedd mewn rhes y tu ôl i’r bar, tra mae gan y rhestr winoedd ambell i glasur yr hen fyd a gwin tŷ fesul gwydraid rhesymol ei bris. The Plough and Harrow, Monknash, Cowbridge, South Glamorgan CC71 7QQ 01656 890209 / www.ploughandharrow.org
15
Brandy, Pwlldu & Bantam One of our longest walks takes you west along the coastal path and away from the ever popular Caswell Bay on the eastern tip of the Gower peninsula. The trio of beaches that our walk embraces are all surprisingly secluded and the further you ramble, the more remote and wild they become. Try to time your arrival at the final beach, Bantam Bay, an hour or so before low tide – just as the access route is being revealed by the sea. This will allow you enough time to truly relax before the waters ebb back and you have to make your escape. The return trip leads you inland through the wonderfully wooded Bishopston Valley, along narrow country lanes and past playing fields. Make sure you stop for a pint at the rugby club if you still have the stamina.
Mae un o’n troeon hiraf yn mynd â chi tua’r gorllewin ar hyd llwybr y glannau oddi wrth draeth bytholboblogaidd Bae Caswell ar bigyn dwyreiniol Penrhyn Gŵyr. Mae’r traethau ar y daith gerdded yma yn rhyfeddol o ddiarffordd ill tri a’r pellaf y crwydrwch chi, mwyaf anghysbell a gwyllt y’u cewch chi nhw. Triwch drefnu i gyrraedd y traeth olaf, Bae Bantam, tuag awr cyn distyll y don – yn union pan fydd y môr yn cilio o’r llwybr mynediad. Rhydd hyn ddigon o amser i chi hamddena’n braf cyn tro’r llanw a chithau’n gorfod dianc rhag y dŵr. Mae’r daith yn ôl yn mynd â chi i ganol y tir drwy goed hyfryd Dyffryn Llandeilo Ferwallt, ar hyd lonydd culion cefn gwlad a heibio i gaeau chwarae. Cofiwch bicio i’r clwb rygbi am beint os oes gennych y nerth. 16
2
17
Brandy, Pwlldu & Bantam Getting There
Irish Sea HOLYHEAD
Out of Swansea, drive south on the A4067. Just after Oystermouth Castle, turn right onto the B4593. Follow signs to Caswell Bay and park in the car park.
LLANDUDNO
BARMOUTH
Irish Sea
CARPARK P’CODE
SA3 4RY
ABERYSTWYTH
OS MAP BEACH
ST. DAVID’S
SS 585,873 SS 575,870 SS 574.866
SWANSEA
★
Atlantic Ocean
CARDIFF
Bristol Channel
Mgos
Bishopston St Peter’s Well
n
to ps o ey h ll is B Va
Remains of a Chapel
Pyle
7
50
el
T
du La ne
Hareslade
1 9
Pwll
The Knapp Farm
P
Caswell
d lR
Ocean Meadows
Pwlldu Wood
sw
Hanging Cliff
Sewage Works
P
South Gower RFC
55
70 Ca
6
Herberts Lodge Farm
8
Backingstone Farm
Spring
50
fort Mid to Low Tide Route
2
66m 62m
75
5
Brandy Cove
3
Pennard Farm
68m
Caswell Bay
Pwlldu Bay
Mid to Low Tide Access Route To Bantam Bay
96m
Pwlldu head
Pwlldu Point
4
Bantam Bay
n 500 m
18
2 pwlldu
Ebb & Flow
brandy
With all three beaches it is best to time your visit between mid and low tide. Especially with the ultra secluded Bantam, where at anything nearing mid tide, you may be cut off. LOW TIDE
HIGH TIDE
brandy has lots of soft sand. pwlldu is shingle. bantam has patchy sand between rocks.
no access to brandy. pwlldu has large bank of pebbles. no access to bantam.
Walk Directions 1
Start at the main car park next to Caswell Bay. Mid to low tide you can walk onto the beach and head right (or west) past the rocky outcrop and to the far corner of the beach. To the left of the apartments you should take the steps up to join the coastal path. If the tide is too high for the beach route, take the road in the same direction and join the coastal path - look for the signpost on your left.
2 Follow the coastal path for 5 minutes until you round the back of Brandy Cove. Access to this beach is on your left.
3 To continue to Pwlldu and Bantam Bays,
3 3
5
SECLUSION
6 Follow this path alongside the river for a good 10 to 15 minutes. Then, when you reach it, cross over the footbridge and follow the bridleway (blue arrows) up the hill. When you reach a small gate, look right to see a larger gate. Go through the larger one. (Again, follow the blue arrows, not the yellow arrows.)
7 This will lead you to a small lane where you should turn left and take the footpath on your right after about 150 metres. In the next field, after only 50 metres, turn left towards the Rugby Football Club – you should see the goal posts and floodlights.
