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Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.
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ON THE COVER
Photography by David Hartung
Tibetan medicine practitioner Amchi Sewang Gyurme Gurung spends hours in the countryside around the small town of Jomsom in Lower Mustang, Nepal, collecting wild plants. With an encyclopedic knowledge of the healing properties of herbs and flowers, he harnesses their power as natural medicines. Guests at Shinta Mani Mustang resort can benefit from a personal consultation with him about managing their health.
在尼泊尔下木斯塘,藏医
Amchi Sewang Gyurme Gurung每天会前往乔姆松小镇 周边的山野采集野生植物,并 运用他对香草和花卉的渊博知 识制作天然良药。 来到木斯塘 圣塔玛尼酒店,您可以根据自 身情况向这位藏医大师咨询养 生之道。
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6 | TK | cloud kingdom
series of Himalayan excursions.
Each day brings new challenges and opportunities for connection. There are encounters with local schools, ancient temples, talented village chefs, long swinging bridges, and mountain lake picnics. Daytime is for hiking boots and walking sticks; evenings are for sampling local dishes back at the retreat and sharing stories at the bar. The shared intensity of the experience creates a sense of community, and our bonds with nature form lasting memories.
Our exploration of Nepal in this issue doesn’t stop with Lower Mustang. TK Director of Photography David Hartung contributes his vivid impressions, in both words and pictures, of the people, places, and traditions he discovered in the ancient city of Bhaktapur. We also showcase art from the first edition of the Kathmandu Art Biennale, share the designs of a pioneering rug-maker who combines modern designs with ancient craftsmanship, and make a final memo rable journey into the hills outside Kathmandu to a serene resort that offers invigorating wellness programs, nourishing meals made from local ingredients, and astonishing views of Mount Everest.
We hope this issue will inspire you to fulfill your own dreams of adventure with a journey to Cloud Kingdom.
8 | TK | cloud kingdom
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
Floorscapes • 16 Devotion and Dedication
Himalayan Hideaway • 24 Like-Minded Artistry
The Macallan Magic • 60 Spiritual Bonds
10 TK | cloud kingdom CONTENTS
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34 24 20 16 12 60
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cloud kingdom | TK 11 140 122 96 54 38 146 136 116 90 44 142 134 104 82 152 138 92 50 38 Celebrating Two Centuries • 44 Cantonese Expertise • 50 Sweet Dreams • 54 Flavors from the Heart • 82 Experiential Destination 90 Remote Rewards • 92 Aligning with Nature • 96 Soul Food • 104 Time Travels • 116 Transformational Journey • 122 Best of the Best • 134 Spiced Up 136 French Zest • 138 Embracing Possibilities • 140 Decanting the Future • 142 Shaken with Success • 146 Herbal Secrets • 152 Beautiful Island CONTENTS
“God Mode,” a 250 cm x 300 cm purple-and-green-hued Jan Kath carpet 《God Mode》,一张250厘米 x 300厘米的紫绿色调地毯
INSPIRED LIVING
12 TK | cloud kingdom
COURTESY OF JAN KATH (2)
织物风采
floorscapes
Thailand-based Jan Kath designs boldly contemporary rugs that are traditionally handcrafted in Nepal.
“TWENTY OR TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, carpets were considered old and musty,” says Jan Kath. People rolled them up, hid them away in the attic or basement, and lived their lives on bare wooden floors, tiles, or concrete. “But let’s be honest,” says the founder of a namesake brand that many would say defines rug-making in the twenty-first century. “As cool as that looked, it wasn’t cozy.”
Kath designs carpets that resemble everything from photorealistic nebulas, inspired by views of the sky experienced while traveling in the Himalayas (“Spacecrafted” collection) to lush Asian rainforest canopies as seen by flying birds (“Jungle” collection). “We’ve dusted off the image of carpets,” he says, “and people are grateful to have these wonderful feelgood textile places back in their living rooms.”
As a child, Kath traveled with his father, Martin Kath, a secondgeneration rug trader in Bochum, Germany, on sourcing trips to places like Iran and Nepal. “Carpet has been my medium from an early age,” he says. “Where other artists create with brushes and pigment, I paint with wool and silk. It feels completely natural to me.”
As a young man, Kath wasn’t interested in continuing the family business, although fate, it seems, had other ideas. After a few freespirited years in India, he landed a quality-control position in a local rug factory on a chance trip to Nepal. Later, still in his twenties, he bought the business and suddenly found himself with four hundred fifty employees to find work for and no budget for a designer. The solution: design the rugs himself.
Jan Kath, the eponymous carpet brand’s founder and designer Jan Kath是同名地毯品牌的创始人及设计师
Jan Kath 被誉为 21 世纪重新定义地毯产业的 重要推手。品牌同名创办人 Jan Kath 说:「二十 几年前,地毯大多给人老旧、过时的印象。」 地毯常被人们束之高阁,留下裸露的瓷砖、水 泥或木质地板。「这些现代风格看上去很酷, 但说真的,感觉有些冰冷。」
BY KATE NICHOLSON
Today, Kath’s home base is Thailand, where he has a workshop, although he often visits other company workshops in Germany, India, Morocco, and Turkey as well as Kathmandu, Nepal, where the brand’s entirely hand-woven rugs are crafted. “Machines do not make mistakes,” he says. “They’re simply incapable of doing so, and, in my eyes, that’s an inadequacy. It’s the barely visible irregularities that bring a carpet to life. The knotting itself has hardly changed, and we use the same old tools. What’s new is that we use nettle in addition to silk and wool, which creates a raw look and reflects the light in a unique way.” Logistically, the brand is decidedly twenty-first century. And that a single Jan Kath rug features patterns with more than one hundred sixty colors is something once unimaginable. Kath creates his designs digitally and sends them to the weavers via the internet from anywhere in the world.
In late 2023, Kath opened the brand’s first gallery and creative center, Rug + Art Space, in Kathmandu. It is simultaneously a place for
为了找回空间的温度,Jan 从大自然汲取灵感,像是在喜 马拉雅山区观星而有感而生的 Spacecrafted 系列,或是取自鸟儿俯瞰亚洲热 带雨林树冠视角的 Jungle 系列。他表示:「我 们拂去了人们过去对地毯的负面印象,现在大 家很庆幸可以在客厅重新找回舒适温馨的感 觉。」
Jan 的父亲 Martin Kath 是德国波琴的地 毯商人家族二代,因此 Jan 自小便经常陪同父 亲前往伊朗、尼泊尔等地采购地毯。他说:「从 小时候开始,地毯就是我创作的媒介。其他艺 术家是用画笔和颜料创作,我则是用羊毛和丝 绸。这对我而言完全是自然而然的。」
其实,Jan 原先对继承家业并不感兴趣, 但命运似乎另有安排。年轻时他曾旅居印度数 年,因缘际会下成为尼泊尔当地一家地毯工厂 的品管人员。不久后,他在 20 多岁时买下了
CLOUD KINGDOM | TK | 13
A weaver demonstrates skills at recently inaugurated Jan Kath Rug + Art Space in Kathmandu. 一名工匠在最近落成、位于加德满都的Jan Kath Rug + Art Space展示技艺。
international cultural exchange and a thank you to the Nepalese people who have supported the brand for decades. The location, just a few minutes’ walk from Boudhanath Stupa, is highly intentional. In days gone by, the magnificent monument was a gathering place for refugees from Tibet.
“To this day,” says Kath, “our carpets are woven by the descendants of Tibetan refugees. They brought their artistry with them to their new homeland and continued their traditions. Despite the many challenges that a nation like Nepal brings, I love the country and its people. We’re absolutely dependent on the local people and their art. At the same time, I feel a responsibility to help keep this knowledge of craftsmanship alive.”
jan-kath.com
Hand-processing natural fibers to be woven into carpets.
天然纤维经手工加工后,再织成地毯。
那家公司,却发现公司在聘请多达 450 名员工的情况下,并没有多余的预算请设 计师,于是他决定自己动手设计地毯。
如今,Jan 将品牌总部设在泰国,并在当地设有工作室,同时他也经常往来 德国、印度、摩洛哥和土耳其等地的分公司,以及尼泊尔的首都加德满都,也 就是品牌手工编织地毯的产地。他说:「机器虽然不会出错,但换个角度想,它 们其实是没有犯错的能力,在我眼中这反而是一种缺陷。正是那些几乎难以察 觉的细微差错,赋予了地毯生命力。我们仍使用与过往相同的编织工具,有所 改变的是除了原先的羊毛和丝绸,材质上也外加了荨麻,这种材质造就了地毯 质朴的外观,并以独特的方式反射光线。」虽然采用了传统地毯制作的工法,但 营运上却是采取最先进的模式。举例来说,任何一张 Jan Kath 的地毯,都有可 能出现由超过 160 种颜色构成的图样,这在过去简直令人难以想像。此外, Jan 在世界的任何一个角落都能利用电脑完成地毯的设计稿,并透过网路传送给远 方的工匠。
2023 年底,Jan 在加德满都建立品牌的首间艺廊兼创意中心 Rug + Art Space。这里既是国际文化交流的场所,也是为了感谢尼泊尔当地人民对 Jan Kath 长期的支持。这间艺廊邻近「满愿塔」(Boudhanath Stupa),这样的安排其 实别具意义,因为这座宏伟的纪念碑曾是西藏难民集会的场所。
Jan 说:「时至今日,我们的地毯依然是由西藏难民后裔编织而成。他们将艺 术带到了新的家园,这项传统工艺因而得以传承。尽管像尼泊尔这样的国家可能 为企业营运带来许多挑战,但我依然热爱这个国家及它的人民。这群人及他们的 文化,对我们而言非常重要。也因此,我也自认有责任为这门手工技艺的保存尽 一份心力。」
INSPIRED LIVING
COURTESY OF JAN KATH (4) 14 TK | cloud kingdom
《
》(变化版本),一张302 厘米 x 391 厘米的Erased Heritage系列地毯 cloud kingdom TK | 15
“Bidjar Paddington” (variation), a 302 cm x 391 cm carpet from Jan Kath’s Erased Heritage collection
Bidjar Paddington
importance of self-awareness.
Abhijeet Ahankar = Abhihankar (2023)
A painting in natural pigments on cotton canvas by Abhijeet Prajapati explores the
使用天然颜料在棉布上作画,借以探讨自我意识的重要性。 16 TK | cloud kingdom
Abhijeet Prajapati
虔诚奉献
devotion and dedication
In the first edition of the Kathmandu Art Biennale, traditional and contemporary artists explore spirituality in ways both old and new.
BY KATE NICHOLSON
QUESTION: What do a wax statue by Nepali sculptor Sunny Shakya, entitled Green Tara, and a zinc-plate etching by Nepal-based artist Dr. Seema Sharma Shah that depicts Buddhas mingling among mortals have in common? Answer: They both explore concepts of spirituality in unique and highly unexpected ways. These two talk-of-the-town pieces, among more than one hundred other compelling artworks, were audience favorites in the inaugural edition of Kathmandu Art Biennale, which wrapped up in April after a three-month run.
The idea behind an expansive exhibition dedicated to Nepali art emerged from a well-attended live painting event involving thirty local artists held by the Museum of Nepali Art (MoNA) in 2021. “Our team is always on the lookout for projects that can help take Nepali art and culture to a new level,” says Jenisha Maharjan, manager at Mo NA . “We firmly believed that the Kathmandu Art Biennale 2024 was, in fact, a requirement rather than just another event.” Helmed by Chief Curator Rajan Sakya, also the founder and director of the Museum of Nepali Art (Mo NA ), the show spanned three interconnected locations in Kathmandu: MoNA, the Kathmandu Art House, and, in the form of an outdoor sculpture garden, the Kathmandu Guest House.
In a place like Nepal, where devotion permeates every aspect of society, it may seem a given that “spirituality” should be chosen as the theme for 2024. But the ways in which many participating artists interpreted the subject might be surprising. “Nepali art has been perceived internationally as mostly about the gods and less about expression,” says Maharjan. “It’s an idea that has also been ingrained in cultural and social practice for a long time. We hope that the exhibits, narratives, and artists’ discussions have helped broaden the horizons of Nepali art and have paved the way for expanding horizons for all.”
Buddha Circuit (2023)
An etching by Dr. Seema Sharma Shah depicts Buddhas congregating among sentient beings. Seema Sharma Shah博士透过蚀刻版画, 描绘诸佛会聚于众生之中。
提问:尼泊尔雕塑家 Sunny Shakya 的雕像《绿度母》(Green Tara),以及旅居尼泊尔的艺术家 Seema Sharma Shah 博士的佛 陀与凡人云集的锌板蚀刻作品,这两件备受瞩目的作品有何共通 之处?回答:两件作品均以独特且意想不到的方式探索何谓「灵 性」。这两件家喻户晓的作品,以及多达百件、引人入胜的其他艺 术品,在首届加德满都双年展中备受观众青睐。这场活动为期三 个月,并于今年四月圆满落幕。
这场大型尼泊尔艺术展览的理念,源自尼泊尔艺术馆 (MoNA) 于 2021 年举办的现场作画活动,当时艺术馆邀请了三十位本地艺 术家参与,并获得热烈回响。MoNA 经理 Jenisha Maharjan 表示: 「我们团队时刻留意可将尼泊尔艺术与文化提升至新境界的计划。 我们相信,加德满都双年展不单是场艺术活动,它的存在对当地 文化发展而言,可说是不可或缺。」此次展览由 MoNA 创办人暨总 监 Rajan Sakya 担任总策展人,主要在三个相互呼应的场地举办: MoNA、加德满都艺术之家(Kathmandu Art House),以及户外 雕塑园区 加德满都宾馆(Kathmandu Guest House)。
ART
COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF NEPALI ART (2) cloud kingdom TK | 17
Many works do indeed focus directly on Buddhist deities and themes. In Yantra Sarvasva, painter Samundra Man Singh Shrestha highlights the importance of tantric practices in the journey toward enlightenment. Also wellrepresented are mediums unique to Nepal, including traditional painting with mineral- or stone-based pigments on canvas. Artists like Lok Chitrakar formulate their own paints from precious and semiprecious stones and animal hides. And Rabi Shrestha’s painting Amoghapasa Lokesvara, depicting five Buddhas and other divine figures surrounding a central Ashta Bhuja yoga pose, is executed in mineral pigments of traditional colors on cotton canvas.
But other artists chose to interpret the exhibit’s theme in more contemporary or personal ways. The ink-on-paper Rato Machindranath by artist Sujan Dangol, for example, is a surrealist depiction of a divine chariot hauling the buildings of Kathmandu instead of gods. And in an exploration of self-awareness, Abhijeet Prajapati’s painting Abhijeet Ahankar = Abhihankar transposes nontraditional motifs – a severed head, alcohol poured toward the neck, and a yoga crow pose – into traditional arrangements. “‘Spirituality,’ in the context of this biennale,” notes Maharjan, “does not necessarily connect to only religious beliefs. In this context, it sums up the devotion and dedication the artists have concerning their works.”
Yantra Sarvasva (2023)
This oil-on-canvas by Samundra Man Singh Shrestha explores the deep connection between tantric practices and the journey toward enlightenment. Samundra Man Singh Shrestha 透过油画媒介,探索密教仪式与 踏上觉醒之路的深度连结。
对尼泊尔这种信仰虔诚的社会来 说,选择以「灵性」作为 2024 年的主 题或许再理所当然不过。但许多参展艺 术家对于这个主题的诠释,却出人意表。 Jenisha 指出:「国际间对尼泊尔艺术的 观感,大多仅限于神、灵这些题材,较 少关注个人的展现。这种想法早已根植 于当地的文化与社会习俗。因此,我们 希望透过这些展品、故事,以及艺术家 的对话,拓展尼泊尔艺术的视野,让所 有人都大开眼界。」
当然,许多作品确实直接以佛 教神祇相关的主题为焦点,像是画家 Samundra Man Singh Shrestha 透过 《Yantra Sarvasva》强调密教仪式在觉醒 之路上的重要意义。此外,展览中也广 泛呈现尼泊尔独有的艺术媒介,像是以 矿物或石头制作的颜料在布上作画。举 例来说,像是 Lok Chitrakar 这类的艺术 家,能自行从珍稀宝石和动物皮毛中提 炼颜料。此外,Rabi Shrestha 以传统矿 物颜料涂抹在棉布上创作《Amoghapasa Lokesvara》,描绘五位佛陀与其他圣人环 绕佛教神祇 Ashta Bhuja。
也有艺术家另辟蹊径,以更当 代或个人化的方式诠释这次的展览主 题。像是 Sujan Dangol 的钢笔水墨画 作《 Rato Machindranath 》,以超现实 风格描绘一台神祇车辇,这台车乘载的 并非神祇,而是象征加德满都的建筑 物。 Abhijeet Prajapati 则在《 Abhijeet Ahankar = Abhihankar 》中将断头、倾 倒酒液和瑜伽乌鸦式等非传统意象巧妙 融入传统构图中,以探索自我意识的议 题。 Jenisha 说:「此次双年展欲探讨的 『灵性』不只涉及宗教信仰,更涵括了 艺术家对自身作品的虔诚与奉献。」
ART
18 TK | cloud kingdom
Rato Machindranath (2023)
This pen-and-ink-on-paper work by Sujan Dangol depicts Kathmandu atop a chariot
Sujan Dangol利用钢笔水墨 描绘车辇上的加德满都。
COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF NEPALI ART (2) cloud kingdom TK | 19
himalayan hideaway
Dusit Thani Himalayan Resort Dhulikhel combines the warmth of Thai hospitality with the rich culture, distinctive cuisine, and spectacular landscapes of Nepal.
BY KATE NICHOLSON
世外桃源 20 TK cloud kingdom
Dusit Thani’s newest resort is nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas.
都喜天丽最新的度假村座 落在喜马拉雅山脚。
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Dusit International’s signature Thai architectural style finds expression in elements of Nepali building traditions.
都喜国际集团标志性的泰 式建筑风格完美结合尼 泊尔传统建筑元素。
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The architecture of nearby Namobuddha influences the multihued brickwork throughout the property.
在邻近的那摩布达寺庙的 建筑风格影响下,酒店也 运用五彩砖瓦结构。
“IT’S NOT UNCOMMON for visitors to Nepal to feel a strong connection or sense of belonging to the country even after a short visit,” says Anirudh Chaudhary, hotel manager of Dusit Thani Himalayan Resort Dhulikhel, Nepal, which opened to guests in July of last year.
Nestled in the Himalayan foothills, the resort offers expansive views of towering peaks, traditional villages, and farmland valleys. One of Buddhism’s most sacred pilgrimage sites, Namobuddha, is just a few kilometers away, complete with an ancient monastery and holy caves.
Dusit’s signature Thai hospitality permeates the resort and its exceptional array of wellness offerings. “Dusit Thani Nepal stands out
度假村最著名的泰式热忱待客之道体现在整 ←
尼泊尔的都喜天丽度假酒店于去年七月开业,酒 店经理 Anirudh Chaudhary 表示:「即使只是短暂 停留,但来到尼泊尔的旅客都会对这个国家产生 强烈的连结或是归属感。」
度假村座落在喜马拉雅山脚,往外看可饱览 高耸的山峰、传统的村庄及农田山谷。佛教最神 圣的其中一个朝圣地那摩布达(Namobuddha) 就在几公里之外,这里有许多古老的寺庙及神圣 的洞穴。
DESIGN
COURTESY OF DUSIT THANI HIMALAYAN RESORT DHULIKHEL, NEPAL (3) cloud kingdom TK | 21
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The bar features local woodworking craftsmanship. 酒吧设计融合当地的木造工艺。
uniquely in its fusion of Thai-inspired design with local Nepalese influences,” says Chaudhary.
