Insider 96

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

July - August 2011 Year 9. Issue 96 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

ATHENS

Sun, Sea and Kefi The New Hotel / Island Art / Mikrolimano’s enduring allure / Pirates of the Aegean Summer recipes / Cocktails / City Pools / Say Opa Plus: Interview with Canadian Ambassador, Renata Wielgosz / Tribute to Paddy Leigh Fermor / Artist Lynda Benglis / Jeweller to the stars, Theodoros PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND 2011 MORE insider athens | July-August 1

2 insider athens | July-August 2011

Sudha Nair-Iliades

This is not going to be a resumé of the year that was (we’re in Greece after all, and the year is measured from summer to summer). This is an ode to the Greek summer. The sensory celebration we bask in, crisis or no crisis. It costs nothing and is yet priceless. It can’t be loaned or taxed. It can be found in the little coves that Greece has so generously been blessed with, in a juicy, blood-red slice of karpouzi, that laiki sellers will offer you even if you don’t buy off them, in savouring a languorous taverna meal, surrounded by a noisy parea to much clinking of glasses. The Greek summer is an invitation to plunge into a more humane pace of life, of appreciating simpler pleasures, and of not taking oneself too seriously.

publisher’s note Paddy Leigh Fermor, for one, knew and passionately loved that about Greece and adored that impish Greek desire to enjoy life at all cost, that ‘kefi’ which more reserved societies would have a tough time getting their heads around. A summer evening here could end up in any number of different ways - at an open-air cinema watching old classics, at a cafe sipping a post-dinner frappe or participating uninhibitedly in a solo hasapiko in front of complete strangers.

If you’re one of those who’d like to set goals for the summer, try this. Acquire some basic Greek skills. Learn to play a mean game of tavli, or at least learn the basic rules of biriba. Learn to make a half decent elliniko with kaimaki (I’m told the secret lies in the stirring), or read a good book on Greece - Patricia Storace’s Dinner with Persephone and Mani and Roumeli by Paddy Leigh Fermor, whose writing was described as ‘well suited to the subject of Greece, that the beautiful cragginess and almost blinding brilliance of his prose correspond particularly to that country’s rugged, dazzled landscapes’ - come to mind.

At Insider, we’ll be going off on holiday, having launched a new edition - our first Mandarin magazine reaching out to up-scale tourists visiting from China. More readers to share the Greek summer with, in a different tongue.

Kalo kalokairi!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Art Director Michel Devanakis

Contributors in this Issue Stephanie Bailey, Anelia Fikiina, Giorgos Frantzeskakis, Louisa Moschou, Theresa O’Driscoll, Mike Sweet

Client Relations Eleni Setta, Anelia Fikiina

Web Coordinator Eleni Setta

Art Editor Stephanie Bailey

Interns Cicily Collazo, Kevin Muratore

Photos Angelos Giotopoulos, Silvena Ivanova, Kostas Bekas, Papadakis, Haris Akriviadis

Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos

info@insider-magazine.gr www.insider-magazine.gr www.bonjour-athenes.com

Web Design www.studiozip.com

Prepress, Montage and Printing Dias

Athens Insider is published monthly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by:

Publisher - Editor Sudha Nair-Iliades

Distribution Hellenic Distribution Agency Subscriptions * Athens Insider - 10 issues a year in Greece € 40, Abroad € 80 * Bonjour Athènes - 5 issues a year in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 * Both magazines in Greece € 60, Abroad € 120 Prices include VAT and postage.

Insider Publications Ltd. located at Markou Botsari 16 A 117 41 Athens, Greece.

Telephone 210.729.8634, 210721.3450 Fax 210.729.8635.

Tax No. 099747145.

Email: info@insider-magazine.gr Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher.

Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain.

Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.

Athens Insider: Monthly Publication ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 6548

insider athens | July-August 2011

3

Giorgos Frantzeskakis

Giorgos Frantzeskakis is a freelance travel journalist. He has published stories about Greeks and their homeland in newspapers and magazines (both domestic and abroad, like Conde Nast Traveller and National Geographic) and has participated in the completion of the voyager’s encyclopedia for Greece, “Ανακαλύψτε την Ελλάδα» (23 volumes, 2006 -2009). He is currently roaming the streets of Athens, looking for a Pulitzer opportunity, a good story about people, places and their ideas on how this city is being molded into a contemporary metropolis

Anelia was born and raised in Sofia and has lived and studied in Lyon, Budapest, Madrid and Glasgow before she moved to Athens in September 2010. Fluent in six languages, Anelia is passionate about international affairs and about discovering new cultures. In her spare time, she is an avid hiker.

Mike Sweet

A documentary producer for the BBC Television in the 1990s, Mike worked in broadcasting in South Asia before relocating to Australia in 2002, where he established his TV production business. A correspondent for the English language edition of Australia’s largest circulation Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos, Mike combines his writing with producing independent documentary films. Having lived in Athens since 2007, Mike is now the contributing editor for Opa, a recently launched magazine in Australia

Stephanie is a freelance writer, artist and teacher. Born in Hong Kong, she studied Classical Civilization and English Literature before completing a foundation diploma in Art & Design in London. She has contributed to Adbusters, ArtPapers, Athens News and Odyssey, and is a music correspondent for Spinearth.tv.

Michael Devanakis

4 insider athens | July-August 2011

Stephanie Bailey

Award-winning graphic designer, fluent in English French and Greek, Michel moved to Athens in 1997 to create Studio ZIP, after a long and interesting career in France and Canada. His background in Marketing (Paris 1983), is a major asset in his creative approach. He provides his services both in Greece and abroad. Art Director of Insider and Bonjour Athènes for a year, Michel has also designed the new website for Insider Publications. Passionate about art, and painter in his ‘rare’ spare time, you can find out more about him on his website: www.studiozip.com

Born in Australia, Angelos is currently based in Europe working as a freelance photographer. His photographs and texts have been published in magazines such as Italy’s Travel Panorama, Australian Traveller and Florida International Magazine in America, as well as in various Greek publications.

Silvena Ivanova

Anelia Fikiina

Angelos Giotopoulos

Silvena was born and raised in Sofia and has lived and worked across Europe in Paris, Milan, Madrid, Glasgow and now, Athens. With a Masters degree in Marketing and Communications, Silvena’s true passion is photography. She enjoys travelling and exploring different cultures that she captures expertly through her lens.

contents 12 18 24

Features

Departments

The unfolding legacy of Lynda Benglis

10 Lynda Benglis’ retrospective at the New Museum in New York

Small port, big charm 30 Insider explores Mikrolimano, Piraeus’ most beguiling little harbour.

Out with the old in with the New 12 A contemplation of the recently opened New Hotel in Athens

Pirates of the Aegean 36 A photo essay on life aboard an 18th century pirate ship

Everyone say OPA! 16 Mike Sweet on a new magazine that aims to break the mould of Greek publishing in Australia Paddy Leigh Fermor A tribute to a real-life hero turned travel writer

18

Delphic dreams, Olympic ideals 20 Ambassador Renata Wielgosz of Canada on the milestones of her four incredible years in Greece Little Greek pleasures 24 Eleni Palivos, President of the AWOG shares her little secrets about Athens Gems and stones

26 Theodoros Savopoulos’ destiny into the world of jewellery

Art on the islands 40 As art migrates to the islands, Insider picks a few highlights on the summer arts calendar Taking haute cuisine to new heights Chef Jean-Charles Métayer on drawing Athenians to the Première for a gourmet experience

Arts and Events Design

12

Media

16

Tribute

18

Diplomacy Kosmika

20

My Athens 50

Delights of the ocean 52 Refreshing summer recipes from Hilton’s chef George Manikis Cocktails with attitude 54 The Sofa Bar offers a taste of summer in a long chilled glass Green Revolution 56 Yantes, an organic oasis in gritty Exarchia

4

Fashion

22 24

26

City scope

30

Adventure

36

Agora

46

Gastronomy

50

Restaurant Index 58 Area-wise listings 60 Kaleidoscope

80

26 30 36 52 54 Cover picture: © Parpalea Catalin | Dreamstime.com

insider athens | July-August 2011

5

Arts & events

1

2

13

until

About art

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Bernier Eliades

Peiraios 260

Pleasure 1 Seven visual artists,Yannis Malegiannakis, Nikos Papadopoulos, Tereza Papamichali, Lila Polenaki, Theo Prodromidis, Daphni Rokou,Vassileia Stylianidou present and critically review the “masks” of pleasure and the boundaries between its essential meaning and the theatricality that sometimes accompanies its manifestations.

At the same time, drawing from humans’ relation to nature and the notion of collectivity within a societal context, the artists juxtapose their counter-suggestions regarding pleasure’s fake existence. The associations and interrelations created among the presented works, raise important issues regarding enjoyment and the subjective dimension of pleasure. www.about-art.gr

The Bolshoi Symphonic Orchestra: Works by Rachmaninoff, Dvorák Sergei Rachmaninoff ’s Third Piano Concerto is a musical as well as a technical challenge for the performer. In this case, the names involved offer the requisite guarantee of quality: the internationally celebrated Russian pianist, Denis Matsuev, playing with his country’s oldest orchestral ensemble, the Bolshoi Theatre Orchestra, under its principal conductor, Vassily Sinaisky. The programme also features Antonín Dvorák’s Eighth Symphony, a cheerful work inspired by the popular music of Bohemia.

Group exhibition The Bernier Eliades gallery presents a group exhibition combining important works of renowned artists Tony Cragg, Jannis Kounelis, and William Kentridge, as part of the project “The Urethra Postcard Pictures” by Gilbert and George, as well as sculptures of young artists Hannah Greely, Marnie Weber and Dionisis Kavallieratos. www.bernier-eliades.gr

Aernout Mik: Pulverous 2 Pulverous (2003), explores the extremes of a languid and dexterous destruction. It all looks like a stock taking which has literally slid out of control.

Following the motion of the camera, we observe people sitting with their legs spread out, like children on the sand, destroying meticulously packed foodstuff. It is a sort of game with no pleasure. Ignoring moral judgements about waste, and focusing on the abuse of food, the contributors of this spectacle of deconstruction get absorbed in the release of energy as an end in itself. www. damma.gr

until

09 july

6 insider athens | July-August 2011

july

15 july

0120 june

july

On the town For location details see listings p70

3

4

23 09

until until

julyapril

4

28

until

july

5

5

30 16

until until

julyapril

17

until

april

Eleni Koroneou Gallery

A-M-P Gallery

The Breeder Gallery

Astrolavos Gallery

8 artists 3 “8 Artists” is a group exhibition with works from established artists from Europe, the United States and Japan. Included in the exhibition are: Keith Coventry, Günther Förg, Isa Genzken, Sergei Jensen, Martin Kippenberger, Michel Majerus, Hiroshi Sugito and Christopher Wool. Their work shows a common approach, which is more conceptual and driven by the same process using traditional and non-traditional methods to explore the many variations of abstract art. www.koroneougallery.com

Frank Haines/Christopher Garrett: The Sound of Silence AMP presents two solo shows

by New York based Frank Haines and Los Angeles based Christopher Garrett. From spooky performances with vaudevillian flair to wall works and sculptures heaped with alchemical accumulations, Frank Haines spins dark meaning out of a mystical domestic geometry. In his exhibition at AMP, Christopher Garrett will incorporate sculptures, drawings, and grave-rubbings. Employing the figure of the romantic outsider he creates elusive, open-ended narratives that seem to gently undermine the morbid symbolism, and individualistic fatalism typically associated with such characters. www.a-m-p.gr

Looking forward – group exhibition 4 The Breeder presents six young Greek artists. Dafni Barbageorgopoulou’s sculptures explore the interrelationship of poetry with mathematics.Vassilis H’s installations combine sculpture with painting and photography. HOPE, a street artist who stood out with his interventions on the streets of Athens.

Maria Kachramanoglou’s work with religious, historical and personal references.Yorgos Stamkopoulos uses airbrush to create paintings that stand out for the fluorescent coloration.

Catherine Vafias’s photographic approach transcends the conventional representation with a kaleidoscopic surreal dimension. www.thebreedersystem.com

2010-2011 Exclusives 5 Astrolavos gallery presents the group exhibition 2010-2011 Exclusives – a small retrospective report of the season, including some important projects as well as newer works.

Creations of different styles and genres from 27 different artists, younger and established, will be shown. Artists exhibit paintings, photography and constructions.

Some of the participants in the group presentation are: Angeletou Maddalena, Nick Vandoros, George Golfinos, Ellie Griva, Irene Iliakopoulos, Evridiki Callimachus, George Lazongas, Anthony Larios, John Lasithiotakis, Maria Letsios, Maria Maroudi and many others. www.astrolavos.gr

insider athens | July-August 2011

7

Arts & events

6

until

7

8

29

31

until

august

july

Benaki Museum Arrrgh!! Monsters in Fashion 6, 7 The exhibition, organised by the French Institute and Atopos, explores the growing influence of Contemporary Character Design within the field of Fashion through the experimental creations by emerging and established fashion designers.Whether human or supernatural, real or mythical, zoomorphic or even abstract, the designers’ outstanding creations provide renewed views on fashion and redefine our perceptions on visual culture.

Participating artists & designers include Walter van Beirendonck, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Issey Miyake, Cassette Playa, Charlie Le Mindu, Christophe Coppens, Andrea Ayala Closa, Lucy & Bart and others. www.benaki.gr, www.atopos.gr

8 insider athens | July-August 2011

Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art Damien Hirst: New Religion The exhibition is Damien Hirst’s first solo presentation in Greece and offers the opportunity of coming into contact with the work of the most famous of the generation of the Young British Artists or YBAs. «New Religion» comprises silkscreen prints, sculptures, constructions and paintings to complete a total installation which references the atmosphere of a chapel. Making use of religious imagery, titles and associations, and denaturing them through art, in a cold and clinical environment, the artist bridges the theoretical gap between science and religion, rephrasing questions regarding the way the two are perceived. www.mmca.org.gr

Frissiras Museum

National Gallery

Black&White When contemporary art seems to consist mostly of colour, graphic design, and illustration, and its aesthetics have penetrated the collective visual subconsciousness, organizing an exhibition like ‘Black and White’ which emphasizes on visual economy, artistic self control and expressional nudity, seems an extremely risky, almost utopic gesture. However, a closer look is enough to justify the noble ambitions that underlie this seemingly out-ofplace-and-time venture; faith in the power of an alternative, but at the same time primal visual expression, which eludes the fascinations of colour thanks to the dynamic simplicity of form and the allure of the essential. www.frissirasmuseum.com

A Tribute to Yannis Moralis 9 A year after the death of the great artist, the National Gallery pays a tribute to Yannis Moralis through a meaningful overview of the donation of 113 works made by the artist himself. Six productive decades, from 1930 to the mid-1980s are represented in the art works - paintings, drawings and engravings. Committed to figurative painting and a lover of moderation,Yannis Moralis assimilated in his own way the lessons of modernism, combining the exciting developments of modernism with a contemporary reading of tradition; the successor of the Generation of the Thirties, the artist is indeed a true 20th-century classic. www.nationalgallery.gr

On the town

9

10

10

until

september

Zoumboulakis Gallery Summer 2011 Zoumboulakis galleries welcomes the summer with a group exhibition «Summer 2011». The exhibition will show large and small scale works of artists who have been regularly presented in the gallery. Among them is Danae Stratos whose installation «Breathing Circle», (2008) will be on display as will previously exposed projects and smaller works from different artists at attractive prices. www.zoumboulakis.gr

18

until

september

EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Apostolos Georgiou, Solo exhibition 9 The paintings of Apostolos Georgiou, one of the greatest Greek artists of the so-called generation of the 80s, are anthropocentric and narrative, drawing its subjects from everyday life. Family feuds, personal anxieties and deadlocks are rendered with subtle humour, sarcasm and tenderness, highlighting the existential nature of the work of Apostolos and his basic concerns about identity, gender and human relations. www.emst.gr

11

25

until

september

30

until

september

Herakleidon Museum

Xippas Gallery

Modern Look - Ancient Civilizations 10 This summer the Herakleidon museum, in cooperation with the Allard Pierson Museum and Institute of Fine Arts in Amsterdam present an exhibition inspired by ancient Mediterranean culture. All the works are from contemporary artists residing in the Netherlands.

The artists were invited to create a piece from a linoleum engraving inspired by the ancient finds of the Allard Pierson Museum. The Herakleidon museum also invited Greek artists Apostolis Zolotakis and Eleni Tzatzalou to contribute to the exhibition with installations inspired by the same subject. www.herakleidon.com

George Eliades 11 Xippas gallery inaugurates its new art space in Kolonaki, Patriarchou Ioakim 53, with the first solo exhibition in Athens of artist George Eliades.

The artist exercises full control over his compositions by attributing a key role to simple forms of our natural environment – buildings, simple every day objects - undisturbed on the canvas while maintaining their autonomy or involved in actions, violently interrupted to continue outside the frame, referring to a different spacetime reality and pushing us to redefine the way we perceive life and things around us. www.xippas.com

insider athens | July-August 2011

9

Arts & events

12

until

30 s e pt e m be r

until

10 o c to b e r

13

14

31

until

until

october

Rebecca Camhi gallery

Museum of Cycladic Art

Museum of Cycladic Art

Young Greek Artists 12 Rebecca Camhi gallery presents a group show of four young Greek artists. Alexia Karavela depicts images of strangers, based on photographs found randomly, using markers and tippex. Andreas Ragnar Kasapis’ latest work is based on the composition of painting and photography and is mostly about memory and trauma.

