TK23 Eastern Lights by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 23

K I T C H E N

E A S T E R N

L I G H T S

SINGAPORE

The Essential Eight 八角哲学

BANGKOK

Seeing Stars 星光舞台

SHANGHAI

Infini Artistry 厨「艺」无极

STARTER

Andrea Delzanno, Chef de Cuisine of Cucina at Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, presents a “cacciatore” style tuna tartare. “Cacciatore is a very traditional dish from Tuscany,” he explains, “which is often made with chicken or rabbit, but here we use Australian tuna. It features capers, olives, and a bitter salad of chicory, radicchio, and rucola with a lemon dressing that sets it off beautifully.”

DAVID HARTUNG

马哥孛罗香港酒店 Cucina总厨Andrea Delzanno精心巨献带有“cacciatore”风格的鲔鱼鞑靼。他解释道：「cacciatore是一种非常传统的托斯卡尼料理，通常用鸡肉或兔肉为主要用料，但这道菜用的是澳洲鲔鱼，另外更以酸豆、橄榄，及用菊苣、紫叶菊苣、芝麻菜与柠檬酱汁组成略带苦味的精致沙拉摆盘。」

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T A S T I N G 23

K I T C H E N

E A S T E R N

L I G H T S

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3915 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. C

Mark Hammons

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

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Barbra Austin

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Mamie Hsien Chen

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Jean Alberti

Chris Dwyer

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Andrea Lo

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Juliana Loh

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Lucy Morgan

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Babel Communications

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Chef Lanshu Chen explores the flavor of radish through sundry textures, including foam and a tender jelly, in her dish of pressed confit of foie gras, served on a plate decorated with delicate ink blooms. For more on how she pairs her elaborate creations with Legle France’s Infini collection, see page 30. 为搭配鹅肝酱，主厨陈岚舒对不同品种的萝卜纹理和味道进行对比探索，以便与盘子上层层晕开的水墨相互辉映。欲了解更多关于陈岚舒在法国丽固Infini無极系列中的精心制作，请翻至本刊第30页。

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CMY

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. This issue, Eastern Lights, celebrates some of today’s leading names in Asia’s vast and exciting universe of food and drink – eminent tastemakers, restaurateurs, and chefs. We start in Hong Kong by introducing a local ceramist, whose handcrafted tableware designs are commissioned by such clients as Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo, Tom Sellers’ Restaurant Story in London, and The Krug Room at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. Next, two entrepreneurs based in Hong Kong share the story behind their inspiration in linking the worlds of fine wine and modern art to create their coveted annual collections of limited-edition vintages. Then one of Hong Kong’s most successful restaurateurs, who combines sharp business acumen with a talent for intriguing concepts and distinctive design, talks about her creative processes in opening a whole series of one-of-a-kind venues. In Bangkok, we meet with some stars of this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, gaining insights from top-tier chefs of China, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines, as well as from Joan Roca, head chef of the first-place winner on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. In Shanghai, we discover how a seven-course tour-de-force menu from one of Taiwan’s master chefs finds perfect visual expression on custom-designed tableware from one of France’s most renowned makers. And finally we go to Singapore, first to explore the highly personal culinary philosophy of a prodigious talent and then to find out how four of the city’s famous chefs came up with dishes to narrate the centurieslong growth of a small German ironworks into one of the world’s leading brands of home appliances. Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Ceramics That Speak • 12 Vintage Art • 14 Barons & Masters • 18 Seeing Stars 24 Classy and Quirky • 30 Infini Artistry • 38 The Nth Degree • 50 The Essential Eight

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CONTENTS

58 Flash of Brilliance • 62 Dream Team • 64 Alsatian Spring 68 Perfect Balance • 74 Four Hands, One Heart • 76 Merry Month of May 80 Wine Appreciation • 84 Less is More • 86 Three Takes on Tanqueray 94 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 96 D E S S E R T

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INSPIRED LIVING

会说话的陶器

ceramics that speak The work of a member of Hong Kong’s thriving arts community is embraced by some of the world’s leading chefs. BY CATHERINE SHAW

•

LOK MING FUNG, a local ceramist born in Britain and trained at Central Saint Martins, London’s famous college of arts and design, was delighted when she received a commission from Uwe Opocensky, the celebrated executive chef at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. He needed a custom container for his “flowerpot” salad to be served at the hotel’s Mandarin Grill + Bar. Turning to nature for inspiration, Lok created a roughly weathered terra-cotta pot with a subtle glaze and an earthy handwrought texture that serve to set off the chef’s fresh bouquet of organic vegetables and edible “soil” to potent effect. Working from a studio in Chai Wan, Lok takes a studied approach in designing each piece and meticulously handcrafts her limited production, often working in quantities of as few as ten. Her other work has included an installation of abstract-design tiles at the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, handmade tableware for British chef Tom Sellers’s Restaurant Story in London, and a custom series of plates and bowls for Mercedes Me in Hong Kong. She is currently working with Singapore chef Edward Voon on ceramics designs for a new restaurant to open this September in Kowloon Bay. Of her part in the process of creative collaboration with talented chefs, Lok asks, “Shouldn’t the tableware be as carefully thought out and prepared as the food?” 冯乐敏出生于英国，毕业于伦敦知名的中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院，现为香港陶艺家。她很荣幸接受香港文华东方酒店驰名中外的行政总厨 Uwe Opocensky 委托，定制一只专门用于盛装他在文华扒房 + 酒吧精心巨献的「花盆」沙拉的容器。冯乐敏从大自然汲取灵感，烧制出质地粗糙斑驳的红土陶盆，仅用上些许釉彩，搭配质朴的手工纹理，为这道有机蔬菜与可食用「泥土」组成的新鲜花束，增添强烈的视觉效果。她的工作室位于柴湾，对于产制陶器她选择精心钻研，每件作品均经过深思熟虑， ↑↑ Flowerpot for Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong Grill + Bar ↑ Cocoa bean lidded vessel for Chocolate Academy, Tokyo

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由她亲手一丝不苟地设计与捏制，常常生产数量不到十件。她的其他作品包括为东京丸之内四季酒店设计的抽象瓷砖装置艺术、在英国伦敦为名厨 Tom Sellers 的 Restaurant Story 餐厅手制的餐具，以及为香港 Mercedes

Me 量身打造的一系列碗盘。目前她正与新加坡名厨 Edward Voon 合作，为今年九月即将在九龙湾开幕的新餐厅设计陶瓷器皿。当问及她在与名厨们共同发挥创意的过程中扮演的角色时，她反问：「餐具器皿的设计与制作难道不该跟食物一样经过细心雕琢吗 ?」

HDP PHOTOGRAPHY (FLOWERPOT ), LOK MING FUNG (COCOA BEAN VESSEL), JOHN ARANDHARA-BLACKWELL (BOWLS)

CERAMICS BY LOK MING FUNG

“Three Bears Porridge” pudding bowls for Restaurant Story, London

FOOD & ART

美酒艺术

vintage art

Arthur de Villepin

Thibault Pontallier

THE LANGUAGE OF OENOPHILES is a complex one, rich with evocative verbal terms that sometimes struggle to capture every subtlety of a fine wine’s character. But now this language has gained a new dimension – a visual one – with wine bottle labels that go beyond mere decoration to express the personality of the contents through art. Wine and art proved a natural match for the Hong Kong–based team of Arthur de Villepin and Thibault Pontallier. The pair met in 2010 when Pontallier, son of Château Margaux general manager Paul Pontallier, became the château’s brand ambassador in Asia. De Villepin, an art devotee with close connections to several famous names, says

that they both immediately saw a perfect opportunity to connect their two passions by setting up a unique business, which they named Pont des Arts after the famous bridge in Paris. While not the first to venture into visually creative wine labels, their initiative is unique in seeking to bridge cultures and generations by pairing a collection of specially selected fine wines with custom labels that employ original works of art to communicate the wines’ essential characteristics to buyers. Each year a limited collection of artand-wine pairings is released in partnership with noted artists and respected winemakers from Bordeaux and Burgundy.

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The inaugural collection was designed in collaboration with the late Chinese artist Zao Wou-Ki. “He was a master, renowned as the Asian Picasso,” says de Villepin of the longtime family friend, “and since he was French-Chinese and had lived in Paris almost all his life, he was the perfect bridge.” Adds Pontallier, “As a company based in Asia, we started with Chinese artists because it was the most logical thing to do, but we want to share artists’ work regardless of where they come from.” In 2012, the collection featured leading contemporary Chinese pop artist Yue Minjun, reflecting the sensibilities of the younger market for a more modern style of wines. And this June, the newest collection will celebrate the work of Miquel Barceló, one of Spain’s most prominent artists, whose paintings, sculptures, and ceramics have been shown at the Musée Picasso and the Louvre. Barceló’s iconic painting of a Spanish bullfight is perfectly paired with a special blend of old-vine grenache and syrah from the famous Chêne Bleu wine estate. As part of the vineyard’s tenth anniversary celebration, a limited edition of 1,000 bottles and 480 magnums has been produced bearing the artwork and a newly designed logo by Barceló. “The artists and paintings are always selected to complement the wines,” explains de Villepin. “For example, watercolors with fresh pastel notes are chosen for whites, while for a red, it’s usually a darker, more powerful painting. A buyer can gauge the qualities of a wine just by glancing at the art. It’s all about opening the bottle, tasting the wine, looking at the painting, and appreciating the match.”

COURTESY OF PONT DES ARTS (2)

A connoisseur of wines and a lover of art bring the two worlds together in their quest for beauty, pleasure, and quality.

METAL CHENG (2), MORGAN GROSSET (ROSE)

品酒行家使用的语言十分复杂，蕴含着激发情感的词汇，但有时仍难以到位地描绘葡萄酒微妙的特质。如今，此种语言发展出崭新的视觉面向，让酒标不再仅是装饰，而能透过艺术传达葡萄酒的个性。潘雅德与庞天宝于 2010 年在香港结识，在他们心中，葡萄酒与艺术本该浑然一体。庞天宝为玛歌酒庄总经理 Paul Pontallier 的儿子，亦为该酒庄的亚洲品牌大使；潘雅德则致力于推广艺术，且与众多著名艺术家私交甚笃。据他们说，两人一见如故，立即萌生结合双方热情的念头，决定共同开创一个独一无二的事业，并根据巴黎著名的艺术桥将品牌命名为「庞狄莎（Pont des Arts）」。虽然他们并非是在葡萄酒标上发挥创意的第一人，然而他们先挑选一系列顶级

佳酿，再分别搭配印上原版艺术品的酒标，以期将美酒精粹传达予买家的结合文化与跨世代的想法却绝对史无前例。每年他们与著名艺术家及波尔多和勃艮第地区备受敬重的酿酒厂合作，携手推出限量版、配合独特艺术包装的系列佳酿。首批收藏系列是与已故中国艺术家赵无极合作和设计的，他是潘雅德家族的世交。潘雅德说：「赵无极是位艺术大师，被誉为亚洲毕卡索。他是法籍华裔，大半辈子旅居巴黎，最能象征连接两种文化的桥梁。」庞天宝补充道：「我们的公司在亚洲，一开始理所当然便与中国艺术家合作。但我们最终想不分地域，分享世界各地艺术家作品。」 2012 年推出的系列主打当代顶尖中国流行艺术家岳敏君的画作，为葡萄酒增添了

时尚感，以反映年轻世代的市场需求。今年六月的系列酒款则将向西班牙最杰出的艺术家之一 Miquel Barceló 致敬，其画作、雕塑、陶艺曾在毕卡索美术馆和罗浮宫展出。 Miquel Barceló 的经典画作西班牙斗牛，恰可搭配产自知名蓝橡树酒庄的老藤格那希和希哈特殊混酿酒。为庆祝该酒庄十周年，庞狄莎推出限量版一千瓶普通容量与 480 瓶大酒瓶装葡萄酒，酒标上均印着该著名画作以及其新设计的标志。「挑选艺术家和画作的原则就是要搭配葡萄酒。」潘雅德解释道。「例如白酒适合基调清新柔和的水彩，红酒则通常适合色彩较深、意象更强烈的作品。买家只要一看画作，就能判断酒体的特性。重点就在于打开酒瓶、品尝美酒、欣赏画作，然后赞叹两者竟能搭配地如此天衣无缝。」 eastern lights

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载誉归来

barons & masters SIXTY-FOUR HORSES board a flight in Belgium, bound for the Hong Kong leg of the Longines Masters, the prestigious intercontinental show-jumping series. The elite of the competitions generally travel in pallets of three horses, though some of the more valued get “business class” accommodations for two. Despite the stable-to-stable journey of twenty hours, these are true road warriors, accustomed to long travel and ready to turn in peak performances in the Longines Grand Prix as well as the Longines Speed Challenge, the fastest event in the world. In addition to these center-stage equestrian events, the Longines Masters is an annual celebration of entertainment, gastronomy, and art that has become a fixture on the calendars of the three host cities. And from the star-studded Los Angeles scene, to a Paris after-party with two thousand on the dance floor until three in the morning, to a group of Hong Kong VIPs closing a private jet sale at the event, one man who has seen it all is Frédéric Mairesse, Managing Director at Champagne Barons de Rothschild. The brand only released its first nonvintage Champagne in 2009, but it has already been named official supplier of the Longines Masters for four years in Paris and three in HK and LA. And while Champagne Barons de Rothschild may be a relative upstart, it is backed by the wealth of experience of all three branches of the legendary Bordeaux family. “My importer invited me to visit him,” Mairesse recalls of his introduction to the Paris event, “and he said, ‘We drink bad Champagne there when we could be drinking yours!’ Our company is small, so we have to be precise and focused, and the Longines Masters matches are what we do perfectly.”

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RED DOG STUDIO

Mamie Chen learns how a young Champagne brand with an old family name is among the winners at the Longines Masters.

TASTING NEWS

Nighttime temperatures in coastal California dip into the high forties, but our pool is ode to typically warmed to seventy-nine degrees; the temperature differential propels an eerie column of steam up from the water’s surface, producing the spooky ambience of a werewolf movie. To draw on each other’s strengths for support--their fortitude helps me overcome my struggles while my swimming achievements provide them with a vicarious sense of victory. Yet we have learned to draw on each other’s strengths for support--their fortitude helps me overcome my struggles while my swimming achievements provide them with a vicarious sense of victory. My grandparents’ strength has also shored up my determination to succeed. As in swimming, life’s successes often come in small increments. Sometimes even the act of showing up at a workout when your body and psyche are worn out separates a great result from a failure. The difference between success and failure is defined by the ability to overcome strong internal resistance. My grandparents’ strength has also shored up my determination to succeed. I have learned that, as in swimming, life’s successes often come in small increments. Sometimes even the act of showing up at a workout when your body and psyche are worn out separates a great result from a failure. The difference between success and failure is defined by the ability to overcome strong internal resistance. This is a sample 250 word essay for use in spacing in the next issue of Tasting Kitchen magazine. Thank you very much.

夜间温度在沿海加利福尼亚浸进入高四十多岁，但我们的游泳池颂歌一般加热到 79 度 ; 温差推动从水面蒸汽了一个令人毛骨悚然的列，产生一个狼人电影的怪异氛围。借鉴对方的长处的支持 - 他们的毅力帮助我克服我的奋斗，而我的游泳成绩为他们提供了胜利的替代感。然而，我们已经学会了借鉴彼此的长处的支持 - 他们的毅力帮助我克服我的奋斗，而我的游泳成绩为他们提供了胜利的替代感。我的祖父母的实力也减轻了我的毅力。由于在游泳，人生的成功常常是在小的增量。显示了在当你的身体和心灵都累死了锻炼的，有时甚至是行为分离失败一个伟大的结果。成功与失败之间的差别是由战胜强大的内部阻力的能力定义。我的祖父母的实力也减轻了我的毅力。我了解到，在游泳，人生的成功常常是在小的增量。显示了在当你的身体和心灵都累死了锻炼的，有时甚至是行为分离失败一个伟大的结果。成功与失败之间的差别是由战胜强大的内部阻力的能力定义。这是一个简单的 250 字的文章中品尝厨房杂志下一期的间隔使用。非常感谢。

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RED DOG STUDIO (6)

TASTING NEWS

Mairesse was particularly interested in the Hong Kong leg. “When I joined in 2010,” he says, “I targeted the Asian market for development. The potential for this type of top-quality brand with a Chardonnay-oriented style and taste is huge.” The strategy has been a marked success, with Asia accounting for over 40 percent of their total bottle sales last year. Cross-relationships with brands like Longines and Hermès work particularly well in Hong Kong, where top Champagnes at events are a dime a dozen and the clientele is eager for interesting stories like that of Champagne Barons de Rothschild. But Mairesse has been careful not to grow the business too quickly. Volume and quick profits are not the goal when dealing with the Rothschilds – their nonvintage Champagne is aged over twice as long as the legal minimum. “Five years for you and me is fifteen for them,” says Mairesse. “When I showed my first projections, Éric de Rothschild remarked, ‘I’d be more comfortable if you didn’t go so fast. Remember, we spent a hundred and fifty years building up Lafite Rothschild. You can’t do the job in five years.’ And he was right.” Despite, or perhaps because of, the challenges, the Rothschilds have set their sights on creating an iconic blanc de blancs Champagne. When a consultant warned them that chardonnay grapes would be expensive, rare, difficult to buy, and long to age, Benjamin de Rothschild responded, “Okay, thank you, we’ll do that then.” With the composure that comes from long-term vision, the family will bide their time in acquiring vineyards in the grand crus villages, recognizing that this is a Champagne for their grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

“ Our company is small, so we have to be precise and focused, and the Longines Masters matches are what we do perfectly. 正因公司规模小，所以我们必须准确且聚焦，浪琴表马术大师赛就是我们能至臻完美的目标。“ FRÉDÉRIC MAIRESSE

六十四匹骏马在比利时登机，准备远赴香港参加享誉全球的洲际马术障碍系列赛事－浪琴表马术大师赛。运抵菁英赛马的机舱里，通常三匹参赛马会安顿在同一货板，某些身价较高的骏马则升等「商务舱」，两匹共享一块货板。尽管经历了二十小时挤拥的长途飞行，它们可是货真价实的路跑斗士，习于长途旅程，随时蓄势待发，等着在浪琴表大奖赛和被誉为全球速度最快赛事的速度挑战赛里一展身手，缔造巅峰表现。除了万众瞩目的马术赛事，浪琴表马术大师赛亦是三大主办城市一年一度集娱乐、美食和艺术的焦点盛事。从众星云集的洛杉矶开始，第二站巴黎以欢呼延续－两千人在派对舞池里狂欢至凌晨三点，直至最后由一众香港贵宾买下私人飞机，系列赛事终告圆满结束。当中法国罗斯柴尔德家族香槟首席执行总裁 Frédéric Mairesse 先生全都躬逢其盛。罗斯柴尔德家族品牌 2009 年推出第一支非年份香槟，就获浪琴表钦点为马术大师赛正式供应商，至今在巴黎已有四年，在香港和洛杉矶则为三年。法国罗斯柴尔德家族香槟看似以黑马之姿骤然崛起，背后其实是有传奇波尔多家族三大分支的丰富经验作后盾。忆起参与巴黎赛事的经验，Frédéric 说：「其实是进口商邀请我到访，他说『我们喝的香槟都不怎么样，早就该喝你们的！』我们公司规模很小，所以必须准确且聚焦，浪琴表马术大师赛就是我们能至臻完美的目标。」

Frédéric 对浪琴表在香港的马术大师赛尤其感兴趣。他表示：「2010 年赞助时，我们将目标放在开拓亚洲市场，这种顶级品牌，以夏多内为主体的风格与品味，肯定潜力无穷。」果不其然，这项策略大获成功，去年的亚洲瓶装酒销量占了整体销量逾四成。不仅如此，法国罗斯柴尔德家族香槟与浪琴表还有爱马仕的跨领域品牌合作在香港尤其成功，各种盛事均可见顶级香槟，而且客户对他们有趣的品牌故事津津乐道。然而 Frédéric 步步为营，避免事业版图扩张太快。他们的目标并非香槟数量与盈利一下子大增，反之，罗斯柴尔德家族的非年份香槟陈年时间比法定最短时间长两倍之多。Frédéric 解释道：「对你来说，可能陈年五年就足够，对我们而言则要十五年。我初次预估时间时，Éric de Rothschild 的评语是『我建议不要太快。记住，我们花了 150 年打造 Lafite Rothschild，你只想花五年酿造好收成是不可能的』，他说的没错。」尽管困难重重，或者说正因为挑战险峻，罗斯柴尔德家族将眼光放在酿制最经典的白中白极品香槟。曾有位顾问警告他们，夏多内葡萄价格昂贵、稀有、难买且陈年时间长，男爵 Benjamin de Rothschild 只回应道：「好的，谢谢你的建议。」在此长期愿景下，罗斯柴尔德展现出不同凡响的泰然自若，他们耐心地选购特级酒庄，因为他们很清楚，家族香槟是要留传给后代子子孙孙的。 eastern lights

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TASTING NEWS

S E E I N G S T A R S Jokes ran rampant that the previous evening’s Oscars gala in Hollywood was just a warmup act for the real celebration, the awards ceremony for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016 at the W Bangkok hotel. To the gathered array of stellar chefs from all over Asia, it certainly must have seemed that way. 场内不少人开玩笑地说，好莱坞的奥斯卡晚宴其实只是暖场，这天在曼谷W酒店举办的「2016 年亚洲50最佳餐厅」才是真正的星光熠熠。放眼全场，来自亚洲各地的星级大厨齐聚一堂，这个玩笑看来所言不假。

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PA U L PA I R E T No. 7: Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet No. 28: Mr & Mrs Bund Shanghai, China Imagine taking a boat out to sea, casting nets, and then grilling the fish immediately on the beach. That same fish at a restaurant, even if cooked with better technique, may not be as memorable or even taste as good. At his multisensory restaurant, Ultraviolet, Paul Pairet strives to recreate the sense of place around his food by presenting each dish in its best possible context through the use of still images, videos, music, sounds, and scents. Lobster is served while diners are immersed in a 360-degree video projection of waves crashing on a rock, with the thundering surges punctuated by seagull caws and a bracing ocean scent suffusing the room. “Everything that happens before you taste a dish influences your perceptions of it,” says Pairet. “We want to impact the mind before the taste – I call it pyscho-taste.”

