The City You're Missing: Dallas by Southwest: The Magazine

THE CITY YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE MISSING

Dallas

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THE CITY YOU’RE MISSING

Dallas No matter what you’re looking for, you’ll likely find it here, because Dallas is the most confident city in the country. BY JAY HEINRICHS

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STYLE AND SWAGGER Clockwise from top: Klyde Warren Park, the Dallas skyline, The Traveling Man sculpture in Deep Ellum, the George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum, and the Dallas Arboretum

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The Arts District covers 20 square blocks and includes the Dallas Museum of Art and other cultural attractions.

anniversary of the premiere of the TV ’m eating at Mercat Bistro in the Uptown neighseries Dallas, which is why I’m here—not borhood of Dallas, consuming a Croque Madame: to join the celebration but to take stock of fried egg on French bread, bechamel sauce, extra sin. what this city really is. Flamenco music plays softly in the background. A I’m enough of a geezer to remember waitress with long black hair flows among the tables that show back when it seemed like the on stiletto heels. entire world was watching it. Lasting 357 Is this Dallas? I mean, is this what Dallas is supepisodes over 14 seasons, Dallas featured posed to be? the Ewings, a family whose riches came I’m sitting outside on a beautiful, cool evening from oil and scheming. Larry Hagman at Dot’s Hop House and Cocktail Courtyard, a played J.R. Ewing, the nasty, beer garden in the part of town they call Deep stop-at-nothing grown eldest Ellum, drinking a local craft red ale with a few son. At the end of the third seafriendly locals. Huge outdoor mosaics celebrate son, somebody shot him. Fans musicians with Dallas ties like Lead Belly, Blind DALLAS counted numerous legitimate Lemon Jefferson, and Stevie Ray Vaughan. I finsuspects. It was the biggest cliffish off the first ale and contemplate another. WANT MORE? hanger in television history. “How about one with a little more bite but not Browse the People around the world wore too hoppy?” the waitress suggests. Inflight Entertainment “Who Shot J.R.?” T-shirts. In NoIs this Dallas? Portal for vember 1980, we found out whoI’m lying on a massage table in Spa Habitat, the best spots dunit. (One of J.R.’s jilted lovers, swaddled in a Rainforest Body Wrap (plastic to eat, drink, stay, and play it turns out.) The episode was sheets, flannel, aromatic oils), smelling lavender. in your final seen worldwide by an estimated Is this? destination. 350 million people. This year, the city celebrates the 40th It’s free!

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF DALLAS CVB PREVIOUS SPREAD: PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF DALLAS CVB, GEORGE W. BUSH PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM; PHOTOGRAPHY BY F11PHOTO /ISTOCK (SKYLINE)

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Kids Day

1 Klyde Warren Park / In the children’s area, you’ll find a playground, lawn games, and a mini amphitheater. Stick around for story time, or borrow a book from the lending library in the outdoor reading room.

A city that dreamed itself up I’ve spent stretches in Dallas for nearly 15 years, and eaten in many of its restaurants (it’s my favorite food town of all), but I’ve never really taken the time to immerse myself in the city. So this time I did. And let me cut to the chase: Dallas is exactly like the TV series. It has big wheeler-dealer business types, a shiny, neon-outlined cityscape, and the best steak money can buy. And Dallas is exactly not like the TV series. The only cowboys you’ll see are wearing football helmets. Sure, you can buy cowboy boots in this town (check out Miron Crosby in tree-lined and shop-filled Highland Park, where boots are priced in the four figures). But I saw exactly one cowboy hat, in the airport, and that dude didn’t look like he was from Dallas. When the Ewings ate, they ate steak. Yet Dallas is a terrific seafood town, an easy flight from the coasts—East, West, and Gulf. But wait. What is Dallas like, exactly? It’s like, well, it’s like whatever it wants to say it is. Old timers and fans of city history like to say that Dallas had no reason for being in the beginning. It wasn’t on a coast. It sat on a muddy, unnavigable river. No mountains, no minerals—not even oil underground. (That was in East Texas.) It wasn’t a railroad hub, or an industrial center. The only thing it had going for it were some boosters with an attitude far above their station. Former Mayor Steve Bartlett called

2 Dallas World Aquarium / This expansive facility is home to a living rainforest full of exotic birds and endangered species, as well as a 20,000gallon walk-through tunnel.