Chrysanthi Koumianaki’s works are based on images from parks depicting elements that exist in them, such as the landscape, memorials, pavillions and leisure time activities.Vasilis Paspalis’ work resists linear conventional narrative by offering several simultaneous narratives, fragments of stories which when combined appear incoherent. www.rebeccacamhi.com

The Last Grand Tour The Museum of Cycladic Art presents for the first time the works of internationally renowned artists who have lived and worked in Greece during the 20th century. Looking at Greece as a source of inspiration over the last seventy years, the works included reflect the different ways in which the country’s long cultural history and geography continue to be a source of artistic innovation. The exhibition highlights the striking discrepancy in contemporary culture that has apparently witnessed the end of the traditional «Grand Tour» so closely associated with Byron and his fellow Romantic artists.

The curator of the exhibition is Jessica Morgan of Tate Modern. www.cycladic.gr

DESTE Prize 2011-04-14 The six shortlisted artists Alexandra Bahzetsi, Anastasia Douka, Irini Miga, Eytixis Patsourakis, Theodoros Stamatoyannis, Jannis Varelas – for the DESTE Prize 2011 will show their work in an exhibition that, for the second time, will be presented at the Museum of Cycladic Art. The DESTE Prize was established in 1999 and is awarded every two years to a Greek artist living in Greece or abroad. The Prize aims to showcase the work of a new and emerging generation of artists and it is an integral part of the Foundation’s policy for supporting and promoting contemporary art in Greece. www.cycladic.gr

10 insider athens | July-August 2011

29 december

Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum Best of: Highlights in Jewelry and Couture 13, 14 The best of the permanent collections of the Lalaounis Museum and the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation are brought together in an exhibition structured as a visual dialogue between jewelry and couture.

Jewels from 50 collections created by Ilias Lalaounis and the Lalaounis house between 1947 and 2008 are presented alongside selected highlights from the extensive costume collections of the PFF.Through a display that addresses fashion as evidence of material culture, the exhibition challenges distinctions between the contemporary and ‘the classic’ as well as between ‘eastern’ and ‘western’ forms and styles. www.lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr

insider athens | July-August 2011

11

The Unfolding Legacy of Lynda Benglis Stephanie Bailey ponders the effectiveness of Lynda Benglis’s retropsecitve at the New Museum, New York, which closed June 19.

G

reek-American artist Lynda Benglis’s work has had a whirlwind tour recently, having had art pieces placed in exhibitions at the Cycladic Museum recently as part of group show The Last Grand Tour, to Polyglossia at the Onassis Cultural Center, as well as a retrospective at the New Museum in New York. It was about time to see a collection of work that charted the growth of one of the 60’s and 70’s most notorious female artists, whose seminal November 1974 Art Forum advertisement in which she appeared naked and fully-bronzed up wielding a dildo has since become a cult expression of female masculinity in a masculine world.

But Benglis is certainly not a feminist; the term would do nothing but confine Benglis into the void of gender discourse, in which all other points of discussion are lost in the exhaustive (and infinite) discussions that surround male and female identity in the contemporary age of supposed gender equality. Rather, Benglis is an enfant terrible, an artist who never accepts the status quo, constantly questioning rigid forms of structure held by the collective either through the treatment of the work of art as an object of contemplation imbued with conflict, to the treatment of the body as a political vessel in itself.

1

3

2

1. Primary Structures (Paula’s Props) - 1975 Aluminum, lead, and plaster with Ficus tree, plastic plant, and velvet 97 x 99 x 63 in - 246.4 x 251.5 x 160 cm Courtesy of the artist and Cheim & Read Gallery © Lynda Benglis. DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2009.

12 insider athens | July-August 2011

2. Quartered Meteor - 1969 - 75 Lead - 57 1/2 x 65 1/2 x 64 1/4 in 146.1 x 166.4 x 163.2 cm Tate Modern

3. Sparkle Knot V - 1972 Acrylic paint and sparkles on plaster, cotton bunting and aluminum screen 42 x 25 x 13 in - 106.7 x 63.5 x 33 cm Courtesy of the artist and Cheim & Read Gallery © Lynda Benglis. DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2009.

Art The current exhibition, the artist’s first retrospective in twenty years, includes work that illustrates the entire spectrum of Benglis’s career including early wax paintings, brightly-colored poured latex works, the Torsos and Knots series from the 1970s, and recent experiments with plastics, cast glass, paper, and gold leaf. It also features a number of rarely exhibited historic works including Phantom (1971), a dramatic polyurethane installation consisting of five monumental sculptures that glow in the dark, and the installation Primary Structures (Paula’s Props), first shown in 1975.

On a sculptural and formalist level, the influences of New Orleans and Greek culture are clearly visible.

Alongside her sculptural output, the New Museum presents examples from Benglis’s radical video, photography, and media work that explore notions of power, gender relations, and role-playing, charged with sexual tensions, challenging the notion of perversion, including Polaroid experimentations that reference the period when Polaroid was first developed and invited artists, including Lucas Samaras, to play with its possibilities through their individual interventions.

In terms of content, the media work presents a critique of gender and artistic identity, and present an aspect to Benglis’s career that could - and should - be further investigated in tandem with her sculpture, not separately, which is effectively what happened at the New Museum.

4

In its entirety, the exhibition is a combination of highs and lows, where examples of Benglis’s three-dimensional

5

4. Wing - 1970 Cast aluminum 67 x 59 1/4 x 60 in 170.2 x 150.5 x 152.4 cm Courtesy of the artist and Cheim & Read Gallery © Lynda Benglis. DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2009.

5. Contraband 1969 Pigmented latex 116 1/4 x 394 1/3 x 3 in 295.3 x 1001.6 x 7.6 cm Whitney Museum of American Art; purchase, with funds from the Painting and Sculpture Committee and partial gift of John Cheim and Howard Read 2008.14 © Lynda Benglis.

DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2009.

latex ‘drop paintings’ that led to Life magazine comparing her work to that of Jackson Pollock in 1970 are placed in spaces that often feel too cramped to truly evoke the artist’s active interaction with space. Gaudy, sometimes tacky, yet somehow inherently organic, the collection of work feels more of a check–list presentation that does not express anything new about an artist whose continued relevance reveals the tensions that still drive contemporary society.

What this reveals is a legacy that has not yet been fullyintegrated within the context of the 21st century art canon still dominated by the likes of Duchamp, Koons et al.That is not to say Benglis’s concerns over gender, society, space and art in a society that confines the fluidity of such concepts are not important. Perhaps it just means they have not yet been fully dealt with. i For more information see www.newmuseum.org.

insider athens | July-August 2011

13

Design

As the summer season officially begins Stephanie Bailey contemplates the opening of the New Hotel in Athens in a city embroiled in its worst crisis in years

S

ome might say it is a strange time to open five-star boutique hotel just steps away from Syntagma Square on Filellinon Street when the Greek capital has never been more on edge. But that is exactly what Dakis Joannou’s YES! Hotels has done. Its latest venture, the NEW Hotel, opens its doors from July, with a more official opening this coming September.

Designed by renowned Brazilian designers Humberto and Fernando Campana alongside 20 young architects from the University of Thessaly, the New Hotel is the first, large-scale interior project undertaken by the formidable duo. Known for work that blurs the lines between art and design through interaction with found objects or materials that explores craftsmanship and transformation through the creation of functional sculpture, the New Hotel is an expression of the Campana brother’s influences, derived from a deep relationship to Brazilian street culture drawn from their native Sao Paulo, coupled with inspiration taken from Greek traditions.

d Fernando

umberto an

H Designers

Campana

14 insider athens | July-August 2011

Invited to re-design the interior of the former Olympic Palace Hotel, established in 1953 and closed post-Olympics in 2004, the brothers decided to re-use the original hotel’s furniture, coupled with natural elements that reflect a deep relationship to materials, from wall-paper that acts more as a skin, created from tree bark, to wooden floors and ceilings made from bamboo. Alongside the Greek project team who worked in the workshop space on the mezzanine floor that now hosts three major function rooms, the hotel integrates Greek culture in three

running themes; the Karagiozis shadow puppet, evil eye charms, and postcards from the 50’s to the 80’s. The result is a building that acts as a cultural collage that speaks to contemporary Greece, distancing itself from the past, without fully disconnecting, either.

Of all their designs, the Favela Chair – made up of scrap wood – acts as an ideal image summing up the ethos of the New Hotel. The hotel restaurant, run by Tassos Ioannides of Nobu-fame, is perhaps the greatest showcase of the trademark design approach that made the Campana brothers famous. Columns made up of intricately connected cut pieces of wooden furniture taken from the original hotel seem to explode from the floor towards the ceiling, while modernist chairs are given a fresh breath of a deconstructed 21st century air. As guest relations manager Natasa Papaeftstathiou notes during a tour of the hotel: “Nothing was thrown away; everything was used.” The result is a juxtaposition of past and present that speaks to the contemporary view from the large, glass windows that separate the restaurant from the street outside.

The idea of re-using pre-existing material and furniture brings the discussion to Syntagma Square, where Greece’s answer to the Spanish Los Indignados movement has been camping in a makeshift-tent city since May 25. During the events of 15 June, the Indignants were forced to abandon camp as riot police and violent protestors faced-off.

Afterwards, Papaefstathiou saw the campers immediately return to the square and clear the entire mess up and rebuild their camp. Witnesses described lines of people of all ages washing away remnants of tear gas

with water bottles, whilst others gathered stone missiles that had rained over the Square that day.

As a community, the Square’s Indignant camp feels like an island beach commune without the sand and sea. They are peaceful, organised and determined to re-engage with the political discourse that has come to elude them through creative and non-violent protest, something the Campana brothers understand.

In an interview for the Design Museum in 2010, the brother’s mention Brazil’s history in a response to a question regarding the European and American interest in Brazilian art and design. “Brazil suffered twenty years of dictatorship, which began little over half a century after the country won its independence and was emerging from its colonial past…

Consequently; Brazil suffered a period of artistic stagnation imposed by this military regime. After the end of the dictatorship, which was only twenty years ago, Brazil was reborn. Today the work of most Brazilian artists is defined by a newborn freedom of expression. Combined with the geographical, cultural and racial diversity of the country, this freedom of expression has resulted in an explosion in the arts that is unique from that of anywhere else.”

Indeed, though in no ways attempting to create a literal comparison between Brazil and Greece, one might argue that the creativity and expression driving the youth movements across Europe at present are just as unique as the movement the Campana brothers describe in their own country. Pointing out the similarities between the Campana’s re-use

insider athens | July-August 2011

15

Design

of the original Olympic Palace furniture in their design as a necessity in a consumer-plagued contemporary world drawing influences from Favela-style DIY in Campana design, I ask Papaefstathiou if she sees any parallels between the make-shift camp at Syntagma, and the New Hotel’s design and ethos. “Of course,” she says. “The only thing [the Syntagma protestors] want is for Athens to grow and become Athens again! The energy from these people is the perfect combination with the New Hotel.”

This very energy Papaefstathiou refers to is driving many of the positive movements taking form in Greece. From community-run guerrilla parks such as Parko Navarinou in Exharchia, to the Troo Food Liberation team, to the industrious Meet Market set up to support young artists and designers in the city, to the Syntagma Square camp pushing for a political forum defined by the people, and not the government, there is a strong sense of change in Athens driven not by the hooded knownunknowns, but by a vast and educated generation coming of age in a time that requires creative and critical solutions.

Talking to architect Elina Axioti, the hotel’s young, talented project designer (and also member of interdisciplinary design group Lambandlamp), it is clear that innovation is something upon which the project thrived. A known supporter of contemporary arts in Greece, particularly through the Deste Foundation and its biennial Deste prize award set up to support local artists [currently on show at the Cycladic Museum until October 30], it seems the New Hotel gave young architects the opportunity to work on an ambitious project that symbolises a desire for something new based on that which already exists.

16 insider athens | July-August 2011

Trained as an architect himself, hotels act as an extension of Joannou’s passion for the contemporary arts, as evidenced in his blockbuster art collection, recently presented at the New Museum, NewYork, in 2010, as well as with Semiramis, designed by pop-artist-cum-designer Karim Rashid, up to now the crowning jewel of YES! Hotel’s portfolio of Athenian hotels. Indeed, as Ioannou gave international art star Jeff Koons his first chance at curating when the collector invited him to curate the 2010 New Museum show, the invitation to the Campana Brothers to complete their first architectural refurbishment reveals a vision that seeks to encourage the development of innovative art and design in a world looking for new ways of interpreting the structures and systems currently defining it. In terms of consistency, one cannot fault Joannou’s vision for Greece’s future and how he encourages its younger generations to share in the development of that vision.

Four years in the making, the completion of the New Hotel could not have come at a better time. Uncertainty towards the future has never been greater, and visible examples of how that which is ugly could become beautiful once more are becoming paramount under the cloud of negativity that hangs over many of Greece’s citizens. But in the face of hardship, all it takes is for people to actively engage with the potential of what is already there and enter into a discourse that might enable a new image of the future to emerge. As the saying goes: Out with the old, in with the new: that’s the word on Filellinon Street.

Stay tuned for interviews with the Campana Brothers as well as the Deste Prize nominees in the September issue of Insider. For more information about YES! Hotels, see www.yeshotels.gr. For more information about the Deste Foundation activities this summer, see www.deste.gr. i

Art

insider athens | July-August 2011

17

B

orn and bred in Melbourne, Steve Agi admits he made little connection with his Greek heritage in his youth. Like many first generation Greek immigrants to Australia, mum and dad were factory workers at a time when migration from Greece to Australia was fuelled by the needs of manufacturing industries.With a Bachelor of Economics degree, Agi worked for a time with the Australian Tax office, but admits his entrepreneurial spirit and a desire to work outside traditional boundaries meant he “never really quite ‘fitted in’ to the normal work force.”

Steve’s parents, from Lesbos and Chios, migrated to Australia in the mid-sixties. His wife Helen, from Lemnos, he describes as his “pillar of strength - she not only keeps me grounded but makes my family life such a blessing.” They have three small children, Kally, Nassia and baby son, Parris.

Early this year, Steve took on an ambitious plan to change the face of Greek media in Australia. Melbourne, a city with at least 150,000 people of Greek descent, has been the centre of Greek media in Australia since the 1950s, a media that traditionally operated in the Greek language, though as the second and third generation grew, recognised the need to address younger generations in English as well as Greek.

Steve Agi is the Greek-Australian entrepreneur behind a new magazine published in Melbourne that aims to break the mould of Greek publishing in Australia. Mike Sweet reports.

18 insider athens | July-August 2011

This changed demographic is at the heart of the OPA! project. “OPA! Magazine was born from a simple idea - the realisation that there was really nothing available to English-speaking Greek people in Australia, “ says Steve, “it’s four months young now, and growing steadily through mainstream distribution, through newsagents and subscription. “It’s a new concept in ethnic publishing,” says Steve,“aimed at second generation, English-speaking Greeks and non-Greeks who are attracted to the Greek way of life. It has no political skew or hidden agenda. It is all about supporting the Greeks in the diaspora, telling their stories, celebrating their lives and achievements here. It’s not about embarrassing, exposing or judging people - traditionally the way the Greek media has operated here in the past.”

Media

Prior to OPA! Agi has been involved in publishing a number of titles related to Australia’s dynamic coffee culture – which has become as much a cultural icon of Australia, as hats with dangling corks, barbecues, or the glittering coral of the Great Barrier Reef.

In fact, coffee plays a central part in Steve Agi’s very being. “thecaffiend is my coffee persona, my trademark if you like,” says Steve, sipping on a ristretto - the connoisseur’s short shot of extra strong espresso, his coffee of choice as we talk. “My consumption of caffeine is legendary around the world. I am still very involved in the coffee industry in a consulting role and various other capacities. I love fresh beans, freshly ground and made on clean equipment by a trained barista.” And how many cups of coffee a day does thecaffiend consume on average? “It varies, but rarely falls below double digits.” No wonder Steve Agi has the energy for the herculean task of re-inventing the Greek press down-under.

Previously founding and managing editor of BeanScene magazine, and publisher of ShortBlk and the Melbourne Coffee Review, Agi also was features editor of Italianicious magazine and the Melbourne Cafe Guide.

OPA! Magazine is certainly the biggest publishing project to date, and as the owner and editor, control of how the magazine develops, and guiding its course with a very personal vision, is important to Steve.

Though only in its fourth edition, (currently it has a print run of 10,000 plus a month, with some 2000 subscribers nationally) he believes the monthly 100-page magazine, is certainly on the right track - commercially and editorially.

“It is exactly where I want it to be, and it got there a lot faster than I thought it would. I have a great team that works on the project who are just as passionate as I am, and together we are not just writing a magazine, we are re-writing history as far as ethnic media in Australia goes. With the launch of the website and the growth of brand awareness I want it to become the Gourmet Traveller, the Cosmopolitan, the Vogue of the Greek diaspora world.”