8 Carry on past the RFC, cutting straight
4 Access to Bantam Bay is via Pwlldu Bay at
9 Walk downhill for around five minutes
low tide only. Walk to the far, western side and make your way over the rocks and past Pwlldu Point. A short scramble will take you over to this secluded spot.
and when you reach the farm, take the lower pathway leading down towards the coast. This will lead to the coastal path. When you reach it, turn left and retrace your steps to the car park.
came or for a longer route, join the path leading past the cottages on the western side of Pwlldu Bay. Take the path to the left of the small river before the bridge.
SWIMMING
424
carry on along the coastal path for a further 15 minutes. Pwlldu will come into view and there is an access path to your left before you walk around to the back.
5 To return, either walk back the way you
bantam
5 33
over the lane at the end of the car park and when the footpath meets another lane, join it, turning right down the hill.
SUNBATHING
1 1 1 DIVING
422 ROCKPOOLS and caves Walk Duration
2 hours Walk Distance
9km Walk Grade
MODERATE Beach Access
MODERATE EASY DIFFICULT 19
Brandy, Pwlldu & Bantam
20
2 The Pitstop Soot-tinged walls and low-beamed ceilings help to make this friendly village pub a favourite with locals and tourists alike. Most nights you’ll find a lively crowd filling the bar, and in the winter, warming themselves by the open log fire. The pub houses the smallest brewery in Wales and its own real ales, crafted around the back by the landlord and his friend, have won awards from CAMRA. They also hold local beer events, folk dancing and are proud sponsors of the Gower Walking Festival. The pub grub is pretty good too, with interesting additions to the usual staples including sizzling skillets of cajun or peppercorn chicken, nachos with chilli con carne and black and blue burgers.
Ac iddi barwydydd ac arnynt ôl parddu a nenfydau a thrawstiau isel, mae’r dafarn bentre gyfeillgar yma’n ffefryn gan y bobol leol ac ymwelwyr fel ei gilydd. Bron bob nos gewch chi griw bywiog yn llenwi’r bar, ac yn y gaeaf yn eu twymo’u hunain o flaen y tân coed agored. Mae’r dafarn yn gartre’r bragdy lleiaf yng Nghymru ac mae ei gwahanol fathau o gwrw go iawn, a wneir yn y cefn gan y tafarnwr a’i ffrind, wedi ennill gwobrau gan CAMRA. Maen nhw hefyd yn cynnal digwyddiadau cwrw a dawnsio gwerin ac yn noddwyr balch Gŵyl Gerdded Bro Gŵyr. Mae sgram y dafarn yn bur dda hefyd ac ar ben yr hoelion wyth arferol mae yma bethau difyr fel sgiledi eiriasboeth cyw iâr cajun neu buperennau, nachos gyda chilli con carne a byrgyrs du las. The Joiners Arms, 50 Bishopston Road, Bishopston, Swansea SA3 3EJ 01792 232658 / no website
21
Fall Bay If you can drag yourself away from the world-renowned panorama of Worm’s Head and Swansea Bay, just around the corner you will find a perfect secluded beach with golden sand and a southerly aspect. Although popular with surfers at certain times of the day, it is still one of the largest and most isolated beaches in the area – so generous that at low tide you can stroll across to the neighbouring bay without leaving the powdery soft shoreline. Our walking route takes in the very best of the Gower’s views and a pitstop that gazes directly across Rhossili Bay. Look no further than the following pages for the perfect day out on this beautiful peninsula.
Os gallwch eich llusgo’ch hun i ffwrdd oddi wrth banorama byd-enwog Pen Pyrod a Bae Abertawe, yn union rownd y gornel gewch chi draeth diarffordd perffaith o dywod euraidd sy’n wynebu tua’r de. Er ei fod yn boblogaidd gan frigdonwyr ar rai oriau o’r dydd, mae’n dal i fod yn un o’r traethau mwyaf anghysbell yn y cyffiniau – ac mor fawr, pan fo’r môr ar drai gallwch fynd am dro bach braf i’r bae cyfagos heb hyd yn oed adael y draethlin feddal fel powdwr. Mae ein taith gerdded yn edrych dros olygfeydd gorau oll Penrhyn Gŵyr ac o’r pitstop cewch olwg yn syth ar draws Bae Rhosili. Does dim gofyn i chi edrych ymhellach na’r tudalennau sy’n dilyn a gewch chi ddiwrnod i’r brenin ar y penrhyn hardd hwn. 22
3
23
Fall Bay Getting There
Irish Sea HOLYHEAD
Heading southwest out of Swansea, join the A4118 and drive west. This will take you across the peninsula. At Scurlage, turn right onto the B4247 and follow all the way to Rhossili. Park in the main car park when you reach it.
