HUB Style #01-2025 - UK version by Sport Press

(RE)DISCOVERING ELEGANCE

Looking at the numbers, as expected, 2024 is going into the archives with non-particularly positive results for the Italian fashion sector. While 2023 reached a total of 102 billion euros (including exports), with a 4.1% increase compared to 2022, the last 12 months show a return to below the 100 billion mark, mainly due to a difficult start of the year and still weak domestic demand. For the Fall-Winter 2024 season, the data highlights a decrease in sales of 9.4% compared to the same period of the previous year, signaling a decline in the performance of many brands in the sector. It is also worth noting a net loss of 705 stores in Italy, after accounting for openings and closures.

Although the premise is not exciting, we must highlight that there actually is some good news too. Starting with the recovery reported by the sector during the summer months and continuing into early winter season. And while exports continue to show positive figures, domestic demand is expected to return growing in 2025, supported by a decrease in inflation and a hopeful improvement in the international landscape. Furthermore, it should be emphasized that fashion has performed far better than many other sectors over the past two years, from sports to automotive, just to name two key benchmark areas.

There is also another element that deserves attention and which we have encountered in multiple instances. That is, the return to a more classic and formal style. In a word: elegant. This is not about rejecting or denigrating trends that are an integral part of the fashion world, such as streetwear, the sneaker segment, and hybridizations with other industries. But let’s be clear: fashion has always been synonymous with elegance, and this combination, which at times seemed forgotten, has come back strongly to energize the fashion industry. Surprisingly, it has also been driven by young people. As our distinguished interviewee, the protagonist of our cover story, confesses, sharing a significant family anecdote. He reveals how his 16-year-old son, for instance, prefers to buy vintage items or fish out a coat or a classic polo from his father’s wardrobe, instead of opting for more informal and street brands as in the past. A rediscovery of classic elegance, which truly seems to be back... in fashion.

The data also seems to confirm this, for example, when it comes to men’s jackets. They are the focus of this issue of HUB Style, distributed in a special edition, with a record page count, as usual between Pitti and Milan Fashion Week, and also available digitally in an international version. Classic men’s jackets have always represented a symbol of elegance and sophistication, but over time they have been able to adapt to changes, evolving into a versatile product that combines tradition and modernity. This is a sector expected to grow by an estimated 5% per year until 2027, driven particularly by the increase in demand from emerging markets such as Asia and the United States. Some brands are innovating in design without sacrificing attention to tailoring details, responding to the demand for modern, comfortable garments that can be worn on various occasions.

Finally, we conclude by noting another trend that can only be pleasing to us and, we imagine, to many of our readers: the ‘return’ of consumers to physical stores. The experience in boutiques allows customers to directly appreciate the quality of materials and the care in details. In this case, referring again to a passage from our cover story, we can only share the words of Antonio De Matteis, also in his dual role as ceo of the Kiton Group and president of Pitti Immagine. We endorse his invitation to retailers to return, in some way, to the more authentic roots of their work (without underestimating technology): to stand behind the counter, teach people how to dress, and guide customers.

Publisher MagNet S.r.l. SB Editor-in-Chief: ANGELO FRIGERIO Editorial Director: BENEDETTO SIRONI

Editors VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, MARIA PINA CIUFFREDA, ALESSANDRO MARRA, CRISTIANO ZANNI

Project Manager: CRISTIANO ZANNI

Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors MARCO RIZZI ANGELO RUGGERI

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Cover: The image is a shot from the SS 25 campaign by Kiton - Credit: ‘Crafted by Kiton & AI’

Year 09 - N.01 / 2025 Bi-monthly publication - Registered with the Milan Court, no. 178 on June 9, 2017

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BENEDETTO SIRONI

Dell’Oglio : the (modern) gentleman

Ferner Jacobsen : in the midst of ‘kos’

Luxury in China: the Great Slowdown and the Gradual Rebound

Lorenzoni : the simplicity

Sebago : a warm embrace

16-18

ESC

Macron

Bob Company : the magic of color

Astorflex : a meeting with history

Daniele Fiesoli Italia : absolutely made in Italy

Ten c : a new men’s suit

Gran Sasso : the new face of elegance

Enterprise Japan : urban dynamism

Kangra : on the move

Dolomite : the power of nature

Colmar Originals : iconic winter

Benci Brothers : unique craftsmanship

ENTRE AMIS : conversations ‘with friends’

Sealup : urban sea wolf

Offspring : London calling

ART OF FUSION

For over 40 years, Hublot has pushed the boundaries of technical and aesthetic innovation, merging watchmaking mastery with a futuristic vision. The latest chapter in this journey was written in collaboration with Samuel Ross, an artist and designer who has spectacularly fused design with cutting-edge materials. Ross has redefined contemporary luxury through immersive and radical collaborations, earning a prominent place in the international scene. With his unique and visionary approach, Ross perfectly embodies the innovative spirit of Hublot, blending art, fashion, and haute horlogerie.

RETRO GLAMOUR

Moncler and Palm Angels present a new collection that merges the nostalgia of 1970s motorsport with contemporary energy. Inspired by the retro glamour of Formula 1, the collection blends Palm Angels’ iconic style with Moncler’s technical expertise, through outdoor pieces with graphic details, logos, and embroidered patches. The race suits, sweatshirts, t-shirts, and accessories celebrate racing aesthetics and Californian appeal, creating a perfect fusion of heritage, sportiness, and modern design.

BEYOND THE PRODUCT

My Style Bags introduces an exclusive co-branded collection with Milanese football-team Inter, blending elegance and football passion. The made in Italy line includes accessories such as duffel bags, backpacks, and toiletry cases, featuring details inspired by the team and high-quality materials. Each product is customizable with the customer’s initials. The collection is available online on the respective e-commerce sites and at My Style Bags and Inter Store in Milan. This project marks the beginning of a collaboration set to grow over time.

THE BOUNDARIES OF STREETWEAR

Carhartt WIP and Invincible present a new collaboration for FallWinter 2024, a capsule collection of seven pieces that blend contemporary style with an innovative approach to deconstruction. Japanese designer Shinsuke Nakada, known for his reinterpretations of Americana, explores Carhartt WIP’s archives, creating a line that includes reversible jackets, work shirts, and heavy denim pieces, all characterized by unique details and the emblematic Invincible tornado logo.

RESPONSIBLE INNOVATION

K-Way presents its new Fall-Winter 24/25 collection, introducing certified Woolmark Merino wool to reduce the use of synthetic fibers. The collection includes a men’s bomber jacket and a unisex long coat, both designed to combine functionality, elegance, and sustainability. Merino wool, natural, renewable, and biodegradable, offers high performance, lightness, and breathability, making the pieces ideal for all seasons. This collaboration with Woolmark underscores the brand’s commitment to innovation and the use of technical and sustainable materials.

THE LEGACY OF FRENCH ALPINISM

Pyrenex and Paraboot, two icons of French craftsmanship, join forces to celebrate their shared heritage in alpinism. The collaboration brings to life two exclusive pieces that reinterpret the spirit of adventure and technical excellence that define both brands. The Avoriaz shoe, a reimagining of 1960s and 1970s mountain footwear, combines durable, refined leather with a recycled rubber sole and two-tone laces, while the Audoubert jacket, inspired by a 1970 model, merges functionality with vintage design, paying tribute to Pyrenex’s authenticity.

A NEW LOOK

DONE!, the lifestyle brand known for the perfect blend of functionality and design, presents an updated version of its iconic >East+West< model, now made in multicolor Cordura. Cordura fabric is synonymous with strength and durability, ideal for those always on the go, without sacrificing style. The horizontal design of the backpack, which combines clean lines and practicality, maintains the essence of the original model but is refreshed with a new color and fabric update.

SLOW FASHION REVOLUTION

Among the emerging brands stands TAIPPE, a young label that blends comfort, versatility, and innovative design. The brand stands out for its use of natural and biodegradable materials. The selected fabrics include: organic cotton, acetate, micromodal, and bio-elastane, an innovative fiber made up of 98% sugar. The brand’s commitment is to create garments that respect the environment while offering long-lasting wear, helping to reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the ecosystem.

A CAPSULE BETWEEN PAST AND FUTURE

The new collection born from the collaboration between Fruit of The Loom and D.A.T.E. is a project that blends tradition and modernity under the creative direction of Leo Colacicco, founder of LC23. The capsule includes sneakers and clothing designed to highlight the historical legacy of Fruit of The Loom while renewing it through the fresh and sophisticated aesthetic of D.A.T.E. The result is a unique collection where each piece strikes a balance between refined details and essential lines, embodying the perfect fusion of comfort, style, and innovation.

EMBROIDERY GAMES

SYMBOL OF PLEASURE

In 1998, Gallo introduced multicolor socks, astonishing its customers. Elio Fiorucci, impressed by their originality, chose them for his store in Piazza San Babila in Milan, anticipating a bold and avant-garde vision of fashion. Today, Gallo honors the legendary designer with a reissue of the socks he wore, available in Gallo stores in Milan and at airports, coinciding with the ‘Elio Fiorucci’ exhibition at the Triennale Milano, open until March 16th, 2025.

TO INFINITY AND BEYOND

L.G.R and SEASE launch the second edition of their partnership with Zanzibar Flap sunglasses, handcrafted in Italy and representing craftsmanship excellence and sustainability. The sunglasses are offered in two variants: Black Matt with Solaro Crimson Red flaps and Flat Silver Mirror lenses, and Havana Chiaro with Solaro Iridescent Desert flaps and Flat Grey lenses. The collaboration celebrates the shared commitment to timeless quality and design.

UGG joins forces with Palace for a new collaboration that celebrates comfort, style, and innovation. The collection includes the UGG Palace Tasman and UGG Palace Ultra Mini, as well as the first UGG Palace jacket, made of soft suede with a shearling lining and embroidered details on the arms, visible shearling edges, and the ‘P’ logo of Palace on the back. Completing the offering are the UGG Palace Bucket Hat and UGG Palace tote bag.

THE NEW HUB FOR SUSTAINABLE DENIM IN MILAN BY CANDIANI DENIM

Candiani Denim, a leader in sustainable denim production, opened the doors of Candiani Corner, an exclusive multibrand store created in collaboration with Ferramenta, a famous name in the fashion and style world. Located in Piazza Mentana 3, on the corner of Via San Sisto, the new store is a true research space that brings together fashion, design, and sustainability. The project idea comes from Alberto Candiani’s vision and the artistic direction of Paolo Bertacchi, the founder of the Ferramenta concept store. The interior design was curated by architect Luca Piccinno, who chose an industrial aesthetic, using raw materials such as exposed concrete, steel, and glass.

NEAPOLITAN TAILORING BECOMES A WORK OF ART WITH RUBINACCI

Rubinacci inaugurated the Rubinacci Laboratory in Via Chiaia 149, in the heart of Naples, with a permanent installation celebrating the excellence of Neapolitan tailoring craftsmanship. The space, conceived as a living theater, offers visitors the opportunity to observe closely the work of the 30 tailors from the historic atelier, showcasing the mastery that made the brand famous internationally. With life-size mannequins and artisans at work, the laboratory is a journey between tradition and innovation, transformed into a work of art by artist Michele Iodic.

JIL SANDER ARRIVES IN TOKYO

Jil Sander has recently opened its new flagship store in Tokyo’s prestigious Omotesando district, marking a significant milestone in its global expansion. The new 268-square-meter store was designed by acclaimed British architect John Pawson, known for his minimalist approach and ability to create spaces that convey calm and serenity. The architectural concept behind this new store is based on a philosophy of purity, intimacy, and intensity.

A STORE IN THE HEART OF TURIN FOR SUNS

Suns, the Italian brand known for technical and sporty-chic fashion, celebrates a new milestone with the opening of an exclusive store in Turin’s historic center. Located in Via Lagrange, one of the city’s most prestigious shopping streets, this new space has been designed to offer customers an immersive and engaging experience. The interiors reflect the brand’s values of minimalism and simplicity, combining black lacquered iron elements with light gray tones to create a refined and welcoming atmosphere.

CRUCIANI FLIES TO SAINT MORITZ

Cruciani, the renowned Italian luxury knitwear brand, steps into a new phase by exiting from bankruptcy proceedings and opening an exclusive boutique in Saint Moritz, Switzerland. This significant step confirms the ambitious relaunch and strengthening plan for the brand, led by Orlean Invest Holding, the company that took over the brand, supported by the strategic vision of Gabriele Volpi.

A GRAND JOURNEY

The Excellence of Italian Tailoring Worldwide, Kiton Continues Its Steady Growth Path. Synonymous with elegance and tradition, the Neapolitan brand keeps up with modern times without ever betraying its dna

by Cristiano Zanni and Valeria Oneto

Synonymous with Italian haute couture and uncompromising quality, Kiton is an icon of made in Italy. Its history intertwines with that of Antonio De Matteis, a member of the second generation of the Paone family. The grandson of Ciro, founder of the Arzano-born company on the outskirts of Naples in 1968, De Matteis is now the guardian and innovator of an inheritance that has led Kiton to become one of the globally recognized Italian excellences. Kiton proves that innovation does not necessarily mean abandoning classic elegance for sweatshirts and sneakers; on the contrary, it requires a clear and forward-looking vision. Under his leadership as ceo, the Neapolitan company has experienced steady growth: today, it counts on five production sites in Italy, over 800 employees, and 67 flagship stores in iconic cities such as Milan, Rome, New York, London, Las Vegas, Seoul, and Beijing. In addition, Milan hosts the brand’s prestigious showroom, housed in the historic Liberty-style building at Via Pontaccio 21, formerly Palazzo Ferré, now renamed Palazzo Kiton. The production takes place in the Arzano workshops, true temples of artisan mastery. Here, the skillful use of needle and thread is combined with an innovative approach, allowing for the perfect fusion of tradition and modernity. This far-sighted vision can be found in Kiton’s tailoring school too, where new generations of masters are trained. Kiton’s innovation and contemporaneity also find expression in the brand KNT, an acronym for Kiton New Textures, founded by twins Mariano and Walter De Matteis, sons of Antonio. This brand translates

the core values of the parent company elegance, tailoring, obsessive attention to quality, and research in fabrics into an urban and sportswear collection, aimed at conquering Gen Z too. In an exclusive interview, Antonio “Totò” De Matteis, ceo of the brand, explained how Kiton’s success lies in its ability to understand time and interpret desires without ever betraying its dna. This philosophy allowed the brand to grow and renew while remaining faithful to its roots.

In the past, you’ve said that you treat your employees well, even in a pragmatic way, paying much more than the average. I was struck by the sentence, “They need to have a clear head.” Tell us about this unconventional approach. Absolutely. Environmental responsibility is crucial, but without social responsibility, nothing can be achieved. We are increasingly realizing this. Look at the automotive industry: it is going through a huge crisis in the pursuit of sustainability, something that is often forced, with half a million jobs at risk. Everyone wants to be green and chic, but then they don’t know how to manage the consequences. It seems like the world is trying to slow down slower lifestyles, less display… A trend that also emerges when talking to major players in the sector.

