2021 / 22 EDITION
i n s p i r e d
start your creative career here
b e
your future your future your future your future your future your future your future your future
STYLer
The National Hair & Beauty Federation has over 6500 Members and is the largest trade body for the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The NHBF focuses on helping salons/barbershops to run success and profitable businesses. To find out more visit
www.nhbf.co.uk
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w e l c o m e a n d c o n t e n t s / 2021-22 career styler
Editor’s word
contents 01 WELCOME TO YOUR FUTURE CAREER 02 YOUR CAREER JOURNEY
T
he team at Concept Hair are so excited to welcome you to the first ever Concept Hair Career Styler. Are you looking to work in a creative, fashionled industry that is regularly voted one of the happiest professions to work in? Well, hairdressing is that career and you are in the right place to discover just how incredibly inspirational the world of hairdressing is. As you’ll see when you read this publication, hairdressing is a career that can take you along so many paths, whether you want to work in a busy salon making clients feel fabulous, specialise in colour or textured hair, work with a leading brand as an ambassador or teach others how to be great stylists, hairdressing offers all these opportunities and more. We hope the Career Styler will open your eyes to how fabulous a career in hairdressing can be and inspire you to work towards your goals. Welcome to your future!
Matthew Batham
04 WE LOVE HAIRDRESSING 06 ROLE CALL 07 BARBER WITH WAHL
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11 BARBERSHOP COOL 13 BRAND AMBASSADOR WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS
17 BUILDING YOUR BRAND 19 COLOUR SPECIALIST WITH L’Oréal PROFESSIONnEL PARIS
22 HISTORY OF COLOUR 24 EDUCATOR WITH SALON PROMOTIONS
Cover image credits
29 PRESENTATION SKILLS
Hair by: Pedro_Plastic Products: Pulp Riot Semi Permanent Aquatic, Powder, Lilac, Velvet, Cupid, Fireball, Firefly, Area 51
31 FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER WITH INDOLA 35 HOW TO MARKET YOURSELF 37 SALON MANAGER WITH L’Oréal PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS
41 WHAT IS A GREAT LEADER? 43 SESSION STYLIST WITH LISA FARRALL 47 CATWALK TRENDS
EDITOR: MATTHEW BATHAM matthew.batham@sng-publishing.co.uk DIGITAL EDITOR: ALEX SOUTH alex.south@sng-publishing.co.uk SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk
49 GENDER-NEUTRAL HAIRDRESSING
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: PATRICK BLORE patrick.blore@sng-publishing.co.uk
52 JOIN THE CLUB! 55 TEXTURED HAIR SPECIALIST WITH AVLON 59 INCLUSIVE HAIRDRESSING 61 WHAT IS TRICHOLOGY? 64 brand listing
Editor, Concept Hair
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BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: HEATHER THORP heather.thorp@sng-publishing.co.uk OPERATIONS MANAGER: EMILY HILTON emily.hilton@sng-publishing.co.uk MANAGING DIRECTOR: ZOË TANNER zoe.tanner@sng-publishing.co.uk TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: VTCT, Pivot Point PRINTERS: Stephens & George, Wales
DISCLAIMER Career Styler is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Career Styler may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Career Styler. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Career Styler, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Career Styler only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.
www.concepthairmag.co.uk GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to the Career Styler call 0121 606 3016 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk
Search: ConceptHairMag
© SNG Publishing Ltd, 2021
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career styler 2021-22 / C a r e e r J o u r n e y
Your Journey to Success
Your career in hairdressing will be a creative journey, with so many opportunities to explore.
H
airdressing is a vibrant and varied career, offering so many pathways to success. Here’s how your creative career in hairdressing could pan out. Enjoy the adventure!
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Your apprenticeship is likely to last around two years after which you will be ready to start working on the salon floor as a graduate stylist.
5
You may decide to enter barbering at the start of your career. If you do, you’ll be entering a boom sector, with barbershops being the fastest growing sector within hair and beauty.
When the salon owner or manager feels you are ready, you will move on to be a fullyfledged stylist, building a column of clients and creating a name for yourself as a talented professional.
Ruffians
3
After school or college, many new hairdressers will begin their career with an apprenticeship within a salon or salon group. Many will attend college as part of an apprenticeship. This is a great way to learn the craft of hairdressing and develop your skills.
scan here
02
OF
spotlight award
ARNE
TH
R
SCHOOL
E
AR
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Start entering competitions now! Competitions are a great way to hone your skills and get creative. Concept Hair has two competitions running every year — The School Spotlight Award, for those aged 14-16 or studying hairdressing at secondary school, and Learner of the Year, which is open to further education college students and apprentices. Scan the QR code to find out more.
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If you’re reading this, you are likely to already be studying hairdressing at secondary school or at a further education college. These are both great ways to build basic skills and create a solid foundation for your future career.
E YE
C a r e e r J o u r n e y / 2021-22 career styler
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As your career progresses, you might want to think about adding to your skill set, focusing on areas such as colour and creating stunning looks, like this one (below), on your clients.
educators
“We know it will be an inspirational and creative journey”
HOB Academy
9
Once you have gained an all-round skill set, you could choose to specialise, in Afro hairdressing for example, or simply choose to keep broadening your skill base so that you become the go-to hairdresser for clients with all hair types.
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Many people in hairdressing choose to take a managerial route, either managing a salon for someone else or investing in their own. The salon industry is pretty robust, so investing in a business is definitely worth thinking about further down the line.
Craig Chapman
colour
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Within a few years you should progress to being a senior stylist and have a column of loyal clients. And with all the confidence you have built up over the years, your skills can also take you along other routes. You could move into session styling, for example, and gain experience working backstage at fashion shows or on editorial shoots.
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Many hairdressers will speak in front of audiences while demonstrating their skills on models. Platform work, as this is known, is something undertaken by brand ambassadors, educators and also by members of artistic teams representing a salon or salon group.
creative
Whatever path your career in hairdressing takes, we know it will be an inspirational and creative journey!
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Anne Veck
Safy B
Toni and Guy
career styler 2021-22 / W e L o v e H a i r d r e s s i n g
More than just a job Don’t just take our word for what an incredible career hairdressing can be. Here’s what a selection of successful hair pros had to say about why they love what they do.
W
hatever stage your career in hairdressing is at, it can offer incredible opportunities to keep you inspired and motivated. We spoke to hairdressers of all ages and experience levels about why they love working in the hair industry.
R I HA S O R P
ABBIE JOHNSON
MICHELLE THOMPSON
Stylist, Mark Leeson, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire
Educator and Afro Hair Specialist, Francesco Group, Birmingham
“There was never an alternative career for me other than hairdressing. I’m fortunate that I am working for a salon that truly cares about educating their trainees and offering a genuine career path to follow. Since joining Mark Leeson, I’ve truly been mentored in all aspects of hairdressing – so much so that they gave me the opportunity to create my own photographic collection this year which reached the finals of the British Hairdressing Awards Newcomer of the Year category.”
“I started in hairdressing at the age of 14 when I got a Saturday job in a salon. I’m so glad that I made that decision at such a young age. I qualified when I was 19 and haven’t stopped since. One of the best things about this industry is the opportunities it has given me. I have travelled the world doing photoshoots, shows, seminars, celebrity work and education – most recently in my new role as a guest artist for ghd. I have also been awarded for my work, including entering the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame in 2019 for winning Afro Hairdresser of the Year three times. It feels incredible to win awards for doing something that I’m so passionate about.”
“I’ve truly been mentored in all aspects of hairdressing”
“It feels incredible to win awards for doing something that I’m so passionate about”
@itzjohnsonn
@michellethompsonhair
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W e L o v e H a i r d r e s s i n g / 2021-22 career styler
KATE DRURY
HOLLY MATHESON
KATE DRURY
Assistant, Adam Reed, London
Stylist, MODE Hair, Chipping Campden
“I can’t even explain what it feels like to have chosen hairdressing as a career. I love it so much, it doesn’t even feel like work. I enjoy working with like-minded individuals who all have the same goal – to generate smiles from clients and to go out on a limb to ensure that they are fully motivated from dawn until dusk. Since working with Adam Reed, my whole world has opened up. I’m encouraged to enter competitions and I’m an integral member of the team when we do shows, photoshoots and TV work – no two days are the same.”
“I love it so much, it doesn’t even feel like work”
@hairbyholls_
“The thing I love most about my job is building up a rapport with my regular clients. I’ve been at MODE Hair for almost five years now and it genuinely feels like I come to work to cut my friends’ hair. It is so rewarding when clients love what you do and they walk out feeling amazing. It really is wonderful to know you make such a difference to so many people’s confidence.”
“It is so rewarding when clients love what you do”
@katieedrury
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Continued…
career styler 2021-22 / R O L E C A L L
Role call BARBER
A specialist in men’s hair with a strong foundation in classic short hair cutting and styling.