And what stories to date, does he feel have been most successful in terms of delivering OPA!’s mission? “The stories on the Greek community’s achievements have really excited and moved me, especially the current story on Melbourne’s new Greek Cultural Center [the new multimillion development planned for the iconic Greek quarter of Melbourne CBD] - the support it’s getting from the community. It’s such a huge effort by all concerned, and will be a legacy for all Greeks abroad, not just in Melbourne.”

As someone who has re-connected with his Greek heritage, and is now playing a central role in celebrating and reflecting Australia’s Greek culture, Steve believes some of the stereotypes that have traditionally defined that culture are outdated and need to be challenged. “Greeks here in Australia are united by the Hellenic spirit; their passion to help one another. Contrary to popular belief, the Greeks that I have come across are not only passionate, but also love to help other Greeks do well.

I believe it’s propaganda from the existing Greek Australian media - that Greeks are factional and love to fight. The traditional media love to stir up trouble and create problems, OPA! hopes to change this. I believe that together we can. It’s very exciting.”

And what about Greece? “I haven’t been for fifteen years, due to work and having a family,” Steve admits. Glyfada used to be a favourite haunt.

Is thecaffeind due for a kafes metrio any time soon? “I love Crete and the islands,” says Steve and I hope to get back as soon as I can.” For now, Steve Agi is a man with a mission in Melbourne. “There’s no place like home. I’ve lived overseas for extended periods of time and I have to admit, there is nowhere else in the world that I would rather be, than right here. Apart from the fact that it just feels right, the coffee is to die for, unmatched anywhere! We are so lucky in many ways.” i Steve Agi, thecaffiend is the owner and editor of OPA! Magazine, published in Melbourne. www.thecaffiend.com.au

insider athens | July-August 2011

19

A recent photograph of Paddy Leigh Fermor aat his home in Mani

Mike Sweet pays homage to Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor, the recipient of many awards and prizes - including a knighthood, the freedom of four Greek cities and the Chevalier of France’s Order of Arts and Letters. He was praised throughout the world as a thrilling writer, a real-life hero and a genteel observer of the human condition.

Sir Patrick Michael Leigh Fermor, soldier, traveller and writer, born 11 February 1915; died 10 June 2011

S

ir Patrick Leigh Fermor, the British author, scholar, and WWII Special Operations Executive (SOE) agent, who fought with the Cretan resistance during the German occupation, died aged 96, on June 10. Fermor’s extraordinary life is the stuff of legend; as a travel writer, classical scholar and undercover soldier in Crete in WWII, the author leaves an indelible mark - on both 20th century literature and Greece itself.

Born in 1915 in India to Eileen (nee Ambler), a playwright, and Sir Lewis Leigh Fermor, Director of the Geological Survey of India, the infant Patrick was raised in Northamptonshire by a family called Martin until he was four years old. Later in life he would say with some pride that he had been sent to a school “for rather naughty children,” and that he had been expelled from two others, including the King’s school, Canterbury, where he had formed a liaison with a local greengrocer’s daughter, eight years his senior.

His housemaster at the time described him as “a dangerous mixture of sophistication and recklessness.”

After his parents separated, he lived with his mother in London. In 1933, rather than go to university and just before his nineteenth birthday, he set out to walk from the Hook of Holland, to what he insisted on calling Constantinople (Istanbul). In his rucksack was a volume of Horace. To pass the time on the route, he would recite aloud “a great deal of Shakespeare, several Marlowe speeches, most of Keats’s Odes” as well as “the usual pieces of Tennyson, Browning and Coleridge”. At New Year, 1935, he crossed the Turkish border at Adrianople to reach his destination.

Soon after this epic journey was complete, in Athens, Fermor met the first great love of his life, Balasha Cantacuzene, a Romanian princess who was twelve years his senior. He lived on her family’s estate in Moldavia until the outbreak of WWII, before enlisting in the British Army. Fermor joined the

20 insider athens | July-August 2011

Tribute LZC Special Operations Executive in 1941, and was soon helping to co-ordinate the resistance on the eastern side of Nazi-occupied Crete. With his knowledge of the Greek language he made the perfect undercover agent and relished the need to assume a Cretan identity. His most audacious act was the ambush and kidnap of the man overseeing the Nazi occupation of the island in 1944, General Heinrich Kreipe. Fermor and his group (disguised as German soldiers) ambushed the General’s car and led him through the mountains, eventually evacuating him to Egypt.This daring exploit was later made into the 1957 film Ill Met by Moonlight starring Dirk Bogarde. Fermor once said that, “it was all so much more interesting than it appeared in the film.” Fermor met his future wife Joan Eyres-Monsell in Cairo, the base for SOE operations into Greece.

After some time in airborne reconnaissance over Germany in 1945, he was briefly vice-director of the British Institute in Athens, organising courses in Greek culture and archaeology. 1 “He returned to Britain to be demobbed, and ‘lived for a time in the couriers rooms high up in the Ritz hotel that cost half a guinea a night.’ He arrived there with Xan Fielding, his comrade in arms [from SOE days], who had a barrel of Cretan wine on one shoulder, and with Joan.”

In 1950, Leigh Fermor published his first book, The Traveller’s Tree, about his post-war travels in the Caribbean; Paddy and Joan lived the life of nomads for much of the 1950s. Correspondence from that time, (published in 2008 as In Tearing Haste - an anthology of his letters to the Duchess of Devonshire) traces them to Italy, France, and Cameroon, as well as various corners of England and his beloved Greece.The 1950s would be the decade in which he wrote many of his most celebrated works - The Violins of Saint-Jacques (1953), A Time to Keep Silence (1957), and Mani - Travels in the Southern Peloponnese (1958). Greece always beckoned.

2 “In 1964, Paddy and Joan focused their energy on building a house on a peninsula about a mile outside the village of Kardamili, in the Mani. A local mason, Nikos Kolokotronis, provided the expertise.‘Settled in tents, we read Vitruvius and Palladio,’ Paddy wrote. ‘Learned all we could from old Mani buildings, and planned the house.’ Limestone was quarried from the foothills of the Taygetos mountains, which rear up behind the building as the Gulf of Messenia opens before it.” In 1968 Joan and Paddy married.

In 1977 A Time of Gifts - On Foot to Constantinople: From the Hook of Holland to the Middle Danube, was published, 43 years after the journey had been undertaken. It was followed by the second installment of the epic voyage Between the Woods and the Water, in 1986. A planned third volume was never completed.

The passing of Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor, considered to be one of the greatest travel writers of the 20th century has been marked with tributes of great affection. “He was blessed with arete, that Greek quality liable to half translation as virtue, goodness or valour,” said The Times. The Economist said, “His wandering, writing life evoked the essential unity of Europe, the cultural and linguistic intertwinings and layer upon layer of shared history; and all with a lightness, and an infectious joy, that inspired many others to set out in the same way.”

Paddy and Joan Leigh Fermor had no children; the house at Kardamili has reportedly been left to the Benaki Museum. Joan died in 2003 and is buried in the English village of Dumbleton, Gloucestshire, where she was born.

Paddy’s last resting place is by her side. i Reference:The Guardian, Books 10.6 .2011 1 Peter Levi

2

James Campbell.

In Crete during WWII

insider athens | July-August 2011

21

Diplomacy

‘B

e careful what you wish for,’ one is often warned. In Renata Wielgosz’s case, the oracle at Delphi did heed the request she made in the summer of ‘93 (on a visit from Prague where she was based) to ‘become an ambassador someday’. Fourteen years later, she was posted to Athens as the Canadian Ambassador to Greece. Divine intervention or not, Renata Wielgosz’s tenure here came at a crucial time for Greece and the EU and its longstanding partnership with Canada. As her time here comes to a close, she can look back on a very busy and fruitful four years. It was marked by high-profile visits, including that of the former Foreign Minister in 2009, the former Governor General in 2009, the former International Trade Minister in December 2010, and Prime Minister of Canada Stephen Harper in May 2011. She has overseen the final stages of a long-overdue agreement on double taxation implemented on January 1 of this year, and the signing of an agreement on youth mobility – Greece’s first. On top of that, negotiations are progressing well on finalizing a ground-breaking comprehensive economic and trade agreement between the EU and Canada.

She believes that the negotiation of a comprehensive economic and trade agreement between Canada and the EU is an extremely positive development.“It is quite advanced and nothing quite like it exists today.

It will be a first between Canada and the EU and it is expected that this agreement will significantly boost trade.The benefits are expected to be around 30 billion dollars a year.”

Renata Wielgosz, Canada’s Ambassador to Greece, opens up about the milestones achieved in double taxation, negotiations toward a free trade agreement with the EU, Greek-Canadian film productions, Leonard Cohen and more.

This constitutes Canada’s most significant trade initiative since the signing of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). The EU is Canada’s largest trade partner and investment ally after the US, a relationship that is likely to endure over the years, informs the ambassador.“There was a study conducted showing a 50-year projection until 2060 and it was found that regardless of how the variables - the economy, exchange rates, energy prices, emerging markets, etc. - would pan out, the EU would still be Canada’s second-largest trading partner. So the expectation and hope is that the agreement is concluded and that it goes into effect fairly soon.”

Wielgosz is also visibly thrilled at the impact the Canada-Greece double taxation policy will have on business partnerships in both countries and on the sizeable and vibrant Greek expatriate community in Canada.

With 250,000 Canadians of Greek descent living in Canada and 25,000 Greek Canadians living here (80% of whom are dual nationals), there has always been a lot of goodwill with fertile cultural exchanges between the two countries. Excavating those roots, literally, has been an activity that has received great amounts of interest and success both here and in Canada.

22 insider athens | July-August 2011

A vibrant annual exchange exists of Canadian archaeologists coming to Greece to participate in important archaeological excavations, largely executed under the auspices of the Canadian Institute in Greece. Greek archaeologists, for their part, participate in aboriginal excavations in Canada. Jacques Perreault, who was the Director of the Canadian Institute in Greece in the 1980s, made an extraordinary discovery in Argilos in Northern Greece. Renata Wielgosz visited the site last summer when Perreault was handed the keys to the city.“It is one of the earliest Greek colonies in the area that dates back to 655 BC with influences from a number of islands and it was one place where the Roman and Byzantine civilizations did not build on top. So when they dug through the soil, what they found were entire walls.”

Wielgosz continues, “Perreault is an amazing example of someone who fosters a genuine exchange but there are also a number of Greek professors who, as part of the Canadian studies programme, teach a number of subjects from Canadian literature to political science and history in a number of universities in Greece, not just in Athens, but also in Thessaloniki and Corinth.”

A growing area of Greek-Canadian collaboration has been in motion picture co-production.The film Fugitive Pieces, based on Canadian author Anne Michaels’ moving novel that takes place in Poland, Greece and Canada, was the first to emerge from the Canada-Greece audio-visual co-production agreement. It premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival and subsequently screened at the Thessaloniki Film Festival in 2007, both times to critical acclaim.

Canada has been an active participant in a number of international film festivals in Greece, notably the Thessaloniki Film Festival and the Thessaloniki Documentary film festival, where Canadians like Peter Wintonick have been recognized for their contribution to filmmaking.

“I had the pleasure of attending his receipt of a lifetime achievement award during my tenure here.”

“We also participate in the Athens Film Festival and, as a member of the International Organisation of La Francophonie, which includes Greece, we are active in the Francophonie Film Festival and in thematic festivals such as Ecofilms.”

In addition, Canada continues to foster a strong literary presence in Greece. Michael Ondaatje, whose book The English Patient won several awards and was later adapted into the hugely successful movie by Anthony Minghella, was present at the Thessaloniki International Film Festival two years ago for a reading and to take part in a panel discussion

on novels and cinema. Literary colossus Margaret Atwood’s Hellenic connection is also well documented.Through her Penelopiad, a probing and beautiful retelling of the myth of Odysseus from the perspective of his wife, Penelope, she has successfully lent a contemporary, feminist twist to Homer’s epic.

Then there’s singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen, whose love affair with Greece continues through a recently-released special edition of his poetry in Greek and English. Cohen has lived in Hydra intermittently since the sixties. “I had the pleasure of attending his concert here in 2008,” muses Wielgosz.“It was wonderful - it was really a homecoming for him.

There have been these links with Greece and they continue to foster a strong bond between our two countries.”

“And in music, we have Alain Lefèvre, who has performed many times here, most recently to promote the film, ‘L’Enfant prodige: l’incroyable destinée d’André Mathieu’ directed by Luc Dionne. The film is based on the life of the forgotten Canadian child prodigy, whose music has been brought alive by Alain Lefèvre and is now enjoying tremendous popularity. Lefèvre, a composer and pianist himself, has written a collection in honour of the considerable time he has spent in Greece, aptly named after the elements that inspired him: Anemos, Helios, and Thalassa.

However, for Renata Wielgosz, the most valuable bond with Greece is the Olympic spirit. Canada has had the privilege of hosting the Olympic Games three times - in Montreal in summer 1976, the Winter Olympics in Calgary in 1988 and in Vancouver in February 2010. It was also host to the Special Olympics in 1997 in Toronto. For the 2011 Athens Special Olympics, Canada has one of the larger contingents: 147 in total. “The participants were hosted in Rhodes as part of the Host Town programme - to get acclimatized, overcome their jetlag and learn a bit about Greece - before their big events in and around Athens. I am pleased that Rhodes was selected for Canada because there is a very interesting Canadian community there that established an excellent local school.”

What started as a Delphic dream for Wielgosz has become a deep-seated fondness for Greece. “I have had a wonderful time in this country but there are certain moments I particularly cherish. “The lighting of the Olympic torch at Ancient Olympia and the handover at the Panathenaic Stadium for the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver were very moving and emotional experiences.The other highlight was the opening of the new Acropolis Museum – just seeing the friezes at the museum for the first time and looking across at the Acropolis, bathed in moonlight. It was magical, indescribable.” i

insider athens | July-August 2011

23

1

3

2

4

5

INSEAD got together to analyse the Greek crisis.

released annually on July 5. The school held its graduation and prize giving ceremony on May 27.

As every year, Campion graduates have received top offers from British universities in medicine and medical sciences (UCL, Edinburgh), biological/ biomedical sciences (Edinburgh,Sheffield,Warwick), physics and chemistry (UCL, Imperial),art and architecture (Royal Holloway, Brighton, Newcastle and Cardiff) as well as law, politics and history (Bath, Glasgow, Queen Mary). i

6

At the Greek Power Summit on June 14 and 15, opinion makers including 1 Steve Forbes, Chairman, Forbes Media, seen here with George Koukis, Chairman of Temenos Group, Michael Pagidas, President of the Association of CEOs in Greece and Elena Ambrosiadou, Chairman of IKOS Group, Cyprus and 2 Krzysztof Walenczak, Polish Minister of Treasury, Nicholas W. Lazares, Chairman of Admirals Bank, Stephen Cucchiaro, CIO Windhaven Investment Management, John P. Calamos, Sr. Chairman of Calamos Investments, and Spyros Makridakis, Emeritus Professor,

24 insider athens | July-August 2011

The American Women’s Organisation of Greece organised a charity gala at Balux at which Athens Insider was a proud sponsor. Seen here 3 AWOG President Eleni Palivos with US Ambassador, Daniel B. Smith and Diane Smith 4 Also present were Diane and Antonis Valmas and 5 Nikki and Francois Savaricas.

6 For the majority of Campion’sYear 13 graduates, the summer holidays have been tinged with impatience and anxiety regarding the IB results,

insider athens | July-August 2011

25

Chocolat, Thissio

What do you do?

I am the President of the American Women’s Organization of Greece (AWOG) and mother of four.

Which area of Athens do you live in?

I live in the southern suburbs.

What do you see from your balcony?

I see a park and tennis courts from my balcony.

Your all-time favourite restaurant?

My all-time favourite restaurant is Akrotiri.

Where do you unwind after work?

I unwind by going for long walks or by relaxing with a glass of wine.

Describe your perfect Sunday in Athens.

A perfect Sunday for me is a sunny day, at a nice taverna on the sea, with family and good friends.

Secret parking space in central Athens?

Some secrets are best kept secret.

Eleni Palivos, President of the American Women’s Organisation of Greece, on enjoying the small things that make all the difference

26 insider athens | July-August 2011

Can you describe a quintessentially Athenian sound, smell, taste and sight?

A quintessentially Athenian sound is that of a street musician playing old Greek songs; a smell is that of a kebab from Thanasis in Monastiraki; a taste is that of a fresh bougatsa from a local bakery; and sight is a mixture of the old and new--looking at the Parthenon from the roof garden at Chocolat in Thissio.

My Athens

The Mall Athens

What’s your favourite city stroll?

My favourite city stroll is the pedestrian walk on Apostolou Pavlou in Thissio.

What is the ideal souvenir from Greece?

I would have to say ouzo or a komboloi.

Any favourite shops or boutiques?

I enjoy BSB and Folli Follie.

Any funny cab stories?

None that I can think of.

Best place to get away from it all?

The best place to get away from it all is anywhere along the Athenian Coast.

Most positive change in Athens over the last ten years?

The most positive change in my opinion is Better Transport(Airport, Attiki Odos, Metro, Tram); Better Shopping(Shopping Malls and Superstores); and Better Environmental Initiatives(Recycling and Pollution Control).

