Concept Hair Magazine Summer 2022 issue by SNG Publishing

summer 2022

LEARNER OF THE YEAR 2022 WINNER

AMELIA JAHANPOUR W A L S A L L

C O L L E G E

Join us! Watch & learn through our 24/7 educational online platform ‘THE KNOWLEDGE’ Take part in our LIVE Fellowship stage shows Audition for our 12 month project mentoring programmes

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Compete in our prestigious annual Fellowship Awards Audition to be part of our young creative F.A.M.E. Team platform and our under 25’s ClubStar Art Team Enjoy FREE tickets to our LIVE member events Raise your profile on our social media channels & Fellowship Magazine Grow your skills with LIVE creative workshops

Photo: Stage shot from Salon International 2021.

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The Concept Hair team has certainly been inspired by your amazing work over the past few months. I had the honour of being one of the judges for the photographic round of the highly respected L’Oréal Colour Trophy. The competition includes the Future Talent category, which celebrates the creative skills of college students and I was hugely impressed by the quality of the work. And, of course, March saw the return of Concept Hair’s Learner of the Year Final as a live event, with finalists and their supporters competing to win their categories and to be crowned overall winner of Learner of the Year 2022. The event was an awesome display of talent and creativity and the entire Concept Hair Team felt very proud to be a part of it. You can read all about the day and meet all the winners on pages 7-14.

01 EDITOR’S WORD 02 NEWS 04 20 THINGS I LOVE WITH TEGAN ROBERTSON 05 WELLA SUMMER SCHOOL

22 INTERVIEW WITH JACQUELINE KANKAM-HOPPE

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2022

16 SUMMER STYLE SPECIAL

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Have a great few months everyone!

Editor

elcome to the summer edition of Concept Hair Magazine. We hope you’re having a great year so far, working towards your dream career in the wonderful world of hairdressing.

features

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contents

editor’s word

Editor’s Word / Summer 2022

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42 Concept Hair / 01

Summer 2022 / News

sponsored by

2022

E YE

R R

N OF

2022

sponsored by

Summer 2022 / LOY 22

E YE

Styling Level 2

SHORTLISTED FINALISTS

Nhula Frater, East Durham College

Chloe McGowan, City College Plymouth

Rachel Godfrey, East Durham College

Abigail Parr, Pembrokeshire College

Emma Deeks, Preston College

Amy Binder-Pollard, Tresham College

Imrana Hussain, Preston College

Jemma Cawley, West Herts College Chloe Lock, Greater Brighton Metropolitan College, Worthing

DORIS OFORI

ISABEL COLE

“I was so excited to hear my name — I didn’t expect to win. I felt so excited, proud and happy. I learnt a lot from the competition.”

“It feels brilliant, amazing! I’ve loved all of it, including seeing all the other stylists and what they do and seeing how I can progress to do other things too.”

LEEDS CITY COLLEGE

10 / Concept Hair

WEST SUFFOLK COLLEGE

ARNE

2022

LOY 22 / Summer 2022

ARNE

sponsored by

2022

E YE

hair up Level 2

hair up Level 3

SHORTLISTED FINALISTS

Rochell Fernandes, Activate Learning, Reading College

Ashanti Smith, Doncaster College

Chelsea Babb, Exeter College

Kelly-Rose Ward, Doncaster College

Maria Khan, Nescot, Surrey

Abbie Mahoney, Hugh Baird College

Jasmine Arnold, Riverside College

Rushda Mohamed Nizamdeen, Loughborough College

Danielle Bibby, Riverside College, Kingsway Campus

Rajni Charles, Uxbridge College, Hayes Campus

MILENA SZYMANSKA

MOLLY RAYNER

“I want to say a huge thank you to my tutors for pushing me. Hairdressing is my passion.”

“It feels so good. The confidence I have got from this is incredible.”

DONCASTER COLLEGE

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sponsored by

WEST SUFFOLK COLLEGE

S T

Concept Hair / 11

ARNE

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sponsored by

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barbering Level 2

barbering Level 3

SHORTLISTED FINALISTS

Maddy Neal, Central Training Group

Rean Muzammal, Bradford College

Kelly Dutton, Cheshire College South and West

Mohammed Armaan, Hopwood Hall College

Martin Bell, East Durham College

Connor Gray, Milton Keynes College

Jahid Miah, Oldham College

Aaron Whalley, Oldham College

Lleyton Weston, Petroc, North Devon

Jay Banger, South and City College Birmingham

ACE KOKES

YASEMIN HASSAN

“This feels good. I’ve never won anything like this before. I haven’t been cutting hair for that long.”

“I was nervous at first, but once I had my model in the chair and started cutting, I just felt the energy of everyone else in the room.”

THE LINK TRAINING

12 / Concept Hair

2022

E YE

ARNE

2022

sponsored by

Summer 2022 / LOY 22

ALAN D HAIRDRESSING ACADEMY

ARNE

2022

LOY 22 / Summer 2022

ARNE

sponsored by

2022

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COLOURING

AVANT GARDE

SHORTLISTED FINALISTS

Jessica Glanville, Derby College

Lexie Webster, Francesco Group

Nonie Bird, Derby College

Izabela Chomiak, Oldham College

Amy Putman, East Coast College

Samantha O'Shea, Petroc, North Devon

Evie Allen, The Link Training

Jasmine Lovatt, Preston College

Tara Bennett-Stephens, Wolverhampton City College

Caroline Williams, Telford College

RUBY KIRKE-BENNETT

AMELIA JAHANPOUR

“This is amazing. I’ve put so much work into it. I’ve loved being here with my college and seeing everyone’s work.”