Both of these are beautifully evident in Thailand-based Swa and Associate Co. Ltd.’s property design, which centers on traditional Nepalese architectural features like recessed corners, cascading detailing, and intricately carved wooden doors, window frames, and bed headboards. The designers also took inspiration from the architecture of Namobuddha by including multihued brickwork and liberal use of timber and brass. Guests entering the earth-toned lobby are greeted by a bespoke carving, a stylized Nepali landscape on the wall behind the reception desk. And the timber wall panels in the Devarana Wellness foyer are carved in intricate geometric patterns.
The golden lotus, a distinctly Nepali symbol, features throughout the property, in everything from floor tiles to chandeliers. All of the artwork, including carved and stenciled stone, wood wall adornments, and brass sculptures on plinths and in alcoves, was commissioned from local artisans. “Their skill and craftsmanship were the main criteria we took into consideration in the selection process,” says Chaudhary. “Choosing artists from Nepali villages helped to ensure authenticity, and it imbues the resort with local culture and atmosphere.” The furniture, too, was custom-designed and locally made.
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Thaan restaurant reflects, in both design and cuisine, Buddhist philosophy’s four types of lotuses. Thaan餐厅的设计与菜肴都体 现佛教哲学中的莲花四德。
座酒店,还有一系列不容错过的优越康体护理服务。 Anirudh 表示:「酒店的独特之处,就在于将泰国 风格的设计与尼泊尔当地的风土民情融为一体。」
泰国的 Swa and Associate Co. Ltd. 设计公司 致力于体现尼泊尔的传统建筑特色,像是壁龛、层 叠细节、精雕细琢的木门、窗框及床头板,并将这 些细节融合在 Dusit Thani 酒店的外型设计中。设 计师也从那摩布达寺庙汲取灵感,使用多色调的砖 砌结构,并大量使用木材及黄铜。宾客步入大地 色调的大厅,迎面而来的是接待台后方墙面的订 制雕刻,图样为风格化的尼泊尔景致。Devarana Wellness 门厅的木质墙板上则雕刻着繁复的几何图 案。从地砖到吊灯,整座酒店都运用了尼泊尔特有 的金莲花图案。所有的艺术品,包括雕刻和模板石 材、木质墙面装饰及基座和壁龛中的黄铜雕塑,都 是委托当地工匠制作。Anirudh 表示:「他们的技 能与工艺是我们在挑选合作对象时首要考虑的标 准。选择与来自尼泊尔村庄的艺术家合作,有助于 保留最原始的文化特色,使度假村充满当地文化和 氛围。」酒店内的家具更是采用客制化设计,于当 地制作而成。
DESIGN
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The design of the resort takes full advantage of its breathtaking natural setting.
度假村的设计充分运用令人 叹为观止的自然环境。
At the resort’s all-day-dining Thaan restaurant, both the design team and Executive Chef Arnab Mondal drew inspiration from the four types of lotuses prominent in Buddhist philosophy. Fruit and vegetables are sourced largely from local farms, and the menu features locally centered fare like a cheese platter of four flavored varieties – Lapsi, Rosemary & Garlic, Amla, and Timmur – made by Himalayan French Cheese, a Dhulikhel producer. Other standouts include the Nepalese Himalayan thali with gundruk, a fermented leafy green vegetable sourced from nearby villages, as well as a selection of expertly curated Thai specialties. Bela lounge provides poolside relaxation, perfectly crafted cocktails, seasonal small plates, and evening music.
Guests are encouraged to engage with the Nepali way of life by participating in a range of activities, from pottery classes and handcrafting meditation beads, known as japa, to locally led nature walks and historical and cultural tours. “We collaborate with local guides and craftspeople to enrich our guests’ experiences,” notes Chaudhary. Given its untouched location, the resort has taken special care to ensure that sustainability is embedded in daily operations. Initiatives include working with the local community on neighborhood clean-ups to reduce plastic waste, elimination of single-use plastics from the property, and the nurture of thriving organic gardens.
度假村中的 Thaan 餐厅提供全天候餐饮, 设计团队和行政主厨 Arnab Mondal 从佛教哲 学的莲花四德当中汲取灵感。这里的水果和蔬 菜大多来自当地农场,菜单上的菜肴也以当地 特色为主,如四种口味独特的奶酪组合成的拼 盘:Lapsi 奶酪、迷迭香大蒜奶酪、Amla 奶酪及 Timmur 奶酪。这四种奶酪都是由位于杜立克尔 (Dhulikhel)的 Himalayan French Cheese 公司 制作。其他特色料理包括尼泊尔喜马拉雅套餐, 佐以 Gundruk(一种来自附近村庄的发酵绿叶蔬 菜),以及精选的泰国特色菜肴。Bela 酒吧能让 宾客在池畔边享受放松,并提供精心调制的鸡尾 酒、时令小菜及晚间音乐体验。
酒店鼓励宾客参与一系列活动,从陶艺课 程、手工制作冥想珠,以及由当地人带领的自然 探索旅程及历史文化之旅,让宾客体验尼泊尔人 的生活方式。酒店也特别致力于将可持续发展融 入日常营运中。酒店采取的措施包括与当地社群 合作,进行邻里清洁活动来减少塑料垃圾,同时 也在度假村内杜绝一次性塑料用品,以及培育草 木蓊郁的有机花园。
COURTESY OF DUSIT THANI HIMALAYAN RESORT DHULIKHEL, NEPAL (3) cloud kingdom | TK | 23
PRESENTED BY SJM RESORTS, S.A.
Spiedino di astice blu bretone
意式布列塔尼蓝龙虾配蘑菇及水牛奶酪 24 TK CLOUD KINGDOM
Brittany Blue Lobster, Seasonal Mushrooms and Buffalo Mozzarella
Haute cuisine meets haute couture at the newest iteration of Don Alfonso 1890.
INTERVIEWED BY MARK HAMMONS & JOEY CHEANG
• EDITED BY MAMIE CHEN
•
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
ARTISTRY 心艺相投 风范流传 CLOUD KINGDOM TK | 25
LIKE-MINDED
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Alfonso Iaccarino
IT IS ALFONSO IACCARINO’S fiftyfourth visit to Macau – and his first visit to his newest Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant, in the recently inaugurated Palazzo Versace Macau. Part of Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, it is the first Versace hotel in Asia. The legendary chef happily immerses himself in a world where Italian gastronomy merges seamlessly with the iconic luxury of Italian fashion house Versace. Here, every detail speaks of tradition, artistry, and an unwavering commitment to creative excellence.
“We take traditional Italian dishes and authentic flavors and present them in a modern way that is fitting in this Versace setting, where all the details are carefully studied,” says Iaccarino, whose original Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant in Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi along Italy’s Amalfi Coast, as well as those in Lavello, Italy, and Toronto, Canada, hold one Michelin star each. “It is an evolution from the very old to the new, because you must have a deep tradition to draw from in order to successfully make something modern.”
Iaccarino reflects on the harmonious blend of tradition and innovation embodied in Head Chef Federico Pucci’s take on the classic Piedmontese dish of vitello tonnato, or sliced veal with tuna sauce. Specially selected tuna and anchovies, as well as capers from Le Peracciole, Iaccarino’s organic farm in Punta Campanella, provide the sauce with a gratifyingly complex depth of flavor. The dish is further elevated with a round of Mediterranean tuna tartare and a generous serving of Kristal caviar. “The past and the future come together in this dish,” says Iaccarino.
He emphasizes that the spirit of every dish must ultimately be centered around the quality of the ingredients. While helming the kitchen of the original Don Alfonso 1890 on the Amalfi
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是日海鲜配地中海香草、蛏子及鱼子酱 cloud kingdom | TK | 27
Pescato del giorno con erbe Meditarranee Catch of the day with Mediterranean Herbs, Razor Clams and Caviar
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Paccheri
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Paccheri, Cacciucco Reduction and Seasonal Seafood
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← Federico Pucci
→ Pappardelle
Handmade Pappardelle
Pasta, Pigeon Ragout, Parmigiano Foam and Seasonal Mushrooms
手工制意大利宽面 伴炖乳鸽肉配帕马 森芝士泡沫及蘑菇
Coast, Iaccarino was a pioneer in the farmto-table movement, using herbs, fruits, and vegetables harvested from Le Peracciole. In Macau, guests can savor the flavors of Southern Italy with ingredients sourced directly from Don Alfonso’s farm and the surrounding areas, imported treasures that include capers, tomatoes, olive oil, honey, pasta, tuna, and anchovies, all carefully chosen to ensure the highest quality and authenticity in every dish.
The restaurant’s steadfast focus on using the freshest and most flavorful ingredients available also means that Pucci and his team have the liberty to explore locally prized
这是 Alfonso Iaccarino 第 54
次来到澳门,也是他第一次来到位于澳门上 葡京综合度假村内,全亚洲首家的澳门范思哲豪华酒店大楼內的当奥丰素 1890。在这个意大利美馔与意大利时尚品牌范思哲的标志性奢华完美融合 的空间中,这位传奇名厨欣喜地沉醉其中。在这里,每个设计细节尽美地 显示传统精髓、艺术及追求超卓创意的坚定承诺。
Alfonso 分享:「我们把拥有悠久传统的意大利菜肴及风味底蕴,以范 思哲的华美格调,优雅、现代地呈现,所有细节都一丝不苟。」他的 Don Alfonso 1890 餐厅位于阿玛菲海岸的两湾圣亚加大堂(Sant ‘Agata sui Due Golfi),以及位于意大利拉维洛(Lavello)和加拿大多伦多,这几家 餐厅均拥有一颗米其林星星。「这是一种从古老到创新的演变,因为要做 出成功的现代料理,必须深植于长久的传统。」
Alfonso 认为总厨 Federico Pucci 创作的皮埃蒙特经典菜肴 Vitello
Tonnato(意大利牛仔肉、地中海吞拿鱼他他、晶钻鱼子酱、意大利酸豆) 展现了传统与创新的交融之美 – – 特选的吞拿鱼及鯷鱼,以及来自 Alfonso
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produce like Yunnan mushrooms or regional seafood like yellow croaker and spotted red grouper.
Many of Pucci’s original creations that draw inspiration from age-old classics are updated with modern technology or novel combinations of ingredients. To achieve a fullbodied, creamy consistency in his risotto with abalone and sea urchin, for example, he runs frozen abalone stock through a Pacojet and adds to the dish the micro-puréed abalone, along with fresh sea urchin paste and olive oil – replacing the traditional butter – during the mantecatura process.
位于蓬塔坎帕内拉自家农场 Le Peracciole 的新鲜酸豆,为酱汁增添了多 层细致风味,令人回味。搭配吞拿鱼他他及大量的晶钻鱼子酱,让这道 菜的体验升华。Alfonso 表示:「在这道菜当中,可以品尝到过去和未来 相融一体。」
他强调,烹调每道菜的精神最终都必须以优质食材品质为中心。在 掌管阿玛菲海岸最原始的 Don Alfonso 1890 餐厅厨房时,Alfonso 就是贯 彻「从农场到餐桌」的先驱,他所使用的香草、水果与蔬菜都来自自家农 场 Le Peracciole。在澳门,宾客可以品尝到新鲜的意大利南部风味,各式 食材皆直接从 Don Alfonso 农场和周边地区采购,包括酸豆、番茄、橄榄 油、蜂蜜、意大利面、吞拿鱼及鯷鱼等进口珍品。所有食材都经过精挑细选, 以确保每道菜都能保有最佳的品质,以及正宗的风味。
正因餐厅始终坚持使用最新鲜、美味的食材,这代表总厨 Federico 和他的团队也可以自由地探索珍贵的本地食材,如云南菌菇、黄花鱼和 东星斑等珍品海鲜。
PRESENTED BY SJM RESORTS, S.A. cloud kingdom TK | 31
Vitello Tonnato Piemontese Veal, Mediterranean Tuna Tartare, Kristal Caviar with Capers from Punta Campanella 意大利牛仔肉、地中海吞拿鱼他 他、晶钻鱼子酱及意大利酸豆
The menu’s paccheri de Gragnano pasta dish represents a special marriage of culinary traditions from Iaccarino and Pucci’s respective home regions of Campania and Tuscany. The sturdy, large pasta tubes that Iaccarino rediscovered decades ago are well-suited to absorb Pucci’s reduction of cacciucco alla livornese, a flavorful stew containing various types of fish, clams, octopus, squid, prawns, and lobster.
Federico 许多原创作品都是从古老的经典食谱中汲取灵感,透 过现代烹饪技术和新颖的材料来重组诠释。以他的鲍鱼海胆意大利饭 来举例,为了使鲍鱼和海胆烩饭能达到丝绸奶油般丰郁,他用冰磨机 (Pacojet)打造鲍鱼汁汤,在快速搅拌(mantecatura)的过程中,加 入蓉泥状的鲍鱼、新鲜海胆酱及橄榄油(以取代传统黄油),充满创意。
菜单上的 Paccheri(意式海鲜烩水管面)是 Alfonso 和 Federico 从各自家乡坎帕尼亚和托斯卡尼地区的烹饪传统中取材,再美妙地结 合起来。这种大型、坚挺的水管面由 Alfonso 在几十年前凭慧眼再掀风 潮,现搭配 Federico 特制的 cacciucco alla livornese 酱汁(集合各种
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The dishes are beautifully plated on Rosenthal x Versace tableware showcasing the richly Asia Dream motif, with intricate gold patterns and a richly hued red border that convey sophisticated elegance.
“I had occasion to meet Gianni Versace forty years ago,” says Iaccarino. “It was a special party, and I made dinner for some very important people. Now I’m here at Palazzo Versace Macau, a living memento of him.”
鲜鱼、蛤蜊、章鱼、鱿鱼、大虾和龙虾炖制而成),成品完美融合 了来自海洋的浓郁滋味。
每道菜皆被精美地摆放在 Rosenthal x Versace 的「梦回东方」 系列餐具上,细致的金色图案、明亮优雅的红色边缘,是意式之美 的绚丽呈现。
Alfonso 说:「四十年前,我有幸见过 Gianni Versace。那次聚 会很难忘,我为一些非常重要的大人物主理晚餐,而现在我正身处 这里 —— 澳门范思哲豪华酒店大楼 Palazzo Versace,一个充分糅合 他个人风采、才华传奇的时尚空间。」
PRESENTED BY SJM RESORTS, S.A.
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Managing Director –North Asia of Edrington, Jaime Martin Chocano 爱丁顿北亚地区执行总监
Jaime Martin Chocano
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传奇醇香 时光旅程
the macallan magic
Managing Director - North Asia of Edrington, Jaime Martin Chocano, talks with TK about celebrating The Macallan’s 200 years of whisky-making mastery.
INTERVIEWED BY
IN 1824, barley farmer and school teacher Alexander Reid created the first-ever batch of The Macallan whisky in a part of northeast Scotland known as Speyside. A tradition in the region for centuries, whisky-making was carried out by farmers who used their surplus barley during the quieter, chillier winter months to create a warming drink. Reid’s successful distillation started the journey of what has become one of the world’s most prestigious spirits.
MARK HAMMONS
• EDITED BY
LUCY MORGAN
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY
DAVID HARTUNG
For two centuries, The Macallan has been delighting single malt connoisseurs, and to celebrate this landmark, acclaimed visual artist Alex Trochut was commissioned to design an anniversary logo. Inspired by the continuity between the brand’s origins and its future, this new symbol’s curves pay homage to both the River Spey as it meanders through The Macallan Estate and the sinuous lines of the modern distillery’s roof.
“Whisky is often seen as an ‘old man’s drink,’” says Jaime Martin Chocano. “But The Macallan’s emphasis on creativity and craftsmanship and the sheer quality of the spirit – that integrity appeals to younger people too. They can sense the heritage and expertise. We plan to be making The Macallan for another two hundred years.”
The craftsmanship Martin refers to is founded on The Macallan’s “Six Pillars,” guiding principles that inform the creation of this exceptional whisky. Among them are distillation with “curiously small stills” that ensure maximum contact of the liquid with copper and the use of custom-made oak casks seasoned with sherry wine. “Sherry was popular in the UK in the early twentieth century,” he says, “but we were one of the pioneers – we were putting our whisky into sherry casks in the late 1800s.”
The process of using sherry casks to age whisky is a lengthy one. First, oak trees of a certain size and age are selected for fashioning appropriate barrels. The new barrels are then filled with sherry, a fortified wine with its roots in Jerez de la Fontera in southwest Spain.
1824 年,在苏格兰东北部的斯佩塞地区, 麦农兼教师 Alexander Reid 创造了第一 批 The Macallan 威士忌。这个地区素来 传承着制酒的传统:世世代代的农夫总 会在寒冬农闲时节,利用剩余的大麦制 作美酒,而 Alexander 成功的蒸馏过程, 开启了 The Macallan 成为世界顶级烈酒 的非凡征途。
两世纪以来,The Macallan 一直 是单一麦芽威士忌爱好者的心头好。 为了庆祝二百周年这个里程碑,The Macallan 委托备受赞誉的视觉艺术家 Alex Trochut 设计周年纪念标识。新标 志以「过去与未来的连结」为灵感,以 流线型曲线向贯穿 The Macallan 庄园的 斯佩河致敬,同时也呼应现代蒸馏厂屋 顶的优雅线条。
爱丁顿北亚地区执行总监 Jaime Martin Chocano 表示:「威士忌往往被 视为『上一代的饮品』,但 The Macallan 对创意与工艺的重视,再加上酒液本身 出众的品质,获得了年轻一代的青睐。 我们的威士忌制酒历史已有两百年,他 们能感受到我们的传承和专业。我们计 划再为 The Macallan 谱写下一个两百年 的篇章。」
Jaime 所说的工艺,重视「六大精 神支柱」,也就是制作这款顶级威士忌臻 品所遵循的指导原则,包括使用「精致 小巧的蒸馏器」以确保液体与铜材最大 程度接触,以及采用经雪莉酒润桶的定 制橡木桶。
PRESENTED BY THE MACALLAN
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The anniversary logo designed by visual artist Alex Trochut 由视觉艺术家Alex Trochut设计的周年纪念标志
This rich, sweet wine stays in the casks for up to three years, its flavor profile gaining from the oak a savory complexity while at the same time imbuing the wood with its own sweetness. Once the sherry wine has been bottled, the now-fragrant casks are used in aging The Macallan’s whiskies. Contact with the oak provides over 80 percent of the whiskies’ distinctive flavors and aromas. Beautiful hues, ranging from pale amber to deep walnut, are provided by the aromatic wood without the addition of any artificial color.
“Most of our whisky today is matured in either European or American oak casks that have been seasoned in sherry,” says Martin. “We work closely with tens or even hundreds of local forest owners. This process takes time, because we only use trees that are more than 80 or 90 years old to make our casks. We are really thinking forward. We won’t be cutting down the trees that are just acorns today for close to a century. So when we say two hundred years more, we really mean it.”
For connoisseurs who would like to explore the history and philosophy of the brand, The Macallan House, a retail store designed to deliver an “immersive brand experience,” was opened in 2024 in Hong Kong Central. “We needed to find a way to transport ourselves to our top cities and most discerning clientele,” says Martin. “We want to fully connect our clients with our distillery. People can come in, engage with our brand ambassadors, and learn more about us. Hong Kong is the first city in Asia we ever exported to – there’s such a connection.
“There’s a true magic about whisky,” says Martin. “It’s just barley, water, and yeast – and the wood it’s aged in – yet it’s something very special. At The Macallan, we see ourselves as simply the custodians of this brand that’s 200 years young.”