3 McKinney Avenue Trolley / Hop on one of these vintage streetcars for convenient sightseeing. The trolley oﬀers free transportation in Dallas’ Uptown neighborhood—plus, most of the cars are air-conditioned. 4 Kokopelli Candy / In addition to the standard candy and chocolates, this old-fashioned confectionery sells freshly baked cookies and gourmet ice cream in handmade waﬄe cones.

Dallas “America’s City.” And for good reason. Dallas is a place that willed itself into existence. It dreamed up an attitude and followed it somewhere. Which reminds me of an old Texas joke. A rancher sits in a bar and, after having a few Lone Stars, says to the man on the next stool: “It takes two days to drive across my spread.” “Yep,” the other guy says. “I had a truck like that once.” I like to think of the first guy as a Dallas man. He’s what makes Dallas Dallas. The same goes for the aspirational young professionals in Uptown. And the glittering, elaborate hotels. Here, you don’t aspire to be the best in the world at anything; you stand as if you are. And that just might be Dallas’ secret. “Some folks look at me and see a certain swagger,” longtime resident George W. Bush said when he was president. “Which in Texas is called walkin’.” He could have been talking about Dallas.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF DALLAS CVB (TROLLEY AND PARK); PHOTOGRAPHY BY NAMEPIC/ISTOCK (SEAHORSE), ACCEPTFOTO/ISTOCK

Though the show ended in 1991, it continued for years in syndication in other countries (with a sequel running for three seasons on TNT beginning in 2012). To people around the world, Dallas was no mere TV show. It was America, land of ranches and cowboy hats and money, lots and lots of money. It was oil and tall buildings and big-haired women, where if you had the ruthless drive you could rule the world. And so Dallas the city got the biggest branding boost in the history of television. No longer just the city where JFK was assassinated, Dallas became America’s city. (The Cowboys became “America’s Team” around that time.) Tourists started coming, no longer just to witness the scene of a tragedy. They came to see America.

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I checked in to the Hotel Crescent Court, whose recent $30 million renovation seems an exercise in calm confidence. If you want the feeling of open spaces, book a suite there. I literally had a bit of trouble finding the bedroom. It’s past the suite’s entry hallway, past the vast living room and guest bathroom, past the gigantic flat screen. Make a wrong turn (I did), and you find yourself in a master bathroom the size of a moderate spa. And this wasn’t even one of the big suites. I headed downtown to meet with Carmen Hillebrand, an oﬃcial at the Dallas Area Rapid Transit. DART has been expanding in the past few years, already covering 700 square miles and 13 cities. Pink and yellow buses on the D-Link route snake through the downtown area, showing up every 15 minutes and connecting to the light

Healthy Play Day

1 Mudhen Meat & Greens / Treat yourself to a balanced breakfast at this farm-to-table restaurant. After your meal, head next door to the Dallas Farmers Market (pictured).

2 Katy Trail / Built on an old railroad line, this historic trail stretches for 3.5 tree-lined miles. For a post-jog pick-me-up, stop at Toulouse Café and Bar along the trail. 2

3 White Rock Lake / Take advantage of Dallas’ app-based bike-share programs and peddle your way along the water. This gem boasts a paved 9.3-mile trail. Pro tip: Go early to avoid the crowds. 4 Dallas Arboretum / Located on the shore of White Rock Lake, the arboretum encompasses 66 acres of botanical gardens. Take a stroll through any of the venue’s 19 distinct garden displays.