By the way, I read that your uncle, Ciro Paone, used to buy very particular and expensive English fabrics. Has the philosophy always been to give value to the product? Indeed. Today people spend money where they see real value and choose long-lasting products. This has always been our

On the left: A portrait of the complete Kiton family. The Palazzo Kiton showroom, where both Italian and international clients are welcome On the right: One of the master artisans at work at Kiton’s historic headquarters in Arzano (NA)

approach too: we work for a niche clientele, people who want to stand out less but who truly appreciate quality. That’s why we adopt a minimalist design: no loud logos, just small, discreet details. For example, the pocket square with a dot if someone doesn’t want it, they can remove it. However, clients appreciate it precisely because of its understated elegance.

When was Kiton founded?

The company was founded in 1956 as CiPa (named after the founder, my uncle Ciro Paone), but when expanding internationally, they realized that the name sounded too much like “cheap.” So, in 1968 they decided to change it to Kiton, a name derived from “chitone,” the ceremonial tunic that the ancient Greeks wore to pray to the Olympus’ Gods. This was an important choice that reflected the desire to elevate excellence.

What has made Kiton what it is today?

There wasn’t a specific moment, but rather a series of right choices. We’ve had the luck, but also the skill, to make very few mistakes. We’ve always respected our clients, suppliers, and competitors. This is what has brought us to where we are today.

What does it take to change fashion?

It takes seriousness, elegance, and a little bit of propriety. It’s a matter of attitude.

How do you see the change?

It will be driven by the younger generations, who are seeking slower rhythms and greater attention to quality. However, in production, excessively slow rhythms are risky. Take smart

working, for example: it has its limits. In our company, we prefer a direct approach through sharing: meetings often take place over breakfast or lunch, where everyone, even the janitor, participates in some way in the strategy. Of course, with 67 stores worldwide, we need to organize more formal meetings, but we remain true to our direct style, and our method remains human and spontaneous.

You’re still expanding your stores, focusing on the East, is that correct? What’s the strategy?

Yes, we’ve opened four new stores this year, even in Asia. Growing in direct retail is crucial, but we continue to do well in wholesale as well, which represents 50% of our business, both in Italy and abroad.

How important are online sales for you?

They account for less than 1%. Retailers need to go back to doing their job: staying behind the counter, teaching people how to dress, guiding clients. The mentality has changed; territorial exclusivity no longer exists. We can do capsule or exclusive collections, perhaps for a particular store, but the world is now global.

How do you maintain relationships with your historic multi-brand stores?

With ethics and adaptation. But everyone has to evolve, including us. The world has changed, and so have we and the stores. In the past, we traveled the world with our suitcase, now we work in our showroom, Palazzo Kiton, where clients, both Italian and international, are more organized, and buyers are more discerning. For small stores, it’s essential to be

A shot of the interior of the historic Palazzo Kiton, in the heart of Brera, Milan

The SS 25 collection by Kiton is characterized by elegance, tradition, and innovation

A shot from the Kiton SS 24 collection financially solid. Our work is no longer simple, but it is certainly more competitive.

How many stores do you have now?

We’re talking about 67 owned boutiques internationally. In Italy, we have about 40 high-level multi-brand showcases. Over the past three years, the quality has greatly improved. Italian stores are still examples for the world: places like Sugar in Arezzo, Nugnes 1920 in Trani, and Dell’Oglio in Palermo are true gems. Classic elegance is back in fashion, and this is an inspiration for all of us. Even young people are rediscovering this elegance, which we prefer not to call “quiet luxury.” For example, my 16-year-old son prefers to buy vintage items or search through my wardrobe and wear my old coat or my classic blue polo instead of more trendy and streetwear brands, as used to happen in the past. It’s a clear sign of a trend towards the classics.

How do you see Kiton in 10 years?

If we continue to work according to my uncle Ciro’s values quality, life philosophy, respect for people I see a very positive future. For us, quality is not only in the product but also in how we treat employees and collaborators, with a social welfare system that is automatic for our reality.

The Pitti theme is central for you, both as an exhibitor and president...

Yes, I wear two hats. As exhibitors, we don’t always realize how much work goes into organizing a fair. Pitti Uomo is the only men’s event of this magnitude in the world. The team is exceptional: every six months, it reinvents itself, diversifying with events on food, books, dance, and more. This year, Pitti Uomo reached 800 exhibitors, 45% of whom are international. This shows how the world sees us as a reference point.

How do you plan to close the year?

The first nine months of 2024 marked a 14% growth. It will be another record year: we’re aiming for a turnover between 225 and 230 million euros.

KNT, A TRIBUTE TO THE TIMELESS STYLE OF TENNIS

Kiton’s sartorial excellence is renewed with KNT, an acronym for Kiton New Textures, the brand launched in 2018 by Mariano and Walter De Matteis, the third generation of the family. This line embodies the innovative side of the group, bringing the artisanal tradition of Arzano, a small town near Naples and a global symbol of made in Italy, to new frontiers. Hence “A Grand Journey” was born, a physical and ideal travel through the European tennis destinations, intertwining the brand’s heritage with this sport’s timeless elegance. The collection debuts at the Internazionali d’Italia in Rome, continues with the allure of Paris at Roland Garros, touches the shores of the Amalfi Coast and Capri, and ends at the exclusive Wimbledon in London. The capsule is inspired by the refined minimalism of the 1970s, when tennis players sported cotton polos and shorts with a slim cut. This vintage aesthetic, reinterpreted in a luxury key, combines sportswear with formal details: t-shirts, polos, and shorts are paired with unstructured blazers in fresh wool, woven gilets, and cardigans. Completing the line are the varsity jacket and cap with a visor, decorated with the KNT emblem. The collection’s premium cotton knitwear dominates, with polos and t-shirts in fresh pique. The color palette pays homage to the tennis spirit: optic white, ocean blue, and grass green. With “A Grand Journey,” Kiton celebrates the union of craftsmanship, innovation, and the elegant iconography of tennis, transforming each piece into a symbol of timeless style.

The

KNT capsule collection draws inspiration from the elegant iconography of tennis

BEYOND THE BODY

Two stories about beauty, authenticity, and innovation in the fashion world. Among craftsmanship, technology, and responsibility, they celebrate individuality and the freedom to be

by Sara Fumagallo

ANGELICA MONTINI

Between uniqueness and beauty, this captivating story was born from the creative mind of designer Angelica Montini. Raised immersed in a world of art, music, and literature, each of her creations is a tribute to the cultures she experienced, speaking to her with strength and authenticity. Her collections are a hymn to the beauty of imperfection, to the exploration of the unexpected. Each piece is not just a product, but a narrative that celebrates individuality and a passion for excellence, craftsmanship, and sustainability. The brand is not afraid to tackle global themes, offering a dialogue between tradition and innovation, between modernity and culture. It is not just about clothing, rather about works that tell stories, conveying unprecedented visual and emotional energy, making each customer the protagonist of a unique experience.

Instagram. @angelicamontini.studios angelicamontini.com

CANCELLATO UNIFORM

Cancellato Uniform (cU) is not just a brand; it is a silent dialogue between the body and the garment. An invitation to feel themselves every day, naturally. Its 3D knitwear, the result of a meeting between Italian craftsmanship and technological innovation, breaks with conventions to dress every shape, every movement, every life. No longer clothes imposing rules, rather clothes that adapt to different bodies, ages, genders, and abilities, from XS to XL. Four sizes, based only on height, to fit anyone: from 1.30 to 1.90 meters. Every cU piece is designed to get along with the body’s changes over time, offering elegance and quality for a wardrobe without barriers. Cancellato Uniform is the freedom to be, without compromises.

Instagram. @cancellatouniform cancellatouniform.com

ELEGANT LEGACY

In a constantly evolving world, classic men's clothing brands face the challenge of combining craftsmanship with the changing preferences of modern men. They innovate without compromising the authenticity of their roots

by Valeria Oneto

Classic men's jackets have always represented a symbol of elegance and sophistication, but over time they managed to adapt to changing tastes and consumer needs. This garment, a cornerstone of formal wear, has evolved into a versatile product that blends tradition and modernity. In 2023, the global men's apparel market surpassed $500 billion, with classic jackets playing a leading role. The sector's growth, estimated at around 5% annually through 2027, is primarily driven by increased demand in emerging markets like Asia and the United States (SIS International Research). The resurgence of formal wear is evident, also in response to the desire to stand out in increasingly demanding professional and social spheres, as reported in market trend statistics for 2023 and 2024, created by Mordor Intelligence Industry Reports. Italy remains the undisputed leader in the production of high-end jackets, thanks to its iconic brands that are internationally known and respected. These brands embody the best of artisanal craftsmanship, offering garments

1 The men's jacket market is constantly evolving. What do you think are the main trends influencing the design of jackets for the winter season? How do you interpret them in your brand?

2 The choice of materials is crucial for jackets that combine style, comfort, and functionality. What fabrics, and also innovative technologies, are you using?

Tailoring tradition is a cornerstone for many of Italy's excellence brands. How

do you keep this heritage alive while adapting to the needs of the contemporary market?

4 The men's jacket sector has undergone significant changes in recent years. What are your key markets, and what role do jackets play in your revenue?

5 The jacket is no longer just a formal garment but a key element of a versatile wardrobe, even for younger customers. How do you respond to the demands

1Jackets are becoming increasingly central in men's wardrobes, becoming a key element of looks and a versatile piece for combinations. In the upcoming winter 2025 collection, we offer not only the iconic and

that use fine fabrics and top-tier workmanship. The growing interest in luxury and bespoke products, especially in international markets, reflects the enduring association of ‘made in Italy’ with excellence and timeless style. The return of consumers to physical stores in 2024 is another sign of the ongoing change. The boutique experience allows customers to appreciate directly the quality of materials and attention to detail, aspects that remain crucial for the luxury segment. This trend is paired with an increasing focus on sustainability, with many companies adopting recycled materials or low-impact production processes. Some brands are innovating in design without sacrificing attention to sartorial details, responding to the demand for modern, comfortable suits that can be worn on different occasions. The classic jacket has become increasingly symbolic of versatility, adapting to the needs of a global audience. Craftsmanship, innovation, and sustainability ensure its continued success, celebrating the best of Italian tailoring tradition, as shared by six key players in the industry.

of clients looking for items that can adapt to different contexts, from business to leisure? What is your target audience?

6 Technical details such as innovative padding, waterproof and breathable fabrics, or sporty elements are changing the perception of the classic jacket. What is your approach to integrating technology and innovation into your garments?

7 Italian craftsmanship is increasingly

historical pieces of Boglioli, reinterpreted with new fabrics, treatments, and colors, but also new, relaxed, and comfortable volumes and shapes, to further expand their range of use. The fabrics, mostly ‘four-season’, ensure absolute comfort, following every movement without ever losing their impeccable shape.

2 In this FW 25 collection, we present the ‘DNA’ package, which celebrates our iconic jacket with cashmere fabrics, pure or blended with precious materials like silk, garment-dyed to enhance their uniqueness and softness. We also expanded the ‘high performance’ offering with fine and twisted wools, capable of providing natural stretch, extraordinary comfort, and an anti-wrinkle effect. This package includes jackets, suits, and trousers, all garment-dyed to achieve distinctive hand feels and colors. We have also introduced new washing treatments that make our carry-over fabrics even softer

appreciated internationally. In which markets do you see the greatest growth opportunities for your brand, and how are your jackets positioned compared to global competitors?

8 What challenges and opportunities do you see for men's jackets in the coming years?

Do you think the market will evolve towards more technical and multifunctional garments, or will there be a return to more classic and formal tailoring?

and more pleasant to the touch, a hallmark of our savoir-faire.

We invest heavily in our internal expertise. In our tailoring workshop in Gambara, the historic headquarters of the brand, around 130 people, mostly women, work with unique skills developed over decades of activity. Every year we welcome new resources, including young people in their first job, who are trained by experienced artisans until they reach a high level of professionalism. Special attention is given to the development of new patterns: our pattern makers experiment with innovative shapes and motives season after season, maintaining Boglioli's contemporary and cutting-edge style.

Boglioli is present in major foreign markets, with a strong presence in continental Europe (particularly in Germany, where we achieve excellent performance every year), Japan, and the United States, our top market in

FRANCESCO RUSSO ceo BOGLIOLI

LUIGI LARDINI creative director LARDINI

In recent seasons, the jacket has been ‘updated’. For the upcoming winter collection, this garment is more comfortable and elongated, with a move away from fitted styles. For Lardini, this evolution translates into jackets that ensure freedom of movement, made with noble fibers like pure cashmere and cashmere-silk blends. Patterns such as Prince of Wales or checks are featured, with a preference for tone-on-tone designs for a refined elegance, enhancing looks with coordinated knitwear, such as cardigans and turtlenecks made from the same yarn. We've even created a series of ties in the collection that use the same fabric and pattern as the jacket and trousers.

I am a conservative, which is why we prefer fine, natural fabrics for our collections, avoiding non-noble fibers and focusing on wools, cashmere, and blends that create unique textures. From a technological stand-

terms of results. Although the jacket still plays a central role, Boglioli is increasingly establishing itself as a total-look brand, with excellent performance also in suits, trousers, and knitwear.

Boglioli's innovative approach to tailoring has led to the creation of our iconic deconstructed look. The deconstructed jacket represents an evolution in men's luxury, with a relaxed style that challenges the traditional idea of formality. This garment perfectly blends design and fit, creating a balance between elegance and comfort, and is suitable for a wide range of occasions, including more formal ones. Our target is a man of any age, who seeks extreme quality and has confidence in his abilities and possibilities.

6 In the AI 25 collection, we launched the ‘Active’ line. Our iconic jacket has been reinvented with sporty details such as rubberized zipper pulls and welded finishes. The jackets are essential and clean, while the overshirts feature technical details, ideal for an active lifestyle.

We are focusing a lot on the USA and Canada markets, where we are already well established but still see large margins for growth. We are also expanding into other promising markets such as Turkey, where we entered just a few seasons ago, the Middle East, with the debut planned for this season, India, where we will open a shop-in-shop in July 2025, and South Korea.

The man of the future will go back wearing jackets again. Even younger generations are creating sophisticated looks with jackets and suits made from high-quality fabrics. While technical and multifunctional garments may grow, we believe that the combination of fine natural fibers, tailoring excellence, and relaxed shapes will remain a winning formula in the years to come.