第 7 名 : Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet 第 28 名 : Mr & Mrs Bund 中国上海想像自己扬帆出海、撒网捕鱼，然后立刻在海滩上烤鱼来吃的情景。同样的鱼，即使在餐厅用更精湛的技术烹调，也不见得比现烤更令人印象深刻或同样美味。Ultraviolet 是

Paul Pairet 创建的多重感官餐厅，透过以静态图像、影片、音乐、声响和香味等各式媒介来尽可能呈现出每道菜式的情境故事，重现所有围绕用餐的感官体验。龙虾上桌时，宾客正致身在海浪拍打岩

On taking back control

石的 360 度投影中，阵阵惊涛骇浪，不时穿

“I opened Ultraviolet because I wanted to serve at my best. I had to get rid of all the constraints and compromises that come from an à la carte menu where a table has four entirely different orders yet expects them all to get out within an acceptable ten to fifteen minutes. “To be able to cook in a single motion and serve each dish at its peak, I returned to the concept of table d’hôte, by which I impose the offerings and control the timing. With a twenty-course dinner, one of the most important aspects is the tempo. Every course must be served very nearly down to the second.”

插着海鸥的叫声，海水味弥漫整个房间。「品尝食物前发生的一切都会影响你的味觉。」「我们想进入味觉之前先影响心理 Paul 说道：认知，我称之为『心理味觉』。」

找回主导权「创建 Ultraviolet 餐厅的初衷，是希望尽我所能提供最上乘的服务。我必须摒弃所有单点菜单的限制，例如一桌点了四道截然不同菜色的客人，却指望能在很短时间内全部上桌。」「为了能专注做好一道菜并在最适当的时间端上桌，我回归套餐的概念，限制供应的餐点并掌控上餐时间。假设一场晚宴有 20 道菜色，最重要的就是节奏，每道菜的上桌时间只有毫厘之差。」

LIMELIGHT STUDIOS (4)

星光舞台

Meunière Truffle Bread from Mr & Mrs Bund Mr & Mrs Bund的独创松露原味面包

Picnic Chicken Ailloli from Mr & Mrs Bund Mr & Mrs Bund的野餐鸡肉佐蒜泥蛋黄酱

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TASTING NEWS

JOAN ROCA The World’s No. 1 : El Celler de Can Roca Girona, Spain For the past two years, the Roca brothers, Joan, Josep, and Jordi, have shut down their restaurant during August, taking their entire team on international tours that have included Mexico, Peru, Argentina, Colombia, Turkey, and the United States. In each place, they’ve worked closely with top restaurants, delving into local culture, products, and cooking techniques to glean what can be applied back home. They’ve adapted mole preparations from Mexico and embraced Argentina’s traditional parrilla , or grill, to such an extent that they flew an Argentinian architect to Spain to build an authentic one for their restaurant. The brothers have also embraced the responsibilities that come with fame through their support of social and environmental causes in the agriculture and food industries. Joan has traveled to Thailand to present the Chef’s Choice Award 2016 to Paul Pairet and also to participate in the Royal Project, an initiative set up by Thailand’s king to encourage the farming of crops that are a lucrative alternative to drug production.

On the Royal Project “From a culinary perspective, I’m looking forward to learning about the various types of produce they’re growing at the Royal Project. And in working with the Thai chefs, I’d really like to explore their methods of fermentation and curry preparation. “As a UN Goodwill Ambassador, I want to learn everything I can from this agricultural initiative and to see if this experience can be transferred to other locations to improve the agricultural practices and the market conditions for local farmers and producers.”

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Pumpkin Consomme with Green Tea 南瓜清汤与绿茶

DHARSHAN MUNIDASA No. 25 : Ministry of Crab No. 47 : Nihonbashi Colombo, Sri Lanka

全球第一名 : El Celler de Can Roca 西班牙赫罗纳过去两年，Roca 三兄弟 Joan、Josep 和

Jordi 都会在八月份关闭餐厅，带着整个团

Dharshan Munidasa, who is half Sri Lankan and half Japanese, gave his first Japanese restaurant in Sri Lanka the name Nihonbashi in honor of the Tokyo district where he was born and also because it means “Japan bridge” in English. “From day one, I aspired to bridge these two island nations that I proudly call home,” he says. Munidasa applies the Japanese philosophy of respect for ingredients to local Sri Lankan products and employs the techniques of both cuisines as appropriate.

队环游世界，他们走遍墨西哥、秘鲁、阿根廷、哥伦比亚、土耳其和美国等地，与

On local ingredients

各地的顶尖餐厅合作，考察当地文化、食

“Many Japanese restaurants around Asia are dependent on imported ingredients. But washoku [traditional Japanese cuisine] is about using what’s around you. The main ingredients at Nihonbashi are from Sri Lanka. With access to the fresh catch from the Indian Ocean, I have carved out a menu of maguro , katsuo , kawahagi , aji , tako , clams, oysters, and so on, from the waters of our small island.”

材和烹调技艺，搜集可带回国运用的点滴精华。如把墨西哥准备混酱的方法改良，学习阿根廷传统炭烤，甚至从阿根廷邀请一位建筑师到西班牙，为他们的餐厅建造一座正宗的烤炉。随着声名远播，三兄弟亦肩负随之而来的重责大任，致力推行农业和食品业的社会与环境相关议题。Joan 走访泰国，把 JOAN PUJOL-CREUS (2), COURTESY OF DHARSHAN MUNISA

2016 年主厨之选奖颁发予 Paul Pairet，并

第 25 名 : Ministry of Crab 第 47 名 : Nihonbashi 斯里兰卡可伦坡斯里兰卡与日本混血厨师 Dharshan

Munidasa 将他在斯里兰卡开设的第一家餐厅取名为 Nihonbashi，以纪念他出生的东京区，英文也有「日本桥」之意。他说：「打从第一天开始，我就想连结这两个我引以为傲的家乡岛国。」对斯里兰卡的在地产物，Dharshan 展现出日式哲学对食材的尊重，揉合活用两地的烹调手法。

参与泰国国王为鼓励栽种高利润作物、减少罂粟种植的皇室计划。

泰国皇室计划「从烹饪的角度来看，我期待能了解皇家计划种植的各种不同农作物，也希望能从与泰国厨师合作中学习他们是如何发酵、如何制备咖喱。」「带著联合国亲善大使的职责，我尽可能学习这项农业计划的一切，了解这次经验能否应用在其他地区来改善农业，为在地农夫和农产品生产商改善市场条件。」

On championing Sri Lankan cuisine “My partners are cricketers who have represented Sri Lanka, and I’d like to believe I’ve done the same in the sport of cooking. We celebrate Sri Lankan ingredients, heritage, and culture, and in my eternal quest for better ingredients, I found a crucial one, the Sri Lankan crab. My second restaurant, Ministry of Crab, set out to reconnect Sri Lanka with this great crustacean.”

在地食材「亚洲许多日式餐厅都依赖进口食材，但正宗和食祟尚的是随地取材。Nihonbashi 的主要食材都来自斯里兰卡，我们能随时取得印度洋最新鲜的海产，为此我精心设计了一套菜单，包含金枪鱼、鲣鱼、剥皮鱼、池鱼、章鱼、蛤蜊、蚝等等，这些海鲜全都来自我们居住的小岛水域。」

斯里兰卡代表料理「我父母是斯里兰卡国家板球代表队队员，我认为自己在烹饪上也扮演了相同角色。我的餐厅彰显斯里兰卡的特有食材和传统文化，而我更渴望搜罗更多顶级食材，终于找到了极为有代表性的斯里兰卡蟹。正因如此，我开设第二家餐厅 Ministry of

Crab 的目的，就是要重新展现出斯里兰卡与此种大型甲壳动物的关联。」 eastern lights

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TASTING NEWS

T E T S U YA WA K U D A No. 6: Waku Ghin Singapore The list of former chefs who trained under Tetsuya Wakuda at his legendary Sydney restaurant, Tetsuya’s, reads like a Who’s

Who of Australia’s culinary scene. “There are about forty or fifty who have become chefs de cuisine or have their own places,” says the chef. “It’s something I’m really proud of.” Wakuda was recognized last year for his numerous attainments and contributions with The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award – Asia 2015. “That award was more for the team. We shared the moment,” he says. “It makes me feel humble and think, OK, now we have to do even better and try

菲律宾马尼拉「我感觉自己像环球小姐。」Margarita

Forés 发表得奖感言时如是说。这位菲律 “I feel like Miss Universe,” Margarita Forés remarked on receiving the honor. The Filipino chef has built a food-and-lifestyle empire that includes an Italian dining chain, a champagne bar, a farm-to-table restaurant, a catering company, and more.

even harder.”

On his cooking style “The ingredients come first, before anything

宾籍厨师建造了一座融合优质食物与生

else. Then we add skill, techniques, spices,

活的帝国，包括连锁意式餐厅、豪华香

and herbs to enhance the flavor of the actual

槟吧、「从农场到餐桌」的概念餐厅，发

ingredients. The style is not Western, it’s not

展餐饮公司等等。

Asian. For example, I might add soy sauce to a shrimp dish. But when you taste it,

菲律宾美食「人们问我，为何花了这么长时间才让世

you don’t actually taste the soy sauce, you taste the natural flavor of the shrimp. This is

On the food of the Philippines

界爱上菲律宾菜色。过去三、四年间，

the style you can expect when you eat our

“People ask why it’s taken so long for our cuisine to be embraced by the world. We’ve undergone a real process of rediscovering our national identity in the past three or four years, and I’ve been blessed with the opportunity to change people’s perceptions. Thirty years ago, I couldn’t find one good tomato here. But people have imported seeds and experimented with terrains, and now there’s a deluge of interesting produce that has enhanced our creativity.”

菲律宾经历了重新发现国家认同的过程，

food.”

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我很庆幸有这个机会去扭转人们的观感。三十年前，这里连一颗新鲜蕃茄都找不

Regarding on-demand cooking

到，后来人们进口种子，在这块土地上

“Before, it used to be ‘we cook, you eat.’

尝试栽植，现在已有大量丰富的农产品，

Nowadays, more of our guests have allergies

让我们得以尽情发挥想像力。」

and requests that we have to work around. We do this in both the Sydney and Singapore restaurants, but more so in Singapore, where the chefs cook right in front of the guests. This type of last-minute, on-the-spot cooking takes skill. It keeps us on our toes.”

COURTESY OF MARGARITA FORÉS

M A RG A R I TA F O R É S Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016 Manila, Philippines

2016 年亚洲最佳女厨师

Jamaica Martini 牙买加马丁尼

和久田哲也第六名 : Waku Ghin 新加坡跟随和久田哲也在悉尼享誉盛名的 Tetsuya’s 餐厅的受训厨师，多到可汇集出一本澳洲餐饮界名人录了。他说：「大约有四、五十位已晋升为主厨或开了自己的餐厅，我感到无比骄傲。」去年和久田哲也凭借众多卓越成就与杰出贡献，荣获 The Diners Club 2015 年亚洲区终身成就奖。他表示：「这个奖是颁给整个团队的，我们共享光荣的一刻。获奖让我更谦逊，让我不断进步。」

烹调风格「绝对是食材至上。其次才透过技巧，各式香料调味来增添原始食材的风味。我的料理风格既非西式，亦非单纯亚洲口味。例如我可能会在鲜虾料理中加酱油，但你不会吃出酱油的味道，只会尝到虾子的天然鲜美。我们

COURTESY OF TETSUYA WAKUDA (2)

的料理就是带给人这样的期待。」

现点现做「从前餐厅的方式是『我们煮什么，你们吃什么』，然而现在有过敏困扰和特殊要求的顾客愈来愈多，我们就要特别应对。在我们悉尼和新加坡的餐厅，厨师会在顾客面前烹调，在新加坡尤其如此。这种直接互动的方式需要极高超的厨艺，我们也会时刻保持精准、不敢大意。」

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Yenn Wong 黄佩茵

DESIGN

品质与巧思

classy and quirky An award-winning restaurateur and hotelier talks to Mark Hammons about her approach to business in the sometimes harsh environment of Hong Kong.

DAVID HARTUNG (LEFT ), COURTESY OF JIA GROUP LIMITED

“YOU NEED TO BE sure of what you’re doing

in this field,” says Yenn Wong, the accomplished entrepreneur of JIA Group Limited. “And you really need to love it, otherwise you should make money doing something else.” Wong, who began in 2004 with the boutique hotel JIA, speaks from years of experience in opening successful restaurants in Hong Kong, attention-grabbing spaces that are design-led yet comfortable, each with a unique personality. “I want people to come back often to my places,” she says. “I want them to feel comfortable and not intimidated by the environment.” One of Wong’s early successes was 208 Duecento Otto, a spacious bar with intimate upstairs restaurant on Hollywood Road. Opened in 2010, the interior has been thoughtfully planned by Autoban, the up-and-coming Istanbul-based agency. Blue-and-white ceramic tiles with Chinese motifs line a sculptured space of industrial materials that create a Manhattan buzz. Upstairs, a visible pizza oven, complete with enticing aromas, provides the authentic Italian feel. The decorative elements conspire to

「要做这一行，必须确信自己的理念。」商场上成绩亮眼的 JIA 集团创办人黄佩茵 (Yenn Wong) 说道，「而且一定要很有热情，否则还不如转行。」黄佩茵自 2004 年筹创 JIA 精品酒店以来，在香港开设高级餐厅已有逾十年的成功经验。旗下餐厅总是耀眼夺目、设计新颖而又舒适无比，而且每一间都独具特色。她说：「我希望吸引客人常常回店光顾，我想让他们感到轻松自在，给他们没有压力的环境。」 208 Duecento Otto 餐厅是黄佩茵早期其中一间代表作。这家餐厅位于荷李活道，有空间宽广的开放式酒吧，以及闲静的二楼饭厅。餐厅于 2010 年正式开幕，室内装潢由设计界的潜力新星，伊斯坦堡 Autoban 设计工作室精心打造。蓝白磁砖上画有具当地特色的中国风图案，充满工业感雕纹的厅房，带有点曼哈顿风情。上层有特色的披萨窑，浓浓的诱人香气，散发着意大利气息。拜独到的设计之赐，208 Duecento Otto 餐厅的氛围具有明显的 JIA 特色 — 轻松休闲又不失惊艳。不仅如此，精心打造的室内设计更赋予餐厅全新的生命，完美连结简单道地的意式传统菜肴与繁忙的香港上环街头，与纽约曼哈顿的米特帕金区有异曲同工之妙。

Chachawan’s epic mural by artist Cara To 艺术家Cara To绘于Chachawan 墙上的经典大壁画

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DESIGN

give 208 a recognizably JIA atmosphere: casual informality coupled with an on-theedge design that gives a sense of purpose to the space, connecting the rustic Italian food with the busy streets of the Sheung Wan neighborhood outside and creating an overall effect that recalls New York’s Meatpacking District. Many of the restaurants in her portfolio are prizewinners, especially Duddell’s, her tony Chinese venue in Central with artlined walls and two Michelin stars, the first awarded just eight months after opening. How does such a rarefied environment fit into her relaxed vision? “I think you do also need places for that special meal out,” she concedes. “But I don’t like it when it takes five hours to dine and you have to talk quietly. Duddell’s is not like that – it’s fine dining with a relaxed vibe in the midst of some amazing art. And there aren’t many places in Hong Kong with such a large, calm outdoor terrace.” Since opening 208 six years ago, Wong has noticed an upsurge in the number of

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local restaurants that emphasize design. And with the growing competition, the consumer has come to demand it all: food, music, lighting, décor, pricing, service, location. “The market has gotten tougher over the last year,” she says, “and I think we can expect to see a lot of restaurants opening and closing in the near future. If you want to succeed, you have to stay in the top twenty percent, and that means maintaining your customers’ interest.” One way JIA does that is by projecting the latest in elegant trendiness, an offbeat marriage of the classy and the quirky. Just up the road from 208 is Chachawan, a Thai restaurant with retro décor and a hip playlist that set the stage for earthy, spicy Isaan regional cuisine from a team of experienced chefs. The restaurant’s location is something Wong gave serious thought to, as she always does when planning a new venture. “The key in Hong Kong is accessibility,” she says. “With 208 it was a bit of a risk – the area wasn’t developed but I felt it had real potential. People here like to explore

Chachawan: HK’s first Isaan Thai restaurant Chachawan：香港第一家地道泰国依善菜

new areas, and there were so many who walked by the restaurant on their way home and were very excited to see something new there. When 208 attracted both neighborhood customers and destination diners, we opened Chachawan close by.” Fish School became a new addition to the portfolio in the recently fashionable district of Sai Ying Pun. And the development of The Pulse overlooking Repulse Bay opened up another prime area, ideal for JIA’s Meen & Rice, an oceanfront spot offering Cantonese comfort food. “I like to discover new neighborhoods where we can create a mix of diners,” says Wong. “But each project is different,” she explains, “sometimes we start with the chef.” One noteworthy example is her working relationship with renowned British chef Jason Atherton, whose worldwide roster of restaurants includes three that have won Michelin stars. He has collaborated with Wong on two Wanchai venues, Ham & Sherry and 22 Ships, and also on Aberdeen Street Social, housed in the elegant colonial villa at the

COURTESY OF JIA GROUP LIMITED (3)

208 Duecento Otto: Neapolitan pizza in a New York ambience 208 Duecento Otto餐厅：在充满纽约风格的环境下享受拿坡里披萨

Duddell’s: high style and two Michelin stars 都爹利会馆：最新潮的米其林二星餐厅

former Police Married Quarters. “Sometimes it’s the space, sometimes the food,” says Wong. “We start with one thing and then build on that.” Her method is an ingenious combination of strategy and intuition. After looking at a neighborhood and its demographics, she performs a competitive analysis, observing other restaurants’ pricing and offerings. Only then does she create a concept to fit. The processes by which Wong finds inspiration may be loosely structured, but the execution of her ideas is precise, and for that she gives credit to the efficiency of her team. “You can waste so much money paying rent if work gets delayed,” she says. “There’s a lot of bureaucracy involved in obtaining licenses and permits and this simply has to be done correctly.” Wong majors on the importance of staying up to date in an increasingly competitive market populated with highly demanding diners. “We’ve just refreshed the menu at 208 – you have to keep current and keep innovating. It’s unwise to create a ten-year plan, because you always need to find new

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neighborhoods and new concepts and to evolve with the times.” An example of this is one of Wong’s more recent projects, Mak Mak, which specializes in central Thai delicacies created by Executive Chef Mumu. “We always try to look at interesting new opportunities, and we’d never been in a shopping mall before,” she remarks of her decision to locate it in the smart Landmark Atrium. With the changing times, some of the larger Hong Kong hotels have been moving in the direction of restaurants with a more indie feel, and Wong, with her on-trend acumen, has applied her observations to this space. The vintage design, inspired by traditional Thai shophouses, has made Mak Mak one of the mall’s more diverting destinations. “We’re very hands-on with every concept we develop,” she explains, “because we know how important it is to understand the people you want to attract. I like to see happy faces in our restaurants. This job can be so stressful, but when I see my hard work translated into someone else’s happiness, that’s what makes me happy.”

