Pupul: Grassroots Kapampangan Cooking (DRAFT ONLY)

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Pupul: Grassroots Kapampangan Cooking A compendium of heirloom recipes prepared by Kapampangan medical doctors A flagship project by Dr. Alice T. Buan

Photo and Text by Ruston Banal

Published by:

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Copyright © 2020 by The Pampanga Medical Society All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the publisher, addressed “Attention: Permission from the Author” at the address below.

Publisher: The Pampanga Medical Society The book is a project initiated by Dr. Alice Tuazon Buan Author: Ruston Banal Editor: Robert Larue A commissioned project awarded to Ruston Banal and Iconopixel Concept Artist and Art Director: Ruston Banal Text and Research: Ruston Banal and Iconopixel Photographer: Ruston Banal Additonal Photography: Guia Hasegawa Tolentino Photoretouching and editing by Ruston Banal Jr and Guia Hasegawa Tolentino Cover Illustration Copyright © 2020 by Guia Hasegawa Tolentino Cover design by Guia Hasegawa Tolentino Book design and production by Guia Hasegawa Tolentino and Iconopixel Team Editing by Iconopixel Layout Artist by Guia Hasegawa Tolentino and the Iconopixel Team Printed in the Philippines.

ISBN:

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Introduction: For chefs who do not speak Kapampangan, “Pupul” means “Harvest.” The bountiful harvests of Pampanga have always inspired cooks, leading to the province’s fame as the culinary capital of the nation. When we lived in the US, whenever we met other Philippinos, the first thing they always said, upon learning that my wife is Kapampangan, was, “Oh, she must be a good cook!” OK, some of them looked at my waistline first, but, yes, it is definitely true, Kapampangans are fantastic cooks.

I admit that, for my American and European educated taste buds, some of these recipes are challenging to appreciate. My wife just laughs and proclaims how much wonderful food I am missing. Even though I have willingly tried every food I have encountered, there are a few dishes I mostly appreciate from afar! Despite that, Ruston Banal’s photos and the descriptions of the cooking processes have convinced me to give those dishes a second tasting! I am certain to discover some manyaman surprises.

All of the contributors to this book are doctors.

Culinary creations described here originate in their family recipes, handed down for generations. They employ native ingredients in traditional ways, with only a few touches of modern influence.

In keeping with traditional techniques, many of the recipes provide only estimated measurements for each ingredient. A significant aspect of the art of cooking is learning how to judge amounts by sight and taste. The directions will guide the new cook, but only experience will produce the full-flavored potential of these delights.

Family members dining on these dishes, and desiring a second or third helping, can always claim that they are only following the doctors’ orders!

Mangan!

Robert LaRue, editor Angeles City, Pampanga May 2020

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Defining Culinary Capital

What exactly is a culinary capital?

The naming of Pampanga as a culinary capital may be a recent identification. If we look at Food defines the environment in which it online sources of the pre-Facebook period of evolves. Native ingredients and preparation 2005, we hardly see any online articles that techniques combine with foods and ideas from feature Pampanga owning the brand. If we find far reaches to create unique interpretations one, it’s self-imposed by Kapampangan writers. forever identified with specific locations. Some This self-imposition highlighting Pampanga in regional specialties and cooking processes the culinary history map of the Philippines only become synonymous with those regions. began to appear when food practices and the Pampanga and its Kapampangan cooking food industry became online sensations. Online have become world famous as the province news networks started to capitalize on the trend hosting the best cooks in the nation, as a result by creating documentaries and stories featuring of centuries of contact with the world. Today, food. The proximity of Pampanga to Manila made food tourism to Pampanga has become well it convenient for writers and journalists to quickly established, as “foodies” travel from afar to develop stories. Referrals to food destinations visit and taste the delicious attractions of the in the province were swift, since contacts were Culinary Capital of the Philippines.1 easy to establish since many Kapampangans worked in the TV networks. Formal branding as The democratization power of social media the “Culinary Capital of the Philippines” can be has filled the internet with images of food. attributed to a report posted on Facebook by Posted, whether by famous bloggers, a a Kapampangan artist, Josie Henson in a 1993 feature writer of culinary traditions, a celebrity article promoting Angeles City as the “culinary food critic, a family having dinner at a newlycapital of the Philippines,” idealizing a new image opened Samyupsal restaurant, or a millennial of the city, countering the impression of it only bragging about what he had for breakfast, being a “Sin City” during the American Period.4 food and talking about it has created a sense “The editor of this book, however, points out that of belongingness. In a 2017 report featured in the cooking identification was common even 50 Huffpost, entitled “An Obnoxious 69 Percent Of years ago.”

Millennials Take Photos Of Food Before Eating: If you didn’t ‘gram your food, did you even In a book entitled Culinary Capital, published really eat it?,” a website research company in 2013, the authors stated that specific food claimed that 69% of millennials take photos of practices give people a sense of distinction their food before eating.2 In Korea, a particular within their communities. The concepts of food novel food practice, called Mukbang, has as an economic and cultural commodity, a created significant online revenue for video demonstration of how a society’s food practices content creators that show actual food eating circulate and challenge prevailing values and in an interactive and real-time sequence where ideologies, and an understanding of how these the audience can ask questions directly to the are all connected to the work of creating and blogger while they are eating.3 As an economic sustaining a sense of self, all combine to create commodity, consuming food has become a the organizing concept that constitutes the status symbol. essence of a culinary capital. 5 A culinary capital is far more than just a destination. We often refer to Baguio City as the “Summer Capital of the Philippines,” whereas 1 Gimblett, Barbara Kirshenblatt, Fernandez, Doreen “Culinary Capital” describes the broader context G. “Culture Ingested: On the Indigenization of Philippines of society’s dynamics, involving economic and Food”. Tribute. https://www.nyu.edu/classes/bkg/web/ commodities as well as geographic location. fernandez.pdf. Accessed in January 30, 2020. This article presents a wonderful overview of the evolution of Philippino cooking and even includes a useful glossary of food and cooking terms.

2 Amatulli, Jenna. “An Obnoxious 69 Percent Of

A culinary capital is more inclusive of a society’s or a community’s assets of food and environmental resources that make its food

Millennials Take Photos Of Food Before Eating: If you didn’t ‘gram your food, did you even really eat it?”. www. huffpost.com. Huffington Post. March 01, 2017. Accessed on January 30, 2020. Amatulli, Jenna. “An Obnoxious 69 Percent Of Millennials Take

4 Henson, Josie D. “The Role of Angeles in Philippine History”.Fiestang Kuliat Souvenir Program.1993

3 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mukbang

Capital. Bloomsbury Academic. 2013.

5 Naccarato, Peter and Lebesco, Kathleen. Culinary

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practices not purely unique, but inclusive of historic contributions from other regions and places.

hurt and angry whenever somebody steals our soul and identity and calls it simply Filipino food rather than a Kapampangan dish. Worse is when you twist it and play around with it to the point that we can no longer recognize ourselves in it.” 7

Nuances of cooking in Pampanga As I travelled around the different towns in the Kapampangan region, I came to realize that the methods of cooking a particular dish varied significantly, depending on the recipe inherited from the ancestors of the one who cooked it, or by the influence of other regions that had fused into Kapampangan sensibilities-forming a hybrid version of the dish. When I posted the recipe of my adobu (I read an e-book on cooking that claimed adobu was a simple type of curry), a lot of people messaged me on Facebook that their versions of adobu were quite different from what they read in my article. Malou, from Santa Rita Pampanga, even said that according to her grandfather, the real Kapampangan adobu is the one that has no soy sauce, with the main ingredients solely based on vinegar and black pepper. Adobung Malangi is what she called it.

Another cook, from Candaba, said that my type of adobu, which has a mixture of soy sauce, vinegar, and a laurel leaf, comes close to their jumba, another type of a dish made with a pig’s toe boiled and dried, with a sweet taste. The only difference, she said, was that my adobu did not include a little sugar to caramelize the whole dish.

Now to consider the widely popular signature Kapampangan dish, sisig, I grew up helping my Indu prepare this famous dish. She boiled the pig’s head and ears, eliminating the hair and other residue. The next step was to chop the pig parts into tiny bits, then soaking it in a sizeable sartin bowl of aslam sasa (palm vinegar), which I used to buy in Tinajero, Bacolor. She would not let any other type of vinegar spoil the taste of the sisig.

Only aslam sasa keng Tinajero would do. That was before the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo. Seasoned with hard-core onions and pepper, she would then let the sisig marinate for more than an hour before serving. We call this sisig mabuktut.6 Today, sisig has many versions. Kapampangan advocates are adamant in not letting a cultural icon be deconstructed, as they think it destroys the concept. As Mike Pangilinan, a cultural historian, said, “For we Kapampángans, cooking is not a mere hobby or a pass time. It is an essential part of our identity. It is an expression of who we are as people. It is our soul. Therefore, we get

6 Banal, Ruston. “Where did this gastronomic sizzler come from?”. GMA News Online. September, 2014. https:// www.gmanetwork.com/news/lifestyle/food/381328/sisigwhere-did-this-gastronomic-sizzler-come-from/story/

When we speak about change, we should talk about enrichment for the better.

The Kapampangan revolt against putting egg on top of sisig extends beyond criticism. It spreads to the floor of discourse that defends the socio-cultural position of the dish in their ways of life, identity, and integrity. Evolution is always acceptable if changes maintain the context of the food. But putting an egg in an already perfect recipe is seen as an outright bastardization of the Kapampangan ethos. It is an insult to a process that has its genesis in a direct transfer of legacy from their ancestors.

The novel idea of egg on sisig only functions as a visual appeal and has nothing to do with its hundred-year-old heritage.

Doreen Gamboa Fernandez, a highlyacclaimed food historian, cited in her book cuisine is supposed to be enriched, rather than bastardized; its integrity kept; its dynamism that of judicious response to change. She said that it’s not really about indigenization but the process of how it becomes indigenized.8 Acceptable is the idea that food should be enjoyed by the one who consumes it, according to how one prepares it. When people consider food as a source of status, reflecting cultural and economic values, this power relation can stay intact, if those values are respected. It is through these dynamics that food evolves into perfection. The evolving perfection of Kapampangan food continues to ensure its designation of Culinary Capital of the Philippines.

-Ruston Banal, author

7 Banal, Ruston. “Sisig with egg and mayo? Thanks, but Kapampangans aren’t having any of that”. GMA News Online. April, 2018. https://www.gmanetwork.com/news/ lifestyle/food/651699/sisig-with-egg-and-mayo-thanks-butkapampangans-aren-t-having-any-of-that/story/ 8 Fernandez, Doreen, Gamboa. Tikim: Essays on Philippine Food and Culture. Pasig, Metro Manila, Philippines: Anvil Publishing, 1994.