LLANDUDNO
BARMOUTH
Irish Sea ABERYSTWYTH
CARPARK P’CODE
SA3 1PP
ST. DAVID’S
SWANSEA
★
Atlantic Ocean
OS MAP BEACH CARDIFF
Bristol Channel
SS 412,873
Mgos
The Beacon
n 500 m
Rhossili Bay
190m
cairn
Rhossili Bay
175 145
125
1 T
To Pitton 70
24
6
Middleton
50
5
Lookout station
30
4
3
Gower Coast National Nature Reserve
Fall Bay Tears Point
Crabart
100
7
Old Castle
fort
Low tide route to Worm’s Head (check with coastguard in Lookout station about timings)
Shipway
ay
W
Rhossili
60
Kitchen Corner 2
er
ow
eG
Th
P
★
ew
fort
Mewslade Bay Mewslade Bay Thurba
e
d
la
S
M
3 Ebb & Flow
4
Best at low tide when you can walk along the entire bay to Mewslade and back. The access path is down a small gully and will be slippery after rain. Involves a short scramble and climb down to the sand. LOW TIDE
HIGH TIDE
lots of fine sand and interesting rock formations. a long walk across the whole bay possible.
mostly inaccessible. a small area will be usable an hour or so after high tide.
Walk Directions 1
From the car park at Rhossili walk downhill past the National Trust Centre and toilets.
2 Follow the main path around to the left, or southwest along the coast, all the way to the lookout station and the headland that overlooks Worm’s Head. Here, you have an optional extra low tide walk out over the rocks to Worm’s Head itself. 3 To continue to Fall Bay, walk around the headland for a further 10 minutes and the beach will come into view. 4 Nearing the beach, take the right fork where the path splits and walk around to the back of the beach. Take the offshoot pathway that leads down the small gully to the sand. 5 To return, walk back up the gully and head inland over either of the two gates with steps into a field. In this first field walk diagonally right, through the next gate and then keep following the yellow arrows as they lead you through fields. 6 Around 200 metres after you join a track, take the path on your left to walk on a pathway between fields for about 5 minutes, after which you should turn right onto a track that will lead you to the lane that goes through Rhossili. 7 Go left when you meet the road and the car park is under 5 minutes walk.
SWIMMING
3 SECLUSION
4 SUNBATHING
1 DIVING
3 ROCKPOOLS and caves
Walk Duration
1hr Walk Distance
5km Walk Grade
EASY Beach Access
DIFFICULT 25
Fall BAy
26
3 The Pitstop Little more than a glazed extension attached to the back of the owner’s house, this small café has one of the most commanding views of the Welsh coastline you are likely to find. Settle onto one of the benches in the garden and take in the breathtaking landscape of Rhossili Beach and the very tip of the Gower peninsula – where a 100 metre high bank of rock, sand and heather slopes impressively into the Irish Sea. The café sources local ingredients for its delicious homemade food and includes extensive English breakfasts, quiches, cakes and cream teas served throughout the day.
Dydi’r caffi bach yma fawr mwy na phenty gwydr yn sownd yng nghefn tŷ’r perchennog ond mae’r olygfa, o un o uchelfannau glannau Cymru, yn un o’r mwyaf trawiadol gewch chi. Clwydwch ar un o’r meinciau yn yr ardd a morio yn nhirwedd syfrdanol Traeth Rhosili a phigyn pellaf Penrhyn Gŵyr - lle mae llechwedd 100m o uchdwr, yn greigiau, tywod a grug yn graddol ddisgyn yn drawiadol i Fôr Iwerddon. Nwyddau lleol mae’r caffi’n eu defnyddio at ei fwyd cartref blasus sy’n cynnwys brecwastau Seisnig helaeth, quiches, teisennau a the a hufen ar gael drwy’r dydd. The Bay Bistro and Coffee House, Rhossili, Gower, Swansea SA3 1PL 01792 390519 / www.thebaybistro.com
27
Skrinkle Haven
Accessed via a small sea-formed tunnel cut through the precipitous cliffs that surround neighbouring Church Doors, the wonderfully named Skrinkle Haven is a delight to behold. Upon emerging from this eerie crevice you hop down onto the soft sand that stretches out across this charming bay; the striking limestone headland and warming red sandstone creating a dramatic backdrop. Despite local chatter about private property, this little beach is owned by the Crown – as with most beaches that appear below the high tide mark. So in other words, public access and yours for the taking.
Drwy dwnnel bach y mae’r môr wedi’i dorri drwy glogwyni serthion “Pyrth yr Eglwys” cyfagos y mae mynd i Hafan Skrinkle (gwyn ei byd o’i henw) sy’n wledd i’r llygaid. Pan ddowch chi allan o’r hollten annaearol yma rhowch sbonc fach i lawr i’r tywod meddal sy’n ymestyn ar draws y bae swynol yma; a’r trwyn carreg galch trawiadol a’r tywodfaen coch cynnes yn creu cefnlen ddramatig. Er gwaethaf mân sôn lleol am eiddo preifat, mewn gwirionedd eiddo’r Goron ydi’r traeth bach yma - run fath â’r rhan fwyaf o draethau sy’n ymddangos yn is na’r marc penllanw. Felly, mewn geiriau eraill, yn eiddo cyhoeddus ac mae croeso i chi ddod yma. 28
4
29
Skrinkle Haven Getting There
Irish Sea HOLYHEAD
Drive south out of Tenby on the A4139. Drive through Penally and Lydstep. 1 kilometre after Lydstep turn left onto the B4585 then left after another kilometre towards Manorbier Camp. Continue past the military camp, down the hill, past the youth hostel and to the farthest point of the car park.
