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The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 15
The Indian Textile Journal April 2016 Vol. CXXVI No. 7 &(/(%5$7,1*
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Editor’s Desk
EDITOR & ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER S JOSEPH* Email: Joseph@ASAPPinfoGOLBAL.com
SR. SUB-EDITOR KARTHIK MUTHUVEERAN Email: Karthik@ASAPPinfoGOLBAL.com
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Travails of Cotton
H
igh rates of pest infection, dry weather, and a drop in planted area have hit India’s cotton production hopes. India’s 2015-16 cotton output is seen at 27.8 million bales, which is down from an early forecast of 28 m bales, and compares to 29.6 million bales in the previous season. Yields are down in Punjab and Haryana due to a high incidence of sucking pest (white fly) and pink bollworm in Gujarat. Production in Gujarat is also seen down due to heavy rains during planting, followed by a long dry spell during the key boll-formation stage. Production in Karnataka has declined due to a lower planted acreage. The US Department of Agriculture pegged Indian cotton exports in 2015-16 at 5.2 million bales, 6,00,000 bales below the USDA’s official estimate. Exports at the downgraded level would still represent an improvement on last season’s 4.2 million bales in shipments, a six year low. Even with a weaker Indian rupee, due to anticipated reductions in buying by neighbouring markets, exports are expected to be lower than the current official forecast, says the USDA. Exports to Bangladesh market may see a drop in the coming months as Bangladesh mills face liquidity issue. Besides, Pakistan has reached the end of its ‘limited buying capacity’ after covering its immediate shortfall. Even with the lower crop, farmers are holding onto stockpiles, in wait for higher prices. The Cotton Corporation of India reported nationwide cotton arrivals at just 11.24 million bales in 2015-16, the slowest rate for three years, and 30 per cent behind last year’s pace.
(Feedback welcome at mail id: Joseph@ASAPPinfoGOLBAL.com) Printed and published by Tarun Pal for IPFonline Ltd. IPFonline Limited reserves the right to use the information published herein in any manner whatsoever. While every effort has been made to check the accuracy of information published in this edition, neither IPFonline Limited nor any of its employees accept responsibility for any errors or accuracy of claims made by product manufacturers. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. *Responsible for selection of news under the PRB Act. While all efforts are made to ensure that the information published is correct, The Indian Textile Journal holds no responsibility for any unlikely errors that might have occurred. IPFonline Limited reserves the right to use the information published herein in any manner whatsoever. While every effort has been made to check the accuracy of information published in this edition, neither IPFonline Limited nor any of its employees accept responsibility for any errors or accuracy of claims made by product manufacturers. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. The Indian Textile Journal is registered with the Registrar of the Newspapers for India under No R N 1830/57 Copyright (c) 2014, IPFonline Limited.
16 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
S Joseph Editor & Associate Publisher
Contents
LOOKING AHEAD Positive signs limited .............................................................. 68 Cotton to remain stable, MMF looks at a lacklustre year, and export to stay subdued: An Ind-Ra Report reveals some of the grey areas, possibilities and challenges facing the Indian textile industry in the FY 2016-17.
SPECIAL FOCUS: TECHNOTEX 20% growth forecast for technical textiles in India ............................................................................................ 78 While the global market size of the TT sector was estimated to be $104,000 million in 2010, this sector is still in nascent stages in India.
TRAILBLAZER T T Ltd: From innerwear to garments, a big leap ... 86
REGULARS
COVER STORY
Digital printing: Set to soar ...........................30 Digital printing has made rapid strides since its entry early 2000, and in the last few years, most of the providers of this rapidly-evolving technology are eyeing India, which has shown double-digit growth, recount S Joseph and Karthik M.
BUDGET 2016-17 A bag of mixed fortunes ........................................................ 58 The overall proposed structure to revive rural consumption and rural development in the Budget is likely to give an indirect impetus to the textile industry.
Mapping future success for India’s spinners ............................................. 89 Spirit of innovation links Welspun & Saurer ............................................. 91 erlikon performs well in difocult market environment ........................ 93 A grand fete for Rieter’s saga of success in India ...................................... 99 Spin Offs ........................................................................................................ 100 Innovative fabrics weave wonders at Suditi Industries ........................ 102 Improving the quality of warp beams ..................................................... 105 W&K Criss Cross........................................................................................... 106 Dornier weaves its way to tap scope in composites............................... 108 AUTEFA’s customised concepts in needlepunch....................................... 110 ANDRITZ launching latest innovations at IDEA16 .................................. 112 Gurgaon: The next apparel hub?............................................................... 116 G-Pockets ....................................................................................................... 117 Archroma & DKTE sign education partnership ....................................... 118 D&P Shades................................................................................................... 119 Newsline ......................................................................................................... 18 Newsmakers ................................................................................................... 28 Event Report ................................................................................................... 74 Trade Talk ..................................................................................................... 108 Event Calendar ............................................................................................. 124 Ad Index ........................................................................................................ 126
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 17
NEWSLINE
Cotton under white category: Environ clearance
M
ore than 30 industries that have zero-pollution load have been exempted from taking environmental clearance even as the Centre released a new four-colour classification scheme for industries based on their pollution potential. Under the new categorisation system, industries which pollute the most have been put in the red category while the moderately polluting units are classified orange. Industries that have a significantly low pollution load have been placed in the green category while those that operate without causing any pollution have been categorised as white. Terming it a “landmark” decision which gives a fair picture of the industries, Environment Minister Prakash Javadekar said the new system of re-categorisation is based on an elaborate scientific exercise. The existing system was creating problems because it did not reflect the actual pollution caused by the various units. The Environment Ministry said that 60 industries, including sugar, thermal power plants, paints and others, which have a pollution index score of 60 and above, will be in the red category while 83 industries like coal washeries
and automobile servicing, which have scores ranging between 41 and 59 will be in the orange category. Similarly, industries like aluminium utensil manufacturing and dal and flour mills, which have a pollution index score of between 21 and 40, have been kept in the green category. A further 36 industries like air coolers and cotton and woollen hosiery, which have a pollution index score of up to 20, have been kept in the white category. “The new category of white industries, which are practically non-polluting, will not require Environmental Clearance (EC) and Consent. That will help them get funds from lending institutions. The re-categorisation exercise was carried out over the last one year. This is a landmark decision to give a fair picture of the industries. “Re-categorisation of industries based on their pollution load is a scientific exercise. The old system of categorisation was creating problems for many industries and was not reflecting the level of pollution caused by these. The new categories will remove this lacuna,” Javadekar said.
Software boost for ATUFS
A
n industry-friendly software i-ATUFS to be put in use for the Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme has been is welcomed by the Southern India Mill’s Association (SIMA). The association chairman M Senthil Kumar said that the software will bring in transparency and tracking facility and might be a complete solution for the problems faced by the Ministry, beneficiaries and the lending agencies in the scheme. The Central Government had notified the ATUFS
18 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
in January this year and issued a resolution for the scheme on February 29. It has also considered the demand for allocation of UIDs since September 2014 for all the eligible applicants under the RR-TUFS. The ATUFS will extend 10 per cent capital subsidy to all weaving and processing machines subject to a maximum of Rs 20 crore and a 15 per cent capital subsidy to a maximum of Rs 30 crore to garmenting, technical textiles, and composite units with garmenting or technical textile facilities.
NEWSLINE
India to produce less cotton this year
By Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
I
ndia is expected to produce less cotton this season ending in September, 2016. This year, India will produce about 3 million bales less than last year. Globally, commodity market is not doing well, with cotton being no exception. In the case of oil, more supply and weak demand is causing global concerns. The demand situation is similar for cotton with not much buying by China, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading importer. Additionally, cheap oil price impacts polyester raw material costs that have direct influence on the consumption of cotton by spinning mills. Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India presented its latest cotton production number for this season (October 2015-September 2016), that shows India will produce 35.3 million bales (170 kg each) this year. This estimate is 3 million bales less than last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production estimate of 38.3 million bales. A striking point is that, this season India has an opening stock of 7.36 million bales as against 5.39 million bales in the last season that began in October of 2014. This year, as the mill consumption is expected to remain at the same level, less production this year will somewhat offset the excess opening stock. Deficit rainfall in the Kharif season, which is the main cotton growing season stretching between June and September in India, has resulted in less cotton arrivals in the new season. While it is too early to predict, cotton production in the next season (October 2016 to September 2017) may see an uptick and could reach about 38 million bales. The market will also see an uptick in the next season with price expected to be about Rs 34,000 to 35,000 per candy of 356 kg. Price of Sankar-6 cotton ranges between Rs 32,500 and Rs 33,500 per candy of 356 kg. The decrease in production in India might stabilise the Indian market along with uptick in buying from Asian countries such as Pakistan, Bangladesh and Vietnam, stated the cotton source, optimistically. 20 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
High Plains of Texas wooing entrepreneurs
By Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
H
igh Plains of Texas is known globally for its cotton industry. Efforts are underway here to grow new industries and develop entrepreneurs. A group of likeminded people with interest in entrepreneurialism and developing businesses in Lubbock, Texas is organising the weekly 1 Million Cups Lubbock programme to kickstart start-ups and businesses in the High Plains. 1 Million Cups is a US nationwide educational programme for prospective and budding business people developed by Kansasbased Kauffman Foundation. On March 2, 2016, Kelly Martin, a licensed professional counsellor briefed the audience about how she created The Playroom Lubbock, a play therapy-based counseling service offered to needy children and adolescents. Apart from going over the business plan that has enabled her to have a business with 20 clients in eight months or so, a valuable marketing tip Kelly Martin gave may be of immense help to budding business people. A major hurdles that deters young people in venturing into being an entrepreneur is how to go about marketing the products and services. In a question by this scribe, Martin provided her own example of how her company started promoting about the services The Playroom Lubbock will provide even before the company actually became fully operational with a brick and mortar structure. Apart from flyers and advertisements, it is the face to face briefing and promotional efforts well in advance to prospective buyers before the products are out there to be sold are some sage advice in growing a business. Planned and well thought out marketing even before a company begins its operation to provide goods and service to customers will be of help to budding entrepreneurs and small business sector.
NEWSLINE
Changes in SSM top management
T
as CEO will be the actual Head he Swiss-based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, Horgen is the of R+D and MD of SSM GIUDICI, Dr. Davide Maccabruni. one brand and trend-setter that drives Dr Maccabruni has been with the global market in winding SSM for the last 10 years and has technologies. It is the leading strongly contributed to the manufacturer of winding and texturing development of the company machines as well as sewing thread finish over the last years. With his winders. SSM is the inventor of todays’ move to the top of SSM, we commonly used electronic yarn guide ensure continuity in the system. Apart from its Headquarter in successful management of this Switzerland, SSM operates two leading manufacturer of textile subsidiaries, one in Northern Italy and machinery in Switzerland. one Southern China. Ernesto Maurer (right) shaking hands with his new CEO On April 1, 2016 the top management For further information: Dr. Davide Maccabruni of SSM will experience some changes. www.ssm.ch or contact: The actual CEO, Ernesto Maurer, is SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland stepping down from his operative business functions and Phone: +41 44 718 33 11, takes on the duties of the Chairman of SSM. His successor Email: info@ssm.ch
Foreign orders lift Italian machinery industry fortunes
A
growing orders index for Italian machinery companies in foreign markets, while on the domestic front the positive orders trend is hit by a setback over the past six months. Said Raffaella Carabelli, President of ACIMIT: “2015 has closed well overall in terms of orders, with a growing sense of confidence for 2016.” The orders index for textile machinery grew during the fourth quarter of 2015, mainly due to a boost in exports to foreign markets. Based on the survey conducted by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, during October-December 2015 the order intake for machinery manufacturers increased by 2 per cent compared to the same period of the previous year. The value of the index for October-December 2015 stood at 89.1 points (2010 basis = 100). However, growth was observed in foreign markets only, where the index registered an absolute value of 99.3 points (+3 per cent). In Italy, the index had an absolute value of just 46.5 points, an 11 per cent drop over the same quarter for 2014, bucking the trend of the previous two quarters. ACIMIT President Raffaella Carabelli commented the index data as follows: “I believe it’s important to have closed out 2015 with an overall increase in the order intake. This is a positive result that may be further strengthened over the first half of 2016 if the numerous contacts confirmed at ITMA 2015 materialise. As for the domestic market,” continues Carabelli, “we weren’t expecting this sort of setback after two positive quarters. However, the year-end trade fair has confirmed the many signs of recovery, even for Italy, which now need to be verified in early 2016.”
22 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY THE INDEX OF ORDERS AT CONSTANT VALUE (BASIS 2010=100)
Source: ACIMIT
Meanwhile, Italian export figures, updated to the first ten months of 2015, confirm the current positive trend under in orders. “We witnessed a recovery in the Chinese market for the second half of 2015,” states ACIMIT’s president, “and generally speaking, the Asian markets account for growth in our sales (India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Vietnam).” In 2016, with the support of the Ministry of Economic Development and Italian Trade Agency, ACIMIT aims to further push its internationalisation efforts. Around 20 countries/markets will be touched by promotional initiatives favouring the penetration of Italy’s textile machinery sector. Among these are projects in sub-Saharan Africa and Iran, areas which, as ACIMIT points out, Italian businesses are approaching for the first time or after years of partial closure.
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NEWSLINE
Disposable medical supplies’ demand to go up
D
emand for disposable medical supplies in the US is forecast to expand 4.2 percent annually to $54.1 billion in 2020. A rise in patient activity caused by aging population patterns, an increasing incidence of medical conditions, and the extension of health insurance coverage by the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act will promote gains. An elevated focus on infection prevention throughout the healthcare community will also boost demand. These and other trends are presented in Disposable Medical Supplies, a new study from Freedonia Group. Drug delivery and related products will remain the largest and fastest expanding group of disposable medical supplies based on growth in the number of patients who need surgery or long-term therapy. Total demand posted by this product group is forecast to rise 4.9 per cent annually through 2020. Analyst Bill Martineau notes that, “Safetyenhanced devices for the minimally invasive delivery of parenteral medicines, inhalation therapies, and IV
DISPOSABLE MEDICAL SUPPLIES DEMAND (million dollars) % Annual Growth
Item
2009
2019
20092014
20142019
Disposable Medical Supplies
35700 44100 54100
4.3
4.2
Drug Delivery Products
8840 11330 14400
5.1
4.9
Wound Management Products
8350 10040 12100
3.8
3.8
Nonwoven Medical Disposables
4850
7700
4.9
4.6
13660 16580 19900
4.0
3.7
Other Disposable Medical Supplies
2014
6150
solutions will lead growth.” Disposable wound management products are projected to post demand of $12.1 billion in 2020. Polymeric tissue sealants, along with alginate, foam, and collagen wound dressings, will realise the fastest gains based on enhanced safety and faster healing properties. On the other hand, demand for bandages will expand at a below average pace due to limited pricing flexibility and the overall lack of proprietary types. First aid kits will fare the best among other disposable wound management products, benefiting from trends promoting self-treatment. Conversely, advances in less invasive surgery and tissue sealants will weaken the overall US market for traditional suture and staple wound closures. Nonwoven medical disposables will see above average growth in demand. The heightened focus on infection prevention in the healthcare sector will boost consumption of single-use, high value-added nonwoven garments and textiles by hospitals and outpatient facilities. A rising prevalence of bladder control problems attributable to the aging population will impact favourably on retail and institutional sales of nonwoven incontinence goods. The best growth in demand among other disposable medical supplies will occur in products with enhanced infection prevention, performance, and/or cost containment benefits.
Filatex’s Dahej plant commences production
T
extile firm Filatex India has commenced commercial production of polyester fully drawn yarns at its plant in Dahej, Gujarat. The commercial production to manufacture 100 mn t/day of polyester fully drawn yarns at company’s existing unit at Dahej has commenced with effect from March 4. Filatex is also in process of installing about 40 texturising machines at the plant. Two texturising machines have been installed of which commercial production has also been started with effect from March 4. The remaining machines would be installed in phases and
24 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
is likely to be completed by September. In September last year, Filatex India had proposed to put up manufacturing facilities for polyester fully drawn yarns at its Dahej unit with a cost of Rs 100 crore, to ramp up long-term profitability. This will lead to lower per tonne capital cost, which in turn will put the company to a recurring advantage by way of lower depreciation and interest. Also, other fixed expenses like staff cost and factory overheads would also be spread over bigger production volumes leading to improvement in profitability, it added.
NEWSLINE
EU trade in textile goods up in 2015
A
ccording to CITH, the Textile and Clothing Information Centre, the EU textile and clothing exporters succeeded in gaining further market shares in third countries (+3.6 per cent). On the imports side, the EU imports picked up by +9.6 per cent in value terms, due to sharp increases from Asian countries. On the contrary, imports from the Mediterranean area (Turkey, Egypt, Morocco, and Tunisia) achieved a modest growth or even decreased over the period. This 2015 evolution impacted the overall trade balance of the EU-28, which deficit deteriorated further in value, by +14 per cent (+29 per cent for textiles and +13 per cent for clothing).
Exports went up by 3.6% Textiles’ sales to the US, EU’s top market, recorded a noticeable growth rate (+16 per cent). Moreover, among the EU top 10 customers, moderate expansion was recorded by Hong Kong and China (with respectively +7 per cent and +6 per cent). On the contrary, exports to Russia (-27 per cent) and Ukraine (-1 per cent) slipped back again, as economy remains depressed in these markets. Clothing exports to its main consumers indicated a higher growth rates than for textiles. Data shows a noticeable growth in the US, Hong Kong, South Korea, Canada and China (with rates between +19 per cent and +22 per cent), which made the US the second largest EU customer and China the
sixth. Exports to Saudi Arabian and Mexican markets also experienced a significant expansion (with respectively +17 per cent and +15 per cent). Russia and Ukraine on the other hand declined, following the political turmoil.
T&C imports rise 9.6% Textile imports coming from EU top 20 suppliers were all up, except from Egypt, Thailand and Australia. Among the main suppliers, the US witnessed the highest growth with +16 per cent, followed by China, Pakistan and Vietnam (with +11 per cent). At the bottom of the ranking, Morocco and New Zealand records respectively a +17 per cent and +39 per cent increase. Clothing imports coming from most Asian countries recorded double digit growth rates.
EU T&C exports went up by 3.6% in 2015 Textiles’ sales to the U.S., EU’s top market, recorded a noticeable growth rate (+16%), thanks to a favorable exchange rate. Moreover, among the EU top 10 customers, moderate expansion was recorded by Hong Kong and China (with respectively +7% and +6%). On the contrary, exports to Russia (-27%) and Ukraine (-1%) slipped back again, as economy remains depressed in these markets. Clothing exports to its main consumers indicated a higher growth rates than for textiles.
OBITUARY
Suresh B Rao (1936-2016)
T
he members of the Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA) deeply mourns the sad and sudden demise of Suresh B Rao on February 28, 2016 at Mumbai. The textile engineering industry in general and ITAMMA in particular have suffered a grievous loss on his passing away and recalls with high appreciation his abiding contributions. Rao was elected as the 51st & 52nd President of ITAMMA in the year 1993-94 and 1994-95 and also had been on the Board of Trustees since last two decades. Till the very last day of his passing away, he pro-actively addressed ITAMMA through correspondence in spite of his failing health through sheer will power and dedication. During his Presidentship of ITAMMA and ViceChairmanship of India-ITME Society, he took keen interest in the activities of the association. He was amenable and courteous in handling various issues concerning the activities of the association. The demise of Rao created a void which is difficult to fill. He will be
26 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
very much missed by the members of ITAMMA, India-ITME Society and all his colleagues who had benefitted by his counsel. He was the sole proprietor of Universal Marketing Corporation, Mumbai, which completed 50 glorious and successful years in 2015. His late wife, Shubha Suresh Rao, was a strong pillar of support through his personal and professional endeavours. Born on December 24, 1936, Rao passed his S.S.C at an early age of only 13 years due to a double promotion in school and graduated at 18 years in Bachelors of Science in Chemistry from Siddharth College, Mumbai. He then studied L.L.B at Government Law College Mumbai. He completed management studies from prestigious Bajaj Institute – in the very first batch conducted by the institution.
NEWSMAKERS
Siebert gets a new role at Rieter The Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG has appointed Jan Siebert to Rieter’s Group Executive Committee, effective April 1, 2016. Siebert will be in charge of the Machines & Systems Business Group. He has been successfully managing capital goods businesses on an international stage for many years. Before joining Rieter he was CEO of Krauss Maffei Group, from 2012 to 2015. Between 2005 and 2011, he held various positions at GEA Group, where he had been in charge of the heat exchangers division. In addition to his business experience, Siebert will bring his expertise to the table at Rieter’s R&D and Innovation Management. He takes over as Head of the Machines & Systems Business Group, which is a position that was previously held by CEO Norbert Klapper since January 2014 on an interim basis.
Promoting wool in India Arti Gudal is Country Manager – India at The Woolmark Company, a global authority on Merino wool and owns the Woolmark logo. She is making all-out efforts to make wool a name in the tropical conditions of India. Distinction of leveraging business for Brands like Ed Hardy and Christian Audigier, Provogue India Ltd, Provogue and Triumph International (India) Pvt Ltd.
The denim guy at Arvind Aamir Akhtar is CEO – Denim Fabrics at Arvind Limited, a textile manufacturer and the flagship company of the Arvind Group. Strech denim is Arvind’s latest passion, and Akhtar is one of the driving forces at Arvind. Armed with a masters in business administration, he started his career with the oil industry. Akhtar switched tracks to move into the textile sector within four years, and since then, there has been no looking back.
P Modani at Sangam’s retail forefront Pranal Modani is Chief of Business Development at Sangam (India) Limited, the flagship company of the business conglomerate, Sangam Group. Pranal is presently heading the Sangam Group’s initiatives to expand their international and domestic presence through strategic alliances and partnerships with a key focus on a more consumer centric approach. In line with that, he is heading Sangam’s first retail venture “C9”, an aspirational brand for women’s clothing with a vision to become the category leader by 2020. He did his Masters in Management from London Business School and his engineering from Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, USA. He did a minor in Economics along with his engineering and was selected to do a six-week research programme at Oxford University. Pranal held several leadership positions during his time in college in the Family Business Club, Investments committee and Entrepreneurship society. 28 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
COVER STORY
DIGITAL PRINTING
Set to soar
Digital printing has made rapid strides since its entry early 2000, and in the last few years, most of the providers of this rapidly-evolving technology are eyeing India, which has shown double-digit growth, recount S Joseph and Karthik M.
30 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
www.indiantextilejournal.com
F
rom millions to billions, digital printing of textiles is set to sweep the markets worldwide, of which India will have a pivotal role to play. Presently, globally digital printing has not even scratched the surface, with just 3 per cent of the total volume, in which rotary printing takes a lion’s share of 65 per cent. But digital’s growth rate is already a whopping 25 per cent, and the markets are already showing the tangible results of its global leap. A look at the figures: In 2014, digital printing reached a printed volume of over 600 million sq m, which is expected to exceed 3.2 billion sq m in 2019. India’s figures are still more impressive. The geographic split in overall textile printing clearly shows China with 29.3 per cent at the top followed by EMEA (23.1 per cent) and India (17.6 per cent). The remaining amount is divided between the rest of Asia (17.4 per cent) and the American continent (12.6 per cent). Dr John Provost, founder of Provost Ink Jet Consulting Ltd, expects an annual growth of up to 25 per cent between 2012 and 2017 for digital printing – a stark contrast to the 2.5 per cent growth expected for conventional printing methods. “Digital textile printing is proving a particular favourite within high-quality, short-run projects as pre-treated fabrics, vibrant inks and finishing techniques provide an excellent end product. Italy is well known as an epicentre for textile printing in Europe, in particular the Lake Como region, where many manufacturers base themselves,” says Roz McGuinness, Divisional Director, Federation of European Screen Printers Associations (FESPA), whose event, FESPA Digital 2016 celebrated only last month the 10th year anniversary of the show.
standard of quality, both by stylists and designers and by final consumers.
New technologies on the horizon
The textile printing industry is one of the largest consumers of water in the textile industry and there is increasing legislation to reduce pollution, greenhouse gases and water usage in the major textile printing countries.”
Innovation in digital printing is what is making it a hot topic! Single-pass system, one-ink-all-fabrics and such process claims are forcing buyers to make a scramble for new technologies. Digital prints clarity is another brownie point for this new revolution in printing, which made its tentative foray sometime in 2000. Short runs, reduced process steps and elimination of a lot of polluting wastes are other reasons for the digital preference. Ultimately, digital is also ushering in a new era for sustainability in printing! Driven by the digital transformation of the printing processes, the textile industry has experienced a true renaissance in the past 15 years. Whilst developed in the early 90’s, digitally printed fabrics are rapidly evolving and for a while now have been providing the ability to print in high quality, on synthetic as well as natural fibres, at production speeds whilst at the same time using fewer resources such as water and energy. From production to end use, digital printing - having made notable progress on the quality front too - has ended up influencing market tastes. The particular features of fabric printed digitally are now accepted as the new
Epson’s solutions for digital printing: Epson, a global innovation leader dedicated to exceeding expectations with solutions for markets as diverse as the office, home, commerce and industry, launched Monna Lisa at the ITMA Milan in 2015. Monna Lisa created ripples of interest at the ITMA Milan in 2015. Said Paolo Crespi, Commercial Director at For.Tex: “Since the first unit in 2003, today there are more than 300 Monna Lisa located in Europe, Turkey, India, Brazil, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan and Japan, all still operating. Growing in all these countries and penetrating those market where the digital textile printing technique is at the beginning is a top priority. The Indian market, where the three companies plan to increase their market share, has proved a huge potential: over the last two/three years, India has shown the highest growth rate and in fact, the three companies have a direct presence for technical service and customer support. For the future, the three companies will concentrate in the developments of inks, with a wider colour extension and more effort in meeting the performance need required by the textile market, but also in Monna Lisa printing technology, increasing the productivity while maintaining the high quality and the effort to further reduce the environmental impact.” (Read full interview with Paolo Crespi later in the issue) Epson’s major breakthrough in digital printing include Epson Stylus Pro 4900 SpectroProofing Edition and Epson SureColor SC-S70600. With its 98 per cent PANTONE colours coverage, the Epson Stylus Pro 4900 SpectroProofing
- Dr John Provost founder of Provost Ink Jet Consulting Ltd The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 31
COVER STORY
Since the first unit in 2003, today there are more than 300 Monna Lisa located in Europe, Turkey, India, Brazil, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan and Japan” - Paolo Crespi Commercial Director at For.Tex Edition printer offers excellent colour accuracy and exceptional functionality for remote proofing making it a valuable tool for digital designers. This production printer sets new standards in colour precision. It is targeted at the pre-printing, packaging, design, professional photography and fine art reproduction industry. Epson SureColor SC-S70600 inkjet printer has an innovative application for the high fashion segment, particularly in the field of accessories and plastic-coated fabric printing for producing bags, shoes, and accessories in artificial leather with customised with the designer’s logo or graphics and drawings embellishments. Designed especially for posters, banners, backlit panels and POS materials production, Epson SureColor SC-S70600 is
32 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
a printer for rolled material up to 64 inches wide. It is available in eight or ten colours. One Ink, All Fabrics!: Bordeaux is one of the inkjet ink pioneers in digital inkjet ink manufacturing. The company, formed in 1999, offers solvent, water and other types of inkjet ink for all wide format printing. The company recently established Velvet Jet, a textile division dedicated for developing, manufacturing and marketing of inkjet inks for textile. Its latest development is a pigment ink, that can print on all types of fabrics, which enables to digitally print short runs of fashion of a mixed or multifibre fabric in one process. Guy Evron, Marketing Director at Velvet Jet, the textile ink division of Bordeaux Digital Printink, said, “With the use of the Velvet Jet pigment ink, print houses are able to simplify the print procedure with a single pretreatment for all fabric and no post treatment required in order to fixate the ink to the fabric. This simple print process enables printing for a large range of applications in one print shop with one printing line, without the need to change inks. This bold concept completely redefines digital textile printing, which until today, was characterised by multiple inks for different fabrics and complex print procedures.” (Read full interview with Guy Evron later in the issue) ColorJet’s high speed printer, Metro: After receiving good reviews and orders at ITMA 2015, ColorJet Group, one of the largest manufacturers of digital printing machines in India, has now introduced METRO at GARFAB 2016. The METRO is a truly advanced high speed industrial grade digital textile printer, which fantastically incorporates the latest technology and efficient engineering to meet ever growing demands. It operates at a maximum speed of 362 sq m per hour.