BRAND AMBASSADOR
A hairdresser who works for a specific brand, representing their products at events, doing presentations and promoting them online.
COLOUR SPECIALIST
Colour specialists focus on creating beautiful colour for their clients, working alongside talented haircutters.
EDUCATOR
A hairdressing educator passes on their skill and knowledge of the hairdressing craft to others.
Here are some of the roles you could take on during your career.
FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER
SESSION STYLIST
A freelance hairdresser works for themselves. They might have an at-home salon, visit their clients’ home, rent a chair in a salon, or do a range of jobs all on a self-employed basis.
Being a session stylist is an often highpressure, exciting role, working backstage at fashion shows, behind the scenes on TV sets or on magazine photographic shoots.
SALON MANAGER
TEXTURED HAIR SPECIALIST
SALON STYLIST
Some hairdressers decide to expand their expertise and study trichology, which is the science of hair and hair health.
A salon manager is responsible for the smooth running of a salon business, including keeping the team motivated, ensuring the salon is lucrative and that their clients are having the best possible experience.
Textured hair has very specific needs and while all hairdressers should understand these, some hairdressers decide to focus on looking after clients with Afro or heavily textured hair.
TRICHOLOGIST
Many begin their career as an apprentice, progressing to graduate stylist, where they will look after clients, usually with a more experienced mentor’s support. From here they can move up the ranks to senior stylist, looking after a busy column of loyal clients.
There are even more job roles than these, which you could embrace during your career, including being an extensionist, specialising in the application and styling of extensions, or you could become an art director within a salon group, overseeing all the more creative elements of a salon brand. The opportunities are endless!
“The opportunities are endess!”
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barber sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r A D V E R T O R I A L
barber
Meet Alan Beak, a renowned barber, Creative Consultant to Wahl and Owner of the iconic RUGER brand, which boasts three locations in and around Manchester. Concept Hair: What does being a barber mean to you?
CH: Why did you become a barber?
Alan Beak: I like to think of myself as a Swiss army barber. I have multiple uses and numerous obligations within my role as a barber. Firstly, I work for my own brand, called RUGER, which was established in 2014 with my younger brother Reece. Over the last seven years, we have managed to develop the brand over three shops, a worldwide education programme, and a global distribution company of bespoke hair grooming products. I also work with some of the biggest and best companies in our field, including Wahl. I have always worked very closely with them, testing products, performing on stage, and providing education.
AB: I’ve always been a social person who thrives in a busy and personal environment. I love knowing people’s stories, getting to know them, and watching clients grow from being young and scared of having their haircut, to being excited to come to the shop.
“I love knowing people’s stories”
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“I’ve travelled all around the world”
S p o n s o r A D V E R T O R I A L / 2021-22 career styler
Alan’s Top Tips for Becoming a Barber
1
The key elements to success are hard work, persistence and patience
2 3 4
Always work harder than anyone else in the room Don’t stop until you’ve reached your goals Build relationships, remain driven and the results will be worth it in the end.
CH: How did your career as a barber progress? AB: I first started working in a barbershop at the age of 12, which was very young. I helped orchestrate everything except for cutting hair, and always made sure that as soon as a barber had finished cutting hair, the next client was ready. At the age of 19, I decided to go into hospitality, returning to barbering at the age of 21. I knew that to become successful, I needed to perform at a certain level as quickly as possible. I started at a local college and studied in my own time, while also working full-time in a barbershop.
I would practise techniques at home with a block in front of the TV. Building relationships with clients and letting them see my work on social media was imperative, giving them the confidence to allow me to cut their hair. Over time my clientele grew and grew. CH: What personality traits make a good barber? AB: Whether you are a good conversationalist, initiate chat, or just a good listener, being a great communicator is imperative. I’ve seen many haircuts go wrong because of bad communication. CH: What do you love most about your job? AB: The thing I find most fulfilling as a barber, as cheesy as it sounds, is how a client automatically smiles as you finish the haircut. You can turn a bad day into a good one. CH: What have been your career highlights so far? AB: There have been many highlights in my career. I’ve travelled all around the world and met some amazing people — some very famous. The wealth and fame of a client isn’t
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important to me, a client is a client. I can be cutting the hair of somebody who is a global household name one day and then cutting hair for free in a nursing home the next. Being trusted with the role of creative consultant for Wahl was massive for me and something that I have worked for and wanted for many years.
b a r b e r s h o p c o o l / 2021-22 career styler
Barbershop cool
From retro to minimalist, barbershops are the height of cool with the new generation flocking to work in them and clients clamouring for their services.
JOE AND CO
MANIFESTO
Soho, London
Kings Cross and Holborn, London
Joe and Co has become a familiar name in London’s Soho where the brand has been trading for 10 years. During lockdown, Joe and Co relocated to new premises and introduced a totally different look for the brand. Formerly known for its minimalist/industrial décor, the new Joe and Co screams luxury. There’s still a lot of upcycled furniture but warmth has been added with plenty of slate and wood.
www.joeandco.net
Founded by session stylist Mikey Pearson and Corrado Tevere, the man behind progressive salon group, Radio London, Manifesto was always going to bring something different to the table. Now with salons based in two of London’s coolest districts – Leather Lane, Holborn and Coal Drops Yard, Kings Cross – Manifesto continues to push the boundaries of men’s hairdressing. Both salons have a modern look, featuring natural materials and low lights, all designed to create a relaxing haven for its clients.
www.man-ifesto.com
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B
arbershops are the biggest growth area within hair and beauty, with barbers moving with the times to offer spaces that are cool but inviting. Some go for a retro look with a modern twist, others are all-out contemporary. It’s all about offering the modern man a choice, as these super-cool barbershops show.
SAVILLS BARBERS Sheffield
Cool doesn’t always mean modern, and Savills Barbers is proof of that. The stunning space is a treasure trove of barbering antiques collected over Owner, Joth Davies’ 33-year career. Everything in the shop has a story attached, and Joth could tell you where it came from, who gave it to him, where he bought it and how much he paid for it. The style of the shop started with a love of the architecture, films and clothing from the 1920s. It’s timeless in its appeal and very classy.
www.savillsbarbers.com
career styler 2021-22 / b a r b e r s h o p c o o l
RUFFIANS Edinburgh
Ruffians’ Scottish outpost, in Edinburgh, is where the company was founded in 2012. Ruffians has been a staple of the city’s West End, with a cult status among the locals and the affluent student population. Often referred to as a pioneer of the modern barbering revolution, the Ruffians name and brand identity is instantly recognisable in the world of professional barbering. The classic interior of this store with contemporary touches has come to define Ruffians.
n r e d mobering r a b “Ruffians is a pioneer of the modern barbering revolution”
In The Know
A junior barber will earn around
An experienced barber can earn up to
per year
per year
£20k
£50k
According to the
There are around
The number of UK barbershops grew by
barbershops in the UK
between 2015 and the end of 2020
14,805 www.ruffians.co.uk
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76%
Brand ambassador sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r A D V E R T O R I A L
Brand ambassador
Meet James Earnshaw, a leading creative hairdresser and Wella Professionals’ Digital Colour Ambassador.
Concept Hair: Tell us a little about your job as a brand ambassador.
CH: How did you choose the brand you’ve aligned yourself with?
James Earnshaw: I have such a varied role, which is why I love it. From day to day, I could be doing anything, including creating social media content, shooting campaigns or launching new products at events. It is literally different every week.
JE: To me Wella Professionals has the best colour portfolio of any colour brand, so it’s very easy to work with and was my number one choice. It just felt like a natural fit for me as I love the product. The brand itself has such an amazing team, including the brand team who I am lucky enough to work with all the time, to the amazing educators in the studios who are all so passionate and great to work with. They really have given me so many opportunities as a freelancer, so it’s a great fit.
CH: Why did you want to be a hairdresser? JE: I don’t remember wanting to be anything else. A Channel 4 TV show called The Salon was on when I was at school and it really inspired me to be part of the industry. CH: At what point in your career did you decide to become a brand ambassador? JE: I had wanted to be an ambassador for Wella Professionals ever since I opened my first Color Touch shade chart in 2007! I just worked my way up by entering awards like Wella TrendVision and The British Hairdressing Awards to really get myself noticed. I focused on growing my social media presence and in 2020 I was finally able to become an official Wella Professionals’ ambassador.
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“I focused on growing my social media presence”
S p o n s o r A D V E R T O R I A L / 2021-22 career styler
James’s Top Tips for Becoming a Brand Ambassador
1 2 3 4
Work as hard as you can to be the best hairdresser you can be. Your skills are so important Have a powerful social media presence Be a nice person and friendly to everyone you meet in the industry Stay true to yourself, but be prepared to compromise.
