INSIDER issue 90

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

December - January 2011 Year 8. Issue 90 €4.50

insider ISSN 1790-3114

ATHENS

The Festive issue

Art in Athens: Kounellis, Munch, GRtists / Interview with Anna Kafestsi of EMST Victoria Hislop on her love affair with Greece / In Angelo Riatsch’s atelier / Winter escapade at Semeli Resort / Gift Guide / Festive Fare / The Grande Dame of Festivity PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, AND2011 MORE insider athens |MAPS December - January 1

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Sudha Nair-Iliades

As Insider turns 90 with this issue, it is with mixed feelings that I look back on what has been a tough, interesting year for all of us.While the relentlessness of producing magazines month after month does take its toll, the enthusiasm and pride we take in creating each issue more than compensates for it.

2011 is when Insider turns 100 and that is a milestone to look forward to.

I keep taking inspiration from the city this magazine is dedicated to – Athens. In the past year the city has been bogged down by riots, strikes, garbage pile-ups, vandalism, economic ruin, civic apathy, neglect and whatever else you want to throw into the mix. And yet, the city has bounced back with an amazing turnaround in the municipal elections, voting for change and hope.

publisher’s note More Athenians have begun actively participating in local community initiatives to make their neighbourhoods cleaner and safer. More cultural centres (the Onassis Cultural Centre) and art galleries (around six in November alone) have opened in the past month making it virtually impossible to take in a Levy-Houellebecq debate or a Sonny Rollins concert without losing out on something else.

And to feed the Greek penchant for living it up especially when things get tough, more restaurants have sprouted in the city too. Here are individuals and institutions risking it all and investing in what they believe will be a brighter future. How can one refute that optimism but by joining in?

So spread the cheer and join in the festivities. Kales yiortes!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades Art Director Michel Devanakis Editor Toula Victor

Photos Costas Picadas, Christofer Doulgeris, Angelos Giotopoulos, Penelope Massouri, Aris Roupinas, Papadakis, Mike Sweet

Delivery Hellenic Foreign Press Distribution Agency Subscriptions * Athens Insider - 10 issues a year in Greece € 40, Abroad € 80

Contributors in this Issue Ranti Bambgala, Stephanie Bailey, Maya Gaki, Eleni Kefalopolou, Nick Malkoutzis, Renee Pappas, Mike Sweet, Toula Victor

* Bonjour Athènes - 5 issues a year in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40

Client Relations Patricia Graire, Anelia Fikiina

Founder Steve Pantazopoulos

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Art Editor Stephanie Bailey

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info@insider-magazine.gr www.insider-magazine.gr www.bonjour-athenes.com

Web Coordinator Ranti Bambgala

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Athens Insider is published monthly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by:

Sales Antonis Tsirikos

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Athens Insider: Monthly Publication ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 6548

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contributors Maya Gaki

A devotee of the good life and an avid traveller, Maya speaks four languages fluently. She studied political science and has been involved with the media since a very young age. She started off as a news anchor for ERT specialising in international news and then as a producer-presenter of radio broadcasts accredited to the Ministry of Culture and Tourism. Maya freelances for Greek and international media including Insider and Bonjour Athènes and wishes everyone a bright and cheerful holiday season.

A documentary producer for the BBC Television in the 1990s, Michael worked in broadcasting in South Asia before relocating to Australia in 2002, where he established his TV production business. A correspondent for the English language edition of Australia’s largest circulation Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos, Michael combines his writing with producing independent documentary films. Having lived in Athens since 2007, Mike returns to Australia in Deecember but will continue writing for Insider.

Ranti Bamgbala

Ranti Bamgbala was born in Nigeria and raised in the UK. She has an MA in Art, Design and Visual Communication.

Her passion is just to ‘create her ideas’ which include products, furniture, installations and events. Ranti also manages Insider’s website.

Deputy-editor of Kathimerini English Edition and Athens Plus, Nick moved to Greece from London in 2003 after spending part of his childhood in Athens. He has worked for the BBC and the Associated Press and jointly set up Archon Media.

Nick has a passion for sports and tries to satisfy this by playing 5-a-side football every week

Stephanie Bailey

Nick Malkoutzis

Stephanie is a freelance writer, artist and teacher. Born in Hong Kong, she studied Classical Civilization and English Literature before completing a foundation diploma in Art & Design in London. She has contributed to Adbusters, ArtPapers, Athens News and Odyssey, and is a music correspondent for Spinearth.tv

Award-winning graphic designer, fluent in English French and Greek, Michel moved to Athens in 1997 to create Studio ZIP, after a long and interesting career in France and Canada. His background in Marketing (Paris 1983), is a major asset in his creative approach. He provides his services both in Greece and abroad. Since May 2010 he has taken over as art director of Insider and Bonjour Athènes. Passionate about art, and painter in his ‘rare’ spare time, you can find out more about him on his website: www.studiozip.com

Toula Victor

Mike Sweet

Michel Devanakis

Born and raised in the San Francisco Bay Area, Toula studied Economics at the University of California and worked in the banking, real estate and relocation industries. She contributed regularly to Mobility magazine in the United States before moving to Athens in 2008 to pursue a Masters in Business Administration and live the Greek life.

Eleni Kefalopoulou born in Thessaloniki, studied drama and civil engineering.Working as an actress and translator for TV and cinema, she loves travelling, wine-tasting and discovering secrets of regional cuisines. She has followed many wine seminars in Greece and enjoys discovering the fruits of small wineries, both in Greece and further afield.

4 insider athens | December - January 2011

Eleni Kefalopoulou

contents Features

12 24 30

Departments

When private becomes public 10 Stephanie Bailey interviews Jannis Kounellis’ on the eve of his exhibition in Greece

Meeting of Minds 34 Ranti Bambgala on the Meet Market’s monthly date showcasing local talents and crafts

Arts and Events My Athens

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A collector’s journey 12 A tribute to the contemporary Greek artists from Nikos Vernicos’ private collection

It’s the season for giving 36 Toula Victor plays Santa and picks gifts for the holiday season

Society

22

Fast Lane

24

Agora

36

Wellness

48

Screaming for life 14 Anna Belinda Firos of the Herakleidon Museum on Edvard Munch’s works beyond the ‘garbed skull’ Politics of Art 16 Anna Kafetsi explores the role of politics in art as EMST turns ten Searching for Nomads 20 Mike Sweet reviews enigmatic travel writer Bruce Chatwin’s spiritual ties to Greece in Under the Sun View from the top 22 Nikolas Nikolaidis of the Royal Olympic Hotel picks his favourite spots in the city Living with the city 28 Nick Malkoutzis on the optimistic mood in the city following Mayor Kaminis’ election Victoria’s realm 30 Best-selling author Victoria Hislop on her love affair with Greece

Knocking on heaven’s door 40 Semeli Resort, around 450 kms from Athens, is a perfect getaway for the winter Chisels and paintbrushes 44 Angelo Riatsch invites Insider into her atelier Fashion with attitude 46 Elena Syraka’s creations blend modernity with mythology Festive Fare 50 Chefs Nikos Roussos and Georgianna Hiliadaki of Funky Gourmet restaurant suggest a festive recipe

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Restaurant reviews 54 Insider News

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Restaurant lndex 58 Area-wise listings 60 Kaleidoscope

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The Grand Dame of Festivity 52 A guide to knowing your bubbles Grilled Perfection 54 The Souvlaki Bar in Thissio serves gyros in style An ode to the sea Seafood at AiNikolas on Syngrou Avenue

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36 40 52 54 80 Cover by Michel Devanakis

insider athens | December - January

2011

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Arts & events

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december

Fizz Gallery

Museum of Islamic Art

Artemis Potamianou: Strangeland 1,2 A visual language that uses personal associations, collective consciousness, and the element of surprise are at the core of Potamianou’s exhibition. She invites the viewer to reconstruct a strange world, mobilizing associations and perceptions to create a ‘utopia’ where anything is possible and the rules of art are under negotiation.

AMRITA the water of life: Storytelling along the pathways of India with storyteller Sassa Voulgari For the second consecutive time, storyteller Sassa Voulgari, accompanied by musician Spyros Pan, will present a selection of stories from India for an adult audience. The stories unfold accompanied by the sounds of a hang, a rare musical instrument. Hand-made, it only has 8 notes, which echo in a way that creates an exceptional quality of sound different from all other musical instruments.

Duration: approximately 90 minutes.

www.fizzgallery.gr

www.benaki.gr

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december

St. George Lycabettus Hotel Rooms 2010 3 In cooperation with the Kappatos Gallery, The St. George Lycabettus organizes a contemporary art show on the entire 5th floor of the hotel, where 25 curators present 30 rooms transformed into works of art by promising young artists. Paintings, sculptures, photographs, architectural creations, performances, videos and installations will adorn each room.

www.sglycabettus.gr

until

31 december

Kalfayan Galleries Alexis Akrithakis: Bar An annual exhibition dedicated to the most important Greek representatives of Modernism exhibits Akrithakis’ remarkable installation titled “The Bar” which was first shown at the Bernier-Eliades in 1981. Until lately it was in an American collection and has only recently found its way back to Greece. Incorporating natural, everyday materials chosen for their evocative qualities, this landmark, life-size work reflects the fusion between art and life. The exhibition will also include works from his Berlin period that reveal the unique microcosm of archetypal symbols and codes that the artist created to express his personal experiences.

www.kalfayangalleries.com

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On the town For location details see listings p76

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0908 13 0915 15 until

december

january

until

january

december

january

january

Ekfrasi

Bernier Eliades

K-Art

Numismatic Museum

Yiannis Stefanakis: Painting the word 4 Painter and engraver Yannis Stefanakis introduces recently completed works that attempt a conversation with the poetry of Dionysi Papakostas, ‘The Stork and Hermes’. Works do not depict the literary work of Papakostas, but manage to create a constructive dialogue with the author.

Jannis Kounellis A widely recognized leading figure of Arte Povera and a seminal artist, taking inspiration from painting, collage, sculpture, performance and set design for both theatre and opera, Jannis Kounellis exhibits in Greece for the first time after 16 years. His presentation of new works include largescale sculptures and site specific installations.

Tassos Mantzavinos: Chess Tassos Mantzavinos presents a wooden structure at the centre of his solo exhibition, along with a series of paintings and other groups of projects. He demonstrates his understanding of chess as the significance of night and the importance of day, light and shade, sun and moon, black and white, life and death.

All that glitters: A Belgian contribution to Greek numismatics Ancient Greek coins from the collection of the Royal Library of Belgium are displayed in Greece for the first time. A presentation of excavations at Thorikos conducted by the Belgian School of Athens that resulted in the finding of a coin hoard is also exhibited.

Thorikos functioned as the link between the neighbouring silver mines of Laureion and the mint of ancient Athens and it was there that all preliminary work to ensure the amounts of metal needed for the production of Athenian coinage took place.

www.ekfrasi-art.gr

www.bernier-eliades.gr

www.k-art.gr

www.nma.gr

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Arts & events

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january

january

Badminton Theater Eva Yerbabuena Ballet Flamenco 5 Considered a prominent Flamenco dancer of our time, and with many prestigious awards under her belt including Premio Nacional de Danza in 2001 (National Dance Award in Spain), Eva Yerbabuena will make a stop at Athens’ Badminton Theater for two intense evenings of Flamenco, featuring her husband, guitarist Paco Jarana.

www.badmintontheater.gr

j a n u a ry

Benaki Museum Pireos Street Annexe Lizzie Calligas. Metoikesis Photographs by Lizzie Calligas of the old Acropolis Museum, taken with the artist’s idiosyncratic artistic gaze, offer an inside view of the old museum’s transformation from a permanent exhibition environment into a place for recording, packaging and temporarily hosting valuable ancient sculptures. The corpus of sculptures is transformed, as each is clothed in protective white coverings, while the game of shading enriches the semantic content of the dressed forms.

www.benaki.gr

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j anuary

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j anuary

Benaki Museum

Museum of Cycladic Art

Time.People.Their stories.: A study of the concept of theatricality outside the confines of a stage 6, 7 In an attempt to create a discourse between recorded history and that which remains unwritten, between the official story and the traces of small everyday stories through time; traces that become documents for the scholars of the future or that provide a starting point for the creativity of artists in the present day, this group exhibition displays the works of 24 Greek artists.

Participants include Vlassis Caniaris & Dimitris Alithinos, Kostas Ananidas, Angelos Antonopoulos, Yiannis Assimakopoulos,Yiorgos Gyparakis, Nikos Kanarellis, Kostas Tsironis, Pantelis Chandris, Arkas, Erietta Vordoni and Aglaia Christianou.

Vasso Katraki: Breath in Stone 8 With wood engraving as the focal point of her early career, Vasso Katraki crossed over to stone in 1955. Her exhibition at the Cycladic Museum aspires to bring together approximately 70 works of art spanning a creative course of 45 years: from the first wood engravings created during the German Occupation and the Resistance, to book illustrations and engravings featuring fishermen and the landscape of Messolonghi to her first experimentations on stone and the emblematic series of works that followed.

www.benaki.gr

www.cycladic.gr

On the town For location details see listings p76

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f e br ua r y

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fe b ru a ry

B & M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music / The New

B & M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music

Hellenic Quartet 9 Founded in 1991, The New Hellenic Quartet, is considered one of Greece’s foremost chamber ensembles. Their concert activity has taken them to various European cities and festivals, including the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the Beethoven Festwochen in Bonn, the Vaughan Williams Festival in London, the Music Harvest 2000 in Odense and the International Symposium “Schönberg in Berlin” in Vienna. This year the NHQ presents a cycle of 6 concerts including compositions from Haydn and Mozart to Respighi, Nielsen and Theodorakis. For a complete programme schedule, visit www.thf.gr

The Academy of La Scala di Milano This exciting collaboration between the B & M Theocharakis Foundation and the Academy of La Scala brings 5 concerts to Athens, featuring the stars of La Scala in Milan and piano soloists. In a tribute to Belcanto, French opera, Italian composers of the 19th century and Verdi, new voices take us to the magical journey through lyric song.

www.thf.gr

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february

february

Frissiras Museum

Herakleidon Museum

Naked Truth This exhibition offers an exciting journey, exploring the way in which leading Greek and European painters have represented the naked human body.

Starting with the works from the Frissiras Museum’s permanent collection, the viewer is offered a unique chance to experience a kaleidoscope of several different and deeply personal means of expression. www.frissirasmuseum.com

Edvard Munch: Beyond the Scream Athenians have the unique opportunity to explore ‘the artist behind the garbed skull, representing the universal anxiety of man’ at a unique exhibition of Norwegian Symbolist painter, Edvard Munch’s works at Herakleidon on loan by the Tel Aviv Museum of Modern Art (TAMA), the Munch Museum in Oslo as well as private collectors. Best known for his composition Scream, one of the most recognizable paintings in the world, Munch remains as controversial a century later as he was in his heyday when he painted Scream in 1893.

www.herakleion-art.gr

insider athens | December - January

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Arts & events

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f e br ua r y

2011 winter season

National Gallery

Gialino Music Theatre

Paris 1900, Art Nouveau and Modernism Treasures from the Petit Palais 10 The National Gallery celebrates a journey into the heart of the Belle Epoque, the beautiful period in European social history that began during the late 19th century and lasted until WWI. For Paris, it was a golden age when new forms of expressionism such as art nouveau and cubism were born. 1900 was the year the Grand and the Petit Palais were built and the Eiffel Tower was inaugurated.

Culturally, it was Paris’ embrace of glamour and Bohemian lifestyles that sprung in the city and artists experimenting with new forms that firmly established Paris as the trendsetter in the arts.