Revolutionary pigmented ink for direct inkjet printing on any fabric
3 One ink for printing on all fabrics: cotton, polyester, viscose, lycra, silk and all blends. 3 Single pretreatment for all fabrics 3 No post treatment needed For the next textile printing revolution go to
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COVER STORY
The new generation of Colaris
A
T.E. has further strengthened its portfolio of high quality products. Zimmer Austria has partnered with A.T.E. since 2013 for the marketing of Zimmer’s textile and carpet digital printing solutions in India. A.T.E. has a team of well trained and experienced engineers, who have been extensively trained in Zimmer machines and can handle the erection, commissioning and trouble-shooting of these machines independently. Customers can now avail of quick and cost effective services from A.T.E. Recently, Zimmer Austria announced the next generation of their digital textile high performance printer. Next generation of COLARIS print lines with higher density print heads to cover even a wider range of application possibilities. The new COLARIS A-DX printer is based on a re-engineered structure of the well-known, solid built predecessor COLARIS printer. The modular layout is been continued and makes the printer ideal for customised solutions, no matter whether the application engine is to be used for printing of fashion fabrics, home textile, decorative fabrics, flags and banners, terry towel, fur blankets, carpet substrates, or as a digital coating unit. The printer can not only be complimented with the proven Magnoroll inline pre-treatment system, but now also with the COLARIS-DPT digital inline pre-treatment system, which is originating from the famous ChromoJET printer, that was initially developed as a digital carpet print system and has more recently also entered the blanket printing and the digital coating segment. The heart for the new COLARIS A-DX printer that
34 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
allows such kind of flexibility is a complete new print engine. The same is based on the FUJIFILM Dimatix Starfire SG-1024 print head generation with a native resolution of 400 dpi and a droplet size range from 8 to 150 pl, generated from three interchangeable print head models. Key features of the new print heads are its robust construction with a metal nozzle plate to withstand the tough environment of an industrial textile environment, as well as the possible repair of the head that demands for greatly extended life span and a substantial cost reduction in printing. The print head also comes with ReadyJet ink circulation system, which guarantees an extremely stable operation condition throughout the complete jetting frequency range and at any ink demand. A better print image without banding is another advantage for the user. Through the permanent circulation of ink directly at the nozzle plate, the drying of ink that causes nozzle blockage, has been eliminated and no more purging to free blocked nozzles is required. The benefit is a substantial reduction on ink consumption! VersaDrop binary and greyscale jetting technology allows a wider range of print head control to scale the print head exactly to the needs of the printer. The ink droplet velocity is comparably higher to achieve a precise dot positioning. An improved print image is the benefit. High droplet velocity allows increased distance between the print head and the print substrate for a better production of the print head. The scalability of the COLARIS A-DX will allow to configure the capacity in the range of 670 through 1.670 m²/h at 400/400 dpi with an ink limit of 7,5 ml/m² when using the SG-124/SA print head. Colaris Infiniti SK is the out-of-the-box solution at a very attractive price.The printer is built in Shanghai, China and engineered by Zimmer, Austria. The high quality printer at lower price comes with 32 Seiko 1024 printheads. It attains high productivity with a two pass speed of 350m2/hour at 360x720dpi.Colaris Infiniti is the result of Zimmer’s textile and Colaris expertise with manufacturing and inkjet know how of Union International, China.
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 35
COVER STORY
With the use of the Velvet Jet pigment ink, print houses are able to simplify the print procedure with a single pretreatment for all fabric” - Guy Evron Marketing Director at Velvet Jet The high speed is achieved through specially-designed jetting controls to optimise print heads performance, to match the high jetting frequency and the mechanical structure is designed to handle high speeds and precise dot placements Compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive acid disperse and pigment, this printer weaves magic on a variety of fabrics. Be it any kind of fabric, ranging from 0.1 mm to 30 mm including cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and various blended fabrics can be printed on the METRO. With awesome scalable properties, this printer can suit all the needs of the textile printing business and delivers in the least payback period. It is equipped with a heater and feeder is capable of meeting the ever changing requirements of the fabric printing industry. “Apart from the price being very competitive, since our digital textile printers are manufactured at a state-of-theart manufacturing facility in India itself, buyers of our machines are eligible for various subsidies and benefits offered by the Government of India under EPCG & TUF schemes,” says Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at ColorJet. (Read full interview with Smarth Bansal later in the issue) Digital printing innovation by DyStar® & Zimmer: In response to the new industry standards, DyStar launched Jettex 4.0, the highest performing digital textile printing inks. The Jettex 4.0 ink ranges are available for all state-ofthe-art and newly introduced printheads. Reactive, acid, disperse and sublimation inks are DyStar’s latest range. They also meet the most stringent ecological and fastness requirements. All newly launched Jettex Black inks exceed current limits and are setting new industry benchmarks towards deepest blacks. The new Vat Inks are thus far none of the digital printing systems could fulfill the very high fastness requirements on inks in the home textile segment e.g. the 36 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
very high fastness to light (especially in pale shades), high fastness to multiple washing and fastness to rubbing. Based on their Indanthren Vat dyes, DyStar developed Jettex Vat inks, the first industrialised vat inks on the market. Their high performance characteristics include: high fastness to light, even in pale shades; high fastness to multiple washing; no crease markings like pigment prints; good fastness to rubbing; real, dark blacks compared to pigment prints; Vivid, brilliant shades; Excellent handle and drape of fabrics. The new Jettex Vat inks are the fit for the home textile market. The CMYK colour set is already available and DyStar will launch more shades in 2016 to offer a complete range to industries with high performance requirements. Zimmer Austria and DyStar have been partnering for many years in developing inkjet technology. This cooperation is also the base of the VAT inkjet printing technology used in Colaris³. VAT inks are highly pigmented inks and to allow a reliable inkjet operation it has turned out that only circulating printheads can be used. Zimmer’s Colaris³ is based on the Fuji Dimatix Starfire technology which is one of the most robust and reliable printheads on the market using a circulation system. Zimmer’s next gen printer: Recently, Zimmer Austria announced the next generation of their digital textile high performance printer. Next generation of COLARIS print lines with higher density print heads to cover even a wider range of application possibilities. The new COLARIS A-DX printer is based on a re-engineered structure of the well-known, solid built predecessor COLARIS printer. The modular layout is been continued and makes the printer ideal for customised solutions, no matter whether the application engine is to be used for printing of fashion fabrics, home textile, decorative fabrics, flags and banners, terry towel, fur blankets, carpet substrates, or as a digital coating unit. The printer can not only be complimented with the proven Magnoroll inline pre-treatment system, but now also with the COLARIS-DPT digital inline pretreatment system, which is originating from the famous ChromoJET printer, that was initially developed as a digital carpet print system and has more recently also entered the blanket printing and the digital coating segment. The scalability of the COLARIS A-DX will allow to configure the capacity in the range of 670 through 1.670 m²/h at 400/400 dpi with an ink limit of 7,5 ml/m² when using the SG-124/SA print head. Colaris Infiniti SK is the out-of-the-box solution at a very attractive price. The printer is built in Shanghai, China and engineered by Zimmer, Austria. The high quality printer at lower price comes with 32 Seiko 1024 printheads.It attains high productivity with a two pass speed of 350m2/hour at 360x720dpi.Colaris Infiniti is the result of Zimmer’s textile and Colaris expertise with manufacturing and inkjet know how of Union International, China. Aleph’s LaForte®Paper & LaForte®Textile printers: Aleph Srl,
COVER STORY
Earlier, fabrics needed to be pre-treated before digital printing, but we now offer technology, which eliminates the need to do so, ensuring faster turnaround times.” - Smarth Bansal Brand Manager, ColorJet Group Italy presented to the international market the two new industrial large format digital printers LaForte®Paper and LaForte®Textile, delivering high performance and allowing the quickly creation of high quality finished product with precision. The arguments that convinced visitors and customers during the presentation were the technical and mechanical aspects of the two models as a result of an outstanding work masterfully executed by Aleph engineers and of course the typically Italian design and aesthetics. The printing demonstrations further emphasised the worth of the two models. The two LaForte® machines are on top of their category and are becoming a reference point for the digital printing market for fabric and transfer paper, thanks to their high production capacity reaching a printing speed of 640sqm / h. The greatest benefit comes for all production companies, in Italy and in the world, which normally use digital printing exclusively for small batch, continuing to use the traditional printing with a considerable increase in costs; from now on, with the two industrial printers LaForte®Paper and LaForte®Textile they can take advantage of the benefits and innovation in digital printing for the entire production. Both printers are equipped with the latest technology noticeable in the ease of use, the convenient operation of large and heavy reels (up to 10,000 m in length and 180 cm in width) and the use of inks that deliver maximum resolution up to 1200 dpi. EFI acquires Rialco, presents new printers: EFI™ has very recently announced that it has acquired Rialco® Limited, one of Europe’s leading suppliers of dye powders and color products for digital print and industrial manufacturing industries. Rialco will now operate as part of EFI’s industrial inkjet business, and will continue to work closely with and support its existing clients as well as
expand and grow its capabilities with new products and new customers. EFI plans to improve its inkjet portfolio with Rialco’s advanced ink component capabilities. EFI featured six new EFI™ VUTEk® printers, including one of the world’s fastest production-class hybrid LED printers, a new, flagship high-volume inkjet press, and a VUTEk textile printer making its worldwide debut, at Fespa Digital 2016. The 3-m-wide EFI VUTEk LX3 Pro hybrid roll/flatbed LED inkjet printer making its European debut at the show is a leader in production-class LED inkjet graphics print engine speeds with fast throughput of up to 318 sq m per hour. The printer also offers high-resolution greyscale imaging and its cool cure LED technology is a greener solution that reduces energy usage and costs while giving users the ability to print on a wider range of media, including media that cannot withstand the heat of other curing or drying methods. EFI also premiered a new VUTEk printer to help customers capture new opportunities based on surging demand for high-quality, lightweight reusable fabric graphic soft signage used in retail visual merchandising, trade show graphics and other applications. Indian Dyes Sales to distribute DTG Printers: The DTG Viper2 is among the most productive direct to garment printers in the industry. The DTG exclusive 4-2-1 platen system offers the versatility of printing four smaller images, two standard or one oversize image without the need for purchasing multiple size platens. The printers have high printing speed and are designed for industrial use. The 4-2-1 garment pallet system is truly unique to the DTG Viper2 and prints multiple garments at a time as standard with our specialty pallet assembly with auto registration built in. Simply bring your designs from most major graphics software into our DTG RIP templates and your artwork is easily positioned with pinpoint registration (achieved via a unique conveyor garment loading system). The micro servo motor driven conveyor system produces perfect dot registration accurate to 0.017mm. The M-Series is 100 per cent flexible with a multitude of Tex Loc™ platen options for kid’s sizes through to super wide prints. The M-Series bed in standard configuration supports two standard shirts with a unique bridge to allow extra wide prints to a maximum of 610 x 450mm (24 inch x 17.7 inch). The following are some models available in DTG M-Series: DTG M2 Industrial Direct-to-Garment Printer: The M2 series machine is designed with a bespoke firmware specifically created for optimal print quality at higher production speeds by adoption of greater ink droplet control and accurate placement on the garment. DTG M4 Direct-to-Garment Printer: The DTG M4 printer
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 41
COVER STORY is the ideal production centre for high volume print requirements. It boasts the same features as the industry leading M2 but with a far larger and scalable printable field area. The standard configuration of 4 x adult platens allows an operator to adopt a”set and forget” production workflow, effectively maximising output and minimising manpower. DTG M6 Direct-to-Garment Printer: The DTG Digital M6 model is designed for multiple garment prints and fashion panel decoration. A dual 4 color ink system supports a wider variety of ink styles for increased textile direct applications with 3 ink solutions developed specifically for flatbed inkjet printing to textiles.
Digital textile printing is proving a particular favourite within highquality, short-run projects as pre-treated fabrics, vibrant inks and finishing techniques” - Roz McGuinness Divisional Director, FESPA SPGPrints’ new Nebula sublimation ink range: SPGPrints recently launched its new range of Nebula sublimation inks at FESPA Digital 2016, at Amsterdam, RAI. Among other highlights, SPGPrints also presented information on the PIKE® digital printer and its full range of inks for the textile industry. The addition of Nebula Sublimation inks extends the realm of high quality digital textile printing with a wider colour gamut, reduced manufacturing costs and high print quality. In the last two years, sublimation printing has established a strong position in digital textile printing for fashion applications driven by the improved quality of polyester fabrics, making them suitable for fashion garments and acceptable to the major brands. Formulated for use with Kyocera print heads, SPGPrints’ Nebula range enables printers using any equipment with those heads to benefit from the gamut, vibrance, image quality, runnability and productivity made possible by the latest ink technologies. SPGPrints develops and manufactures its own inks at its ink plant Boxmeer, the Netherlands. The plant has recently completed the latest of three expansion programmes adding new equipment and doubling its production space. Using specially formulated PIKE Reactive inks that eliminate mist, and Archer® technology, the PIKE printer 42 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
can jet up to 4 mm between substrate and print head, making it possible to print a wide range of substrates in a single pass. This distance also means that print head damage from contact with substrates is virtually eliminated. An array of 43 Fujifilm Samba print heads fire at 32 KHz across the 1850 mm print width delivering variable dot sizes (from 2-10 pl) at a resolution of 1200 x 1200dpi. This powerful printer combines high volume output – up to 13 million sq m per year with high-quality print in a time-saving workflow, and opens a new era in the textile printing. SPGPrints also plans to launch its JAVELIN® printer at ITM in Turkey in June. This versatile new printer, designed for production up to two million metres per year, offers a way for textile printers to take the first step into digital or for existing digital printers to step up their digital operations. Archroma’s inkpresso® system: Archroma, a global leader in colour and specialty chemicals, officially introduced its new Inkpresso® system for digital printing at ITMA in Milan. Developed together with Ink-Situ, a Swiss technology provider, Inkpresso will change the way inks are supplied to digital printers. The system brings together benefits that were unattainable so far in inkjet printing: Production flexibility, no shelf-life problems, a larger color spectrum and the possibility of an individual coloristic fingerprint. More than 20 billion linear meters of printed textiles are produced every year. Currently, only around two percent of these are made using digital printing techniques. The central component of the system is the Inkpresso Ink Formulation Unit (IFU), where eight color modules are available. The colors can be mixed to meet manufacturers’ specific needs – at any time. Depending on the size and complexity of the printing company, inks can be sent directly from the Inkpresso IFU to the printer through a piping system, or several printers can be supplied simultaneously using a special distribution unit. In addition, colors can be stored for several weeks in a storage unit.
The digital textile valley is Italian Italy has played a major role in the technological transformation of the textile printing industry. A key figure in the change has been the textile district in the Como area, which has historically been at the leading edge of silk-screen production. Spurred by the need to stem the flight of production towards the Far East, and aware of having to focus on the sector’s creativity and know how, the textile firms in the Como area have been able to react, restructure and restart. They have counted on their well-established international vocation—70 per cent of production is for export—and on technological evolution: digital textile printing has gone from 2 per cent of total production in 2003 to 58 per cent in 2013, and, based on
COVER STORY estimates, it will reach 81 per cent in 2017. What this means is that 8 sq m out of 10 of textiles will be printed digitally. These figures prove that in the Italian Digital Textile Valley, the evolution towards digital printing has already happened. From the world of high fashion to fast fashion clothing to sportswear, from accessories to furnishings, the boom in digital printing on textiles has contributed to transforming the dynamics underlying the individual sectors, in creative, productive and application terms. Digital inkjet technology opens the doors to creativity by encouraging photographic reproduction and the creation of more complex designs, as well as to experimentation with brand-new applications. It has also modified production process logic, reducing the time to market and enabling on demand production, in small and mediumsized volumes and in large numbers of variations, without any economic impact. Digital technology is behind the phenomenon of fast fashion, which we have seen explode and quickly establish itself over the last decade. Taking advantage of the new creative and productive opportunities provided by inkjet printing, the so-called fast fashion retailers—with Zara and H&M as trailblazers—have profoundly transformed the dynamics of the offering, introducing a rotation of the collections that is no longer seasonal but fortnightly and, in certain cases, weekly. This formula—an offering of assorted items, continually renewed and at competitive prices—has had enormous success at a mass-market level. Digital printing has enabled—on the production level—the drastic reduction of the time to market, in other words the production schedules from the creation of the design to the delivery of the finished product, and the fashion brand owners immediately identified and seized this opportunity. The digitally printed textiles for interior furnishings are a relatively small segment – around 10 per cent of the digital textile printing market. However, there is considerable development potential given the breadth of the sector—which includes household linen, curtains, sofas, napkins and wallpaper—and the growing interest from brand owners. The use of inkjet in textile printing began in the graphics sector with many print service providers producing signs, banners and flags on wide and superwide format roll-to-roll devices, predominantly using polyester and sublimation technology. At the same time, some fabric producers took notice of digital wide format printing as a way to produce short run samples of fabrics or strike-off samples. This early usage turned few innovators rooted in fabric manufacturing to integrate the power of inkjet printing with traditional fabric manufacturing technologies such as fabric pre-and post- treatment, and belt transportation both critical for ultimate output quality. 44 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
As with other digital technology, inkjet continues to push the boundaries in terms of speed, quality and capability year on year. There is now a new generation of roll-to-roll inkjet printer devices ranging from entry level to full production which between them support the full range of inks required for different fabric types and applications from low-volume machines for sublimation printing to systems capable of over 8,000 m2/h standard quality in single pass printing according to information from the technical specifications announced by some vendors. These single pass printing systems are mainly used in the apparel and decor markets.
Digital direct to garment printing In the early 2000s, direct to garment (DTG) printing on t-shirts had emerged using modified desktop inkjet printers, pigment inks and fabric pre-treatment. Today this market has evolved to drive over 200 million garments annually as the initial modified systems developed into a multi-vendor industry encompassing dedicated DTG machines from desktop devices printing around 20 t-shirts per hour up to production systems that in some cases can print more than 400 t-shirts per hour. Acid inks, water-based dispersion inks and pigment inks are currently the most used ink types in the digital textile industry. Reactive inks are the ones most used for natural textiles intended for fashion and furnishing applications while pigment colourants are also starting to be used, especially for large volume productions. Animal textiles, such as silk and wool, require the use of reactive and acid inks for items of clothing and home decor. There are differences between the different synthetic fibres: for polyester—mostly used in applications for soft signage, advertising printing and furnishings—dispersion inks are used while for polyamide—much used in sports clothing made in nylon and lycra—the right choice is acid inks. Finally, viscose, the artificial textile par excellence, requires reactive inks.
Technology and the environment In a period when attention is growing in environmental sustainability, digital printing has caused a decisive shift in the textile industry towards a much greener and more efficient management of the entire supply chain. The difference compared to traditional processes has been clear since the early years when textile print houses and textile firms engaged in the digital transformation have started to see the ecological benefits, as well as the economic ones, tied to the new technology. If the environmental advantages brought by digital printing are universally recognised and tracked and measured within many companies, there is a new paradigm to face up to: sustainability as a new lever of competitiveness for companies in the sector.
Less water, less energy: these are the two factors that from the start have attracted the sector’s attention. Going forward, the reduction has been put into effect also in other parts of the process. Digital technology allows a significant containment of the consumption of inks in the printing stage thanks to the lower quantity of colour required by the systems’ set-up time and to the use, of almost the totality of the colour put into the machine – a factor which reduces waste. The road of environmental and economic sustainability is the one that, thanks to the support of digital printing, the companies in the textile sector intend to take in the present and the near future. Not only for the competitive advantages met in these years of transformation but also in the face of the new sensitivity that is being confirmed in the market: the demand for goods produced sustainably and not harmfully is also, becoming a priority for the brand owners and end consumers.
Future for digital textile printing The textile digital printing technology has made giant strides since it was first introduced in the textile industry. Given the broad range of inkjet printing solutions currently available—ranging from entry level to full production—many textile manufacturers are moving towards the digital technology. As a result, production digital textile printing machines tend to be placed in textile mills that are replacing some traditional rotary or screen printing volume with digital ready for cut and sew applications. The adoption of digital has been so far driven by a number of factors, namely the need to improve the environmental impact and the output design creativity, as well as to satisfy the demand for shorter print volumes and faster turnarounds more effectively. Looking at the near future, digital printing will continue to penetrate the traditional textile printing industry at strong double digit growth rates per year. This trend will be driven through continued technological developments across the range of inks and substrates with the aim of bringing the cost to print digitally down per meter squared or per garment and the flexibility of ink and substrate usage up, all within the context of environmental conservation. Whilst in the longer term as digital volumes increase and economies of scale start to kick in with production of digital printhead and ink technologies there will be a drive to bring the cost down further enabling, for example, widespread take up of digital pigment ink printing on natural fibres for the home textiles sector. When it comes to the digital production printing systems, the technology providers will keep their focus on enhancing speed and productivity and they will also be engaged in addressing the demand rising from the market for a broader capacity in finishing and print enrichment.
USTER TESTER 6 ®
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The Total Testing Center™ – incorporated in the USTER ® TESTER 6 – combines results from laboratory tests with online data, providing 100 % quality control. It covers all the spinning mill processes, and extends the options as each instrument connects to the system. It’s a unique business tool, transforming data into practical choices for quality yarns and profitable production. The new USTER ® TESTER 6 sets new global standards in evenness testing – and is the starting point for future mill management.
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COVER STORY
The magic of One Ink for All Fabrics!
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elvet Jet is the textile inks division of Bordeaux Digital Printink, an Israel-based developer, manufacturer and distributor of customerfocused premium inks and comprehensive solutions for all wide format inkjet technologies, printers and the graphic arts industry. For the past 15 years, Bordeaux has been a worldwide leader in development of a wide range of inks for the digital printing market for an enormous amounts of applications and industries. The company products are recognised worldwide as highly reliable and cost-effective inkjet inks and coatings for wide and super wide digital printing industry, for all latest printhead technologies including Epson, Xaar, Konica Minolta, Toshiba and many more. Velvet Jet aims to utilize the years of experience in ink development and offer the textile printing industry new, innovative solutions in order to support this widely developing market. Velvet Jet set recently another major milestone by passing the most rigorous level of testing and received the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) approval. This is another proof for the high quality of this pigmented ink. Velvet Jet’s GOTS certification provides yet another credible assurance for textile manufacturers that its pigment ink are also the most ecological choice, while maintaining high quality characteristics including uniform coverage for quality prints on any type of fabric while preserving the natural feel of the fabrics. Velvet Jet brings a true ecological solution for textile print shops. First, with its GOTS seal this allergenicfree, water based and safe to use ink, assures it is the most ecological ink to use for digital textile printing. In addition, with its single pretreatment to all types of fabrics there is no post treatment required, no need to steam and wash post printing, thus there are no wash and dry cycles. As a result there is a tremendous reduction in electricity and water consumption and the entire process is shorten. “Velvet Jet is already making waves in the textile segments as it brings a true change to the industry. Velvet Jet’s pigment ink simplifies the complexity of the current digital textile printing.” Says Guy Evron, Marketing Director at Velvet Jet. “With the latest GOTS certification we are also 46 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
providing the assurance to our customers the use of our inks will benefit the environment and allow products to be marked as organic.” As home textile, fashion, décor and garment manufacturers are looking into digital printing process for easy and efficient processes, Velvet Jet ink, with the simple one ink-one process for all fabrics digital, is expected to dominate the textile printing arena. Guy Evron spoke to Samuel Joseph, Editor of The Indian Textile Journal, in an exclusive interview. Excerpts: Editor: With the rapid growth of digital printing technology, give us briefly the growth of your company in this field. Guy Evron: Bordeaux is one of the inkjet ink pioneers in digital inkjet ink manufacturing. The company, formed in 1999, offered solvent, water and other types of inkjet ink for all wide format printing and continues to sell these products today. A few years ago, the company developed its own dye sublimation inks used mainly in the printing of banners but also for polyester-dominated fabrics. Bordeaux’s dye sublimation inks broadened the company’s offering for textile. The company recently established Velvet Jet, a textile division dedicated for developing, manufacturing and marketing of inkjet inks for textile. Its latest development is a pigment ink, that can print on all types of fabrics, which enables to digitally print short runs of fashion of a mixed or multi-fibre fabric in one process.
Editor: What do you think are the benefits of your company’s specific technology and machinery? Guy Evron: Bordeaux’s professional achievements is guided by the company’s management and backed up by a professional and highly experienced R&D team. These two divisions enabled the development of the company’s newest pigment ink intended for digital printing on fabrics, which is part of a complete printing concept of a unified print process for all fabrics. With the use of the Velvet Jet pigment ink, print houses are able to simplify the print procedure with a single pretreatment for all fabric and no post treatment required in order to fixate the ink to the fabric. This simple print process enables printing for a large range of applications in one print shop with one printing line, without the need to change inks. This bold concept completely redefines digital textile printing, which until today, was characterised by multiple inks for different fabrics and complex print procedures. Editor: Where are your markets located? What are your future strategies? Guy Evron: In the digital printing market, Bordeaux already established its reputation for high quality inks and coatings and the company products are sold in over 100 countries worldwide via appointed distributors and printer resellers who sell the products directly to end users. However, for the textile digital printing market, Bordeaux separated its activity and all marketing and sales are done under the Velvet Jet division dedicated to textile digital printing. Velvet Jet’s marketing strategy is to work directly with textile digital printer manufacturers, printhead technology manufacturers and large end users with large production cycles who can benefit the most from Velvet Jet’s solution and direct support. Velvet Jet focuses on the main textile producing countries – India, Turkey, China and Italy, but maintain strong presence in the far east, Latin America and the rest of Europe.
The company recently established Velvet Jet, a textile division dedicated for developing, manufacturing and marketing of inkjet inks for textile.” the great advantages in digital printing, the textile industry is still relatively slow to adapt to digital printing since the technology has posed obstacles for easy adaptation in the length of the runs and their speed and the requirements of different ink types for different fibres. However, these barriers are falling with the introduction of Velvet Jet’s One Ink for All Fabrics pigment ink, capable of printing on many fiber types and with a single unified printing process. The ink is suitable for a wide variety of applications such as fashion, upholstery, sportswear, accessories and technical textiles, exhibiting high quality printing without the cumbersome preparation required in traditional printing.
Editor: How important is India’s market in your scheme of things? How are you developing it? Guy Evron: The Indian market has great significance in the world textile market. India, similar to the rest of the world, is gradually shifting textile printing to digital. Although the current rate of digital deployment is approximately 5 per cent, this is forecasted to grow in the coming years. As a textile producing country, India is likely to experience this growth and Velvet Jet pigment ink is a viable solution to the main limiting factors of digital textile printing. Editor: What changes and developments do you foresee in digital printing for the future? Guy Evron: As mentioned previously, the new frontier for digital printing lies in digital printing on textile. In spite of The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 47
COVER STORY
Epson sees huge potential in Indian market
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pson is a global innovation leader dedicated to exceeding expectations with solutions for markets as diverse as the office, home, commerce and industry. Epson’s lineup ranges from inkjet printers, printing systems and 3LCD projectors to industrial robots, smart glasses and sensing systems and is based on original compact, energy-saving, and highprecision technologies. Led by the Japan-based Seiko Epson Corporation, the Epson Group comprises more than 72,000 employees in 93 companies around the world. Epson Europe B.V., based in Amsterdam, is the Group’s regional headquarters for Europe, Middle-East, Russia, and Africa. With a workforce of 1,700 employees, Epson Europe’s sales for fiscal year 2014 were 1,551 million. Epson Italy, national sales company, for fiscal year 2014 registered over 220 million Euros of sales with a workforce of about 165 employees. In an exclusive email interaction with the Editor of The Indian Textile Journal, Paolo Crespi, Commercial Director at For.Tex, said: “It is the common interest in the technology what brought Epson, For.Tex and F.lii Robustelli
together. The union of Epson printing technology with For. Tex’ expertise in the market of dyes and products for fabric pre and post treatment and F.lli Robustelli’s printers engineering capabilities have resulted in the creation of Monna Lisa, the first ever digital printer to allow a reliable industrial textile printing production.” Monna Lisa created ripples of interest at the ITMA Milan in 2015. Said Crespi: “Since the first unit in 2003, today there are more than 300 Monna Lisa located in Europe, Turkey, India, Brazil, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan and Japan, all still operating. Growing in all these countries and penetrating those market where the digital textile printing technique is at the beginning is a top priority. The Indian market, where the three companies plan to increase their market share, has proved a huge potential: over the last two/three years, India has shown the highest growth rate and in fact, the three companies have a direct presence for technical service and customer support. For the future, the three companies will concentrate in the developments of inks, with a wider colour extension and more effort in meeting the performance need required by the textile market, but also in Monna Lisa printing technology, increasing the productivity while maintaining the high quality and the effort to further reduce the environmental impact.” Here are some of Epson’s major breakthrough in digital printing.
Epson Stylus Pro 4900 SpectroProofing Edition With its 98 per cent PANTONE colours coverage, this 17-inch inkjet printer, offers excellent colour accuracy and exceptional functionality for remote proofing making it a valuable tool for digital designers. This production printer sets new standards in colour precision. It is targeted at the pre-printing, packaging, design, professional photography and fine art reproduction industry. Its salient features are: Wide colour range: It easily provides uniform and precise samples, thanks to one of the market’s widest colour ranges. The printer is equipped with an Epson UltraChrome HDR 11-colour ink set and Thin Film Piezo (TFP) print heads. Accurate remote proofing: SpectroProofer is a printer line calibration tool. It ensures the same colour accuracy when using different materials, a rapid measurement of control strips and using third-party RIP, the International Colour Consortium (ICC) profile to create an excellent and precise colour accuracy. Greater productivity: 40 m²/hour production speed with 48 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
minimum maintenance requirements. A high-capacity front-loading paper tray facilitates the paper insertion. No time is wasted switching between cut sheet and paper roll during automated paper changing. The printer switches automatically between already installed matte black and photo black inks depending on the material used. Extraordinary flexibility: Printing on a wide range of materials up to 1.5mm thick, including matte cardboard for photos or presentations, canvas and fine art paper. Energy efficiency: It features the ENERGY STAR certification which attests to consumption efficiency for a lower environmental impact.