CH: What skills do you need to be a good brand ambassador? JE: Being able to adapt yourself, and being able to think on your feet. It’s important to stay true to your personal brand, while tweaking things to meet the needs of the brand you are an ambassador for. CH: What do you love most about your job? JE: I think working hard on a project with the brand team, working alongside makeup artists and photographers and then seeing the finished result. We have created so much content ready for 2022, the start of the year is really going to kick off with a bang!
CH: What personality traits make a good brand ambassador? JE: Passion, determination and being easy to work with. CH: What are the biggest challenges you face as a brand ambassador? JE: I don’t really come up against many challenges as I love my job so much. I find everything fun. Although, keeping my tint brush as neat as possible for tutorial videos can be tricky at times! CH: What have been your career highlights as a brand ambassador? JE: It’s all coming in 2022! I got to shoot a global campaign for something new, which I never thought I would get to do so soon into my role. So stay tuned!
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“I have such a varied role, which is why I love it”
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Don’t forget to book onto the NEW ‘Mastering Grey’ studio course and online seminar.
*Combining: Free of perfume and alkalisers such as ammonia or ethanolamine oxidative grey pigments pH7
B r a n d B u i l d i n g / 2021-22 career styler
Brand new you
What is a brand and how can you start building it from the start of your career and throughout your career journey? Journalist and hairdressing PR expert, Emma Summersby, has the answers.
EMMA SUMMERSBY Journalist and hairdressing PR expert
A
great starting point for building a brand is to ensure that everything you do is aligned – you need a brand to offer consistency. People need to know what your brand stands for and that it will always deliver to the same standard. Once you have this, you will start to create trust, recognition and loyalty.
“You can be your own brand!”
WHAT IS A BRAND?
A brand doesn’t have to be a giant company. Sure, there are some massive brands in hairdressing, but there are plenty of successful hairdressers, young and old, who are doing a great job of creating a brand out of themselves. You can be your own brand!
WHAT TO THINK ABOUT
Later in your career you may well decide to invest in your own salon. Knowing what your brand values are will be crucial to its success. If you’re trying to build a salon that specialises in high-end, expensive colour, for example, then everything about the salon from the very first touch point that the customer has, must shout this message.
You’ll need to make sure the people working for you are completely clear who their customer is and what the ethos of the company is. They need to dress and present themselves in the right way — in short, they need to look the part and reflect the brand. Everything about the salon will need to reflect luxury – the logo, the magazines in the waiting area, the coffee that’s served, the message on the answerphone – literally every single touch point matters when you are building a brand.
Continued…
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career styler 2021-22 / B r a n d B u i l d i n g
BUILDING BRAND YOU
Building your brand as an individual is no different. The rules are the same. Think about the brand you want to be known as and stick to it. Ensure that every element of what you do reflects your brand. If you want to create a high-end luxury brand, then you need to look polished, well-groomed and have impeccable attention to detail. The language you use, the models you use, the hair you create and the teams that you work with all need to be aligned to your brand. Equally, if you’re all about cool street style, you need to portray this at every step of your hairdressing journey.
GET SOCIAL
Your social channels are probably the easiest way to build your very own brand these days. It’s a free platform to showcase your expertise and can get you noticed in a major way. However, think carefully about everything you post. Your colour pallet, your logo, the way you interact, the language you use, the images you publish on your platform – these will all contribute to building your brand.
DON’T BE AFRAID TO SPECIALISE
You need to master as many skills as possible to be an all-round hairdresser, but that doesn’t mean you can’t specialise further down the line and become known as the expert at something. This can be the core of your brand. Whether you’re the curly hair, extensions, blondes or men’s expert – stick to your path and try not to mix it up too much along the way. Remember that everything that can be seen or heard contributes to your brand.
eed to “People n t your a h w w o n k nds for” a t s d n a r b
In The Know TOP TIPS
1
Look at brands both inside and outside of our industry such as
@daisy_goord @marcusrashford and @mollymae. You don’t have to buy into the values of any of these brands, but they are examples of how to get it right!
2
Remember to be consistent across all areas of your brand
— consistency creates loyalty
3
Don’t be afraid to specialise. Your speciality can become
the core of your brand
4
Make sure your social media channels reflect your brand.
r e e r a c rney u o j @emmasummersbymedia
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1
Professional hairdressing products in the UK are worth around £445m, according to market research agency IndustryARC.
2
Brands will be interested in how many social media followers you have.
3 4
Build your social presence and attract a brand’s attention.
Becoming an ambassador for a major brand, could mean your total earnings exceed £100,000 per annum.
Colour SPECIALIST sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r A D V E R T O R I A L
“A colourist needs a willingness to learn and to always stay relevant”
Colour Specialist
Meet Claire Chell, Global Creative Director of leading salon chain, Francesco Group and a hugely respected colour specialist.
Concept Hair: Tell us a little about your job as a colour specialist. Claire Chell: As well as running a busy column of clients twice a week, the main elements of my job include the creation of essential colour techniques based on current trends. I also oversee colour education, the creation of our branded salon imagery, and live shows. My job also takes me behind the scenes on TV shows and backstage at Fashion Week. I have a fabulous creative team FGCREATIVES that I currently lead, I couldn’t ask for a more fabulous job!
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S p o n s o r a d v e r t o r i a l / 2021-22 career styler
CH: What attracted you to a career in hairdressing?
CH: What skills do you need to possess to be a good colour specialist?
CC: I always wanted to be the girl that created the imagery that sat in every hair salon’s shop window.
CC: A colourist needs a willingness to learn and to always stay relevant.
I have always been drawn to hair colour. When I was at school and would have a hairdressing appointment, I remember being mesmerised as I watched the hairdressers bringing their clients’ colour to life. As soon as I could, I started working Saturdays at Francesco Group Uttoxeter, and my apprenticeship and hairdressing career began. CH: At what point in your career did you decide to become a colour specialist? CC: Right from the very beginning I knew colour was for me. When I completed my Level 3 in hairdressing my colour specialist journey began. I enrolled in every colour course I could get on — education is everything and in the world of hair colour, knowledge is paramount. I used all my friends and family to constantly practise on and whenever I was free, I was the first in the salon to grab a hairdressing block or blonde wefts to try out my new colour mixtures or techniques. Practice makes perfect.
As well as utilising our Francesco Group colour courses, I also used courses offered by colour brands. I invested in colour courses with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, such as Colour Keys 1 & 2. This was a great way of updating my foundation and advanced colour knowledge, the natural progression was to then become a colour specialist. CH: What element of your role as a colour specialist do you find most fulfilling? CC: I love a colour transformation or correction. There’s nothing more special than when a client puts 100% trust and faith in you to either transform them or correct their previous hair colour.
videos being filmed over several sittings. Be honest with your clients and break down their colour journey with them, showing examples of realistic colour results along the way. Never over promise and underdeliver! CH: What have been your career highlights as a colour specialist? CC: I’ve always been a creative colourist and entering competitions is a great platform to launch your career within the hair industry. Winning Creative Head magazine’s Most Wanted Colour Expert award has to be up there with my proudest moments. This award meant everything to me as I had entered for many years and not finalised. Every year I asked for feedback on my entry and every year I took on board the judges constructive feedback to improve it.
Get it right and watch your client flourish.
“Get it right and watch your client flourish”
CH: What is the biggest challenge you face as a colour specialist? CC: Social Media often exposes clients to unrealistic transformations happening in minutes. Clients don’t see the reality of these
Claire’s Top Tips for Becoming a Colour Specialist
CH: What personality traits make a good colour specialist? CC: To be a fabulous colourist you need to be fun, creative and above all honest.
1
Education is the key to success. Immerse yourself in as much hair colour education as possible
As hairdressers we like to be people pleasers but at times you may face creative colours or colour corrections on your clients that just aren’t achievable in one sitting. Honesty is always the best policy and having the confidence to talk your client through realistic expectations is very important.
2
Never give up. Nobody said it’s going to be easy, but have faith in yourself and your skill set, and you will be fabulous
3
Have fun along the way. Hairdressing is such a creative and fun industry.
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career styler 2021-22 / h i s t o r y o f c o l o u r
Five Decades of hair Artistry
1980’s
1990’s
2000’s
“Punk was a very big fashion statement in the 1980’s. What fascinated me about punks was that they did things others considered distasteful and contrasting. I wanted to explore re-growth which was often seen as a bad colour, by producing a style where the ends were light with the roots dark, where hair stood up instead of lying flat, and the cut was feathered with a razor instead of using scissors. From this The Wolfman was born.”
“Golden chunky highlights was the colour trend everyone wore in the mid-90’s. This look was inspired by the bold fashion statements of the 90’s and has been interpreted with my favourite modern-day trends including a statement money piece which was prevalent during this decade.”