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Table of Contents 1.ASAN DANUM 8 Pangat Asa-Asa king Kalamunding Pusit Talangka a Ginisa Pesang Bulig Lagat Itu

2.MIKI SABO Bulanglang a Bangus Sempalukan a Manuk Suam Mais Sale Manuk

10 14 18 22

26 28 32 36 40

3.MIKI BABI MIKI MANUK 44 Sisig Kapampangan Mechadung Baka Lenggua Kapampangan Kilayin Kapampangan Adobung Maputi Vianda ning Arayat Tidtad Pusung Saging Kalderetang Bibi

4.MIKI NASI Barali ning Apalit Biringi / (birngi) Pistu Kapampangan Paella Valenciana Burung Asan/ Tagilo

46 54 58 62 66 70 74 78

82 84 88 92 96 100

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5.PAG MAYUMU AT PAG MININDAL Tibuk-Tibuk Pancit Opu Ginilu ampo Patulbad Patcu ning Guagua Rice Pudding Sampelut

104 106 110 114 118 122 126

6.SAMPUT SAMPUT 130 Chicken Kari Mushroom Chicharon Chicken Tropicana

132 136 140

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ASAN

DANUM

MENU FOR TODAY! Pangat Asa-Asa king Kalamunding Pusit Talangka a Ginisa Pesang Bulig Lagat Itu

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When you say asan danum in Kapampangan, it refers to both freshwater or sea water fish cooked as a dish. The recipes presented in this first chapter will introduce you to the dishes commonly prepared by the people living in the lower Pampanga region especially those who are near the river. Towns like Guagua, Sasmuan, Masantol, Macabebe, and parts of Lubao share almost the same process of cooking as raw ingredients and the source of these marine lives are culled from the same area of the Pampanga River. Asan Danum are usually dishes served during dinner since these are cooked with a souring agent that were prepared from a fresh catch in the morning.Â

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CHAPTER 1 Asan Danum

Pangat Asa-Asa king Kalamunding 12

My aunt Claire Sason Velez was the one who taught me how to cook this dish when I was just eight years old.

I remember that even during my childhood years, I always liked dishes that had calamansi dips or, what we call in in Kapampangan. tiltilan. As a personal preference, I like to prepare and serve a pangat dish more sour than it is usually being served. I also only use calamansi as the souring agent, even though some recipes suggest that vinegar is also an option.

As part of our household natural ingredients, we were able to maintain four calamansi trees in our backyard, so they became the source every time we needed some for our cooking.

Dr. Jocelyn V. FERNANDO

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SASMUAN

Pangat Asa-Asa king Kalamunding

PAN

3-4

AVERAGE

asa-asa (Short Mackerel) calamondin/Calamansi onions garlic ginger tomato salt

Recently, I came across Kapampangan chef Lilian Borromeo’s book Atching Lillian’s Heirloom Recipes: Romancing the Past Through Traditional Calutung Capampangan. After reading it, I adapted and combined her cooking style with my own.

The style of cooking in this recipe is to use your hands to mash all the ingredients together, except the fish. This is to extract the flavors of all the ingredients just before they get to the fire.

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1 HR 30 MIN

Start off by cutting the sibuyas (onions), bawang (garlic), laya (ginger), and kamatis (tomatoes) according to your preferred shapes and sizes.

Some cooks might want to make the garlic and ginger prominent in the dish, while others want to cut them thin and small, to turn them almost invisible when cooked. Either way will do.

In a pan, combine these cut-up ingredients with black pepper (pounded), water and asin (salt) to taste. Use your hands to mash these ingredients together. Pour enough calamonding extract, to submerge the ingredients completely.

Arrange the hasa-hasa on top of the submerged ingredients in a way that makes it easy for you to remove them later. Once complete, put the pot on to boil. To achieve the best result, you can start with a big flame, and once the dish boils, turn it to low heat. After three minutes, turn the flame off and let it cool down. Remember sour dishes are best eaten when they are cold.

I am a doctor by day and a chef during nights and weekends.

I love to eat good food with family and friends. In order to get fit, I walk, and dance to the beat of the chacha with my son. My mantra in life is that you need to live life to the fullest.

One of the greatest fulfillments that I can share with you is that I am a regular volunteer for several charity works in the Philippines.

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CHAPTER 1 Asan Danum

Pusit Talangka a Ginisa 16

The Taba Ning Talangka is a very popular Kapampangan dish that is produced all year round in towns such as Sasmuan, Macabebe and Masantol, where big fishponds are located.

Talangka production reaches its peak during the rainy season, where they can be found, not just in fishponds, but also in the areas where the freshwater of the Pampanga River mixes with the salt water of Manila Bay. It could have been that the abundance of the talangka (crabs) in the early 20th century led to an oversupply.

Kapampangans preserved the excess talangka by extracting their fats and sautĂŠing them.

I learned to cook this when I migrated to the town of Guagua, after my marriage to my husband, who is a native of that town.

Dr. Agnes D. FERNANDO

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GUAGUA

Pusit Talangka a Ginisa

PAN

8 - 10

DIFFICULT

4 HR 30 MIN

extract 1 kilo of Pisit Talangka from 3 kilos of crabs. talangka (freshwater crabs) aslam (vinegar) bawang (garlic)

Guagua has a rich supply of freshwater crabs and there are never days that you cannot find these little creatures being sold in the wet market in Consignacion. The Taba Ning Talangka is almost as popular as caviar in the Philippines, and some vendors even create fake versions of this by adding flour as an extender.

In cooking the Taba Nang Talangka, the first thing to do is to extract the raw fats of the fresh crabs by either doing this manually or by the use of a “pamusit,” a wooden extractor device where, after opening the cover shell of the crab, its body is placed on a metal plate that has holes, and is squeezed, by using a hammer, to extract the essential fats. Through this process you can

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After getting all the fats, prepare the bawang (garlic) and aslam (vinegar). The standard ratio is that 1 kilo of Tabang Talangka needs 2 cloves of bawang (garlic). In a pan, sauté the grated garlic until it gets golden brown. Take note that you only need to use a moderate amount of cooking oil, just enough to fry the garlic, as the Tabang Talangka itself is made of oil and fats.

You need to pay attention to the taba as you mix it in with the garlic, stirring thoroughly until they become unified. Once this happens, add some aslam (vinegar) to it. Lower the flame, and without doing anything to the mixture, let it simmer for several minutes until the vinegar evaporates. Once it does, you need to add salt to taste.

Let the dish cool, then put it in a container and tightly seal it. The Taba Ning Talangka can be used as a stand alone dish in any meal, or as an add on flavor, or garnish, in other foods, such as pasta. Some even use it as a spread for sandwiches and cookies.

I am a native of the town of Mexico. I grew up in the middle of farmland where our neighbors attended to their carabaos early in the morning before they took them to the rice fields they cultivated. This environment made me love cooking the traditional way, and I continue that as I grow older. Fastforwarding into the future, I am now a doctor and have children that are also in the medical and culinary fields. My life has been fulfilled the way I dreamed it.

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CHAPTER 1 Asan Danum

Pesang Bulig 20

My mother was the one who taught me how to cook a lot of dishes. Even at the young age of seven, my siblings and I were pretty much aware of our regular obligations to prepare our food. It was because of those chores that I learned many types of cooking.

Dr. Randy G. PENA

SASMUAN

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Pesang Bulig

POT

3-5

AVERAGE

2 HOURS

The sizes of these ingredients depend on your preference, as some like to have these in big chunks. When these three turn golden brown, pour in the patis (fish sauce), and mix it thoroughly. Afterwards, put the cleaned bulig (mudfish) into the mixture in an arrangement that will be easy for them to be pulled out when serving. While in the pot, cover the bulig (mudfish) with the sautĂŠed ingredients. Let it stand for a few minutes as the fish absorbs the oils and flavors. Pour in enough rice water to cover the fish. After the rice water, add the repolyu (small cabbage), the pachay and the patatas (medium potatoes) ; Let it all boil. Once it reaches the boiling point, add asin (salt) to taste.

bulig (mudfish) cooking oil patatas (medium potatoes) sibuyas (onion) bawang (garlic) laya (ginger) asin (salt) paminta (black pepper) patis (fish sauce) bunch of pechay repolyu (small cabbage) 4 cups of rice washing

In cooking the Pesang Bulig, I usually fry the patatas (medium potatoes) and bulig (mudfish) to start with. I prefer to do that as it lets the centers thoroughly cook before pouring them into the boiling liquid mixture. In the pot, sautĂŠ the cut up bawang (garlic), laya (ginger) and sibuyas (onion) with just enough cooking oil to soak them.

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You need to remember when boiling the bulig (mudfish), it should be monitored carefully, as they have soft tissues that will disintegrate when overcooked. There should be a balance between how done the mudfish is, and the vegetables that cook during the simmering procedure.

Serve it hot.

I was born as the second child of a simple family from a faraway land. As a child, I dreamed of becoming a prince of the world and living a bountiful life. When I was born, my mother told me that I was a bouncing baby boy, so she gave me a nickname of “kundol� ( winter melon). In my childhood, I ran errands and aspired to become a car mechanic and even thought about becoming a gasoline boy. Surprisingly, I ended up as a physician: a proud MD and a proud promDI.

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CHAPTER 1 Asan Danum

Lagat Itu 24

If I am not mistaken, I learned this dish 20 years ago. It was a dish my wife always cooked until I started to learn her process. Since then, we cook this alternately, and it has become a dish that is a sought-after in the kitchen.

One of the most essential ingredients of this dish, that makes it uniquely Kapampangan, is the aroma produced by the alagaw leaves and ange (fresh turmeric).

Dr. Johnny Michael

O. Mangulabnan

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MASANTOL

Lagat Itu

PAN

2-4

AVERAGE

1 HR 30 MIN

You need to occasionally check the moisture to make sure there is still fluid remaining in the pot when you turn off the flame. Set this aside and prepare a sautĂŠing pan.

In the pan, sautĂŠ the bawang (garlic), sibuyas (onion), ange (fresh ground turmeric) and lastly, alagaw leaves. Do not over cook the garlic and onion. Into this mixture, add the itu to the pan, then pour in the broth. Let this simmer for a couple of minutes until the color of the turmeric is absorbed by the itu.

Itu (catfish) alagaw leaves ange (fresh turmeric) laya (ginger) Larang pamaksi (green chili) aslam (vinegar) asin (salt) paminta (black pepper) bawang (garlic) sibuyas (onion)

Let the dish cool down before serving.

The first part in cooking this dish is to boil the itu in a pot with equal amounts of water and vinegar..

Adding asin (salt) and paminta (black pepper) to this mixture, the itu needs to absorb all these ingredients by letting them boil for around 10 minutes.

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When I was young, there were two things that terrified me: One was the sound of ambulance sirens; Second was the sight of hospitals. Little did I realize that one day I would become a doctor, and chase the things I used to run away from.

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MIKI SABO

MENU FOR TODAY! Bulanglang a Bangus Sempalukan a Manuk Suam Mais Sale Manuk

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Miki Sabo are soup-based dishes that are usually served as the main course for lunch which can be found not only in Pampanga but in nearby provinces in Central Luzon. The abundance of plants and trees that function as the agents that define the name of the soup made the dishes such as Suam Mais, Sale Manuk, Bulanglang a Bangus, Sempalukan a Manuk as sought after dishes that perpetually satisfy every mouth and stomach of the Kapampangan. Corn crops, guava trees, tamarind trees, and lemongrass are the main raw ingredients that can be found even in the neighborhood and became an everyday source of survival for any soup-based Kapampapangan recipes.

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CHAPTER 2

Maki Sabo

Bulanglang a Bangus 30

As a kid who grew up in a region where we love food, it was my regular errand to look for root crops in our backyard every time my mother cooked.. We had a huge garden where root crops, like taro and talbus kamuti, were abundant. They usually became ingredients in our daily food. One of my favorite dishes of all time was Bulanglang Bangus. This kind of soup dish is not exclusive to milkfish, as the version with pork is more popular, the bangus version, for me, is healthier, and the taste is richer since there are no oils from meat fats.