Epson SureColor SC-S70600 This inkjet printer has an innovative application for the high fashion segment, particularly in the field of accessories and plastic-coated fabric printing for producing bags, shoes, and accessories in artificial leather with customised with the designer’s logo or graphics and drawings embellishments. Designed especially for posters, banners, backlit panels and POS materials production, Epson SureColor SC-S70600 is a printer for rolled material up to 64 inches wide. It is available in eight or ten colours. The salient features are: Innovative inks use: In the 10-colour version, the printer uses white and metallic inks simultaneously. Maximum print quality: Using the Epson UltraChrome GSX and the Thin Film Piezo (TFP) print head together guarantees high precision ink drops positioning. Resolution up to 1440×1440 dpi provides outstanding print sharpness, precise details and smooth shading. High productivity: Up to 27.3 m2/h in an 8-colour high speed mode and up to 4.1 m2/h using metallic and white ink. Wide colour range: The GSX UltraChrome ink set includes, light magenta, light cyan, light black and orange in addition to the standard CMYK colours. The 10-colour version uses white and metallic inks, for a higher versatility. Thanks to light inks, both models produce perfectly homogeneous shades and gradations. The light black ink improves neutral grayscale quality even more. The advanced ink formulation ensures long-lasting prints that resist light in the outdoors for three years without needing lamination. Ergonomic design: It minimizes time and waste of consumables. Reduced environmental impact: Epson UltraChrome GSX inks are odourless and nickel-free. They are high energy efficient, ENERGY STAR certified, which further reduces operating costs and the printer environmental footprint. The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 49
COVER STORY
ColorJet: The digital printing expert
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olorJet has five ranges of digital textile printers. These are Vastrajet, Fabjet, Metro, Fabjet Duo and Aurajet Dye sublimation printers. Each of these printers address specific needs of various printers, while offering economies of scale,” said Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at Colorjet Group. “At ColorJet, we have seen good demand from both domestic and international market and have installed our direct to fabric printers in India as well as many other countries. Till date, ColorJet has installed and implemented over 4,000 of its printing solutions and products across 315 cities around the world,” he added. ColorJet Group is one of the largest manufacturers of digital inkjet printers in India, and markets its products in 14 countries worldwide. Founded in 2004, the company maintains its operations via two manufacturing facilities and sales offices spread across seven countries, which include India, China, Bangladesh, UAE and Sri Lanka. After receiving good reviews and orders at ITMA 2015, ColorJet Group, one of the largest manufacturers of digital printing machines in India, has now introduced the METRO recently at GARFAB 2016. The METRO is a truly advanced
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high speed industrial grade digital textile printer, which fantastically incorporates the latest technology and efficient engineering to meet ever growing demands. It operates at a maximum speed of 362 sq m per hour. The high speed is achieved through specially-designed jetting controls to optimise print heads performance, to match the high jetting frequency and the mechanical structure is designed to handle high speeds and precise dot
Earlier, fabrics needed to be pretreated before digital printing, but we now offer technology, which eliminates the need to do so, ensuring faster turnaround times.
placements. Compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive acid disperse and pigment, this printer weaves magic on a variety of fabrics. Be it any kind of fabric, ranging from 0.1 mm to 30 mm including cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and various blended fabrics can be printed on the METRO. With awesome scalable properties, this printer can suit all the needs of the textile printing business and delivers in the least payback period. It is equipped with a heater and feeder is capable of meeting the ever changing requirements of the fabric printing industry. In an exclusive interaction with the ITJ’s Sr Sub Editor Karthik Muthuveeran, Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at Colorjet Group shares about the market for digital printing in India and its future. What do you think are the big benefits of your company’s specific technology and machinery? Smarth Bansal: The main benefit from our company is the efficient engineering that we bring into every machine we manufacture and since it’s a made in India product, we make sure that the machines are produced keeping in mind the requirements of the Indian fabrics printing market. We have digital textile printers to print whether natural fibre or man-made fibre fabrics and also low volume or high volume printing. Where are your markets located-- globally? What are your future strategies? Smarth Bansal: Apart from India, ColorJet has its distribution network in Sri Lanka, Egypt, Kenya, Dubai, Bahrain and many other countries. Our future target markets are Indonesia, Philippines, Turkey and Vietnam. How important is India’s market in your scheme of things? How are you developing it? Smarth Bansal: Since we are an Indian company, the market is obviously and really important considering that the country is the second biggest global producer of textiles. We are developing our market by learning the requirements of the Indian market and then developing printers which meets those requirements. Towards that end, we are launching a new digital industrial textile printer, the Metro at Garfab trade show. What changes and developments do you foresee in digital printing for the future? Smarth Bansal: Earlier, fabrics needed to be pre-treated before digital printing, but we now offer technology, which eliminates the need to do so, ensuring faster turnaround times. Secondly, we see pigment ink printing gaining more acceptance, due to the versatility it brings with it. As and when costs go down, digital printing is expected to be the next driver of growth for the textile industry. For more information, visit www.colorjetgroup.com
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COVER STORY
Past, present & future of textile printing
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extiles and clothing has always been a part of the human culture. The Garden of Eden was the first instance in which man asked to be covered and since then the clothing industry have come a long way. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Clothes make the manâ&#x20AC;? claims the famous saying but how do we make the clothes? The present day range of fabrics is immense, from natural fabrics such as cotton, wool or silk to man-made fabrics based on polyester, polyamide and other human processed fabrics. The diversity of the fabrics as well as the design was always intrigued by new looks ruled by different outfits and extravagant costumes which gave rise to the elaborate fashion industry available today. The fast pace fashion industry takes advantage not only of the great fabric variety but also the textile printing possibilities. These possibilities were not always readily available as they are today. Evidence of textile printing was found in China and among the Incas in Peru already in the 1st century. In Europe, printed patterns on textiles were introduced much later due to the difficulty in achieving durable printing, which does not fade or wash off. It was not until the development of a durable dying stuff that enabled the first printing of patterns on textiles to emerge. The initial method used was rather primitive and done by hand. The method of wood blocking in which the pattern in engraved on a wooden block was the first attempt to print patterns on cloth and it is still employed today in some places in India and in Asia. The first successful attempt to mechanically print on
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a fabric was achieved by an engraved cylinder machine which used copper rollers to print on the fabric. The mechanised system, although its disadvantages, cheapened the printing process by relying less on expensive labour. Unfortunately, the company building these machines went bankrupt but the process was a major breakthrough in textile printing enabling six-colour printing and set the ground for the methods that followed. The next attempt to improve the printing on textile was done during the mid-19th century by stencil printing in which a stencil was made according to the pattern which needed to be printed. The stencil was usually of a thin metal material with recesses in the stencil in the shape of the printed pattern. The recesses enabled the ink or paste to be pushed onto the fabric and achieve the design. The first stencils were done flat and later were mounted on a cylinder roller which revolved continuously on the fabric. All these methods were actually the preface to the most popular printing method most common for textile printing and used until today, rotary screen printing. The method evolved from the cylinder press which were replaced by rotating drums that are much faster and enable printing of up to 16-colours on a fabric. Although this is an efficient and cost-effective method, it does have major drawbacks, especially in the current fashion marketplace. Preparing the pattern takes time and costs money, this has to be taken into account in the pricing of the final product. Furthermore, setting up the printer results in high
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downtime of the machine. Adding it up, screen printing is the ultimate solution for high volume production but not for short runs. The fashion industry is becoming more and more demanding and lurking for creative and unique opportunities. In order to persevere and meet consumer demands, the need for more diversity led to shorter printing runs. The same process occurred previously in the signage and graphic arts and trickled also into textile and fashion. Only a decade ago, fashion brands, fashion designers and store owners showcased only two collections per year. The transition in the market in recent years dictated introduction of new items throughout the season. This shortens the life span of the items and requires the industry to adapt and react faster with more fashion items but in small volumes. Even global retailers offer limited edition items and many fashion brands work in three-month cycle. This is true for fashion and apparel but also for home textile retailers who change their collections rapidly and offer a wider selection of designs. All manufacturers agree that diversity comes in place of quantity. The rapid change in the market required a solution. The solution, as in the case of signage, lay in the adaptation of digital printing also for the textile printing market. However, digital printing was not focused on textile and did not offer a plausible solution for printing on textile. The emerging of mass customisation in textile urged digital printer manufacturers to seek a solution. A solution that can change the marketplace and keep up with the continuous need for smaller quantities yet higher quality production that can be implemented in smaller production space and minimum setup time. A few companies started to introduce digital textile printer equipped with the common piezo printhead. These new printers enabled immediate textile sampling but not commercial printing since the speed was a major issue. More recent textile printers have improved the speed significantly. However, the speed is still a great problem in textile since the ink drying process is more complicated on textile compared to paper and other common substrates used in signage. Digital printing manufacturers who introduced textile digital printers realised soon after that the main obstacle for textile digital printing is in the ink. The inks used in digital textile printing are mostly dye based. These inks exhibit strong affinity to the fibres but are limited in the types of fabrics since each fibre requires a different type of dye. Reactive dyes are suited for cotton fibres while disperse dyes are only suited for polyester fibres and the list gets longer for other types of fibres. The specific affinity of the inks to a certain fibre resulted in a very distinct specialization process within the digital textile printing houses. Once a printing house gains experience with printing on a specific fibre, that house usually adheres to printing with a single type of fabric and achieves a high degree of expertise in the process. However, this specialization inhibits customers from
printing other fabric types in a single place. One of the main advantages of digital printing houses is the flexibility of printing all the customer needs in a single place. This does not concur with digital textile printing. The limitation of dye based ink led to the development of pigmented ink for digital textile printing. Pigment inks eliminate many of the fibre particularity associated with dye based inks and enable printing on a wider variety of fibres and especially blended fabrics. These inks also exhibit higher light fastness, wash and rub resistance. Wider variety, higher durability and a simpler posttreatment process made pigmented ink the main ink used in textile digital printing. However, unlike dye-based ink, pigmented ink does not have the strong affinity to the fabric which dye-based inks have, yet still require a pre-treatment and in some cases also a post-treatment. In the lack of affinity to the fibre, the adhesion is obtained by the binder, a co-polymer. The binder is a very crucial component of every pigmented ink and determines many of the inkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s characteristics. The binder must be compatible with the ink components such as its dispersants and additives. The binder must also be compatible with the fabricâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fibres. It is again, the binder that fixates the pigment to the fabric. Many companies have been trying to overcome the limitations of both dye ink and pigmented ink which prevented digital textile printing from becoming a dominant force within the overall textile printing industry. The solution for the ink quandary seems to have been resolved by Bordeaux Digital PrintInk, an Israeli based inkjet ink developing company that specializes in inkjet solutions for digital printing applications. The company offers a pigmented based digital textile ink which is suitable for all fabric types and a simple one step pretreatment and no chemical post-treatment. In addition, Bordeaux is offering the ink with full compatibility to most common printheads such as the Kyocera, Ricoh Gen 5, Konica Minolta and the Epson DX series. The ink is pigment based but the company claims that unlike other pigmented inks the ink renders the fabric soft and easily suitable also for clothing and fashion. The new inks exhibit the highest degree of durability of 5/5 in wash and rub resistance. The ink is suitable for a wide range of fabrics including mixed and blended fabrics and for the first time offers a true solution for digital printing on short-run applications. A new pigmented ink that can print on all fabrics is truly a breakthrough in digital printing. The combined solution for digital printing including a textile printer and a compatible ink that enables printing on a large number of fabrics hastened the digital printing penetration into textile and fashion. The embracing of digital printing on textile is the driving force for the fashion industry and contributes in shaping the textile industry as a whole including fashion but also home dĂŠcor and interior designing markets which can benefit and offer bountiful opportunities for personalised designs. The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 53
COVER STORY
Sustainability favours digital textile printing Digital textile printing may be a solution for sustainability, says Dr John Provost.
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he ITMA Milan in November 2015 had, as its main theme, sustainability in the textile industry (1, 2). As textile screen printing is one of the major users of energy, greenhouse emissions (kilos of CO2 Equivalent) and water usage, for cloth preparation, colour-paste preparation, screen and blanket washing and (for dye-based textile prints) in the washing-off stages of unfixed dye – the benefits of digital textile printing over traditional screen printing were very much highlighted both by exhibitors and by the ITMA organisers.. The majority of the digital textile exhibitors at ITMA, both the digital textile printing machinery suppliers (for example, 3, 4) and the major digital disperse-dye sublimation and textile pigment ink suppliers (for example, 5, 6), highlighted the savings that can be achieved in reductions in water usage, effluent and emissions savings. These savings were for so-called “dry” digital textile printing-ink technologies, which do not require subsequent wash-off after fixation, such as disperse dye-sublimation inks and textile digital pigment inks, targeting the home-textile print sector. The textile printing industry is one of the largest consumers of water in the textile industry and there is increasing legislation to reduce pollution, greenhouse gases and water usage in the major textile printing countries, for example, India and China - the world’s
Figure 1: Available fixed-print-head-array digital textile print machines (single-pass machines)
MS Italy LaRio
Konica Minolta Nassenger SP-1
Atexco (Honghua) Vega ONE
SPG Prints Pike
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Dr Provost is an independent digital textile printing consultant and technical editor of Digital Textile magazine, published by WTiN of the UK. He was 2009’s joint winner of the Henry E. Millson Award for Invention, for the development of the first commercially available digital inkjet printer for textile fabrics in 1991.awarded by the USA, AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) He also worked on digital textile inks at major chemical companies , including ICI.PLC, Zeneca PLC, Avecia PLC (now Fuji Imaging Colorants Ltd)) and BASF AG Germany.
largest textile screen printing market, which recently began formally implementing an updated Environmental Protection Code on January 1, 2015. The adoption of digital textile printing is seen by many traditional textile printing countries as a real answer to many of their environmental issues, which are now being addressed by enforcement of local legislation. Digital textile print production reached over 1.2 billion square metres in 2015 (in the region of 3.6 per cent market penetration) and, with current growth rates of the order of 20 per cent/year, we should achieve 6.25 per cent market penetration of the traditional screen printing market by 2019. Estimates for total Indian digital textile printing are in the region of 85 million square metres, approximately 7 per cent of current the digital market, still very small, considering India is the 2nd largest textile printing market, which currently prints 17.5 per cent of the global 31 billion square metres of the traditional textile prints. The real unknown factor, which could significantly increase digital-textile print production penetration, is the possible future market penetration of the fixed-print-headarray digital textile machines (so-called ‘single-pass’ types), which have the capability to match the millions of square metres printed per year by rotary screen machines. At ITMA 2015, the MS LaRio (Dover Group), which has been available for a number of years, with a recent first purchase in India by Shrijee Lifestyle PVT Ltd of Mumbai; was joined by Konica Minolta’s Nassenger SP1, SPG Prints’ “Pike” and the Honghua (Atexco) “Vega 1” in the highproduction, fixed print head array printers, single-pass market segment. (Figure 1). Figure 2 gives the results of a study by WTiN of the UK of the current global digital textile printing market, with a market forecast to 2019.
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Figure 3: Spreadsheet cost comparisons of Textile Rotary Screen production with digital textile production using typical input parameters f Digital Print Machine Costs- Amortization f Print Head Replacement Costs f Digital Print Production rates in sq. metres/hour f Printer Resolution, Type and No. of Passes f Type, Cost , Quality and Consumption of Digital Textile Inks f Fabric Types and weights/ constructions/pre-treatments f Individual Market Macro Costs f Specific Print Factory Costs. (Overheads, Labour cost etc. ©2016 Provost Ink jet Consulting Ltd
If we speculate that total sales of high-production fixed-print-head-array (‘single-pass’) machines could reach 100 global placements in three years, and assuming production per machine of around 10 million square metres per year, we could possibly add another one billion square metres to digital-textile production shown in Figure 2, which would take digital textile market penetration to the 10 per cent digital-textile penetration of the traditional analogue textile printing market.
by the digital textile print machine manufacturer or by the digital ink manufacturer, as a ‘selling tool’ to prospective purchasers, to promote the potential of their digital-textile
How to increase global market penetration of digital textile printing? The economics of digital textile printing (cost per square metre) in comparison to traditional screen printing are always the primary factor in the purchasing decision, and this normally entails very detailed studies. These are generally carried out by means of a detailed spreadsheet analysis, using real market and factory costs in ‘like-forlike’ production scenarios (for example, similar designs, quality of final print, fabric types, same dye/pigment ink types, similar run lengths, etc.). A typical result in schematic form is shown in Figure 2, with a summary of the major data inputs required to achieve the cost comparison and a graphical result, indicating the price per square metre cross-over price for digital to analogue. The cross-over point in Figure 2 indicates when digital and traditional screen printing are equal in overall costs per square metre of textile print production. The actual ‘cross over-point’ will obviously vary depending on the inputs used in the spreadsheet and will be different for different countries and print factories within a market. Also, the spreadsheet studies are prepared, in many cases, The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 55
COVER STORY print machine or digital-textile ink solution. On the digital-textile machinery side, the key inputs are the capital cost, amortisation period and interest rates, and the print production speed and daily production in square metres. On the digital-textile ink side, the cost per litre is always a well discussed area, together with the print-head operability performance, colour fastness, handle and colour strength produced on the textile fabric (ie. the amount of dye or pigment in the ink). The impact of savings in environmental costs by water reduction, energy reduction, greenhouse emissions (kilos of CO2 Equivalent) are, in many cases, not included in these studies, but considered more of a bonus to the actual purchasing decision.
Environmental aspects of digital printing The standard method of assessing the overall quantitative environmental impact on any product is by carrying out a total Life Cycle Analysis (7), which is a method to assess environmental impacts at all stages of a product’s life, from cradle to grave .This is very complex analysis and there has only been one detailed study reported in the public domain, by M. Kujanpaa and M. Nors of the VTT Technical Research Centex of Finland (8), which carried out a complete LCA (Life Cycle Analysis) on a digital-textile printing application using textile reactive inks and compared it with traditional screenprinting from cradle to gate, ie. when the finished textile print leaves the factory. The only other published report was an earlier Italian study, funded by the European Union (9) which was confined to savings in very low-production digital textile machines in the Como area of Italy. The Finnish study, published in 2014, is the most comprehensive in the public domain and gives considerable detail, showing the complexity of the input data required to obtain results that can be used in detailed cost-comparison spreadsheets. This study included cotton-production environmental data and, as expected, the major usage of water in an overall LCA study is in the cultivation of the cotton. However the report does detail the most relevant information for purchasing decision-
Figure 2: Total digital textile printing market
Source: WTIN Analytics, UK: Digital Textiles Market Study 2015
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makers in the textile printing arena: ie. The gate to gate area, where (in this case) woven cotton enters the factory, is printed (by either digital or screen), finished and then delivered to the garment manufacturer. The Finland report, the most comprehensive, did show a 69 per cent savings in water usage, even though the study was confined to reactive-dye textile printing, and 40 per cent lower CO2 equivalent greenhouse-gas emissions. By incorporating results of detailed environmental studies, derived from Life Cycle Analysis, into cost comparisons shown in Figure 3, digital textile printing become even more attractive. These environmental benefits, together with all the other advantages to the textile printer and retailer of digital textile printing – “fast fashion”, “mass customisation”, and significant savings for the retailer as a result of quick stock replenishment (10), make capitalpurchase decisions about digital textile printing machines, much more than a simple cost comparison of traditional versus digital.
References 1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainability 2. United Nations General Assembly (2005). 2005 World Summit Outcome, Resolution A/60/1, adopted by the General Assembly on 15 September 2005. Retrieved on: 28th January 2016: http://cmsdata.iucn.org/downloads/ iucn_future_of_sustanability.pdf 3. http://www.indiantextilemagazine.in/technology/ transparent-as-water-by-ms-printing-solutions-marksthe-start-of-a-new-industrial-age/ 4. https://sourcingjournalonline.com/dupont-digitalprinting-and-efi-reggiani-launch-new-digital-textilepigment-ink/ 5. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/ newsdetails.aspx?news_id=120736 6. http://www.esma-archive.com/downloads/day1track2/7%20pres%20-Christophe%20Bulliard%20 -Sensient%20-Industrial%20digital%20sublimation.pdf ; slide 18 7. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Life-cycle_assessment 8. M Kujanpaa, M Nors, “Environmental Performance of Future Digital Textile Printing “, available from http:// www.vtt.fi/inf/julkaisut/muut/2014/VTT-CR-04462-14.pdf 9. TIEPRINT – “Technology Transfer of low environmental impact ink jet printing for the production of textile products” TIEPRINT LIFE99 ENV/IT/000122 European Funded Project –Italy-GianLuca Brenna http://ec.europa. eu/environment/life/project/Projects/index. cfm?fuseaction=search.dspPage&n_proj_ id=1036&docType=pdf 10. J Provost, “Cost Benefits - Calculating the Advantages of Digital Textile Printing” Digital Textile Magazine, Issue 4, 2012, p9-13
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BUDGET 2016-17
$ EDJ RI PL[HG IRUWXQHV The overall proposed structure to revive rural consumption and rural development in the Budget is likely to give an indirect impetus to the textile industry.
B
BU
udgets have rarely brought complete cheers to the Indian textile industry in the past. Often, it is more of a matter of omission of the textile industry in the scheme of things. This time around, there are more brickbats than bouquets for the Finance Minister Arun Jaitley’s measures that directly or indirectly affect the textile industry. The most disgruntled segment belongs to the branded garments. Terming the move to impose 2 per cent central excise duty without Cenvat credit facility or 12.5 per cent central excise duty with Cenvat credit facility on branded ready-made garments and made-ups materials priced above Rs 1,000 as the most ‘deplorable’ step, garment manufacturers, who are mostly in the SSI sector are up in arms. Prices of branded garments are set to go up by 2 to 5 per cent, laments the industry. Says Rahul Mehta, President of Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI): “The very task of collecting this duty from the highly dispersed and mostly tiny units in the garment sector would be a formidable one for the government, especially when the rest of the value chain remains exempted and therefore traceability will be a serious issue. The large number of small and tiny units in the sector will also find it impossible to follow the
DG
ET
procedures involved. The result will be that evaders will prosper and compliant units will suffer. He added that the revenue for government from this decision will be negligible, whereas the problems that it would create for the industry will be huge.” However, the textile industry has hailed the Government’s attempt to strengthen the infrastructure and technology upgradation. “Reduction in customs duty on MMF would marginally improve the competitiveness of the MMF and their blended textile manufacturers in the country,” says M Senthilkumar, Chairman, The Southern
Even the Krishi Kalyan cess of 0.5 per cent will be an additional impact for most of the apparel players.” - Arun Ganapathy Chief Financial Officer, Spykar Lifestyles
www.indiantextilejournal.com
Some reliefs, major promises unfulfilled
T
he Union Budget 2016 was presented on March 29, 2016, sequentially third time by Finance Minister Arun Jaitley with a basic focus to revive rural consumption, rural development and uplift the infrastructure. Despite the global crisis, the Government has managed to keep the fiscal deficit of 3.5 per cent from 3.9 per cent with economical growth accelerated to 7.6 per cent in 2015-16. While, there were no big bang changes for the textile industry as such (in fact, the Finance Minister mentioned the textile industry only once in his speech), the overall proposed structure to revive rural consumption and rural development will give an indirect impetus to the textile industry also. Indian textile and clothing industry play a vital role in the Indian economy with contribution of about 14 per cent to total industrial production, 5.4 per cent to the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s GDP and 12.14 per cent share of total export earnings of the country in FY2014-15. Indian textile industry has been witnessing a robust growth and was estimated to be worth $97 billion (Rs 5,81,200 crore) in 2014, including both domestic consumption and exports, and is projected to grow at a CAGR of 9 per cent to reach $234 billion (Rs 14,01,300 crore) by 2024. The last year has witnessed a reduced growth in exports and it is expected that a good domestic economy will be able to compensate for the slow export growth. Many textile industrialists had anticipated and build up expectation with 2016 Union Budget such as cut in excise duty on man-made fibre and filament and reforms in labour laws in the budget for next financial year. The Indian textile sector has been pushing for free trade agreements with various countries for reduction in duties on Indian textile exports in respective countries, which could have provided higher market penetration. However, it should be noted that there were not major announcements for textile sector, as anticipated by the industry. The budget did make some announcements to impact the overall textile and apparel industry. The most significant among those was on the excise duty on ready-made garments. The budget highlighted that 60 per cent of retail sale price or the tariff value would be eligible for excise or countervailing duty (CVD) on ready-made garments and made-up articles of textiles. Earlier the tariff value for calculating excise or CVD (countervailing duty) was fixed at 30 per cent of retail sale price. This will make the garments more expensive in domestic retail and it has been taken up very negatively by garment manufacturers
- Amit Gugnani
who thrive on domestic retail demand. Further, the ready-made garment industry is burdened with existing excise duty of 2 per cent (without central value added tax credit) and 12.5 per cent (with central value added tax credit) on branded ready-made garments and made up articles of textiles of retail sale price of Rs 1,000 or more. This would affect in the increase in the cost of garments by 5-6 per cent to final consumers. It also raised excise duty on polyester staple fibre (PSF) and polyester filament yarn (PFY) to 12.5 per cent for manufacturers who claim ITC from the existing 6 per cent. On the customs duty front, the budget proposes that the basic customs duty on import of specified fabrics [for manufacture of textile garments for export] of value equivalent to 1 per cent of FOB value of exports in the preceding financial year being exempted subject to the specified conditions. The changes in customs and excise duty rates on certain inputs are to reduce costs and improve competitiveness of the textile industry. There has also been some relief for the synthetic industry in the new budget. The customs duty in the case of man-made fibres is reduced by 50 per cent from 5 per cent to 2.5 per cent and this could bring in the reduction of manufacturing cost of these fibres and yarns. This initiative has been welcomed by the industry as a whole. The key step however, is towards the new job creation. While in the budget, this has been put across for all sectors, it could benefit the new employment generation for the textile and apparel industry and specially apparel manufacturing, where the number of people employed per unit of investment is far higher than any other industry. This budget also provides a thrust to employment generation and skill development in various sectors giving focus to textile and clothing having vision to establish 1,500 multi-skill training institutes across the country. In his speech, the Finance Minister had set aside of Rs 1,700 crore for these initiatives. The government also proposes to absorb 8.33 per cent of EPF (employment provident fund) amount for a period of three years for incremental workers who are on the rolls of company. This should also promote on roll employment as compared to short term contractual employment. The additional deployment for skills development may also be used by the Indian T&A industry to improve skills and hence the productivity of the manufacturing plants. The author is Sr VP, Fashion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Apparel & Textiles at Technopak.
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 61
BUDGET 2016-17
Growth oriented budget: SIMA Chief
T
he Union Budget 2016-17 has come out with nine thrust areas to enable the country to achieve a sustained growth rate despite slowdown in the global economy. M Senthilkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has welcomed the nine pillars of growth trajectory budget marking at developing infrastructure, skill upgradation, agriculture development (doubling farmers income by 2022), health care, social development, education, etc. SIMA chief has also welcomed the nine point agenda to ensure compliance, ease of doing business, curbing black money, providing opportunity for declaring undisclosed income, etc. With regard to textiles, he thanked the Government for continuing optional Cenvat route on cotton textiles which was the main demand of the association. He has expressed his gratitude to the Prime Minister, Finance Minister and the Government for allocating Rs 1,480 crore for Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). He has stated that additional funds would be required to meet the pending subsidies since September 2014. Senthilkumar has also welcomed the reduction of basic customs duty on MMF from 5-2.5 per cent though the association has demanded for total withdrawal. He has stated that reduction in customs duty on MMF would marginally improve the competitiveness of the MMF and
India Mills’ Association (SIMA). Another move welcomed by the industry is the Government’s allocation of Rs 1480 crore for Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme. However, Senthilkumar cautions that additional funds would be required to meet the pending subsidies since September 2014. Amit Gugnani, Sr VP, Fashion – Apparel & Textiles at Technopak, said, “While, there were no big bang changes for the textile industry as such, the overall proposed structure to revive rural consumption and rural development will give an indirect impetus to the textile industry also.” Many textile industrialists had anticipated and build up expectation with 2016 Union Budget such as cut in excise duty on man-made fibre and filament and reforms in labour laws in the budget for next financial year. The Indian textile sector has been pushing for free trade agreements with various countries for reduction in duties on Indian textile exports in respective countries, which could have provided higher market penetration. However, it should be noted that there 62 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
their blended textile manufacturers in the country. Senthilkumar has opined that the Government could have avoided imposing 2 per cent central excise duty without Cenvat credit facility or 12.5 per cent central excise duty with Cenvat credit facility on branded ready-made garments and made-ups materials priced above Rs 1,000. He has said that as the Central government is expected to implement GST in short while, the Centre could have avoided levy of central excise duty on such items. He has stated that the tariff value of ready-made garments/ made-ups for the purpose of levying central excise duty has been increased from 30-60 per cent of the MRP which would marginally increase the cost for the consumers. However, SIMA chief has thanked the Government for exempting non-branded textile items below the value of Rs 1,000 from the purview of excise duty which would benefit the people below the poverty line. Senthilkumar while commenting on the various benefits extended for the skill development and job creation in the nation, has hailed EPF benefit of 8.33 per cent extended for the new entrants in the EPF. He has stated that this would significantly improve the compliance and also ensure social security of the employees. SIMA Chief has also appreciated the enhancement of limit of house rent allowance from Rs 24,000 to to Rs 60,000 which would benefit the salaried class.
While, there were no big bang changes for the textile industry, the proposed structure to revive rural development will give an indirect impetus to the textile industry also” - Amit Gugnani Sr VP, Fashion – Apparel & Textiles at Technopak
www.indiantextilejournal.com
were not major announcements for textile sector, as anticipated by the industry. The budget did make some announcements to impact the overall textile and apparel industry. The most significant among those was on the excise duty on ready-made garments. The budget highlighted that 60 per cent of retail sale price or the tariff value would be eligible for excise or countervailing duty (CVD) on readymade garments and made-up articles of textiles. Earlier the tariff value for calculating excise or CVD (countervailing duty) was fixed at 30 per cent of retail sale price. “This will make the garments more expensive in domestic retail and it has been taken up very negatively by garment manufacturers who thrive on domestic retail demand,” said Gugnani. He added, “Further, the ready-made garment industry is burdened with existing excise duty of 2 per cent (without central value added tax credit) and 12.5 per cent (with central value added tax credit) on branded readymade garments and made up articles of textiles of retail sale price of Rs 1,000 or more. This would affect in the increase in the cost of garments by 5-6 per cent to
Reduction in customs duty on MMF would marginally improve the competitiveness of the MMF in the country.” - M Senthilkumar Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) final consumers. It also raised excise duty on polyester staple fibre (PSF) and polyester filament yarn (PFY) to 12.5 per cent for manufacturers who claim ITC from the existing 6 per cent.”