Do you think the crisis will in the long term have a positive impact?

I think it is too early to say, but I hope so.

Syndagma metro station

If you were mayor for a day, what would you change?

If I were mayor for a day, I would beautify the city through clean up and the restoration of buildings. i

insider athens | July-August 2011

27

So who is Theodoros Savopoulos?

My Greek-American mother met my Greek father in NY, when a ‘love at first sight’ was enough to move your life from NYC to Kavala in northern Greece. (my ipad’s auto correction doesn’t recognize “Kavala” I think that says it all!) I was born in 1980, in magical Kavala in northern Greece where the Aegean Sea drenches the sacred Olympus, the house of all gods and the Paggaion Mountain, home of Alexander the Great. Great history was witnessed by the surrounding rock hills; earth sodden with human blood; a geography supercharged with human drama. People here are genuine and simple, kind in the heart and clear in the eyes. I grew up by the sea, playing and fishing with my brother and my friend Harris. At the age of 18, I moved to Thessaloniki to study Chemistry of foods and after my military service, despite how weird it felt to go back to school, I moved to Athens for my MBA at the American College of Greece. Now, I live in Athens enjoying a bachelor’s life.

Theodoros Savopoulos’ gem-crusted creations adorn the slim fingers of Hollywood celebrities such as Demi Moore. In an exclusive interview with Athens Insider he traces his incredible destiny into the world of jewellery making from Kavala to LA and back to Athens

What is a jewel for you?

I would call a jewel an artistic craft in miniature proportions. I like to think of jewels as being more than body ornaments, they belong to a level of non-vocal and cryptographic communication, they tell different stories to different people, they are eloquent but also deceptive, they can inspire desire, even lust; they definitely have an attitude.

Jewels have to agree to be worn, it’s a mutual thing, or else they will tell everyone all kinds of different stories about you, you don’t even want to know...

What kind of jewels do you wear?

I use my personal jewels as reminders of the attitude I want to sustain throughout the day. Usually, I want to be reminded of the fact that I am still alive, because I am afraid I will never succeed in fully appreciating this. I place my jewels on the bathroom sink, I want them as witnesses when I am mirroring my face in the morning and I am making a decision about who I want to be today. I need to be reminded that every day is an unexpected gift of inconceivable value.

Ironically, my skull ring always reminds me of that, it always corrects my thinking when I think that something is very serious or bad and places a huge obstacle between me and my dreams, it kind of downsizes all obstacles in my mental map. My skull ring is always there to remind me that TIME is the important thing, I should make choices that give me quality for whatever time I’m left with. I am reminded to go confidently into the direction of my dreams, to live the life I had always imagined.

When, where and why did you start designing jewellery?

Since my first memories as a small boy, I always followed my grandfather in the fields where he still cultivates olive trees today. My grandfather Theodoros has always been my mentor; being the grandson named after him he chose me to continue his life work not in any specific field but more in a spiritual sense. He wanted me to observe

28 insider athens | July-August 2011

Fashion

the circle of life to understand the functions of nature, and use this as a guide in my life, as a compass. He is a man of strong will, he never really went to school, he went to war for many years instead, (that’s why he doesn’t need a skull ring to remind him that life is precious) he has a great understanding of nature and he is the wisest person I know in terms of intuition. I can’t tell that I ever found olive trees equally fascinating with him but I really enjoyed playing with insects and secretly taking them back home with me, or catching birds or lizards. Soon I knew a lot about fish and birds and insects and I had an understanding of their behavior and physiology. I couldn’t really share this enthusiasm with any of my school mates, I was introduced to the magical world of nature by my grandfather and this was for me to know. He is now 86 having exactly the same life style. He loves to tell me how surprised he was one day when I was 5, I stopped to pick up a snail that looked weird to me. It was flat - nothing like the snails I had seen before. I put it in my pocket and kept thinking of it for some time, then I showed him the snail and I said “Look, a water snail on land!” I had never seen a water snail before but I knew it needed water to stand upright because it seemed too flat to do this in the air..

It may be a little difficult to explain but for me that was the time when I started with jewels, collecting shells, feathers, seeds, snake skins, goat horns, horse teeth and rocks and minerals was my world, these were my trophies from my adventures with my grandfather, I could bring them back home and treasure them in my secret box under my bed.

All these objects, so real, so interesting so beautiful, so many stories to tell, what I do today has a lot to do with these memories of mine.

What kind of materials do you use?

I find gemstones fascinating! Exploring their world is so interesting.

Natural gems are always the soul of my jewels, they inspire us to dream, they trigger our imagination. I use the symbolism of their colour to express my ideas as a designer. Sometimes I use a green Colombian Emerald for it’s enigmatic character and irresistible charm. A bloodred ruby is a lucid symbol of passionate love. One of my favorites are black diamonds, I love them for the rigidness of their character, they are black and extremely sparkling, they are aggressive and free spirited like rebellious teenagers, they don’t like colors actually they don’t like anything, being the hardest material on earth further intensifies their young soul. I use them as a symbol of freedom, of opposition in old thinking. A really wild gemstone. I use all kinds of different natural materials like gold, silver, copper, leather, wood, shells, teeth and bones apart from valuable gems. I love them all, my concern most of the times is about matching the different materials together since they all have little attitudes and sometimes they don’t like each other..

For instance none of the white pearls I met so far really like black diamonds: it looks like old ladies and 14 year-old skate boarders trying to communicate. But on the other hand this makes it intriguing to attempt. The core responsibility of my designs is about keeping a balance that ensures all participants are happy.

Most of your creations are… crosses, skulls, snakes and wild animals… how would you define your style?

I believe nature is the exclusive provider of pure beauty. Nature is the only anti-decorative creator. There is always a sequence of reasoning in the background of even the most «surreal» masterpieces. Subtract something from nature that you think seems like an unnecessary luxury detail, and someone will die. Yes, peacocks survive on that magnificent tail! Every natural manifestation of beauty is actually an unimaginable life sustaining mechanism. And that is pure art!

My aesthetics as a designer are related to these rules but I don’t try to imitate natural beings. I don’t design copies of flowers or other creatures.That would be more hopeless than playing Beethoven’s 9th symphony with a Christmas triangle..

It is the fields of surrealism rather that I explore by distorting reality in a somewhat spiritual and sarcastic way, creating fetishistic objects that some people like to wear for unclear reasons.

insider athens | July-August 2011

29

to person and from time to time too. For instance the cross with the 11 upside down black diamonds with their sharp pavilions exposed, can be a symbol of pain, sacrifice and altruism to one, and a blasphemy for an other.

I like ambiguity when it comes to symbolism, it kind of leaves all ends open, open to different interpretations according to each one’s standpoint. I am not here to teach, I am not here to define right or wrong, I live the symbolism of my creations to be explored.

What is the first step to create a jewel?

Oh, it’s a step back! When I meet an amazing gem stone! Everything starts with the stone. Turning around and playing with the stone in my fingers when the sun is up, is like a brainstorm for me, it is the most important moment! It is an intense argument between imagination, aesthetics and technical thinking in the speed of light! I know I have a design when I get so excited that I refuse to think any further.

What does inspire you to create jewels?

Inspiration is something very strange, like a femme fatale, I have absolutely no control over it, I never know where to look for it, I have no idea how it will look like next time I meet her, I have no guarantees for future visits too. She always comes uninvited and practices her seductive powers for her own mysterious purposes. Inspiration can take any form that I can relate with, it is a subconscious game between latent memories and random stimuli. For example, it is possible, the impression that came from a woman I met or imagined to inspire me towards the curves of a crawling snake or a colour combination of violet purple and hot pink. Or another time maybe I wake up in the morning and I feel like changing everything in my thinking and starting something new, upside down black diamonds with their sharp cones exposed can be a visual correlation to that feeling and a starting point to design a bracelet symbolizing freedom.

What do your creations symbolize?

Symbolism is in the beholder’s eye. It is always different from person

What are you preparing for S/S 2011?

I wish I was the kind of organized man who could answer questions like this.You see I have not ‘collectionized’ my work very distinctively yet, apart from the «oceanis» collection where diamonds and precious gems are threaded together with colorful nylon into stackable bracelets, which is a genuine summertime collection, I cannot see much of seasonality in what I do so far.

Man, woman, unisex… who are you designing for?

With the exception of custom projects, I start designing a piece mainly for the stones that it hosts, I mean I don’t think of male/female when designing, I go where it takes me. When my work is finished, my friends can explore my collection and identify with a piece, whether it is a man’s or a woman’s piece is not for me to decide. My friend Harris says if its not a wristwatch, it is a woman’s piece... Fortunately, some people think differently!

Actors, relevant fingers and some of the jet-set members are already some of your clients but… who would you like to wear your jewels?

That question gives me the perfect opportunity to express how thankful I am to my best friend Luis who helped me on this level with his high ranking circle of friends - nothing would be the same without his contribution. Thank you brother.

I make jewels to see people excited. Honestly, this is what it is all about.

Surely I feel very honoured when my favourite artists get excited with my work. I want people to create a close relation with the jewel they choose, this is what happens when they are genuinely excited about it. I felt very honoured when one of my Hollywood friends told me that his wife loved his gift of earrings for the baby they were about to have so much that she wanted to wear them while giving birth! So this is what I care about more, to have a good match! i The interview first appeared in spanish in H Magazine in June 2011

30 insider athens | July-August 2011

Voukourestiou 1, Syntagma, CITYLINK, Tel: 210 3311107, Fax: 210 3311017 NEW STORE: Anagnostopoulou 26-28 Kolonaki, Tel: 210 3622564 Pindarou 42, Kolonaki, Tel: 210 3618029, Fax: 210 3617703 Ag. Dimitriou 7, Kifissia, Tel: 210 8017151 Kifissias 37A, Maroussi, Golden Hall, Tel: 210 6838092 e-mail: info@vourakisliana.gr www.lianavourakis.com

insider athens | July-August 2011

31

Yachting haven, fish gourmand’s paradise or tourist trap?

Insider explores Mikrolimano, Piraeus’ most beguiling little harbor.

Cityscope

P

iraeus, the port city of Athens since antiquity, sprawls back from a trio of natural harbors and is a major shipping and financial centre, offering the usual big-city delights of shops, cinemas, theatres, and museums. However, if you prefer a more relaxed place, take a volta around nearby Mikrolimano, the smallest, prettiest and most popular of Piraeus’ ports.

Start with your walk at the rosy-stoned church, Panagias Mirditiotissis (Virgin Mary of the Myrtle), which takes its name from an ancient icon found in Kythera among burning myrtle bushes. The icon itself was hardly damaged while the rest of the area was ravaged by fire. Many lovely frescoes, lit by golden chandeliers, line the walls and domed ceiling. Just a few minutes of watching reverent locals of all ages ritually lighting a candle before approaching the icon to kiss it is proof enough that Orthodoxy is still an integral part of Greek life.

A few steps away is O Sifis on Divaleri Street, a landmark fish restaurant which started life as a beach taverna. Owner Kostas Skounakis, whose grandfather opened O Sifis in the 1930’s, has a collection of old photographs showing the original beach front – now a little canal running in front of the Peace and Friendship Stadium (SEF), which opened in 1985. A road covering the beach was the first phase of this ambitious redevelopment.“The road was built between 1967 and 1974,’ Skounakis said. “There was no democracy then: the locals weren’t consulted but no-one complained for fear they would be put in prison.” Depending on the time of day you walk beside the canal, which is lined with small craft an fishing boats (some go as far as the Cyclades for their catch), you will have different company. If it’s early there will be families with

youngsters gamboling ahead. At nightfall the crowds thicken and it becomes obvious that the area is a big tourist attraction. But the visitors will always be balanced with groups of either locals or Athenians.

In the daytime or early evening, walk over the first little canal bridge into the park. Admittedly this would benefit from more trees and flowers but on this warm day there is shade enough for respite from the heat.

When school is out the many basketball courts ring with the sounds of bouncing balls and young voices. Close by is the Bak Bak fun park where local mothers take their small children for diversion, and teenagers dodge, spin and collide with bumper cars. There is also a popular outdoor theatre in the park.

Turning right after the theatre, walk back to the mainland over a second wooden bridge where the canal becomes a yacht basin. Turning right again, you will come to a white neoclassical villa which houses the Hellenic Offshore Racing Club (HORC). If looking at boats moored as far as the eye can see is making you want to buy one you will need a license and this is where to get it – as well as to sign up for lessons so that you can actually manage your craft. According to instructor Manos Roudas (a third-generation Piraeus resident, who is a mine of information on his native city), this is the country’s oldest and largest sailing club.

A short way along, past an incongruous partly built construction, you come to a bend in the road. We have now arrived at the harbour of Mikrolimano (small harbour), which is formerly, and is sometimes still, referred to as Turkolimano (Turkish Harbour). From before 500 B.C. when it began to be fortified, this was the ancient military port of Munychea. It has a distinctly island feel, which shouldn’t come as a

insider athens | July-August 2011

33

surprise as, in the distant past, Piraeus was an island, separated from the mainland by the marshes of Halipedon. At Mikrolimano, the main road becomes Akti Koumoundourou – taking the family name of one Alexandros whose restored villa stands on your left and now houses the Naval Society of Greece (NAS).The top floor is a restaurant for upmarket seaside dining, Its terrace affords the best view by the bay- where a forest of waving masts top gently rocking yachts- and the gentle rise of Kastella lies in the background.

When, in 1834, Athens was declared the country’s capital there was hardly a building left standing here. Now, there is scarcely a gap between neoclassical villas and apartment blocks as they climb higgledly- piggledly up the hillside.The rooftop terrace has a sweeping view of the sea, with Faliro beyond, and Athens to the left.This is the perfect place to sip a cocktail and watch distant streetlights spark into the blue dusk then, as the world turns, become beacons in the black night. Down below, Joseph will be working at creating a warm ambience. “I play all kinds of music but nothing too heavy,” he said, explaining that many of the customers are couples, of all ages.

To one side of Katafigio are ranks of fish tavernas and cafes, while on the other is the seaside, with low wooden cabins for sheltered seating in all weathers. If it is a weekday afternoon, at any time of the year except a public holiday, it is possible to find solitude here. Sink into a chair to sip on an ice-cold frappe – my favorite café for frappe stops is Cocoon – and let your mind freewheel back to ancient times, trying to catch an echo of legions of Roman soldiers rhythmically marching towards Athens, or the shouts of marauding Vikings scrambling ashore. If though,

34 insider athens | July-August 2011

it is evening or a public holiday, your reality will doubtless be loud chat and laughter from a happy throng.

Faced with such an array of fish tavernas how does one choose where to sit? Locals say that they are all good, although some pricier than others. A favorite is Captain John’s: owner Vivie Yannakopoulou serves a popular giouvetsi of shrimps and feta cheese. Tavernas Ammos and Jimmy the Fish both specialize in meze – small dishes of seafood – the sharing of food enlivens the meal. At Zefryos, family-run for 60 years, owner George Panagiotu attributes their continuing popularity to the fact that the fish and seafood are always fresh – and even the salads are freshly made to order.

After a fishy feast, starry-eyed couples might head to Love Café, beside the floodlit waters, for a little extra romance. We are now approaching the end of the bay, marked by the prestigious Yachting Club of Greece (YCG). Unfortunately, you need to be a member (or a member’s friend) to enter, but if you fancy a nautical atmosphere, try Exi café/bar only a stone’s throw away. Owned by Tasos Boudouris, four-time Olympic sailing champion, Exi does a brisk trade in early breakfasts and late dinners fortifying those going to and coming from sea voyage. Customers here include Olympic medalists Ilias Hadjipaulis and George Zaimis, and manager Vaios Konstantinos says that former king Konstantine dropped last year. So there you have it: at this tiny port, you can rub shoulders with Olympians, tourists, loved-up couples, sailors and even kings (albeit exiled ones). As local Cephalus said to the Athenian philosopher Socrates in the opening scene of Plato’s Republic, set around 420BC:“…Piraeus: you aught to come oftener.”

Cityscope

A feast that launched a thousand ships When in Piraeus, why not do as the shipping tycoons do: take a long, leisurely lunch at one of the area’s best restaurants? Who knows, you might even find yourself lunching next to a multimillionaire scion of the Niarchos or Latsis clan – or maybe you’ll catch Stelios Hadjioannou having an easy meal.

The maritime capital’s lunch scene has come a long way sine 1967, when several ship-owners got together and established a marine club for casual meetings outside the boardroom.With lunch an increasingly popular means of enhancing business relations in a more informal manner, establishments offering a global cornucopia of cuisines have sprouted along the waterfront, providing locals with an irresistible selection of midday meal options.

The commercial hub of Piraeus is Akti Miaouli, the main artery which runs parallel to the central port. Just a few paces off it is Filellinon Street, the heart of the shipping district and the location of Story, where shipowners meet to exchange views on market trends over a meal.