“I still can’t believe it. It feels like a dream. It’s something I’ve never experienced before.”

THE HARWICH AND DOVERCOURT SIXTH FORM COLLEGE

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sponsored by

WALSALL COLLEGE

S T

Concept Hair / 13

Summer 2022 / LOY 22 ARNE

sponsored by

2022

E YE

Fellowship For British Hairdressing Spotlight Award If any more proof were needed that the standard of work created during the Learner of the Year 2022 final was incredible, judge and Fellowship Chancellor, Ashleigh Hodges was so impressed by the looks she saw, she had to name three winners for the Fellowship Spotlight Award!

YASEMIN HASSAN ALAN D HAIRDRESSING ACADEMY

JEMMA CAWLEY WEST HERTS COLLEGE

MOLLY RAYNER WEST SUFFOLK COLLEGE

“I definitely wasn’t expecting to win. So my advice would be ‘just do it’”

14 / Concept Hair

LOY 22 / Summer 2022

and the winner is!

The overall winner of Learner of the Year 2022 was the fabulously talented Amelia Jahanpour from Walsall College. Concept Hair caught up with Amelia straight after her win was announced. Here’s what she had to say. Concept Hair: How did it feel to hear your name called as Learner of the Year 2022? Amelia Jahanpour: I was trying not to cry and knew there were going to be photos. I just can’t believe it. I feel like I’m dreaming. CH: What’s been the best thing about the competition? AJ: Just taking part and being here and getting involved. It was something I have never experienced before. I really enjoyed it. CH: Talk us through your winning look AJ: I chose Gemini as my zodiac sign. I split the hair in half, with one side representing good and the other side evil. The make-up was inspired by the Chinese mythology of Yin and Yang. CH: Is there any particular area of hairdressing you would like to work in?

AJ: You may feel like you’re not good enough. I nearly didn’t enter. I definitely wasn’t expecting to win. So my advice would be ‘just do it.’ CH: How do you think winning will help your career? AJ: Once it sinks in, I’m sure a lot of doors will be opened. I just want to get better and better and see what else I can do and where I can take my creativity.

CH: Any advice to anyone thinking of entering next year’s competition?

2023

CH: What do you think of the prizes? AJ: They are amazing. I didn’t expect to get so much.

ARNE

AJ: I’d like to do session styling, working in TV and film. I do want to be doing something different all the time. I like the creative side.

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If you’ve been blown away by the work you’ve seen over the last eight pages and would like to be a part of next year’s Learner of the Year competition, keep an eye out for all the info and criteria over on our website www.concepthairmag.co.uk

Concept Hair / 15

Image credit: Indola

A big part of being a successful hairdresser is keeping up to date with current trends in hair fashion. Here’s our take on some of the colours and styles that will be hot this summer.

lients have never been more up to date on the latest trends in fashion and hair, with 24/7 access via social media or an online search to the latest celebrity looks, catwalk creations and stunning transformations. When a client visits

their hairdresser, they come armed with a wealth of information and, as the hair pro, it’s their stylist’s job to know even more about the latest trends in colour, cut and styling than they do.

Summer Style Special / Summer 2022

TREND 2

TREND 1

TREND 3

PANTONE Very Peri 17-3938

PANTONE COLOUR OF THE YEAR This year’s official Pantone colour of the Year is a bold shade of purple called Very Peri and it’s bound to have an impact on hair colour choices this season. This stunning look from Safy B, Owner of Safy B’s salon in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, epitomises the edgy look that can be created using this fierce shade.

TOP TIP

Safy B’s advice when working with bright colours like purple is to always ensure you have a clean base.

THE BUZZCUT

EXPENSIVE BRUNETTE

The buzzcut is set to be one of the statement looks for summer 2022 and, as this gorgeous image from Marcello Moccia, Owner of Room 97 Creative in Wakefield, shows, it can look beautiful on the right client. But it is a bold move to crop hair this short.

While blondes will always be big in the summer months, this season is as much about brunettes, with the emphasis on luxurious looking colour.

“A buzzcut represents a dramatic change for most clients and once done, hair is going to take some time to grow back,’ says Marcello. “If a client requests a buzzcut, as the hair professional, it’s your job to ensure they are 100% sure it’s what they want and that it will deliver the desired end result.”

TOP TIP

“Purple counteracts golden tones, therefore, to be able to achieve the vibrancy and desired colour, the base must be as clean as possible,” says Safy. “Pre-toning helps get rid of any unwanted warmth and create the perfect base.”

“Ensure the client has a healthylooking scalp before executing a buzzcut,” says Marcello. “Perhaps suggest a suitable insalon treatment to help soothe any irritation and to clear the scalp of any loose skin particles.”

@saffffy

@room97creative

Christopher Laird, Co-founder of the November Collective in Livingston, who created this expensive brunette shade, says: “For me, expensive brunettes are all about a rich mix of personalised tones that enhance a client’s cut, as well as their complexion.”

TOP TIP

“Placement is so important when it comes to this kind of colour,“ says Christopher. “So picking out the spots where the sun would naturally hit and working with ribbons of tonal difference throughout those areas – through the ends, around the face and in the halo section, for example – will create that perfect, luxury, bespoke brunette.”

@hairbychristopherlaird

Concept Hair / 17

Summer 2022 / Summer Style Special

TREND 4

TREND 5

EMBRACING CURLS AND NATURAL TEXTURE

BRIGHT COLOUR FOR MEN

“Texture is huge this season and playing around with the different effects that can be formed when texture is mixed up is particularly on trend.” says Thomas Hills, Director, TH1 Hair in Oxted, who created this stunning look, “This season, all types of hair are being embraced, encouraged and celebrated, and the spring/ summer 2022 runways were awash with trends embracing every texture imaginable. This season’s curls should be hazy, fluffy and fuzzy in texture. To master this vibe perfectly, styles should be roughed up and fluffed up.”