DILETTA PAOLONI brand manager MANIFATTURE PAOLONI

Our new release is inspired by an image of timeless elegance, combined with the search for lightness, purity, and natural materiality. The latter finds its highest expression in the flagship piece of our collection: the blazer. Within the offering, we have dedicated a specific capsule called ‘The Blazer’. In this latest FW 25/26 collection, the piece evolves significantly thanks to a new construction, enriched by embroidery on the collar seam and contrasting internal piping. The slightly dropped lapel, the relaxed fit, and the exclusive buttons define a new way of interpreting this iconic piece of menswear.

2 In suits, jackets, and coats, the values of comfort and performance are becoming increasingly central. Even in formal pieces, mono and bi-stretch fabrics are preferred, accompanied by a wide range of jerseys made from both natural fibers and technical blends. Similarly, for the ‘daily

LUBIAM creative director

L.B.M. 1911

1 In the winter season, jackets are increasingly resembling outerwear, as demonstrated by our overshirt models, but we are also witnessing a strong return of the double-breasted style. Moreover, jackets are enriched with artisanal tailoring details, such as the raw-edge finishes featured in the Blackout capsule. At L.B.M. 1911, we interpret these trends through the use of the highest-quality materials, continuo-

wear’ offering such as jackets, cabans, and coats, bi-stretch fabrics are favored, featuring excellent elasticity performance, available in both padded and quilted versions.

Paoloni interprets contemporary formalwear, attentive to trends, with outerwear as a key strength. Our strategy is to offer a focused collection characterized by competitive prices.

Today, 85% of sales comes from Italy, while internationally, the key markets are Germany, France, and Spain, with promising prospects in Japan and the United States. The jacket category, along with suits, represents the main share of Paoloni’s turnover, accounting for approximately 80%.

The brand is positioned in the higher end of formalwear, with great potential. The main challenge is evolving its image to attract younger clients. It’s a long journey, but we are already seeing some changes.

The Paoloni collection’s ‘Tempo’ capsule represents the performance element of the offering. It includes jackets and trousers in hyper-stretch jersey, padded and quilted bi-stretch nylon cabans and bombers, as well as a new power stretch woolblend orthogonal fabric, ideal for suits and trench coats. A dedicated label and hangtag with a tech aesthetic identify the brand's intent to combine sartorial heritage with ‘easy care’ functionality and practicality, which are fundamental today in the creation of contemporary garments.

In the business context, Paoloni, which remains a reference brand for outer-

us experimentation, and precise stylistic research. The FW 25/26 collection tells the story of a constantly evolving male aesthetic, with a vibrant and unconventional color palette that allows each man to express his uniqueness.

We choose luxurious and refined materials, such as pure cashmere, cashmere-silk blends, alpaca, and mohair, enhanced by innovative treatments that provide warmth and softness while maintaining lightness. We have revolutionized garment-dyeing processes, proposing them in a luxury way. An iconic example is our double-breasted jacket in a wine-colored beaver wool-cashmere blend, dyed in the garment, with a delicate and refined frosting effect that adds depth and character to the fabric. This is an extraordinary result, unimaginable just a few years ago.

We keep the tailoring tradition alive by constantly seeking the balance between craftsmanship and innovation. Each piece is the result of months of research and the use of textile techniques never tried before. For example, velvet has been reinterpreted with variations that play on

wear, has consolidated its presence in Italy and Europe. However, one of the main goals is to increase international sales by 20%. To achieve this, we are actively seeking new foreign partners.

Our challenge, but also a great opportunity, is to make the blazer central in the men's wardrobe again. This iconic piece represents masculine elegance, the result of excellent fabric research, consolidated know-how, and Paoloni’s long manufacturing tradition. For the future, I see a confirmation of our sartorial attitude, enriched with new technical designs and features tailored for leisure use.

depth and texture, creating garments that respect tradition while meeting the new needs of the contemporary man. Our flexibility and ability to listen allow us to anticipate trends, evolving continuously without ever betraying our roots or our connection to the region. Our commitment to excellence and the well-being of people remains constant, driven by the passion that has guided us for over a century.

Our main markets are North America (USA and Canada) and Europe, with a focus on countries such as Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Spain, Portugal, and the Benelux region. Jackets account for about 50% of our turnover, but outerwear, coats, suits, and trousers also play an important role. We are also expanding categories related to the total look, such as knitwear, which is experiencing significant growth.

We respond to the needs of customers who look for versatility, a combination between elegance and functionality. Our jackets are designed to adapt to different contexts, from business to leisure, with details that make them ideal for everyday use. This season, we offer versatile pieces, perfect for

GIOVANNI BIANCHI style office director

PINO LERARIO

creative director TAGLIATORE

Yes, in fact, the jacket market is constantly evolving, and we’re following its trends. Every season, we make very small adjustments to the patterns, imperceptible to the untrained eye, but these allow us to present collections that are always up-todate. For example, I’m referring to a slight modification of the lapel, a few millimeters wider and slightly lower, as in the upcoming winter season. The same approach applies to lengths and volumes, which in general are more comfortable. In this way, we create a product that is always up with the times.

Over the years, we’ve worked with various wool mills, both Italian and British. We actively participate in creating exclusive fabrics: not only do we take care of the design, but we also influence the choice of color palettes and fiber blends. We’ve developed special finishes and conducted numerous tests to achieve softer and more comfortable fabrics to the touch.

The sartorial spirit has always been present in our garments. In 52 years, we’ve mastered the art of ‘made in Italy’, continuing to innovate thanks to our artisans, who work with great dedication on the Tagliatore project.

Our key markets are Italy, Japan, Central Europe, Scandinavia, and Turkey. Recently, we’ve begun exploring the American market, a new and exciting challenge for the brand.

Our clients are very discerning, which is why we offer a refined product with attention to detail, craftsmanship, and premium materials. Our target is broad: from young people wearing outerwear for the first time, looking for a comfortable and updated fit, to adults who want exclusive fabrics and tailored craftsmanship. In general, the jacket is an extremely versatile garment, perfect for both casual and more formal settings.

In recent years, alongside more classic fabrics, we’ve introduced high-performance materials and blends of technical wools, designed to meet the demands of daily life and the needs of new markets, primarily in Asia, followed by Italy and Europe. Technical fabrics are ideal for travel or leisure, without sacrificing the elegance of a suit or jacket.

Made in Italy is admired in every market. During our travels, we meet customers to whom we tell stories about our history and the craftsmanship tradition that sets us as ambassadors of Italian excellence worldwide. This certainly gives us a strategic advantage over our competitors.

both immersing oneself in nature and navigating urban everyday life. The same jacket, depending on the combinations and accessories, can become the core of a sporty outfit or a refined look suitable for a special occasion. Our target is a demanding and dynamic man, with multiple passions, always looking for quality, uniqueness, and style, who desires garments that reflect his personality in every situation.

This approach has always set us apart. We combine technology and innovation in the choice of materials and special treatments to create unique, highly-performing jackets that are also sophisticated. The jacket thus moves closer to outerwear, enriched with innovative and functional details, as seen in the shirt-jacket combinations that blend exclusivity and practicality.

A key example is the combination of these with cotton mélange flannel trousers in smoky grey. The pure cotton takes on a wool-like appearance, soft and precious, for a uniform-style look. The overshirt, with applied chest pockets and welt pockets on the front, pairs with baggy trousers with pleats and an elastic waistband, offering maximum comfort and a contemporary style.

The pleasure of wearing a beautiful garment will never fade. Jackets carry culture, knowledge of fabrics, and expertise in tailoring. The trend towards more performance-oriented materials is growing, but this does not exclude the demand for tailored garments. I believe both worlds will coexist, meeting different needs.

We see great opportunities for growth in markets such as Japan and the Middle East, where quality and Italian design are highly appreciated, as well as in the USA, Canada, and Europe, where our presence is already strong. Our jackets are positioned in the premium segment, thanks to attention to detail, quality materials, and technical innovation. Our ability to blend tailoring tradition with modernity allows us to stand out in an increasingly competitive market.

The men’s jacket of the future will be designed to reflect the needs of the wearer. I foresee an evolution towards increasingly technical and multifunctional garments that combine practicality and comfort without compromising on style and quality. However, there will always be room for classic and formal tailoring, enriched by innovative elements in both fabrics and fits. Tailoring is both an art and a science, destined to evolve alongside the changes in the world. Our goal will remain to balance sartorial tradition with technical innovation, offering contemporary garments that are in line with our heritage and recognizable for their style and excellence.

THE GENTLEMAN (MODERN)

In Palermo, Dell’Oglio’s boutique has been synonymous with elegance, tradition, and innovation since 1890. With over a century of history, it became a landmark for fashion in Sicily (and beyond)

by Sara Fumagallo

The story begins in the heart of Palermo, back in 1890, when Santi Dell’Oglio decided to open his first ‘luxury emporium’. Over the years, Dell’Oglio has remained true to its roots, preserving the art of classic tailoring and attention to detail, while also embracing modernity. While initially the store was dedicated primarily to a male clientele, in recent decades it included women's fashion, expanding its offerings to meet the demands of a public increasingly attentive to international trends. Today, the boutique is under the leadership of Mario Dell’Oglio, who has successfully renewed the brand without ever forgetting its origins, always keeping the concept of the ‘Sicilian gentleman’ at the heart of the business, in a modern key.

Tell us briefly about the history of Dell’Oglio. What is its relationship with Sicily?

Dell’Oglio was founded in Palermo in 1890 as a shop dedicated to the Sicilian gentlemen of the early 20th century. Among our clients were Vincenzo Florio, Renato Guttuso, and Leonardo Sciascia. Over the years, while staying true to a classic tradition, we opened to more modern influences, including the world of women's fashion. In 2022, we expanded our presence by opening a new location in Taormina, in addition to our historic Palermo shop, where we experiment with an offering designed for the resort experience, merging fashion and tourism. Dell’Oglio represents Sicily's spirit of fusion, a place where culture layers and enriches itself over time.

How has the concept of style and elegance changed over the years?

Today, elegance is increasingly a form of personal self-expression rather than a rigid adherence to traditional codes. It is expressed primarily through knowledge and culture, and it has become an increasingly rare quality.

WOMEN’S TAORMINA

Boutique Name: Dell'Oglio D'O

Address: Corso Umberto I, 101 & 170, 98039

Square Meters: 80 - 450

OVERVIEW

Boutique Name: Dell'Oglio D'O Taormina

Owner: Mario Dell’Oglio

Address: Corso Umberto I 170, 98039, Taormina (ME), Sicily Square Meters: 450

Website: doboutique.com

Best-selling Brands: Ami Paris, Canali, Casablanca, Golden Goose, Longchamp, Moon Boot, Moncler, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada, Rene Caovilla, Stone Island, Tagliatore, Ugg, Zimmerman Emerging Brands: Baziszt, Commas, Drôle de Monsieur, Hibourama, Loulou Studio, Marine Serre, Sole Studio, Sunflower

Some images of the Dell'Oglio D'O boutique in Taormina, Sicily.

Tell us about the new acquisitions.

We have acquired five stores in Taormina, where we offer our customers an experience that combines tourism, discovery of the region, and fashion. We focus heavily on the personalization of garments and we are investing to make every experience in our stores unique. Visiting Dell’Oglio means savoring Sicily, with its elegance made of courage, culture, and a touch of ‘sprezzatura’.

What are your future projects?

Among our future projects is the expansion of the Dell’Oglio line, first launched by my great-grandfather who, after opening the first store, started a bespoke shirt-making business. At the end of the 19th century, he mainly focused on making the body of the shirt, while the collar, which was stiff and worn separately, was produced elsewhere. Today, that same line has evolved into a total look that embodies our expertise in selecting the best made in Italy productions. This offering now represents more than half of the sales in our historic store.

MEN’S TAORMINA

Boutique Name: Dell’Oglio D’O

Address: Corso Umberto I, 1 & 79, 98039

Square Meters: 140 – 80

IN THE HEART OF ‘KOS’

A word that, in Norwegian, means many things: conviviality, well-being, warmth, sharing. Ferner Jacobsen is all of this, a boutique that has been synonymous with high quality and exclusivity in fashion since 1916

by Sara Fumagallo

Founded in 1916 in the heart of Oslo by Ferner Jacobsen, the eponymous boutique remains a landmark in the Norwegian fashion scene. This means carefully selecting prestigious brands that clients know and appreciate, while also keeping a keen eye on emerging, high-quality labels. This combination enriches and diversifies the store’s offerings, while maintaining a high level of exclusivity. Since its inception, Ferner Jacobsen has represented high fashion, standing out as one of the few stores operating in this market segment. Over a century later this is still a family-business, run by Carl-Christian Ferner and Jessica Ferner Johansen, third and fourth generation. We spoke with Carl-Christian Ferner, co-owner and buyer at Ferner Jacobsen.

When and where was your boutique born?

Our boutique was founded in 1916 in Oslo, thanks to the vision of my grandfather, Ferner Jacobsen. He laid the foundation for what today is a point of reference for high-quality fashion and exclusive service. Since then, we have grown and evolved, but we’ve always strived to keep alive the passion and commitment my grandfather instilled in us.

What is its mission and vision?

Our mission is simple but ambitious. To select and sell only high-quality brands, always at a fair price, and provide a service that not only meets but exceeds our clients’ expectations. We want to be

OVERVIEW

Boutique Name: Ferner Jacobsen

Owners: Jessica Ferner-Johansen and Carl-Christian Ferner

Address: Stortingsgaten 14, 0161 Oslo, Norway

Square Meters: 3,300

Website: fernerjacobsen.no

Top-selling Brands: Atelier Munro, Canada Goose, Corneliani, Gran Sasso, Joseph, Lottusse, Luigi Borrelli, Max Mara, Montecore, Polo Ralph Lauren, Tramarossa, Zegna

more than just a boutique; we aim to be a true destination for those seeking the best, offering world-class service to everyone. Every day, we work to realize this vision, knowing that quality and excellence are at the core of every experience we provide.

How important is the online presence today?

The online platform has become a vital part of our business, now representing about a third of our revenue. It is not only an essential component but also the fastest-growing sector.

How would you describe the boutique’s customer? What are their characteristics?

Our customers range from 27 to 75 years old, drawn to quality and classic style. However, we are also attracting a younger clientele, starting from 15 years old, thanks to brands like Tramarossa, MC2 Saint Barth, Gran Sasso, and Polo Ralph Lauren, which are also highly appreciated for schoolwear, often referred to as the ‘Norwegian school uniform’. This allows us to reach new generations while keeping our identity strong.

Future plans?

We always have our sights set on the future, but we will continue to carry our history in our hearts. We will strive to make our passion even stronger in our market. And of course, we will keep growing with our online business.