Despite the well-at-heel clientele, the atmosphere here is relaxed and the décor modern but comfortable.The stylish hostess, Irene, greets her clients with a smile and is always on hand to ensure that her customers are satisfied with the quality of food and service. Story’s frequently changing menu from modern European cuisine with Greek twists satisfies many tastes. With a wide choice of food, from creative starters like the delicious garidaki Simiako (salted crevettes from the island of Symi), to fresh fish of the day, different meat dishes, pasta or risotto, and excellent desserts, Irene keeps them coming back for more.

insider athens | July-August 2011

35

Gato Mediterraneo

Right next door to Story is the Astoria NY deli/bar/restaurant, which has become a magnet for colleagues in the shipping industry to get together and enjoy a meal and a beer during lunch or after office hours. A casual, Manhattan-style restaurant, Astoria is famed for its delicious burgers (beef or chicken) garnished with onions and mushrooms, its selection of sausages, and gammon steaks accompanied by homemade French fries.

If you prefer traditional Greek cuisine, Galaxis is an old family-run eatery which has offered its clients home cooked Greek specialties since 1977.

Kiveli, the owner and daughter of the founder, energetically ensures that every day a selection of delicious local dishes like moussaka, pastichio, imam baildi, to name but a few, are neatly displayed daily in the glass case at the entrance and are served to her customers accompanied by the best bread in the area. Due to the location and nature of Piraeus, many nationalities have left their mark here. Tucked away on one of the side streets, where the cracked paving makes it safer to walk on the road than the pavement, is Rouan Thai, a restaurant serving authentic Thai cuisine.

Here, the alluring flavors of the east are served by Pavlos and cooked by his Thai wife, Marina.The broad range of dishes on offer, including traditional Thai appetizers and exotic specialties such as pork phad kra prow and tasty tom yang kung (prawn soup) make this a popular venue.

Further along Akti Miaouli, opposite the grand church of Agios Nikolaos (patron saint of seafarers) which is proudly positioned to watch over the port, is the OLP Exhibition Centre, which – although currently under restoration – traditionally hosted the Posidonia shipping gala.

36 insider athens | July-August 2011

Cityscope

Eat: Story, Filellinon 9. 210 4294509 Astoria, Filellinon 9 and Filonos. 210 4294905 Rouan Thai, Notara 131. 210 4294494 Galaxias, Fillelinon 2. 210 4292848 Gato Mediteraneo, Akti Miaouli 67. 210 4599713 Peiraikon, Karaiskou 175. 210 4182043 Maragaro, Hadzikyriakou126. 210 4514226 Zefyros, Akti Koumoundourou 48. 210 4175152 Captain John’s, Akti Koumoundourou 16A. 210 4177589 Ammos, Akti Koumoundourou 44. 210 4224633

Drink: Katifigio, Akti Koumoundourou 4. 210 4131612 Exi, Akti Koumoundourou 64. 210 422 2652

Sail: Hellenic Offshore Racing Club, Akti Athinas Dilaveri 3.

T. 210 4123357 Story

For daily info on sailing , see Manos Roudas’ blog http://mysailing.

Here, among the mix of modern and classical architecture, is Gato Mediterano, a stylishly decorated restaurant with the formal yet relaxed atmosphere. Customers socialize whilst dining either at one of the spacious tables or perched at the long brass bar, with a glass of fine wine in hand, listening to the soothing background music (which ranges from jazz to modern soul), and enjoying a selection from the menu of fresh fish, and shellfish, delectable pastas, salads and classic meat dishes cooked and served to perfection.

Continuing along the side streets, among the scattered archaeological sites which have been turned into public parks and down towards Pasalimani (Marina Zea), there is a small ouzerie (a taverna serving ouzo accompanied by a variety of small mezedes dishes) called Peiraikon. Tucked away under one of the many unattractive apartment blocks suffocating the derelict neoclassical buildings which offer a glimpse of Piraeus’ past splendours, this little place is always packed with ouzo-lovers who chat away whilst drinking their ouzo and enjoying platters of grilled octopus, fresh mussels and clams. Calamari and many other fruits of the Aegean sea that the owner, Nikos, keeps generously piling onto the table.

For those who want to escape from the vibrant commercial district, a perfect alternative is Margaro near the Naval Cadets school.The quaint whitewashed taverna, set in an island-style house right at the edge of Piraeus, serves only fried prawns and crayfish (upon availability), red mullet and Greek salad. www.sailingblog.net i Astoria

insider athens | July-August 2011

37

Adventure

Giorgos Frantzeskakis and Angelos Giotopoulos play Johnny Depp for a day as they set sail aboard a pirate ship

W

hen I was a little kid, I wanted to become an astronaut. I loved flying, the infinity of space and Star Trek, so it seemed like the perfect plan. A couple of years later, I found out about the hard work required and the opposing statistics, so I promptly gave it up – decided to become a journalist instead.

Almost all of my friends abandoned their childish, childhood dreams. We all settled for real careers, “real jobs”. But in my line of work, every once in a while, you get to meet the few who didn’t. This is one of those stories.

Captain Josef Dvorsky loved pirates. Not the ones hijacking cruisers and tankers by the Red Sea or off the shores of Somalia. The real kind. With eye patches, hooks and black powder pistols. He also loved the sea and in a compromising attempt to stay close to his dream, he became a skipper. Rich customers, demanding bosses, luxurious mega yachts, the works. He believed the pirate dream to be consumed by the perks of reality. But he was wrong.

38 insider athens | July-August 2011

insider athens | July-August 2011

39

Adventure

A few years ago, he unearthed the story of La Grace. A hundred foot sailing boat, a brig, notorious for her captain’s feats as seafarer, pirate, politician, merchant and high profile entrepreneur – not necessarily in that precise order. He was mesmerized. Without even considering the forbidding cost of such a venture, he came up with diversions and ideas to build her, at an exact one-to-one scale of the original, compromising only in terms of modern safety regulations and on-board living conditions. He turned to friends and former employers. He offered free cruises on the boat, in return for man-hours and expertise. He researched shipyards all over the world, in the lookout for solid and inexpensive craftsmanship. One mortgaged house, a lot of favours in stock and a few petty loans later, he was there; on the bridge of La Grace. Master and commander of his dream. The ship’s overall cost exceeded the 700.000 euro limit, Josef knew that this was going to be his lifelong companion from now on, but there she was: The best of the Age of Sail! A fast, highly manoeuvrable, real warship, the most popular vessel of its era, back in the mid 1800’s, a boat, perhaps mostly suitable to bear a female name, being a love story fulfilled.

We sailed together on La Grace, Captain Josef, his company of cadets, his crew, the photographer and myself.We took her through the Aegean Sea and round the Cape Maleas on a fresh gale, 40mph wind, and we spent the afternoons sipping on tea and listening to Andreas playing his bag-pipes.We talked about lifelong dreams gone astray and those lucky few who get to live them. He told me that he was even more fortunate than that: His wife Monica (the ship’s cook), and his 5 year-old son Philip, stood by him. They still do - on the bridge, by the helm, down by the galley, into the wind or in the calm seas.This summer, they plan on spending time between Greece and Italy, and when fair weather gives way to the winter they will sail to the Carribean. They will never be without company. People from all over the globe will join them, spend a few days on the boat, learn how to sail on a special training programme and share one man’s dream that has become a living reality for many. When I was a little boy, I wanted to become an astronaut. Perhaps, I shouldn’t have given up on that, so easy… i

40 insider athens | July-August 2011

You too can sail on La Grace as a cadet, or simply as a tourist, depending on how much you want to contribute, learn and sweat. Prices start at 300 euros per week, meals included.

La Grace can sail on a skeletal crew of four, but it would be preferable to have ten skilled sailors, to do the job right.

It took about 2 years to build La Grace. She was launched on December 5, 2010, in Egypt, and subsequently christened at the port of Faliro, Greece, on May 1, 2011.

Captain Josef Dvorsky can be contacted via: e-mail (josef.dvorsky@atlas.cz) or mobile phone (00-420-604-269-192) The ship’s website in Czech and English is www.lagrace.eu

insider athens | July-August 2011

41

Hydra

Stephanie Bailey travels to the islands and picks out a few highlights on the summer arts calendar

A

s the summer begins, art imitates life in the mass exodus from the city into the world of mainland Greece and its islands, as summer art programs and festivals across the country prepare to do what Greeks do best (for better or for worse): Express themselves.

Starting with Hydra, Greece’s traditional artisan retreat, where cars have no place and donkeys control the island’s cobbled streets, Dakis Joannou’s Deste Foundation’s spectacular series of summer events presents an exhibition featuring video work Black Mirror (2010) by Douglas Aitkin at the Deste Foundation’s Slaughterhouse to 25 September. While on the island, take the time to explore The Hydra School Project’s 12th annual exhibition, curated by Dimitris Antonitsis, Mash-Up, which runs to 18 September and features a juxtaposition of jewellery and photography through the work of photographers Konstantinos Athanasiou, Jeffrey Apoian, Mark Borthwick, Anthony Goicolea, Dirk Peuker, Juergen Teller and Natasha Papadopoulou and jewellers Elena Votsi, House of Waris,YATUZ, Christophe Graber, Persephoni and Konstantinos Skarmoutsos.

Hydra has a long history of artist presence, from artist Nikos Hadtzikyriakos-Ghikas to poets George Seferis and Odysseas Elytis, as well as Henry Miller, Leonard Cohen, and creator of Jim Morrison’s iconic headstone Medlin Mikulin. Interestingly, when Morrison’s tombstone in Paris was defaced to the point that it needed replacement, his father placed a headstone that reads: Kata ton daimona eaytoy, Greek for “True to his own spirit.” Hydra is definitely an island that lives up to that.

Like Hydra, Spetses is a traditional island of Greece’s shipping elite, and has played host to a number of notable artists and writers, from Eleni

42 insider athens | July-August 2011

Poros

Summer Arts Boukoura-Altamura, a plucky, aristocratic 19th century female painter who dressed up as a man in order to study art in Italy from 1848, to John Fowles, who taught at a boarding school, the Anargyrios and Korgialenios School of Spetses, where he wrote seminal work, The Magus, published in 1966. On having been offered a job at a French and a Greek school simultaneously, Fowles famously noted; “Of course, I went against all the dictates of common sense and took the Greek job.” Whilst taking in the delights of this noble island, last year anointed with the Greek royal wedding of exiled Prince Nikolaou and Tatiana Blatnik, stop by the old port, where gallery Akroproro will be showing contemporary ceramic art

by Keti Anastasaki to August 3. For those with Greek-speaking offspring, perhaps the trip might be coupled with participation in the 10th Summer Camp Seminar organised by the National Network for Theatre in Education titled All The World is a Stage, 25 to 30 August.

Meanwhile, on the green island of Poros, the only island in Greece referred to in the masculine, the artistic focal point is positioned on gallery Citronne, where painter Yiannis Adamakos will be exhibiting works from 16 July to 12 September (which follows sculptor Kostas Varotsos’ exhibition). For the more musically-inclined, the 3rd International Summer Piano Academy will be taking place on the island throughout the month of August, where students are taught by Professors from around the world, themselves famous soloists and accomplished musicians. It is open to candidates of all nationalities and ages.The International Piano Festival will run concurrently.

Sailing away from the Saronic gulf to the Cyclades, take a moment to visit the northernmost Cycladic island Andros, yet another of those

Doug Aitken, Black Mirror, 2011 Video Still Copyright: Doug Aitken Inc.

insider athens | July-August 2011

43

CITRONne Gallery Poros

noble islands rooted in shipping (in 480 BC Andros provided ships to the Achaemenid King, Xerxes I). Famous for its low-key and guardedly local atmosphere, it is said that the wealthy families of the island petitioned to have the main ferry port moved from the Chora to the other side of the island in a bid to protect the coastline from the eyesore of passenger ferries.With a rich history as a Venetian protectorate that lasted until the Ottomans took over in 1566, the island is a living museum, with the ruins of its past visible at every turn. On a more modern level, the Museum of Contemporary Art (of The Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation) will be showing the work of 20th century painter Nikos Hadtzikyriakos-Ghikas, including some 70 paintings, 21 drawings and 12 sculptures from 3 July to 25 September.

Over on Naxos, the 11th Naxos Festival Less is More, marks the beginning of the festival’s second decade. Judging from a rich programme that includes musical and theatrical events ranging from jazz concerts to classical recitals and puppet theatre, the festival has certainly come of age, and is without a doubt one of this summer’s most dynamic arts events. The festival’s visual arts exhibition at the 17th century Bazeos Tower promises to be a devastatingly good one. Entitled DRAWER XXII Decomposed Pictures (July 23 to September 2, 2011), it presents decaying photographs from the archives of many well-known Greek photographers such as Nicholas Tombazis, Dimitris Harissiades, Pericles Papahatzidakis, and Nelly’s.

Andros

44 insider athens | July-August 2011

As organisers Stelios Krasanakis and Mario Vazeos explain: “Our targets now are the essential, the necessary, the attainable. At last we can separate our desires from our needs. If we try, we can give meaning to every-

Summer Arts

Contemporary ceramic art by Keti Anastasaki

thing with the simplest of means, just by investing more of ourselves.

All sectors, and especially the cultural and artistic fields, have begun moving in this direction. Artistic creation has never been exclusively associated with times of economic abundance; in fact, in times of crisis, artists have flourished because they had to focus on the spiritual. Less consumption, then, and more spirituality, less entertainment, and more self-awareness and measure.”

Naxos is not a bad place to contemplate such heavy thoughts. It is home to the famous Portara – the remains of an ancient temple to the sun god Apollo, as well as to the golden citrus fruit and the Citron liquor taken from its juices. Citron was made notable by the production of the Vallindras distillery, established in 1896, and in part responsible for the island becoming the main exporter of Citron to Russia, Austria, France and the USA by the late 19th century. The old Vallindras distillery-museum in Halki is well worth the visit, and the perfect end to a day of artistic discovery on a rugged, mountainous island.

Yet despite the beauty of the Greek summer, and the unfailing ability of the islands to calm even the most restless of souls, there are indeed things we cannot run away from, even in the cool arms of the sea. Presenting the second installation of Navigating in the Dark at the mosque of Ibrahim Khan, Fortezza, on Rethymno, Crete, until August 27, Kalliopi Lemos does not allow the issues of man to escape amidst the haze of summer. An investigation into the current spiritual crisis brought on by world events, Lemos takes a moment to contemplate Greece’s rich history as a gateway between East and West, and the geo-political experiences the country has had in its long and tumultuous history.

Yes, summer is here, but it comes with unprecedented challenges present at every level of society. But as most people say, the Greeks are a resilient people; the islanders even more so. Perhaps a healthy mix of art and island life coupled with a sobering dose of reality might do everyone good this summer. Of course, if visual arts doesn’t cut it and the festivals

insider athens | July-August 2011

45

Summer Arts

Rethymno

don’t appeal, there are always the many museums, restaurants and other gatherings or local festivals you might discover along the way, from the honey festival on Kos, to the August 15th festival marking the assumption of the Virgin Mary that takes place throughout the country, and particularly legendary on the island of Ithaki. Half the fun about the islands is the many unexpected discoveries you might encounter as you explore less-trodden paths.

And if all else fails, there is also the summer sun, the silver light of the moon, the soft lapping of the Mediterranean Sea, the murmur of cicadas, and the view of the infinite horizon to contemplate. Some might say those incredible views that rise and fall from the sea make up the true artistry of Greece. i For more information on all exhibitions visit the following websites (in order of appearance): Deste Foundation: www.deste.gr The Hydra School Project: Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11:30 to 13:30, and 19:30-22:00 Tel. 693 8024554 Akroproro: www.spetsesgallery.blogspot.com. Tel. 2298072643 Summer Camp Seminar : All The World is a Stage : http://www.artminds.gr/2011/06/10i-theatriki-kalokairini-kataskinosi-seminario/ CITRONne: www.citronne.com 3rd International Piano Festival: www.porospianoacademy.gr Museum of Contemporary Art : Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation, Andros: www.moca-andros.gr The Naxos Festival: www.naxosfestival.gr Vallindras Museum : Tel. 22 85 02 22 27 Kalliopi Lemos: www.kalliopilemos.com

46 insider athens | July-August 2011

Bazeos Tower Naxos

Mother and child classic serving tray available at Vitra

Smoke trilby with bead trim

by Accessorize Havaianas special graffiti edition, available at Olga Patsea & Co

Oxford in Panama H canvas and calfskin, a cross between a boot and an open-toe sandal

by Hermès

Handbag Flamenco 30 in nappa by Loewe

48 insider athens | July-August 2011

Santos-Dumont sunglasses with brown polarising photo chromic lenses, brushed champagne-gold finish and brown sharkskin nose piece by Cartier

DĂŠclaration - woody spicy fresh with cardamom and cedarwood

by Cartier

Ditsy floral print wooden fan by Accessorize

Belt in Clemence Taurillon cut from a single piece of leather that rounds the waist like a racetrack by Hermès

insider athens | July-August 2011

49

Hand made bracelet by Apriati

Illuminating bronzing oil and SPF 15 sunscreen body mist. Available at Sephora

Make up Forever professional kits Natural Eyes and Smoky Eyes - make up with Aqua products by Sephora

Accessorize, Ermou 42, Athens, 210 331 7780 Apriati, Stadiou 3, Tel: 210 322 9183

Cut this coupon and avail of 20% off on all exclusive brands at Sephora’s stores in Greece.