In his controversial cover for I.D. Magazine, Cruz Beckham sports a pink buzzcut, and this choice of vibrant colour is not exclusive to the celebrity world. The team at The Lounge in London’s Soho has seen a rise in requests for neon and bright hair from their male clients. Senior Stylist, Rosie Swindell, says: “Since lockdowns, more men are coming in to get their hair brightly coloured. A lot more men are discovering there are more ways to express themselves with hair colour than just a cut, which is very exciting.”

TOP TIP

The key to keeping this trend looking finished rather than messy is to keep the style compact,” says Thomas.

“Apply pre-lightener to make sure the hair is lifted low and slow to maintain the condition so the toner lasts longer,” says Rosie.

“Play around with textures and finishes between roots, midlengths and ends. Switch from dusty roots to glossy lengths.”

“If the client is completely new to colour, I always recommend coming in for a top-up whenever they need it.”

@thomashillshair

@theloungesohohair

18 / Concept Hair

TREND 6

WAVES AND MOVEMENT “Natural movement and waves are so popular and a great way to get the best from a client’s natural hair,” says Sharon Malcolm, Owner of Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Newtownards, Northern Ireland, who created this beautiful look. “For this look, I applied styling product using a wide-tooth comb then used a BaByliss Pro Deep Waver through the hair,” says Sharon. “Taking sections from underneath, and working through to the top, I worked along the length of the hair to enhance natural waves and add a modern edge to an everyday look.”

TOP TIP

“Prepping the hair is key to beautiful waves,” says Sharon. “Removing excess water will ensure the styling product works to its full potential. And try not to touch it when styling, hot fingers can cause wavy hair to frizz.”

@sharonmalcolmhairdressing

Summer Style Special / Summer 2022

TREND 7

TREND 8

HAIRCARE ADVICE As a professional hairdresser a big part of your role will be to offer clients haircare advice, so they can look after their locks between appointments. Summer weather can cause all sorts of havoc with hair but here are a few summer hair hacks to pass on to clients.

1 2 3 4

Ensuring hair is in the best possible condition before the summer heat sets in is key, so clients should be advised to book in for a trim presummer to get rid of any split ends. Using styling products that include a UV filter is a great way to help shield hair from sun damage. In extreme heat, a wide-brimmed hat is the best way to protect hair.

MULTI-TONAL REDS

GLAZING

This season red is set to be a dominant player, but forget flat colour and think multi-tonal looks with real dimension.

According to Wella Professionals UK Colour Trend Expert, Zoë Irwin, hair glazing will become a major trend for 2022.

This look was a bespoke colour created by Rachel Wilkinson, Creative Stylist at the Ash Heaton Moor salon in Stockport, using four shades in red, copper and violet tones. Says Rachel: “Don’t just think of blonde looks for summer - we predict that 2022 is the year for colour to break with conventional trends, bringing warm copper auburn tones into the season. The beauty of this colour is that it sits between natural and fantasy, and with the shine it imparts, it’s a real showstopper that will look incredible in the warmer months and work beautifully with tanned skin.”

“Glazing is going to be big for 2022. I’m seeing people really embracing the trend for all things glossy and glowing, from skincare — with celebrities such as Hailey Bieber's ‘glazed donut' skin routine — to people seeking treatments that bring back that healthy shine to the hair. Shine is often indicative of health, so it's no wonder people want to achieve this with their hair,” says Zoë.

A drop or two of hair oil is another invaluable tool in the fight against frizz, but it only takes a tiny amount — too much oil can weigh hair down.

Using shampoos and conditioners with moisturising properties will help avoid summer frizz. Applying a moisturising hair mask once a week will give the hair even more, much needed hydration.

TOP TIP

"Balayage the hair first with a pre lightener to create lighter dimensions in the hair,” advises Rachel.

TOP TIP

To achieve this healthy shine, Zoë recommends clients are directed towards an insalon service such as Wella Professionals new in-salon Shinefinity treatment. Says Zoë: “It helps unveil that healthylooking shine that you can see and feel, with an ultra-natural colour result.'

@ash_heatonmoor

@zoeirwinhair

Concept Hair / 19

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Summer 2022 / Interview

the interview

sister act

Rising industry star Jacqueline Kankam-Hoppe was a double winner at the 2021 Concept Hair Learner of the Year competition, taking top honours in the Colouring category and the Fellowship Spotlight Award. Recently the talented graduate stylist created her own photographic collection with the help of her boss, Karine Jackson of Karine Jackson Sustainable Hair, London.

Concept Hair: How did the collection come about? Jacqueline Kankam-Hoppe: This is my first ever collection. When I joined Karine Jackson Sustainable Hair, I made a Moodboard — I came up with the outfits, accessories and then took all my ideas to Karine to make a plan of action. CH: What was the inspiration behind the collection? JK-H: The inspiration behind the collection was to celebrate sisterhood, togetherness, love and escapism. A lot of my inspiration came from the days of slavery. During these times, women planned to escape by braiding their hair in particular patterns which would mimic the roads they needed to take. CH: Who were your models for the collection? JK-H: For the My Sisters collection, I used my friends and sisters as I wanted the collection to be as personal and authentic as possible. All the women in this collection have gone through discrimination and so I felt that it would be much more personal when telling this story.