“In the early 2000’s one of the biggest trends was chunky highlights, using a strong contrast of shades and colours. Moving towards the mid 2000’s, we felt that this trend needed to evolve into something that was still strong, but with a much more multi tonal feel. Something that looked personal, with an expensive feel to it. This was our award winning look for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy in 2005.”
Francesca Dixon, Creative Colourist Hari’s Hairdressers, London
Alan Edwards Art Team, Directed by Alan Edwards Alan Edwards Salon, Glasgow
Trevor Sorbie MBE Founder of Trevor Sorbie brand
22
h i s t o r y o f c o l o u r / 2021-22 career styler
Hair and hair colour make the ultimate fashion statement, and have done for decades. Here, five leading hair artists share their iconic looks in a celebration of five eras of hair artistry.
In The Know
1
70% of British adults who get their hair done professionally agree that it supports their mental health and wellbeing* WHAT CONSUMERS WANT:
2 3
‘I want to be inspired to fire up my creativity’’**
55% of consumers prioritise experience over material possession** Professional stylists and colourists have the unique ability to showcase their expertise. THIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE:
4
Getting your hair done by a professional is overwhelmingly considered the best way to colour hair.
2010’s
2020’s
“I love colour that looks like it is the perfect colour for the person that is wearing it, whatever colour they choose. High maintenance colour had been the trend for years and I was noticing that clients now wanted their service to last that little bit longer and have a real lived-in feel, and that is what I wanted to achieve with this look.”
“Colour has been the most exciting evolution in this era with creative colours taking a forefront in our services, pushing the industry forward with new and exciting ways of working.
Adam Reed Founder of Adam Reed London
“It has been amazing to see our colour specialists take the forefront in our industry, and with exciting new technology in colour, it has opened new doors for us, as a creative industry, to fully express ourselves.” Sally Brooks, Colour by Grace Dalgleish Brooks and Brooks, London
5
You also have a huge opportunity to educate your clients on the wider range of colouring services available to help each client find the right solution for them.
6
Women predominantly colour their hair to improve their natural look and give them greater confidence.
7
Recent Salon Emotion research revealed that stylists need to communicate more with their clients to demonstrate their professional expertise. Sources: * YouGov. Survey 4257 adults were surveyed, and field work was undertaken between 19th and 20th Nov 2020. All the figures are from YouGov plc. ** R&I Consumer Shifts, Kantar Futures: The Future of Beauty 2013-2019 — male and female 13-55+ Points 4 to 7: Sources: 2CV Salon Tracker UK 2019 / 2020 / 2021
23
Mocha
Blue
Violet
Green
Red
Yellow
Mahogany
Copper
EDUCATOR sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r a d v e r t o r i a l
“Work hard to grow your confidence”
Educator
Meet Laura Elliot, Head of Education for distributor Salon Promotions. Laura works full-time in her role, heading up a team of specialist hairdressing educators. Concept Hair: Tell us a little about your job as an educator. Laura Elliot: I am Head of Education for Salon Promotions. The brands that we look after are Neäl & Wølf, Olaplex, Alterna, Kerastraight, Hot Tools and more. We educate both in-salon, and provide academy courses for anyone, at any level, whether they’re in college, new learners, new to the industry, and even those who have been in the industry for decades. CH: What attracted you to a career in hairdressing? LE: I’ve always loved playing with hair. I wasn’t very academic growing up, but I was very practical and good with my hands. My natural love of hair caused me to migrate into a role within hairdressing at the age of 18.
I went to the interview and was asked to work on a model and present it. I instantly fell in love with the academy environment and thought, this is it. This is what I want to do. CH: What personality traits make a good educator? LE: An educator needs to be great at communication. When choosing a new member of our education team, I look at how they chat to somebody, how well they come across, what their verbal skills are like, and whether or not they can easily get across a piece of information in a way that someone would understand.
CH: At what point in your career did you decide to become an educator? LE: While working as a salon manager in 2010, I saw a job ad for studio educators. I had no idea what that was at the time, but I knew the brand and knew I needed a change in my life.
26
S p o n s o r a d v e r t o r i a l / 2021-22 career styler
CH: What skills do you need to possess to be a good educator? LE: As well as communication skills, you need confidence and conviction. That ability to believe in yourself is so important when you’re speaking to a group of 30 individuals who are looking to you for guidance and reassurance. CH: What element of your role as an educator do you find most fulfilling and why? LE: The biggest buzz I get is being able to help someone with something they don’t quite understand. Whether it’s teaching them how to put a root colour on, or picking the right toner, working through their problems with them and then seeing that ‘lightbulb moment’ appear on their face – that moment when they suddenly just get it.
“That ability to believe in yourself is so important”
CH: What are the biggest challenges you face as an educator? LE: The last 18 months have been a huge challenge for the industry, and it’s knocked the confidence of many stylists and salon owners. As educators, we try to educate as much as we can for our brands, but sometimes the biggest challenge for us is having to be life coaches and sometimes even psychologists. We spend a lot of time helping people with confidence building.
Laura’s Top Tips on becoming an educator
1
Make sure you learn your fundamentals. No matter what brand you end up working with, if you know your fundamentals and the tools you work with inside and out, you’re halfway to success
CH: What have been your career highlights as an educator to date? LE: I’d say working on Neäl & Wølf Professional Colour – the projects I have worked on with Neäl & Wølf have been remarkable, from having an initial conversation about a colour brand, to working directly with our scientists to develop new, innovative products and bringing the brand to life.
2
Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there. Get yourself known on social media and hashtag the companies and brands you want to work with
3
Also, being able to learn more and attend training sessions to further my own development has been invigorating, I love that I’m always learning.
27
Learn presentation skills and work hard to grow your confidence. If you want to be an educator, there’s no better time than to start now.
Neäl & Wølf
P r e s e n t a t i o n S k i l l s / 2021-22 career styler
My top tip is always to practise your intro above all else, especially your name and title”
Present &
correct You might not think it, but presenting to an audience can often be a big part of a hairdressing career, depending on what path you take.
ASHLEIGH HODGES Co-Director, HAIRDOTCOM Art Team
Concept Hair: First experience of presenting to an audience as a hairdresser? Ashleigh Hodges: My first ever experience presenting to an audience was at the semi-finals of The FAME Team (an artistic team of under-35s selected by the Fellowship for British Hairdressing). I learnt the importance of breathing and allowing for pauses, not only to let the audience absorb what you’ve said but to give yourself calming moments. CH: Any nerve-calming techniques? AH: Before I walk on stage, I do two things. First, I do a silly dance. It sounds crazy but you have lots of nervous energy and it’s good to channel it and let it out. Secondly, I stand still, take deep breaths and imagine I’m in a plant pot rooted down, this helps to ground me and settle the nerves into a calm place before walking out onto the stage.
TOP TIP Always practise your intro above all else, especially your name and title. As that adrenaline kicks in when you first walk on stage, these are the things you’ll forget.
DEFINITE NO-NO’S Don’t wear uncomfortable clothing or shoes, you will fidget and won’t feel confident.
@ashleigh_hodges_hair
Continued…
29
career styler 2021-22 / P r e s e n t a t i o n S k i l l s
@jakeunger
JAKE UNGER Head of Education, HOB Academy
Concept Hair: First experience of presenting to an audience as a hairdresser? Jake Unger: At HOB, we have a young artistic team that you need to audition for. For me, this involved cutting and colouring a model’s hair, as well as dressing them and arranging make up. Finally, I had to present my finished look to the artistic team.
“When presenting, the old saying of ‘fail to prepare, prepare to fail’ is never truer”
In The Know
CH: How do you prepare before presenting? JU: When presenting, the old saying of “fail to prepare, prepare to fail” is never truer. If I don’t have the best model possible, or I don’t know what techniques I’m going to use, or my own hair and the way I am dressed isn’t professional, then I am fighting an uphill battle.
TOP TIPS My best tip is to remember,
1
To teach hairdressing in a college or academy you’ll need to start with a Level 3 Award in Education & Training.
GOT, WANT, HOW and WHY. If you remember this, you will always have something to talk about throughout your presentation. For example, when I first go onto stage, I
2
An experienced educator can expect to earn between £30k £50k per year.
introduce myself, then I tell the audience what I have GOT - hair length, what type of density, what type of
EDUCATORS CAN WORK IN A VARIETY OF FIELDS:
texture, what kind of shape is already there. Then I tell them what I WANT, as in
3
what kind of shape I want to
Larger salon groups like Toni & Guy and Rush will employ educators.
create — whether I’m going to cut a fringe or cut the model’s hair to a bob. Then I tell them roughly HOW I’m going to do that, what kind of techniques I’m going to be using — am I using layering,
DEFINITE NO-NO’S
graduation, clippers, for
For me, it doesn’t work to
example. Then, finally, WHY
have a script for when you
am I doing all of the above.
are on stage. I’ve tried this
WHY am I using layering, or
before and I would invariably
graduation, WHY am I using
start to fumble my words
clippers and not scissor over
and panic that I didn’t know
comb, and so on.
my next line.