50 insider athens | July-August 2011

Cartier,Voukourestiou 7, Athens 210 331 3600 Hermes,Voukourestiou 1, Athens 210 323 3715 Loewe, Golden Hall, Marousi, 210 683 6230 Olga Patsea & Co.,Vas. Paulou 102-104, 210 899 2034 Sephora, www.mysephora.gr Vitra Showroom, Leof. Kifisias 220, Halandri, Tel: 210 674 6601

insider athens | July-August 2011

51

Jean-Charles Métayer sets his sights on seducing Athenians to savour his creations at the Première

in Athens and Michel Roux of the Waterside Inn in the UK, all chefs with a penchant for creatures of the ocean), Métayer has taken on his role as Chef of the Première restaurant with the mission ‘of drawing more Athenians to discover a slightly different and subtle cuisine at an outstanding restaurant.’

Jean-Charles Métayer seems extremely young to have accomplished so much in so little a time. Having spent the greater part of his career in Greece, it is little wonder that it is here that Métayer feels most at home.

He speaks Greek without the trace of an accent (a tough achievement for most non-Greeks, but even more spectacular when you happen to be French) and his cuisine is imbued with the bounties of Greek nature.

Over the past years, Première has consistently been awarded with numerous gastronomy awards including the coveted ‘Golden Chef ’s Hat’ (Chrysos Skoufos), and is also included in the Michelin Guide. Métayer realises he has a lot of expectations to live up to but is confident that word of his culinary skills will spread quickly. ‘We used to have a steady stream of visitors who used to come to Elounda from all over Greece to savour our dishes’, he says of the restaurant he served at for eight long years.

From his favoured avgotaraho (which he expertly combines with avocado mousse) to the humble barbounia (red mullets), most of his dishes have a hint of a Greek element. Combining French flair to local ingredients, you’ll soon begin to discern just a suggestion of ouzo,Vinsanto or Muscade from Samos in most of his dishes.With a clear prejudice for seafood and fish, (not surprising as Métayer worked with Michelin chefs such as Jacques Le Divellec in France and Crete, Lefteris Lazarou of Varoulko

52 insider athens | July-August 2011

At Première, he is determined to have the same following line up to enjoy his cuisine as much as the view. In a renovation that extended the restaurant outdoors into a lounge and bar area, Première is quite clearly a restaurant that distinguishes itself from most of its rooftop counterparts in the city in more ways than one. The 360 degree vista is simply breath-taking. As Métayer puts it, ‘When the sun is up, the focus

Restaurant Review

Red mullets with squid ink cannelloni stuffed with shrimp mousse and egglemon sauce, rosemary Ingredients for 4 people

For cannelloni

10 red mullets 2 carrots 1 ½ onions 20 grams celery 1 tsp. tablespoon tomato paste 100 ml dry white wine Rosemary

200 grams flour 3 egg yolks 1 egg 15 ml olive oil 15 ml milk 5 ml cuttlefish ink

For the filling 500 grams shrimps from Symi, peeled 10 gr. Spring onions 1 lemon

is on Première’s terrace, after sundown, the Acropolis lights up and holds centre-stage as the city lights come on.’

The restaurant, as indeed the Athenaeum InterContinental, also doubles up as a venue for collector Dakis Joannou’s contemporary art collection.

George Lappas’ Red Man vies for attention with Christodoulou’s vivid paintings.The art immediately lends the restaurant its sophistication and elegance but does so without being intimidating.

And the food is, as Métayer promises,‘interesting’.Whilst fish dominates, Métayer also has a weakness for cured meats from the Mani and Crete.

He is particularly fond of the strong, mature taste of arpaki, fumed and marinated meat, typically Cretan fare. Pastourma also finds its way into Métayer’s culinary creations.

As much a destination to take business clients to as well as an incredibly romantic locale for a quiet dinner for two, this restaurant perched on the 10th floor offers it all – contemporary art, a jaw-dropping view, award-winning cuisine and a wine list that carries the best of Greek and international labels. i For reservations at Première, call 210 920 6000. www.athens.intercontinental.com

Slice mullets into slivers and use the fish bones to make the sauce. Wash, clean and cut vegetables into small cubes. In a pan, sauté the vegetables and rosemary with a little oil on low heat, until golden brown.Add the bones and heads of the mullet and then add the wine. Stir well until the wine evaporates, then add the tomato paste. Continue stirring until you achieve a homogenous mixture and add just enough water to cover the mixture.After you let it boil for about ten minutes, strain the mixture and keep the broth.

Dough for cannelloni In a bowl put flour, eggs, olive oil and stir slowly adding milk. Knead the dough and add the cuttlefish ink and a little salt. Leave the dough for about an hour in the fridge to rest. With a pasta machine, open the sheet to number seven and cut into10x10 squares. Then cook the cannelloni in salted water for several minutes.

In a skillet, sauté the prawns with chopped shallots and place a spoonful of mixture in each leaf of the cannelloni.

To prepare the avgolemono sauce, beat an egg yolk with an egg-beater in a saucepan over low heat, with lemon juice and add a little water gradually until you get a thick and fluffy mixture. Pour in the avgolemono sauce over the cannelloni with shrimp and wrap.

In a skillet, sauté the red mullet. Serve the dish, adding a little sauce and place the wrapped cannelloni on the other.

insider athens | July-August 2011

53

George Manikis of the Hilton suggests two refreshing seafood recipes to herald the summer

Squid Ink Spaghetti Ingredients for 4 people: • 500 grams spaghetti with cuttlefish ink • 320 grams lobster • 40 grams salmon fish roe • cress for serving • salt & pepper • 250 grams clams • 50 grams onions • 50 grams carrots • 30 grams celery

add the clams. Cook until clams open. Leave out the unopened clams.

• 30 grams fennel • 1 litre water • 50 ml white wine • 5 grams fresh thyme • 1 bay leaf • 120 ml cream • 15 grams butter • 2 sheets of gelatin • 2.5 grams agar-agar

Preparation: Lets start with the broth. In a saucepan add 1 litre of water, onions, carrots, celery and chopped fennel, white wine, thyme and bay leaf. Allow to boil until you can smell the delicious aroma of the vegetable. Set aside and

54 insider athens | July-August 2011

For seafood froth: Take 370 ml of the broth along with 120 ml cream and 15 grams of butter and place in a saucepan to boil. Then remove from heat and allow to cool just below the 60 C. Add gelatine sheets that have been softened in cold water, and agar-agar. Strain the mix through a fine sieve (chinois). Once strained, we place a siphon and add an ampoule of nitrogen. Stir before each use.

In a saucepan of boiling salted water, add the spaghetti. At the same time sauté the pieces of lobster with a little butter in a frying pan, add salt and pepper and remove from heat once cooked. Then remove the spaghetti, drain and add butter.

For setting the dish: Using a fork or a tong, roll the spaghetti and place it in the centre of the plate. Add the clams (4 per portion), the pieces of lobster, a little brick and complete the dish with a bit of seafood foam and some cress for colour.

Gastronomy

Red Snapper Putanesca Ingredients for 4 people: • 4 fillets of Red porgy 240 gr. each • 4 baby eggplants • 250 grams potatoes • 15 grams saffron • 200 grams cherry tomatoes • 100 grams spinach • 20 grams dill • 8 grams Shiso sprouts

little water and stir continually to obtain a smooth and fluid texture.

• 8 grams mustard sprouts • 80 grams sun-dried tomatoes • 10 grams anchovies • 8 grams capers • 8 grams sliced olives • 40 ml olive oil • 5 grams pine nuts • salt & pepper (optional)

Preparation: Lets start first with the puree. In a saucepan of salted water boil potatoes.

Once boiled, pass it through the mill, add saffron, salt and pepper and a

In a blender, add the sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies, capers, sliced olives, pine nuts and beat to a paste. Cut the aubergines into 2 cm pieces, grease and cook on the grill.

Dry the fish fillets, add salt and pepper and place them on the side of the skin in a hot nonstick skillet with a little bit of olive oil. Once the skin becomes crispy, turn carefully, and cook the other side.

Set the plate, adding a green note that with any green vegetable you might have available. Blanch the spinach, drain and whip in blender adding olive oil at the end.

Place the fillets on the plate, a spoonful of the puree, the grilled eggplant, a pinch of putanesca, a few roasted cherry tomatoes, a few caper leaves and sprouts.

insider athens | July-August 2011

55

Sofa Bar not only fulfils the canons of location, location and location but also matches its exquisite view overlooking the Saronic Gulf with cocktails that carry the whiff of summer in a long-chilled glass

B

artender Alex Kalpakis of the Sofa Bar has one of the most enviable jobs in the world – that of concocting cocktails that have just the right blend of freshness and chutzpah. His alchemy experiments not only result in refreshing quenchers for a hot summer day, but are such a treat to behold that one is convinced that the sequel to Sex and the City 2 should be shot here so that the gorgeous foursome can move on from their banal cosmos and manhattans to Kalpakis’ world of espresso martinis and caipirinha sorbets.

Unlike most watering holes,The Sofa Bar is not a dimly lit drinking den.

Here, natural light streams in through its seven-metre high bay windows

56 insider athens | July-August 2011

Gastronomy

until 9.30 p.m in the summer and is perfect for a quick sundowner with a long lost friend or for an ice-breaker with a new business partner.The bar is open until 2 in the morning, which means that the bartenders here have been privy to many an Athenian secret!

Kalpakis matches his suggestions to the mood and disposition of his guests – his signature cocktails, Star Cocktail and Wings of Love are designed to amp up the romance while the Tutti Frutti is for a lighthearted fun evening in the sun.

The Sofa Bar’s minimalist modern design and its deep, comfortable

leather couches are so inviting, that once you’ve surrendered to its deep recesses, its hard to fight the inertia to get off them! If you haven’t headed to the Westin to have a drink here before, Insider would highly recommend it as one of the top ten must-dos while in the city. And if you think the experience might burn a hole in your pocket, the cocktails here are so reasonably priced that you’re more than rewarded by the view and the service. i The Sofa Bar,The Westin, Astir Palace Resort, Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210 890 2000

insider athens | July-August 2011

57

A serendipitous find in the heart of gritty Exarchia, Yantes has a soul and an innovative menu based on wholly or mainly organic ingredients

I

n the heart of Athens’ anarchy district, Yantes sits incongruously as an oasis of tranquility where genteel conversations take place around hearty, organic meals under century-old trees piercing through the roof into the azure Athenian sky. Its easy to walk past Yantes’ entrance as the walls of the restaurant are covered in graffiti. ‘Every fresh coat of paint attracts even more graffiti spray’, says co-owner Dimitris Farmakis, ‘but then that lends the place its unique Exarchia character as well.’

58 insider athens | July-August 2011

Once in the restaurant, it feels like you’re in an extension of the National Gardens. Done up in shades of island white and pastel blue, and framed by wisteria and jasmine,Yantes (which is Greek for ‘wishbone’) provides a much needed reprieve from the heated debates on the streets and the soaring temperatures.

The location itself has a storied past. The now-enclosed exterior of the restaurant were stables that kept horses belonging to the magnificent archontiko next door (now painted in a rather lurid shade of raspberry).

At some point the stables gave way to a primary school. It had a brief existence as a bar and since 2000, it houses Yantes, the first organic restaurant in Greece. It is flanked on the other side by the Riviera open-air cinema.

In an intelligent mix of celebrating the old while embracing the new,

Restaurant Review

collapsible glass doors stand cheek by jowl to large marble wash basins.

The attention to detail is evident in everything – from the black chrome cutlery to the large circular water fountain by the restrooms.

Run by the unlikely duo of the young and very enterprising Dimitris Farmakis and Thanassis Karyamis, a die-hard green activist, Yantes has a very welcoming vibe.

I ask Farmakis, the one deciding factor he looks for in restaurants and he says, ‘It’s the quality of the food and the staff. If the service is perfect but unengaging, the restaurant will be simply a boring place to have a good meal. People like to go out to places that also exude warm vibes.’

The menu itself has an imaginative mix of Mediterranean fare including vegetarian spring rolls, herb cutlets, liver with caramelized onions, organic pork with orange sauce - all presented with a dash of elegance.The dishes on the menu are marked as being wholly or at least significantly organic.

Farmakis adds that some of the dishes will even have the official organic certification in place shortly. Everything here is home-made, including the bread which has a very interesting texture.The crust is crunchy and reminiscent of one’s grandmother’s pies.

We even tried the Organic Nutty Cola produced by Whole Earth Foods in the UK and imported by Oikologiki Agora in Greece. I must admit,

that despite my reservations, the cola seemed to accompany the meal perfectly. But where chef Alexandros Kardassis (of Athiri fame) outdoes himself, is in the desserts department. His coffee parfait with rose mousse and verrine with strawberries, yoghurt and basil sauce are simply exquisite and though seemingly an unlikely combination of tastes and textures, both desserts have an incredible lightness and novelty to it.

The restaurant’s exhaustive wine list also includes the full range of organic wines to complete the ‘back to nature’ experience.

Yantes attracts Athens’ arty, intellectual crowd and as Farmakis puts it, ‘appeals to people from the neighbourhood who live and love Exarchia for what it is.’ Farmakis himself lives further down the street while Karayamis lives on the same street and runs a café just around the corner.

Outsiders like us from the fringes of Exarchia can well understand the magnetic charm of the place that has been drawing regulars for over a decade now.

At a very reasonable 20 euros per head for a truly satisfying meal,Yantes is a great way to reintroduce oneself to this very quaint, often misunderstood quarter of Athens. i Yantes.Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia.Tel: 210 330 1369

insider athens | July-August 2011

59

Insider guide

refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki

ARGENTINEAN ORO TORO Vouliagmeni

ASIAN Golden Phoenix Halandri Saipan Halandri

BAR - RESTAURANTS Apsendi Halandri BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq CENTRAL Kolonaki Eclipse Kolonaki ENTEKA Glyfada KITCHEN BAR Faliro & Halandri FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni NIXON Kerameikos SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki

FISH RESTAURANTS 7 THALASSES Kolonaki Ai Nikolas Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus FISH BAR Glyfada ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia Kollias Syngrou LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus Psaroma Halandri THALATTA Gazi TO VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS Almyra Halandri DOURAMBEIS Piraeus KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro SPONDI Pangrati TARTARE Glyfada VARDIS Kifissia

GOURMET KUZINA Thissio Eclipse Kolonaki Essence Kifissia Fuga Mavili Square Funky Gourmet Kerameikos

P-Box Kolonaki, Kifissia Polly Magoo Metaxurgeio Première Syngrou

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka ATHIRI Kerameikos CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri EDODI Acropolis ELAEA BISTROT Acropolis FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia LIANA’S KITCHEN Glyfada MANI MANI Acropolis MARE MARINA Faliro PLATANOS Plaka PROSOPA Gazi RIFIFI Exarhia TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL 1920 Halandri Meat Square Glyfada & Halandri

INDIAN Indian Masala Thissio ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Maroussi

ITALIAN AGLIO OLIO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri DA LUCIANO Vouliagmeni DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SALOTTO Glyfada IL SEGRETO Voula MEZZA LUNA Vouliagmeni MULTI 22 Syntagma Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi Novo Romantico di Antonio Halandri PIZZA POMMODORO Kolonaki SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE COO Kolonaki DOSIRAK syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia

60 insider athens | July-August 2011

INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia

KOSHER KOL TUV Monastiraki

LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia

MEDITERRANEAN AIOLI RESTAURANT Glyfada BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki CAFE TABAC Vouliagmeni Dalí Halandri DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki Essence Kifissia FATSIO Pangrati GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni GB CORNER Syntagma GRILL ROOM Vouliagmeni IDEAL RESTAURANTOmonia KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati MAGIREVONDAS Kolonaki MEIDANIS Monastiraki OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri Olio by Portofino Ag. Paraskevi Omikron Kifissia PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RATKA Kolonaki TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki TO POLITICO Glyfada ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi LA TIENDA Glyfada Santa Fe Halandri

PUB RESTAURANTS BAYERN BIERHAUS MICROBREWERY Glyfada BEER ACADEMY glyfada BIER HAUS Vouliagmeni MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada

ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka GALAXY BAR Hilton IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KILIZA Glyfada NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki ZAHOS Vouliagmeni

SPANISH MI SUENO Kolonaki PUERTA DE ESPANA Pangrati SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS AMMOS Piraeus FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni MAMACAS Gazi MARGARO Piraeus SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton

THAI ROYAL THAI Kifissia

WINE BARS CELLIER LE BISTROT Syntagma L’Enoteca Halandri Whispers of wine Maroussi

Westin Kids Club

MEZEDES AND OUZO ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka SOLON Piraeus

MULTI ETHNIC Altamira Kolonaki

POLYNESIAN KONA KAI Syngrou

Register Now!