JIA 旗下的餐厅获奖无数，其中以位于中环的都爹利会馆最为耀眼。米其林二星的都爹利会馆是黄佩茵开设的一家中式餐馆，墙壁上挂满画作。开业短短八个月时间便获取米其林一星的认证。不禁让人要问格调如此高雅的餐厅，该如何呼应她轻松休闲的经营理念呢？她承认：「人有时候还是需要一点特别的，但我受不了吃个饭要坐五个小时，说话还要轻声细语。」她继续说道：「都爹利会馆就很不一样，有艺术作品环绕四周，顾客可以尽情放松享用美食。宽广的露天平台让顾客更加放松，在香港已经没有什么地方有如此宽大悠闲的室外空间了。」黄佩茵发现自从六年前 208 Duecento Otto 餐厅开业以来，这一带主打设计感的餐厅数量直线上升。随着竞争越来越激烈，香港消费者在食物、音乐、灯光、装潢、价位、服务、地点等方面都开始要求高品质。她说：「从去年开始竞争越来越激烈，我看最近会有很多餐厅开业，但也会有很多面临结业。要成功就要保持在前百分之二十，所以必须紧跟潮流，才能持续引起顾客的兴趣。」

COURTESY OF JIA GROUP LIMITED (2)

Mak Mak’s retro look is backdrop for central Thai flavors Mak Mak以复古装潢带出泰国中部道地口味

Duddell’s delivers creative Cantonese enveloped in art 都爹利会馆以艺术包装创意粤菜

JIA 旗下餐厅在这方面表现出色，优雅地将时下的最新潮流端到客户眼前，是集品质与巧思于一身的绝妙组合。离 208 Duecento Otto 餐馆不过几步之遥的泰式餐厅 Chachawan 时尚感十足，复古风的室内设计与店内不断播放的嘻哈舞曲提供完美的情境，由一支经验老到的厨师团队精心炮制的，朴实却辛辣的泰国东北料理加添了几分风情。开店地点的选择，一如旗下其他餐厅，也是黄佩茵深思熟虑的决定。「在香港，餐厅地点的便利性至关紧要。」她说道，「那时候设立 208 Duecento Otto 餐厅，决定开店地点时其实有点冒险，因为那一带都还没开发，只是我看中它的发展潜力。香港人就喜欢新鲜，那天晚上路过餐厅的人潮好多，都对新开幕的餐厅期待不已。当我们发现 208 Duecento Otto 餐厅不只大受当地居民青睐，也吸引远道而来的饕客饱餐一顿时，我们就决定要在附近开设 Chachawan 餐厅。」 Fish School 是黄佩茵旗下餐厅的新成员，开设在近年来越来越时髦的西营盘地区。浅水湾滩畔购物商场 The Pulse 的建设，也开拓出了新的集中地带，是 JIA 集团 Meen & Rice 餐厅的绝佳开店地点，餐厅得以在海滩旁端上最熟悉的港式家乡

味。黄佩茵说道：「我喜欢探索合适的新地点，然后在那里开设各种不同风格的餐厅。」但地点永远是最重要的吗？「不，每个计划的状况都不一样。」黄佩茵解释，「有时候我们是从决定主厨开始着手的。」值得一提的是黄佩茵与英国名厨 Jason Atherton 的合作关系，Jason Atherton 于全球开设餐厅，其中三间还荣获米其林星等肯定。他在香港已与黄佩茵合作多次，于湾仔开设 22 Ships 及 Ham & Sherry 餐厅，也修整前身为已婚警察宿舍的优雅殖民庄园建筑，开设 Aberdeen Street Social。黄佩茵说道：「有时从食物考虑，有时从地点。我们会锁定一个项目开始着手，然后继续发挥。」黄佩茵的经营方式是精准策略与锐利眼光的完美结合，总是先选定一个地区，观察其人口结构分布，然后进行竞争对手分析，调查别家餐厅的价格策略及推出的食物饮品项目，最后才依分析结果做出相对应的经营策略。黄佩茵寻找提案灵感的方式或许没有严谨的章法，但计划执行起来却丝毫不马虎，精准又有条理。她将功劳归于团队效率：「准时开幕对餐厅来说非常重要，一旦延迟就是在浪费大量的租金。取得各种执

照要经过繁琐的程序，一定要确实完成。」黄佩茵更强调走在业界前端的重要性，特别是在消费者要求越来越高、竞争日益激烈的餐饮市场。「我们才刚更新 208 Duecento Otto 餐厅的菜单，做这一行一定要保持新颖并持续创新。提出十年计划不是明智之举，应该要不断与时俱进，不断探索新地带或提出新点子。」黄佩茵最近开设的 Mak Mak 泰式餐厅即是佳例，行政主厨 Mumu 替顾客端出泰国中部佳肴。提到为何将餐厅开设在装潢现代、俐落的置地广场，她回答：「我们从来没有在商场里开过店，但我们一向都很关注这种新机会。」餐厅参考泰式「店屋」的设计风格既别致又复古，让餐厅成为商场里最富奇趣的店家。随着时代改变，香港几家规模较大的酒店也都逐渐朝这种特色餐厅发展。黄佩茵可说是将自己对潮流的敏锐洞察力发挥得宜。「我们提出的每一个构想，都是从实际经验中衍生出来的，」她解释，「因为我们深知了解目标客群有多重要。我喜欢在餐厅里看到客人满足的笑脸，很有成就感。做这一行有时候压力很大，但每当我看见我的努力转化为别人的快乐时，就觉得很满足很值得。」 eastern lights

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FOOD AND ART

厨「艺」无极

I N F I N I

A R T I S T R Y

Three visionaries bring to life the inspirations that lie behind a chef’s creative journey.

A FIFTEEN-FOOT SCROLL , beautifully painted in water一幅长十五呎、以优美水彩绘制的卷轴从背幕 color, cascades from a backdrop and runs across a display 徐徐落下，铺过展示桌优雅地落在地面。卷轴 table, spilling gracefully to the floor. Nine pieces of elegant 上方一丝不苟地陈列着九件雅致餐具，渲染的 tableware are carefully set atop it, their designs of wet-on设计搭配豪迈俐落的笔触，与卷轴构图和谐地 wet color diffusions and dramatic dry brushstrokes faithfully 互相辉映。这些优雅的艺术品组成 Infini 無极的 echoing the composition on paper. Together they comprise 专属系列，这是法国丽固与陈岚舒主厨为一场 the exclusive Infini collection, created by Legle France in col美馔盛宴打造的作品。法国丽固为此套餐具在 laboration with Chef Lanshu Chen for a glamorous one-night 上海柏悦酒店打造了一间小艺廊展出，然后作 event. The tableware is displayed in a small 为陈岚舒给八十位盛宴贵宾打造的七 BY gallery set up by Legle France at Park Hyatt 道菜专享晚宴用的摆饰食器，为长达 MAMIE CHEN Shanghai before being presented to eighty dinner 一周的上海柏悦美食美酒盛宴揭开序 guests as part of the plating of Chen’s seven幕。 PHOTOGRAPHY BY course gala dinner to open the hotel’s week-long 从第一次设计沟通到活动当天， DAVID HARTUNG showcase, 2015 Masters of Food & Wine. 法国丽固合伙人张聪先生、设计总 Over the span of six months, from the first 监陆舟女士与陈主厨在过去六个月 design brief to the event itself, Desmond Chang, Legle France 内密切合作，精心巨献这个系列，以视觉表达 partner, and Zhou Lu, design director, worked closely with 这台湾名厨对烹调和艺术的演绎。「我们想给 Chen to create a visual expression of the Taiwanese master 岚舒的料理一个强大的舞台，传达出她无穷无 chef’s personal approach to culinary art. “We wanted to offer 尽的想像力。」陆女士说道，「岚舒擅于表现多 Lanshu a powerful stage for her food that conveyed her 种质感与抽象概念，个性上既直接又纤细。我 limitless imagination,” says Lu. “Lanshu appreciates varying 和张聪先生认为水墨画兼具轻柔与刚强的层 textures and abstract concepts, and she is both direct and 次，如云般轻柔细腻的暗示与浑劲的表达方式， subtle in personality. Desmond and I felt that water ink, with 最能传达岚舒的理念。」 its soft and hard layers, its cloudlike suggestions and strong 陈主厨也同意：「这一系列的艺术作品反 expressions, would be the best way to convey her ideas.” 映了我的料理风格，因为我总是利用多种味道 Chen agrees: “The collection’s artwork reflects my 与食材建立层次与突显张力，这些是维持整体 cooking, because I always have many flavors and ingredi平衡的关键。」元素间的强弱互换，短暂即逝的 ents that create layers and tension in my dishes. You must 口感牵引来幽远深长的尾韵。陈主厨的招牌风 have these to maintain overall balance.” A strong element 格就是毫无违和地并置展现对立的质感，一层 paired with a weaker one, a short burst of flavor followed 一层地建构感官体验。她换动味道的对比，利 by a lingering aroma, Chen’s unmistakable trademark is the 用在味蕾上释放时机的交错来营造这种效果。

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To accompany the terrine of foie gras confit, Chen explores various flavors and textures of radish. A steamed and rolled radish cake presents a mild, clean flavor. A light espuma of radish highlights the vegetable’s natural sweetness. Diced pickled radish provides crisp acidity. And aged and fermented radish is blended with grapeseed oil to bring out the deep flavor and complexity of the preserved root. 为搭配鹅肝酱，陈主厨尝试了多种白萝卜的味道和质感。蒸的白萝卜卷饼代表的是温和、清新的口感；一点白萝卜泡沫强调蔬菜的天然甜味；腌渍白萝卜块带来酸酸的爽脆；陈年发酵的白萝卜与葡萄籽油混合，展现腌制根茎类深层的味道与繁复的口感。

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juxtaposition of contradictory textures and the construction of level upon level of sensations. She achieves her results through contrasting strengths of flavors and by staggering the timing of their release upon the palate. The first course consists of a delicately poached Gillardeau oyster accompanied by Granny Smith apples, a “carpet” of emulsified smoked Chinese bacon, and angelica oil, all served in a threepiece set named “Miracle Round,” complete with lid and saucer. The predominantly white motif features an emerging blossom in a fluid black ink design with understated gradations that hint at the dish’s subtly layered flavors. The soft, plump oyster, with its smooth and chewy texture and a flavor slightly briny with a hazelnut aftertaste, makes an immediate impact on the palate. But once chewed, it quickly fades, replaced by the lingering smokiness of the melting Chinese bacon fat, the bright tartness of the apples, and the warm earthiness of the angelica oil. The colors and designs on every piece throughout the collection mirror the stresses and symmetries of flavor taking place within the dish that is served on it, from the understated first course to the intensifying colors and tastes of each subsequent one. Larger and darker ink blooms encroach upon the white space in the plating of the second and third courses, terrine of foie gras confit and blaze mushrooms. The visual force continues to build in the striking, black dry brush swirls surrounding the fourth course, Maine lobster and white truffle accented with the

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第一道菜是精烹细烩的水煮吉拉朵生蚝佐青苹果，乳化熏肉片与山当归油，全部盛装在一组三件套「魔术盒」中，最后放上盖子与浅碟呈上。跃动黑墨描绘著鲜花欲盛，配搭耀眼的白色基调，暗喻了这道料理将带来的多重渐进口感。软嫩饱满的蚝肉口感滑顺，富有嚼劲，先是微咸，随后漾出榛果的余韵震荡味蕾。咬一口，味道便立即消失，取而代之的是熏肉油脂在口中化开的悠长烟熏味、鲜明的苹果酸与当归油质朴的温暖。这系列里每一件餐具的色泽 Chef Lanshu Chen 陈岚舒主厨

与设计都为菜式铺叙，与欲呈现的口味特点与对称性渲染相成。第一道菜看似低调，接下来每一道的色泽与味道则渐趋强烈。第二与第三道菜迎来鹅肝酱与姬松茸，

Focusing on the humble rice congee, Chen tested numerous varieties of rice and varying proportions of stock and water to find the version that best balanced the aroma of the rice and the fragrance of the stock. She skims only the thickened essence of the rice soup and tops it with the delicately almond-flavored blaze mushrooms. Aged tangerine peel lifts the entire dish, and chestnut cream gives it a sweet finish. 陈主厨在专注研发朴实的米粥时，测试了各式各样的米，以及汤和水不同的比例，以找出最能完美平衡米香和香汤的做法。她轻轻刮去米汤表面厚厚一层精华，在其上铺满细致杏仁味的姬松茸，以陈皮提升整道料理，最后用栗子奶油的甜味作结。

更大更深的水墨晕横溢著白色摆盘空间，如此视觉力道由震撼十足的黑色干笔触持续酣畅累积，成漩涡状环绕着第四道菜 — 缅因龙虾与阿尔巴白松露，在台湾野生山胡椒诱人的柑橘香衬托下益发突显。第五道菜则进一步大鸣大放，为此系列瓷器引入最初几笔绀青色。「我们需要有个引人注目的东西来预示方向转折。」陆女士说。「亦因为蓝色是瓷器的传统颜色，感觉起来相对自然。」「我用一道非常朴实的料理搭配这系列中最浓重、最深沉的餐具。呈现方式强烈，近乎阳刚。」陈主厨指的是她制作的「叫化鸡」。传说清代有只鸡遭人偷走后先被埋在河边土里，被挖出来后直接在火上烧烤食用。陈主厨设计多种仿泥土的可食用材料，重新演绎这个典故的界限轮廓。包括用上烟熏鳗鱼制成「泥状」慕斯，塞在鸡胸皮底下，以及盘中四处散落的云南黑虎掌菌「泥土」堆。到了第六道菜 — 乳酪，方向转折已明晰。鲜亮宽广的轻软蓝色渲染，不规则的边缘装

FOOD AND ART

intriguing, citrus-like fragrance of the makauy peppercorn from Taiwan. The fifth course reaches a crescendo, introducing the first strokes of ultramarine blue to the collection. “We needed something eye-catching to foreshadow a change in direction,” says Lu. “And because blue is a traditional color for porcelain, it felt quite natural.” “I paired the darkest, cloudiest piece of the collection with a very earthy dish and a strong, a l m o s t m a s c u l i n e p re s e n t a tion,” says Chen of her version of “beggar’s chicken,” a dish inspired by a Qing dynasty legend of a stolen hen buried in a riverbank and later unearthed and cooked directly on a flame. She devises several edible interpretations of soil, including a “muddy” mousse of smoked eel under the breast skin and mounds of crumbled mushroom “dirt” scattered about. By the sixth course, cheese, the directional shift is complete. Bright expanses of feathery blue diffusions and pronounced, irregular edges embellish a shallow pedestaled bowl that serves as stage for the gorgonzola and pear. Lightness in color, flavor, and spirit returns for the dessert course. The widerimmed dip plate gleams in brilliant white, its appealingly pebbled texture inviting a soft stroke of the fingertip. It is only after Chen’s black sesame “mooncake” and duckegg-yolk ice cream have been downed that a single daub of blue water ink is revealed. The cycle is complete, ready to begin again.

饰与高脚碗，成为葛冈佐拉乳酪与西洋梨的舞台。到了甜点，又恢复了轻盈的色泽、风味与气息。宽缘深盘闪着耀眼白光，它诱人的鹅卵石纹理引诱着笔锋在指尖轻舞。直到陈主厨的黑芝麻「月饼」与鸭蛋黄冰淇淋流出，一抹蓝墨水印才悠然浮现。这是个完整的循环，已准备好再度开始。「这一系列隐含了相当多哲学。」张先生说道。「整体来看，设计代表了厨师的创意旅程，一个想法可能从近乎零开始，逐渐变得完整。然后经历转化与自我重复，逐步晋升到更高的层次。」 Lu Zhou 陆舟

陈岚舒获选为 2014 凯歌香槟亚洲最佳女主厨，她所开设的乐沐餐厅连续三年荣获亚洲 50 最佳餐厅台湾最佳餐厅的荣誉。她从不停止追求卓越，永远精益求精。「对我来说，

Chen’s interpretation of “beggar’s chicken” highlights earthy flavors. She evokes the taste of the deep forest with powdered and crumbled black tiger’s paw mushroom, the highly sought wild variety from Yunnan. Swiss chard and Taiwanese bird’s nest fern give a hint of the mountains, and the naturally earthy flavor of white eel, enhanced by smoking, features in the mousse stuffed under the skin of the breast. 陈主厨的叫化鸡诠释方式十分重视大地感，因此以云南珍贵难求的野生种黑虎掌菌菇切碎与磨成粉，模拟森林深处的味道。红叶甜菜苗和台湾山苏让人联想到山丘，填塞在鸡胸皮底下的烟熏白鳗慕斯传递出天然土壤芳香。

改变是一定要的。每年、甚至每月，我都在为探寻更多的美好而努力。」她说。「我的视野越来越清晰，能与真实的自己对话，并透过食物进行自我阐释。」

Infini 無极系列的美学艺术来回激荡，直接反映出陈主厨数年来的厨艺探索之旅。「一开始我的料理很简单，只有一个面向。食物很美味，但仅止于此。然后我试着增添繁复感，让食物讲述故事 — 食物带给宾客什么样的思考与感受。」陈主厨说。「如今我在剔除一切不必要的元素，让料理更集中、更聚焦。不同组合、不同质感、甚至横跨不同文化情境下，味道会跟着改变。这点让我着迷，像是在探索味道彼此之间的交互作用，它如何影响作为厨师的我及作为食客的你。」如同一个慎重的印记，白色的 Infini 镂刻在最后一个深盘的边缘，见证了一个完整的循环，并预言着陈岚舒主厨的创意旅程还准备迎来无限多个循环复此。 eastern lights

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“There is a lot of philosophy embedded in this collection,” says Chang. “As a whole, the designs represent a chef’s creative journey and how an idea may start from almost nothing and build to fullness. Then it undergoes a transformation and repeats itself, but at a higher level.” Chen was named the 2014 Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef and she owns Le Moût , named by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants as the Best Restaurant in Taiwan for three consecutive years. Her pursuit of excellence is never-ending and always evolving. “For me, change is a must. Year by year, and even month by month, I am always searching for something better,” she says. “My vision becomes clearer. I see a truer picture of myself and I can explain myself better through my food.” The Infini collection’s aesthetic round-trip progression is a direct reflection of Chen’s culinary journey over the years. “When I started, my dishes were simple and one-

Desmond Chang 张聪

dimensional. The food tasted delicious, but there was nothing more to it. Then I started to add more complexity to tell a story – how the food makes you think and feel,” says Chen. “Now I am deleting all the unnecessary elements and making the dishes more concentrated and focused. I’m fascinated by how flavors change in different combinations, with different textures, or even across different cultural contexts. It’s an exploration of the ways flavors interact with each other, with me as chef and with you as diner.” Like a discreet hallmark, a white-onwhite “Infini” is etched on the rim of the last plate, bearing witness to the completion of one cycle and foreshadowing the infinite cycles still to come in Lanshu Chen’s creative journey.

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Inspired by the Mid-Autumn Festival, the five oriental petits fours lining the rim of the bowl feature osmanthus jelly with white fungus, caramelized mocha with walnut, red bean cake, and kumquat jelly with goji berry. In the center of the bowl, Chen deconstructs a mooncake with novel interpretations of common fillings. She combines lotus seed purée with ice cream made with duck egg yolk and sorghum wine and covers it with a crispy chip of black sesame paste. 灵感源于中秋节，五种东方花色小蛋糕排列在碗周围，特色是白木耳桂花糕、焦糖摩卡与胡桃、红豆蛋糕、金桔冻与枸杞。在碗中央放著陈主厨以创新手法变奏而成的「月饼」，内里是莲蓉搭配鸭蛋黄和高粱酒制成的冰淇淋，以黑芝麻酱酥片覆盖着，可谓寻常内馅的崭新诠释。

FOOD AND ART

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精准温控「度度精心」

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Four top Singapore chefs create dishes that mark the historic milestones of today’s leading maker of premium home appliances.

