HUB Style - Issue #01-2024

Periodico bimestrale - Registrazione al Trib di Milano n° 178 del 9 giugno 2017 - Poste Italiane SpA Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 - conv. in Legge 46/2004 Art. 1 Comma 1 - LOM /MI /2804. In caso di mancato recapito inviare all’ufficio postale di Roserio per la restituzione al mittente che si impegna a pagare la relativa tariffa.

N.01-2024 • ISS UE #44

S T Y

cover story

Beyond Time.

Handing down elegance

topic

Focus shirt: born in a shirt The new idea of shopping is not online Italian fashion grows in 2023

hubstylemag

L E

contemporary active premium

sneaker

Respect is mutual Trend&news Five years being first

brand

Arovescio Ciesse Piumini Kangra Lorenzoni Montecore

S H O R T F I L M _ S TA R R I N G OT TAV I A N O B L I TC H

E D I T O R I A L

IN NEED OF THE PHYSICAL We talked about this last month already but we gladly return to the topic of physical distribution. In crisis, if we consider the figures: in fact, data from Unioncamere and InfoCamere show a drop of over 9 thousand stores between 2019 and 2023, with particular impact on individual firms and less structured companies. However, the category of multibrand stores holds and keeps representing the main reference point for many sectors, including the fashion industry.

Yet, thinking in qualitative and not only quantitative terms, we must also say that, especially in the fashion market, the network of specialized stores still represents an excellence for our country, including boutiques, sportswear stores, sneaker shops, department stores and retailers focusing on the dialogue or the real hybridization between fashion, streetwear, outdoor and other worlds. Realities which were fairly distant from each other in the past, and each with its own rules, codes and target audience. Today, more and more are integrated and mixed, with their risks (few) and opportunities (many).

We like to think that HUB Style has been able to read this evolution, which is not a static element or a slow process. But, even within a clear and outlined frame, one that almost daily adds new subjects, strokes and shades in a constantly changing picture, just as a painter does. For this reason, with a choice initially viewed with suspicion by some insiders (few, to tell the truth), our editorial project has put together these various segments that today make up a multifaceted fashion world. It was done by addressing the entire sector community, from the end-public to the industry. Using in fact three means of privileged distribution and somehow “infallible” to get to as many people and readers as possible.

First of all, through physical stores, to which HUB Style is sent free of charge; therefore, it’s easy that it gets read not only by the owners and buyers, but also by their customers. Then there is the digital channel, exponentially increasing the circulation of the magazine in its full digital version, which will also be featured in two languages for the January and June issues, in conjunction with Pitti and other Italian and foreign fairs. In addition to the Fashion Weeks.

And that’s exactly these kinds of appointments that represent the third way HUB Style is distributed, which is, as you will have noticed, always present at any relevant event and is often the media partner of the most important occurrences. During edition number 105 of Pitti, where we will participate with our stand, as usual, the first issue of the year will be handed over throughout the fair. This time, representing a record output in terms of layers and richness of contents. A result which was possible thanks to the increasingly numerous and prestigious partners supporting us, as well as the tens of thousands of passionate and loyal readers who have themselves contributed to the growth of the project, making it a point of reference in the editorial scene.

Among these, may we be allowed for a particular mention to the physical stores. Because it is well established, and we reiterate it in our “Analytic” section, that the much-desired shopping experience lived in the physical store is difficult to be reproduced digitally. Many, perhaps all, have tried to accelerate the online channels, especially from the Covidperiod onwards. But, figures at hand, and also analyzing a few significant case histories of some big e-commerce players whose data were well below expectations, it seems that in this historical moment the consumer is generally more inclined to live in person and in physical spaces his own purchase experience, at least in our industry. Of course, the online sales are in any case destined to consolidate and grow, representing an important percentage of the business which should not be underestimated, but rather overlooked. However, the above trend represents good news to start the year with for a main reason, the one that still definitely separates sales and purchase: the human relationship (that’s quite something).

BENEDETTO S IR ONI

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Publisher: MagNet S.r.l. SB Director: ANGELO FRIGERIO Editorial Director: BENEDETTO SIRONI Project Manager: CRISTIANO ZANNI EDITORS: VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, MARIA PINA CIUFFREDA, ALESSANDRO MARRA Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors: MARCO RIZZI, ANGELO RUGGERI Translator: BENEDETTA BRUNI Editorial Staff: Via Tertulliano 68/70 - 20137 Milano - Tel: 02.87245180 Corso della Resistenza, 23 - 20821 Meda (MB) - redazione.hubstyle@mag-net.it - www.hubstyle.it Print: Alphaprint - Busto Arsizio (VA) - One copy: 1,00 euro Year 08 - N.01 / 2024 Bimonthly periodical - Registration at the Trib in Milan no. 178 of 9 June 2017 - Registration with ROC No. 16155 of 23 November 2007 The publisher guarantees the utmost confidentiality of the personal data in its possession. This data will be used to manage subscriptions and to send commercial information.

According to Art. 13 of Law No. 196/2003, data may be corrected or deleted at any time writing to: MagNet S.r.l. SB Data Manager: Benedetto Sironi - Corso della Resistenza, 23 - 20821 Meda (MB) Closed December 22, 2023

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C O N T E N T

INTERVIEW Handpicked: selected with care

48

COVER STORY 16-19 Montecore: Beyond Time. Handing down elegance

TRADE A renewed optimism

50

NEW TALENT Code word: fluidity

ZOOM Arovescio: reversing the schemes

52-53

RETAIL STORY 22-24 Eredi Chiarini: digital tradition Nino Álvarez: when competence meets taste

FROM FASHION New arrivals and new departures

54

BUTTON-DOWN Born in a shirt

26-28

LIMITED EDITI ON Bomboogie: contemporary synthesis

56

ANALYTIC The new idea of shopping is not online

30-32

PREVIEW FW 2 4/25 Satorisan: to feel well Ellesse: more than just a shoe Kelto Wear Design: a diamond is forever

NEWS Partnership, capsule & retail

08-12

20

MARKET Italian fashion grows in 2023 ZOOM Kangra: telling their own story

34

36-37

INSIDE SHOWROOM Aretè Showroom: one thing leads to another

38

CAPSULE COLLECTION Diktat: free to dress SHOWCASE FW 24/25 Time for fashion

58-62

64

66-73

ZOOM Lorenzoni: unconditional love

40-41

SNEAKER TREND Respect is mutual

74

FOCUS ON Dolomite: stronger than stones HDry: outdoor in the city

42-44

SNEAKER NEWS

75

ZOOM Ciesse Piumini: true to the origins

46-47

SNEAKER SHOWCASE INSIDE THE STORE Big Soup: five years being first

16-19

26-28

34

74-78

MONTECORE: BEYOND TIME

ITALIAN FASHION GROWS

BORN WITH SHIRT

SNEAKER SECTION

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76-77 78

N E W S ,

PA R T N E R S H I P S

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C A P S U L E

A CIRCULAR CAPSULE

Fashion as a synonym for redemption and freedom of expression.

This is the idea that resides in Marcello Pipitone’s collections, the designer born in the suburbs of Milan who translates his motto into garments influenced by sportswear with a clear green attitude. It was from this spirit that the collaboration with Albiate 1830 was born, the sportswear brand of Albini Group, which has created a path that investigates emerging fashion trends without losing sight of the manufacturing tradition, the beating heart of the brand. A unique partnership that demonstrates how the supply chain and emerging designers can give new life to the world of denim.

ENCOUNTER OF HEARTS AND MINDS

Inspired by the journey, the collaboration between Sacai and Moncler gave birth to a collection designed for anyone who wants to live experiences that create lasting memories and leave a mark. Composed by four looks, two for him and two for her, the proposal consists of several pieces allowing wearers to decompose and recompose them as they please, interacting with the garments themselves. An innovative partnership that combines the past and the future of the Italian brand, ushering in a new era. Here, the Moncler outdoor dna blends with the aesthetics of the Japanese brand, giving rise to products with a sartorial and sophisticated style, born from a pragmatic approach and designed to create new forms and functionalities.

FOR THE MAXIMUM COMFORT

A union of glamour and functionality. Pollini presents the third edition of Ice Cracker, a mountain-dedicated capsule designed for those who want to live the summits without sacrificing style and comfort. A collection that draws inspiration from the classic trekking boots, revisited in a contemporary key. Made of nubuck, animalier pony, up to the most iridescent textures recalling the colors of ice.

C R E AT I V E O U T B U RST

NEVER CHANGE A WINNING TEAM

Canada Goose announces the launch of its 12th collaboration with the Toronto-based brand OVO, featuring cold season essentials that offer warmth, mobility, versatility and durability. Among the wide range of products are the iconic chilliwack bomber, developed as a tribute to the bush pilots of Northern Canada, the knit scarf, offering softness, warmth and breathability, and the knit balaclava, a winter accessory that suits any occasion thanks to its versatility and ability to protect from any weather condition.

Textile research and meticulous processing of fabrics are the key elements of the capsule collection born from the collaboration between the artist Sean Wotherspoon, the Italian brand Barrow and Round Two. Inspired by the past and future of streetwear, each garment involves different techniques of embroidery, decoration and finishing.

Expression of taste, research and quality. A sensory experience that wants to celebrate the art of made in Italy and aesthetic taste.

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N E W S ,

PA R T N E R S H I P S

&

C A P S U L E

A D A I LY D R E A M

The magic in the lightness of a movement. Alberta Ferretti imagines a wardrobe that crosses the thousand nuances of female personality.

A palette of dark gray and black, champagne, pink and blue. A game of contrasts between male and female stylistic codes that dialogue in fluid and vertical silhouettes. A malleable collection made of cashmere, satin, organza, flannel and soft wool.

LET IT SNOW

Innovation, uncompromising performance and Italian excellence. These are the values shared in the partnership between Maserati and Colmar.

Two collections, “Corse” and “Futura”, designed for men and women, consisting in skis, overalls and trousers with high performance waterproof and breathable features, which are distinctive characteristics in Colmar. Everything enriched by the logos of the two Italian excellences.

SHINY WINTER

Expression of minimalist sportswear.

The new collaboration signed by Swarovski and Puma sparkles with its tailor-made essential garments.

Silhouettes embellished with shiny and eye-catching details, such as the Puma cat logo, portrayed with a series of colorful Swarovski crystals. The collection is characterized by a track top and coordinated track pants, as well as an oversized and cropped t-shirt available in three colors.

H ATS O F F

The legendary French maison Saint Laurent and Borsalino meet for an exclusive collaboration. The capsule collection consists of a soft wool felt hat, available in two colors: black and blueberry. Personalized on grosgrain tape with the distinctive codes of the two brands. Inside the hat, the engraved signature of the Borsalino x Saint Laurent partnership.

I N CO N STA N T E VO LU T I O N

Minimalism, innovation and sustainability: a new collaboration between Unity and ACBC is born. A contemporary design that reflects the dynamic spirit of the modern metropolis, where every garment is an expression of adaptability and innovation, in a vibrant combination of stimuli and influences. The shoe, rather than an accessory, becomes a symbol of responsibility and contemporaneity.

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R E T A I L

GUCCI REOPENS IN VIA MONTE NAPOLEONE

There’s a deep bond between Gucci and the city of Milan, and this has been further enriched by the reopening of the brand’s historical boutique in Via Monte Napoleone. An essential and natural environment that pays homage to Italian beauty and craftsmanship. The cipollino marble and bardiglio for the floors, forming intricate geometric patterns, recall the elements of the most emblematic residential structures of Milan. A concept perfectly in tune with Sabato De Sarno’s creative flair.

HOLIDAYS IN CORTINA FOR FILSON

The pioneering spirit of the American outdoor reality Filson has arrived in Cortina, the diamond of the Dolomites, in via Benin 1. The store, expanded into a space of about 100 square meters, is entirely covered in wood: a format that the brand will adopt for every European shop. A place inspired by the elements of nature and the cities of the state of Washington, precisely Seattle, the current headquarter of the label’s product factory.

MONCLER’S MAGIC FOREST

Moncler debuts in St. Moritz with its first flagship store, exclusively dedicated to Moncler Grenoble.

The shop, designed by the architecture studio Küchel Architects, expands over a 300 square meters surface, inspired by the surrounding environment.

Natural raw elements coexist with design features and massive double-height ceilings that contribute to recreate a magical and enchanting atmosphere. A tribute to the roots of the brand.

THE MILANESE DEBUT OF MARSÈLL

The Quadrilatero della Moda in Milan was enriched with an additional space in via della Spiga 42. The brand of accessories and footwear from the Veneto region Marsèll inaugurated its first flagship store of 400 square meters divided into two levels hosting men’s and women’s collections, with the addition of a gallery to present collaborations and artistic projects. The space is the result of a long collaboration with Lotto Studio, designers Mirko Ihrig and Casey Lewis.

THE TEMPORARY SHOP SIGNED RIFÒ

The ancient Prato tradition of the regeneration of textile fibers has arrived in Milan with an exclusive temporary shop signed Rifò. The brand, coherent with the values of environmental and social responsibility, was already present in the Milanese city in four multi-brand stores, but now it kicked off this new project in Corso Garibaldi 46 which will remain active until January 2024. A circular fashion experience inviting customers to adopt a conscious buying model.

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C O V E R

S T O R Y

BEYOND TIME. HANDING DOWN ELEGANCE Innovation as a lifestyle. Montecore’s concept revolutionized the outwear: timeless design, tailoring manufacture, perfect fit and exclusive hi-tech fabrics

by Cristiano Zanni

S

tyle and functionality. But also quality, tailoring passion, durability and personality. Everything guided by constant research in the fabric field.

This is Montecore, the brand set in the Marche region that disrupted the outwear sector with its birth about 20 years ago, making sartorial a sports jacket.