Jaime 说:「20 世纪初期,雪莉酒 在英国非常风行,我们在 19 世纪末、20 世纪初就开始将威士忌陈年在雪莉桶中, 我们是这个做法的其中一个先驱。」
使用雪莉桶陈年威士忌是一个漫长 的过程,第一步是要挑选一定年龄和尺 寸的橡木,才能打造出合适的木桶。新 制的木桶要先装填源自西班牙西南部 赫雷斯德拉弗隆特拉地区的加烈雪莉 酒。这种醇厚甘甜的酒浸泡在木桶最多 三年后,酒体不仅吸收了木桶独特的香 气,木材也赋予酒体一种甜味。当雪莉 酒入瓶后,这些饱含馨香的木桶就被用 来陈年 The Macallan 威士忌,所以 The Macallan 的酒液約八成的独特风味和香 气均来自与橡木的接触,而威士忌所拥 有的淡琥珀色至深核桃色的丰富色泽, 全然来自于芳香的橡木,并无添加任何 人工色素。
Jaime 说:「现今,我们大部分的威 士忌都是在使用欧洲橡木或美洲橡木制作 的雪莉桶中陈年。我们与多达数百座在地 林场密切合作。这个过程非常耗时,因为 我们只使用 80 至 90 年以上的老树打造 木桶。我们真的在为未来打算,因为今天 的橡树种子,需要长达近一个世纪的时间 才能砍伐利用。因此,当我们说要迈向下 个两百年,可不是随口说说的。」
美酒鉴赏家若想探索 The Macallan 的历史和理念,可以前往专为「身临其 境的品牌体验」打造的品牌概念店。举 例来说,品牌在香港的品酩空间 The Macallan House 于 2024 年在中环开幕。
Jaime 说:「我们需要找到一种方式,将 自己带到主要城市,靠近最挑剔的顾客 群。我们希望让客户与我们蒸馏厂建立 完整的连结。来到这里,顾客可以和 我们的品牌大使交流,更深入了解 The Macallan。香港是我们出口商品的第一 座亚洲城市,也造就了我们与香港独特 的联系。」
Jaime 说:「威士忌本身就充满魔力, 原料只有大麦、水和酵母,这些元素经 过橡木桶陈年后,却孕育出如此非凡的 威士忌佳作。在 The Macallan,没有人 会试图置自身于威士忌之上,这点相当 重要。对我们而言,自己只不过是这个 两百年品牌暂时的管理人罢了。」
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The Macallan Double Cask
18 Years Old single malt whisky
双雪莉桶 18年单一麦芽威士忌 CLOUD KINGDOM TK | 37
The Macallan
时光焠鍊 馥郁飨宴
celebrating two centuries
The Macallan is “200 Years Young,” and the renowned distiller marks the occasion by launching “Savour into Infinity” with two of Macau’s Michelin-star restaurants.
WHILE PAIRING FOOD with wine is an ageold tradition, doing the same with a spirit of higher alcohol content can be more challenging.
BY
ANDREW DEMBINA
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY
The richly complex balance of sweetness and savory spice found in The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old single malt whisky, however, gives chefs an exceptionally wide range of notes to play with. Its unparalleled subtleties come from having been matured for eighteen years in both American and European sherry-seasoned oak casks – and from The Macallan’s two centuries of whisky-making mastery.
DAVID HARTUNG
In recognition of this landmark anniversary in 2024, The Macallan has commissioned a new logo design from artist Alex Trochut to pay tribute to a tradition of craftsmanship that is “200 Years Young.”
And The Macallan’s celebration continues with its “Savour into Infinity” campaign in Macau. During May and June, Edrington, owners of The Macallan, will launch two pairings of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old with original dishes from the culinary masters of two of the city’s most lauded Michelin-star restaurants, Executive Chef Riccardo La Perna of 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA at Galaxy Macau and Chef de Cuisine Cedric Satabin of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus.
Opening the pairing event was Chef La
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PRESENTED BY THE MACALLAN Alps Lamb 阿尔卑斯山羊肉 cloud kingdom | TK | 39
“I add the whisky at the last moment. I don’t want to evaporate the alcohol, or it will lose its flavor. 为了不让酒精挥发过 多,我在烹调最后一刻 才加入威士忌,以保留 酒体原有的风味。”
Riccardo La Perna
Executive Chef Riccardo La Perna of 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA at Galaxy Macau
8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA餐厅行政总厨 Riccardo La Perna
Perna, who took the helm in Macau after successfully overseeing Michelin-starred 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, Shanghai. His authentic interpretations of dishes from across the regions of Italy emphasize seafood, reflecting the flavors of Sicily where he grew up. A large majority of the restaurant’s ingredients are imported from Italy, and the rest are sourced from Japan and Australia.
For “Savour into Infinity,” Chef La Perna decided to create a variation of a dish he calls Alps Lamb by incorporating The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old. As with everything on his menu, this dish changes its accompanying vegetables, seasonings, and garnishes according to the time of year and the best ingredients available. Its core, however, is always charred center-cut Italian Alpine lamb chops, tenderloin, and belly.
It is served with peperonata, a traditional pan-Italian stew of bell peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and onions, and lamb intingolo, a highly seasoned sauce enhanced with The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old. “I
在 The Macallan 二百周年的特别时刻,品牌与 澳门两家米其林星级餐厅合作推出「时光焠鍊 馥 郁飨宴」,以风味之旅庆祝传承两世纪的制酒工 艺。
以葡萄酒作为餐酒搭配是个常见的传统,然 而,以酒精浓度较高的烈酒佐餐却充满挑战性与 学问。
不过,The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年单一麦 芽威士忌拥有复杂而平衡的风味,以其圆润甘甜、 香辣并陈的特质,赋予了厨师在香气与口感呈现 上尽情挥洒的空间。The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年单一麦芽威士忌采用西班牙赫雷兹雪莉酒润养 的欧洲和美国橡木桶,以「非过桶」的方式陈年 18 年之久,并采用 The Macallan 传承两世纪的 制酒工艺与超凡技艺,造就了独特细腻的口感。
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Chef de Cuisine Cedric Satabin of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 摩珀斯杜卡斯餐厅总厨 Cedric Satabin
在 2024 年,The Macallan 踏入两百周年 里程碑,品牌特别邀请艺术家 Alex Trochut 操 刀设计品牌标志,向历久弥新的两百年制酒工 艺致敬,传承辉煌的历史,憧憬无限未来 。
为了延续 The Macallan 无尽的风味之旅, 品牌隆重推出了「时光焠鍊 馥郁飨宴」活动, 并邀请了澳门两位备受赞誉的米其林星级餐厅 主厨,在五至六月期间推出与 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌完美配对的卓越佳肴, 分别由澳门银河 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA 餐厅行政总厨 Riccardo La Perna,以及摩珀斯 杜卡斯餐厅总厨 Cedric Satabin 精心创作。 这个五月,澳门银河 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA 行政总厨 Riccardo 先为此星级活 动拉开序幕。在来到澳门之前,Riccardo 曾 主理上海米其林星级餐厅 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA,其令人回味无穷、突显海洋鲜味 的意式料理创作,皆反映了他在意大利南部西 西里岛长大的经历。餐厅大部分的食材均直接 从意大利进口,其余则来自日本和澳洲等地。 为了这次「时光焠鍊 馥郁飨宴」活动, Riccardo 决定将一道名为「阿尔卑斯山羊肉」 的菜式与 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌 相结合。一如他烹饪的经典风格,配菜、香料 和装饰皆会随着季节更迭而变化。然而,这道 菜的惊喜核心,仍是经碳烤的意大利阿尔卑斯 山羊架、羊柳和羊腩三个部位。
这道菜搭配由甜椒、番茄、大葱与蒜 头炖成的传统意式 peperonata,以及以 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌特调的风味羊 肉汁。Riccardo 说:「为了不让酒精挥发过多, 我在烹调最后一刻才加入威士忌,以保留酒体 原有的风味。」此外,他也使用了鹰嘴豆泥和 香炸茄子作为菜肴的搭配。
Riccardo 补充,烟熏羊肉的浓烈味道和 威士忌的浑劲风味完美契合,鹰嘴豆泥与香炸 茄子中和了羊肉的丰腴,柔滑的口感也和顺 口浓郁的酒体互相呼应。灵感无限的 Riccardo 已开始构思新创意:「如果是秋季,我认为鹿 肉也会是这款威士忌的绝妙拍档,我更想过把 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌融入甜品 之中 – – 或许可做成提拉米苏,不过就目前这 个时节而言,我觉得跟羊肉的配搭最为恰当。」 这场「时光焠鍊 馥郁飨宴」,由米其林二 星杜卡斯餐厅总厨 Cedric 接棒。在这间设计 独特、气氛恬静的当代风格餐厅里,Cedric 每
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巴黎自家工厂制巧克力、白栗米、可可冰沙
CHOCOLATE, from Alain Ducasse’s Manufacture in Paris, Torrified White Corn and Cocoa-Nib Granité
“The mix of these four cocoa beans is a perfect match with the balance of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old.
这四种可可豆的组合与The Macallan双雪莉桶 18年单一麦芽威士忌交织出的平衡口感是天作之合。”
Cedric Satabin
add the whisky at the last moment,” says La Perna. “I don’t want to evaporate the alcohol, or it will lose its flavor.” Hummus and fried eggplant accompany the dish.
The robust flavor of the smoky lamb, says the chef, matches the intensity of the whisky, and the fattiness of the lamb and the hummus and fried eggplant harmonize with its smoothness and strength. Inspired, La Perna’s creative impulses are already at work: “If it was autumn,” he says, “I think venison would pair equally well with this whisky. And I’ve also thought of using The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old in a dessert – maybe a tiramisu – but for this time of year, I think the lamb goes best.”
Chef Satabin continues “Savour into Infinity” at two-Michelin-star Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, an airy, contemporary restaurant within the spectacularly designed hotel.
Celebrated Ducasse signatures like Rum Baba and Mediterranean Gamberoni Delicate Gelée, Gold Caviar are regular favorites, but the menu changes, says Satabin, “according to the seasons.” Menu discussions are held weekly with the group’s executive chef in Paris, and Alain Ducasse himself joins in monthly.
For “Savour into Infinity,” Chef Satabin has devised a luscious creation called CHOCOLATE, from Alain Ducasse’s Manufacture in Paris, Torrified White Corn and Cocoa-Nib Granité. Excited by the infinite possibilities of pairing dishes with The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old, he finally decided that “a dessert was a good way to go.”
The main chocolate used throughout the dish’s several components is Ducasse-branded The Blend 75% Dark Chocolate from Le Chocolate Alain Ducasse, the famed chef’s workshop in Paris. This signature product combines four cru-level cocoa beans from Peru, Ecuador, Madagascar, and São Tomé.
“The mix of these four cocoa beans is a perfect match with the balance of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old,” says Satabin. The dessert includes crispy chocolate sourdough French toast made with a dash of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old. It is topped with fennel-seed-infused fromage-blanc cream, smoked-corn ice cream with popped corn, corn cream, and sourdough cocoa chips.
The dish also features the raw cocoa fruit that surrounds the beans. “This has a lot of acidity,” says the chef, “and we also use roasted oats. Both of these ingredients pair beautifully with The Macallan.” At the base of the dessert is smoked cream with Ducasse-branded Madagascar Trinitario 45% Milk Chocolate Grand Cru.
To complete the masterpiece at tableside, cocoa-bean granité containing very little dairy is made with a flourish using dry ice, and pure chocolate sauce is lavishly poured on top.
周都会与巴黎总部的行政主厨讨论菜 单,而创办人杜卡斯先生本人每个月 也都会和澳门分店的人员交流。
店内招牌如冧酒蛋糕及地中海红 虾、精致鱼冻、晶钻鱼子酱,一直深 受食客喜爱。不过,菜单会随季节变 化而调整。
为了本次活动,他准备了一道色 香味俱全的巧克力甜点,名为「巴黎 自家工厂制巧克力、白栗米、可可冰 沙」。Cedric 相当期待这道甜点和 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌可以擦 出什么火花,而最终他也评价「甜点 是这款威士忌的最佳拍档」。
这道甜品的主体是杜卡斯旗下品 牌的 75% 黑巧克力,源自位于巴黎的 杜卡斯专属巧克力工厂。这款招牌产 品融合了分别产自秘鲁、厄瓜多尔、 马达加斯加和圣多美的四种顶级可可 豆。
Cedric 形容:「这四种可可豆的组 合与 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年单一 麦芽威士忌交织出的平衡口感是天作 之合。」他以酸种面包制作酥脆的巧克 力法式吐司,并以 The Macallan 18 年 威士忌增加层次感;上面铺满风味独 特的茴香籽白奶油、烟熏玉米冰淇淋 佐爆米花、玉米奶油、酸种可可脆饼。
此外,这道甜品还巧妙运用了可 可果实本身的风味。Cedric 解释道:「可 可果实带有强烈的酸味,并搭配烘烤 燕麦,这两种食材和威士忌的风味完 美衔接。」甜点底部是杜卡斯自有品牌 马达加斯加千里达可可 45% 牛奶巧克 力制成的烟熏奶油。上桌前,厨师会 在桌边使用干冰制作出几乎不含乳制 品的可可冰沙,并淋上「纯巧克力酱」, 为这道味蕾大作增添画龙点睛之笔。
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Roasted Crystal Shi-Qi
Baby Pigeon
润烧石岐玻璃乳鸽
追求卓「粤」 重新出发
cantonese expertise
The brand-new executive Chinese chef of Michelin-starred Zi Yat Heen at Four Seasons Hotel Macao brings a wealth of experience and his own innovative ideas.
BY JOYCE KWOK • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DADO KIT
IN MARCH, when the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2024 held its awards ceremony, Zi Yat Heen’s Michelin star was accepted by ne wly appointed Executive Chinese Chef Anthony Ho, who had been on the job for just one week.
The Hong Kong native returns to his home area after long successful stints at Michelin-starred restaurants in Singapore and Shanghai. Coming from a family of restaurateurs, Ho first studied under his father and later apprenticed under the tutelage of a strict mentor. “The restaurant I worked for had more than enough resources for R&D,” he recalls. “I was able to practice, test, and evaluate dishes with fourteen or fifteen of my fellow apprentices, often using expensive ingredients like leopard coral grouper. We matured extremely fast as a team.”
Although recent years have seen a series of culinary trends come and go, Chef Ho believes that the foundational tenet of Cantonese cuisine remains unchanged, namely, that ingredients are key to the success of any dish: “I would never settle for any ingredient of less than highest quality.”
In evidence, he presents his Roasted Crystal Shi-Qi Baby Pigeon. Birds of around three hundred grams and between twenty-five and twenty-eight days old are the best, Chef
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Ho insists. “If I have the chance to be even more exacting in my order, I always choose male pigeons because they are less gamey.”
One taste makes it obvious that Ho’s pigeon skin is much crisper than usual. He has replaced traditional marinating and air drying techniques with his own method in which the
「那时候经济蓬勃发展,酒楼有充足的研发资源,我能与十四、五位师兄 Anthony Ho 何鑫涛
今年三月,《香港澳门米其林指南》公布了本年度的获奖餐厅。代表澳门 四季酒店一星中菜厅「紫逸轩」到台上领奖的中餐行政总厨何鑫涛回想 起当日情景,笑说:「那时我才刚上任一个星期!」 对香港出生的何师傅而言 , 他总算能从新加坡、上海的米其林餐厅 调回到熟悉的港澳地区工作。何师傅出自餐饮世家,从小在父亲的循循 教导,以及初入行恩师的严格磨练下,善于判别海鲜、家禽类食材的优劣。
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Clockwise from top: Steamed Pork Dumpling with Sea Urchin, Steamed Lobster Dumpling, Steamed Garoupa Vegetable Sprout Dumpling, Steamed Assorted Fungus Dumplings with French Asparagus, Steamed Pork Dumplings with Shrimp Topping with Fresh Abalone 海胆黑豚肉饺, 翡翠龙虾饺, 菜苗东星斑饺, 法国芦笋野菌饺, 鲜鲍鱼蟹肉金腿烧卖皇
meat is soaked in frozen spices for around six hours before being dusted with sugar, flour, and cornstarch. Once dry, it undergoes the process twice more before being brined. Although the preparation takes two to three times as long, it’s the secret to getting the “crystal-like” crispiness that has made the dish such a hit.
弟们,同时用贵价食材如东星斑,作练习、试菜品评,团队上下都能 快速学习成长。 」
纵然全球提倡餐饮创新,但何师傅深信,粤菜根基亘古不变,原 材料一直是粤菜的决胜关键。「凡是质量不合格的,我都不会将就买 单。」他端出其中一道招牌作「润烧石岐玻璃乳鸽」时如此正色道。他 又以「烧」乳鸽举例,指出三百克重、二十五至二十八天大者为上佳。
「如果可以订明得更仔细,我会挑选雄鸽,因为雌鸽的肉味较膻。」
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←
Chilled Passion Fruit, Bird’s Nest, Milk Pudding 百香果燕窝奶香冻
→
Zi Yat Heen Deluxe Appetizers
Marinated Dalian Sea Cucumber, Sichuan Peppercorn
Chilled Foie Gras Cube with Fragrant Red Wine, Finger Lime
Roasted Suckling Pig with Kristal Caviar, Gold Leaf 紫逸轩金装拼盘 青花椒冷卤活辽参, 指橙红酒鹅肝冻, 金箔鱼子酱乳猪件
↓
Sautéed Kagoshima A5 Wagyu Beef Cubes, Boletus Mushroom, Black Pepper Sauce 黑椒牛肝菌罗勒叶炒鹿儿岛A5和牛
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When working in Singapore, Ho learned how to solve ingredient issues in creative ways. “The chickens in Singapore lack the juiciness of the Three Yellow breed we have in China,” he says. After experimenting with birds of different weights and various preparation methods, he found the answer in using chickens of about three kilograms and brining them for three hours before air drying and deep frying.
The chef’s willingness to challenge old traditions is seen in the Deluxe Appetizers Platter. “Many guests, and even chefs,” he notes, “subscribe to the notion that Japanese dried sea cucumbers are the best. They don’t realize that the quality has been uneven these past few years.” Ho believes that fresh sea cucumbers from China’s Dalian are simply superior: “The meat is fresher, and when paired with green Sichuan peppercorns, you get a really wonderful taste.” Thus was born Marinated Dalian Sea Cucumber with Sichuan Peppercorn, presented at Zi Yat Heen without the traditional abalone sauce.
When asked which dish best represents his style, Chef Ho names Sautéed Kagoshima A5 Wagyu Beef Cubes with Boletus Mushroom and Black Pepper Sauce, because, as he says with a smile, “I come from a stir-fry wok kind of background.” To the Hong Kong classic of black pepper beef stir fry he adds first-quality boletus mushrooms and tops the dish with a few carefully selected basil leaves. Guests can taste Chef Ho’s culinary finesse in every fragrant bite.
这道烧乳鸽的皮比一般的更脆,原来他没有如传 统般浇卤水腌制、风干,倒是以自创方式处理:先用冻 香料水生浸六小时,经过「上皮水」、面粉和生粉,待 干后,重复两次,才把乳鸽浸泡卤水入味。虽然他花费 的时间及工夫多了两、三倍,但烧制出来的每只乳鸽, 其脆感不负「玻璃」美名。
早年于新加坡工作时,曾屡遇食材「不争气」的 情况,激发出他用创意解决各类疑难杂症的潜能。「星 马的新鲜鸡都偏瘦,先天油香没三黄鸡那么充足。」为 此他埋首厨房,用不同重量的鸡只及做法作实验,最后 得出用约三斤重的细小新鲜鸡,经三小时浸煮、风干及 生炸,肉汁最是丰盈。
何师傅敢于破旧立新的思维,亦见于他的「紫逸 轩金装拼盘」。「很多客人,甚至是主厨,都会刻板以为 日本干海参最顶级,没留意到近年质素参差。」他认为 新鲜大连海参品质更胜一筹。「肉质更鲜爽,配搭香麻 的青花椒,吃来让人精神一振。」遂成就了没有传统鲍 汁浓芡的「青花椒冷卤活辽参」。
问哪道菜式最能代表自己,何师傅二话不说答道 是「黑椒牛肝菌罗勒叶炒鹿儿岛 A5 和牛」。「因为我当 『炒镬』出身嘛!」以香港大牌档经典小炒「黑椒炒 牛柳粒」为基底,加入高级牛肝菌,最尾撒几片富东 南亚风的罗勒叶。客人能品到他的足迹故事,也吃到 牛肉的甜、感受到肉质的嫩与润,闻到牛肝菌的幽香, 无疑是挺高明、挺有「研究精神」的混搭。
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“YOU NEED TO BE PROACTIVE in fighting for your dreams,” says Andy Yeung. “I give my all in everything, because people can tell when you try your best. Whether it was successful or not, they’ll still be willing to give you opportunities.”