LLANDUDNO
BARMOUTH
Irish Sea ABERYSTWYTH
CARPARK P’CODE
SA70 7TX
ST. DAVID’S
SWANSEA
★
Atlantic Ocean
OS MAP BEACH CARDIFF
Bristol Channel
SS 079,973
Mgos
50
A
80m
41
The Palace
68m
39
Caravan Park
Lydstep
Wind Hill
Middle Hill
Lydstep Haven
Baldwin’s Moor 70 61m
B 4585
65
to Manorbier
Lydstep House
50
fort
Youth Hostel
1
P
50
2 4
75m
3
Caverns
Cave Beach
Church Doors
Caves
Whitesheet Rock
Skrinkle Haven
Manorbier Camp
70
n
60m
fort
Old Castle Head 30
500 m M.O.D. DANGER AREA
Lydstep Point
4 Ebb & Flow
5
Be absolutely sure to keep an eye on the tide here. Your access to the tunnel is cut off quickly and if the waves are up, making the swim around the front of the cliff to Church Doors tricky, you’ll be stuck. Enjoy all the soft sand while it lets you. LOW TIDE
HIGH TIDE
the tide can go out far enough to walk around the headland and avoid the tunnel. lots of sand.
absolutely no access. church doors can be accessed but very rocky.
Walk Directions 1
SWIMMING
4 SECLUSION
4
From your car, find the path that will lead you around the back of Church Doors.
2 Take the steps down to the beach.
SUNBATHING
3 Facing the sea, look right and you will see the small crevice through to Skrinkle Haven. 4 Climb through taking care not to slip on the wet rocks.
3 DIVING
5 ROCKPOOLS and caves
Walk Duration
15 mins Walk Distance
1km Walk Grade
EASY Beach Access
MODERATE
31
Skrinkle Haven
32
4 The Pitstop The latest owners of the beautifully renovated Parsonage Farm Inn have completely turned around this once rundown village pub. Previously condemned by health and safety, its log fires and real ales now welcome many a contented customer, who happily mingle with the local farmers dropping off fresh produce at the kitchen door. With their family and friends still making a living out on the open seas and seven years’ experience running a fish restaurant nearby, the menu is awash with seafood dishes, including tempura sprats, 8oz Irish king prawns and homemade paella. Other specials include stuffed fillet of lamb and wild field mushrooms with three cheese pasta. Don’t miss this one if you have a good appetite, the portions are as generous as anyone could wish for.
Tafarn bentre wedi mynd rhwng y cŵn a’r brain oedd hon gynt ond mae’r perchnogion newydd wedi ei hailwampio’n hyfryd ac wedi ei throi yn ei charn. Fe’i condemniwyd ynghynt gan yr awdurdodau iechyd a diogelwch ond bellach mae ei thanau coed a’i dewis o gwrw go iawn yn croesawu aml i gwsmer bodlon, sy’n dal pen rheswm yn hapus â’r ffermwyr lleol sy’n danfon nwyddau ffres at ddrws y gegin. Mae gan y tafarnwyr brofiad saith mlynedd o redeg tŷ bwyta pysgod gerllaw a’u teulu a’u ffrindiau’n dal i ennill eu tamaid ar y môr mawr felly mae’r fwydlen yn heigio o brydau bwyd môr, gan gynnwys corbenwaig tempwra, cimychiaid Norwy wyth owns a paella cartref. Ymhlith y bwydydd arbennig eraill mae ffiled cig oen wedi’i stwffio a madarch gwyllt y maes gyda pasta tri chaws. Mae’r llecyn yma’n rhy dda i’w golli os ydych chi’n fwytwr da, a’r dognau’n ddigon hael i fodloni’r claddwr mwyaf. The Parsonage Farm Inn, St Florence, Tenby, Pembrokeshire SA70 8LR 01834 871436 / www.parsonagefarminn.co.uk
33
Traeth yr Ora Just near an ancient windmill, a small spring releases its water onto the grassy hillside of Parys Mountain. Being on Anglesey, the water hasn’t far to travel to reach the sea and running into other brooks and streams along the way, at some point it becomes the Afon Goch. This small river, not much bigger than a stream where it enters its estuary, has made a great impression on the coastline, with soft golden sand reaching about two kilometres inland. Over the years the meandering deposits of the river, assisted by the tide, have created a wonderful beach called Traeth yr Ora, just south of the estuary mouth. Enjoy the striking views here from sea level or from our elevated walk that takes in some historical monuments, Dulas Island and the very best of the surrounding countryside.