Founded by the visionary Fabio Peroni, the soul of the brand, he continued to look out for new opportunities to hybridize fabrics and techniques, perfectly meeting the needs of a modern and dynamic clientele. The brand is focused on research and development of exclusive and high-quality fabrics, with focus on innovation and giving value to a wise artisanal know-how. Indeed, each production step was studied to make the garments look solid, realized with exclusive fabrics, with features so comfortable that the wearer becomes addicted. And with a quality to hand down to future generations, hence respecting the tradition of doing well. In a talk with us, the founder described the outlooks for Montecore, among anecdotes, heritage and future projects.

How was Montecore born? What are its values?

Montecore was born as a brand in 2005. But the project started in 1996, much before its actual foundation, from a personal path of mine. It revolves around the idea of creating tailoring sportswear, a concept that didn’t exist on

the market yet. My background belongs to tailoring and, starting exactly from this, I declined the artisanal dna to the sports jacket. The name of the brand is the same as my first Bull Terrier, Montecore indeed, which appears on the logo too. The Bull Terrier is strong, responsive, driven and fast, with a build well placed on the ground: features that respect the philosophy of the brand, realizing solid products and lasting in time, a constant to the trends flowing. We embraced innovation but stayed faithful to our vision. Today, I can wear a Montecore’s jacket from 30 years ago and still look modern. Our garments can be easily recognized with their fine lines. The Combat, our first traditional jacket padded with nylon, was absolute news. An unprecedented success in the earlier Pitti too, where people would queue up for it. We chose our menswear clothing to be consistent, solid and valid over time. We knew how to change, but we never changed the cornerstones from where we started, updating a tradition built over time.

How did the brand evolve over the years?

There has been no drastic change, but simple evolutions revolving around the same idea. The consumer’s needs have changed, and now he wants softer and more comfortable clothes. So as for today’s cars, compared to 30 years ago: they have the same functions but it’s the pro-

From the left: an image of the FW 22/23 and a shot of FW 23/24

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C O V E R

S T O R Y

Some shots of Montecore’s winter collection 2023

cess that changed. Our Country Jacket is now dated 1998, but nowadays it’s more comfortable compared to the past models. It’s realized in cashmere wool, feathered, sewed with many tiny considerations, better finishings, things that evolved just like consumers did. The features have been ennobled. The structure is the same, but the things that get modified stay still true to the idea from which Montecore was born.

Who is Montecore’s client?

Montecore’s client is a man, but also a woman, who loves wearing experimental and high-end outerwear. He loves beautiful things and prefers a comfortable garment, with

tailoring quality, that can make him feel at ease, yet elegant, on any occasion.

As of today, how much do menswear sales weigh compared to women’s? Future outlooks?

Menswear’s request is very broad, it’s worth circa 80%.

We’re working very hard on men’s collections with the intention to strengthen the company, meeting deliveries, quality and service, which are all top priorities for us. Our choice with womenswear is to have it in a limited number of appealing stores. The collection will be completely renewed for next year (January 2025). It takes the right time to conceive and produce high-quality garments.

A photo of the FW 23/24 campaign

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C O V E R

S T O R Y

Above. Some images of the menswear collection FW 23/24

On the left, a shot from the archive of the Montecore Neve collection. On the right, the marketing campaign of the FW 09/10 collection.

How can your products meet the needs of an increasingly aware market and how are they precursors of trends?

By constant updates with no distortion of our soul. This is one of the principles characterizing Montecore’s philosophy.

The market changes everyday and we are in constant evolution too, at least concerning quality, research of fabrics, the structure of the models. The high-quality of our outerwear makes it easier for it to be handed down over generations.

How much is research important for you and how do you apply it in the outwear segment?

I have been personally conducting research on fabrics since I can remember. This is one of my peculiarities.

It’s a sort of mania and passion. It all starts here: I can invest even one or two years to fine-tune a fabric. But once it’s done, the result is forever. Only once we are convinced with the material, we can develop the collection. Montecore doesn’t look at the latest fashion. Our archives are historical, they are more than 20 years old and are full of heritage. I dedicated two years of my life

to put the AēroTwill materials in order, and now clients can’t do without it. The materials make the difference and, besides the quality of the fabric, there must also be a well-made garment, the impeccable façon such as the finishings. We don’t save on anything and that’s why the client is so passionate about us, about a product to discover over time through the details, so fine that it seems like they’re hidden. Our structures allow us to naturally do what we love: research for the sake of the creation of a quality product, lasting over time.

What innovative projects are you currently working on?

We have a lot of projects in constant evolution. There’s Trixon, a natural wool-inspired fabric with a very similar structure despite being 100% polyester, giving a wooly but technological effect. This super lightweight project will be launched in January. What’s so special about it? Once you wear it you can never live without it. And I can assure you, I have tested it for a whole year. It’s a charm: light fabric, with membrane, rainproof, windproof, stain-resistant and visually elegant.

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C O V E R

S T O R Y

T H E H I STO RY O F M O N T E CO R E Some images of the FW 23/24 womenswear collection

2006: Fabio Peroni founds the Montecore brand 2007: the Motom gets launched, the first tailoring jacket model, sporty and technical, in motorcycle style and dated 1997. In the same year, the first ADV campaign with the nylon bomber jacket is released 2008: the Neve line was born, composed by two nylon lacqué down jackets with white zipper closures 2009: debut of the Caffè Racer line, evolution of the Neve collection. Made in nylon with contrasts in English Shetland, feather padding and detachable hood 2010: launch of the Snow Black line. A padded jacket with a dynamic look, made in super opaque nylon with vintage details and black contrasts

Historical photo of the SS 2014 collection by Montecore

How is your supply chain organized, both for research and development and production?

Our mission in production is to make the things we are better at. We can count on the best production partners worldwide. The design is completely internal instead, totally Italian. Or better, from the Marche region.

In terms of distribution, in which markets are you present? And which would you like to approach?

We are present all over the world.

What is the sales ratio between Italy and foreign markets?

Montecore can count on 30% Italy compared to 70% international markets.

How did the brand grow in 2023 in terms of turnover? Any outlook for 2024?

We are constantly growing and reaching good re-

sults. We have good outlooks for our future and we intend to improve further our increasingly qualified distribution.

Where will Montecore be in 10 years?

In 10 years, Montecore will be even stronger. Of course, it will have evolved somehow, but with no distortions. My dream is to have an internal team which is young, fresh and who shares the same ideals as I do. I tend to delegate a lot; each area is self-managed and responds to the needs of the brand. As the soul of the company, I deal with fabrics and collections.

Today, success means following the client properly, staying close to retailers, having a good replenishment service. Montecore has voluntarily closed its online channels. We didn’t want to compete with our clients. We are very close to stores, both Italian and international, with which we have constant conversation and discussion. To us, the relationship with people is fundamental.

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2011: the first bi-stretch down jacket is produced, with Rain-system technology. So was the 244 model born 2014: the 244 becomes a superlight down jacket with leather contrasts and bi-stretch technology. This year also marks the launch of the first parka featuring water-repellent fabric, with waterproof finishings and ton sur ton wool inserts 2016: evolution of the Motom jacket.

Versatile fit, warm and ultra-light in 3L bistretch. Realized with windproof materials and waterproof zippers with an innovative thermoresistant padding 2016-2023: the project “Natural and timeless sustainability” was born, a sustainable collection made with completely natural fibers, timeless and to be handed down over generations: extra-fine wools, padded with silk and biodegradable membranes 2023: AēroTwill is launched, a new technical fabric, the protagonist of the SS 24 collection

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T A L E N T

CODE WORD: FLUIDITY The more the time passes, the more this trend is confirmed. Fashion doesn’t need to distinguish genders anymore, but rather to create “genderless” collections with neither labels nor prejudices

by Sara Fumagallo

DIRTY PINEAPPLE Specialized in denim patterns with “malicious details”, Dirty Pineapple is a street tailoring brand founded in 2018 by Nellie Yuan Yuan Wang. ‘I believe that clothes are one’s own means of expression and a peephole on this curious and stimulating world’, says the creative. Surfing the wave of eclecticism, maximalism and self-expression, the brand has indeed given birth to a fluid wardrobe of the most intimate layers, with clear references to hyper-pop culture, re-designing and re-contextualizing the most iconic garments. As a matter of fact, for the SS 24 the label chose to re-contextualize some “classic” products out of their stereotype, creating a perfect mix where dresses, shirts and polos are the protagonists, pleasantly balanced with jeans and tracksuits. Giving birth to a unique collection, mixing business and fun.

Instagram: dirtypineapple_dp dirtypineapple.net

PERMU A connection among the dress, the body and nature characterizes Permu’s dna: a contemporary menswear brand whose name derives from the abbreviation of “Permutation”. ‘We believe that the garment and the body have a close interaction and exchange. The relationship between the body and the dresses wrapping it can express different emotions and feelings. It’s another type of language for us’, states Heyun Pan, founder and creative director. For the brand, fashion is a concept to explore deeply and with careful attention for its nature is fast and in continuous evolution. For this reason, the company proposes innovative collections based on a tailoring tradition combined with custom craft elements. The result? A product of the finest taste, elegant and powerful, hoping to ‘create a minimalist and deconstructed world’. Qualities that can find their place in the new 2024 summer collection: Natural Skin.

Instagram: @permu_official permu.world

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R E T A I L

DIG ITAL

S T O R Y

TRADIT ION

A family story, filled with know-how and passion, that has never stopped evolving since 1894 and that today embraces the digital era and new technologies. But never forgetting its own stylistic identity. This is Eredi Chiarini

by Sara Fumagallo

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hat of Eredi Chiarini is a tale that started more than a century ago, in the far 1894, thanks to the idea of grandma Gennì who decided to open a charming fabric shop, interlacing a permanent relationship with the family tradition. A space that, with years passing, went under management of the daughter Norma with her husband Otello, and they both decided to turn it into a fabric emporium filled with history and love through generations, making it a reference point for its quality and guardian of the memories weaved over time. In 1970, Andrea and Marco Chiarini decided to close with the old family planning to open a contemporary menswear boutique in piazza Beccaria. After a period of consolidation and satisfying results, the family felt the need to open a new store.

So, in 1982, the Eredi Chiarini boutique opened in the center of Florence, in via Porta Rossa, while the year 1985 saw the fourth store opening in Florence. We talked about it with the owner Carlotta Chiarini, from the new generation, that with her entrance in 2009 has opened a fresh and dynamic chapter of the history of the boutique.

Can you briefly tell us the story of Eredi Chiarini? When and where was it born?

Everything started in 1984 with my father’s grandmother’s passion for fabrics, that over years has evolved from generation to generation. After her, in 1970 my father and my uncle decided to close with the old family setting, based on a classic management of a fabrics shop, and opened the first contemporary menswear store. In that time, there was a new way to wear, surfing the wave of the motto “latest fashion on young skin”. It consisted of an informal style that blended the classic principles of the English fashion with the American practicality and the typical Italian taste. Today, while staying true to our dna, we propose an accurate selection of garments with attention to quality and quite luxury. An ode to a timeless elegance.

What’s your mission and vision?

I’ve always liked menswear clothing, of course because I’ve been growing up with it, but also because I find the attention to details, materials and manufactures fascinating. In my family we get moved by the vision to create a world where menswear could

T E CH N I C AL

SH E ET

Boutique name: Eredi Chiarini Owner: Carlotta Chiarini Address: via Porta Rossa, 33/r Milano (50123) Square meters: 300 Website: eredichiarini.it Bestselling brands: Caruso, Jacob Cohën, Montecore, Rota, Slowear, Sonrisa and Tagliatore

An image of the inside of the Eredi Chiarini store

be a timeless expression of refinement and care. Our passion derives from the knowledge that the image of the gentleman is intrinsically linked to quality of materials and craftsmanship.

Our mission is to offer an accurate selection of clothes and accessories that embody an eternal yet contemporary elegance.

Constant research and commitment drive us in the proposal of a classical style which is filled with modernity, destined to those who prefer quality over the ephemeral trends. We address the man who embraces the good taste, who admires our dedication to professionalism and who finds in our style a shelter for authenticity.

How much is it important, today, to be present online?

I think the digital presence is not only relevant, but even fundamental to promote and communicate our identity and style philosophy. And that’s the reason we’re investing in a digital rebranding: we made up a dedicated team with the goal to share online our offline reality. Moreover, in our case, the digital presence is a perfect channel to keep in touch with our clients abroad, setting the foundations for a lasting relationship over time.

How would you describe the typical client of the boutique?

What are their characteristics?

Our typical client is a professional, probably because his father is or has been our client too. He doesn’t have that much time for himself but decides to spend the moments he has with his family and doing sports activities.

Future goals?

To continue what my father and my uncle started, never forgetting my grandfathers and grand grandfathers who built everything with mastery. I will strive to make it better without losing our dna.

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R E T A I L

WH E N

S T O R Y

COM PETENCE

M EETS

TA STE

An exclusive experience in terms of quality and consultation. Nino Álvarez is a magic dimension, a different concept store bringing innovation to the men’s fashion

N

by Maria Pina Ciuffreda

ot a simple store, but a place for research. Born in Barcelona in 1970, nowadays Nino Álvarez is internationally recognized, becoming the reference point for men’s fashion. A place where competence, attention to the client, experimentation, observation and innovation play a fundamental role in making a difference. And it’s this element of difference, recognized by aficionados and curious people, to spread the vision signed by the store towards unknown lands.

Today, in the four stores between Madrid and Barcelona, people can find the perfect look to suit their own style and needs. Indeed, to the historical space in Sant Cugat del Vallès in Santa Maria street 23, other stores were added in Muntaner street 339, Rambla Catalunya 63 and, in the capital, Lagasca street 63. We talked to Nino Álvarez, founder and owner of the Nino Álvarez store.

terior designer. Lastly, a new initiative in Madrid, more precisely in Lagasca street 63 in the exclusive neighborhood of Salamanca.

