Isis Shawl
a pattern by Anastasia Roberts This is a solid body shawlette with a few rows of lace added in for texture and beauty. Eyelets, diamond shapes, mesh and picot stitches make for fun and
interesting stitching! This is the perfect shawlette for last minute gifts because it can be made in a weekend or less!
Please read before beginning the pattern! I am going to call this a 'recipe' rather than a 'pattern'. If you complete the rows as I've written them, you will indeed have a beautiful Isis shawlette---so don't worry. The reason I am calling this a 'recipe' is due to the versatility: there are literally
endless ways to customize this garment! Rows of solid stitching, eyelets or diamond motifs can be repeated , omitted or mixed around to alter the size. You can add beads, fringe, or use your own imagination for a different border.
In terms of yarn: Sock to DK weight are recommend, only because lace and
worsted yarns were not included in the testing process. Because this is a smaller and solid body piece, getting good drape is critical! Please swatch the first few rows
before beginning your shawl to ensure a fabric that you are happy with. As with all of my shawl patterns, I recommend using a hook size 1-2 sizes larger than your yarn
calls for. Isis is a perfect shawl to use those self-striping yarns that we all have in our stash but can't find homes for. :)
Due to the varied stitches and sporadic increases throughout the shawl, you may find that your neck edge looks a bit crooked, wavy, or uneven as you progress.
Please don't be discouraged by this. A row or two sc stitches plus a good blocking will indeed, correct this! Blocking is essential for this shawl!!!!
Last note: This is an intermediate skill level recipe/pattern! An adventurous
beginner could have success from following the instructions as per written; but any customization or alterations are suited for those with experience in shawl construction and shaping.
So let's get started! :)
Materials: At least 600 yards of sock/fingering weight yarn. More or less depending on yarn weight. Hook size depends on yarn used and personal preference. Special Stitches Used: FSC (Foundation Single Crochet)--please search online for tutorial Cluster- (worked over 3 dc's of fan from previous row)- *Yo, insert hook in next dc, yo, pull up a loop. Yo, draw through two stitches (leaving remaining stitches on hook). Repeat * twice more.....ending stitch by drawing through remaining 4 loops on hook.
Row 1: FSC 31 loosely. (Your chain will be facing the right direction, so you need not turn. Chain an extra 3 to count as the 1st dc in the next row. (So you will have 31 FSC + 3 'regular' chains). Row 2: 2 dc in base of 1st FSC. (There will be 3 dc's total in this first FSC now). 1dc in next fsc. *2dc in next fsc. 1dc in next fsc * Repeat * to * 3dc in last fsc. Turn. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc now and throughout). Dc in same stitch. 1dc in each dc across. 2dc in last dc. Turn. Row 4: Ch3. 2dc in same dc. Skip next dc. 3dc in next dc. * Skip next dc. 3dc in next dc.* Repeat to last last dc. Turn. Row 5: Ch5 (counts as first dc + ch2). Cluster over 1st 3dc group made in previous row. *Ch 2. Cluster over next 3dc group*. Ch2. Repeat from * to * around. After last cluster, make ch2, dc in last dc of the last 3dc group. (Your last 3 dc group will have a cluster, ch2 and a dc). Turn. Row 6: Ch3. 1dc in same dc. 2dc in next ch2 space (formed by the ch5 of previous row). *1dc in top of next cluster. 2dc in next ch2 sp. * Repeat * to * . 2Dc in last dc. Turn. (Note: your last ch2 sp is
formed by the 4th and 5th ch of your ch5 from previous row. You will put 2dc there. Your last 2dc will be placed in the top of 3rd ch of that same ch 5 from previous row.) Row 7: Repeat row 3 Row 8: Ch3. 1dc in NEXT dc and each dc across. Turn. (There are no increases in this row) Row 9: Repeat row 3. Row 10: Ch5 (counts as 1st dc + ch2). Skip next dc, dc in next dc. *Ch2. Skip next dc, dc in next dc.* Repeat * to * to end. Turn. Row 11: Ch3. Dc in same stitch. 2dc in next ch2 sp. *1dc in next dc. 2 dc in next ch 2 space. * Repeat * to * to last dc. 2 dc in last dc. Turn. Row 12: Ch3. Dc in next dc and in each dc across. Insert an 'extra' dc somewhere along this row to bring stitch count to odd number. (No one will notice, I promise!) ;) Turn. Row 13 & 14: Repeat Row 3. Row 15: Repeat row 4 Row 16: Repeat row 5 Row 17: Repeat row 6 Row 18: Repeat row 3 Row 19 & 20: Repeat row 8 Row 21: Repeat row 10 Row 22: Repeat row 11 Row 23: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch2). Skip NEXT dc. Dc in next dc. * Ch 2. Skip NEXT 2 dc's. Dc in next dc. * Repeat * to last 4 dc. Ch2. Skip NEXT dc. Dc in next dc. Ch2. Skip NEXT dc. Dc in last dc. Turn. Row 24: Ch 8 (counts as dc + ch3) In 1st ch 2 sp make (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) ---fan made. *Ch3. Skip next ch 2 space. In next ch 2 space make fan. * Repeat * to * around to last dc. In last dc make (fan, ch 3, dc) ALL in same stitch. Turn. Row 25: Ch 8 (counts as dc + ch3). Cluster over first fan. Ch 5. *Cluster over next fan. Ch5* Repeat * to * to last fan. Cluster in last fan. Ch3. Dc in last dc (of same fan). Turn. Row 26: Ch1. In same dc make (sc, ch4, slip stitch in 4th ch from hook, sc in same dc)---Picot made. 4 sc in next ch 3 sp. *Picot in top of next cluster. 6 dc in next ch 5 space.* Repeat * to * to last cluster. Picot in last cluster. 4 sc in last ch3 space. Picot in last dc. Turn.
Ch 1. Make 1 or 2 rows of evenly placed sc's across neck edge for stability and a neater look. Finish off. Block well! Notes: ---Concerning Row 24 & 25. Since everyone's gauge/tension will be different, use as many chains as you need (or don't need) between your fans and clusters to get the drape you desire. It won't change the pattern a bit. ---Concerning Row 26: If you do use a different number of chains than specified in the pattern, you will, of course, need to adjust the number of sc's you place in these spaces. Use one more sc than the number of chains. For example: If you made ch3 between clusters in row 25, you will make 4 sc's in those chain spaces for this row. Picots are always made in the tops of clusters. ---Concerning the entire shawl: Though I do not have specific instructions, you may easily change/adjust your shawl size by adding repeats of pattern and/or portions of the pattern. Just maintain an 'odd' number of stitches throughout. For example: You may add more 'mesh' rows in place of the solid pattern. Or you may omit the mesh rows altogether and replace with cluster rows. Just make sure your row always ends with an odd number!!! :) Alternate Instructions For Border (if you do not care for the lacy effect of the original pattern, here is an alternative for a more solid look.) Row 24: Ch 3 3dc in 1st ch 2 space and in EVERY space. 1Dc in last dc. Turn. Row 25: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch2) Cluster over 1st 3dc group. Ch 2. *Cluster over next 3dc group. Ch2 * Repeat * to * to last 3dc group. Cluster over last dc group. Ch 2. Dc in last dc. Turn. Row 26: Follow instructions for original pattern, but placing 3 sc's in each ch 2 space and a picot in top of each cluster.