30
4
Smaller regional salon groups will also often employ educators, or even have their own private academies.
5
Many product companies and distributors employ educators to teach hairdressers how to use their products.
Freelance hairdresser sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r a d v e r t o r i a l
“I can be flexible with my hours and work in a way that suits me”
Freelance hairdresser
Meet Abbey Jarrold, a successful freelance hairdresser and UK Ambassador for Indola. Concept Hair: Tell us about your job as a freelance hairdresser.
CH: At what point in your career did you decide to become a freelance hairdresser?
Abbey Jarrold: During lockdown, I became a freelance hairdresser and set up my own home salon. I operate as a colourist and stylist looking after a large clientele with flexibility on the hours and days I work. Being freelance means I am able to look after my clients while also working with Indola as UK Ambassador on photoshoots or at Fashion Week, which I love.
AJ: I decided I wanted to become a freelance hairdresser about a year before I actually did it. I knew I had to build up a loyal client base, so I worked really hard on attracting new clients and maintaining them. I also assisted on any jobs outside the salon I could, mainly within Indola, assisting Global Ambassador Andy Smith, to gain the experience needed to become an expert in my field.
CH: What initially attracted you to a career in hairdressing? AJ: I’ve always had a passion for hairdressing and loved being able to make people feel good about themselves. I was drawn to freelance hairdressing when I realised what a huge industry it was outside of the salon. I was amazed that I could train, travel and develop while doing such a creative and rewarding job. I’ve loved travelling the world as a freelance hairdresser and have learnt so much in the process.
CH: How did you build a clientele at your home salon? AJ: My regular clients were so eager to help me, and I had so many recommendations that I quickly became fully booked. I also marketed myself via Instagram and Facebook as well as handing out leaflets to my neighbours and local businesses. It definitely helped that I had already built a strong and loyal relationship with my current clients.
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S p o n s o r a d v e r t o r i a l / 2021-22 career styler
“It’s important to continually strive to develop your skills”
CH: What personality traits make a good freelance hairdresser?
CH: What is the biggest challenge you face as a freelance hairdresser?
AJ: To me, having an approachable, kind and understanding personality helps when working for yourself. Clients need to feel comfortable. If you’re a mobile hairdresser and entering someone’s home, they need to feel comfortable with you being there.
AJ: My biggest challenge is not having a receptionist. Many clients will text or call at all hours of the day so I have set myself a time boundary and will only reply or answer messages between 9am-7pm, this ensures that I switch off from work and can still enjoy my own time.
CH: What skills do you need to possess to be a good freelance hairdresser? AJ: It’s important to continually strive to develop your skills. You should constantly keep up to date with the latest trends in cuts and colour. Plus, you need to ensure that you’re listening to clients’ wants and needs. CH: What element of your role as a freelance hairdresser do you find most fulfilling?
CH: What have been your career highlights as a freelance hairdresser? AJ: The big career highlight for me would be landing the role as UK Ambassador for Indola and becoming part of the Indola Selected Team. Being freelance allows me to have the time to be a part of the Indola team, which is so rewarding.
AJ: I love running my own business. I can be flexible with my hours and work in a way that suits me and my lifestyle.
Abbey’s Top Tips on Becoming a Freelance Hairdresser
1
Always keep on educating yourself no matter what level you have reached. You can always learn something from other hairdressers
2
Have confidence in yourself. It can be hard going, but work hard and it will happen
3
Set goals. Decide on a date when you want to set up by yourself and work hard towards that goal, build up a strong client base and don’t be afraid to go for it.
33
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indola.co.uk
#SimplySmarter
H o w t o m a r k e t y o u r s e l f / 2021-22 career styler
Shine bright
When you’re starting out in the industry, one of the biggest challenges can be marketing yourself.
TOP TIP 1
USE SOCIAL MEDIA Social media is without a doubt the number one marketing tool you need to use in order to connect, network and reach different markets. And it’s free. This alone can help anyone build a profile and progress through their freelance journey. I often refer to this as my portfolio, as it shows off my work, my skills and my passion for the industry. I also use features such as Instagram and Facebook lives in order to connect with others, educate and hold live discussions, and this has had a real positive impact on my channels and following.
edia is m l a i c “So t a doub t u o h t wi e ber on m u n e th ool you t g n i t marke s free” ’ t i d n a need...
DARREL STARKEY Owner, Taylor’s Hair Studio, Skegness
D
arrel Starkey is a rising star within the hairdressing industry. Working to his own style, Darrel began his career with a full education, learning about every sector of the industry and building a solid foundation of knowledge — he believes this is the key to success within such a creative world.
TOP TIP 2
CONNECT AND COMMUNICATE
Here, Darrel has given his top five tips on how to build your personal brand and market your services.
l a i socdia me
In order to self-market and build your brand, you need to communicate with those in the wider industry as this gets your name out there and gets people talking. Step out of your comfort zone and reach out to those who perhaps you’d never come into contact with before, don’t be afraid to chat. As hairdressers, we are used to chatting all day long, so use this strength to help build your brand. Continued…
35
career styler 2021-22 / h o w t o m a r k e t y o u r s e l f
TOP TIP 3
SHARE YOUR WORK WITH THE MEDIA The media love nothing more than hearing news and looking at new work which has been produced in our industry – they love to share this with their readers and website visitors, showing off what is happening within the industry. Whether you tag them on social media or email them some news, never be afraid to share! This is also a great way to start building a relationship with industry journalists – again, great for brand building.
TOP TIP 4
BE VISIBLE
Being visible within the hairdressing industry is really important when building your own personal brand profile. You want people to recognise you for your commitment, passion and work. I would suggest attending events such as Concept Hair Learner of the Year, Pro Hair Live and Salon International – as these are great ways to see so many people! Secondly, where possible, enter and attend awards. Although this may have a cost involved, if you feel this will benefit your personal profile and help make your brand more visible – do it.
TOP TIP 5
BE YOURSELF
This is so incredibly important, and something you should be so proud of. Always remember that you are unique and that you are an individual. Never try to be something you are not – simply be yourself! This will earn you so much more respect and let people around you know that what they see is what they get. I am a very honest and open person and everyone knows me for this.
In The Know Most freelance hairdressers will have achieved at least an NVQ Level 2 or equivalent.
“Always remember that you are unique”
Around
60%
of UK hairdressers are now freelance according to the NHBF.
Around
35%
of FHA members have home salons.
@hairbydarrel
36
According to the Freelance Hair Association (FHA), some
40%
of its members are mobile hairdressers.
20%
of FHA members rent a chair in a salon.
Salon manager sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r A d v e r t o r i a l
Salon manager Meet Cheryl Munoz, a highly experienced hairdresser and manager of the prestigious Daniel Galvin salon in London’s Kensington.
“We respect each other’s expertise”
38
S p o n s o r A d v e r t o r i a l / 2021-22 career styler
“We are constantly learning and evolving in this industry”
Concept Hair: Tell us a little about your job as a salon manager. Cheryl Munoz: I work at and manage the Daniel Galvin salon in Kensington. We have a team of twelve. I am responsible for everything in the salon from stock to maintenance and marketing. My primary role is to enable the salon to run smoothly and for our clients to leave feeling happy and fabulous. CH: How do you keep your team motivated and productive? CM: My team members are very busy. We respect each other’s expertise, and we are very open to listening to other people’s ideas and opinions. We are constantly learning and evolving in this industry. CH: What traits make an effective manager? CM: I think a manager needs to be a good communicator and very well organised. I have systems in place so that everyone knows their role and what’s expected of them. CH: What initially attracted you to a career in hairdressing? CM: I used to love going into the salon with my mum. Everyone was dressed in bright colours and seemed to really enjoy being there. When I had the opportunity to work there on Saturdays, I took it.
CH: Tell us about the career path you took to become a salon manager. CM: I started out in a salon as an assistant doing my apprenticeship. The salon was very creative. We had our clients, but it was also normal for us to work on photoshoots, enter industry awards, and take part in hair shows. I was always learning and growing as a person. I was part of a team who travelled to Paris, Milan, and New York for Fashion Week, but my first love was always working in the salon. I love making people feel and look amazing, it’s so rewarding. I gradually travelled less and spent more time in the salon. I feel all the experience I had built up made people feel comfortable to ask me for advice and my manager role naturally evolved from there.
CH: What are the biggest challenges you face as a salon manager? CM: My biggest challenge is sickness, especially over the past 18 months. When we cancel or reschedule clients, it puts pressure on everyone. We always aim to keep the clients happy but sometimes you simply need to cancel and that is disappointing.
CH: What element of your role as a salon manager do you find most fulfilling?