A space of 400 sq.m which, just like the others, concentrates on men’s fashion.

When and where was Nino Álvarez born?

Nino Álvarez debuted in the fashion world in 1970, with the opening of the first store in Santa Maria street 23 in Sant Cugat del Vallès, Barcelona. This is still active today and is exclusively focused on menswear. In 2003, with the entrance of the new generation, we decided to expand to other stores. In the same year, we inaugurated the second shop in Barcelona, precisely in Muntaner street 339. A little space of 50 sq.m, dedicated to menswear sales that, further on, has been enlarged to 800 m. Our great project started in October 2015, with the store of Rambla Catalunya 63: a historical location of circa 500 sq.m, divided on two levels, in the capital of Catalonia, where earlier before resided Colmado Quilez. A project conceived by Francesc Rifé, our in-

How much is it important, today, to be present online?

The digital world is evolving more and more and, as a consequence, online sales too. We understand that, nowadays, this is a service we must give to our customers. At the same time, we try to be different from the others, giving advice in our physical stores and an experience that our clients could never find on e-commerce. This is our strength and what we want to keep betting on. The online reality will exist forever and we believe that it should be accessible, but we work hard in the physical sale and when advising the clients.

What is your mission and vision?

Our mission is to wear the man who identifies with the style of the boutique, giving particular attention to quality. We give advice to our clients to obtain a contemporary and elegant look. We give shoes and accessories the importance they deserve, since they have a relevant role in distinguishing a man from the other and in defining his own style with the “Nino Álvarez” signature.

We try to anticipate trends and understand changes to serve our clients with a diverse offer.

How would you describe the typical client of the boutique?

What are their characteristics?

Nino Álvarez is an experience in terms of research and quality of the product. We turn to a client with strong interest in fashion and we strive for creating a look that’s different from the mass, in which our mark is easily recognizable.

Future goals?

In 2022 we opened our fourth store in Madrid, in the exclusive neighborhood of Salamanca, a very important project. Currently we want to promote this store but in future we cannot rule out another expansion in another city that we believe can give a different contribution. We hope that the market will accept our way of interpreting fashion.

TE C HN ICAL

Above: Nino Álvarez and Nacho Álvarez. Below: internal and external visual of the stores of Nino Álvarez in Barcelona and Madrid

S HEET

Boutique name: Nino Álvarez Owner: Nino Álvarez Address: via Muntaner 339, Barcellona (08021) Square meters: 800 Website: ninoalvarez.com Bestselling brands: Aspesi, Autry, C.P. Company, Fedeli, Golden Goose, Herno, Incotex Blue Division, Lardini, Montecore, Stone Island e Tagliatore

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B U T T O N - D O W N

BORN

IN

A

SHIRT

That of the iconic garment of all wardrobes is a market in constant evolution.

Leitmotiv in the decades of men’s fashion, between tradition and innovation

by Valeria Oneto

F

ormal and minimal, rigorously classic, or more eccentric, in denim or with Cuban collar. The shirt is going through a real evolution, following the trends of research and innovation: hi-tech fabrics, breathable, elastic, comfortable. Often responsible too. But also no ironing, perfect for those who travel a lot for work but must wear a rigorous look. The new generation of shirts is made of materials that revolutionized the way they are worn and managed and have made the lives of many men far easier. In recent seasons, a trend phenomenon is the over shirt, with a more comfortable and sporty fit. A response to the great return of knitwear, which can be found very often even in formal outfits under the jacket, and that took away space to the traditional shirt.

Looking at Italy’s export figures for 2022 by product category, there are positive double-digit dynamics. In detail, the shirt had an increase of +41.3%, followed by ties with a +32.7%, ready-made clothing and knitwear, which show respectively a +26.0% and a +21.6%, from Confindustria Moda source on ISTAT. We interviewed five of the most important companies in the industry. Here’s what they told us.

1 2

The shirt is an icon garment: how has the market changed over these last few years?

There was a great knitwear return, especially in last season’s menswear (turtleneck, cardigan but polo too). Did this trend influence your sales? If yes, how did you react?

Talking about shapes and fabrics, which are the most innovative and functional features today?

What’s the philosophy of the brand and how do you pass it on your garments in terms of style?

What’s your best seller?

3

4 5

1

The physiological evolution of the shirt in recent years points towards a search for performance in the experimentation of materials combining aesthetics and performance. Comfort, elasticity, breathability, lightness are fundamental elements in the choice of a garment today.

2

Yes, there was an actual asset change in the request. We answer on two sides: in the research of materials, expanding and developing the proposal of jersey shirts and in the optimization of the fit offer, also focusing on new proposals such as the over shirt, which is worn over the t-shirt and over the shirt itself.

3

The theme of comfort that translates into elasticity, breathability and ease of ironing, portability, always with attention to

What trends will be the protagonists of the next collections?

There’s been a lot of debate around sustainability: how much is it important to you?

And how are you moving in that direction?

Italian market vs international market: what’s their percentage respectively?

What are your distribution strategies? Are you headed towards new markets?

How did you close 2023 in terms of turnover? Any outlook for 2024?

9 10 11

in both the production and ethical segments by 2024.

4

9

5

PAOLO XOCCATO

Who’s your client?

style that can be sporty-chic, casual or extremely rigorous.

We are at the service of the consumer, we are a transversal company that manages to combine different souls and needs, with quality always at the first place.

We try to work on experience, tradition and innovation. We are always looking for products that can make us improve.

ceo XACUS

6 7 8

The active offer for sure, proposing a shirt that derives from the technical world, offering 360° performance but at the same time managing to maintain a perceived quality and an accurate fit.

6

Ours is a transversal customer who chooses our product for any occasion, from ceremonies to casual looks, while maintaining a high standard. It is a consumer attentive to quality and innovation, the needs that the market suggests and the current events.

7

Performance, innovation, quality and sustainability. Shirts have become more transversal garments in their use. One can pass from the classic to the contemporary, as it is the case with the over shirt.

8

Sustainability has become an essential topic for everyone doing business. We work on the product on various levels, the process, the fabric, even the packaging. Also at the company level we have embarked on a path that will lead us to obtain the most important certifications

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For us, the international market is always an expansion goal. At the moment, it accounts for 40% of the total revenue.

10

To strengthen the international market, increasing some areas of interest such as Northern Europe. Broadening our presence and increasing the positioning with the main international players.

11

We closed 2023 with a +15%. It’s difficult to outline a scenario for 2024, we always start with growing visions that we hope to maintain.

B U T T O N - D O W N

undoubtedly those with warm and soft hands where in addition to the classic cotton we can find mixtures of tencel and cashmere.

4

The brand is addressed to a contemporary man, who prefers a sporty but sophisticated style, looking for deconstructed garments, with a “washed” taste, to be used both in leisure time and in more formal situations as under jacket. This philosophy is reflected in the workmanship, fabrics and volumes.

GIOVANNI CATTINA

owner and ceo TINTORIA MATTEI (GIEMME BRANDSCORPORATE)

5

The collection has different souls and some of these are characteristic of the brand itself. Besides the exclusive prints and designs, you cannot miss the denim and dyed garment proposal.

1

6

2

7

In recent years the shirt, while remaining a fundamental garment in the male wardrobe, has suffered a bit from the growth of knitwear used as under jacket. The more formal shirts have made room for sportier ones, which is undoubtedly more in line with the new way of dressing the modern man.

As I just said, knitwear has surely stolen market share and has also affected our sales. Our strategy was to include in our Tintoria Mattei collection a new product category similar to the shirt world but with a different destination of use, the over shirts.

3

At the modeling level, we are abandoning the tight fit to make room for a more comfortable fit. For the autumn-winter season, the most interesting fabrics are

8

Of course sustainability is a topic we monitor very closely. We started our path to adjust the processes and logistic management in a more sustainable way, so as to reduce waste.

9

Our market is equally divided between foreign and Italian. As for the first, the most important markets are North America, where we have a distribution branch, and the Dach region.

10

Our goal is to strengthen our worldwide distribution. We added a new Japanese distributor and we believe that this market could give us great satisfaction.

Our retail customer is a mid-high-end client and our collection stands on the floor of Italian brands such as Tagliatore, Lardini, Fedeli, Pt Torino. As for the final consumer, he is an up-to-date man, with a sporty but refined taste.

The theme of our next collection is “Stars in your eyes”. An inspiration stolen from the world of design that sees at the center of the narrative the emblematic symbol of the star, making room for several special items in the collection such as embroidery and applications or jacquard in the fabric. In addition, we find a new and wider proposal of over shirts that become, in some models, deconstructed outerwear made of fabrics with warm hands and designs.

er than others, the market is vast and the catchment area too. We didn’t have a drop in sales.

3 4

Those who make the wearer at ease.

Our philosophy has been the same since 1979, composed of three words: quality, craftsmanship and authenticity.

5

In terms of number, I’d say certainly denim, in all shades of washings and models. But also washed linen and flannel, both monochromatic and patterned, for the winter collections.

6

An attentive person, out of the box, and who can think with their own mind.

7 8

Quality, craftsmanship, authenticity.

Sustainability is an important topic for us but it seems to me that it’s still very exploited. For what we can do, we try to avoid waste and to use the highest number of recycled raw materials as much as we can, but it’s still a long way to have a supply chain with lower environmental impact.

VINCENZO SANSONNE

creative director

GIANNETTO PORTOFINO

1

The market changes as the world does. 10 years ago, we would have never thought we could pay through a mobile phone or a watch. The world is constantly evolving and we are too, but there are iconic garments that remain, and the shirt is one of them.

9 10

We are talking about a ratio of 30 over 70.

The past years should have taught us that it’s better to focus on the present and enjoy what we have today.

2

There have always been different styles and different ways of interpreting fashion. For me, fashion has always been freedom of expression. Cyclically there are items that are trendi-

11

Turnover in 2023 was better compared to 2022, but let’s not forget that we came from “dark years”. We hope that 2024 will follow the trend of 2023.

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B U T T O N - D O W N

3

The spread of performance and technical fabrics (breathable, quick dry, no stretch and 3D stretch) is the novelty of the last seasons.

Compared to traditional non stretch fabrics, the silky hand that we managed to achieve with particular finishes and the freedom of movement that you can feel with the shirt on make this a winning garment and functional to today’s life.

Archivium was born on this new trend to become the future of the shirt.

4

RICCARDO BRACCHI

commercial director ARCHIVIUM (ALLEY DOCKS)

1

In the past, the shirt had an exclusively classic meaning. In the last 20 years, the printed and sporty shirt has become an integral part of our lives and we wear it with lightheartedness in every situation. In recent seasons a more formal conception of this garment is returning, but with innovative fabrics. Who, in 2023, wants to give up comfort? Who of my generation can iron a shirt?

2

The shirt is our strength, on which we spend a lot of study and commitment to every detail.

Surely it’s worn far more in the summer season since it can be used as a single item. In fashion, there are physiological trend cycles, but we are close to a change of taste in our favor.

The philosophy of our brand is “modern elegance”, a concept perfectly expressed in our collection in which the fabrics, weaves and designs typical of classic shirts are reinterpreted in a modern way with performing materials that combine elegance and practicality.

1

2

More than sales, the heavy return of under jacket knitwear has affected the type of product that we had to make to satisfy an increasingly demanding clientele and their search for comfort. Being a leader in the manufacture of 100% cotton jersey shirts has made our task easier, encouraging us in the search for materials and in the creation of innovative and easy-to-maintain models. We have developed a fabric in jersey piquet, a garment washed with a special exclusive “icy” treatment, created by our tailors and registered at the European Union Intellectual Property Office.

3

The fits of the shirts tend to soften and the materials are more and more innovative and comfortable, but always keeping in mind quality and exclusivity.

The topic of sustainability is central for our company. For this reason we are moving towards the use of recycled materials, especially for the packaging.

9

At the moment, the Italian market surely is the most relevant. We believe that our product could be a winner in any part of the world and we are working hard to expand in the international market.

10

Distribution-wise, we aim at covering each European State through competent agencies that could introduce our product in the right store, spreading the vision we have of the shirt.

11

As our first season, we are very satisfied with our sales, especially through the feedback coming from the market. Against any bad luck I won’t say anything regarding 2024.

The current outlooks seem encouraging and we’ll try not to set any limit.

6

Our client is the man wanting a modern and impeccable look, at the same time practical for his everyday life, divided into work and leisure.

chain. The identification number of the product is inserted inside each garment and you can view the entire route with a QR Code.

10

The interlock jersey fabric, designed, conceived and printed exclusively for us, remains our flagship product. Thanks not only to the exclusivity, but especially to the comfort that the shirt gives once worn.

For years, we have been working to consolidate the relationship with our partners because, having no other distribution channels other than the shop windows of the boutiques that represent us, our success passes through theirs. We aim at increasingly improving a b2b service addressed to the boutiques sharing a common project with us. We are certainly interested in opening up new markets.

We also aim at strengthening our presence in the markets we are already in, where we want to become leaders in the industry.

6

11

5 In the last few years, the main change has been the use of materials, increasingly more comfortable and easily maintainable, without renouncing to high-quality products.

8

Our best seller is the shirt printed on technical fabric with linen texture. I want to emphasize that all the items in the collection are made of different 4-way stretch technical fabrics.

For 50 years, the philosophy of our company has always been to make garments of the highest quality, from raw materials to the smallest details of packaging, always passing under the magnifying glass of expert shirts that pack exclusive and certified garments everyday.

We believe that, in an often confused market, it is right to ensure that every single item is a gesture of transparency towards our customers.

For us, style is a corporate philosophy.

LUIGI VALOTTI

The trend of recent seasons sees a great return to the formal dress and shirt, garments that, after many seasons of streetwear, are coming back to the catwalk as fundamentals of the male wardrobe. The shirt will be the real protagonist already by the SS 24.