‘Mnimonium’ 30 Years of Night 11 In a series of performances that will definitely be discussed, Jimmy Panousis responds to Greece’s economic situation with the help of cops, pigs, and traffic wardens. With a combination of satire and song, Panousis mesmerizes the audience every Friday and Saturday night and offers a dose of harsh realities. Both widely criticized and celebrated, his controversial statements leave no issue untouched.

www.gialino.gr

www.nationalgallery.gr

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30 apri l

EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Politics of Art The political uses of public space, the states and experiences of oppression, the violent socio-political conflicts, the violation of human rights and discrimination, financial globalization, the reconstruction of collective memory and the reestablishment of a collective social space are some of the issues critically investigated by the works in this exhibition, opening a dialogue with society and everyday life, seeking alternative policies for collective action and artistic activism and a new interactive relationship between the artist and the community, both local and global.

www.emst.gr

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may

The Eynardou Mansion Maps of the Aegean Sea – Cartography and History 15th-17th century In a charming building that now houses the National Bank’s Cultural Foundation, part of a larger collection of maps will be on display from the Greek Cartography Archives. The rare collection comprises approximately 200 printed maps dating from the early sixteenth to the eighteenth century, old atlases, such as those created by M. Boschini (1651) and V.M. Coronelli (1708), geographical handbooks, among which Meletios’ Geography (1728) and the Introduction to Geographics and Sphericals by Chrysanthos Notaras (1716), as well as an original copy of the Carta of Rigas Pherraios in pristine condition.

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Art

Jannis Kounellis:

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sing the raw materials of industry – from coal, steel, tar, earth, gold and even live horses, artist Jannis Kounellis could be described as a sculptor of spaces – from physical spaces, to the distances that exist between people, to the void spaces created by time, memory and place. Known to operate in the realms of memory, with a body of work that spans the various disciplines within the visual arts, from painting to performance, a Kounellis show rarely feels like an exhibition – there is too much emanating from the placement of compositions that expand within their exhibition contexts. In reality, Kounellis teeters on the borders of exhibition and performance.

Returning to Athens for his first solo exhibition in Greece in 16 years at the Bernier/Eliades gallery, Stephanie Bailey looks at the work of Jannis Kounellis, one of Greece’s leading contemporary artists

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His last exhibition at Ambika P3, London, organised by the Sprovieri Gallery, (23 April-30 May 2010), was a large sculptural arrangement of twelve large steel containers filled with coal spelling out the letter K. Heavy winter coats hung on meat hooks on the walls of the ex-warehouse, and wine bottles were stacked together to form large, canvas like surfaces, bound together by swathes of black material, coats, rope, or – in the case of one composition – a sewing machine, complementing the lone presence of a woman’s slip hanging nearby. At once evoking an era of industrialisation and manufacturing, steam trains, migration and trade, the show expressed not only Kounellis’s skill in composition and spatial awareness, but his vital connection to the past and present and the narrative he extracts from such connections.

Meeting Kounellis at the opening of his current exhibition at the Bernier Eliades Gallery (November 25 -January 13, 2011), he describes the Ambika P3 show as one deeply rooted in a sense of grief. “But it’s not grief that is brought about just by death; it’s the general sense of loss or the communication of that loss.” Within the white cube Bernier/Eliades space, the weight and atmosphere of the large, overpowering steel installation at Ambika P3 has been translated into his current

show through large, slabs of iron coated in a canvas-like surface, upon which tar imprints of a winter coat are stamped on. Like the documentation of a performance piece, the crumpled imprints of the coat at once exude a sense of urgency, ferocity and futility; an expression of energetic, individual, and creative struggles that have been exposed for public view.

Another aspect to Arte Povera questions whether art that is created as a private, individual experience has any ethical necessity.The generation of artists who started the movement displayed a dedication to questioning society and convention while encouraging others to do the same.Within this context, an exhibition is a point in which artworks enter a journey of their own, as they become a part of the viewer’s own experience. For the artist, this is a surrendering of one’s most innermost thoughts – a loss that demands acceptance and holds a degree of responsibility towards the viewing public.

Perhaps this is why Kounellis insists that any journey is always driven by love in all its manifestations, from self-love, obsessive love, to compassion. For Kounellis, the journey is very much part of who he is, and the expression of that journey lies at the core of his work.

After studying at the Athens School of Fine Art, Kounellis left Greece to enrol in the Academia di Belle Arti in Rome in 1956 and has never returned to Greece to live. For a thirty year retrospective of his work in 1994, he staged his own retrospective on a boat named Ionion, which docked at the port of Pireaus. Considering where he was born, the artist’s affection for the work of Constantine Cavafy, a poet of the Diaspora, comes as no surprise.

Cavafy’s Ithaca is a poem that re-tells the story of Odysseus through the lens of a modern exile and has become a universal psalm to those longing for relief from the void created by exile or distance to something that has never existed, is missing or has been lost. Kounellis once said Ithaca is hypothetical; the desire for home, belonging or even peace, is a continuous and often torturous path upon which one must persevere to maintain a connection between the internal and external worlds of human experience.“A journey entails casting doubts upon one’s deeply held beliefs. The next step is the creation of an image that is as much self-revealing as it is enlightening of the intrinsic value of things,” he explains. Sometimes the search for a truth, a change or a sense of hope is a journey in itself, and one that often lasts a lifetime.

Returning to Greece for his first solo show after 16 years at the same gallery which staged his first solo show in the country some 31 years ago, I ask if his current exhibition feels like a homecoming, and if so, how he feels about showing his work in Greece at this point in time.

Kounellis replies, “This exhibition is a meeting, a moment; there is always a reason behind an exhibition, it is a beginning”, though he notes gravely, “Today, things are difficult, but they have always been difficult – even during my time.You have to be clear about what is happening and what you are doing.”The intensity behind Kounellis’s art lies in the knowledge that it is not just artists who need to express themselves and their thoughts; we all do. And when that expression enters the public arena, we should make it count. i Jannis Kounellis at Bernier/Eliades, November 25-January 13, 2011. For more information see www.bernier-eliades.gr.

insider athens | December - January

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Offering a rare insight into the artists behind the canvases, GRtists, Nicos Vernicos’ chronicle of contemporary Greek artists from his private collection is a great reference book on the evolution of artistic expression in Greece in the past fifty years This Page: Kostas Tsoklis / Right page: Alekos Fasianos, Maria Filipopoulou

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Art

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or a pragmatic businessman, Nicos Vernicos seems to harbour a lot of faith in the invisible forces at work. Convinced that a series of karmic twists of fate is what led to GRtists being conceived,Vernicos explains that it all started when years ago, he saw the private collection of collector Eli Broad in Los Angeles, where next to each art work, instead of the artist’s name he had juxtaposed a small photo of him/her. “I was thrilled by the idea and my initial goal was to add similar photos next to my art collection. Coincidentally – if we can assume coincidences exist in such cases – during that period I received an invitation for the book presentation of Penelope Massouri titled “Through the Lens” with 150 portraits of contemporary Greek writers.

And so the die was cast.The ideal photographer for such a feat had been found! And ever since 2003, Penelope, with her unique communicative experience with people of art and culture, was appointed to photograph contemporary Greek artists, whose artworks I have in a collection which I assembled along with my wife Barbara.”

Published by Ikaros with texts in Greek and English, GRtists features artists whose works are part of Vernicos’ formidable private collection, and who have in some way, charted the progression of contemporary Greek art over the past few decades. From artists who used art as an expression of defiance against the junta such as Vlassis Caniaris to the manipulated paper sculptures of Pavlos, the geometric abstractions of Opi Zouni’s compositions to Fassianos’ vibrant figures and rich imagery

evoking his own visual mythology, the book is as much a journey into Greece’s turbulent past as a barometer into the search for a national identity as Greece catapults itself from a fringe South European/ Balkan state to its present role as a hub for the region and the accompanying problems and responsibilities that has generated.

At the book launch at the new Benaki museum with several of the artists and sculptors featured in attendance, the faces, works and signatures of the artists were splashed onto a giant screen, encouraging in a somewhat Hegellian way, to render the artist as recognizable as his art.The reticent Penelope Massouri whose images grace the book, uses her craft skillfully by letting her lens settle on the artist, drawing out the complex machinations of the artists’ mind, thus lending a rare depth and intensity to the work that accompanies the photograph.

The book is dedicated to around 150 contemporary Greek artists, some of whom (like Moralis) passed away during the creation of the book. Reflecting on the osmotic relationship between art and adversity, Vernicos added, “More than ever, it is in times of crises that we need to seek our strength from art. Beauty gives perspective and the energy to pull oneself above the quagmire of quotidian life.”

Kostas Varotsos, whose Dromeas (the runner) bestraddles the intersection between Vassilissis Sofias and Vassilis Konstantinou avenues reflecting the drudgery of the common man that Vernicos hinted at in his speech, spoke of Vernicos’ passion for art. “He isn’t just a buyer of art. He is an empathizer of the artist, often reaching out and walking alongside the artist on his lonely journey.” i GRtists was launched n November 22, 2010 and is available at most leading bookstores.

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for life

In an interview with Ranti Bamgbala, AnnaBelinda Firos co-founder of the Herakleidon Museum introduces us to the ‘artist behind the garbed skull’ ahead of a retrospective on Edvard Munch’s works Beyond the Scream

Edvard Munch 1863-1944, pronounced ‘Munk’ was a Norwegian Symbolist painter, printmaker and a prominent figure in the genre of expressionistic art.

Munch was born to a household full of anguish and discord which was as a result of losing his mother and his sister, very early in his life, to tuberculosis. His father, the son of a pious priest, obviously haunted by the incidents, began to further retreat into obsessive and morose religious behaviour. He often chastised his children by telling them their mother was looking down on them from heaven and was grieving over their misbehaviour.

Munch, who constantly felt the shadow of death advancing on him wrote, “My father was temperamentally nervous and obsessively religious—to the point of psychoneurosis. From him I inherited the seeds of madness. The angels of fear, sorrow, and death stood by my side since the day I was born.”

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In 1885 at the age of twenty-two, Munch moved to Paris where he discovered French art and the Symbolist spirit. In 1893, he painted The Scream; Munch’s most famous work and one of the most recognizable paintings in all art. The Scream is part of a series The Frieze of Life in which Munch pondered the universal ideas of love and hate, life and death, melancholy and angst. ‘I was walking along a path with two friends - the sun was setting - suddenly the sky turned blood red - I paused, feeling exhausted, and leaned on the fence - there was blood and tongues of fire above the blue-black fjord and the city - my friends walked on, and I stood there trembling with anxiety - and I sensed an infinite scream passing through nature’. It has been widely interpreted as representing the universal anxiety of modern man.

What is the most important thing we should know about Edvard Munch?

His work reflects his life.They were certain scenes in his childhood and adulthood that remained engraved in his mind. He went back to those scenes and worked on them again and again and repeated and repeated them. There are several versions of the scream as a print but not as a painting.

Art

3 Many of his prints are in more than one version as he experimented with different colour variations, reworking woodcuts and lithograph to change colour. A lot of scholars believed him to be greater at printing that painting. We are showing prints of his.

Can you talk about his technique as an artist?

He was extremely innovative in his experiments in particular his woodcuts and he was familiar with all the printing techniques but in his woodcuts we see the most experimentations.

He used all the materials to their maximum potential by which he became very familiar with them and used them with true techniques.

We would like to concentrate more on the prints.

What inspired him towards symbolism?

His life really inspired him. He really wanted to paint and dissect the soul to find out what is universal in himself and all people. His work is quite striking because of the fact that he has dealt with universal subjects such as love, despair…broad subjects. He is often called the painter of the soul and just as Leonardo Da Vinci dissected human cadaver to learn about anatomy, (Munch) wanted to dissect the soul, starting with his own in order to know and discover what it is that makes us tick.

He reflected very much as to how humans react to different psychological conditions and different emotions. How do we react to jealousy to awakening of love and death?

How did his most important painting, The Scream, come to be?

It was possibly painted at a time when he was most sensitive to certain stimuli such as the colours of the sky. We are going to be showing a print called Anxiety and it reminds one The Scream the closest in that you really see anxiety in the faces of the people.

4 How do you feel The Scream ties into contemporary society?

What makes it accessible?

Most people at different times in life have moments in their lives when they can identify with the images. The human form you see doesn’t have detail and it’s the look the person has that is universal. We can all identify with that look.

Most of us do go through those anxious moments and (the scream) comes easily into the mind. You hear it in your mind. We are calling our exhibition Beyond the Scream though we will not be showing The Scream.

What do you hope to share with the audience in ‘Beyond the Scream’?

I’m hoping that people will get to know Munch’s work better. I hope that they will learn more about his life and his techniques.

We want people to leave thinking of Munch much more than as dictated

by The Scream. And we are hoping once they come to the exhibition they will have more images and more than the scream in mind when they leave. i © The Munch Museum / The Munch-Ellingsen Group / BONO, Oslo 2010 Gift of Charles and Evelyn Kramer. New York, to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. 1. The Heart - Woodcut with gouges and fretsaw. Impression in black, red and green from one wood block sawn into three pieces. 1898-1899, 44.6 x 35.6 / 25.2 x 18.6 2. On the Waves of Love - Lithographic crayon and tusche.

1896, 41.7 x 51.8 / 31 x 41.9 3. Madonna - Lithographic crayon, tusche and scraper (the color plates were first prepared in 1902). Printed in black, red, and blue from the keystone and several color plates.

1895/1902, 69.7 x 50 / 60.1 x 44.4 4. The Brooch. Eva Mudocci - Lithographic crayon, tusche, and scraper.

1903, 67.8 x 53.3 / 61.5 x 46

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Art

As the National Museum of Contemporary Art turns ten, Anna Kafetsi, Museum Director and Curator of the Politics of Art exhibition speaks to Stephanie Bailey on the evolution of art today as a platform for dialogue from its role as an ideological tool at the turn of the century.

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stablished in 2000 without a collection or a permanent location, the National Museum of Contemporary Art in Athens (EMST) has come a long way in ten years. However, despite having staged ambitious solo and group shows featuring artists from all over the world while amassing a quality, international collection of artworks, it still has a long way to go.Yet to move into its more permanent premises in the Former Fix Brewery, slated for 2011 (previously 2008), one can only imagine the challenges the museum faces as a public institution in Greece today.

With a goal to remain an unreservedly democratic institution, its current exhibition, Politics of Art, opened on the event of its tenth anniversary.

A bold statement for the museum’s future, it brings together forty international artists. The result is an overpowering display of the disturbing uniformity that comes with control, and the need to re-analyse power structures.

Entering the main exhibition space the question “WHAT IS DEMOCRACY?” is boldly stamped onto a wall. For a moment, a defensive distance takes hold.The same feeling is conjured when walking through the cluttered show. But it is important to remember the aesthetics of politics are always forceful. Maybe that’s why the exhibition atmosphere is distinctly tense. After all, questioning, challenging, or even refuting the political ideology that defines western capitalism and encapsulates the notion of freedom is by no means an easy task - but it could become a necessary task in the years to come.

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Anna Kafetsi, Director of the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Athens In terms of timeliness, what was the reasoning behind the Politics of Art? Actually Politics of Art is the second part to last year’s Heart in Heart, an exhibition diptych that detects the political in art, in the personal and public sphere. I’d say that it is the passage from the political body of an intimate and personal art to new public political topographies and artistic forms of activism. Both exhibitions include works from the Museum’s collection and are based on a dominant museum strategy, which allows us to rethink the collection as a vivid, constantly shifting field of new artistic relationships between works, abandoning fixed classifications and hierarchies and revealing the relational value of the works.

How does the theme relate to local and international politics today?