rail and a trolley line. Buses on the Love Link route will pick you up from Love Field, one of Dallas’ two main airports, and take you to the nearby light rail station. “We like to say that Love Field is Dartable,” Hillebrand says. So are many other places throughout the city. I thought I knew Dallas. I definitely didn’t know its transit system. It’s not the sort of thing the city has a reputation for. Strolling down McKinney Avenue, the main thoroughfare in Uptown, I saw a streetcar ambling by and hopped on. As with the D-Link buses, there’s no fare. When I got off a few miles south, the conductor climbed down ahead of me and held up a stop sign so I could cross a lane of traﬃc. Which leads to another adjective you don’t tend to use with Dallas: quaint. You also don’t expect to see a lot of bike shares in this valet-parking city. But you do, the dockless kind. Now you see the bikes scattered all over the city. For a further surprise, however, try walking. This has become a much more pedestrian-friendly city. Some years ago, I would head up McKinney Avenue, dodging cars along the way and stopping at a coffee shop. One day, the barista said to me, “I recognize you: You’re the walker!” These days, I see plenty of walkers. This isn’t Manhattan, mind you. You won’t see the kind of stroller the French call a ﬂaneur. But people are starting to stretch their legs.

Keep strolling Another feature Dallas isn’t known for: developed parks. And this actually is the great thing about Dallas. When it notices it doesn’t have something, it manages to come up with it. Because this is America’s City, and America has everything. I walked from the trolley stop to Klyde Warren Park, a spectacular 5.2-acre green space that sits atop a highway. It has a cool children’s play area, chess and ping-pong tables, a dog park, a putting green, evening entertainment, yoga classes, and even a gastropub. For a more natural experience, there’s White Rock Lake and the nearby Dallas Arboretum. It was a cold day when I went there, and I happened to be the only visitor. The lady manning the help desk looked at me as if I were planning to tag

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF DALLAS CVB, FRIENDS OF THE KATY TRAIL (MAN AND DOGS)

The swaggering just got easier

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Presidential dreams I headed to Southern Methodist University, a few miles north of Uptown. I entered the campus down a broad lane lined by live oaks. That stately presence is warranted. With its all-around academics, highly regarded business and art schools, and pipeline of graduates into Dallas’ economy and culture, SMU boasts a significant footprint in the city. Also, Dallas is a big—and I mean Big D big—sports town, and SMU fits right in. I walked through the SMU campus until I came to the George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum. An interactive exhibit, standard in presidential libraries these days, lets you help decide whether to invade Iraq. There’s also an exact full-size replica of the Oval Oﬃce. My plan was to eat lunch back in Uptown at Bowen House, where they serve a Sloppy Joe grilled cheese. But I had failed to notice that the place was closed at lunch, so my friend Mark and I admired the lovely wood fire in the fireplace and then headed to one of the most reliable restaurants in Uptown: S&D Oyster Company. It’s an old timey place with checkered tablecloths and waiters who look like

Art Day

1 Arts District / Spread across 20 square blocks, this walkable area is home to the Dallas Museum of Art, the Winspear Opera House, the Nasher Sculpture Center, and more. 2 Design District / Channel your inner artist at Dallas Glass Art, where you can learn glassblowing, or check out one of the nation’s largest collections of contemporary British art at the Goss-Michael Foundation gallery.

3 Deep Ellum / This former warehouse district is now a hotbed for music, innovative cuisine, and graﬃti art. Oﬀ the Record is a bar, live music venue, and vinyl record shop all in one. The Free Man features live jazz every day. 4 Bishop Arts District / This area is known for its small-town feel and independently owned shops and restaurants. Pick up a page-turner (and grab a beer) at The Wild Detectives before heading to We Are 1976 for a letterpress card.

they’ve been there since the joint was founded in 1976. I had a dozen raw oysters with sauce mixed in front of me by the waiter. Afterward I paid a visit to Noelle LeVeaux, interim president and executive director of Uptown Dallas Inc. Uptown is an aspirational neighborhood; its resident population, 18,000 in 2016, has grown by 66 percent since 2010. Judging by the people walking around, most of them seem to be millennials. Actually, it’s more than 40 percent, LeVeaux says. “People ask me why all the cranes, and I tell them, ‘That’s because people want to live here.’” That evening’s meal: Salum Restaurant, a high-end restaurant run by Abraham Salum. I had a serious mission: to try his famous rack of lamb. He changes the menu every month, but the lamb stays constant. It was juicy, perfectly savory, with just a bit of bite to it, as if a Kobe beef cow had gotten itself a Middle Eastern education. Meanwhile, I needed to do some shopping for my