CELEBRATION

GAGGENAU, which was founded in the that’s the protein you were hoping to eat 成立于 17 世纪的嘉格纳，原本是一家位于德 for sustenance and nutrition!” seventeenth century as a small ironworks 国黑森林郊外偏远村庄的小型锻造工厂，现 The same sentiment is echoed by Ivan in a remote village on the outskirts of the 已成为世界知名的奢华家电品牌，事业遍布 Black Forest, has grown into the renowned Brehm, executive head chef of Baccha全球五十多个国家，享誉国际。今年是嘉格 luxury home appliance brand that speaks nalia: “Having the ability to control the 纳创立 333 周年，公司决定于今年盛大庆祝， to an international audience in more than temperature to within a single degree 表彰系列产品的悠久传统与革新演变。选择 fifty countries. The company’s decision changes everything. A chicken cooked at 今年看似随意，然而尽管数字 3 在德国文化 to choose this particular year, its 333rd, sixty degrees is incredibly different from 里并没有特殊意涵，在中华文化里却备受敬 as the one in which to honor the heritage one cooked at sixty-three. The flexibility 重，因为 3 隐含有「生」之意。嘉格纳选在 and evolution of its products might seem to be able to make fine adjustments allows 有三个 3 的这一年纪念周年，可谓不着痕迹 at first blush like an arbitrary you to really hone in on the best 地向中国致敬，展现双方友好的公共关系。 one. But, while the number possible temperature for a spe正如嘉格纳全球品牌负责人斯文 • 施内 Sven BY three may not be especially sigcific product. And that makes 「中国是我们在世界上最重要 Schnee 所说： MAMIE CHEN nificant in German culture, the you a better chef.” 的单一市场。」 digit is esteemed by the ChiIn the past, a chef needed 嘉格纳自诩在精准度上绝不妥协，因此 PHOTOGRAPHY BY nese for its similarity to the ten to fifteen years’ experi对这家企业而言，选择如此意义非凡的数字， DAVID HARTUNG character for “birth.” Choosing ence before being entrusted 而非等到更常见的 350 年来举行周年庆倒也 an anniversary year with three with a meat station, but sous 十分恰当，该品牌刚好在亚洲推出新型真空 threes could be seen as a shrewd public vide technology has removed the guess低温蒸烤箱。有别于其他传统的蒸烤箱仅能 relations nod to China, which is, accordwork in cooking meat. Chef Bruno 在二到五度之间调控，嘉格纳这项近期创新 ing to Sven Schnee, Head of Global Brand Ménard, formerly of the three-Michelin产品的温度设定可精准到摄氏一度，完全精 Gaggenau, “our most important single starred L’Osier in Tokyo and currently a 确地满足了国内市场的需求。 market worldwide.” judge on MasterChef Asia, emphasizes Tippling Club 主厨与创立人之一的 Ryan It is also fitting that Gaggenau, a comthe consistency of results and improved 「真 Clift 认为，如此一丝不苟的严谨至关重要： pany that prides itself on uncompromising time management that can be achieved 空低温烹调的要点是保留食材的原汁原味， precision, should commemorate such a through Gaggenau’s advances in kitchen 尤其是维持蛋白质和细胞结构，并了解特定 highly specified anniversary, rather than technology. 蛋白质定型、淀粉凝胶、纤维素会刚好在哪 waiting for a more common round number But beyond its innovations, what makes 个温度分解。将一小片约八十公克的鲑鱼用 like 350. In fact, the brand is aptly markthe brand so appealing to both professional 真空低温 45 度烹煮 12 分钟最是完美。但如 ing the occasion with the Asian launch of its new sous vide combi-steam oven that reduces temperature variation down to a precise one degree Celsius, compared with two to five for other steam and conventional ovens. This latest of Gaggenau’s product innovations is the most accurate built-in available to the home market today. Ryan Clift, head chef and co-owner of Tippling Club, believes that such exactitude is critical: “The whole concept of sous vide is about respecting the product – especially its protein and cellular structure – and understanding the precise individual temperatures at which specific proteins set, starches gel, and cellulose breaks down. You put a small eighty-gram pavé of salmon in sous vide at forty-five degrees and in twelve minutes it is perfectly cooked. But if your oven has a two-degree variance and it goes to forty-seven, the protein – that milky white residue – starts to Ironworks products molded in chocolate by Zoisl come out and your fish is overcooked. And Stephan Zoisl 用巧克力铸模制作的仿铁制品

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CELEBRATION

Zoisl and his team make use of the latest equipment in the Gaggenau Experience Centre in Singapore. Stephan Zoisl与他的队伍在位于新加坡的 Gaggenau Experience Centre使用最新的设备

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CELEBRATION

1683 THE BIRTH OF GAGGENAU S T E P H A N Z O I S L , C H E F’S TA B L E

and home chefs is the company’s fundamental respect for cooking as an art form and its creative ability in harnessing technology to provide better tools for the artist. Stephan Zoisl, who is founder of Chef ’s Table in Singapore as well as a Gaggenau partner chef, has had experience with other brands that boasted of their products’ ability to give cooks a greater degree of control. “Gaggenau is passionate about food,” says Zoisl. “I saw it straightaway when they asked me to help in developing recipes. They didn’t want something boring that could be done in five minutes. They’re interested in what chefs are capable of doing and in helping people do those same things at home.” “Craftsmanship is important to us,” says Schnee, “because we recognize that chefs are true craftsmen. We strive to understand their art and then to sustain and protect it.” He believes that that effort involves sharing knowledge and developing breakthrough products that bring the performance levels of the professional environment into the private homes of serious cooks. To those with such aspirations, Schnee says, “My conviction is that we can enable you to cook better. The essentials you’ve got to have are the ambition and courage to take on a challenge – and the kind of equipment that can cope with any challenge. Ours can.”

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Gaggenau was born on August 9, 1683, with the signing of a lease contract for an iron-headed hammer to be used in the production of iron nails and other metal-based goods. For Zoisl, the culinary interpretation of this seminal event was obvious: he would create a dish that explored iron-rich ingredients like venison, beets, grains, and spinach. “The main thing for me was to create a dish that is raw and has a feeling of foraged elements,” says Zoisl. He uses venison rather than beef in the tartare for its higher iron content and leaner flesh. Fermented grains are added, along with pickled cherries, fresh beets, and beet cream, mainly for color. Popped grains and a strip of blanched beet contribute contrasting textures. Finally, the tartare is garnished with fresh leafy vegetables and herbs, including spinach, baby mustard, arugula, nasturtium, oxalis, and lavender. A rustic chocolate “nail” completes the dish and the story. 嘉格纳源起于 1683 年 8 月 9 日一纸租赁合约，将铁锤用来制造铁钉及其他金属零件。Stephan 的料理显而易见地演绎了这个历史性开端，他用上各项富含铁质的食材来炮制这道料理：例如鹿肉、甜菜、谷物、菠菜等等。「我的首要之务就是创造一道天然实朴、包含探索元素的料理。」Stephan 说道。在他这道菜式里，他舍弃牛肉改用鹿肉，因为鹿肉含铁量较高，且肉质较精瘦。为了添增色彩，他另外添加了发酵谷物与腌渍樱桃、新鲜甜菜、甜菜奶油。爆谷及汆烫甜菜片则赋予菜色对比的口感。然后他以菠菜、娃娃芥菜、芝麻菜、豆瓣菜、酢酱草、薰衣草等新鲜叶菜类与香料装饰，最后摆上一根质朴的巧克力「铁钉」为这道料理作结，这章在此划下句点。

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CELEBRATION

1873 THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION BRUNO MÉNARD, MASTERCHEF ASIA The Industrial Revolution, which began in Britain in the seventeenth century, reached maturity in Germany in the 1870s with the development of chemical and electrical engineering. At the time, the Gaggenau iron factory was producing metal tools and agricultural machines and would soon become a specialist in the technique of enameling. During this period of rapid industrial and technological innovation throughout Europe and America, a corresponding culinary revolution saw the rise of gastronomy in France in the form of fine restaurants with proper service, elaborate menus, and extensive wine lists, often run by former servants of an aristocracy decimated by the French Revolution. Ménard evokes the time period by presenting a grand coulibiac centerpiece, a magnificent pie filled with layers of buckwheat, mushroom, salmon, fish mousse, spinach, and eggs. “To relate this bygone era of opulent showpieces to the modern world with the technology we have today, the coulibiac is accompanied by a very, very old sauce based on hollandaise,” says Ménard. It is a reduction of egg yolk prepared sous vide, with a flavorful broth in the style of the traditional “restorative” soups that gave the name to “restaurant.” But with the aid of a modern blender, the sauce reaches the correct consistency in a flash, and Ménard demonstrates the way technology has reduced what used to be twenty minutes of laborious hand whisking to the push of a button.

果蒸烤箱的温度差距为两度，结果温度变成 47 度，就会出现乳白色的残余物，那正是蛋白质，表示鱼过熟，流失了真正该摄取的营养精华！」

Bacchanalia 行政总厨 Ivan Brehm 亦十分认同这种观点：「能精准控温实在太重要了，60 度烹调出来的鸡肉与 63 度截然不同。拥有微调的弹性，才能针对特定食材研出最佳温度，掌控此要诀能有助你成为更好的厨师。」过去厨师需累积十到十五年的资历才获准处理肉类，但有了真空低温料理技术后，烹调肉类便不再需要凭经验摸索。Bruno Ménard 曾任东京米其林三星餐厅 L’Osier 主厨，现为亚洲顶级厨师

MasterChef Asia 评审。他强调，使用嘉格纳先进的厨房科技，能提升烹调结果的一致性，更能掌控时间。除了产品前卫、创新之外，嘉格纳深受专业与业余厨师青睐的原因，是其发自心底对烹饪的尊重。嘉格纳将烹饪视为一种艺术形式，并发挥创意、运用科技为烹饪艺术家提供更佳的工具。新加坡 Chef’s Table 创办人暨嘉格纳合伙厨师 Stephan Zoisl 曾与其他品牌合作，他形容那些品牌全都宣称自己的产

工业革命兴起于 17 世纪的英国，随着化学与电子工程发展突飞猛进，1870 年代在德国达

「嘉品让厨师更能掌控烹调过程。Stephan 说：

到巅峰。当时嘉格纳锻造工厂正生产金属工具与农用机械，更即将成为珐琅工艺专家。在

格纳对食物抱持高度热忱，从他们请我开发

这段欧美的工业与科技快速发展时期，法国掀起一场饮食革命，见证了美食烹饪渐渐在法

食谱时，我就了解到这点。他们要的不是五

国崛起。当时许多贵族阶级死于法国大革命，原本服侍贵族的仆人开始经营提供高档服务

分钟内就可做好的乏味料理，他们真正想了

的上流餐厅，餐厅里备有匠心独具的菜单与包罗万象的酒单，开启了美食新纪元。

解厨师的技艺，并帮助人们在家里也能自行

为缅怀这段时期，在餐桌中央，Bruno 摆设着体积庞大、包裹丰富内馅的俄式大烤饼，

烹调出一样的料理。」

「为了用现代科技连结那包括层叠的荞麦、蘑菇、鲑鱼、鱼肉慕斯、菠菜、蛋。Bruno 说：

「烹调技艺对我们而言极为 Sven 表示：

段多采多姿的消逝岁月与现在，我用一种非常、非常古老的酱汁佐俄式鲑鱼派。酱汁主体

重要。因为我们深知厨师是真正的巧匠，我们

是荷兰酱，先用真空低温浓缩蛋黄，再拌进一种风味浓郁的高汤，正呼应了英文『餐厅』

尽力体会他们的艺术，然后延续它、捍卫它。」

」有了现代搅拌器的辅助，便能在极短的时间内制一词的法文原意 – 传统的『滋补』汤品。

而且他认为，此种努力还包含了分享知识、开

作出品质一致的酱汁。Bruno 更做了示范，以往需 20 分钟费力手动搅拌的辛劳，现在只需

发突破性商品，让居家的厨师也能展现专业厨

按个钮就一切搞定。

师的表现水准。Sven 续说，对于有抱负、想精进厨艺的业余厨师而言，「我坚信我们能让你做出更好的料理。你需要有勇气接受挑战，和具备能与你一起迎战的厨具。」

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CELEBRATION

1908 THE BADENIA ERA IVAN BREHM, BACCHANALIA By 1908, Gaggenau’s product line had expanded into coal and gas-fired stoves, and sales of its “Badenia” bicycles had reached a quarter million. To obtain the type of steel required for bicycle frames, Gaggenau created a specific type of industrial oven. Brehm, in researching these innovations from the Badenia Era, discovered that many of the technological advances in industrial ovens were based on century-old experiments with insulation and heat retention conducted by Count Rumford, the same scientist credited as the father of sous vide cooking for his studies on low temperature cooking in water. “In order to reflect the time period as well as my personal style of food,” says Brehm, I decided to get to the essence of how important temperature control is, not only today, but even at that early date.” Brehm prepares a French onion soup by cooking it for seventy-two hours at a very low eighty-five degrees, slowly caramelizing the onion sealed in the sous vide bag. “The idea is to preserve particular properties of the onion by means of a long and steady cooking process, as theorized long ago by Rumford,” says Brehm. The soup also features cheddar cheese nuggets, some poached and dried for a chewy consistency and some poached, dried, and microwaved to achieve a puffy, crispy texture. “I wanted to showcase the fact that with knowledge you can pioneer change,” says Brehm, “and 1908 was a good year for that.” His dessert of poached quince with lentil-and-date sorbet is a case in point. His thorough understanding of the way pectin works lets him leverage the naturally high pectin level of quince to create interesting textures without the use of powders or stabilizers. Similarly, Brehm manipulates lentil milk to act as stabilizer in the sorbet, giving it a smooth creaminess without the addition of any dairy or egg products.

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到了 1908 年，嘉格纳的产品线已扩张至炭炉与煤气炉，「Badenia」自行车的销售量更达到 25 万辆。为生产自行车骨架所需的钢铁，嘉格纳制造出一种特殊的工业用烤箱。 Ivan 在研究 Badenia 历程的创新发明时，发现有许多工业用烤箱的技术演进，都是基于伦福德伯爵的百年实验结果。这位科学家苦心钻研隔热与保温，后来因其浸泡低温烹调的研究，被誉为真空低温料「为反映那个时代及我的理之父。Ivan 说：个人料理风格，我决定直接突显温控的重要性，不只现在，甚至在过去那个时代也很重要。」

Ivan 炮制了一道法式洋葱汤，用极低温 85 度炖煮了 72 小时，缓慢地将封装在真空低温料理袋内的洋葱焦糖化。他说：「这么做是为了透过冗长而稳定的烹煮过程，保留洋葱的某些特性，这正是伦福德伯爵很久以前提出的理论。」此外，各式切达起司块也是这道汤的一大亮点。有些起司块经过水煮风乾，以维持一贯的嚼劲，有些经过水煮、干燥后再以微波炉加热，呈现出蓬松、酥脆的口感。「我想表达的是，有知识就能引领改变，

1908 年正是具代表性的一年。」Ivan 如是说。他的甜点水煮榲桲佐小扁豆与香枣雪葩即是最佳例证。正因他对果胶的作用了若指掌，便能运用榲桲富有的高含量天然果胶，在不需要泡打粉或稳定剂的情况下创造出绝妙的质地。同样地，他巧妙运用了扁豆奶，在雪葩中当作稳定剂用，因而不需添加任何乳制品或蛋制品，就能赋予甜点丝柔香滑的绵密感。

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CELEBRATION

2016 THE PRESENT AND FUTURE RYA N C L I F T, T I P P L I N G C L U B If 1908 represents an initial understanding of the impact of temperature, then 2016 means the final perfecting of temperature control in Gaggenau’s latest sous vide combisteam oven. “I showcase several different styles of protein, each of which has its own specific breakdown temperature,” says Clift. “What you can do with sous vide is endless, but understanding the right temperature is always the key.” Brehm cuts a large loin of wagyu beef into smaller strips and cooks them sous vide for twenty-six minutes at fifty-six degrees. Then he sears each piece all over for no more than six seconds at a time on each side, gently caramelizing the surface, without the appearance of even a sliver of grey that would indicate destroyed protein. Mangalica pork collar is brined for twenty-four hours in a salt solution, desalinated, and then slow-cooked confit-style for nineteen hours at seventy-two degrees. “Each slice is a beautiful example of pink pork that melts in the mouth.” Due to its tougher cellulose, Portuguese dried salt cod, bacalhau, is cooked at sixty degrees, a higher temperature than for most other fish. It is paired with potatoes cooked sous vide at eighty-five degrees for two and a half hours and mixed with an onsen egg slow-cooked at sixtyfive degrees. In one of Tippling Club’s signature dishes, foie gras is first marinated in Cognac for forty-eight hours and then cooked sous vide with a special temperature probe inserted. The moment the core hits fifty-four degrees, the fois gras is blast chilled and then whipped in a blender. “It has an even smoother, creamier texture than parfait, but it’s pure foie gras,” says Clift. “It’s one of my favorite techniques.” The dish is complemented by the textures of fresh, dehydrated, and freeze-dried apple and by a graufrette biscuit for a crunchy, bittersweet note.

若 1908 年标志着对温控的最初认识，2016 年就象征着嘉格纳最新真空低温蒸烤箱已将温控推升至完「我烹煮了多种不同蛋白，每种美境界。Ryan 说：蛋白的分解温度都不同。真空低温烹调的潜力无穷，但关键永远在于发掘正确的烹调温度。」

Ivan 将一大块和牛里肌肉切成较小的条状，用 56 度真空低温烹调 26 分钟，然后他将每一条牛肉充分炙烤，每一面不超过六秒，仅让表面稍微呈现焦黄色，没有一丝一毫显现出蛋白质遭破坏的灰色淀积。除去盐分，曼加利察猪肉以卤水炖煮 24 小时后，「每一块猪肉然后用 72 度以油封方式慢炖 19 小时。都以完美的状态呈现，而且入口即化。」葡式盐腌鳕鱼马介休因纤维质较硬，所以用 60 度烹调，比多数其他鱼种来得高。与之搭配的是在

85 度烹调了两个半小时的真空低温料理马铃薯，拌以 65 度慢煮而成的温泉蛋。在 Tippling Club 的一道招牌菜中，鹅肝先用干邑白兰地腌渍 48 小时，然后真空低温烹调，同时插入一只特殊温度探针。一旦鹅肝中心达到 54 度，便会急速冷却，然后放进搅拌器里搅打。「成品的口感比甜点芭菲更柔滑绵密，但纯粹是鹅肝。这是我最「搭配这道料理的是新鲜、喜欢的技术。」Ryan 说道。脱水、冷冻风乾的苹果，与提供清脆质地、苦甜味的松酥饼。」

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BOOK REVIEW

八角哲学

T H E

E S S E N T I A L E I G H T

One of Asia’s preeminent chefs expresses the heart of his approach in a spectacular new book.

AFTER SPENDING MANY YEARS perfecting his culi辗转于日本及法国多年不断精进厨 nary skills in Japan and France, Taiwan-born chef 艺后，台湾鬼才主厨江振诚（André André Chiang opened Restaurant André in Singapore Chiang ）2010 年于新加坡创立 in 2010. Moving swiftly to the leading edge of Asia’s 「Restaurant André」餐厅，在亚洲 fast-emerging gastronomic scene, it has 发展蓬勃的餐饮市场声 been named among The World’s 50 Best 名鹊起，并迅速占有一 BY Restaurants and is number three on the 席之地。「Restaurant LUCY MORGAN list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016. André」名列全球前 50 Chiang is a meticulous and driven 大最佳餐厅，2016 年在 PHOTOGRAPHY BY chef who labored long and hard to 亚洲 50 大餐厅中也高居 EDMOND HO refine and define the innermost essence 第三，领导地位毋庸置 FROM of his creative processes and culinary 疑。 OCTAPHILOSOPHY: THE style. At last he came to the realization 江振诚做事一丝 EIGHT ELEMENTS OF that his approach could be distilled into 不苟、不断驱动自己向 RESTAURANT ANDRÉ a few irreducible elements represented 前。他长期投注大量心 BY ANDRÉ CHIANG by eight simple words – salt, texture, 力、精益求精，重新定 memory, pure, terroir, south, artisan, and 义自己创意料理过程及 unique. Together, they form a single grand concept 烹饪风以追求和定义自己对创意料理 he has termed “Octaphilosophy,” a concept that 过程及烹饪风格的核心要素。最终 gives structure to his restaurant’s tasting menus of 他意会到，自己的方法可以精炼成 eight courses, each of which exemplifies one of the 八个词来归结：分别是盐 (salt)、质 elements. (texture)、忆 (memory)、纯粹 (pure)、 To create a record of the dishes he has origi风土 (terroir)、南法 (south)、工艺 ( nated and also to inspire his many followers to artisan) 及独特 (unique)。此一总括 recreate them at home, Chiang has recently pro性的概念一言以蔽之便是「八角哲学 duced a book, Octaphilosophy: The Eight Elements (Octaphilosophy)」，由此衍生出餐厅

•

of Restaurant André, published by Phaidon Press. It leads the reader through a year in the life of the restaurant by means of deeply personal accounts of his culinary journey, accompanied by magnificent photographs that capture telling moments behind the

的八道菜菜单，每道料理代表一个元素。为了替自己的原创菜色留下纪录，同时作为追随者们在家可据以再创造的范本，江振诚最近推出新书「八

Pré-salé, Scallop Lasagna, Almond Emulsion 盐土，扇贝烤宽面条，杏仁乳液

TK | eastern lights

BOOK REVIEW

THIS BOOK IS ABOUT THE HERE AND NOW – PRESENCE IS SOMETHING I’VE BEEN WORKING ON ALL MY LIFE.