Both the art and artists - especially those who come from the peripheries, converse with the social and political environment at a local and international level. In this sense they open up the way. There is now a huge artistic interest in reconnecting with the social field, expressed in terms different to those that operated in the 70s and 80s which we have to study and interpret. This is what the exhibition Politics of Art does, aiming to open up platforms for a wider discussion today about the relationship between politics and aesthetics.

Does art have a political role and should it be political?

There is no ‘must’ in art. On the contrary, we owe each time to critically examine what we call political art and what its political content

is always to go beyond what we see, in the politics of representation.

This applies to the curator who creates with the exhibition a ‘text’ in the space on other ‘texts’. It also applies to the viewer, who through his reading ‘rewrites’ the exhibition text.

Is it possible or even worthwhile to attempt to find a united discourse in a complex world made up of an intricate network of histories, nations, and trade links?

The issue now is how we will oppose the enforcement of a single, one-dimensional culture in which we see the daily suppression of humanity. The need for recognition and promotion of multiculturalism is great because it opens up networks of contacts and exchanges with other people, social groups, and cultures. It is not sufficient to invoke cultural difference and national identity. This discourse leads inevitably to nationalistic allegiance and isolation. In Greece we have lived it intensely, especially in times of crisis. The point is to meet with others, to intersect, to interpenetrate. Then we can talk about the transcultural unity of the world. is. Today’s art certainly does not lend itself to ideological and political purposes as we knew it in the 20th century (totalitarian art, propaganda etc…). Nor can it ever return to a kind of break with social reality as it was with the historical avant-garde promoting political demands of aesthetic autonomy.What art does today is open a dialogue with society. It explores, comments, criticizes, awakens consciousness, and creates spaces that allow for the development of alternative political thought, discussion and action through imagination, resistance and the will to overcome.

Is Politics of Art a reaction to current events in Greece and was it staged as an attempt to assess social and political issues affecting the country?

There is no direct link between this exhibition, neither in intention, nor in content, with the current socio-economic crisis in our country, as in other European countries. But if the visitors make parallels, find answers or discover ways to escape from the reality faced by the private and public space, the better! Is this not always the challenge in art? This brings to mind a great work in the exhibition, The Raft by a great creator Bill Viola. It could certainly be read as a timely allegory with a deeply human message.

The content of the works are densely loaded with grave questions related to humanity and are often aggressive in their depiction - was the curation sensitive to the aggression expressed in the works?

Violence, danger, fear, phenomena of social and individual oppression, conflict situations, and dividing lines are present in many works in the exhibition. I think we should look for the intentions of a work of art and not its theme and the way it is represented on the surface.The challenge

How would you describe the ethos by which EMST began, and how has this evolved over the past ten years?

For many decades, Athens had no Museum of Contemporary Art, and this certainly had a great impact on the development of art and the public, in the fact that important Greek artists were unable to get out to the international scene, the fact that no artistic dialogue was developed with the rest of the world. Or even that no national collections of contemporary art were created. EMST was founded exactly to fill these gaps. Its ten year course which has many stops, such as wanderings from building to building, competitions for the reconstruction of its own building, building up of collections, many exhibitions, international collaborations, I would say that what stands out the most for me, is our systematic effort to create step by step a public for contemporary art.

That was and remains our biggest bet, which is being won.

What kind of role does EMST have within a local and international context and how will this develop?

For any museum and cultural institution to have a role it must first create its infrastructure. This is usually the first and obvious concern for those who decide on the foundation of any museum in any country.

In our case, in extreme conditions, we did not have this ‘luxury’. Today, EMST is without its building; this should now be completed to allow the museum to exist as it deserves. What is its own role since its beginning? Open borders inward and outward. Equal dialogue with centers and peripheries. A critical relationship with art and its history, both our own and that of others. Fresh ideas, experiments, and different voices.

With imagination, innovation and without bias. i See www.emst.gr for more information.

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B

ruce Chatwin was at the height of his fame when The Songlines topped the UK bestseller list in 1987. Two years later, at the age of 48 Chatwin died; one of the first prominent victims of HIV AIDS. Much has been written about the writer since his death; many have been drawn to the man because of what he was, his personality, his looks, and his relationships, not just what he wrote. The Chatwin ‘cult’ peaked ten years ago when Nicholas Shakespeare published his definitive biography to widespread critical acclaim. In Under the Sun: The Letters of Bruce Chatwin.

Shakespeare and Chatwin’s widow Elizabeth have compiled a voluminous collection of the writer’s personal correspondence from as far back as a child at an English boarding school, almost to his deathbed. Though the peak of Chatwin’s celebrity status has passed, Under the Sun arrives on the bookshelves to nudge our elbows, to ask who exactly Bruce Chatwin was, and how the man and the myth might be separated by re-assessing the messages he left along his meandering trail.

The Messinian gulf

As the letters of Bruce Chatwin are published, Mike Sweet discovers that few appreciate that the enigmatic travel writer has a lasting connection with Greece

Chatwin’s fixation with exploring nomadic behaviour, and his own acutely felt restlessness, resulted in a visit to Australia in 1983. Whilst his brief stay in the Australian central desert informed his research for The Songlines, his thoughts were not to crystallise until a trip to Greece later the same year. In a letter to his wife written from Patmos, Chatwin declared “…at last! I’ve found the right formula for the book: It’s to be called simply, Of the Nomads – A discourse. Needless to say the models for such an enterprise are Plato’s Symposium and the Apology. But so what.

I’ve never seen anything like it in modern literature, a complete hybrid between fiction and philosophy: so here goes.” As well as Patmos, it was in Mani (where he would visit his mentor Patrick Leigh Fermor) that Chatwin often felt most productive. “I’ve gone to ground in Greece for the winter” he told a friend from Kardamili in January 1984 “…work at least six hours a day...and am pressing forward rather than procrastinating.”

A year later, whilst still working on The Songlines, the most remarkable connection Chatwin made with Greece came about when he made a pilgrimage to Mount Athos. Robert Byron, the writer most revered by Chatwin, had written of Mount Athos “To anyone who has sojourned beneath the Holy Mountain there cannot but have come an intensification of his impulse to indefinable, unanalysable emotion.”

Chatwin would rise before dawn each morning at the Chilandari monastery to be enthralled by the Kyrie eleison - the ancient mesmeric prayers incanted by Orthodox priests. It was while walking one afternoon to the Stavronikita monastery that he saw a black metal cross on a ledge of white rock facing the sea. ‘There must be a god’ he scribbled in his

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Books TZ

notebook after another entry which begins to makes sense of Chatwin’s frantic restlessness.‘The search for nomads is a quest for god’’.The voyage that Chatwin began at Mount Athos evolved into a strong desire to be received into the Orthodox Church as he confronted his own death. But his journey into Orthodoxy was one of his unfinished voyages.

Chatwin died in Nice on January 19th 1989. His memorial service took place on Valentines Day a month later, in the Greek Orthodox Church of St Sophia in London. Attended by friends and family, including some of the UK’s leading writers, Martin Amis writing about the event later, declared that Chatwin had played a last joke on his friends, subjecting them to «a religion that no one he knew could understand or respond to». Salman Rushdie was also at St Sophia that day; the same day that he would learn of the fatwa calling for his assassination for writing The Satanic Verses.

Chatwin’s pull towards Greece was ultimately spiritual and it is of course Greece that provides the final immortal chapter to Chatwin’s story, for it was here that his wife and Patrick Leigh Fermor scattered his ashes. i Aghios Nikolaos

Under the Sun:The Letters of Bruce Chatwin by Bruch Chatwin, Elizabeth Chatwin and Nicholas Shakespeare is published by Jonathan Cape. ISBN: 0224089897.

Photographs by Mike Sweet

35.000 readers get the best of Greece each month. Subscribe to Insider and never miss another issue! Send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634 or 210.721.3450 insider athens | December - January

2011

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Nikolas Nikolaidis, General Manager of the Royal Olympic Hotel reveals his favourite city picks

Royal Olympic Roof Garden

Which area of Athens do you live in?

In the suburb of Galatsi, a 15-minute drive from the city centre.

What do you see from your balcony?

The densely forested Mount Parnitha to the north and the Attiko Alsos to the south, offering one of the most fascinating views of the city.

Your all-time favourite restaurant?

I have several favourites including Balthazar, Baraonda, Scholarhio in Plaka, Piperia in Neo Psychiko and the Ioannis Roof Garden restaurant at the Royal Olympic Hotel of course. It not only has an amazing view of the Acropolis and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, but also serves creative Greek cuisine and the fresh products used in preparation make all the difference.

Where do you unwind after work?

I like to visit one of the many Athenian “hotspots� with my friends. We meet for drinks at fashionable bars in Kolonaki, Thission and Psyrri, or, I simply enjoy the privacy of my home.

Galatsi - Alsos Veikou

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Describe your perfect Sunday in Athens.

Sleeping till late if possible, and then having a cold frappe while reading the Sunday newspapers on a beach next to the sea! Maybe doing some water or beach sports to keep me fit!

My Athens

Da-capo

Baraonda

Secret parking space in central Athens?

I choose to keep it a secret, as I am hoping to find it free again!

Can you describe a quintessentially Athenian sound, smell, taste and sight?

The sound of ice cubes crackling in a glass of ouzo, the smell and taste of freshly prepared seafood and the sight of people sitting in tavernas.

What’s your favourite city stroll?

One of the most scenic pedestrian roads of the city, and probably the entire world, is Dionysiou Areopagitou, starting from the Temple of Olympian Zeus, to Thission, Plaka and Monastiraki, by way of The New Acropolis Museum and the Herodes Atticus Theatre.

What is the ideal souvenir from Greece?

A small potted olive tree or Greek virgin olive oil, bring the feel and taste of Greece wherever you live.

Any favourite shops or boutiques?

I prefer small shops with personalized service and quality products like Vasilakakis in Galatsi or Sagiakos. I shop in mega stores or malls only if I really have to. I also frequent 7x7 in Monastiraki for great music selections.

Any funny cab stories?

Personally, I use a cab quite rarely. However, I happen to know a story about a cab driver who was separated from his girlfriend and was driving his taxi while listening to Greek “bouzouki” love songs, singing out loud and explaining to the people traveling with him how bad he felt.

In cases like that, all you can do is relax in the back seat and enjoy the memorable experience!

Best place to get away from it all?

I get away by sailing to one of the islands of the Aegean.

Most positive change in Athens over the last ten years?

The Athens transportation system redeveloped to support the 2004 Olympic Games including the new international airport, the metro, and the expansion of the suburban rail and tram.

If you were mayor for a day, what would you change?

Perhaps I would organize a big fest where cars and bikes would be banned from the city center; there would be free food and drinks for everyone, street performances and free entrance to all major archaeological sites. It would be a nice way to remind everyone of Greek hospitality and the fact that ancient Greek cultural achievements laid the foundations of Western civilization. i

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1 & 2. The French Institute was the venue for an engaging intellectual debate between Bernard-Henri Levy, France’s most televised and celebrated penseur and Michel Houellebecq the enfant terrible of French literature and recent recipient of the prestigious Prix Goncourt, to promote the launch of their joint venture, Ennemis Publics, translated into Greek and published by Hestia Editions.The debate at the packed auditorium was animated by journalist Yorgos Archimandritis.

Maratos) beamed, ‘It was an occasion to look back on the achievements of the past 40 years, especially the past ten, when we moved our campus to Pallini and an opportunity to look forward to the future.’ Also present were 4 Panagis Vourloumis and George David 5 Alexis and Marilena Phyllactopoulos and Lana Heard 6 George and Maria Leventis with Jeremy Downward, Chairman of the Board of Directors who launched an Olive Tree Fund to raise money for the school 7 Claudia RestisBreibart flanked by Peggy Brouhard and Nadia David 8 The Chinese ambassador to Greece Luo Linquan and his wife and 9 Alexandra and Kyros Filippou

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Campion celebrated 40 years of dedication to international education in style. 3 Headmaster Stephen Atherton (seen here with Tilemachos

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Entering another Galaxy From Peking to Paris, via Igoumenitsa Superfast Ferries had the pleasure of hosting 112 classic cars and rally crew as they traveled from Igoumetisa to Ancona for the fourth ‘From Peking to Paris’ rally. Beginning in Beijing, cars and crew journeyed through China, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Turkey, Greece, Italy, and finally, France.

After two months of renovation under the supervision of architect Alexandros Tombazis, the Hilton’s Galaxy Bar emerges renewed and stylish as ever. With planet and star studded ceilings and ten exclusive additions to the cocktail menu, Galaxy is the ideal lounge spot to take in the holiday season. The deck, of course, continues to offer one of the best views in town, with the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, and sprawling city lights below.

A gift worth savouring Lovers of sushi look no further. Matsuhisa Athens now offers a Omakase menu at just 70 euros and for the festive season, Nobu’s signature restaurant offers gift certificates starting at 50 euros allowing one to enjoy good food with great company. Please check Insider listings for restaurant details.

Na zdorovye!

Xmas blossoms

Stolichnaya walked away from The Spirits Masters 2010 competition in London with distinctive awards including ‘Master’ for Stolichnaya Red and ‘Gold’ for the ultra-premium vodka, Elit. Dimitris Andreou, brand Manager of Stolichnaya in Greece states,“this is a great achievement that confirms the reputation of Stolichnaya vodka.” The competition is organized annually by The Spirits of Business magazine, the only international publication exclusively dedicated to the world of spirits.

An initiative of European poinsettia breeders and growers, the Stars for Europe campaign aims educate the masses about the familiar holiday blossom. Focusing on versatile decorating tips with step-by-step photo guides, the promotion is currently active in 16 European countries. In addition to decorating tips, the campaign web site offers advice on how to care for poinsettias, how to purchase them, and presents the range of varieties. www.starsforeurope.com

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Cakes and bakes Known primarily for sinfully delicious, freshly baked cookies, Mrs. Fields Cookie Café has opened its doors in Halandri at Agias Paraskevis 91 and a second café in Nea Erythrea. The cozy café offers dozens of cookie flavours, pastries, freshly baked waffles, Yovana by TCBY frozen yogurt and cookie cakes just in time for the holidays.

Youth power In a worldwide event aiming to inspire the youth, TEDxYouth took place on November 20, Universal Children’s Day, where 54 organisations around were allowed to share inspiring ideas via live stream, bringing together the world’s leading thinkers and doers for a series of presentations and performances. ACS students were one of the select groups that participated by sharing their own ideas, inspiring curiosity, igniting new ideas, and empowering young leaders.

Mad music at The Mall

Holiday Bazaars

Metropolis powered by MAD is the latest addition to The Mall in Maroussi, and was welcomed with three days of celebration that included live performances by Elena Paparizou,Vegas, Mark Angelo, Shaya, Otherview, Playmen, Ska Bangies and The Brainwash Squad.

MAD Radio was on location and transmitting a live radio show from the new mecca of entertainment, where prizes were won, games were played, and fun was had by all.

As the holiday season creeps up on us, the Holiday Bazaar circuit begins. Stock up on goodies and gifts while supporting a cause: Friends of Animals NF Saturday & Sunday, December 11-12 / 10 am - 9 pm Location TBA in Nea Filadelfia

ACS Athens Friday, December 3 3 - 8 pm French Christmas Market Saturday, December 4 11 am - 4 pm at the French Institute in Kolonaki SPAZ Thursday & Friday, December 4 - 5 at the Voula Cultural Centre

Campion School Sunday, December 12 Noon - 4 pm Great Parenthood Greece Saturday, December 18 / 11 am - 1 pm at Learning Steps Montessori School in Kifissia

The Greater Athens Anglican Chaplaincy Sunday, December 5 11 am - 4 pm at Zappeion

The GB goes green As of November 2, Hotel Grande Bretagne designated all rooms on its 3rd floor as ‘Green Rooms’, incorporating an environmentally friendly twist to luxurious accommodations. New additions include BeeKind personal care products and recycle bins, adding to the existing recycling program of the hotel. In addition, four rooms on the 3rd floor are designated ‘Pure Rooms’, which are treated with cutting edge technology to clean the air and surfaces, providing a unique clean-air environment.