5

4

ceo SONRISA (GRUPPO VEV)

7

Our client is a dynamic man, a businessman who needs refined and comfortable clothes and who, even in his free time, cannot renounce a valued shirt.

7

Surely a lot of comfort and research of high-quality fabrics, with unique characteristics. For the winter season we worked on a particular fabric: cashmere cotton, with a wonderful touch. The wearer will have the pleasant feeling of cotton on the skin and the warmth of cashmere that surrounds it.

8

It has always been an important topic for us. For 50 years, the company has been investing in the minimization of pollution sources. And recently we have tried to use eco-sustainable raw materials. For three years we have been producing and selling the Sonrisa Ethico product, a shirt made using American supima cotton, grown with low environmental impact and respecting the canons of eco-sustainability. This process is controlled and certified by a dedicated body along the entire production

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The turnover in 2023 will exceed 14 million euros, marking a 20% growth compared to 2022, while the foreign percentage is around 30%.

A N A LY T I C

THE NEW IDEA OF SHOPPING IS NOT ONLINE The so longed buying experience in the physical store is strongly coming back to fashion.

Both in the most cool and deluxe city streets and in department stores

by Angelo Ruggeri

The homepage of the e-commerce platform farfetch.com

T

he direction is a bit clearer: offline instead of online. At least in terms of shopping. Because the so longed buying experience you get in the physical store is hard to be reproduced digitally. Everyone – literally everyone – had tried to speed up with the online part: from brands to shops, from the Covid pandemics until today. But in this historical moment consumers don’t have any doubt, they want to go back to the street shop. Or to the most exclusive department stores. Or to the shopping malls in the outskirts. Where sales assistants can help them in the best ways, where they can immediately try garments and accessories they want to buy, where they can sip a good glass of wine while they buy the new seasonal it-bag. This is confirmed by recent numbers. For instance Farfetch, the e-commerce platform founded by José Neves, has not shared the financial results of the last quarter, the third of the fiscal year, and hasn’t had the related conference call with the analysts. This decision has come to testify the momentum of clear difficulty for the e-atelier that, based on its quotation on Nyse in 2018, has seen a plunge in its own capitalization of the initial 7 billion dollars (circa 6,4 billion euros) and of the peak 26 billion reached in 2021 to 740 million. Shares plummeted by circa 92% over the last five years, with a decline by 73.5% only in the last 12 months and by 52% only in 2023. On the other hand, the recovery of stores is keeping pace. Italian shopping centers, as reported by the study carried out by Cncc-Consiglio nazionale dei centri commerciali (National board of shopping malls) together with EY-Ernst & Young, closed the first nine months of the year with a +3.7% in sales growth and +2.3% if compared to the pre-Covid period. A positive result, although affect-

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A N A LY T I C

Above: the new Chanel flagship.

On the right, the new Gucci store.

Both in via Monte Napoleone in Milan.

ed by a slower third quarter, in which sales were rather flatter compared to 2019 but in small decline by 1.5% if compared to last year’s, caused by the clothing sector’s trends. As a matter of fact, the industry has suffered from a quite hot weather which inevitably led to a decrease in the quarter’s sales (-0.8%), however marking a positive result over nine months (+3.7%). Digging deeper, such sales recovery in department stores, as much as the entrance increase by 6.7% over nine months compared to 2022, has been driven by two industries in particular: food service and cinema. The first hit a positive change of 8.4% in three months and the second scored a performance of +124% with Italians going to the cinemas again.

Another confirmation of the more than positive trend of department stores and its worth if looking at the future comes from America. A group of investors composed by Akrhouse Management and Bridage Capital has unfolded a sum of 5.8 million dollars to take over Macy’s, the historical and famous American department store, to turn it into a private company. Arkhouse Management, an investment company focused on real estate, and Brigade Capital Management, global asset manager, submitted a proposal to acquire Macy’s shares they don’t already own for 21 dollars per share and to proceed with the del-

isting. The experience of the physical store has indeed come back to fashion. Both in department stores and in flagship shops in shopping streets. A trend confirmed by the boom of new openings in via Monte Napoleone in Milan. Some unmistakable examples? The new Chanel’s giga-store (very close to the first Milanese shop of the double C griffe) and the just renovated Gucci store, with the new super minimal design as instructed by the creative director Sabato De Sarno. But that’s not all: for the beginning of 2024 (generally at the same time of the Fashion Week in February) new sparkling openings are in plan and precisely in the Quadrilatero della Moda.

Talking about emotional shopping experience…

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+++

23 LT

P R OT E C T I V E RUBBER CORNERS

15,6” PC COM PA RTM ENT

Saverio is:

Producer

Trail Runner

M A R K E T

ITALIAN FASHION GROWS IN 2023 The fashion industry turnover grows by 4%, equaling 103 billion euros, but the quantity of garments produced has declined.

The 20% of the turnover is represented by men’s clothing and accessories collections di Valeria Oneto

T

he closing forecasts of the Italian fashion industry for the year 2023 show a 4% growth in turnover, for a total of about 103 billion euros. 20% of clothing and accessories turnover of 11 billion is represented by menswear, up by 5% compared to last year. These are the data disclosed during the press conference to present the Milano Fashion Week Uomo, to be held from 12 to 16 January. After a brilliant first quarter and the mid-year slowdown, September experienced a sharp setback in the turnover of the Italian fashion industry (-7.2% compared to September 2022), mainly focused on the textile and leather sectors while softer in beauty and jewelry. The negative result of September dragged down the entire third quarter (-1%). Overall, during the first nine months of 2023 sales remained up 5% compared to the same period of 2022. In the third quarter, price cooling emphasized the setback. In the first half of the year, the growth of industrial prices in textile and leather fairs was still sustained by the increase in energy and raw material prices, hitting 8% in the first quarter and 7% in the second, compared to the same periods of the previous year. In September, however, it stopped at 3.8%. The October figure saw a new decline to 2.7% and the quantities produced, measured in number of garments, marked a negative trend too that had already been seen in 2019, the

pre-Covid year, and that the recovery of 2021, 2022 and early 2023 had obscured. In Italy, in retail, the price dynamics of fashion products remained stable at 3% and below general inflation throughout 2023, until August. Since September it has further cooled down to the +2.2% of November. In September and October there was a decrease in sales of clothing (respectively -4.7% and -5%) and footwear (-3.4% and -3%), with a growth in beauty (+3.1% in October) and stability for jewelry.

Sources: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (National Chamber of Italian Fashion), Fashion Economic Trends

“IT’S NOT YEARS OF CRAZY GROWTH, BUT RIGHT NOW IT’S IMPORTANT TO KEEP, AND WE’LL KEEP. OBVIOUSLY, THERE IS SOME FEAR BECAUSE WE HAVE TWO WARS GOING ON AND THE REAL ESTATE CRISIS IN CHINA, INFLATION SO HIGH THAT IT PENALIZES US ON THE AMERICAN MARKET. BUT CONSIDERING THE CIRCUMSTANCES IT SEEMS TO US THAT THE HIGH-QUALITY FASHION, THAT IS THE ITALIAN ONE, IS HOLDING UP VERY WELL AND EXPECTATIONS ARE GOOD ALSO FOR 2024” CARLO CAPASA, PRESIDENT OF THE NATIONAL CHAMBER OF THE ITALIAN FASHION

Two shots of the SS 24 collection by Lardini and Brioni women

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Z O O M

TELLIN G THEIR OWN STORY Exclusive yarns, selected and handwoven with that kind of attention that only comes with experience, that is the fuel of Kangra’s unprecedented quality

A

kind of quality, Kangra’s quality, extending to collaborations and understandings, giving work and products an added value, a human value, essential to make a difference.

A production exclusively realized in Italy, through the hands of little artisans expressing the best there is in technique and knowledge.

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Z O O M

Some images of Kangra’s menswear collection (@kangra_official)

Between technique and passion The collections stand out both for the accurate selection of the yarns and their treatment, meticulous to the last detail. Among the classics, the brand proposes a capsule of clothes in 100% silk that donates an unprecedented sensation of wellness. For the elegant and refined man who gets transported by the softness of the yarns: precious cottons, two-toned jacquards and perforated ribs, that do not overlook technique and functionality. As a matter of fact, the influential characteristic of these thick fibers is the skin’s breathability, easing the proliferation of bacteria. The contemporary client, with an informal yet classy appearance, can also count on an offer made of blazers, bomber jackets and sweaters. And the last protagonist, the jersey, is declined in different typologies: piquet, cotton and crêpe, slub cotton, linen and nylon.

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I N S I D E

S H O W R O O M

ONE THING LEADS TO ANOTHER Aretè Showroom is a dynamic location where a strong passion for culture, history and art can find its space, with the goal of promoting craftsmanship through clothes conceived for those who can recognize their value

by Sara Fumagallo

I

distribute throughout Europe. As of today, nside a space of 800 sq.m a reality comes which markets have the best performance? alive, something that since 2008 has always aimed at selling and distributing The Italian market is undoubtedly keepJapanese brands, and more, all over Euing its importance, but Aretè has always rope. As a matter of fact, it’s been a few years had an eye abroad. Especially in markets since the brand has opted for a more dynamic such as Europe and Asia, with special atplanning in constant evolution, broadening tention to Japan. the product portfolio and combining both Italian and European projects. We’re talking about Until a few years ago, the showroom had a Gianluca Grilanda, owner Aretè Showroom, a location with a strong artispecial Japanese imprint. Why this choice? of Aretè Showroom sanal imprint which has been working as a talent Are you planning on adding other brands scout for many years now, promoting values such as atten- following this trend in the future? tion to detail and high-quality standards. Characteristics Initially it had a Japanese mark, but over the years we broadthat imply an orientation towards the high-end segment ened our brand portfolio to Italian and European projects. with a niche and selected clientele. “Transmitting real emotions”: this is the mission promoted by Aretè. And it actu- What makes you different from your competitors? ally manages, choosing labels that prefer manufacturing We are a showroom of niche brands, with a specific target adthe garment in the country of origin, distancing from mass dressed to the international market but at the same time we distribution. And proposing ad-hoc products for customers, give great value to made in Italy projects. where quality is in first place. We had a conversation about The reality is playing the role of “talent scout”. Which charit with Gianluca Grilanda, owner of the showroom. acteristics do you look for in brands?

What is the mission and vision of Aretè Showroom?

Quality, a story to tell and verticalization in the project.

Our mission is to plan and organize the distribution creating an ad-hoc commercial network for each single brand, inside a How has the sales campaign for the SS 24 gone? Any outlook dynamic space at the service of future developments for a cre- for the FW 24/25? ative, strategic and commercial world.

Despite a very complicated period for our market, luckily we weren’t affected by this great fall in consumptions. We are Since its birth in 2008, the company has decided to sell and confident in a good FW 24/25 sales campaign.

Some photos of the location

TEC HN ICAL

S HEET

Name: Aretè Showroom Address: via Seneca, 4 Milan (20135) Owner: Gianluca Grilanda Square meters: 800 Website: areteshowroom.com

CLIEN TS

Man & Woman: Akman, Atomo Factory, College, Fermas Club, Goes Botanical, Hēvo, Hnst, Pèro, WStudio Man: A Little Known Brand, Gams Note, Limitato, Reveres Woman: Damy, Facon Jacmin, Frankies Bikinis, Nineminutes, Sharay, True Avenue

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Z O O M

UN CON DITION AL

LOVE

A contemporary and sophisticated taste, the result of the synergy between passion and research; these are the fundamental pillars for Lorenzoni.

For the attentive public who loves to stand out

L

orenzoni is a solid entrepreneurial reality rooted in the work and experience of Egidio Lorenzoni and his wife Liliana, acquired in 50 years of activity in the Maglificio Liliana.

With the generational shift, represented by the entrance of their children Andrea, Elisa and Monica, the company gets into a new dimension and high production standards, which in 2018 encourages the family to create the Lorenzoni brand, which is nowadays the reference point for the Italian menswear fashion in the world. Style, good taste and irony are the ideal features of the client of the brand, pleasing his most pretentious needs through knitted garments characterized by rich manufacturing and special treatments, expressing its know-how.

An ambitious project A production complexity translated in a capsule made of multicolor juxtapositions, a combination of pure and soft shades, with tones of ecru wool in contrast with black, gray or natural beige and tridimensional processes. A project enhanced by a specialized staff and electronic machines of the latest generation. A production model betting on quality and not quantity, because the Lorenzoni man, other than appreciating the artisanal savoir-faire, cherishes the environmental wellness, in favor of a lasting and timeless garment. A responsible modus operandi, endorsing lower consumption of raw materials, energetic resources and water.

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Z O O M

Some photos of Lorenzoni’s capsule collection

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F O C U S

STRON GER

O N

THAN

STONES

Saxifraga literally means “stonebreaker” and that’s the name of the new capsule collection by Dolomite.

A proposal in which the brand explores new aesthetic and communication codes to live the outdoor life at 360 degrees

T

he name of the new Dolomite collection, available on the website and by the European dealers starting March 2024, points at remembering that beauty is stronger than stones themselves. As a matter of fact, Saxifraga means “stonebreaker” and is an herbaceous plant blooming in the rocks of the Alps, bearing witness of nature’s resilience. And its delicate petals dance with the winds of the mountain, whispering stories of force and grace. For its new offer, the brand explores original aesthetic and communication codes to fully live the outdoors, always maintaining the maximum attention on research, quality and productive and technical solutions. A set of characteristics made possible thanks to the collaborations with the Design Temp Studio and Rayon Vert studios.