Yn union yn ymyl hen felin wynt, mae ffynnon fach yn pistyllio’i dŵr ar lechwedd welltog Mynydd Parys. Gan ei fod ar Ynys Môn, does gan y dŵr fawr o ffordd cyn cyrraedd y môr a chan redeg i nentydd a ffrydiau eraill ar ei ffordd, ar ryw fan mae’n dod yn Afon Goch. Mae’r afon fach yma, fawr mwy na nant lle’r â i’w haber, wedi gwneud argraff fawr ar y forlin, a thywod euraidd meddal yn cyrraedd tua dau gilomedr tua’r tir. Dros y blynyddoedd mae gwaddol yr afon, ar grwydr a chyda chymorth y llanw, wedi creu traeth bendigedig o’r enw Traeth yr Ora, yn union i’r de o geg yr aber. O lan y môr welwch chi olygfeydd trawiadol neu, o’n taith uchel sy’n mynd heibio i henebion, Ynys Dulas a’r gorau oll o’r cefn gwlad yn y cyffiniau. 236
35
237
Traeth yr Ora n 500 m
Ynys Dulas
DULAS
tower
Porto Bello
Dulas Bay
D
E C N A T IS
E ER H
T NO
TO
A SC
LE
Garnog
Ultra secret beach here access is via a long swim of just under 2km from the rocks to north of traeth yr ora beware of rip tides and strong currents
Traeth yr Ora Cochwillan 3
Traeth Dulas
4
2
Traeth Lligwy 5
Trwyn Porth-y-mor
6
55
86m
75
2
5
P
Bodafon Isaf
monument
1
8
7
Tyddyn Isaf
9
to Benllech
238
40
0
5
5
6
A
Pentre Eirianell
Brynrefail
35 Getting There Driving north on the A5025 out of Benllech, after about 6 kilometres and just after the small village of Brynrefail, park in the car park next to The Pilot Boat Inn. You should go in for a drink or a snack before or after your visit to the beach by way of payment for the parking. CARPARK P’CODE
OS MAP BEACH
LL70 9EX
SH 489,885
Irish Sea
★ HOLYHEAD
LLANDUDNO
BARMOUTH
Irish Sea ABERYSTWYTH
ST. DAVID’S
Walk Duration
Walk Distance
Walk Grade
Beach Access
1hr 45mins
7.5km
moderate
easy
SWANSEA
Atlantic Ocean
CARDIFF
Bristol Channel
Walk Directions 1
Starting in the car park of the Pilot Boat Inn, take the pathway towards the coast that leads into the field just by the pub entrance.
2 After the second kissing gate when you reach the plateau with the small lake (unless its a very
dry summer) bear slightly left and carry on down the hill. Keep going through the gates until you reach a small lane where you should go left.
3 After 100 metres join the track on the right, follow around the sharp bend to the left and the
beach is another 200 metres. Take the beach acces path almost straight ahead of you down onto the sand. Just before the beach access path, you can keep walking left to enjoy a view from the field overlooking the estuary.
4 To continue the walk, go back the way you came and return to the small lane. 5 Walk past the pathway where you joined the lane earlier and after the sharp bend climb over
the stile into the field.
6 Walk towards the farm house, past it, then bear slightly right towards the high point of the field.
Look ahead of you for the stile and go over into the next field.
7 From here the path is more defined. Walk alongside the pond which will be on your right and
over a tall stile. Go across the field, over the wall, and right onto the road for 50 metres. Then join another path on the right.
8 Walk past the caravan park, join its entrance driveway briefly but look for the stile
ahead of you where the drive bends downhill.
9 Over this stile look for the monument on the hill nearby and walk in that direction
to another tall stile. Go over this stile and bear left past the monument to the A5025. Turn right and the pub car park is 100 metres further on.
Mgos 239
Traeth yr Ora 5 SWIMMING
3 SECLUSION
5 SUNBATHING
Ebb & Flow A large dune banks up behind the beach where you will have to wait if you arrive at high tide. Low tide reveals huge amounts of sand - walk either way on a good low tide to access estuaries on each side.
242
1 DIVING
2 ROCKPOOLS and caves
LOW TIDE
HIGH TIDE
lots of soft sand and access north to dulas estuary or south to traeth lligwy is possible at beach level.
no access to beach but a lovely view from nearby field of dulas estuary. see map and directions.
35 The Pitstop This cavernous pub brimming with nooks and crannies is right on the shore of Red Wharf Bay. Its simple chalked up menu is a proper reflection of the talented chef’s fine-dining background and the wonderful seasonal produce available on Anglesey. Downstairs, a noisy lunch crowd throngs the tables and creates a bustling setting that is managed well by the efficient staff. In the evenings, the dining room upstairs opens its doors and the starched tablecloths and napkins come out for those after a more formal affair. A skilled team in the kitchen sends out such delights as Welsh ham shank with parsley cream, minted Welsh lamb burger or the catch of the day. Wherever you sit, make sure you’re near a window as the view across the bay in the afternoon sun is one to savour.