210.890.2000

insider athens | July-August 2011

61

Insider guide SHOP

Salero Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Children Damigos

central Athens Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere

Prosopa

Dimitrakopoulou 40 Tel: 210.922.0317 Toyshop with a wonderful selection, including wooden designs

Meg.Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Gifts

Thalatta

Greece is for Lovers

Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

Ilias Lalaounis museum

Acropolis

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Almaz

Mani Mani

Skoufias

Falirou 10. Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere

Tramezzini

Yantes

Hatzichristou 8, Tel: 210.921.1770 All day italian café bistrot with gourmet street food

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients. 20 Euros per person

Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Barouge Andronikou 4, Tel: 210.342.4994 A staple of Athenian nightlife

Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13 , Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41, Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services

Art Rat Records Zoodohou Pigis 48, Tel: 210.384.8001 Various vinyls

Medusa Tattoo Kallidromiou 85, Tel: 210.825.4593 Athens’ finest since 1995

Asimenia Bakery

Vinyl Microstore

Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves

Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more

Edodi

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

Veikou 80 , Tel: 210.921.3013 Fresh ingredients presented at your table, then cooked to perfection

Yesterday's Bread

DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space

Ginger Ale Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Vox Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811, One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

EAT Butcher’s Shop

EAT

Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Makriyanni 19-21 , Tel: 210.921.2280 Greek chic coffee and tempting snacks beside the Acropolis Museum www.elaea.gr

Fasoli

Mamacas

Emanouil Benaki 45 , Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment

Gelato-Café

Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare

Elaea Bistrot

Makriyanni 19-21, Tel: 210.923.8124 Homemade ice cream and waffles

Kavouras

62 insider athens | July-August 2011

Kitrino Podilato Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830

Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails

Grande Dame Persefonis 23, Tel: 210.341.6412 Chic bar serving elaborate champagne cocktails

Nipiagogeio Elasidon & Kleanthous 8 Tel: 210.345.8534, For late-night dancing to funky electronic music

Villa Mercedes Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing

Live Greek Music Athinon Arena Pireos 166, Tel: 210.347.1111 The latest in live Greek music acts

Hilton

EAT

SHOP

Gazi

Greece is for Lovers

Exarhia

Dirty Ginger

EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantine Restaurant

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

central Athens

To Varoulko

Jack in the Box

DKNY

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours.

Guaranteed value for money

Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more

Solonos 8, Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear

Marie Chantal Boutique

Elina Lebessi

Antiques

Spefsippou 11, Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses

Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world

Kilim Hali

Mouyer

Ermenegildo Zegna

Milos Garden

Vlassis Neandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

Kolonaki

Milos

Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world

Beauty & Cosmetics Apivita

Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Fashion Atelier Loukia Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer

Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

CHILL

Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe

Bespoke Athens

Bespoke Athens Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518, Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools, pilates studio, cardio classes and weight-training

Carouzos Kanari 12 , Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other top-flight brands

EAT Funky Gourmet Paramythias 13 and Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 2727 Haute cuisine in art deco interior

Kanari 8, Tel: 210.362.7768 Menswear from Armani, Boss and Allen Edmonds brogues

Kalogirou Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei

Kathy Heyndels Patriarchou Ioakeim 21 Tel: 210.729.9966 Greek label selling barely-there gowns and basics with a twist

Coach Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style

Deux Hommes

Athiri

Kanari 18, Tel: 210.361.4155 Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns. www.deuxhommes.gr

Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Diesel Skoufa 3, Tel: 210.362.2748 A treasure trove of denim, and all the hip accoutrements to go with it

Nixon Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Burgers, a private cinema & an artsy crowd. Open for brunch on Sundays at noon

Incrocio

Frattina

Hiltonia Health & Wellness Club

Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

Hugo Boss

Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids

Free Shop

Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars

Bambineria

Galaxy Bar

Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits

Giorgio Armani

Children

DRINK

Kerameikos

SHOP

Dior Boutique Hiltonia

Voukourestiou 18-20, Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion

insider athens | July-August 2011

63

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

La Perla

Paul & Shark

Spefsippou 14, Tel: 210.729.9720 Lingerie to flaunt

Anagnostopoulou 6, Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Lacoste

Preview

Solonos 5, Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Puma Concept

Linea Piu

Skoufa 62, Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports

Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel

Luisa Skoufa 15, Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more

Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3, Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero

Nike Tsakalof 34, Tel: 210.363.6188 Trainers, tracksuits and other swooshmarked sports paraphernalia

Kanari 17, Tel: 210.361.0516 International sportswear for all ages

Rere Papa

Thalassa Collection Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses

Vlassis Holevas Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167, Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Bakeries & Patisseries

Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts

Cake

La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France

Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33, Tel: 210.723.7656, A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories

Jewellery Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Folli Follie

Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Kylix Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels

Wine Garage Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Gadgets Observatery Attitudes

Christofle

Fanourakis

Cava Anthidis

Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

EAT

Fleria

Food & Wine

Observatory Attitudes

Home

Flowers Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697

Octopus Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

central Athens

Irodotou 15, , Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Fresh Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

Restaurants 7 Thalasses Omirou 11, Tel: 210.362.4825 Fresh fish with refined service

Al Milanese Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning

Altamira (Multi-ethnic) Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210 361 4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Altro Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food

Boschetto Evangelismos Park, Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739, Greece's high-street export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux

Cafe Boheme

Liana Vourakis

Coo

Pindarou 42, Tel: 210.361.7705 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here

Dinokratous 1, Tel: 210.725.4008 A Mykonos favourite now in Athens

Lylian Syrigou

Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties

Anagnostopoulou 12, Tel: 210.361.3350 Handcrafted bijoux and one-off designer pieces. www.liliansyrigou.gr

Magia Haritos 18, Tel: 210.724.0697 Ileana Makri's silver jewellery amid eclectic pieces from New York

Oxette Skoufa 37, Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Dakos

Eclipse (Bar restaurant) Alopekis 21, Tel: 210 364 1545 Fabulous cocktails and creative Mediterranean cuisine by Yiannis Baxevannis

Filipou Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Frame

Gifts

Ozzi

Benaki Museum Gift Shop

Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous , Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens

Van Cleef & Arpels

Freud Oriental

Pindarou 42, Tel: 210.331.1107 The jeweller of the international jetset

Xenokratous 21, Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting

Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045, Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits

64 insider athens | July-August 2011

Inbi

P-BOX

TGI Friday’s

Iraklitou 21, Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion

Haritos 24, Periscope hotel Tel: 210 7298556, Simple ingredients, special flavours in a setting designed by Theodore Zoumboulakis

Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq.

Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce!

Jackson Hall Milioni 4, Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings

Kalamaki Kolonaki Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Pizza Pommodoro

DRINK

Alopekis 9, Tel: 210.729.6500 Great Italian specialties

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Prytaneion

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails

Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Central

Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, , Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Ten Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town

W Kanari 24, Tel: 697.270.0712 Private seating areas, speciality cocktails & exclusives events

CafĂŠs Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout

central Athens CHILL La Prairie Day Spa Kanari 24, Tel: 210.360.1550 High-tech beauty treatments in a clinical setting

Mavili Sq

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

DRINK Balthazar Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki Dorileou 6, Mavili sq.

Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Flower Dorileou 2, Mavili sq.

Tel: 210.643.2111, Fun, funky and affordable watering hole

Peros Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Tea To Tsai Magirevontas ti Mesoghio

Scala Vinoteca

Vissarionos 9, Tel: 210.338.97.41 Authentic home cooked food with mediterranean flavors for just 15 euros per person

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Mi Sueno

Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.6271 Tapas & other Spanish specialties

Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065.

Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

To Tsai

Showroom

Square Sushi

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites

Papadakis

Ta Kioupia

Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek classics with refined touches

Ouzadiko

Soutsou & Likavitou, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Baraonda

insider athens | July-August 2011

65

Insider guide EAT Fuga Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210 724 2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

St’Astra

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis

Kol Tuv

Normanou 7 Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

EAT Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Normanou 4, Tel: 210.524.4049 The only kosher restaurant in Athens serving traditional shabat meals

Meïdanis Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Savvas Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Thanassis

Karavitis

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

EAT Polly Maggoo

Brachera

DRINK

Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory

Orea Ellas

Café Avyssinias Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

SHOP Antiques Darousos Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

Pandrosou 36, Tel: 210.321.3842 An eclectic cafe & bookshop

Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

EAT

Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks

Magemenos Avlos Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings Antinoros 42, Tel: 210.725.8666 Spanish cuisine & live music

Spondi

SHOP Department Stores

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

Hondos Center Omonia Square, Tel: 210.528.2800 Cosmetics, perfumes, luggage, clothing, & much, much more

EAT Ideal Restaurant

Arapian

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor

Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats

Bacaro Sophokleous 1 & Aristidou Tel: 210.321.1882, Lavish Italian and contemporary dishes

Bahar

66 insider athens | July-August 2011

Korres

Puerte de Espana

Food & Wine

Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Beauty & Cosmetics

Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Fatsio

To Kouti

SHOP

Cucina Povera

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes Mitropoleos 69, Tel : 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 1120 Gourmet cuisine in a postmodern and industrial setting. New hot spot for the trendy

Monastiraki

Doris

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Omonia

Metaxurgeio

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

Miran

central Athens

Pangrati

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Athinaikon Bahar

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

Spondi

Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Plaka

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr SHOP

Home

Antique stores

Notoshome

Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

Food & wine Mesogaia

Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore

EAT Cantuccio Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment

Diporto

Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

Gifts

Kouzina Cine-Psirri

Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

Nara Nara

Ochre & Brown

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Platanos Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens

Scholarheio Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Ydria Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

SHOP Fashion Christoforos Kotentos Sachtouri 3, Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Books

Gadgets

Eleftheroudakis

Public

Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Gifts

Stadiou 28, Tel: 210.322.2160 Mostly French books and small selection of English fiction

Argalios

Attica

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Soul

Fokas

Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves

Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children

SHOP Accessories Bag Stories Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

Antiques Antiqua

Vassilis Amalias 2-4, Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

Beauty & Cosmetics MAC Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books

Kauffman

Department Stores

DRINK

Syntagma

2 Mazi

Psyrri

Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music Karaiskaki 26,, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing

EAT

central Athens

Stock House & Travel Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories

Fashion - Men’s Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Flowers Dromoloulouda Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece

Food & Wine Aristokratikon Karageorgi Servas 9, Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940

Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils

Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

Home Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Jewellery Apriati Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

insider athens | July-August 2011

67

Insider guide Gofas

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens

Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Folli Follie Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Boutique Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Cellier Le Bistrot

Explorer’s Lounge

Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines

NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Marathianakis

Dosirak

Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Zolotas

Nikis 58 & Kydathynaion Tel: 210.322.2839 Traditional Greek cuisine combined with modern elements

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

Shoes Spiliopoulos Ermou 63, Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!

To Ergastirio to Baxevani

Far East Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

Furin Kazan Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

GB Corner

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:

Club Eat See

DRINK

EAT

Kessaris

Chopard

central Athens

George Economou collection at the new municipal gallery in Metaxourgeio Spondi, 2 star Michelin restaurant in Pangrati Cibus for Greek cuisine and Acropolis view in the Nat.Gardens Varoulko Michelin star with gourmet fish cuisine in Gazi Papadakis good island cuisine in Kolonaki Vanilla Club at Kanari 24 Villa Mercedes at Andronicou & Zafeiri 11, Rouf Messiah Rebirth at Karneadou 25 in Kolonaki Baraonda, Tsocha 43, Ambelokoipi

68 insider athens | July-August 2011

Hotel Grand Bretagne Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Multi 22 Ermou 116 & Leokoriou Tel: 210.331.6766 Italian fare served in a neoclassical house

Noodle Bar Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

Parliament Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Paul Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

T Palace King George Palace Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.322.2210 Sophisticated atmosphere for mingling & people-watching

CHILL GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments

by E’SPA,Valmont & Algoane

Holmes Place Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400, Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping

Syngrou

Zolotas pendant in gold with diamonds

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Peacock Hotel Hera, Falirou 9, Tel: 210 923 6682 Traditional food with an inventive dash and breathtaking Acropolis views

Kollias

Syngrou Ave. 303 Tel: 210 940 8620 Diverse excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

central & Southern Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Plous Podilatou

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210 923 2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Ak. Koumoundourou 42 Tel: 210.413.7910 Sumptuous seafood & mouth-watering deserts on the waterfront

Kona Kai Athens Ledra Marriott, Syngrou Ave. 115, Tel: 210 930 0000 Polynesian, Teppanyaki and Sushi cuisine in an original luxury setting

Café Zoe

Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays Tel: 210 920 6655

Vassilenas

Première

Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

EAT Indian Masala (Indian) Ermou 129, Tel: 210 321 9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki

Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kuzina Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

Piraeus

SOUTHERN ATHENS EAT Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084. Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

Zefyros

Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

DRINK

Food & Wine

Big Apple South

All about Whisky

Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere

Vas. Georgiou B' 10 Tel: 210.968.1191, Specialty shop with a large selection of single malts, books, & anything to do with whisky

Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

EAT Ache Kypriou 57, Tel: 210.894.2949 International cuisine & delectable deserts

SHOP Books

Aioli Restaurant Artemidos 9, Tel: 210.894.0181 Mediterranean cuisine with an excellent “secret” seafood sauce

Eleftheroudakis Lazaraki 27, Tel: 210.325.8440 Book superstore with a large selection of English titles

Amigos Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting

Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery

Fashion

Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine

Enny di Monaco

Iguana

Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers

Beer Academy

Ensayar Donna

Beirut

Kyprou 55, Esperidon Square Tel: 210.894.3034 Top lines from leading designers with an English touch

Saki Karayiorya 13, Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment

Obervatory Attitudes

Bereket

Kitchen Bar

A. Panagouli 17, Tel: 210.894.2113 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

Jewellery

Le Petit Sommelier

ZerTeo

Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Ak. Dilaveri 15, Tel: 210.407.8861 Playing disco & techno tracks until 6am

N. Zerva 14, Tel: 210.898.0121 International cuisine in a cozy setting

Istioploikos Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Faliro

Thissio

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel : 210 920 6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

DRINK

Glyfada

AiNikolas

EAT Il Tinello Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking

Iskandar

Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian cuisine

Far East Lazaraki 61, Tel: 210.894.0500 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

insider athens | July-August 2011

69

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Kiliza

Vincenzo

Konstantinopoleos 13 Tel: 210.894.4648 Delicious kebabs & decadent deserts

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

La pêche Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.894.1620 Creative seafood dishes combining Greek & French techniques

Meat Square (Grill) Lambrakis 63 & Ag. Nikolaou, Tel: 210 961 1160 Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Babae Posidonos 88, Tel: 210.894.1629 Beachfront dancing all night long

Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

Cafes Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

Cosi

Il Segreto

Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture

Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace

Nest Café Bar

CHILL

Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors

Seiza

Ithaki Stunning view, live piano music and chef Clessienne’s sea-inspired cuisine Lambros Combines waterfront freshness and the casual atmosphere of a traditional Greek fish tavern.

Attica Mall One-stop mall in the heart of the city-centre Golden Hall 41.000 sq meters of shopping therapy hosting 131 fashion brands Scuba diving at Athina Diving a dive resort on the beach at the 38km on the Athens-Sounio road Sailing to Aegina just 45 minutes by motor boat for an island experience

Did you know: .… the Lake of Vouliagmeni is about 50 cms above sea level and is replenished by the hot springs beneath it? A small freshwater lake fed by underground currents seeping through the mass of Mount Hymmetus, it maintains a constant 24 degrees celsius temperature all year long and functions as a year-round spa.

70 insider athens | July-August 2011

Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design

The House Project Posidonos 58A, Tel: 210.898.3577 A beach house turned lounge with all the amenities of a home.