The infectiously enthusiastic executive pastry chef of Regent Hong Kong also believes in making his own opportunities. In earlier days, when design school wasn’t an option, he joined the Hong Kong Culinary National Team and participated as a pastry chef with his own team in the IKA Culinary Olympics 2016, with Hong Kong scoring two golds and one silver.
香港丽晶酒店行政糕饼总厨杨焯贤说:「你必须主 动争取你的梦想。我总是全力以赴,因为人们能 看得出你是否尽力。只要你用尽全力,无论成功 与否,他们仍会愿意给你机会。」
BY LORRIA SAHMET
• PHOTOGRAPHY
BY
DAVID HARTUNG
Growing up, Yeung had worked his way through various roles at his father’s restaurant before finding a place in the pastry room, a sanctuary of peace and quiet far from the clatter and clamor of
这位充满热情的总厨也相信机会 是自己创造的。早年他没有就读于设计 学校,而加入了香港厨师协会代表队, 并在 2016 年 IKA 奧林匹克厨艺大赛中 以糕点厨师的身份组队参赛。当年香港 队获得了两金一银的佳绩。
回首成长历程, Andy 曾在父亲的餐厅担任 过各种岗位,最终在糕点房这块远离主厨房喧嚣 的宁静空间里,找到他的天职。他之后透过外地 考察不断拓展对糕点世界的认识,因而对现代法
PRESENTED BY REGENT HONG KONG
50 TK cloud kingdom
甜蜜幻想
sweet dreams
Regent Hong Kong‘s executive pastry chef brings endless imagination to sumptuous indulgences of mesmerizing beauty.
Executive Pastry Chef of Regent Hong Kong, Andy Yeung
香港丽晶酒店糕饼总厨 杨焯贤(Andy Yeung)
the main kitchen, from which he couldn’t wait to escape. As Yeung’s knowledge of the pastry world expanded on various out-of-town excursions, he found himself fascinated by the intricacies of modern French pastry and the highly technical skills involved.
Today at Regent Hong Kong, he is especially known for his exquisite chocolate showpieces, including a remodeling of the iconic Star Ferry into a Pac-Man machine, a feat that took months to finish.
“I chose chocolate, and because Hong Kong is humid, it’s just easier to manage in a temperature-controlled room. I found it to be quite fun.
I love the versatility – there are so many possibilities in transforming different shapes, textures, and colors.”
Visitors peering into Regent’s tempting dessert counter find Yeung’s latest selection, an array that always complements the hotel’s elegant setting. Honeycomb Cake, featuring pecan sponge and raw longan
70% Pure Peruvian Chocolate Cake
70% 秘鲁巧古力蛋糕
国糕点的精细工艺及高超的技术产生浓厚兴趣。
如今在香港丽晶酒店,他以巧克力雕塑闻名, 知名作品包括将香港经典的天星小轮与复古小精 灵游戏机结合,制作时间长达数个月。他说:「我 以巧克力为媒介,但考虑到香港天气潮湿,必须 在温度可控的环境下比较容易处理。这很有趣。 我喜欢巧克力的多样性,在形状、纹理和颜色的 变化上充满了可能性。」
来到香港丽晶酒店诱人的糕点柜,便可见 Andy 最新的系列甜品,与酒店高雅的氛围完美呼 应。人气商品蜂巢原蜜蛋糕,以胡桃海绵蛋糕为 基底,并使用本地农场产的龙眼原蜜。带有迷人 玫瑰色泽的夏洛特蛋糕,外层包裹着精巧的手指 饼干,也同样魅力没法挡。
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honey sourced from a local Hong Kong farm, is a favorite. Beautifully rosy Charlotte Cake, encased in delicate ladyfinger sponge, is equally irresistible.
Every season is different as Yeung thoughtfully analyzes and adjusts to changing preferences and even the vagaries of the weather. “We’ve started to introduce more summer flavors,” he says, “because Hong Kong has been so hot in April. It’s early, but these are the kind of elements that affect what we create.”
No one theme serves as inspiration for Yeung – although he is partial to retro memorabilia. Rather, his creations are informed by a multiplicity of observations. It might be an ingredient or at other times a visual impression. Perhaps an intriguing flavor he’s sampled and dreamed of recreating. But he always manages to include new challenges as a way to constantly evolve his range and expertise.
面对季节变化,Andy 会针对顾客的喜好变 化,以及季节本身的特色,仔细分析如何调整甜 点风味。他解释说:「香港四月开始就很热了, 所以我们现在就推出许多夏日风味甜点。虽然时 间尚早,但这些元素会影响我们的创作。」
虽然 Andy 偏爱复古元素,但他并没有特定 的灵感主题,更多的是多重观察下的结晶。有时 可能是因为一种食材,有时是一种视觉印象,又 或者是某种他设法重现的诱人风味。无论受什么 启发,他总是乐于挑战新事物,不断拓展自己的 专业层次。
他的糕点也经常反映业内趋势,像是采用 符合可持续发展和零食材浪费等概念的料理手
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→ Artisanal Pastries
精致糕点
← Honeycomb Cake 蜂巢原蜜蛋糕 → Mille-Feuille 拿破仑蛋糕
Many times, his desserts reflect industry trends, including sustainability and zero-waste practices that use the whole ingredient. His 70% Pure Peruvian Chocolate Cake is made from an entire cacao pod, with cocoa nibs forming a crunchy base, cocoa mass infusing the sponge cake, and cocoa juice from the fruit’s white pulp made into a jelly and set on the top.
But at the end of the day, it’s all about diners’ enjoyment. “The dessert is only the ending,” he says. “You need to consider the whole dining experience and develop something that fits into creating the right atmosphere.”
For Yeung, pastry-making has no limitations. In fact, he’s looking for ways to incorporate the popular technique of fermentation into a sweet dish. “I don’t know how yet, but I’m thinking.”
法。举例来说,他的 70% 秘鲁巧克力蛋糕融
入了原粒可可豆,包括可可碎粒制成的松脆 饼底、可可块制成的海绵蛋糕,以及白色可 可果肉浓缩汁制成的果冻表层。
不过说到底,糕点终究是为了带给食 客愉悦的用餐体验。他说:「糕点乍看之下 只是一顿饭的收尾,但你仍需考虑整体的用 餐体验,并发展出有助于营造合适氛围的糕 点。」
对 Andy 来说,糕点有无限的可能性。
像是他目前正尝试将流行的发酵技术融入糕 点的制作。他说:「虽然我还没摸索出答案, 但我正在找到答案的路上。」
REGENT
PRESENTED BY
HONG KONG
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54 TK CLOUD KINGDOM
地道情•真丰味
FLAVORS FROM THE HEART
Three of Galaxy Macau™’s standout restaurants showcase the region’s internationally diverse food culture as part of “Galaxy Macau, Artisans of Flavor.”
THE AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS and artisan chefs of Galaxy Macau bring guests the best of the world’s cuisines in an atmosphere of gracious hospitality. With masterly culinary skills and the finest ingredients, they recreate and elevate the authentic flavors of Cantonese, Northern, Hunan, and Sichuan regional Chinese cuisines, as well as those from around the globe, including Macanese, Japanese, Thai, and Italian.
BY LORRIA SAHMET
In this latest edition of “Galaxy Macau, Artisans of Flavor,” three restaurants take center stage, each with its own distinctively engaging dining ambience and thoughtfully crafted menus:
「澳門銀河 ™」屡获殊荣的餐饮选择和大 师级料理工艺,在优雅的氛围中为食客带 来周游列国般的味觉飨宴。他们凭借非凡 的烹饪技巧和顶级食材,重现 并提升了正宗的粤菜、北方菜、 湘川菜等中国地方菜系,以及 澳门土生葡菜、日本、泰国、 意大利等异国美食。以下精选餐厅,不论 是用餐环境或特色菜单都独树一格,展现 「澳门银河 匠心传奇」:
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MACAU™
Ricky Wu
胡发祺
TRADITIONAL PEKING DUCK specialist Blossom Palaces has opened its newest location in Macau. Under Chef de Cuisine Ricky Wu, an authentic menu of Beijing and Huaiyang dishes fuses his inventive approach with traditional recipes. “I embrace innovation but strive for excellence,” he says.
The restaurant’s enduring signature, Traditional Peking Duck, uses a hang-roasted technique originating from the Chinese imperial palace and is served with Imperial Ossetra Caviar. Steamed Yellow Croaker with Hairy Crab Roe involves an elaborate process in which a fully deboned fish is marinated with lemon and ginger juice, stuffed with rich crab soup, and sealed with shrimp mousse before steaming.
Slow-cooked Wagyu Beef in Beijing Style requires simmering, roasting, and braising to ensure maximum flavor and tenderness, and Chilled Hairy Crab Roe Jelly with Sea Urchin, made with a dash of Huadiao wine, is a photogenic masterpiece.
Blossom
Palaces
花悦庭
Traditional Wood Fire Roasted Peking Duck with Foie Gras, Imperial Ossetra Caviar with Puff Pastry 特选果木烤鸭配霜降 鹅肝千层鱼子酱
传统北京烤鸭专家花悦庭于澳门开设最新分 店,这里的正宗京淮特色菜融汇了主厨胡发祺 针对传统配方提出的创新烹调理念。胡主厨说 道:「奉行创新的同时,我也追求卓越的品质。」
餐厅招牌的传统北京烤鸭,采用中国宫 廷流传下来的「挂炉烤鸭」技术,并搭配皇 家红宝石鱼子酱一起品尝。灌汤蟹粉大黄鱼 则需先将大鱼去骨、鱼肉浸泡柠檬姜汁,再 将浓郁蟹汤灌入鱼口,最后以虾胶封口蒸制, 工序相当繁复。
京烧文火和牛肉以煨、烧、焖等不同烹 调手法,确保牛肉入味却不失鲜嫩口感;水 晶醉大闸蟹冻以花雕酒提鲜,是一道既美味 又赏心悦目的开胃菜。
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THE IRRESISTIBLE AROMAS of Macanese, Portuguese, and Chinese cooking fill the air at Andaz Kitchen, an all-day dining destination inspired by the cultural heritage of Macau.
Executive Chef André Lai, who grew up with a mix of culinary influences, presides over stations that offer a global array of flavors. “As chefs,” he says, “we are ambassadors for experiencing a variety of cuisines, but we’re also responsible for sharing their histories.”
Frango Piri Piri, the restaurant’s signature chili-roasted chicken, is prepared a day ahead in an aromatics-infused brine and then slowly rotisseried for a crisp exterior. The piri piri sauce recipe from Lai’s father adds a kick of tingling spice.
Arroz de Lingueirão com Cherne, a seafood rice dish from Portugal’s Algarve region, is reinterpreted by Lai with coriander pesto rice, pan-fried Atlantic wreckfish, and the indulgent addition of razor clam.
澳门土生葡菜、葡国菜和中式料理的诱人香味, 总弥漫在以澳门文化遗产为灵感的全日餐厅「安 达仕厨荟」。
行政总厨黎安德自小在多元文化的熏陶下成 长,因而肩负起提供跨文化美食的任务。黎总厨说: 「作为一名厨师,我们不仅在介绍各国的菜肴美食, 同时也担起传承饮食文化的责任。」
安达仕特色辣酱烤鸡是这里的必点招牌菜, 鸡肉须先在混入香料的盐水中浸泡一天,再慢火 旋烤到香脆多汁,而画龙点睛的秘方辣酱则是黎 总厨父亲的独门配方。
另一道料理则以葡萄牙阿尔加维地区的海鲜 炖饭为创意灵感,在黎总厨的重新诠释下以大西 洋多锯鲈鱼配香菜青酱蛏子饭的方式呈现,并搭 配蛏子创造极致口感。
PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™
André Lai
黎安德
“Frango Piri Piri,” Andaz chili-roasted chicken with homemade French fries 安达仕特色辣酱烤鸡配自制薯条
Andaz Kitchen
安达仕厨荟
COURTESY
GALAXY MACAU™
OF
Luca Signoretti
Terrazza Italian Restaurant
庭园意大利餐厅
Carpaccio di Manzo “Fassone” 腌法松尼牛肉片
“ALL GREAT DISHES BEGIN with quality ingredients,” says Terrazza’s Executive Sous Chef Luca Signoretti, who leads diners on a flavorful journey through regional Italian cuisines. His seasonal menu of signature specialties travels from rustic Northern Italy to the bright Mediterranean South.
Having grown up in Italy in a family of farmers and hunters, Signoretti prides himself on sourcing the freshest ingredients and bringing out their natural flavors in dishes like Carpaccio di Manzo “Fassone,” which spotlights a prized beef cut unique to Piedmont. The lean meat is marinated for four days in rock salt and herbs before being brushed with oil and steeped for
庭园意大利餐厅行政副主厨 Luca Signoretti 表示:「所有美食佳肴,都始于优质的食材。」
他带领食客品尝意大利各地菜系,餐厅的季 节性菜单多样百变,横跨北意农家菜及南意 地中海风味。
Luca 成长于意大利农夫与猎人世家, 他以能够取得最新鲜的食材,并在料理中 发挥食材的天然风味为傲。举例来说,腌 法松尼牛肉片就以皮埃蒙特地区上等牛肉
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BY GALAXY MACAU™
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two days more in whiskey to intensify its flavor. For harmonious balance, it’s served on a bed of crisp rocket, artichoke, and freshly shaved cheese.
After garnering three decades of cooking expertise, Signoretti continues to find inspiration in familiar places. His Millefoglie di Lasagna della Nonna, fourteen layers of homemade pasta and meaty ragout, is his grandmother’s recipe. Other comfort signatures that capture true Italian culinary tradition are Sea Salt Crusted Sea Bass and Ossobuco, an exquisite Lombard specialty of three-hour-slow-cooked veal shanks in velvety rich stew.
为核心,将这种瘦肉以粗盐和香草腌制四天后, 用油刷过肉片,浸泡于威士忌两天以凝聚风味, 再搭配生菜、洋蓟、新鲜刨片奶酪一起上桌。 即使经过三十年的厨艺历练,Luca 仍从 熟悉的地方汲取创作灵感。祖传焗烤千层面是 Luca 祖母亲传的秘方,以十四层新鲜制作的手 工面皮搭配肉酱。其他还原正统意式料理的家 常招牌菜包括香草海盐焗鲈鱼,以及慢火焖煮 三小时的伦巴第特色炖小牛胫。
COURTESY OF GALAXY MACAU™ (2 + PRECEDING PAGE)
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spiritual
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bonds
TK Senior Writer Lucy Morgan connects with mystical Lower Mustang, Nepal
COVER STORY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
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under
A WANING MOON, the white peak of Nilgiri mountain gleams with ethereal light. The moon feels so much closer here in Nepal’s Lower Mustang at an altitude of twenty-seven hundred meters. I stand among angular stones and hardy plants, close to the terrace of an elegant building. I hold my camera up to the mountain, and, on slow exposure, it drinks in all the moonlight, turning the sky a French navy blue, the mountain a pale grey. Above my head, thousands of bright stars appear, and, at this moment, apart from the sound of my breathing as I take in this extraordinary nightscape, the mountains and valley below seem to fall silent.
Earlier that day in the nearby village of Thini, as the sun is preparing to fade, streaks of light passing through the glass panels of the Kutsab Ternga monastery roof illuminate a young monk named Lopen Migyur. Framed by tall pillars, he stands in front of a carved wooden wall painted red, blue, and white. He tells of the holy treasures concealed within this modest-looking place of worship, items that belonged to the Guru Rinpoche, an important Buddhist Master. I ask to see them, but first he must explain how they came to be under his care. We leave the building briefly and stand outside on a gusty ledge as he points across a line of roofs stacked with juniper branches. An older temple complex lies in this position, cresting a hill that looks remarkably like the head of a sleeping elephant, gnarled and grey under the clouds that race overhead. A large bird of prey circles the valley.
With soaring mountains that sing with high winds in harmony with the rushing waters of the Kali Gandaki River below, this is a daunting, wild part of the world. I have come to visit Shinta Mani Mustang, a new hotel that opened in August 2023. Part of the Bensley Collection, it is co-owned by architect and visionary Bill Bensley and Sherpa Hospitality, a hotel group helmed by Namgyal Sherpa, who comes from a Nepali family of expert guides. Shinta Mani Mustang - A Bensley Collection is on a hillside close to busy Jomsom airport, much used by trekkers keen to explore the Annapurna Circuit, a challenging hiking route that encircles the Annapurna massif. Most visitors pass through the town quickly, missing the area’s many cultural sites.
在一轮残月之下,尼尔吉里山的白色山峰闪烁着空 灵的光芒。在尼泊尔海拔 2,700 米的下木斯塘,与 明月的距离仿佛触手可及。我站在棱角分明的石头 与坚毅挺立的植物之间,身边是一栋优雅建筑的露 台。我举起相机,对着山峰,慢速曝光,用相机将 月光记录下来,天空呈现法国海军蓝色,山峰则是 淡雅的灰色。在我头顶,成千上万颗明亮的星星现 身,此时此刻,除了我欣赏这壮丽夜景时的呼吸声, 山峦与山谷似乎都陷入一片寂静。
当天夕阳西下的黄昏时分,在附近的蒂尼 村(Thini),一束束光线穿过库萨布寺(Kutsab Ternga)屋顶的玻璃,映照在一位名叫 Lopen Migyur 的年轻僧侣身上。在高耸的柱子衬托之下, 他站在一面涂有红、蓝、白三色的木雕墙前。他告 诉我,这个外观简陋的礼拜场所中其实藏了神圣的 宝藏,这些宝藏属于重要的佛教大师上师仁波切。 我想一睹这些宝物的风采,但他必须先解释为什么 这些宝物如今由他掌管。我们暂时离开建筑,站在 外面狂风大作的窗台上,他指着对面一排用刺柏树 枝堆砌的屋顶。一座古老的寺庙建筑群就坐落在 此,山顶看起来如同一头沉睡巨象的头部,在上空 云层的笼罩下显得苍劲而灰暗,而山谷中有一只大 型猛禽兀自盘旋。
高耸入云的山峰与飒飒的狂风齐鸣,更与山 下奔腾不息的卡利干达基河(Kali Gandaki River) 相映成趣,这是世上最令人生畏的荒凉之地。我 此行造访的正是在 2023 年 8 月开业的木斯塘圣塔 玛尼酒店。该酒店是 Bensley 系列酒店的其中一 座,由极具远见的建筑师 Bill Bensley,和由来自 尼泊尔导游世家的 Namgyal Sherpa 掌舵的 Sherpa Hospitality 酒店集团共同持有。木斯塘圣塔玛尼 酒店位处山坡,比邻繁忙的乔姆松(Jomsom) 机场,热衷于探索 Annapurna 环线(一条环绕 Annapurna 山丘、极具挑战性的登山路线)的登 山旅人经常光顾此地。多数游客行经此地时都步伐 匆忙,错过该地区的许多文化景点。
COVER STORY
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Two plane trips from Kathmandu’s airport, Shinta Mani Mustang is a bold project, an all-inclusive resort with a high price tag. It almost dares people not to take the risk to visit, and that, I believe, is deliberate. By traveling all this way to a little-known area, we visitors buy into mystery and embark on adventure.
The dizzying flights in tiny planes and the moving early-morning welcome on the hotel terrace, with General Manager Pradyot Rana introducing each surrounding mountain by name, give me the sense that this trip will become even more of an adventure than I had anticipated. It will invite us to connect, here in this most beautiful place, with nature, with communities, and with our own spirituality.