22 / Concept Hair

“I wanted the collection to be as personal and authentic as possible”

Interview / Summer 2022

Image credits Hair by: Jacqueline Kankam-Hoppe Photographs by: Sade Russell, Advanced photography and Art Make-up by: Charlotte Lakin

CH: What would you say was the biggest lesson you took away from doing the collection? JK-H: The biggest lesson from this collection is that if you have a vision, it will not become reality if you do not put in the work. The night before the shoot, I had to do the final preps, up until 3am and I got up the next day at 6am. I was super-exhausted, but it was all worth it. CH: Do you think your win at Learner of the Year 2021 helped give you the confidence to take on a project like this? JK-H: I have been wanting to do this collection since 2019 but winning in two categories at Learner of the Year 2021 definitely pushed me to finally plan and execute my first ever photoshoot. I thought to myself, ‘if I could create a look in lockdown and enter Learner of the Year, then I can definitely do this shoot’.

“The inspiration behind the collection was to celebrate sisterhood, togetherness, love and escapism”

@donebyjacqueline

Concept Hair / 23

Summer 2022 / Interview

“The best way to introduce something into an environment is through education”

the interview

session to salon

Mikey Pearson’s passion for session styling has helped create a unique experience for clients visiting his two London-based Manifesto salons. We found out more about bringing session skills to the salon.

24 / Concept Hair

@manifesto_ldn

Interview / Summer 2022

Concept Hair: Tell us about your session styling experience before you opened Manifesto. Mikey Pearson: Before I opened Manifesto, I was working as a freelance session stylist. No two days were the same. My time was spent working on editorials, magazine covers, Fashion Week runways, films, music videos, live music performances and TV. I also worked with numerous celebrity clients from the music industry which made my day-to-day work very interesting. CH: What did you love about session styling? MP: I really loved how each day was different, not just the job but the location and vibe. CH: What makes a good session stylist? MP: There are so many types of session stylist, but they all have the same important foundation skills. You always have to be ready for anything, be on time, open-minded and well equipped — some session stylists have six suitcases full of tools for every project they work on. Most importantly, however good you are, you need to practise, practise, practise different techniques.

CH: What did you want to achieve with Manifesto?

CH: How do you combine session styling work with running two salons?

MP: Myself and my business partner, Corrado Tevere, wanted to create a new brand which would become respected in the men’s hairdressing industry — a brand that would challenge and push the limits, taking this amazing industry in a new direction.

MP: At the moment I do not have time to do session work while running the two salons but I do get to be creative with our photographic collections and stage work. I am aiming to start dedicating more time to session work now that the salons are established.

CH: How do you bring session styling skills into the salon environment?

CH: Tell me about the relationship between Manifesto and Davines.

MP: For me, it was just something I did naturally with my clients without even thinking about it. The best way to introduce something into an environment is through education. Rino Riccio, who is head of education at Manifesto, is also a session stylist, and he educates our team, introducing different techniques, building up the team’s confidence and bringing the skills into the salon.

MP: We have an incredible relationship with our product company, Davines. Our whole ethos of ‘cut technically style naturally’ and their ethos of sustainability couldn’t be a better partnership. Manifesto is the official Davines men’s education team for the UK and Ireland.

CH: What do you look for when taking on a new team member? MP: We look for someone who is passionate, open-minded, and, most importantly, someone who is a team player.

CH: Any plans for the future of Manifesto you can share with us? MP: Now things are getting more settled with the pandemic, we can get back on track with our education and start teaching live classes again. We’d also like to start travelling internationally, sharing our knowledge, so our plans for the future are very education focused.

“We wanted to create a new brand which would challenge and push the limits”

Concept Hair / 25

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New Blonde Expert Care Range

Advertorial / Indola / Summer 2022

Optimise your blonde services with INDOLA’s new and improved Blonde Expert Care range – the high-performing care you need for all blondes.

ith blondes making up 60% of colour services in the salon, there’s never been a better time to unleash your inner Blonde Expert with INDOLA. With new integrated hair-bond technology, you can ensure brilliant blonde looks with outstanding hair quality and high shine. INDOLA already provides unrivalled performance in its recently reformulated colour range, Blonde Expert, and with the collection now extended to include care products, INDOLA’s Blonde Expert meets every demand, enabling all hairdressers to offer unrivalled blonde expertise.

NEW HAIR-BOND TECHNOLOGY

The new hair-bond technology, which is now integrated in all formulas, helps to create new bonds deep inside the hair fibre, ensuring a strong and healthy looking blonde. The innovative formula features a triple-charged ion which builds new bonds by creating a three-dimensional network inside the hair fibre. These artificially created bonds create a stronger, more resilient hair structure and a healthy-looking appearance. INDOLA Global Ambassador Paddy McDougall explains why the new Blonde Expert care range meets every blonde client demand: “Blonde Expert already offers the perfect performance, range and versatility to cover all your blonde needs, now with Blonde Expert Care we can ensure a client’s blonde is protected and maintained at home. Blondes never looked better.”

“With Blonde Expert Care we can ensure a client’s blonde is protected and maintained at home”

HAIRCARE FOR BLONDES

The new haircare regime includes two ranges for different needs. InstaStrong: Strengthening and shine-enhancing and featuring: • Cleansing Shampoo • Instant Care Spray Conditioner • Intense Care Treatment The InstaStrong range is suitable for all blonde hair types and is perfect for preparing the hair before any blonde service and treating it afterwards. InstaCool: Strengthening and neutralising and featuring: • Pigmented Shampoo • Pigmented Spray Conditioner • Pigmented Conditioner The InstaCool range is suitable for all cool blonde shades and is perfect for maintaining cool shades created in the salon. The range helps to avoid unwanted warm undertones and corrects warm yellow/ orange hues immediately.