Mae’r dafarn yma, sydd fel ogof a’i llond o dyllau a chorneli, yn union ar lan Traeth Coch. Mae ei bwydlen seml, mewn sialc, yn ddrych o gefndir ciniawa bras y pen-cogydd a’r cynnyrch tymhorol gwych sydd i’w gael ar Ynys Môn. I lawr grisiau mae tyrfa amser cinio swnllyd yn fflyd o gwmpas y byrddau ond mae’r staff effeithlon yn dod i ben yn iawn. Fin nos, mae’r ystafell fwyta i fyny’r grisiau yn agor ei drysau a daw’r llieiniau bwrdd a’r napcynau startsh i’r fei i’r rheini sydd am rywbeth mwy ffurfiol. Mae tîm deheuig yn y gegin yn arlwyo danteithion fel siancen ham Gymreig gyda hufen persli, byrgyr oen Cymreig neu ddalfa’r diwrnod. Lle bynnag yr eisteddwch chi, cofiwch ymorol eich bod yn ymyl ffenestr gan fod yr olygfa ar draws y bae yn haul y prynhawn yn ddigon o ryfeddod. Ship Inn, Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey LL75 8RJ 01248 852568 / www.shipinnredwharfbay.co.uk
243
Index
The Bay Bistro and Coffee House, Rhossili, Gower, Swansea SA3 1PL 01792 390519 / www.thebaybistro.com
252
124 112 60 16 40 162 40 16 200 22 78 212 48 180 66 138 188 168 150 150 212 206 212 156 228 144 244 84 92 72 104 34 16 28 194 98 10 118 174 236 54 130
T H E
Aber Castell Aber Rhigian Albion Sands Bantam Cove Barafundle Bay Borth Wen Box Beach Brandy Bay Cemlyn Bay Fall Bay Gwadn Hell’s Mouth (N’most Beaches) Lindsway Bay Llanddwyn Island Musselwick Sands Porth Ceiriad Porth Cwyfan Porth Dinllaen Porth Ferin Porth Iago Porth Llanlleiana (N’most Beaches) Porth Padrig Porth Wen (N’most Beaches) Porth Widlin Porth y Corwgl Porth Ysgo Porth Dyniewaid Porthlysgi Porthmelgan Porthmynawyd Porthsychan Presipe Pwlldu Bay Skrinkle Haven Traeth Llydan Traeth Llyfn Traeth Mawr Traeth Morfa Traeth yr Eifl Traeth yr Ora Watwick Bay Whitesands Bay
P I T S T O P S
THE BEACHES
27
The Bridge Inn, Telford Road, Menai Bridge, Anglesey LL59 5DT 01248 716888 / www.thebridgeinnanglesey.co.uk
187
The Brook Inn, St Ishmael’s, Haverfordwest SA62 3TE 01646 636277 / www.the-brook-inn.co.uk
53
The Cambrian Inn, 6 Main Street, Solva, Pembrokeshire SA62 6UU 01437 721210 / www.thecambrianinn.co.uk
83
Castell Deudraeth, Portmeirion, Gwynedd LL48 6ER 01766 772400 / www.portmeirion-village.com
135
The Castle Inn, Manorbier, Tenby, Dyfed SA70 7TE 01834 871268 / no website
39
The Clockhouse, Marloes, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 3AZ 01646 636527 / www.clockhousemarloes.co.uk
71
The Crown Inn, Llwyndafydd, Ceredigion SA44 6BU 01545 560396 / www.the-crown-inn.moonfruit.com
129
Cwtch, 22 High Street, St David’s, Pembrokeshire SA62 6SD 01437 720491 / www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk
97
The Dining Room, Goslings, High Street, Abersoch, Gwynedd LL53 7DY 01758 740709 / www.thediningroomabersoch.co.uk
155
The Farmers Arms, 14-16 Goat Street, St David’s, Pembs SA62 6RF 01437 721666 / www.farmersstdavids.co.uk
89
The Gadlys Country House Hotel, Cemaes Bay, Anglesey LL67 041 01407 710227 / www.gadlys.co.uk
211
The Griffin Inn, Dale, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 3RB 01646 636227 / www.griffininndale.co.uk
59
The Jam Factory, Cemlyn, Cemaes Bay, Anglesey LL67 0EA 01407 711588 / www.jams.co.uk
205
The Joiners Arms, 50 Bishopston Road, Bishopston, Swansea SA3 3EJ 01792 232658 / no website
21
Leafy Lane Tea Room, Bull Bay, Amlwch, Anglesey LL68 9SG 01407 831902 / www.leafylaneguesthouse.co.uk
235
Links Golf Club Restaurant, Newport, Pembs SA42 0NR 01239 820244 / www.newportlinks.co.uk
109
The Lion Hotel, Tudweiliog, Pwllheli, Gwynedd LL53 8ND 01758 659724 / www.lionhoteltudweiliog.co.uk
161