Some images of the interior and exterior of the Norwegian boutique Ferner Jacobsen

LUXURY IN CHINA: THE GREAT SLOWDOWN AND THE GRADUAL RECOVERY

Structural crisis or temporary phase? The Chinese luxury market is facing deep challenges. Recovery may only come by 2026

by Angelo Ruggeri

In recent years, the Chinese market has been a key pillar for global luxury brands. However, recent signals indicate a significant slowdown, highlighting how China is undergoing an economic and social transformation that is testing the sector. It is no longer a cyclical crisis but a structural weakness that could take years to overcome.

A changed economic context

A recent Barclays report analyzed the Chinese landscape, outlining a picture where many of the factors that fueled the demand for luxury goods seem to be under pressure. The main reasons include:

• Declining economic confidence: Poor returns from the stock market and real estate sector, coupled with high youth unemployment, have reduced the willingness to spend on luxury goods.

Flight of wealthy consumers: A significant number of affluent Chinese citizens have left the country, preferring to shop abroad, where prices are generally lower.

• Excessive price increases: Some brands have raised their prices by up to 50% over the past three years, an unsustainable trend that alienated many consumers.

• ‘Luxury shame’ and ‘common prosperity’: Cultural and political pressure against the display of consumption has introduced a sense of shame in showing wealth, negatively influencing luxury sales.

‘Luxury shame’: a new cultural paradigm

The concept of ‘luxury shame’ has emerged as one of the most unique challenges for the Chinese market. Indirectly

promoted by the government’s ‘common prosperity’ campaign, this phenomenon discourages the ostentatious consumption of luxury goods, traditionally associated with status and power. Influencers and celebrities promoting an opulent lifestyle have been banned, while interest in ‘sustainable’ and discreet luxury has increased. The consequence has been a redefinition of consumer behavior: fewer brands in the personal ‘Olympus’ of Chinese clients, fewer purchases, and a preference for products perceived as less elitist or more functional.

The struggles of big brands

The decline in Chinese demand has had a significant impact on the financials of many luxury giants. Brands like Burberry and those under the Kering group (Gucci and Saint Laurent) have seen a reduction in their performance in China. According to Flavio Cereda, co-investment manager at Gam Investments: ‘Luxury spending in China has decreased by between 15% and 20% year on year, with some brands losing up to 50% of their sales volume. Others, like Miu Miu from the Prada group, have grown by more than 50%, proving that the market still offers opportunities for brands that know how to adapt.’ The success of Miu Miu highlights the importance of innovation and proper positioning, but for many brands, the problem remains excessive pricing. To reverse the trend, a review of pricing policies and diversification of product lines will be necessary.

A crisis that affects everyone, but not equally Not all brands have been hit with the same intensity.

Moncler celebrates its bond with China at the Moncler Genius event

SUNKACHINA

Made for the sun, full of life.

Brunello Cucinelli and Moncler, for example, have maintained a limited number of stores in China, thus preserving the aura of exclusivity that is often rewarded in the luxury market. This approach is in contrast with those brands that have focused on an overly widespread presence, which has led to inflation in the eyes of consumers. Another key lesson has been the need for localized strategies. ‘Management must understand the Chinese mindset and adapt to the new consumer behaviors,’ Cereda emphasized.

Hope for the future: a revival by 2026?

Despite the current difficulties, experts predict that the Chinese luxury market could return to grow, but not before 2026. This time frame will be crucial for brands, which will need to invest in more targeted strategies.

Recommended actions include:

• Partnerships with local tech and e-commerce platforms: Collaborations with giants like Alibaba and JD.com can offer privileged access to digitized consumers.

• Experiential retail: Opening exclusive flagship stores is one way to create added value.

• Geographic diversification: As China slows down, brands are exploring new opportunities in emerging markets such as India, Indonesia, and Malaysia.

• Towards a new era of luxury in China

The luxury sector is at a crossroads. China, which for years has been the main driver of global growth, today presents a complex challenge. However, long-term fundamentals remain strong: the growth of the middle class and the increase in personal wealth indicate that the Chinese market will continue to offer opportunities. The key for brands will be to interpret the ongoing cultural and economic changes, adapting their approach to meet the needs of a more demanding and sophisticated clientele. With a clearer horizon by 2026, luxury could not only regain ground but also discover new ways to interact with the Chinese market, more suited to the times and the needs of a continuously transforming world.

Above: A moment from the Métiers d’art 24/25 collection show by Chanel in Hangzhou

Below: A moment from Brunello Cucinelli’s special event in Shanghai

TO KNOW HOW TO EVOKE EMOTIONS IS TO GROW

Despite the challenges of 2024, the fashion industry is preparing for a moderate recovery in 2025, supported by the decline in inflation and an improvement in the international landscape

by Sara Fumagallo

With its database of over 120,000 companies in Italy and more than 4 million globally, all operating in the fashion sector, Fashion Bank offers a detailed and updated overview of market performance in 2024, with a particular focus on stores, manufacturers, and distributors. What emerges is that, despite challenges related to stagnating domestic consumption and increasingly fierce competition, the sector seems ready to catch up. While 2024 is a year of adjustment, 2025 forecasts a moderate recovery. The ongoing evolution of distribution channels and innovative solutions for debt recovery and risk management will be essential to sustain future growth. It is crucial for retailers to maintain a strong appeal for their stores, offering customers a unique shopping experience. It’s important to evoke emotions and attract customers through special initiatives, well-curated shop windows, exclusive events, and unique products.

Performance

The total revenue of the fashion sector reached 102 bil-

MARKET

lion euros in 2023, an increase of 4.1% compared to 2022. However, 2024 is expected to see a contraction, with revenue falling below 100 billion euros, mainly due to a difficult start of the year and still-weak domestic demand. A recovery is expected for 2025, supported by a decline in inflation and improvements in the international landscape. Exports continue to show positive results. For the fall-winter 2024 season, data reveals a 9.4% decrease in sales compared to the same season of the previous year, signaling a slight decline in the performance of many brands in the sector. The analysis highlights that the average payment terms for fashion retailers in Italy are 106 days, suggesting some difficulty for retailers in meeting payment deadlines. At the same time, the reliability of fashion stores has decreased by 6% compared to the early months of 2023, but 67% of stores remain reliable. Regarding the trend of store openings and closures, 2024 saw a net loss of 705 shops. Despite this, the sentiment towards clothing remains positive: while demand is stable, it is not fully influenced by macroeconomic difficulties, thanks to a sector recovery during the summer

TREND (2023 vs 2024)

Source: SitaRicerca

A photo of the Eredi Chiarini boutique in Florence

Source: SitaRicerca

and early autumn months. The highest sales are concentrated in Lombardy, Veneto, Campania, Tuscany, and Lazio, but when considering sales in relation to the resident population, regions like Marche and Trentino-Alto Adige also report particularly strong performance.

Sales Channels

From January to September 2024, the fashion sector recorded 14.1 billion euros in spending, an increase of 0.8% compared to the same period the previous year. The average price per item also rose to 17.3 euros (+1.1%), while purchase frequency slightly decreased, with foot traffic dropping by 0.2%. Despite fewer visitors to stores, conversion rates increased, especially in factory outlet centers (FOCs). Monobrand stores are gaining ground, while independent stores are experiencing slight contraction. Large-scale retail (GDO) is also reducing the space allocated to clothing due to increasing competition from marketplaces and discounters. This long-term trend indicates a shift in consumer preferences toward direct distribution models.

Forecasts

The performance of the sector is also influenced by key macroeconomic factors such as GDP and inflation. In 2024, GDP is expected to grow by 0.6%, while

inflation has stabilized at 1.1%. Household consumption remains stagnant in 2024 (-0.1%), but a recovery is expected in 2025, with 1% growth driven by improved purchasing power. The clothing sector saw a modest increase (+0.8%) in the January-September 2024 period, but it continues to be around 4% below pre-COVID levels. Forecasts for the last quarter of 2024 predict further recovery, with a positive trend expected to solidify in 2025, thanks to stabilized inflation and a strong employment outlook.

Source: Fashion Bank

The chart highlights the trend of reliability of multi-brand fashion stores in Italy over the last five years: between 2022 and 2023 a clear improvement thanks to the post-Covid recovery can be noted

FORECASTS

The first nine months of 2024 saw a slight increase of 0.8%. A further recovery is expected in the last quarter, with improvement anticipated in 2025

Source: SitaRicerca

DYNAMIC ELEGANCE

The FW 25 collection by Arovescio is an invitation to rediscover the beauty of made in Italy craftsmanship with a contemporary and uncompromising vision. Designed for a man who lives every moment with intensity

The new winter collection by Arovescio aims to redefine the balance between sartorial tradition and modernity. Designed for a man who lives every moment with intensity, FW 25 is an invitation to rediscover the beauty of made in Italy through the use of fine materials such as pure wool and cashmere blends, which provide both comfort and refinement. Each piece is the result of expert craftsmanship and tells a story of passion and care, with details and stylistic choices designed to meet the needs of a man who refuses to compromise on quality in his everyday life. It is a testament to how traditional skills can meet technical innovation, giving life to creations with clean lines and unmistakable details.

Craftsmanship

The autumn-winter 2025 collection is much more than just a collection. It is a tribute to timeless elegance, a journey through Italian tailoring culture that combines the best of the past with the needs of the present. The man who wears Arovescio does not simply follow fashion; he interprets it, making it his own in an original and authentic way. One element that immediately captures attention is the use of airbrush techniques: a method that enhances the surfaces of the products with unexpected shades and color gradients. The dyes, never predictable, are designed to make each piece unique, enriched with a distinctive character that only craftsmanship can provide. The tones range from the most classic to the most modern, creating a versatile color palette.

Some photos of the new 2025 winter collection by Arovescio

NFT MARKETPLACE:

SIGNS OF A FINISHED TREND?

Nike shuts down Rtfkt, but sales data still shows signs of life in the sector

di Angelo Ruggeri

In recent years, NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) have been celebrated as the new frontier of digital creativity and virtual commerce. However, increasingly evident signs suggest that the initial enthusiasm is waning. One of the most significant episodes of this decline phase is Nike’s announcement: starting in January 2025, the sportswear giant will shut down the Rtfkt (Artifact) platform, which it acquired in 2021 to ride the NFT wave.

Rtfkt: from success to sunset

Founded in 2020, Rtfkt stood out in the NFT landscape for its pioneering vision: creating synergy between the physical and digital worlds. After being acquired by Nike, the startup became the center of innovative initiatives like the Nike Cryptokicks, sneakers for the metaverse launched in 2022 and sold at astronomical prices of around 8,500 euros. The collaboration between Rtfkt and Nike also produced unique items such as the custom Ledger Nano, merging fashion, security, and technology. Despite these successes, Rtfkt failed to maintain momentum. The drop in sales and the fluctuating demand for NFTs led to the decision to shut down. The platform will bid farewell to the market with a final collection, Blade Drop, aimed at celebrating the innovation and creativity that defined the brand. As stated by the company on social media, the goal is to leave a legacy that can inspire future creators.

Not just Nike: the sector is cracking Rtfkt’s closure is not an isolated case. Kraken, one of the leading cryptocurrency exchanges, also recently announced the closure of its NFT marketplace, following the footsteps of GameStop, which abandoned the sector in February 2023. The dominant narrative seems clear: many companies that had invested in the NFT boom are scaling back or even abandoning their projects. This trend reflects a broader reality: the NFT market has radically changed since its peak. In March 2024, sales volumes had reached 1.6 billion dollars, a historic record. However, the low point reached in September, with sales of just 303 million dollars, demonstrated how volatile and vulnerable the sector can be.

Contradictory signals: end or metamorphosis?

Paradoxically, while some companies are leaving the scene, recent data suggests that the sector may not be entirely in decline. In November, the NFT sales volume rose to 562 million dollars, marking the best result in the last six months and a significant increase from October's 356 million. This could indicate a phase of consolidation, where the market is adapting to a more realistic and sustainable demand. NFTs are no longer the ‘miracle product’ that promised to revolutionize every sector, but they remain a technology with potential applications in fields like gaming, digital art, and rights management. The question is not whether NFTs are dead, but rather how they will evolve to meet the new needs of the market and consumers.

What does the Rtfkt story teach us?

The Rtfkt case highlights some important lessons for the sector. First, the need to quickly adapt to market changes: what was innovative yesterday may not be relevant today. Second, the sustainability of an NFT-based business depends on the ability to offer real value to consumers, whether experiential, artistic, or economic. Finally, the consolidation of the sector may favor more solid and less speculative projects, bringing NFTs into a phase of maturity.

Top: Kraken, one of the leading cryptocurrency exchanges Below: the exclusive collaboration between Rtfkt and Nike

THE SIMPLICITY OF BEAUTY

In the world of men’s fashion, few brands manage to combine elegance, comfort, and quality as flawlessly as Lorenzoni. It is a refined balance between craftsmanship, functionality, and contemporary design

Lorenzoni knows how to turn simplicity into an art, transforming each garment into a statement of understated elegance. These are not flamboyant or ostentatious pieces, but rather garments that express an intrinsic beauty, a silent luxury that shines through the quality of the materials, clean lines, and carefully studied details. The new winter line stands out for the use of fine yarns, chosen for their lightness and ability to gently caress the skin, offering warm, enveloping protection against the cold. Every piece is crafted with meticulous care, designed to ensure maximum comfort without ever compromising on style. The delicate knitwear and enveloping cardigans, with their sophisticated craftsmanship, evoke tapestries of another time, threads intertwined to tell stories of artisanal mastery.

Some images from Lorenzoni FW 25/26

The Modernity of Tradition

Comforting volumes and shapes clash with modern proportions, creating a look that merges functionality and style without excess. The collection is painted in a symphony of soft, enveloping hues, designed to meet the aesthetic needs of the modern man. The base of the palette is made of neutral, luminous tones, with an ecru that highlights the purity of the design. But the true innovation of this season lies in the two exclusive colors Lorenzoni introduced into its collection: fresh and natural sage green, and delicate, sophisticated dusty mauve. To these, a deep, rich bordeaux is added, which brings a touch of luxury without ever being excessive. This harmony of colors is not merely an aesthetic choice, but an invitation to experience luxury in a discreet way, without ostentation. Each shade contributes to creating an atmosphere of sober elegance, finding its strength in the purity of the lines and the quality of the materials.