New INDOLA Blonde Expert Care is available in various wholesalers now. RRP from £5.60/€6.71 inc VAT. For more information on INDOLA visit www.indola.co.uk

Concept Hair / 27

Summer 2022 / Superstar Salons

superstar salons

The Blushes Collective

There are thousands of salons across the UK that could be the next step on your career journey. We caught up with three top employers and asked what they offer their team members.

he Blushes Collective is an award-winning portfolio of six salons, based in the Southwest of England, the Cotswolds and the Midlands. Our core purpose is to create dynamic environments where people flourish.

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES We pride ourselves on recognising the strengths of our team members and helping to coach them where they need a little guidance. We give our people the power to make their own decisions.

28 / Concept Hair

www.blushes.co.uk

ON-GOING EDUCATION

We want to enable and empower our teams by adopting a coaching style that allows people the freedom and flexibility to manage their own days, express their individual personalities and identify what support they need in order to achieve their personal ambitions. We have also turned the three-year training standard on its head to create a six-month training programme at our academy where students are now training five days a week.

MOTIVATION

Making our people feel heard and their opinions valued motivates them to succeed in their own right, which also makes the salons succeed.

WHAT WE LOOK FOR

We look for new team members who share our values, whether they are working as employed or self-employed.

Dominic Blake, Managing Director, The Blushes Collective

Superstar Salons / Summer 2022

Mewies & Co. Charnwood, Leicestershire

ewies & Co. is a luxury salon, bringing superior hair knowledge and a bespoke salon experience to Charnwood in Leicestershire. We strive to bring the best out of everyone, and make them feel appreciated and valued.

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

We have regular one-to-ones with all team members to set out goals and personal targets. Having these regular meetings means we can always ensure each team member is on the right path individually and that they are getting the correct education and guidance.

ON-GOING EDUCATION

We understand that education for the future generation of stylists is incredibly important, and we want to pass on our knowledge and love of our craft. We give ourselves an annual budget dedicated to out-of-salon courses for the team,

we also have an in-salon education day every week for our future stylists alongside their day in college.

MOTIVATION

We like to reward hard work and not let anything go unnoticed.

WHAT WE LOOK FOR

A person who is creative, passionate and committed to making people feel good. Dan Mewies, Founder, Mewies & Co www.mewiesandco.com

Roar Hair & Beauty, Glasgow

oar Hair & Beauty has two salons in Glasgow — one in Strathbungo and one in Giffnock, with salon number three coming soon. Our vision for the brand is to spread happiness not only to our guests but also within our team. Teamwork is at the heart of what we do. We look out for our younger team members and take pride in our leadership.

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

We understand that we all have different strengths and areas of expertise. A clear path for anything is down to effective communication. We hold regular oneto-one meetings with all of the team members to make sure their goals are being worked towards and achieved.

ON-GOING EDUCATION

At the beginning of each year, I dedicate time with each individual to find out what they are looking to learn that year. For example, at the beginning of 2022 I offered each team member the opportunity to travel within the UK to attend a course of their choice. Now each

team member has their own education goals for the year and can in turn share what they learn with their colleagues. Our education is non-stop and we break it down into fundamental, specialist and creative.

MOTIVATION

I believe education keeps us motivated. Continually learning and expanding skills is a great way to stay motivated. I also pride myself on going above and beyond to reward the hard work the team put in. In February this year, I took the entire team from both salons to Tenerife. This was a sign of gratitude to really show the team how much their hard work is appreciated.

WHAT WE LOOK FOR

A good attitude and willingness to learn is always what we look for first when it comes to Roar team members.

Brian Leo McCallum, Owner, Roar Hair & Beauty www.roarhairandbeauty.com

Concept Hair / 29

Summer 2022 / Don't Panic!

don’t I T'S O K! STAY POSITIVE

he truth is most common errors can be corrected, if you have the knowhow. Here, two top hairdressers give us the heads-up on how to make good when you get it wrong.

30 / Concept Hair

As hairdressers, education never stops. Mistakes will happen and you will learn from them. Here we look at some of the common mishaps that can occur, how to avoid them and how to put things right if you do slip up.

Don't Panic! / Summer 2022

@jakeunger

JAKE UNGER

@michelledavieshair

MICHELLE SUMMERS-DAVIES

Head of Education, HOB Academy

Owner Michelle Davies Hair, Goodwick, Pembrokeshire and Matrix Artist Ambassador

Bobs are back and continue to be a key trend for 2022. One of the most common mistakes when cutting a bob is to create uneven side lengths, as is accidentally creating a hole on the outline where the ear protrudes.

When colouring hair, you can end up with results that are too warm. There are many reasons why hair colour can develop too warm — an incorrect formula choice, developer strength, tone of colour and the level chosen will all affect the end result. To avoid hot or glowing roots we need to consider the NUP (natural underlying pigment) we are working with in order to make the right formulation choice.

There are ways to avoid either of these mistakes happening, and also ways to correct them.

To avoid creating uneven sides make sure your fingers or comb, sections and scissor blades are parallel to each other and working in unison. Keep the angle of your sections symmetrical on both sides. Work both sides at the same time and keep regularly checking the shape of your outline, either in the mirror or by stepping back from your client by a couple of meters to get the best view.

Don’t move on to the sides until you are certain the back is symmetrical. This way, if you do end up cutting one of the sides longer than the other, it will always be a quick and easy fix.