The hotel structure blends into the landscape, its mixture of stone and wood reflecting the natural elements that surround it. Full-length windows throughout the property give one the illusion of being at once inside and out. The building appears pared back and simple, which almost certainly means that it is the result of some extremely complicated design work. With all the excitement this little-discovered region holds beyond its doors, it feels like a calm shelter. At every turn, the mountains can be seen, with all of their extraordinary promise and allure.
从加德满都机场乘坐两趟飞机就能抵达的木斯 塘圣塔玛尼酒店是一项大胆的酒店计划,酒店服务 涵盖所有项目,收费也价格不菲。一听到这家酒店, 许多游客都会犹豫却步,而我认为这是有意为之。大 家千里迢迢来到一个罕为人知的地区,宾客想要获 得的是一种神秘感,并展开冒险之旅。
乘坐令人头晕目眩的小飞机后,宾客会在清晨 抵达酒店,总经理 Pradyot Rana 则会在酒店露台上 亲切欢迎,向大家介绍周围的每一座山。光是这段开 场,我就觉得这段旅程比我想像中更具冒险探索精 神。这次行程会让我们在这个最美丽的地方,与大自 然、社群,同时也与我们自己的精神世界建立连结。
酒店的建筑结构与周围景观融为一体,石头与 木材的混搭结合与四周的自然元素交相辉映。 整座 酒店的落地窗给人一种室内与室外毫无区隔的错觉。 建筑外观简约素雅,但无疑是经过极其复杂的设计 程序才兴建完成。在这个鲜有人知的地区,户外其 实蕴含许多令人兴奋刺激的事物,而酒店内却给人 一种平静庇护所的感觉。每次一转身,宾客都能饱 览群山,体验此地景致给予的非凡魅力。
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Each group of guests is under the care of a butler, one of a competent and knowledgeable team of guides in charge of a program of excursions. Our butler’s name is Abhishek Thakali, and he delivers a briefing about clothing, equipment, and adjusting to altitude before offering a rundown of the different activities we will be undertaking. There will be visits to important sites of religious pilgrimage and to villages populated by various communities as well as a trek to a perfectly unspoiled lake. We will be meeting important members of communities in the area to better understand this little-known region of Nepal.
While many hotels of its caliber promise self-improvement in the form of bodily purification, meditation, or physical training, Shinta Mani Mustang instead offers challenges. And rather than pushing adrenalinecharged ones, it encourages guests to engage in activities that they
每组宾客都由一位管家负责接待,而酒店
旗下有一群能力出众、知识渊博的管家导游, 他们会负责制定游览计画。负责接待我们的管 家名叫 Abhishek Thakali,在说明我们接下来将 要参加的各种活动之前,他先针对服装、装备 及高海拔地区的适应方式做了简要的说明。我
们接下来将参观重要的宗教朝圣地及不同社群 居住的村庄,更会徒步前往一座完全未受破坏 的湖泊。我们会见到当地社群的重要成员,以 便进一步了解尼泊尔这个少有人知的地区。
许多同类型的酒店都以身心灵净化、冥想 或者体能训练为特色,木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店则 提供各式各样的挑战体验。与其说这是在刺激
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might not ordinarily choose, and thereby to discover something new. I realize that I’ll need to control my fear of heights, because we’ll be crossing narrow, bouncy, and sometimes long suspension bridges.
I feel anxious as I tackle the first suspension bridge of the trip, my feet destabilized by the movements of people ahead of and behind me. Our guide tells me to stand close to him and to keep my eyes on his rucksack to avoid looking at the fields of dark earth beneath us or the pleated salt-streaked rocks above. He talks to me soothingly, telling me how he too as a boy used to worry before crossing these bridges. Soon I fall into step with him, working with, no longer against, the bridge’s undulations. And as the other members of my group offer encouragement and praise, there it is – a feeling of togetherness and achievement.
我们的肾上腺素,不如说是在鼓励宾客参与自己通 常不会选择的活动,进而探索新的事物。宾客会发 现我们需要面对、控制自己的惧高症,因为我们有 时候需要穿过狭窄、颠簸,有时甚至非常长的吊桥。
当我走过此行的第一座吊桥时,整个人焦虑 不安,吊桥因为前后游客的步伐而开始摇晃,以至 于我也快要站不稳。向导请我站近他,眼睛盯着他 的背包,不要低头看脚下的黑土地及地面盐渍斑斑 的岩石。他安慰我,说他小时候在走这些吊桥时也 很紧张担心。很快,我就和他步调一致,配合着桥 的节奏起伏,不再与摆动的频率抗衡。我们这一组 的其他成员也给我鼓励与赞美,这就是团结及成就 感的来源。
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The camaraderie continues at the end of each day. Welcomed back with a cup of hot apple cider or ginger tea (which helps with altitude acclimatization) we relax, during the couple of hours before dinner, in the well-appointed spa or enjoy the huge bedroom suites and their bathrooms with multiple bricks of pink Himalayan salt melting in the tub to ease any aches from the day’s exertion.
There is an opulently decorated bar with hanging lights wreathed in yak hair and a giant polished ammonite fossil fixed like a cartwheel
每天的户外行程结束后,这种伙伴情谊依 然清晰可感。回到酒店后,服务员会先递上苹 果酒或姜茶舒缓身心,亦有助于我们调适海拔。
在晚餐前的几个小时内,我们能在设备齐全的 水疗中心放松休息,或是在宽敞的卧室套房与 浴室里享受一下,而用粉色喜马拉雅盐块浸浴, 则能缓解一整天的疲劳。
酒吧装饰华丽,悬挂着用牦牛毛编织的吊
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on a wall. In contrast, the décor of the airy dining room is restrained. We gather every night for a themed set dinner that further unites us as we all enjoy the same dishes and listen to the front-of-house staff explain the history and inspiration behind each plate. One evening we eat course after course of momos, a type of filled dumplings that are one of Nepal’s most recognizable culinary emblems.
灯,墙上挂着一块巨大的磨光菊石化石,看起来如同 车轮一般。相较之下,空气清新的餐厅装饰则非常简 约。我们每晚都会聚在一起享用主题晚餐,大家一边 品尝相同的菜肴,一边听着前厅服务生介绍每道菜背 后的历史与灵感,让我们更有凝聚力。一天晚上,我 们享用一盘又一盘的馍馍,这是一种有馅料的饺子, 是尼泊尔最著名的其中一项特色美食。
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As so often happens with remote and unspoiled places, I sense that the area has remained very much the same for centuries. One excursion takes us north along the Panda Khola River to Lubra village, a stronghold of Bon, an ancient faith that predates Buddhism and is still practiced. We climb a series of slippery steep paths to a hillside temple, built around a cave, a small crawl space barely high enough to sit in. Nyima Dhundul, the current monk in charge of the temple, climbs into the cave to demonstrate how Tashi Gyaltsen, the holy man who founded the village, spent winter months in meditation. A stone with an imprint of Tashi Gyaltsen’s foot is kept near the altar.
Later that day, we have lunch next to the Panda Khola riverbed, feasting from silver trays on traditional Bon cuisine. Behind us looms a walnut tree, its broad trunk wizened by years of harsh weather. Covered with prayer flags and colored ribbons, it looks dead – until I spot a couple of branches bearing fruit.
This magnificent eight-hundred-year-old tree is the result of an experiment by the same holy man who prayed in the cave above us. He planted a walnut seed and decreed that, if the seed were to grow, the many pilgrims who came to the area should take it as a sign of approval to start a village community on the spot. Later that day, a small box appears in my bedroom containing a walnut harvested from the holy tree.
就如同其他偏远与未受破坏的地区,我发现 这个地方几世纪以来一直保持着相同的面貌。有一 天,我们沿着潘达科拉河(Panda Khola River)向 北前往苯教(一种早于佛教的古老信仰,至今依然 持续流传)的据点卢布拉村(Lubra village)。我
们爬上一连串湿滑陡峭的小路,来到山坡上的一座 寺庙。寺庙建在一个洞穴旁,那是一个大小勉强能 够坐人的狭小爬行空间。寺庙的现任僧人 Nyima Dhundul 爬进山洞,向我们展示创建该村的圣人 Tashi Gyaltsen 如何在冬季的数个月当中进行冥想。
祭坛附近有一块印有 Tashi Gyaltsen 脚印的石头。
当天,我们在潘达科拉河的河床边享用以银 盘盛着的传统苯教美食作为午餐。我们身后隐约可 见一棵核桃树,宽大的树干因为经年累月的恶劣天 气而枯萎。树上挂满祈祷旗及彩色丝带,乍看之下 死气沉沉,仔细观察才发现原来树干上结实累累。
这棵已有八百年树龄的大树,是在洞穴中祈 祷的那位圣人的实验成果。他当年种下一颗核桃种 子,并嘱咐说如果这粒种子能够长成,那么来到这 里的众多朝圣者就能将这棵树当成在这里建立村落 的许可象征。当天傍晚,我的卧室里出现一个小盒 子,里面就装着从圣树上采摘的核桃。
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Back at the hotel, I chat with Jason M. Friedman, the group’s director of brand and project, who tells me that Shinta Mani Mustang, beyond touching the lives of those who visit, honors the memories of two people. Namgyal Sherpa’s mother, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, became the first Nepali woman to summit Everest but sadly passed away during the descent. Shinta Mani Mustang is working with
the foundation that was set up in her name to develop a series of programs in the region to train and educate women. It is also creating a series of community outreach programs designed to preserve and promote local culture.
The second person honored is artist Robert Powell, who, Friedman informs me, fell in love with Mustang and
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spent months painting and drawing here. Bill Bensley became friends with him and bought many of his Mustang paintings long before he ever set eyes on this property. When Powell died, under agreement with his widow, the pictures were brought to the property, close to the countryside that inspired them, and now serve as a tribute to the artist. I feel a connection, not only to the living people and communities I have encountered on this trip but also to the departed and their legacies.
回到酒店后,我与该集团的品 牌和项目总监 Jason M. Friedman 聊 了起来,他告诉我木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒 店除了希望为游客带来感动,同时也 为了纪念两个人。 Namgyal Sherpa 的母亲 Pasang Lhamu Sherpa 是第 一位登顶珠峰的尼泊尔女性,但不幸 在下撤过程中去世。木斯塘圣塔玛尼 酒店正与以她命名的基金会合作,在 该地区开展一系列培训与教育妇女的 项目。该基金会还在创办一系列保护 和促进当地文化的社群外展计划。
第二位要致敬的则是艺术家 Robert Powell。Jason 说 Robert 爱上 了木斯塘这个地区,在这里画了几个 月的画。Bill Bensley 与他结为好友, 并在实际游览这个地区之前就买下他 的许多木斯塘画作。Robert 去世后, 根据与他的遗孀的协议,这些画作被 带到这间酒店,重新回到这个激发他 创作灵感的乡村,现在成为对这位艺 术家的纪念与致敬。我从中感受到一 种联系,这不仅是我在这次旅程中遇 到的人及社群,同时还有逝去者和他 们留下的遗绪。
旅程继续,我们也持续遇到非同 寻常的挑战。一天早上,我们在高海 拔地区攀登阶梯,前往慕克蒂纳特寺 庙(Muktinath),这是佛教和印度教 朝圣的重要地点。每走一步,我们的 心脏都会砰砰跳;每次呼吸,冷冽的 空气都扎进我的肺部。到达山顶时, 我看见一位半裸的男子跳进一潭深色 的湖水当中。地面上冰水湿滑,周围 的栏杆上立着反射阳光的冰柱。朝圣 者纷纷列队,男性身穿短裤,女性则 穿沙龙,在一百零八个神圣的喷泉底 下绕行,每个人的头都被喷泉淋湿, 而这就是一种洗刷罪恶的仪式。当冰 凉的水流到皮肤上,他们会大声呼喊, 但表情却露出纯粹的喜悦。
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As days pass, we continue to meet extraordinary challenges. One morning, we scale a flight of stairs at altitude to reach the Muktinath temple, an important site of Buddhist and Hindu pilgrimage. My heart hammers with each step, and my breath catches in my lungs like thread on a nail. As I reach the top, a halfnaked man jumps into a pool of dark water. The ground is slick with freezing water, and the surrounding railings glitter with long icicles. A steady line of pilgrims, men in shorts, women in sarongs, run a circuit under 108 holy fountains, wetting their heads under each one in a ritual meant to cleanse sin. They shout as the chilly water hits their skin, but their expressions show pure joy.
Another day, after an easier journey, we gather in the Apple Paradise Teahouse on a winding cobbled street in the charming village of Marpha. Local leader Kamala Lalchan prepares some regional specialties in her courtyard kitchen as we watch. It’s a cookery lesson with a difference as she discusses local government, microfinance projects for farmers, and a project to raise awareness about domestic violence. Charismatic, warm, and enthusiastic about her work, she tells us about love and explains Marpha marriage customs as we eat her homemade spinach curry, chicken, and pickles.
Perhaps the most striking of all our experiences is the one that wasn’t expected. On the first day, as the monk is leading me back inside the Kutsab Ternga Monastery to reveal the treasures he guards, he fetches a large strongbox and opens it, chanting prayers and scattering grains of rice as an offering. He removes a second box as he prays and opens it, releasing treasure after treasure, each one wrapped in colored silk. There are statues and a piece of a holy man’s skull, fractured as he lay down to die in the churning waters of the river. Finally, the young monk brings out a long package and unwraps its silk covering. “This is the Guru Rinpoche’s shoe,” he says, showing us the tip of a worn fabric slipper, as his eyes mist over and his voice wavers in prayer.
另一天,经过一段轻松的旅程之后, 我们聚集在迷人的玛尔帕村(Marpha) 蜿蜒鹅卵石街道上的苹果乐园茶馆 (Apple Paradise Teahouse)。在我们的 注视之下,当地领袖 Kamala Lalchan 在 她的庭院厨房里准备了一些当地特色菜。 这是一堂与众不同的烹饪课,同时她也介 绍了当地政府、农民小额贷款计画,以及 各种提高民众对家暴意识的宣传活动等。 她富有魅力、热情洋溢,对工作充满热情, 在我们吃着她自制的咖喱菠菜、鸡肉及腌 菜时,她也向我们讲述爱,以及解释玛尔 帕人的婚姻习俗。
在我所有的经历当中,最令人印象深 刻的也许是意想不到的体验。第一天,当 僧人带我回到库萨布寺揭开他所看守的宝 藏时,他拿起一个结实的大箱子,打开箱 子,一边诵经祈祷,一边撒下米粒作为供 品。在祈祷的同时,他又取出第二个盒子 并打开,里面放了一件件用彩色丝绸包裹 的珍宝。里面有雕像,还有一块圣人的头 骨,是他躺在汹涌的河水中死去时碎裂的。 最后,年轻僧侣拿出一个长长的包裹,解 开外层的丝绸。他说:「这是上师仁波切 的鞋子。」他向我们展示一只破旧布鞋的 鞋尖,而他的双眼蒙上一层水雾,祈祷的 声音也略显颤抖。
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SHINTA MANI MUSTANG –A BENSLEY COLLECTION: HOW TO GET THERE
Shinta Mani Mustang is in the north of Nepal, close to the small town of Jomsom. Its remote location makes it a little complicated to reach, but there are various ways to approach it.
如何前往木斯塘圣 塔玛尼酒店 木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店位于尼 泊尔北部,邻近乔姆松小镇。
因地处偏僻,需以特定方式 才能抵达,有几种交通方式 可以选择。
MOST VISITORS to Shinta Mani Mustang – A Bensley Collection will arrive in Nepal at Kathmandu International Airport. From there, the quickest – but also most expensive –way to reach Shinta Mani Mustang is by chartered helicopter.
There are no direct flights to Jomsom from Kathmandu, and because it is safest to fly to the area in the morning before winds become too high, it is usually necessary to spend a night in the capital, which also helps with acclimatizing to altitude.
Sherpa Hospitality, co-owner of Shinta Mani Mustang, operates the Nomad Hotel on a quiet street in the heart of Kathmandu, perfectly located for exploring the city’s alluring sights. It offers stylish, well-appointed rooms and stunning communal areas that include the Everfresh Café where a buffet breakfast is served, tranquil courtyard seating, and an upscale Italian restaurant called Piano Piano. It’s a luxurious yet affordable base for the onward journey.
From Kathmandu domestic airport, the first leg to Jomsom is a flight of around twenty-five minutes to the town of Pokhara. To further acclimatize, it is advisable to spend a day and night in this beautiful town before taking another twentyminute flight the following morning to Jomsom, where a member of the Shinta Mani Mustang team meets guests.
It is also possible to go by car from Kathmandu, and the six-hour drive along the Kali Gandaki River from Pokhara to Jomsom is extremely beautiful. The area is prone to landslides at certain times of year, so it is important to check weather conditions before traveling.
造访木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店的旅客,会先抵达 尼泊尔的加德满都国际机场。
从机场前往酒 店最快 ( 但也是最贵 ) 的方式是包一架直升机。
加德满都没有直飞乔姆松的航班,而且 前往这个地区的最佳时机为早上风力尚弱时, 以策安全,因此前一晚通常会先在首都过夜, 也借此机会适应海拔高度。
共同持有木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店的 Sherpa 酒店集团,也在加德满都市中心的静谧街道 上经营 Nomad Hotel,坐拥绝佳地理位置, 周边许多魅力景点值得旅客探访。饭店内有 设备齐全的雅致客房、别出心裁的空间设计, 包括供应自助早餐的 Everfresh Café、安静舒 适的中庭座位区,和高档意大利餐厅 Piano Piano。饭店装潢奢华精致,价格公道实惠, 旅客可在此入住,展开接下来的旅程。
旅客抵达加德满都机场后,需先搭 二十五分钟班机至博卡拉小镇。建议可先在 这个美丽小镇住上一天一夜,进一步适应高 海拔天气之后,翌日早晨再搭二十五分钟班 机到乔姆松。木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店会安排接 待人员于机场迎接到访的旅客。
亦可从加德满都驱车前往酒店。从博卡 拉出发,沿着卡利干达基河行驶六小时便能 抵达乔姆松,沿途风景美不胜收。考量到该 地区一年当中偶有山崩发生,旅客出发前务 必先确认天气状况。
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In the heart of one of Nepal’s most spectacularly scenic regions, Shinta Mani Mustang –A Bensley Collection offers guests the adventure of a lifetime.
BY LUCY MORGAN
TRAVEL
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• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
experiential destination
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a stone’s
THROW from the world’s deepest valley, Jason M. Friedman sits on a neutral-colored couch in a room bathed in light that is reflected from towering, snow-crested mountains visible through floor-to-ceiling windows. As group director of brand and project for Shinta Mani Mustang - A Bensley Collection, Friedman is visiting the luxury resort that opened in August of last year in the town of Jomsom, Lower Mustang, Nepal. “I’ve been coming to this
木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店位于世界上最深峡谷的不远 处,集团品牌和项目专案总监 Jason M. Friedman 正坐在一张中性色调的沙发上,透过落地玻璃窗饱 览山巅雪景。这座豪华度假村在去年八月开幕。他 说:「自木斯塘地区于 1995 年对外开放以来,我就 开始造访这个地方了。这里非常迷人,拥有令人难 以置信的人口多样性,以及多元的文化、美食和宗 教信仰。」
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region since 1995, around the time when Upper Mustang first opened to tourists,” he says. “It’s a fascinating place with an incredible diversity of people and an extraordinary mix of cultures, food, and religion.”