Budget hits branded garments: CMAI
R
ahul Mehta, President of Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has expressed anguish at the way the Central Budget presented in Parliament today has hit the garments and made ups segment of the textiles industry. In a statement issued here he recalled that introduction of duty on finished products, while sustaining the exemption for upstream products, was an experiment implemented a few years back by the previous government and withdrawn subsequently when the disastrous consequences were understood. Repeating that experiment is the last thing that the industry needed, especially when the entire textiles and clothing industry in the country is already going through a crisis because of demand recession both in the domestic and export markets. Mehta pointed out that the very task of collecting this duty from the highly dispersed and mostly tiny units in the garment sector would be a formidable one for the government, especially when the rest of the value chain remains exempted and therefore traceability will be a serious issue. The large number of small and tiny units in the sector will also find it impossible to follow the procedures involved. The result will be that evaders will prosper and compliant units will suffer. He
added that the revenue for government from this decision will be negligible, whereas the problems that it would create for the industry will be huge. According to Mehta, the imposition is all the more surprising when the Finance Minister rightly emphasised in his speech the importance of job creation and the Make in India thrust. Textile is the highest employer after agriculture, and hence it is indeed ironical that new taxes are being levied on such an industry. As it is, the industry is going through a rough patch, with the onslaught of online companies with their high discounting, and the somewhat sluggish sentiments of the market. This imposition will worsen the situation. It is also crucial to note that the current period was seeing a lot of exporters, hoping to off set their slow down in global markets, making an entry in the domestic sector. Their efforts would again hit a roadblock. Mehta requested the Finance Minister to withdraw this duty and continue the optional duty regime that applies currently, until GST is introduced. He pointed out that once GST is introduced, the whole value chain will be covered by duty and traceability as well as compliance will improve tremendously and implementation problems will also ease considerably. The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 63
BUDGET 2016-17
Textile is the highest employer after agriculture, and hence it is indeed ironical that new taxes are being levied on such an industry.” - Rahul Mehta President of Clothing Manufacturers Association of India “On the customs duty front, the budget proposes that the basic customs duty on import of specified fabrics [for manufacture of textile garments for export] of value equivalent to 1 per cent of FOB value of exports in the preceding financial year being exempted subject to the specified conditions. The changes in customs and excise duty rates on certain inputs are to reduce costs and improve competitiveness of the textile industry,” said Gugnani. However, there has also been some relief for the synthetic industry in the new budget. The customs duty in the case of man-made fibres is reduced by 50 per cent from 5 per cent to 2.5 per cent and this could bring in the reduction of manufacturing cost of these fibres and yarns. This initiative has been welcomed by the industry as a whole. Prakash Awade, former Maharashtra textile minister, expressed unhappiness over the Budget. “We were expecting Jaitely to rescue the industry from recession.
The move of bringing SMEs in garment manufacturing under the ambit of indirect tax will hurt the industry” - Deepak Chiripal CEO, Nandan Denim Limited 64 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Instead, he chose to watch the situation. The powerloom modernisation programme started during the earlier Union government’s regime may receive a setback,” he said. “Prices of ready-made garments will go up in the range of 2 to 5 per cent depending upon the retail price of the product. We strongly condemn this move of the Finance Minister as it will hurt small and medium size industries, which are manufacturing garments for big brands,” said Ajit Lakra, Head – Textile, Federation of Industry and Commercial Organisation. Lakra is a Ludhiana-based garment maker. He said that rather than imposing tax, the government should have announced some liberal steps for the promotion of labour-intensive industry and employment generation. “There is hardly anything for the common textile industry in this Budget,” said Dhanpal Tare, chairman of Indian Powerloom Federation. “I am surprised that the Minister forgot the textile industry, which is the second largest employer in India. The industry was expecting something from the Budget as we were aiming for programmes such as Make In India. The export is declining for the last 11 months. We are worried. Under such circumstances, we were expecting incentives from the government to boost export,” he added. Tare said the textile industry provides more than 50 per cent employment to women and unskilled workers. “What the government has offered in the Budget is reduced basic customs duty on specified fibres and yarns. The duty has been reduced from 5 to 2.5 per cent, which will benefit ready made garment manufacturers, especially big brands,” Tare said. He added: “Indian technical textile contributes only 1 per cent to the world industry and the minister should have focused on it. The technical textile industry is dominated by China and Western countries. I think we have missed the bus again.” Dipali Goenka, Chief Executive Officer & Joint Managing Director, Welspun India, thinks that the Budget is rural focused with a lot of impetus on the infrastructure sector, which is good. “From the textile point of view, bringing 5 lakh crore acres of farms under organic farming is a positive move since internationally, there has been an increased demand of organic cotton. Another encouraging announcement is the empowerment of youth through skill development under the National Skill Development Mission and the setup of 1,500 multi skill training institutes. Also worth mentioning is the widened scope of duty drawback scheme that will include more products and countries which will strengthen the export sector. Overall, it is a forward looking budget with focus on infrastructure, employment and social welfare.”
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From the textile point of view, bringing 5 lakh crore acres of farms under organic farming is a positive move since internationally.” - Dipali Goenka CEO & Jt MD, Welspun India A Sakthivel, president of Tirupur Exporters’ Association, said this will give a boost to garment manufacturers in the State. Textile Industry has been demanding reduction in excise duty on man made fibres, which is retarding the growth of the industry. However, nothing has been done in this regard feels ML Jhunjhunwala, President, RSWM Ltd, a Bhilwara based textile company. “Similarly industry has been demanding abolition of 4 per cent SAD on import of man made fibres but that has also not been done. There is no loss of revenue to the government as hardly any imports are coming,” says Jhunjhunwala. Feeling completely disappointed with the Budget, Jhunjhunwala adds that excise duty imposed on branded garments and made ups will bring in a lot of complication to the industry as most of the garmenting is under unorganised sector.
He adds, “Cess on coal has been enhanced by Rs 200 per tonne, which will make the power generation costly. Mills are already reeling under high power cost. This cess will increase the cost of power further.” Sanjay Jain, Managing Director of T T Limited, feels that the budget isn’t really relevant for an industry unless specific duty is imposed. He looks forward to the textile policy, which is expected in April this year. In the textile policy, Jain wishes that export incentives to fabric and garment be extended to yarn, and labour laws to be liberalised. He also wishes TUF dues to be cleared immediately and all policies should be made long term and should be honoured once announced by the government. Echoing views, Sandeep Jain, Executive Director, Monte Carlo Fashion, also dubbed the levy of excise duty as a negative move for the garment industry. “When the consumer sentiments are already low, the levy of excide duty will further hit the demand for items priced more than Rs 1,000,” he further said. Arun Ganapathy, Chief Financial Officer, Spykar Lifestyles, is on the same page as most of them. He too thinks that the additional excise duty imposed with be an additional cost on apparel players. Even the Krishi Kalyan
The budget isn’t really relevant for an industry unless specific duty is imposed.” - Sanjay Jain Managing Director of T T Limited The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 65
BUDGET 2016-17 cess of 0.5 per cent will be an additional impact for most of the apparel players. However, Ganapathy pointed out some positives about the budget as well. He thinks that the non-litigious approach is a welcome move as it will reduce the time spent on tax appeals and litigations. The textile industry did not get its due in the Budget, feels Deepak Chiripal, Chief Executive Officer of Gujaratbased Nandan Denim Limited. “The move of bringing small and medium enterprises engaged in garment manufacturing under the ambit of indirect tax will hurt the industry”, he said. Chiripal even lauded some of the aspects of the Budget. According to him, “The Budget is a clear one with a focused growth trajectory for the next 3-4 years, broadly in line with the expectations of India Inc. The focus on agriculture, infrastructure, health and education will enhance the social fabric and contribute to equitable growth. Infrastructure is the main theme for this Budget and necessary allocation has been given for the rail, road, electricity, port development. Special emphasis and measure announced for ease of doing business, tax reforms promoting start-ups are steps in the right direction.” Vineet Agarwal, Managing Director, Transport Corporation of India, says: “The Budget has some excellent announcements that will help in developing the infrastructure of the country. The Government’s decision to focus on developing roads and highways would prove to be very beneficial for the growth of the logistics sector with the allotment of Rs 97,000 crore towards the sector.” He added: “We also welcome the decision of converting national highways and state highways
66 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Indian Govt’s vision of ‘Transforming India’ was very well articulated in the Budget.” - Shashi Kiran Shetty Founder & Chairman, Allcargo Logistics into national highway roads. This would prove to be a great enabler in moving cargo in high traffic density corridors efficiently. The proposed investment into railways, ports and inland waterways should help in the growth of multimodal logistics strengthening the country’s competitiveness.” Besides investment in infrastructure, the government should have also focused on the ‘soft’ logistics infrastructure to ensure smooth facilitation and transit of cargo like minimal paperwork through electronic data interface, seamless connectivity between multimodal transport and ease of taxation. Given the high growth in e-commerce and other consumption sectors, incentives to build world-class warehouses would have been far reaching,” adds Agarwal. Agarwal feels that the announcement of a uniform GST would have lead to pricing efficiency and enormous savings in terms of time and money for delivery of goods and services. Shashi Kiran Shetty, Founder & Chairman, Allcargo Logistics, feels that the Indian Government’s vision of ‘Transforming India’ was very well articulated in the Budget. “On one hand the measures announced in agriculture, rural and healthcare sectors will increase the confidence of rural India while on the other financial and tax reforms will increase the confidence of investors. Besides, the Government’s focus on skill development, job creation, infrastructure development and higher education will help create more job opportunities,” he avers. “From a common man’s perspective too, the budget has presented some good news. Measures such as increase in HRA and lesser tax burden on individuals with income less than Rs 5 lakh will surely be welcomed. The Government’s impetus on increasing the efficiency and modernising of ports and improving the road infrastructure will definitely provide a fillip to our sector. Overall this is a realistic budget with more focus on rural and infrastructure development while keeping the fiscal deficit in check,” adds Shetty.
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 67
LOOKING AHEAD: FY 2016-17
3RVLWLYH VLJQV OLPLWHG Cotton to remain stable, MMF looks at a lacklustre year, and export to stay subdued: An Ind-Ra Report reveals some of the grey areas, possibilities and challenges facing the Indian textile industry in the FY 2016-17.
A
n India Ratings and Research (Ind-Ra) report has maintained a stable outlook for cotton textiles for FY16-FY17. This will be led by a marginal expansion in the cotton space on the back of lower cotton prices, even as revenue growth will be slower, mirroring lower sales realisations. Ind-Ra expects most of the revenue growth to come from higher production efficiency rather than significant capacity additions. However, Ind-Ra continues to maintain a negative outlook on synthetic textiles for FY17 on continuing overcapacity, falling capacity utilisations, dumping from China, and continuously falling raw material prices (led by crude prices) which could translate into inventory losses. Revenue growth in FY17 is likely to be driven by enhanced domestic consumption of fabrics, apparels and home textiles in view of lowering interest rates, rising discretionary income, (Ind-Raâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s GDP growth projection for FY17 is 7.9 per cent), favourable demographics and moderating inflation. The stressed rural economy is however a dampener for demand in FY17. The value-added textile segment continues to witness stable demand despite the macroeconomic data not seeming to be encouraging. Ind-Ra has also maintained a stable rating outlook for textile companies, as working capital optimisation
and low capex appetite will lead to debt containment. This combined with a margin improvement will drive the improvement in credit metrics in FY16-FY17. Improved credit metrics: The interest cover for textile companies improved in 1H16 and is likely to improve further in FY17 on the back of debt containment, working capital optimisation and fiscal incentives. Backward integration and a value-added product mix are helping more established players to improve their operating performance in the present challenging operating environment. Export challenges: Ind-Ra believes that the export performance will be subdued over FY17 due to the Chinese demand slowdown, absence of free-trade agreements with key end-markets of the US and Europe, and competitive pricing pressure. Yuan depreciation could emerge as a key concern for textile exporters as India and China cater to common large markets of the US and Europe. Ind-Ra believes that level-playing field
QUICK BYTES f Lower input prices drive margin expansion f Slower capex cycle supports credit metrics f Overcapacity and inventory losses in polyester f Uncertainty from China policy and production strategy
68 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
for India will also weaken led by competitors such as Vietnam gaining duty-free access to the US and Europe, although their level of backward integration to fulfill the eligibility requirement under the trade agreement would be important. Investment impetus from ATUFS: The amended textile scheme Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS ) cleared by the Cabinet Committee of Economic Affairs is likely to encourage fresh investments into the sector, which is sluggish at present. However, the total benefit to textile companies is likely to reduce due to the change in the nature and quantum of subsidy, and target segment for benefits under the scheme. The subsidy will be largely capital based, a change from the earlier interest and capital base. Also, the possibility of large-scale greenfield capex remains low in FY17.
Outlook sensitivities Prospects of a positive outlook are limited for FY17. Fundamental issues of taxation and duty structure in synthetic textiles, need for modernisation in the weaving/ processing sector, and expansion of scale need to be addressed in the long run. Global factors: A cotton/yarn price crash led by uncertainty from China on buying/stocking of cotton/yarn is a key risk, and could lead the outlook revision to negative for cotton textiles. Uncertainty stemming from Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s policy and production strategy remains a threat. Stability in crude oil prices is critical for a revision of the outlook on synthetic textiles to stable. Demand drivers: Recovery of export demand and sustenance of domestic demand are key sensitivities for textile and apparels.
Key issues Input prices to remain range-bound: Drivers for Indian cotton prices point towards a range bound movement in FY17. This is despite the cotton acreage coming down, as yields are likely to improve leading to similar production levels as previous yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Prices will be weighed down by a lower export demand from China, a key consumer of Indian cotton and cotton yarn. As China shifts from price-based support to income-based support (subsidy) for its cotton growers, the demand for lower cost cotton and yarn imports into China becomes lower. With lower domestic cost of cotton, Chinese mills could become competitive again, thereby lowering reliance on imported yarn. Export demand for superior and finer counts of yarn is likely to be stable. Significant uncertainty remains about how China will deal with its large accumulated stocks, but it will lead to lower imports by China in the medium term, and lower closing stocks. The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 69
LOOKING AHEAD: FY 2016-17 Spinning lower revenue growth, higher margins: Ind-Ra has analysed the interim results of the top 10 listed cotton yarn spinners. In 1H16, cotton yarn spinners reported an average revenue growth of 4.9 per cent, which is largely reflective of lower yarn pricing and moderate volume growth. However, as cotton prices had declined by a higher rate than the yarn prices, most of the spinners reported a margin expansion in 1H16, which is likely to continue in FY17. The top 10 cotton yarn spinners reported an average 178 bp YoY. Ind-Ra assumes various scenarios for FY17 revenue growth using a range of volume growth of 3 to 7 per cent coupled with a product pricing range of negative 1 to 4 per cent, reflective of the lower price outlook for fibres. The base case revenue growth for yarn manufacturers comes at 7 per cent for FY17. Ind-Ra expects most of the revenue growth to come from a higher production efficiency rather than significant capacity additions in the backdrop of a demand slowdown. Yarn pricing would also remain under pressure with lower input prices. A study of synthetic and blended yarn spinners shows average revenue of growth of about 1.3 per cent YoY for 1H16, while an expansion in average EBITDA margin by 115bp to 12.1 per cent . The interest cover also expanded to 3x in 1H16 from 2.6x in 1H15.
grew 8.1 per cent YoY during April-November 2015 to $3.39 billion. Of this, synthetic yarn growth was flat, fabrics grew by 9.2 per cent and made ups grew sharply by 21 per cent. Globally, there is a higher adoption of synthetic textiles, but in India the growth has been slow as the government policy is skewed towards natural fibres. Synthetic fibres are subject to 12 per cent excise duty whereas cotton and its downstream products are subject to zero excise duty. Cotton being an agri-commodity, the prices are subject to minimum support prices, whereas there is no protection for polyester fibre prices. There is a lower capacity utilisation rate in synthetic textiles than cotton textiles, as demand is lower. Although the adoption of synthetic and blended garments is picking up which will drive the consumption in the medium term, central and state taxation at fibre level are key challenges for synthetic textile manufacturers. Polarised operating performance: The value-added textile segment continues to witness stable demand despite the macroeconomic data not seeming to be encouraging. The large textile companies focused on scale, value addition and product diversification therefore continue to report sound operating performance. However, smaller units struggle with issues such as non-compliance with pollution norms leading to frequent shutdowns, labour attrition, lack of modernisation and thus lower competitiveness and margins.
Slowdown in synthetic textiles: Capacity utilisation in the polyester filament yarn segment was low at 55 per cent in FY15, was 50.7 per cent in 1H16 (annualised) and is likely to remain so in FY17. Exports of Indian manmade textiles
Comparison of Amended Scheme (ATUFS) with Earlier Scheme (RR-TUFS) Capital Subsidy RR TUFS (%)
Interest subsidya (%)
Capital subsidy ATUFS
Interest subsidy ATUFS
Spinning â&#x20AC;&#x201C; standalone units
Nil
2
10% subject to ceiling of INR200m over a period of five years
Nil
Spinning units with forward integration
Nil
5
10% subject to ceiling of INR200m over a period of five years
Nil
Weaving (brand new shuttle less looms)
15
6% for brand new shuttle less looms; 2% for second hand looms 10% subject to ceiling of INR200m over a period of five years
Nil
Processing
10
5
10% subject to ceiling of INR200m over a period of five years
Nil
Garmenting & technical textiles
10
5
15% subject to ceiling of INR300m over a period of five years
Nil
a Interest reimbursement was for a period of seven years including two years of moratorium/implementation Source: CCEA, Ministry of Textiles
70 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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Lower benefit under ATUFS, lower greenfield capex expectation: In a significant departure, ATUFS stipulates only a capital subsidy instead of the interest cum capital subsidy prevalent under the earlier version of TUFS. A capital subsidy of 10-15 per cent will replace the capital (0-15 per cent) cum interest subsidy (2-6 per cent), which could be a setback for processors and weavers who avail both capital and interest subsidy.
will largely be self-reliant, while small and medium enterprises will be provided greater support. This is a setback for the large-sized projects as it will reduce the subsidy benefit substantially for fresh capex by larger players. While capping will help distribute the subsidy among a larger number of players, there is a possibility of break-up of larger projects into different entities to avail benefit under the scheme.
The garmenting segment will receive a higher subsidy than other segments, while the overall quantum of subsidy appears to have reduced. Also, the government has preferred to channelise the benefits of the scheme towards small to mid-sized enterprises instead of large companies by capping the subsidy amount. This scheme is also positive for the existing projects which were awaiting the release of subsidy under the earlier versions.
Impact of global trade agreements: India is likely to lose competitive advantage against peers such as Vietnam, which have gained duty-free access to Europe, while Indian exporters have to pay a duty of 9.6 per cent. In the longer term, the passage of trans-pacific partnership (TPP) could also weaken competitive positioning as peers such as Vietnam could gain zero duty access to 12 TPP countries including the US, Canada and Japan, whereas Indian companies exports would be subject to 15-50 per cent duty. Partial protection for Indian textile exporters would come from the adherence to the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;yarn-forwardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rule in the pact. Textile and garments produced from fabric made by a TPP nation will qualify for duty-free status. Lack of sufficient capacities of yarn/fabric may however constrain member countries. This could also trigger Indian and Chinese textile companies to set up backward integration facilities in TPP countries such as Vietnam.
However, the capital subsidy would be provided upfront as against the interest subsidy which is accrued over the tenor of the loan. Hence, the net present value of interest reimbursement for future years would need to be compared to the upfront capital subsidy amount to assess the real benefit under the new scheme. According to the amended scheme, the subsidy amount is capped, which was not the case earlier. The capping of the subsidy implies that larger projects
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The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 71
LOOKING AHEAD: FY 2016-17 The build-up of capacities may happen gradually and in the short-term the market share of Indian exporters is likely to decline. A double whammy for India will be the case when these countries set up their own backward integration facilities for yarn and fabric, which will hurt India’s exports of yarn and fabric to these countries, and bring down India’s share in textile exports. Among Asian peers Vietnam would be a key beneficiary of TPP, while India, China, and Bangladesh would be negatively impacted. Vietnam is the secondlargest garment exporter in the world with garment exports worth $24 billion in 2014, and would thus be able to increase its textiles export market share strongly to TPP countries by being able to sell at zero duty. However, India has an edge in value-added garmenting over China and other Asian peers, which should remain partly insulated due to the lack of readily available similar capabilities in TPP countries. China which houses 40 per cent of the global apparel capacity ($165 billion exports) is not a part of TPP, which is a breather for India. Also, among TPP countries, Vietnam is the only key manufacturer of garments, hence the capacity to serve the entire demand will be limited. The TPP agreement concluded in October 2015 is a US-led trade agreement between 12 countries comprising the US, Australia, Canada, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, Peru, Vietnam, Chile, Brunei, Singapore and New Zealand. The objective of the agreement is to promote the domestic industry and gain duty-free access to member nations. Garmenting is already a competitive business, with low entry barriers, rising wage rates and frequent fluctuations in input prices. Sluggish exports: The textile demand has slowed from China while the US and Europe are doing better. There are imbalances in the market rather than recessionary pressures, revolving around the changing duty levies and import-export policies of various
countries, and forex fluctuations impacting currency competitiveness. India is gaining prominence in the value-added segment (hand embroidered, embellished) although the pricing power has not changed and remains under pressure of large retailers. Garments generate lower EBITDA margin than fabrics and yarn but higher asset turnover. Absence of free trade agreements with key export destinations – the US, Europe and Canada are impediments to the growth of apparel exports. Growth is likely to remain largely volume-led while realisations will continue to exhibit commodity and competitive pricing pressure. For April-November 2015, excluding raw cotton the textile exports declined 2 per cent YoY to $23.5 billion. However in rupee terms, the textile exports grew 4 per cent YoY due to rupee depreciation vs. USD (AprilNovember 2015 INR/USD: 64.4; April-November: 60.5). Of this pie, apparel exports accounted for 47 per cent of total textile exports, and have been growing at a faster rate of 2 per cent in USD terms and 8 per cent in INR terms. This was despite the sharp depreciation in the value of euro (Europe accounts for 40 per cent of India’s textile exports) and lower realisations as exporters passed on the decline in raw material prices to customers.
Credit profile remains stable Indian textile companies are focusing on internal efficiencies and value-added offerings to drive margin growth. The working capital borrowings are likely to reduce with the lower inventory holding period, which would also bring down the inventory carrying costs and risks. Most of the larger groups such as Vardhman Textiles Limited, Sutlej Textiles and Industries Limited (IND AA-/Stable), RSWM Limited (IND A+/Stable) have completed their capex cycle over FY12-FY15 and no large greenfield expansion
Yuan Devaluation Emerging as a Concern Movements in average monthly bid rates INR/USD
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72 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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Global economic conditions signal slowdown
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hanks to the growth of new markets in developed countries and increasing international trade the global textile industry continues to grow, generating sales of approximately $750 billion during 2015, a growth of over 5 per cent for the year. By 2019 the value of the global textile industry is expected to reach values of $910 billion, although weakening global economic conditions may slow down this growth. The textile industry is highly dependent on economic factors such as global economic growth and currency variations. Factors influencing the production line, such as energy costs and wages, also have an impact on costs. The uncertainty about global growth forecasts will provide some challenges ahead, according to a World Textile Outlook 2016, published by World Textile Information Network Ltd. Some of the factors which will impact the growth of textile industry globally are: energy costs, wages, and environ regulations.
Fibres Global cotton prices remained stable for most of the year. After China scrapped its controversial stockpiling programme, global cotton prices stayed within a tight range during 2015. The Cotlook A Index, which gauges the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cotton market, barely changed last year, having reached its lowest level on 26 January (65.3 cents per pound) and highest on July 1 (74.8 cents per pound).
is anticipated in FY17. However, some companies could go for forward or backward integration to protect their margins. Working capital prudence has taken over speculative inventory gains on cotton and hedging of commodity and forex risks is taking priority for most exporters. However, margin pressure could perpetuate for smaller players which buy from the open market or in smaller quantities and keep forex positions unhedged. In addition to the central government schemes, various state governments have announced new textile policies in recent years, to encourage industry.
The Indian cotton spot rate remained flat, despite support from the government, while prices in Pakistan were firm due to tight supply. Vietnam has emerged as a spotlight of world cotton trading, with the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cotton yarn sector booming, boosted by robust demand from China. Historically low man-made fibre (MMF) values in China: The plunging oil price dragged down MMF values to an historic low in China, which contributes at least 40 per cent of global production. Viscose producers enjoyed hefty profits between March and November, while their quotations soared 3,350 Yuan, or 30 per cent, to 14,600 Yuan per tonne.
Fabrics Fabric prices have increased significantly due to quality improvements of dyeing materials. Cotton fabric sales encountered head winds, as more and more garment manufacturers switched to cheaper MMF fabrics. Although raw material costs slumped in 2015, China fabric prices still increased, indicating that consumers had to pay more for the surging costs of dyeing processes, as mills use more quality dyeing materials to reduce potential environmental hazards. Global exports of knitted fabric grew by 3 per cent in 2014. The global value of knitted and crocheted fabrics exported in 2014 was $33.7 billion, a marginal increase from 2013. Global exports in this sector were worth $238.4 billion.
in FY14 and average cash flow from operations increased to Rs 2.7 billion from Rs 2 billion. Total debt for the top cotton yarn spinners reduced in FY15 to Rs 75 billion from Rs 85 billion in FY14, a reflection of working capital optimisation and lower capex. However, financial leverage for the top 10 spinners increased to 3.1x in FY15 from 2.7 times in FY14.
2015 Review
For synthetic and blended yarn manufacturers (top six listed players), the revenue growth was lower at 2 per cent YoY in FY15, EBITDA declined by 7 per cent, and average EBITDA margins declined to 12.2 per cent from 13.6 per cent in FY14. The debt was flat at Rs 38 billion, and average leverage slightly increased to 3.6 times in FY15 from 3.3 times in FY14.
FY15 was a year of normalisation for textile companies, from FY14 which was exceptionally good in terms of high Chinese demand. Revenues of the top 10 cotton spinners grew 7 per cent YoY, a reflection of higher volumes, as realisations lowered from FY14 whereas the EBITDA fell 12.6 per cent YoY. Average EBITDA margins for cotton yarn spinners also corrected to 15.7 per cent in FY15 from 18.8 per cent
For large listed fabrics/garment players FY15, revenues grew 12 per cent YoY, whereas EBITDA grew 11.8 per cent YoY, hence EBITDA margins were stable at 14.9 per cent, a reflection of higher value addition, branding benefit and pricing power. Average cash flow from operations increased 30.7 per cent YoY to Rs 5 billion in FY15. Financial leverage remained stable at 3.4 times in FY15. The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 73
EVENT REPORT
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From L-R: Bharat Shah, Founder and Chairman, Ekaya Shah Narayan Das & Co; Gautam Nair, MD, Matrix Clothing; Sudhir Dhingra, CMD, Orient Craft; RCM Reddy, CMD, IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative; Gustaf Asp, MD, Hennes and Mauritiz India (H&M); Calvin Woolley, Category Head – Textiles, IKEA India; Deepika Rana, ED and Country Head (India), Li & Fung; and Jagadish Hinduja, Chairman, Gokaldas Images Pvt Ltd.
A
bout $300 billion textile exports by 2025 to create 35 million additional jobs, and the new Textile Policy to realise these goals before this April-end: The Union Textiles Minister, Sanntosh Gangwar, made no bones about neither the figure nor the time, when he stated this to an august crowd of over 200 people, mostly from the textile industry at a seminar on textiles held on the last day of the Make in India Week programme at the MMRDA Grounds in BKC, Mumbai. The seminar drew stalwarts from the cream of textile industry including Gautam Singhania, Managing Director, Raymond; K K Maheshwari, Managing Director, Grasim Industries; BK Goenka, Chairman, Welspun Group; and Naishadh Parikh, Director, Arvind Ltd. Apart from the Minister, the Union Government was represented by Rashmi Verma, Textiles Secretary and Kavita Gupta, Textiles Commissioner. BK Goenka in his opening theme address recalled the time when the Prime Minister, Narendra Modi was the Chief Minister of Gujarat. “That was the time, Gujarat had the best textile policy and it has all started now for the nation to repeat that success with Modiji’s Make in India
74 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Programme. Other states have followed the Gujarat initiative. The mantra that the PM wanted the textile industry to follow is ‘four Fs’, that is from farm to factory, from factory to fashion and from fashion to foreign,” he said. Said Goenka: “India is now the second largest force in textiles, but the challenges are mounting and we cannot afford to have complacency. But now is the time. China is facing problems – rising
Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India.
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From L-R: Naishadh Parikh, Director, Arvind Ltd; Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India; Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India; and BK Goenka, Chairman, Welspun Group.
From L-R: Pramod Khosla, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association and CEO, Khosla Profil Pvt Ltd; KK Maheshwari, MD, Grasim Industries Ltd; Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Gautam Singhania, MD, Raymond; and Amit Uplenchwar, CEO – SEZ, Adani Ports and Special Economic Zone Ltd, and Chairman, Mundra SEZ Textile & Apparel Park (MITAP).
labour and energy costs. The Indian textile industry is contributing to $110 billion to the GDP, with the domestic production at $70 billion and export at $40 billion. Despite all these impressive numbers, we still have a long way to go.” He spoke about the challenges like TPP, and FTAs and meeting competition from countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh.
According to Rashmi Verma, since we have been exporting a lot of raw materials like cotton, the value in the value chain continues to diminish, and ultimately blunting the competitive edge. Talking about the barriers to growth, she categorically said that India’s productivity is pretty low in textiles. Verma spoke about the boost in investment before 2014 and also the fall in investment
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 75
EVENT REPORT
(Right) Gautam Singhania, MD, Raymond, greeting Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India.