The Lobster Pot Inn, Marloes, Pembrokeshire SA62 3AZ 01646 636233 / www.lobsterpotmarloes.co.uk
65
Llys Llewelyn Tearooms, Aberffraw, Anglesey LL63 5AQ 01407 840847 / www.llysllewelyn-tearooms.com
193
The Old Pharmacy, 5 Main Street, Solva, Pembrokeshire SA62 6UU 01437 720005 / www.theoldpharmacy.co.uk
77
The Old Sailor’s, Pwllgwaelod, Dinas Cross, Newport SA42 0SE 01348 811491 / no website
117
The Parsonage Farm Inn, St Florence, Tenby, Pembrokeshire SA70 8LR 01834 871436 / www.parsonagefarminn.co.uk
33
The Pentre Arms, Llangrannog, Ceredigion SA44 6SP 01239 654345 / www.pentrearms.co.uk
123
The Plow and Harrow, Monknash, South Glamorgan CC71 7QQ 01656 890209 / www.ploughandharrow.org
15
Porth Tocyn Hotel, Bwlch Tocyn, Abersoch, Pwllheli LL53 7BU 01758 713303 / www.porthtocynhotel.co.uk
143
Ship Inn, Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey LL75 8RJ 01248 852568 / www.shipinnredwharfbay.co.uk
243
The Sloop Inn, Llanrhian Road, Porthgain, Pembrokeshire SA62 5BN 01348 831449 / www.sloop.co.uk
103
The Stackpole Inn, Jason’s Corner, Stackpole, Pembs SA71 5DF 01646 672324 / www.stackpoleinn.co.uk
45
The Stag, Cemaes Bay, Gwynedd LL67 0EW 01407 711018 / no website
224
The Toad, West Promenade, Colwyn Bay, Conwy LL28 4BU 01492 532726 / www.thetoad-pub.co.uk
249
The White Eagle, Rhoscolyn, Angelsey LL65 2NJ 01407 860267 / www.white-eagle.co.uk
199
Ty Coch Inn, Porthdinllaen, Morfa Nefyn, Gwynedd LL53 6DB 01758 720498 / www.tycoch.co.uk
173
Y Beuno Hotel & Restaurant, Clynnogfawr, Gwynedd LL54 5PB 01286 660785 / www.ybeuno.com
179
Y Bryncynan Inn, Morfa Nefyn, Pwllheli LL53 6AA 01758 720879 / www.bryncynan.com
167
Y Gegin Fawr, Aberdaron, Gwynedd LL53 8BE 01758 760359 / no website
149
Pro - Photographers
Several pro-photographers were kind enough to donate their work to this book. Below are the credits for the photographers and a brief synopsis of their what they do. They all have excellent websites where you can see more of their photography. They are well worth a visit.
David Evans www.pemcoastphotos.com David has produced an incredible collection of hundreds of photographs documenting the entire Pembrokeshire coastline. His work is on the following pages 29, 31, 32, 35, 37, 38, 49, 52, 55, 61, 63, 64, 67,69, 70, 73, 76, 81, 85, 87, 88, 93, 96, 101, 102, 105, 108,110, 113, 116, 119, 122, 125, 128
Nick Davison www.gowerphotography.co.uk Nick is a talented professional based on the Gower peninsula. He runs courses and workshops where he allows amateur photographers to concentrate on honing their skills with his tutelage and experience. His work is on the following pages 23, 26, 27
Shaun Fitzpatrick www.capture-wales.com Shaun is a freelance professional. He has a large body of work on his website that covers a huge area of Wales. We have used some of his work near his home on the Lleyn peninsula. His work is on the following pages 133, 169, 171, 173
Paul Mattock www.pmphotography.co.uk Working as a professional photographer for many years now, Paul has built up a huge catalogue of images. Since moving to Anglesey about twenty years ago, he has been producing calendars each year that show the famous island at its best. His work is on the following pages 181, 184, 186
Janet Baxter www.janetbaxterphotography.co.uk Janet has compiled an excellent collection of her own images on her website. There are some magnificent aerial photos and a large portfolio of stunning wildlife shots. Her work is on the following pages 46, 89, 254
Other Photo Credits
Mike Stokes - 10, 14 / Martin Hartland - 131 / Johanna Smith - 155 253
Best Beaches for...