A WARM EMBRACE

Classic and contemporary, Sebago’s elegance combines timeless style with modern design, as demonstrated in the new collection for the upcoming winter season

Sebago, an icon of style and craftsmanship, arrives at Pitti Immagine Uomo with a FW 25 collection that celebrates its timeless essence: classicism and quality. Famous for the legendary penny loafer, the brand has gone beyond its origins in recent years, expanding its offerings into the apparel world to present a total look that redefines menswear in a modern and sophisticated way. The collection unfolds through well-defined stylistic lines, each with a strong and distinctive personality, blending into a vision of contemporary elegance. The theme of layering and a genderless sensibility dominate the scene, expressing a refined balance between tradition and innovation. The Blazer breathes new life into the jacket, combining classic tailoring with modern details for a

Some details of The Anglo-American Coat line

versatile and relaxed elegance. With Classic Chino, Sebago pays homage to the chino pants, offering versions that range from formal to casual, maintaining an elegance that never goes out of style. Utility Wear takes inspiration from workwear, transforming it into essential pieces that combine functionality and style. Hurricane begins with a reinterpretation of the iconic 1980s sneaker and extends into outerwear, with pieces like the Hurricane Diaz jacket in technical nylon, paying tribute to the brand’s nautical heritage with a perfect blend of practicality and modern design. Finally, The Anglo-American Coat merges British rigor with American practicality, creating timeless coats and jackets that highlight the craftsmanship with a relaxed, contemporary touch. Footwear, the beating heart of the brand, continues to stand out with a collection that explores Sebago’s three pillars. Citysides celebrates the classic loafer with models like Ales, adorned with refined fringes, and Joe Modena, featuring a metal bit. Campsides, designed for outdoor enthusiasts, offers shoes that combine leather and fabric, perfect for those who live for nature, but also for those who appreciate an urban look with a wild spirit. The Docksides boat shoe, an icon of the brand, is reinvented with hammered leather uppers, ideal for winter while maintaining the allure of the boat look. At Pitti Uomo, Sebago presents more than just a collection: it tells a story. It’s the journey of a brand that evolves gracefully, never betraying its roots, blending heritage and modernity. Once again, Sebago is confirmed as a reference for those seeking quality, versatility, and an elegance that defies time.

A shot from the Sebago FW 25 collection, featuring the Joe Modena loafer with a metal bit

PIONEERS OF BOUNDLESS FASHION

For over 30 years, ESC Group established itself as an essential reference point in the fashion world, distinguished by its ability to evolve and respond to market dynamics

by Maria Pina Ciuffreda

ESC Group’s origins date back to 1977, when Giorgio Magello Mantovani, a ski instructor and windsurfing pioneer in Italy, recognized the importance of adopting a distinctive approach in the sportswear sector, focused more on design than functionality. This pioneering vision placed him among the forerunners of sportswear, a segment that would profoundly shape the evolution of fashion in the decades to come. Today, the company is a true 4.0 agency, expertly combining the potential of digital and traditional communications to redefine the shopping experience. We spoke with Giorgio Magello Mantovani, the company’s owner.

How is it possible to achieve such success in an environment of economic uncertainty and market trends fluctuations?

Our success is the result of multiple factors. First and foremost, our rational passion for our work, which demands continuous research for the best results, always with a focus on growth. This attitude allowed us to maximize sales and profitability for the companies trusting us, as well as for customers who expect quick responses and concrete solutions. We aim to innovate with increasingly pragmatic and fast approaches to tackle market challenges. The credit goes primarily to our collaborators, who form a cohesive and harmonious team of unique talents. Among our core values are credibility, followed by consistency and respect.

What new developments does ESC Group have in store for 2025? Every three years, we set ourselves extremely challenging goals, and I can say that 2025 will mark the realization of all the ‘wants’ we have planned. Among the most important news, I can announce our partnership with Guess, where we are involved with the men’s, women’s, kids’ lines, and accessories. This is a crucial milestone for our

development, particularly in the women’s segment, for which we have created a dedicated team that occupies a privileged space inside our headquarters, covering about 2,500 square meters. In addition, we are enhancing our offering with new prestigious brands in the leather goods and accessories sectors, with two partnerships that we will unveil at Pitti. Last December, we inaugurated a new 730-square-meter office space dedicated to our historic collections, which are of great value to us, such as RRD, Replay, North Sails, Us Polo Assn., Gallo, Aquascutum, and H953. We are also returning to the kids’ segment, which we had temporarily abandoned.

A truly comprehensive and enriching outlook.

We believe that offering excellence means having a vertical specialization, but at the same time, adopting a 360-degree approach that encompasses diversified experiences. For example, in the footwear sector, there will be new developments, such as our collaboration with Patrizio Di Marco (former ceo of Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Golden Goose), who involved us in the relaunch of Pro Keds, a historic brand from the 1970s. We are confident that this line of sneakers will offer an innovative and impactful proposition for high-end/premium stores.

Would you like to share anything with us in advance?

2025 will be the year of the massive adoption of artificial intelligence, in which we have invested time and resources. We are preparing to use AI to optimize a large part of our operational activities, aware that at least 50% of the dynamics of both physical and omnichannel sales will undergo radical changes. We want to play a leading role in this transformation, continuing to diverge and increase our competitiveness.

An image of the interior and exterior of ESC Group’s headquarters, and the new office location

THE NEW DIMENSION OF SPORT

Macron Clubhouse is the fusion of sport and lifestyle looking to the future. A symbol of belonging to a community that loves both sport and innovative style, the brand presents its new collection at Pitti

Macron, an icon of technical sportswear, expands its horizons with Macron Clubhouse, a line that blends sport and fashion to revolutionize the concept of activewear. With a strong presence in over 90 countries and a commitment to innovation, the Bologna-based company is preparing for a new era, where sustainability and made in Italy become central values. The second season of Clubhouse makes its debut at Pitti Immagine Uomo 107, with a collection that is not just about clothing, but an experience celebrating the union of performance and style.

From Bologna to the world

Founded in 1971, Macron has become a global icon thanks to a mix of innovative design, advanced technology, and a keen focus on customization. ‘Our strength lies in qualitative excellence and the ability to inspire teams and athletes,’ says Gianluca Pavanello, ceo of the company. Despite its international expansion, Bologna remains the beating heart of the brand. The Macron Campus, a cutting-edge center designed with a focus on sustainability, continues to grow, solidifying Macron’s

The Frank double chest coat, a relaxed fit, reverless, made of wool and neoprene bonded fabric, is part of the FW 25/26 collection by Clubhouse

A lifestyle between sport and fashion

With Macron Clubhouse, the brand enters the world of lifestyle, offering a collection that combines technical features with sophisticated style. Inspired by the social spaces of padel and sports Clubhouses, this line is designed for those seeking garments that combine functionality and Italian design. The men’s collection focuses on fitness training, while the women’s collection is inspired by yoga and holistic practices. ‘Macron Clubhouse redefines sportswear by combining technical, breathable, and durable fabrics with exclusive design details,’ explains Pavanello. Each piece represents a symbol of belonging to a community that shares a love for sport and a search for distinctive style. The distribution will follow a targeted approach: high-fashion boutiques and dedicated concept stores will complement the global network of Macron Sports Hub.

Italian style as dna

For Macron, made in Italy is not just a label, but a value that guides every creation. Each piece is accompanied by the words ‘Designed in Bologna’ highlighting the connection with the Italian tradition of beauty, art, and design. This philosophy is also reflected in the company’s slogan, #BecomeYourOwnHero, an invitation to surpass one’s limits, both on the field and in everyday life. Macron Clubhouse is not just a collection, but the future of sports lifestyle, where the brand’s technical dna intertwines with the elegance of Italian design.

Two images of the Zoe double-breasted coat, in white wool and neoprene bonded fabric, relaxed fit with neoprene details

THE MAGIC OF COLOR BY BOB

BOB is not just a fashion brand, but a life philosophy inspired by an imaginary character: Bob. The new collection embodies all of his dynamism and translates it into a proposal focused on knitwear

Founded in 2005, BOB is a brand rooted in a creative and ironic vision, inspired by an imaginary character who reflects the essence of the brand: an optimistic, elegant, sporty, cheerful individual ready to have fun. A figure that embodies Bob’s philosophy—a brand that doesn’t just produce clothing but creates true textile works of art for those seeking something more than a simple trend.

‘I’m Bob, therefore I am’

This is BOB’s motto, inviting each individual to express their own uniqueness. The heart of the brand lies in its passion for manual craftsmanship, combined with a constant search for innovation. The craftsmanship and attention to detail are the fundamental pillars of a product that stands out in the made in Italy landscape. Each piece is created with the typical dedication of traditional textile craftsmanship but is also enriched with a touch of modernity, thanks to the innovative use of colors, materials, and design. The result is collections that embody lightness of spirit, irony, and casual elegance, designed for men of all ages.

A Sophisticated and Comfortable Total Look

The new collection primarily focuses on knitwear, a distinctive feature of the brand. Printed yarns, original patterns, and three-dimensional effects enrich each piece, while handmade customizations such as embroidery, appliqués, and special dyeing techniques make every item unique. The attention to detail extends beyond the aesthetic aspect to also embrace sustainability: all yarns used are certified GRS (Global Recycled Standard), ensuring responsible production that is environmentally conscious. A new feature is the innovative dyeing concept. What was once exclusive to cotton is now applied to extra-fine Merino wool, creating a clean and dynamic look that gives the garments a modern and refined appearance. The knitwear, made from 100% cotton, features a texture reminiscent of bouclé wool, offering both a winter aesthetic and a soft, enveloping tactile sensation. Outerwear, a key component of the collection, is another highlight. For this season, BOB offers an exclusive blend of premium fibers such as cotton, silk, and cashmere, merged with wool in a unique jersey fabric.

Some images of the collection by BOB

A MEETING WITH HISTORY

Astorflex reinterprets a Japanese infantry boot from World War II, blending tradition, craftsmanship, and innovation

Military clothing has always been a source of inspiration to create practical and functional designs, from jackets and backpacks to shoes and accessories. In this context, a particular discovery caught Astorflex’s attention: a Japanese infantry boot from World War II. Fascinated by its solid and intelligent construction, the brand decided to reinterpret this historic model, adapting it to modern needs while retaining its essence.

The new model

A key feature of the original boot was its double sole, designed to facilitate resoling. Astorflex chose to preserve this characteristic by handcrafting a sole made of two layers: one of

leather stitched to the upper and one of leather and rubber, also stitched to the base. The original sole, which contained metal nails, has been reinterpreted with anti-slip rubber lugs, ensuring greater comfort and grip. The upper, originally made from pigskin, has been replaced with vegetable-tanned calf leather, a more durable and healthy material. Additionally, a calf leather and memory foam insole has been integrated to improve the fit and offer superior comfort. The result is a shoe that combines tradition and innovation, where craftsmanship and attention to detail merge with functionality, satisfying those who seek high-quality, durable, and practical products. With this new offering, Astorflex presents a modern interpretation of an enduring classic, without compromise.

Some images of the Astorflex ankle boot

ABSOLUTELY MADE IN ITALY

Daniele Fiesoli Italia continues to redefine the concept of masculine elegance, choosing noble, high-quality materials and demonstrating that fashion and responsibility can coexist in perfect balance

Daniele Fiesoli Italia celebrates the perfect union of craftsmanship tradition and modernity in its new FW 25/26 collection. Divided into three main lines—Armadio, Lab, and the brand-new Botanica capsule—the collection presents a vision of men’s fashion that blends quality, sustainability, and design. Daniele Fiesoli, the founder of the eponymous made in Italy brand, leads the company with a strategic vision and a practical approach focused on real value. The distribution, 65% international, focuses on the North American, Japanese, Korean, and DACH regions. After a successful 2024, the company aims for steady growth, enhancing its women’s collection while combining excellence, innovation, and sustainability.

Armadio. The Heart of the Collection

The Armadio line embodies the essence of the contemporary men’s wardrobe. Designed to offer essential and versatile pieces, Armadio revolves around luxurious materials such as ultrafine Merino wool, cashmere, camel, and alpaca, combined to ensure comfort and refinement. Key pieces include padded and lined sweaters that transform into sophisticated outerwear, perfect for replacing a down jacket but in a more elegant form. The concept of layering dominates the mood of the season: shirts over pullovers, knitted jackets, and overshirts create practical, stylistically impeccable layers. The color palette plays on natural tones: warm browns, leather accents, deep blues, and ice tones alternate to create a balanced and modern effect. Within the line, the subcategory Selezione stands out for its use of even more exclusive materials, such as combed cashmere or

Yak wool combined with alpaca, interpreted in essential pieces like joggers and knit t-shirts.

Lab. Where Craftsmanship and Experimentation Meet Lab is the creative workshop of the brand, where research and innovation reach their full expression. Inspired by the landscapes of Northern England and the resilience of nature, the Lab line tells the regenerative power of the natural world through evocative textures and unique craftsmanship. Twisted yarns recall the bark of trees, while inlays and jacquard patterns reproduce natural elements like trunks and leaves. The silhouettes, wide and modern, range from enveloping knitted jackets to oversized pullovers with dropped shoulders. The palette draws on earthy colors—warm browns, beige, and touches of moss green—to create a visual and emotional connection with the environment.

Botanica. The Sustainable Luxury of Cashmere

The standout feature of the winter collection is Botanica, a capsule that reinterprets the excellence of cashmere with a sustainable twist. Made of 20 pieces, it uses both pure and recycled cashmere, processed with low environmental impact techniques. Vegetable dyes, derived from natural pigments from plants, flowers, and roots, provide authentic colors, while salt dyeing creates a natural ‘stone’ effect without chemicals. The palette, inspired by nature, blends earthy tones with vibrant shades of green. More than just a collection, Botanica is a manifesto of responsibility, merging beauty, awareness, and harmony with the environment.

Some images from the FW 25/26 collection by Daniele Fiesoli Italia

A NEW MEN’S SUIT

Consolidated as one of the most respected brands in the men’s fashion landscape, Ten c – The Emperor’s New Clothes – is synonymous with quality, research, and innovation

Ten c keeps modelling its own distinctive path in the men’s fashion landscape, a journey that has always blended sartorial elegance with the search for functionality and innovation. Founded under the guidance of FGF Industry Spa and visionary Enzo Fusco, the brand has won the hearts of enthusiasts for its ability to create timeless pieces, free of logos but deeply defined by the quality of materials and uncompromising design. This season, under the creative direction of Alessandro Pungetti, marks a further evolution of the brand, raising the bar in the quest for a perfect balance between contemporary forms and a careful reworking of traditions.

The new collection

The autumn-winter 2025 collection embodies a contemporary vision of fashion, where color, material, and functionality intertwine in perfect harmony. One of the most significant innovations is the concept of the men’s suit, blending the world of tailoring with technical apparel. The fabrics are carefully selected to create a ton sur ton effect, giving the look a cohesive

feel. In line with the ongoing search for materials that combine aesthetics and performance, Gabardine Gommato makes its debut in the collection as a new frontier in textile innovation. This fabric, with its rubberized internal coating, is waterproof and durable, making it perfect for outerwear, which is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist. Iconic pieces like the Fishtail Short Parka, Overcoat, Surcoat, and Field Work Jacket are updated with new finishes and features, yet remain true to the essence that made them famous. The color palette is inspired by earthy tones. The shades range from rust to burnt orange, with a variety of browns, evoking the warm, enveloping hues of nature. Terra di Siena (Siena Earth), with its intensity and uniqueness, takes center stage this season—not only for its strong symbolic value but also for its practical use. The OJJ fabric is dyed with this earth by hand, giving the clothes shades that range from oxidized to rusty, making each garment completely unique.