CH: As a salon manager, what have been your career highlights to date?
CM: I think seeing the clients after lockdown was the most fulfilling. Everyone was desperate to have their hair done and we realised how important we are to people. We are looking into training in mental health issues as we already feel like a therapist to our clients — as a hairdresser, people trust you and confide in you, so we are in a very powerful position to help people feel more confident. It’s very rewarding.
CM: I love watching the next generation grow and flourish. We often see young people who have had challenges at school who feel that they have found their place in the world with hairdressing, which is exciting to see. Our industry is a gold mine and the possibilities are endless. Creativity is encouraged; you are always learning and everyone is having to raise their game.
39
Cheryl’s Top Tips on becoming a salon manager
1
Find the right salon for you, research them, look at their social media
2
Take every opportunity you get. Hairdressing can lead you down many different paths, you will find yours once you’ve tried them all
3
Surround yourself with good teachers. If you are not learning you should be. Be confident enough to speak up.
Curls & Coils
w h a t i s a g r e a t l e a d e r ? / 2021-22 career styler
Leading the way
“A leader does not control but allows someone to grow”
The hairdressing industry is full of inspirational salon owners and managers who have grown their teams and their businesses into iconic brands. We asked a selection of top bosses what they feel makes a great leader. @brookshair
STEVE ROWBOTTOM
SALLY BROOKS
Co-Director, Westrow, Leeds
Co-Owner, Brooks & Brooks, London
Great leaders wear many hats. It isn’t about ego, but about refining your ability to nurture those in whom you see potential, helping them reach it with a clear path ahead of them. I also believe great leaders need to possess a positive mental outlook, enabling them to provide solutions to any problems a team might face, along with a crystal-clear vision which they remain true to, even throughout the inevitable bumps in the road. A great leader is also comfortable offering opportunities to those better than them, to delegate and understand their own limitations, hiring people along the way who can fill any skill gaps or complement an existing team.
@westrowhair
e r u t r
nu
A great leader can bring out the best in their team — a leader does not control but allows someone to grow. A great leader wants the people they lead to go on and do more than they have achieved, they nurture the team.
A salon is a business so it has to be treated as one. You have to know where you want to take the business and how to get there through effective decision making. Making the right decisions and being prepared to change the way you run your business is what keeps you forward thinking. One of the major attributes you need as a leader is patience – you need to listen. Embrace change and take risks.
41
Continued…
career styler 2021-22 / w h a t i s a g r e a t l e a d e r ?
Communication is so important, and as a leader you must be able to communicate with all your team effectively, motivating and inspiring them and being there to discuss and work your way round any problems that may arise. You also need to be humble enough to admit to any decisions that did not go to plan.
LINDA STEWART Co-Owner of Rainbow Room International, Glasgow
A leader must also have confidence, a positive attitude and a clear vision, which will inspire team members and help to guide them in the right direction to achieve the goals of the business. @rainbowroomint
In The Know “A leader is someone that makes people want to do something” ROBERT MASCIAVE Owner, Metropolis Hairdressing, Kingston-Upon-Thames
A leader is someone who has vision and clearly defines what success is to both themselves and the rest of the team. A leader has to truly believe in their vision — no one wants to follow anyone who does not believe in it themselves and is not passionate about their path. A leader is someone that makes people want to do something and really encourages people to share the same vision to move forward.
A salon manager working in the UK earns an average of
£25k
per year, according to recruitment specialists Indeed.
Hair and beauty businesses are flourishing with most still going strong after 5 years.
Source: NHBF Industry Statistics Booklet 2020
@metropolishairdressing
42
Hair and beauty salons in the UK are estimated to generate a turnover of around
£8 million
There are around
29,200 salon owners and managers working in the UK.
Session stylist with lisa farrall
career styler 2021-22 / S e s s i o n s t y l i s t
“You can choose your own path and make your career your own”
Session Stylist
Meet Lisa Farrall, a renowned session stylist known for her work on fashion shows, music videos and editorial photoshoots.
“Hairdressing allows me to be as creative or as commercial as I want to be”
44
S e s s i o n s t y l i s t / 2021-22 career styler
Concept Hair: Tell us a little about your job as a session stylist.
CH: What personality traits make a good session stylist?
Lisa Farrall: I am incredibly lucky in that I work with lots of creative people. I am an ambassador for Matrix and also work with Cloud Nine which both offer some amazing opportunities. I most recently worked on the Coldplay Universe video and regularly work with Ed Sheeran on his videos, including the most recent Bad Habits. Other clients include Travis Scott and Kendrick Lamar. I also work on fashion shows and seminars.
LF: Patience, being a team player, reliability and self-motivation.
CH: What made you want to be a hairdresser? LF: I’ve always been a creative person and hairdressing allows me to be as creative or as commercial as I want to be. You can choose your own path and make your career your own. What influences me as an artist is rebellion. The fact that you can do anything that you want and create a movement, for me that’s what being an artist is all about. CH: At what point in your career did you decide to become a session stylist? LF: It was always something I was interested in but it’s taken me over two decades to get to where I am today – it’s not going to happen overnight.
CH: What skills do you need to possess to be a good session stylist? LF: You need to know all hair types, not only what is in fashion at the time. It’s also essential that you know how to work with all hair textures as you never know who will be sitting in your styling chair and you never want to have to turn down a job or turn a client away because you can’t do their hair. CH: What element of your role as a session stylist do you love most? LF: I love it all. The prep is always hard work but a lot of fun and then I love the shoots themselves. It’s great to see the vision and the story come to life. CH: What have been your career highlights as a session stylist to date? LF: I am very proud of my WIG London Academy, where I teach other stylists to work with textured hair. I launched it in 2016 after seeing Afro models not being treated the same as other models. Every stylist should be able to do every hair type.
Photoshoot for Noctis Magazine
45
Lisa’s Top Tips on becoming a session stylist
1
Be unapologetically you, don’t look behind you or to the side, just in front
2 3 4
Look at yourself and ask ‘who are you?’ and ‘who do you want to be?’ Progression not perfection. Be unique Be nice. No one wants to work with a diva!
The theme is Festival Hair and there are four categories depending on your level of study.
APPLICATIONS ARE OPEN NOW — ASK YOUR TUTOR TO REGISTER! CLOSING DATE FOR SUBMISSIONS IS 1 APRIL 2022. Our Sponsors:
AVA N T- G A R D E
TH
AR
L
get yourself noticed
STYLING HAIR UP
Alongside the prestige of winning a UK competition for both student and school, the competition is completely free to enter and there are fantastic prizes to be won.
COLOURING
BARBERING
The School Spotlight Award is back for the 2021/22 academic year! The photographic competition is open to all schools that offer hairdressing.
R
spotlight award
OF
SCHOOL
E
ARNE
E YE
This national competition gives the next generation of hairdressers and barbers the chance to shine and be recognised for their hard work and skills — and there’s some incredible prizes to be won. There are eight competition categories to enter with inspiring themes: Styling – Level 1 – Vintage Retro Styling – Level 2 – Vintage Retro Hair Up – Level 2 – Masquerade Ball Hair Up – Level 3 – Masquerade Ball Barbering – Level 2 – Looking Sharp Barbering – Level 3 – Looking Sharp Colouring – All Levels – Colour Creativity Avant-Garde – Levels 2 & 3 – Signs of the Zodiac
ASK YOUR TUTOR TO REGISTER YOUR INTEREST BY 30 NOVEMBER 2021. GET YOUR ENTRIES TO US BY 17 DECEMBER 2021. WE CAN’T WAIT TO SEE YOUR WORK AND HOPE TO MEET YOU AT THE FINAL ON 24 MARCH 2022. Our Sponsors:
FIND OUT ALL THE INFO AT WWW.CONCEPTHAIRMAG.CO.UK Search: ConceptHairMag
c a t w a l k t r e n d s / 2021-22 career styler
Catwalk creator Daniele de Angelis is Academy Manager at Toni & Guy and a backstage regular at London Fashion Week. Here’s his take on the autumn/winter 21 season.
DANIELE DE ANGELIS
Concept Hair: What was London Fashion Week autumn/winter 21 like to work on?
Manager at Toni & Guy London
Daniele De Angelis: London Fashion Week went entirely virtual, but while the audience may not have been there, we worked on a whole host of models and shows. CH: Tell us about some of the key hair looks from this season. DDA: We saw lots of braids with the use of colourful fabrics to make the shape pop. This look was key for the Tolu Coker show. We also saw references from the late 60’s and 70’s with Paul Costello and a nod to the iconic 80’s with Vivienne Westwood.