St. Catherine’s British Consulate School Saturday, December 6 3 - 7 pm International School of Athens Sunday, December 7 11 am - 4 pm

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Cultural Dialogues A new cultural space and architectural landmark in Athens in the form of the Onassis Cultural Center on Syngrou Avenue opens its doors on December 7. Including a 900-seat amphitheatre, a 220 seat auditorium, a 700 sq mt exhibition space, an electronic library and a restaurant (designed by Aimilia Papaphilippou), the centre aims to showcase Greek culture and its relevance and impact on contemporary society. The building, conceived and designed by Architecture Studio in Paris, incorporates ancient Greek elements of architectural purity and innovative use of natural and artificial light.

Headed by Dr Christos Carras, the centre features an art exhibition, Visual Dialogues, displaying the works of 14 artists. Book ahead for Victoria Chaplin and Jean-Baptiste Thierree’s Invisible Circus from December 28 to January 2.www.sgt.gr, www.onassis.gr

Fashion statements When Hermès opened its new store in Paris on Rue de Sèvres (at the Lutetia hotel’s indoor swimming pool) it was more than a fashion statement. Coming on the heels of LVMH acquiring a 17% stake in Hermès, the new store launch makes a strong statement of creativity and of Hermès’ foray into interiors. Hermès artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas said “Its good to know we’re coveted, very coveted.” The most striking part of the store are three giant, nearly 9 mt tall ‘huts’ in latticed ashwood by architect Denis Montel of RDAI. The store showcases the recent addition of furnishings, fabrics, wallpaper, carpets by American artists Janis Provisor and Brad Davis, and the new Jean-Michel Frank par Hermès numbered furniture re-editions.

Kyhlberger Gallery A new gallery, The Kyhlberger opened on November 25 at Sina 42 featuring the works of Bedros Aslanian. Nausikaa Konstas, the gallery owner “aims to have an open-minded approach to the Fine Arts, not restricting itself to one style, period or medium.”

She hopes the first exhibition ‘Colours of Serenity’ will “infuse optimism and highlight the healing powers of art.” Forthcoming exhibitions include contemporary Greek art, Chinese antiques, aboriginal painters and Art Nouveau glassware.

More PBox in the city Following the success of their eponymous restaurant in Kifissia, PBox’s Costas Pissiotis and chef Christoforos Peskias are set to recreate the same magic as in their flagship restaurant at a new venue: the Periscope Hotel on 24 Haritos street in Kolonaki in mid-December. Designed by Theodore Zoumboulakis, the restaurant will have an open plan kitchen and the look and feel of a deli. An additional feature: a sumptuous Greek breakfast! Open from early morning till midnight, PBox Kolonaki promises to be the next new hotspot.

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Talking point

LZC

It somehow seems fitting that Giorgos Kaminis will take over as mayor on January 1, 2011.

Whether you supported the former law professor’s campaign ahead of the November local elections or whether you felt his predecessor Nikitas Kaklamanis was a safer pair of hands, or even if the whole contest past you by, you cannot ignore that Athens finds itself on the cusp of something dramatic.

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he recession and the looming threat of Greece’s bankruptcy may tip it into a frightening oblivion from which it could take years to recover, or the passion of a small group of people able to harness the growing spirit of activism spreading through the city may help it become one of Europe’s most attractive capitals.

Kaminis, Greece’s former Ombudsman, seems to be a breath of fresh air at a time when the city is desperately in need of some inspiration.

Although he was endorsed by PASOK and Democratic Left, he ran his campaign as an independent, which is a rarity for a seat as prized as Athens, which had been New Democracy’s control since 1986. PASOK never really believed in Kaminis: his endorsement was treated as if it was a madcap scheme hatched by Prime Minister George Papandreou.

Many high-ranking officials within the party thought Kaminis too lightweight for the role. In a sense they were right because he is a political lightweight – he didn’t have anything to say about the EU-IMF memorandum or the PASOK-inspired overhaul of local administration.

All he had to propose was ways to improve Athens. Ultimately, though, that’s what got him elected. His detachment from the political milieu was vital to his campaign because it allowed Athenians to tune into his message, which was one of making the city cleaner, safer and smarter.

It’s what Athens had been crying out for since the splurge of activity ahead of the 2004 Olympics.

The last decade has brought to the fore some stunning contradictions in Athens: as its citizens have gradually developed an environmental con-

30 insider athens | December - January 2011

science, City Hall has allowed the capital to become dirtier; as life has returned to parts of the city that were previously deserted, so authorities through neglect and disinterest have allowed other neighbourhoods to become no-go areas, as the nightlife has become more varied and attractive, no moves have been made to facilitate people’s movement around the centre and as this place with the deepest of ancient roots has become a modern multicultural metropolis, so hatred and mistreatment of its newest residents has been allowed to grow unchallenged.Yet, despite all this, Athens is still very much alive and kicking. Even with the economic crisis taking its toll on trade and tourism, life still emanates from every pore of the city, whether it is in the centre or its suburbs.

One of the reasons for this is that Athens is benefiting from a growing collective conscience. An army of 20- and 30-somethings, many of whom have experience in living in other European or even American cities, have realised the potential Athens possesses and are determined it should fulfil it. So, over the last few years a host of social groups have emerged to try and reclaim the city, either by arranging to clear rubbish or to plant trees or simply just to get together and exchange ideas.They have been greatly enabled by the growth of the free press and online social networking, without which they would still be germinating rather than flowering. Groups like Atenistas, blogs like Athensville and columns like Dimitris Rigopoulos’s Urban Lab in the Lifo weekly have now become as established parts of the city as the pigeons in Syntagma Square and the smell of grilled meat in Monastiraki.

Rather than just being part of the street furniture, though, groups and individuals like these are helping their fellow urbanites develop a greater appreciation of their city and, therefore, an opinion about how it should function.This desire for a more liveable, friendly and contemporary city tied in perfectly with the Kaminis candidacy. Both of them are about

eschewing politics in favour of policy and of doing what is best for the city, rather than what is best for the party.

There is a long way to go for Kaminis and Athens. The problems are as sprawling and as difficult to negotiate as the city itself. For starters, the centre has turned into a purgatory for residents, shopkeepers and immigrants. Like the city as a whole, it stands on the edge of heaven and hell - tipping it the right way is going to require an almighty effort.

Equally, cleaning up the city, providing better access, attracting more visitors and supporting local business is going to be a tall order at a time when money is going to be in desperately short supply.

However, there are hopeful signs that the potential to transform things exists: Eastern Europeans, West Africans, Asians and others live fairly harmoniously in the parts of the city where they have made their new homes, four thousand people more voted in the municipal elections for a TV presenter who wants better cycling facilities in Athens than for the far-right candidate who wants to force immigrants to leave, and despite the economic downturn and negative images of the city broadcast around the world this year, thousands of visitors came for the Classic Marathon in November, leading to 90 percent of hotel rooms being filled and the Culture and Tourism Ministry launching the “Athens Every Week” programme to attract tourists for other big events in the capital.

Most of all, though, Kaminis’s election signals a changing mood among the public, which is reflected in the significant part that grassroots activist groups played in his victory. There seems to be a gradual realisation among the more open-minded and forward-thinking that we do not just live in Athens but, like a partner, we live with it. And, as is always the case with the ones we love, they need us most when they are at their lowest. The next couple of years will show whether we can rescue this relationship and make it last. i

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@ photos by Angelos Giotopoulos

With To Nisi screening on Greek television to popular and critical acclaim, Victoria Hislop, author of The Island, talks about her love affair with Greece, To Nisi and her next eagerly awaited book to Mike Sweet.

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Books TZ

I don’t think it could ever be made better. I hope it is seen internationally...

“People say things about Greece and I feel wounded. ”

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’ve arranged to meet the bestselling writer in the airy 8th floor café of the Athens Gate Hotel. There couldn’t be a more fitting location to meet the most popular English language author writing about Greece today. Overlooking the Temple of Zeus, Lykabettus rises in the distance, and the Parthenon, glowing warm yellow in the autumn sun, seems close enough to touch.Victoria arrives. She stayed at this hotel first, not for the views, but because the actors’ casting sessions took place nearby for To Nisi. I mention that the setting is somewhat different from the English market town of Tunbridge Wells where she was born.Victoria laughs and the interview begins.

Was it your upbringing in a quintessentially English town that created a yearning to travel to more exotic and romantic climes?

One thing about Tunbridge Wells is that it gave me a fantastic education. I went to a grammar school. I don’t think my children have had even a tenth as good an education as I did. I always loved languages and languages are always pulling you somewhere else.

My parents hadn’t travelled much; they didn’t have much money. We went to Bognor Regis every year for our holiday. Do you know Bognor Regis? It’s very unromantic! All I remember is sitting on the beach behind a windbreak, ensuring it didn’t blow away. The first time I left England was when I was fifteen to Malta. I loved it.

So your background is certainly not one of privilege?

The 1960s and 70s were different.We had a fridge and a television. I had a friend who had a deep freeze and a colour television.To me, those things separated her; I thought she was privileged. I didn’t know what a frozen beefburger was! My mother, maybe like a Greek housewife, cooked fresh food everyday. So perhaps I was the privileged one - but in a different way. My grandfather was a journalist, the editor of Hansard, [the official record of the debates that take place in the British Parliament]. My father left school at 14 to join the local paper but I think he always felt in the shadow of his father. He went into public relations, which was a new kind of world in the 1960s, but he didn’t have a great career.

Tell me about your first visit to Greece.

The holiday to Malta was the end of my parents’ marriage. After that

my mum had to work. One of her priorities became to take my sister and me on holidays abroad. We went to Italy and then to Greece. My first experience of Athens was when we landed at the old airport in Glyfada. We got on a coach at what must have been 2 o’clock in the morning. It was a budget holiday and the coach drove around, dropping people off in various hotels for at least an hour. Finally we got to our destination; all in the dark. Every sign was unintelligible. The three of us were exhausted and sleeping in one room. We must have gone to sleep for about half an hour and then there was this roar. I thought we’d landed in a war zone! Actually what had happened was that the coach driver had brought us back to Glyfada airport, to a hotel which was literally beside the runway. It was the roar of a jet engine. We opened the curtains to see what was going on and just a few yards away a jet was taking off! But in the end we stayed there; we had a great holiday. We used to get the bus into the centre. It was magical. Mum was 40, very beautiful and the three of us looked like sisters; three English women wandering about in Athens, usually lost. Being whistled at, all of that.

And I thought ‘this is fun’.

So that introduction to the ‘kamaki’ culture made a deep impression?

It was an immersion by fire, but we didn’t feel threatened. In England our doors are shut most of the time. It’s the mentality. Because people have now traveled and seen the Mediterranean lifestyle, I suppose we’ve tried to bring some of that back; of course we have more pavement cafes now. I always hated being cold. I loved being able to walk about without a cardigan, that awful English object which is something English women keep in their handbags.

Does your husband Ian [Ian Hislop, editor of the Private Eye, the celebrated British satirical magazine and a popular broadcaster] share your love of Greece, and how did you meet?

He loves the ancient stuff here.We met in a library at Oxford University in 1980.We were both reading English and in colleges next to each other.

He’s very funny and that’s the quality I like most in people.

Let’s talk about your first novel The Island which has now been translated into 43 languages, and the remarkable adaptation

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would be nice if Greece could re-invent how things are done. I think this is “the...Itmost beautiful country in the world; I really do. ” here as the epic TV serial To Nisi. Were you surprised at the book’s success?

I was very surprised by the Greek reaction to the book. I was amazed it ever came out here. I was afraid because I thought all my ignorance of Greece was going to be exposed. I had done relatively little research, only really into the leprosy. For some reason it’s done massively well in Norway. In Croatia it’s also been very popular.

When the first episode of To Nisi screened, it had a 61% audience share, which is probably a record for Greek television drama.

Has the reaction to To Nisi surprised you?

I don’t want to sound arrogant but I’m not surprised. The director Theodoris Papadoulakis is a star. The actors are exceptional. It’s a result of the dedication of the people working on it.

You’ve had quite a hands-on role in the production, with a lot of liaison with the producers. In what way?

I’ve probably got much too involved in the nitty-gritty. For instance, when I wrote the book there was a particular, very symbolic set of cups and saucers in one scene. Eleni takes half of them to Spinalonga and leaves the other half in Plaka. I was there when it was about to be filmed and I looked at the cups they were going to use. I panicked. I got in my car and drove at a hundred and fifty kilometers an hour into the nearest town, screeched to a halt outside the china shop and bought three little cups and saucers; fine porcelain. I ran back and said these are the cups.

The detail meant a lot to me, to get it right.The producers have millions of things to get right. About ten of them I interfered with!

You’re also managing the international distribution of To Nisi with the Mega channel. Do you feel the series could be an ambassador for Greece at this difficult time?

The possibility of it being made in other countries still exists, so this one may not be distributed everywhere, as it would prevent another version being made. I’m torn because I feel this production should be seen in lots of countries; I don’t think it could ever be made better. I hope it is seen internationally. I think Greece needs outside exposure to the world at the moment. People say things about Greece and I feel wounded.

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What do you make of the difficulties Greek society faces now, the austerity measures and the reaction to them. What have you seen that is perhaps a microcosm of the problems faced which need to be overcome?

This is a simplistic analysis, but just take one example - the system of post-dated cheques.This creates massive stress for people, as everybody’s owed money. I think it’s gone too far; people are at breaking point. It would be nice if Greece could re-invent how things are done. I think this is the most beautiful country in the world; I really do. I’ve been to every continent and I always wish I were back in Greece. It’s a question of putting it back together.

I know you’re reluctant to divulge too much about your next book, but I promise not to tell anyone else other than Insider readers! I understand that it’s set in Greece?

Yes. All I can say is that The Island had to have a bit in England. The next one is all set in Greece. It’s somebody learning about their family history. I’m not sure anybody’s going to like it! I’m not writing it to please anybody. I’m writing it for me, as ever, and if people want to read it then they’re really welcome. I’m writing it to explain to myself, or anyone who is interested, what I love so much about this country. In this case the protagonist is a young man discovering something about his past. I love this place so much I want people who don’t understand why it’s like it is, to hear my interpretation.

Understandably coy about revealing more about the new book, we leave it at that. The book will be published in late 2011. Our conversation comes to an end. As we are about to leave, an elderly aproned woman who works in the hotel kitchen approaches. Dina Denaxa has been waiting for the chance to say something. Dina takes Victoria gently by the hand and in Greek tells the author how deeply To Nisi has affected her, and how much she would like to thank Victoria for writing the story.

With obvious heartfelt sincerity the writer thanks Dina for her interest.

As we leave the hotel, Victoria reflects. “That kind of thing happens a lot now when I come to Greece. It’s like getting into a warm bath.”

And with that,Victoria Hislop disappears into an autumn afternoon in the city she loves. i

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Art

An ancient agora for modern day Athens and beyond, Ranti Bamgbala looks at The Meet Market. goods are original, safe, and legal enough to be included in the market mix.This allows for an occasion that embraces all ages and all manner of people with enough entertainment to stimulate and engage even the most reluctant shopper.

Alison Damianos is the founder of the Meet Market.

What inspired you to create this project?

