THE CITY MAGAZINE OF
July-August 2010 Year 8. Issue 86 €4.50
insider ISSN 1790-3114
ATHENS
Summer pleasures Art in the city / Summer reads / Sandy escapades / City pools / Frappe, Greece’s national obsession / Cocktail Hour / Greek summer in a bottle / Dance your nights away / Triathlon at Schinias PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE
2 insider athens | July - August 2010
Sudha Nair-Iliades
As every year, the run-up to the holiday season is always a mad scramble.Trying to get two magazines out while already doing the groundwork for the ones in September can be daunting at the best of times but throw in a VAT hike, kid’s summer camp schedules to juggle with, house guests who expect you to show the sights and you have an intense last few days before you hope to lie back and read a book on the beach. For my friends and family back home, the idea of Greeks shutting shop (and business life coming to a standstill) for a whole month is something so outrageously preposterous, that they have a tough time getting their heads around it. And yet, what I find so refreshing about the Greeks is that they know not to fight nature beyond a point - to squeeze in enough time to enjoy the little pleasures of life that render our existence a bit more humane. Where else, in the midst of a crisis, would you see cafés brimming with young and old alike, in noisy pareas, animatedly discussing Greece’s euro future, football, fashion and politics over a long chilled glass of frappé - almost drawing on it for sustenance to keep going until the wee hours.
publisher’s note If it were to go through a recession, I’d rather do it here, under the Greek sun, surrounded by people who do not need much to enjoy life. This issue is dedicated to the Greek spirit – to the coffee marathoners, to the irresistible tempo of the bouzouki, to Greece’s inviting natural landscape and its man-made temples of cool. And at the risk of re-iterating a Zorbaesque image of Greece, it is all about celebrating life, especially when the going gets tough. So this summer, turn on the kefi, hone your backgammon skills, dive into one of the city pools at a special Insider discount and concoct your own ouzotini. Kala na perasete!
Sudha Nair-Iliades
Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades
Web Coordinator Celine Rivault
Delivery Hellenic Foreign Press Distribution Agency
Art Director Michel Devanakis
Art Editor Stephanie Bailey
Subscriptions
Advertising & Business Development Toula Victor
Contributors in this Issue Stephanie Bailey, Marie Fiorin, Angelos Giotopoulos,Venetia Karapanou, Eleni Kefalopoulou, Steve Olson, George Schira, Mike Sweet, Graham Wood, Toula Victor
Sales Elodie Dufour Marketing Katerina Linou
Founder Steve Pantazopoulos
Client Relations Mathilde Giraudo
Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos
Photographer Angelos Giotopoulos
Prepress, Montage and Printing Dias
* Athens Insider - 10 issues a year in Greece € 40, Abroad € 80 * Bonjour Athènes - 5 issues a year in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 * Both magazines in Greece € 60, Abroad € 120 Prices include VAT and postage. info@insider-magazine.gr www.insider-magazine.gr www.bonjour-athenes.com Athens Insider is published monthly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by:
Insider Publications Ltd. located at Rizari 17, 116 34 Athens, Greece. Telephone 210.729.8634. Fax 210.729.8635. Tax No. 099747145. Email: info@insider-magazine.gr Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.
Athens Insider: Monthly Publication ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 6548
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contributors With a varied career in journalism, documentary filmmaking, fund raising and political consulting, George is presently Communications Consultant to Leadership 100, the pre-eminent Greek American charitable organization comprising prominent figures in business. An avid New Yorker, he has travelled the world and lived in Athens. He frequently visits Greece and makes his Insider debut with ‘A Day in Athens’. He will write a regular column - New York Inside and Out - beginning September.
Venetia Karapanou
Venetia was born in Athens, studied economics and finance in Thessaloniki and France and is currently working for an international financial institution in Athens. Her intense professional life is balanced by a strong involvement in the Athens cultural and social scene. She has occasionally contributed to financial newspapers and also enjoys writing about subjects of personal interest.
After a Masters in Economics and a Masters in Fashion Management from SDA Bocconi in Milan, Marie gained significant experience in the fashion industry working for leading brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Emanuel Ungaro, Ermenegildo Zegna and GianFranco Ferré. She also worked for Fashion TV as a presenter as well as for Yoox Group as a shoe buyer. Marie then started a career as a freelance fashion stylist and launched MARILICIOUS.COM in 2009, a website dedicated to fashion, style & beauty. Follow her tips in the Agora pages!
Marie Fiorin
A documentary producer for the BBC Television in the 1990s, Michael worked in broadcasting in South Asia before relocating to Australia in 2002, where he established his TV production business. He has lived in Athens since 2007 and is correspondent for the English language edition of Australia’s largest circulation Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos. Michael combines his writing with producing independent documentary films.
Mike Sweet
Graham lived and worked in the UK and Japan before moving to Athens in 2004. Currently he writes about the Greek sports scene for Reuters, UEFA and the Athens News. A self-confessed extreme sports-lover, he also contributes features on travel, the environment and leisure to various publications
Stephanie Bailey
Reader’s Corner
George Schira
Stephanie is a freelance writer, artist and teacher. Born in Hong Kong, she studied Classical Civilization and English Literature before completing a foundation diploma in Art & Design in London. She has contributed to Adbusters, ArtPapers, Athens News and Odyssey, and is a music correspondent for Spinearth.tv
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4 insider athens | July - August 2010
Graham Wood
I love reading your magazine ... for almost three years now. It’s the only magazine in Greece that I truly appreciate because I can read it! I’m a huge fan of the My Athens page. More power to Insider.
I’ve been reading your listings section at the end of the magazine. While very useful, I can’t help but notice that the southern suburbs aren’t given as much attention. Could you remedy that ? Jenny Wilcox, Vari
Yoko Ramos-Vingno, Filothei Congratulations on a beautifully laid-out magazine.The whole magazine was very wellrounded with extremely interesting articles on the World Cup, the island tips as well as the fabulous write-up on Louise Bourgeois. Keep up the good work. Holly Diamantakis. Maroussi
Send us your feedback to info@insider-magazine.gr
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contents Features
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Redefining Athens 12 Designer George C Carabellas gives us an insight into why he finds Athens irresistible Reconstructing dreams 16 Kostis Velonis’ politically charged visual symphony at the EMST reflects on events in Greece and on the reconstruction of our collective dreams Bucharest’s tryst with history 18 Stephanie Bailey stumbles on Bucharest’s fascinating history while interviewing the youngest biennale curator in history, 23year old Felix Vogel Keeping it real 20 Insider covers the Whitechapel’s upcoming exhibition featuring seminal pieces from Dimitris Daskalopoulos’private collection Creating a musical legacy 22 Conductor Peter Tiboris on the 6th Festival of the Aegean in Syros Hitting the high notes 23 Upcoming soprano Sofia Antonakos on her passion for opera A day in Athens 26 George Schira reminisces of an odyssey he undertook to Athens 25 years ago with then US President Jimmy Carter
Departments Greek summer special: Anatomy of a frappe 28 Greece’s unique coffee culture
Arts & events
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Galleries
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Yia mas! 30 Sundowners based on ouzo and mavrodaphne
Books
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My Athens
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Society
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Art
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Music
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A place in the sun 34 Insider tips of the best beaches in Attica
Fast Lane
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Cool clubs for hot summer nights 36 Venetia’s top ten temples of dance and cool in Athens
Time Lapse
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Agora
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Sport
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Triple action 44 Graham Wood gets ready for the gruelling triathlon in Schinias in September
Fashion
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Wellness
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Grape Ideas
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Gastronomy
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Giving
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Dive right in 32 Earn a swim and an Insider discount on the city’s pools
Sunlit serenity 50 It is a tough job. Toula Victor subjects herself to intense pampering at the Arion Resort and Spa
Summer in Greece 30
Insider News
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Summer in a bottle 52 Raise a glass to Greece’s summer wines
Restaurant index
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Area-wise listings
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Omikron 54 Chef Dina Nikolaou’s new restaurant venture in Kifissia
Kaleidoscope
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Arts & events
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Festival of the Aegean July 14 - 25 Hermoupolis, Syros 1 Music and theatre share the stage in Hermoupolis this summer as the 6th annual Festival of the Aegean kicks off at the historic Apollo Municipal Theatre, a landmark venue in itself. Performances including Bizet’s Carmen will take place each evening, and visiting choirs are set to perform at sunset at St. Nicholas Church for passers-by. www.festivaloftheaegean.com
At the Hermes boutique Until August 25 Living Tales by Deyan The works of Deyan Semkov will be on display for passers-by to admire throughout the summer. His creations are of bronze, stone, wood and marble and are inspired by Greece’s natural beauty in its simple form. The exhibit emphasizes the traditional stories and folk tales of Greece, and how
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to incorporate them in Modern Greek culture.
At The Museum of Cycladic Art Until September 12 Sarah Lucas / Nuds Cycladic A significant development in Sarah Lucas’ work, the Nuds series is a self-reflecting collection that moves away from the genderbased critique of her creations in the ‘90s and takes the earlier figurative ‘bunny’ sculpture series to a more abstract form and demonstrates interesting links to British sculpture in the twentieth century, such as Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore, as well as an influence from Louise Bourgeois, Bellmer and others.
Until September 12 Louise Bourgeois Emphasizing the so-called Personages, sculptures which have Surrealist origins and are totem-like in appearance, is the
aim of the exhibition of works by internationally acclaimed artist, Louise Bourgeois. Created between 1947-1953, they were originally carved in wood and intended to be produced in bronze. www.cycladic.gr
At Contemporary Space Athens’ Good Design Café Until August 1
Delicious Architecture The Fine Art of Food and Design This exhibition explores the historic relationship between food and design and ultimately its final presentation. Proposed creations range from extraordinary and futuristic towers, pyramids, spires, temples, obelisks, sculptures, even skyscrapers that celebrate the fun in today’s contemporary architecture using food and cooking as the source of their inspiration.
Until August 10 Panagiotis Beltzinitis and the Design of Food
In a series of upcoming exhibitions on the subject of «New Greek Photography,» The European Centre for Architecture Art Design and Urban Studies presents the works of Greek photographer, Panagiotis Beltzinitis, who began photographing food in 1996. Beltzinitis has cooperated with every food publication and magazine in Greece and has worked on 44 cook books. www.europeanarch.eu
At the Benaki Museum Until August 29 Zizi Makri, China 1956: Prints and Drawings 2 Inspired by her travels throughout China in 1956, Zizi Makri’s series of woodcuts and pastels were created using on-site sketches as a starting point and draw on the visual experiences of the country and the wealth of inspiration it offers. Works on display narrate the history, culture, myth, people and society of a country that is changing. www.benaki.gr
On the town For location details see listings p76
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Athens & Epidaurus Festival Until August 31 3 The 2010 Athens & Epidaurus Festival offers a spectacular programme of music, theatre, dance and performing arts from every corner of the world. With several performances to choose from and spectacular venues including the Herodes Atticus Theatre in Athens and the ancient theatres of Epidaurus, this annual event has become a staple of Greek culture. www.greekfestival.gr
At B & M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Until September 10 Lazaros Lameras – Apostolos Fanakidis 4 Protagonists in the world of contemporary sculpture, Lazaros Lameras and Apostolos Fanakidis are known for their impressionistic and symbolic tendencies. A series of works by both artists will
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be on display, demonstrating the development of their respective styles throughout the course of their artistic careers.www.thf.gr
PhotoBiennale 2010 Until September 58 exhibitions at 35 venues by 188 artists from 25 countries have been organized by the Thessaloniki Museum of Photography, and will travel to Alexandroupoli, Kastoria, Volos, Heraklion, Nasoussa and Xanthi. Exhibitions refer to four different approaches to the notion of place and include works by Tarek Al-Ghoussein, Isabelle Pateer, Alexandros Vrettakos, Christoforos Doulgeris, and Vassilis Vrettos.
At the National Museum of Contemporary Art Until September 5 Yang Fudong, Seven Intellectuals in a Bamboo Forest and Other Stories 5
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Yang Fudong creates films, videos and photographs full of psychological tension and melancholy that touch upon subjects related to the rapid transformation of Chinese society in recent years through stories of love and individual struggle. Among his featured works are the complete five-part epic cinematic cycle Seven Intellectuals in a Bamboo Forest, the recent 6 channel video installation East of Que Village, the monumental tenchannel video installation Close to the Sea and the earlier film Liu Lan.