Dr. Paolo M. CASTILLO

GUAGUA

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Bulanglang Bangus

POT

4-5

EASY

1 HR 30 MIN

the guavas are boiled and squeezed flat on the pot’s surface using a ladle. Once you see the guava soup starts to boil regularly, add the peeled taro which has been cut into the desired shapes. This should be the first ingredient to be poured into the boiling bayabas. Because taro is a root crop, it takes a longer time for it to soften. Reduce the flame to a small flame, to allow a few minutes for this process to take place. Add salt to taste.

Ingredients: bangus (milkfish) byabas a malulut (half a kilo of ripe byabas are enough for two big size bangus) gabi (taro root) okra talbus kamuti (sprouting sweet potato leaves and buds) balasenas (eggplant) larang pamaksi (green chili)

Take note that some would screen off the guava tissues to make a clean looking soup, but that is a personal preference. I prefer that the guava tissues are lurking in the soup.

The preparation of this dish is as simple as boiling the ingredients, watching for which of them soften faster. The bangus, cleaned, and if you prefer, deboned, should be cut into 4 parts in a slanting fashion. Set this aside. In the pot, boil the bayabas, where the ratio would be one-half kilo of guavas to two liters of water. Some cooks peel the bayabas, as it doesn’t look very pretty in terms of aesthetics, but I prefer to leave the skin on. The skin adds a combination of sour and sweet once

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Once the taro is done cooking, put the bangus in the pot, arranging them so they are easy to take out when you start serving them in a bowl.. Cover the pot for a few minutes while maintaining the flame. Add the larang pamaksi, and cover them in the boiling soup. Last, add the okra, balasenas and talbus kamuti.

Cover the pot and let it simmer for around five minutes. Take note that you don’t need to mix these vegetables in the guava soup as they will gradually be soaked through..

Put the flame out and serve it hot.

I am a fun, energetic, ambitious individual who has developed a mature and responsible approach to any task that I undertake. I am independent and ready for any challenges in life. I am a committed, caring and compassionate Pediatric surgeon with a great passion for helping sick Filipino children.

I am thankful to be blessed and have the heart to share it with others.

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CHAPTER 2

Maki Sabo

Sempalukan a Manuk 34

Baryu cooking is always the best, if you were to ask me. Even when I was a child, my parents would leave me as they left for a day’s toil of farming, and would expect that a meal had already been prepared when they returned home for lunch. Sometimes, they took me with them to the wet market, early in the morning, at the Floridablanca palengki to buy ingredients. I would then go home to prepare the dish. I can say that among the dishes I learned to cook perfectly, Sempalukang Manuk was the all-time favorite.

Dr. Antonio M. MORALES

LUBAO

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Sempalukan a Manuk

POT

5-7

DIFFICULT

3 HR 30 MIN

adds to the overall taste of the dish. Boil this under two liters of water and let the chicken turn soft for several minutes. dumalagang manuk (fresh chicken) ebun ginawuk (raw eggs taken from the womb of the chicken) sampaluk (tamarind) Labanus (raddish) Kamanyang (stringbeans) gandus ( taro root) larang pamaksi (green chili) okra Kangkong (water spinach)

In a pan, sautĂŠ the ginger and onions and when they turn golden brown, add the fish sauce until you smell its aroma. Add water and drop in the taro root (that should be peeled already).

Let this boil for a few minutes, then pour the mixture into the boiling chicken and sampalok soup. Stir these ingredients thoroughly and add the ebun ginawuk afterwards. Close the lid and simmer for about 5 minutes. Add the labanus, kamanyang, okra and larang pamaksi all at the same time. Cover the pot again and let it boil for a few minutes. While boiling, put the kangkong on top of the mixture and cover it again.. Adjust the range to a high flame for 1 to 2 minutes.

Sempalukang Manuk starts with boiling the chicken in a pot large enough to contain a whole medium sized chicken. I usually use half a kilo of sampaluk for a chicken this size. Cut the sempaluk into about ten parts. It is advisable to use a whole chicken on this particular dish as it contains parts that secrete essential flavor that

Serve it hot.

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Born to parents that made their livelihood as farmers, my mother called me Dag-Dag (some more) when I was a kid. This naming was actually life-affirming as I retained this sensibility as I grew up. I challenged myself that in everything I did, I had to do with “some-more,” and strived to become more excellent. So I did, and I became a doctor. Everytime you call my name, think about this: A doctor and more or less, a cook, or a farmer equals “morals.”

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CHAPTER 2

Maki Sabo

Suam Mais 38

Cooking is a natural skill in our household. My mother always tells me that the best way to determine if the person can cook is based on how the sautéed mixtures of garlic and onion appear in the final dish. ”They should not be visible.” As I grew up, this has been my personal practice, while also accepting other styles of cooking, I must admit that I am open to any type of fusion or stylized cuisines, but at the end of the day, a dish that we’ve known and shared as a family should stay in the form and shape as it was taught.

For me, changing the way it was fashioned, in our way of life, changes the memories embedded in it.

Dr. Alice T. BUAN

ARAYAT

39

Suam Mais

POT

5-7

DIFFICULT

4 HOURS

other ingredients in the mixture. Initially, scrape the corn kernels off the cob (busal ning mais), as you don’t include the corn cob in the process. It’s a safe equation to consider that 2 liters of water is enough for 1 kilo of corn kernels that have been scraped off the cob. Boil the kernels over a low fire, to extract the oils that make up the savory taste of the corn.

mais a maputi (maiz blanca) pichu (chicken breast) paro (shrimp) bulung lara (chili pepper leaves) Laya(ginger) laya (garlic) sibuyas (onions) patis (fish sauce) bulung lara (chili pepper leaves)

The Suam Mais we grew up with is actually almost the same as other swam mais I tasted in different households here in Pampanga. I think, since Pampanga is a land where corn is abundant, especially in my hometown of Arayat, the source of most mais is the same.

In preparing the dish, one must choose the mais a maputi. Other types, like Japanese Sweet Corn, will not yield the same result, in terms of consistency and taste.

Sweet corn is so sweet that it intrudes into the taste of

40

On a separate cooking stove, start sautĂŠing the bawang (garlic), laya (ginger), sibuyas (onion), paro (shrimp) and pichu (chicken breast) pieces in a pan. The shrimp need to be peeled and deveined.

Sizes and shapes of the shrimp and chicken pieces may be based on your preference, but always take note that this is a soup based dish, so the chicken meat only serves as flavouring, and not the central element of the dish. Ideally, the chicken should only be cut into small pieces. Fish sauce should be added while the mixture sizzles. Once these ingredients are thoroughly mixed and cooked, you only need to add the mix to the boiling soup. Check to see that the corn kernels have broken apart. As you pour this mixture into the pot, you need to mix it very well, while maintaining a moderate flame. Pour the bulung lara (chili pepper leaves) into the soup.

The best indicator that the dish is done, is when corn oil floats to the surface of the soup. Serve the dish hot.

During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” (just rhyming the words).I was usually first in line during assembly for Monday flag ceremony. I’ll let you figure out why.

My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others in court But, as it turned out, I became a doctor. It was the same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect others from illness.

41

CHAPTER 2

Maki Sabo

Sale Manuk 42

Sale Manuk is a dish that is served on all occasions. Though it’s not an everyday dish commonly served during lunch time. Whenever we are celebrating our town fiesta in Betis, there is no other dish occupying as large a space on the dining table as the Sale Manuk. Within a day’s span, where people come and go, a Sale Manuk is on non-stop offer for the guests, even when other dishes have run out. This is because it’s inexpensive to make,while giving a high-end savory taste that always makes them ask for more.

Dr. Claro V. Cayanan

ARAYAT

43

Sale Manuk

POT

5-7

DIFFICULT

6 HOURS

as an agent to strip out the gamey smell and taste of the native chicken just before you add water for the soup. Once the mixture of spices turns golden brown, add the pieces of chicken. Let the chicken mix with the other ingredients. Once the skin of the chicken becomes firm because of the heat, turn the stove off. Set aside this pan.

native chicken sale (lemongrass) dayang manuk (coagulated blood) laya (ginger) bawang (garlic) sibuyas (onion)

Prepare a pot big enough to accommodate the chicken. Bend several pieces of lemongrass and align them in an encircled position inside the pot.

Add two liters of water, a handful of asin and let it boil. Once it’s boiling, pour in the chicken mixture, the giblets and any eggs you get from the fresh chicken. Set the stove to a low flame for a slow boil.

My recipe for sale manuk is straight forward. Native chickens are very common in the palengke, as long as you go early in the morning to the wet market to get them alive. “Bulbulan” is the process of defeathering the chicken after boiling it for a few minutes. Cutting its head off, the blood will be drained into a container for later usage. It’s part of the recipe.

Cutting the whole chicken into a maximum of 10 pieces, prepare a pan for the sautéing procedure. On a high flame, fry the bawang, sibuyas and laya. The laya serves

44

Since the native chickens have meat that takes longer to tenderize by heat, let it boil for around 1 hour, occasionally checking and tasting until it archives the ideal taste, which is a combination of tangy from the lemongrass, and savory from the other spices and the chicken. The chicken blood, which has solidified, is cut into cubes and added to the boiling dish. Cover the lid and let it boil for another 5 minutes.

Serve it hot.

I grew up in a barrio called San Juan Bautista and was one of the boys usually enjoying the tambay sessions we called “leletete.� Let me say that I grew up as a conservative Catholic and I am still very traditional in terms of my taste when it comes to fashion and food. I became a doctor and traveled to different places, but I still go back to where I feel comfortable-that is my hometown.

45

3

MIKI BABI

MIKI MANUK

MENU FOR TODAY Sisig Kapampangan Mechadung Baka Lenggua Kapampangan Kilayin Kapampangan Adobung Maputi Vianda ning Arayat Tidtad Pusung Saging Kalderetang Bibi

46

If there is a culinary capital that doesn’t discriminate, the Kapampangan food is one. In this province, a lechon kawali or a karikari can be enjoyed both by the richest class and even the people in the slum. A common notion about the Kapampangan culinary set up is the fact that pork and chicken meat would never be out in the regular gastronomical delights of the local people. In fact, a major percentage in the line up of Kapampangan recipes are pork-based diet that never ceases to become a permanent casual food on the table. In the earlier days, some families have their own little piggery in their backyard or a poultry the breeds chickens enough to be cooked for the impending town fiesta.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Sisig Kapampangan 48

The original Sisig Kapampangan, done correctly, has these three things : No mayonnaise; no fancy ingredients; and definitely no egg. Although the dish was popularized by Aling Lucing’s sisig, it is sisig Benedict that is closest to my heart. The sisig of my childhood was served in a now closed restaurant where we used to sit atop bamboo stilts, over a free flowing semi-aquarium/fish pen at its base.

As kids we would watch for passing catfish or mudfish while waiting for the star of the show, our sisig. In this place the servers were all deaf-mute. The open air that let in the cool breeze of yesteryears was where sizzling sisig was first innovated. That was the sisig closest to my heart. Lets eat!

Dr. Michael James DELA CRUZ

49

ANGELES

Sisig Kapampangan

PAN

7 - 10

DIFFICULT

5 HOURS

Once the pork is cooked, let it cool. After cooling, move the pork to a grill. Over hot coals, barbeque the pork face until it develops browning and a little bit of charring (the oil dripping on the coals will cause flames to appear that will help in charring and will give a smokey taste effect-don’t panic).

Ingredients: pork maskara ate manuk (chicken liver) sibuyas (onions) larang anis (chili) calamunding (calamansi)

Be mindful not to burn it too much. Chop the pork face into your desired sisig size. Add the chopped onions. Add the calamansi and vinegar. Salt and pepper to taste. Add chillies.