Before moving to Greece, I lived in San Francisco and London and used to sell my jewellery at markets and I loved that whole market culture. I have always enjoyed (that) atmosphere whatever city I have lived in. I love the face to face interactions, the community vibe, and the potential of the market as the beginning of successful commerce.

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he Meet Market began one fated day in December 2007 and this once-a-month two-day extravaganza has been growing steadily ever since.With over 150 merchants and more than 3,000 guests each month, here you will find the largest collective of designers, craftsmen and artists showcasing their work in amongst collectors and independent businesses. The event takes place in a variety of venues, exhibiting and selling products alongside a full line-up of music from local DJs and music producers.

The Meet Market’s main aspirations were to create a monthly contemporary market in Athens and in this they do succeed.The event, always a hot talking point of each calendar month, fits into and unifies the diverse cultural scene in Athens. The Meet Market is open to all who wish to showcase their goods and their skills and talents. This doesn’t render it a free for all. On the contrary; those who wish to participate in the market are vetoed by a committee who decide whether the

When I arrived in Greece I couldn’t find anywhere in the vein of what it is that I like and the gap in the market showed that there was room for it. So we did a Xmas bazaar at K44 and it was a great success. We made it legal and from it became a stronger and stronger presence.

How has the project evolved?

The project has gone better than I imagined. It’s a surprise that it took off so well. It was always about supporting local businesses which it does successfully. There are so many talented people in Athens with professional work and strong web presence.We wanted the event to be a two day market party celebrating local creation and innovations.

The music element is important. From my observations of the market places in Greece and my own personal experience, they were very female orientated and generally not a pleasant atmosphere for a man to walk into. We wanted something in which to stimulate the boys to attend and we quickly figured out a way to include the boys’ presence.

As a result we introduced the DJs; the music also being an example of the creativity of the market.

Why do you think people like gifts?

Because they are free. Even if you come to The Meet Market with no money you don’t walk away empty handed. Prizes include pins, Mix CDs from established DJs, the poster, a raffle basket which consists of items donated from by the artists on each stall as the grand prize. Last year we gave out musical instruments, triangles. It all depends on the overall theme.

The commercial aspect of The Meet Market is one thing, but that’s not the main focus. Come by to see your friends or just come listen to the music and dance. i

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End the year on a high note by indulging in decadent delights and by showering your friends and family with a thoughtful gift. Insider makes the arduous task of filling stockings with the perfect present that much easier by short-listing a few gift ideas

For store adresses see page 39

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1. Magic hand hearts praline limited edition, available at Sephora 2. 2011 Labyrinth good luck charm by Zolotas 3. Holiday black color play 5 in 1, available at Sephora 4. Silver wheel-shaped charm with the number 11 symbolizing vision, idealism, and spiritual development available at the Cycladic Museum Shop 5. Relax in your very own private steam room by TEUCO available at Gemini 6. Meddasset’s 2011 good luck charm “Tortuguita” by Liana Vourakis, available at

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8 www.medasset.org 7. Colourful leather evening bag by Folli Follie 8. Plexi cuff bracelets with 22K gold detail

by Lalaounis 9.Handbags from Marc by Marc Jacobs 10. Cent Plis Des Miao shawl by Hermes 11. Body scrub, lotion and loofah set available at Sephora 12 Hermessence ‘Iris Ukiyoe’ fragrance available at Hermes 13. Red make-up pouch trio available at Sephora

1. Handmade plywood children’s rocking stool with 100% recycled paper animal head by 11% available at Thission Revisited II / TR2.

5. Nintendo Wii New Super Mario Bros. Limited Edition, available at Public.

2. Children’s chairs inspired by Keith Haring’s designs available at Zoumboulakis Galleries.

7. Diana Mini camera and Supersampler from Formika Design

3. Keith Harin’s wooden domino set available at Zoumboulakis Galleries 4.Totem tree made of recycled paper available at www.oladeco.gr.

6. Mini Micro children’s scooter available at Public.

8.Whimsical charms by Links of London Golden Hall.

9. Panda doll, available at Sephora

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Agora

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2. Handmade velvet house shoes by Foster & Son available at Thission Revisited II / TR2 3. Set of four ties in heavy silk by Hermès 4. A complete range of men’s toiletries by Taylor of Old Bond Street available at Thission Revisited II / TR2 5. Barnes & Noble’s 2GB Nook eReader available at Public

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6. Motorola’s response to the smartphone phenomenon - the FLIPOUT - available in various colours at Public 7. 18K gold and lapis lazuli cuff links

by Elena Votsi

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40 insider athens | December - January 2011

8. Samsung’s NX10 digital camera with i-Function technology available at Public 9. BeoSound iPod dock available at Bang & Olufsen

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Bang & Olufsen Voukourestiou 18, Athens, 210 364 32012

Golden Hall Kifissias 37, Maroussi, 210 685 5848

Room Service Foivis 16, Glyfada, 210 894 5200

Cycladic Museum Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Athens, 210723 9382

Hermès Voukourestiou 1, Athens, 210 3233715.

Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Kolonaki, 210 360 0936

Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Athens, 210 620 5721

TEUCO Gemini Petros Messisklis & Co 23rd klm Marathonos, Pikermi, 210 603 6266

Fleria Trends P. Ioakim 35, Kolonaki, 210 722 9698

Liana Vourakis available at www.medasset.org

Folli Follie Ermou 37, Athens, 210 323 0601 Formika Design Store 9 Pallados, Athens 210 323 4636

Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3, Kolonaki, 210 363 6030 Public Syntagma Square 210 324 6210

Thission Revisited II / TR2 Vasilis 16,Thission, 210.346.0096 Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Athens, 210 360 1272 Zoumboulakis Galleries Kriezotou 6, Athens, 210.364.0264

1. Festive flowers by Fleria Trends 2. Andy Warhol’s Marilyn tin and chocolates available at Zoumboulakis Galleries 3. Decorative ‘paper’ boat available at Room Service 4. Decorative Christmas ornaments by Reiko Kaneko available at www.oladeco.gr 5. Set of four ‘Crinkled’ porcelain cappuccino cups by Revol available at www.oladeco.gr 6. Dolce Gusto by Nescafe offers warm beverages for the entire family available at www.dolce-gusto.gr

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Travel

The smell of crackling wood, panoramic views, gourmet cuisine, après-ski pampering and designer interiors. Maya Gaki promises heaven on earth at the Semeli Resort

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egend has it that Zeus was so besotted with the bewitchingly beautiful Semeli that he transported her onto the slopes of the Pieria mountains (miles away from her native Thebes) so that he could admire her from atop his throne on Mount Olympus. Zeus’ wife Hera, on discovering the relationship, quickly sought to get rid of Semeli who was carrying Zeus’ child, the god of fertility and bacchanalian delights, Dionysos! Millennia later, the only celestial power-games being played out here are the forces of nature competing with each other to cast a spell on the mortals who visit Elatochori.

Named after the legendary princess, the Semeli resort is perched 1050 metres high on the Pieria mountains, enveloped by forests of beech, oak and fir trees offering mesmerizing views of Mt.Olympus (home to the afore-mentioned warring gods) and the unspoilt Thermaic Gulf below. A mere 5 kms away from the ski resort of Elatochori, here is a great way to spend a guaranteedly white Christmas while slaloming down the slopes.

Within minutes of arriving at the resort, you’re magically rid of all your urban impulses and high-decibel addictions. Almost instantly, you surrender to the irresistible natural splendour that surrounds the resort and succumb to the creature comforts within the hotel. And if you’re loathe to try out any of the outdoor activities (and there are plenty to choose from), the inviting aesthetics of the resort offer a great excuse to stay in.

In a tasteful mix n’ match of styles marrying vintage with ubermodern, handmade Bukhara and Isfahan carpets in rich, warm hues blend in effortlessly with the clean lines of Guy Laroche sofas in the lobby; hand-carved monastic tables are paired with Philippe Starck stools and ornate (yet modern) chandeliers at the Lefkothea restaurant. Oversized

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Travel

Info box The ski centre at Elatochori Contact: Tel: 23510 82993-4, email: info@elatohori-ski.gr, www.elatohori-ski.gr Mountain: Pieria mountains Altitude: 1410 m - 1912 m 8 slopes out of which two are red, two blue and four are green Distance: 474 kms from Athens, 36 kms from Katerini and 100 kms from Thessaloniki

mirrors, large fireplaces (almost all the rooms have a fireplace) and the red cherry sofa that dominates the lounge area complement the unique aesthetics and functionality of the hotel. The resort has 27 rooms and 5 suites, each designed to make guests spend a memorable few days here. Not surprisingly, most of Semeli’s guests do return to relive the hospitality and the refined atmosphere.

Achilles Chatzinikos of Semeli resort confirms, “Our philosophy is simple. We love nature, believe in quality and are always searching for the highest aesthetics.We enjoy working together. And most importantly, we believe in sharing. Our hospitality comes from the heart. We love what we do. We enjoy the company of our guests and are always sorry when it is time for them to go.”That commitment comes through in the attention to detail be it in the freshly squeezed orange juice brought to your breakfast table or the personalised service at the resort’s spa.

The spa itself has three distinct areas, with a completely different décor ranging from Ottoman to minimalistic, offering a completely different spa experience within the same complex. For hedonistic guests, treatments include aromatotherapy, shiatsu, traditional Thai massage, antihead, back & shoulder rubs and invigorating sports massages. Guests too lazy to traipse down to the treatment aeria can create a spa of their own in the privacy of their room, complete with candles and jacuzzi.

And if that isn’t a convincing reason enough, the cuisine at Semeli is truly sensational. Let’s start with breakfast – there has never been a better reason to get out of bed! A veritable feast of warm bread, homemade marmalade, freshly squeezed juice, a full selection of teas and coffee, a choice of cereals, eggs, pies, cheeses, olives, yogurt, fresh and dried fruits.

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For meals, the spacious Lefkothea restaurant (250 square mts) offers sophisticated fare combining traditional Mediterranean cuisine with a gourmet twist using fresh, local produce from the property. My top four picks from the kitchen would be: risotto with porcini and truffle oil, filet mignon with grilled vegetables and green pepper sauce, pork loin garnished with wild rice and pine tree honey sauce and wild boar cooked in the wood-fired oven and deer with wild berries. The wine, as you have guessed by now, comes from local vineyards.

Lest you’re tempted to believe that Semeli is strictly a romantic getaway for couples, the resort is extremely child-friendly with connecting rooms for families and a large playground equipped with toys and games and (heres that attention to detail again) baby cots and high chairs on request.

An ideal getaway for all seasons, Semeli offers plenty of outdoor options from a simple escape in nature to a leisurely walk in the forests and more adventurous activities such as water rafting at the Enippeas gorge and hiking, trekking and rock climbing on Mt. Pieria and Mt.Olympus. In the winter, the ski centre at Elatochori is among the newer and better-organised winter sport venues (please see info box). In the summer, a 30 minute drive from the resort and you’re transported to miles of splendid sandy beaches and sparkling azure waters. For the culturally inclined, Thessaloniki is little over an hour’s drive away; the royal tombs of Vergina and archaeological finds at Dion and Pella are about 45 minutes away.

So if you’d like to experience a different Greece in the lap of luxury, visit www.semeliresort.gr i

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Angelo Riatsch’s studio is a study in contrasts. Stark, life sized statues in Greek white stand serenely against powerful paintings in vibrant hues. Insider visits her at her atelier to discover a restless artist who continually reinvents herself, quite like an artistic version of Lady Gaga

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ngelo Riatsch’s home in Glyfada reflects the nomadic existence she has lived as the wife of an itinerant executive in the hospitality sector (husband Gianni was the General Manger of the Hilton in Athens during the 2004 Olympics and they have lived in Santiago, Florence, Miami, the Bahamas and Paris to name a few of their postings), her cosmopolitan background and her passion for her craft. Her paintings eat up entire walls, around 50-odd statues stand huddled together in a conference of their own in the front garden, the dining area – a designer’s delight - opens onto her studio and the staircase leading up to living area are lined with rock-sized crystals. Every piece of furniture and trinket has a story, recounted in elaborate detail. Apparently she rearranges her home so often that her family often come down to breakfast to a completely transformed household – so much so that they’ve now requested a decent ‘mourning’ period and a bit more time to get their bearings right! When Angelo arrives for the interview, masses of raven hair framing her face, the energy she exudes is palpable.

46 insider athens | December - January 2011

In the atelier Your paintings and sculptures seem to focus on the human face.

What do you find so arresting about a person’s visage?

A human face is like an open book, designed for reading.You can read what you choose to depending on how many layers you’d like to unpeel along the way. There are so many aspects to a face that it is a shame to just see them uni-dimensionally. The heads I draw and paint are multifaceted, as I truly believe we all are. My paintings might be intimidating - with multiple heads soaring out of a fragile neck or with fractured faces that reveal layers of fault-lines beneath the surface - but that is how I interpret faces. The face is a mirror to the outside world of the turmoil and tug-of war within. The soul wants to be reflected through it, as does the intellect; then there are human needs to be vain, social conditioning on how to look and what to portray; emotions, age…. it is that complexity of the face that never ceases to fascinate me.

You describe yourself as a restive artist, constantly changing your treatment of subjects depending on the media you choose to work with and the phases in your personal and creative life.

How is Angelo the minimalistic sculptress different from Angelo the colourist?

I’m not a schizophrenic though it might come across that way! The materials I use have a great deal to do with how I approach them. I love everything that is architectural and that perhaps reflects in my sculptures being very minimal. But they aren’t cold statues…the materials I use resemble wood and that lends a certain warmness and humanity to them. My paintings are closer to my personality in the sense that they are full of colour and of implausible combinations. I’d be bored if I led a predictable existence. It’s the same with my art. I need to experiment and explore unchartered territories.

You experiment with so many different media - wood, plaster, canvas. Do you find it limiting or liberating?

I believe that a real artist cannot restrict himself to just one medium.

It is not the medium that defines the creative process but vice versa. I also think that as artists, our creative instincts make us more sensitive to different media. I have dabbled in everything from photography to writing, fashion, interior design and of course, sculpting and painting, depending on my mood, the year, or just the point in life I’m at. Having said that, I have deep admiration for those who have the consistency, direction, discipline and single-minded determination to focus on one medium. Personally, I am more for freedom.You need to have fun. I love what I do, but I couldn’t do it if I had to. I cannot relate to the ‘must’ in art. But I am all for parameters which are constructive and creative … that’s why I always work around a theme. Limitations do not mean that one has to give up experimenting. Picasso, for one, was painting plates at some point.

Your two major influences?

When I was young, it was Magritte. I love surrealists. I was always impressed by the simplicity of his compositions. In sculpture, it has got to be Henry Moore who taught me a vital lesson: Everything you see is not what it seems.

Any projects you’re currently working on?

I’m working on an exhibition in London. It’s a really big project and I’m currently in touch with the Hellenic Centre. I’m preparing for my annual summer exhibition of sculptures in Mykonos and I have a few interesting TV projects in the pipeline but its too early to reveal details. i

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Fashion

How would you define jewellery design?

Above all, jewellery design is beauty. This word for me includes quality of materials, high aesthetic of form and a clear and interesting inspiration.

Elena Syraka and Katya Voutiras transformed a long friendship into a business for a common passion: fashion. In an interview with Insider, Elena gives us a peek into her design process as she creates wearable jewellery and accessories from ubiquitous good luck charms to Russian boho-inspired compositions and rock bourgeois pieces combining leather, gold and precious stones.

What materials do you work with most often and why?

I work with gold, precious stones and leather. Since I started creating jewellery, I have worked with leather because it is a soft material that is easy to transform, yet at the same time, it gives a strong impression.

The combination of gold, precious stones and leather makes for a contemporary, unique design.