Until September 5 Kostis Velonis, Loneliness on Common Ground: How Can Society Do What Each Person Dreams In his first solo museum exhibition, renowned young Greek artist Kostis Velonis presents a number of large-scale sculptural
works as well as some smaller sculptures, which take Russian avant-garde, ancient Greek democracy and the working class consciousness as their subject matter, examining how these concepts and visions can be seen today. www.emst.gr
Museum of Islamic Art Until September 19 A Journey to Cavafy’s Alexandria: Anna Boghiguian’s Watercolours Painter Anna Boghiguian’s watercolours act as guides, leading us to re-read Cavafy’s poems and travel to the magical landscape of Alexandria. A voyage that appears lyrical, but also explosive and dark; a voyage that transports the past into the present, bathes Alexander in the waters of the Ganges and hides the Laestrygones and the Cyclopes within an urban landscape. www.benaki.gr
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Galleries with Stephanie Bailey
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At Bernier - Eliades Until July 10 Phillip Allen …the urgent hang around 1 After Justin Lieberman’s conceptual cracks and Keith Sonnier’s light sculptures, Phillip Allen is a welcome exhibition in the Bernier/Eliades exhibition program. As much as one might say about the structural undertones, composition, colour or texture of Allen’s paintings, this is one show where one doesn’t really have to think too hard. Rich in tone, Allen’s varied use of oil paint on board is aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and even more pleasing to the
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mind, considering the concepts behind the work appear to be purely visual, and entirely personal. www.bernier-eliades.gr
At Potnia Thiron Until July 15 Antonio Riello, Ordinary Things 2 Curated byAlessandroVincentelli, curator of the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art, Gateshead, Riello investigates the human need to destroy. “Shells and artillery, squadrons of fighter planes, hand grenades and gas masks, helmets, clubs and shields come together into
installations and motifs which speak of the rationalization of repression through legally violent and terror-striking means.” Once again, ideas of freedom, justice and dignity are held up for collective contemplation. www.potniathiron.eu
At Gagosian Gallery Until July 16 Philip Taaffe, Ekstasis 3 Phillip Taaffe assimilates life’s experiences into a visual language that conveys everything and nothing. In his own words, his work “is about a process of description. My attitude towards repetition has to do
with the cumulative effect of continuous applications of line and color. If we focus on that, and see them as crystallized into patterns or marks…they become some kind of actively structured geographical field.” Having travelled widely in the Middle East, India, South America, and Morocco, Taaffe lived and worked in Naples from 198891. He presently works and lives in New York City, and West Cornwall, Connecticut. www.gagosian.com
At Elika Gallery Until July 24 Summer 10 * 10 artists 4
On the town For location details see listings p76
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A group exhibition featuring 10 young artists, Athena Agorgianiti, Dimitris Ameladiotis, Leonidas Giannakopoulos, Gregory Grosjean, Theodore Zafiropoulos, Michael Zacharias, Thanos, Nikos Papadimitriou, John Sinioroglou and Helen Froudaraki. Works of various media create an eclectic and interesting mix. www.elikagallery.com
At AMP Works Until July 31 Ashes to Ashes 5 Curated by young artist Christopher Garrett, Ashes to Ashes unites contemporary artists Johanna Billing, Jennifer Cohen, Anne Collier,
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Anne Eastman, Matthew Higgs, Jo Jackson, Andrea Longacre-White, Ara Peterson, Hayley Tompkins and Francis Upritchard with antiques taken from the Martinos Gallery - one of Athens’s more established antiques dealers. Sensitively arranged, Garrett manages to create a vortex by which objects of the past add a new dimension to works of the present, within the context of Athens today. www.a-m-p.gr
At the New Benaki Museum Until July 25 greek green greet by droog In collaboration with the Dionisis Sotovikis Workshop
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and Mariolopoulos Kanaginis’ Foundation for the Environmental Sciences, the Benaki Museum presents the largest Droog retrospective staged since 2007. One of the world’s premier conceptual design companies, the exhibition presents the company’s design ethos by exploring, investigating and discussing the concepts of recycle, re-use, recreate, reinvent, clarity of concept, memory and nostalgia. The purpose is to draw the attention to contemporary design with environmental concerns in Greece and beyond. www.benaki.gr
At Rebecca Camhi Until September DeAnna Maganias Working across a number of disciplines, Athens/New Yorkbased artist Maganias enjoys contemplating the world around her, using sculpture, video, painting and photography to revisit perspectives and in doing so, re-approach one might perceive structure and space. Strongly influenced by the minimalist form, Maganias makes works that are about objects and spaces that are taken for granted, forcing the viewer to re-examine what they are, and what they might mean. www.rebeccacamhi.com
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Books TZ
Revisiting
Ionian history
Hot off the press, a new book by Corfu resident Jim Potts, The Ionian Islands and Epirus - A Cultural History, reveals and celebrates the cultural legacy of the Ionian Islands region and its people, but also asks deeper questions about the nature of Hellenic identity, and the Greek experience itself. Mike Sweet reviews the book
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ff the west coast of mainland Greece lie the seven Ionian Islands, celebrated for their spectacular landscapes and classical associations. Together with the mountainous mainland region of Epirus, the combined populations of Corfu, Paxos, Lefkas, Ithaca, Kefalonia, Zakynthos and Kythira (formerly considered one the Heptanesian islands), constitute less than a twentieth of the population of Greece, yet they have made a huge contribution to the culture of the central Mediterranean region, before and after becoming part of the Greek state. It is this region, and that contribution, that inspired former British Council Director, Jim Potts, to write what is the latest title in the ground-breaking Landscapes of the Imagination Series, produced by UK publisher Signal Books. The series, which has created something of a new genre, sets out to explore through their history, literature and art, the world’s great landscapes – real, mythic and imagined. Jim Potts first visited Corfu in 1967, and as he writes in the introduction, he has been trying
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to develop a deeper understanding of Greek culture ever since; no doubt a quest partly motivated by being married to Corfiot writer Maria Strani. In his new book, Potts reveals the landscapes, legends, ancient and living culture of this unique part of Greece - from the mythical leap of Sappho and the mystery of Calypso’s Island, to the impact of mass tourism on modern-day Corfu. The author takes the reader on a remarkable journey, ‘accompanied’ by a host of artists and writers, inspired through the ages, by the islands and the nearby Pindus Mountains - from Homer to Byron, Edward Lear to the Durrells, Louis de Bernieres to Nicholas Gage. The perceptions of these fellow travellers through time, is at the heart of Potts’ writing, and his story interweaves their portrayals of the region through the centuries, with the author’s own sensitive and revealing reflections. As Potts himself suggests, the book, researched and written over three years “does not pretend to reveal the ‘hidden history’ of the two regions, but rather…throw the spotlight on aspects
of history that have been whitewashed or re-imagined, and on overly-nationalistic or revisionist accounts.” Fastidiously researched, the book reveals Potts’ immense knowledge and love of the subject. This kaleidoscope of ideas and imagery, of real and imagined stories, conceived over centuries, gives a profound insight into the history the islands and Epirot mainland, and the cultural legacy that remains. It is a work which goes far beyond the fare of any conventional tourist guide. This important book is a ‘must read’ for any discerning explorer of this beautiful, distinctive part of Greece. Jim Potts is the author of Corfu Blues, and coeditor of Swedish Reflections - from Beowulf to Bergman, and worked for The British Council for thirty-five years.The author divides his time between Corfu, Epirus and the UK. i The Ionian Islands and Epirus - A Cultural History by Jim Potts (Signal Books, Oxford) is available in Athens from the Eleftheroudakis bookshop, 17 Panepistimiou, and Plous Bookshop, Nik.Theotoki Street 91, Corfu
Divine intrigue Insider contributor Gary van Haas’ gripping thriller of religion, murder, blackmail and intrigue, The Ikon, written before The DaVinci Code makes for a perfect summer read books to be published soon called Malabar Run, a sequel to The Ikon that takes detective-artist character Garth down on a wiley, wild adventure to exotic Goa and another called Devil’s Banker, a tense political thriller about a British Inspector who is sent to Rome to investigate the murder of Roberto Calvi, involved in the Banco Ambrosiano bank scandal with The Vatican and the Mafia. Gary van Haas‘ inspiration for The Ikon came from the characters he met and socialised with while living on Mykonos in the eighties. “An artist friend, John Rossman, who lived a good life, went inexplicably crazy overnight. Too much partying, too many drugs was the general verdict but something about the story bothered me and that was what initiated the book. A lot of furious typing followed and The Ikon was born.” The central character in van Haas’ Greek island thriller is Garth Hanson, an artist commissioned by an unscrupulous art dealer to produce a replica of a world-famous icon on the Greek island of Tinos. But while on nearby Mykonos, he learns some disturbing news regarding his close friend John Ralston, who was also commissioned to forge another masterpiece, and has suffered a mysterious breakdown as a result. Sceptical by what has happened, Garth decides to investigate and suddenly finds himself enveloped in a bloody scenario of murder, betrayal and deception, a treacherous world of deceit and fear, where fact and fallacy are confusing and surreal. With no one left to trust, Garth finds himself obsessed in discovering the real truth behind The Ikon - a terrible, ancient secret that if revealed, could change the world as we know it! There is also a movie in the works for The Ikon in Los Angeles (scheduled for production in early 2011) and the book has been translated in 31 countries. Gary van Haas has written two more
Excerpt from The Ikon, Chapter 2 In the early light of morning, as the plane sailed smoothly over Mykonos, the village below looked as pure and quiet as a cloister. Sparkling white cube-houses and little redand-blue church domes were lapping against the rocks, a picture-perfect, idyllic setting that brought hordes of tourists every summer. Some came for the sandy beaches and the clear blue sea, hoping to find peace in days of lethargy in the sun. Others, perhaps the majority, had read or heard about the wanton pleasures of the island. Hidden among the twisted maze of streets and alleys were the bars, noisy discos and cabarets that make Mykonos one of the wildest hedonistic party scenes in the Aegean. They call Mykonos Aspero Tinesia – the island of white – not only because of its white houses and architecture, but because of the mountains of cocaine, heroin, Ecstasy, LSD and other drugs that are sold and consumed daily. Back in the 1960s it was an unobtrusive, sleepy little sea village, that is, until Jackie and Aristotle Onassis arrived on their fancy yacht the Christina. Then, after visits from a few more Hollywood stars like Sophia Loren, Laurence Harvey and others, this quaint little island in the middle of the Aegean Sea became famous, or perhaps infamous, as a “happening” place for the jet-set and the flamboyant gay crowd. Mykonos suddenly became a red-hot holiday playground known to straights and jaded party-goers alike from every corner of the globe.
The early morning sun was already burning hot on the black tarmac runway as Garth disembarked from the small, crowded twelve-seat prop. The terminal was small, but even at this hour the crowds of travellers demonstrated the busy island scene. An aloof young customs officer, who seemed disinterested in his job, went briefly through his luggage and waved him through. Garth was behind a young American couple, whose accent betrayed their southern origins. The young woman chatted continuously, her words coming out in a honeyed drawl. He listened in quiet amusement as she asked a nearby Greek if he knew a certain hotel, peppering her inquiry with a clear “y’all”. Outside, the light was pure bright as Garth remembered it, for this was the famous Greek light, written and talked about for centuries. Referred to as “humanizing”, many artists had tried to capture its peculiar transparent quality. It was said that if you lived long enough in the light of Greece, it made you a better human being, more focused on balancing the tensions of human relationships than giving in to neurotic impulses. Garth certainly liked the Greeks’ approach to life: wine, music and dancing, with everyone playing out the Dionysian side of their personalities. i About the Author: Gary Van Haas is a graduate of the UCLA School of Journalism, who has spent the last twenty years living in Greece, touring the world’s most intriguing travel destinations, researching their indigenous cultures, customs, mythology and archaeological sites. He currently works as a novelist and has been both a feature and travel writer for the International Herald Tribune, Athens News, Odyssey, Athens Insider, Conde Nast and Travel Magazine. The Ikon is published by Empiricus Books www. januspublishing.co.uk and is available at Eleftheroudakis and Compendium bookstores. ISBN 978-1902835-21-1
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Culture
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he newly renovated Nikos Kazantzakis Museum opens its doors on July 3, in the historical village of Varvari, (now known as Myrtia) just 15 km south of Heraklion. The Museum pays tribute to the renowned intellectual, author, philosopher, politician and traveller Nikos Kazantzakis whose characters and books immortalized the Greek spirit. Built on a site formerly occupied by the home of the Anemoyiannis family, the museum is housed in a newly renovated building. With the goal of preserving the memory and works of Kazantzakis and inspiring new generations to study his works in mind, founder Giorgios Anemoyiannis has created a space which holds a comprehensive collection of manuscripts, notes, samples of correspondence with major politicians and authors, rare photographic material, personal effects, material from theatre productions, and dozens of foreign-language editions.The modern setting, characteristic of Kazantzakis’ timeless works, allows admirers from around the world to take a glimpse into the life of the man who once described himself not as “a scholar, intellectual or pen-pusher”, but instead, “an undaunted soul.” Nikos Kazantzakis Museum, Myrtia, Crete www.kazantzakis-museum.gr Hours: Open daily from 9 am – 5 pm Ticket prices: individuals 3€, groups 2€, and schoolchildren 1€
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Photo (c) Ioanna Roufopoulou
Redefining Athens’ je ne sais quoi
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As designer, founder, and creative director of AJENESAISQUOI/BESPOKE Georgios C. Carabellas lets us into his redefined view of the city
My Athens
Our very own Marrakesh vibe! Stimulating and inspiring.
Athinas Street
Which area of Athens do you live in? Just moved downtown from the boring suburbs. And I love it! The neighbourhood of Thission next to the Acropolis and Plaka is full of energy and life. Its aura embraces you, sweeps you off your feet and you are magically transcended to another era. Another place and time. To me, it is Athens redefined. What do you see from your balcony? My personal favourite building in the city, the Asteroskopion (Observatory), the hill, the pine trees, the sky, the sunsets. It almost feels like living in Rome. Our big terrace has seen many gatherings boasting this world view. Your all-time favourite restaurant? I’m a sucker for all the little old fashioned tavernas like To Steki Tou Ilia on Thessalonikis Street. Back to basics. Where do you unwind after work? I like my home. In fact, I love my home. I see it as a shelter. I designed it to match my personality, needs and life style. But I find that a pint of Fosters at the James Joyce Irish Pub always helps, too! Describe your perfect Sunday in Athens. Coffee and croissants from Dimos Bakery, the best in town, just around the corner on Poulopoulou Street, chit-chatting with my wife, a pile of magazines that I never come around to reading (once a designer always a designer) and a walk around the area where I grab a coffee and visit the Ancient Agora, free of charge on Sundays. Amazing! It will make you stop whining about our city, even if it’s only for a moment! Secret parking space in central Athens? You must be kidding! Either buy a Smart, or walk. I’ve done both since I moved downtown and it works.
What is the ideal souvenir from Greece? To a foreigner, I would say our mentality, the way we see things and our approach to life. If this frivolity is combined with a well structured mind, well, it’s a killer combination that can rule the world! Any favourite shops or boutiques? There is this charming place on Fokilidou Street in Kolonaki called Euxaris. Aah! It’s like you’re in Provence or something. I always go to Free Shop, because they know their stuff. Interni now houses my new collection of art de la table. Box Architects has an eclectic mix of design items (check out my collection of bespoke wallpapers also at www. ajenesaisquoi.gr). I’m also very fond of my new, recently opened concept store, Thission Revisited II. And I love, love, love all the little shops in the centre where you can pick up great finds, from ropes to funny pegs and from one of a kind antiques to you-name-it! Any funny cab stories? I never, ever use a taxi in Athens. Best place to get away from it all? A lot of people like the sea. I like it where I can get lost in it, like on an island. So, in a big city like Athens getting away from it all has to be a mind game. The city per se is unfriendly, so are the people. The only way out lies within us. We make it happen, we make it real. It may involve a person, a place or simply a nice thought. A visit to the airport with a ticket in hand can also be a step in the right direction! Most positive change in Athens over the last ten years? I would have to say the perception of the people that it’s worth fighting for this tormented place. Especially after last December’s riots, I feel a new turn towards loving the centre, even living in it. Downtown revisited is the new motto. If you were mayor for a day, what would you change? I would bring back the neratzies (bitter orange trees) on Kanari Street. Please! i
Can you describe a quintessentially Athenian sound, smell, taste and sight? The neratzies (bitter orange trees) around my home, but also everywhere in the city, in full blossom in spring. So unexpected! So divine! So Greek! What’s your favourite city stroll? I just love to walk from home to my office in Kolonaki passing through the central market, Athinas Street, the whole Psyrri area, completely different in daylight, full of little shops and commotion.
Neratzies
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Insider photographer Raschid Bellak was on assignment to get us the hottest red carpet moments from the 63rd Cannes Film Festival 2010. 1. Woody Allen, perhaps the most prolific director of our times, was in Cannes with the ravishing Naomi Watts in tow to present his film, You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger 2. Making the transition to the big screen, Evangeline Lilly of Lost 3. Supermodel Naomi Campbell and 4. the bewitching Glenn Close 5. Vanessa Paradis and husband Johnny
16 insider athens | July - August 2010
Depp at the Chanel gala at the VIP Room 6. Making an entrance was the iconoclastic Karl Lagerfield 7. with Lionel Richie following 8. And Paris Hilton breezes in to interestingly enough, present Fuck Me I’m Famous 9. At the closing ceremony, the L’Oréal girls, Eva Longoria and Aishwarya Rai and 10. another exotic beauty, Salma Hayek 11. Two heart-stoppers and extremely talented actors, Javier Bardem, nominated for his role in Biutiful and 12. Benicio Del Toro, member of the jury this year.
Photos (c) Raschid Bellack
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Greece had pinned its hopes on the Greek national team to bring some much-needed cheer at the FIFA World Cup in South Africa. Despite a brave fight, the Greek team did not make it past the first round. Here are a few snapshots of the team as they headed out to Johannesburg on board Hellenic Imperial Airways on June 5. In picture, 13. Talal Abureyal, Chairman and CEO of the airline with Otto Rehhagel, the team coach 14. The team grinning to the cameras 15. and signing t-shirts for eager fans 16. before boarding the Boeing 747 17. Leo Abudahab and Bee Antonia Zinkhaan of Hellenic Imperial Airways wishing Otto Rehhagel before 18. the plane finally takes off.
19 20 19. Andreas Stylianopoulos, CEO of Navigator Travel and Tourist
20. On the occasion of World Wind Day on June 15,Vestas Hellas, the
Services and representative of Celebrity Cruises was presented with an award on June 28 for promoting and developing cruises in Greece. Seen here with Regional Vice-President for Celebrity Cruises Rama Rebapragada and Helen Beck, Director of Sales for Europe, Middle East &Africa for Royal Carribean International.
world leaders in wind energy, organised a conference on funding for wind energy projects in Greece. Participants at the conference included Alexandros Tourkolias of the National Bank of Greece, Harry BoydCarpenter of EBRD, Fotini Koutzoukou of the European Investment Bank and Anna Marie Owie of Eksport Kredit Fonden with Vestas Hellas CEO Yanos Michopoulos.
insider athens | July - August
2010
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Art
This page: Gaining Socialism While Losing your Wife (After Popova’s Set Construction for “Le Cocu magnifique”, 1922), 2009 4.50 m x 17 m x 92 cm Wood, acrylic, iron, hardboard, spray, cloth Right page: Endless Construction (Victory over the Sun), 2009 4 m x 10 m x 90 cm Wood, acrylic, hardboard
Kostis Velonis talks to Stephanie Bailey about his current exhibition, Loneliness on Common Ground: How Society Can Do What Each Person Dreams, and asserts the theoretical importance of collective discussion behind the construction of a society
Kostis Velonis, Loneliness on Common Ground: How Can Society Do What Each Person Dreams,Yang Fu Dong, Seven Intellectuals in a Bamboo Forest and Other Stories, and Marios Spiliopoulos, the Landscape of Being, all until September 5. For more information, see www.emst.gr
18 insider athens | July - August 2010
K
ostis Velonis’s exhibition at the National Museum of Contemporary Art is timely when considering events that have taken place in Greece recently. Held in parallel with Chinese artist Yang Fudong’s video exhibition, Seven Intellectuals in a Bamboo Forest and Other Stories, Clean Slate, a presentation by the xurban_collective in the museum’s project space, and Marios Spiliopoulos’s installation offering, The Landscape of Being, the combination results in a politically charged visual symphony aimed at reflecting on Greece and the world today. “I like Fudong because he is trying to understand the European avant-garde from the point of view of a Chinese artist; he is very close to things happening in China, as I am in Greece. We are trying to interpret history in order to understand or see the present,” Velonis explains on a private tour through his sculptural show. With the memory of the xurban_collective’s photograph and video installation following the idea of commercial shipping and trade, and Spiliopoulos’s focus on church, family and state, the influences of the European avant-garde and Russian constructivism in Velonis’s work immediately slots him into the position of a political artist. Nevertheless, he is quick to stifle any assumption that his show is an explicit or definitive political manifesto. “Of course there are the political connotations as well, but it’s not only that. In the past, I was influenced by the Bauhaus school and even Scandinavian design, which is completely different than the avant-garde movements,” he insists. “Essentially, I am interested in the way we design the environment,” remaining true to his PhD in Architecture from the N.T.U.A University of Athens, and background in Cultural Studies from the London Consortium as well as Fine Arts from the Paris VIII University.“The only reason I reference Russian Constructivism is to analyse what is happening today. Many of the ethical points I am trying to analyse are similar – the question of revolution, and the difference between art as a decorative object or a tool for thinking.”