Seclusion
254
Sunbathing
Traeth Mawr
page
10
Fall Bay
page
22
Presipe
page
34
Barafundle Bay
page
40
Musselwick Sands
page
66
Musselwick Sands
page
66
Porthsychan
page
104
Porth Ceiriad
page
138
Porth Widlin
page
156
Porth Iago
page
150
Traeth yr Eifl
page
174
Porth Dinllaen
page
168
Northernmost Beaches
page
212
Llanddwyn Island
page
180
Porth y Corwgl
page
228
Traeth yr Ora
page
236
Swimming
Sunsets
Porthmynawyd
page
72
Albion Sands
page
60
Porthsychan
page 104
Porthmelgan
page
92
Borth Wen
page
162
Porth Widlin
page
156
Llanddwyn Island
page
180
Borth Wen
page
162
Porth Padrig
page
206
Traeth yr Eifl
page
174
Porth Wen
page
212
Llanddwyn Island
page
180
Traeth yr Ora
page
236
Porth Llanlleiana
page
212
Long Walks Brandy, Pwlldu, Bantam page
16
Barafundle & Box
page
40
Watwick Bay
page 54
Porthmelgan
page
92
Traeth Llyfn
page
98
Aber Rhigian
page
112
Borth Wen
page
162
Llanddwyn Island
page
180
Northernmost Beaches
page
212
Porth y Corwgl
page
228
Traeth yr Ora
page
236
Brandy Bay
page
16
Barafundle Bay
page
40
Porthmynawyd
page
72
Gwadn
page
78
Porth Dinllaen
page
168
Porth Cwyfan
page
188
Porth Padrig
page
206
Families
255
About The Author Rob has always had a love of beaches and swimming which stems from long summer holidays spent in Southwest England as a child. In his late teens, he moved to France to follow his passion for cooking. Working his way up from plongeur to chef at a variety of restaurants, Rob travelled from Provence to Paris before returning to the UK to establish The Shoreditch Map. This monthly listings magazine, for which he wrote about venues and events across the East London neighbourhood, ran for over 80 issues before he passed it on as a successful enterprise. These days, Rob lives in London but escapes to the country in his self-converted campervan at every opportunity. During the research for this book, he visited almost every accessible part of Wales’ coastline over a four month period. Secret Beaches: Wales is the third book in the Secret Beaches series that Rob publishes himself.
Acknowledgements Rob would like to say a huge thank you to Becky Fountain, Anna Gruffydd, C. A. Halpin, Max Letvenenko, Artem Barkhin and James Williams for their faultless work on the production of this book. Thanks also go to the following for their help, support, advice, encouragement, hospitality, laughter and friendship: the Webster family; Eleri, Geraint and Huw; David, Nick, Shaun, Paul and Kris; Sara Whines, Andy Dawes and Steve Webb; and of course friends and family. And finally, another huge thank you to all in Wales who assisted Rob with his research and made him feel so welcome. You know who you are.
Give Your Support By joining or donating to any of the following charities and organisations, you will be helping to ensure that the beauty and magnificence of the Welsh coastline and other UK areas will be maintained for generations to come. Marine Conservation Society (01989 566017; www.mcsuk.org) National Trust (0844 800 1895; www.nationaltrust.org.uk) RSPB (01767 693680; www.rspb.org.uk) Surfers Against Sewage (01872 553001; www.sas.org.uk) The Wildlife Trusts (01636 677711; www.wildlifetrusts.org) Tidy Tourist (www.tidytourist.com) 256
Also available
from the Secret Beaches series...
Southwest
Ibiza
To order your copy go to...
www.secretbeaches.co.uk
Coming soon... Secret
beaches La France
Shhh! Don’t tell the French Rob Smith
Hebrides
La France
Thailand
With Secret Beaches: Wales you will discover a genuinely secluded side to the Welsh coastline. Using detailed maps and step-by-step directions, we guide you on walks ranging from ten minutes to over an hour. With further information such as the best places to eat, we also provide you with the local knowledge you need to enjoy a full day out. This book is a must-have for those seeking to experience Wales at its very best. The Secret Beaches travel guides are the first to use QR-code technology. You can simply download all the information you require to your smartphone - making your exploring effortless, without the need to carry the extra weight of a guidebook.
Rhydd Secret Beaches: Wales fodd i chi ddarganfod gwedd wirioneddol ddiarffordd ar lannau Cymru. Gan ddefnyddio mapiau manwl a chyfarwyddiadau o gam i gam byddwn yn eich arwain chi ar deithiau sy’n amrywio o ddeng munud i dros awr. At hynny mae yma wybodaeth am y llefydd gorau i fwyta felly gewch chi’r holl wybodaeth leol sydd eisiau arnoch i gael diwrnod i’r brenin. Mae’r llyfr yma’n anhepgor i’r rheini sydd am gael blas ar Gymru ar ei gorau oll. Y llyfrau teithio Secret Beaches ydi’r cyntaf i ddefnyddio technoleg cod QR. Does rhaid i chi ond llwytho i lawr yr holl wybodaeth sydd arnoch eisiau i’ch ffôn clyfar – sy’n gwneud chwilota’n brafiach o lawer, heb fod gofyn cario pwysau arweinlyfr yn ychwaneg.
‘Wales is blessed with a coastline of stunning beauty that sets it apart from other destinations. This book, with its striking images and well researched maps, features some of our very best but less well known beaches. I would recommend it to all who wish to discover these hidden coastal gems for themselves. They will not be disappointed with what they find.’ ‘Bendithiwyd Cymru â glannau syfrdanol o hardd a’i rhydd ar wahân i gyrchfannau eraill. Mae’r llyfr yma, a’i ddelweddau trawiadol a’i fapiau trylwyr, yn cynnwys rhai o’n traethau gorau oll ond llai adnabyddus. Byddwn yn ei argymell I pawb I ddarganfod y gemau hyn ar y glannau drostyn nhw’u hunain. Chân nhw mo’u siomi yn yr hyn a gânt.’ Steve Webb, Director of Visit Wales
Published by: one more grain of sand
£ 14.95
Copyright © 2012 One More Grain Of Sand www.secretbeaches.co.uk