Delle immagini della prima collezione spring-summer 2024 di Jeanne Baret

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F O C U S

O N

From Dawn ‘till Dusk Dualism is the key to interpreting this project. “From Dawn till Dusk” is the theme of the storytelling where “Dawn”, as the day starts, is represented by light and warm tones (ranging from ivory to beige, with splashes from the original Saxifraga red) and “Dusk”, with the day ending, sees emerald green, musk and brown as protagonists, always matched with a shade of red. Characterizing both themes are two drirelease organic cotton t-shirts, a 3-layer jacket (made in big ripstop waterproof), 4-way stretch shorts with pockets evoking the theme of the big ripstop and technical socks with anatomical shape. Lastly, the Saxifraga GTX shoes with Vibram outsole with Traction Lug Technology and Gore-Tex Invisible Fit membrane are conceived for fast-hiking activities, but can also be very versatile and suitable to urban contexts. Maintaining the essential technicality of a performance shoe, without compromising their contemporary look.

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Some shots of the new Dolomite “Saxifraga” collection composed of: two t-shirts, a 3-layer jacket, 4-way stretch shorts, thermal socks and shoes with Vibram outsole and Gore-Tex membrane.

F O C U S

O N

OUTDOOR IN THE CITY To celebrate the past, present and future of the mountains, inspired by alpine culture, Rossignol presents the “1907” models: a sophisticated collection turned technical thanks to the HDry membrane

M

ountains are multifaceted and diverse. They represent the maximum expression of freedom and it’s in the very outdoor world that Rossignol is rooted, finding inspiration and competence since 1907. Hence the birth of the “1907” collection, an invitation to discover, share and explore the pleasures of the mountain: a precious choice of materials and finishings combined with technique and versatility. It was conceived and realized by the French brand’s creation and design team in Montebelluna to elegantly suit the never-ending movements over different scenarios.

Technicality in the first place Elegance, comfort and technicality are the keywords of these boots that Rossignol obtained through a series of technologies and special materials. First of all, the waterproof and breathable HDry membrane that, when directly applied to the upper, prevents the water from entering the shoe. To complete the protection from snow and ice, the highly warm lining and the sole offering secure grip both on snowy paths and icy pavements. The side zipper allows a better fit and its details in blue, white and red recall the brand’s alpine tradition.

The luxury footwear turns waterproof Designed in Italy but increasingly spread all over the world, HDry is a waterproof and breathable technology whose uniqueness resides in the patented project of “3D Direct Lamination” application. It consists in a micro-dot bonding of the membrane on the internal surface of the upper, made when this has already been assembled and sewed, with hooks and applied zippers. Used by great outdoor brands such as SCARPA, Dynafit and Canada Goose, this technology is now fascinating the luxury world too.

One of the labels that has recently adopted this technique is in fact Rossignol in the “Bottines” models - nine for men and six for women - of the flagship line “1907”.

“IT IS NO SURPRISE THAT THE HDRY TECHNOLOGY IS NOW APPRECIATED FOR PRODUCTS IN WHICH THE STYLISTIC RESEARCH IS PRIORITY. BESIDES GUARANTEEING A VERY HIGH PERFORMANCE IN TERMS OF WATERPROOF RESISTANCE AND BREATHABILITY, THANKS TO THE PATENTED PROCESS OF 3D LAMINATION, HDRY HAS A FAR MORE SOPHISTICATED APPROACH WHEN CONSIDERING CONSTRUCTION, AND THIS ALLOWS NOT TO INTERFERE WITH THE DESIGN OF THE PRODUCT” MATTEO MORLACCHI, CEO HDRY

Some images of Rossignol’s Chamonix 1907 model with waterproof/breathable HDry technology

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Z O O M

TO

TRU E T HE ORIGIN S

A 50-years know-how illustrated by the new FW 24/25 proposal of Ciesse Piumini: Heritage. A bridge between past and future blending outdoor and contemporary styles

S

ince 1976, Ciesse Piumini combines its sporty souls and innovative spirit to create products that can find the right balance among innovation, quality and sustainability. These are the premises giving birth to Heritage, the new winter collection aiming at reinterpreting the actual history of the brand in terms of fabrics, volumes and shades of color with a 100% green vision. As a matter of fact, the materials, paddings and details (zippers, pullers, labels and tags) are completely recycled. An offer narrating its most authentic dna with a modern and contemporary twist, linked to the mountains and the spirit of adventure through seven new models: the “Louisiana” long vest, the “Nevada” bomber crop, the “Montana” and “Arizona” parkas in Polycotton Micro Ripstop (recycled for him and padded for her), and the now genderless three iconic clothes from the ‘80s “Dakota”, “Alaska” and “Canada”. These are padded with real and regenerated goose down and are made with recycled nylon cotton hand with the historical and vibrant colors from the archives, ranging from orange, pink and light blue.

Moreover, they include ample sectors, multi-functional pockets, detachable sleeves, vintage-looking contrasting drawstring and jacquard logo tag inspired by the original.

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Z O O M

Clockwise from the left: the unisex Alaska jackets (4 pockets with recycled feather and detachable hood), the unisex Dakota puffy down jacket in the blue colorway, the Canada long down jackets in the black and beige shades and the Montana padded parka in Polycotton Micro Ripstop fabric

RECYCLED DOWN

One of the most relevant commitments for Ciesse Piumini revolves around sustainability. For the FW 24/25, the brand is proposing a series of garments reflecting the high environmental standards thanks to the use of real and regenerated goose down inside its jackets. Meaning that, through a series of production processes that may be repeated forever as well, the goose down gets regenerated and therefore brought back to its original state, ready to be used for a new jacket. Once collected, the waste feathers get dedusted, washed, sterilized and selected to meet the high standards of the company.

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I N T E R V I E W

SELECTED WITH CARE Handpicked remains faithful to values such as quality and tailoring made in Italy, where the classical elements of the luxury denim intertwine with more contemporary and innovative features. And launches the women’s collection

by Valeria Oneto

A

Who is the Handpicked woman?

Our woman is ideally cultured and informed, can appreciate unique things, doesn’t compromise on quality and aims at the best for each choice.

bond between classic elegance and contemporary innovation. The FW 24/25 collection by Handpicked is the perfect synthesis among aesthetics, taste and tailoring. Attention to details, selection of precious materials and high-quality fabrics, denim shades, types of washings and finishings. These are the pieces of a puzzle that make this brand’s garments unique. Other than menswear, one of the most awaited news to be unveiled during next Pitti 105 is the women’s collection, a capsule of which had already been presented earlier in the summer season. It was precisely in relation to this debut that we asked a few questions to the ceo of Handpicked, Franco Catania.

In Pitti 105 the first real women’s collection of Handpicked will debut. What brought you towards this choice?

This was the constant request from our clients and partners and the reason that encouraged us to create the women’s collection.

But also, the constant desire to grow and express our savoir-faire in the denim style pushed us towards womenswear.

What characteristics will women’s trousers have?

We will offer what’s most actual in terms of fit, comfort and materials. Paying tribute to the best tradition of made in Italy.

Will there be any news in the FW 24/25 men’s collection?

Like in every season, we will present the latest trends: innovative treatments and materials, with various new models. For the winter season, there will surely be velvets with silky and brilliant touch, appreciated all over the world, accompanied by a new capsule with a manufacture that will make it even more particular and unique in the shades of color. We aim at offering an even broader choice for a complete fashion experience, beyond the five-pockets. In this direction, and always during the Florentine kermesse, we will launch a new sneakers’ collection, with contemporary and refined design.

What are the future projects of the brand?

With the FW 24/25 we aim at consolidating what we’ve already done over the last seasons in the old continent, and we will turn our attention to new markets, particularly the American, where there will be a dedicated capsule.

Some images of the FW 24/25 menswear collection by Handpicked

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Suola realizzata riciclando palline da tennis e padel esauste.

Tomaia ricavata dagli scarti organici della lavorazione delle mele.

Lotto Sport Italia Pitti Immagine Uomo - Firenze, 09-12 gennaio 2024 Padiglione Cavaniglia, Stand 10

T R A D E

A RENEWED OPTIMISM In 2023, the consumer has rediscovered the taste of physically going back to the store.

And the shops are living a momentum of (slow) recovery

by Benedetta Zanni

B

etween lights and shadows, the year 2023 closes in positive. ‘November sales were down 5.6%, compared to the same month in 2022, in which 52% of fashion stores registered a positive trend (30%) or stable (22%) and the 48% a negative trend’, this emerged from the analysis of the Confcommercio Studies Office. Those who are struggling more are mainly local shops, as they have more difficulty getting out of the crisis of consumption linked to the clothing sector, aggravated by the effects of inflation on mandatory expenses. Moreover, data from Unioncamere and InfoCamere show a drop of over 9 thousand stores between 2019 and 2023, where the strongest impact fell on individual firms and less structured companies. This will determine a necessary change in the relationships with suppliers in innovative and collaborative terms. A climate that, however, seems to have changed over December. In fact, it is noted that the fashion industry (clothing, footwear, leather goods, accessories, home textiles and sports goods) was confirmed at the top ranking of the most desired gifts.

And yet, there is a greater desire in the consumer to ‘leave a difficult year behind’, says Giulio Felloni, chairman of the Federazione Moda Italia-Confcommercio. ‘Perhaps this time will make the consumers more confident through the effects of the cut in the tax and contribution wedge, the increase of the thirteenth, lower

inflation and lower costs of energy goods, as well as employment growth’, he concludes. A renewed optimism, therefore, that could lead to a restart of consumption and give new energy to the local shops ‘struggling with an autumn/winter season which has not taken off yet’.

Source: Federazione Moda Italia

“TO SUPPORT THE PRESENCE OF STORES IN OUR URBAN FABRIC IT’S IMPORTANT THAT THE GOVERNMENT GOES BEYOND THE CUT OF THE TAX WEDGE, INTRODUCING A PREFERENTIAL VAT ON FASHION PRODUCTS AND IN PARTICULAR ON THE MADE IN ITALY ONES, A FASHION BONUS FOR THE PURCHASE OF ECO-SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND A COMMERCIAL LEASE AGREED BETWEEN LANDLORDS AND TENANTS TO REDUCE THE BURDEN OF RENT” IULIO FELLONI, CHAIRMAN OF FEDERAZIONE MODA ITALIA-CONFCOMMERCIO

SALES TREND YEAR 2023 VS 2023 – IN WORTH January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

8,9%

5,3%

8,7%

-3,5%

-2,9%

-5,7%

-2,5%

-1,7%

-6,0%

-15,0%

-5,6%

NUMBER OF FASHION SALES POINT Active companies and local units 30.000 25.000

25.305

20.722

20.000 17.144

15.000 10.000

15.292 12.795

12.304 12.079

11.737 9.873 6.523

5.000

4.504

4.443

4.440

3.018

2.854

2.704

1.745

919

435

La zi o Si ci lia Ve ne to Pu gl ia To Em sc ili an aa Ro m ag na Pi em on te Ca la br ia Li gu ria Ab ru zz o Sa rd eg na Tr en M tin ar ch oFr Al e iu to liAd Ve ig ne e zi aG iu lia Um br ia Ba si lic at a M o Va lis e lle d’ Ao st a

Ca m pa ni Lo a m ba rd ia

0

5.374

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Z O O M

REVE RSIN G THE SC HEMES A double-face and tech garment still keeping its artisanal imprint. This is the Arovescio product, presenting the high comfort “Seamless wholegarment” technology for the new FW 24/25

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onceived for a dynamic, informal and practical use, the Arovescio t-shirt is a made in Italy product with high fashion content, created for the client who’s increasingly attentive to quality. A garment of the latest generation, hi-tech yet artisanal with no seams. Comfort, unique style and versatility in respect of the environment are the main characteristics of the Arovescio proposals, where artisanal treatments and dyes make each t-shirt a one of a kind. ‘While thinking about our collections we considered the profound

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Z O O M

Some images of the Arovescio winter collection 24/25 with Seamless wholegarment technology

meaning of the term “wear”: put something on, create an ideal contact with one’s own skin. To this, we add the ability to reverse the schemes, having a double-face garment that can suit our moods and style, always leaving two choices on how to wear it’, as stated by the company note.

For the next fall-winter 2024, the label is presenting clothes realized with Seamless wholegarment technology, characterized by highcomfort, natural materials, research and innovation through a 100% Italian supply chain. Here, the protagonists are precious wool and cashmere and the softest baby alpaca, for him and for her.

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F R O M

F A S H I O N

NEW ARRIVALS AND NEW DEPARTURES

From Walter Chiapponi in Blumarine to Sarah Burton saying goodbye to Alexander McQueen (and Seán McGirr taking her place), moving to Matteo Tamburini becoming the new creative director of Tod’s. The fashion waltz has started

by Angelo Ruggeri

S

omeone goes and, most of all, someone comes.

Or, more simply, changes their style department.

One can never keep calm in the “wonderful world of international fashion”. Especially in this period of the year. A few examples? Let’s start with Matthew Williams, who has recently said goodbye to Givenchy. After three years and a half since his appointment, the creative has stepped down from the historical mansion controlled by the LVMH Group. The exit comes effective on January 1st, 2024. Who will be taking his place? According to rumors, the appointee may be Simon Porte Jacquemus, loved by all fashion victims and not just them. The new creative director of Tod’s has been chosen too, Matteo Tamburini. Born in Urbino in 1982, he studied fashion and design and entered the fashion world at the beginning of the 2000s, working for some of the most important luxury brands. The last experience was in Bottega Veneta, where he worked from 2017 until today. ‘He’s a talented creative’, explained Diego Della Valle, president and ceo of Tod’s Group. ‘His modern vision of the high-quality and Italian lifestyle will surely bring added value to our brand. The designer will coordinate a style department made by experienced people with great sensitivity for everything luxury-wise’. After the creative direction in Tod’s (precisely before Tamburini), Walter Chiapponi arrived to the style office of Blumarine.