Gesturing towards Gaining Socialism While Losing Your Wife (After Popova’s Set Construction for Le Cocu Magnifique, 1922), 2009, he notes; “For me, each work has its own history.” A direct reference to Liubov Popova, a prominent female artist of the Russian avant-garde, the replicated sculpture is a study into political and social mechanisms of the time. Originally a set for a house built with aesthetic influences of mechanical production in accordance with the political and cultural trends of a burgeoning Soviet Russia,Velonis questions why the Constructivists hated domesticity so much, having added curtains and a bird’s nest to the sculpture to domesticize it. He concludes; “If you want to change, you should first try to realise the revolution in your house first. The more we need a utopia, the more we destroy our personal affairs.” As we climb up the tower How to Build Democracy While Making Rhetorical Comments (After Klucis’ Design For Propaganda Kiosk, Screen and Loudspeaker Platform, 1922), 2009,Velonis ventures that the show is an “homage to the public forum, where you should be able to discuss everything.” At the same time, the tower and the stage below it, the works and the placement of them feel somewhat out of place. “The idea for the tower came from a drawing by Klucis, a Latvian artist who was also the most Communist of the Russian avant-garde,” he says. Ironically, Klucis took part in the aesthetic construction of the Soviet Union’s ideals, but was eventually jailed for his efforts, one of the main reasons why Constructivism is a problematic artistic movement to reference.Velonis built the tower as a combination between Klucis’s propaganda kiosk and the Gulag tower, the last structure Klucis saw before he died, “as many people did,”Velonis relays. Essentially,Velonis’s
work visually represents the evolution of an ideology that mutated into something sinister and unrecognizable, and the supposition that this is the life cycle of any ideology. Looking at Life Without Tragedy, 2009, and Life Without Democracy, 2009, inspired by ancient theatres,Velonis is an artist who does not believe in political statement so much as political discourse surrounding constructs that define societies. “The ancient Greeks used theatre as a tool to criticise the democracy of their own times. As a sculptor, I am much closer to this idea. Sculpture for me is based on theatre – a kind of social sculpture. I am interested in objects and their social connotations. There is no avant-garde anymore, but we have a right to revisit the avant-garde and its themes,”Velonis says. Is it good or bad that there are no avant-garde movements? From what will constructs that define the 21st Century emerge? “Today, there is a difference between the Greek notion of democracy and the way democracy really works. It is one of the reasons why I am trying to understand its origins. Democracy is an illusion – as such, people don’t want to discuss it. But only through discussion do we have the possibility to make things more democratic,”Velonis proclaims as we turn to discuss the recent string of protests and strikes in Greece as a democratic action.“The riots are different because democracy functions under the rules of democracy, which has laws. Most of the time revolts are not necessary; sometimes revolts turn to dictatorships. We should learn from history,” he says, highlighting society’s greatest folly - it never seems to learn from its mistakes. In the context of this show, is that why the present looks a bit like the past? It’s something to talk about. i
insider athens | July - August
2010
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Art
Bucharest’s tryst
with history Stephanie Bailey discovers Bucharest while investigating the architectural themes behind the 4th Bucharest Biennale, Handlung: On Producing Possibilities, curated by the youngest biennale curator in history, 23-year-old Felix Vogel
From left to right: Bucharest Beennale 4, image from the installation, 2010. Courtesy Pavilion, journal for politics and culture. Installation of Kalle Brolin. Bucharest Beennale 4,, image from the installation, 2010. Courtesy Pavilion, journal for politics and culture. From left to right installation of: Maryam Jafri, Mona Vatamanu & Florin Tudor, Martin Beck. Bucharest Beennale 4,, image from the installation, 2010. Courtesy Pavilion, journal for politics and culture. From back to front installation of: Ângela Ferreira, Åsa Sonjasdotter.
20 insider athens | July - August 2010
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rriving in Bucharest for the city’s fourth Biennale, my taxi driver, Ernst, gives me a crash course on Romanian reality. He tells me of his Transylvanian origins, Saxon roots, German education and Hungarian nationality, wrapped up in Romanian citizenship. He continues to describe influences of the Habsburg Empire, Ottoman Empire and Soviet Russia on the country. Later, Vlad Iorga, whose grandfather was Greek, describes Romania, its peoples and its history as ciorba - a chunky, unmixed vegetable soup. The same could be said of Bucharest’s architecture, an eclectic array of styles reflecting the evolution of a city that transformed from the 1870s, and flourished during the inter-bellum, when Bucharest’s elegant architecture and sophisticated elite earned the nickname, the Little Paris of the East. The 19th Century Hotel Grand Continental, recently restored meticulously by architect Daniela Mirea, is a nostalgic nod towards this golden age, when Prince Napoleon, the Emperor’s nephew, stayed at the hotel while visiting King Carol I of Romania, and famed Turkish general Osman Pasha was kept as a prisoner of war during the RussoTurkish war. Comparing past and present images of the hotel on Caleii Victoreii, much has changed. Once-pristine buildings have taken on inner-city grime, and a mix of styles betraying un-reconciled political ideologies of Imperialism, Communism and Capitalism, is somewhat overpowering, something the 4th Bucharest Biennale’s young curator, Felix Vogel, focuses on. “I was always struck by the architecture of the city and this sense of structure it has,” Vogel recalls[1]. The German title, Handlung, which hovers in translation between stories, action and narrative, is thus applied to Bucharest in a way that might reconcile the physical and metaphysical structures of the city and the narratives acted out within it.
In Romania, history feels like a collection of stories. Dining with Manuela Mires at the Athenée Palace Hilton, steps away from Le Diplomate Ballroom, a UNESCO heritage site, she tells me that Bucharest was the centre for international espionage during World War II. Described by Newsweek correspondent ‘The Countess’ Rosie G. Waldeck, a guest from 1940-41, it was “the most notorious inn throughout Europe and the meeting place of the Continental spies, political conspirators, adventurers, concession hunters, and financial manipulators.” Built in 1914, Mires notes due to its Victory Square location, the hotel was a direct witness to the milestones of Romania’s twentieth century – including the overthrow of despotic communist leader Nicolae Ceausescu in 1989, ending a period of communist rule that began in 1947.
might be hitting another rough patch. Driving past Victory Square, Ernst informs me that on the day of the Biennale press opening, some 40,000 protestors will gather before Parliament against the 20% wage cut and 15% pension decrease as a result of Romania’s IMF bailout. Considering the last time a gathering of this number was the ‘89 revolution, Ernst warns me to stay away though is quick to note things won’t get out of hand like in Greece. Funnily enough, a Greek friend calls and tells me to be careful; Romania is the only Eastern Bloc country to overthrow its government violently, after all.
Ceausescu’s demise was directly linked to grandiose building projects that brought Romania to financial ruin. Schemes such as the People’s Palace, the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon, racked up huge international debts. An inherently political structure, “one project invited to take part in the Biennale, La Bomba, is located in a neighbourhood behind the People’s Palace. If you talk with the community, they are always referring to it – they look out of their windows and see the palace.Then you have this huge park around it that you are not allowed to enter; it’s almost like a wasteland. Monumentality gone crazy,”Vogel says incredulously.
In Bucharest, history groans under the weight of human existence and its inherent conflicts, something Handlung: On Producing Possibilities directly engages with. An independent affair surviving solely on corporate sponsors, the young team exposes a new generation determined to embrace the visual arts as a tool for progressive thinking. Having created an effective platform to contemplate structures that define society, the audience is invited to participate in the discourse of change; something of great importance as the 21st century spreads its wings. On restoring or rebuilding architectural relics,Vogel insists; “It’s not the history of these changes that are interesting, but the transitions that lie between the distributions of space.” Transitions are only possible through action - physical structures set the scene. Buildings don’t produce possibilities; people do. i
After 20 years of economic and political reform, it seems Romania
[1] All quotes taken from an interview with Vogel, Bucharest, May 19, 2010.
insider athens | July - August
2010
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Art
Private made public: Keeping it real when it matters the most Marcel Duchamp’s Fountain
With help from the Whitechapel Gallery and its Chief Curator, Achim BorchardtHume, Stephanie Bailey introduces the Whitechapel’s upcoming exhibition that presents key art pieces from Dimitris Daskalopoulos’ private collection
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s the realities of the global financial crisis sinks in and its effects are being clearly felt amongst citizens of countries hardest hit, there is no better time for Keeping It Real, coincidentally the title of the Whitechapel Gallery’s latest exhibition. An arrangement of works from the collection of Greek entrepreneur Dimitris Daskalopoulos by Achim Borchardt-Hume, Chief Curator of the Whitechapel Gallery, inaugurating a program aiming to open up international private collections to the public, the exhibition is divided into four parts running from June 10 – May 22, 2011; an epic offering in reflection of arguably urgent times. Featuring international artists predominately working in the last thirty years, as well as a selection of a younger generation, Daskalopoulos insists “Art is both a subjective and collective endeavour which…appears an utterly natural and self-evident - yet also strangely enigmatic metaphor for our shared existence. By putting different works of art in dialogue with one another, I attempt to find an analogy for the constant tension between life and death, between our desire for immortality and the futility of many of our daily struggles, an expression of what it means to be human with all its challenges.” As such, with sub-sections entitled The Corporeal, which looks at the treatment of the human body as a stage for psychological, social and ideological struggle, Subversive Abstraction, which revisits the conventions of modern painting, Current Disturbance, a presentation of Lebanese-born and London-based Palestinian artist Mona Hatoum’s landmark installation, and Material Intelligence, which looks at the playful appropriation of material, Keeping It Real acts as both a mirror and handbook for survival in the new millennium. Today, nothing is certain, which may explain the concentration on art production that emphasises the use of material. Sherrie Levine’s 1996 bronze replica of Marcel Duchamp’s groundbreaking presentation of a latrine as a readymade sculpture acting as the starting point for the entire
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exhibition programme alongside the 1917 original, the updated version of Duchamp’s Fountain sets the exhibition tone – the past has become a gilded version of itself, while the present is a collection of melancholic interpretations of what has been, what is, and what is yet to come. As Arte Povera in the late 60s and 70s, and the Young British Artists in the late 80s and 90s defined themselves through the use of cheap, easily available and ‘readymade’ materials, so today’s generation must come to terms with the ramifications of actions and events that took place in the 20th century in order to understand what is happening now, using the physical and conceptual matter available to them. Indeed, regardless of the debate that questions art’s role in the discourse of social change, perhaps now is the time for positive contribution for the sake of dialogue, no matter where it comes from and through what means. With the recent exhibition at the New Museum, New York, of important works from the collection of another Greek collector, Dakis Ioannou, as part of the Imaginary Museum program that also showcases private collections having been cynically blasted as being an entirely commercial event, perhaps some people are missing the point. At the end of the day the issue of ownership bears little relevance when weighed against the importance of making these works available for public consumption.What care does an art or philosophy student have of ownership or commercial worth when the ideas conveyed are more relevant to their intellectual development? What ever happened to social value? Borchardt-Hume agrees; “Collectors and collections are a vital part of the varied landscape needed for art and artists to blossom. Works need to be taken care of and the task of doing so cannot be fulfilled by public institutions alone.The question thus is not ‘if ’ public and private should collaborate but ‘how’. The collaboration between the Whitechapel Gallery and the D Daskalopoulos Collection was conducted in a spirit of curatorial and intellectual independence with a view to bringing a range of seminal works into the public arena, to encourage a fresh reading of well-known works and to bring them together with less familiar ones.” Aiming to rethink the model by which the art world operates in a world that can no longer sustain the economic models that have in part defined artistic movements of the last decades, fresh is good. Here’s hoping the exhibition lives up to its aspirations. i The Corporeal, the first installment of Keeping it Real on show in the Whitechapel Collections Gallery runs until 5 September 2010. The display includes two emblematic works: Louise Bourgeois’ Fillette (Sweeter Version) (1968 -99) and Marcel Duchamp’s Fountain (1917 - 64), as well as key works by Marina Abramovic, Robert Gober, David Hammons, Sherrie Levine and Sarah Lucas. For more information, see www.whitechapel.org
Coastal cruising Make your way through the city and towards the beach this summer in the new Citroen C3. Its massive front windshield, doubling as a sunroof, offers panoramic views, while the ‘sun light control’ system allows you to adjust how much light beams through the window. With a sophisticated interior and sleek exterior, the C3 is a model of ingenuity.
insider athens | July - August
2010
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Entertainment
Creating a musical legacy After a long and successful career at Carnegie Hall and concert performances all over the world, Peter Tiboris continues to bring harmony to the Aegean. Now in its 6th year, the Festival of the Aegean is one of the premier cultural events of the summer
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orn and raised in the United States, Peter Tiboris made his professional conducting debut in New York City with the American Symphony Orchestra in 1984 at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall. Since then, he has conducted in the world’s most prestigious venues with world-class artists. In 2000, Tiboris combined his passion for music with his love for Greece to found the International Festival of the Aegean in Syros, which presents performances at the Apollo Theatre, built in 1864. Since then the Festival has presented opera (II barbiere di Siviglia, Don Giovanni, Zanetto, Cavalleria rusticana), symphonic and choral works, Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Homer’s The Iliad (Book I), recitals, and Greek folk music with an array of international artists. What inspired you to begin the Festival of the Aegean and why the island of Syros? I have travelled to Greece every summer since 1968 and thought about bringing chamber groups to play outside, which is a summer tradition, but the fact that you rarely get good acoustics outside always bothered me. When I happened unto the Apollo in 1999, I knew
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immediately this was where I wanted to be - an historic and beautiful theatre. Why Syros? Because of the Apollo Theatre. Did you ever expect the festival to become so successful, now in its 6th year? I have been at Carnegie Hall for 26 years; I have performed more than 500 concerts at that venue, over 1000 worldwide, and nothing has been more difficult than that. I knew that Syros would be a challenge but in the end, the cooperation on the island and the artists willing to participate have been wonderful. What are your hopes for the future of the Festival of the Aegean? To make it world wide - the Salzburg of the Aegean. We are on pace for that. You have inspired many young musicians hoping to make a career out of music and to travel the world, what is your advice to them? Always put the music first and the business will take care of itself. How do you measure success? Interesting question - musically, by overcoming the aesthetic and the challenges that the music demands. Secondly, by the publics’ reaction and attendance. Is there somewhere you would like to perform that you have not been yet? Well, the Metropolitan Opera, Musikverein, and La Scala. Who have your major influences been? My father (clarinettist and psaltis), Bernstein, Mozart, and Beethoven. i
Music
Hitting the high note W
ith over fifteen years of formal voice training and several performances in Greece and Canada, soprano Sofia Antonakos has chosen a career in one of the most demanding, competitive, and structured musical genres - opera. Currently in Athens studying with the Opera Studio of the Greek National Opera, Sofia is an up-andcoming talent that we’re likely to hear more of. Coming from a family of opera enthusiasts, was it a natural choice for you to pursue opera? Opera was passed down through my mother’s side of the family. I did not discover this until I was 20 when my aunt introduced me to it. During World War II, my grandmother, then a young working girl in Montreal, secretly donated a quarter of her salary to support Metropolitan Opera radio broadcasts. The fact that opera was passed down to me through my ancestors made me love it even more than I already did. You began private voice training at the age of 10. Describe that experience and the discipline required at such a young age. At 10 years old you want to be with your friends and just be a kid. I remember wanting to go out on Halloween night and not being able to because I had to be in class until nine o’clock in the evening. Growing up in a small town (Lake Louise, Alberta) made it even more difficult since my mother would have to drive me to classes in Banff or Calgary, two hours away from home.This was my life for six years, back and forth all year long. In the long run it all paid off, but at that age, it is difficult to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Were you ever tempted to pursue a singing career in other genres that are more popular? Yes, when I was studying in Calgary I decided to take a break from opera and try jazz and musical theatre. I wanted to experience a different kind of music and see if I preferred music that was not so structured, but I came right back to opera after that. I enjoyed singing jazz and musical theatre and I still do, but I cannot escape my true loves - high notes, drama, passion and beauty that only exist in Puccini, Wagner, Mozart and many other great classical composers. You performed during the State Visit of the Governor General of Canada to Greece. How did it feel to represent both your countries? I have always wanted to represent both of my countries. In Canada I sang for the Greek community and in Greece I sang for the Governor General of Canada, Michaelle Jean and the Canadian Ambassador to Greece, Dr. Renata Wielgosz. I am proud to be Canadian; it has given me all the opportunities to pursue my career. What are your goals and aspirations for the future? My goals are to continue my career in Canada and study operatic performance at University of Toronto. I am looking forward to competing again in the winter and getting ready for the school year. I am also planning to audition at the Canadian Opera Company in Toronto. My aspirations are to one day sing at the Met in New York and La Scala in Milan - that would be a dream come true. i
insider athens | July - August
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Fast lane... Olympic cups of cheer Specializing in porcelain home wares, Ionia has launched a line of original plates, cups, tea sets, coasters and mugs inspired by the Athens Special Olympics 2011. With bright colours and mascot Apollon featured on many pieces, the line aims to celebrate and reflect the spirit of the games. Proceeds from product sales will benefit the Greek National Special Olympics Team. www.ionia.gr
No reservations In stark contrast to the upscale eateries characteristic of Mykonos, Bakalo enters the gastronomic scene with casual Greek cuisine, traditional island style and subtle touches of modern design. With a large family-style dining table as the centerpiece of the indoor dining area, it is impossible not to enjoy a home-style meal with a large parea. Outdoor dining in the 18th century courtyard is just as inviting and Chef Costas Delikostopoulos does not disappoint. www.bakalo.gr
Bronze beauties 8th Country Music Festival Nikos Garavelas brings country music to Greece once again, featuring Jamie O’Neal, one of the genre’s most respected artists. Known for her powerhouse vocals O’Neil is also one of the industry’s most prolific and accomplished songwriters. Other artists include George Gakis & The Troublemakers with their rock’n roll, south rock, honky-tonk rhythms and Hariklia Hats, a strong presence on the Greek country music scene. Performances will take place on July 10 at 9 pm, Theatre Vrahon.