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF DALLAS CVB; PHOTOGRAPHY BY HOLGER OBENAUS (GLASS ART), BRETT REDMAN (DEEP ELLUM)

the North Pole. “You want to see the Arboretum, hon, I suggest you walk in there,” pointing to a nearby door, “and watch the video.” I skipped the video and wandered around the flower beds past fountains and a mansion with a small restaurant inside it. Looping back around, I paused at a water feature with the sculpture of a woman staring at the vista of White Rock Lake. This was more like Dallas Dallas, only accessible. That night I had an early dinner with Debbie, a colleague, at Bullion, a new downtown brasserie run by Bruno Davaillon, a well-known Dallas chef. I had the superb bison pot au feu, a filet with beef broth and bone marrow. The next morning, I walked a few blocks from the hotel to Mercat Bistro. In the lobby of the adjacent oﬃce building, I noticed figures of mounted samurai warriors. The horses and warriors were realistically fake. The clothing was real, a display curated by The Samurai Collection. You find art like that scattered in odd places throughout the city.

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Scaled-up downtown I kept wandering around downtown. This area used to be rather tired, with a couple big hotels, a few old restaurants, and very few residents. Fifteen years ago, 40 downtown buildings stood empty. Today, the area was jumping with pedestrians, mixed residential and oﬃce space, and several new or renovated hotels. On Commerce Street in the heart of downtown, the Statler, which opened in 1956, just underwent a major renovation that honors its jet-set

Fancy Shopping Day

1 Mercat Bistro / Start your weekend with a European-style brunch at this Parisian eatery, a quiet respite nestled in the heart of the city. A menu must-have: house-made ricotta with local honeycomb.

2 Miron Crosby / In Texas, no shopping trip is complete without a cowboy boot purchase. Highland Park Village is home to this high-end boutique where you can design a custom pair. 2

3 TenOverSix / The high-concept store may have L.A. roots, but its vibes are all Dallas. Located in The Joule Hotel, this downtown shop is a carefully curated mix of accessories, home décor, art, and gifts. 4 The Adolphus Hotel / Sip on a cup of Darjeeling while you drink in the hotel’s rich history and elegant ambiance. Afternoon tea, held Friday through Sunday, includes a selection of finger sandwiches and pastries.

origins. I checked out the hotel’s rooftop pool and bar. It should have had a sign saying, “You have to be this cool to be here.” I’m not that cool. Just off the lobby, I found a pop-up store under the ironic brand Unbranded, which specializes in opening pop-ups throughout Dallas. The woman running the store, Gisela Borghi, is an Argentine Italian who specializes in goods crafted by artisans in her home countries. She calls her store Ora et Labora, Latin for pray and work. “I don’t mean it in a religious way,” she explains. “It just stands for that attitude of contemplative, thoughtful approaches to life.” I bought a bronze bracelet with Tuscan marble made in Cortina, Italy, along with a pair of bronze earrings each in the shape of a hand. In the Statler lobby, I met with Shalissa Perry, chief marketing oﬃcer for Downtown Dallas Inc. The rentals are cheaper here (averaging $1,200 a month) than Uptown ($1,970), but the apartments are 90 percent occupied. Four downtown parks are in the works, including “the smartest park in the world.” (It has something to do with Wi-Fi and urban gardening.) This neighborhood is walkable, with good transit, and is packed with restaurants. Hungry, I stopped into Commissary, which has grab-and-go food, and had an excellent meatball sub. A short walk from Commissary lies the flagship store for Neiman Marcus, a Dallas institution. I felt I needed a dose of the old-time TV version of Dallas, and nothing in the city represents this better than Neiman Marcus, with its over-the-top Christmas catalog and fashions serving the traditional Dallas elite. I bought a floral wrap dress that cost only a little more than I could reasonably afford. Marriage rescue achieved.

Where you’re from, cold beer, and Mom Deep Ellum was next. At Dot’s, I took a seat at a picnic table set in a large, sunny patio. One of the bar’s co-founders, Jeff Brightwell, joined me, along with a pair of city planners and Emily Vanderstraaten, marketing director with the Deep Ellum Foundation. Dot’s is named after Brightwell’s mother. “If there’s three things Texas boys love,” he says, “it’s where they’re from, cold beer, and their mom.”