A selection of pieces from Ten c autumn-winter 2025 collection

THE NEW FACE OF

ELEGANCE

Gran Sasso expands its offering, not only through knitwear, the brand’s beating heart, but also by providing an innovative total look, meticulously crafted in every detail

Founded in 1952 as a small family business in Sant’Egidio alla Vibrata, in Abruzzo, Gran Sasso has since become a symbol of excellence in the international landscape of luxury made in Italy knitwear. Founded by brothers Nello, Eraldo, Alceo, and Francesco Di Stefano, its history is intertwined with that of knitwear, built on passion, innovation, and a constant pursuit of perfection. Today, thanks to its innovation, the company can be defined as an Industry 4.0 business, producing garments that have become synonymous with craftsmanship, blending tradition and modernity, always with respect for environmental sustainability.

A perfect combination

For the autumn-winter 2025 season, the brand presents a fusion of tradition and innovation. The color palette ranges from sugar paper to brick red and peat, with shades that blend harmoniously with beige and grays, creating a chromatic balance that recalls the beauty of natural landscapes. The search for

new textures and volumes is the heart of the collection, enriched with natural and precious yarns such as Shetland wool, crafted to enhance its softness and durability. Traditionally used for simple or intarsia knits, it is here reinterpreted in new shapes to highlight its texture and warmth. An innovative yarn in pure wool, available in three different colors, gives life to pieces such as turtlenecks and cable-knit jackets, which capture the contemporary spirit of the modern man. Finally, alcantara transforms, moving from a smooth version to a worked variant, creating a velvet-like effect that plays between modernity and retro references. Cashmere, the true symbol of Gran Sasso’s quality, takes center stage in the collection. Among the highlights are jackets and vests in Felted Cashmere, a contemporary take on the classic yarn, which becomes more durable and softer, like a second skin. The collection also includes pieces in Rain Wool, a sustainable offering that combines protection from the elements with environmental respect, thanks to ecoTeflon treatment.

Some images from the Gran Sasso autumn-winter 2025 collection

URBAN DYNAMISM

Enterprise Japan presents the FW 25/26 collection at Pitti 107, a meeting of Italian craftsmanship and Japanese aesthetics. Iconic sneakers that blend tradition and innovation to redefine urban luxury

Enterprise Japan unveils its new winter collection at the Florence event, celebrating style and craftsmanship that reinterprets the concept of sneakers through the fusion of Italian and Japanese cultures. A brand that doesn’t follow time but shapes it, embodying authentic and everyday luxury. Based on an international vision and rooted in Italian savoir-faire, Enterprise Japan represents a creative bridge between the manufacturing tradition of the Marche region and Japanese design, inspired by the pop culture of the ‘70s/’80s. Each model tells a story where material and quality merge, creating footwear that expresses timeless beauty. At the heart of the new collection is the Japanese concept of Shibui, which celebrates imperfection and the intrinsic beauty of passing time. This philosophy translates into models that mix vintage lines with innovation, creating a link between the past and the future.

ENTJPN Essence

Egg Rocket, Run Rocket, and Jupiter Rocket: three iconic models define the FW 25/26 collection. The Egg Rocket, the foundational model of the brand, evokes the charm of the past with essential lines and artisanal details. The Dandy variant stands out for its use of nubuck and velour, with desaturated tones and ultra-soft textures, while the limited edition Mountain LTD combines robust suede and tobacco-toned fabrics, enhanced by the double lace for a durable and sophisticated look. The Run Rocket celebrates running, blending vintage aesthetics with technological innovation. Their lightness and urban adaptability

make them ideal for those seeking comfort without sacrificing style. Among the interpretations, the Metal Heritage model stands out, featuring laminated nappa leather and mesh details for a nod to activewear, while the Cracklé edition, with worneffect surfaces, amplifies the unique character of the design. The Jupiter Rocket model embodies the nostalgic taste of the brand. Made of high-quality leather with suede inserts and old-school details, it pays homage to the golden years of pop culture. The line includes the Stud model, enriched with applied studs and a Strobel construction for optimal comfort, while the LTD version, in contrasting calf leather and suede, represents the pinnacle of luxury athleisure.

Some iconic models from the FW 25/26 collection by Enterprise Japan: at the top, the Egg Rocket in brown tones, above the limited edition studded Stud of the Jupiter Rocket model, and on the left the Run Rocket in cracked suede

ON THE GO

As every year, Kangra presents a collection designed to combine traditional craftsmanship with the most sophisticated innovations

Kangra keeps on surprising everybody with its ability to reinvent seasonal clothing while never betraying its artisanal roots. The collection dives in a palette that recalls the colors of the sea and earth, with shades ranging from deep, cool blues to warm, sandy, and earthy hues. A groundbreaking innovation this year is the introduction of silk/cashmere, a combination that feels soft to the touch and has an informal appearance, perfect for those seeking high-quality pieces with a casual fit. Another innovation is the use of viscose, a lightweight and breathable textile fiber that gives garments a refined look and superior comfort, ideal to wear directly against the skin. Classic combinations that have made Kangra famous are also present, such as silk/cotton, a material that, thanks to its unique texture and natural tones, best expresses the brand’s elegance. But this year, there’s a noteworthy addition: the pairing of two very different but complementary fibers—silk and linen. When combined, they create an effect that blends rusticity with sophistication, resulting in pieces with modern, elegant lines. The collection also introduces new cotton weaves, with irregular stitches and links that create a sense of dynamism, perfect for a man who desires a sophisticated look even during his leisure time. High and low stripes add an urban, streetwear touch, seamlessly aligning with contemporary trends. A standout feature of the season is the ‘stone’ package, a line developed in different weights and colors that gives the collection a sporty yet precious edge—ideal for a casual yet never mundane look.

Some images of Kangra’s summer collection

THE POWER OF NATURE

Dolomite presents the Saxifraga 2.0 | Glacial Vistas capsule collection in collaboration with Rayon Vert, exploring new aesthetic horizons for outdoor gear, blending performance with sophisticated design

In the heart of the Alps, where nature’s resilience is reflected in the blooming of Saxifraga, comes Dolomite’s new capsule collection: Saxifraga 2.0 | Glacial Vistas. This project, born from the collaboration with the design studio Rayon Vert, explores new aesthetic codes for outdoor wear and reinterprets the concept of performance footwear in a contemporary key, offering a stylistic and functional evolution for nature and adventure enthusiasts.

The Theme: Glacial Vistas

Inspired by mountain landscapes where water, stone, and ice blend in a play of textures and colors, the collection combines the natural beauty of glaciers with innovative design. The

result is a mix of rough materials and more streamlined surfaces, in a color palette that echoes the grey of the rocks and the delicate shades of glacial waters. The Saxifraga 2.0 High and Saxifraga 2.0 Warm models are designed for fast-hiking and excursions on non-technical terrain, while also offering an urban look suitable for metropolitan settings. Key technical features include the Vibram sole with Traction Lug Technology, the thermoregulating Primaloft layer with P.U.R.E. Technology, and Kevlar threads in the upper.

Some images of the Saxifraga 2.0 Glacial Vistas collection by Dolomite

ICONIC WINTER

Colmar Originals is getting ready to face winter 2025 with a collection that combines elegance, comfort, and innovation, featuring puffy and down jackets as well as a complete and versatile total look

The Italian brand Colmar Originals continues to meet the needs of every customer, offering garments suitable for any activity—from city walks to outdoor sports—without sacrificing style. The big news for FW 25/26 is the expansion of the total look concept, which goes beyond traditional puffer jackets and coats, presenting a complete collection designed to face the cold in the perfect way. The color palette of the collection is fresh and vibrant, featuring pastel shades and bright details aimed at a youthful audience. Key pieces of the season include puffy down jackets, made even more original with a new geometric ethnic fabric, as well as modern, functional jackets designed for everyday comfort. For men, the brand offers basic items, reinterpreted with innovative details such as matte crinkled fabric and distinctive zippers. The lightweight, comfortable parkas are enhanced with soft padding, making them less bulky while still warm. Reversible wool tech jackets and hybrid pieces with quilted chests and wool sleeves are perfect for the mid-season. Additionally, biker-style jackets and removable vests complete the collection. For women, the collection features pieces with jacquard fabric details and puffy effects resembling wool. Ecofriendly and reversible fur coats make a return, along with glossy fabric jackets and velvet down jackets. A new addition to the collection are the terry cloth jackets. The total look for women also includes cashmere and wool blend knitwear, striped velour tracksuits, and bouclé sweatshirts. Cotton flannel shirts represent a fresh take on the winter wardrobe. With such a versatile collection, Colmar Originals confirms its position as the ideal brand for those seeking quality, originality, and comfort, even in the coldest months.

Some shots from Colmar Originals FW 25/26 campaign ‘On the Move’

UNIQUE CRAFTSMANSHIP

From Japanese canvas to innovative parkas, through the iconic Scrambler sneaker (vintage), Benci Brothers renews its commitment to excellence, functionality, and responsibility

Benci Brothers, the Swiss brand that has conquered the world of luxury footwear and accessories, continues its quest for timeless quality with a series of new collections celebrating craftsmanship and innovative design. Founded in 2011, the company is synonymous with passion for high-quality materials and traditional manufacturing, with a strong focus on sustainability and responsible production.

From Japan...

One of the most interesting new features is the Japanese canvas collection, a tribute to the strength and durability of this timeless fabric. Made in collaboration with Japanese artisans, the line includes a tote bag, three-size pouch and a backpack, all characterized by waxed canvas, durable and water-repellent. The accessories in brass and Japanese saddle leather complete the refined look, which stands out for its resistance to weather and high-quality workmanship.

To Switzerland

Another strong point of the season is the collaboration with Caduff Switzerland, which brings a new dimension to the concept of luxury outdoor clothing. The Japanese jersey parka, designed for the nautical industry, is the beating heart of the collection, a masterpiece that combines aesthetics and performance. The Eco-Down Jacket in recycled ripstop nylon, with PET padding from recycled bottles, completes the offer, guaranteeing comfort, thermal insulation and versatility. A touch of elegance is infused by the Merino wool cap.

The Scrambler returns (vintage)

An icon since 2012, the Scrambler returns in a ‘vintage’ style

thanks to the Re.Love program, which allows fans to buy used models, thus promoting a more conscious approach to fashion. Produced in the Marche region, the sneaker is made with high quality calfskin, sewn soles and a removable footbed for unmatched comfort. The stonewashed technique, then, gives each pair a unique character, making every shoe an

The Eco-Down Jacket in partnership with Caduff Switzerland and the return of the iconic Scramblers through the Re.Love program

Backpack and pouch created in collaboration with Japanese artisans

CONVERSATIONS ‘WITH FRIENDS’

At the heart of ENTRE AMIS’s philosophy is the concept of style without excesses. It’s not just about clothes, but to offer a flawless fit that meets the needs of those who seek elegance everyday without sacrificing practicality

Born in 2010 in Naples, ENTRE AMIS is a brand that combines the sartorial excellence of the Neapolitan tradition with a modern and sophisticated vision, addressing new generations. Its mission is clear: to create garments that start from tailoring excellence to become style models for the contemporary man, elegant but without excesses. Immediately recognized for its ability to reinterpret the codes of the Neapolitan tailoring tradition in a modern key, the label has conquered the national market and made its way abroad, becoming one of the most internationally appreciated brands in the menswear’s world. With deep made in Italy roots, the brand embodies values of manufacturing quality, craftsmanship and Neapolitan tailoring, without ever forgetting the ability to innovate.

The collection

Designer Vittorio Di Giacomo’s FW 25/26 collection represents a significant upgrade of the brand’s style. Alongside the iconic models that made ENTRE AMIS famous, the new line enhances a softer fit and innovative details, without ever losing sight of the heart of the brand: Neapolitan tailoring. The garments are made with fabrics of the highest quality, such as fine wool, mixed with cashmere and linen, for a feeling of unparalleled comfort. The exclusive patterns, soft velvets and dyed cotton in the garment, expertly hand-worked, are the background to a color palette that recalls the shades of autumn nature: from natural to beige and camel tones, through intense green and blue. In addition to the tailoring pants line, which remains the beating heart, the collection also features a denim line, developed on a wide range of fabrics and hand-crafted washes. A perfect balance between elegance and functionality, which confirms the brand’s ability to respond to the needs of an increasingly attentive audience.

A shot of the ENTRE AMIS FW 25/26 collection

URBAN SEA WOLF

Sealup, always an excellence in rainwear and outerwear made in Italy, celebrates tradition and innovation in the spring-summer 2025 collection. A perfect balance between sartorial design and hi-tech

Founded in Milan in 1935, Sealup is synonymous with Italian excellence in rainwear and luxury outerwear made in Italy. With an integrated industrial structure in Lomazzo (CO) and Calusco d’Adda (BG), the company combines advanced machinery, highly qualified workforce and high quality materials. Innovation, sustainability and respect for traditional craftsmanship drive the brand, which stands out for its sober and contemporary design. The name Sealup, a fusion of ‘Sea’ and ‘Lup’, as wolf in the Milanese dialect, reflects its international vision with Menegi roots. Sealup garments, inspired by historical archives, reinterpret the past according to today’s typical criteria of functionality and responsibility.

Rain & Sea, the SS 25 with tailored detail

The PE 25 collection celebrates the Sealup identity with the ‘Rain & Sea’ claim, combining tradition and modernity. The ‘Sea’ line offers elegant and versatile peacoats, in fabrics such as waterrepellent cloth, cashmere and waterproof cotton-nylon blend, declined in navy blue, military green, beige and black. Details such as buttons with logo and hand embroidery enhance the tailoring. The ‘Rain’ line reinvents trench and raincoats with certified antidrip fabrics and techniques such as heat-sealed. The main shades adapt with style to every need, combining performance and freshness. The ‘Rain & Sea’ world is completed by coats, blouson and parka, which embody 100% made in Italy design and values, confirming Sealup as a symbol of international excellence.

Some shots of the spring-summer 2025 collection by Sealup

The tailoring tradition is part of the DNA of the brand 100% made in Italy

MAN ON THE MOVE

The FW 25/26 collections focus on versatile elegance, designed for those who effortlessly transition from work to leisure without ever compromising on style. Between tailored jackets and casual pieces, the designs are enriched with functional details, reflecting a balance between professionalism and a free-spirited attitude by Maria

Pina Ciuffreda

CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE

Inspired by the tradition of Italian men’s tailoring, Corso Mille keeps redefining the boundaries of men’s elegance with a vision that responds to the needs of the modern, urban man. The FW 25 collection introduces a curated selection of versatile pieces: from wool blazers enhanced with technical details to waterproof bombers, all designed with attention to meet the demands of contemporary clientele.