Edgar Degas’ sculptures, all seventy four of them, including the famed Little Dancer, Aged Fourteen, on loan to the Herakleidon Museum from the M.T. Abraham Center for Visual Arts will be on display at the museum in Thissio until August 14, 2010 before it moves on to the National Gallery of Bulgaria in Sofia in September. For those of you who haven’t visited the exhibition yet, this is the time to familiarize yourself with Degas’ bronzes as well as with the ground-breaking work carried out by the Herakleidon Museum. The Little Dancer, Aged Fourteen © «The Degas Sculpture Project LTD» / Photography: Joseph Coscia, Jr.
Historic hotels, new technology Historic Hotels of Europe has launched its very own iPhone application where users can easily access information about historic hotels throughout Europe, including the Yades Heritage and Hospitality Hotels of Greece. The app works through a search list or interactive map, where hotels are identified and located, followed by a full description and photos of each hotel. Users are able to communicate by telephone, send emails, make reservations, and share on Facebook and Twitter with a few taps on an iPhone screen. The application is available for free download via iTunes.
26 insider athens | July - August 2010
Fast lane Freshen up your summer
Exclusively at the GB Spa
With the addition of ice cream cakes to an already delectable menu, Fresh pastry shops offer a cool treat this summer. Available in three flavours - fresh mango, classic delicate white chocolate, and caramel, the combination of cake and ice cream creates a unique texture and refreshing taste that satisfies your sweet tooth. www.freshpastryshops.gr
Didier Guillon of Valmont recently announced the launch of a new treatment created especially for the GB Spa. The 2½ hour treatment follows Valmont’s motto, “beauty is a masterpiece,” combining the best of facial and body treatments to create a complete experience of pampered luxury. www.gbspa.gr
Plastic fantastic Jean-Paul Gaultier teams up with Melissa to redefine the strappy stiletto sandal this season. A mixture of metallic materials and layers of transparent plastic are cleverly woven to create an original design in a variety of colors. This wardrobe must-have will be available in August at concept store SHOP on Ermou and at SHOP Attica CityLink. www.melissaplasticdreams.com
Gourmet dining in Lefkada If you’re cruising along the Ionian islands this summer, make sure you schedule a meal at Trattoria Vezene, a small, cozy northern Italian seafood restaurant, surrounded by jasmine, basil, and lavender, in the inner square of Vathy port, on Meganisi (Lefkada), facing Onassis’ Scorpios. As owner, creator and chef Ari Vezenes, who splits his time between Meganisi, Athens and New York puts it, ‘our sole purpose is to provide high gastronomy, in a casual elegant environment with attentive, practically invisible service.’ And that is in ample evidence at the trattoria.With a menu that has such delectable choices as steamed razor clams in a chivejalapeno brodetto for starters to Kolohtypa lobster risotto with Anax Chardonnay for mains, and applegianduja martini for dessert,Trattoria Vezenes is a foodie’s delight. In just its second year, and open from May to October, Vezenes says, ‘we seek hard to find ingredients from the earth and the sea’. Not surprising, as Ari Vezenes is a member of the Slow Food movement and sits on the voting committee that picks the world’s top 50 restaurants!
Jetting over the Atlantic Continental Airlines has re-launched direct flights from Athens to Newark Liberty International Airport, making “crossing the pond” easier than ever. Service will run daily until September 6, five times a week from September 7 to November 15 and four times a week throughout the winter season. www.continental.com
insider athens | July - August
2010
27
A day
in Athens
George Schira recounts his first trip to Greece as an aide to former US president Jimmy Carter, and contrasts events of that time with events of today
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arrived at the Athens Airport on May 27, 2010, in the year that marked the 25th Anniversary of the TWA hijacking and my first trip to Greece to which I had come as an aide to former President Jimmy Carter. Back then we began our trip in Corfu (Kerkyra in Greek) meeting Prime Minister Andreas Papandreou.The plan was to restore confidence in Greek tourism and raise money for the Carter Center and Presidential Library being built in Atlanta.The hidden agenda was to meet Ecumenical Patriarch Dimitrios and leaders of the Turkish government in Istanbul to assist in a decades-old effort to rebuild the Patriarchal headquarters of the world wide Orthodox Church in the old quarter of the Phanar to which the Church had been relegated since that capital of the New Roman Empire fell to the Turks. My own agenda then was a personal one, to pursue and ratify my remote origins as a Greek. Papandreou had been dealing with a rather tense modern-day geographical dispute with Turkey.What also emerged from the trip was the drawing up of a commercial agreement between Greece and Turkey, sponsored by our
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Flashback
ARF
“Civilizations rise and fall, leaders come and go, but the people, like my immigrant father, American-born mother and her immigrant parents, seem always to find hope amid the ruins and start
over, living full lives.”
host, George P. Livanos, who was American-born and the largest ship owner in Greece at the time, under the theory that successful commerce equaled peace in the region. Papandreou ultimately decided not to sign the agreement despite the willingness of his Turkish counterparts. That trip was highly successful. The Carter Presidential Center, as we called it then, got built as did the Patriarchal headquarters, though the latter required a dozen or so more trips on my part working with the Metropolitan who was then sort of Secretary of State to Ecumenical Patriarch Dimitrios and is today Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew and with Turkish leaders. My career as an aide to the former President, however, came to a sorry end, but that is another story. Between that time and now, I learned some Greek, became Greek Orthodox, and came to better understand Ancient and Modern Greek history and the glory that was Byzantium, but my prolonged exposure to Greek Americans was somewhat disappointing as many of them seemed to exhibit the same ambiguity and ambivalence of my own identity crisis. This time around, I planned a leisurely lunch on my birthday with an old friend, ship owner Nicos Vernicos, President of International Chamber of Commerce-Hellas, not revealing my age but only the occasion of the anniversary of my first trip. However, Nicos had other plans and before I could get a moment’s rest, he arranged a whirlwind of activities, beginning with a speech by a prominent Greek American “Harvard/Oxford scholar” on Greek Foreign Policy in the 21st Century at the glorious old Parliament building and ending with an evening in Kastri, the town north of Athens that is the home of the Greek Prime Minister, George Papandreou. The occasion was a presentation of the leader of the five-man Greek team that successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest in 2004 to little acclaim and with virtually no support from the Greek government. The leader, Panagiotis Kotronaros, was joined by a panel of businessmen and the idea was to tie the methods and strategy of that feat, under the rubric of “leadership”, to modern management and business. The morning panel consisted of a strange assortment of government leaders, including a representative of the Greek Communist Party. Everything was conducted in Greek, of course, and I could only catch the drift and gist of the speeches, but one thing caught my attention, the main speaker’s proposal that all European debtor countries collectively go to the European Central Bank as the economic crisis was not just Greek, but European, and, indeed, worldwide, and everyone bore responsibility.The comments, an exercise in Athenian democracy, ranged from spontaneous expressions of denial or rationalization to anger and over-analysis, but never to resignation and acceptance.
Prior to the trip, I had followed the American media coverage of the “Greek Debt Crisis” with all the usual clichés from “It’s Greek to me”, “The Greek Tragedy” and “The Trojan Horse” to the pejorative characterization of the debtor countries as “pigs” (Portugal, Italy, Ireland, Greece and Spain), with debt-ridden Great Britain being given a pass, as if each country was a place on some vast Monopoly Board and we were playing with fake money to buy and sell properties. In fact, these were cultures and peoples and even great civilizations of the first order without which there would have been no America, no Christianity as we’ve come to know it, no Renaissance, no Enlightenment, no American or French Revolution, no capitalism, and, mostly due to Greece, no democracy. But I do admit to American impatience at the endless proceedings, exhibited even more dramatically at the evening’s event when the successful expedition leader would not let go of the microphone and guests spoke at length, sometimes spontaneously beginning a dialogue with the speaker, with the panel interspersing their presentations. There had indeed been no support from the Greek government, and the team even providing their own Greek flag to be erected at the summit. But the topic was “leadership” and only my friend Nicos seemed to grasp the moment and engage the audience. That is what it all came down to – “leadership”, whether of the young and promising Greek Prime Minister or of America’s young and promising President, who held great hope and achieved a great deal, but was being weighed down by the leadership demands of a “jobless recovery” and a devastating oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. The trip was a coming of age, or coming to terms with age, my life and experience and with civilization and its discontents, 25 years after that first momentous Odyssey. I had seen seven decades of life, with ups and downs, but here in Greece I was confronted by five millennia of history. Civilizations rise and fall, leaders come and go, but the people, like my immigrant father, American-born mother and her immigrant parents, seem always to find hope amid the ruins and start over, living full lives. Tomorrow I shall go to the new Acropolis Museum where I will not feel so old or doubtful and remember to prize individual heroism, the true wonder of human culture, and the importance of leadership in our free and vital societies. After all, we are all Greeks. i George Schira was the first Executive Director of the Carter Presidential Center. He lived in Greece from 1989 to 1991. Since 2000 he has served as a communications consultant to the Archbishop Iakovos Leadership 100 Endowment Fund.
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a n A
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FRAPPE INVENTED IN 1957 AT THESSALONIKI INTERNATIONAL FAIR. At the exhibit for the Greek distributor of Nestlé products, sales representative Dimitrios Vakondios grabbed a shaker meant for a cocoa drink, filled it instead with cold water, and shook it vigorously. The unexpected burst of foam spilled onto his business suit, a messy mishap that heralded the birth of frappé
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FIRST THING MANY FOREIGNERS SEE WHEN THEY ARRIVE AT ATHENS AIRPORT Even before they reach passport control, travelers are greeted by an long illuminated sign displaying an enticing frappé ad. ONE FRAPPE AS STRONG AS FOUR ESPRESSOS. A single frappé prepared with two level tablespoons of instant coffee may contain over 400 mg of caffeine, making it as potent as four espresso shots. BIGGEST FRAPPE GREEK MYTH That Lentzos Café in the Pangrati district of Athens adds beaten egg whites to their frappés to make them extra creamy. The assertion is denied by legendary owner Christos Lentzos. His “secret” formula relies only on optimum dosage and “batch” blending techniques.
Info Frappé recipe
FRAPPE... ...is a French word for a Greek invention usually made with a Swiss coffee from the Ivory Coast. The word frappé is French for “hit”, “struck”, or, as applied to drinks like champagne and coffee, “iced”.
Myth
Frappé Facts
nyone who has spent a few minutes at a café in Greece will inform you that the Frappé is so much more than just a national beverage. It is a symbol of idyllic summers in Greece. As the authors of Frappe Nation,Vivian Constantinopoulos and Daniel Young, observe, “ Frappé lifts moods, stimulates conversation, announces your connection to a lifestyle unique to Greece, and connects you to it when you’re away. Now in its fiftieth year, it is nothing less than a modern Greek elixir.” And coffee drinking is not a rushed affair. The afore-mentioned frappe gurus call them ‘coffee marathoners’ and ‘heroes of restraint’. “Why so much time for a coffee? In Athens and throughout Greece, communal coffee drinking is a pleasure and passion to be savored slowly – siga-siga – and in a manner that is cool and relaxed – chalara. A wet, cold antidote to dry, hot summers, the frappé is an elixir that lasts. The foam endures as long as the sipper wants it to. Making time for frappé means making time for seeing friends, relaxing, playing tavli (Greek backgammon), gossiping, solving the problems of the world, reading the newspaper, and enjoying the beautiful sights– shapely ones that are 20 years old and sculptured ones that are 2,500 years old.” Examining the short, frothy history of frappé is an opportunity to reflect on the long, weighty history of the Greeks. 1) Place 1 rounded teaspoon instant coffee, 1-to-2 teaspoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons water in a shaker, jar, or drink mixer. Cover and shake well for 30 seconds or, if using a standing or hand-held drink mixer, process for 15 seconds to produce a thick, lightbrown foam. 2) Place a few ice cubes in a tall glass. Slowly pour the coffee foam into the glass. Add 1-to-2 tablespoons milk (whole, lowfat or evaporated) and then enough water to fill the glass.
For the frappe experience try the Starbucks frappe or ask for a frappe variation at coffee right or simply recreate the experience at home with Nescafe, the instant coffee brand linked to frappe.To learn more about frappe, read Frappe Nation byVivian Constantinopoulos and Daniel Young www.frappenation.com
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Cocktails
Yia MAS!
Pictures & texts courtesy of Hellenic Export Promotion Board
Steven Olson creates cocktail recipes to toast the summer
Mavrodaphne Cooler
Ouzotini
2 oz. Mavrodaphne ½ oz. Crème de Cassis ½ oz. white rum 1 oz. lemon juice 2 oz. cranberry juice
1 oz. vodka 1 oz. Ouzo 1 oz. Peach Schnapps ½ oz. fresh lime juice chifonade of 5-6 mint leaves
Serve over ice in a high-ball glass. Garnish with mint sprig and lemon twist.
Shake with ice and strain into a sugarrimmed martini glass.