Live Music Thalassa People's Stage Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.2979 Live Greek acts in a club atmosphere attracting a young crowd

Voula

Sip

Zen Moorings Great for coffee or a meal by megayachts in the Vouliagmeni marina En Plo Meeting place for a coffee, meal or drink in Vouliagmeni bay Matsuhisa Athens Pre-dinner cocktails to an assortment of sushi for a true omakase experience

Do Eat

The concierge of the Arion, A Luxury collection Resort & Spa in Vouliagmeni recommends:

EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78, Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste

Dvlcis in Fvndo

Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian

Genovese Vas. Pavlou 99, Tel: 210.895.8400 Italian eats al fresco

Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Vari Sports Club Vari-Koropiou & Kalamatos 1 Tel: 210.899.0048 www.varisportsclub.com

Vouliagmeni

La Casa Di Giorgino

Southern & Northern Athens

EAT Café Tabac Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food

Da Luciano Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.2217 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Al Fresco The Westin, 40, Tel: 210.890.1709, Enjoy a romantic meal of creative Italian cuisine

Grill Room

Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1794, Mediterranean & seafood flavours on a breathtaking veranda, in the Astir complex

Ithaki Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service

Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals

Southern & Northern Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Mezza Luna Orpheos 2, Tel: 210.967.1046 Chic Italian restaurant

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Oro Toro Varis-Koropiou 73, Tel: 210.899.4514 A taste of Argentinian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere

Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting

Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices

Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

DRINK En Plo Posidonos 4, , Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Island 27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3809 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf

Sofa Bar

NORTHERN ATHENS

Novo Romantico di Antonio

Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala

EAT

25th Martiou 21, Tel: 210 689 6891 Authentic Italian cuisine with a modern twist

Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies

Da Vinci

Saipan

Il Salumaio di Montena Poleone

K.Varnali 9, Tel: 210 685 0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Milan based company selling high quality produce

1920

Sorpresa Italiana

Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210 600 0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Nanninela Peloponnissou 13 Tel: 210 600 5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Olio by Portofino Ag. Ioannou 63, Tel: 210 639 1666, Mediterranean flavours in a chic interior

EAT Apsendi Kifissias 250-254 & Serres Tel: 210 671 7890 Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

L’Enoteca Pendelis 133, Tel: 210 689 0238 Choice of 600 wines to accompany memorable meals

Almyra Filikis Eterias 39, Tel: 210 6819109 Refined seafood and magical summer garden

Dalí Kifissias 336, Tel: 210 685 4004 Multi-ethnic cuisine with original suggestions in arty set-up

CHILL

K.Varnali 6,, Tel: 210 689 2015 Delightful gastronomic tour in a relaxing atmosphere

Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100

Sokratous 23, Tel: 210 683 9348 Imaginative parade of seafood and fresh fish

SHOP

Stefanidis Finest Foods Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos

Beauty & Cosmetics

Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Nyhi-Nyhi

Vinifera

Kifissias 230 Tel: 210.623.2824 Stop by for a quick mani-pedi

Fashion

21 Kifissia Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport parafernelia

Gap Kifissias 328, , Tel: 210.623.1571 Casual American fashion

Vassilis Zoulias Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

Food & Wine Aristokratikon Argyropoulou 8, , Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates

Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

EAT Acqua Azzurra Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Apla 135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes

Barceloneta Kifissias 267, Tel: 210.801.3448 Spanish cuisine in a fun atmosphere

Berdema Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor

Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210 685 9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Golden Phoenix

Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000

Psaroma

Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Santa Fe

The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

Arion Spa

Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210 681 3029 Accent on meat in an elegant setting

Kifissia

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Halandri Ag.Paraskevi

Maistrali

Leof. Pendelis 85, Tel: 210 682 5017 Asian cuisine and sushi bar in luxury environment

Kitchen Bar

Meat Square Ethnikis Antistaseos 9-11, Tel: 210 683 1300, Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Matsuhisa Athens

insider athens | July-August 2011

71

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Northern Athens

Common Secret

Nargile

Tike

Aneton

Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambiance

Harilaou Trikoupi 27, Tel: 210.808.4418 Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

Dos Hermanos

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas

Vardis

El Taco Bueno

Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

DRINK

Jaipur Palace

Dragoumi & Andrianou 28 Tel: 210 623 3900, Gourmet cuisine with Mediterranean influences by chef Christos Markopoulos in a cool urban setting

Piazza Mela

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis

Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of

Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes

Prytaneion

Mediterranean fare

Golden Phoenix

Royal Thai

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Gourounakia Kifissias

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous deserts

Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters

Ichthyes

Salumaio di Atene

Semiramis Restaurant

Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Kastelorizo

Shogun

Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning

Meat Me HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna

The Mall

72 insider athens | July-August 2011

Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails

Divine Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions

Menta CafĂŠ Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Ag. Konstantinou & Themidos Tel: 210.805.2762 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Leptes Gefseis Fine French food at affordable prices Pindou 22, Pefki, Tel: 210.802.4817

Mauzac Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this cafĂŠ, bar, restaurant a must

Oinopathia

Maroussi

Essence

SHOP Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

EAT

Telemachos Barbeque Club

Altamira

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210 612 8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375, Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine

Pausa Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210 617 9051 Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT HOTEL

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

METROPOLITAN

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.Tel: 210.890.2000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115.Tel: 210.930.0000

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25. Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.928.0100

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000

ATHENS LIFE GALLERY

NJV athens plaza

GRANDE BRETAGNE

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space.

New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93.Tel:210.920.6000

Where modern architecture finds its expression among Zen gardens and ethnic elements.

30 ultra-modern rooms and suites. Avenue 103 restaurant trendy Pisco Sour Bar. Two pools, full-service Ananea Spa. Thisseos 103, Ekali.

Tel: 210.626.0400. www.bluegr.com Crowne plaza

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400 NOVOTEL

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza.Tel: 210.921.5353

Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers.

Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50.

Tel: 210.727.8000, www.cpathens.com

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis.

Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.Tel: 210.337.0000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq.Tel: 210.333.0000

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.891.1100

ATHENS HILTON

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-ofthe art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000, www.hiathens.com

The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700 www..novotel.com Royal Olympic

Holiday Suites

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000, www.holiday-suites.com

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities. Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210 9288400, www.royalolympic.com SEMIRAMIS

KEFALARI SUITES DIVANI CARAVEL

508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views.Vas. Sofias 46.Tel: 210.728.1000

situated close to major tourist attractions with , rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows.

Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.Tel: 210.628.4400

insider athens | July-August 2011

73

partner hotels SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

TwentyOne

Herodion

COSTA NAVARINO The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

Brand-new airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities.Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata.Tel: 210.354.4000

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521. www.twentyone.gr

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

A CATEGORY

Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832 HOTEL ELECTRA

AVA HOTEL & SUITES

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon.

Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki.Tel: 210.729.0711 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka.

Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka. Tel: 210.325.9000, www.avahotel.gr

Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort’s low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

PERISCOPE HOTEL

BEST WESTERN ESPERIA PALACE HOTEL

In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI

In the heart of the commercial and historic centre of Athens. The restaurant Athinaios, serves gastronomic delights in an elegant setting. Stadiou 22. Tel: 21­­­­­0.323.8001

Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.7200, www.periscope.gr

The Romanos Resort boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.

Santorini

Philippos

MYSTIQUE SANTORINI

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni.Tel: 210.922.3611-4

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia.Tel. 22860 81786

CORAL HOTEL

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests.

Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11,Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.892.9000. ww.themargi.gr THE WESTIN ATHENS

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40,Vouliagmeni.Tel: 210.890.2000

The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441

VEDEMA, SANTORINI

Fresh Hotel

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki. Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous. Tel: 210.524.8511-6.

74 insider athens | July-August 2011

Would you like TO see your hotel LISTED here?

CONTACT US at: ads@insider-magazine.gr

Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori.Tel. 22860 81 796

AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086

COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964

Commercial Office spaces Regus Tel: 210 727 9000 Global Business Services Tel: 210-8764 876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000

Driving Schools in English Denis Kasimatis - Driving School

Zografou, Papagou, Ilissia, Psychiko, Cholargos and Goudi - Tel: 210 778 3157 210 779 6981 Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Athens Tel: 231 072 9092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 Paleo Faliro - Tel: 210 988 8098 / 6997 722 777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 11, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210 574 4895 / 210 576 9190

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING

Relocation Agencies

Travel plan Tel: 210 333 3300 www.travelplan.gr Amphitrion Tel: 210 900 6000 Meg Alexandrou 7 & Karaiskaki, www.amphitrionholidays.gr TravelPlanet24 Tel: 211 107 9684 241, Syngrou Ave. & 2, Alikarnassou 171 22 Nea Smyrni, Athens www.travelplanet24.com Mid-east Travel Tel: 211 211 8888 Vas Sofias 105-107 / www.mideast.gr

Allied Pickfords Tel: 210 610 4494 Mourouzi 7, Athens Athens Relocation Centre Tel: 210 96 50 697, Zakynthou 10, Attica Movers Tel: 210 922 7221 19, Syngrou Ave Celebrity International Movers 102, Kapodistriou Ave , Tel: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Tel: 210 800 3510, Ag. Saranta 32 Nea Erithrea, Orphee Beinoglou Tel: 210 9466100 27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, GR-19200 Elefsina, Omega Transport Thesi Kyrilos , 19300 Aspropyrgos Tel: 210 947 5500 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210 4599530

MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES ?

35.000 readers get the best of Greece each month.Subscribe to Insider and never miss another issue! send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@ insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634 or 210.721.3450

Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel:Â 210.778.3698 www.executiveservices.gr Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541

Travel Agencies

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

useful information

French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210 339 8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210 368 0900 British Council 17 Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210 369 2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens Tel: 210 3634117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens Tel: 210 3661000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213 017 8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission [28 Oktovriou] 47 Tel: 210 369 2333, 210 524 2646 ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AZERBAiJAN Skoufa 10.

Tel: 210.363.2721 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270

BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4.

Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 26. Tel: 210.725.2574 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei.

Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10.

Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4.

Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5.

Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3.

Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25.

Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16.

Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7.

Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.4161 Kazakhstan Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Perikleous 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49.

Tel: 210.729.4356

insider athens | July-August 2011

75

useful information

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174

Paediatric Hospitals

EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi.

Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

Private Hospitals Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr

76 insider athens | July-August 2011

EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El.Venizelou 162, Kallithea.

Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 www.ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El.Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1,Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus.Tel: 210.451.9411-9

PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Tel: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.612.5001-2 heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist.

Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou Tel:210.897.6276. www.heartline.gr

General and cranial osteopathy

SYLVAIN GATEAUD Osteopath (France, UK) MKDE- C0 ( France) HP (Germany).

Energy management.

Karaiskaki 42, Pallini.

Tel: 210 60 33 622 M. 6937 20 44 72 sylvain.gateaud@hotmail.co.uk www.whyosteopathy.com

English media

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www. centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.). Tel: 210.641.6600

Newspapers The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini The local Athens News comes out Fridays.

Radio Antenna 97.2 FM news at 8.25am, Flash Radio 96.0 FM 8.55am, 3pm and 8pm daily.

ERA public radio 91.6 FM for bulletins at 5am and 9am, full news coverage at 9.30pm.

Schools

Greek Language

Emergencies

UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1.

Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91.

Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169

Health

LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38.

Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei. Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.729.4780 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7. Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6.

Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Marathonodromon 71, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Tel: 210.677.5122 THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230

The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece 210 7015-242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 3301455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi , Tel: 210 6122706

useful information Road Assistance ELPA: 104 Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210 523 9939 www.dei.gr Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202. www.eydap.gr

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr , Tel: 210 99 89 000 Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177 ww.kep.gov.gr

French kindergartens

Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Tel: 210 322 71

Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 L’Air des Contes 11, Cycladon, Glyka Nera, Tel : 210 600 3196 Le Castelet 18 Gortinias, Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 7760

Weather Attica, Tel: 148 www.hnms.gr

Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210 677 3803

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel) Tel: 210 72 89 640

Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210 801 1428

Money

Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

Universities University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210 323 6647 DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi , Tel: 210 600 9800 ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A,Vouliagmeni Tel; 210 896 4531

Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210 808 8008

English kindergartens The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210 682 7629 Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210 961 8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93,Vari Tel: 210 965 3985 Kifissia Montessori School Ellinikon Stratou 5, Kifissia Tel: 210 620 7481 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210 801 2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni Tel: 210 967 1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6,Voula Tel: 210 895 9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8,Vari Tel: 210 965 6800

O mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210 603 2527

Italian kindergartens Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210 202 0274 Il Mulino magico Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 3148

Libraires

American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel; 210 725 9301

International Kindergartens

International Schools

St Catherine's British Embassy School Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210 282 9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi Tel: 210 891 7000 American Community Schools of Athens Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri , Tel: 210 639 3200 Campion School Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini Tel: 210 607 1700 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas Tel: 210 604 7722 International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210 623 3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211 300 9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210 228 2720 German School in Athens Homatianou & Ziridi, Maroussi Tel: 210 619 9261 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou,Vrylissia Tel: 210 682 0566

Post Phone

German kindergartens

British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17 Tel: 210 363 3211/5 American Library Masalias 22 (4th floor) Tel: 210 363 8114

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code. To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks

American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Tel: 210 723 6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychiko Tel: 210 671 4628

Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor) , Tel: 210 362 9886 French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Tel: 210 362 4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Tel: 210 362 0270

!

advertise in our listings,and reach thousands of customers

email us at ads@insider-magazine.gr

Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16 , Tel: 210 360 8111 Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Tel: 210 522 9294 EU Library Vas. Sophias 2, Tel: 210 724 3982 National Library Tzavella 25, Tel: 210 382 0657

insider athens | July-August 2011

77

see & do Art galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Agalma Troyman, 11635 Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., 106 75 Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Badminton Theatre Olympiaka Akinita, Goudi 157 73, Athens, Tel: 211 101 0020 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio, Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.9744 B&M Theoharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, 10671 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 360 7598 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Vas. Georgiou B 17 - 19 & Rigilis Str. Athens 10675, Tel: 210 9242 111-3 Fizz gallery Valaoritou 9c, Athens 10671 Greece, Tel: 210 360 7598 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens 10671, Tel: 210 364 0215 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.2050 Gialino Music Theatre Sigrou 143, N. Smirni, Athens Tel: 210 9316 101-4 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st.

11471 Athens, Tel: 210 643 9466 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 www.yakas.com K-Art Gallery Sina 54, 106 72, Athens, Greece Tel: 211 401 3877 Kalfayan gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki,Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573 ww.gallerykourd.gr

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos. , Tel: 210.348.0000.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

78 insider athens | July-August 2011

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos.

Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502 www.spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 www.history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311 www.benaki.gr

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027.

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. www.hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 www.frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 210.722.8321 www.cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio.

Tel: 210-346.1981. www.herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni.

Tel: 210.922.7260. www.lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. www.jewishmuseum.gr Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi, Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953. www.nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043, www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Just for kids

Tel: 210.322.9705

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali.

Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for e1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden.

Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”.

Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory.

Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries.

Irodou Attikou Street.

Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum e3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour.

Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. e2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330.

Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed.

Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. MonSun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES

Attractions & Sites

ORGANISED TOURS

Pallas Theatre Skoufa 77 & Staikou 2, Kolonaki Athens, Tel: 210 364 0783 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.323.8757 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens 104 31, Tel: 210 322 1335 The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, 115 28 Athens, Tel: 210-7235857 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Tsatsis Project/ Artforum 12 Mitropoleos st. & Venizelou PC 54624 Thessaloniki, Tel: 231 025 7552 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, 105 52 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 331 9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulakis Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 7, Syntagma , Tel: 210.363.4454

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, www.allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, www.gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621 www.childrensartmuseum.gr

Summit U The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, www.summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

getting around

Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around

LIMOUSINES

Public transport

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120 Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (e1) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 6e.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport To and from Syntagma Square (bus X95, 70 min. approx.), Ethniki Amyna metro station (bus X94, 50 min. approx.) and Piraeus (bus X96, 90 min. approx.). Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board.

Buses leave every 10-15 minutes.

Fare is e3.20 and the ticket is valid for 24 hours on buses, trolleys and metro. For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro.gr.

For info on trains see www. proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002 www.ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (Egaleo-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

tram Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

TAXIS from the airport cost about e20 to Syntagma Square, e25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of e1 added to the meter.

Sea ports Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries

Airport

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr.

Car rental

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 Austrian Tel: 210.960.1244 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Gulf Air Tel: 210.322.0851 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 KLM Tel: 210.998.0333 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 SAS Tel: 210.353.0373 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2

Ferries Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700 www.superfast.com Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel:801 11 75 000

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus.

Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus.

Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Alimou & Poseidonos, Alimos.

Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula.

Tel: 210.895.2212, 210.895.6733 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki.

Tel: 210.985.0122-8

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130

insider athens | July-August 2011

79

athens citysales mappoints For central Athens points, see i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street

NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M.Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V.Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road Athens-Lamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E.Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street

PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag.Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA : Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street

SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA : Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO : NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS : Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag. Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis : 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square

www.mysephora.gr For central Athens stores, see on map ASPROPIRGOS Filis 100 & Bouboulinas, Tel: 210.558.0989 ERMOU Ermou 24 Tel: 210. 331.3167 & 325.7744 KALLITHEA Thisseos & Davaki, Tel: 210.956.5959 - 956.5446 KIFISSIA Kassaveti 6 Tel: 210.623.1741 & 623.1742 KORYDALLOS Taxiarhon 110A, Tel: 210.569.5270 569.5998 THE MALL, Notios Paradromos Attikis Odou, Tel: 210.630.0125 & 630.0126 AVENUE Kifissias 41-45, Tel: 210.610.9739 & 610.9740

80 insider athens | July-August 2011

GOLDEN HALL Kifissias Av. 37A & Sp. Louis, Tel: 210.683.7343 PANGRATI Ymittou 110 & Hremonidou, Tel: 210.751.8005 GLYFADA A. Metaxa 33-35 , Tel: 210. 894.3378 & 894.5884 KOLONAKI Milioni 2, Tel: 210. 361.2666 & 362.9925 NEA MAKRI Marathonos Av. 117, Tel: 229.409.9661 PERISTERI Ethnikis Antistaseos 12, Tel: 210. 571.0755 PETROU RALLI Petrou Ralli 97, Tel: 210. 569.6596 & 569.7316 PIKERMI 21oklm. Marathonos Av. , Tel: 210. 603.9987 PSYCHIKO Kifissias 210, Tel: 210. 677.5527 & 674.0178 VRILISSIA Pentelis Av. . 72, Tel: 210. 810.1971 & 810.1972

city map

Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications

insider athens | July-August 2011

81

KA L E I DOS COP E

Novotel Athens Pool

The Westin Athens, Astir Palace Resort

Arion Resort & Spa, Astir Palace Resort

Athens Ledra Marriott Pool

St Georges Lycabettus Pool

Sofitel Pool

Semiramis Pool

Hilton Pool

Athenaeum Intercontinental Pool

City Oases As Athens empties out for its annual summer exodus to the islands, the few Athenians who stay on to work and the intrepid tourists who brave the sun still have a few options to beat the heat. The city’s pools offer a much-needed break from the stress of working in an overheated climate (literally and figuratively) and is a great way to get in shape. Check for special summer discounts at the hotel’s websites.

82 insider athens | July-August 2011

insider athens | July-August 2011

83

84 insider athens | July-August 2011