(Left) Rajesh Mandawewala, MD, Welspun, along with (Extreme Right) RK Dalmia, Chairman, Texprocil.
after 2014. “Mainly because of this, we have amended the TUFS, and now we hope the investment will pick up,” she said. Explaining in details all the measures taken by the Government to give a shot in the arm to textile industry, the Textiles Secretary emphasised the importance of investing in new areas like technical textiles. Naishadh Parik, Director of Arvind Ltd, gave the concluding remarks and vote of thanks. This was followed by the plenary Session, of which Dr Kavita Gupta was the Chairperson. There were four interesting presentations: Success Story of the Indian Textile and Apparel Industry by
76 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Gautam Hari Singhania, CMD, Raymond Group; India’s Opportunities in Man Made Fiber Textiles by KK Maheshwari, Managing Director, Grasim Industries Ltd; Technical Textiles: Growth Potential and Investment Opportunities by Pramod Khosla, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association and Chief Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India. Executive Officer, Khosla Profil Pvt Ltd; Potential Opportunities in Technical Textile Park by Amit Uplenchwar, CEO – SEZ, Adani Ports and Special Economic Zone Ltd, and Chairman, Mundra SEZ Textile & Apparel Park. The session portrayed the competitiveness of Indian textile and apparel industry, highlighted the potential opportunities in emerging sectors in the industry such as technical textiles, investment opportunities in textile clusters/integrated textiles park and discuss success stories of private sector in India. The final event of the four-hour long seminar was a panel discussion on the theme “India as a major sourcing hub for garments and home textiles”, with RCM Reddy, Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer, IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative as the session moderator. The participants were: Gautam Nair, Managing Director, Matrix Clothing; Sudhir Dhingra, Chairman and Managing Director, Orient Craft Limited; Deepika Rana, Executive Director and Country Head (India), Li & Fung Limited; Calvin Woolley, Category Head – Textiles, IKEA India; Gustaf Asp, Managing Director, Hennes and Mauritiz India (H&M); Jagadish Hinduja, Chairman, Gokaldas Images Pvt Ltd; Bharat Shah, Founder and Chairman, Ekaya Shah Narayan Das & Co.
SPECIAL FOCUS: TECHNOTEX 2016
JURZWK IRUHFDVW IRU WHFKQLFDO WH[WLOHV LQ ,QGLD While the global market size of the TT sector was estimated to be $104,000 million in 2010, this sector is still in nascent stages in India.
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echnical textiles are welfare textiles used for their diverse and multifunctional properties. TT offer several advantages in their functional aspects for improving health and safety, cost effectiveness, and durability and strength of textile material. These performance-enhancement products are applicable in the protective clothing, agriculture, medical, infrastructure development, automotive, aerospace, sports, and packaging sectors. While the global market size of the TT sector was estimated to be $104,000 million in 2010, this sector is still in nascent stages in India. Based on past trends of growth and estimated end user segment growth, the Working Group on TT for 12th FYP projected the market size to reach $28,727 million by 2016-17 at a year-on-year growth rate of 20 per cent during 12th FYP. A report from Wazir Advisors reveals that the TT sector is growing at a very fast pace in India. As per the data of the Ministry of Textiles, the Government of India, the TT
Major areas of concerns are: Raw material availability, lack of standards for TT products, lack of domestic machinery manufacturers, etc. - Dr Anup Rakshit ED of Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA)
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SWOT analysis STRENGTHS Â&#x2021; 7H[WLOH LQGXVWU\ KDV D VWURQJ EDVH LQ WHUPV RI UDZ PDWHULDOV VNLOOHG PDQSRZHU ORZ ZDJHV DQG HQWUHSUHQHXULDO WDOHQW ZKLFK can be leveraged to boost the TT sector. Â&#x2021; 3UHVHQFH RI 7H[WLOH 5HVHDUFK $VVRFLDWLRQV 75$ ZLWK VWURQJ H[SHUWLVH LQ 77 FDQ FRQWULEXWH WR 5 ' Â&#x2021; 3URDFWLYH DSSURDFK IURP WKH JRYHUQPHQW IRU ERRVWLQJ 77 VHFWRU LQYHVWPHQW WKURXJK YDULRXV VXSSRUW VFKHPHV Â&#x2021; 3UHVHQFH RI ,,76 7H[WLOHV ,QVWLWXWHV DQG HLJKW &2(V L H *HRWHFK %75$ $JURWHFK 6$60,5$ 0HGLWHFK 6,75$ 3URWHFK 1,75$ &RPSRVLWH $7,5$ 1RQ :RYHQ '.7( ,QGXWHFK 36* &ROOHJH DQG 6SRUWHFK
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THREATS WEAKNESSES Â&#x2021; 'HSHQGHQFH RQ LPSRUW RI WHFKQRORJ\ DQG PDFKLQHU\ IRU PRVW Â&#x2021; &KHDS LPSRUWV RI 77 LWHPV IURP FRXQWULHV OLNH &KLQD Â&#x2021; $EVHQFH RI )7$V ZLWK (8 DQG 86$ RI WKH KLJK HQG 77 SURGXFWV Â&#x2021; $YDLODEOH UHVRXUFHV KDYH QRW EHHQ DXJPHQWHG DQG XSGDWHG ZLWK changing trends in application of TT. Â&#x2021; 1RQ DYDLODELOLW\ RI VNLOOHG PDQSRZHU VSHFLILFDOO\ WUDLQHG IRU 77 Â&#x2021; 3URGXFWLRQ FDSDFLW\ LV SULPDULO\ IRFXVHG RQ FRPPRGLW\ SURGXFWV DQG LV QRW YHU\ 5 ' LQWHQVLYH Â&#x2021; /DFN RI H[SHUW FRQVXOWDQWV IRU 77 IRU JXLGLQJ HQWUHSUHQHXUV Â&#x2021; $EVHQFH RI UHJXODWRU\ PHDVXUHV IRU XVDJH RI 77 Â&#x2021; /DFN RI VXSSRUW IRU H[SRUW SURPRWLRQDO DFWLYLWLHV Â&#x2021; /DFN RI VXSSRUW IRU FRQWUDFW 5 ' Â&#x2021; 1RQ DYDLODELOLW\ RI LQGLJHQRXV KLJK SHUIRUPDQFH VSHFLDOLW\ ILEUHV IRU PDQXIDFWXUH RI 77
market of India increased from Rs 70,151 crore in 2012-13 to become Rs 109,659 crore in 2014-15, registering a CAGR of 25 per cent. This works out to be about 11 per cent of the global TT market. As per the future growth estimates, the Indian TT market is further expected to grow at a CAGR of 20 per cent and reach become Rs 158,540 crore by 2016-17. Dr Anup Rakshit, ED of Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA), â&#x20AC;&#x153;Indian TT market segments are divided into 12 segments in which mobiltech, packtech, clothtech and hometech have the major share in the market. Domestic consumption has seen high growth rate of over 15 per cent per annum in the segments of mobiltech, geotech and indutech while packtech, sportech, meditech and buildtech segments grew at rate of more than 10 per cent per annum. There are couple of products within each segment which grew even more than 20 per cent. These above-mentioned segments will drive the growth in future.â&#x20AC;? The industry also faces a number of challenges. Says Dr Rakshit: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Major areas of concerns are: Raw material availability, lack of standards for TT products, lack of domestic TT machinery manufacturers, research and development capability, lack of awareness about TT products to the user industries, lack of skilled manpower, etc.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;TT industry in India is lagging in appropriate
A.T.E. is the only company that covers all the verticals in TT.â&#x20AC;? - GV Aras Director of A.T.E. Enterprises technology to produce world-standard products because they have to depend on imported technology and machinery to manufacture such products. Lack of domestic TT machinery manufacturers, R&D capability, innovation drive in the industry are the major reasons for it. However, under the TMTT scheme, the Ministry of Textiles is encouraging and funding R&D activities. Industry should also come forward and give more focus on the product development and marketing activities,â&#x20AC;? he adds. According to GV Aras, Director of A.T.E. Enterprises, â&#x20AC;&#x153;A.T.E. is the only company that covers all the verticals in TT. We are in woven, circular & warp knitting, and nonwoven for TT. In nonwoven, we cover spunbond, The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 81
SPECIAL FOCUS: TECHNOTEX 2016
Global TT output to touch 40 mn t by 2020
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echnical Textiles account for around 27 per cent of all textiles production by volume. TT produces around 30 million tonnes of textiles per year and this is forecast to grow to around 40 mn t by 2020, generating total global revenues of over $190 billion compared to a value of approximately $140 billion in 2014. The market continues to grow strongly and is forecast to see a CAGR of between 3-6 per cent, depending on the application area. Because of the high margins available in the TT market it is an attractive area for companies to enter, particularly given the rate of innovation. There are new materials and new applications emerging on an ongoing basis, which is in part being funded by large research grants from IGOs such as the EU Horizon 2025 project. Automotive and medical are the fastest expanding applications. Of the 12 different applications within TT, automotive and medical are the fastest expanding sectors. It is estimated that there are already 26 kg of textiles used within the average vehicle, while the use of textiles in the healthcare sector is growing both in volume and usage terms. This is thanks to favourable global trends such as the ageing society and the rise of obesity, as well as the rising expenditure on healthcare in the majority of economies. New manufacturing processes and technologies are emerging in the sector Constant innovation is the hallmark of TT, which includes elements across the whole supply chain; recent developments include: 3D printing combines a variety of components in a fixed structure. Weaving is another area of development which is likely to find a key use in construction New fibres based on natural sources are in development, for example milk fibres There are also interesting developments in combining a mixture of natural fibres such as spider silk in goat’s milk to produce new materials The disposal of TT is also an area for development, for example washable super absorbent fabric or water soluble ostomy bags high growth TT Medical textiles is a fast growing market, with an expected annual growth of 4-5 per cent from 2015 to 2020. A key driver of this market is growing expenditure
on healthcare globally, as well as increasingly sophisticated healthcare processes in more developed economies. Sportswear is a market that is benefiting from the growth in lei sure time globally thanks to the growth in middle class lifestyles. Spending on leisure products like sportswear is growing at double digit rates in some countries. At the same time consumers in developed economies are looking for more innovative high-tech products, providing industry growth on two fronts. One of the biggest markets for protective-wear is chemicals industry. This market is fast growing in the Asia-Pacific region. Overall use of protective-wear is also growing, as is innovation as companies strive to make heavy duty clothing both protective and comfortable to wear Automotive and construction account for a 25 per cent share of nonwovens world production. In the automotive sector, an increasing number of parts (40 in total) are made with nonwovens, owing to their lightweight, sustainable, versatile and durable properties. These fabrics are low cost and easily mouldable, while enhancing fuel economy and lowering carbon dioxide emissions. Similarly, weight reduction and sustainability also drive the use of nonwovens in the building and construction sector. The geo-synthetics market is mainly driven by government regulations, particularly in Asia Pacific, which is seeing the fastest growth in this segment. Testing procedures, in regards to fire and chemical protection, are gaining importance. New technologies are being introduced in the industry. A term that has underlined the nonwovens market this year is process optimisation, a costly but necessary consideration in order for the industry to remain competitive. Therefore, high-speed and high-quality equipment is being installed in many manufacturers’ facilities. Polypropylene spunbonded and spunmelt nonwoven technology is currently the largest of all the technologies used in the manufacture of global nonwovens. This largely serves the hygiene market, with applications also found in wipes, filtration and home furnishings. However, the cost of polypropylene and other raw materials is rising, along with energy costs, influencing profitability around the world. This has led to producer consolidation and restructuring. Looking to 2016, the entire nonwovens industry is being encouraged to be more innovative.
The geo-synthetics market is mainly driven by government regulations....
82 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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spunlace, needle-punching and all. In processing also, which is very important, TT need proper functional treatments. For instance, coating and lamination. We provide one-window solutions for any TT project. We work with very advanced technology providers from Europe, who have long experience.” Speaking about how A.T.E. Enterprises entered into the field of TT, GV Aras said, “A.T.E. really had been in the field of TT for a very long time. It was in 90s A.T.E. made its entry. But that time, business in TT was not much at all. It was in paper felts that we began with for some companies. That time this nonwoven concept was not prevalent. Really speaking, industry started talking about TT only about 10 years back. Only after infrastructure started picking up in India, TT like geotextiles and geosynthetics started getting attention. This happened only four years ago and even after these years, geotextiles has not attained its potential because there is no mandatory norms to promote it like in foreign countries. If this is done by the Government, geotextiles demand has the potential to go up 10 times.” He added, “In India, the concept of disposables is having a very slow growth, and hence its potential is still untapped. But because export scope for wipes is very good, there has been some activities in this area. Another area which is showing signs of growing fast is filtration. This filtration field’s growth will continue since many companies have invested in this. Some growth has happened in spunbond, which is a cheap material. This is a low margin business and only small industries are involved and with Chinese machines, which are cheaper. Medical textiles is another area expected to grow faster since disposables are getting promoted in hospitals, hotels, etc. Nonwoven is packaging is becoming popular because it it is light and cheap material. Unless the consumption of TT gets a boost, it will be a long way for this industry. Other fields showing promise are automotive textiles and protective textiles.” Nitin Bavkar, Director, DORNIER Machinery India Pvt Ltd, says, “In TT, most people say that India is more or less in nascent stage, but we do have many manufacturers who are weaving different types of TT on Dornier machines. To name a few: Arvind Ltd started a separate division for TT, they had six DORNIER machines. Now, Arvind has about 32 DORNIER machines, producing a variety of fabrics. Currently, they are concentrating on filter and belting fabrics. ATIRA is having 3 new DORNIER rapier machines in their incubation center which are used for weaving variety of TT from glass to Carbon. Century Enka uses our tire cord machine to weave high quality tire cord. Khosla, one of the top filter manufactures, has around 30 DORNIER machines. Kusumgar weaves Kevlar fabrics on our machines, in addition to a range of technical fabrics. These are few examples.
Nonwovens is a highly capitalintensive industry. It is also a knowledge-based industry.” - Mohan Kavrie CMD of Supreme Nonwoven Industries
In TT, most people say that India is more or less in nascent stage, but we do have many manufacturers who are weaving different types of TT on Dornier machines.” - Nitin Bavkar Director, DORNIER Machinery India Pvt Ltd Shiva Texyarn—which commenced business as a non banking financial company in 1980 and went public in 1985—ventured into TT with its new division at Ganeshapuram, Tamil Nadu in 2012. In TT, the company is engaged in providing coating, lamination, activated carbon production, impregnation and specialised garmenting. When asked about the company’s various products for TT sector, Sundararaman KS, ED of Shiva Texyarn, a sister company of Bannari Amman Spinning Mills Ltd and a part of the Bannari Amman Group had this to say, “Our digital imaging products cater to markets across the world. Generally, we are among the product leaders nationally in the segments we operate in.” He added, “New projects of Shiva Texyarn include products for use in the military like NBC garments, collective protection systems, biodegradable waterproof fabrics, outdoor gear manufacturing and polar fleece manufacturing.” The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 83
SPECIAL FOCUS: TECHNOTEX 2016
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o make India a manufacturing hub in the area of TT, under the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; initiative of the Government of India. This is one of the objectives of Technotex 2016, Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier show on TT, organised by the Government of India, in association with Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FICCI). The 5th International Exhibition & Conference on Technical Textiles recognises the immense potential of TT and its increasingly diverse and innovative applications. Fittingly, the event has a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;smartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; theme: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Technical Textiles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Towards a Smart Futureâ&#x20AC;?. Technotex 2016 will be held at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai from April 21-23, 2016. Speaking at the curtain raiser event of Technotex 2016, held at Shangri-La, Eros Hotel New Delhi, recently Minister of State for Textiles (Independent Charge), Santosh Kumar Gangwar said that TT can play an important role in the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s social and economic fronts. As examples, he pointed out the applications of geotextiles in infrastructure and agrotextiles in improving agricultural productivity and quality of output. The minister recalled the launch of a Rs 427-croreGovernment of India scheme to promote usage of geotechnical textiles in the north eastern region of India, in March 2015. He said that this scheme would provide support for use of geotextiles in road construction, slope stabilisation and water reservoirs. He expressed satisfaction at the completion of the construction of the airport access road at Imphal, using geotextiles. He said that approval has been given for 13 water reservoir projects in Manipur and Tripura, and for two projects in road construction and slope stabilisation in the two states, all employing geotextiles. Gangwar said that 44 demonstration centres at a total cost of Rs 8.17 crore have been approved, in order to promote agrotextiles in north east region; out of this 23 demonstration centres have started functioning. In addition, 263 agrotextile kits have been distributed to farmers in Manipur and Mizoram. Gangwar said that a pilot scheme has been approved in order to promote agrotextiles in other parts of India. He said that two demonstration centres are being set up under the scheme in drought-affected areas in Amravati district of Maharashtra. Besides this, 60 farmers in Amravati have been identified for distribution of agrotextile kits, said the minister. The minister said that the Ministry of Textiles has set up six focus incubation centres at a cost of Rs 17.4 crore. These centres would help budding entrepreneurs build innovative TT products in a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;plug n playâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; model, and
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would help promote â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in textiles. Gangwar said that the Technology Mission on Technical Textiles (TMTT) has been extended for two years, i.e., for 2015-2016 and 2016-2017. Minister said that eight Centres of Excellence (COEs) have been set up under the scheme, where facilities for testing, R&D and skill development in TT are being set up. He said that TMTT Mission â&#x20AC;&#x201C; II provides support in the areas such as export market development of TT, new business start-ups, contract research and market development support for sale to institutional buyers, among others. He noted that a special focus has been given to TT, under Amended TUFS; a capital subsidy of 15 per cent has been provided for TT machinery under the amended scheme, said the Minister. On the occasion, the minister released baseline survey on TT and BIS standards for the industry. The release of the survey and standards is an important step forward in the Governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s efforts for standardization of TT products in India. The minister also released the event brochure for Technotex 2016. Anu Garg, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles; Alka Panda, Director General, BIS; Pramod Khosla, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association; Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, FICCI Technical Textile Committee; and Vinay Mathur, Deputy Secretary General, FICCI also spoke on the occasion. Technotex, is organised by the Ministry of Textiles in association with Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Industry. It is a flagship event comprising an international exhibition, conference, and seminars. The event showcases products from various sub-sectors of TT, such as indutech, meditech, mobiltech, ecotech, geotech, packtech, protech, sportech, agrotech, clothtech, TT equipment and machinery, raw materials and textile manufacturing services. A common platform for interaction amongst stakeholders from across the global TT value chain, Technotex exemplifies the immense potential for trade and investment between India and foreign countries in TT sector. The exhibition and international conference Technotex India is expected to draw in more than 200 exhibitors, who would showcase a varied collection of TT from the various sub sectors of the TT industry. With participation from nations like Korea, Switzerland, Japan, US, Germany, Belgium, UK, Austria, Italy and many more, the event will witness the country pavilions of Taiwan and China as well. A gateway to the TT arena, the event bridges the gap between buyers and sellers by facilitating B2B (business to business) and G2B (government to business) meetings.
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Supreme Nonwoven Industries has emerged as India’s largest and most diversified Nonwovens company. It has facilities to manufacture Nonwoven Fabrics using all the existing Technologies that use staple fibre namely needlepunched, spunlace, stitch bonded, chemical bonded - wet and powder, thermal bonded - calender and hot air. Speaking on the nonwovens industry, Mohan Kavrie, CMD of Supreme Nonwoven Industries, said, “Nonwovens is a highly capital-intensive industry. It is also a knowledge-based industry. Success is possible by being in niche areas but this means high level of technical competence. Knowledge is not available in the marketplace. COEs are still themselves learning the basics. Only the very basics of elementary nonwovens is beginning to be taught in the colleges. It is not adequate if you are to start a nonwoven business. More important, it is an industry primarily for technocrat driven small and medium size companies. Although there are more than probably 10,000 nonwoven companies worldwide, less than 100 are having over $100 million of turnover. TT industry is not about size. Involvement of the promoter is absolutely necessary for this industry.” He said, “There are some consumer products based on nonwovens such as sanitary napkins, baby and adult diapers, medical and hygiene products, wet wipes, etc. that have large volumes. However, such business model is
Our digital imaging products cater to markets across the world. Generally, we are among the product leaders nationally in the segments we operate in.” - Sundararaman KS ED of Shiva Texyarn not about manufacturing but of marketing. It is the monopoly of the J&J, Kimberly Clark and Proctor & Gambols of the world.” He further added, “Geotextiles is another big market, but here again it is not about manufacturing but offering complete geotechnical solutions.”
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 85
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T Brand is a brand for the masses. You wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find this brand in the niche markets of India,â&#x20AC;? replied Sanjay K Jain, Managing Director of New Delhi-based T T Limited, when asked by one of his close friends as to why we do not see the â&#x20AC;&#x153;T T Brandâ&#x20AC;? in regular malls of India. During the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recently-concluded Silver Bell ceremony at Bombay Stock Exchange, Jain said that the company plans to launch a premium brand in near future, targeting the urban market and youth of India. However, he refrained from divulging more details on this product. He only said that the new product will be different in character, format and design from competitors in that space. T T Brand is a household name for various consumer products as well as industrial and intermediate products and services in India and more than 30 countries. â&#x20AC;&#x153;T T Brand is a 50-year-old brand, though the company was incorporated in 1978 onlyâ&#x20AC;?, says Sanjay K Jain while talking to Karthik Muthuveeran in an exclusive interaction. The name â&#x20AC;&#x153;T Tâ&#x20AC;? is derived from the first textile business venture of the family of Rikhab C Jain, present and founder Chairman of T T Group started by his eldest brother Bhanwar Lal Baid at Kolkata in 1947. This business firm of Tarun Textiles was started by Dr. Rikhab C. Jain Chairman blessings sought by founderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother Sugani Devi (wife of Jes Raj Ji Baid of Bikaner) from Adhistat Dev Madhuban Bhomia Ji Maharaj of Paras Nath Hills in Bihar (now Jharkhand) where 20 Tirthankaras (T.T.) of Jains got Nirvana. The family business
Spinning mills at Rajula, Gujarat.
86 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Silver Trophy Award by Textiles Minister Santosh Kumar Gangwar for the 2nd highest exports of yarn.
then was named â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tarun Textilesâ&#x20AC;?. The business was shortly thereafter joined by second Brother Jhanwar Lal Baid. The present and founder Chairman of T T Group being the youngest of three brothers joined business at Kolkata in 1960. In 1964, when it was about to introduce new range of underwear and undergarments within the business, Tarun Textilesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; abbreviation was used as brand name. Between 1964 to 1970 huge quantities of undergarments were exported from India to Eastern Europe, mainly Czechoslovakia, Holland, Hungry, Yugoslovia and Russia. The credit of coining the word T.T as abbreviation of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tarun Textilesâ&#x20AC;? for underwear Brand goes to Dwarka Das Harmilapi of Twin Star Agencies, who were booking agents of T. R. range of products between 1964-1970. Jain took us through their initial beginning. He says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;We started off in Kolkata with exports under T T Brand and later introduced the brand in local market from late 60s. Till early 90s we were primarily a menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innerwear brand plus were selling knitted fabric too from 1975. In early 1990s, we entered the cotton yarn business by setting up two mills in north as well as south India. In 2004, we made our entry into cotton fibre by Sanjay K Jain
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Spinning mill at Avinashi, Tirupur.
setting up ginning factory in Gujarat and mainly focusing on the exports market. Yarn and fibre reduced our focus on innerwear business, however from 2010, we again started focusing on the same and enhanced our range from innerwear to casual wear and formal wear.” Now, the company offers a wide range of products including cotton fibre, cotton yarn, knitted fabric and garments (innerwear, casual wear and formal wear for men, woman and kids). “We are backwardly integrated and hence can give better assurance of quality. Further we believe in offering value for money to our customer – hence he is a satisfied one. Further we are able to dynamically adapt as per market conditions and keep ourselves relevant to the times,” says Jain. T T Brand has been selected as India’s Most Promising Brand. The brand’s mission has been to add vitality to life by meeting everyday needs of people to feel good, look good and get more out of life. Growth has been more or less steady, however due to change in product mix there has been periods of volatility. Speaking on India as a market for branded products, Jain says, “Potential in India is unlimited. Especially as purchasing power is growing the unorganised customer is aspiring to buy branded products rather than cheap, unreliable unbranded ones. Hence opportunity for branded product is two fold – from growth in market and also shift of unorganised brand customers.” “We are bullish about the Indian market. We plan to have a 50:50 share of exports and domestic from the 60:40 export/domestic ratio today. Globally, China, Bangladesh, Egypt, the Middle East, Peru and Colombia are our main markets India needs to sign FTA s with EU, Canada, Australia on an urgent basis to counter the polarisation which will happen post TPP,” says Jain. Since 1980 onwards, T T has been utilised and exploited by various manufacturing units located at various locations such as Varansi, Kolkata, Tirupur, Delhi, Bikaner, Gujarat, Kanpur, Ahmedabad, Lucknow, Shahranpur, Allahabad, Muzaffarnagar, Ghaziabad, Bangalore, Vijaywada and so on.
A garment factory at Avinashi, Tirupur.
Like other commodities, cotton is also suffering. There is not much anyone can do about the market boom and bust, however we through our textile/mill associations try to alleviate their problems by education and contribution to policy making. Their well being is very important for our well being. “It’s going to be a difficult year for textile industry. We shall grow above industry rate however don’t expect a runaway growth,” replied Jain when asked about the plans for the year 2016.
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 87
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T T Ltd rings the silver bell in BSE
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T Ltd celebrated the completion of 25 years of public listing by ringing the Silver Bell in Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE). The glittering function hosted by Chairman-Founder Dr RC Jain was presided by Padma Bhushan awardee DR Mehta (ex-SEBI Chairman) in the International Convention Centre of BSE in Mumbai on February 24. Apart from the chairman of the company, Sanjay Jain, MD, T T Ltd, and Jyoti Jain, Jt MD, T T Ltd were present. The gathering was addressed by Nayan Mehta, CFO, BSE; Padma VR Mehta, Independent Director; and Chief Guest DR Mehta. Other dignitaries from T T Ltd include Navratan Dugar, Director; VK Kothari, Director; Mahesh Mehta, Independent Director and Sunil Mahnot, Director – Finance.
Sanjay Jain & Rikhab C Jain, Chairman, T T Ltd, ring the gong at the Silver Bell ceremony at BSE in the presence of Chief Guest DR Mehta, ex SEBI Chairman, VR Mehta, Director, and Nayan Mehta, CFO, BSE.
company, and said that it was as professional as any other company if not more. It has the distinction of having three IIM graduates on its Board, one IIT Professor, three qualified professionals and a NIFTian. He also shared his 3 inspirations – Father of Nation Mahatma Gandhi, Saint Kabir and Poet Thiruvallur. Sanjay Jain laid down the vision and roadmap of the company with clarity and crispness. He exuded confidence and commitment to take company to new heights. He said, “Both, the company and the Indian textile industry was at a very important threshold from where we would see both coming out with open wings like a butterfly comes out from its cocoon to dazzle the world with new colours and life.” He felt opportunities for the company were
L-R: Rikhab C Jain and Chief Guest DR Mehta give away a special memento to Nayan Mehta (centre) in the presence of Sanjay Jain and VR Mehta.
The company’s management announced their plans to launch a premium innerwear brand in the near future as part of their new strategy to move towards the fashion side of the fibre to fashion spectrum. This move will help enhance margins and build the brand equity of the company. The company has enhanced their knitwear range to become a garment company from an innerwear company. Dr RC Jain explained the journey of the company and its evolution as a fibre to fashion company as it spread its wings not only across India but also across 65 countries. Brand T T under which all products are sold has become a well known brand with registrations in India and many other nations. He paid special emphasis on the principles of the company and its employees who have been the two important pillars on which the company laid its foundation and grew. He humbly accepted that, “I wasn’t self made as said by many, but was made by all the people who walked with me over the long journey spanning almost 50 years.” He also dispelled the belief that T T was a family managed
88 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
L-R: Nayan Mehta gives a memento to Sanjay Jain.
enormous and the only limiting factor would be human resources. He further said that, “Going forward, the company would focus on value addition and brand building to create a strong portfolio of product lines to address the need of the middle class people of India. Value for money which has been an important principle of the company would continue to stay so in the years to come. Volume growth and occupying market space would be given special focus to ensure it reaches out to the heart of India.” Jyoti Jain while welcoming everyone said, “The company wants to deliver value to everyone connected to it and the endeavour is to always connect the dots to create a happy and peaceful fraternity around it.” She further said, “The company wants to march ahead joining hands with each and every person.” The function ended with the ‘Ringing of the Sliver Bell’, which in words of the Jyoti Jain, “This ceremony doesn’t mark the completion of 25 years, but the beginning of its journey to a golden horizon, i.e., Golden Bell.”
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The latest USTER® QUALITY UNIVERSITY provides expert insights on growth and sustainability.
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he shared experience of top textile executives, a global-scale retail group and the leading provider of textile quality management technology gave a unique insight into the Indian textile industry. Market forecasts, valuable business intelligence and a realistic analysis of problems and solutions combined to draw up a ‘Roadmap for the Future’ for India’s spinning mills, at a special event organised by Uster Technologies. Adaptability, attention to quality issues, value added product mix, sustainable manufacturing and focusing on consumer demands were the key recommendations from a forum of experts.
are they making in their quest for extra business?
India’s textile industry is already huge, and still growing, with 50 million spindles installed. And the government has set an ambitious target to boost its share of global textile trade from 5-20 per cent. Is that a realistic target? How are Indian spinning mills performing today, and what changes
At the third USTER® QUALITY UNIVERSITY held in Goa recently, a group of influential figures discussed these issues and set out a clear vision for present and future expansion. Under the leadership of VR Rathnam, Head, Uster Technologies India, the expert panel delivered a
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 89
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Report practical and authoritative analysis, revealing some often surprising and challenging requirements for successful yarn production. The panel comprised: SK Khandelia, President, Sutlej Group; Calvin Woolley, Global Supplier Development Leader, Ikea; Iris Biermann, Head of Textile Technology, Uster Technologies; and David McAlister, Product Manager Fiber Testing, Uster Technologies. The event attracted 25 high-level participants, including directors and promoters of 25 mills from all over India. The theme of the event, from February 5-7, 2016 was ‘Roadmap to the future of the spinning industry in India’. Leading industry professional Khandelia provided a telling and hard-hitting account of the key issues and options for Indian spinners today. His experience as the head of a group of four mills producing 300 tonnes of yarn per day is significant, and he first outlined the problems mills face in adapting to new market trends. This was often restricted, he said, by the existing plant design and set-up, which prevented innovations that did not fit with the mill’s capabilities. However, dramatic solutions could be found, as when, early in his career, he rescued a 200,000-spindle mill earmarked for closure by initiating product diversification instead.