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The taste of fruit combined with the nutrition of non-fat milk in three unique, delicious combinations
No other fruit drink compares
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Dive right in Enjoy a swim and an Insider discount at the city’s oases of cool. Make sure to carry your copy of Insider to avail of the special offer
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Pools
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Astir Palace 1
Novotel 7
Astir Palace Resort allows nonmembers access to its beachside pool during weekdays for 50€. Insider discount: 1 complimentary cocktail at the Westin pool bar. Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.890.2000
Novotel’s rooftop pool is open to the public for 20€ per person. Insider discount: 25% off the entrance fee. Michail Voda 4, Athens Tel: 210.820.0700
St. George Lycabettus 4 The roof garden pool atop Lycabettus Hill offers a complimentary non-alchoholic beverage (coffee, juice or soft drink), beach towel and pool access at 34€ for adults and 17€ for children under the age of 16. Insider discount: 10% off the entrance fee weekdays. Kleomenous 2, Athens Tel: 210.729.0711
Athenaeum Intercontinental 2 The Intercontinental summer special includes use of a superior room and the pool from 11 am to 7 pm for 89€. In addition, receive 20% off on lunch at Cafezoe and 20% off on room service. I-Spa offers a body scrub and Swedish massage for 75€ per person or an Invigorating Express Facial for 30€ per person. Complimentary use of gym is included. Insider discount: free room upgrade. Syngrou 89-93, Athens Tel: 210.920.6000
Semiramis (left page) The colourful Semiramis pool is available for 50 euros per person on weekdays and 60 euros on weekends. Insider discount: 10% off entrance on weekdays Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari Tel: 210.628.4400
Hilton 6 The Hilton pool is open to non-guests for 35€ on weekdays and 55€ during weekends. A 25% discount on three month memberships will be offered through July 30. Vas. Sofias 46, Athens,Tel: 210.728.1000
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Ledra Marriott 5 Accomodation from noon to 6 pm on weekdays, use of the swimming pool, Jacuzzi, health club, sauna and a 20€ credit for Panorama Restaurant make up the Marriott’s summer special. The price for a double room for single use is 98€, plus 19€ for each additional adult. Free for children under twelve. Insider discount: free drink (choice of wine, beer, or non -alcoholic beverage) Syngrou 115, Athens.Tel: 210.930.0000
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Life Gallery 3 This unique glass-enclosed pool is accessible for 25€ on weekdays and 35€ on weekends. Insider discount: 10% off the entrance fee. Thisseos 103, Ekali Tel: 210.626.0400
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7 Show your copy of Insider for the above mentioned discounts
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a place in the sun
One-stop shop Situated on one of the most beautiful peninsulas in Attica, Grand Resort Lagonissi operates a private beach complete with bars, gourmet restaurants, gelateria water sports, and shops. For those who’d like to make a real evening of it, Grand Resort caters to a wide array of palates and budgets from Kohylia for those in the mood for sushi and Polynesian cuisine, Captain’s House for exquisite Italian or Galazia Akti for creative Greek cuisine by chef Yiannis Baxevannis.The beach at Grand Resort Lagonissi is truly a one-stop shop for all ages and entrance cards are available. Address: 40th km Athens-Sounio road, Lagonissi Entrance: 8 euros on weekdays, 17 euros on weekends Umbrella + sun-bed: included in entrance fee Hours: 09:00-20:00
Young and restless Voula Beach A is one of two organized beaches in Voula and is especially appealing to children and teenagers alike. The long, sandy beach includes a restaurant, bar, changing rooms, and water slides. A lively beach full of activity, Voula Beach A also hosts exciting events throughout the summer. Address: Alkyonidon 4,Voula Entrance: 5.50 on weekdays, 6.50 on weekends Umbrella + sun-bed: additional 4 euros Hours: 8:00-20:00
In the footsteps of the gods The ancient Athenians considered Sounio the ideal location for a temple dedicated to the god of the sea . . . and with good reason.Taking a dip into clear-blue waters with the Temple of Poseidon as a backdrop is an experience like no other. The beach is dotted with umbrellas and lounge chairs, a few hotels and a couple of tavernas perfect for an after-swim bite. Address: 68th km Athens-Sounio road, Sounio Entrance: free Umbrella + two sun-beds: 10 euros, free after 19:00 Hours: No time limit
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Beaches 4l
photo (c) Michel Devanakis
A pine-dotted beach Just three kilometres off the Tomb of Marathonas, Schinias is a stretch of fine sandy beach at the end of a pine wood, whose trees not only add to the scenic beauty of this picture-perfect beach but also provide much needed respite from the scorching sun. Popular with families as well as lovers of water-sports, Schinias also has a host of options for
a post-swim meal at one of the several seaside tavernas that dot the waterfront.. Entrance: free Umbrella & sun-beds: price range from 6 to 10 euros Hours: No time limit
Water sports galore For thrill-seekers, fun-seekers and athletic types,Yabanaki in Varkiza offers an array of water sports, rides and activities. Along with water bicycles and banana boats, water ski and wind surfing lessons are also available. The beach bars and loud music create a lively atmosphere and the fun-park provides entertainment for all. Address: Akti EOT Varkizas,Vari Entrance: 7 euros on weekdays, 8 euros on weekends Umbrella + sun-bed: free Monday - Thursday, 5 euros Friday - Sunday / Hours: 8:00-20:00
Athens’ glamorous Riviera Since its complete transformation, Astir Beach has become synonymous with elegance and style. Pristine white sand, plush teak sun-beds, modern facilities and unparalleled service ensure an excellent beach experience. This is definitely a place to see and be seen so sit back and enjoy the atmosphere through your designer sunglasses. Address: Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni Entrance: 15 euros on weekdays, 25 euros on weekends Umbrella + two sun-beds: included in entrance fee Hours: 8:00-20:00
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Nightlife
Cool clubs
for hot summer nights Each summer, the city’s hottest clubs migrate to the coast, often re-opening under different names in new locations and with a new décor, but a few endure as perennial favourites. Venetia Karapanou gives a rundown of this summer’s top ten hot-spots for clubbing Check Insider’s listings for club addresses and contact details
Island Aptly named, walking into this ‘mother of all clubs’ (Island has been around for sixteen years) makes you feel like you’re on an islandwhite-washed walls, bursts of purple bougainvillea and a breathtaking view of the Saronic coast - and you’re transported miles away from the city’s grime and snarling traffic. Add sushi, friendly service and a breezy atmosphere to the mix and its little wonder that Island is such a draw for Athens’ well-heeled and sun-kissed it-crowd. You’ll need reservations, negotiation skills and several good-looking companions to make an entry, but once you’ve dealt with those annoying details, you’re guaranteed a swell evening.
Baraonda
Balthazar
This glamorous bar-restaurant is peopled with young trendy Athenians sipping on Daiquiris to the sounds of mainstream music in a swanky yet unpretentious setting. An equally popular winter hang-out, Baraonda is great for office parties, private receptions or special moments between friends and even intimate dates (notso-intimate if you scream to beat the din).
Maintaining its fresh and trendy vibe, Balthazar continues to be a magnet for hip bar-goers. Housed in a gorgeous, renovated neoclassical building in the heart of Athens, Balthazar is a great setting to watch Athens’ rich and famous at play.The lovely outdoor courtyard creates a refreshing summer retreat to down champagne cocktails while people-watching.
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Nightlife Villa Mercedes Just off Pireos St, this happening late-night lounge fills up with sophisticated twenty to thirty somethings in micro-minis and Jimmy Choos by eleven but the real partying kicks off at 2a.m. With celebrity Greek DJ Vasilis Chilichristos presiding, you can expect a memorable clubbing experience and all-night dancing.This summer’s guest list includes Dennis Ferrer, David Guetta and WILL.I.AM among others. Gossip and drinks flow freely at the al fresco restaurant but don’t expect to sit down –or even get in – without advance table reservations.
Akrotiri Boutique Well worth the mile-long wait at the door, this classic seafront club-restaurant has it all. International DJs keeping the multi-level dance floors packed with R&B, house, hip-hop and ska (Sundays however are reserved for Greek music) and Christopher Clessiene’s exquisite fusion cuisine. Stunning sea views, plush décor and an impossibly good-looking crowd (that’s where they all go) make up for the astronomically-priced bill you will end up paying eventually.
Eleven
Mojito Bay
Bang in the middle of Athens’ business district, Maroussi, Eleven offers the same lively atmosphere as bar Ten (which remains closed during the summer). Packed with an eclectic crowd of young executives and the jeunesse d’oree from Kifissia, Eleven also has an outdoor seating area in the summer which provides momentary relief from the high decibel levels and soaring temperatures indoors. Definitely not a place you’d want to turn up without your designer handbag.
“Time 2 sunshine your life” is the slogan of Mojito Bay, a newcomer to the Athenian night scene. Nestled in a crook on the winding road to Sounion, just the location - a protected creek with swaying palm trees and inviting sunbeds – should send you into instant vacation mode. Add a dash of inspiring cocktails and some fine Cuban cuisine and its easy to see why Mojito Bay has been an instant success.With a calendar of events that reads like a who’s who of international and domestic DJs and live performances that last until the wee hours, Mojito Bay is definitely the youngest club to make it into my top ten. Almost as a tease to work out the night’s excesses, the club also offers beach activities such as yoga, aqua aerobics and meditation!
Wynn For clubbing under the stars, this new addition to the Athens club scene is already gaining a reputation as the toughest club to get into on weekend nights. Greek music fans can enjoy live performances every Wednesday, while Sundays are dedicated to R&B and Hip Hop. Home to Athens’ most spirited and fun-loving crowd, chances are you will exit the club dancing.
Balux This charming beach house morphs from family hang-out by day to chic restaurant and lounge club by night. Chef Carattoni’s refined cuisine and the ‘halara’ atmosphere at Balux, make it a mellower choice than other high-octane beach venues.
Akanthus Within the same complex as Balux, Akanthus again follows the same chameleon-like metamorphosis from daytime frappe and beach hang-out to a hip bar-restaurant by night. Here, the bold and beautiful aren’t afraid to dig their designer heels into sand and despite the gourmet options on the menu, manage to look waif-thin.The music is mainstream and is a draw for clubbers throughout the summer. (Did anyone mention the crisis?)
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Ermou 12.44 Shoppers and business lunchers stroll through the cobbled streets of Ermou hoping to grab a bargain en route to the Kapnikarea church that sits right in the middle of the street, a favourite meeting point for Athenians.
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Time lapse
Ermou 20.54 By dusk, the shutters come rolling down, the crowds start thinning and the streets are claimed by vendors of imitation bags and pirated CDs as the smells of roasted chestnuts and souvlakia from the kebab houses nearby permeates the air.
Photos by Angelos Giotopoulos insider athens | July - August
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Multicolour your Summer! Marilicious shows you how to rock colours for a flashy yet elegant summer wardrobe for all occasions
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7 1. The full-length goddess gown in yellow is amazing on tanned skin. Emilio Pucci, available at www.emiliopucci.com Insider Tip: When wearing a flashy colour dress, choose nude colour accessories. The focus point is the dress. 2. Give a casual twist to your outfit by marrying this silky green jumpsuit (Marc by Marc Jacobs, Xanthou 3, Kolonaki) with 3. matching sandals (Christian Louboutin, available at Enny di Monaco, Herodotou 23, Kolonaki) and an 4. orange Birkin bag in exotic skin (Hermès ‘Quentin Bertoux’,Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki). 5. And because your lips should enjoy some colour as well:‘In the Groove’ lipstick MAC, available at Attica Department store). Lover of the black bikini? Well, coloured bikinis can be chic as well! 6. Shake up your summer with this asymmetric yellow bikini
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(La Perla, Spefsippou 14, Kolonaki)
7. To protect your eyes from the sun: Dior sunglasses (available at Dior, Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki). 8. Protect your lips: enriched and coloured lip butter sticks with SPF 15 (Korres, available at Attica Department store). Don’t feel like wearing only one colour head-to-toe? Play with accessories! 9. Fabulous pink suede platforms (Sergio Rossi, available at Kalogirou, Irodotou 28, Kolonaki); 10. Enamel bracelets: Mix & match colours and widths! (Hermès ‘Vicente Sahuc’,Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki). 11. Make-up wise, I recommend this pink lip gloss (Glossy Lip Couleur by Make up for ever available at Sephora)
Agora
Men deserve a splash of colour too!
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1. Want to play? Colourful poker set by HERMèS (‘Vicente Sahuc’, available at Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki) 2. Spice up a beige suit by wearing it with a light green shirt, an orange tie, a purple cardigan and a light blue pochette. Oh so chic! (Polo Ralph Lauren, available at Voukourestiou 11, Kolonaki) 3. Add red & silver cuff links (Corneliani, available at Golden Hall, 1st floor) 4. Blue & Pink, shirts by Ermeneglido Zegna (available at Carouzos, Kanari 12, Kolonaki) 5. An orange hat in terry cloth by HERMèS (‘Vicente Sahuc’, available at Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki) 6. A flashy swimsuit by MC2 Saint Barth available at Carouzos, Kanari 12, Kolonaki) 7. Smell delicious with this saffron amber eau de toilette by Korres (available at Attica Department store) 8. Red loafers by Corneliani (available at Golden Hall, 1st floor) 9. The art of wearing blue by Corneliani (available at Golden Hall, 1st floor)
see Insider’s listings for store details
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Panoramic Schinias beach (c) Michel Devanakis
Triple action With a wealth of water sports on offer, summer in Schinias has long been more than just basking in the sun. The success of the Schiniathlon has now made the area a hub for one of the fastest growing sports in Greece: triathlon. Graham Wood donned his rubbers for a day of training and lived to tell the tale.
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’ve always held the sport of triathlon in high esteem. I mean they don’t call the multi-discipline’s marquee event ‘Ironman’ for nothing. While admittedly triathlon is something I’ve admired from afar, a close encounter covering the sport as a journalist at the Athens Olympics in 2004 rubber-stamped my deep respect for it. It wasn’t seeing the hordes of athletes jostling for position and pulling at each other’s Speedos during the frantic swim, nor the energy-sapping bike ride which followed, or even witnessing muscular men and women being reduced to squinting, shaking wrecks as they pushed themselves through the run. It was a Welsh bloke called Marc Jenkins. The name may not mean a lot to people outside of the UK but Jenkins is a British athlete who competed in Athens and was the last man to finish. Pretty unremarkable you might think. The thing is Jenkins was involved in a nasty collision during the cycling leg that rendered his bike useless. But rather than pack in and go home cursing his rotten luck (like I would have definitely done), the lad from Bridgend ran the two remaining kilometers carrying the bike on his shoulders before setting off on the 10kilometre run to place forty-fifth of the fifty who started. His final time was 2:05:33.60, over 15 minutes behind gold medal winner Hamish Carter of New Zealand. Jenkins showed guts of the highest order. And that is what I admire about triathlon; giving up is not an option. “It is a test more against yourself than a competition with others, even though that attitude does tend to change as you become more serious about it,” says Duncan Brabble, one half of TriGreece, an organization he runs with his wife Alex which helps both experienced triathletes and amateurs like me with training. Always one for a test against myself – well there’s less chances of losing – I spent a day training with Duncan, Alex and Christina Bhanos, a recently-converted triathlete and PR guru for the Schiniathlon, at Schinias bay. Duncan seemed a bit perplexed by my request to try out all three sports in one session as this is not the norm for triathlon
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Sports
training, but I was eager to get a taste of the ‘sense of adventure’ that everyone associated with the sport swears by. As Duncan advises, usually the bike and run sections are combined for training purposes – called a brik – while swimming training is often done separately. After borrowing a whole load of kit from the extremely helpful Christina, including a fantastic road bike, Duncan and Alex talked me through the transition phases which are a vital aspect of the sport. Setting up your bike, running shoes and clothes in the correct order obviously becomes ritual and more important the more serious you become but I was stunned at the meticulousness of the details. My main concern was how fast I was going to be able to peel off a wetsuit coming out of the water and not forgetting to take off my swimming cap before putting the bike helmet on.