The main reason a hole is sometimes created on the outline around the ear is that the stylist doesn’t take into account the natural fall of the hair when sectioning the back and sides, and ends up cutting hair that belongs to the sides in the back area. Consequently, the hair will shrink more and the flow of the outline is spoilt.

To avoid this, I recommend cutting the sides with minimal tension, using the comb, keeping the hair as close as possible to the neck and releasing the tension on the hair.

Once the hair has been blow-dried, if you find you have a hole on your line, you could potentially change the angle of the line slightly to make up for the missing hair so the flow of the line stays intact. Another solution would be to texturise the outline to visually disguise the hole.

“Stay calm as this will help you to think clearly”

As colourists, we like to refer to the colour wheel. This is a very useful tool to have laminated in your toolbox for a quick reference to help solve problems like this one.

When you first see those hot or glowing roots it can be scary, but stay calm as this will help you to think clearly about what you need to do next. But there are ways to resolve the issue. First establish what level of warmth you are seeing.

Check out the colour wheel for the opposite tone for neutralising — primary, secondary or tertiary, whichever you need to counteract that glow using the right level when choosing your formula. Always consider if you need to be adding base or tone or both to correct the glow.

Apply a toner such as Matrix SoColor Sync semi-permanent as this will deposit without lifting, with a minimal processing time of 10-20 minutes. Keep an eye on it as it develops as this can deposit quickly and may not need the full time required.

Offer homecare like Matrix or Biolage Purple Shampoo as this will help maintain tone and control any unwanted warmth.

“As hairdressers, education never stops”

Concept Hair / 31

Summer 2022 / Look Book

MELISSA TIMPERLEY MELISSA TIMPERLEY Hair by: Melissa Timperley Photography by: Michael Young Styling by: Rubina Vita Marchiori Make-up by: Kirsten B

32 / Concept Hair

ROBERT EATON The Reflect collection by Robert Eaton won him the title British Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, in November 2021.

ROBERT EATON Hair by: Robert Eaton Photography by: Richard Miles Make-up by: Lucy Flower Styling by: Clare Frith

Look Book / Summer 2022

Concept Hair / 35

Summer 2022 / Look Book

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Summer 2022 / Step-by-Step

HOW TO CREATE A

ONE-LENGTH SOLID form

From Pivot Point LAB, a bespoke VTCT learning resource, this step-by-step takes you through the procedure for a one-length solid form, or bob.

These graphics show shorter exterior lengths and longer interior lengths, which allow the hair to fall in a way that gives the appearance of one length.

The diagram shows the sectioning and parting for this haircut.

Begin with a centre parting that extends from the forehead to the centre nape. With the head upright, use natural fall to cut the guideline. Position the comb diagonally on one side and cut parallel to the section with no elevation or tension.

Use the same technique on the opposite side. Note that your fingers and scissors will be parallel to the section. Check the angle of your fingers and scissors before cutting.

Work from the centre nape outwards using natural fall, no elevation and minimal tension. Cut parallel and continue to check for symmetry as you work.

38 / Concept Hair

Check balance and symmetry, observing the line in natural fall.

When the partings reach the front hairline, subsection vertically from the ears to the top of the head.

Step-by-Step / Summer 2022

Continue cutting at the centre back of the left side and work towards the front hairline, using natural fall and no elevation. Alternate from one side to the other, cutting from centre back towards the side.

When cutting above the ear, comb the hair then use the back of the comb or scissors to push the hair towards the head. The resulting slack helps to compensate for the protrusion of the ear and ensures an accurate line.

Next cut the sides, continuing with diagonal sections through to the front hairline. Keep the head upright and keep the comb parallel to the parting. Follow the guideline through from the back. Comb the hair down with no elevation and minimal tension.

Repeat on the opposite side. Check for symmetry, then continue taking parallel sections until you reach the top of the head.

finished LOOK Many styles can begin with this classic shape as the foundation. This finished look shows a sleek strong line, which can be styled with a centre or side parting.

Continue to work towards the top of the head using the same technique.

Blow-dry the cut, and with the model standing, check the line.

#PoweredByBaByliss #StyledByYou

Summer 2022 / Get Work Ready

get work ready

Find your Salon tribe

Working in a salon is the first step on the career ladder for many hairdressers, so it’s important to find the right fit for you. Here, successful salon owner, Tim Scott-Wright of The Hair Surgery in Stourbridge, offers his tips on finding the right salon to support your hairdressing dreams.

It's important to think about the type of salon you want to work at. The culture and vibe must gel with your personality and align with your values as well as offering the type of work you want to do, with the clientele you want to work with. For example, do you want to work in a salon that promotes sustainability or has a strong focus on colouring? Do you want to work in a busier city centre salon with a varied range of clients or a smaller salon that provides a steady pace to hone your skills?

42 / Concept Hair

“A salon's social media is always a good place to find out what a salon is all about”

Get Work Ready / Summer 2022

A salon's social media is always a good place to find out what a salon is all about. Its social profiles and website will show you what kind of culture the salon promotes, its team members, the services they provide for clients and the standard of their work. You will be able to tell from comments on their posts, how clients and team members feel about the salon.

It sounds simple, but a salon that is local to you will help you stay in control of your time management. There may be a big-name salon in the city but if it isn’t easy for you to get there right now, then perhaps it isn’t the right salon just yet. Hair industry magazines showcase lots of great salons and can be useful for finding out more about salons in your area. I would also recommend looking at recent hair industry award winners and finalists as these often include regional salons that are at the top of their game.

Wages and employee benefits are also an important factor when choosing a salon to work at. Wages should be fair and competitive within a package of benefits such as holiday pay and opportunities to earn commission. There is no harm in calling or dropping a salon an email to find out more about what they offer their team. Any good salon owner would be happy to take the time to explain how they help their team to progress, employee benefits and educational and professional opportunities.