“Working together as one team to create the best show is unbelievable”
In general, there was a trend towards celebrating natural texture, creating elegant vintage updos, and low placed ponytails and buns. Continued…
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career styler 2021-22 / c a t w a l k t r e n d s
CH: Can you describe what it is like to work backstage? DDA: Working backstage at London Fashion Week is one of the most exciting parts of my job. That mixture of time pressure, buzz and spotless execution gives me goosebumps. Not to mention the excitement of getting to work with talented designers! And to see designers, stylists, make-up artists, hairdressers, models, production and many others all working together as one team to create the best show is unbelievable. CH: How do you come up with the trends?
LONDON FASHION WEEK FACTS
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Toni & Guy work at some 80 shows each year The Toni & Guy session team members travel
in from all over the world to
DDA: We don’t just come up with the looks on the day. We go through meetings which are called hair tests where we look at the entire collection from the designer to understand the concept and the vision. We then test different looks to see if they fit the story. Everything has to work together — the hair, make-up and clothes. It’s like a giant puzzle where every single piece has to match, only then will we see the whole picture.
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v
style the hair at this leading fashion event
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Some 7,014 products are used backstage More than 105,000 visitors attend London
Fashion Week each season
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Since 2004, Toni & Guy have supported key
British designers including Henry Holland, Giles, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Peter Pilotto, Todd Lynn and many more.
In The Know “London Fashion Week is one of the most exciting parts of my job”
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A successful session stylist can earn upwards of £50,000 per year
Top session stylists include Guido, Sam McKnight and Eugene Souleiman
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Session stylists can work on shoots for magazines, backstage at fashion events, TV shows or on music videos
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It’s a hugely competitive area of hairdressing — to begin with, you will need to work for free to build a name for yourself.
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G e n d e r - n e u t r a l h a i r d r e s s i n g / 2021-22 career styler
Gender Neutral hair is hair The term gender neutral is familiar to us but what does it mean to be a gender-neutral hairdresser?
CASEY COLEMAN is a successful freelance hairdresser and session stylist whose approach to his craft is totally gender neutral.
Concept Hair: What does being gender neutral mean? Casey Coleman: Being a genderneutral hairdresser means that you don’t base your services or prices on the gender your client identifies as. Instead, you charge by time, service or hair length. This way, if a woman comes in and wants a short haircut, and then a man comes in and wants the same cut, they get charged the same. By not being gender biased, your client base will soon become broader — and I can guarantee that. CH: How has being gender neutral changed the way you work? CC: It’s allowed me to become way more aware of people who struggle with gender issues. There are so many people — male, female and nonbinary — who don’t feel comfortable going into a unisex salon because the hairdresser takes one look at them and assumes their gender.
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id
y t i t n e
Continued…
career styler 2021-22 / G e n d e r - n e u t r a l h a i r d r e s s i n g
CH: How is being gender neutral reflected in your work?
In The Know
CC: I approach hair in a different way. If someone who identifies as female wants a masculine haircut, I’ll do it. If someone who is male wants a feminine haircut and colour, I’ll do it — hair has no gender!
You’ll earn around £30k a year as an experienced salon stylist , according to the National Careers Service. To start working as a junior stylist in a salon you’ll need an NVQ Level 2 or equivalent.
CH: How is your approach to hairdressing reflected in the work you do with the HAIRDOTCOM art team?
There are loads of salons out there, as these stats from the National Hair and Beauty Federation show.
CC: HAIRDOTCOM is made up of a bunch of loving, accepting, creative hair nerds, so the approach is always one with love, compassion and fun!
HAIR
There are nearly
45,000
DOT COM
hair and beauty salons across the UK
Most of these are in England
Most of these businesses employ fewer than five people
(83%)
37,355 (83%)
“The fact is hair has no gender!”
Scotland has
Some of the big salon groups employ more than
salons, and there are
people
3,810 2,155 in Wales
@caseyc_hair
Source: NHBF Industry Statistics Booklet 2020
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career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r A d v e r t o r i a l
Join The Club! The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is a major creative force in the industry with your future firmly in mind.
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upporting the next generation of hairdressers is massively important to The Fellowship for British Hairdressing. The Fellowship is the leading organisation within the hairdressing industry with a focus on promoting artistry and creative skills, and as part of this, it offers loads of initiatives designed to inspire and encourage younger hairdressers. ClubStar is the Fellowship’s membership programme specifically designed for hairdressers aged 16-25. Whether you are just starting out or are an experienced hair professional, ClubStar membership helps you strengthen your skills, nurture your creativity and transform your career — all for just £5.95 per month.
The current ClubStar Art Team leader is leading hairdresser and salon owner, Karoliina Saunders. Karoliina has spent the past 12 months overseeing the mentoring programme and also helping to select the lucky young stylists forming the next ClubStar Art Team. “It’s been such a brilliant year, featuring an incredibly varied mix of inspirational activities for the team,” says Karoliina. “My aim with the team is to encourage their creativity but also give them a real focus and a vision for how they want to shape their careers in this wonderful industry.”
scan here
Discover more about ClubStar and the ClubStar Art Team at www.fellowshiphair.com
A ClubStar membership also gives you access to exceptional creative education from some of the UK’s most inspirational hairdressers, through both face-to-face and exciting online events. Once you’re a ClubStar member, you’ll also have the chance to win a place on the ClubStar Art Team. This is an amazing opportunity which has helped catapult many young hairdressers to huge success in their careers. The ClubStar Art Team was formed in 2014, giving ClubStar members the chance to make their mark creatively through highprofile stage presentations, a photoshoot and mentoring days with some of the biggest talents in the industry.
THE TEAM OF 2022 FROM TOP LEFT: Victoria Hughes, Zoe Leaves, Sam Bickle, team leader Karoliina Saunders, Jamie Farrar, Joshua Easter, Jacqueline Kankam Hoppe, Abby Quinn
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S p o n s o r A d v e r t o r i a l / 2021-22 career styler
“The Fellowship is there to nurture your talent throughout your career with these incredible teams and initiatives”
PROJECT: COLOUR
F.A.M.E. TEAM
PROJECT: X
PROJECT: MEN
PROJECT: Colour is all about getting wildly creative, with unlimited access to the best people and products around. An action-packed agenda, including up-close and personal seminars with world-famous mentors and hands-on master classes.
The Fellowship Academy for Merit and Excellence was launched in 1993 to give young people an opportunity through mentoring from some of the biggest names in the business.
Dubbed the ‘ultimate hairdressing finishing school,’ PROJECT: X was launched in 2006 with an inclusive agenda. Celebrating ongoing education, and age limit-free, this project embraces qualified hairdressers across all experience levels who possess that elusive X factor.
This 12-month programme of education, mentoring and opportunities is a dream for those interested in developing and improving their skills in men’s hairdressing and barbering.
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Textured Hair SPECIALIST sponsored by
career styler 2021-22 / S p o n s o r A d v e r t o r i a l
Concept Hair: Tell us about your job as a textured hair specialist.
“Understanding the science of hair is fundamental to working with textured hair”
Jacqui Mclntosh: My role includes developing educational concepts specifically designed for those hairdressers working with textured and Afro hair. CH: What attracted you initially to a career in hairdressing? JM: I loved the idea of making someone feel happy by the way in which you interpret their vision of themselves, it’s such a powerful skill to have. CH: At what point in your career did you decide to specialise in textured hair? JM: I have always worked across all hair types, specialising in textured hair is part and parcel of the job of being an all-round hairstylist. CH: Did you undergo any additional training to follow this path?
Textured Hair Specialist Meet Jacqui McIntosh, an experienced hairdresser, currently working for textured and Afro hair specialist Avlon Europe as Education Director. 56
JM: I was very fortunate to work with some amazing hair stylists, brands and employers that ensured my training was well rounded. Many of my ex-employers invested in the teams that served their clients to ensure all hair types could be serviced within the salon. CH: What personality traits make a good textured hair specialist? JM: You must be receptive and have empathy. It’s also important to have an understanding of cultural differences, with a good command of verbal and nonverbal communication skills, this is key along with the ability to listen. CH: What skills make a good textured hair specialist? JM: Understanding the science of hair is fundamental to working with textured hair along with gaining experience with different textures. Training will give you so much but it’s the lessons learnt behind the chair that bring this training to life.
S p o n s o r A d v e r t o r i a l / 2021-22 career styler
CH: What element of being a textured hair specialist do you love the most? JM: I enjoy the technical aspects of textured hair work. However, it’s the complexities of this hair type that keep you on your toes and continually challenged and excited, which is fulfilling. CH: What are the biggest challenges you face as a textured hair specialist? JM: The biggest challenge with textured hair is maintaining condition. Unlike other hair types, conditioning is fundamental to the care of textured hair. So, as a stylist you are constantly challenged to give the client what they desire while ensuring the hair’s condition is not compromised. This takes great skill and knowledge to achieve. CH: What have been your career highlights as a textured hair specialist? JM: Hairdressing constantly evolves and so has my career, so there have been lots of highlights, whether it’s helping a client achieve their goal or supporting the next break-through treatment. The greatest thing for me is to still be able to work within such an amazing industry that never stops evolving.