BREAKING BARRIERS

TAILORING INNOVATION

TECHNOLOGICAL MINIMALISM

The Ukra coat by Unity is crafted from Pannotech fabric with a removable inner layer. The wool-blend fabric combined with a Membrane is breathable and waterproof, with a water resistance of 5,000 mm, and features a third layer of nylon jersey fabric to offer a soft touch throughout the entire garment.

The new men’s collection from Manzoni 24 celebrates the brand’s distinctive identity, a symbol of Italian excellence. The collection is aimed at a man who expresses his story and lifestyle through clothing, always on the move. At the heart of the collection, outerwear pieces stand out for their blend of sophisticated design and everyday practicality, crafted from cutting-edge fabrics and artisanal finishes.

Declaring one’s personality is the main focus of Suaji. Bold, avant-garde models that don’t compromise on comfort. A distinguishing feature is the sole: light, created with next-generation compounds, ensuring lightness while providing stability and flexibility with every step.

CUTTING-EDGE FUNCTIONALITY

Inspired by the timeless charm of Castel del Monte, a symbol of history and culture, Hevò’s autumn-winter collection stands as a statement of style, innovation, and sustainability, offering garments made from three different weights of wool and padding, ensuring versatility and comfort. This new line is designed to meet the needs of a constantly evolving world.

ALWAYS IS FOREVER

Manuel Ritz presents a collection inspired by the 1970s with the concept Groovy Winter. The line blends audacity and experimentation, recalling the aesthetics of Joe Colombo, Superstudio, and Verner Panton, merging traditional tailoring with innovation. The season’s colors are warm and enveloping, with vibrant accents, while the textures and prints experiment with velvet, denim, and technical scuba.

URBAN SOUL

Marc O’Polo offers an urban and versatile vision of the male wardrobe. Through innovative fabrics and refined cuts, the collection reflects the brand’s commitment to quality and sustainability, presenting a mix of casual elegance and everyday practicality.

IN EVERY MOMENT

The new winter collection from Duno blends the brand’s urban soul with high-performance functionality. In an increasingly dynamic city environment with unpredictable weather, outerwear and jackets made from 3Layer wool technical fabric meet the needs of a man on the move.

ESSENTIAL

The collection from TheVerticaLine explores varied textures and sustainable materials, reflecting different personalities with clean

BEYOND TIME

The new Montecore collection explores contemporary silhouettes and cutting-edge technical materials, combining functionality with refined design. Coats, down jackets, and blazers reinterpret the classics with innovative details, offering a timeless elegance that faces every season with style.

KEYWORD: DISTINCTION

C.P. Company reinterprets urban aesthetics with a cutting-edge approach. The new collection combines functionality with distinctive design, addressing the ever-evolving urban climate. Comfort, performance, and style merge in a line that reflects the brand’s futuristic vision, meeting the needs of the cosmopolitan man.

RETRO TENNIS

A model that blends history and modernity, elegantly reinterpreting an iconic design directly from Pantofola d’Oro ’s archive. Made from highquality leather, this sneaker is enriched with suede finishes that enhance its texture and refinement. The gold-embossed spoiler detail adds a distinctive luxury touch, making the model unique.

DISCREET LUXURY

Each Scaglione collection is characterized by constant research into materials, with a special focus on fine yarns, sophisticated finishes, and artisanal craftsmanship that ensure durability and comfort. The lines are refined but never excessive, conveying a sense of discreet elegance, highlighted by the use of sober colors and continuously evolving trends.

THE EVOLUTION OF A CLASSIC

The TRC trench is inspired by the historic 19thcentury British overcoat, combining tradition and innovation in the collection. Featuring a relaxed fit, button and zip closure, inner lining, and raw-edged fabric, it completes a unique and functional piece.

METROPOLITAN ATTITUDE

Bomboogie offers an urban and sustainable outfit: a Shetland wool jacket with a zippered hood, a padded vest made from recycled nylon, a high-neck merino wool sweater, and slimfit velvet 500R pants with tailored details. A mix of comfort, elegance, and functionality.

RUSTIC ELEGANCE

BETWEEN COUNTRYSIDE AND CITY

Eton combines elegance and versatility, with jackets, cardigans, and vests alongside iconic shirts. Made from premium materials like velvet, cashmere, and Merino wool, the pieces offer a perfect balance between urban style and rustic comfort.

UNEXPECTED ACCENTS

Paoloni weaves together traditional tailoring with technological innovation. Garments such as jackets and coats are padded and made from bi-stretch fabrics, ensuring a perfect balance between comfort and performance. The leisurewear offering takes center stage with lightweight flannel bombers and overshirts, garments that seem to float between functionality and refinement.

The Brouge derby by Green George, made from calf leather in tan, blends craftsmanship and functionality. The rubber tread sole guarantees durability and grip, making the model perfect for any occasion with both style and practicality.

A JOURNEY INTO THE LUXURY OF CASHMERE

Piacenza 1733 presents a sweater made from fine Alashan cashmere, inspired by the 19th-century travels of the Piacenza family and Indian Ikat dyeing techniques. Crafted using exclusive weaving techniques, the garment features horizontal stripes in delicate hues, with a color palette that includes saffron yellow, mélange gray, and tea leaf.

THE NEW ERA OF VERSATILITY

Markup introduces three lines–Core, Tech Hub, and Passione Sartoriale–characterized by a contemporary and versatile aesthetic. The color palette, including warm tones like black, anthracite, brown, bordeaux, and tidal green, defines a modern, refined, and timeless look, ideal for an evolved wardrobe.

TAILORED EVOLUTION

With the FW25 collection, Tombolini strengthens its role as a pioneer, combining sustainable innovation with traditional tailoring. The brand retains the classic structure of its suits while ensuring lightness and breathability, marking an evolution of elegance towards new dimensions.

HUMAN TOUCH

Brioni brings its sartorial art to the Circolo Filologico Milanese, where sketches, fabrics, and a tapestry from the Arazzeria Pennese tell the story of the brand’s tradition. The lightness and craftsmanship of its garments, which merge with the personality of those who wear them, are expressed in a cultural setting, blending modernity and tradition in a true creative experience.

CONTEMPORARY GENTLEMAN

The Doucal’s collection, inspired by the modern gentleman’s lifestyle, combines urban elegance with a bucolic atmosphere. The footwear and accessories line, designed for leisure, combines comfort and style through premium materials and tailored details, evoking the charm of the Scottish Highlands.

TIMELESS EMBRACE

Cruna is a journey between elegance and tradition, where each garment tells a story of refinement and sustainability. Fine fabrics intertwine with tailored details, creating shapes that embrace the body with lightness and comfort. A harmony of modernity and classic style, which becomes poetry in daily life for those seeking timeless style.

MR. BOX’S JOURNEY

The FW 2025 collection by In The Box, inspired by Mr. Box’s journey, combines sustainability and urban style. Embroidered t-shirts made from repurposed fabrics, Tartan, preppy stripes, teddy bear prints, and quilted nylon blend with regenerated wool and velvet, enriched with details in Japanese Hookoh prints. A journey of style that blends elegance and tradition.

A POEM IN CASHMERE

Eleventy reinvents the loden for Fall/ Winter 2025, creating a cashmere coat that combines timeless elegance and comfort. With sophisticated details such as leather buttons and an opening under the arm, along with impeccable doubleface craftsmanship, the garment offers a perfect balance between tradition and modernity.

Berwich offers a carrot-fit pant with double Italian pleats, cuffs, and suspender buttons at the waist. Made from combed Shetland wool with an exclusive design, it merges sartorial elegance and comfort in a refined and innovative piece.

INFINITE WARDROBE

Pal Zileri merges tradition and modernity, reinterpreting the male wardrobe through British influences and iconic outdoor fabrics. With a focus on lightweight constructions and reversible outerwear, the collection celebrates the brand’s know-how, offering elegance and innovation in every piece.

FORMS OF EXPRESSION

Rooted in the idea of laid-back luxury, Drumohr’s collection draws inspiration from workwear archetypes, elevated by garments made from pure cashmere dyed in the garment and precious blends of wool mixed with Mohair. A selection of essential pieces where attention to craftsmanship meets the search for refined materials.

NEW BALANCE

Diktat marks a new chapter in its journey through a contemporary redefinition of knitwear. With bold craftsmanship and a carefully curated color palette, each product is born from the combination of heritage and modern sensibility, offering a style that transcends the seasons.

MILITARY DESIGN

Gianni Lupo combines contemporary luxury with essential design, drawing inspiration from a reinterpreted military style. The pieces, characterized by clean lines and neutral tones, offer a modern vision of men’s fashion while maintaining a connection to the tradition of uniforms.

SKIN-FRIENDLY

A performance-driven and responsible sock. ANT45 excels with the use of exclusive materials, completely eliminating plastic components from its yarns. The FW 25/26 collection features Aztec prints, ribbed and twisted knit patterns, giving a timeless character, along with argyle and diamond patterns, perfect for a refined look.

LONGEVITY OF STYLE

With a unique ability to interpret the individual needs of his clients, Filippo De Laurentiis has established himself in the fashion world as a symbol

DISTINCTIVE CONTEMPORARY

Blauer USA blends urban aesthetics, functionality, and comfort, offering versatile pieces suitable for every setting, from the streets of the city to the open spaces outside. Each piece represents a fusion of tradition and avant-garde, designed to tackle the challenges of everyday life.

TIMELESS WALK

is a brand that embodies the perfect fusion of contemporary elegance and practicality. Its commitment to quality is reflected in the use of fine materials and the artisanal attention to detail, offering accessories that stand out for their versatility.

NOSTALGIC RETURNS

Karl Lagerfeld presents the entire men’s collection, with a particular focus on the iconic white shirt, a symbol of the brand. The minimalist black and white design reflects Karl’s distinctive codes, exploring the dichotomies that have defined his style.

CASUAL ROCK

Daniele Alessandrini’s collection is dedicated to a man with a dual personality, one casual and the other rock, fueled by pop culture. The latter emerges in the design of dynamic and somewhat eccentric pieces, giving life to the black label collection with more fluid, soft, and spacious volumes.

REVISITING THE ORIGINS

Avant Toi’s collection evokes memories and nostalgic feelings, rediscovering the brand’s DNA. Brushed surfaces, marbleized finishes, and soft jacquard offer a sense of protection and comfort with oversized, cocooning shapes that embody an essential and refined aesthetic.

CUTTING-EDGE OUTERWEAR

OOSY down jackets, filled with high-quality certified down, stand out for their bold colors, lightened volumes, and ultra-light hi-tech fabrics, combining elegance, innovation, and comfort.

NEW CONNECTIONS

LSR launches the LSR HI TOP, a new season innovation marking the evolution of the brand’s legendary model. With a bold, modern design, the new sneaker combines the brand’s classic sporty style with innovative details, offering a versatile and trendy footwear option.

THE SILENCE OF THE LANDSCAPE

Impulse intertwines with the essence of the sea. Sweaters crafted in woven patterns protect from the wind, ensuring both resistance and durability over time, both in form and appearance. Natural colors are interrupted by stripes in shades of sky, blue, Mediterranean sage, and burgundy. Each piece is designed for those who want to carry the elegance of the sea into their everyday life.

NO COMPROMISES

Samsonite introduces the Proxis expandable trolley line, ushering in a new era of travel defined by innovation and comfort. The Proxis’ robust structure is paired with a premium experience, featuring dual spinning wheels, a bi-tube trolley handle, and optimized interior compartments for maximum comfort and practicality.

BEGIN THE EXPLORATION

Keen’s new Hypowser Open-air sneaker makes the outdoors accessible to everyone. The Crushback heel allows the shoe to transform into a sandal or slide. Easily adjustable with elastic laces, the new injected foam midsole is extra thick yet incredibly lightweight.

DREAMING BIG

Tatras has made its mark in the fashion world as a brand with a strong creative personality.

INCLUSIVE VISION

Collective [of] Moving People stands out in the urban mobility landscape, offering innovative and sustainable solutions for a constantly moving world. With an approach combining functional design and advanced technologies, the brand is committed to meeting the needs of those who live dynamically in the city, without compromising the environment.

INTERPRETATIONS

Filson showcases its deep attention to consumer needs, drawing inspiration from materials, fits, and silhouettes from the brand’s extensive archives, perfectly blending unmatched protection and functionality with rich colors, design details, and tailoring.

CELEBRATING TRADITION

Della Ciana unveils a perfect balance between artisanal tradition and contemporary design. Revamped silhouettes, modern volumes, unique details, and a palette of vibrant colors breathe new life into the timeless elegance of made in Italy craftsmanship.

COLORFUL WAVE

Svevo breaks the mold with the crewneck sweater featuring hand-painted aerographed details on the collar, waist, and cuffs, using an innovative, washresistant pigmentation that is imperceptible to the touch. The colors evoke the vibrant 80s, from navy to raspberry, and optical white.

THE PASSION FOR THE MOUNTAIN

Superga finds new expression in the Alpina Duck Crazy Horse model, a modern reinterpretation of the iconic Alpina collection. The model evolves into a rugged boot made from premium Crazy Horse leather and enriched with a rubber bumper

A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME

Barbour unveils its boldest soul, reinterpreting classics with new visions and details that tell the story of a constantly evolving world, yet always rooted in the land that inspired it. A perfect balance between heritage and modernity, where each piece becomes a promise of quality, durability, and timeless style.

FUTURE VINTAGE

The blend of heritage and modernity is the hallmark of Cycle Jeans’ FW 25 collection. A used-look denim available in grey/black and brick, as well as traditional rigid blue twills, which maintain a small percentage of stretch thanks to the most innovative and sustainable technologies.

QUIET ELEGANCE

D.A.T.E. redefines the concept of elegance through a harmonious blend of refinement and modernity. Their sneakers, with minimalist design and sophisticated details, represent the perfect balance between comfort and style, fully reflecting the latest trends.

REFLECTIONS

The short trench from People of Shibuya represents the perfect intersection of technology and design. Made from technical fabric, it features a shirt collar

FOUR SEASONS

Tela Genova stands out for its timeless design. Each piece is a work of art that tells a story of authenticity and passion, crafted with care. The collection includes shirts, knitwear, and trousers, symbols of the brand’s rich heritage.

STYLE ORIENTATION

L’Impermeabile is a true style statement, ideal for those who want to face the elements with elegance. Each collection is characterized by attention to detail and a continuous search for innovative solutions, designed to meet the needs of a dynamic and discerning audience.