You should definitely prioritise professional development while looking for a salon – a good hairdresser never stops learning. Any professional salon should offer opportunities for their team to progress in the form of in-house and external education, on-going reviews and professional industry opportunities that will help you to map out your career. Information about training and industry opportunities may be shared on a salon's social media but, again, emailing a salon to find out more is always a good idea. The salon you choose is your first step into your career and this experience will set you up for the rest of your life — it must be able to support your ambitions and nurture your growth as a hairdresser.

@timscottwrightatthehairsurgery

FREELANCE FACTORS

While taking a freelance route later in your career is an excellent option for many, a salon is a great environment in which to hone your skills and build a strong career foundation. For those that do take the freelance route, Sheila Abraham, founder of the Freelance Hairdressers’ Association offers this advice.

Ideally, gain as much experience as you can before going at it alone. It’s so important to build up a solid client base as these clients will support you in your new venture — these are the people who will talk about you and recommend your business to their friends.

You can’t rely on recommendations alone — you will also need to ensure that you are marketing your business to a wider audience. Ask your current clients to write up testimonials and recommendations then share these on your website, social media and promotional material. Ensure that your website, social media and any other advertising represents you and your business, this is key to being a successful freelance hairdresser.

Make sure that you are insured. As a freelance hairdresser, you have a requirement to have adequate public liability cover in place. This is vital however you choose to work. When you become a member of the Freelance Hairdressers’ Association, you are automatically provided with a bespoke insurance policy.

@fha_official

Concept Hair / 43

Summer 2022 / Haircare

damage control

What do you need to take into account before carrying out a chemical treatment? Debbie Digby, CEO of Passion4Hair has the answers. Which question is important before you start a chemical service? “Could this product be used on this client’s hair?” or “Should this product be used on this client’s hair?”

he answer is both questions are important. When it comes to providing chemical treatment services, you should satisfy yourself that the product can be used, in line with the manufacturer’s instructions, and should be used based on the suitability of the client’s hair for the treatment. For example, the manufacturer’s instructions may state a product is suitable for use on bleached hair. But, if that bleached hair is fine, subjected to heat straightening every day, and is

MECHANICAL

never conditioned with a repair mask, another chemical treatment may be a bad idea. It’s vital to take into consideration hair structure. Hair comprises mostly of keratin protein and has moisture content – both are essential for hair condition. If the keratin is damaged, hair loses its strength and breaks, if the moisture is depleted hair becomes brittle and snaps. It’s also important to consider hair texture. Hair may be fine, medium or thick and its durability in relation to chemical services differs from one person to another. Many types of hair damage can be avoided. Here are some examples that clients should be made aware of:

“Many types of hair damage can be avoided”

HEAT

Overuse of heated tools can cause damage. Whenever using heated tools, use heat protection products.

Brushes with missing and damaged teeth can cause damage to the hair as can hair bands or pins not used correctly. Harsh shampoos or other products can also damage the cuticle of the hair.

CHEMICAL

Frequent colour changes and other services to alter the texture of our hair can lead to lasting damage. Correct use and careful application of products may mean that one service can be done over the top of another, but eventually even the most skilled hairdresser may have to say ‘no’ in order to protect the integrity of the hair.

Passion4hair Academy in Milton Keynes offer a range of courses for all aspects and abilities. www.p4hpro.com/education-events

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Summer 2022 / Advertorial / Creative Colour

Go Wild with Colour

It’s time to get creative with Manic Panic and the latest colour trends.

ummer is coming and there’s an abundance of new colour trends for us all to create and experiment with.

Vivid colour trends continue to grow and develop putting your creative skills to the test, but fear not – Manic Panic is here to make all the hard work totally worth it with its professional vibrant hair colour range.

The Manic Panic UK Professional range consists of nine gel-based hair colours that are available exclusively to professionals.

46 / Concept Hair

The Manic Panic Professional hair colours are semi-permanent direct dyes with a semi-translucent, gel-based consistency. This makes it much easier for any professional to be totally accurate with their placement, providing the freedom to create wild and carefree hair. These specific dyes are formulated to identify and bond with the hair fibres they are applied to. Once the bond is complete, the molecules within the dye imitate the hair shaft, creating a flawless finish and maximising the colour that has been deposited. You can also count on

“The freedom to create wild and carefree hair” the Manic Panic Professional dyes for a long-lasting colour — the gentle acidic formula within these colours helps to close the hair’s cuticle and keep new colour creations vibrant for up to 40 shampoos. This summer, express your colour creativity with vibrant and long-lasting colour from the Manic Panic Professional Colour range.

Shop the full Professional Colour collection at www.manic-panic.co.uk

HELPING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS THROUGH TIMES OF HARDSHIP For more than 150 years, the Hair and Beauty Charity has helped those in our industry who have fallen on hard times. We provide practical and financial support to those who need us and their families, to make their lives a little easier. Many of our beneficiaries have given a lifetime of service to the hair and beauty industry, changing the lives of millions of people. It is our duty to see them through in their time of need.

SUPPORT, FUNDRAISE, SPONSOR or DONATE HAIRANDBEAUTYCHARITY.ORG @HBCHARITYUK

Summer 2022 / Exercises

exercises

VTCT provides Pivot Point LAB, an online learning platform, to support its Hair, Barbering and Beauty qualifications. The resources available in LAB help you develop your skills and knowledge and prepare for qualification assessments. Learn through interactive lessons, quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if they are using LAB and get started today! Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created with Pivot Point industry expertise to test your knowledge on a range of skills.