The building that stands today, designed by architect Prabal Thapa, is on the site of a half-finished one-hundred-room hotel that was acquired by the Sherpa family twelve years ago and subsequently destroyed in a violent earthquake. “I come from a family of guides,”
今日矗立的这栋建筑是由建筑师 Prabal Thapa 设计,其所在地原是 Sherpa 家族 12 年前购入的一 栋未完工的酒店,规模达上百间客房,却在一次强 震中被夷为平地。Sherpa 酒店集团执行长 Namgyal Sherpa 说:「我来自向导世家,父亲和叔叔多年前 就在附近一带从事徒步旅行导览的工作,早已体会 到这个地方的美景和挑战。」Sherpa 家族后来决定 在原址重建一座优雅低调的饭店建筑,风格上有点 像现代化的猎人别墅,与周围的壮丽景观完美融合。
2019 年,Namgyal 联系多年好友 Jason,询问 是否能一起合作。Jason 说:「当时 Namgyal 带我 来看这里,我就在想,不如比照规划圣塔玛尼野奢 酒店的理念,创造一种全方位、体验式的行程,让 旅客尽情活在当下。」这对好友随后邀请了本斯利 品牌创办人兼创意总监 Bill Bensley 来访评估,当 下他便被这里的空间和环境深深打动。Jason 说: 「我从来没见过 Bill 如此兴奋、如此着迷、如此动容。
Bill 随后以当地采集的天然材料重新设计内部装潢, 并运用大量当地工匠制作的艺术品和工艺品,整体 设计风格质朴,与大自然环境及所在社区紧密连结。
木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店坐落在尼尔吉里山脉岩石 山峦间,主体是由当地石材砌筑而成,部分外墙则 涂上锈红色、白色和蓝色的条纹图腾。屋顶上也像 当地村落小房子般堆叠着原木,巨大的窗户让令人 赞叹的周遭景致尽收眼底。
圣塔玛尼的理念,是先为宾客设计一系列住宿 期间可体验的活动,并打造一个基地,作为展开改 变人生视野的冒险及留下难忘回忆的起点。Jason 说:「我们在酒店设计完成前,就已经为宾客规划 好整个体验流程。我们知道要怎样让宾客尽兴而归, 而我们打从一开始就朝着这个目标努力。」
由于前往木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店需要从加德满都 多次转机和转乘交通车,因此这里吸引的必定是一 群勇于冒险的旅人,这也呼应了圣塔玛尼希望带给 旅客的精神。Jason 表示:「最好的地方,通常也最 难抵达。」
住客通常会入住五晚,费用包括全程的餐饮、 行程活动、健康体疗,以及洗衣服务,不会有额外 收费项目。这不只是为了住客的方便,同时更重要 的是免去个别消费带来的选择问题,创造一个更轻 松惬意的氛围。当为支付帐单而焦虑时,就难以全 心投入与人互动 ,难免会三思而行,是否该邀请朋 友到酒吧喝一杯或共进晚餐。根据我从事这一行多 年的经验,我们打造的这种环境可以完全抹去那些 顾虑,让宾客无后顾之忧地吃喝玩乐,尽情相处。」
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cloud kingdom | TK | 85
Jason M. Friedman and Namgyal Sherpa
Furnishings are made from natural materials like wood, leather, silk, and wool.
86 TK CLOUD KINGDOM
以木、皮革、丝绸和羊毛 等自然材质制成的装饰。
A yak tail embellishes a heavy wooden door. 木门上装饰着一条牦牛尾巴。
Shinta Mani Mustang’s natural building materials harmonize with the surrounding landscape.
大自然建材让木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店与周围迷人的景观融为一体。
says Namgyal Sherpa, CEO of Sherpa Hospitality. “My father and uncle had been trekking in this area for some years and already saw the beauty and the challenges of this place.” The family decided to rebuild the hotel as an elegant, understated property, somewhat like a stylish fortress or hunting lodge, that would blend in perfectly with the striking landscape around it.
In 2019, Sherpa contacted Friedman, a longtime friend, to see if they could work on the project together. “When Namgyal brought me to see it,” says Friedman, “I thought, let’s do a Shinta Mani Wild concept – the same ethos – all-inclusive, experiential, get into it.” The two friends asked Bill Bensley, founder and creative director of Bensley, to visit. His reaction to the space and the region was an instant sense of belonging. “I’ve never seen Bill so excited, so speechless, so emotional,” says Friedman. Bensley redesigned the interior using natural materials sourced locally and decorated it with art and craft pieces by local artisans. The subtle and holistic design instantly creates a sense of connection to both the natural landscape and the local community.
Standing on a rocky hillside flanked by the Nilgiri mountains, the finished building is made from local stone and partially painted in stripes of rust, white, and blue. Logs are stacked on the roof, much like the smaller village houses in the area. Giant windows throughout the property invite the astonishing surrounding scenery inside.
木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店每天都会安排一系 列活动,带领宾客走出酒店,深度体验当地 文化。 资深的当地向导不只熟悉每一条路径 和每一座村落,对于这片区域的历史、地理 和文化更是了若指掌。他们会驾车沿着令人 眩目的山路而上,或是穿梭在布满巨石的溪 床,带领游客探索当地的风土民情。沿途可 见宗教朝圣遗址、美丽的寺庙、尚未被污染 的村落、能在高海拔恶劣环境下存活的农作 物和花园、背景迥异而信仰各异的社区。贵 宾们将受邀参观当地居民的家园和神圣场所, 与社区领袖、教师、僧侣和朝圣者会面。他 们也可在这些崎岖的美景中,透过登山健行 或山地自行车等户外运动项目挑战自我极限。
Jason 说:「如果让旅客自己选择,他们 通常很保守,只会锁定自己熟悉的范围,也 因此难以体验到触及心灵层次的顶级享受。
所以请放心交给我们,尽情体验这五天的旅 程。让我们带领你们走出舒适圈,保证你们 最后一定会觉得这是有生以来最难以忘怀的 极致体验。」
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The Shinta Mani concept begins by designing a set of experiences for guests to enjoy during their stay and creating a base from which to launch life-changing adventures and to forge lasting memories. “The entire guest experience is written out, plotted out, before the design of the hotel is finished,” says Friedman. “We know how our guests will best enjoy themselves. We have been thinking of them all along.”
Because getting to Shinta Mani Mustang requires a long journey of multiple flights or road transfers from Kathmandu, those attracted to the destination are likely to be on the intrepid side – a quality that a stay at Shinta Mani Mustang intends to foster. “The best places are the hardest to get to,” says Friedman.
Guests stay for five nights, and everything is included – meals, drinks, excursions, wellness treatments, laundry, snacks. It’s a feature that is more than just a convenience for guests. “Removing individual payments creates freedom from choice and a more relaxed environment. Bill anxiety can prevent you from engaging with people and makes you think twice before inviting someone for a drink at the bar or to join you for dinner. This environment – and I know this from years of doing it – takes all that away. What we do is to create an environment that makes it really easy for people to eat and drink and spend time together.”
Shinta Mani Mustang offers series of activities that take guests out of the hotel each day to immerse them in the local culture. Accomplished local guides, who not only know every trail and village but also have extensive knowledge of the history, geography, and culture of the area, drive visitors up dizzying mountain roads and along boulder-strewn riverbeds to discover the riches and intricacies of the local region. There are sites of religious pilgrimage, beautiful temples, unspoiled villages, fields and gardens with crops that can survive altitude, tempests and fluctuating temperatures, communities with differing faiths and backgrounds. Guests are invited into village homes and sacred spaces. They meet local community leaders, teachers, monks, and pilgrims. They are also invited to test their athleticism and nerve on the many hiking and mountain biking trails carved into the rugged scenery.
“If you allow guests to choose, they will stick to what they know,” says Friedman. “They’ll play it safe, they’ll never have that epiphany of an experience. I’m asking you to trust us for your five-day journey. Buckle in for the ride –let us push you out of your comfort zone – and you’ll think it’s the greatest thing you have ever done and you will remember it forever.”
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营火照亮了夜晚,也为露台带来温暖。 CLOUD KINGDOM TK | 89
At night, a fire pit warms and illuminates the broad stone terrace.
山藏越世美
remote rewards
Adventurer, nature lover, and talented wildlife photographer, Pradyot Rana is the perfect fit as general manager of Shinta Mani Mustang – A Bensley Collection. He shares with TK how to get the most from a stay at this exciting Himalayan base. § Pradyot Rana
热爱大自然和冒 险,也是充满才华的野生动物摄影家,这样的他是木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店总经理的不二人 选。他接受TK专访,告诉我们如何深入喜马拉雅山的秘境,来一趟最丰富难忘的游历。
Pradyot Rana
How do guests reach a property this remote?
Overseas guests arrive at Kathmandu International Airport, where we give them express immigration service. From there, there are options. High winds mean that flights to the Mustang region depart early in the morning and may be canceled due to weather.
Many guests spend a night in our partner hotel in the city. You can then take an hour’s helicopter flight directly here from Kathmandu. Another option is a short flight to Pokhara and overnight there. Then you have two choices – another short flight from Pokhara to Jomsom or a longer road journey.
During the dry season, road travel is possible. During the monsoon, the rivers swell and there is a danger of landslides making the road impassable. This is not an easy place to get to, but it is really worth the journey.
Tell us about your food and beverage offerings.
Our guests are people who will have dined in the very best restaurants in the world. So what we propose is to give them a true taste of the region. Every day, they have lunch outside the hotel. This could be a lakeside picnic, or a three-course lunch served on a monastery roof, or a meal cooked in someone’s home. Then, when they return, we have a series of special dinners in our Nilgiri restaurant, with views over its namesake mountain. Every evening is different, but each is a celebration of local ingredients and recipes. For instance – we have a Momo night, where we serve multiple courses of stuffed dumplings with savory and sweet fillings. Momos are integral to Nepali food culture.
Our bar offers imported whisky, wine, and traditional cocktails as well as international and local beer. We have also curated a selection of cocktails that reflect the local area. Apples grow well here, so we have drinks using local apple brandy or the juice of local fruits. The bar is even named after the local moonshine – Aara.
What advice would you give to guests planning a trip to Shinta Mani Mustang?
Bring plenty of layers of outdoor clothing. It can get very cold, even in warmer months. You will be going out into the countryside each day, so good hiking shoes, a hat, gloves, base layers, a buff, and a warm coat are essential. But – don’t forget to bring some more glamorous clothes for the evening.
When you return from your adventure, after a warm bath or shower with one of our slabs of Himalayan pink salt, it’s fun to change into something more elegant for the evening. It’s important to distinguish between the day spent outdoors in sports clothes, and the evening with cocktails in the bar or around the fire pit on the terrace before dinner in Nilgiri restaurant.
What do you find most rewarding about your role?
When it’s time for our guests to leave, I have heard many say, “I hope our flight gets canceled tomorrow, so we can spend an extra day.” And sometimes they have tears in their eyes as they go. What I love is that people arrive as our guests, but when they leave, they have become our friends and family.
木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店地点偏远,旅客要怎么抵 达此处?
国际旅客抵达加德满都国际机场後,我们会 为客人安排快速通关。接下来的交通方式有几种, 如遇上强风,飞往木斯塘县的航班将在清晨出发, 天气不佳更会有取消的可能。
许多旅客也选择到我们在加德满都市的合作 酒店下榻一晚,隔天早上,便可从加德满都直接 搭一小时的直升机抵达酒店。而另一个选择,便 是搭短程航班飞往 Pokhara,在那里过夜。转乘 从 Pokhara 飞往 Jomsom 的短程航班,或经由陆 路搭长途车前往。
旱季期间,陆路是可以选择的,但当在雨季, 河水水位上升,山崩将可能导致道路无法通行。 要到这里的确不容易,但绝对值得一游。
木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店餐饮有何特色?
我们的客人都曾在世界各地最顶级的餐厅 享受过奢华美味,因此,我们希望带给他们的, 是这个地区独有的深度风味体验。每天午餐时 段,我们安排让客人在室外用餐,有湖边野餐, 也有在修道院屋顶上享用的三道菜套餐,甚至是 到当地居民家中品尝正宗道地美食。晚上,客人 可到酒店內的 Nilgiri 餐厅一尝丰盛美味的特色 佳肴,一边用餐,一边欣赏窗外尼尔吉里山的壮 丽景色。
精彩的菜式每晚不同,唯一的共通点是每道 菜皆是对于当地食材和传统食譜的赞颂,例如「馍 馍(Momo)之夜 」就是经我们精心规划,呈献
多款口味不同、有咸有甜的馍馍,馍馍外型像饺 子或包子,是尼泊尔饮食文化不可或缺的一部分。
我们的酒吧提供进口威士忌、葡萄酒、经典 鸡尾酒及来自国内外的啤酒,也设计了一系列充 满在地特色的鸡尾酒。由于此处盛产苹果,我们 也采用当地产的材料來制成鸡尾酒,包括苹果白 兰地或鲜果榨成的果汁,而酒吧就是以当地私酿 烈酒 Aara 为名。
对于计画前往木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店的朋友,您 会给他们什么建议呢?
请务必带上足够的户外衣物,因为即使在温 暖的月份,天气也可能非常寒冷,而且旅客每天 都会在山村间行走,所以高品质的登山鞋、帽子、 手套、贴身保暖衣、头巾和外套必不可少。当然, 也别忘了为晚宴准备几套动人的礼服。
当客人完成一天的冒险归来,用上喜马拉雅 粉红岩盐洗个热水澡后,换上一套优雅礼服,这 种转换体验很有趣。白天身穿机能套装在深山秘 境探险,而夜晚则化身优雅名媛绅士,餐前先在 酒吧或露台火窑旁品尝鸡尾酒,再漫步至 Nilgiri 餐厅享用晚餐,深刻感受日夜、心情、环境的轮转。 这个职位让您最有成就感的是什么?
当客人踏上归程时,我常听到很多人说:「真 希望明天的航班取消,这样我们就可以在这里多待 一天。」还有些人离开时,眼里含泪充满不舍。让 我很感触动的是,所有的来宾莅临时是以客人身分 来访,离程时,便成为了我们的朋友和家人。
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DAVID HARTUNG cloud kingdom TK | 91
aligning with nature 天人合一
天人合一
At Shinta Mani Mustang – A Bensley Collection in Nepal, a practitioner of Sowa Rigpa helps guests achieve equilibrium of body and spirit.
TSEWANG GYURME GURUNG, a practitioner of a healing tradition called Sowa Rigpa, or SoRig for short, stretches out his arms and makes two fists before unfolding the three middle fingers of each hand. “These are my diagnostic tools,” he explains. “I use these six fingers to explore the different pulses on each wrist – they can tell me a lot about a person’s health. They sense the frequency, the waves of the organs.”
BY LUCY MORGAN
•
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
DAVID HARTUNG
His formal title is “Amchi,” which comes from a Mongolian term meaning “the kings of the king,” and from a time when only those of royal birth would have received medical care. “Because we healed kings, this made us like kings,” he explains. ”Today, we are physicians who take care of everyone.”
For years, these skills were secret, and knowledge was passed from father to eldest son to keep the tradition alive. Amchi is the eleventh generation of his family to practice this branch of medicine.
”I watched my father working,” he says, “and my favorite teachers have always been my eyes and my ears.
“I am actually the second son, but I always wanted to be a doctor. My elder brother decided he did not want to follow in the path of our father, so the opportunity came to me – it’s karmic.”
Amchi studied first in Kathmandu and then attended Chagpori Tibetan Medical College in Darjeeling, India.
“We see the body as being composed of three natures,” he says, “three different humors – wind, bile, and phlegm. Each humor has specific qualities and they need to be in balance for health in mind and body to be good. When the humors are out of balance, physical and mental illnesses can appear. Once we understand the composition of the body, then we need to understand which plants can be used to help bring everything into balance.”
Amchi runs a clinic each morning in the Lower Mustang town of Jomsom. His dispensary is filled with medicines made from ingredients he gathers from the countryside. He holds a responsible position
深谙传统藏医药疗法「Sowa Rigpa」的 Tsewang Gyurme Gurung 伸展双臂、握紧双 拳,再展开双手中间的三根手指。他一边用手 做出按压的动作,一边解释:「这六根手指就 是我的诊疗工具。我运用手指替患者的手腕诊 脉,从脉象可以得知一个人的身体健康状况, 因为它反映了体内器官的震动频率与波动。」
Tsewang 的正式头衔是「Amchi」,是蒙 古语「王中之王」之意。这个称号源自只有皇 室成员才能获得医疗照顾的时代。他解释道: 「因为我们治愈了国王,因而被冠上了『王』 的称号。今时今日,我们是照顾百姓的医生。」
多年来,这些医术都由父亲传承给长子, 因此相关知识鲜为人知。这位 Amchi 是家族 第十一代掌门人,他说:「我以前常从旁观察 父亲工作。眼睛和耳朵是我的学习利器。我是 家里的次子,但我一直都有当医生的梦想。后 来我哥哥决定不继承父亲的志业,因此我的机 会就来了 这就是所谓的业报吧。」Amchi 先在加德满都就学,而后在印度大吉岭的查坡 里藏医学院接受专业训练。
他说:「我们认为身体由风、胆、涎三大 系统组成。为了身心健康,必须要保持它们的 平衡;一旦系统间失去平衡,人的心理和生理 都会出现毛病。在了解我们的身体构造后,下 一步是要去找到有助于维持身体平衡的药草。」
Amchi 每天早上在 Jomsom 的下木斯塘 看诊。他的药房里摆满了传统藏药,都是他亲 自在乡间采集的药草制成。除了替人看诊,他 在社区中也担任镇书记一职。他说:「我参与 了多项改善居民生活的计画,像是我们刚完成 的一项地下电力系统建设计画,或是目前正在 开发的饮用水和灌溉系统。」
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Tsewang Gyurme Gurung的头衔是
Amchi
Tsewang Gyurme Gurung, known by the title Amchi, is a practitioner of Sowa Rigpa medicine who offers consultations to guests at Shinta Mani Mustang.
」,是一位藏医。他会在木斯 塘圣塔玛尼酒店的诊所为住客问诊。
「
Shinta Mani Mustang is located on a hillside close to the small town of Jomsom, where Amchi holds a morning clinic.
木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店坐落在小城Jomsom附近的山坡上,Amchi每天早上会在当地看诊。
in the community, not just as a healer but also as town secretary. “I help with projects to improve the quality of life of the residents,” he says. “We just developed an underground electricity project, and we are currently working on drinking water and irrigation.”
In the afternoons, he sees patients in his satellite clinic located in the well-appointed spa at Shinta Mani Mustang. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out on the craggy white forms of towering mountains across the narrow valley. Guests of the retreat can schedule an in-depth consultation with Amchi, during which he reads pulses and pressure points across the body.
While Amchi cannot bring every diagnostic and healing procedure to Shinta Mani Mustang, he shares many techniques with guests. Treatment plans may involve massage, cupping, herbal teas, and steam, along with lifestyle advice. Picking up a striped animal horn, he holds it near his mouth. “This is a very special tool,” he says, “a horn from a small yak. I place it on the skin and suck, and it detoxes the top layer of the skin, improving circulation.”
Because he was born in the local area, he is familiar with the site where Shinta Mani Mustang now stands. “I used to come here as a boy,” he says. “It was a large stretch of grassland with around two hundred horses on it, and we used to graze ours here. Later, a hotel was built on the land and then the Sherpa family bought it and renovated it and we discussed the Shinta Mani project.
“It’s lovely to work in the place where I played as a child. Here, I can meet people who will spread the word about this area and about what Amchis do.”