这本书刻画的是此地此刻，我毕生追求『把握现在』的意义。 ANDRÉ CHIANG

scenes as well as his visually exciting cuisine in vivid close-up. “This book is about the here and now,” he says. “Presence is something I’ve been working on all my life. As a chef, I am constantly striving to reinvent, and so I’ve chosen to show all the dishes I’ve served our guests over a period of 365 days.” The book has eight sections, each introduced by an exposition of one of the elements and seasoned with anecdotes from Chiang’s life. Some parts are authored by acclaimed writer Lotta Jörgensen and others, including the haikus and other verses that start each chapter, are by Chiang, making for an objective/subjective mix, somewhat like a lens zooming in and out on its subject. The device mirrors one of Chiang’s favorite ways of working:

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sometimes completely absorbed in a pursuit, sometimes standing aloof to assess with an onlooker’s gaze. Part biography, part recipe book, part philosophical treatise, Octaphilosophy pulls the reader into Chiang’s creative world, a paradoxical fusion of precision and boundless open-mindedness. The book can oscillate between descriptions of long days of diligent drudgery as a kitchen assistant in France and of the rarefied hours he now can spend doing nothing at all in preparation for the birth of a new dish. He views the combination of an uncluttered mind and a solid foundation of technique as the perfect blank canvas for creation: “When I’m working ‘pure,’ there’s nothing on my mind. I don’t think or read, I’m empty, I shut myself down for two or three hours. Only then can I be true to myself and start to create.” The book demonstrates that Chiang’s artistic skills aren’t limited to the kitchen. While his restaurant was being built and he had no kitchen to work in, Chiang became absorbed in pottery, turning out imaginative plates and sculptures. He also writes of his thrill in finding the perfect location for Restaurant André, an elegant colonial house with a blue door, and of his involvement in its redesign and restoration. And this latest book is not Chiang’s first – his

角哲学」，由「Phaidon Press」出版。带领读者体验在餐厅一年的时光，踏上触及主厨内心的烹饪之旅，辅以引人入胜的照片，捕捉幕后的动人时刻，也同时近距离欣赏道道让人惊叹的妙绝菜色。他强调：「这本书刻画的是此地此刻，我毕生追求『把握现在』的意义，身为一个厨师，我从未停止创新，因而决定」将过去 365 天端给客人的菜色都摆进书里。此书分成八个章节，八大元素各有延伸专章介绍，穿插许多主厨的人生故事，当中的轶事趣闻为此书增色不少。部分章节由知名作家 Lotta Jörgensen 主笔，有些则由江振诚亲自描写，支分节解，主客观视角齐俱：同个主题可用放大镜检视，也有抽离的旁观陈述。此一写作方式与主厨一贯的做事方法如出一辙：前一刻锁定目标全神贯注，下一刻迅速抽身，改以旁观者的身份客观评断。半自传半料理书，同时带有哲学性的思考，「八角哲学」引领读者直进江振诚那精准无比却又开放且充满无限可能的创意世界中。此书可以看到在法国时期担任厨房助理、日复一日干活疲于奔命的江振诚，也可看到现在他如何精细时间、抛空一切全心准备新菜问世的专注神情。在他眼里，心无旁骛的状态加上烹饪技巧作为基础，正是挥洒创意的最佳画布。他说明：「进入『纯粹』模式时，心中应无一物，我不会进行任何思考或阅读，整个人是放空的，我把自己开关关掉二到三个小时，此时才能找回真我，开始创作。」此书也让人看到江振诚的艺术天分并不限于厨艺界。餐厅尚未完工前，他没有任何

BOOK REVIEW

his creative process into an ordered set of instructions on how to reassemble them. Chiang often uses unfamiliar ingredients, and some of his recipes are surprising, even downright shocking. One, for instance, features live langoustines, another, cockscombs. Many dishes do not taste at all the way they look. But exotic components and esoteric techniques aside, what Chiang’s dishes always have in common is their exquisite presentation, captured with dazzling clarity in the book in page after page of appealing and inspiring photographs. The food is not the book’s only visual star. It opens with a series of charming black and white photos that document the activities of Chiang’s team and communicate the true affection they hold for one another. “Alone, I only perform at 100 percent,” Chiang explains of the synergy, “but all of us together are far stronger than the sum of our parts. I want them to be creative individuals with their own identities, and my job is to facilitate the teamwork.” For those who can’t get to Singapore to dine at Restaurant André, the book offers an insightful and diverting vicarious experience from a number of angles. But it won’t be the last word. “This book has given me the energy to start working on my next one,” says Chiang. “There’s always a continuation, never an end.”

Salt-Baked Potato, Flower 盐焗土豆，鲜花

autobiography in Chinese sold hundreds of thousands of copies. The recipes in Octaphilosophy are not for the novice – some require specialized equipment and a very high level of professional skill. But they do offer a fascinating glimpse into Chiang’s unique way of working. Pursuing a cuisine that is ingredient-led and

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highly seasonal, he waits for the produce to arrive each day before deciding what to cook. Chiang himself prefers not to follow recipes, working instead with a spontaneity that combines instinct, expertise, and imagination. And yet in the book he methodically deconstructs each dish into its components, delighting his admirers by demystifying

Hong Kong gourmets will have the opportunity to explore André Chiang’s Octaphilosophy closer to home on May 30 and 31 when he joins forces with chef Richard Ekkebus in presenting an exclusive Four Hands Dinner at Amber, the twoMichelin-starred restaurant at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. Chiang and Ekkebus, Culinary Director of Amber, will present an eight-course “surprise” menu to celebrate Chiang’s new book. The dinner is priced at HKD3188, plus 10 percent service charge, and includes a copy of the book. For reservations: +852 2132 0066 or lmhkg-amber@mohg.com.

BOOK REVIEW

Potato Soufflé, Dulce de Leche, Milk Pudding 土豆蛋奶酥，焦糖牛奶酱，牛奶布丁

厨房可用，此时他将注意力转向陶器，创制

有一定难度，部分菜色如没有特殊的设备和

开创意发想过程的神秘面纱，指导众多他的

出不少想像力十足的碗盘及雕塑作品。书中

极高的专业技巧可做不来。但透过此书，读

支持者按部就班、逐步重组，让美味重现。

也提到当初餐厅地点尘埃落定时他的激动心

者可一瞥主厨独特的做菜方式。「Restaurant

情，一派优雅的殖民时期洋房，蓝色大门，

André」以食材为中心、讲究季节性，每日待

谱看了让人大吃一惊，甚至震惊到难以理解。

江振诚对于冷门食材情有独钟，有些食

重新设计及整修过程江振诚都有亲自参与。

新鲜农产直送餐厅后，主厨才决定最终的菜

例如某一道使用了整只活海螯虾或以鸡冠入

「八角哲学」并非江振诚的首部出版品，此前

单。他并不主张跟随食谱，反之，他偏好跟

菜等，都是他的「惊人」之举。很多菜看起

他的中文自传早已登过畅销榜，销量超过数

着感觉走，顺着直觉本能、专业技术及想像

来的感觉和尝起来的味道完全不同。除了异

十万本。

力即兴发挥。然而书中却可见江振诚将每道

国素材及深奥技巧的巧妙评用，江振诚的料

菜一一破解、系统性讲解所有组成要素，揭

理都呈现一共通处，就是精致无比的摆盘，

「八角哲学」中的食谱对于初学者而言

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Camembert, Hay Ice Cream 卡门贝尔乳酪，干草冰淇淋

各式细节在书中巨细靡遗，动人又吸引力十

工作顺利、合作无间。让大家拿出创意、表

江振诚将于 5 月 30 日及 31 日与香港置地文

足的精彩图文说明一页接一页。

现个人特色。」

华东方酒店米其林二星「Amber」餐厅餐饮

食物并非「八角哲学」唯一的焦点所在，

对于无法专程到新加坡「Restaurant

总监 Richard Ekkebus 合作，携手推出精选

本书开端可以看到一系列黑白照片，纪录江

André」的饕客而言，阅读此书犹如到餐厅一

八道菜「惊喜」套餐，庆祝江振诚新书上市，

振诚团队工作时的一举一动，成员间真挚的

游，让他们有机会从各方各面享受这个深刻

香港饕客有机会亲尝主厨「八角哲学」独一

情感展露无遗。对于团队合作，主厨下了如

同时又趣味十足的旅程。江振诚强调，他的

无二的滋味。晚间套餐定价港币 3,188 元，

此注解：「独自的工作，我可以做到百分之百，

书写不会到此为止：「这本书让我动力十足，

加 10% 服务费，同时附赠主厨新书一册。

但大家一起合作，结合起来的力量远比各自

迫不及待要开始下一本，人生正是不断在延

努力的总和强大得多。我的职责就是让团队

续，从无止境。」

请电洽 +852 2132 0066 或电邮至 : lmhkg-amber@mohg.com 订位。 eastern lights

TK |

美味闪现

flash of brilliance A star pastry chef reinvents an old favorite with the help of superior whipping cream.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

UNTIL RECENTLY, the éclair (named “lightning” because it’s devoured so fast) has held a humble status in the pastry world. The traditional pâte à choux filled with vanilla cream and slathered with chocolate was relegated to stodgy comfort-food status while rainbow-hued macarons rose to ascendancy. But modern reinterpretations of the classic French indulgence have captivated the imaginations of both pastry chefs and pastry lovers, re-elevating the éclair to the heavenly realms of haute pâtisserie. For Johanna Le Pape – noted pastry chef, world champion of the International Confectionery Art Competition 2014, co-owner of Mon Éclair pastry shop in Paris – innovation is key. With the archetype “éclair” serving as blank canvas for her artistic flights, she layers multiple tastes and textures. In one example, star anise brings a bright note to the spiced pear and mellow caramel flavors, and craquelin topping and almond granola add crunch to contrast with the velvety cream and fluffy guimauve. Le Pape doesn’t believe éclairs are technically difficult, given the right ingredients and careful timing. “Éclairs are challenging because they don’t last long,” she warns. “They should be crispy on the outside, but they get soft very quickly.” Mon Éclair solves the problem by assembling them à la minute, adding the filling and piping the cream to order. Pastry cream that lasts a day in the fridge without collapsing is critical, and it all comes down to the quality of the whipping cream. Besides flavor, it must have high “whipability,” the measure of how quickly it gains volume and holds its consistency. Le Pape has been using Candia Professionnel 35.1% Fat UHT Whipping Cream since it was released last year. The high fat content and precise processing methods allow the dairy fat globules to form protective barriers around tiny pockets of air, giving structure and stability to the emulsion. “I’ve tried so many different brands that just never whip properly,” she says. “But Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream always produces a texture that’s perfect – and stays perfect.”

Spiced Pear and Caramel Cream Éclair 洋梨焦糖奶油闪电泡芙

在糕点界，「闪电泡芙」的名声不久前还不算响亮 (「闪电」一词形容泡芙旋即没入口中的美妙滋味 )。当七彩的马卡龙日渐发优越，夹满香草奶油、上层有著滑顺巧克力翻糖的传统法式泡芙则被眨成只带腻的慰藉食物。然而经过各种现代创意演绎，这源自 19 世纪的经典法式甜点已脱胎换骨，除了满足甜点师及爱好者的想像外，闪电泡芙也晋升为殿堂级美味。 Johanna Le Pape 为业界知名甜点师，她是 2014 年世界糖艺大赛冠军，也是巴黎糕点店「Mon Éclair」拥有者之一。对她而言，创新才是一切的关键所在。她以经典「闪电泡芙」作为发挥的原型，在这空白画布上大展身手，以多种味道及口感层层相叠，创造繁复细腻的层次。例如将调味洋梨内馅及醇厚的焦糖奶油和八角相搭配，使味道更加分明清爽。法式脆饼的外层及杏仁谷麦酥脆的口感则与丝般滑顺的鲜奶油及绵密轻弹的法式棉花糖形成美味的对比，十分相称。

Johanna 认为，只要掌握正确的食材、时间安排得当，制作闪电泡芙在技术上并非难事。但同时她提醒：「赏味期限短是其难度所在，泡芙外皮要酥脆，然而它们很容易一下子就变软。」Mon Éclair 的处理方式是现点现做，接单后才加打发奶油内馅。因此品质稳定，冷藏后可维持一整天不融化的糕点奶油在这尤不可缺。接下来的关键就是鲜奶油了。除了味道外，好的奶油「打发性」也要够高，意即多快可以打发起以及维持的程度。乳脂含量 35.1% 的肯迪雅餐饮专用稀奶油（Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream) 去年推出后立即成为 Johanna 的心头好，使用至今可说是爱不释手。高脂含量及精确的加工过程让乳脂肪球能在空气泡中形成保护屏障，让奶油能轻易成型，且结构稳定。她说：「过去我尝试过不同品牌，效果都不太合适满意。但使用肯迪雅稀奶油做出来的完全不同，质感完美无懈之馀，稳定性相当优异。」 eastern lights

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

Spiced Pear and Caramel Cream Éclairs 洋梨焦糖奶油闪电泡芙 Preparation time: 2 h. 40 min. Yield: 20 éclairs

CHOUX PASTRY

CARAMEL CREAM

PEAR GUIMAUVE

250 g Candia unsalted butter 250 g water 250 g milk 8 g table salt 280 g T55 flour 440 g eggs

90 g sugar 225 g Candia Professionne Whipping Cream 1 vanilla bean 5 g fleur de sel 17 g gelatin 80 g milk chocolate 40% 200 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream, cold

125 g pear pulp 125 g glucose syrup 150 g invert sugar 250 g sugar yellow food coloring green food coloring 60 g invert sugar 400 g gelatin 50 g pear pulp 3 g citric acid 5 g sugar 200 g ground cinnamon

SPICED PEARS

CRAQUELIN 50 g Candia unsalted butter 60 g brown sugar 60 g flour

1. Mix the softened Candia unsalted butter with the brown sugar and add the flour to form a dough. 2. Roll it out to 1mm thickness between two sheets of parchment paper.

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1 L water 500 g sugar 2 pieces star anise 1 cinnamon stick 10 g vanilla extract 1 piece orange zest 800 g Comice pears 250 g pear pulp 175 g sugar 35 g pectin NH 400 g pear, brunoised (finely diced)

1. To make the syrup, combine the water, sugar, star anise, vanilla extract, and orange zest and bring to a boil. 2. Wash and peel the pears, cut them in halves, and remove the cores. Poach them in the syrup at 75°C for 45 minutes. 3. In a pot, mix the poached pears with the pulp and heat. 4. Mix the sugar and pectin, add to the fruit, and bring to a boil. 5. Refrigerate until cool and add the brunoised pear.

1. Prepare caramel by heating a saucepan and gradually adding the sugar. At the same time in another saucepan, heat the Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream with the vanilla bean and fleur de sel. When the caramel is amber, deglaze it with the cream. Stir it into a bowl containing the gelatin and milk chocolate. 2. Add the cold Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream. Mix, sift, and refrigerate twenty-four hours. Whip the cream right before assembling the éclairs.

ALMOND GRANOLA 225 g slivered almonds 225 g crushed almonds 100 g raisin oil 30 g maple syrup 60 g brown sugar 80 g honey 6 g salt 12 g vanilla extract

Make a syrup by combining the oil, maple syrup, brown sugar, honey, salt and vanilla extract in a pan and cooking it to 110°C. Pour over the slivered and crushed almonds and bake at 180°C for 20 min. Cool it on a rack.

1. In a pan, heat the pear pulp with the glucose syrup, invert sugar, sugar, and coloring. 2. Bring to a boil and pour into a bowl containing the gelatin and invert sugar, whipping with a whisk. When foamy, heat the pulp and citric acid and add it to the mixture, whipping until cool. 3. Using a piping bag with a no. 8 tip, pipe the guimauve into little peaks. Sift the mixture of cinnamon and sugar over them and let them rest at room temperature for 24 h.

ASSEMBLY AND PRESENTATION After baking the éclairs with craquelin, cut off the top third of the éclairs, removing some of the pastry inside. Fill with the spiced pear mixture and replace the top of the éclairs. Pipe the caramel cream on top and decorate with the granola and guimauves. DAVID HARTUNG (4)

1. In a saucepan, combine the water, milk, salt, and Candia unsalted butter. 2. Heat until the butter melts, then bring to a boil. Remove from heat and quickly add the flour, stirring briskly to combine completely. 3. Return to heat and dry the dough, stirring until it begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. 4. Cool until lukewarm and beat in the eggs one by one to produce a smooth dough.

“ First you should taste the cream for the flavor, it must not be too strong. Then you must whip it and see how it performs. Flavor, whipability, and stability – these are the criteria for good whipping cream. 应该先品尝奶油味道，再搅打奶油并观察其变化。无论是味道、奶油的起泡程度或者稳定性，都是鉴定其品质的重要条件。”

法式脆饼 (CRAQUELIN)

调味洋梨

50 克肯迪雅无盐奶油 60克红糖 60克面粉

1公升水 500克糖 2片八角 1个肉桂条 10克香草精 1片橙皮 800克 Comice洋梨 250克洋梨泥 175克糖 35克果胶NH 400克洋梨, 小丁(细切)

1. 待肯迪雅无盐奶油软化后与红糖混和均匀，加入面粉揉成面团。 2. 上下铺上烤盘纸后杆成1 公厘薄片。

法式泡芙 250克肯迪雅无盐奶油 250克水 250克牛奶 8 克食盐 280克 T55面粉 440克鸡蛋

1. 在调理锅中放入水、牛奶、盐及肯迪雅无盐奶油搅拌。 2. 热锅到奶油融化，继续加热至沸腾后把锅移开并迅速加入面粉，动作轻快拌至均匀。 3. 继续热锅以烘干面团，并搅拌至面团黏底。 4. 放至微温，将蛋一颗颗打进面团，维持滑顺质感。

1. 调理锅中放入水、糖、八角、香草精及橙皮，煮至沸腾，作为糖浆。 2. 洋梨过冲后削皮，切半后将果核剥除。 3. 将洋梨放入糖浆中加热至 75度，煮45分钟。 4. 另起一锅，放入水煮洋梨及洋梨泥后加热。 5. 糖与果胶拌匀后倒至洋梨上，加热至煮沸。 6. 置于冰箱放冷，再加入洋梨细丁。

焦糖奶油

洋梨法式棉花糖

90克糖 225克肯迪雅餐饮专用稀奶油 1片香草荚 5克盐之花 17克吉利丁 80克牛奶巧克力(40%) 200克冷冻肯迪雅餐饮专用

125克洋梨泥 125克葡萄糖浆 150克转化糖浆 250克糖

稀奶油

1. 调理锅加热备用，糖渐次放入，同时肯迪雅稀奶油则与香草荚及盐之花混和于另一锅加热。焦糖转成琥珀色时，加入奶油刮锅融合所有味道，精华汁液再倒入大碗，与吉利丁及牛奶巧克力一起拌匀。 2. 加入冷冻肯迪雅稀奶油，充分搅和、过筛后冷藏24 小时。组装闪电泡芙前再将奶油打发。

杏仁谷麦 225克杏仁条 225克杏仁碎片 100克葡萄籽油 30克枫糖 60克红糖 80克蜂蜜 6克盐 12克香草精

平底锅中倒入油、枫糖、红糖、蜂蜜、盐及香草精，加热至110度熬制糖浆，后倒于杏仁条及杏仁碎片上放入烤箱，180度烘烤20分钟。烤完置于架上冷却。

黄色食用色素绿色食用色素 60克转化糖浆 400克吉利丁 50克洋梨泥 3克柠檬酸 5克糖 200克肉桂粉

1. 洋梨泥放进平底锅，加入葡萄糖浆、转化糖浆、糖及色素加热熬煮。 2. 煮至沸腾后倒入内盛吉利丁及转化糖浆的碗中，以搅拌器拌匀至起泡后，将加热后的果泥及柠檬酸一起倒入，继续搅拌直至冷却。 3. 选用8号口径挤花袋，将法式棉花糖挤成一个个小尖峰，肉桂及糖过筛洒于其上后，室温静置24 小时。

组装及摆盘闪电泡芙与法式脆饼烘烤后，切下前三分之一，除去内里的部分馅饼，放入调味洋梨并用其取代成为闪电泡芙的顶部，焦糖奶油挤花其上，再加上谷麦及法式棉花糖点缀即大功告成。

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PRESENTED BY LE RÊVE

Minéral Scampi, Chinese Kale Blossom, Yozan Garlic, White Wine Vinegar Sauce, Olive Oil, Sea Urchin 虾，芥兰菜花，鹰山大蒜，白酒醋，橄榄油，海胆

梦幻组合

dream team Old friends and a young chef collaborate to bring the latest in modern French food to Le Rêve.