Serve on a sizzling plate.

My step by step in the process starts with cleaning the pork face and rubbing it with baking soda. This tenderizes the meat and reduces the gamey taste.

Thoroughly rinse the pork face. Afterwards, boil the washed pork face in water for an hour. Add lemongrass and soy sauce into the boil.

While waiting for the pork to soften, Fry the chicken liver and mash it until it creates a spreadlike consistency. Dice the onions into about â…› of an inch cubes.

50

I am a graduate of the University of Santo Tomos Faculty of Medicine and Surgery (2005). I was second to the last in my class. During my time, I was an “urban legend” in UST, having been conferred the grade of “benemeritus” on my revalida from the tribunal headed by Dean Tan-Alora. I was the only student among the top ten to receive this honor. In my spare time, I liked playing basketball, airsoft and enjoyed taking long walks along the beach watching the sunset and the waves

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Lenggua Kapampangan 52

“I was married in the ‘80s to my late wife, Ma Divinagracia. During our honeymoon, we spent a lot of time eating with our friends and relatives, especially when a lenggua was served in the buffet. This was such a popular dish during the celebration that I was left with almost nothing! One of the people partying was my cousin, Manong Geri Domingo, who was a Pangasinense, I found out that he was the one who brought the lenggua, but he underestimated the number of people who wanted to taste it.

A Kapampangan by heart, he knew very well how to cook “lenggua in white mushroom sauce con setas y champignon’’ dish. It is from him that I got the recipe. “

Dr. Rein S. GRAN

SAN FERNANDO

53

Lenggua Kapampangan

PAN

3-5

DIFFICULT

6 HR 30 MIN

SautĂŠ the sibuyas in a large, heated casserole over a low flame using the olive oil, until they are transparent. Add the dilang baka, the cream of mushroom soup, around 2 cups of water, and bring them to a slight simmer. As it simmers, pour in the rum and bawang. Boil them in very low flame, occasionally stirring to prevent burning the ingredients at the bottom of the casserole. Cook until the dilang baka are perfectly tender. This will take about half a day to accomplish. You may add some water to prevent thickening of the sauce.

Parsley can be sliced finely and added in the sauce during the last 30 mins of boiling.

dilang baka (ox tongues, large) a can of cream of mushroom soup a small can of all purpose cream a cup dry light rum carrots fresh young yellow corn kernels fresh button mushrooms parsley olive oil laya (ginger) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt) pamintang durug (white pepper)

Once done, remove the dilang baka and all the solid particles from the sauce. Further trim away all the unnecessary parts of the dilang baka. Cut the dilang baka into about 1/2 cms thick slices for serving.

In a pot on top of a medium flame, boil the well-washed dilang baka and the laya at the same time. Let the meat boil for 30 minutes or more. You can determine the doneness of the meat by pinching an edge so tha, when your nails cut through, it’s time to remove it from the pot. “ You need to drain and peel away the white mucosal film and other unnecessary parts of the dilang baka. Set the softened dilang baka aside.

54

The remaining sauce in the casserole will now be thickened using cream, and seasoned with some asin and pamintang durug. Heat a small amount of butter and some olive oil in a pan and cook the sliced carrots, young corn or button mushrooms for the vegetable garnish. Season with paminta and paminta to taste.

Pour the sauce mixture on the arranged slices of dilang baka on a platter, with the vegetables as garnish. This dish can be served with fried patatas (baby potatoes skinned, or mashed potatoes) , or plain white or brown rice.

I suffered from being overweight in the past. But after having some health issues I realized how important health is in our lives. One of my mantras in eating and enjoying food is that you let your food be your medicine. Aside from being a doctor and family man, one of my passions is to be a chef for my family and friends. I always enjoy explaining how everyone should eat healthy food, with an emphasis on living a healthy lifestyle.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Mechadung Baka 56

I usually call this Beef Mechado with Potato Gratin. However, in Kapampangan, it’s Mechadung Baka. My mother, whom I call Mama (“Mommy Rose” for everyone else), was the one who taught me how to cook this dish. I have known the dish for many years, but it was only three years ago that I got hooked on cooking this for my family, especially since my husband Allen was asking for it several times. What I love about cooking is that since it is for my family, I am so dedicated that I chop the onion myself, even though it makes me cry. I still do it for love.

Dr.Maria Roselle

C. MALLARI

MASANTOL

57

Mechadung Baka

POT

3-5

DIFFICULT

5 HR 30 MIN

the tomatoes will serve as the liquid that will tenderize the meat, so do not dilute the mixture too much.. Some laman baka (sirloin) is harder to tenderize and thus needs plenty of time to boil in the juice released by the tomatoes, combined with the other ingredients.

Laman baka (sirloin beef) patatas (potatoes) sibuyas (onions) kamatis (tomatoes) toyo (soy sauce) bulung laurel (bay leaves) lara (peppers)

In cooking this dish, keep in mind that this can only be successful if you hold on to the philosophy of slow cooking. This dish is not complicated when it comes to its ingredients, as it only has a few.

One major factor is the laman baka (sirloin) which should look lean and only have some marbling.

Put the meat in a pot. Add the kamatis, sibuyas, toyu, lara, laurel and a little water.

After adding all the ingredients, just before lighting the flame, mix everything together thoroughly. Once you see the laman baka (sirloin) get stained by the toyu, cover the pot and heat it over a high flame. Watch closely so that when it reaches the boiling point, open the cover and mix all the ingredients again. After doing this, reduce the stove to a small flame and leave it to start the slow cooking. This entails 2 to 4 hours of boiling and checking, until the ingredients turn into a thick sauce.

Pay attention to the interior surface of the pot, as it may roast the part of the laman baka that is touching it if not consistently rotated and twisted every now and then.

Once the sauce has almost entirely evaporated, transfer the cooked Beef Mechadu to a clean plate and slice it thinly. Add potato gratin to make it look enticing.

Note that if you want to make this dish really tasty, include a lot of tomatoes. The juice from

58

How to describe Selle? Selle is a doctor. Selle is a certified Family Physician. Selle is a registered nutritionist-dietitian. Selle is a devoted Catholic. Selle has been an active choir member for more than 20 years. Selle can sing soprano and alto but not at the same time. Selle can play the guitar and the recorder (a flute-like instrument). All of this describes a superficial Selle. If you ask the people around her, the people that matter most, including her nephew Arjay Solamo, Selle is the greatest cook ever. Selle is also a very good painter according to her niece, Angelica Rose Castro. Selle is very generous according to her brother, Ritchie Castro. Selle is supportive according to her younger sister, Reena Castro. Selle is a good listener according to her older sister, Rowena Solamo. Selle is a loving daughter according to her mother, Rose Castro.

Selle is talented according to her husband, Allen Mallari. Selle is all of these because describing Selle is to see her in the eyes of the people around her.

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Callos Kapampangan 60

Unlike the other ingredients in this book that were translated in English from the Kapampangan words, I chose to write them according to industry names to make it easier for people to understand and find the ingredients in the supermarket.

My uncle Jose G. Baltazar of Lubao, Pampanga was the one who actually taught me how to cook the callos. This has become my specialty.

Cooking is a very natual habit that is part of my daily routine. Despite my busy schedule as a medical doctor, I would still choose to cook my own food instead of buying from fastfood or trying the popular dining restaurants in Pampanga.

Dr. Eric B. BARTOLO

LUBAO

61

Callos Kapampangan

POT

3-5

DIFFICULT

5 HR 30 MIN

ox tripe. This time, set it to a slow boil. Add the laurel, pamintang buu and iodized salt to the pot and boil until the tripe becomes tenderized. ox tripe tomato sauce green pitted olives chorizo Vienna sausage chickpeas red and green bell peppers carrots sibuyas (onions) awang (garlic) asin (salt) pamintang durug (white pepper) grated cheese

SautĂŠ the bawang and sibuyas in olive oil. This is crucial, as olive oil produces a taste exclusive to the taste of a standard callos. While over a medium flame, add the pitted green peas, chorizo and the ox tripe, which by this time should have finished the boiling procedure.

Add the red wine, Vienna sausage, chickpeas, red and green pepper, and carrots. Pour in the special tomato sauce and mix it gently with the rest of the ingredients in the pot. Add the grated cheese when you see the thick sauce boiling. Reduce the heat and let it simmer until it’s cooked.

In cooking the callos, the first step in the process is to boil the ox tripe for a few minutes until the residues of impurities float to the surface. Discard this unwanted waste and drain the blanched ox tripe to be reboiled. In a pot, add water and the

62

Take note that before you add the ox tripe, it should have achieved the perfect doneness.

Check to see that it is easy to bite, proving that it is done. Do not overcook, as the ingredients may melt because most of them are soft in nature.

At a young age I wanted to be a musician but I became a physician instead. With a cultured passion for the arts, I’m also focused on whatever I do, especially for my patients’ well being. Even though my profession is a world apart from the original passion I dreamed of, I still manage to do these things by attending events and performing in front of many people.

Aside from that, I also consider cooking as an art, so I invested a lot of my time in the kitchen experimenting with different types of cuisines.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Kilayin Kapampangan 64

I must admit that even though I have been familiar with this dish since time immemorial, this is my first time cooking it. Use a large pot for this dish.

Some chefs prefer to fry or didikdikan (pulverize) the liver to intensify the taste. Others add more bawang for a better taste. It depends on your preference.

When you sautĂŠ, do so until the sibuyas become translucent and sweet. Red onions are harder to cook, but better tasting. If you want to have a thicker sauce, use the fat from pork kasim. Meat that is brought from the wet market from a freshly killed pig is better.

Dr. Rodolfo Eduardo B. PACHECO

STA. ANA

65

Kilayin Kapampangan

PAN

5-7

AVERAGE

4 HOURS

larang pamaksi if you want the final dish to be spicy.

Add the laurel. To do a quick version, blanche all the meat together while separately sautĂŠing the bawang, sibuyas and larang anis or larang pamaksi, patis, and aslam. Add some water or soup stock from boiling the meat. Let the mixtures of sautĂŠed spices and the meat boil and simmer until almost dry.

laman/liempo babi (Kasim) ate babi (pork liver) pusung babi (pork heart) pork pancreas pork ate (liver) pork baga (lungs) aslam (vinegar) patis (fish sauce) laurel (bay leaf) larang pamaksi (green chili) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt) pamintang durug (white pepper)

I prefer the longer method. After cleaning the meat group, boil these in salt and water and watch for a discoloration and floating bubbles. Remove the bubbles. Put some of the baga and the pusu in a bowl to marinate in aslam, asin, pamintang buu and laurel for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Ideally, this would be overnight. Do the same for the pork Kasim and pancreas together, with the pork liver separately.

After marinating, repeat the process of sautĂŠing mentioned above.. Add the liver last to the mixture, as it may absorb the sauce and overall taste of the dish. When added, press the liver firmly flat to the bottom of the pot to extract the savor. Do not stir.

Let it boil, then simmer for 30 minutes.

Cut the pusung babi, ate, laman/ liempo, lape-lape and baga into small pieces and put them in the pot.. Also cut small pieces of bawang, sibuyas and larang anis or

66

Since this dish has aslam, which is a very strong ingredient, it is better to let it cool down before serving so the fresh sour taste would be neutralized.

I am mild mannered, like Superman. I love gadgets, like Batman.