Milanese, graduated in the European Design Institute, he debuted in the fashion industry at the end of the 90s by

Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Later, he collaborated with some of the most relevant brands in the sector, among which Givenchy, Valentino, Gucci, Miu Miu until Bottega Veneta together with Tomas Maier. Sarah Burton has instead bid farewell to the Alexander McQueen maison, in tears (hers) and the goodbye hugs of the Vogue US editor Anna Wintour. But in her place, the young Seán McGirr was appointed fairly quickly. An Irish born in Dublin, he graduated in the Central Saint Martins in London in a Master of Arts in Fashion in 2014 and his past is mostly in menswear. His most prestigious work experience?

Responsible for JW Anderson’s ready-to-wear, another successful English brand, starting from 2020. He began with menswear to then pass to women’s lines too. Who isn’t afraid of losing his job – at least for the next five years – is Nicolas Ghesquière, womenswear creative director for Louis Vuitton. As a matter of fact, the French maison has renewed the contract period in which the stylist was celebrating his tenth anniversary as artistic director of the LV griffe. Let’s then conclude with some juicy leaks.

According to the industry rumors, the creative director of the accessories section of Bulgari will be appointed very soon, a jewelry maison which is part of the LVMH Group.

Could it be Alessandro Michele, creative star from Rome, just like the griffe is? This “hot news” comes with a possible farewell: it seems like an Italian tailoring brand is preparing to sack its own creative director. The cause?

Character incompatibility. Or at least, so they say.

From the left: the new creative director of Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini, Simon Porte Jacquemus and the new creative director of Alexander McQueen, Seán McGirr

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PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO PADIGLIONE LORENESI Piano Terra - SPAZIO 2

heskimo.it

L I M I T E D

E D I T I O N

CONTEMPORARY SYNTHESIS An always exclusive style which suits unpredictability and the idea of comfort typical of our everyday life.

Bomboogie gives birth to structured clothes with a sporty soul

T

he icon brand of the Turin company Space 2000, Bomboogie, property of the Musso family, is an expression of speed and determination. Features with which to meet its ambitious goals. A combination of textures that balance a polished, elegant and urban look typical of its clothes. An always exclusive style and easily interpretable, allowing a functional and transversal fit to create outfits free from any stylistic code, that can perfectly adjust to day-to-day needs. An innovative spirit to be found in the dna itself, and perfect to suit the necessities of the modern man.

“Easy to wear” Advanced lines, precise accents, functional details, multifaceted shapes, besides the most affirmed, updated models that can fit performance weavings. “Synthesized modernism” is a stylistic project where functionality and glamour coexist. The top model of the collection is the feather-proof, windproof and water-repellent parka. With regular fit, the model presents a double hood in nylon microripstop, central zipper closure and double slider, topped by a box pleat with exposed snaps. The down jacket, in high density fabric with detachable sleeves and tuckaway hood, also comes in another model equipped with shoulder-length internal straps and contrast or tone on tone hood. A vibrant palette inspired by the undergrowth with splashes of the typical shades of the autumn sun, whose rays reflect the greens and browns of the leaves.

Above, some images of the fall-winter 2024 collection by Bomboogie

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PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO PADIGLIONE LORENESI Piano Terra - SPAZIO 2

claq.it

P R E V I E W

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TO FEEL WELL Keeping in mind its four fundamental pillars (comfort, quality, uniqueness and accessibility) Satorisan is ready to present the new winter proposal for 2024: coherent, diverse and of the highest quality

N

atural and high-quality materials designed to last over time and create an emotional bond with the wearer.

These have always been the main characteristics outlining Satorisan’s collections. And, for the FW 24/25, the brand continues in the pursuit of its ideals and philosophy, making the Chacrona line look younger with fresh and special materials, broadening the Unalome Woman family with two new lines and introducing an original construction of the Unalome Man with three models: Chelsea Boot, Ziplacer Boot and Wallaby. Among the many, introducing the new “Gold” classified premium leathers, the extra-large velvet laces with vintage finishing for her and in thick chenille for him.

T EC H N I C AL • • • • • •

Living the winter season with the new Unalome Men proposal The winter proposal for 2024 comprehends classic and functional shoes and boots, made with high-quality materials and designed to last over time. These stand out for the comfort of the outsole composed by two different elements combined through pressure and temperature, forming a block that is solid, sturdy, flexible and light at the same time. The tread design is inspired by the classic trekking shoes and its pattern was valued by IBV to ensure maximum grip even in the most extreme conditions. Moreover, the inside of the boots presents a semi-anatomical insole made of EVA and of 7/5 mm width, high quality and removable, adding more cushioning and better comfort when walking.

SH E ET

Fine leather from C.F. Stead tannery based in Leeds, England Lining in 100% biological cotton GOTS certified Technically developed with IBV Resistant and lasting product Extra comfortable, cool and fashionable Recycled packaging FSC certified

Acuni capi della collezione Second Skin di Diktat che comprendono, oltre alla maglieria, anche giubbotti e pantaloni

“THE UNALOME IS A BUDDHIST SYMBOL REPRESENTING THE PATH WE UNDERTAKE IN LIFE. IT SHOWS OUR JOURNEY, GRAPHICALLY REPRESENTING THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISIONS THAT HAVE BEEN TAKEN AND THEIR CONSEQUENCES. FOLLOWING OUR PATH WITH AWARENESS MAKES US CREATE PRODUCTS WHICH ARE PRACTICAL, LASTING AND COMFORTABLE, BASED ON THE CULTURE OF CARE. THAT CAN MAKE US FEEL PROTECTED WITH THE AIM OF HAVING A POSITIVE IMPACT ON THE MOOD OF OUR CLIENTS” ALEJANDRO MONZO, CEO AND FOUNDER SATORISAN

Above: the Unalome Men Chelsea Boot Desert Oasis. On the left: the Chacrona Metta Premium Black Bodegón. On the right: the Unalome Hike Suede Faded Chestnut

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CANADIANCLASSICS.IT

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MORE THAN JUST A SHOE Ellesse is one of the most iconic fashion brands connected to the sports world and in 2024 the company will reach an important goal: blow 65 candles and celebrate with a new shoe, the LSR

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Some images of the his is not the story of a simple brand, but of an icon that the foundEllesse’s LSR shoes and er Leonardo Servardio has managed to bring up in the world of their manufacturing the sports fashion industry, celebrating the values and the Italian design. Characteristics which were made possible thanks to its passion for craftsmanship and the attention to details.

Ellesse, distributed by and “WE ARE LUCKY TO HAVE AN ARCHIVE FULL licensed to Nice Footwear Spa, is one of the most faOF BEAUTIFUL STORIES OF UNDENIABLE mous brands internationally LEGACY. THE STARTING POINT OF THIS and can enter the new year PROJECT WAS INSPIRED BY THE SILHOUETTE with a great achievement.

OF THE PAST AND THE CHALLENGE HAS BEEN Indeed, in 2024 the brand TO RECREATE AND REIMAGINE THEM TO will be 65 years old and will celebrate this relevant birthMAKE THEM MORE CONTEMPORARY” day presenting LSR, a shoe FRANCESCO TORRESAN, embodying all the values of HEAD OF PRODUCT NICE FOOTWEAR the label and whose proportions were studied to guarantee an aesthetically pleasing product which is also comfortable and provides excellent fit. A selection of footwear which were hand-finished in Italy with particular attention to details to guarantee high standards of quality. Thanks to the synergy with Nice Footwear, project leader for the development, production and distribution of the label.

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Who is Jeanne Baret today? #wearealljeanne

Discover more

jeannebaret.com

P R E V I E W

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A DIAMOND IS FOREVER Kelto Wear Design: a dream come true. The “Peach” vest can suit any occasion.

A garment characterized by lightness, functionality and style

E

xclusivity, style and research are the fundamentals for the Milanese brand Kelto Wear Design, the outcome of Amedeo De Respini’s creative mind. A tale that started in the Italian fashion capital, but has rapidly spread throughout the Bel Paese, becoming a reference point for the streetwear style of the peninsular “Boot”. A dream come true, thanks to values such as ambition, continuous research and observation of one’s surroundings.

Peach Vest 2024 Not a simple vest, but a symbol of recognition: “Peach” is a must-have to jealously keep in the closet. Minimal lines and a slim fit make the garment functional and versatile, perfect to close with elegance a casual look to wear on any occasion.

A touching product, in total black limited edition, for it recollects the cheerful 2000s with a contemporary perspective, enhancing the sense of freedom and carelessness so typical of that period. A mid-weight garment, with a soft finish that makes it feel like you’re touching peach peel, hence gifting the wearer with a smooth sensation. The iconic brand of the kite has managed once again to surprise with an exclusive garment, which beauty is frozen in time.

“AT THE BEGINNING WE HAD A DREAM... ...AND IT BECAME HISTORY”

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C A P S U L E

C O L L E C T I O N

FREE TO DRESS Diktat Second Skin is a project made of research, innovation and sustainability. A vision starting from the “made in Puglia” knitwear tradition, offering quality products with contemporary design and comfortable fit

D

iktat’s clean, sophisticated contemporary style chooses the best natural and refined yarns to create clothes with strong and artisanal tradition, characterized by high attention to details. The collections are designed in total respect of a sustainable supply chain that is trying to reduce its environmental footprint as much as possible, limiting consumptions and preferring the reuse of materials. For a sustainable circular economy, supported by cutting edge production technology. The brand can rely on its family history, made of tradition in the knitwear production, first born in the 60s. And that now entered its third generation. A know-how of technical and relational experience in the fashion industry, whose main goal is a focused attention on customer satisfaction. Diktat presents a wide collection of knitwear, using selected and best quality yarns, a proposal finally updated in style and colors to meet the demands of the modern consumer.

Like a second skin In 2024, the Apulian brand is launching the new Second Skin collection. A project dedicated to those who love the comfort of dressing freely, thanks to technical fabric specifically studied to guarantee protection and lightness under any weather condition.

Based on comfort, research and tradition, quality and sustainability, the collection presents knitwear clothes sided by a series of jackets and trousers completing the proposal for the dynamic man. Diktat’s Second Skin dna is strongly tied to technological innovation other than design. A creative laboratory constantly evolving, using hitech, performance yarns, such as extrathin Merino wool, Tencel and Nylon. Materials devoted to a refined look, with both a sporty and urban fit.

Some garments from Diktat’s Second Skin collection including jackets and trousers besides knitwear

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handmade in Italy

PITTI Immagine Uomo Sala delle Nazioni - stand B/3

atalasport.it

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B A C K

TIME FOR FASHION The spotlight is on the first menswear events of 2024. From Florence, with Pitti 105, to the Milano Fashion Week, here are the first previews for the main trends of the next winter season. Tailored coats or puffy down jackets, quality knitwear, hybrid and functional jackets, classic footwear or sneakers and accessories with artisanal flavor

WHERE IT ALL STARTED

AUTHENTIC AND RELAXED

An eclectic, functional and elegant offer. Blauer USA

A story of a long family tradition that has come to the

in the FW 24 collection embodies the evolutionary

second generation. Tagliatore continues to evolve

vision of the brand through the many lines proposed.

through its tailoring vocation creating garments of

A revisitation of heritage projected into the future,

extreme elegance and quality. Passion and determination

such as the B.Urban Police line, inspired by the

are the engines of this reality that has its roots in the

jackets of American police

search for beauty.

LUXURY CLOTHING

The fall-winter 2024 collection by Re_HasH takes us into a new dimension, where denim takes on new forms and features, combined with noble yarns such as cashmere and silk. The protagonist of refined and contemporary looks, the Rubens-Z model, with medium low waist, is suitable for every need.

ROCK-CHIC

IC(ESCAPE)

Structured shape, round toe and finishings

Biagini marries an imaginary inspired by the arctic

with logoed details. Cult presents the

landscape, a cold and icy place that, through to the bright

Slash 3533, the iconic Derby moccasin. A

rays of the sun, warms up and takes on a thousand shades.

combination of casual and elegant, perfect

The greased leather Sand joins the handles in crocodile

for any occasion. With a strong personality,

for a wave bag, soft and spacious, also declined in ice

this model has a lightweight Eva sole and

python and ostrich blue night.

metal eyelets. A subtle balance between heritage and modernity.

WEAR YOUR ATTITUDE

With D1 Milano, time is measured with style. An intriguing proposal born from the combination of creativity and innovation. A polycarbonate design with mirror dials and Italian leather. An extreme attention to detail, through a process of continuous research and development.

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SMALL, CREATIVE, AUTHENTIC

The FW 24 collection by Scaglione, in addition to proposing carry over and best-sellers, such as softwool and puffed cashmere, develops new yarns such as a blend of cashmere and wool, but above all lighter weights. Timeless yet contemporary garments that convey a feeling of understated luxury.

SARTORIAL UNIQUENESS

ARTISANAL ROOTS

Accessories rigorously handmade

Lardini weaves around itself a precious

in Italy, in a workshop based on a

sartorial know-how, handed down with

deep respect for time and tradi-

passion over the years. An unmistakable

tional processes. Alberto Olivero

elegance such as the pure wool trench

is characterized by passion and

coat with three-color Prince of Wales de-

experience, traits which are vis-

sign, the over vest and pants in pure wool

ible in every collection, testifying

cavallery diagonal fabric combined with

his mastery.

wool sweater and alpaca garment dye.

THE BEAUTY OF CARING

A

high-level

casualwear

for

those

looking for style and design. Cruna makes its garments exclusively in Italy, through a small chain, with innovative and high-quality local materials that give clothes a contemporary but timeless form. A balance between Venetian roots and international vocation.

FASHION RESISTANCE

The iconic Brescian hosiery company Ant 45 creates a new page in its history with the Luton model. A fine natural cashmere sock from the highlands of Mongolia and Tibet.

Non-dyed cashmere fibers, single-line, with production that uses only essential processes.

KNOW TO LEARN

The ancient oriental sign Ruyi, not only a symbol of spiritual wisdom but also the logo of the brand Wushu Ruyi, is returning with a

TRANSVERSAL OCCASIONS

collection of “martial” sneakers for the cold season. Monochromatic in black and white combined with a model of strong contrasts that recall the shades of sky and earth.