What is the most important criterion for you when you create a piece of jewellery?

One has to respect the function of a piece of jewellery, but the most important aspect for my designs is the inspiration, the quality and the commercial value. These three factors make a piece of jewellery successful.

Your creations reflect contemporary urban tastes and lifestyle – what inspires you?

Ancient Greek art and mythology inspire me.

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lena Syraka studied fashion and design at the Veloudakis School of Fashion and ESMOD in Paris. She has been designing jewellery for over a decade and has collaborated with leading brands and international companies, (often handpicked as most representative of contemporary Greek fashion) to create signature pieces for Levi’s, Clinique, Absolut vodka and Lacoste to name a few. Her jewellery designs grace the museum shops of the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art and she has created for Greek films including Olga Malea’s ‘Risotto’ and more recently, Atherides’ ‘A bee in August’ and theatrical productions such as ‘The King and I’ and ‘Victor Victoria’.

Katya Voutiras studied business and retail management in the UK and worked in fashion and PR in London before coming back to Athens as Head of Brand Communication and Event Marketing for Progressive PR overseeing the promotional activities of brands such as Escada, Clinique, Superfast Ferries, Mega TV, MAD TV, Athens Fashion Week and Goodys to name a few.

Since 2005, Elena Syraka and Katya Voutiras decided to combine their fashion, business and aesthetic talents to further the business’ expansion into other fields and newer horizons.

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With talented designers and fashion-conscious citizens, does Athens qualify as a fashion capital?

Athens could be regarded as a fashion capital, since I believe that we have a plethora of talented designers.The problem is that many designers are satisfied with just copying other designers. Athens is not widely considered a ‘place of interest’ amongst fashion circles and therefore does not have a large number of visitors. Sadly, unlike other fashion capitals, it has also not shown itself to be particularly organized or supportive of this industry. London, Paris, New York, Milan, is where everything is happening!!

Where do you retail your creations?

In Athens we sell at LiLaLo stores, Attica in Panepistimiou and Golden Hall, Zerteo Jewellers in Glyfada and Kifissia. For more information on stores, visit www.elenasyraka.com i

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Wellness

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Holmes Place’s holiday eating tips prove that the Christmas holidays and weight gain do not necessarily go hand-in-hand. The club’s nutritionists and trainers are here to help keep your wellbeing intact after Christmas, without depriving yourself of holiday treats.

Don’t skip meals Working up an appetite for the big holiday meal is a common mistake that leads to overeating. Whether the big holiday meal is at home or at a friend’s try to have a small healthy snack beforehand in order to limit your appetite and indulge with control.

Eat whatever you like Don’t deprive yourself of the foods that you love, just eat smaller portions slowly, and above all, enjoy it (eating slowly will also help you eat less).

Drink wisely The numerous social gatherings that occur during this time can lead to excess drinking, thus an excess intake of calories. Drink less and choose wine which contains fewer calories than a mixed drink.

Use the ‘right’ ingredients Your favourite recipes can turn out just as good if you use low-fat ingredients.

For example, you can make low fat eggnog by using fewer eggs and low-fat milk or use less bread for turkey stuffing. Our Nutritionists can recommend low-calorie substitutes for your favorite delights.

Don’t forget to exercise You may feel like you’re not able to follow your daily exercise routine, but there are ways to help you stay fit during the holiday season. Perhaps you’ll have the chance to ski, take short walks, or ask one of our Trainers for additional personalized tips.

For more personalized nutritional advice, visit the Nutrition Centers at Holmes Place Clubs. During your first visit, a fat measurement will be performed, as well as a precise measurement of your basic metabolism, which plays an important role in composing an individualized diet.

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Nikos Roussos and Georgianna Hiliadaki of Funky Gourmet restaurant spin a wholesome family meal into a gastronomical experiment worth celebrating

Beef Fillet with potato puree, mushrooms sautĂŠed and ‘maki tartar’ (4 people)

For the potato puree 4 small Yukon gold potatoes 300 g. butter, cold, cut into small cubes 150 heavy cream, 7g sea salt 1. Peel the potatoes. With a special machine cut the potatoes horizontally so as to make 4 potato rings for the maki tartar. Reserve for a later use. Fill a large pot with cold water. Cut the remaining potatoes in the same size and place them in the pot.

2. Bring the water to a boil, reduce to a simmer and let them cook for 20 minutes or until cooked through.

3. Just before potatoes are ready, put the cream in medium saucepan and heat up.

4. Remove potatoes from water, peel them carefully and quickly and while still hot pass them through a ricer.

5. Put the riced potato into the saucepan with the cream and using rubber spatula slowly incorporate butter into potatoes 1 or 2 cubes at a time. Be careful not to overheat the mixture and keep stirring until completely emulsified.

6. Add salt and cover to keep warm.

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Gastronomy

For the mushrooms 20 white mushrooms, peeled and quartered 50g butter, 100g chicken stock, 1 tbspoons mirin 2 tbspoons soy sauce, Salt, pepper Fresh tarragon, chopped 1. Put a medium pan over high heat. Add butter and when it starts bubbling add the mushrooms.

2. When the mushrooms start to sweat, deglaze with the mirin.

When the mirin is evaporated, add the chicken stock and let them cook until they become soft.

3. When the mushrooms are cooked, add soy sauce to glaze them.

Drizzle mushrooms with chopped tarragon and keep warm.

For the maki tartar 4 potato rings, sunflower oil for deep-frying 60g beef fillet, minced, 2g capers, minced 2g cornichon, minced, 1g shallot, minced 1 dot of wasabi, lemon juice Chives minced, 1 soft-boiled yolk Olive oil, Salt, freshly cracked white pepper 1. Place the potato rings in a small pot with cold water.

2. Bring the water to a boil, reduce to a simmer and let them cook for 10’ minutes or until cooked through.

3. Just before potatoes heat another pan with sunflower oil to 135C and deep-fry the potato rings until golden and crispy. Drain on kitchen paper and salt them.

4. In a bowl mix all the remaining ingredients together. Correct the taste with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and wasabi.

5. Fill each potato ring with some beef tartar. Reserve for plating.

For the beef fillet 800gr beef fillet Sunflower oil 1. Take the beef fillet and wrap it up tightly in clingfilm. Refrigerate for two hours to keep the shape.

2. When ready to serve, heat the oven at 200C and put an ovenproof sauté pan over high heat. When the pan is hot, add some oil and let pipe hot. Salt the fillet and sauté in all sizes for 10’ until nicely browned.

3. Place the pan with the fillet in the oven and cook for 15’ more.

4. Remove the fillet off the heat and let it rest for 10’ to allow carry over cooking before slicing.

5. At this point you can make a sauce if you want by deglazing the pan with some red wine, and once evaporated pour some chicken stock and let it reduce to a sauce-thick consistency.

6. Serve immediately and dress the meat with the sauce.

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Eleni Kefaloyiannis decants the mysteries of the noblest of wines and its ascent to its exalted position as the toast of choice for special occasions

W

hat unites Formula 1 and Winston Churchill, Mark Twain and James Bond, U2 and the Cannes Film Festival? Champagne of course, the most noble and luxurious drink in the world. This is the only wine which, already four centuries, is synonymous with celebration, luxury and power.

The story begins in the 17th century in the picturesque area of Champagne, in northern France, when a light rose, almost sparkling, wine from Pinot Noir grapes was first produced. The new wine was soon embraced by the aristocracy in London. Later, Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk, discovered that a second fermentation in the bottle can result in a permanent sparkling wine. But his biggest contribution to the production of champagne was the selection of the best matching varieties, the choice of blends and the improvement of grape cultivation. It was his idea to use bottles made of thick glass, that can stand the pressure and he was the first to produce white wine out of red varieties.

Until the 19th century the production of champagne amounted just a few thousands bottles. The commercial success came later, in the middle of the 19th century, when the oenologist of Veuve Clicquot, with the support of the restless Madame Cliquot, improved the champenoise method.To that triumph contributed also the Germans Krug, Bollinger, Roederer and Deutz.

Nowadays, champagne is produced by the same traditional method. After the first fermentation in big tanks, the champagne maker creates the blend.Three grape varieties can be used: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Harvests from different years can be mixed only in undated bottles of champagne. The wine is bottled with some added sugar and the bottles are stored head down and twisted every day so that the yeast sediment gathers near the neck of the bottle. Then the bottle is frozen and the sediment shoots out. After that the bottle is filled with a mixture of the initial wine and sugar.

But champagne is not unique only because of its long lasting, expensive production method. Champagne makers must respect at least 35 rules

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Gastronomy

during the cultivation of grapes including the size of vines, the distance between them, harvesting by hands, specific days of harvesting, etc. For this reason, only wines produced in the region of Champagne, following this specific process, can claim the name “champagne”, the rest is just sparkling wine.

“Too muchof anything is bad, only too much champagne is good” Mark Twain used to say and he was not the only admirer of the charming bubbles. The Russian Tzars used to drink Cristal by Roereder, Napoleon’s favourite was Jacquesson and Winston Churchill preferred a glass of Pol Roger. What Churchill told his soldiers before leaving for the French front was very revealing: “Gentlemen, it s not only for France we are fighting for, it s also for Champagne”. In fact, the German occupation had stopped all French exports to the UK, including of champagne – the spirit of joy and festivity.

Champagne in style It is the acidity that determines champagne’s quality, as well as the size of the bubbles. The bubbles should be small, emerging slowly one after another, creating fine rows of strings. This shows that the fermentation process was slow and the maturing in the bottle was perfect.

Depending on the amount of added sugar a champagne can be extra brut, brut, extra dry, sec and demi-sec.

Champagne can be served as an aperitif, but it can also be the main wine during a dinner.

It matches perfectly with shellfish and seafood, poultry and game with light sauces, and with soft cheeses like the Swiss Gruyere. Strong tastes of caviar, smoked cheese and fish need a vintage champagne, while fois gras and Far East kitchen go well with a demi-sec champagne. Champagne is the ideal companion of fruits, like strawberries, fine sweets and sorbets.

Champagne is a unique and precious wine that demands our respect.

Choose any of the following champagnes, that you can easily find in Greek cellars and let yourself feel like a movie star. May the bubbles be with you.

Taittinger Brut. Straw like color, fine bubbles and fruits aromas, especially peach, vanilla and white flowers. Harmonious in the mouth with hints of honey.

Luis Roederer Brut premiere. Pale yellow color, persistent bubbles and aromas of fruits, almonds and baked bread.

Serving champagne in a flute glass is not only an aesthetic requirement.

This glass also helps the emerging of the bubbles and keeps the aromas on the surface.

Krug Brut Grand Cuvee NV. This extraordinary champagne combines ten different harvests and 47 wines from 25 villages. Excellent aromas of brioche, nuts and coffee.

The glass should be filled a little more than the half so that there is enough space to reveal the aromas of the champagne.

Deutz Brut classic. A shining yellow colour and vivid bubbles. This champagne is very active, fresh and reveals a strong complex of aromas.

The right serving temperature is 6-9o C. The bottle should be kept in the refrigerator 3-4 hours before uncorking it, but not more and never in the freezing department because the taste might get funny.

Jacquesson Gran Vin 1996. A full-bodied champagne, from the House that was Napoleon’s favorite, with fine bubbles and the most wonderful aromas of honey and roses.

The bottle is opened with a soft plop like “the sigh of a naughty Duchess”, as they say in France. According to the simple rule: the bigger the bang of the bottle, the less the pleasure of drinking.

Bollinger Extra Brut. An excellent champagne from the House that still uses barrels for the fermentation.Well balanced, rich but with a fresh touch, with aromas of biscuits, fruits, honey and ginger. i

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@ photos by Costas Picadas

Why associate souvlaki with grease and grime? For the real Greek experience, get grill-chic at Souvlaki Bar, suggests Renee Pappas

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Gastronomy

S

ouvlaki Bar is a taverna featuring healthy fast-food in an attractive and inviting environment. Located on a small pedestrian street wedged between Monastiraki and the Ancient Agora, Souvlaki Bar aims to present traditional Greek street food with a new look.

iron and cement. The partners opted for the latter option because they felt the area itself dictated these materials. Their building had formerly been a lumber shop, while several iron makers are located just up the road.

The financial crisis has created a situation where people still want to go out to eat, but are more careful with how much they can spend. They want food that tastes good made with quality ingredients in an attractive and inviting setting.

The partners actively participated in the design process, requesting that the back wall be a series of images representing the tools and the ingredients used in their menus. Stencils of cows, pigs, butcher’s tools and utensils in black and white make a bold statement of what Souvlaki Bar is all about.They then commissioned Angelo B. Boloto to create a logo which features a meat cleaver, two souvlakia and a bar code. This logo appears on the paper used to wrap the pitas, the aprons of the cooks and waiters, as well as their business cards.

Souvlaki Bar is the brainchild of Dimitris Zimonopoulos and Michalis Economou, two forty-something businessmen who met in 1997 when they each bought McDonald’s franchises. Zimonopoulos has a background as an auditor and business consultant at Price Waterhouse, while Economou was an importer of high fashion from Italy. After running their individual franchises for over a decade they decided that they, and the market, needed a change.

They saw that their main competition was souvlaki and giros, but that the presentation and organization of most outlets was lacking in both quality and innovation. Their goal was to put together an entity which would provide the customer with healthy food, using quality ingredients in a modern setting.

They decided that they wanted to be in Monastiraki, an area which is associated with traditional Greek food.They also wanted to be in an area that was frequented by both Greeks and foreign tourists. The location between Ermou and Adrianou Street overlooks a small municipal park which is bordered by the Odeon Maria Callas and small neo-classical buildings.

After interviewing a number of design firms, they settled on the creative team of Fotini B. Daliani and Konstantinou Plaggeti, AIEN 1:1, which provided them with two contrasting proposals. One was a traditional souvlatzidiko, while the other was minimal, using materials such as wood,

They also came up with a new way of presenting their food. Taking inspiration from bars, they created small shots sfinakia of pitas which are served standing upright in a metal tray. Mustards and other sauces, which they make themselves, are served in a similar fashion.

The ingredients they use are from suppliers that use the HACCP system of quality as well as ISO standards set by the European Union. A number of their ingredients have been created for Souvlaki Bar exclusively.Their cooks are trained at Le Monde seminars and they themselves feel they are in a continuous learning process.

In keeping with their commitment to Greek traditional food, they serve Craft Athens Lager beer, while their wines are from the Evharis and Lafazanis wineries in Attica.The menu also features vegetable dishes and salads in addition to meat based dishes. Potatoes are hand cut and they use only extra virgin olive oil. Their reasonable prices are the same for in-house and take-out. i Souvlaki Bar, Adrianou and Thissio 15,Monastiraki. info@souvlakibar.gr

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Gastronomy

AiNikolas on Syngrou avenue promises the freshest catch, an innovative seafood platter and good-value-for-money

A

ptly named after the patron saint of the seas, AiNikolas on Syngrou Avenue, a new entrant in Athens’ culinary landscape, is determined to establish itself as the best seafood restaurant in the city. With Sicilian chef Pino Saccheri at the helm, AiNikolas hopes to redefine the way Greeks look at consuming the bounties of the Aegean.

Saccheri’s kitchen is run on a very simple philosophy: the freshest of ingredients (each fish is tagged with the date and location of the catch) and everything offered at the restaurant from bread to pastries is produced in-house from scratch. The chef, who has been living in Greece for 20 years and is clearly a devotee of the purity and simplicity of Mediterranean cuisine, adds, “We search for the most unique delicacies from all over Greece such as fish roe from Messolongi, seaweed from Gamvousa, sea urchins, shells and mussels from the Aegean, saffron from Kozani, extra virgin olive oil from Crete, split peas and caper from Santorini and a whole array of cheese from various regions.