I get mad, like the Hulk, but I am dashing, like Thor. A lot of people tell me that I am cute, maybe because of my attitude, as I always look at things positively. I am the type of person that still loves anime and attends cosplays. I go to gadget expos just to see the latest features of the new iPhone, and browse websites on photography, as I am a hobbyist photographer. In my spare time, I am a chef and while cooking, I think of myself as a contestant in a cooking competition because I enjoy the idea of cutting onions and igniting the pan for fun.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Adobung Maputi 68

I started cooking this when I was in college. It was taught by my mother, who is a wonderful cook. Unlike conventional cooking of adobo, which is usually done by boiling the meat, what I like about this version is that after boiling it in a pot, the meat will be transferred to a pan for sautĂŠing.

This makes the meat more firm and textured, as it is fried with sibuyas and bawang.

Dr. Jae Jegvinne DE GUZMAN

69

SAN FERNANDO

Adobung Maputi

PAN

5-7

EASY

2 HOURS

Combine all the ingredients in a big pot, except for the cooking oil, half of the chopped onions, and half of the minced garlic (for the sautĂŠ).

When the pata is tender, remove it from the sauce and separate the meat from the bone.

Heat up a pot and add the remaining onions and garlic. Next, add the meat and sautĂŠ for about 5 minutes, then add in the sauce from the original pot. Finally, let it simmer for another 10 minutes, to allow the sauce to thicken.

Serve with steaming hot rice and rock salt with crushed chili as a dip.

pata na ning babi (pork leg) aslam (cane sugar) laurel (bay leaves) oregano sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt) pamintang durug (white pepper) cooking oil

I think the dish is so easy to make anyone can cook it. It has always drawn everyone to our family dining table. The smell of it alone, while cooking, excites everyone and makes everyone’s mouth water while impatiently waiting for the dish to finish.

70

I was born in Angeles City and finished medicine at St. Luke’s College of Medicine in Manila. I am now an orthopedic surgeon. I have always loved cooking and all my knowledge in the kitchen is wisdom that I learned from my mother whenever she cooked our meals. I feel that cooking takes my mind away from work and all the other stress of our daily grind. I also feel that it’s my way of showing how much I care about my loved ones.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Vianda ning Arayat 72

Vianda is a common household name that describes a causal dish in Arayat and Magalang, Pampanga. It’s comfort food, as it’s something that we can cook anytime, given the resource of manuk that is all around the farmland, especially near the slope of the mountain. I remember that during my childhood years, the chickens we used were native chickens, which tasted so great since they were bred to eat only the natural feed in our backyard.

Dr. Alice T. BUAN

ARAYAT

73

Suam Mais Suam Mais

PAN

5-7

EASY

1 HR 30 MiN

Cooking this dish is a simple process. Boil the breast with salt. When it is cooked, remove the meat and cut it into pieces. and set aside the stock, to be used as liquid for soaking the cabbage for tenderizing. SautĂŠ the ingredients, starting with the bawang, sibuyas and green chili. When they are ready, add the chicken and stir. Pour the soy sauce directly into the chopped chicken so it will absorb the soy sauce.

pichu (chicken breast) repolyu (cabbage) larang pamaksi (green chili) larang mamparas (chili) toyu ( soy sauce) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt)

Make no mistake, this vianda is a totally different dish than chopsuey, or even the Portuguese version of vianda . The Arayat Vianda relies on chicken stock taken from the boiled chicken breast. In a barrio setting, when you cook chicken, you cannot cook a dish where all parts are legs or thighs. You can only rely on a whole chicken, slaughtered that very day. The chicken is maximized, so we make good use of every part.

74

When all ingredients have started to come together to create a sauce from the chicken’s own oil, pour in the sliced cabbage. On the other hand, if you prefer, the cabbage can be fried first, to make it crunchy. When the chicken and it’s mixture of ingredients are well done, sprinkle on the minced chili and pour in the cabbage. Mix thoroughly and turn off the heat.

Close the lid to keep things hot for serving.

During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” (just rhyming the words).I was usually first in line during assembly for Monday flag ceremony. ceremony.. I’ll I’ll let let you you figure figure out out why. why.

My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others in court But, as it turned out, I became a doctor. It was the same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect others from illness.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Tidtad Pusung Saging 76

This is quite different from the conventional Tidtad we are accustomed to, as this has the healthy addition of pusung saging. I learned this recipe from my mother and I grew up liking it because it looks like a combination of two dishes , the lagat pusu and tidtad.

Dr. Alma M. MACASPAC

77

SAN LUIS

Tidtad Pusung Saging Suam Mais

POT

6-8

DIFFICULT

2 HR 30 MiN

A pot is ideal for this dish, as it needs a larger container since this is basically a soup-based dish. Just as with many other dishes, the process starts with sautéing the bawang, sibuyas, kamatis and laman babi in a pot. The sizes and shapes of the ingredient pieces depend on your preference.

laman babi (kasim) pusung saging (banana blossom) dayang babi (pig’s blood) kamatis (tomatoes) toyo (soy sauce) aslam (vinegar) larang pamaksi (green chili) larang pamaksi (green chili) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic)

When the laman babi appears firm and shiny, add the toyu. Mix it very well with the laman babi, while maintaining medium heat. When the toyu has stained the laman babi, add the pusung saging and mix thoroughly. Add the aslam and pamintang durug evenly over the mixture and let it boil for several minutes. Don’t move anything in the pot while the aslam is boiling, as it will create a chemical reaction.

Let the aslam boil and its strong smell will eventually disappear,

To prepare this dish, go to the wet market as early as possible in order to get the freshest pig’s blood from a recently slaughtered pig. Fresh blood means pure liquid with no hardening. On the other hand, any type of pusung saging will do, but a younger type is better as it is softer and crunchier.

As the mixture boils and the fluid starts to melt all the ingredients, pour in the dayang babi carefully and mix everything thoroughly. Add some salt to taste. Feel the laman babi to check if it has tenderized. Add the green chili.

This is better served after it has cooled down for several minutes.

78

During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” (just rhyming the words).I was usually first in line during When I was kid theyflag used to call meI’ll “ negra” of why. my assembly foraMonday ceremony.. let youbecause figure out dark complexion.

But with the adventand of skin whitening My ambition was to benow, a lawyer, to defend protect others soap, lotion & glutathione my skin is more fair & glowing. in court But, as it turned out, I became a doctor. It was the Thanks to Glutathione!!!

They nowway, call to medefend “ Almaand Morena.” same intention, but in a different protect others from illness.

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Miki Babi ampo Miki Manuk

Kalderetang Bibi 80

This dish was specially prepared by my father usually only once a year, on the occasion of our Barangay Fiesta. Of course learning to cook the dish started with helping out with the cooking process itself.

It begins with actually catching the duck which until that time was probably just minding its own business. But when it’s time to shine comes, it will be the star of the fiesta table. Needless to say, it takes skill not just to catch the feisty critter, but to dress the duck as well.

Dr. Allen MALLARI

MACABEBE

81

Kalderetang Bibi Suam Mais

POT

6-8

DIFFICULT

5 HR 30 MiN

tasty as the younger versions!

After which the ingredients, prepared by little helper cooks of the family, the kitchen comes alive. All of this is done with makeshift stoves using large adobe bricks which are usually kept just for the occasion. There is a long hours of burning wooden logs as it usually takes time to make the meat tender specially if what was caught was an older bird.

live bibi (young duck) tomato sauce pineapple juice garbanzos (chickpeas) larang suklati (red bell pepper) laya (ginger) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt) pamintang durug (white pepper) cooking oil asin (salt) pamintang durug (white pepper)

The cooking process begins with boiling the meat with laya (ginger) and pineapple juice to remove the gamey taste. This takes patience and while doing so, the other ingredients are prepared. Once cooked, the meat is set aside.

In another pan, saute bawang (garlic) and sibuyas (onions). Add larang suklati (red bell pepper), carrots and chickpeas (garbanzos) and the duck meat. Add tomato sauce, salt and pamintang durug (white pepper) to taste.

Simmer and let cook until tender. Best served with warm rice or on its own with a cold bottle of beer!

In cooking the Kalderetang Bibi, a younger duck has the ideal meat that can be cooked in short period of time. And sometimes, they are not as

82

As a child todays, dream being an astronaut, butKamatis” fate During myI used school myoffriends called me “Alice and law ofthe gravity havewas kept both my on the ground. (justthe rhyming words).I usually firstfeet in line during When notfor busy with doing doctor stuff, can befigure foundout why. assembly Monday flag ceremony..

I’ll Ilet you engaging with other like-minded on My ambition was to be a lawyer, toindividuals, defend andconversing protect others topics ranging comic books, mythological in court But, asfrom it turned out, I became a doctor.creatures, It was the health and wellness, to everything in between.

Currently, I same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect am making others from travel illness.plans for where my loving wife and I will go next, and other adventures together, while figuring out ways to finance them. Once and always, I will be a dreamer

83

4

MIKI NASI

MENU FOR TODAY Barali ning Apalit Biringi/ Birngi Pistu Kapampangan Paella Valenciana Burung Asan/ Tagilo

84

It may look unpleasant to some but buru or tagilo is a food that is uniquely identified as purely Kapampangan.

Not everybody loves this fermented rice because of its appearance that would be turned down by a squeamish and smell that may be unpleasant to an untrained nose. But appreciating buru needs a love affair. Once you get hooked to it, it’s a lifetime fetish of a dish that never breaks your heart in combination with balasenas, okra and mustasa. As a form or preservation, the Kapampangans were able to create a variety of dish that extends the life of cooked rice and more this into a delectable biringi, paella, suman and even the scavenge Fiesta leftover of the people of Apalit called barali.

85

CHAPTER 4 Miki Nasi

Barali ning Apalit 86

My mother, Mrs. Catalina Lugue Yap, a native of Apalit, also known as Nene, born on November 25, 1923, was the one who taught me this dish in 1999, when she was 76 and I was 32. Customarily, she cooked it the day after the Apalit town fiesta. She cooked this dish until she reached her nineties.

The essence of its preparation is the ingenious way the Apalitenos save leftover dishes and create new ones through the process of fermentation.

This is a balanced, healthy dish that can last for days without refrigeration, and weeks when in the refrigerator.

Careful, sanitary preparation is a must.

Leftover dishes from the fiesta such as adobo, asado, and menudo in equal parts of 2 cups each (with sauce) is mixed with 1 kg of left over cooked rice (marimlang nasi).

Dr. Catherine Jane Y. CAYLAO

87

APALIT

Barali ning Apalit Suam Mais

PAN

8-10

DIFFICULT

4 HOURS

After this procedure, it is kept in the refrigerator between 4 to 7 degrees Centigrade for another two days. leftover dishes such as asadung matwa, adobu, menudo and kaldereta ampalaya (bitter melon) balasenas (eggplant) mustasa (mustard) okra tilapia, or bangus olive oil

Finally, in a large pot, sautĂŠ 5 cloves of pressed and chopped bawang in Âź cup of olive oil.

Add 1 chopped large red sibuyas. Pour the rice mixture into the pot and cook over medium heat until the natural oils from the dishes separate. Stir frequently, to prevent the rice from burning and sticking to the pan, This should be done for a maximum of 15 minutes.

Let it cool and serve on the side with fresh mustasa, boiled balasenas, okra, apalya and any fried fish available, such as itu, tilapia or bangus.

With clean bare hands, mix the leftovers together.

Add 1 tbsp asin (more if you want it to last longer).

The mixture is tightly covered and set aside at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, for from 24 to 48 hours, depending on your preference for the degree of sourness brought about by fermentation of the rice.