“And that is what I admire about triathlon; giving up is not an option.” Initial briefs taken care of, it was time to hit the water. Now there was no way I was in any kind of shape to take on a ‘sprint’ triathlon distance, which consists of a 750m swim, 20k bike section and 10k run, so I decided to go for a nice and easy 150m swim, 10k cycling leg and a leisurely 3k run. Easy peasy? No as it turns out, but huge fun. Having spluttered my way through the swim, stopping for some crucial tips from Duncan about limiting kicking and really optimizing my arm action, I felt uncannily fresh scampering up the beach to the bikes. A quick change (a wetsuit does come off a lot easier than it goes on) and we were into the saddle and on the road in no time. My enthusiasm got the better of me as I cruised alongside Duncan and Cristina on the flat circuit. About half-way round, Duncan demanded that we try a bit of sprinting “to get some lactic acid into those legs”. Feeling confident I stepped on the gas, enjoying the beautiful scenery as well as ‘keeping up’ with my fellow triathletes.That was to last all of about 200 metres as I quickly realized I had bitten off more than I could chew, slowing almost to a stop with Duncan peering anxiously over his shoulder at me. “Hitting the cycling leg too hard too early is a simple mistake lots of people make, even experienced triathletes,” Alex tells me. “You simply have to pace yourself because don’t forget there’s a run to come afterwards!” I was dreaming of
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Sports
Mark tour calendar: Tuesday 27 July 2010: Full-Moon Aquathlon - 750m swim + 6km run Participation limit - 250 Place: Moraitis Sports Centre, Schinias Registrations open 05th July till 20th July Packs pick-up 26th of July 7-8pm. Race starts 9pm, Cost 20 Euro.
a cold beer and a sit down as we chugged back into the transition area but it was a case of taking a few breaths and then heading out into the woods for the run. Rather than prolong my agony by trying to squeeze a few more kilometers out of me, Alex thankfully decided three would be enough to get a feel for trying to get my legs going on a run after 15-20 minutes on a bike. Collapsing in a heap back at the Moraitis water sports centre, it was a case of congratulations and sympathy all round from my training masters, and a nice cold beer was my reward for an afternoon’s toil in the sun. Despite the fact I hadn’t done anywhere near what even a sprint triathlon requires the tiredness transformed itself into an enormous sense of fulfillment at the adventure I had just been on. “There could be something in this,” I thought quietly to myself. It is a bandwagon many have started to jump in since triathlon was born in San Diego in 1979. The longest format is of course the aptly-named, aforementioned ‘Ironman’, the most famous of which is the World Championship held in Kona, Hawaii. The concept of multisport events is still in its infancy in Greece, a somewhat surprising fact since the climate and conditions are almost identical to the sport’s place of birth. And while most people would think twice, or perhaps thrice, at the thought of taking on the challenge of a triathlon, more and more Greeks are getting hooked. The success of the Schiniathlon, of which the autumn Triathlon Sprint edition takes place on September 18, has been the spark to start growing interest in the sport in Greece. And that success is largely down to the energy and effort of Marie Leautey, who founded and organised the first event in May 2007. “Triathlon began as a crazy idea that was an adventure for the participants; there are stories of people doing the first Hawaii Ironman in denim shorts because they thought the pockets would be useful,” explains Duncan. “I think it’s the sense of adventure and the sense of achievement that people find is the most rewarding aspect of the sport. If you do fall in love with triathlon, you’ll probably have a change in lifestyle for the better. You’ll exercise more and become more conscientious of your eating habits, which has huge health benefits. One last benefit is that it’s a very inclusive sport and triathletes are very supportive of beginners – it’s a great way to make new friends.” Sounds great, but what about the drawbacks? They are few and easily overcome, according to Duncan. “Probably the biggest drawback of the sport is the initial start-up cost of all the equipment,” he says. “It is easy to feel daunted by all the products on offer as the sport has grown. However, if you already have a bicycle, you’ll most likely have a pair of running shoes, then all you’ll need are a pair of swimming goggles and you are ready to begin!” i Interested in Triathlon? Visit www.trigreece.gr and www.schiniathlon.gr
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Style with chutzpah Stelios Koudounaris seeks inspiration from the urban landscape to create a tongue-in-cheek collection with sharp lines and fluid ruffles
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aving recently presented his sixth personal collection for fall/winter 2010, Stelios Koudounaris portrays elegance with a rock ‘n’ roll twist. His minimalist approach relies on a mix of razor-cut lines and futuristic designs based on a solid background of experience and in-depth studies on fashion design and garment manufacture. How do you characterize your new collection? My Autumn/Winter 2010 collection is a tribute to elegance by using subjective oppositions in an urban, modest but simultaneously provocative way. A new style of feminism is mostly served by masculine and powerful shapes that are evidently balanced between strict and fluid organic structures. Three dimensional elements, sharply cut details, classic deluxe materials like cashmere, pure wool and silk are combined with some of the highest technologically edited fabrics, always under a dark colour palette where black plays a catalytic role.
What type of woman do you have in mind when you design? I create for the emancipated, self-confident woman who lives, works, and moves in the city. A woman who knows her will and claims it, a woman who is open-minded and loves the avant-garde. What kind of music do you listen to while creating your clothes? I usually don’t listen to music when I design. My most brilliant ideas are born while walking in the streets, on the metro, basically everywhere in the urban landscape. Is following fashion trends a ‘must’? The last decade has been instrumental in the formation of a new, fresh and human-centered fashion that ignores ephemeral trends. We are living our most liberated and democratic fashion period ever. Style has become a totally personal matter.Therefore, I believe that style mirrors each ones personality. We wear what we are. How do you define elegance? Elegance is not a matter of ‘what’ but a matter of ‘how’. It’s not what you say but how you say it. It’s not that you walk, but how you walk. It’s not that you wear a beautiful garment but how you wear it. It’s not about style, it’s all about attitude. i
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Fashion
Debuting a fresh and dynamic Fall/Winter 2010 collection, Rita Attalla is a welcome new addition to the Greek fashion scene
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graduate of the prestigious Veloudakis fashion school (whose alumni include Sofia Kokosalaki, Angelos Bratis, Deux Hommes and Vassilis Zoulias amongst others), Athens-born, Libya-raised Rita Attalla embarked on an ambitious career in fashion after participating in a photo shoot for MI-RO as their muse. Not long after, Attalla’s collaboration with Fani Xenophontos as creative director of the ‘Fani Couture’ label, helped her gain recognition in Cyprus and led to the creation of her own line, RATT. What does fashion mean for you? Fashion is art, creation, expression. I just want to create wearable clothes for all types of women. What was the inspiration behind your Spring – Summer Collection 2010? The Spring Summer Collection of 2010 is a combination of power, simplicity and diversity of clothes. A smart and chic collection for creative people. Something like a ‘do it yourself ’ project. All the fabrics are jersey, bamboo, cotton and net. The colours that I suggest are mostly earth tones with bold colours, like yellow and electric blue. Your first show was at this year’s Athens Xclusive Designers Week, where designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Emmanuel Ungaro have presented their collections. Do you believe that Greek designers have the same opportunity to present their collection abroad? I don’t believe that there is any difference between the talent of Greek and foreign designers.The only difference is in the opportunities they are given. Can fashion co-exist with current financial woes? I believe that the crisis will just make people more selective. We will manage to buy less clothes, but at the same time be more qualitative. If we see the crisis through this perspective, I believe that we will appreciate fashion more. What offends your aesthetics? Exaggeration! The simpler, the better. i
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Sunlit serenity Toula Victor heads to the sandy shores of the Athenian Riviera for a day of relaxation at The Astir Palace Resort’s Arion Spa and emerges feeling ready for summer
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Wellness
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prawled across a picturesque peninsula in the southern suburb of Vouliagmeni,The Astir Palace Resort complex is a real retreat from the city. Driving along the coast and up to the resort’s entrance was like entering an exclusive paradise complete with pristine beaches, fine dining options, luxury accommodations, and of course spa relaxation. As I stepped into the minimalist lobby of the Arion hotel and headed towards the descending marble staircase en route to the spa, the scent of essential oils grew stronger; I was in relaxation mode even before I step foot into the spa. With classic décor in shades of apple green and a view of the Saronic Gulf through each and every window, the Arion spa boasts an indoor hydrotherapy pool with submerged lounge bed, and a relaxation room with access to a deck that overlooks a small cove dotted with beach umbrellas below. Facilities include a jacuzzi, sauna and steam room, and complimentary herbal teas are readily available for constant hydration. Natural light beams through the numerous windows that line treatment rooms and frame a view of the sea. Each room feels like a beach bun-
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galow. The faint sound of soothing music and the sound of the waves leave you no choice but to completely switch off and let the treatment take its course. I began with a Valmont facial, a pleasant and refreshing experience, but not for those in need of a deep cleaning. Based on the refreshing line of Valmont skin products, the experience was mild and relaxing, and accomplished what it set out to do - moisturize, purify, regenerate, and firm the skin. An excellent Balinese massage followed, using Cinq Monde’s ‘Baume Fondant aux Noix Tropicales,’ a blend of tropical nuts, coconut, tmanu and kemiri oils with the delicate fragrance of Gaiac wood. Using a combination of gentle movements based on traditional rituals, the treatment ended with a brilliant head massage and the ring of a bell to signify that my time was up. I left the spa feeling rejuvenated, re-energized and ready to take on the summer. i
Can’t make space in your schedule for a spa treatment? Set the scene in the comfort of your own home with some candles or a spritz of essential oil, then renew and rejuvenate with the following Cinq Mondes products: Eau Égyptienne 54 € Baume fondant aux noix tropicales 60 € For product information and availability contact: Orloff Ltd at 210.522.6215
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Summer in a bottle Eleni Kefalopoulou raises a glass to Greece’s indigenous whites
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he glorious Greek summer is here! A beautiful orange sun warming my back in Byzantine Monemvasia, a walk through Lefkes in Paros, the dry salty wind mixing with the aroma of indigenous flowers, a plunge into the tropical waters of Halkidiki, a coffee in the shade of Mount Olympus, a syrtaki dance in Crete and the unique sunset at Oia in Santorini. The only thing missing is a cool glass of refreshing Greek wine, full of aromas from the earth, the sun and the sea, knowing that nothing else can quench my wanderer’s thirst, nor quite match the grilled seafood I’m about to devour. The 300 plus varieties of indigenous grapes make wines that are delicious and perfectly appropriate with a wide array of foods. In spite of the heat and the sea, and in some cases, as a direct result of both, Greece has been producing incredibly well-balanced, clean, brilliant wines. I find it particularly difficult to name only a few of my favourites, so I thought I would begin my list by order of geography, beginning from Northern Greece and making my way south.
NORTHERN GREECE: In the last 10 years, Northern Greece has developed a reputation for rich aromatic white wines. Starting from the Pangeo mountain region near Kavala, Ktima Vivlia Hora produces Ovilos, a blend of Assyrtiko and Semillon matured in oak barrels with hints of mango, apricot vanilla and honey. It is an absolute must this summer, as
54 insider athens | July - August 2010
is Magiko Vouno from Nico Lazaridis. From the same region, Roditis from the Simeonidis winery is a fresh choice with lemon and citrus aromas and a floral taste, while Idisma drios from Techni Oenou Estate is an aromatic green-yellow Chardonnay with a rich chestnut aftertaste. Heading towards central Macedonia, the Gerovassiliou winery has won several prizes in local and international competitions for its wines and produces the Assyrtiko and Malagouzia varieties, both with impressive aromas and a lemony aftertaste. In nearby Halkidiki, Malagouzia of Porto Carras Estate reveals the unique floral aromas of the variety. In the Amynteon region, Alpha Estate produces one of the best Greek Sauvignon Blancs with a well-balanced fruity flavour and a long-lasting aftertaste. On the slopes of Mount Olympus, Dimitris Katsaros bottles an excellent golden-coloured Chardonnay, bursting with the sweet aroma of fruits, nuts and vanilla.
CENTRAL GREECE: In Thessaly, organically grown grapes of the Karipidis family produce a rich and crispy Sauvignon Blanc which is allowed to mature in oak barrels for seven months before it reveals its complex combination of citrus fruits. Epirus is the land of Zitsa, where the famous white variety Debina is cultivated. Poeme from Glinavos winery is a natural sparkling semi-dry wine. Crystal clear in colour, the elegant bubbles and lemon tang zest create a unique combination and a great accompaniment to local Greek cuisine. Uncork a bottle of Eva, a delicate fruity sparkling wine by Domaine Efharis and take in the unspoilt beauty of Central Greece.
THE PELOPONNESE: One third of all Greek vineyards are in the Peloponnese, famous for its history, archaeological sites and quality wines. Mantinia, at an altitude of 1.900 to 2.500 feet produces the Moschofilero variety, an amazingly versatile, food-friendly wine. A glass of well-chilled Amalia Brut by
Grape ideas
Tselepos Estate is just the ticket. Following classical champagne production methods, Amalia Brut boasts long lasting bubbles, rose and honey aromas with a hint of yeast. In ancient Nemea, the Palivos Estate makes Petrines Plagies, a rich wine with hints of watermelon and peach, particularly suited for summertime drinking. In the south, near the Byzantine castle of Malvasia lies the long established Monemvasia winery. Owner G. Tsibidis is dedicated to cultivating local varieties of the region like Kidonitsa, Asprouda and Malvasia, varieties that trace their roots back to the 12th century! From nearly extinct, to a darling of sommeliers worldwide, Malvasia is a floral, aromatic yet structured variety and is considered by many as Greece’s most dynamic entry into the international marketplace. Sit at one of the terraces of the old castle, uncork a bottle of Monemvasios and let this golden libation take you on a journey through the ages.
THE ISLANDS: Cephalonia: Off to the west, the Robola variety is the pride of Cephalonia. The Robola of Gentilini winery is a noble, floral and balanced wine that brings the Ionian breeze right into your glass. Limnos: Limnos produces excellent aromatic wines from the Moschato Alexandria variety. Try Limnos of the Limnos Union for a rosy hint.
Paros: From Paros, try the Monemvasia-Assyrtiko by Moraitis Estate, a surprising blend of the two varieties. Santorini:The volcanic island of Santorini has a unique, centuries-old history of vinification.The sun, the wind and the lava work magically together and the local variety of Assyrtiko produces strong, crispy white wines. I recommend the Santorini by Sigalas and Thalassitis by Gaia wines, both100% Assyrtiko wines and Santorini by Gavalas from Assyrtiko and Aidani. Crete: Crete, the cradle of Minoan civilization, is home to a wine press dating back to 2000 BC.Vilana, the main variety, produces fruity white wines and also Thrapsathiri, Vidiano and Malvasia contribute to their floral palate. Paterianakis Estate produces Melissokipos, a fresh fruity summer wine, from an organically grown vineyard that is the ideal companion for seafood and grilled vegetables. Boutari’s Fantaxometocho (named after a local Cretan legend about a haunted cottage) is a robust white while its Kritikos wine is full-bodied yet frothy – a fail-safe bet for all occasions. So wherever you are headed this summer, make sure you have a glass of traditional vintage to escort you through your holidays.
Stin ygeia sas!!!
i
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Gastronomy
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n a setting that is remarkably old Kifissia and most definitely pre-Karim Rashid, Omikron is a stately two-storey restaurant that took its owners, the Kastellorizo Group and chef Dina Nikolaou, fifteen patient years of sorting through paperwork to finally open.
that comes through in Omikron’s cuisine. So while the meal remains essentially Greek, the approach is French and the influences range from Morocco to Japan, mirroring Dina’s cosmopolitan background. A quick trip to the kitchen to meet the chef and I am overtaken by the overwhelming
An all-encompassing circle Elodie Dufour savours a meal at Omikron in Kifissia, the newest addition to the Kastellorizo Group with chef Dina Nikolaou’s distinctive signature
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The long and trying wait seems to have paid off because the location is quite unlike any other in Athens.With a spacious garden that can comfortably accommodate up to 80 and with tables for as many indoors, it is a large and roomy restaurant by Greek standards. The decor relies on earthy tones and subtle Asian touches, yet retains the elegance of a contemporary European townhouse. When the food arrives, both the portions and the presentation seem more in line with small French servings than hearty Greek helpings. For starters, the menu offers Omikron ‘earth’ and Omikron ‘sea’ options. I settled for the earthy version (a platter of mezedes including chicken crepinettes with ras al hanout and mushrooms stuffed with cheese and bacon) while my partner opted for the seafood platter with shrimps in ouzo and chef Dina’s sushi twist - lavraki rolled in vine leaves. Like the other dishes that followed, it is the playfulness and experimentation with local ingredients and far-flung flavours
aroma of Greek herbs - thyme, sage and rosemary. I ask Dina Nikolaou of her twin careers as chef and cookbook author and she shrugs modestly, “I grew up in a household where every meal was important. My mother’s extraordinary talent and intuition for mixing herbs with seasonal vegetables was what drove me to train as a chef - first at the Cordon Bleu, then at the Ritz Escoffier, at Lenôtre and at chef Alain Ducasse’s school of gastronomy.” It was her passion for Greek cuisine and filoxenia that prompted her to set up Evi Evane, her Greek restaurant in St. Germain des Près, in Paris, with her sister Maria. She now spends time between Paris and Athens and juggles TV shows, magazine columns, cookbook signings and her two restaurants with the practised ease of a globetrotting professional. i Omikron, Real Cuisine, Drossou 1 & Aiglis, Kifissia. Tel: 210 62 02 475-6
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Giving H4F7
Pillars of strength Although times have changed since the Penelopean Foundation was established in 1957, it continues to provide for underprivileged children with the guidance of a determined group of women
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n the early fifties, as Greece emerged from two devastating wars, the Greek diaspora made a collective effort to aid their homeland. It was at this time that Helen Tranta met the Grand President of the Daughters of Penelope, a philanthropic women’s organization affiliated with the American Hellenic Educational Progressice Association (AHEPA). As a result, the first overseas chapter of the “Daughters,” known as the Karyatides, was established in Athens. The newly formed chapter searched for ways to best serve Greece and ultimately established the Penelopean Foundation in 1957. Housed in a beautiful building in Nea Ionia built with funds raised by the Karyatides and their counterparts in the United States, the Penelopean Foundation became a refuge for young girls over the age of twelve who were condemned for minor offences and enclosed at Averof prison in the same cells as long-term prisoners. For several years, the foundation functioned with the goal of sheltering, protecting and educating girls in “moral danger.” They were taught various domestic skills and even participated in the foundation’s chorus and theatrical productions. Circumstances and social needs changed
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in 1975, and the Penelopean Foundation was converted into a daycare centre for children of working or incapacitated mothers of low or no income. More than three thousand children have since taken their first steps, learned their first words and drawn their first pictures, under the supervision of the Karyatides, who have administered the daycare centre supervised its good functioning and supported it financially. The Penelopean Foundation’s fifteen member staff continues to care for over 100 children each year between the ages of three months and 5 ½years. As the foundation matures, operating expenses increase, facilities require maintenance and repairs, furniture and playground equipment need replacement, and new problems arise daily. Whatever the obstacles, the Karyatides carry on, as does founding member Helen Tranta who as recently as last month met with the current head of the Daughters of Penelope in hopes of gaining the support required to continue the enduring efforts that have made the Penelopean Foundation what it is today. i For more information on how you can help, call 210.279.8253 or email penelopeanfoundation@yahoo.com
news Insider Art Space will resume as of September 25with photography displays. June 6 to September 5: Photography
Check the September issue of Insider for opening details.