- the feta and xinomizithra are from Chania and ooze of Cretan goodness.”

AiNikolas takes its guiding principle of producing everything internally a step further by not serving bottled water choosing instead to filter it through a sophisticated purification system and offering it to clients for free.

When I visited the restaurant, the menu on offer was quite unlike any I’d seen at a fish restaurant here. Typically, fish is grilled and most seafood options are either deep-fried or marinated. At AiNikolas, the choice ranges from a fish bouillabase to fresh ravioli stuffed with grouper or (my favourite) black ravioli drenched in squid ink and stuffed with salmon. Saccheri combines his Italian roots with obvious Mediterranean influences to create linguini with sardines or ebony risotto with squid and tomatoes, tagliolini with shrimps and rocket, tagliatelle with scallops and even couscous with fish! Finally, here is a seafood restaurant that promises to dare.

As is obvious through the photographs that accompany this review, interior designer Ismini Karali’s aesthetics highlight the majestic simplicity of seafood. Her slick, clean lines emphasize the high ceilings and natural light that filters through the two-storey building. Light oak panelling, textiles with earthy tones and reminders of the Aegean strewn all over lend an aura of quiet luxury. The restaurant’s blue velvet armchairs and white leather sofas complement the simplicity and elegance of the cuisine while the open plan kitchen encourages interaction between the chef and guests. The staff seem particularly knowledgeable of what’s on offer (our waiter could moonlight as a PR consultant) and the cellar boasts of some of the best known labels from Greek and international vineyards.

Literally a hop and a skip away from the Ledra Marriott and the Intercontinental, AiNikolas is great for business lunches and dinners and even offers free wifi access and (more brownie points) free parking! i AiNikolas, 156 Syngrou Avenue, www.ainikolas.com

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Insider guide

refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki

ARGENTINEAN ORO TORO Vouliagmeni

BAR - RESTAURANTS BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq CENTRAL Kolonaki ENTEKA Glyfada KITCHEN BAR Faliro FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni NIXON Kerameikos SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki

FISH RESTAURANTS 7 THALASSES Kolonaki CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus FISH BAR Glyfada ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus THALATTA Gazi TO VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS DOURAMBEIS Piraeus KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro PIL POUL JEROME SERRES Thissio TARTARE Glyfada VARDIS Kifissia

GOURMET ALATSI Hilton KUZINA Thissio TO ERGASTIRIO TOU BAXEVANI Syntagma PIG PONG Glyfada

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri EDODI Acropolis ELAEA BISTROT Acropolis FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia IRIDANUS Kerameikos KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia LIANA’S KITCHEN Glyfada MANI MANI Acropolis MARE MARINA Faliro PLATANOS Plaka PROSOPA Gazi RIFIFI Exarhia TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

INDIAN ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Maroussi

ITALIAN AGLIO OLIO ET PEPERONICINO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri DA LUCIANO Vouliagmeni DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SALOTTO Glyfada IL SEGRETO Voula MEZZA LUNA Vouliagmeni MULTI 22 Syntagma PIZZA POMMODORO Kolonaki SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE COO Kolonaki DOSIRAK syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia

60 insider athens | December - January 2011

KOSHER KOL TUV Monastiraki

LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia

MEDITERRANEAN AIOLI RESTAURANT Glyfada BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki CAFE TABAC Vouliagmeni DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki FATSIO Pangrati GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni GB CORNER Syntagma GRILL ROOM Vouliagmeni IDEAL RESTAURANTOmonia IRIDANUS Kerameikos KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati MEIDANIS Monastiraki OCHRE et BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki RATKA Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki TO POLITICO Glyfada ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka GALAXY BAR Hilton IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KILIZA Glyfada NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki THANASSIS Monastiraki

SPANISH MI SUENO Kolonaki PUERTA DE ESPANA Pangrati

TAVERNAS AMMOS Piraeus DIPORTO Psyrri FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni MAMACAS Gazi MARGARO Piraeus SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton ZAHOS Vouliagmeni

THAI ROYAL THAI Kifissia

WINE BARS MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi LA TIENDA Glyfada

CELLIER LE BISTROT Syntagma OINOPATHIA Maroussi

Westin Kids Club

MEZEDES AND OUZO ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka SOLON Piraeus

PUB RESTAURANTS BAYERN BIERHAUS MICROBREWERY Glyfada BEER ACADEMY glyfada BIER HAUS Vouliagmeni MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada

Register Now!

210.890.2000

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Insider guide SHOP Children Damigos Dimitrakopoulou 40 Tel: 210.922.0317 Toyshop with a wonderful selection, including wooden designs

Gifts

Greece is for Lovers Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

www.elaea.gr Greek chic coffee and tempting snacks beside the Acropolis Museum Gelato-Café Makriyanni 19-21 Tel: 210.923.8124 Homemade ice cream and waffles Mani Mani Falirou 10 Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches Takis' Bakery Misaralioutou 14 Tel: 210.923.0052 Locals' favourite; koulouria (sesame rings) & white chocolate biscuits

Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13 Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci Asimenia Bakery Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves Edodi Veikou 80 Tel: 210.921.3013 Fresh ingredients presented at your table, then cooked to perfection

Exarhia

EAT SHOP Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41 Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services Art Rat Records Zoodohou Pigis 48 Tel: 210.384.8001 Various vinyls

Medusa Tattoo Kallidromiou 85, Tel: 210.825.4593 Athens’ finest since 1995

Ilias Lalaounis museum

Elaea Bistrot Makriyanni 19-21 Tel: 210.921.2280

62 insider athens | December - January 2011

Vinyl Microstore Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more Yesterday's Bread Kallidromiou 87-89 Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

EAT Fasoli Emanouil Benaki 45 Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment Kavouras Themistokleous 64 Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music Salero Valtetsiou 51 Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia Skoufias Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere Yantes Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.

20 Euros per person

Greece is for Lovers

central Athens DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space Ginger Ale Themistokleous 74 Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere Vox Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

Gazi

Acropolis

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Butcher’s Shop Persefonis 19 Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Mamacas Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare Kitrino Podilato Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830 Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere Prosopa Meg.Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

central Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Almaz Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world Barouge Andronikou 4, Tel: 210.342.4994 A staple of Athenian nightlife Dirty Ginger Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails Grande Dame Persefonis 23 Tel: 210.341.6412 Chic bar serving elaborate champagne cocktails Nipiagogeio Elasidon & Kleanthous 8 Tel: 210.345.8534 For late-night dancing to funky electronic music Villa Mercedes Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing

Athinon Arena Pireos 166, Tel: 210.347.1111 The latest in live Greek music acts

Hiltonia Health

EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13 Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantine Restaurant Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist Milos Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours Vlassis Neandrou 15 Tel: 210.646.3060/210.725.6335 Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

DRINK Galaxy Bar Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Frattina Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids

& Wellness Club Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools, pilates studio, cardio classes and weighttraining

Kerameikos

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

CHILL

EAT

Kolonaki

DRINK

Live Greek Music

Hilton

Thalatta Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

SHOP

Iridanus Plataion 15 Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings Nixon Agisilaou 61B Tel: 210.346.2077 Burgers, a private cinema & an artsy crowd. Open for brunch on Sundays at noon

To Varoulko Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin starwinning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Jack in the Box Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more Marie Chantal Boutique Spefsippou 11 Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses Mouyer Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Fashion Atelier Loukia Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer Bespoke Athens Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518 Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors

Antiques Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world

Beauty & Cosmetics

Apivita Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

Children

Road of Tea

Milos Garden

Bambineria Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots

Hiltonia

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Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Carouzos Kanari 12 , Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other topflight brands Coach Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style Deux Hommes Kanari 18, , Tel: 210.361.4155 www.deuxhommes.gr Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns Diesel Skoufa 3, Tel: 210.362.2748 A treasure trove of denim, and all the hip accoutrements to go with it Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20 Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion DKNY Solonos 8 Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear Elina Lebessi Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world

central Athens

Ermenegildo Zegna Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits

Lacoste Solonos 5 Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Paul & Shark Anagnostopoulou 6 Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Free Shop Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Preview Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

Giorgio Armani Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars Hugo Boss Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe Incrocio Kanari 8 Tel: 210.362.7768 Menswear from Armani, Boss and Allen Edmonds brogues Kalogirou Patriarchou Ioakim 4 Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei Kathy Heyndels Patriarchou Ioakeim 21 Tel: 210.729.9966 Greek label selling barely-there gowns and basics with a twist

Observatery Attitudes

La Perla Spefsippou 14 Tel: 210.729.9720 Lingerie to flaunt

64 insider athens | December - January 2011

Bespoke Athens

Linea Piu Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel Luisa Skoufa 15 Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3 Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero Nike Tsakalof 34 Tel: 210.363.6188 Trainers, tracksuits and other swooshmarked sports paraphernalia Observatory Attitudes Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 www.attitudes.gr The ultimate fashion store

Puma Concept Kanari 17 Tel: 210.361.0516 International sportswear for all ages Rere Papa Skoufa 62 Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports Thalassa Collection Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses Vlassis Holevas Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167 Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Flowers Fleria Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697

Bespoke Athens

central Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Food & Wine Cava Anthidis Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers Kylix Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels Wine Garage Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Gadgets Octopus Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

Gifts Benaki Museum Gift Shop Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045 Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits

Home Christofle Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33 Tel: 210.723.7656 A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories

Fanourakis Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762 Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings Folli Follie Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux Liana Vourakis Pindarou 42 Tel: 210.361.7705 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here Lylian Syrigou Anagnostopoulou 12 Tel: 210.361.3350 www.liliansyrigou.gr Handcrafted bijoux and one-off designer pieces Magia Haritos 18, Tel: 210.724.0697 Ileana Makri's silver jewellery amid eclectic pieces from New York Oxette Skoufa 37 Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

EAT Bakeries & Patisseries Despina Patriarchou Ioakim 56 Tel: 210.729.5582 Reputed patisserie best known for its millefeuille

Coo Dinokratous 1 Tel: 210.725.4008 A Mykonos favourite now in Athens Dakos Tsakalof 6 Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties

Cake Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Filipou Xenokratous 19 Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Fresh Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

Frame St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous , Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens

Restaurants

Freud Oriental Xenokratous 21 Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting

7 Thalasses Omirou 11, Tel: 210.362.4825 Fresh fish with refined service Al Milanese Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning Altro Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food

Inbi Iraklitou 21 Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion Jackson Hall Milioni 4 Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings

Ozzi Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

Boschetto Evangelismos Park Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting

Kalamaki Kolonaki Ploutarhou 32 Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Van Cleef & Arpels Pindarou 42, Tel: 210.331.1107 The jeweller of the international jetset

Cafe Boheme Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Kiku Dimokritou 12 Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

Jewellery Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone

Om Indian Beauty Lounge Lykavittou 11, Kolonaki 210 362 5125

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Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Mi Sueno Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.6271 Tapas & other Spanish specialties Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view Ouzadiko Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo Papadakis Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens Pizza Pommodoro Alopekis 9, Tel: 210.729.6500 Great Italian specialties Prytaneion Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria Scala Vinoteca Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Square Sushi Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites

Tea

EAT

To Tsai Soutsou & Likavitou Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Ginger Dorileou 10-12 Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

CHILL

Ta Kioupia Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek classics with refined touches

OM Indian Beauty Lounge Lykavittou 11 Tel: 210.362.5125 Incredible massages and exotic treatments

TGI Friday’s Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq.

Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce!

La Prairie Day Spa Kanari 24, Tel: 210.360.1550 High-tech beauty treatments in a clinical setting

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Central Kolonaki Square Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a l aid-back atmosphere Ten Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town W Kanari 24 Tel: 697.270.0712 Private seating areas, speciality cocktails & exclusives events

66 insider athens | December - January 2011

Baraonda Tsoha 43 Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Antiques Darousos Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

Food & Wine Arapian Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats

Bahar Evripidou 31 Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Flower Tel: 210.643.2111 Fun, funky and affordable watering hole

Miran Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout

To Tsai

Balthazar Tsoha 27 Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

SHOP

Briki Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Cafés

Peros Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

DRINK

St’Astra Alexadras 10 Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

Monastiraki

Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Showroom Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Mavili Sq

L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

central Athens

Baraonda

central Athens

Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare Brachera Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory Café Avyssinias Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends Doris Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices Kol Tuv Normanou 4, Tel: 210.524.4049 The only kosher restaurant in Athens serving traditional shabat meals Meïdanis Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073 A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes Savvas Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

To Kouti Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

DRINK Orea Ellas Pandrosou 36, Tel: 210.321.3842 An eclectic cafe & bookshop

SHOP Department Stores Hondos Center Omonia Square Tel: 210.528.2800 Cosmetics, perfumes, luggage, clothing, & much, much more

EAT Ideal Restaurant Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor Bacaro Sophokleous 1 & Aristidou Tel: 210.321.1882, Lavish Italian and contemporary dishes Athinaikon Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

Sigalas-Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Food & wine

Beauty & Cosmetics

Mesogaia Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Korres Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

Cucina Povera Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

2 Mazi Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Fatsio Efroniou 5 Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Karavitis Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks

Electra Nikodimou 18-20 Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Magemenos Avlos Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings

Platanos Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens

Puerte de Espana Antinoros 42, Tel: 210.725.8666 Spanish cuisine & live music Spondi Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9 Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Spondi

Gifts

EAT

EAT

Plaka Bahar

SHOP

SHOP Antique stores Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

Scholarheio Tripodon 14 Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices Ydria Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

Psyrri

EAT

Thanassis Mitropoleos 69, Tel : 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

Omonia

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis Normanou 7, Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

Pangrati

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

SHOP Fashion Christoforos Kotentos Sachtouri 3 Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

Home Notoshome Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore

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Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT

Books

Cantuccio Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment

Eleftheroudakis Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Diporto Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava Kouzina Cine-Psirri Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music Nara Nara Karaiskaki 26, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing Ochre & Brown Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Soul Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves

Syntagma

Kauffman Stadiou 28, Tel: 210.322.2160 Mostly French books and small selection of English fiction

Department Stores Attica Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods Fokas Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children Stock House & Travel Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories

Fashion - Men’s

DRINK

SHOP Accessories Bag Stories Panepistimiou 41 Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

Antiques

Antiqua Vassilis Amalias 2-4 Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

Beauty & Cosmetics MAC Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

central Athens

Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Flowers Dromoloulouda Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece

Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

Home Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Food & Wine

Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Gofas Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Gadgets Public Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books

Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Gifts

68 insider athens | December - January 2011

Apriati Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Folli Follie Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Aristokratikon Karageorgi Servas 9 Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Argalios Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940

Jewellery

Zolotas pendant in gold with diamonds

Marathianakis Voukourestiou 21 Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

central Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Spiliopoulos Ermou 63 Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

EAT Cellier Le Bistrot Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines Dosirak Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Corean cuisine in the heart of Athens To Ergastirio to Baxevani Nikis 58 & Kydathynaion Tel: 210.322.2839 Traditional Greek cuisine combined with modern elements Far East Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

GB Corner Hotel Grand Bretagne Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop Multi 22 Ermou 116 & Leokoriou Tel: 210.331.6766 Italian fare served in a neoclassical house Noodle Bar Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix Parliament Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Explorer’s Lounge NJV Athens Plaza Syntagma Square, 210.335.2400 Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment T Palace King George Palace Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.322.2210 Sophisticated atmosphere for mingling & people-watching

CHILL GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments by E’SPA,Valmont & Algoane

The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping

Thissio

Shoes

Holmes Place Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400 Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

Furin Kazan Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

EAT Kirki Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break Kuzina Adrianou 9 Tel: 210.324.0133 Contemporary Greek cuisine

Pil Poul Jerome Serres Apostolou Pavlou 51 & Pavlopoulou Tel: 210.342.3665 Contemporary French cuisine with a Meditarranean twist