Focusing on exceptions, benchmarking and ROI Khandelia emphasised the need for focus in managing the business – for example, he now works with only one daily report, compared to numerous documents and papers in the past. He also concentrates only on deviations from the norm in mill production, rather than checking and analysing ‘good’ results: “If we can handle the exceptions, it is enough,“ he said, “but we also know that benchmarking against international standards and best practices is a must, to differentiate our company from competitors.” Ensuring an adequate return on investment was also essential, Khandelia said, and here he revealed his company’s requirement to earn at least 20 per cent ROI – since 11 per cent would be swallowed up by interest. “You can survive one to two years with a loss but not more,” he said. One strategy to cope with instability in raw cotton prices had been to switch towards blends, fancy yarns and mélange yarn to minimize the risk and to complement India’s acknowledged strength in cotton against competition from China and Pakistan by creating a sustainable product mix.
Ikea predicts Indian growth Ikea is the world’s largest furniture retailer, with a strong commitment to cotton and a policy of working closely along the entire production chain. At the USTER® QUALITY UNIVERSITY, its representative Calvin Woolley forecast that India – recently overtaken China as the world’s largest cotton producer – has the potential to be the leader in cotton yarn production too. For Ikea, spinning 90 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
is one of the key points in the value chain, Woolley said, but when the cotton price exploded 2011 they had to look for alternatives – especially blends, to which the market thankfully responded more readily than in the past. For the same reason, air-jet and open-end spinning are taking a bigger share of production from ring spinning. Ikea has been sourcing in India for almost 30 years and despite many challenges the company developed suppliers in sustainable compliance what Ikea calls its IWAY. Many Indian mills today also suffer from unreliable energy sources, something which is vital for the value chain in yarn production. Ikea is keen to push renewable energy sources, and reduce dependence on coal. Said Woolley: “Zero coal demand will come. Not now but it will come, and those spinners who are the last to move to renewable energy will be left behind.” Textiles is only part of the Ikea product offering, but it is a vital element in which quality ranks alongside value and price. Said Mr Woolley: “Affordability is what counts. But if there is a quality mismatch with one product, the customer will lose trust in all our products, not only in textiles.”
Consumers, not salespeople, drive the quality message David McAlister of Uster Technologies pointed out that mills were now having to operate in a consumer-led marketplace, rather than merely offering up an existing product range to their customers in spinning and weaving. “Consumers now define the type of products they like and the performance they need,” he said. “It is not possible for a spinning mill to switch overnight from one fibre type to another, but China, for example, had an issue in staying competitive with cotton, so they moved towards synthetics and man-made fibres.” In some cases, spinning mills needed to be more aware of the implications of using different yarn technologies and other fibre types, said USTER’s Iris Biermann. It is important to design a yarn according to the end-product requirements, not forgetting vital parameters such as pilling behavior, she said. “Too often, know-how is restricted to mill production personnel, so sales efforts are focused heavily on price, price, price – followed by raw material and yarn count. Only then do quality parameters come under discussion.” The high-level panel dialogue was part of the three-day USTER® QUALITY UNIVERSITY, which also featured a series of workshops and presentations, targeted at improving the knowledge, performance and future prosperity of the sector in today’s increasingly demanding and competitive markets. “In the course of the event, it became clear that key people from leading Indian spinning mills are wellequipped to keep textiles in India as a growing industry, with special importance attached to sustainable products and profits,” said VR Rathnam. For further information: www.uster.com
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he Welspun Group in India has a clear business culture: the challenges of the rapidly evolving global textile markets are best tackled by continuous change and steady progress. Within two decades this spirit of innovation made Welspun India Ltd, which was established in 1985, into one of the biggest manufacturers of home textiles in Asia. Welspun’s innovation partner in the field of rotor spinning is the market and technology leader Saurer Schlafhorst, which has revolutionised rotor spinning with the Autocoro 8 and offers textile companies triple added value in the spheres of energy, economics and ergonomics with E³. At two mills in the state of Gujarat, 24,000 employees of Welspun India produce 100,000 tonnes of yarn annually on 300,000 spinning units. The yarn, made from cotton and cotton blends, is destined for the company’s own weaving mills. Welspun produces coarser yarns on rotor spinning machines with 4,300 spinning units in all. Of these, 2,400 incorporate the latest Autocoro 8 technology. The company covers the entire textile value creation chain up to making up and delivers to customers that are household names all over the world.
‘Challenge’ is the term ‘Change’. Anyone aiming to overcome the challenges of the future must be prepared to change. The company has set itself ambitious targets. In 2020, Welspun aims to be one of the 10 most valuable brands in India. Measured against its market capitalisation, the Welspun Group is also targeting a Top 50 position in the Indian industry. To achieve these goals, the Indian manufacturer of home textiles is switching its production consistently to the latest technology. Innovation at all levels is the key to the future for Welspun.
Successful innovation partnership The partnership between Welspun and Saurer Schlafhorst has grown over decades. It is based on common values. Innovation is in the DNA of both companies. An innovative partnership in the strategic
Award-winning excellence Customer orientation and excellence are the conspicuous features of Welspun. All the processes in the company are geared to the requirements of the customers. This exemplary service is reflected in the many awards that Welspun has received from its customers. IKEA recognised the company for the ‘Highest Direct Delivery Share’, while Target presented Welspun with the ‘Partner Award of Excellence 2015’. The Indian company was also given “Best Supplier Award” by Sheridan. And George at ASDA presented Welspun with the ‘Best Product Quality Award for Egyptian Nanospun Towel’. These are just a few examples from a long list of accolades. For Welspun, the enthusiasm of its customers spurs the company on to become even more competitive through a forward-looking strategy for the future.
Future strategy: Welspun 2.0 Modern technologies lead at increasingly shorter intervals to fundamental economic and social changes. A company that wishes to stay ahead of the market in future must reinvent itself repeatedly. Welspun is facing this challenge with its visionary strategy for the future, ‘Welspun 2.0’, which sends a striking key message regarding the programme: concealed in the word The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 91
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From R-L: Sreenu Lingam, Sanjeev Jain, Jaikishan Gupta and Girish Katti in the new rotor spinning mill of Welspun at Anjar.
decision together with Saurer Schlafhorst, passion for change and innovation, sharing know-how are reasons behind sustained success together.
Autocoro with single-drive technology With the background of this corporate strategy, which is geared to the distant future, Welspun opted for the most advanced of rotor spinning technologies: the Autocoro 8 from Saurer Schlafhorst. It has the most future-ready rotor spinning technology on the market, with innovative individually driven spinning units. Schlafhorst revolutionised rotor spinning five years ago with this technology, and over 1,000 of the legendary Autocoro 8 machines have been sold to date. At Welspun, this successful rotor spinning machine is now cutting spinning costs by approx. generating a marked increase in productivity and helping the company with its unique value creation to its greatest economic success. The Autocoro 8 has separated productivity from energy consumption; Welspun is able to set a new benchmark in higher speeds like 138,000 rpm even in coarser count ranges. At the same time, the energy requirement is significantly lower than for a conventional machine with belt drive technology. Sreenu Lingam, President, Welspun, comments: “In the highly competitive and demanding market,we are able to maintain our benchmark, quality and productivity in our most modern weaving and further with Autocoro 8 yarn.” Sanjeev Jain, VP – Projects, Welspun, says: “Autocoro 8 with innovative drive system and flexibility. 92 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
We could achieve new high’s in productivity with minimum infrastructure.” The Autocoro 8 has won Welspun over not just with its unrestricted productivity and low spinning costs, however; the high yarn quality is another manifestation of its technological superiority. That has countless advantages, optimised use of raw material, without compromises regarding yarn quality, run with far fewer yarn breaks in downstream processing. It’s an outcome of systematic efforts, supported by individual drive technology. “We are able to utilise the maximum fibre limits in terms of productivity without compromising quality” says Jaikishan Gupta, VP – Spinning, Welspun. For a vertically integrated textile company like Welspun, the end products constitute the crucial benchmark for quality and economy. Yarns must prove themselves in downstream processing. With the highspeed yarns of the Autocoro 8, fully exploit the performance reserves of modern weaving machines and maintain the ambitious standards for quality, productivity and efficiency in the demanding and competition-oriented market. For further information: Waltraud Jansen Schlafhorst Zweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG, Carlstrasse 60 52531 Übach-Palenberg, Germany Tel: + 49 2451 905 2194 Email: waltraud.jansen@saurer.com Web: www.saurer.com
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ürg Fedier, CFO of the Oerlikon Group says: “In 2015, we defined a strategic roadmap to develop Oerlikon into a more focused company, building on our unique competencies, technologies and positions in surface solutions, advanced materials, components Juerg Fedier, CFO engineering and manufacturing technology. We also completed important steps such as the sale of the Advanced Technologies Segment and the announced divestment of the Vacuum Segment.” “Our balance sheet is strong and allows for targeted investments in organic and inorganic growth. We delivered strong operating profitability in a difficult economic environment. The Surface Solutions Segment continued to perform well, achieving organic growth and solid profitability despite demanding market conditions. As we saw, the markets weakened further in the second half of 2015, and we promptly took decisive actions to mitigate the increasingly adverse headwinds, protect our profitability, and set the path for Oerlikon to sustainably grow over the medium to long term. In 2016, we will continue to focus on improving our flexibility, protecting our profitability and strengthening our technology position.”
Group review At constant exchange rates, the Group order intake increased by 1.6 per cent and sales came in at around prior year’s level. Currency impact on top-line was around 6 per cent. Including currency impacts, order intake was lower by 4.2 per cent (CHF 2,537 million) and sales by 5.5 per cent (CHF 2,671 million). The ratio of
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2HUOLNRQ SHUIRUPV ZHOO LQ GLIILFXOW PDUNHW HQYLURQPHQW the service revenues to total Group sales increased to 33.6 per cent. In 2015, the Surface Solutions Segment generated 46 per cent of Group sales, the Manmade Fibers Segment 30 per cent, and the Drive Systems Segment 24 per cent. Regionally, Europe accounted for the largest proportion of Group sales, with 38.3 per cent (CHF 1,023 million), reflecting a 2.4 per cent increase compared to 2014. Asia followed with 37.7 per cent (CHF 1,007 million), representing a reduction of 10.7 per cent versus 2014, and North America contributed 19.5 per cent (CHF 520 million), a decline of 5.8 per cent compared to 2014. Sales in other regions accounted for 4.5 per cent (CHF 121 million). In November 2015, Oerlikon announced that it would be focusing on attractive growth markets in surface solutions and advanced materials – businesses in which the Group has invaluable and well-established competitive advantages in terms of technologies, expertise and customer relationships. The Surface Solutions business will be strengthened and expanded, and Oerlikon aims to use its strong balance sheet to fund organic and inorganic growth into new materials, technologies, services, industries and markets. One promising area is metal-based additive manufacturing (AM). The Group is also aligning the Manmade Fibers and Drive Systems businesses with current market dynamics. The Manmade Fibers Segment will build on its leading technology position, while adapting its operating model to near-term market realities. The Drive Systems Segment will focus on selected growth markets and reorganise to allow for future value-creating options. The measures initiated at the Manmade Fibers and Drive Systems Segments will significantly lower these segments’ The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 93
Report break-even sales levels, and together with Group-wide operational excellence measures, gross savings of up to CHF 100 million are expected.
Strong underlying operating profitability Despite lower sales, Oerlikon was able to achieve a strong normalised EBITDA margin of 16.9 per cent (CHF 450 million), excluding restructuring costs. Including the one-off restructuring impacts, EBITDA stood at CHF 338 million, correlating to an EBITDA margin of 12.7 per cent (2014 restated EBITDA: CHF 475 million, margin: 16.8 per cent). EBIT for 2015, due to the restructuring and impairment charges, was minus CHF 306 million (2014 restated EBIT: CHF 323 million). Excluding impairments, restructuring costs, amortisation of acquired intangibles (from Metco, net of tax) and results from discontinued operations, the normalised net result was at CHF 207 million in 2015, which reflects an underlying earnings per share of CHF 0.61. Following the inclusions of all the above-mentioned charges, reported net result for 2015 was minus CHF 418 million, and earnings per share were minus CHF 1.24. Cash flow from operating activities before changes in net current assets remained strong at CHF 393 million. Excluding the restructuring and impairment effects, the Group’s normalised return on capital employed (ROCE) amounted to 11.1 per cent.
Strong balance sheet maintained In 2015, Oerlikon maintained a strong financial position. The Oerlikon Group had equity (attributable to shareholders of the parent) of CHF 1,554 million, representing an equity ratio of 38 per cent (2014: 44 per cent). The YoY decrease in the total balance sheet and equity primarily reflected the goodwill impairment related to the Drive Systems Segment. Net cash at the end of the year amounted to CHF 79 million (2014: CHF 114 million). During 2015, Oerlikon extended the maturity of its syndicated credit facility to June 2017 at reduced interest rate, reflecting both the favourable interest rate environment and the Group’s improved risk profile. This enhanced the Group’s debt maturity profile and capital
Dr Fischer is new Group CEO The Board of Directors of Oerlikon today announced that it has named Dr Roland Fischer as CEO of the Oerlikon Group, effective March 1, 2016. In line with the new strategic direction to build a global powerhouse in surface solutions and advanced materials, Oerlikon is mandating an experienced senior industry expert with broad expertise in the company’s key industries and markets to execute the strategy. Dr Brice Koch will leave the company. Dr Fischer previously held various senior executive positions in the energy and the aviation and aerospace business, including seven years at Siemens AG and 18 years at MTU Aero Engines AG. Most recently, he was CEO of the Power and Gas Division at Siemens AG – a business that generated EUR 13 billion of sales in 2014. Dr Fischer holds a degree in Aeronautical Engineering from the University of Stuttgart, Germany and a PhD in Aeronautical Engineering from the University of Karlsruhe, Germany. Oerlikon’s Chairman of the Board, Prof Dr Michael Süss, said: “Fischer brings in-depth expertise in engineering, operational leadership and a remarkable track record in building and growing businesses. His strong leadership skills and extensive experience in the aviation & aerospace and energy markets will be of great value to Oerlikon as we continue to implement our strategy. The BODs is convinced that Roland brings with him the needed competence and qualities to lead the company into this important next phase. I would like to thank Koch for his important contribution. He has led the Oerlikon Group through a phase of important transformations since joining in 2014. We sincerely thank Koch for his efforts and wish him all the best for the future.” Dr Fischer said: “Oerlikon enjoys an excellent reputation in the industry, for its engineering, innovations and customer relationships. It has exceptional technologies, leading positions in key growth markets and a promising strategy. I look forward to leading Oerlikon into a new era and to working in a fascinating and future-oriented business.”
Key figures of the Drive Systems Segment as of December 31, 2015 (in CHF million) FY 2015
FY 2014
¨
Q4 2015
Q4 2014
¨
Order intake
571
781
-26.9 %
127
177
-28.2 %
Order backlog
113
199
-43.2 %
113
199
-43.2 %
Sales (to third parties)
648
779
-16.8 %
137
184
-25.5 %
EBITDA (normalised)1
49
82
-40.2 %
-2
19
>-100 %
7.5 %
10.5%
–
-1.8 %
10.6%
–
-19
82
>-100 %
-70
19
>-100 %
-3.0 %
10.5%
–
-51.3 %
10.6%
–
EBITDA margin (normalised)1 EBITDA EBITDA margin
1 Normalised for one-time restructuring costs of CHF 68 million.
94 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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SPIN & WIND
In manufacturing, the Group saw notable productivity improvements and 97.9% on-time delivery. ” position, thereby increasing Oerlikon’s financial flexibility. This strong financial foundation allows Oerlikon to further develop its portfolio in line with its strategic roadmap for achieving long-term profitable growth.
Improved productivity and market presence To support Group’s profitability, comprehensive initiatives in operational excellence and cost savings were carried out in 2015, focused on manufacturing and supply chain management. In manufacturing, the Group saw notable productivity improvements and 97.9 per cent on-time delivery. In supply chain management, pooling of purchases, upgrading skills and streamlining processes via electronic platforms resulted in mid-double-digit millions of gross savings in Swiss francs. In 2015, the Group also held its first Global Health & Safety Day, reinforced its safety measures and further reduced the Group’s global Lost Time Accident Frequency Rate by 32 per cent. In 2015, Oerlikon continued to strengthen its market presence in key regions. The Surface Solutions Segment
opened its first service centre offering both Oerlikon Balzers and Oerlikon Metco technologies in Guelph, Canada, its first Europe-based automotive competence centre in Slovakia, a new sales office in Dubai and an AM centre in Westbury, USA. The Manmade Fibers Segment opened a new service centre in Dalton, USA and a new technology centre in Chemnitz, Germany. The Drive Systems Segment inaugurated its third plant in India and appointed distributors as partners in Argentina, Chile, Colombia and Peru to further develop its South American business. With the improved proximity and services to customers, the Group increased the ratio of service revenues to total Group sales to 33.6 per cent at the end of 2015.
Continued strong commitment to R&D Oerlikon continued to demonstrate its strong
Key figures of the Oerlikon Group as of December 31, 2015 (in CHF million) FY 2015
FY 20146
¨
Q4 2015
Q4 2014
¨
Order intake1
2537
2 647
-4.2%
597
711
-16.0%
Sales1
2671
2 825
-5.5%
657
774
-15.1%
EBITDA (normalised)1
450
477
-5.7%
97
125
-22.4%
EBITDA margin (normalised)1
16.9%
16.9 %
–
14.8 %
16.1%
–
338
475
-28.8%
-15
124
>-100%
EBITDA margin1,2
12.7%
16.8 %
–
-2.2%
16.1%
–
Result from continuing operations1,2,3,5
-402
222
>-100%
–
–
–
Net result (normalised)4,5
207
2027
2.5%
–
–
–
Net result5, 7
-418
202
>-100 %
–
–
–
11.1%8
10.4 %7
–
–
–
–
EBITDA1,2
ROCE5
Continuing operations; Includes one-time restructuring costs of CHF 112 million in Q4 2015; Includes impairment charges of CHF 476 million in Q4 2015; Excludes impairments, restructuring costs, amortisation of acquired intangibles (from Metco, net of tax) and results from discontinued operations in Q4 2015; Reported annually and semi-annually only; Metco consolidated for seven months, restated following the announced divestment of the Vacuum Segment; Reported; Normalised
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 95
Report commitment to R&D in 2015 and invested around 4 per cent (CHF 103 million) of Group sales in R&D. A total of 86 new patents were filed in 2015.
Q4 performance For Q4 2015, the Oerlikon Group reported an order intake of CHF 597 million (Q4 2014 restated: CHF 711 million) and sales of CHF 657 million (Q4 2014 restated: CHF 774 million). The reduction in order intake and sales was primarily attributed to the market trough in the Manmade Fibers business and the strong downturn in the agricultural and oil and gas sectors in Drive Systems business. Normalised EBITDA, excluding restructuring costs, was at CHF 97 million, corresponding to a margin of 14.8 per cent. EBITDA including restructuring costs was minus CHF 15 million and margin was minus 2.2 per cent (2014 restated EBITDA: CHF 124 million, margin: 16.1 per cent). Normalised EBIT, excluding impairments and restructuring costs, was CHF 54 million (Q4 2014 normalised and restated: CHF 82 million). EBIT, including impairments and restructuring costs, was minus CHF 534 million (2014 restated EBIT: CHF 80 million).
Dividend Returning value and capital to shareholders through annual dividend payments is important to Oerlikon. Accordingly, the BODs will be recommending to shareholders a payout of CHF 0.30 per share at the 2016 Annual General Meeting of Shareholders (AGM), taking place on April 5, 2016.
to deliver order intake and sales between CHF 2.3 billion and CHF 2.5 billion and an EBITDA margin in the mid-teens for the full year 2016.
In 2015, the Surface Solutions Segment generated 46 per cent of Group sales, the Manmade Fibers Segment 30 per cent, and the Drive Systems Segment 24 per cent.” Surface Solutions Segment In 2015, the Surface Solutions Segment achieved strong profitable growth and successfully advanced its business. At constant exchange rates, order intake increased by 34.7 per cent to CHF 1,300 million (2014: CHF 965 million), and sales increased by 33.1 per cent to CHF 1,295 million (2014: CHF 973 million). The growth in sales and order intake was attributable to the inclusion of Metco for the full year of 2015, but also to some organic growth. EBITDA for the Surface Solutions Segment increased to
2016 outlook Oerlikon’s markets are fundamentally supported by medium- and long-term drivers such as globalisation, mobility, energy and urbanisation. Backed by these drivers, the Group is convinced that its key markets will recover and grow. However, the Group expects 2016, and also 2017, to remain challenging. With the strategic direction set and the decisive actions initiated, Oerlikon believes it will be able to partially offset some of the adverse shortterm market impacts. With a clear focus on continuing to protect the company’s solid profitability, Oerlikon expects Key figures of the Manmade Fibers Segment as of December 31, 2015 (in CHF million) FY 2015
FY 2014
¨
Q4 2015
Q4 2014
¨
Order intake
733
901
-18.6 %
151
213
-29.1 %
Order backlog
237
365
-35.1 %
237
365
-35.1 %
Sales (to third parties)
794
1073
-26.0 %
195
257
-24.1 %
EBITDA (normalised)1 EBITDA margin (normalised)1 EBITDA EBITDA margin
128
219
-41.6 %
24
44
-45.5 %
16.1 %
20.5 %
–
12.1 %
17.0 %
–
85
217
-60.8 %
-18
43
>-100 %
10.6 %
20.3 %
–
-9.4 %
16.6 %
–
1 Normalised for one-time restructuring costs of CHF 43 million.
96 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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As announced on March 1, 2016, the Board of Directors (BODs) proposes that Gerhard Pegam, Prof Dr Michael Süss and Hans Ziegler are to be re-elected as members of the BODs of the Oerlikon Group. In addition, the Board nominates Dr Jean Botti, David Metzger and Alexey V Moskov as candidates for the BODs of the Oerlikon Group. Dr Botti would be an independent Director on the BODs, while Metzger and Moskov would both represent the principal shareholder Renova. The election of the new board members and of board members standing for re-election will take place at the AGM on April 5, 2016. Dr Mary Gresens, Mikhail Lifshitz and Johan Van de Steen will not be standing for re-election at the AGM. Dr Süss, Chairman of BODs of Oerlikon, said: “On behalf of the BODs, I would like to thank Dr Mary Gresens, Mikhail Lifshitz and Johan Van de Steen for their valuable contributions to the company and wish them all the best for the future. I am pleased to announce the new nominees to the Board. Dr Botti, Metzger and Moskov all bring with them extensive know-how and experience in their respective fields and will add further expertise to the Board.” Dr Botti (1957, French citizen) was Airbus Group’s CTO since May 2006, and will be joining Royal Philips on April 1, 2016 as its Chief Innovation and Strategy Officer. Before Airbus, Dr Botti held diverse management positions from 1997 to 2006 with Delphi. Prior to Delphi, he was with General Motors and Renault in various management positions, mostly in the area of managing chassis engineering, components, drivelines and other automotive components. He holds 31 patents, and has two Master’s degrees: one in mechanical engineering from the Institute National des Sciences Appliquees of Toulouse, France, and the other in Science Administration from the Central Michigan University, USA, and a PhD in Mechanical Engineering from the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, Paris, France. Metzger (1969, Swiss and French citizen) is MD – Investments, Renova Management AG, Zurich, Switzerland. Since 2011, he held various positions at Renova, initially as CFO of Venetos, and later as Deputy MD – Strategy and M&A. Prior to Renova, Metzger worked for Good Energies, where he was investment manager for four years and during which, he also served as CFO and Board Member of several ventures. Before Good Energies, he was Senior Manager at Bain & Company, focusing on strategy and private equity. Metzger holds a Master’s degree in business economics from the University of Zurich, Switzerland, and an MBA from INSEAD, Fontainebleau, France. Moskov (1971, Cypriot and Russian citizen) is Chairman of the Executive Board, Renova Group. In 2004, he was appointed COO of Renova Management AG, Zurich, Switzerland. Prior to Renova, he served on BODs of NGK Slavneft.
CHF 264 million (2014: CHF 183 million), yielding an EBITDA margin of 21.4 per cent (2014: 18.8 per cent). EBIT was CHF 157 million, with an EBIT margin of 12.7 per cent (2014: CHF 98 million and margin of 10.0 per cent). “The Surface Solutions Segment developed well in 2015. It successfully integrated Metco, delivered strong profitability as well as organic growth, resulting in an above-market performance despite the difficult market conditions,” noted Fedier. The segment continues to address attractive markets with solid structural growth drivers such as the increasing demand for lighter and more durable materials that can deliver better performance. In 2015, the segment entered the new, adjacent market of additive manufacturing, set up a dedicated business unit, launched its first set of additive manufacturing materials, and printed a first set of components in 3D to demonstrate its capabilities in additive manufacturing. The segment also continued to bring next-generation coating technologies for tools to the market, such as BALINIT® CROMA, the extremely wear-resistant thin-film coatings, INNOVENTA mega, a physical vapor deposition (PVD) system with extremely high throughputs, and BALINIT ALTENSA, the high-speed solution for productive gear cutting. Other technologies launched include new environmental barrier coatings to provide turbine engines with effective protection against vapor and environmental factors and a silver-containing antimicrobial PVD coating that provides better protection for medical components and instruments in partnership with the medical technology company, Stryker.
Manmade Fibers Segment The Manmade Fibers Segment was exposed to major challenges in 2015, primarily caused by the speed and extent of the economic slowdown in China, the Chinese government’s review of its 13th five-year plan (2016-2020), low oil prices and sluggish global economy. The consequences impacted China’s textile sector and extended equipment overcapacity, which resulted in order postponements and weak demand. At constant exchange rates, order intake declined by 12.3 per cent to CHF 790 million (2014: CHF 901 million), and sales was lower by 20.6 per cent to CHF 852 million (2014: CHF 1,073 million). Excluding restructuring costs, normalised EBITDA was CHF 128 million, or 16.1 per cent of sales. Including the restructuring costs, EBITDA stood at CHF 85 million in 2015, corresponding to a margin of 10.6 per cent (2014: CHF 217 million representing a margin of 20.3 per cent). Normalised EBIT in 2015 was CHF 110 million, or 13.8 per cent of sales (normalised EBIT in 2014: CHF 199 million, margin: 18.6 per cent). Including the restructuring costs, EBIT was CHF 67 million. “In 2015, Manmade Fibers Segment saw a sharp industry downturn driven primarily by China. The segment initiated decisive operational and structural The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 97
SPIN & WIND
Change in BODs of Oerlikon
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Report Key figures of the Surface Solutions Segment as of December 31, 2015 (in CHF million) FY 2015
FY 20141
¨
Q4 2015
Q4 2014
¨
1 233
965
27.8 %
319
321
-0.6 %
81
79
2.5 %
81
79
2.5 %
Order intake Order backlog Sales (to third parties) EBITDA EBITDA margin
1 229
973
26.3 %
325
333
-2.4 %
264
183
44.3 %
71
76
-6.6 %
21.4 %
18.8 %
–
21.8 %
22.8%
–
1 Metco consolidated for seven months.
measures, which will support the lowering of its cost base substantially by the end of 2016. The measures led to restructuring costs of CHF 43 million in 2015,” stated Fedier. In 2015, the segment strengthened its technology portfolio with a new version of the Plant Operation Centre (POC), a complete software solution that manages the entire spinning and texturing production process. It also introduced RoTac3, the eco-friendly and energy-efficient component for yarn tangling, and EvoTape, which enables greater process stability in efficient tape extrusion for the production of carpets, agricultural textiles and geotextiles. New additions to the successful WINGS line of products (Winding INtegrated Godet Solution) included WINGS FDY PLUS that allows for a larger operation window and higher package weights. The Segment also reinforced its position in the polycondensation market through a joint venture with Huitong Chemical in China, creating a company that can offer comprehensive industrial solutions, from continuous polycondensation to finished end products in chemical-fibre spinning or PET bottle-grade material.
Drive Systems Segment Four of the segment’s six key markets, namely mining, oil and gas, agriculture and construction, saw tough developments in 2015 triggered by plummeting oil and commodity prices and the slowdown in China. Decisive actions were taken to streamline its business, sharpen its focus on products, adjacent markets and customers that will drive future growth, and improve the efficiency of its operations. Reflecting these actions, restructuring costs of CHF 68 million were taken in 2015 and impairment charges of goodwill and fixed assets of CHF 476 million were recognised.
98 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
At constant exchange rates, order intake declined by 23.4 per cent to CHF 598 million (2014: CHF 781 million), and sales decreased by 13.8 per cent in 2015 to CHF 671 million (2014: CHF 779 million). Normalised EBITDA for 2015, without the restructuring effects, stood at CHF 49 million, or 7.5 per cent of sales (2014: CHF 82 million, margin of 10.5 per cent). Including restructuring costs, EBITDA was minus CHF 19 million, or minus 3.0 per cent of sales. Normalised EBIT, excluding the restructuring costs and impairment charges, was CHF 10 million, or 1.6 per cent of sales (2014 normalised EBIT: CHF 41 million, margin of 5.3 per cent). EBIT, including both the restructuring and impairment charges, was minus CHF 534 million. “The acceleration of the weaknesses in the end markets of the Drive Systems Segment led to a non-cash goodwill impairment charge and the need to streamline its business in activities where the Segment enjoys strong technology and market positions, allowing for future value-creating options,” commented Fedier. In 2015, the segment achieved a number of key developments. It introduced a new range of Torque Hub® drives for self-propelled agricultural sprayers and a new power transfer unit (PTU) for next-generation clutch transmissions in Mercedes AMG models. To improve manufacturing efficiency, new robotised cells were added at the plant in Rivoli, Italy and a new Mercedes assembly line was installed in the Luserna plant in Italy. In addition, the segment launched a joint research project with Surface Solutions Segment to develop new friction materials and pursue other synergies.
Report
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The year of Swiss innovation in India is an initiative by the Embassy of Switzerland, which brought together the scientific communities, researchers and entrepreneurs of India and Switzerland.