WHEN FIVE FRIENDS – Leo Ng, Gabriel Wong, Lee Kwok Wai, Leonard Tam, and Wyman Au – were students in the UK, they would take off to eat their way across Europe, all the while dreaming of someday starting a restaurant of their own.That dream has now been realized with the opening in Causeway Bay of Le Rêve, a fine-dining experience that combines superb Japanese ingredients, modern French technique, and soaring imagination.

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While Ng, Wong, and Lee are in charge of day-to-day operations, the kitchen is under the creative leadership of Ryogo Ozawa, a rising Japanese talent who honed his skills as poissonnier at three-Michelinstarred L’Assiette Champenoise in Reims. At Le Rêve, he demonstrates innovative technical brilliance on the one hand and a respect for French traditions on the other, as well as the obsession with ingredients and their

provenance that is characteristic of both Japanese and French gastronomy. “French cuisine, new style,” he puts it succinctly, referencing his astute seasonal menu that includes an original scampi dish called Minéral, served with a dollop of rouille and what looks like roe, but is actually spheres made from uni, white wine vinegar, and olive oil. His creation named Vie is inspired by

Head Chef Ozawa Ryogo 主厨小泽亮吾 ↗ Vie: Brandade of Akashi Sea Bream, Chiffon of Burdock, Egg of Quail, Financier, Caviar 明石鲷奶油酪，牛蒡薄片，鹌鹑蛋，费南雪蛋糕，鱼子酱 →

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Nature: Soft-Shelled Turtle Steam Egg, Soft-Shelled Turtle Croquette, Mango Sauce, Blackberry 鳖肉蒸鸡蛋，鳖肉可乐饼，芒果酱，黑莓

a classic brandade. The chef layers Akashi sea bream with chiffon of burdock and beet foam and garnishes the dish with a savory financier flecked with chili. He serves an A5 sirloin from Kagoshima with a plump cep, baby eggplant, beet-and-wasabi foam, and a concentrated, intensely flavorful beef jus reduction. Perhaps his most unusual signature dish is Nature, a multiform presentation of softshell turtle, a rare Japanese delicacy rich in collagen, reputed to enhance skin health. It is accompanied by egg custard and croquettes with mango sauce. Almost surreal in appearance, the plate exemplifies his prowess in evoking the natural world. Accentuating this earthy vision is a diverse assortment of Japanese tableware made of volcanic rock from Mount Fuji and the trunk of a Kobe pine tree. Says Ozawa, “I am constantly inspired by nature, by harmony.”

吴铭贤、黄伟棠、李国伟、谭景兴和欧建民五位好友在英国念书时，总会利用假期吃遍全欧洲，梦想有天能开一家自己的餐厅。随着 Le Rêve 在铜锣湾开张，他们的美梦终于成真。这家餐厅结合顶级日式食材、现代法国料理技术以及无限的想像力，提供饕客们独一无二的美食体验。吴铭贤、黄伟棠和李国伟负责餐厅营运大小事，厨房则由来自日本的新秀主厨小泽亮吾领军，他曾到法国兰斯的传奇米其林三星餐厅 L’Assiette Champenoise 担任海鲜厨师，精进自身厨艺。而在 Le Rêve，他的菜色兼顾技巧的创新及对法国传统的尊敬。这位主厨对食材的品质和产地要求甚高，恰好展现了日法料理的精髓。小泽主厨简明地指出：「法国料理，全新风味。」时令菜单中的小龙虾料理正是此句的最好诠释，只见新鲜龙虾旁伴以圆粒状的胡椒大蒜酱，还有形似鱼

籽但实际由海胆、白酒醋和橄榄油制成的晶莹圆状物。另一道名为 Vie 的原创菜色灵感则来自法国传统的奶油鳕鱼酪。主厨采用来自他家乡明石的鲷鱼，缀上牛蒡薄片和甜菜沫，旁面放以饰着辣椒颗粒的咸味费南雪蛋糕作点缀。同时，他也让丰美的牛肝菌菇、小茄子、甜菜芥末泡沫和浓缩牛肉汁伴着来自鹿儿岛的 A5 和牛一起上桌。而小泽主厨最超卓的菜色非珍稀独特的鳖肉莫属，以多种形式呈现，需事先预订才吃得到。这鲜有的日式珍馐含丰富胶原蛋白，对皮肤健康有很好的作用。他把鲜美的鳖肉放在蛋塔中，伴以日式可乐饼。超现实的外观展现了大厨精湛的技艺，把天然食材巧妙地融合在料理中。款式多元的特式餐具更让桌上美食增添一分气色：餐桌上的面包盘是由富士山的火山岩打造而成，其他则由神户的松树制成。小泽主厨说：「大自然和万物和谐总能带给我灵感，发挥创意。」 eastern lights

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喜迎阿尔萨斯之最

alsatian spring Three top local restaurants feature the food and wines of one of France’s most distinctive culinary regions.

Shellfish cooked different way, Light Spices, Potato Vichyssoise style 贝壳三重奏配马铃薯冷汤 ↗ Guillaume Galliot and João Pires

PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

御膳房

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

the tasting room TO CELEBRATE the eighth annual edition of Le French GourMay, the area’s popular Francophile food and wine festival, three of Macau’s premium venues – The Tasting Room, Jade Dragon, and Matinée – have created dining experiences to delight the French gourmand in everyone. The month-long event honors Alsace, whose unique cuisine is influenced by those of neighboring Germany and Switzerland. The Tasting Room’s Executive Chef Guillaume Galliot and Director of Wine João Pires have collaborated on a wine-pairing menu that spotlights the region’s select produce. “I’m not from Alsace, and I don’t cook the traditional food,” says Galliot. “But I’ve created some original dishes that pair beautifully with Alsatian wines.” The region’s most renowned producers will be featured. “They all make wine in completely different styles,” says Pires. “This will be a great opportunity to showcase the region’s wide variety. Not many chefs are really knowledgeable about wine, but I’m lucky – Guillaume loves wine and truly understands it.” A crisp pinot blanc is paired with a seafood dish of razor clams, lobster, and petite vegetables. “It’s the bouillon that gives the kick,” says Galliot. “The wine balances it to bring out the subtle flavors of the shellfish.”

为庆祝第八届法国五月美食节，这一港澳大受欢迎的美食佳酿年度盛事，新濠博亚娱乐集团旗下三家顶级食府：御膳房、誉珑轩和星屏精心打造各系列法式餐飨推广，挑逗大众的味蕾。此次为期一个月的盛宴聚焦阿尔萨斯，其独一无二的料理深受邻近德国和瑞士的影响。御膳房行政总厨 Guillaume Galliot 和葡萄酒总监 João Pires 共同设计了餐酒菜单，主「我打阿尔萨斯地区特色酒款。Guillaume 说：并非出身阿尔萨斯，也不遵从传统方式烹调，但我创作了几款非常适合搭配阿尔萨斯葡萄酒的别致菜色。」多个精选的知名酒庄将是次餐飨推广一「他们的酿酒风格完全不大亮点。 João 表示：同，这是展现该地区多元面貌的好机会。懂葡萄酒的厨师不多，但我很幸运，Guillaume 不仅热爱葡萄酒，而且对此了若指掌。」清爽白皮诺用来搭配由味道浓郁的蛏子、龙虾和迷你蔬菜组成的美味组合。Guillaume 解释：「高汤突出了整道搭配，白酒平衡调和，带出贝类幽微的鲜甜。」

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PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

誉珑轩

jade dragon

Stir-Fried Chicken with Chopped Ginger and Premium Soy Sauce 头抽沙姜煎法国鸡

「这个月我们会将一些非常特别的法式食材融入菜色中。」新濠天地中菜厨艺总监谭国锋说道。「身为高级中式食府，我们致力彰显传统粤菜精髓，这次我们选择混合搭配阿尔萨斯美丽的食材，制造惊喜。」谭师傅的法国五月美食节菜单包括鱼汤浸法国甘笋小玉瓜、露笋腰果爆法国牛仔柳，以及头抽沙姜煎法国鸡等特色佳肴。他说：「我们试图引进一种来自法国、品质与众不同的放养鸡，鸡肉先以酱油、米酒和麻油腌渍，然后双面锅煎，最后再与姜、香葱、青椒拌炒。结合法式食材与粤式风味和烹煮技巧，尽显创意美味。」

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“We’re incorporating some very special French ingredients in our cooking this month,” says Tam Kwok Fung, Director, Culinary Operations. “As a Chinese finedining restaurant, we honor the traditional Cantonese culinary style, but we’ll be mixing and matching it with the beautiful produce of Alsace.” Tam’s Le French GourMay menu features such dishes as braised carrots and squash in fish broth, stir-fried veal with asparagus and caramel cashews, and chicken with chopped ginger and premium soy sauce. “We’re sourcing a truly exceptional free-range chicken from France,” he says. “It’s first marinated in soy sauce, Chinese wine, and sesame oil, and then wok-seared on both sides. Finally, we stir-fry it with ginger, shallots, and green chili pepper. It’s a really intriguing combination of French ingredients with Cantonese flavors and techniques.”

星屏

matinée at studio city

Beckoning from every bakery window in Alsace throughout the year are its famous kouglofs, apple tarts, and bretzels. And during Le French GourMay this spring, all of them will be tempting passersby at Matinée, the lobby patisserie in Studio City’s Celebrity Tower. “I think these three specialties really define Alsatian baked goods,” says Executive Sous Chef Benjamin Le Roux. “We’re using the best ingredients, along with modern techniques and a lot of passion, to produce the most authentic results for our guests.” Benjamin’s kouglof is a high fluted ring of coffee bread filled with luscious rum-marinated raisins. Lemon and orange zest give the light, buttery dough its characteristic flavor, and the finished product is crowned with almonds and dusted with a snowfall of confectioner’s sugar. “Fruit tarts are also enormously popular in Alsace, so we’ve included a very classic apple tarte tatin,” says Benjamin. “It’s baked upside down to caramelize the apples underneath and then served with rich vanilla mousse on top.” 一年四季，阿尔萨斯的糕饼店都陈列著咕咕洛夫、苹果塔和蝴蝶脆饼等传统糕点。而在今年的法国五月美食节，它们将于新濠影汇明星汇大堂的优雅咖啡店「星屏」诱惑着路过的人们。行政副总厨「我认为这三种甜点真正代表了阿尔萨斯 Benjamin Le Roux 表示：的烘培经典。我们使用最上乘的食材，展现时尚技艺并投入满腔热忱，为顾客带来最正宗的甜点盛宴。」

Benjamin 的咕咕洛夫诱人十分，松软中空的咖啡面包填满著香气浓郁的兰姆酒渍葡萄干。柠檬和橙香赋予奶油面团专属的难忘风味，甜点顶端铺上杏仁，撒满细雪般的糖粉。「水果塔在阿尔萨斯也很受欢迎，所以我们推出非常经典的反烤苹果塔。」Benjamin 说。「烘烤此点心时上下颠倒，让底下的苹果和焦糖融和，最后在顶端涂

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

满厚厚的香草慕斯，一尝馥郁滋味。」

Traditional French Pastries 传统法式糕点

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

完美平衡

perfect balance Vida Rica’s master chef refines classic Cantonese with a contemporary touch that is fresh, light, and lean.

DAVID HARTUNG

Chef Wong Tak Wing 黄德荣师傅

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Oriental, Macau with the culinary experience of twenty-two years, many of them spent perfecting his skills at some of the city’s most notable Cantonese restaurants. His earliest introduction to cooking was performing kitchen chores and preparing meals for his own family. Soon he was tagging along with a friend whose brother worked as a professional chef, an adventure that influenced his decision to enroll in culinary school at age seventeen. “With Cantonese cuisine, it’s all about the perfect balance of flavors and textures,” Wong explains, “and it’s that fine balance that differentiates an excellent dish from a merely good one. In the past, factors like color and presentation were not really emphasized, but today every aspect of a dish has equal importance. We first have to connect with our diners visually, then through smell, and finally taste. My approach focuses on all these elements, and I especially like to highlight color and freshness in the presentation.” Wong prefers traditional methods and shies away from recent trends and fads that have influenced the way many chefs create and plate dishes. “Cantonese cooking has always been very precise,” he says, “and I stress clean, light, healthy eating – you’ll find lots of vegetables and lots of color from the great variety I use.” While dishes like abalone and sea cucumber are still considered classics, Wong takes an innovative approach that delivers the same complexity of flavor and texture that traditional cooking techniques produce, but without the heavy richness. These modern concepts are what lead the way in Wong’s creation of new dishes and then guide his sourcing of the best ingredients. “On my menu, you’ll see many more vegetable dishes, soups, and seafoods,” Wong explains. “The idea is to achieve full flavor through the properties of lightness, freshness, and texture. The most important thing, of course, is to put your heart into it and create an experience the guests will enjoy.”

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浓汤烩云南珍菌西红柿

Wong has a penchant for snacking on raw organic tomatoes, and his healthy habit became the inspiration for this dish. A halfcooked organic tomato is stuffed with crispy conpoy and sits in a rich pool of double-boiled chicken soup that brims with a bounty of Yunnan mushrooms and fresh spinach leaves.

柿当点心吃，健康的好习惯

黄德荣过去于香港多家知名顶级粤菜餐厅工作，厨艺历练长达 22 年，成就了一身好技艺。最近，他加入澳门文华东方酒店担任中餐行政总厨，其特选新菜单让饕客期待不已。黄总厨的烹饪生涯源于自家厨房，他经常下厨为家人做饭，并结识了好友担任专业厨师的哥哥，在其启发下，17 岁时毅然决定进入烹饪学校就读。说到广东菜，他表示：「让味道及口感达到完美平衡是决定一道菜色能否更上一层楼、成为卓绝佳肴的关键。过去厨师不甚重视配色及摆盘，现今一道菜则讲究面面俱到，首先用视觉引起客人的兴致，接着是香味，最后迎来味道。追求色香味俱全的同时，我也特别强调摆盘时的颜色搭配及新鲜感。」黄总厨偏好传统烹调方式，不像许多厨师一样因追随时下流行及趋势来改变做菜及摆盘的风格。他说：「烹调粤菜讲求精巧准确，而我个人特别重视清爽及健康的饮食餐单，因此我选用各式各样颜色丰富的蔬菜为烹调材料。」对于鲍鱼及海参等不可或缺的经典食材，黄总厨以创新手法炮制出的菜式既有传统烹煮的层次口感，却少了油腻感、吃起来清甜爽脆。这也正是黄总厨每每创作新菜色遵循「不悖于古，而利于今」的原则，指引他非最好的食材不选。黄总厨说明：「我的菜单上可找到各种充满蔬菜、汤品及海鲜的菜式，希望透过发挥食材爽脆、新鲜及一流的口感来达到极致美味的境界。但最重要的，当然是要用心投入，营造让客人享受的用餐体验。」

黄总厨平常喜欢把有机西红也成为这道菜的灵感来源。有机西红柿煮至半熟，铺上松脆的乾元贝，置于经精心细炖、味道丰厚的浓鸡汤上，旁边缀上各种云南珍菌及新鲜波菜。一口简单的味道，却让人觉得很不简单。

DAVID HARTUNG

CHEF WONG TAK WING comes to Mandarin

Poached tomato with mixed mushrooms and supreme broth

eastern lights

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Smoked and braised beef ribs with rock sugar and lime zest After hours of slow cooking, these ribs are served with generous drizzles of a sweet and savory mixture concocted from surprisingly simple ingredients: soy sauce and ketchup. Fluffy white buns nestle the tender, succulent meat. Chef Wong offers his take on braised ribs as a leaner choice over braised pork belly buns or crispy pork cracklings. 金牌牛肋骨牛肋骨经数小时慢煮诱人地端上桌，搭配的酱料甜咸交融。出人意料地，原来这浓郁的酱汁仅以常见的酱油及蕃茄酱调配而成。松软的白包饼夹入软嫩多汁的牛肉正对味。平常白包饼多用来夹猪腩肉或脆皮烤猪一起吃，黄总厨特制的熬煮牛肋骨可为饕客带来清爽低脂的好选择。

Steamed crab claw with egg white, crab roe and Hua Diao wine Achieving the ideal balance of yin and yang so highly prized in traditional Chinese cooking, Wong pairs aromatic huadiao rice wine with the crab, bringing yang warmth to an otherwise yin dish. The crab claw sits in a bed of traditional steamed egg white and is garnished with fish roe and caviar. “This dish is light and nutritious,” says Wong. “The saltiness of the roe and caviar merge with the fragrant wine to add another dimension.” 花雕蛋白蒸蟹钳阴阳协调可说是传统中菜追求的最高境界之搭配，中和蟹的寒性也突显蟹的鲜甜。蟹钳盛于传统清蒸的嫩滑蛋白上，放上些许鱼籽及鱼子酱作为点缀。黄总厨自豪的说：「这道菜富营养价值，鱼籽及鱼子酱的鲜味与香气扑鼻的酒味完美融合，更添味道的层次。」

TK | eastern lights

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

一，黄总厨将香气四溢的花雕酒与螃蟹相互

Assorted seafood rice with pork and vegetables in supreme broth T h e b a s i s o f t h i s d u a l - r i ce dish is the broth, inspired by a lobster bisque that Wong adapted for use in cooking rice to accompany seafood. T he result is a comforting bowl of grains with a potent distillation of the best of the sea. It’s topped with a sprinkling of rice crisps that are made by deep-frying individual grains. They give the dish layered textures of crispy and soft in a silky bath of rich bouillon lightly dressed with sesame seeds and corianders. Says Wong, “Compared to the usual fatty fried rice with heavy barbecued meats, this dish is a healthy and light alternative.” 海鲜汤泡西施饭汤底是这道汤泡饭的灵魂，灵感来自法式龙虾汤，黄总厨把它改良成为烹煮米饭的主料，搭配海鲜的美味，出来的成品让人食指大动。盛载著粒粒白饭的浓汤由各式精选海鲜熬煮而成，每口都注满丰富的蛋白质精华。洒于其上的是脆炸米粒，充份吸收缀以芝麻及香菜的浓汤，带来同时松脆又绵滑的口感，层次更显细致。黄总厨形容：「相较一般偏油的炒饭配重口味烧烤肉，这道菜实是鲜甜可口的好选择。」

PRESENTED BY COTTAGE VINEYARDS

名厨联手美味加成

four hands, one heart

Cannellini Bean Soup with Croutons, Crunchy Sage, Grilled Octopus 白腰豆汤配橄榄油包﹑烧八爪鱼

「西西里八爪鱼沸煮 “Sicilian octopus 两小时，接着迅速 is boiled for two 淋上橄榄油过烤， hours, then quickly 释出最棒的香气。 grilled in olive oil 汤的材料先用调理 to release its won机打成泥，包括洋 derful aroma. The 葱、马铃薯及味道 soup, which I purée 极甜的白豆，搭配 in a blender, is 炙烤海鲜，不管是 made with onions, potatoes, and white 味道或口感都形成 beans that are quite 鲜明的绝佳对比。 sweet, so the grilled 最后则以搭配植物及橄榄油烘烤的佛 seafood makes a 卡夏面包丁，加上 nice contrast in 炸鼠尾草点缀来收 flavor and texture. I 尾。」 finish with focaccia croutons baked with herbs and olive oil and accompanied by deep fried sage.”

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“The Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2013, which is 85 percent sangiovese and 15 percent syrah and petit verdot, has notes of black fruit, spice, balsamic, and pepper. Vegetarians will love this wine – it works really well with beans in tomato sauce, and it’s great for chunky soups.”

「Morellino di

Scansano DOCG 2013 由 85% 桑娇维塞及 15% 西拉葡萄和小维度葡萄种混酿而成，带有深黑色葡萄、香料、红酒醋及胡椒的味道。这支酒绝对会让茹素的客人爱不释手－和蕃茄酱汁豆类料理很对味，享用食材满满的粗粒汤时来上一杯正合时宜。」

IT SHOULD COME AS NO SURPRISE that the signature restaurant of a five-star hotel named for one of the most legendary figures of Italy would celebrate that country’s cuisine in a special way. And Cucina, with its spectacular views over Victoria Harbour, has come up with an equally spectacular event to do the Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel proud. In a one-night-only “four hands” dinner, Cucina’s Chef de Cuisine Andrea Delzanno has partnered with another celebrated chef, one who has also become a gifted winemaker, Diana Lenzi of the Fattoria di Petroio winery in Tuscany. Together, the pair have designed a menu that tells the story of the rich diversity of Tuscan wine traditions. Delzanno, who was born and raised in Piedmont, one of Italy’s gastronomic epicenters, has evolved a culinary philosophy that blends centuries of tradition with his own forward-looking approach to classic Italian cuisine. Although he’s been living in Hong Kong for nine years, he maintains a vibrant culinary connection with his homeland and is a champion of the country’s peerless produce and of its ability to match so uncannily with the region’s wines. Of Lenzi, Delzanno remarks, “She’s such a nice lady and such a great winemaker and chef. Her specialty is bringing these traditional dishes of Tuscany to life – even the bruschetta we serve as an appetizer has stracchino cheese and fresh Tuscan sausage.” The dinner is held in collaboration with Hong Kong–based Cottage Vineyards, a company that focuses on premium offerings from small to medium-sized boutique wineries that often have a single winemaker in charge of production. “These wines are the stage on which the food performs,” says Ada Leung, Sales & Marketing Director. “They complete the dining experience, showing off what these two chefs can do, emphasizing and interpreting everything the food has to say.”