Restaurant reviews Send in your reviews of new restaurants in Greece and we’d be delighted to feature them and add them to our listings. Send your reviews with a photograph of the restaurant to: toula@insider-magazine.gr
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2010
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Insider guide
refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details
restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki
ARGENTINEAN ORO TORO Vouliagmeni
BAR - RESTAURANTS BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq CENTRAL Kolonaki ENTEKA Glyfada KITCHEN BAR Faliro FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni NIXON Kerameikos SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki
FISH RESTAURANTS 7 THALASSES Kolonaki CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus FISH BAR Glyfada ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus THALATTA Gazi TO VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus
FISH TAVERNAS DOURAMBEIS Piraeus KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus
FRENCH L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro PIL POUL JEROME SERRES Thissio TARTARE Glyfada VARDIS Kifissia
GOURMET ALATSI Hilton KUZINA Thissio TO ERGASTIRIO TOU BAXEVANI Syntagma PIG PONG Glyfada
GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri EDODI Acropolis ELAEA BISTROT Acropolis FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia IRIDANUS Kerameikos KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia LIANA’S KITCHEN Glyfada MANI MANI Acropolis MARE MARINA Faliro PLATANOS Plaka PROSOPA Gazi RIFIFI Exarhia TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka
INDIAN ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Maroussi
ITALIAN AGLIO OLIO ET PEPERONICINO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri DA LUCIANO Vouliagmeni DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SALOTTO Glyfada IL SEGRETO Voula MEZZA LUNA Vouliagmeni MULTI 22 Syntagma PIZZA POMMODORO Kolonaki SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VINCENZO Glyfada
JAPANESE COO Kolonaki DOSIRAK syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia
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KOSHER KOL TUV Monastiraki
LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia
MEDITERRANEAN AIOLI RESTAURANT Glyfada BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki CAFE TABAC Vouliagmeni DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki FATSIO Pangrati GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni GB CORNER Syntagma GRILL ROOM Vouliagmeni IDEAL RESTAURANTOmonia IRIDANUS Kerameikos KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati MEIDANIS Monastiraki OCHRE et BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki RATKA Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki TO POLITICO Glyfada ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus
ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka GALAXY BAR Hilton IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq
SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KILIZA Glyfada NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki THANASSIS Monastiraki
SPANISH MI SUENO Kolonaki PUERTA DE ESPANA Pangrati
TAVERNAS AMMOS Piraeus DIPORTO Psyrri FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni MAMACAS Gazi MARGARO Piraeus SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton ZAHOS Vouliagmeni
THAI ROYAL THAI Kifissia
WINE BARS MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi LA TIENDA Glyfada
CELLIER LE BISTROT Syntagma OINOPATHIA Maroussi
Westin Kids Club
MEZEDES AND OUZO ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka SOLON Piraeus
PUB RESTAURANTS BAYERN BIERHAUS MICROBREWERY Glyfada BEER ACADEMY glyfada BIER HAUS Vouliagmeni MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada
Register Now!
210.890.2000
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Insider guide SHOP Children Damigos Dimitrakopoulou 40 Tel: 210.922.0317 Toyshop with a wonderful selection, including wooden designs
Gifts
Greece is for Lovers Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller
www.elaea.gr Greek chic coffee and tempting snacks beside the Acropolis Museum Gelato-Café Makriyanni 19-21 Tel: 210.923.8124 Homemade ice cream and waffles Mani Mani Falirou 10 Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches Takis' Bakery Misaralioutou 14 Tel: 210.923.0052 Locals' favourite; koulouria (sesame rings) & white chocolate biscuits
Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13 Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci Asimenia Bakery Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves Edodi Veikou 80 Tel: 210.921.3013 Fresh ingredients presented at your table, then cooked to perfection
Exarhia
EAT SHOP Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41 Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services Art Rat Records Zoodohou Pigis 48 Tel: 210.384.8001 Various vinyls
Medusa Tattoo Kallidromiou 85, Tel: 210.825.4593 Athens’ finest since 1995
Elaea Bistrot Makriyanni 19-21 Tel: 210.921.2280
Takis' Bakery
Aglio Olio & Peperonicino
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Vinyl Microstore Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more Yesterday's Bread Kallidromiou 87-89 Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed
EAT Fasoli Emanouil Benaki 45 Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment Kavouras Themistokleous 64 Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music Rififi Emanouil Benaki 69A & Valtetsiou Tel: 210.330.0237 Ideal for a quiet, affordable Aegean-style dinner Skoufias Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere Yantes Valteziou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with almost exclusively organic ingredients
Elaea Bistrot
central Athens DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space Ginger Ale Themistokleous 74 Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere Vox Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink
Gazi
Acropolis
Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!
EAT Butcher’s Shop Persefonis 19 Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes
Mamacas Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare Kitrino Podilato Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830 Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere Prosopa Meg.Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.
Greece is for Lovers
central Athens
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
Almaz Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world Barouge Andronikou 4, Tel: 210.342.4994 A staple of Athenian nightlife Dirty Ginger Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails Grande Dame Persefonis 23 Tel: 210.341.6412 Chic bar serving elaborate champagne cocktails Nipiagogeio Elasidon & Kleanthous 8 Tel: 210.345.8534 For late-night dancing to funky electronic music Villa Mercedes Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing
Athinon Arena Pireos 166, Tel: 210.347.1111 The latest in live Greek music acts
Hiltonia Health
EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13 Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties
Byzantine Restaurant Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist Milos Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours Vlassis Neandrou 15 Tel: 210.646.3060/210.725.6335 Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food
DRINK Galaxy Bar Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere
Frattina Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids
& Wellness Club Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools, pilates studio, cardio classes and weighttraining
Kerameikos
Bars, Clubs & Lounges
CHILL
EAT
Kolonaki
DRINK
Live Greek Music
Hilton
Thalatta Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations
SHOP
Jack in the Box Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more Marie Chantal Boutique Spefsippou 11 Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses
Iridanus Plataion 15 Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings Nixon Agisilaou 61B Tel: 210.346.2077 Burgers, a private cinema & an artsy crowd. Open for brunch on Sundays at noon
To Varoulko Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin starwinning chef Lefteris Lazarou
Mouyer Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles
Fashion Atelier Loukia Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer Bespoke Athens Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518 Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors
Antiques Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world
Beauty & Cosmetics
Apivita Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage
Children
Road of Tea
Bambineria Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots
Hiltonia
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Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill! Carouzos Kanari 12 , Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other topflight brands Coach Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style Deux Hommes Kanari 18, , Tel: 210.361.4155 www.deuxhommes.gr Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns Diesel Skoufa 3, Tel: 210.362.2748 A treasure trove of denim, and all the hip accoutrements to go with it Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20 Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion DKNY Solonos 8 Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear Elina Lebessi Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world
central Athens
Ermenegildo Zegna Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits
Lacoste Solonos 5 Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear
Paul & Shark Anagnostopoulou 6 Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles
Free Shop Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger
Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house
Preview Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes
Giorgio Armani Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars Hugo Boss Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe Incrocio Kanari 8 Tel: 210.362.7768 Menswear from Armani, Boss and Allen Edmonds brogues Kalogirou Patriarchou Ioakim 4 Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei Kathy Heyndels Patriarchou Ioakeim 21 Tel: 210.729.9966 Greek label selling barely-there gowns and basics with a twist La Perla Spefsippou 14 Tel: 210.729.9720 Lingerie to flaunt
Papadakis
64 insider athens | July - August 2010
Bespoke Athens
Linea Piu Sekeri 6 Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses Luisa Skoufa 15 Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3 Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero Nike Tsakalof 34 Tel: 210.363.6188 Trainers, tracksuits and other swooshmarked sports paraphernalia Observatory Attitudes Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 www.attitudes.gr Seven storeys of fashion
Puma Concept Kanari 17 Tel: 210.361.0516 International sportswear for all ages Rere Papa Skoufa 62 Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports Thalassa Collection Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses Vlassis Holevas Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167 Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist
Flowers Fleria Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697
Bespoke Athens
central Athens
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Food & Wine Cava Anthidis Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers Kylix Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels Wine Garage Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service
Gadgets Octopus Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour
Gifts Benaki Museum Gift Shop Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045 Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits
Home Christofle Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33 Tel: 210.723.7656 A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories
Fanourakis Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762 Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings Folli Follie Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux Liana Vourakis Pindarou 42 Tel: 210.361.7705 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here Lylian Syrigou Anagnostopoulou 12 Tel: 210.361.3350 www.liliansyrigou.gr Handcrafted bijoux and one-off designer pieces Magia Haritos 18, Tel: 210.724.0697 Ileana Makri's silver jewellery amid eclectic pieces from New York Oxette Skoufa 37 Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery
EAT Bakeries & Patisseries Despina Patriarchou Ioakim 56 Tel: 210.729.5582 Reputed patisserie best known for its millefeuille
Coo Dinokratous 1 Tel: 210.725.4008 A Mykonos favourite now in Athens Dakos Tsakalof 6 Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties
Cake Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more
Filipou Xenokratous 19 Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes
Fresh Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes
Frame St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous , Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens
Restaurants
Freud Oriental Xenokratous 21 Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting
7 Thalasses Omirou 11, Tel: 210.362.4825 Fresh fish with refined service
Inbi Iraklitou 21 Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion
Al Milanese Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning Altro Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food
Jackson Hall Milioni 4 Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings
Ozzi Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery
Boschetto Evangelismos Park Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting
Kalamaki Kolonaki Ploutarhou 32 Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy
Van Cleef & Arpels Pindarou 42, Tel: 210.331.1107 The jeweller of the international jetset
Cafe Boheme Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails
Kiku Dimokritou 12 Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi
Jewellery Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone
Om Indian Beauty Lounge Lykavittou 11, Kolonaki 210 362 5125
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Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!
Mi Sueno Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.6271 Tapas & other Spanish specialties Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view Ouzadiko Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo Papadakis Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens Pizza Pommodoro Alopekis 9, Tel: 210.729.6500 Great Italian specialties Prytaneion Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria Scala Vinoteca Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining
Square Sushi Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites
Tea
EAT
To Tsai Soutsou & Likavitou Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world
Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere
CHILL
Ta Kioupia Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek classics with refined touches
OM Indian Beauty Lounge Lykavittou 11 Tel: 210.382.5125 Incredible massages and exotic treatments
TGI Friday’s Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq. Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce!
La Prairie Day Spa Kanari 24, Tel: 210.360.1550 High-tech beauty treatments in a clinical setting
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Central Kolonaki Square Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a l aid-back atmosphere Ten Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town W Kanari 24 Tel: 697.270.0712 Private seating areas, speciality cocktails & exclusives events
DRINK Balthazar Tsoha 27 Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd Baraonda Tsoha 43 Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats
Briki Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout Flower Tel: 210.643.2111 Fun, funky and affordable watering hole
Cafés Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout
To Tsai
Peros Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot
66 insider athens | July - August 2010
Varvakios Agora
St’Astra Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience
Monastiraki
Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine
Showroom Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours
Mavili Sq
L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine
central Athens
SHOP Antiques Darousos Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market
Books FNAC Aiolou & Mitropoleos Tel: 210.373.1100 International book & multimedia superstore
Food & Wine
Arapian Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats Bahar Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven Miran Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats
central Athens
Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare Brachera Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory Café Avyssinias Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends Doris Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices Kol Tuv Normanou 4, Tel: 210.524.4049 The only kosher restaurant in Athens serving traditional shabat meals Meïdanis Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073 A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes Savvas Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali
To Kouti Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora
DRINK Orea Ellas Pandrosou 36, Tel: 210.321.3842 An eclectic cafe & bookshop
SHOP Department Stores Hondos Center Omonia Square Tel: 210.528.2800 Cosmetics, perfumes, luggage, clothing, & much, much more
EAT Ideal Restaurant Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor Bacaro Sophokleous 1 & Aristidou Tel: 210.321.1882, Lavish Italian and contemporary dishes Athinaikon Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri
Sigalas-Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes
Food & wine
Beauty & Cosmetics
Mesogaia Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods
Korres Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs
Cucina Povera Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily
Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture
2 Mazi Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly
Fatsio Efroniou 5 Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip
Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere
Karavitis Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks
Electra Nikodimou 18-20 Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine
Magemenos Avlos Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings
Platanos Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens
Puerte de Espana Antinoros 42, Tel: 210.725.8666 Spanish cuisine & live music
Scholarheio Tripodon 14 Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices
Spondi Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens
Ydria Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine
Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9 Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town
Korres
Gifts
EAT
EAT
Plaka Bahar
SHOP
SHOP Antique stores Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture
Psyrri
EAT
Thanassis Mitropoleos 69, Tel : 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise
Omonia
Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis Normanou 7, Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books
Pangrati
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
SHOP Fashion Christoforos Kotentos Sachtouri 3 Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs
Home Notoshome Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore
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Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill! EAT
Books
Gifts
Cantuccio Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment
Eleftheroudakis Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece
Argalios Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940
Kauffman Stadiou 28, Tel: 210.322.2160 Mostly French books and small selection of English fiction
Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils
Diporto Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava Kouzina Cine-Psirri Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music Nara Nara Karaiskaki 26, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing Ochre & Brown Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine
Attica Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods Fokas Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children Stock House & Travel Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories
Fashion - Men’s
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Soul Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves
Syntagma
Department Stores
SHOP Accessories Bag Stories Panepistimiou 41 Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey
Antiques
Antiqua Vassilis Amalias 2-4 Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens
Beauty & Cosmetics MAC Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour
Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933
Flowers Dromoloulouda Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece
Food & Wine Aristokratikon Karageorgi Servas 9 Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop
Jewellery Apriati Pentelis 9, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings
Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories
Home Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house
Jewellery Apriati Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories
central Athens Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces Marathianakis Voukourestiou 21 Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso
Shoes Spiliopoulos Ermou 63 Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price! Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s
EAT
Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison
Cellier Le Bistrot Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines
Folli Follie Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories
Dosirak Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Corean cuisine in the heart of Athens
Gofas Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces
To Ergastirio to Baxevani Nikis 58 & Kydathynaion Tel: 210.322.2839 Traditional Greek cuisine combined with modern elements
Gadgets
Far East Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings
Public Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books
Furin Kazan Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike
68 insider athens | July - August 2010
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
CHILL
Noodle Bar Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix Parliament Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents Paul Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Boutique Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot
The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping
EAT Kirki Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break Kuzina Adrianou 9 Tel: 210.324.0133 Contemporary Greek cuisine
The New Acropolis Museum An inside view of the Parthenon and its surroundings The National Archaeological Museum Archaeological finds from all over Greece The Benaki Museum A chronological view of Greece’s history The Museum of Cycladic Art Works characteristic of the Aegean and Cyprus Astir Beach Vouliagmeni Dip into the cool glamour of the Athens Riviera Grand Beach Lagonissi Spend a fun-filled day at the beach with family and friends Balux An all day experience complete with a beach house open to all
Pil Poul Jerome Serres Apostolou Pavlou 51 & Pavlopoulou Tel: 210.342.3665 Contemporary French cuisine with a Meditarranean twist
Pasaji Light dishes served in a contemporary atmosphere on Voukourestiou Psaras The oldest restaurant in Plaka serving fresh fish and traditional Greek dishes Prytaneion Charming restaurant-café on a charming pedestrian street in Kolonaki Cellier Le Bistrot Business or leisure lunch accompanied by a glass of fine wine on Panepistimiou Pagotomania Refreshing scoops of ice-cream in a variety of flavours in Psyrri
Drink
Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment
Holmes Place Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400 Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes
Thissio
Multi 22 Ermou 116 & Leokoriou Tel: 210.331.6766 Italian fare served in a neoclassical house
GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments by E’SPA,Valmont & Algoane
The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:
See
Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34 Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop
athens in 24hrs
Do
T Palace King George Palace Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.322.2210 Sophisticated atmosphere for mingling & people-watching
Eat
GB Corner Hotel Grand Bretagne Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine
central Athens
Zonar’s A landmark Athenian café serving specialty coffees and delectable desserts Kolonaki Square Lined by cafes ideal for people watching Balthazar A chic garden atmosphere for the fashionable and fabulous in Ambelokipi Bobayo Cocktails served under the Athenian stars in the centre of the city Akrotiri Boutique All night dancing to the wee hours by the coast
Paul
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Insider guide Ammos Ak. Koumoundourou 44 Tel: 210.422.4633 Casual waterfront dining Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood
Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna Jimmy and The Fish Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends Margaro Hadjikyriakou 126, Tel: 210.451.4226 Fish taverna with a simple menu Plous Podilatou Ak. Koumoundourou 42 Tel: 210.413.7910 Sumptuous seafood & mouthwatering deserts on the waterfront Solon Themimstokleous 284 Tel: 210.451.2340 Enjoy traditional Greek mezedes Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour
Istioploikos Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house
EAT Eric Kayser “Flisvos” Marina Tel: 210.987.1446 A bread-lover’s paradise
Il Tinello Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking Iskandar Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian flavours in a warm and luxurious environment Kitchen Bar Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea Le Petit Sommelier Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list Mare Marina “Flisvos” marina, Tel: 210.982.2220 Greek & Mediterranean creations served with a waterfront view www.maremarina.gr
Vassilenas Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere
DRINK
Zefyros Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay
Big Apple South Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere
Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean
DRINK
Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Fascinating cocktails while listening to the rhythm of lounge, Latin & dance music
Iguana Ak. Dilaveri 15, Tel: 210.407.8861 Playing disco & techno tracks until 6am
Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from
70 insider athens | July - August 2010
Glyfada
EAT
Faliro
Piraeus
Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!