O
n February 4, 2016, Rieter in exclusive cooperation with the Embassy of Switzerland recognised its significant achievements in the textile industry in a gala event organised at New Delhi. The occasion marked 2016 as the year of Swiss innovations in India. This event brought together more than 90 dignitaries across the multiple diaspora, which includes textile business leaders, members of Swiss Business Forum from India, representatives from textile associations, leading vendors and media persons. The year of Swiss innovation in India is an initiative by the Embassy of Switzerland, which ushers the scientific communities, researchers and entrepreneurs of India and Switzerland. It led a platform showcasing Rieter’s success story in textile domain in past and Dr Norbert Klapper, Group CEO, Rieter, the presence. presents on Rieter innovations. The event embarked with very articulate and affluent oration by Dr Linus Von Castelmur, H.E. Ambassador of Switzerland to India and Bhutan. A highlight was an audio-visual presentation showing the milestones of Rieter as leading supplier of entire spinning systems in India and the world. The event moved with a thought provoking words by Dr Norbert Klapper,
Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for shortstaple fibre spinning. ”
Gathering at the event.
Group CEO of Rieter on the company’s achievements in its 220 years and its thrust on innovation led by three promising areas: Listen to the customer; make technology available and nurture innovation spirits. This is what makes Rieter to maintain as innovation leader in short staple spinning. The gathering further got an overview by Peter Anderegg, a Swiss innovation expert, on the small country’s “Innovation Power” and its global position in terms of innovation with future challenges and opportunities. Thomas Anwander, Chairman of Board of Directors, Rieter India Pvt Ltd, concluded the programme with special closing remarks. Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fibre spinning. Based in Switzerland, the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibres and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover spinning preparation processes as well as all four final spinning processes currently established on the market. With 16 manufacturing locations in 10 countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 5 077, about 21 per cent of whom are based in Switzerland. For further information: www.Rieter.com
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 99
SPIN & WIND
$ JUDQG IHWH IRU 5LHWHUªV VDJD RI VXFFHVV LQ ,QGLD
Spin-Offs
Simta’s bobbin transport fully automatic system
L
ocated in Coimbatore, Simta is an integrated textile engineering enterprise offering a wide range of products including spindle tapes, clearer rollers, bobbin, transport, industrial fabrics, foundation fabrics, sheet metal and U PVC profile. It was incorporated in the year 1990. The company’s latest offering is the bobbin transport fully automatic system. Features of this system include: the bobbins are doffed automatically by a bobbinchanger at the roving frames and hangs the full bobbins up into the rail in front of them; the trains are driven automatically to the storage area; the storage is able to store the loaded trains with different yarn qualities; and different qualities should have different colours of bobbin tubes for better identification. If a ring spinning machine needs full bobbins, a button at the ring-frame is pushed and a train with full bobbins is automatically driven to the ring spinning frame. The control system makes sure that the train with the right yarn quality is sent to the spinning frame. Inside the creel, the train can be moved easily forward and backward from the operator to the place where full bobbins are needed. If all the bobbins are changed, the
Testrite shrinkage tester T estrite is regarded as the world leader for yarn shrinkage testing equipment and has recently celebrated over 50 years in the industry. The testing equipment which are solely produced by Testrite include the now famous patent heat shrinkage testers. Testrite produce three shrinkage and force testing machines.
Testrite MK V shrinkage & force tester Testrite Ltd’s digital yarn shrinkage tester is designed and based on the original T.S. AB idea to determine the shrinkage of tyre cord yarns at closely controlled temperatures. This digital shrinkage and force tester incorporates these ultra modern features. The company is now on the sixth version of this very successful tester which measures free shrinkage and shrinkage force.
train is driven back to the storage area automatically by pushing a button. While the train with un-cleaned tubes is waiting for the next doffing the tubes will be cleaned automatically by a bobbin cleaning machine. After finishing the cleaning, the train can be released and called from the roving frame automatically. A computer system controls via monitor drive motors as well as electric point switches and shows what happens in production. So a fully automatic system is very flexible, nearly complete-automatic and each roving frame can feed every ring spinning frame. In Simta, the testing for quality assurance starts from sourcing of raw materials and continues to the final process of production. For further information: SF No. 683A, Railway Feeder Road, Ravathur Post, Sutur Via. Coimbatore - 641 103 Tel: +91 422 2680705 Mob: +91 98422 31483 Email: info@simta.com / sales@simta.com Web: www.simta.com
International tyre manufacturers such as Bridgstone, Firestone, Michelin, Goodyear use this equipment. In Asia, demand has been particularly strong for Testrite’s digital MKV shrinkage and force tester such as Reliance, Garden, etc. MKV shrinkage machine measures the shrinkage of tyre cord yarns at closely controlled temperatures from 20°C to 250°C. In this model, the heater and hardware unit are remote from the separate control module for ease of service and repair. The control module features a 16 character alphanumerical display and 20 key touch pad to program test requirements. The load cell range now includes 25N, 100N or 200N capacity options. Shrinkage range include: -5 to +32.5 per cent. Built in miniature printer produces accurate graph of result. Its applications include tyre cord, industrial yarn, fishnets, nylon, FDY yarn and textured yarn. For further information: Thymas Electronics Pvt Ltd Yogidhara, 2 Nandanvan Society, Near Gas office, Alkapuri, Vadodara 390 007, Gujarat. Tel: 0265 2351634 / 2312730 Email: thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com Web: www.thymas.com
100 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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CA Bremen has announced it will deliver its next ‘Cotton Classing & Testing’ training programme, followed by a new ‘Learning about Machinery’ training course this June in Germany. The six-day ‘Cotton Classing & Testing’ training will take place from June 14-21 in Bremen, Germany. Karsten Froese of ICA Bremen, explains: “Our Classing & Testing training has always proved popular so we will be continuing to run it again. It will cover a series of modules delivered by ICA Bremen and the Bremen Fibre Institute (FIBRE); from classifying various growths of cotton to practical HVI training on the latest equipment - including Uster 1000 and Premier ART2. “This year, we have listened to feedback to take the training one step further through the introduction of the ‘Learning about Machinery’ training. Together, the two training courses will expand delegates’ knowledge of the journey of cotton to the finished product.” The new, optional two-day ‘Learning about Machinery’ training course will be delivered in association with the Institute of Textile Technology and Process Engineering
(ITV), Germany’s largest centre of textile research. This training will take place from June 23-24 at ITV in Denkendorf, Germany. Uwe Heitmann, ITV, explains: “Unlike other textile institutes in Europe, ITV has a complete pilot plant so we can handle the whole process chain under one roof – from molecule or raw material to the finished product. This new, ‘Learning about Machinery’ training will give delegates an overview of the complete textile process needed to generate a fabric from bales. It will cover areas such as; spinning, weaving, knitting, non wovens, finishing and functionalisation and garment production. As well as lectures, there will be a focus on ITV’s latest research in the relevant areas and explanations of the processes directly at the machines – which should be a unique and valuable experience for the delegates.” These training programmes are aimed at individuals who wish to gain an in-depth knowledge in cotton classing, testing and textile machinery. For further information, www.ica-bremen.org.
Trishul Overseas: Pioneer in textile machinery spares S ince its inception in 1985, Trishul Overseas has been a pioneer in trading of textile machinery spares. The company is distinguished for its services encompassing marketing, presales consultancy, sales, distribution, and after-sales-services. The company offers its products in the Indian market as well as in countries like Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Egypt, Syria, Nepal, Srilanka, etc. Trishul Overseas’ bobbin holder comes with a replacement warranty of four years. Some of the important features of this bobbin holder include: improved design with ratchet mechanism for easy life long strokes, infused spherical bearing & rocking system ensures better performance, fully closed to protect entry of fluff and dust, and a smooth and consistent unwinding of roving. Its high grade polymers are used for manufacturing, the trip mechanism (holding and releasing
mechanism) is redesigned and is robust, test guaranteed for one lakh strokes. The bobbin holders hold all the roving bobbin sizes and weights. Other products offered by Trishul Overseas include blowroom spares, carding, draw frames, combers, unilaps, ring frames, speed frames, over head travellers, Volkmann TFO spares, transport belts, fluff cleaning guns, plastic separators, autodoffing spares, lattice aprons, ceramic cutters, lappet hooks, flat cleaning brushes, compact spinning, spares for splicers, Suessen elite spares, and splicer and knotter spares. For further information: Trishul Overseas Khasra No. 668, Near MCD Girls Primary School, Ghitorni, New Delhi - 110030 Tel: +91-98157 50410 Email: trishuloverseas99@gmail.com Web: www.trishuloverseas.com The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 101
SPIN & WIND
More training opportunities for cotton industry in Germany I
Report
,QQRYDWLYH IDEULFV ZHDYH ZRQGHUV DW 6XGLWL ,QGXVWULHV Ponte Venese is a quality, compact, double-knit fabric re-created for maximum comfort, fluidity and natural stretch.
“W
hy should India import new types of yarn and fabrics while we have abundant resources and raw material base to develop new materials of our own. This will help us reduce not only dependence but also the cost in final product,” said Rajagopal Chinraj, President of Suditi Industries, which has its factories located at Pawne Gaon in Navi Mumbai. Chinraj never likes to rest on the laurels. New weaves and fabrics are his passion now. Goaded by him, his team of skilled workforce has developed a fabric called Ponte Roma, which is a combination of viscose, nylon and spandex and a technique for Japanese dyed fabric which produces indigo effect on many colours. Ponte Roma or Ponte de Roma is one of an ancient names in textile/fabric industry. People remember it to be rough, stiff and polyester material. But today, Ponte fabric has come a long way. Suditi Industries has joined hands with Birla Celulose, Aditya Birla Group to revamp the fabric to give an improvised version of Ponte Roma, manufactured in India; better suited for structured designs called ‘Ponte Venese’. ‘Ponte Venese’ made from the combination of viscose, 102 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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Says Chinraj: “Renowned brands have shown interest and are working on using this fabric in their clothing line. The fabric being extremely usable creates a wide gamut of canvas for designers and brands to create a variety. We are sure that the final product will be enriched by all.” Manohar Samuel, President – Marketing, Birla Cellulose, Aditya Birla Group, comments: “Ponte Venese is a quality, compact, double-knit fabric re-created for maximum comfort, fluidity and natural stretch. Suditi had innovative techniques deployed during the technical perfection of this fabric. Being an invaluable member of Liva Accredited Partner Forum-LAPF, Suditi has consistently innovated in Liva knitted fabrics of value that delight consumers.” This fabric advancement was undertaken along with Birla Cellulose’s TRADC. Currently, Ponte Venese is under production and is expected to be made available to all soon. Suditi Industries, founded in 1991 as a processing plant, has grown in both size and scale with state-of-the-art facilities including for knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing and garmenting departments. The company has excelled in a very short span in the licensing business. It has acquired nylon and spandex that are softer and gives a feel good factor on the wearer’s body, drapes well, and the structured fabric does not curl at the edges, says Chinraj. The fabric can be knitted from all sorts of different types and weights of yarns and elastane is often included to increase the stretch, its also gives exceptional effect while printing or dyeing. It is a firm, stable knit which holds its shape well in a garment, increases longevity and helps the fabric to look great for longer. Another great characteristic of this fabric is that it is great for leisure wear, active wear, fitted streamlined
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garments and even yoga wear. This versatile fabric allows a comfortable fit, while still holding its shape, multiple application of this garment is the key factor of this fabric. It has a perfect amount of stretch and it requires no elastic or drawstring to hold it.
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official manufacturing licensing rights for FIFA 2014 World Cup, Real Madrid CF, FC Barcelona, Manchester City FC, MTV India, and many more lined up. Suditi Industries Ltd has been manufacturing for more than past three decades and over these years it has grown and established self as an enterprise known for knitwear solutions. It comprises of in-house capacities of fabric dyeing, processing, knitting, printing, garmenting and retail. With hands-on experience, skilled work force aboard and highly tech-proof machinery, Suditi Industries is amongst the top manufacturers in the country. Expertised in knit fabrics, the company has a capacity to roll out 2000 tonnes of knit fabric annually through 60 high speed circular knitting machines. Around 12 tonnes of knitted fabric is dyed per day and can print up to 72-inch fabric with production of 50 tonne per month. In addition to knitting and fabric departments., the company has in-house expertise in printing (flatbed/belt), peaching, embroidery, laser cut, sewing, and many more. To differentiate and increase their visibility as well as highlight the USP/ strengths, the company started with their own retail brands called Riot Jeans (Casual wear) & Indianink (Woman EthnicFusion Wear). Riot, a contemporary youth fashion brand by the BSE listed Suditi Industries, which recently generated a revenue of Rs 15 crore post bagging the official merchandise deal of the FIFA World Cup 2014 has created yet another landmark deal in the sports space. Suditi Industries, during their quarterly results, announced that the company has bagged the official apparel licensing right for Real Madrid CF club in India for a period of three years. Through this deal, the company continues to strengthen its commitment in the sport apparel space. Real Madrid, which is arguably the most recognisable club in the world of football with the valuation of $3,440 million, has given the rights to Suditi Industries to manufacture and sell fan-based merchandises, thus targeting the youth across the cities in India. As part of the deal, Riot will introduce a wide range of products across categories like t-shirts, sweatshirts, shorts, boxers, polos and track pants, which will be available in trendy colours for both men and women. The designs will be inspired by the Real Madrid name, legal logotype, tiago Bernabéu Stadium and player’s images and the designs of 104 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
the official numbers of the players which can will be seen on the products. Pawan Agarwal, Chairman and Managing Director, Suditi Industries, states, “The Real Madrid Club license will help to open doors for future strategic partnerships and will create a strong identity for the company in the sport licensing sector.” Animesh Maheshwari, Retail head at Suditi Industries Ltd, comments, “We are proud to associate and bag the apparel and merchandising right for one of the most popular football clubs in the world. Post the FIFA merchandise deal, this will be our next big step to further strengthen the brand’s space in the sports segment and expect the company’s revenue to go up by 15 to 20 per cent this year.” “When big companies from Europe are sourcing from India, the cost is 15 per cent more than that of import from Vietnam, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. These countries’ quality has also improved and hence we are losing. The Government should improve the external factors and automatically the industry will be able to export more,” says Chinraj. “Concession is misused and this should be attacked and stopped. Our scale of production is too low. Previously our policy used to be ‘Spend Less, Save More’, but now this is giving way to a policy of ‘Spend More, Create More’. This is good for the country,” opines Chinraj. The consumption of synthetic materials at Suditi Industries is increasing now because Chinraj sees a lot of scope for garments made of synthetic materials and blends, which can also be cheaper. “But still cotton has certain advantages and it is available easily and India being a tropical country, cotton sells better. Therefore about 65 to 70 per cent of the materials are cotton and cotton blends,” says Chinraj. Chinraj has a list of wish-list for the industry and the Government: The Government should reduce concession exercises and go for FTAs to promote exports. Secondly, fear of investor should go and the industry must be free of anxieties when investing in new places. Thirdly, training and education must be given more importance. Interest rate is very high in India and the Government should take steps to alleviate the burden. Finally, Chinraj lays emphasis on work culture improvement to boost output. “We need educated leaders and responsible rulers for India,” was his final salvo, when asked about what is the need of the hour.
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KARL MAYER has developed the NOV-O-MATIC 1000 to meet the demand for warp beams.
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he NOV-O-MATIC from KARL MAYER is an automatic, short-warp, sectional warping machine that focuses on premium quality and flexibility when producing warp beams. The technical features of this innovative warp preparation machine include the laser band build-up system, which guarantees uniform band circumferences and warping carriage movements, without the need for intermediate stops to make adjustments, and automatic, freely selectable leasing systems, which may have up to nine sizing divisions. A range of creel systems is available with yarn tension controllers to suit every type of yarn – a feature that makes the NOV-O-MATIC an all-round machine. This warp preparation machine can be used in the production of shirtings, mattresses, bedding, bathroom and cleaning textiles, as well as some technical textiles, soft furnishings, suitings and silk fabrics. This sectional warping machine has recently undergone some optimisation work, which makes it even more suited to the market. As of now, the NOV-O-MATIC can be ordered with an equalising roller as an optional feature. This cylindrical component is already being used successfully as a standard feature on the semi-automatic ISOWARP and PROWARP sectional warping machines. This technology has been patented for automatic sectional warping machines. The equalising function enables irregularities in the beam build that occur during processing, such as differences in the yarn count and yarn tension between the inner and outer
Alignment of the drum on the NOV-O-MATIC, after it has been assembled before start-up at KARL MAYER.
layers, to be equalised efficiently – with fewer or, if required, without any active yarn tension control systems at the creel. This improves the quality of the warp beam even more. The surface of the beam and the band build are extremely uniform. The equalising roller also compresses the density, which enables the warp lengths to be increased. All these performance features are designed to appeal to the customer. A video of the NOV-O-MATIC with equalising roller was presented at ITMA 2015, where it attracted the attention of many visitors to the fair. They saw this technology as a real innovation that would enable them to use automatic warping to produce longer warp lengths. The first NOV-O-MATIC with equalising roller has already been sold to a textile producer in Europe. Another customer in Europe is looking into a second machine. This textile producer is currently testing the processing of different yarns on the sectional warping machine at KARL MAYER. The warp length and the operating features of the NOV-O-MATIC have been modified to give the customer added benefits. KARL MAYER has developed the NOV-OMATIC 1000 to meet the demand for warp beams with long running lengths. The maximum beam diameter of this upgraded machine is 1,000 mm, which makes it 200 mm bigger than its predecessor – for a maximum 30 per cent increase in speed. Various modifications to the construction of the overall machine, especially to the drum and braking system, were made in order to produce longer warp lengths for the same performance parameters. A new NOV-O-MATIC 1000 has already been sold, following tests carried out using different yarns at KARL MAYER. The machine was dispatched to a manufacturer in Europe in autumn 2015. During the course of upgrading selected machines, the NOV-O-MATIC was fitted with a new operator interface to enable this high-performance machine to be operated easily. Even at first glance, the size of the modern display is striking, since the old 12.1” version has been replaced by a new 15.6” version. The new features soon become apparent during use. Operation via multitouchscreens follows the intuitive logic of a smartphone, whereby the user can scroll through pages by swiping the screen, and the screen can be touched for longer to run through the menu points. This allows the user to design the user interface to suit his own requirements. The modern design of the interface also makes it fun to work at the display. The entire design is based on KARL MAYER’s new KAMCOS® 2 system. The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 105
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Simplicity with robustness: Aalidhra ARWT-850
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alidhra Textile Engineering Ltd is a pioneer in the textile machinery manufacturing domain and a market leader since last three decades, and is an umbrella brand with its branches in textile, weaving, agro-farming and cement industries. The wide range of Aalidhra Textile Engineering products includes POY processing machinery, yarn processing machines, crepe texturing machines and automatic weaving machines. The company’s latest technology—ARWT-850—is a member of Aalidhra product family. The robust design with Aalidhra modern and dedicated manufacturing facility and quality standard; ARWT-850 meets highest reliable status. Used for high-speed weaving, ARWT-850 is sturdy with high precise machine frame. It is most reliable and maintenance-free generation technology, and has an unique clutchless drive that minimises maintenance and downtime. It has a powerful electronic platform and consumes less power. For further information: Aalidhra Textile Engineers Ltd Head Office: 2, Functional Estate, Road No. 6, Udhyognagar, Udhna, Surat - 394 210, Gujarat Email: aalidhra@aalidhra.com | Web: www.aalidhra.com Tel: +91-261-2279520-30
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Technical specification Machine width (reed space)
170, 190, 210, 220, 230, 260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360, 380 CM
Performance
Weft insertion speed up to 1100 m/min depending on yarn quality and preparation, type of fabric and shredding motion
Yarn range
Spun yarns: Nm 200 - Nm 3 Filament yarns: 22 den - 4,000 den
Weft selector (optional) Mechanical: 1x1 / 2x2; electrical: 8/8 Weft break detector
Piezo-electric filling detector
Beating drive
Double-sided conjugated cams
Shredding motion (optional)
Tappet, Dobby and electronic Jacquard
Let-off motion
Electronically controlled with sensor and feedback for maintaining warp sheet tension at set value
Warp beams
Standard: Screwed flanges of 805 mm or 1000 mm diameter (optional)
Selvedge motion
Mechanically driven selvedge motion
Warp stop motion
Standard: infrared, or electrical with 4-6 bars (optional)
Cloth take-up
Electronically controlled take-up system; Max. Cloth roll diameter: 600 mm; Cloth roll can be replaced while machine is running.
Pick density
1.75 to 134 picks/cm
Machine drive
Inverter controlled main motor drive to beating, picking and shedding motion
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antastic at second glance – a warpknitted fabric patterned with a high/low design in the Gothic style, produced on an HKS 4-M EL Classically cut and simply white, the dress shown draws the attention to its wearer first of all, but then reveals all its inherent extravagance at second glance. These exceptional characteristics are a feature of the textile. The stretch warp-knitted fabric has an oval, Gothic design, and the scalloped shapes have a distinct, three-dimensional appearance. The interconnected, adjacent arrangement of the waves and the pronounced 3D effects are produced by the clever patterning technology and a specific drawing-in arrangement on the HKS 4-M EL. Whereas the fully threaded ground guide bar, GB 2, works a plain lapping for the ground, GB 3 and GB 4 process elastane in a block-wise arrangement from a beam. The yarns are laid from the two ground guide bars in wavy lines running against each other – basically in a tricot
lapping, which is shogged step-wise by means of pilgrim steps. The elastane is used double at the intersecting points between the waves. This produces zones with a high stretch having a three-dimensional look. Flat, elastane-free zones, which are highly transparent, are located in-between. This attractive high/low design was developed by KARL MAYER using the Texion ProCad warpknit software. It was produced by one of this machine manufacturer’s customers. This European textile producer processed elastane having a count of dtex 78 and polyamide 6.6 of dtex 44 f 34 on an HKS 4-M EL in a gauge of E32. The EL facility is needed to work the long shog movements of the ground guide bars of over 1” and the pattern repeat length of 474 courses. The HKS 4-M EL is a new, innovative machine for efficiently processing even small runs and for producing patterns flexibly. It was presented to the public for the first time at ITMA 2015 in Milan in a gauge of E 28. For further information: www.karlmayer.com
Pooling knowledge in hybrid technologies
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ightweight construction is absolutely indispensable when operating in areas that need to conserve resources and, as a construction philosophy, has many supporters – and this also applies to the Verband Deutscher Maschinen- und Anlagenbau, VDMA (German Engineering Federation). This is why this well-known professional organisation set up a new Working Group specialising in this field recently. This new platform will be known as Hybrid Lightweight Technologies and will replace the existing Forum Composite Technology, with its 175 VDMA member companies, one of which was KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH. The Managing Director of this company, Jochen Schmidt was present at the inaugural event, and was elected as a member of the board of this new group. “We have already made a name for ourselves as a reliable and expert partner in the automotive and wind sectors especially. With our technical know-how and experience, we can make a useful contribution to the Working Group Hybrid Lightweight Technologies,” says Schmidt. The company’s machines for producing multiaxial and biaxial textiles also offer a great deal of potential for designing advanced material composites and thus for opening up new applications. “We are a successful pioneer because we are constantly improving and developing our
Jochen Schmidt, the Managing Director of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH and a member of the board of the new Working Group Hybrid Lightweight Technologies.
company and our machines to give our customers the edge over their competitors by offering them innovative solutions. We are hoping for industry-wide impulses and completely new ideas in our quest for innovation,” explained the Managing Director of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien when speaking about the reasons for cooperating in the new VDMA technology group. For further information: www.karlmayer.com
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 107
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Simple elegance accentuates flamboyance
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'RUQLHU ZHDYHV LWV ZD\ WR WDS VFRSH LQ FRPSRVLWHV Dornier weaving machine helps to open up potentials of modern textile manufacturing technologies for the production of high-performance fibre composite structures.
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oven textile semi-finished products for glass, aramid, basalt and carbon fibre composites mainly help to reduce moving masses and therefore the CO2 emissions. These exceptional efficient high-precision fabrics are more and more used in aviation and aerospace but also in mechanical engineering, construction and architecture. Lindauer DORNIER, by focussing its core competencies under the label of â&#x20AC;&#x153;DORNIER Composite SystemsÂŽâ&#x20AC;? make a valuable contribution to business. Based on the knowhow of fibre handling and the application of thermoplastic materials, the company offers efficient manufacturing processes for these high-performance materials. Weaving per se is a digital manufacturing process. The position of the thread is clearly defined any time in the process and can be documented. Hence, this technique
108 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
is a pathfinder for digital engineering. This characteristic in combination with a superb reliability and reproducibility in industrial production ambiance are prerequisites for its use in highly complex fibre composite components. Fixation or impregnation with thermoplastic matrix materials complete the required process chain. It is not surprising that DORNIER weaving machines are the reference for the processing of carbon fibres for more than 40 years. The first commercial CFRP components were produced with fabrics made on DORNIER weaving machines. This trend has continued since. Just one of the reasons is the multitude of further developments of the DORNIER weaving machine system family comprising rapier and air-jet weaving machines as well as special machines for processing of various technical yarns.
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The first commercial CFRP components were produced with fabrics made on DORNIER weaving machines.” Thanks to the modular design system, the machine concepts are specifically tailor-made to customers’ needs and requirements. Lindauer DORNIER GmbH, technological market leader for weaving systems for technical fabrics and manufacturer of film stretching lines, operates two production sites with approximately 1,000 employees in southern Germany. In order to retain as great a lead as possible in the textile and plastics industries, approximately 8 per cent of the annual turnover is spent for research and development. This, in addition to creative engineering work, thorough knowledge of technological context and customer proximity contributes largely to the outstanding position of the family-owned company. Three types
of weaving machines are offered especially for the production of fabrics for composite technology: The DORNIER rapier weaving machine with a positive controlled center transfer, a rapier weaving machine for 3D structures with the new, specifically developed horizontal take-off for multilayer fabrics as well as a tape weaving machine. A tape production line for the application-specific production of thermoplastically fixed or consolidated tapes complements this range of products. The know-how gained in plant engineering facilitates the integration of all components and processes to a consistent production line. A tailor-made DORNIER production plant or a DORNIER weaving machine—machines “Made in Germany”—helps to open up potentials of modern textile manufacturing technologies for the production of high-performance fibre composite structures.
DORNIER Technology Days Within the framework of the DORNIER Technology Days, prolonged to March 2016, customers and interested persons have the opportunity to see different weaving machines as well as innovative processes in Lindau and to discuss customised solutions and specific applications. In Dornier’s Technology Centre the following products have been exhibited: Jacquard weaving line for 3D structures with horizontal take-off Tape weaving machine A tape production line for the application-specific production of thermoplastically fixed or consolidated tapes Special applications of the DORNIER Open Reed Weave (ORW) technology in the technical textile sector (multiaxial fabrics with local reinforcement). The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 109
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$87()$ªV FXVWRPLVHG FRQFHSWV LQ QHHGOHSXQFK AUTEFA Solutions’ needlepunch lines meet customers’ requirements for quality web formation, bonding, active weight regulation, and minimal maintenance requirements.
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he sales teams of AUTEFA Solutions combines experts of the former companies Fehrer, F.O.R, AUTEFA and Strahm. The IDEA show is the perfect place to present the economic and technical advantages of AUTEFA Solutions as a full line supplier for needlepunch nonwoven lines. AUTEFA Solutions needlepunch lines meet customers’ requirements for quality web formation, bonding, active weight regulation, and minimal maintenance requirements. AUTEFA Solutions delivers turnkey nonwoven lines including opening and blending, chute feed, carding, crosslapping, needlepunching, drafting, and winding. With AUTEFA Solutions complete line performance equipment, the company offers a solution for every customer. Marco Fano, CEO AUTEFA Solutions, explains: “Customers expect more technological support, a perfect spare part service and a solution for the cumbersome and expensive needle exchange. The performance of the needle loom increases once the needle loom will be not considered as a standalone machine.” The combination of the crosslapper and a needle machine, monitored by a “closed loop control” leads to higher fabric quality. In many staple fibre and nonwoven lines, the crosslapper is important for determining quality. Using the crosslapper from the ‘Topliner’ series, combined
with the profiling system and the additional WebMAX equipment, prevents the increased weight of the fabric in the edge areas, called the ‘smile effect’. This results in an excellent uniformity in the fabric and, thanks to a considerable saving of materials, a lasting reduction in material costs.
Automatic Needle Exchange With the Automatic Needle Exchanger 2.0, AUTEFA Solutions has a unique service machines for every needle loom. The Needle Exchanger enables a fully automatic process of needle rotation and exchange without manual intervention. The machine exchanges single, all, or user defined segments of needles. The Automatic Needle Exchanger 2.0 offers an unprecedented level of needle management. The machine fits into every service workshop and increases efficiency and economics. Some of the key figures are an operating speed of up to 1,500 needles/h and a needle magazine for more than 10,000 needles. For removing and setting of needles no direct involvement of operating personnel is necessary.
Nonwoven Card Web Master FUTURA Customer demands are driving AUTEFA Solutions new developments in nonwoven cards. The Web Master FUTURA card is specially developed and designed for high
Autefa Solutions Automatic Needle Exchanger 2.0
110 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
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all rollers are exactly in the same position like before. The different parts of the card, means feeding group, first main cylinder, transfer group and doffers, are each placed on a separate carriage. The carriages are connected to each other by one screw on each side forming a “train” allowing easy and full access for cleaning and maintenance. AUTEFA Solutions united the former companies AUTEFA, Fehrer, F.O.R and Strahm. The product range includes fibre preparation machines, nonwovens cards as well as aerodynamic web forming machines (Airlay), crosslappers and needle looms for mechanical bonding. With AUTEFA Solutions Switzerland (former Strahm Hi-Tech) the company expanded and offers equipment for thermobonding, drying as well as cutting, slitting, winding and festooning. AUTEFA Solutions is an international machine manufacturing group with locations in Europe, the US and China. AUTEFA Solutions is part of China Hi-Tech Group Corporation (CHTC).
production speeds, tailored to the worldwide requirements for Nonwoven Lines.