下午,他会前往木斯塘圣塔玛尼豪华水疗 中心的卫星诊所问诊。从水疗中心的落地窗望 出去,隔着峡谷便是巍峨的白山峭壁。入住度 假村的旅客可安排与 Amchi 进行深度健康咨询, 以及全身脉搏和穴位的诊脉。
虽然 Amchi 不能把所有诊疗方法都带到木 斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店,但他乐于和旅客分享养生 秘诀。度假村的治疗内容包括按摩、拔罐、饮 用药草茶和蒸汽浴等,并且搭配日常生活指引。
像是他曾拿起一根表面有纹路的动物角,一边 将之移至嘴巴周围,一边解释:「这是小牦牛角, 是非常特殊的治疗工具。把牛角置于皮肤上后 用嘴巴吸,这样有助于上层皮肤排毒,促进血 液循环。」
他从小在附近区域长大,所以对木斯塘圣 塔玛尼酒店目前所在的位置非常熟悉。他说: 「我小时候常来这里,这里本是一片广大的草 地,大约有两百匹马,我们经常在这里放牧马 匹。后来,这片土地上盖了一间酒店,先是被 Sherpa 家族收购买并重新装修,最后我们讨论 了兴建圣塔玛尼度假村的计画。」 「我想让世人认识 Amchi 这项工作,而在 这座度假村工作,我可以和各国旅客相遇,他 们会把这些知识散布到世界各地,最终吸引更 多人来造访这个地方。可以在我童年玩耍的地 方工作,真的是一件相当美好的事。」
94 TK cloud kingdom
Plants from the region are collected by Amchi for use in healing rituals. At bottom is a yak horn, used in a cupping treatment.
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在附近区域收集草药,用 作治疗之用。其中图片下方 的牦牛角可用于拔罐疗法。 CLOUD KINGDOM TK | 95
Amchi
soul food 心灵盛宴
Every night, meals are taken at Nilgiri Restaurant, where dishes like this chicken curry plate are often inspired by the local cuisine.
每天的晚餐都会在
享用,其中多数是当地的特 色料理,例如这道咖哩鸡。 96 TK CLOUD KINGDOM
Nilgiri餐厅
Guests at Nepal’s Shinta Mani Mustang resort lunch at sublime Himalayan heights and dine at elegant Nilgiri Restaurant.
BY
FOOD CULTURE
LUCY MORGAN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
waiting
ON THE CORNER of a steep mountain road, with our vehicles parked askew, we lace boots and unfold climbing poles preparing to hike. We are joined by a caravan of ponies, each wearing saddlebags and panniers, their breath like smoke against the cold morning air. They belong to local farmers, who are renting them to us for the day and are very well compensated by Shinta Mani Mustang – A Bensley Collection. “We use the best-looked-after ponies for this job, so we pay well,” says our guide. “That means the farmers can give them the best care.”
The ponies are loaded with garden furniture, a camping stove, and sacks of produce. I spy some flowers as we set off on the mountain track under a piercing blue sky dominated by the chiseled snowy angles of Nilgiri Himal. Thin air means we need to stop every ten steps or so, as our hearts hammer and lungs tighten. Before long, the sound of bells approaches, accompanied by the rhythmic thud of briskly trotting hooves. We press ourselves against the edge of the path to let the passing ponies go by.
After an hour or two of walking, we emerge into a broad clearing on the edge of Chhema Lake, its green water imprisoned under a thick layer of paler ice. Close to the shore is a dining table covered with a cloth, complete with tableware and decorated with flowers. There are seats with cushions and blankets for comfort, and we sink gratefully into them, listening to the prayer flags slap and sputter in the fluctuating winds as the scent of garlic rises from a large pot supervised by some of the hotel team. The cooks are making us a thin white soup studded with garlic cloves, a regional remedy for altitude sickness. A bottle of wine sits at an angle in a hole cut in the ice, chilled by the lake’s cold water, and hot homemade bread warms our fingers.
Ponies carry picnic provisions up a winding path to a lake.
小马驮着我们野餐要享用的食物,沿着蜿蜒的小路来到湖边。
我们将车辆停放在陡峭的山路转角处,然后穿上登山靴、打开登山杖,开启了徒步旅 程。一群小马也加入了我们的行列,每匹驮兽背上都挂着驮袋和驮帘。在寒冷的早晨, 它们的呼吸仿佛在吞云吐雾。这些马匹都是附近农民租借给我们用的,而木斯塘圣塔 玛尼酒店也给予对方合理的租金报酬。导游说:「为了挑选品质最好的马匹,我们愿 意支付较多的租金,这样农民也才有足够的资金更好地照顾马匹。」
马匹身上装载着庭园桌椅、野营炉,以及一整袋农产品。沿路可见尼尔吉里喜马 拉雅山的雪峰雄赫屹立,随着我们在湛蓝天空下前行,偶尔还是可以见到路边绽放的 鲜花。由于高山空气稀薄,我们几乎每走十步就得歇息一会儿,同时可以明显感受到 心脏的强烈跳动、肺部逐渐紧缩。不久身后传来一阵铃铛声响,然后是马蹄有力的踢 踏声,逐渐向我们靠近。我们全都紧贴着山径边缘,好让这些马匹优先通行。
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We dine one day from a silver tray loaded with a variety of staples, pickles, and curries. 各种咖喱、腌菜和主食装满在银盘之上。
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Plants dry on a roof in Lubra village. 在卢布拉村的屋顶 上晒干的食材。
Mrs. Kamala, a civic leader and renowned Thakali chef, prepares a meal for Shinta Mani Mustang guests in her Marpha kitchen. 民间领袖Kamala夫人是一位著名的塔卡利厨师,她在马尔帕的厨房里为木斯塘圣塔玛尼酒店的客人准备餐点。
Lunches are always taken away from the hotel, and each one is an adventure. One day we lunch on the roof of a temple, fortified by sweet ginger tea. We dine in two village homes – in Marpha and Lubra – where accomplished cooks offer us silver trays heaped with different homemade local meat and vegetable dishes. Every evening, we join together in the beautiful dining room of Nilgiri Restaurant to enjoy a themed tasting menu, usually reflecting the cuisine of the region. This allows us to regroup, to discuss the day’s activities, and to share stories as we refuel our tired bodies with delicious seasonal and local organic produce.
经过约莫一两个小时的路程,我们来到一片宽阔的空地,那里靠近 着 Chhema 湖畔,湖面被一层厚厚的浅绿色冰层完全封住。湖岸摆放着 一张铺上桌巾的餐桌,并布置了餐具和鲜花。旁边设置了提供软垫和毯 子的休息区,我们在那里卸下旅途的疲惫,一边聆听风吹拂祈福旗帜时 的啪嗒作响,一边飘来酒店团队准备的大锅汤的蒜香味。厨师们正在为 我们准备白色的热汤,汤中有蒜瓣点缀,听说是当地对抗高山症的一种 疗法。一瓶葡萄酒斜放于冰面凿出的小洞里冰镇,与此同时,现烤的手 工面包逐渐暖和了我们冻僵的指尖。
午餐总是在酒店外进行,每一餐都是一场探险。像是有一天我们在一 座寺庙的屋顶上野餐,用香甜的姜茶为食物增添风味。我们也曾前往玛法 和卢布拉这两座村庄的地方家户用餐,那里的厨师将丰盛的家乡料理放在 银盘上。每天傍晚,我们会在美丽的 Nilgiri 餐厅一起用餐,享用各式主题风 格的美食,其中多半会是当地的特色料理。在这里,我们与彼此分享当天 活动的心得趣事,并以美味的当季有机农产品为疲惫的身心补充养分。
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“Lunches are always taken away from the hotel, and each one is an adventure.
午餐总是在酒店 外进行,每一餐都 是一场探险。”
Taumadhi 广场的尼亚塔波拉神庙 是全尼泊尔最高的宝塔式庙宇。
Nyatapola Temple in Taumadhi Square is the tallest pagodastyle temple in all of Nepal.
time travels
TK’s director of photography records his vivid impressions of the people, places, and traditions of Nepal’s historic city of Bhaktapur.
BY DAVID HARTUNG
时光之旅 PHOTO ESSAY
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY
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throughout
ITS LONG LIFE, the ancient city of Bhaktapur in Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley has survived earthquakes, political upheaval, and economic challenges, and yet it continues to extend to the world its welcoming hospitality and unique charm.
On passing through the gate to the city during a recent visit there, I couldn’t help but be aware of a feeling that I had stepped back in time. Walking along the brick-lined streets, I first came to Bhaktapur’s magnificent Durbar Square, which had suffered significant damage in the 2015 earthquake. Much of the old city experienced a similar fate from that ground shaker. Efforts have been ongoing ever since to preserve, support, and resurrect as much as possible. It’s actually difficult to find a building that is not damaged or leaning in a precarious way. Nevertheless, people continue to go on about their daily lives and occupy many of these structures. Some of them date back to the fifteenth century.
The city is a wonderful place to simply walk and explore the countless streets and small alleys. In contrast to Kathmandu with its traffic chaos, the number of vehicles allowed in the old city is limited by the local government. One can freely walk without fear of being run down by a speeding motorist. As I continued to explore, I passed shops selling everything from fruits and vegetables to crafts and art to garments. As I strolled the squares, I randomly chose a narrow street to head down and was intrigued by
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当地学生一早便会聚集在校园 内的广场,展开他们的一天。
Students begin their day by gathering in the school courtyard.
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Workers in the Peacock Shop print on handmade paper and prepare materials for papermaking. The Peacock Shop的工人正在进行手作纸的印刷工作,以及准备造纸原料。
the architecture, artistry, and daily life in front of me. I was equally amazed by the great number of small temples and shrines scattered around the city.
Because of its close proximity to Kathmandu, Bhaktapur is visited by most tourists just for the day. By noon, the city center is full of them, but by early evening, the streets are given back to the local Newar people. It’s at morning and evening that Bhaktapur can really be enjoyed. One day, I got up early and set out along one of its many narrow streets. I soon heard the sounds of children gathering at a school to start their day. Approaching the entrance, I peered in and an administrator invited me to observe their morning ritual. The students, all lined up in their uniforms according to age, listened carefully as the principal made some announcements and then led
巴克塔普尔位于尼泊尔加德满都谷地,这座古老的 城市即使历经地震、政治动荡与经济挑战,仍然以 其热情好客的氛围与独特韵味迎接游客到访。
路过城门进入城市时,我不由自主地有种回到 过去的感觉。沿着铺满砖块的街道走着,首先来到 了巍峨的巴克塔普尔宫殿广场,这里在 2015 年的 地震中遭受了严重损坏。老城区大部分都遭受了同 样的厄运。自那以来,一直在努力保护、维修和重 建尽可能多的遗产建筑。事实上,很难找到一幢未 受损害或没有倾斜危险的建筑。尽管如此,人们仍 然继续着日常生活,占据着许多这样的建筑物。有 些建筑甚至可追溯至 15 世纪。
这座城市确实是一个极好的步行探索之地,可
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Ramila Duwa, a third-generation yogurt producer, displays her King of Curd product at her shop just off Taumadhi Square.
邻近Taumadhi广场的「酸奶之王」,第三代传人Ramila Duwa正在展示店里的招牌商品。
them through morning exercise. And although it was apparent that the presence of this strange foreigner piqued their curiosity, they maintained their focus and composure commendably.
Bhaktapur is a city loaded with workshops producing wood carvings, Buddhist paintings, handmade paper, and pottery. Among them is a traditional printing establishment called the Peacock Shop. When I first entered, I thought it was merely an interesting stationery store. But after being led through a small doorway and up some stairs, I was suddenly in a labyrinth of rooms and more floors filled with Buddhist and Hindu statuary, as well as remains of old Bhaktapur structures that hadn’t survived the years. I eventually popped out on the rooftop, where workers were busy making handmade paper and also printing paper using a traditional spot color technique. Seeing such processes
以漫步在无数条街道和小巷中。与交通混乱的加 德满都不同,这里的老城区由当地政府限制了车 辆进入,人们可以轻松徜徉其中,无需担心被飞 驰的车辆撞到。在继续探索途中,我经过各种商铺, 从水果蔬菜到工艺品艺术品再到服装,应有尽有。 当我漫步在广场上时,随意拐进一条狭窄的小巷, 被眼前的建筑、艺术和日常生活所深深吸引。令 我同样惊叹的,还有散布在城市各处的众多小型 寺庙和神龛。
巴克塔普尔邻近加德满都,经常是游客一日 游的目的地。中午的古城总充斥着各方旅人,但 街道的主宰权却在入夜后重回当地内瓦尔人的手 中。若想尽情欣赏这座城市的传统风情,清晨和
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A woman weighs and packages turmeric at a small warehouse shop.
一位妇女在一间小工作室进行姜 黄粉秤重与包装的工作。
Artisans turn out a plethora of pottery every day at shops surrounding Pottery Square. 陶艺广场周遭的店家,每天都会生产大量陶艺作品。
still alive and functioning is always satisfying. A piece of paper is placed in a form, a stencil is laid on top of the paper, and a smattering of colored ink is dragged over the stencil. The paper is then removed and placed on a drying rack and the process is repeated. This method of printmaking goes back hundreds of years, perhaps to the ninth or tenth century.
It seemed that along every street or in the city’s many squares I was introduced to a host of activities. In a small warehouse down one narrow alley sat a woman with a mound of ground turmeric in front of her. In the light of a narrow open door, she painstakingly measured out small quantities of the yellow spice and placed them in little bags destined for markets around the city. 黄昏无疑是最佳时机。一日清晨,我随意在小巷漫步, 不久便听见孩童们聚集上课的声响。走近一探,一位 亲切的校方人员邀请我观看全校师生的晨操仪式。当 时全体学生穿着整齐校服、依年龄整齐排列,一个个 都仔细聆听着校长的话语,然后跟着领操人员进行晨 间活动。即使一名陌生外国人的到来勾起了他们的好 奇心,这些孩子仍专注而沉着地完成活动。
巴克塔普尔随处可见生产木雕、佛画、手作纸及 陶器的传统工坊。城内一家名为 The Peacock 的老字 号印刷店,我刚进店里时以为这只是一间平凡的文具 店,但穿过一道小门后上楼,忽然便置身于一处迷宫 般的房间,四周布满佛教和印度教的神像雕塑,以及 巴克塔普尔古建筑的残破痕迹。最后我来到了室外天
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Traditional Newari cuisine is served at Newa Lahana restaurant.
在Newa Lahana餐厅,您可 以吃到正统的内瓦尔料理。
At Potters Square, craftspeople work tirelessly to produce a variety of turned pottery. As one molded the clay into the desired shape, another would pick it up and take it to be dried in the warm afternoon sun.
As with any new place I visit, I wanted to try the local cuisine. The inhabitants of Bhaktapur are Newar, and while their food is similar to what is found in the rest of Nepal, there are some unique differences. One immediate observation was the way they prepare rice. Rather than the typical steaming or boiling, they use a technique by which the rice is soaked in water and then beaten flat and left to dry. It is served as part of a traditional dish called samay baji, in which the rice, served dry, is generally surrounded by a variety of preserved vegetables, meats, black soybeans, potatoes, a lentil patty, and an egg.
While in search of other things to taste, I found The King of Curd, where I met Ramila Duwa, a third-generation yogurt
台,映入眼帘的是忙着制作手作纸张并进行传统拓印 工作的工人。目睹这些古老工艺延续至今,实在令人 欣喜。他们将纸张放入模具中,覆上雕板后抹上颜色, 再将纸取出晾干,并重复这些工序。这种印刷技术最 早可追溯至 9、10 世纪。
漫步在这座城市,就仿佛坐上了时光机,不论是 走在小径或广场,处处都能目睹不同的传统活动。像 是在某条窄巷内的一座小仓库里,一位妇人在成堆的 姜黄粉前独自工作,那里光线昏暗,她将香料一点一 滴分装至小包,准备在当地市集贩售。
在陶艺广场上,工匠们正卖力制作各式陶器。有 些人负责塑土,有些人则将塑形好的陶土拿去日晒烘 干。
作为初次造访此地的旅人,我当然也想尝试一下 在地风味小吃。内瓦尔人的饮食习惯虽与尼泊尔其他 地区大同小异,但仍有其独特之处。举例来说,他们
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producer. She shared with me her order of King of Curd, which in its original king-size form was more than I could possibly consume on my own. Fortunately, she offers petite sizes of the product for those who would not be king. The yogurt, made from a combination of buffalo and cow milk, is lightly sweetened and fermented in clay bowls. The result is rich and creamy and unlike any yogurt I’ve had before.
As mentioned earlier, it’s at the beginning and end of the day that one can best observe traditional Newar activities. The sound of clanging bells at the nearby temple was my alarm clock as early risers would begin their day with prayers and offerings. I will long remember watching and listening to the ancient city slowly winding down from another bustling day as I sat atop the steps of Nyatapola Temple in Taumadhi Square. And each night, it was musicians playing traditional instruments in the square that lulled me to sleep.
有一种特殊的煮饭方式,有别于一般蒸煮的手法,他们先 将米浸泡水中,然后用力拍打让米饭呈现扁平状,最后 晒干处理。这种米饭料理名叫 samy baji,通常会和腌菜、 肉类、黑豆、马铃薯、小扁豆饼和鸡蛋等一起食用。
我还找到了一间名为 King of Curd 的店家,并结识了 第三代的师傅 Ramila Duwa。她为我准备了一份「巨无霸」 酸奶,幸好店里也有推出小份量的版本可以选择。这种酸 奶混合了水牛奶和乳牛奶,并在陶碗中发酵,口感浓郁顺 滑、带有淡淡甜味,和我过往吃过的任何酸奶都不大相同。
正如早前所述,若想一窥当地传统生活的面貌, 黎明和夜幕低垂之时无疑最为适合。附近寺庙的钟声就 是我们的闹钟,提醒着当地居民开始一天的礼佛活动。
我至今仍难忘自己坐在位于 Taumadhi 广场的尼亚塔波 拉神庙的阶梯上,眺望着这座古城缓缓从熙攘喧闹中恢 复平静,并在夜幕低垂之时由广场传来的乐声陪伴进入 梦乡。
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PHOTO
Temples all over Bhaktapur are busy every morning and evening.
巴克塔普尔的每一座 庙宇在早晨和傍晚 时分都相当忙碌。
Bhaktapur is a city for walking. 巴克塔普尔是一座适合 漫步探索的城市。
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当地居民和旅客相当享受从Taumadhi 广场的尼亚塔波拉神庙望去的夜色。
Locals and visitors enjoy watching nighttime activities from Nyatapola Temple in Taumadhi Square.
生活蜕变
transformational journey
At Nepal’s Kavya Resort & Spa, guests create magical memories and make lifelong changes.
HIGH ABOVE THE KATHMANDU VALLEY in the sleepy village of Nagarkot, a line of elegant wooden villas stands on a green hillside. This is Kavya Resort & Spa, a tranquil hideaway just a one-and-a-half-hour drive from Kathmandu. It has taken a while to build and prepare this special space, but now it is receiving guests seeking to restore their inner peace while nourishing their bodies.
在加德满都山谷高处的纳加尔科特(Nagarkot)村,
BY MARK HAMMONS
“The biggest luxury for me is ‘me time’ in my space,” says
一排优雅的木制别墅矗立在绿色山坡之中,这就是 Kavya 度假村与水疗中心。此地距离加 德满都仅一个半小时车程,是一处宁静 的世外桃源。这个度假村花了一段时间 才兴建、整备完毕,但现在那些追求找
回心灵宁静、滋养身心的宾客都已纷纷来到此地寻 求身心灵上的蜕变。
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Kavya founder Hitesh Golchha. “So we have incorporated this concept of privacy and peace into the whole architectural theme of the resort. We don’t have a big lobby or a large restaurant; instead, the property is broken up into smaller areas.”
The villas that make up the property’s accommodations are designed with simple, clean lines and made from natural materials. Large windows and terraces connect the buildings to an extraordinary two-hundred-degree panorama over the valley. “You can see this
Kavya 的创办人 Hitesh Golchha 表示:「对我 来说,最奢侈的享受莫过于在这个空间里享受『属 于自己的时间』。所以,我们将私密及宁静的概念 融入整座度假村的建筑风格中。我们没有偌大的 大厅或用餐空间,而是将度假村分割成一个个小 空间。」
由天然材料建造而成的别墅设计线条简洁明 快。宽大的窗户和露台,将建筑与山谷两百多度
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“All around you is greenery and trees. The mountain changes color throughout the day, from blue to a sort of gold at sunset. 周围都是绿意和树木。山的颜色在一天中不断变化, 可以欣赏到从蓝色渐变到日暮时的金黄色。”
Hitesh Golchha
view from your bedroom, your living room, and your bathroom,” says Golchha. “All around you is greenery and trees. The mountain changes color throughout the day, from blue to a sort of gold at sunset.”
