MATERIALS
The Nobleness of Waste
Fennel peels and zinc dusts
Interview by Joël A. Grandjean
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rpanization (in reference to Yvan Arpa) is an off word that is circulating in the trendy circles of patent communicators.
Unusual buzz, ethical buzz Ever since he used fragments of steel from the Titanic in his watches, ever since he made fossilized dinosaur poop (coprolite) a selling argument, the rebellious Simon Templar of watchmaking has inspired the whole sector: burnt rubber from victorious Pirelli tires in Roger Dubuis watches, cigar leaf at Delacour, Jura slate at Paul Picot, antique gun barrels at François-Paul Journe, cheese at H. Moser & Cie... And the list goes on! Today, environmental awareness is pushing for less futile recycling. According to the guidelines that the owner and director of Panatere has fixed to himself, we go further than just the watch case. «We worked on each component and the watch straps were part of our global vision» says Raphaël Broye. And his inventory is not farfetched: «fennel scraps, apple peelings or A grand cru classé on the wrist? This is currently being studied and is now possible by using grape waste from the same vineyard
Arpanization (in reference to Yvan Arpa) is an off word that is circulating in the trendy circles of patent communicators. residues, wood chips and sawdust, grape stalks and seeds...» He is echoed by Nicolas Freudiger, co-founder of ID Geneva, the first circular watch brand: «Our packaging is a recycled cardboard shipping box, with a mushroom interior protection. At home, a 100% compostable box and when traveling, a grape leather pouch». Science and technology coming into play Beyond the fennel, which is particularly popular in the world of biodegradables because of its stringy texture, the search for such bracelets does not avoid the famous watchmaking tests in use: accelerated aging, resistance to various types of sweat... This is a quest full of trials and tribulations which, according to Jérôme Cavadini, head of the Panerai Manufature, involves science when it is a matter of making a sapphire crystal from glass scraps or luminescent indexes from SuperLuminova residues.
Raphaël Broye: «there can be nobility in many wastes»
Titanium is also part of this ongoing quest, notably when a company in Saint-Georges de Mons, France, collects titanium scrap from the aeronautics industry to supply Panerai with EcoTitanium®. And the same battle for 100% recycled materials is being pursued for rubber, brass, carbon and even gold. As Raphaël Broye confirms, «100% recycled titanium should be ready in October 2021. Already today, an alloy from the washing of the fumes from our garbage bags is available in many measurements.» And he concludes, «Other revolutionary materials are coming...» n #JournalSuisseHorlogerie JSH 2021 / #02
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