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

The talents of two masters bring the food and wines of Tuscany to life at Cucina.

以意大利家喻户晓的传奇人物为名的五星级酒店旗下顶级餐厅，用独树一格的方式向意式美食致敬。「Cucina」餐厅坐拥可鸟瞰维多利亚港的绝佳视野，近来推出同样让人赞赏不已的特殊美食活动，让马哥孛罗香港酒店也倍感光荣。「四手晚宴」仅限一晚，由「Cucina」意藉总厨 Andrea Delzanno 与另一名知名大厨、同时也是托斯卡尼 Fattoria di Petroio 酒庄酿酒达人的 Diana Lenzi 携手打造一道道精致菜色，让托斯卡尼丰富多元的葡萄酒传统跃然活现于餐桌之上。 Andrea 在意大利美食重镇皮埃蒙特出生长大，烹饪哲学融合家乡数百年美食传统及勇于改良经典意式料理的创新手法。主厨移居香港 9 年，却从未与家乡断了联系，一手掌握皮埃蒙特全意大利无出其右的农产及同样高品质的地区葡萄酒最新资讯。谈到 Diana，主厨形容：「她人很好，也是专业无可挑剔的酿酒人及厨师。赋予托斯卡尼传统菜肴新的灵魂正是她的强项，像是作为开胃菜的意式烤面包上就有利古里亚经典起司及新鲜的托斯卡尼香肠。」晚宴共同承办单位香港「Cottage Vineyards」以搜罗中小型精致酒厂的顶级佳酿为主，该型酒厂也通常由单一酿酒人专职负责制造。「Cottage Vineyards」销售暨行销总监 Ada Leung 表示：「这些美酒正是食物一展美妙滋味的最佳平台，让用餐体验更加完整，两位大厨也得以展现自身绝活，描绘并诠释食物所代表的精神。」

From left to right: Fattoria di Petroio Lenzi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2011, Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2011 (5L), Molino di Sant’Antimo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2010

Pork Loin in a Crust of Tuscan Herbs, String Beans Wrapped in Pancetta, Roasted Potatoes 焗猪肩肉配烟肉卷

「我们使用整块猪鞍 “We use a whole 架，涂上百里香、 pork rack, crusted 蒜头、迷迭香及鼠 with mixed Tuscan 尾草等各式托斯卡 herbs, including 尼草本植物后送进 thyme, garlic, 烤箱，以 180 度烘 rosemary and sage. 烤猪肉转为粉红色 Then we roast it at 泽、多汁，再搭配 180 degrees until 烤马铃薯、豆子及 juicy and pink, and 烟肉卷即可上桌。」 serve it with roast potatoes, beans and pancetta.”

「Carmignano 这款 “Carmignano is a 酒许多人听都没听 wine that is largely 过，1716 年北意统 unknown. It was granted special legal 治者梅迪奇家族为了维护葡萄园的品 protection under an 质，甚至还颁布命 edict of 1716 by the 令，特设法律予以 Medici family who 保护。桑娇维塞葡 wanted to protect 萄品种与植物及蔬 the quality of vine菜极搭，酸度高、 yards. Sangiovese 单宁重且韵味优雅， loves herbs and 可说是餐酒搭配的 vegetables, the 首选。晚宴选用的 acidity is high, and DOCG Super Tuscan the tannins are so 相当特殊，盛于在 dense and elegant 香港相当罕见的五 that it’s able to do 公升超大酒瓶内。」 majestic pairings. This particular DOCG Super Tuscan is served in a 5L bottle – almost unheard of in Hong Kong.”

Tour of Tuscany Gambero Rosso Guest Chef Masterclass and Winemaker Dinner with 4 Winemakers

22 June 2016 Wednesday Masterclass only: $400; Dinner only: $988+ 10% service charge per person; Those attending both the masterclass and the dinner will receive a free bottle of Cantagallo Chianti Montalbano 2014. Parties interested in attending the Tuscan Masterclass and/or dinner can contact Cottage Vineyards at Tel. 852 2395 1293 or by email at tastings@cottagevineyards.com 大师讲座费用为400元正，晚宴费用每位988元加 10％服务费。详情可致电852 2395 1293或电邮至 tastings@cottagevineyards.com。

eastern lights

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TK | eastern lights

COCKTAILS

畅饮五月天

merry month of may

Max Traverse, Founder of Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge and Mahalo Tiki Lounge; Stephane Levan, General Manager of Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge, Co-Creator of the Rum Run and Co-Organiser of the Hong Kong Rum Fest.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The Hong Kong Rum Fest is now in its fourth edition, and this time out, the popular event features a special new segment dubbed Rum Run.

RUM RUN IS , if you will, a Twenty-six drinking establishments around the city are taking part in the affair, each with a unique rum cocktail created for the event. Rum aficionados participate throughout the month of May by stopping in at all twenty-six bars and ordering their special concoctions, priced at only HKD100 a pop. Max Traverse, founder of Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge and Mahalo Tiki Lounge, is spearheading the event along with Honi Honi Tiki General Manager Stephane Levan and Rum Fest Host Ian Burrell, London-based Global Rum Ambassador and industry veteran. The Rum Fest, taking place May 27-28 this year, invites both neophytes and connoisseurs to explore premium rums from all over the world, and Rum Run has been created to serve as leadup from May 1 to 27. Equipped with a Rum Run passport, participants receive a stamp for each drink ordered. After successfully collecting all twenty-six, aficionados return the passports to any of the participating bars. The first twenty who submit a completed passport before May 27 will have the chance to attend a master class with Ian Burrell and Max Traverse at the Rum Fest, and one of the winners will win a cash prize of over $2,000 HKD, with several of the bars also contributing cash or drinks prizes. Participating bars include newcomers on the scene as well as some of the best-loved watering holes across the territory, including Lily & Bloom, Flint Grill & Bar and Stockton. The Hong Kong Rum Fest, which takes place at Mahalo Tiki Lounge, features over 151 rums, including a number of varieties

Kraken Curse: Kraken Dark Spiced Rum, Homemade Lavender Vermouth, Cherry Heering & Fresh Grapefruit 香料冧酒、自制薰衣草苦艾酒、樱桃香甜酒与新鲜葡萄柚

全香港 26 间参与的酒吧均为「Rum Run（冧酒畅赏）」调制了独家冧酒。冧酒爱好者只要在五月活动期间前往任一间参与酒吧，便可以一杯仅 100 元港币的惊喜价饮品各家特制调酒。香港冧酒节正式迈入第四个年头，这一次更主打邀请众人响应的新活动 —「Rum Run」。在 Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge 与 Mahalo Tiki Lounge 创办人 Max Traverse 和 Honi Honi 总经理 Stephane Levan 的带领、及来自伦敦的全球冧酒品牌大使暨资深调酒专家，冧酒节主办方 Ian Burrell 的共襄盛举下，今年的冧酒节将于 5 月 2728 日盛大举行，并广邀调酒界新手与行家 eastern lights

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May 27-28, 2016, noon to 8:00 pm 2016年5月27-28日，中午至晚上八点 Free on-site admission 免费入场 Mahalo Tiki Lounge 29/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queens Road East, Wan Chai 香港湾仔皇后大道东202号QRE Plaza 29楼 q +852 2488 8750 https://www.facebook.com/rumfestivalhongkong

Hong Kong Rum Run May 1-27, 2016 2016年5月1-27日 HKD100 per drink 每杯100元港币 Rum Run passports must be returned by May 27. 冧酒护照须在5月27日交还。 Find the Hong Kong Rum Run on Facebook Participating bars: Bibo Boujis Cé La Vi Duddell’s (都爹利会馆) Fishsteria Seafood Place Flint Grill & Bar Frites Ham & Sherry Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge Le Boudoir Lily & Bloom Mahalo Tiki Lounge MyHouse ON Dining Kitchen & Lounge Paradis Restaurant & Cocktail Bar Pirata Quinary Rummin’ Tings Stockton The Continental The Envoy The Optimist The Pawn (和昌大押) The Pontiac The Woods Zuma Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge Website: http://www.honihonibar.com Mahalo Tiki Lounge Website: http://www.mahalotikibar.com

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一同探索寰宇顶级冧酒，5 月 1 日至 27 日的「Rum Run」更率先为此盛事揭开序幕。参加者每点一杯调酒就可在冧酒护照上盖一个章，成功搜集齐 26 个章后，可于 5 月 27 日前将护照交回给任一家参与的酒吧，前二十名就有机会参加冧酒节由 Ian Burrell 和 Max Traverse 主讲的大师课程，其中一位甚至可望赢取高达港币二千元正，部分酒吧更提供现金或饮品奖赏。参与酒吧有香港新秀，有些则长年备受酒迷青睐，例如 Lily & Bloom, Flint Grill & Bar 和 Stockton。今年香港冧酒节在 Mahalo Tiki Lounge 举行，将精心巨献逾 151 种冧酒，包括数种首次登港的酒款。尤其值得关注的是富有滑顺口感与些微椰子与奶油香的强力深色烈酒 Black Magic Black Spiced Rum，以及由马丁尼克和瓜德罗普出产、用甘蔗汁发酵制成的法式冧酒 Trois Rivierès。另一进口酒为在巴巴多斯出产的精酿冧酒 Bumbu，原料取自美洲八个国家的甘蔗，并在肯塔基波本橡木桶里陈年而成。参与香港冧酒节除了能享受冧酒无限畅饮外，还能聆听一系列大师课程与讲座，由世界花式调酒冠军 Nicolas Saint-Jean、知名香港调酒师 Sam Jeveons、伦敦夜店 Mahiki 酒吧经理 Georgi Radev 与巴厘岛热门 Potato Head Beach Club 的 Dre Masso 等多名国际冧酒专家共同主持。 2007 年，Ian Burrell 在英国创办了第一届冧酒节，自此激发全球各大城市争相仿效。冧酒节同时造福消费者与商家，至今仍为全球最大的盛事之一，让酒迷们得以品饮稀世奢华调酒。 2012 年，Max 首度将热带风情酒吧引入香港，其新开张的玻里尼西亚风 Honi Honi Tiki Lounge 大获成功，佳评如潮，于是三年后又开了 Mahalo Tiki Lounge。他出身自法国，后来旅居伦敦，在多家高级酒吧精进调酒技艺，累积了 14 年业界资历，现正试图「教导消费者关于冧酒的一切，使他们深深爱上冧酒。」 Max 表示创办「Rum Run」念头早已在心中酝酿中多年。他解释道：「Rum Run 搭着冧酒节的顺风车，一方面庆贺酒吧业的成功，一方面将概念介绍给香港民众。」冧酒节现备有 1500 本 Rum Run 护照， Max 希望此活动能让消费者认识更多香港顶级酒吧与调酒师：「我们希望愈多人参与愈好。」

DAVID HARTUNG (1)

Hong Kong Rum Fest 香港冧酒节

being imported to the city for the first time. Deserving of notice are Black Magic Black Spiced Rum, a potent dark spirit with a smooth depth and hints of coconut and butter, as well as Trois Rivierès, a French plantation rhum agricole fermented from cane juice in Martinique and Guadeloupe. Another entry is Bumbu, a craft rum produced in Barbados with sugarcane sourced from eight countries across the Americas and aged in Kentucky bourbon barrels. Visitors to the festival will find more than limitless rum-sampling. There will also be an array of master classes and seminars, hosted by international rum experts, including Nicolas Saint-Jean, World Flair Bartender Champion; Sam Jeveons, renowned HK mixologist; Georgi Radev, bar manager of London nightlife institution Mahiki; and Dre Masso of Bali hotspot Potato Head Beach Club. Ian Burrell founded the original Rum Fest in the UK in 2007, and it has served as inspiration for others in cities around the globe. Equally consumer- and trade-friendly, it still holds sway as one of the largest, offering top-tier blends that drinkers would be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. A trailblazer of the tiki bar concept in Hong Kong, Traverse opened Polynesianthemed Honi Honi Tiki Lounge to great success in 2012, followed by Mahalo Tiki Lounge three years later. Having honed his craft at top bars across his native France and later in London, he has racked up fourteen years’ experience in the industry, and now he’s looking to “educate and excite consumers on all things rum.” Traverse, who says the idea behind Rum Run has been in the works for several years, explains the concept: “Riding on the established popularity of the Rum Fest, Rum Run will serve as a link between celebrating the bar industry’s successes and spreading the word to consumers in Hong Kong.” And with 1,500 Rum Run passports available, Traverse hopes the event will also be an opportunity to introduce patrons to the city’s best bars and mixologists. “We want to get as many people involved as possible.”

Forgotten Nights: Chairman Reserve Forgotten Cask, Homemade Blueberry & Ginger Jam, Grand Marnier, Lime, Basil, Pineapple Chairman Reserve Forgotten Cask 自制蓝莓姜味果酱、干邑橙酒、莱姆、罗勒、凤梨

Philippe Bera

WINE MASTER

精品酒投资札记

wine appreciation Mamie Chen meets with Philippe Bera, COO of Omtis Fine Wines, as well as Hervé Berland, CEO of Château Montrose, to discuss the importance of provenance, their shared belief in the ancient trading system of La Place de Bordeaux, and the mutually beneficial relationships between Omtis and wine estates.

§ Mamie Chen 在与安天时酒库集团的营运总监贝利飞先生 (Philippe Bera) 以及玫瑰庄园董事总经理 Hervé Berland 的会面中交流着葡萄

酒原产地的重要性，他们分享彼此对传统交易所广场的共同看法，并关注安天时集团和葡萄庄园背后密

DAVID HARTUNG

切的互惠关系。

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Tasting Kitchen: Omtis is often described as a “wine bank.” What does that mean? Philippe Bera: We store a very large inventory that will only continue to grow. And because we own the stock, we’ve put our money where our mouth is, so our clients know they can trust our products. Separate from the inventory we own, we’re entering the business of wine storage. But we’ll only store wines for our clients that we have sourced ourselves. The rationale behind that is that if ten years later our client wants to sell the wine, we can buy it back from him because we know where it’s been, and we can sell it again to another client. We’re creating a trading platform where our clients are guaranteed provenance. TK: Is it riskier to hold the inventory rather than just to be a wine broker? PB: Not if you have the capital and the patience. The period of 2011 to 2012 was a perfect example. We had just bought a large amount of wine, and anyone else at that point might have said “oh, my God,” but we just shrugged our shoulders. If we didn’t want to sell at a loss, then we’d just

TK | eastern lights

have to wait and trust it would come back. And actually, we’re seeing that now. In our minds, there is no question that good wine appreciates. It’s just a question of how long you are willing to wait. Back in the day, wine merchants were all holders of stock. But then people began thinking more short-term, and with the high interest rates in the 1970s and 1980s, the whole dynamic changed. Hervé Berland: I think there are three factors. The first is the final consumers’ attitude towards en primeur or early acquisition of their wines for their cellars. Half of them are still willing to buy every year with a certain budget to spend on wine. But the other half are asking “why should I put my money up front? I’m not a speculator, I’m not a trader. I want to buy wine that I can drink today and it makes no sense to buy en primeur.” So as a consequence, this has an impact on the initial sales. The traders are supposed to buy what the people will buy. And, as you quite rightly said, with few exceptions, the traders have fewer resources than before. Also, the system of en primeur was invented to give the châteaux the cash they

needed to run the estates every year. The owners of Château Montrose, the Bouygues family, are exactly the new type of owners in Bordeaux. They didn’t buy Montrose to make cash today, they bought Montrose as a long-term investment for the family. This has changed the perspective on en primeur. Owners don’t have an absolute need to sell the entire crop year after year. They can afford to keep more at the château. And we do. Last but not least is the issue of provenance. That a bottle of wine looks good on the outside does not guarantee good wine on the inside. Provenance is absolutely crucial, and the private wine buyer will privilege the shortest possible distance between themselves and the château. TK: When you have a close relationship like yours between the château and the merchant, do you still have to trade via a négociant? HB: The négociants are our primary selling network. They are based in Bordeaux, so we can talk to them easily and they have a sales force and are fully operational around the world. It would be much more difficult

WINE MASTER

RED DOG STUDIO (3)

Hervé Berland and Philippe Bera

– actually, it would be totally impossible – for us to handle direct distribution. Now I know Philippe very well, so I could say “let’s deal directly together,” but this is not the case for many other traders. And we cannot have one system for some and another system for others. PB: When it comes to purchasing wines, everything goes through the négociants. We pay the premium because we believe in the system and we respect the tradition. Our relationship with the châteaux means we get allocations. If I want a vintage but the négociant tells me they don’t have stock, I can call the château and they will direct that quantity through the négociant, saying “this is for Omtis.” HB: I can easily supply a company like Omtis with our wine because I trust the job they do, whereas I would hesitate to supply somebody I don’t know. PB: And you also have those hidden gems. HB: But I can only release those hidden gems if I know the company who is buying it and almost the person they are selling it to. Because then the chain is complete.

Tasting Kitchen: 常有人形容安天时是一间「葡萄酒银行」，请问这是什么意思？ Philippe Bera: 我们的酒库储藏大量葡萄酒，而且只会日益增加。正因我们拥有这些酒，并且重视口碑，客户就知道我们的产品值得信赖。除了我们自己贮藏的酒，我们也著手仓储服务，但只会为客户收藏我们亲自搜寻来的酒。若十年后客户想卖酒，我们可以从客户手中买回来，因为我们知道酒的来历，就可以再卖给别的客户。这样就创造出一个交易平台，能向客户保证酒的来历。 TK: 拥有酒库的风险是否比仅作为酒商更高？ PB: 如果具备资金和耐心就不会， 2011 到 2012 年间就是个很好的例子。那时我们刚购入大量葡萄酒，别人可能会惊叹「天哪！」，但我们只是耸耸肩。如果不想亏钱，就必须等待，相信能够赚得回来，而且事实上我们已经有成果了。我们坚信好酒只会增值，端看你愿意等多长时间而已。过去酒商都有酒藏，但后来人们变得短视近利，加上 1970 和 1980 年代利率很高，整个风气就改变了。 Hervé Berland: 我认为有三个因素。

第一，最终消费者对期酒的态度很重要，也就是购买还在酒桶内处于成熟期成的酒，用以收藏。有半数消费者仍愿意每年花一定的预算购买藏酒，但另一半人则在质疑「我为何要那么早花钱？我不是投机客，也不是交易商，我想买今天就能入口的品尝的酒，买期酒葡萄酒期货毫无意义」。这种态度会影响初期销售成果。实际上酒商应该会收购入大众会买的酒，而且就如同你刚刚说的，酒商的资源比过去少了，几乎无一例外。再加上期酒交易兴起是为了提供酒庄每年营运所需的现金。拥有玫瑰庄园的布依格家族正是波尔多的新型庄主，他们购买庄园不是为了今天需要的现金，而是作为一种家族的长期投资。这已经改变了对葡萄酒期货的概念。庄主不再需要每年彻底销售所有收成，而能在酒庄贮藏更多，我们就是如此。最后是来历的问题。一瓶外表精致的葡萄酒并不能保证里面也一样好，来源绝对是关键，私人买主会享有优待，可较易地直接向酒庄买酒。 TK: 既然贵公司与酒庄和商家之间关系如此密切，还需透过酒商交易吗？ HB: 酒商是我们在波尔多内最主要的销售网络，我们能轻易与他们沟通，而他们也有遍布全世界的销售团队。要我们直接经销会困难许多，老实说几乎不可能。现在我和 Philippe 很熟了，就可以我们直接说好就好，但与许多其他商家并不是这样，而且我们不能对不同商家采用不同的交易系统。 PB: 买酒要经过酒商，我们愿意支付高价费用。因为我们信任这个交易系统，也尊重这项传统。我们与酒庄保持密切关系，因而能够获得购酒份额。如果我想要年份酒，但酒商没有存货，我就可以打电话给酒庄，他们就会直接分配一定数量给酒商，指明「这些是要给安天时的」。 HB: 我随时可以供货给像安天时这样的公司，因为我信任他们，但要我供货给不熟悉的酒商，我就会犹豫。 PB: 而且你还有隐藏版精品酒。 HB: 我只会将隐藏版精品酒提供给我认识、也大概知道他们会卖给谁的买主，因为这样来历才完整清晰。 eastern lights

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Beanie Espey and Rebecca Jago

WHISKY MASTER

严选精粹以罕为贵

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A dedicated band of “spirit hunters” tracks down the world’s most elusive and exclusive liquors.