Discover more about Pivot Point Education at www.pivotpoint.co.uk

If you would like to find out more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website www.vtct.org.uk

CUTTING TECHNIQUES

Answer the following as true or false.

Texturising techniques are used to personalise a haircut and reduce weight and bulk

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

Club cutting technique is used to reduce length and bulk

Freehand technique refers to cutting the hair without holding or controlling the lengths with fingers or a comb

Point cutting is used to blend weight or soften the finished look

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER Scissor over comb is used to create short graduation and texture

TRUE

FALSE

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. 48 / Concept Hair

Exercises / Summer 2022

COLOUR

Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.

Which one of the following colours will cancel unwanted golden tones in the hair?

Ans.

Which one of the following is a base 5 on an International colour chart?

Orange

Medium brown

Violet

Light brown

Green

Dark blonde

Blue

Medium blonde

Which one of the following describes the effect of permanent colour on the hair?

Small colourless molecules are oxidised and become large, coloured molecules

Ans.

A mix of small and large molecules, stain the cuticle and partly penetrate the cortex

Small molecules penetrate into the cortex

Large colour molecules, coat the cuticle

Ans.

What are secondary colours?

Warm tones

A combination of primary and tertiary colours

Pure colours

A combination of two primary colours

Images courtesy of Pivot Point International

What is the natural undertone of light blonde hair?

Red-orange

Orange

Yellow-orange

Yellow

Ans.

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. Concept Hair / 49

Summer 2022 / Exercises

BARBERING

Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.

Which one of the following is the most important reason for using a barber chair when cutting facial hair?

Ans.

Which one of the following tools is most suitable for removing stray hairs outside the beard line?

To present a professional image and improve posture

Razor with guard

To ensure the barber’s comfort

Clippers

To prevent injury to the client and barber

Open razor

To ensure client comfort

Scissors

Which one of the following is the most suitable tool for outlining a short beard?

Ans.

Which one of the following is a care and safety guideline during a beard design service?

Thinning scissors

Disinfect single-use items

Trimmers

Call a GP if a skin tag is nicked

Razor with guard

Remove towel or neckstrip

Scissors

Remove hair clippings from client’s eyes, face and neck

Which one of the following face shapes will suit most beard designs?

Diamond

Square

Oblong

Oval

Ans.

Images courtesy of Pivot Point International

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. 50 / Concept Hair

Ans.

Exercises / Summer 2022

HAIRCARE

Answer the following as true or false.

Aftercare following a shampooing and conditioning service should include suitable products to use at home and advice on their frequency of use

When removing backbrushing, the hair should be brushed or combed from the roots to the ends to prevent damage to the cuticle

Oils can be used to help moisturise and protect Type 3 and 4 hair when blow-drying

A key ingredient in shampoo for damaged hair is citrus

Drying the hair in the direction of the cuticles will help prevent damage and bring out the hair's sheen

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER TRUE

FALSE

Images courtesy of Pivot Point International

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free. Concept Hair / 51

Summer 2022 / Hair Styling

the heat is on

Create these super-cool styles using the latest in heated tool technology and these top tips from leading stylists. T H E

LO O K

T H E

LO O K

@babylissprouk

T H E

LO O K

COOL GIRL TEXTURE

TEXTURED SHAG

TOUSLED BOB

The Stylist: Harriet Stokes

The Stylist: Sam Burnett

The Stylist: Matt Sutcliffe

PRODUCT USED:

PRODUCTS USED:

Titanium Expression Deep Waver

Italia BRAVA Hairdryer with diffuser

Italia BRAVA Dryer

Titanium Expression 19mm Curling Tong

Prima 3100 Slim Straightener

“I’m obsessed with the gorgeous texture that you can create using the Deep Waver - it’s consistent and adaptable to whatever you’re trying to do.”

TOP TIP

“The Titanium Expression 19mm Curling Tong is the perfect size to enhance the hair’s natural texture. The adjustable heat settings gave me the ultimate control to create the irregular feeling within the curls.”

TOP TIP

“The Prima 3100 is the perfect hybrid — a straightener with outside heated plates that doubles up as a curling tool, as well as offering the extra benefit of precise heat control.”

TOP TIP

First prep the hair with a salt spray and dry in to create the right texture and hold. Work with the Deep Waver through fine sections from root to tip, repeating throughout the hair.

Adjust the size of the sections and heat setting for a natural look. Use the clamp, kicking the ends of the hair in the opposite direction to the airflow for a natural finish.

Use the dryer’s concentrated airflow and angled nozzle to smooth down flyaway hairs. To create an undone wave with the straightener, move the plates in an ’S’ shape.

@harriet_stokes

@samburnetthair

@matthew_sutcliffe_tint

52 / Concept Hair

NEW BLONDE EXPERT CARE RANGE with Hair-Bond Technology

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Part of the Blonde Expert Color Range

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Discover

the full story here

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TAKING STYLING TO NEW LENGTHS

Introducing the Sericite Professional Collection. Industry-leading tools developed with Kinder Styling Technology and supported by a 5 yr warranty.

BE FIERCELY YOU

Concept Hair Magazine Summer 2022 issue

Articles inside

INTERVIEW WITH JACQUELINE KANKAM-HOPPE

INDOLA BLONDE EXPERT CARE RANGE

INTERVIEW WITH MIKEY PEARSON, MANIFESTO

STEP-BY-STEP WITH PIVOT POINT lab

SUMMER STYLE SPECIAL

20 THINGS I LOVE WITH TEGAN ROBERTSON

DON’T PANIC — LEARNING FROM MISTAKES