88

The combination of sour and umami flavor of barali is a hit with its minty, bitter flavor of mustasa and apalya. Unlike the balobalo (shrimp), or burung asan, barali gives you the distinct flavor of chunky beef, pork and chicken meat. A complete meal in itself!

IDuring am married to Masantoleno, Dr Ken Caylao. learned to my school days, my friends called meI“Alice Kamatis” appreciate thisthe town’s specialty foods, such asline kubang bibi, (just rhyming words).I was usually first in during among others.

I also learned the heritage cuisine of the town, assembly for Monday flag ceremony..

I’ll let you figure out why. the native version of rice pudding, through his aunt, Darang My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others Mely.

HerBut, version the renowned Pudding ning Masantol. in court as itis turned out, I became a doctor.

It was the I value by balancing of God, family and myand employees same life intention, but in alove different way, to defend protect in Apalit Doctors Hospital.

For me, loyalty and commitment others from illness. are very important.

89

CHAPTER 4 Miki Nasi

Biringi (birngi) 90

This is one of my most loved foods. I remember that after my wedding in 2017, I asked my wife about the recipe and process of cooking biringi. She learned from her mother the way of cooking it, as she came from a family of great cooks. The best thing about this dish is that, once you get the finest ingredients fresh from the market, you will never go wrong in achieving the perfect taste. I believe if you get fresh ingredients and the correct texture of the malagkit rice, it will truly satisfy your taste buds.

Dr. Jonathan M. PERALTA

91

BACOLOR

Biringi (birngi) Suam Mais

PAN

6-8

DIFFICULT

4 HR 30 MiN

flame, stirring it occasionally until it boils..

Cooking malagkit a lakatan is almost the same as cooking ordinary rice. It is done cooking when the liquid has cooked away, leaving only the soft glutinous rice. When the malagkit a lakatan is cooked, squeeze grated turmeric, to extract the juice, and pour this juice all over the malagkit a lakatad, while slowly stirring the mixture. .Season with salt and pepper to taste.

pichu (Sliced, cooked chicken breast, or Chicken wings malagkit a lakatan (glutinous rice) gatang ngungut (coconut milk) ebun laga (hard boiled eggs) larang suklati (red green bell pepper strips) ange (turmeric) pasas (raisins) asin (salt) bulung saging (banana leaves)

Add the cooked, cut up pieces of chicken and stir them into the rice until it turns brown. Cover the malagkit a lakatan with bulung saging, then cover the pot and continue to cook over a very low flame until the rice is fully cooked and all of the liquid has been absorbed. This is now called biringi, Garnish with raw red and green bell peppers, raw carrots, and hard boiled eggs.

The first thing in cooking this dish is to wash the malagkit rice. Drain the rice and set it aside for a couple of minutes. In a pot, line a layer of bulung saging around the bottom, then pour the drained malagkit a lakatan on top. Add the gatang ngungut and simmer this mixture over a medium

92

Serve it hot.

Hi, I’m Johnathan.

I enjoy going to nightclubs, partying all During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” night and participating in dances.

Justfirst kidding!

I’m not fond of (just rhyming the words).I was usually in line during any of those More I’m simple guy assembly forthings.

Monday flag seriously, ceremony..

I’lljust let a you figure outthat why. is easy to be with.

I am a good listener and can give my time My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others to anyone who a helping hand. I am a caring person in court But, as needs it turned out, I became a doctor.

It was the for everyone, and for myinfamily.

To top it all I loveand to cook! same intention, but a different way, to off, defend protect others from illness.

93

CHAPTER 4 Miki Nasi

Pistu Kapampangan 94

Pistu is basically Spanish in origin.

It originated from the autonomous region of La Mancha, in the region of Murcia. It is more commonly known as Pisto Manchego and is a far cry from the traditional Pistu known in Pampanga. The Spanish ingredients are usually tomatoes, onions, eggplants, courgettes, green and red peppers, olive oil and sometimes, eggs.

In Pampanga, Pistu is usually served on important occasions like an observation of a 40th Day of the departed, a day before the advent of Christmas or the Saturday (Sabado De Gloria) after Holy Week. It’s usually a morning food, just before everyone starts their day.

Dr. Leticia C. YAP

ANGELES

95

Pistu Kapampangan Suam Mais

PAN

6-8

EASY

1 HR 30 MiN

stirring constantly. Then add the larang suklati, both the green and red peppers. Next, add the finely cut tomatoes while thoroughly stirring the mixture. Next, add the Vienna sausage and chorizo de Bilbao.

For the final procedure, beat 20 eggs. After they are well beaten, gradually add them to the pistu mixture, stirring constantly until you can no longer see the eggs. Season with salt and ground pepper.

giniling a laman babi (lean ground pork) Vienna sausage chorizo de Bilbao ebun ( eggs as in many eggs) larang suklati (green and red bell pepper) carrots kamates green peas pamintang buu (ground pepper) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt)

To serve this, I add some surplus bread or pan bread that are sometimes left unwanted and almost at the expiration date. These are called Paradadas. I put either corned beef or sardines on slices of bread, cover them with egg, and fry them. The Pistu and this bread make a great breakfast combo.

Maybe the pistu that I do is a mestizo type. Start with sautĂŠing 1 kg of giniling a laman a babi with bawang and sibuyas. Add julienne cut carrots,

96

During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” I(just am a true blooded Marinduquena, but Capampangan rhyming the words).I was usually first in line duringby heart.

I amfor the best example of a natural beauty, with cooking assembly Monday flag ceremony..

I’ll let you figure out why. expertise developed over the years.

My recipes sprinkled My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and are protect others with loveBut, for authentic native food. That makes in court as it turned out, Pampango I became a doctor.

It was the it a sure to prove theinpotential of way, an aspiring chef. samewin intention, but a different to defend and protect others from illness.

97

CHAPTER 4 Miki Nasi

Paella Valenciana 98

Kapampangans can make delectable dishes from seemingly inedible things.

Our character defines our culture. And our culture lies in our cuisine.

My grandmother used to cook this during pyestang balen (town fiesta).

The recipe was handed down for generations by oral tradition. This elaborate dish was never served after my grandmother died, as it was too tedious to prepare. My wife and I somehow got the idea to revive the recipe after our trip to Barcelona, Spain. I was surprised that my grandmother’s recipe was in so many ways similar to the recipe from Spain!

Dr. Gil Francis L. PELAGIO

GUAGUA

99

Paella Valenciana Suam Mais

PAN

6-8

DIFFICULT

3 HR 30 MiN

Likewise, the origin of your saffron determines the intensity of the flavor of your paella. We’ve tried saffron from the Middle East and India, but we think the saffron from Spain truly brings out the best taste.

abias saffron pusit paro taung chorizo tomato paste larang suklati green peas ebun lemon sibuyas

In a paella pan over a medium-high flame, heat olive oil and sear the pusit and the paro..

In a separate pot, boil the taung and season it with salt. After searing the pusit and the paro, transfer them to a plate and set aside. Now, sear the chorizo and chopped sibuyas, stirring until cooked. Add 2-3 tbsps of tomato paste while stirring.

Add 2 cups of pre-cooked nasi onto the paella pan. Mix it until well combined. Add 2 cups of water and a pinch of saffron. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover, and let it simmer until the rice is cooked for about 10-15mins. Top with seafood and cover. Garnish with larang suklati, green peas, ligang ebun and lemon.

We started preparing it again in 2017. It employs the method of pre-cooking the rice, prior to stirring it in with the other ingredients. We use chicken stock to boil the rice, as this adds a richer flavor.

100

There you have it. Paella Valenciana!

I used to watch my Lola Telang (my grandmother) and Dang Onya (our cook) prepare tinolang tugak (rice field frog me broth) fromKamatis” scratch During my school days, my friends called “Alice when I was a kid.

They would laboriously clean live frogs, skinning (just rhyming the words).I was usually first in line during them using powdered charcoal,flag to simmering them a sumptuous broth. assembly for Monday ceremony..

I’ll into let you figure out why.

At such a young age I was exposed to what would later awaken me to My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others the famed Kapampangan culinary arts.

in court But, as it turned out, I became a doctor. It was the same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect Fast forward that to my biology course back in college. My classmates others from illness. and I would remove the spines of live frogs and later dissect them for our dreaded comparative anatomy classes. That was not as fun as watching my grandma and our cook prepare frogs for cooking!

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CHAPTER 4 Miki Nasi

Burung Asan/ Tagilo 102

Tagilo or Burung Asan, two names that describe that same fermented rice known to be one of the most famous Kapampangan dishes that makes other people cringe. But for the native Kapampangans, it’s a sought after dish which is a living testament of a Kapampangan identity.

I ‘ve been eating tagilo since time remembers. I first encountered this when I was a child. I never liked the smell. I would always cringe at the idea that it was rotting rice and quite squeamish when I imagine how I will eat it. But it’s true that food appreciation comes with maturity. I was in college when I started to see tagilo as a very satisfying dish and would even go to palengki by myself to buy the new arrivals of tagilo from Candaba.

Dr.Maria Roselle

C. MALLARI

CANDABA

103

Burung Asan/ Tagilo

PAN

5-7

EASY

buru (fermented rice with shrimp/mudfish) kamatis (tomatoes) sibuyas (onions) laya (ginger) bawang (garlic)

Tagilo in Candaba is the best, since cooks in that town easily produce it because of the abundant mudfish supply. The tagilo in Candaba is made up of mudfish and since they have these all season, they actually make this fermented rice and mudfish regularly.

Tagilo is basically a dip dish. The way to cook this is something I learned from my mom but I learned to develop my own method in preparing the dish that suits my taste. In preparing this, I usually buy about 500 grams of raw buru in

1 HOUR

plastic bags. This is good enough to serve around 5 people. It’s very important to prepare the laya and bawang and these have to be as many in quantity as the more, the better the taste. In a pan, laya and bawang should be pounded and pulverized and should be cooked in complete toast. After this, the tomatoes, around just 4 of these at medium size should be poured next to the pan. You need to press the tomatoes onto the surface of the pan until the membrane of the tomatoes get thin. Then, you add the sibuyas .

Sibuyas should not be overcooked and they need to get separated from each of its layers before you drop the tagilo. Remember that you should squeeze out the tagilo in plastics first in a bowl to keep you safe from the plastics getting burned.

Let it simmer on a small flame for 10 minutes while thoroughly mixing it with the ladle until the yellowish and reddish color of the oil go to the surface. Once this happens, put off the flame and let it cool down.

This can be served as is with a fried tilapia or lechon kawali. But it will be more enjoyable if you add friend balasenas (eggplants), okra, mustasa and talbus kamuti to complete the ensemble.

104

How to describe Selle? Selle is a doctor. Selle is a certified Family Physician. Selle is a registered nutritionist-dietitian. Selle is a devoted Catholic. Selle has been an active choir member for more than 20 years. Selle can sing soprano and alto but not at the same time. Selle can play the guitar and the recorder (a flute-like instrument). All of this describes a superficial Selle. If you ask the people around her, the people that matter most, including her nephew Arjay Solamo, Selle is the greatest cook ever. Selle is also a very good painter according to her niece, Angelica Rose Castro. Selle is very generous according to her brother, Ritchie Castro. Selle is supportive according to her younger sister, Reena Castro. Selle is a good listener according to her older sister, Rowena Solamo. Selle is a loving daughter according to her mother, Rose Castro.

Selle is talented according to her husband, Allen Mallari. Selle is all of these because describing Selle is to see her in the eyes of the people around her.