Paul Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Boutique Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Club Eat See

Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

Aladdin on Ice at the Taekwondo Auditorium Scooby Doo at the Badminton Theatre Spondi, 2 star Michelin restaurant in Pangrati Cibus for Greek cuisine and Acropolis view in the Nat.Gardens Varoulko Michelin star with gourmet fish cuisine in Gazi Papadakis good island cuisine in Kolonaki Vanilla Club at Kanari 24 Villa Mercedes at Andronicou & Zafeiri 11, Rouf Messiah Rebirth at Karneadou 25 in Kolonaki Baraonda, Tsocha 43, Ambelokoipi

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Insider guide Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends Plous Podilatou Ak. Koumoundourou 42 Tel: 210.413.7910 Sumptuous seafood & mouthwatering deserts on the waterfront Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour Vassilenas Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere Zefyros Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

DRINK Iguana Ak. Dilaveri 15, Tel: 210.407.8861 Playing disco & techno tracks until 6am Istioploikos Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Faliro

EAT

EAT

Jewellery

Il Tinello Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking

ZerTeo Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Southern Athens

Food & Wine

Iskandar Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian cuisine

All about Whisky Vas. Georgiou B' 10 Tel: 210.968.1191, Specialty shop with a large selection of single malts, books, & anything to do with whisky

Kitchen Bar Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Le Petit Sommelier Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

EAT

DRINK Big Apple South Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere

Ache Kypriou 57, Tel: 210.894.2949 International cuisine & delectable deserts Aioli Restaurant Artemidos 9, Tel: 210.894.0181 Mediterranean cuisine with an excellent “secret” seafood sauce

Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Amigos Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting

Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine

Glyfada

Piraeus

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

SHOP Books Eleftheroudakis Lazaraki 27, Tel: 210.325.8440 Book superstore with a large selection of English titles

Fashion

Attitudes Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 www.attitudes.gr The ultimate fashion store Enny di Monaco Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers Ensayar Donna Kyprou 55, Esperidon Square Tel: 210.894.3034 Top lines from leading designers with an English touch

70 insider athens | December - January 2011

Beer Academy N. Zerva 14, Tel: 210.898.0121 International cuisine in a cozy setting Beirut Saki Karayiorya 13, Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment Bereket Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor

Far East Lazaraki 61, Tel: 210.894.0500 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings Kiliza Konstantinopoleos 13 Tel: 210.894.4648 Delicious kebabs & decadent deserts La Casa Di Giorgino Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven La pêche Posidonos 58 Tel: 210.894.1620 Creative seafood dishes combining Greek & French techniques Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine Vincenzo Giannitsopoulou 1 Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Babae Posidonos 88, Tel: 210.894.1629 Beachfront dancing all night long

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur Cosi Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture Nest Café Bar Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors Seiza Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design The House Project Posidonos 58A, Tel: 210.898.3577 A beach house turned lounge with all the amenities of a home.

Live Music

Voula

Thalassa People's Stage Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.2979 Live Greek acts in a club atmosphere attracting a young crowd

EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78 Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste

Dvlcis in Fvndo Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian Genovese Vas. Pavlou 99, Tel: 210.895.8400 Italian eats al fresco Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Vari Sports Club Vari-Koropiou & Kalamatos 1 Tel: 210.899.0048 www.varisportsclub.com

EAT Café Tabac Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food Da Luciano Posidonos 17 Tel: 210.896.2217 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood Oro Toro Varis-Koropiou 73, Tel: 210.899.4514 A taste of Argentinian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

Al Fresco The Westin, 40, Tel: 210.890.1709, Enjoy a romantic meal of creative Italian cuisine Grill Room Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1794 Mediterranean & seafood flavours on a breathtaking veranda, in the Astir complex Ithaki Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals Maistrali Apollonos 28 Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

En Plo Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay Island 27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3809 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf Sofa Bar The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

CHILL Arion Spa Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000 Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100

The concierge of the Arion, A Luxury collection Resort & Spa in Vouliagmeni recommends:

Sip

Cafes

CHILL

DRINK

Mezza Luna Orpheos 2 Tel: 210.967.1046 Chic Italian restaurant

Zen Moorings Great for coffee or a meal by megayachts in the Vouliagmeni marina En Plo Meeting place for a coffee, meal or drink in Vouliagmeni bay Matsuhisa Athens Pre-dinner cocktails to an assortment of sushi for a true omakase experience

Do Eat

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

Il Segreto Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace

Vouliagmeni

Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Southern Athens

Ithaki Stunning view, live piano music and chef Clessienne’s sea-inspired cuisine Lambros Combines waterfront freshness and the casual atmosphere of a traditional Greek fish tavern.

Attica Mall One-stop mall in the heart of the city-centre Golden Hall 41.000 sq meters of shopping therapy hosting 131 fashion brands Scuba diving at Athina Diving a dive resort on the beach at the 38km on the Athens-Sounio road Sailing to Aegina just 45 minutes by motor boat for an island experience

Did you know: .… the Lake of Vouliagmeni is about 50 cms above sea level and is replenished by the hot springs beneath it? A small freshwater lake fed by underground currents seeping through the mass of Mount Hymmetus, it maintains a constant 24 degrees celsius temperature all year long and functions as a year-round spa.

insider athens | December - January

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Insider guide SHOP Beauty & Cosmetics Nyhi-Nyhi Kifissias 230 Tel: 210.623.2824 Stop by for a quick mani-pedi

Fashion

21 Kifissia Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport parafernelia Gap Kifissias 328, , Tel: 210.623.1571 Casual American fashion Vassilis Zoulias Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

Food & Wine Aristokratikon Argyropoulou 8, , Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies Il Salumaio di Montena Poleone Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Milan based company selling high quality produce Sorpresa Italiana Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen Varsos Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

EAT Acqua Azzurra Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals Apla 135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes

Meat Me HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna Nargile Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambiance O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices Piazza Mela Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes Prytaneion Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Barceloneta Kifissias 267, Tel: 210.801.3448 Spanish cuisine in a fun atmosphere

Royal Thai Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Berdema Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor

Salumaio di Atene Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous deserts

Common Secret Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Semiramis Restaurant Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Dos Hermanos Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world Golden Phoenix Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters Ichthyes Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

The Mall

Northern Athens

Kastelorizo Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

72 insider athens | December - January 2011

Shogun Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning Telemachos Barbeque Club Fragkopoulou 22 Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection Tike Harilaou Trikoupi 27 Tel: 210.808.4418, Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes Vardis Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece

DRINK Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails

Divine Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions Menta CafĂŠ Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Maroussi

Kifissia

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

SHOP Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

EAT Aneton Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s El Taco Bueno Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting Jaipur Palace Ag. Konstantinou & Themidos Tel: 210.805.2762 Indian cuisine and fine wines Leptes Gefseis Fine French food at affordable prices Pindou 22, Pefki, Tel: 210.802.4817 Mauzac Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this cafĂŠ, bar, restaurant a must Oinopathia Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375 Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine Pausa Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

insider athens | December - January

2011

73

partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT HOTEL

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

METROPOLITAN

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.Tel: 210.890.2000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115.Tel: 210.930.0000

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25. Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.928.0100

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000

ATHENS LIFE GALLERY

GRANDE BRETAGNE

NJV athens plaza

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space.

New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93.Tel:210.920.6000

Where modern architecture finds its expression among Zen gardens and ethnic elements.

30 ultra-modern rooms and suites. Avenue 103 restaurant trendy Pisco Sour Bar. Two pools, full-service Ananea Spa. Thisseos 103, Ekali.

Tel: 210.626.0400. www.bluegr.com Crowne plaza

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400 NOVOTEL

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza.Tel: 210.921.5353

Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers.

Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50.

Tel: 210.727.8000, www.cpathens.com

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis.

Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.Tel: 210.337.0000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq.Tel: 210.333.0000

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.891.1100

ATHENS HILTON

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-ofthe art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000, www.hiathens.com

The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700 www..novotel.com Royal Olympic

Holiday Suites

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000, www.holiday-suites.com KEFALARI SUITES

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities. Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210 9288400, www.royalolympic.com SEMIRAMIS

DIVANI CARAVEL

508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views.Vas. Sofias 46.Tel: 210.728.1000

situated close to major tourist attractions with , rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000

74 insider athens | December - January 2011

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows.

Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.Tel: 210.628.4400

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

TwentyOne

virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin's soothing aesthetic

Herodion

THE ROMANOS

Brand-new airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities.Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata.Tel: 210.354.4000

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521. www.twentyone.gr

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

A CATEGORY

Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832 The Romanos Hotel boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with private infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.

HOTEL ELECTRA

AVA HOTEL & SUITES

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon.

Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki.Tel: 210.729.0711 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Santorini

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka.

Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka. Tel: 210.325.9000, www.avahotel.gr

Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000 PERISCOPE HOTEL

BEST WESTERN ESPERIA PALACE HOTEL

In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia.Tel. 22860 81786 VEDEMA, SANTORINI

In the heart of the commercial and historic centre of Athens. The restaurant Athinaios, serves gastronomic delights in an elegant setting. Stadiou 22. Tel: 21­­­­­0.323.8001

Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.7200, www.periscope.gr Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori.Tel. 22860 81 796

Philippos

CORAL HOTEL

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests.

Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11,Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.892.9000. ww.themargi.gr THE WESTIN ATHENS

The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441 Fresh Hotel

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni.Tel: 210.922.3611-4

COSTA NAVARINO THE WESTIN RESORT

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.Tel: 210.890.2000

MYSTIQUE SANTORINI

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki. Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous. Tel: 210.524.8511-6.

!

Would you like TO see your hotel LISTED here?

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort's low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the

CONTACT US at: ads@insider-magazine.gr

insider athens | December - January

2011

75

Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541

AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086

COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964

COURIER SERVICES

ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AZERBAiJAN Skoufa 10.

Tel: 210.363.2721 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4.

Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 26. Tel: 210.725.2574 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei.

Tel: 210.685.5550

Embassies

Business services

useful information

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel:Â 210.778.3698 www.executiveservices.gr

CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10.

Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4.

Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5.

Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3.

Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25.

Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16.

Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7.

Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.4161 Kazakhstan Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765

REAL ESTATE FOR RENT ATHENS

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76 insider athens | December - January 2011

D. Areopagitou pedestrian street next to the Acropolis, in listed art deco building, 3rd floor apartment 210sq.m. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 guest bathroom, large kitchen, large reception, dining room, unique view, high quality furniture available. Call owner: 0030 6945373066, olvia@hol.gr

KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49.

Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38.

Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.729.4780 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7. Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6.

Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Marathonodromon 71, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10.

Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21.

Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7.

Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2.

Tel: 210.723.0364-6

Emergencies

TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57.

Tel: 210.677.5122 THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8.

Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei.

Tel: 210.680.0230 UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1.

Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91.

Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

Weather Attica, Tel: 148 www.hnms.gr Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel) Tel: 210 72 89 640

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1,Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus.

Tel: 210.451.9411-9

PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING)

Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 Paediatric A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Hospitals Tel: 210.747.2777 EUROCLINIC PAEDON Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia.

Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 Tel: 210.612.5001-2 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA heart & vascular centrE HOSPITAL E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. FSCAI Interventional cardiologist.

Tel: 210.746.7000 Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU Tel:210.897.6276. www.heartline.gr HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

Private Hospitals Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.). Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El.Venizelou 162, Kallithea. Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 www.ygeia.gr

Newspapers

The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini, with a weekly newspaper Athens Plus The local Athens News comes out Fridays.

Radio Antenna 97.2 FM news at 8.25am, Flash Radio 96.0 FM 8.55am, 3pm and 8pm daily.

ERA public radio 91.6 FM for bulletins at 5am and 9am, full news coverage at 9.30pm.

Athens International Radio 104.4 FM Offers news bulletins in 13 languages, as well as interviews, music and current affairs programmes.

SYLVAIN GATEAUD Osteopath (France, UK) MKDE- C0 ( France) HP (Germany).

Energy management.

Karaiskaki 42, Pallini.

Tel: 210 60 33 622 M. 6937 20 44 72 sylvain.gateaud@hotmail.co.uk www.whyosteopathy.com

Money

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202. www.eydap.gr

Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177 ww.kep.gov.gr

General and cranial osteopathy

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Phone Post

Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210 523 9939 www.dei.gr

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr , Tel: 210 99 89 000

IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El.Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000

English media

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr

Health

Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

!

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code. To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks

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Art galleries

Tel: 210.322.9705

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki Tel: 210.721.9744 B&M Theoharakis

Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music

Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio Tel: 210.331.7527 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma Tel: 210.361.2050 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio Tel: 210.346.1981 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 www. yakas.com Kalfayan gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573 ww.gallerykourd.gr Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki Tel: 210.323.8757 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati Tel: 210.729.7644 Zoumboulaki Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulaki Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 7, Syntagma Tel: 210.363.4454

Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos.

Tel: 210.348.0000.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city.

Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street.

Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for e1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden.

Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory.

Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries.

Irodou Attikou Street.

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Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum e3.50.

Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves.

The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour.

Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch.

Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. e2.00.

Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues Tel: 210.922.6330.

Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed.

Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus.

Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos.

Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502 www.spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka Tel: 210.368.9502 www.history-museum.uoa.gr

Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000. www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos.

Tel: 210.325.1311 www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027.

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. www. hellenic-cosmos.gr

Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka.

Tel: 210.323.4678. www.frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4.

Tel: 210.722.8321. www.cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio.

Tel: 210-346.1981. www.herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni.

Tel: 210.922.7260. www.lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. www.jewishmuseum.gr Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953. www.nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043 www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Just for kids

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219

Museums

ORGANISED TOURS

Attractions & Sites

see & do

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis 210.425.6999, www.allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka.

Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, www.gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka.

Tel: 210.322.9031.

Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621 www.childrensartmuseum.gr U Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini Tel: 210.603.0093, www.summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

getting around

Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around

LIMOUSINES

Public transport

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120 Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (e1) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 6e.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport To and from Syntagma Square (bus X95, 70 min. approx.), Ethniki Amyna metro station (bus X94, 50 min. approx.) and Piraeus (bus X96, 90 min. approx.). Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board.

Buses leave every 10-15 minutes.

Fare is e3.20 and the ticket is valid for 24 hours on buses, trolleys and metro. For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro.gr.

For info on trains see www. proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002 www.ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (Egaleo-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

tram Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

TAXIS from the airport cost about e20 to Syntagma Square, e25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of e1 added to the meter.

Sea ports Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries

Airport

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr.

Car rental

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 Austrian Tel: 210.960.1244 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Gulf Air Tel: 210.322.0851 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 KLM Tel: 210.998.0333 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 SAS Tel: 210.353.0373 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2

Ferries Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700 www.superfast.com Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel:801 11 75 000

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus.

Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus.

Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Alimou & Poseidonos, Alimos.

Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula.

Tel: 210.895.2212, 210.895.6733 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki.

Tel: 210.985.0122-8

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130

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athens citysales mappoints Central Athens

See i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street

NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M. Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V. Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road AthensLamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E. Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street

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PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag. Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA : Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street

SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA : Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO : NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS : Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag.Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis : 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square

city map

Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications

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KA L E I DOS COP E

In Greece, the celebrations begin long before the traditional holidays of Christmas and Epiphany with the Orthodox calendar peppered with namedays in the lead-up to the New Year and beyond. The festive season in Greece is: (1) mounds of kourabiedes and (2) melamakarona, (3) christopsomo holy bread, (4) festive lights in the shape of boats in honour of (5) St. Nicholas, patron saint of the seas at street squares and windowpanes, (6) kids singing kalanda while playing the trigona, (7) the custom of smashing a pomegranate on New Year’s Day for good luck, (8) youngsters diving into the sea to retrieve the cross flung into the sea by the local priest and (9) vassilopita cuttings at home and work.

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84 insider athens | November 2010