Conte of Florence, the equivalent of authentic Italian sportswear, addresses a modern and dynamic man, who lives his daily life with functionality and versatility, without sacrificing style. A perfect combination of casual and elegant clothing to spend every single moment at

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H E R I TA G E

THE DESIRE OF EVOLUTION

URBAN CONNECTION

A discreet and whispered luxury. Cycle Jeans’ FW 24/25 collection focuses on fabric quality, cuts,

Culture and urban lifestyle come together

proportions and volumes. The project also includes

in the versatile and transversal outfits

pants and shirts in bull denim in cozy cotton and

of Unity. A collection designed to fit any

corduroy, declined in a chromatic range ranging

context. Essential shapes and a metallic

from butter white to brown and blue tones.

palette recalling the modernity and energy of the metropolis to create timeless garments, selecting waterproof, breathable and thermoregulating materials.

THE CONTEMPORARY ESSENTIAL

A core product oriented on jeans, the essential item for the wardrobe. Gianni Lupo is able to dress the man at all times of his day. A harmonious collection characterized by sophisticated garments, clean lines and fluid and delicate volumes, declined in shades of cream and beige.

A TALE IN STARS AND STRIPES

Born in 1952, the model 877 Classic Moc is called “Irish Setter” for its rusty color. In 2007, with the launch of Red Wing Heritage, the shoe continues to live as a symbol of American work and footwear and to be a legacy of values to be handed down for generations to come.

THE ADVENTURES OF MR. BOX

Ironic spirit and dynamic personality. In The Box unveils a collection inspired by the fascinating Scottish atmosphere. A casual outfit, where the iconic Mr. Box, the unmistakable Argyle diamond pattern, the timeless multicolored stripes and preppy-inspired tartan are the protagonists.

ON THE AUSTRALIAN COASTS

Craftsmanship is mixed with high-quality materials. EMU Australia combines design, tradition and environmental responsibility in a collection that adopts Woolmark certified natural and biodegradable materials. A wide range of models to meet the needs of all age groups, big and young.

AMERICAN OUTDOOR

Comfort, protection and longevity never go out of fashion for Filson.

Quality is synonymous with reliability, satisfaction and honest values, expressed in a collection created for the lovers of American outdoor style. An evergreen, the classic bag in tin cloth.

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S H O W C A S E

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R O S E

Q U A R TZ

WE ARE

METROPOLITAN DREAM

Synonymous with comfort and style,

A response to the needs of everyday life. C.P.

Ciesse Piumini creates quality and cool

Company, the father of Italian sportswear, of-

sportswear such as the Dakota model, the

fers a range of high-quality products in terms

duvet icons of the heritage collection. With

of use and style, helping to develop a milita-

detachable sleeves, the garment is made of

ristic and dystopian aesthetic enriched by a

recycled fabric with a cotton look and black

romantic nuance through the dye.

canvas insert on the shoulders.

DARK ELEGANCE

The classic concept of tailoring is combined with contemporary sensibility to create unconventional and exclusive collections.

Brizzi offers high-quality garments, with a focus on outerwear.

The capsule collection B/ Double consists of outerwear made of hand-sewn Double fabric, adapting to the increasingly changing weather conditions overcoming the concept of seasonality.

HISTORY AND INNOVATION

Preserving and highlighting the historic savoir-faire is the main focus of Jeckerson, maintaining its spirit of innovation and the desire for freedom. A collection full of cultural contaminations and immersive experiences, like the five-pocket trousers with skinny fit patch. Made of velvet tencel comfort 850 lines, with buttons and rivets in brass color.

THE RESPONSIBLE CAPSULE

ACBC x Garmont. The collaboration between the well-known Venetian footwear company and the Italian B Corp continues. The project that reinterprets the world of lifestyle in a sustainable way sees as its absolute protagonist a preview of the next FW 24/25, the Lagom, 100% vegan and with reduced CO2 impact.

DNA IN EXPLORATION

GroundNext is the new FW 24 collection by D.A.T.E.. A deep connection between yesterday and tomorrow translating into a raw aesthetic in dialogue with surreal and enigmatic nuances. The absolute protagonist is the SN’23, where comfort and attention to detail are reflected in a perfect construction, a guarantee for optimal performance.

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TRADITION ON THE SHOULDER

Ciak Roncato, driven by a deep ethic since its foundation, continues the processing of its travel items with passion and determination. Among the Uniform collection, a compact and functional backpack, available in small and medium size in black, night blue and military camouflage.

S H O W C A S E

ACTORS OF THEIR OWN STYLE

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G R E E N

T O U C H

EXPERIMENTAL LANGUAGES

An artisanal dna for the attention to detail

KNT, an acronym for Kiton New Textures, stands out for

and quality of materials. With “Luxury Gold”,

its urban style, the result of incessant textile research.

AlexIngh leads the evolution of the tailor-

Contemporary, sporty and casual garments characterized

made shirt in the most innovative version,

by a precious tailoring, a distinctive symbol of the brand.

through a custom design and a strictly made in

A line that draws inspiration from urban architecture and

Italy production. Meeting the tastes and needs

metropolitan culture.

OUTSIDE PEOPLE

Synonymous with safety and comfort.

For Keen, the world becomes a place to protect and not just explore, by using fewer resources during production. The Jasper Zionic sneaker presents an outsole wrapped around the heel to help absorb the impacts, hence resulting not only

of contemporary men.

functional but also performing.

80S INSPIRED

Monoway pays homage to the underground world, celebrating the iconic 80s, for a style with strong urban tones. A musthave orange sneaker with used effect, leather and technical fabric and suede details.

THE LUXURY OF SIMPLICITY

A new line that reflects the socio-cultural transformations that emerged in the post-Covid period. With the winter collection, Valsport offers a conscious refuge, embracing a slow lifestyle, where the concept of luxury evolves into the simple possibility of taking care of oneself.

NO PLACE TO GO

The iconic peaks of the Swiss Alps: a place where alpine heritage and outerwear performance can meet. Napapijri, inspired by its breathtaking landscapes and hyper-modern structures that blend harmoniously with the environment, reinterprets the historic Skidoo jacket, creating a 3D performance down jacket.

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S H O W C A S E

IN LINE WITH THE NEEDS

Markup’s

looks

feature

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O L D

N A V Y

QUALITY: AN EVERGREEN

an

The Gran Sasso man’s desire to express his

exclusive

personality on a daily basis comes through

refinement, in line with the “End of More”

elegance, comfort and made in Italy quality

mentality, launching a project related to the

craftsmanship. For the winter season, the

new climate conditions. Clean lines, details

total look offers an urban luxury mood and

and fit are the key elements of the new

unmistakable style, where past and present

consumer who returns investing in garments

mix for a unique result.

with attractive fit.

A RESPONSIBLE SHELTER

Protecting natural resources is the main aspiration for Ecoalf, the lifestyle brand that promotes a positive change in every creation. The Velan and Lenza coats are made with an innovative textile dye with Dope Dyed technology, a dyeing process that reduces the use of chemicals.

EVERYTHING IS TRANSFORMED

SOFT COMFORT

The result of artisanal work, Tela Genova produces a sensitive garment that meets the

The new made in Italy

criteria of environmental responsibility. A

English brand Alan Scott

stylistic choice that starts from the exploration

offers an extra luxury

of archival pieces, such as the vintage fit chino

sportswear

pants with double pleats.

for

aspir-

ing contemporary men.

Recognized for its wise use of cashmere, always synonymous with a refined and sophisticated lifestyle, the brand offers garments that guarantee freedom

of

movement

and exclusive refinement.

COMPLEX SIMPLICITY

The rough and uneven rock of the southern French coasts embodies the impetuous spirit of the Impulso FW 24/25 collection. Water, earth and air are the guiding elements of

ARTISANAL HERITAGE

A collection inspired by the bold fashion from the Lower East Side.

Moscot starts from the reinterpretation of the nostalgic archive through a modern and relaxed reconstruction, creating models suitable for every person at any time of the day.

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this proposal dedicated to the colder seasons, characterized by garments with refined finishes.

S H O W C A S E

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C L A S S I C

S O U L

A TROUSER FOR THE BOOT

COLD HAUTE COUTURE

An evolution of the techno-sartorial concept.

Duno designs the Attic capsule for the winter

Imagine, create, research and invest. This

season. Strategic outerwear offering comfort

is the magic formula of Berwich to produce

and functionality, through a minimalist and

real made in Italy trousers. Like the Chiaia

multi-tasking style, where aesthetics and

jogger model: oversized trousers with a

performance coexist in a winning product.

contrasting double pocket in the back.

Made in mini-check and inspired by the colors of Italy.

IN THE FOREST

A synthesis of purity and timeless aesthetics, Lorenzoni offers a collection with a simple but precious allure. Carefully selected yarns such as cashmere, merino wool and silk, manufactured to enhance the characteristics of each garment. Pure and soft shades that recall magical fairy-tale atmospheres..

POETIC DIMENSIONS

The Piacenza 1733 FW 24/25 collection uses noble and soft yarns. Beautiful double face fabrics, declined in comfortable garments that become an essential in the wardrobe of the most demanding globe-trotter. A fresh and contemporary reinterpretation of a heritage in continuous evolution.

CULTURAL VIBRATIONS

District People’s collections get their inspiration by contemporary architecture. Clean lines and minimalist silhouettes of global metropolises expressed through lightweight frames that reflect the brand’s dna.

IN CONSTANT MOVEMENT

The ancient manufacturing tradition blends with the modern creativity of the new generations. Green George creates a collection characterized by

skill and experience. The result of a brilliant intuition of the needs of the contemporary man who lives a dynamic reality.

THE VALUE OF WHAT’S LOVED

A passion for quality and the enhancement of its historical archive. Red works on the threedimensionality of the pattern and on color combinations. The sock becomes a precious jewel to wear with care, essential to stand out through the details.

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S H O W C A S E

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L O V E

B U R G U N D Y

LIFE PARTNER

ULTRA SOFT

An authentic beauty transformed in time.

Relaxed looks combine with dynamic silhouettes

Il Bisonte accompanies its customers

and sculpted surfaces: this is the AlphaStudio

through comfortable luxury and uncon-

collection. Turtlenecks, double hoodies and

ventional elegance. An expression of high

cardigans with innovative design and neutral

Florentine craftsmanship, the brand has

colors such as white, milk, camel and biscuit

always focused on environmental and so-

that create tone-on-tone overlays.

cial responsibility.

ART TO WEAR

Primitive nature-inspired shapes are combined with the deep colors of the forest. Avant Toi creates unique pieces with enveloping, soft and deconstructed volumes. The strong link with the artistic world is expressed through exclusive aesthetic research to create inimitable looks.

ESSENTIAL ELEGANCE

REUSE, RECYCLE, REDUCE

Boglioli creates an innovative proposal that combines classic and masculine elements with

Lotto presents the OOH! sneakers. A made in Italy shoe, it’s

cutting-edge techniques, helping to redefine the

made from recycling processes-derived materials. The outsole

concept of contemporary luxury. A unique and

is produced with the results of the recycling of tennis and padel

exclusive method for the processing of noble and

balls, while the upper is made with the waste of the processing

delicate raw materials, such as the Picasso Jacket

of apples. The laces are made of recycled polyester and the

in corduroy wide band, combined with a brushed

comfortable insole comes from the recovery of the waste of

cashmere round neck.

other polyurethane foam insoles.

IN EVERY PERSON

Gavazzeni stands out for its artisanal value of making a classic new and different, giving elegance even to the simplest detail. A collection to be touched and lived combining synergy and experience with awareness and intuition.

UNDER THE ROMAGNA SUN

Staying true to oneself without compromising one’s own uniqueness. This is the essence of Saraghina Eyewear.

An unmistakable design and bold color combinations between frames and lenses, to live every moment with a simple and authentic spirit.

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S N E A K E R

T R E N D

RESPECT IS MUTUAL Is there space for collaborations in the sneakers world anymore?

by Marco Rizzi

I

t’s been a few years that, when talking about sneakers, one can easily end up in a sensitive topic, hitting a nerve on which there’s hardly consensus: today, there are far too many collaborations. A real classic about sneakers and collecting, especially if the person pronouncing these inglorious words has been in this world for a while and has both a way and the right to remember the standards of a few years ago. The one in the title is the tag-line supporting one of the first, wonderful collaborative collections made by adidas Originals and A Bathing Ape, a partnership that, just last year, celebrated its 20th year of activity. The above cited names recall to the many an almost-prehistoric era linked to the origins of the modern Sneaker Culture, when numbers, public and business were inconceivable. For over a decade, collaborations in the sneakers world were pretty scarce and would represent a rarity first of the greatest cultural and just later economic value: partnerships were, in fact, the symbol of the sportswear industry that would draw from brands, artists and names an integral part of the Sneakers Culture as to give more relevance to the product.

Over the years, their role has progressively lost its importance, since the fundamental mechanism has been overrated pushing a lot of brands to take advantage of partnerships to create interest and value on the shoe, which was decreasing faster and faster. This has brought, first of

all, to a rapid saturation of the market, but most of all an annulment of the very role of collaborations in the Sneaker Culture environment: if anyone has status and credentials to sign one’s own project, it’s easy to understand how the exclusivity has lost any meaning. So, yes, there are too many collaborations in the sneakers world today, and by now it’s impossible to go back to the origins of this cultural movement. However, there are still a few cases in which these partnerships are used in the right way, to represent and raise every actor involved. A quite good example was the work made in these years by companies such as Mizuno, Saucony Originals and ASICS, that have been able to find new partners and nurture a relationship based on creativity and common principles, able to highlight the value of the products presented to the public. Artists like Jae Tips with Saucony, Peter Ceizer with Mizuno or Joe Freshgoods with New Balance have found in their partners a platform to tell their own story and reach an even wider audience. Among the great brands, adidas Originals has worked with emerging realities with a very good attitude, whereas Nike gave its best over the years under the careful guidance of Virgil Abloh.