105

5

PAG

MAYUMU

PAG MININDAL

MENU FOR TODAY Tibuk-Tibuk Pancit Opu Ginilu ampo Patulbad Patcu Ning Guagua Rice Pudding

106

The sweet delights of the Kapampangan plate serve both as a casual eating experience and as a food that celebrates important events related to religion or family affairs. In fact, some of these earned a national reputation like the tibuk-tibuk, called maja blanca by people outside the region, became a sought-after sweet that became synonymous with the Pampanga. The refresher drink, ginilu, as a precursor to those now-famous milkshake has been quenching the thirst of the Kapampangan during summer since time immemorial still remains intact to its religious connections. But it’s always possible that a day will come , just like the tibok-tibok or sampelut, that has the national charisma, it is only a matter of time when ginilu replaces the popularity of milk teas.

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Tibuk-Tibuk 108

The name of the carabao milk pudding called Tibok-tibok is derived from the word ‘’tibok’’ which is the translation in Tagalog of the word ‘’pulse,’’ or ‘’beat,’’ as in heart beat. Perhaps it is the small sound of the pops coming from the pudding while being cooked that inspired the name. The pudding starts to pulse as the bubbles try to break the surface as it cooks. In my teenage years my mom taught me how to prepare this dessert.

Kapampangans are very particular when it comes to food. Even the smallest thing makes a big difference.

What makes this tibuk-tibuk special is your willingness to go the extra mile just to find some gatas damulag, which is not easily available in the market.

Dr. Maria Rosario P. GAMBOA

ANGELES

109

Tibuk-Tibuk Suam Mais

PAN

6-8

EASY

3 HR 30 MiN

correct consistency, transfer the pudding to a flat pan that has been greased or oiled,to avoid having the pudding stick to the surface. Let the pudding cool down so it will set nicely. You need to examine the pudding, as it may still contain some air bubbles. Tap the top surface of the pudding to let them come out. Let the pudding cool, then refrigerate it.

1 liter of gatas damulag (carabao milk) granulated sugar cornstarch 2 gatang ngungut (coconut milk) dalayap (lime fruit)

Dalayap can also be added, by grating the skin of the fruit and distributing it evenly on top of the pudding.

To start with, combine the granulated sugar, cornstarch and gatas damulag and mix until the texture of the liquid becomes smooth. Put the remaining milk in a pot over a medium flame.

Simmer this for a few minutes, then add the liquid mixture you initially prepared, using a strainer to remove any lumps or solid particles.

This is a slow boil cooking process and you need to wait patiently until the liquid thickens and turns solid to become pudding. Once you achieve the

110

On the other hand, while waiting for the pudding to solidify, using a saucepan, pour in some pure gatang ngungut and let it simmer until it evaporates completely. This will leave the solid latik.

This is best eaten directly from the refrigerator, depending on your own preferences. Top this with the latik to make it more tasty.

IDuring am an my Obstetrician-Gynecologist. every child who school days, my friends Behind called me “Alice Kamatis” believes in himself is a parent believes first. fulfilled (just rhyming the words).I waswho usually first in lineIduring my dreamfor of Monday becoming a doctor because ofyou my figure parents, aswhy. assembly flag ceremony..

I’ll let out they never doubted myacapability the journey of myothers life.

My ambition was to be lawyer, toon defend and protect One dayBut, I would and Ipeople would ask me which in court as itsucceed turned out, became a doctor.

It was the university I attended.

I’d say, ‘’ It does not matter, because it’s same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect my parents made me what i am today. To my mom and others fromwho illness. dad in heaven, my forever love and endless thank you for the wonderful life that you gave me.

111

CHAPTER 5

Pag Mayumu at Pang Minindal

Pancit Opu 112

The dish is as simple as its name: pancit upo. It used to be cooked by my grandmother, and later on by my mother. In a way, it is reminiscent of simpler times, too, when neighbors would give you vegetables harvested from their gardens, that they wanted to share with you. Life was hard growing up, but in a way it taught us well to appreciate whatever it was that we had. It was also a creative way for the elders to get us kids to eat our vegetables.

Dr. Allen C. MALLARI

ANGELES

113

Pancit Opu Suam Mais

PAN

3-5

EASY

1 HR 30 MiN

chopped opu and the pancit bihon. Cover and allow to cook, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Remove from the fire and serve with sliced calamansi on the side.

paro (shrimp) opu (bottle gourd) pancit bihon kalamunding (calamansi) pamintang buu (ground pepper) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) asin (salt)

To prepare the dish, start by washing and shelling the shrimp. Save the heads, to be used later as a “secret ingredient.� Chop some onions and garlic.

Peel and slice the opu. Chop the shrimp heads very finely and set them aside. In a deep pan, add some oil and sautĂŠ the garlic and onions, adding the shrimp and the shrimp extract later. Add some water and simmer. Once it begins to boil, add the

114

As a child todays, dream being an astronaut, butKamatis” fate During myI used school myoffriends called me “Alice and law ofthe gravity havewas kept both my on the ground. (justthe rhyming words).I usually firstfeet in line during When notfor busy with doing doctor stuff, can befigure foundout why. assembly Monday flag ceremony..

I’ll Ilet you engaging with other like-minded on My ambition was to be a lawyer, toindividuals, defend andconversing protect others topics ranging comic books, mythological in court But, asfrom it turned out, I became a doctor.creatures, It was the health and wellness, to everything in between.

Currently, I same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect am making others from travel illness.plans for where my loving wife and I will go next, and other adventures together, while figuring out ways to finance them. Once and always, I will be a dreamer.

115

CHAPTER 5

Pag Mayumu at Pang Minindal

Ginilu ampo Patulbad 116

In the early days when the casamac were usually the people parading the streets of Pampanga as magdarame (flagellants), to observe the fast, they avoided eating any pork dish. Patulbad and ginilu are foods for the souls of the magdarame. The casamac started the flagellation rituals during the colonial period because they could not find any atonement for themselves that would equate the sufferings of Christ, other than to let themselves bleed. Their faith was sincere and their dedication was absolute, as they were scared of the feudal lords and feared that the land they cultivated would be taken away if they didn’t show their extreme devotion to the imposed Catholic religion.

Dr.Maria Roselle

C. MALLARI

CANDABA

117

Ginilu ampo Patulbad

PAN

8 - 10

AVERAGE

3 HOURS

eat to get some energy after a day of dripping blood. Ginilu and patulbad are the key food that would rescue them from hunger.

For the Patulbad galapung (glutinous rice) flour asukal (sugar) sesame seeds bulung saging (banana leaves) For the Ginilu gatang ngungut (coconut milk) gulaman asukal (sugar) dalayap (lime)

Since patulbad and ginilu are basically made out of rice (galapung) and coconut, it’s understandable that the ingredients are obtained from the harvest of these casamac. Eating pork was a cardinal sin during holy week and devotion to the Catholic faith was extreme. The people, however, especially the magdarame, needed to

Today, patulbad can be purchased from the wet market. If you cannot find some, prepare it by yourself by combining glutinous rice, flour and water, to create the batter. When well mixed, scoop some into your palm and mold it into a firm shape. Drop this into a pot of boiling water, where it will sink to the bottom. When it floats to the top , that determines that it’s done. You can drop a couple of these at a time, while putting the cooked ones on a tray covered with bulung saging. Top each of them with granulated sugar and ngungut a kinudkud.

In preparing the ginilu, boil water and pour in the gulaman. Add asukal to the gulaman and stir until it starts to thicken. Pour this to a flat tray. When it solidifies, cut in squares of whatever size you wish. Set aside. Pour the gatang ngungut to a container with the pure water from two coconuts and add asukal and water. The amounts depend on the number of glasses you want to serve and how sweet you prefer it to be. Pour in the cut gulaman pieces.

The Patulbad and Ginilu should be served at the same time, as they compliment each other.

118

I”m a pediatrician by day, and a frustrated chef by night. Being a full-blooded Kapampangan, I dabble, as a ‘pseudo-chef,’ in the resto I put up a few years back. My passion, aside from pediatrics, is cooking hearty meals for our family on weekends, crossfit, and uploading personal photos on social media.

119

CHAPTER 5

Pag Mayumu at Pang Minindal

Patcu ning Guagua 120

Dra Ma. Isabel Lagman-Calilung is fondly called Beng by family and friends. I was blessed to be raised by good, loving parents, who taught me how to live life to the fullest. A simple, happy mother of four good children.

I live a simple life, traveling with my family. I enjoy my work in Public Health too, because it fulfills my purpose in life. I still look young, but I have gained weight because I learned to count my blessings more than my problems.

That gives me a reason to smile and stay happy.

Dr. Beng Lagman CALILUNG

121

GUAGUA

Patcu ning Guagua Suam Mais

PAN

10-12

EASY

1 HR 30 MiN

This was especially important when the liquid batter was poured on a hot pan to create the thin pliable bread wrap. cassava powder all purpose flour evaporated milk asukal (sugar) ebun (eggs) ngungut (coconut meat) bulung saging (banana leaves)

In my case, I needed to be exact with the measurements, so I could repeat the process without making a mistake. In this type of food, use a flat pan to maximize the surface when spreading the liquid. Cassava powder is the special ingredient that forms what the patcu looks like. First, mix 1 cup cassava flour to 3 cups of flour and 1 can of evaporated milk. Into this mixture, add 3/4 cup of sugar, 5 beaten eggs and 2 cups of water. You can use any oil but vegetable oil is best. The oil should just “grease� the surface of the pan.

In appearance, patcu looks like a pancake, but it is rolled, like a burrito, with ngungut a kidkud inside, and is covered in a banana leaf. My ancestors would cook this without specific measurements, because of their long experience. They also assumed the top quantity of each ingredient, as that was essential to achieve perfect consistency.

122

Pour a thin amount of the liquid in a well heated pan creating a circular shape, just like a pancake, while maintaining the consistency of the thickness. When the crust has cooked, put some ngungut a kidkud in the middle and roll it up, then cover it with banana leaves to make it look more rural and grassroots.

IDuring am an my Obstetrician-Gynecologist. every child who school days, my friends Behind called me “Alice Kamatis” believes in himself is a parent believes first. fulfilled (just rhyming the words).I waswho usually first in lineIduring my dreamfor of Monday becoming a doctor because ofyou my figure parents, aswhy. assembly flag ceremony..

I’ll let out they never doubted myacapability the journey of myothers life.

My ambition was to be lawyer, toon defend and protect One dayBut, I would and Ipeople would ask me which in court as itsucceed turned out, became a doctor.

It was the university I attended.

I’d say, ‘’ It does not matter, because it’s same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect my parents made me what i am today. To my mom and others fromwho illness. dad in heaven, my forever love and endless thank you for the wonderful life that you gave me.

123

CHAPTER 5

Pag Mayumu at Pang Minindal

Rice Pudding 124

While rice pudding may not be a pure Kapampangan dish, it can be related to the biko rice cakes that we have been cooking here in Pampanga since time immemorial. The rice pudding in this recipe is a personal recipe for Mely’s Rice Pudding in Masantol, which is very famous in the province. It’s one of the delectable Kapampangan foods that is timeless and always available for any family of any social class.