Southern Athens
SHOP Beauty & Cosmetics Body 'N' Soul Phivis 17, Tel: 210.677.4554 The crème de la crème of luxury cosmetics
Books
Eleftheroudakis Lazaraki 27, Tel: 210.325.8440 Book superstore with a large selection of English titles Fnac Lazaraki & Kar. Servias 4, Tel: 210. 898.4300
Fashion Enny di Monaco Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers Ensayar Donna Kyprou 55, Esperidon Square Tel: 210.894.3034 Top lines from leading designers with an English touch Kokkoris Optics Esperidon Square 3, Tel: 210.898.0850 Excellent selection of eyewear
Jewellery ZerTeo Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs
Food & Wine All about Whisky Vas. Georgiou B' 10 Tel: 210.968.1191, Specialty shop with a large selection of single malts, books, & anything to do with whisky Green Farm Dousmani 5, Tel: 210.898.5191 Organic products of all kinds Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen
Aioli Restaurant Artemidos 9, Tel: 210.894.0181 Mediterranean cuisine with an excellent “secret” seafood sauce Amigos Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine & live music on weekends Beer Academy N. Zerva 14, Tel: 210.898.0121 International cuisine in a cozy setting Beirut Saki Karayiorya 13, Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment Bereket Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor Dakos Zissimopoulou 26, Tel: 210.894.7040 Authentic Cretan dishes Enteka Kyprou 11, Tel: 210.898.2880 Mediterranean dishes & an extensive wine list Far East Lazaraki 61, Tel: 210.894.0500 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings Fishbar Zisimopoulou 2, Tel: 210.968.0100 Seafood appetizers & dishes in a fun environment Kiliza Konstantinopoleos 13 Tel: 210.894.4648 Delicious kebabs & decadent deserts La Casa Di Giorgino Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven La pêche Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.894.1620 Creative seafood dishes combining Greek & French techniques
EAT
La Tienda Vas. Georgiou B' 58 Asteras Glyfada Tel: 210.894.1620 Latin steak house & live music
Ache Kypriou 57, Tel: 210.894.2949 International cuisine & delectable deserts
Labi Maragou 18, Tel: 210.968.0205 Modern taverna serving traditional taverna food
Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine To Politico Zisimopoulou 7B, Tel: 210.894.0170 Flavours of Asia Minor Vincenzo Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Babae Posidonos 88, Tel: 210.894.1629 Beachfront dancing all night long Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden
Cafes Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur Cosi Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture Nest CafĂŠ Bar Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors Seiza Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design The House Project Posidonos 58A, Tel: 210.898.3577 A beach house turned lounge with all the amenities of a home.
EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78 Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste
Dvlcis in Fvndo Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian Genovese Vas. Pavlou 99, Tel: 210.895.8400 Italian eats al fresco Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint Il Segreto Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace
CHILL Vari Sports Club Vari-Koropiou & Kalamatos 1 Tel: 210.899.0048 www.varisportsclub.com
Vouliagmeni
Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, , Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens
Voula
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
EAT
Southern Athens
Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals
Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices
Maistrali Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely
Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth
Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair Mezza Luna Orpheos 2, Tel: 210.967.1046 Chic Italian restaurant Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood Oro Toro Varis-Koropiou 73, Tel: 210.899.4514 A taste of Argentinian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting
DRINK En Plo Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay Island 27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3809 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf Sofa Bar The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails
CHILL Arion Spa Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000 Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100
CafĂŠ Tabac Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food Da Luciano Posidonos 17 Tel: 210.896.2217 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza
Galazia Hytra The Westin, 40, Tel: 210.890.1709, Enjoy a romantic meal of creative Greek cuisine
Live Music
Grill Room Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1794 Mediterranean & seafood flavours on a breathtaking veranda, in the Astir complex
Thalassa People's Stage Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.2979 Live Greek acts in a club atmosphere attracting a young crowd
Ithaki Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service
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Insider guide SHOP Beauty & Cosmetics Nyhi-Nyhi Kifissias 230 Tel: 210.623.2824 Stop by for a quick mani-pedi
Fashion
21 Kifissia Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport parafernelia Gap Kifissias 328, , Tel: 210.623.1571 Casual American fashion Vassilis Zoulias Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past
Food & Wine Aristokratikon Argyropoulou 8, , Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies Il Salumaio di Montena Poleone Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Milan based company selling high quality produce Sorpresa Italiana Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more
Stefanidis Finest Foods Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen Varsos Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world
EAT Acqua Azzurra Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals Apla 135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes
Meat Me HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna Nargile Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambiance O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices Piazza Mela Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes Prytaneion Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare
Barceloneta Kifissias 267, Tel: 210.801.3448 Spanish cuisine in a fun atmosphere
Royal Thai Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting
Berdema Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor
Salumaio di Atene Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous deserts
Common Secret Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting
Semiramis Restaurant Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere
Dos Hermanos Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world Golden Phoenix Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters Ichthyes Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna
Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala
Northern Athens
Kastelorizo Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please
72 insider athens | July - August 2010
Shogun Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning Telemachos Barbeque Club Fragkopoulou 22 Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection Tike Harilaou Trikoupi 27 Tel: 210.808.4418, Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes Vardis Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece
DRINK Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails
Divine Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions Menta CafĂŠ Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe
Maroussi
Kifissia
Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!
SHOP Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food
EAT Aneton Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s El Taco Bueno Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting Jaipur Palace Ag. Konstantinou & Themidos Tel: 210.805.2762 Indian cuisine and fine wines Leptes Gefseis Fine French food at affordable prices Pindou 22, Pefki, Tel: 210.802.4817 Mauzac Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this cafĂŠ, bar, restaurant a must Oinopathia Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375 Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine Pausa Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting
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partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA
ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT HOTEL
DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS
METROPOLITAN
The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants. Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.Tel: 210.890.2000
314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115.Tel: 210.930.0000
Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25. Makrigianni. Tel: 210.928.0100
Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000
ATHENS LIFE GALLERY
GRANDE BRETAGNE
NJV athens plaza
ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS
543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93.Tel:210.920.6000
Where modern architecture finds its expression among Zen gardens and ethnic elements. 30 ultra-modern rooms and suites. Avenue 103 restaurant trendy Pisco Sour Bar. Two pools, full-service Ananea Spa. Thisseos 103, Ekali. Tel: 210.626.0400. www.bluegr.com Crowne plaza
Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400 NOVOTEL
Holiday Inn Attica Avenue
ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL
66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine. Kallirois 32 & Petmeza.Tel: 210.921.5353
Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50. Tel: 210.727.8000, www.cpathens.com
ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL
DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA
Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.Tel: 210.337.0000
This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq.Tel: 210.333.0000
Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100
ATHENS HILTON
New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-ofthe art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000, www.hiathens.com
The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700 www..novotel.com Royal Olympic
Holiday Suites
Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000, www.holiday-suites.com KEFALARI SUITES
Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities. Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210 9288400, www.royalolympic.com SEMIRAMIS
DIVANI CARAVEL
508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views.Vas. Sofias 46.Tel: 210.728.1000
situated close to major tourist attractions with , rooftop restaurant and swimming pool. Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000
74 insider athens | July - August 2010
Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3333
YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.Tel: 210.628.4400
SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT
TwentyOne
virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin's soothing aesthetic
Herodion
THE ROMANOS
Brand-new airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities.Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata.Tel: 210.354.4000
A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining. Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521. www.twentyone.gr
ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL
A CATEGORY
Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.923.6832 The Romanos Hotel boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with private infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.
HOTEL ELECTRA
AVA HOTEL & SUITES
Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki.Tel: 210.729.0711 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL
Santorini
Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka. Tel: 210.325.9000, www.avahotel.gr
Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000 PERISCOPE HOTEL
BEST WESTERN ESPERIA PALACE HOTEL
In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI
Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia.Tel. 22860 81786 VEDEMA, SANTORINI
In the heart of the commercial and historic centre of Athens. The restaurant Athinaios, serves gastronomic delights in an elegant setting. Stadiou 22. Tel: 210.323.8001
Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.7200, www.periscope.gr Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori.Tel. 22860 81 796
Philippos
CORAL HOTEL
Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11,Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000. ww.themargi.gr THE WESTIN ATHENS
The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441 Fresh Hotel
Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni.Tel: 210.922.3611-4
COSTA NAVARINO THE WESTIN RESORT
Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.Tel: 210.890.2000
MYSTIQUE SANTORINI
Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki. Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous. Tel: 210.524.8511-6.
Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort's low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the
Politia
(next to Politia Tennis Club)
160 sq. m. modern residence with central heating, spacious entertaining areas with separate dining room and open kitchen, large verandas, 2 master bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 WC, studio space with WC, 2 generous parking spaces, sea view Tel: 6936538116
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AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086
COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964
COURIER SERVICES
ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000
TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel: 210.778.3698 www.executiveservices.gr
Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541 ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AZERBAiJAN Skoufa 10. Tel: 210.363.2721 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14. Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4. Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 26. Tel: 210.725.2574 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei. Tel: 210.685.5550
Embassies
Business services
useful information CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10. Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4. Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5. Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3. Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25. Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16. Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7. Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri. Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4161 Kazakhstan Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765
Anaktora, Athens centre,
‘Your ultimate source in premium auto care and small body repairs’.
Eng lish s pe
aking staff !
Headquarters:
L. Kifisias 338 & N. Karella 44 152 33 Halandri, Tel. 210.685.6808 www.microrepairs.gr
76 insider athens | July - August 2010
luxurious penthouse, the best guarded area in Athens, 280 sq.m. 1 master bedroom with en suite spacious bathroom, 3 bedrooms, 1 auxiliary bedroom, 3 bathrooms, modern kitchen with island, spacious living room with fireplace ideal for embassy or company with entertaining obligations, wide terraces, view of Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 6936538116.
20.000 lecteurs lisent Bonjour Athènes pour trouver le meilleur en Grèce en Français!
Abonnez-vous maintenant! (voir article et infos en page 67)
KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens. Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49. Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38. Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei. Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14. Tel: 210.729.4780 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7. Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi. Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23. Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6. Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23. Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Marathonodromon 71, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10. Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21. Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7. Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2. Tel: 210.723.0364-6
Emergencies
TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57. Tel: 210.677.5122 THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8. Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei. Tel: 210.680.0230 UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1. Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91. Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016. They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings. Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000
Weather Attica, Tel: 148 www.hnms.gr Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel) Tel: 210 72 89 640
ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174
SYLVAIN GATEAUD Osteopath (France, UK) MKDE- C0 ( France) HP (Germany). Energy management. Karaiskaki 42, Pallini. Tel: 210 60 33 622 M. 6937 20 44 72
public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1,Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus. Tel: 210.451.9411-9
PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING)
Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 Paediatric A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Hospitals Tel: 210.747.2777 EUROCLINIC PAEDON Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia. Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 Tel: 210.612.5001-2 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA heart & vascular centrE HOSPITAL E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Tel: 210.746.7000 Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU Tel:210.897.6276. www.heartline.gr HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535
Private Hospitals Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri. Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.). Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El.Venizelou 162, Kallithea. Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 www.ygeia.gr
Newspapers
The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini, with a weekly newspaper Athens Plus The local Athens News comes out Fridays.
Radio Antenna 97.2 FM news at 8.25am, Flash Radio 96.0 FM 8.55am, 3pm and 8pm daily. ERA public radio 91.6 FM for bulletins at 5am and 9am, full news coverage at 9.30pm. Athens International Radio 104.4 FM Offers news bulletins in 13 languages, as well as interviews, music and current affairs programmes.
sylvain.gateaud@hotmail.co.uk www.whyosteopathy.com
Money
Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202. www.eydap.gr
Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177 ww.kep.gov.gr
General and cranial osteopathy
LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS
Phone Post
Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210 523 9939 www.dei.gr
Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr , Tel: 210 99 89 000
IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El.Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi. Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000
English media
Road Assistance ELPA: 104
Social Security & Health insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr
Health
Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr
Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.
AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04
!
Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code. To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks
advertise in our listings,and reach thousands of customers
email us at ads@insider-magazine.gr
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Art galleries
Tel: 210.322.9705
A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Astra Karyatidon 8, Koukaki Tel: 210.922.0236 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200
Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki Tel: 210.721.9744 The Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio Tel: 210.331.7527 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma Tel: 210.361.2050 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 www. yakas.com Kalfayan gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery With a century of experience in art trade, the Kourd Gallery specialises in 19th and 20th century European Paintings, Icons, Contemporary Art, Antiquities and 18th century Antiques. Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573 ww.gallerykourd.gr Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati Tel: 210.729.7644 Zoumboulaki Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulaki Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 7, Syntagma Tel: 210.363.4454
Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.
Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for e1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street.
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Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum e3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. e2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220. Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos. Tel: 210.321.0185. Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens. Tel: 210.923.1502 www.spyrosvassiliou.org
Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000. www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311 www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027. Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. www. hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka. Tel: 210.323.4678. www.frissirasmuseum.com
Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4. Tel: 210.722.8321. www.cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio. Tel: 210-346.1981. www.herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni. Tel: 210.922.7260. www.lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. www.jewishmuseum.gr Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki. Tel: 210.346.3552. Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50. Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens. Tel: 210.363.5953. www.nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043 www.theacropolismuseum.gr
Just for kids
ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES
Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219
Museums
ORGANISED TOURS
Attractions & Sites
see & do
Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis 210.425.6999 www.allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka. Tel: 210.331.2995. Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.5870, www.gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.9031.
Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621 www.childrensartmuseum.gr U Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini 210.603.0093, www.summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/
getting around
Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171
24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE
WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around
LIMOUSINES
Public transport
AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120 Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (e1) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 6e.
EXPRESS BUS from/to airport To and from Syntagma Square (bus X95, 70 min. approx.), Ethniki Amyna metro station (bus X94, 50 min. approx.) and Piraeus (bus X96, 90 min. approx.). Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes. Fare is e3.20 and the ticket is valid for 24 hours on buses, trolleys and metro. For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro.gr. For info on trains see www. proastiakos.gr
HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002 www.ose.gr
ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (Egaleo-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm. The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr
tram Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr
TAXIS from the airport cost about e20 to Syntagma Square, e25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies. Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171
INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.
RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of e1 added to the meter.
Sea ports Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888
Sea ports & Ferries
Airport
Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr.
Car rental
Airlines
Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 Austrian Tel: 210.960.1244 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Gulf Air Tel: 210.322.0851 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 KLM Tel: 210.998.0333 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 SAS Tel: 210.353.0373 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2
Ferries Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:
Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700 www.superfast.com Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel:801 11 75 000
YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus. Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Alimou & Poseidonos, Alimos. Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212, 210.895.6733 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos. Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8
Gates B, G & D
Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G
Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130
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athens citysales mappoints Central Athens
See i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street
NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M. Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V. Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road AthensLamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E. Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street
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PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag. Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA : Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street
SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA : Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO : NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS : Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag.Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis : 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square
city map
Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications
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KA L E I DOS COP E
Bouzouki:
What other instrument, so synonymous with Greek music, best captures the Greek zest for life and that lingering feeling of kaimos than the three-stringed bouzouki.The tempo that builds in the bouzouki gives a real sense of the underlying raw emotion, of ‘rebetiko’s’ illegal past and its gentrification by the greats of modern Greek music,Vassilis Tsitsanis, Manos Hadzidakis and Mikis Theodorakis. Angelos Giotopoulos’ lens captures the making of the stringed instrument at a workshop tucked in a little alley just off Insider’s office.
82 insider athens | July - August 2010