REBECCA JAGO, Creative Director of The Last Drop Distillers Limited, sees no need to advertise the company’s products. “We market to the few, rather than the masses,” she explains of her unique business of seeking out rare and forgotten spirits of exceptional quality, bottling them when they reach their pinnacle of maturity, and releasing them in very small quantities to connoisseurs. Jago’s colleague, Sales & Marketing Director Beanie Espey, gives some of the background: “Our fathers, James Espey and Tom Jago, together with their good friend Peter Fleck, started the business in 2008 when they retired from high-ranking jobs in the drinks industry. After having worked together to launch big million-case brands, they wanted to do something at the other end of the spectrum.” The three began their quest in Scotland, searching for and tasting overlooked casks of whisky, always on the lookout for the perfect synthesis of age, class, and complexity. In a corner of one distillery near Glasgow lay three sherry casks that had been filled in 1972 with a blend of fine twelveyear-old whiskies. During aging, the contents had given up a large and inevitable proportion to evaporation – what is known as the angels’ share – and the team decided it was high time to return the prized remainder to the mortal plane. They acquired it, bottled it, and released it in early 2008 as their first offering: The Last Drop 1960 Blended Scotch Whisky. One reason there have been only five releases since then is that time spent lingering in wood can often be unkind to spirits. “We say ‘no’ a lot,” says Jago. “The team has to agree on everything to be sure we never

The Last Drop 48 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky

compromise on quality.” In 2015, their 48 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky was named Scotch Whisky of the Year by the Whisky Bible, and the company has also diversified its collection to include a rare Cognac. Ruthlessly elitist, they won’t allow their heads to be turned simply by age, an engaging backstory, or fancy provenance. “It’s all about the liquid,” explains Jago. “The packaging is luxurious but simple – we don’t do bling. We discover something amazing and then time its release so the flavor is at its absolute peak. We don’t want this to be for everybody, only for those people who will truly love and enjoy it.” The Last Drop is exclusively distributed in Hong Kong by Crown Wine Cellars, and in Macau by Prem1er Hospitality Management.

烈酒专家 The Last Drop Distillers 创意及制作总监 Rebecca Jago 认为她们的产品毋须打广告：「我们的市场并非针对普罗大众，而是特定的客群。」这句话简要地诠释了品牌的独有专注找出被遗忘的稀世美酒，等待最佳熟成期后装入瓶中只待小数的爱酒之仕一尝。销售及市场总监 Beanie Espey 告诉我们一切的由来：「我们的父亲 James Espey 和 Tom Jago ，和好友 Peter Fleck 在 2008 年从烈酒业务的高层职位退休后创立了这家公司。」三位创始人从苏格兰展开搜索之旅，寻找被人遗忘的珍品威士忌，期盼找到年份、等级和口味复杂性都能完美搭配的醇醴。在苏格兰格拉斯哥附近的一座酒厂角落里，静置着三个雪莉桶，里头盛着 1972 年注入的十二年威士忌，在熟陈的过程中大部分酒液已蒸发流失，也就是天使的分享。三人认为是时候让遗珍回归凡间，他们取出桶中佳酿装瓶，制成了于 2008 年首次发行的 The Last Drop 1960 年苏格兰混合威士忌。自此后，这样的佳酿发行也只有五次。长期处于木桶里会对烈酒的品质影响甚深。Rebecca 表示：「团队在每件事上都要细细斟酌，确保对质量不会有任何的妥协。」发行当中包括酒龄为 48 年、曾於 2015 年威士忌圣经中获年度最佳苏格兰威士忌的苏格兰混合威士忌。现在品牌「狩猎」的目标不只是优质威士忌，一种稀有的法国白兰地也成了新宠。无论是酒的年份、背后的渊源或出自名产地等诱因，也未曾令这群严格的「醇酒猎人」有所动摇。Rebecca 说：「我们只在意这些酒是否珍稀佳良，产品的包装需简约高贵。我们不断去发掘独特的酒种，量测其挥发的时间，在口感臻于完美时才装入瓶中。这些佳酿不是人人可得，而是专属于那些会真正喜爱它们的鉴赏家。」

The Last Drop 的香港及澳门分销分别由烈酒进口商 Crown Wine Cellars 和 Prem1er Hospitality Management 独家代理。 eastern lights

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琴酒三种表情

three takes on tanqueray A trio of stand-out bartenders at three of Swire Hotels’ top venues strut their stuff with Tanqueray.

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最新加入太古广场的餐厅凭着讨喜迎宾又诙谐的风格迅速抢占香港的美食版图。「Mr & Mrs

Fox」三层楼建筑餐饮风景各异，融合质朴乡村与华丽风格的内装由香港室内设计工作室

Charlie & Rose Ltd 所操刀，让人联想到许多经典儿童故事中的要角－那狡猾又谐趣的狐狸特色，也转化为餐厅内别出心裁且让人会心一笑的设计元素。

MR & MRS FOX

地下酒吧由投入特调鸡尾酒发展十多年的尼泊尔籍调酒师 Thapa Rosan 领军。 Thapa 两年前加入太古集团时先进驻东隅酒店的「Sugar」酒吧，接着才来到「Mr & Mrs Fox」。说到角色定位，他强调自己是「吧台领班」，而非调酒师。他说：「调酒师的名号未经多年苦心钻研可配不上，我还未到那境界！我对经典调酒心存敬意，改良每每点到为止。」

Thapa 提到依据一份 19 世纪草图打造的大型铁铸调酒机器「Imperial Shaker」时指出：「我们家的 Fox Fizz for Two 用 Imperial

Shaker 来做刚刚好。冰块、Tanqueray、蛋白、玫瑰水、奶油、香草精、莱姆汁、柠檬汁及糖浆混和，摇和后倒入梅森罐中，放上液态氮过洗、新鲜升级的覆盆莓便大功告成。」「琴酒中属 Tanqueray 最百搭，带点杜松味，不会太重或过淡。根据许多客人的说法，绝对是早餐饮料的绝佳选择！」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

This latest entry in the Swire portfolio is a welcomely whimsical addition to the city’s dining scene, offering a variety of dining diversions on three floors. The restaurant’s “rustic-meets-ritzy” interiors, created by Hong Kong design studio Charlie & Rose Ltd, evoke the sly and mischievous character of the fox who inhabits a number of classic children’s fables, making for some highly entertaining design touches. The ground floor bar is headed up by Thapa Rosan, a native of Nepal, who has chalked up more than a decade of professional bartending experience in the development of handcrafted signature cocktails. Rosan, who joined the Swire group two years ago, was with Sugar at East hotel before coming to Mr & Mrs Fox. His position, he points out, is Bar Leader, not Mixologist. “You only get that after years and years of research, and I’m not there yet! I have huge respect for classics – we twist them just enough.” “Our Fox Fizz for Two is perfect for the Imperial Shaker, possibly the world’s most impressive cocktail-making machine,” says Rosan, referring to an enormous cast iron mechanism recreated from a nineteenthcentury drawing. “In goes ice, Tanqueray, egg whites, rosewater, cream, vanilla extract, lime juice, lemon juice, and sugar syrup. After shaking, it’s poured in a mason jar and topped with a raspberry that we wash in liquid nitrogen to make it fresher. “Tanqueray is the easiest gin to play with. There are little hints of juniper in it, not too strong or too light. Presentation-wise, it looks great, and when it comes to sipping, many customers swear it’s an ideal breakfast drink!”

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T H E C O N T I N E N TA L Timothée Becqueriaux is Operations Manager at The Continental, Swire Hotels’ knockout restaurant and bar in swank Pacific Place, and he looks every inch the nineteenth-century Parisian barman, complete with impeccable waxed moustache. So it’s little wonder that one of his signature drinks features the legendary spirit absinthe, beloved of fin de siècle artists and bohemians for its purportedly hallucinogenic properties. Born in France, Becqueriaux has spent the major part of his life in Asia, largely in Hong Kong and Singapore. Having worked in some of the city’s most popular bars, he was named among the Top 25 Bartenders in Hong Kong and Macau in 2014 and he won the Best Cocktails award from the Hong Kong Tatler’s Best Of Awards 2016 for his work at The Continental. Given the minute size of the bar he has to work in, Becqueriaux manages to perform major alchemy using techniques from fat washing to liquid nitrogen, all in kitchen space borrowed from new chef Joey Sergentakis. Regarding the genesis of one of his signature drinks and its quirky name, Becqueriaux explains, “I’ve been reading up a lot on absinthe. The French phrase étrangler un perroquet , which means ‘to strangle 太古酒店 (Swire Hotel) 旗下首屈一指的餐厅酒吧「The a parrot,’ was slang for drinking Continental」座落于引领风尚的太古广场内，营运经理 Timothée absinthe. Becqueriaux 从头到脚，加上打理完美的小胡子，一派 19 世纪绅 “Strangled Parrot is a simple 士风格。也无怪乎他的招牌调酒总少不了 19 世纪末骚人墨客及 drink , a twist on a contempo 波希米亚风艺术家们所钟爱的、深具传奇色彩的艾碧斯 (absinthe) rary classic, the basil smash. The 酒，入口就能体验那带有迷幻成分的琼浆玉露。 Tanqueray botanicals work perfectly Timothée 出身法国，人生至今却有大半时间住在亚洲，尤 – in fact this gin goes well in any 其在香港及新加坡待得最久。他曾于香港多家著名酒吧历练， refreshing summer cocktail. It acts 2014 受封香港及澳门前 25 大最佳调酒师，2016 年更是凭他在 as a good base for the drink with 「The Continental」的调酒夺下香港豪奢杂志 Tatler 年度最佳大奖 its freshly squeezed lime juice, 中的最佳鸡尾酒奖项。 muddled fresh basil leaves, and 酒吧工作空间局促，于是他向新任主厨 Joey Sergentakis 商 lower-ABV chocolate absinthe. I pour, muddle, shake, 借厨房空间，运用油脂浸泡及液态氮等花式调酒技巧，幻化出一 and double-strain over ice. We use a corner here as 杯杯梦幻调酒。 an ice station for crafting a big rock of ice, and I even 说到以「勒毙鹦鹉 (Strangled Parrot)」此一怪名声名远播的 sourced a wax stamp with my moustache outline on 「有关艾碧斯酒问我就对了，法招牌调酒起源，Timothée 解释： it to give the drink a final personal touch!” 文中说到勒毙鹦鹉其实就是形容喝艾碧斯的一种俚俗说法。」

「勒毙鹦鹉作法很简单，可说是当代经典调酒 basil smash 的正是各式清爽夏季鸡尾酒的良伴。Tanqueray 有清新的莱姆榨汁、捣碎的新鲜罗勒叶，以及低酒精含量的巧克力艾碧斯，为此款调酒基酒的不二选择。倒酒、捣制、摇和、双重过滤后倒在冰上。餐厅内有专门的制冰区，可以做出想要的大型冰块。我甚至依据我的八字胡做了个蜡印，让勒毙鹦鹉上桌时更添一丝个人风格！」

TK | eastern lights

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

创新版本。Tanqueray 琴酒中的草本植物成分发挥得恰到好处，

Lemongrass Deluxe 柠檬草盛宴

Summer Southside 夏日南方

“This is really refreshing – great for spring and summer,” says Sahni. “Tanqueray No. TEN gives it notes of grapefruit, and even some elderflower. We add lime juice and mint, shake it, and then pour in a little touch of bubbles for fizz and flavor before double straining. It’s my take on a classic – we always twist drinks a little to make them even better. I serve it in a rock glass, just one block of ice garnished with three cucumber slices and a grapefruit twist.”

“I muddle very fragrant lemongrass,” explains Sahni, “then add apple juice, lemon juice, simple syrup for sweetness and flavor, and a little bit of elderflower. Tanqueray No. TEN is beautiful: lemony, citrusy, with juniper notes always there. It’s a pleasure to work with because it really boosts the flavors of the drink as a whole. We shake and stir it out, but don’t double strain, and then serve it with a stick of lemongrass as garnish. It’s a very aromatic and flavorful drink, and the container around it is filled with ice to keep it chilled. It’s the second most popular drink here.” 「香气浓郁的柠檬草捣碎，加入苹 Ronald 说明：果汁、柠檬汁、简单的糖浆取其甜度及味道，以及一点接骨木花。Tanqueray No. TEN 真的很美妙：柠檬气息、柑橘味及杜松香气萦绕不散。这支酒很好用，可以提升调酒的整体风味。我们摇和、搅拌，但不双重过滤，最后插上一根柠檬草作为装饰。这款调酒香气及味道均相当浓郁，上桌时盛于倒满冰块的容器中，维持冷冽的好滋味。柠檬草盛宴是我们餐厅排名第二受欢迎的鸡尾酒。」

谈到这款调酒，Ronald 表示：「真的非常清新，春天或夏天享受再适合不过。Tanqueray No. TEN 带来些许葡萄柚，甚至一点接骨木花的味道。调制时加入莱姆汁及薄荷，摇和后倒出带有些许泡沫，在双重过滤前先起泡、引发味道。我喜欢这样重新演绎经典，找到可以翻玩的地方，让鸡尾酒味道更上一层楼。夏日南方倒入烈酒杯后上桌，杯里仅有一角冰块，点缀三片小黄瓜，并放上葡萄柚带来惊喜效果。」

TK | eastern lights

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THE UPPER HOUSE 奕居

Ronald Kumar Sahni, who is half English and half Chinese and was born in Hong Kong, has followed a fascinatingly untraditional path to his current status as one of the city’s most respected beverage chefs. Starting out in fine dining, he moved away from the field to become a drama teacher and then a butcher. But the call of bartending proved irresistible, in large measure because he missed the interaction with colleagues and patrons. It was at The Peninsula that Sahni earned his stripes, eventually taking over the bar at Felix before moving to Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House in Pacific Place, Swire’s breathtaking complex that continues to dazzle guests since its opening in 2009. “It’s pretty spectacular on the forty-ninth floor,” he says, “very busy, and I’m working with a great team of seven who help me oversee every aspect of beverages at The Upper House.” Ronald Kumar Sahni 为中英混血，香港出生，可说是走过一段非常人所及的神奇之旅才到现今全香港最受推崇的调酒大师地位。先是进入高级料理界，接着 180 度大转变成为戏剧老师、甚至从事屠宰业。但调酒的呼唤始终没停过，魅力无法可挡，他也着实怀念与同事

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

及客人互动的时光。

Ronald 的调酒才华首先在半岛酒店获得肯定，乃至掌管酒店顶级餐厅「Felix」的吧台，接着转战太古集团位于太古广场开幕的顶级酒店「奕居」旗下「Café Gray Deluxe」餐厅，自 2009 年开业以来便以高级餐饮让客人惊喜不断。他形容：「在 49 楼居高临下感觉真的很棒，工作很忙碌，我和团队合作无间，奕居所有酒水都要经过我们的高规格检视才能过关。」

eastern lights

TK |

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TK | EASTERN LIGHTS

RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE 208 Duecento Otto

Rustic Italian 208 Hollywood Road, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道208号 q +852 2549 0208 5

Café Gray Deluxe

European 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港金钟道88号太古广场奕居49楼 q +852 3968 1106 Daily: Breakfast: 06:30-10:30 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Afternoon Tea: 15:30-17:30 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Chachawan

Thai-Issan 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道206号地下 q +852 2549 0020 5

Chef’s Table by Chef Stephan Zoisl

61 Tras St, Singapore 079000 q +65 6224 4188

Cucina

Italian 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀海港城广东道3号马哥孛罗香港酒店6楼 q +852 2113 0088 Daily: Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Afternoon Tea: 15:00-17:30 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Bar & Terrace: 12:00-01:00 A Smart Casual 5

Duddell’s 都爹利会馆

Cantonese 3/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环都爹利街 1号上海滩3楼 q +852 2525 9191 A Smart Casual 5

El Celler de Can Roca

Can Sunyer, 48, 17007, Girona, Spain q +34 972 222 157

Foodgears Industrial International Ltd. 福基国际工业股份有限公司 Room 3105, New Tech. Plaza, 34 Tai Yau Street, San Po Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙新蒲岗大有街34 号新科技广场3105室 q +852 2322 1222

TK | eastern lights

Ham & Sherry

1-7 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔船街1-7号 q +852 2555 0628

Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge Bar & Lounge 3/F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环威灵顿街52号 Somptueux Central3楼 q +852 2353 0885 Mon to Fri: 17:00-02:00 Sat: 18:00-02:00 Sun: 15:00-23:00 5

Jade Dragon誉珑轩

Cantonese Level 2, The Shops at The Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道二楼 q +853 8868 2822 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers ankle-deep with closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room. 5

Legle France Shanghai Flagship Store 法国丽固上海旗舰店

Sinan Mansions, Room 102, Building 15, No.523, Md. Fuxing Road, Shanghai, China 中国上海复兴路523号15 号楼102室思南公馆 q +86 21 6208 8629/8633

Le Rêve

Japanese & French 10/F, ZING ! 38 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾耀华街38号10楼 q +852 2866 1010 Daily: 18:00 to 23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Mahalo Tiki Lounge

Bar & Lounge 29/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queens Rd East, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔皇后大道东202 号QRE Plaza 29楼 q +852 2488 8750 Mon to Thur: 12:00-02:00 Fri: 12:00-03:00 Sat: 18:00-03:00 Sun: 16:00-00:00 5

Mak Mak

Thai Shop 217 A, 2/F Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15号置地广场中庭2楼217A号铺 q +852 2983 1003 5

Matinée 星屏

Restaurant André

Bar & Lounge Shop 1190, Level 1, Celebrity Tower at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠影汇酒店明星汇一楼1190店 q +853 8865 6580 Daily & Public Holidays: 08:00-23:00

Meen & Rice 粥粉面饭 Cantonese The Pulse Shop 113, 1/F, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong 香港浅水湾海滩道28号 The Pulse 1楼113号铺 q +852 2566 8886 5

Ministry of Crab Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo 01, Sri Lanka q +94 112 342 722

Mr & Mrs Bund 6/F, Bund Eighteen, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Huangpu, Shanghai, China 中国上海市中山东一路 18号外滩18号6楼 q +86 21 6323 9898

Mr & Mrs Fox International 23 Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong 香港鲗鱼涌太古坊糖厂街23号 q +852 2697 8500 Mrs Fox: Mon to Thur & Sun: 11:00-23:00 Fri & Sat: 11:00-00:00 Mr Fox: Mon to Fri: Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:00-22:00 Sat & Sun: Brunch: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

Nihonbashi 11 Galle Face Terrace, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka q +94 112 323 847

Omtis Fine Wines Cellar 安天时酒库酒窖 Suite M1, 10/F, Kaiser Estate Phase 3, 11 Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙红磡鹤园街十一号凯旋工商中心三期十楼M1室 q +852 2333 0241

French 41 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore 089855 q +65 6534 8880 A Smart Casual

Tippling Club

38 Tanjong Pagar Rd, Singapore 088461 q +65 6475 2217

The Kitchen at Bacchanalia 39 Hongkong St, Singapore 059678 q +65 9179 4552

The Continental

European Unit 406, 4/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港金钟道太古广场4楼406号铺 q +852 2704 5211 Daily: Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Afternoon Tea: 15:00-17:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Brunch: Sat & Sun: 11:00-14:30 A Smart Casual 5

The Tasting Room 御膳房

French Level 3, Crown Towers at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒店三楼 q +853 8868 6681 Daily: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room. Gentlemen should refrain from wearing sleeveless t-shirts, shorts, open shoes (sandals) or slippers. 5

Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet European 18 Waitan, Huangpu, Shanghai, China 中国上海市外滩18号

Vida Rica 御苑餐厅

Chinese & Western 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8918 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Waku Ghin

2/F Dining, L2-01, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave, Singapore 018956 q +65 6688 8507

TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

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”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

DESSERT

Executive Head Chef Ivan Brehm of Singapore’s Bacchanalia caramelizes quince, and at the same time preserves its delicate fragrance, by gently poaching it for twenty-four hours at 83°C. He pairs it with buckwheat crumble, rosewater fromage blanc, fennel oil, fresh apple, Medjool dates, and a unique lentil-and-date vegan sorbet whose rich and creamy texture is achieved entirely by means of technical manipulation of the lentil milk.

DAVID HARTUNG

新加坡Bacchanalia行政总厨Ivan Brehm将榲桲放置在83度中缓缓浸煮24小时, 焦糖化同时保留其细致的香气, 然后搭配碎荞麦、玫瑰露白乳酪、茴香油、新鲜苹果、椰枣, 以及一种由扁豆与枣打制而成的纯素雪葩, 其浓稠滑顺的口感完全出自于技术炮制扁豆奶的手法, 十分独特。

TK | eastern lights

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