Jacqui’s Top Tips for Becoming a Textured Hair Specialist
“The biggest challenge with textured hair is maintaining condition”
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Gain knowledge of the industry to make sure it’s really what you have a passion for
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Go and observe work being carried out within an Afro hair salon. It will be a fascinating experience, especially if you have never seen this before
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Attend seminars and workshops on Afro-textured hair. You will gain so much in-depth knowledge.
I n c l u s i v e h a i r d r e s s i n g / 2021-22 career styler
Inclusive Hairdressing
Offering a hairdressing service that embraces hair of all types is becoming less of a rarity in the UK. Here, two leading hairdressers talk about the importance of inclusivity. Concept Hair: When did you decide to learn more about working with textured hair?
CRAIG CHAPMAN Owner, Craig Chapman Hair Design, Launceston, Cornwall
Craig Chapman: I was really fortunate that during my training I was personal assistant to an incredible Afro hair expert, and learned about textured hair alongside all other hair types. I had no idea how valuable that would be to my career and to my clientele until later in life, as it was just the norm to me. CH:How does this early experience influence the way you train your team? CC: All my team have worked with me on shoots and shows so have a rounded skill set in all hair types. This is an unusual way to learn to work with textured hair but it has made the team fearless and competent in working with any client that walks through our door.
“I learned about textured hair alongside all other hair types”
CH: Tell us about some of the successes you’ve had with textured hair.
@craigchapmanhair
CC: I’m so grateful to have won a number of awards in Afro/textured hair over the years. This is an unusual achievement for someone with a salon in a sleepy town in Cornwall! In 2012, I actually picked up the award for Afro Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards!
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Continued…
career styler 2021-22 / I n c l u s i v e h a i r d r e s s i n g
Image credit: Errol Douglas
WAYNE CAMPBELL Senior Technician, Errol Douglas, London
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Concept Hair: Why did you decide to learn more about working with textured hair? Wayne Campbell: Being of mixed parentage myself, I always found it difficult, while growing up, to find a hairdresser who could really truly advise me on how to best look after my Afro locks. Because of this, I made it my mission to join a salon that was inclusive and where I could be trained in all aspects of hair. That Salon was Errol Douglas, London.
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CH: Do you pass on your textured hair skills to other team members in the salon?
In The Know
WC: Absolutely! Errol instils in his team the importance of being inclusive – our model nights and training nights include all hair types/textures so we each become fully conversant and confident with any client that sits in our chair.
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Training in Afro and textured hair is now a compulsory part of UK hairdressing qualifications, following changes made by National Occupational Standards
CH: Why is it important to be able to cater to a more diverse clientele and be more inclusive? WC: The Errol Douglas salon has been doing this for three decades, but it’s only in the last few years that the wider industry is recognising the importance of catering to clients with Afro or highly textured hair. Every salon should be able to create confidently for any individual. British people are a beautiful melting pot – and with that comes a new awakening of hair type.
2 “I made it my mission to join a salon that was inclusive”
To specialise in Afro hair, you should consider taking some specialist Afro hair courses
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Around 10 million women identify with having Afro or multitextured hair in the UK and Europe, according to The Hair and Beauty Council
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Black British women spend six times more on their hair than their white counterparts, according to market and consumer data specialist Statista.
@wayneshortercampbellhair
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t r i c h o l o g y / 2021-22 career styler
Hair science
Trichology is the science of the structure, function and diseases of the human hair and becoming a trichologist is a natural career progression for many hairdressers.
Find out more at: www.CTSP.ac.uk
STEPHANIE MOORE Many top trichologists are also trained hairdressers, including Stephanie Moore, Head of Education at The College of Trichological Science and Practice (CTSP).
Concept Hair: Why is there a natural fit between hairdressing and trichology? Stephanie Moore: It’s a natural progression. I started in hairdressing so have always had a curiosity for all things to do with hair and trichology is the ultimate extension of that. A lot of people with hair loss don’t know who to turn to, so their hairdresser is often the first professional involved. CH: How can understanding the science of hair make someone a better hairdresser? SM: Hair science is not just about hair loss, it’s about everything that affects the hair. Hairdressing is already a science as you use chemicals and products all day! Really understanding ‘how’ and ‘why’ these things
“Hairdressing is already a science”
work gives you the ability to talk to your clients on a different level, so will ultimately have better outcomes for your clients, hair and also your reputation. CH: Any advice for someone thinking trichology looks interesting? SM: Don’t be scared off by the science involved. I didn’t get on with science at school, but now it’s relevant to what I do, it all makes sense! CH: Tell us a little about the courses offered by The CTSP. SM: We offer an accredited education pathway from Level 4 to 6 (equivalent to degree level), starting with our ‘Certificate in Hair and Scalp Science for Trichology’, which is taught online over six months. It is for anyone wanting to improve their knowledge to use in
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the salon, however if you do want to go on to become a Clinical Trichologist, then it provides the perfect stepping stone to access our higher-level programmes.
Three Fascinating Facts about Hair!
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Hair is a ‘dead’ fibre, but has a living bulb that is one of the fastest dividing cells in the body
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On average, if you put all the hair strands end to end, humans can grow up to 12 km of hair a year!
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There are around 100,000 strands of hair on our head. Red heads have the lowest density and blondes have the highest — although there are always exceptions!
career styler 2021-22 / B r a n d L i s t i n g s
Brand listing
How to get in touch with the brands that supported the Career Styler.
AVLON INDUSTRIES T: 0121 522 2124
Avlon Industries, Inc. is responsible for many of the most widely used professional haircare products on the market for African descent hair, including KeraCare®, Affirm®, FiberGuard®, Affirmcare®, Texture Release™ andMoisturColor® professional hair colour products. W: www.avlonhair.co.uk
@avlon
THE COLLEGE OF TRICHOLOGICAL SCIENCE & PRACTICE The College of Trichological Science & Practice (CTSP) was created to deliver EduQual approved bespoke programmes of study to promote the educational standards and clinical practise of trichology. T: 0330 3112603
W: www.ctsp.ac.uk
@ctsp_trichologyeducation
FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING Fellowship for British Hairdressing offers four projects to join to take your skills to another level, as well as networking opportunities and educational events to ensure you are the best you can be. T: 01295 724579
W: www.fellowshiphair.com
@fellowshiphair
HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY
T: 01234 831888
We are the official industry charity and provide financial support to individuals and their families facing difficult times due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, bereavement and financial hardship. Our beneficiaries are supported with regular payments or one-off grants to make their lives a little easier. W: www.hairandbeautycharity.org
hbcharityuk
INDOLA T: 01442 278000
Indola are proud to be an exclusively professional brand, using innovative formulas to create inspirational products, relevant to everyday needs. Inspired by real people, Indola focuses purely on what you the hairdresser needs, nothing more. Indola’s unrivalled colour and effortless care and styling assortment caters to all your service needs. W: www.indola.co.uk
@indolauk
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B r a n d L i s t i n g s / 2021-22 career styler
Thank you to all the brands that supported the Career Styler L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS At L’Oréal Professional Products, our mission is to support hairdressers and develop the hair industry sustainably, benefiting all. Professional Products founded the L’Oréal group more than 110 years ago. Always hand-in-hand with hairdressers. Creating beauty that moves the world. W: www.loreal.com/en/professional-products-division/
uk.lorealaccess.com/learn/signin
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS L'Oréal Professionnel Paris was born in Paris. Our founder Eugène Schueller dedicated his life and expertise to changing the lives of hairdressers. We deliver superior products, services and experiences. We develop game changing innovations powered by science, with an obsession of hair integrity and safety. W: www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk uk.lorealaccess.com/learn/signin @lorealpro @lorealpro_education_uki
SALON PROMOTIONS Salon Promotions is a leading supplier of professional haircare brands such as Neäl & Wølf, Olaplex, Alterna and more. We pride ourselves on knowing what your clients want and what your stylists need to deliver this. We supply a range of hand-picked brands and hairdressing products direct to your salon at wholesale prices. W: www.salonpromotions.co.uk
@salonpromotions
T: 01282 444900
WAHL
T: 01227 740066
Wahl are leaders in barbering and hairdressing products. Our extensive portfolio of clippers, trimmers and styling products have been created to offer each professional, regardless of experience or regularity of use, products that perfectly suit their needs. W: www.wahl.co.uk
@wahlprouk
WELLA PROFESSIONALS Wella Professionals is a leading professional hair color brand globally, home to many staple brands such as Koleston Perfect, Color Touch, Illumina Color, Color Fresh, Blondor and the most recent innovation, Trey Grey. T: 020 3650 4700
W: www.wella.com/professional/en-UK/home @WellaHairUKI
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education.wella.com/home