Dr. Catherine Jane Y. CAYLAO

125

MASANTOL

Rice Pudding Suam Mais

PAN

8-10

DIFFICULT

5 HOURS

To make it, use brown sugar. 3 cups of sugar is enough to cover the top of the 1 kilo of rice pudding. Add 2 cups of water to the sugar and boil until the water evaporates and the sugar is caramelized. Set this aside as it will be poured on top of the rice pudding later.

malagkit rice ebun (eggs) evaporated milk condensed milk ginataang ngungut (coconut milk) asuka (brown sugar) butter cheese dalayap (lime)

In another pot, beat 22 to 25 eggs. This will be enough for 1 kilo of malagkit rice. Add about 3 cups each of the evaporated milk and the condensed milk. Add 1 to 2 cups of the gatang ngungut, 2 cups of asuka, 1 pack of butter and 1 pack of cheese. Mix these well, to create a thick liquid. Mix this thick liquid into the mashed malagkit rice until everything is well combined.

The first process is to boil the malagkit rice, just like conventional rice. After it’s done, let it cool down. Mash this until it achieves a soft, malleable consistency, then set it aside.

The kiping is the hardened caramel on top of the rice pudding that makes it more enticing.

126

Cook this over a low fire until it boils, then pour it into a large container for serving. We usually use what they call in Kapampangan, lianera.

Pour the caramel kiping on top of the pudding and put the lianera in the oven for a few minutes to harden the caramel.

IDuring am married to Masantoleno, Dr Ken Caylao. learned to my school days, my friends called meI“Alice Kamatis” appreciate thisthe town’s specialty foods, such asline kubang bibi, (just rhyming words).I was usually first in during among others.

I also learned the heritage cuisine of the town, assembly for Monday flag ceremony..

I’ll let you figure out why. the native version of rice pudding, through his aunt, Darang My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others Mely.

HerBut, version the renowned Pudding ning Masantol. in court as itis turned out, I became a doctor.

It was the I value by balancing of God, family and myand employees same life intention, but in alove different way, to defend protect in Apalit Doctors Hospital.

For me, loyalty and commitment others from illness. are very important.

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CHAPTER 5

Pag Mayumu at Pang Minindal

Sampelut 128

When I was a child, we used have our cousins live with us during the summer breaks. My maternal grandmother used to cook native Filipino food for merienda, including palitaw, inangit, suman, lelut mais, but the most frequently prepared dish is SAMPELOT. My lola, with the assistance from my mother or aunt would prepare the ingredients while sharing various stories or watching telenovelas. Sometimes the children would also participate in precooking preparations, particularly in making the glutinous rice balls.

I was not formally taught on how to cook this dish. The cooking of this dish became familiar by watching how it was done by my elders.

Dr. Vianney Marie C. MANDAPAT

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MABALACAT

Sampelut Suam Mais

POT

8-10

AVERAGE

5 HOURS

placing a pinch of dough in between the palms and making a circular motion to roll the dough.

We used to prepare the coconut milk by also grinding mature coconut meat and mashing the coconut shreds with a cup of water and using a “katsa” cloth as filter to separate the “gata” from the coconut shreds. This gata ng niyog is used to

1 kilo malagkit rice (Glutinous rice) 3 cups water 6 pcs medium sized saging saba (saba banana) 3-4 pcs medium sized kamote (sweet potato) ¼ kilo sago (tapioca) 2 coconuts, grated 2 cups Langka (jackfruit) meat 2 cups white sugar

Unlike the more recent and convenient way of preparing sampelot with canned coconut milk and glutinous rice dough made with glutinous rice flour mixed with water, the more traditional way of preparing sampelot ingredients was learned from my grandmother.

The glutinous rice has to be soaked in water overnight. The soaked glutinous rice is brought in the market the next day for grinding to make it into a sticky dough which we roll into 1cm balls by

130

Soak the malagkit rice in water overnight before grinding to become the sticky dough.

Roll small bits of dough between two palms to make 1cm dough balls. Set aside. Cut banana and kamote into small square cubes approx.

1-1.5 cms. Mix 3 cups of water with grated coconut, mash and strain with cheesecloth or katsa to separate coconut milk (gata) from the meat. In a large pot, mix the coconut milk (gata) with the diced kamote and banana, bring to a boil. Once the mixture starts boiling, add sugar and bilo-bilo and sago. Let boil continuously until all the ingredients are cooked and the bilo bilo floated on top.

This may be served hot or cold. Add kakang gata (first coconult milk extract) on top for more flavor.

Dra. Vianney Marie Mandapat wears many hats— aside from being busy Pediatric in Pampanga, she is Duringamy school days,Pulmonologist my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” currently the Training Officer JBLMRH Department of (just rhyming the words).I wasofusually first in line during Pediatrics, and she is also active Pampanga Society assembly for Monday flag an ceremony..

I’ll let youMedical figure out why. officer.

And as if she’s not busy enough, she also opened a My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others Mediterranean-themed in Angeles City in court But, as it turnedrestaurant out, I became a doctor.

It last was2017. the And in her free time (yes, she does have free time!), she is into same intention, but in a different way, to defend and protect a bit offrom gardening others illness.and binge-watching as a hobby and tends to her furry babies Mucho and Tokyo. Therefore, Dra. Vianney does not sleep.

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6

SAMPUT SAMPUT

MENU FOR TODAY Chicken Kari Mushroom Chicharon Chicken Tropicana

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The samput-samput are samples of the dynamism in food culture where the current generation adapts to the fusion that is influential to the global market. These were included as part of the acceptance of the idea that food evolves according to the needs and preference of the consumers, while keeping intact to the original source of the recipe. In here, an evolved kari kari called chicken kari was prepared by a real chef. Chef Al Fernando as a modern twist against the original that also gained worldwide acclaim.

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CHAPTER 6 Samput Samput

Chicken Kari 134

This is a fusion recipe, a take off from the conventional kari kari we grew up with. Since ESTOS is a restaurant with the concept of being industrial and modern, the Chicken Kari was introduced as an alternative from the laborious preparation of traditional Kapampangan kari kari, retaining a taste that closely resembles it. This is designed to appeal to the taste buds of the younger generation. We find it appealing to the millennials, since the demographics of the people we serve are mostly millennials who eat while avoiding becoming messy as they stay for many hours of conversation with their friends.

Chef Al Lawrence FERNANDO

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GUAGUA

Chicken Kari Suam Mais

PAN

2-3

AVERAGE

2 HOURS

The kari mixture is a sautéed ground raw peanut turned into a paste, branded peanut butter, annatto oil, garlic and onion. I add flour to thicken the sauce which is then set aside. I only pour in the sauce right when somebody orders, This is for efficiency and convenience.

chicken wings and things ground raw peanut peanut butter

The shrimp paste is a conventional shrimp paste that is purchased in the market. Sautée it with bawang, sibuyas and sugar. A blender can be used just before sautéing, in order to make the paste’s texture appear more appealing to the younger audience.

For the coating: flour, cornstarch, sugar and salt annatto oil bawang (garlic) sibuyas (onion) paminta (black pepper) shrimp paste

The result is an enticing fried chicken that “carries” the taste of a conventional kari -kari ,but with the overall convenience of eating it without being messy on the table.

The chicken in this kari recipe is fried, with breading composed of a mixture of flour, cornstarch, sugar and salt. Once fried, Pour the kari mixture on top.

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During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” I am rhyming a full time chef who enjoys my daily (just the words).I was usually firstroutine in line managing during my own restaurant called ESTOS in Guagua, Pampanga.

Let assembly for Monday flag ceremony.. I’ll let you figure out why. me say that I am blessed with a wonderful family that let me My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and protect others do my thing, giving me the freedom to practice in court But, as it turned out, I became a doctor.what It wasI love the to do.

I also have a but wonderful partner named Claire,and whoprotect helps same intention, in a different way, to defend with ideas onillness. how to make our restaurant successful. others from

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CHAPTER 6 Samput Samput

Mushroom Chicharon 138

Edible mushrooms are an often ignored food, when they actually give health benefits in the most inexpensive way. Experts, especially medical scientists from the National Cancer Institute as cited by the www. cancer.gov , explain that mushrooms such as the maitake can actually boost your immune system and can possibly stop the spread of cancer cells. Aside from this, mushrooms have natural B-complex vitamins and are rich in protein and fiber.

Dr. Rein S. GRAN

LUBAO

139

Mushroom Chicharon

PAN

2-4

EASY

1 HR 30 MIN

2 tablespoons of cornstarch, all purpose flour and 2 eggs. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. This will serve as the batter for your mushroom chicharon. oyster mushrooms ground chicken powder cornstarch all -purpose flour ebun (Eggs) salt (Asin) pepper

Heat the vegetable oil for deep frying. When hot, dip each piece of mushroom in the batter, coating it completely.

When frying, it is better to slide the mushroom into the cooking oil in the pan one at a time to avoid sticking with the other mushrooms. They should be deep fried. They are cooked once they start to float in the cooking oil and turn a golden brown color.

Clean off the excess oil by thoroughly drying with paper towels. Serve them with aslam.

The mushroom recipe in this article is one I learned from the local restaurant here in Guagua called the Mushroomdelight Foodhub. The owner is a good friend of mine who has a farm in Lubao, Pampanga where he cultivates mushrooms.

II use oyster mushrooms for this particular mushroom chicharon bulaklak recipe. You can buy this at the Mushroomdelight Foodhub restaurant, as they sell the uncooked mushrooms in plastic wraps.. Prepare Âź kilo of fresh oyster mushrooms. To begin the process, combine salt, white pepper, ground chicken powder,

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I suffered from being overweight in the past. But after having some health issues I realized how important health is in our lives. One of my mantras in eating and enjoying food is that you let your food be your medicine. Aside from being a doctor and family man, one of my passions is to be a chef for my family and friends. I always enjoy explaining how everyone should eat healthy food, with an emphasis on living a healthy lifestyle.

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CHAPTER 4 Miki Nasi

Chicken Tropicana 142

Pistu is basically Spanish in origin.

It originated from the autonomous region of La Mancha, in the region of Murcia. It is more commonly known as Pisto Manchego and is a far cry from the traditional Pistu known in Pampanga. The Spanish ingredients are usually tomatoes, onions, eggplants, courgettes, green and red peppers, olive oil and sometimes, eggs.

In Pampanga, Pistu is usually served on important occasions like an observation of a 40th Day of the departed, a day before the advent of Christmas or the Saturday (Sabado De Gloria) after Holy Week. It’s usually a morning food, just before everyone starts their day.

Dr. Leticia C. YAP

ANGELES

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Chicken Tropical Suam Mais

PAN

potatoes asin (salt) gatas (milk) butter pamintang buu (ground pepper) manuk (chicken) sibuyas (onions) bawang (garlic) cream of mushroom soup all purpose cream

6-8

EASY

1 HR 30 MiN

Peel and dice one kilo of potatoes. Boil them in salted water for 12-15 minutes, until firm.. Place them in a colander and drain well, to avoid watery mashed potatoes. Place them in a bowl and mash them with a fork or a ricer. Gradually add 1 cup milk and 3 tbsp butter, while mashing. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside.

Boil a chicken of about 1-1.5 kg, until it is tender.

When cooked, shred the meat, and sautĂŠ it with onion and garlic . Add the cream of mushroom and all purpose cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into a large flat dish and top it with the prepared mashed potatoes.

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During my school days, my friends called me “Alice Kamatis” I(just am a true blooded Marinduquena, but Capampangan rhyming the words).I was usually first in line duringby heart.

I amfor the best example of a natural beauty, with cooking assembly Monday flag ceremony..

I’ll let you figure out why. expertise developed over the years.

My recipes sprinkled My ambition was to be a lawyer, to defend and are protect others with loveBut, for authentic native food. That makes in court as it turned out, Pampango I became a doctor.

It was the it a sure to prove theinpotential of way, an aspiring chef. samewin intention, but a different to defend and protect others from illness.

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