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF MIRON CROSBY (BOOTS), MERCAT BISTRO, TENOVERSIX; PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN VISNEAU (ADOLPHUS)

wife, whose birthday I had dangerously managed to miss. Stopping into The Joule hotel downtown, I looked into TenOverSix, a store with an eclectic collection of clothes, jewelry, and expensive knickknacks. I randomly pulled from a rack a dress with pants. It was beautiful, with a sheer floral pattern. The price tag was very high-end Dallas. I had to suppress a gasp.

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Untitled-6

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In Deep Ellum, High & Tight puts the bar in barbershop, and Glazed Donut Works attracts the latenight crowd.

the set finished, the musicians played “When the Saints Go Marching In” while parading through the small bar. The place was crowded for a weeknight. I had hoped to stop by local favorite Glazed Donut Works but had completely run out of gas. Past my geezer bedtime. I headed back to my suite at the Crescent, found the bedroom, and crashed.

Dallas dreams faster than you Years ago, when I was asked to do some business in Dallas, I was pretty excited. This was a new city for me, and I thought of its glittering skyline and imagined rich people riding around in limos festooned with longhorns. I got that partly right. The city definitely glitters, and it doesn’t lack rich people. It has all the amenities of a great weekend city. I’d been before to the superb downtown aquarium, the Dallas Museum of Art, and other museums, all within a few blocks of Klyde Warren Park. But those places (except the park) weren’t open when I shot through this time around. No matter. I’ll be back. And when I am, I’ll bring with me something I learned this time: If you want to find something in Dallas, just trust that it’s there. Name it, and it’s there, even if it doesn’t seem the kind of place that would have it. Trust that somebody in Dallas dreamed of it before you did. And if they dreamed of it, it happened. As far as I can tell, this is the true Dallas. You should imagine yourself there. Jay Heinrichs is editorial director of this magazine and author of The New York Times best-seller Thank You for Arguing.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF HIGH & TIGHT, GLAZED DONUT WORKS

For a century, Deep Ellum centered Dallas’ industry. Dot’s is part of a former Model T factory; the door pulls look like they could have been taken from old leftover hubs. I was reluctant to leave Dot’s, but we had work to do. Actually, play to do. Vanderstraaten led us on a tour of Deep Ellum, whose core is intimately walkable. I poked my head into High & Tight, a barbershop with a bar in the back, where you can get a haircut and a cocktail in one sitting. We went on to a chicken place called Brick & Bones, sharing spicy and regular fried chicken while sitting at a large table. I washed mine down with a Lit Chickens cocktail, made with roasted pineappleinfused mezcal and rye whiskey. Time for music, which has a rich history in Deep Ellum. Blues legends played there in the early 1900s. After decades where buildings sat vacant, the neighborhood re-emerged as the center of Dallas’ music scene in the 1980s. We had a whiskey at Twilite Lounge while listening to an Americana band. The Winter Olympics were on TV, so we watched figure skating while listening to the music. Incongruous in all the right ways. The whole scene reminded me of Austin before Austin got big. We went a few doors down to Armoury D.E., where an old-time jazz band was playing. Two couples swing-danced in front of them, while the band looked on appreciatively. When

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COME SEE THE Many Sides of Dallas DALLAS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL May brings big things to the big screen in Dallas, when filmmakers from across Texas and the international film community descend on the city for eight spectacular days of storytelling through film, television, VR and more. WHEN? May 3–10

WHERE? The Magnolia Theatre in West Village

SAVOR DALLAS Dallas has something for every taste. Satisfy yours at the Southwest’s premiere foodie event. Enjoy seven days of intimate chef dinners, culinary seminars, wine and spirits tastings, and bites by more than 100 local restaurants. It’s an unforgettable epicurean journey hosted by the city’s top culinary talent. WHEN? May 14–20

WHERE? All over Dallas

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Dallas’ best golf event is back in town—literally. The storied golf tournament celebrates its 50thth year with a move to the PGA Tour’s “most intriguing new venue,” the Trinity Forest Golf Club in South Dallas. See your favorite pros battle it out to benefit the Momentous Institute, which provides therapy and education services to 6,000 Dallas kids and family members each year. WHEN? May 14–20

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