That’s the way the cultural element becomes central again in the world of sneakers, creating added value in what would otherwise be just a pair of shoes and it’s exactly on this matter that the companies should target more.

Above: Jae Tips and his first creation for Saucony Originals. Above, from left to the right: Joe Freshgoods and the Mizuno Contender signed by Pieter Ceizer

— 74 —

S N E A K E R

N E W S

DA N I Ë L L E C AT H A R I IS NOW THE HEAD OF KITH WOMAN

With a statement on his social profiles, Ronnie Fieg - designer and founder of the New York retailer KITH - has announced the birth of a new women’s line of his brand, appointing Daniëlle Cathari as creative director. The KITH woman line will soon be available online and in a dedicated store on Broadway, in Manhattan, occupying the place of the first historic KITH store. Over the years, Cathari has established herself as one of the most interesting designers in the industry, both with her homonymous brand and important collaborations with others such as adidas Originals, Clarks and Woolrich.

CARHARRT DOUBLES IN MILAN

A few weeks after the presentation of the renovated and extended premises of the historical store in Porta Ticinese, Carhartt WIP has officially inaugurated its flagship store in Milan, in Corso Garibaldi 20.

In this case too, the new space was set up by Andrea Caputo and Salomée Faeh, in charge of the restyling of all the chapter stores of Carhartt’s Work in Progress brand. The store opened right next to the exclusive Supreme store inaugurated in 2021. It seems therefore that the area of Corso Garibaldi has the potential of becoming a new reference point for streetwear enthusiasts, in case further openings quite debated already about were confirmed for 2024

VOLUME 3 OF OUTPUMP MAGAZINE I S F I N A L LY A V A I L A B L E

Outpump, the main Italian online media dedicated to the Street Culture, has published the fourth edition of its paper magazine after a few weeks of extra waiting. The third volume was released with three different covers, featuring artist and writer Ivano Atzori, rappers Salmo and Noyz Narcos, and the patterns created by Iris Ceramiche for Diesel. Outpump also took advantage of the release, quickly sold out online and in the few physical stores that distribute the magazine in Italy, to announce a new project: starting next year, the line-up of publications will add Paku Magazine, a newspaper entirely dedicated to Japanese animation which editorial line will be curated by Dario Moccia.

CROCS AND SALEHE BEMBURY AWARDED IN THE FN AWARDS

The American designer Salehe Bembury was once again among the protagonists of the last edition of the Footwear News Achievement Awards, held last November in New York City. After winning the “Designer of the Year” and “Shoe of the Year” awards in 2020 and 2021 respectively, this year Bembury and Crocs won the “Collection of the Year 2023” award. The coveted prize, presented by the New York artist and writer Futura 2000, was accepted by Crocs’ president Michelle Poole, who thanked Bembury emphasizing his role of visionary designer who helped give a new image to the brand.

N E W CO L L A B O RAT I O N B E T W E E N S U P R E M E AND CORTEIZ ON THE WAY?

It seems that the New York brand Supreme and the Londoners of Corteiz may have a collaborative collection scheduled for 2024. Last year Corteiz, led by the elusive Clint 419, kept in check London, Paris and New York with the big launch events of its Nike Air Max ‘95, attracting the attention of many. Within a few months, Corteiz has gone from being one of the most recognizable brands in the British capital to a real global phenomenon, mentioned in all the lists of the main emerging brands. It might therefore be the time for a big four-handed project made with Supreme, the streetwear giant with 30 years of history. From the big posters that appeared in London it seems like it is; however, it will take a little patience to have some certainty.

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S N E A K E R

S H O W C A S E

RETURN TO THE ORIGINS FOR NIKE AND UNDFTD

NORDA AND HAVEN PRESENT A NEW MODEL

A total Canadian collaboration for Norda Run and Haven, who worked together for the official launch of the Norda 003, the new model that was previewed in Paris last fall. The new 003 is a slip-on reinterpretation of the classic 001, hightech running model that has made Norda famous among all trail runners around the world. The 003 recalls the lines of the previous model replacing the laces with a series of elastic bands, while maintaining the original structure with Vibram megagrip outsole and an upper made with a particular waterproof and tearresistant fabric produced by Dyneema, modified for the occasion to achieve more flexibility while maintaining the highest standards of strength of the brand.

During the presentation of the new store in New York, which has recently opened its doors in the heart of Lower Manhattan at 75 Kenmare Street, the Californian brand UNDFTD has worked with Nike to create two original colorways of the Air Terra Humara, a classic from the ACG and trail running 90s catalog originally designed by Peter Fogg. The Terra Humara was at the center of several projects which made it one of the favorite models by collectors and longtime fans, so it is no coincidence that UNDFTD chose it for its latest project. For the moment, both Nike Air Terra Humara colorways are on sale exclusively online and in the UNDFTD stores in New York, Phoenix and Las Vegas, as well as numerous locations in California.

FOURTH CW FOR ADIDAS, CLARKS AND KITH

As part of the Christmas collection “Kithmas”, Ronnie Fieg has presented a unique coloring of the special Samba born from the great project involving adidas Originals, Clarks Originals and KITH. For this Christmas version of the KITH Samba, the traditional base in maple suede has been maintained, but it has been enriched with three-colored details in blue, green and burgundy leather. This fourth colorway of the adidas Originals Samba x KITH x Clarks Originals was unveiled on Christmas Day, as a special release within the “Monday Program” set up by KITH for its most loyal customers.

JAE TIPS AND SAUCONY ORIGINALS TOGETHER AGAIN

Saucony Originals and the New York artist Jae Tips closed the year 2023 launching their latest joint project: a pack composed by two different colorways of Saucony Shadow Grid 2 named “What’s the occasion?”.

Both colorways were sold in preview during the last ComplexCon in Long Beach, followed by a first official release on the Jae Tips website and global distribution in mid-December. Jae Tips and Saucony are among the main surprises of 2023: their partnership, with new releases already scheduled for autumn 2024, has earned them both the Collaboration of the year award at the last Footwear News Achievement Awards.

HIDDEN NY TO DEBUT WITH ASICS

ASICS added an important name to its list of partners. Through Instagram, the Japanese brand has announced a new project coming this spring that will see the involvement of Hidden NY, the American media platform that in the past has already worked with Clarks Originals, Ai Jordan and Salomon. Hidden had the opportunity to create a special make-up using the GEL-NYC as a base, a retro running model presented in January 2023 in collaboration with Angelo Baque and Awake NY. This is the second project with ASICS in a few months for Hidden, which had also included a customized and dyed version of the GT-2160 among the items in the Holiday Program reserved for community members.

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S N E A K E R

S H O W C A S E

THREE 990V4 FOR JOE FRESHGOODS

KARHU AND KNIRPS ARE READY FOR THE COLD SEASON

Just in time for Christmas, the Finnish brand Karhu presented a new collaborative pack made in partnership with Knirps, a leading company in the production of umbrellas, the first launching the folding umbrella in 1928. The pack, renamed “Sh*tty Weather”, includes two new colors of the Fusion 2.0 produced with water-repellent nylon, as well as a co-branded Knirps US.050 ultralight folding umbrella. All items included in the “Sh*tty Weather” pack are already available online on the official website, in flagship stores in Helsinki and Verona and in a selection of sneaker stores around the world.

The partnership between New Balance and Joe Freshgoods continues, with the American brand creating three new limited-edition colorways of the classic 990v4 under the guidance of the Chicago designer. The pack signed by JFG is dedicated to “Belly”, a cult film of 1998 directed by Hype Williams with the participation, among others, of DMX, Method Man, Taral Hicks and Tionne “T-Boz” Watkins. The three colors included in the “1998” Pack were named “Intro”, “Outro” and “Keysha Blue” respectively, taking up names and details of the film by Hype Williams. For the moment, the “1998” Pack by Joe Freshgoods and New Balance is only available in the United States, but it is likely that we will see a global release in the upcoming weeks.

A PA I R O F W A L L A B E E SIGNED THROWING FITS

Clarks Originals, recently featured with Vibram in a wonderful workshop organized at the Art Basel in Miami, announced with somewhat of a surprise the release of a pair of Wallabee signed Throwing Fits, the irreverent podcast focused on men’s fashion produced and recorded in NYC by Lawrence Schlossman and James Harris. The Wallabee, made with the traditional beige maple suede, are enriched by a fob personalized with the logo shape of the well-known podcast and an embroidery that incorporates the decorations present on many Texan boots. The Clarks Wallabee x Throwing Fits were sold exclusively by the podcast team along with their merch. Information on wider distribution is not yet available.

A P U M A PA L E R M O F O R T H E PA L E R M O F C

HERE IS THE CLIFTON LS FROM HOKA A N D S AT I S F Y R U N N I N G

In closure of a 2023 filled with important releases, HOKA presented the project realized with the Parisians of Satisfy Running, who oversaw the making of a special edition of Clifton, renamed Clifton LS. Available in two almost monochromatic colorways with a white and black base (“Caledon Tint” and “Forged Iron”), the Clifton LS by Satisfy Running combines functional and aesthetic elements, preserving the clean and high-tech look typical of Satisfy while maintaining the classic lines of HOKA, with raised seams for the upper and oversize outsole. The HOKA Clifton LS used by Satisfy Running for the promotional shots were worn and “tested” by Stian Dahl Somerseth, Norwegian pro runner part of the Satisfy team, at Kullamannen in Sweden.

— 77 —

The relaunch of the Puma Palermo continues, the classic court model of the German brand back on the shelves of stores last year. The list of special editions made in 2023 has been enriched by a very special collaboration, which has seen Puma work with Palermo FC to create a version of Palermo with the colors and symbols of the Sicilian team. Testimonial of the launch was Alessandra Impellitteri, doc Palermitan and forward of the first women’s team of the city. The promotional photos were taken inside the Renzo Barbera stadium hosting the home matches of Palermo, in a splendid reference to the terrace culture and the role of Puma in the casual aesthetic of the 80s.

I N S I D E

FI VE

T H E

YEARS

S T O R E

B EING

FIRST

Inaugurated in Rome in 2017, Big Soup has been the first Italian resell store. After six years, the story continues with great news. We interviewed Stefano Paolini, co-founder

by Marco Rizzi At the end of 2022, Big Soup turned five, a milestone you celebrated with the release of the “5up” collection, presented last year on social media with a great commercial. How was it developed? But above all, what is the memory you cherish the most of these six years?

Big Soup opened on the December 5th 2017, so in 2022 it turned five years old and, a few months later, we decided to celebrate properly such an important milestone launching two funny collections: one is “5up”, which plays with the contraction of “what’s up?”, whereas the second is a sort of rip-off of the logo of the famous fast food chain “Five Guys”. In both cases we were looking for a funny way to celebrate an important step, using the typical language of the earlier streetwear, more like the Supreme of the golden years.

Rather than a memory of these years, I’d tell you that what really counts is what Big Soup gave us, the people we got to know, what we accomplished together and the possibility, from a certain point of view, to connect with the world.

First the opening in Porto Cervo, then the second space in Rome and now the website: how has your way of retailing changed from opening until today?

With last year’s opening in Porto Cervo I can say we tripled, it was our third year in Sardinia with Big Soup. Today the spaces in Rome are three: besides the two located in via di Ripetta there’s a pop-up store inside the W Hotel, part of the Marriott Group, which we have just renovated for 2024 too. We finally started with the website too and we obtained good results despite the generally declining trends, with a good response especially for the Big Soup branded products, our personal merch, and incaseyoudontknowwhoiam, which is now entirely part of the Big Soup reality. As for the approach, the main difference since we started is the willingness to bet more on us, whether we talk about merch, team or the community that was born and raised around the stores over these six years.

Big Soup was not only the first Italian resell store, but also

the first one to work with a large auction house (Finarte Milano, ed.) to propose rarities and historical pieces of the highest level. Is this an experience you would like to repeat in the future?

This episode could also be mentioned among the key moments and the best memories linked to the Big Soup history. It still seems incredible to think that a “small shop” like ours, born from the union of intents and different “heads” like mine and Sebastiano’s, has come to collaborate with one of the most important auction houses in Italy. It’s a romantic and very beautiful story and it would certainly be good to propose an event like this again, maybe with even rarer and more exclusive pieces. I believe that the key is to find a way to tell everything the proper way without passing the message that it’s just a pair of rare or really expensive shoes, but rather true pieces of our culture, besides being the result of our hard work and research.

It’s been almost four years since we last chatted on HUB Style.

At that moment, we were amid the YEEZY 350v2 boom and the Nike Dunk phenomenon was about to hit the sneakers world.

How have the trends changed in these years and what are the most requested models today?

I clearly remember that, when we started, the “sneaker product” was still a niche, even though the first signs of boom and popularity were already clear. The clients entering the store didn’t know what they had in front of their eyes, most of the time they came asking banal questions. At the beginning, many people thought ours was a temporary store, sometimes even a museum. We reached the peak of the public with the first post-Covid period and the arrival of “The Last Dance”, that opened the eyes on the real value of the sneakers, bringing even the mainstream public to grow into the subject, learn the language and the models or simply subscribe to the SNKRS App to try their luck at each release. This brought to a radical change in the way the product is distributed and gets in the hand of the end-client. Companies were the first to implement new methods and marketing and communication strategies.

On the top: a shot of the full Big Soup team Above: some images of the store in Porto Cervo and the two stores in via di Ripetta in Rome

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ELLESSE SINCE 1959

PITTI

TAKING INSPIRATION FROM THE ARCHIVE

IMMAGINE

UOMO

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9-12

RE-IMAGINED FOR TODAY

GENNAIO

2024

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