FOR DAILY LIFE

RefrigiWear’s tradition of quality, combined with continuous innovation, has made it a benchmark for those looking to face winter with elegance and comfort, without compromising performance. The brand’s commitment to finding innovative solutions is evident in its use of technical fabrics and the design of modern cuts.

SLY NOSTALGIA

Do rarity and collecting still matter in the sneakers world?

by Marco Rizzi

When it comes to sneakers, it has become increasingly difficult to identify and recognize trends that can define long periods. The fast announcements, the sheer volume of releases, and the now daily rhythm of news have greatly complicated this type of analysis. But looking ahead to 2024, one aspect that has certainly not gone unnoticed by many is nostalgia. In a time of crisis—due to a lack of creativity, the absence of suitable ambassadors, and public disinterest—many brands have turned to their archives, opting to bring back old models or rarities, often for the first time, that were once considered untouchable by many. Sometimes, there was a significant anniversary involved, such as with the New Balance 997 ‘Mismatch’ by Aimé Leon Dore, the Patta Air Max 1 ‘Chlorophyll’, or the four models chosen by Gary Aspden for the latest Spezial collection. In other cases, it seemed to many enthusiasts that the purpose was simply to capture attention quickly. The brand most analyzed and criticized in this regard is undoubtedly Nike, which over the past year has drawn heavily from its ‘vault’ bringing coveted models—sometimes featured in million-dollar auctions—back to the shelves. The most talked-about case was the re-release of the Dunk Hi ‘Wu-Tang’, a promotional model made in 1999 for members of the New York hip-hop

collective, which was surprisingly reissued last October with a wide distribution. But we could also talk about the retro versions of the extremely rare Air Force 1 Low ‘Linen’ from 2001 or the Air Max 1 x HUF from 2004, which were announced with great fanfare and sadly ended up on sale racks in many stores. The question many people asked was: ‘Is there still something sacred, untouchable?’. Probably not, but that doesn’t necessarily have to be seen as a bad thing. This new behavior from brands does make many models, once priced out of reach, more accessible to enthusiasts. Anyone who wants to delve deeper into the subject would quickly realize the great differences between original models and reissues, so from a ‘collecting’ perspective the issue is less urgent. The problem is different from a creative standpoint: reintroducing an old favorite generates a lot of attention in the moment and brings satisfaction to nostalgic fans, but it hides two much more important issues. First, the lack of creative stimulation that could lead to something new; and second, the inability to find new partners to collaborate with on projects and create the ‘classics of the future’. Already, some of these reissues are struggling to sell out because many of the new generation don’t know this or that model from 20 years ago. At this rate, what sneakers will we be nostalgic for in another 20 years?

Above: the new New Balance 997 by Aimé Leon Dore Above, from left to right: the Ardwick, made for the tenth anniversary of adidas Spezial, and the reissue of the Nike Dunk Hi ‘Wu-Tang’

BIG SOUP: HERE COMES

THE CORTINA POP-UP

Big Soup, a Roman resell store among the first to launch this type of business in Italy, has chosen the 2024 winter season to open its pop-up store in Cortina. The opening in the exclusive Dolomite ski resort comes after the great success of its seasonal pop-up in Porto Cervo, set among the boutiques of the Promenade du Port. With this temporary space, located at Via Battisti 14 and open for a few weeks, Big Soup once again proves to be one of the pioneers in Italy, experimenting with new retail solutions.

CNCPTS OPENS IN MIAMI

During the week when visitors from around the world flock to the city for the U.S. leg of Art Basel, one of the most important and renowned modern art fairs, CNCPTS opened its new store in Miami. The nearly 1,000-square-meter space is spread across two floors at 3800 Northeast 2nd Avenue, in the heart of the city’s Design District. The first event hosted in the new space was an exhibition celebrating the 20-year partnership between Nike and legendary New York graffiti artist Stash, which set the stage for the exclusive launch of the new ‘Blue Pack’ by the artist. Originally from Boston, CNCPTS now adds Miami to its roster of locations, alongside New York City and Dubai.

SAUCONY FLAGSHIP STORE COMING TO LONDON

During the call discussing the third-quarter results for 2024, Chris Hufnagel, president and ceo of Wolverine Sport, devoted much of the conversation to Saucony, positively commenting on the brand’s achievements in the previous year. In a statement reported by Footwear News, Hufnagel confirmed that the brand will open a flagship store in London, scheduled for the spring of 2025. The opening comes after a long period of activations and events organized by Saucony in the British capital, which led the American brand to become one of the main sponsors of the 10K race held in July. The store will open in Covent Garden, a central area already home to major brands like HOKA, Arc’teryx, and Dr. Martens.

A’JA WILSON RENEGOTIATES WITH NIKE

Basketball star A’Ja Wilson, a member of the Las Vegas Aces and the U.S. national team, announced before Christmas that she has renewed her sponsorship contract with Nike. The new agreement will last for six years and, according to ESPN, will be one of the most lucrative ever signed by a professional female basketball player. Wilson has been partnered with Nike since 2018, the year she debuted in the WNBA after her time at the University of South Carolina. This year, Wilson—who is a two-time Olympic, World, and WNBA champion, three-time MVP, two-time Defensive Player of the Year, and a former Rookie of the Year—will also be one of the few athletes to receive her own pro model: the Nike A’One.

A BOOK TELLS THE STORY OF BRITISH OUTDOOR CLOTHING

At a major event hosted by the London store Outsiders in early December, Mountain Style: British Outdoor Clothing 1953-2000, a book published by Isola Press, was unveiled. The book explores the history of British outdoor brands, from Berghaus to Ultimate Equipment, detailing the development and success of the most well-known English brands. During the presentation at Coal Drops Yard in London, the publisher also set up a small exhibition of archival pieces featured in the book, attracting the attention of many enthusiasts and collectors.

DIADORA REJOINS FORCES WITH HIKMET SUGOER

After a few months of hiatus, Diadora returns to the spotlight with a new collaborative release, featuring the return of German collector and designer Hikmet Sugoer to Caerano San Marco. The collaboration’s theme is speed, with German cars and futuristic painting inspiring Sugoer in the creation of the ‘Art of Speed’ pack, which includes the V7000 and Atomo V7000 made in Italy in a grey colorway with red details. For the release of this pack, the founder of Solebox and Sonra chose the Paris KITH store near the Champs Elysées for the only ‘physical’ release, accompanied by an online launch on Sonra and Diadora’s websites.

TIMBERLAND AND SNS: NEW RELEASES WITH A TOUCH OF TRADITION

Throughout 2024, Timberland has featured several highly appreciated releases, ending the year with the Euro Hiker, a collaboration with Swedish store Sneakersnstuff. The SNS team wanted to pay tribute to the brand’s history and its connection to hip-hop culture by reviving some ‘culinary combinations’ from the ‘90s. In New York, two colorways of the original Euro Hiker were affectionately nicknamed ‘Mac & Cheese’ and ‘Beef & Broccoli’, with beige and grey accents and brown and green details, respectively. SNS introduced their own version, the ‘Meatballs & Mashed Potatoes’, a Nordicinspired combination of colors for this release.

KIDS OF IMMIGRANTS

RELEASE TWO AIR MAX SNDRS

ADIDAS AND HARTCOPY’S OFFICIAL FIRST RELEASE

In just a few years, Hartcopy has become one of the go-to publications in the sneaker world, mainly thanks to the daily frequency of its posts packed with information and the yearbook that collects the best releases, now approaching its fourth edition. This popularity has allowed Hartcopy to work with several brands, including adidas, for which it created a special BW Army Trainer. The shoe was first presented during the January 2024 Paris Fashion Week and made available to the public in November through Hartcopy.store, via the Confirmed app, from KITH for the U.S. market, and Beams for Japan.

Kids of Immigrants, the lifestyle brand founded by Liberian-American Weleh Dennis and Honduran-American Daniel Buezo, has collaborated with Nike once again, releasing a collection that includes two colorways of the Air Max SNDR, a trail running model from the late ‘90s recently reissued by the Swoosh. The project, overseen by designer Drew Bar, was previewed at the latest ComplexCon and later released worldwide. This second collaboration between Nike and Kids of Immigrants has been widely recognized as one of the best releases of 2024, with talks already underway for another potential release later this year.

ASICS PAYS TRIBUTE TO SENNA LEGEND

One of the standout elements of ASICS in 2024 has been the high quality of the regional releases throughout the year. The brand’s Brazilian office created two special GEL-Kayano 14 models dedicated to Ayrton Senna, released in Brazil alongside the release of the Netflix mini-series Senna. The model was launched in two colorways reflecting two of the most iconic cars driven by the driver during his career: the black and gold Lotus 97T ‘John Player Special’ and the legendary white and red McLaren MP4/4, which he drove alongside Alain Prost during the 1988 Formula 1 season.

AN OLD SALOMON IS READY FOR A COMEBACK

After the success of the Speedcross 3, which Vandy the Pink recently worked on for a limited edition, Salomon has once again tapped into its archives for its next release. The French brand has decided to bring back the XT-Whisper, a trail running model that debuted in 2000 as an alternative to the XT-Hawk, one of the brand’s best-sellers at the time. Now presented as a unisex shoe, the new XT-Whisper is already available in many sneaker stores in its debut colorway, ‘Treetop/Wren/Sulphur Spring’.

ALTRA AND ROA HIKING MAKE THEIR DEBUT TOGETHER

For 15 years, Altra has been considered one of the leading trail running brands on the market, while ROA has gained recognition for blending fashion, streetwear, and outdoor elements in its collections and lookbooks. At first glance, this unusual partnership might not have seemed to promise much, but from shared design elements, functionality, and looks, they’ve created the limited edition Timp 5, finally available after being previewed last summer. Featuring Vibram soles, a waterproof Gore-Tex membrane, and a ‘90s-inspired colorway, this is a winning combination.

DR. MARTENS ENTRUSTS THE LOWELL TO AWAKE NY

Dr. Martens’ ongoing transformation under the leadership of Darren McCoy continues, with New York-based brand Awake NY being the first collaborator to design a special make-up of the Lowell model, which was introduced in the catalog this year. Angelo Baque and his team chose to cover the moc-toe of the Lowell entirely in pony hair with chrome eyelets and contrasting laces, offered in two different colorways: green and blue. Both the Dr. Martens Lowell x Awake NY are available at flagship stores, on the brand’s UK website, at major sneaker stores, and at the Awake flagship in Manhattan.

A NEW MODEL FOR OAKLEY FACTORY TEAM

Last December, Oakley unveiled the Ibex, the latest creation from the Factory Team Project in collaboration with Californiabased brand Brain Dead. Once again, the model draws clear inspiration from Oakley’s extensive experimentation portfolio, but instead of referencing the late ‘90s, it seems to take cues from the early 2000s high-tech designs. The Ibex is already available in two colorways in the current fall-winter collection in stores, along with the Edge Boot and Flesh Sandal.

AIMÉ LEON DORE CELEBRATES WITH NEW BALANCE

To mark the tenth anniversary of its brand, Aimé Leon Dore decided to rerelease its very first collaborative sneaker: the New Balance 997, originally presented in 2019 and now highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts. The difference from the original release is that this time, instead of two separate colorways, there is just one ‘mixed’ colorway. The surprise release was announced via a social media video and a brief message on the New Yorkbased brand’s website, catching many by surprise, but the few available pairs sold out quickly.

LONDON CALLING

How do you remain relevant for three decades? Offspring told us how to

by Marco Rizzi

The pandemic has certainly changed many aspects of the sneaker world and retail, but some stores like Offspring, on the scene for nearly 30 years, have faced these changes generation after generation. We spoke with Aman Tak, who shared the story of the London store and his work.

What is your role at Offspring and how long have you been working here? I manage buying, marketing, and product development for Offspring here in London. I’ve been working here for 20 years, right after university.

The store is approaching its 30th year of operation and is undoubtedly one of the most recognizable sneaker stores in London. How would you describe the relationship between Offspring, the city, and its sneaker scene?

G, the founder, opened the first store in 1996 in Covent Garden, London. By 2026, we’ll be celebrating our 30th anniversary, a huge milestone that says a lot about his and our team’s work. Over the years, we’ve built and served a global community, but London remains our starting point. We were born and raised here: this is our base. Our main focus is having UK sneaker enthusiasts wearing our shoes and making sure they end up with who can truly appreciate them, especially in London. With this in mind, we’ve built a personal and genuine relationship with our customers, laying the foundation for our community.

Over the years, you’ve paid particular attention to projects with communities, engaging people and making the most desired releases available to true collectors and enthusiasts. Your latest store in King’s Cross was even designed to have spaces dedicated to such activities. What makes the ability to connect with customers and sneakerheads so important for Offspring?

We realized that no one was communicating with customers the way they wanted to, so G and I used Instagram to do it. We noticed we were connecting with people in a natural way, going beyond the shoe. It was a personal connection, and the love for the scene brought together people from all walks of life who, in the end, just wanted to be recognized and heard. We understood that there was a need for a space where communities could come together and share what I’ve just mentioned, so we had the idea to create this ‘platform’ space in our new store. A community hub that people could use freely, a space for the people. It’s been a year since we opened, and we’ve organized some amazing activations, exhibitions, and workshops for and by our community.

Do you think collaborations and special make-ups still hold the same cultural value they did originally? What has changed the most: the audience or the retail system? It’s hard to say. I think there’s still room for these projects, but there was a point when there were simply too many, and they lost

a bit of their purpose. It’s always a great honor to collaborate with a brand, but I think consumers want something with a reason, a purpose, or to be part of the story. We’ve used this approach a few times now, involving consumers in the process, and we have something coming next year that’s made exactly like that: for the community, by the community.

Based on your experience, what should we expect from the future of sneakers, and what would you like to see changing?

I think the future is bright for the industry. There’s a lot of interesting products on the calendar from all the brands, and well-told stories we can connect with and share. Some focus on innovation, others on retro looks, and this gives companies the opportunity to attract a new type of audience. This is also reflected in today’s consumer’s ability to be more expressive and individual: they buy what they like instead of what the internet tells them is cool, and we now joke that general releases are the new limited editions for how fast they sell out. As for change, I think people need to rethink their expectations about what they consider ‘success’. We’ve now moved beyond the bubble where sneakers would sell out in a day. That’s not a failure; it’s leveling out. Things continue to sell well, but at a more normal pace, and from a business standpoint, it’s nice that someone can just walk into a store, find something, touch it, try it on, and buy it. I also think people have started prioritizing what really matters after Covid, so parties and family now take precedence over buying every release, and that’s not a bad thing at all. In fact, we hope it keeps going on like this.

Above: Aman Tak, marketing manager at Offspring

Below: two images of the King’s Cross store in London

The full interview can be found on hubstyle.it

THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE JOURNEY IS THE JOURNEY HOME. KITON

YOU’LL KNOW IT WHEN YOU SEE IT.