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AUTEFA Solutions delivers turnkey nonwoven lines including opening and blending, chute feed, carding, & needlepunching. With AUTEFA, the company offers a solution for every customer. ”
For further information: AUTEFA Solutions Germany GmbH
The focus of the new card Web Master FUTURA is to improve maintenance. AUTEFA Solutions therefore completely reworked the easy opening system. The system is placed on high precision linear bearings, so after closing
Jutta Soell Tel: +49 (0)821 2608–138 Mob: +49 (0)1728834059 Email: jutta.soell@autefa.com
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On-line Air Permeability, Thickness, GSM
Hydrostatic Head Tester
Visit Textest Non Woven Tech Asia 2016 BEC, Goregaon, Mumbai 2-4th June, 2016 Stand : 65, Hall 05 Manufactured by : NEW
Water Vapour Transmission Rate Tester
Phone : 0265 2351634 / 2312730. Webpage : www.thymas.com Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 111
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$1'5,7= ODXQFKLQJ ODWHVW LQQRYDWLRQV DW ,'($ ANDRITZ Nonwoven offers integrated in-house solutions from forming to finishing.
ANDRITZ neXcal quadriga.
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NDRITZ Nonwoven, a part of international technology Group ANDRITZ, will present its latest innovations at IDEA16, the major event for the nonwovens industry in the USA (May 3-5, 2016 in Boston; booth 801). Whether the requirement is for drylaid, wetlaid, spunbond, spunlace, or needlepunch, ANDRITZ Nonwoven offers integrated in-house solutions from forming to finishing.
ANDRITZ neXcal quadriga thermobonding calender In a continuously changing hygiene market, a multitude of new engraving patterns as a result of increasing demands on surface structures or fabric properties is a big challenge to nonwovens producers’ flexibility. The outstanding new five-roll calender concept is a milestone regarding increasing capacity, process stability, and product quality. ANDRITZ Küsters’ neXcal
ANDRITZ neXline needlepunch eXcelle.
112 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
quadriga is equipped with the proven Hot S-Roll and four embossing rolls with fully automated production change.
New solutions for ultralight fabrics As the hygiene market today requires lighter spunlace fabrics with perfect uniformity, ANDRITZ Perfojet has developed new solutions for the production of ultralight fabrics. Thanks to its broad in-house expertise in the drylaid and hydroentanglement processes, ANDRITZ can offer perfect combination of the Isoweb TT card and the jetlace hydroentanglement unit as a currently leading technical solution to process ultralight spunlace products at very high speed. Nonwovens producers are now able to achieve weights of 20 gsm and even less for their ultralight spunlace fabrics. Along with highest productivity, sustainability is also a constant stimulus for development at ANDRITZ Nonwoven. As experts in full line engineering, ANDRITZ
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Cost-efficient needlepunch lines ANDRITZ offers cost-efficient, flexible, reliable, and robust turnkey needlepunch lines from opening and blending as far as the winder. The neXline needlepunch range covers technologies for a wide spectrum of nonwoven end-uses, such as geo-textiles, automotive, filtration, roofing felts, and coating substrates.
ANDRITZ Küsters’ neXcal quadriga is equipped with proven Hot S-Roll and four embossing rolls with fully automated production change.”
The neXline needlepunch eXcelle range provides individual solutions to meet producers’ requirements in terms of fabric characteristics, such as weight evenness, tensile strength, and homogeneity at high production capacity, which can amount to between 4,500 and 9,000 tonne per year. ANDRITZ Asselin-Thibeau supports its customers with technical line configuration and provides associated services to optimise their lines’ performance.
Strong ANDRITZ base in North America In response to the growing US-American market for disposables and durables with many key players, ANDRITZ is well represented in capital sales and aftermarket service for all nonwovens segments by its local branch in Spartanburg, South Carolina. US customers benefit from a highly skilled sales team, responsive service by experienced field and process engineers, and a great range of original ANDRITZ spare parts on stock. One main field of experience is the roll service center, specialized in repair, reconditioning, and upgrading of all types of rolls. Field engineers, spare part specialists, and factory-trained technicians for drylaid and needlepunch technologies from ANDRITZ Asselin-Thibeau complete the ANDRITZ Küsters team. They form a widely experienced task force which can be reached via 24/7 hotline and ensures life-cycle support for all ANDRITZ nonwovens technologies.
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has developed technologies that contribute remarkably to reducing energy consumption and waste while keeping spunlace productivity at the highest level. Pre-wetting configuration, design of the injectors, neXecodry system for drying, water filtration recycling, or compact machine design are all unique advantages of ANDRITZ neXline spunlace.
For further information: www.andritz.com
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enith Industrial Products (ZIP) is engaged in manufacturing and marketing fasteners for the Indian market. Today, the company boasts the most prestigious and well-known Indian clientele. ZIP’s product range includes nuts, bolts, screws, fasteners and hardware items for all types of industries. The company has developed hot forged process lifting eye bolts/ring eye bolts, stay/swing eye bolts, eye nuts, foundation bolts, J-Bolts, L hook bolts, U-bolts, etc. Eye bolt are available from 8 to 56 mm diameter and 5/16 to 2 inch, stay eye bolts are available from 5 mm to 36 mm diameter and 3/16 to 1.1/2 inch, J & L bolts are available from 5 to 12 mm diameter, U bolts are available from 6 to 30 mm diameter. ZIP also offers extra long threaded eye bolts. The bolts provided by the company are supplied as per the IS, BS, JIS and DIN standards or as per client’s samples or drawings. The bolts come with M.S., En-8, Brass & SS 304 - 316 grades. These items are used in electric motors, engineering, automobiles, material handling, hydraulic, pneumatic, pump valve, and other industries. The threads are of MM size BSW, UNC, UNF and BSF threads.
For further information: Zenith Industrial Products | ABC Industrial Fasteners E-122, Ansa Industrial Estate, 1st Floor, Sakivihar Road, Sakinaka, Andheri East, Mumbai - 400 072. Tel.: 022-2847 0806 / 2847 0705 / 6692 3987 Email: zenith@zip-india.com | abc@precibolts.com Web: www.zip-india.com
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 113
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AG Solvics Private Limited—with its strong technical and professional team with excellent track record for best customer satisfaction—has a wide range of textile testing instruments from fibre to garments. Raw material represents about 50 to 70 per cent of the production cost of a yarn. This fact is sufficient to indicate the significance of the raw material for the yarn producer. It is not possible to use a problem-free raw material always, because cotton is a natural fibre and there are many properties which will affect the performance. If all the properties have to be good for the cotton, the raw material would be too expensive. To produce a good yarn with these difficulties, an intimate knowledge of the raw material and its behaviour in processing is a must. Yarn production begins from the selection of raw material, whereby success or failure is determined by the fibre quality, its price and availability. Successful yarn producers optimise profits by a process oriented selection and mixing of the raw material, followed by optimisation of the machine settings, production rates, operating elements, etc. The Fibre Testing Solutions from MAG measures all the important parameters of cotton fibre and simplifies the raw material selection and issue. It has a wide range of fibre testing solutions to cater to all categories of customers.
HVT Expert 1401 Automated comb sampling ensures uniform beard preparation Parallel as well as simultaneous operation ensures faster testing
Features include: Measures the important fibre properties of cotton – length, strength, fineness, maturity, moisture, colour and real trash content; calibration in both HVI & ICC mode by USDA or any other regional / international calibration cotton; trash separation with flexible sample size of up to 50 grams by buoyancy separation technique; measures trash, dust and micro-dust; flexible report options provides detailed and consolidated formats; and ascertains spinnability estimation, process proficiency (PP) and FQI.
BaleMAN & BarCode Can be integrated with HVT Genius 2030 and HVT Expert 1401. Bale Management system works under different selection methods and facilitates in receipt, stock and issue of raw material.
AccuTrash Trash separation by buoyancy separation technique Precise and rapid measurement with flexible sample size upto 50 grams Automatic trash weighment ensures accurate result Inbuilt dust & micro-dust collection cartridge Windows based user friendly application software with enhanced report options
DigiMic XT Built-in re-chargable battery for field testing Vast data memory - Storage up to 1,000 readings with transferable option to software Calibration by USDA Sample weighment by attached digital weighing scale Built-in compressor mechanism avoids external compressed air 114 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Report
*XUJDRQ 7KH QH[W DSSDUHO KXE" “Haryana is the upcoming destination for investment in apparel industry and is turning into an apparel hub,” says PK Das, Additional Chief Secretary, Government of Haryana, while talking at the discussion held with respect to upcoming‘Happening Haryana: Global Investors Summit” in Gurgaon.
T
he Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) hosted the Government Officials of Haryana along with apparel industry experts to discuss the scope of investment in apparel industry as the industry is gearing up for more investment. The discussion was held with respect to ‘Happening Haryana: Global Investors Summit”, on March 7-8 in Gurgaon where apparel sector is one of the focus areas for investment in Haryana. The discussion was led by PK Das, Additional Chief Secretary, Government of Haryana. Other dignitaries present at the discussion were TL Satyaprakash, Deputy Commissioner, Gurgaon; Sanjeev Raheja, CII, Chandigarh; Ashwani Gupta, Additional Director (Tech); SN Singh, Joint Director, District Industries Centre, Gurgaon; Vijay Mathur, Additional Secretary General, AEPC; HKL Magu, MD, Jyoti Apparels; Animesh Saxena, MD, Neetee Clothing; and Gautam Nair, MD, Matrix Clothing. Critical issues such as skilled manpower supply, ease of doing business and need for constant interaction between government and industry for easier compliance of regulations for the apparel industry were discussed. The agenda of the meeting was to understand the critical issues that the apparel industry is facing and existing entrepreneurial growth in this sector. The presentation also addressed the lack of sufficient industrial training institutes. Key highlights m Discussion on attracting investments in the apparel sector through happening Haryana: Global Investor’s Summit m Skilling and employing: Priority of the government in the apparel sector m Setting up of more Industrial Training Institutes (ITIs) is the need of the hour 116 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
“We have made a mark in apparel export all over the world. We are the seventh largest apparel exporter in the globe and the industry is growing at the rate of 3.50 per cent. Haryana is the upcoming destination for investment in apparel industry and is turning into an apparel hub. I would like Gurgaon to become an apparel brand like Surat and Varanasi. The Government of Haryana will support the budding entrepreneurs and will provide favourable environment to them. We will gear up and address the critical issues of the industry to motivate entrepreneurship and provide investment in apparel industry,” said PK Das. “We are happy that Happening Haryana has apparel sector as an area of investment in Haryana. I appreciate the initiative taken by the Government of Haryana in taking up the industry issues. The apparel sector has its share of problems; investment would increase by leaps and bounds once the government takes steps towards eradication of these problems. We have collaborated with state government in various areas and we are constantly in touch with them to help apparel industry grow further,” said Ashok G Rajani, Chairman, AEPC. The apparel sector is growing at a rapid pace though there are some hindrances which need to be addressed by the government says HKL Magu Some of the hindrances according to Magu are: m The prevalence of inspector raaj. The industry despite being the least polluting one has to bear the brunt of regular summoning and notices from the pollution boards and such other officers. m The burden of ESI proves to be difficult for new industrialists and the Haryana Government should ease it out by paying the industrialists share of ESI for the first five years as is done by the Governments of Karnataka and Gujarat. It will be a great boost to the industrialists.
G:Pockets
www.indiantextilejournal.com
elicate embroidery grounds continue to be in vogue. Fabric producers are selling transparent, extremely fine, tulle fabrics in the global clothing and lingerie sectors and are constantly demanding new creations in order to stimulate demand even more. Companies that want to operate successfully on the market can no longer rely on conventional three-stitch hexagonal tulle. The results of the latest development work to produce patterned embroidery grounds were just one of the things on show in the trends section of the Interfilière show, held between July 4-6 in Paris. The beautiful fabrics featured dense, filet-like constructions made from extremely fine yarns, as well as loose, irregular meshes with an organic look. Alongside these were various honeycomb designs, as well as austere, geometrical tulle constructions, Spotnet fabrics and embroidery grounds featuring Multibar designs. The wide variety of grounds may have a simplistic look with no additional decoration, or else they may be used to create additional design elements, or may appear as shadow effects of the embroidered motifs. The impetus for the new, fine embroidery grounds is not only coming from the manufacturers, but also from KARL MAYER, the company that makes the machines. Since the end of 2013, the textile developers in this innovative company have been designing delicate fabrics that will enable its customers to break new ground. The new embroidery grounds are produced in a gauge of E 32 instead of the normal E 28, and an HKS 3-M machine is used to produce them. This high-speed warp knitting machine with three guide bars can reach speeds of 2,000 to 2,500 min-1 and, therefore, offers a much greater level of productivity than the raschel machines normally used to produce embroidery grounds. A working width of 210” enables manufacturers to achieve an even greater level of productivity.
Stretch, embroidered honeycomb tulle The development work carried out at KARL MAYER has
GARMENTS
Everything revolves around tulle D
resulted in the development of embroidery grounds whose completely new, open tulle constructions are particularly striking, thanks to a clever feature of the lapping. The key element of this clever patterning technology is the close linking of adjacent pillar stitch wales by two counternotation weft links. This firm coupling makes the paired yarn pieces look identical and solves one of the patterning limitations of high-speed tricot machines when producing tulle: the length of the holes in the pore structure is restricted by the technology. With the two-in-one, pillarstitch wale construction, stretch honeycomb patterns can be worked, as can patterns having asymmetrical waffle constructions, holes of different size and intermittent connecting pieces, as well as a combination of all of these. The new and varied tulle constructions developed by KARL MAYER were then embroidered. A ground made from polyamide monofilaments of 20 den was used to create attractive decorative patterns using pattern yarns. The stable yarn enables delicate textiles to be embroidered without any problems, despite their filigree construction, and even dense motifs can be embroidered. This was confirmed by KARL MAYER’s partners, Surbhi Industries Limited and Bischoff Textil GmbH, who were responsible for embroidering the tulle. For further information: www.karlmayer.com
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The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 117
Report
$UFKURPD '.7( VLJQ HGXFDWLRQ SDUWQHUVKLS Under the terms of the partnership, Archroma will provide training sessions as well as technical support and guidance to the students of the institute.
Photo courtesy: DKTE
A DKTE College, Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur, India.
Photo courtesy: Archroma Photo courtesy: DKTE
118 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
The partnership was officially announced at a ceremony held recently in Mumbai in the presence of Archroma’s CEO, Alexander Wessels and DKTE’s Principal, Prof (Dr) PV Kadole. Under the terms of the partnership Archroma will provide training sessions as well as technical support and guidance to the students of the institute. In particular, DKTE’s students will have access to some of Archroma’s technical laboratories in India and Switzerland for projects, experiments and trials.
Inauguration ceremony on February 11 in presence of (L-R): Alexander Wessels, CEO OF Archroma; Anjani Prasad, Archroma’s Head of Sales, Textile Specialties, India; Prof AI Dr Wasif, Professor in Textile Chemistry, Former Principal of DKTE; and Prof CA Patil, Dean of DKTE.
DKTE new Center of Excellence for Nonwovens, Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur, India.
rchroma, a global leader in colour and specialty chemicals, and DKTE Society’s Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji for Technical Textiles (DKTE), based in Kolhapur, India, announced that they have entered into a five-year partnership aiming at sharing Archroma’s globally recognised expertise in the area of technical textiles and nonwovens with the institute’s faculty and students.
The students will also benefit from access to a range of functional products with application and performance characteristics critical to the industry, allowing them to gain hands-on training and learning, and help develop innovative solutions for new industry entrants. The DKTE’s faculty has already expressed special interest in Archroma’s Nuva® N water and oil repellent solutions, Pekoflam® non-halogenated flame retardant, Sanitized® antimicrobials, Appretan® solutions for textile strength and flexibility, or Hydroperm® hydrophilisising agent. Anjani Prasad, Archroma’s Head of Sales, Textile Specialties, India, commented: “At Archroma, we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. With this partnership, we want to take a new approach to knowledge sharing and help to prepare a new generation of textile experts to the opportunities and challenges of our industry.” “Thanks to our collaboration with Archroma, our institute and centre of excellence for nonwovens will be an interface between the industry and consumers in order to improve article effectiveness”, comments Prof (Dr) PV Kadole, Principal, DKTE’s Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji.
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stablished in 1937 as a trading concern by PG Mehta, Swastik offers almost the complete range of textile wet processing & finishing machines from scouring and bleaching to finishing and folding with the latest fully automatic control instruments. The range is for a variety of fabrics made of natural and synthetic fibres, including cotton, polyester, wool, viscose, silk and various type of fabrics like woven, knitted, terry, tubular knitted fabrics, etc. Swastik can also offer wider width machines and special purpose machines to suit all requirements. Though fabric singeing is a well established and long known process, its relevance today to the modern finisher is greater than ever before. The constant demand for better quality fabrics, particularly blended fabrics with their susceptibility to pilling, has lent more attention on the singeing machines. Swastik’s singeing machines, running in the industry for well over 35 years, are suited to process all types of fabrics from lightweight voiles through to heavyweight denims woven from a wide variety of fibres including cotton, polyester, viscose, wool, linen and blends of these as well as other fibres.
a water jacket to keep the burner cool. The top has a specially designed refractory making up the burner chamber to provide uniform gas outlet velocity and thereby uniform flame height throughout the width. Being of a single continuous slit type, the burner provides a continuous, sharp flame.
Brushing and cleaning device
Burner assembly with fabric guide rollers
Swastik singeing machines are equipped with adjustable contact cleaning device, with AC motor directly connected to the brush rollers. A swivelling arrangement permits minimum to maximum contact with brush roller for different kinds of fabrics. An efficient dust collection system is provided just below the brush rollers, which is connected to a powerful suction unit. A large dust collector can be provided with a suitable duct.
Air-gas mixing chamber and adjustable water cooled rollers are for obtaining different fabric- flame position, which permits desired types of singeing effect on different quality of fabrics with minor adjustments. Super singe machines are equipped with a push button ignition system using sparking rods with a high voltage transformer. Swastik’s singeing machines are designed to obtain different singeing effects such as hard singeing, medium singeing and soft singeing to suit all kinds of fabric processing. This is achieved by adjusting the guide roller positions with respect to the flame. Swastik’s singeing machines are equipped with a unique system, which pushes the burner away, simultaneously turning it 90° and cutting off the gas supply, in case of power failure (see drawing). Singeing Machine can, optionally, also be equipped with a device which operates when fabric tension is greatly reduced, by switching off the power supply to the machine.
Burner The flame of a conventional gas burner is not free from imperfect combustion and unevenness of temperature due to old and outdated burner construction. This normally makes it almost impossible to ensure uniform singeing nor does it help appreciably in case of dyeing character, strength, etc. of delicate and/or synthetic fibres. Swastik’s specially designed gas burner has been built based on long experience and careful study aimed at overcoming such troubles and to ensure the best singeing results for a wide range of fabrics such as cotton-rayonwool and synthetic or blended fabrics. The burner of the singeing machine is a slit type burner with a carbon steel body. Burner body is specially designed to provide gas flow at uniform pressure/velocity throughout the width. Gas outlet section of the burner is further provided with
Special characteristics of the machine m The machine is equipped with two slit type burners. The burners as well as the fabric guiding rollers are provided with water cooling arrangement. The cloth can be threaded so as to allow singeing on either one or both sides. m Water cooled adjustable rollers immediately after The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 119
DYE & PROCESS
Swastik’s gas singeing machine E
D&P Shades m
m m m m
m m m
burners to obtain soft, medium or high singeing effect. Burners are equipped with a special ratio control valve to ensure optimum air and gas mixture for best flame even if there is variation in the inlet line. An operation sequence controller is provided to ensure safety and correct operation. Machine is supplied with an efficient filtration arrangement for air and gas. In case of power failure, both burners tilt away from the fabric simultaneously. The burners can be easily cleaned using the special arrangement provided. Slit width, flame length and intensity adjustments are provided to ensure best singeing results over a broad spectrum of fabric quality and weight. High singeing speeds, infinitely variable between 80-150 m/min. Excellent and uniform singeing effect with economical gas consumption. Pre-heating cylinders of stainless steel construction can
be provided for incoming fabric which will help remove inherent moisture from the fabric to attain better singeing results. m High efficiency brushing and beating rollers are provided for pre-brushing and post- brushing of the fabric. The dust extraction unit is also provided. m De-size impregnation tank can be provided with dosing tank and temperature control arrangements with light squeeze arrangement for optimum pick-up. m Steam quenching device is provided on machines not equipped with desize impregnation tank. For further information: Swastik Textile Engineers Pvt. Ltd. Swastik Premises, Amraiwadi, Ahmedabad - 380 026. Tel.: (+91) (79) 2274 3553, 2274 9068, 6543 5017 Email: info@swastiktextile.com Web: www.swastiktextile.co
Santexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest textile finishing machines S antex Textile Division showcased Santasynpact, the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest addition to the Santex family of knits finishing machines during one of the major textile events during the end of last year. The machine was developed in order to provide the highest performance and best fabric quality with minimum production costs, according to the manufacturer.
Santasynpact finishing machine Santasynpact is a combination of rubber belt shrinkage and felt belt compacting unit in one line with levelling frame at the entry. The fully integrated design avoids long distances where fabric runs unsupported, the company reports. This can be an important factor where elongation and width variations need to be avoided.
With this new development, compaction results are said to be significantly improved and at production speeds are 2-3 times higher than conventional felt compacting systems, the manufacturer reports. Santex will show the latest version with special designed felt belt features to ensure the sensitive handling of cotton or cotton blended knits and to maximise performance.
Technical properties Electronic force measuring rollers are at every regulation position, providing total control over fabric tension, extremely gentle fabric handling and allowing settings to be stored in a recipe for added repeatability. Independent left and right chain speeds, manual weft straightener and independently variable central fabric support belt speed is said to provide extra flexibility in fabric handling and if desired, course angle adjustment. The automatic belt grinding system is designed to reduce operator error and extend the efficiency and production life of the belt. For further information: Santex AG Fliegeneggstrasse 9 CH - 9555 Tobel, Switzerland Tel: +41 71 918 66 66 Email: santex@santex-group.com Web: www.santex-group.com
120 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
www.indiantextilejournal.com
ordeaux Digital PrintInk, an industry leader in developing and manufacturing high quality inks and coatings for the wide format and textile printing industry, will introduce its expanding digital printing possibilities as part of Bordeaux’s philosophy to provide costume made solutions to all print shop’s needs. Bordeaux’s new rising star in the digital textile arena – a new water based pigment ink for all fabrics accompanied with its longtime industry leading printer specific inks, offers a true wind of change to the digital market. As a continuous effort to offer a wide range of inkjet solutions, Bordeaux recognised the need to simplify digital processes for textile and developed one pigment ink that can print on all types of fabrics and in a single process. This novel solution allows textile print shops to offer their customers prints for every type of textile application, from home decoration to garments. Visitors at Bordeaux’s Stand S150, Hall7 in FESPA were able to see all of its ink solutions come to live with the endless printing applications. Visitors were able to see unique applications printed with UV and solvent printer specific ink solutions. In addition, for the first time at FESPA, Bordeaux introduced the printing possibilities with the new pigment ink for textiles. “As part of our continuous commitment to develop comprehensive yet simple solutions to the digital printing industry, we added a new product to our leading textile inks solutions and expended it with the game changing pigment ink,” said Guy Evron, Director of Marketing at Bordeaux. “Visitors of our stand at Fespa were able to see first-hand examples of the endless applications Bordeaux
various inks offer -- from wide format signs, through textile application and printing on challenging substrates for industrial applications, all with the quality our customers expected of our inks.” Bordeaux Digital Printink is the developer, manufacturer and distributor of customer-focused premium inks and comprehensive solutions for all wide format inkjet technologies, printers, the graphic arts and the textile industry. The company’s products are recognised worldwide as highly reliable and cost-effective inkjet inks and coatings for wide and super wide digital printers such as Roland® , Mimaki®, Mutoh®, Epson®, Océ®, Fujifilm® , HP® and Seiko™ as well as for all latest printhead technologies including Epson®, Xaar®, Konica Minolta®, Toshibav and many more. The company’s wide format solutions focus on printer specific inks designed for full compatibility with the printers. In addition, Bordeaux offers a comprehensive range of liquid laminates and UV coatings for wide format graphics, vehicle wrappings and document finishing. The company’s textile solution focuses on one ink to match all types of fabrics including 100 per cent cotton, blended, polyester, leather, viscose and silk. For further information: Bordeaux Printing Technologies Email: nufar.k@c-m-y-k.com
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 121
DYE & PROCESS
Bordeaux’s new concept for digital printing B
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EVENTS CALENDAR
APRIL 2016
Screen Print India 2016 May 6-8, 2016, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai
11th Fibres & Yarns Expo April 7-9, 2016, WTC,
Evteks
Mumbai
May 17-21, 2016, CNR Expo Centre, Istanbul, Turkey
Fibres & Yarns Expo
JUNE 2016
April 7-9, 2016, WTC,
Non Woven Tech Asia 2016
Mumbai
June 2-4, 2016
TECHNOTEX-2016
Hall 5, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India
April 21-23, 2016 Bombay Exhibition Centre,
ITM 2016
Mumbai
June 1-4, 2016 TUYAP Fair, Convention and Congress Center, Turkey
FESPA Brasil 2016 April 6-9, 2016,
HIGHTEX 2016
Expo Center Norte,
June 1-4, 2016,
São Paulo, Brazil
Istanbul-Büyükçekmece Tüyap Fair and Congress Center, Turkey
International Textile Fair
WOW 2016
April 16-17, 2016
June 7-10, 2016, Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers,
Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Center, Dubai
Chicago. Web: www.inda.org
Home Expo India April 16-18, 2016
Heimtextil India 2016
India Expo Centre & Mart, New Delhi
June 22-24, 2016 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi
FESPA Southern European Congress
JULY 2016
April 19-20, 2016, Milan, Italy
HGH India 2016 The 7th Hong Kong Intl Home Textiles and Furnishing Fair 2016
July 1-3, 2016, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai
April 20-23, 2016 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong
MAY 2016 IDEA16
AUGUST 2016 Intertextile Shanghai - Autumn Edition August 24-27, Andrew Choi Tel: +852 2230 9217, Fax: +852 2598 7919
May 2-5, 2016, Boston Convention and Exposition Centre,
Email: andrew.choi@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com
USA
Web: www.messefrankfurt.com.hk
Texprocess Americas
16th Textile Asia International Trade Fair 2016
May 3-5, 2016, Atlanta, Georgia
August 27-29, 2016, Lahore Expo Center, Pakistan Mob: +92-331-2376515, Email: info@textileasia.com.pk
Texprocess Americas 2016 May 3-5, 2016, Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta
HOMETEX IRAN 17-19 August 2016, Tehran, Iran
Techtextil North America 2016
Contact: PINE Experiential Events Pvt Ltd, Bangalore, India
May 3-5, 2016, Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta
Mob: +91 8105007568, Web: www.pineex.com
124 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
August 31 - September 3, 2016
10 India ITME 2016
Bangabandhu International Conference Centre, Dhaka, Bangladesh
December 3-8, 2016
th
Bombay Exhibition Centre,
SEPTEMBER 2016 FESPA Africa 2016
Mumbai
Testing, Standards and Applications on Geosynthetics
September 7-9, 2016 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg, South Africa
December 2, 2015, The Bombay Textile Research Association,
OCTOBER 2016
Mumbai
FILTECH
FESPA Eurasia 2016
October 11-13, 2016, Cologne, Germany
December 8-11, 2016 CNR Expo, Istanbul,
Cinte Techtextil China
Turkey
October 12-14, 2016 Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai
NOVEMBER 2016
SEPTEMBER 2017 techtextil India September 13-15, 2017
International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens
Bombay Exhibition Centre,
November 10-12, 2016, Delhi
Mumbai
The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016 125
EVENTS CALENDAR
DECEMBER 2016
17th Textech Bangladesh 2016 International Expo
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49 21
Peass Industrial Engineers Pvt Ltd Picanol N.V Prashant Gamatex Pvt Ltd Premier Evolvics Pvt Ltd Cover
C Coker & Associates Of SC, LLC Colorjet India Ltd
D D V Prabhakar Dynamic Autolooms India Pvt Ltd
27 Cover - IV
6
43 23 5 -I
R Rieter India Pvt Ltd
13
S
E Elgi Electric & Industries Limited Embee Corporation Eppinger Tooling Asia Pvt Ltd Excel Traders
9 128 41 87
F Fab Industries
Marvel Gloves Industries Inner Cover - II Mohler Machine Works Pvt Ltd 8
Inner Cover - II
I India ITME - 2016
67
J Jacobi Machinery Pvt Ltd Jogindra Industries Pvt Ltd
15 71
91 35
L Labelmach 103 Lakshmi Machine Works Limited Cover - III Laxmi Shuttleless Looms Pvt Ltd 17 Leuze Electronic Pvt Ltd 85 Loepfe Brothers Ltd Cover - II 126 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
57 65 51 11 55 69
T Technotex - 2016 / FICCI 12 Teknik Fairs Limited Company - ITM 2016 115 Texfab Engineers (I) Pvt Ltd 19 TEXFAIR 2016 14 Thymas Electronics Pvt Ltd 111 Trishual Overseas 89
U
K K.U.Sodalamuthu & Co Pvt Ltd Key Textile Accessories Pvt Ltd
Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt Ltd Savio Texcone (P) Ltd Shail International Pvt Ltd SMEW Textile Machinery Pvt Ltd SRE Corporation Sri Lakshmi Fire Controls
U.V.Textile Machines Pvt Ltd Union Textile Industries Uster Technnologies AG
29 75 45
V Velvet Jet
33
W Weavtech Engineering Pvt Ltd
77
128 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016
Date of publication 26th of every month Postal Registration No. TN/CH(C)/282/15-17 - Licensed to post without Prepayment No. TN/PMG(CCR)WPP-489/2015-17 Posted at Egmore RMS/1 Patrika Channel Registered with the Registrar of Newspaper for India R.N. No. 1830/57
Edited by S Joseph; published for IPFonline Limited, First Floor, Canara Bank Building, 103, Greams Road, Thousand Lights, Chennai - 600 006, by Tarun Gajarajsingh Pal and printed by V Ramesh at Chennai Micro Print (P) Ltd: 34 Nelson Manickam Road, Aminjikarai, Chennai 600 029. 130 The Indian Textile Journal | April 2016