Rather than flattening the hill to make space for buildings and cutting down trees to offer a completely clear view from the windows, the team worked with an architect to ensure there would be minimal impact on the natural surroundings. “We built along the terraces, working with, not against, nature to respect the line of the hill,” says Golchha. “We left trees where they were. As well as being the responsible thing to do, it gives depth to the view.”
Being in the middle of nature has multiple health advantages, including pure air and pristine water from a natural spring. The rich minerality of the Himalayan soil produces nutrient-rich vegetables and staple foods, which the resort’s chefs craft into deliciously nourishing dishes. “We have our own farm where we grow ginger, turmeric, lettuce, and herbs, along with other vegetables,” says General Manager Benupama Karkee. “This means we can offer guests a farm-to-table menu. We source additional ingredients from local farmers to help support the community. We like to offer our guests some Nepali dishes as part of our menu, but the resort’s proximity to Kathmandu means it is easy for us to source anything we need.”
Even the most uncomplicated dishes are a delight. Local potatoes, with an intensity of flavor that comes from mountain earth, are fried and seasoned with flavorful spices and herbs. A simple lentil soup – just legumes, water, and a little natural seasoning – has an umami quality that awakens taste buds, even at altitude.
Wellness options at Kavya range from pampering treatments in the beautiful spa to yoga and meditation sessions with Hswami Satya Shree, known as Guru Ji, who left his home village at the age of fourteen to search for enlightenment. He spent time with monks in sacred spaces, studied multiple disciplines of yoga, and has a thorough grasp of astrology and numerology. Now, more than thirty-five years later, Guru Ji is on hand to help guests at Kavya discover mental tranquility by leading bespoke yoga and meditation sessions.
环状视角的壮丽景观相互连接。Hitesh 表示: 「从卧室、客厅和浴室,都能饱览如此壮观的 景色。周围都是绿意和树木。山的颜色在一天 中不断变化,可以欣赏到从蓝色渐变到日暮时 的金黄色。」
为了令窗外的景色一览无遗,设计团队 并没有铲平山丘来腾出建筑空间,也没有砍伐 树木,而是与建筑师合作,确保度假村的建造 能尽量不影响周边自然环境。Hitesh 表示:「我 们沿梯田而建,与自然和谐共处,而不是违背 自然,希望能够尊重和保有山丘的线条。我们 将树木留在原地,这样做不仅是对环境负责的 手法,还能让景色更有深度。」
置身于大自然中对健康的益处不胜枚举, 纯净的空气和天然泉水就是其中几例。喜马 拉雅山土壤中丰富的矿物质,孕育了富含营 养的蔬菜与主食,度假村的厨师团队将其制 作成美味可口的营养菜肴。总经理 Benupama Karkee 表示:「我们拥有自己的农场,种植生 姜、姜黄、莴苣、香草及其他蔬菜,所以我们 能够为宾客提供从农场到餐桌的各式菜肴。我 们也从当地农场采购更多食材,来支持当地社 区的发展。在餐厅的菜单当中,我们很开心能 够提供一小部分的尼泊尔料理供宾客品尝,但 因为度假村邻近加德满都,所以任何食材其实 都很容易取得。」
即使是最简单的菜式也能让人大饱口福。
种植在当地山区泥土里的马铃薯风味浓郁,经 油炸后加入香料与香草调味就令人食指大动。
简单的扁豆汤当中只用了豆类、水和一点天然 调味料,但在这样高海拔的地区,这道汤品也 具备能够唤醒味蕾的鲜美滋味。
Kavya 的护理项目包括在美丽的水疗中 心放松休息,以及与 Hswami Satya Shree(人
TRAVEL
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Hitesh Golchha
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Hswami Satya Shree
度假村和水疗中心位于一片茂密森林覆盖的山坡上。
“You clean your body every day, you clean your mouth every day, right?” says Golchha. “But what do you do to cleanse your brain? There is just so much going on in the head. If you don’t cleanse your mind, you won’t have the clarity of thought or the focus to achieve what you are capable of. For us, wellness starts from the mind, so it’s all about meditation, about getting the clutter out of your mind and getting your focus back.
“The healing journey for our guests has a different twist. We have all these traditional wellness activities, but what we are also doing, along with that, is leaning into nature with hiking, walks, bird watching, mountain biking.” And if being on the ground seems too pedestrian, the resort also offers paragliding experiences that encourage guests to see the mountains from the birds’ perspective.
A stay at Kavya goes far beyond a simple healthy retreat at a beautiful sanctuary: “When you check out,” says Golchha, “we want you to have a sense of realization about your lifestyle – your food habits, your exercise, your sleep – where it stands right now and, going forward, where you want to go with it. This is a transformational journey and at the end of your stay, whether three days or fifteen days, you take the lifestyle with you.”
称 Guru Ji)一起进行瑜伽和冥想课程。他于十四岁便离家, 寻求身心灵的启迪和开悟,曾在神圣之地与僧侣共度时光, 学习多种瑜伽课程,并对占星术及命理学有深入的了解。 三十五年后的今天,Guru Ji 在 Kavya 为宾客量身打造瑜 伽和冥想课程,协助他们找到心灵的宁静。
Hitesh 指出:「我们每天都会清洁身体、刷牙漱口, 没错吧?但是我们要如何清洁大脑?脑子里有太多事情在 运转。如果不清洁大脑,我们就无法拥有清晰的思维,没 办法集中精神去发挥自己的能力。对我们来说,健康要从 心灵出发,所以一切都要从冥想开始;我们必须消除杂念, 并且找回专注力。」
「宾客的疗养充电之旅也与众不同。我们当然提供所 有传统的放松休闲活动,但同时我们安排的行程也能让大 家透过徒步登山、散步、赏鸟、骑乘山地自行车等活动亲 近大自然。」如果地面上的活动觉得稀松平常,度假村还 提供滑翔伞体验,鼓励宾客从高空中俯瞰群山。
在 Kavya 留宿的意义,远不只在美丽的圣地进行一 次简单的健康疗养行程。Hitesh 指出:「大家退房时,我 们希望宾客都能对自己的生活方式有新的体悟,从饮食习 惯、运动或睡眠皆然。我们希望大家能了解自己现在的生 活状态,以及今后的生活方向。这是一场蜕变之旅,无论 是三天还是十五天,在大家结束于此地的停留时,都能带 走一种全新的生活方式。」
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Kavya Resort & Spa nestles on a lushly forested hillside. Kavya
GAGGAN ANAND THE CHAIRMAN
of the Best
CHEF TAM’S SEASONS
Five top winners and four special awards highlight Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024.
BY CHRIS DWYER
SÉZANNE WING FLORILEGE POTONG FU HE HUI
Best 亚洲最佳 CULINARY CELEBRATION
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1 SÉZANNE
TOKYO, JAPAN I 日本东京
RATHER THAN DINING OUT on March 26, gastronomes around the world gathered in Seoul, either in person or by livestream, to witness the glittering awards ceremony of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024, sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. The more than three hundred chefs, restaurateurs, and food writers and critics who make up Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy selected restaurants from nineteen cities across the vast region.
At the event’s conclusion, Sézanne in Tokyo was crowned Best Restaurant in Asia, a remarkable personal achievement for British chef Daniel Calvert, who earned his stripes in the legendary kitchens of Pied à Terre in London, Per Se in New York, and Epicure in Paris. Sézanne’s rise in the rankings has been stunning, from a seventeenth-place debut in 2022 to second place last year.
The restaurant, at elegant Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, celebrates neo-French cuisine in surroundings both chic and warmly inviting. The finest hyper-seasonal Japanese and French ingredients are crafted into astonishingly precise, beautifully plated, unfailingly delicious works of art.
“The most important thing to me,” says Calvert, “is that the guest is having a dish they can only have here.” That could mean the chef’s Hokkaido shima ebi shrimp, first marinated in vin jaune and then topped with vin jaune jelly. Or it might be exquisitely cooked amadai with crispy skin in a sauce made from lemon thyme and sake mash or his fragrant morel mushrooms stuffed with shrimp and wild garlic.
Diners also rave about Sézanne’s desserts, including Calvert’s nowfamous Miyazaki mango with Chantilly cream, pictured here.
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COURTESY OF SÉZANNE (2)
3 月 26 日,世界各地的美食家并没有外出用餐,而 是齐聚首尔,亲身或透过现场直播见证由圣沛黎洛 (S.Pellegrino)和巴娜(Acqua Panna)赞助的 2024 年度「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁奖典礼。由三百多名厨师、 餐馆主理人、美食作家和评论家组成的「亚洲 50 最佳 餐厅评审委员会」,从亚洲地区的十九座城市中选出得 奖餐厅。
位于东京的 Sézanne 荣登「亚洲最佳餐厅」,这对 于曾在伦敦 Pied à Terre、纽约 Per Se 和巴黎 Epicure 等传奇餐厅任职的英国厨师 Daniel Calvert 来说,绝对 是一项非凡的个人成就。Sézanne 的排名从 2022 年的 第十七名上升到去年的第二名,名次攀升速度惊人。
这家餐厅位于优雅的东京丸之内四季酒店中,在 别致且温馨的环境中宣扬新法式美食。 餐厅采用最优 质的当季日本与法国食材,将这些顶级食材转化成历 久不衰的美食艺术,展现令人惊叹的精准厨艺及精美 摆盘。
Daniel 表示:「对我来说,最重要的是让宾客吃到 只有在这里能吃到的菜肴。」这句话所指的,或许是主 厨特制的北海道北海虾,先用黄酒腌渍,再淋上黄酒 果冻。或者是用柠檬百里香和清酒泥制成的酱汁所烹 调、皮脆肉嫩的细致甘鲷;又或者是他用虾和野生大 蒜填充、香味扑鼻的羊肚菌。
宾客对 Sézanne 的甜点亦是赞不绝口,其中包括 Daniel 非常有名的宫崎芒果配 Chantilly 奶油。
CULINARY CELEBRATION
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2 FLORILÈGE
TOKYO, JAPAN I 日本东京
CHEF HIROYASU KAWATE has been committed to sustainable dining since the opening of Florilège in Tokyo in 2009, long before it became fashionable. “It is really important to think about what I can leave for my children and for future generations,” says the chef, who is himself the son of a chef. He wows both critics and diners with his inventive French-Japanese cuisine, making delicious consommés from vegetable scraps or simply heroing vegetables ahead of proteins. Guests dine around a thirteen-meter-long communal table, ensuring a convivial atmosphere in a restaurant that continues to delight.
Florilège 自 2009 年在东京开业以来,主厨 Hiroyasu Kawate 早在可持续餐饮成为潮流之前, 就一直致力于发展环保可持续的餐饮模式。身为厨 师之子的他说:「思考自己能为孩子和后代留下什 么,这真的很重要。」他别出心裁的法日料理令评 论家和宾客赞不绝口。他用蔬菜边角料制作美味的 清汤,或是直接以蔬菜作为比蛋白质或肉类更重要 的主角。宾客围着一张十三米长的餐桌用餐,让餐 厅洋溢欢乐氛围,让人流连忘返。
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3 GAGGAN ANAND
BANGKOK, THAILAND I 泰国曼谷
ONE OF ASIA’S larger-than-life culinary figures, as well as a multi-award winner on past Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants lists with his former restaurant, Gaggan, Chef Gaggan Anand promises “a food theater with progressive Indian cuisine” at the Bangkok restaurant that now bears his name. The fourteen-seater chef’s table experience is one of eight Bangkok restaurants selected by Asia’s 50 Best, underlining why the Thai capital is such a culinary draw. In an establishment that has reached the remarkable height of third place just eighteen months after opening, diners can expect creativity, passion, rock-androll, and never-ending surprises.
主厨 Gaggan Anand 是亚洲烹饪界的风云人物之一,他 先前开设的餐厅 Gaggan 曾多次登上「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」 榜单。主厨 Gaggan Anand 承诺,在这家以他的名字命名 的曼谷餐厅中,「循序渐进的印度美食营造出引人入胜的 美食剧场」。这家拥有十四个座位的主厨桌边体验餐厅, 是入选「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」的八家曼谷餐厅之一,这也 突显了泰国首都的美食魅力。这家餐厅在开业仅十八个月 后,就取得第三名的惊人佳绩。宾客能继续期待这家餐厅 的创意、热情、摇滚风格及永无止境的惊喜。
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THE CHAIRMAN | 大班楼
HONG KONG I 香港
THE FIRST OF TWO Hong Kong restaurants near the top of the list, The Chairman is home to brilliant twists on Cantonese cuisine. Chef-owner Danny Yip’s focus on locally sourced, sustainable ingredients results in such standout specialties as his signature steamed fresh flowery crab with aged Shaoxing wine and fragrant chicken oil. Having achieved number one among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2021, The Chairman remains among the hardest restaurants to book in all of Asia. One taste of either the crispy prawns with salty egg yolk or the chef’s unique take on char siu pork explains why.
大班楼是两家接近榜首的香港餐厅中的其 中一家,主打创意粤菜。主厨叶一南致力于 运用来自本地的可持续食材,其招牌菜鸡油 花雕蒸花蟹配陈村粉,堪称一绝。大班楼在 2021 年度「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」评选中名列 第一,是全亚洲最难预订的餐厅之一。品尝 过金沙虾球或主厨独具匠心的叉烧后,就会 明白为何预订这家餐厅会难如登天。
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CHEF VICKY CHENG had double reason to celebrate at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants event. Not only was Wing rated No. 5 but it also won the Highest Climber Award, with an impressive ascent of thirtytwo places. Following the success of Cheng’s French-Chinese food at VEA, Wing expresses a more personal interpretation of the eight great Chinese cuisines. The beautiful dining room reflects tradition but also offers modern touches throughout. That same approach translates to dishes like smoked eggplant in sour sauce or the local classic of cheung fun rice noodle rolls elegantly elevated with Alaskan king crab.
在今年的「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」中,总厨郑永麒 可说是喜上加喜。永不仅被授予第五名的荣耀, 同时还获得最佳进步奖,排名整整跃升 32 位, 令人刮目相看。继郑总厨在 VEA 的法式中餐大 获成功之后,永也对中国八大菜系进行了个性 化的诠释。餐厅环境优美,既体现传统,又不 失现代气息。同样的手法也体现在烟熏酸汁茄 子或当地经典的煎肠粉等菜肴上,阿拉斯加皇 帝蟹的加持则让肠粉更显优雅。
+ Highest Climber
最佳进步奖
5
WING | 永
HONG KONG I 香港
CULINARY CELEBRATION
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Icon Award
标志人物奖
DANNY YIP 叶一南
THE CHAIRMAN, HONG KONG I 香港大班楼
THIS YEAR’S ICON AWARD went to the aforementioned Danny Yip of The Chairman for his game-changing approach to creating Chinese food that is innovative in the extreme but always respectful of tradition. During his decades as a restaurateur, Yip, who has soaked up cultural and culinary influences from around the world, has remained tireless in his mission to keep improving, in menus, in research, and in sourcing of ingredients. His unique dishes often follow months or even years of refinement. Yip continues to mentor young Asian chefs from every background, confirming his reputation as a pioneering figure in Asia’s dining landscape.
今年的标志人物奖颁给前面提到的大班楼餐厅 主厨叶一南,以表扬他在烹饪中菜时打破传统、 不落窠臼的料理手法,这种手法不仅具有创新 精神,更尊重中式传统。在他数十年的餐饮生 涯中,叶主厨吸收世界各地的文化与烹饪元素, 在菜单开发、研究与食材采购方面始终孜孜不 倦、精益求精。他的独特菜肴往往经过数月甚 至数年的改良。叶主厨也持续指导来自不同背 景的亚洲年轻厨师,这也印证了他正是亚洲餐 饮业的先驱。
CULINARY CELEBRATION COURTESY OF THE CHAIRMAN (2)
Asia’s Best Female Chef 亚洲最佳女主厨
PICHAYA ‘PAM’
SOONTORNYANAKIJ
POTONG, BANGKOK I 曼谷 POTONG
THIS YEAR BANGKOK-BASED POTONG climbed eighteen spots to No.17, with chef-owner Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij also claiming the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2024. Her historic restaurant in the heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown proudly underlines her Thai-Chinese heritage, and progressive Thai-Chinese cuisine is where Soontornyanakij has made her mark, with a unique five-element philosophy of “Salt, Acid, Spice, Texture, and Maillard Reaction” featuring in every dish. Highlights of a twenty-course tasting menu include specialties like oyster with black squid and black pearl and her exceptional duck leg with Sichuan pepper. 今年,位于曼谷的 Potong 排名上升了十八位,位居 第十七名,而主厨 Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij 也荣膺 2024 年度「亚洲最佳女主厨」。这家历史悠久 的餐厅位于曼谷唐人街中心地带,彰显她的泰华背景。 Pichaya 以其独特的「盐、酸、香料、口感及梅纳反应」 五大要素理念,体现前卫的泰华美食。在二十道菜的 品尝菜单当中,黑鱿鱼黑珍珠生蚝和川椒鸭腿等特色 菜是其中亮点。
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Highest-ranking Restaurant in Macau
澳门排名最高的餐厅
CHEF TAM’S SEASONS
谭卉
AT CHEF TAM’S SEASONS at Wynn Palace, Chef Tam Kwok Fung celebrates refined Cantonese cuisine made with the best, and often the costliest, ingredients. After winning acclaim at Jade Dragon in Macau and then at Wing Lei Palace, which reached No. 36 in 2019, Chef Tam has this year retained the honor of helming the highest-ranking restaurant in Macau. Sensational signatures include crispy sea cucumber with minced shrimp, roast goose with plum sauce, and a sublime steamed French blue lobster with egg white and caviar. Also not to be missed are his masterly barbecued meats and dim sum.
在永利皇宫的谭卉餐厅,由行政总厨谭 国锋主掌的料理团队运用最顶级的食材 (通常也是最昂贵)来烹制精致粤菜。主 厨曾在澳门的誉珑轩和永利宫赢得赞誉, 永利宫曾在 2019 年排名第 36 位。今年 谭卉同样获颁为澳门排名最高的餐厅, 使谭师傅继续拥有这项殊荣。谭师傅的 招牌菜包括百花酿脆海参、梅子酱烧鹅、 蛋白蒸蓝龙虾配鱼子酱等。此外,他精 湛的烧味和点心也不容错过。
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CULINARY CELEBRATION
Highest-ranking Restaurant in Mainland China
中国大陆排名最高的餐厅
FU HE HUI 福和慧
TONY LU, head chef at Fu He Hui in the French Concession, was born and raised in Shanghai. He has mastered traditional Chinese cuisines like few others but always adds his own unique touch of modernity. Ten years after opening, Fu He Hui retains its Zen ambience, a vibe right in tune with the completely vegetarian focus of the menu. Humble ingredients assume unforgettable status, thanks to sourcing of the finest local, sustainable, seasonal produce from suppliers across China. Expert tea pairing offered with the set menus perfectly complements the always-flavordriven dishes.
位于法租界的福和慧餐厅主厨卢怿明于上海 出生及成长,他对中国传统菜肴的掌握可谓 炉火纯青,同时又能加入自己独特的现代元 素。开业十年间,福和慧提供全素菜肴,完 美呼应餐厅内禅意的氛围。餐厅从中国各地 的供应商采购最顶级的本地、可持续时令食 材。这些食材虽朴实无华,却让人入口难忘。
精选套餐及专业茶饮的搭配,与以风味为导 向的菜肴相得益彰。
COURTESY OF CHEF TAM’S SEASONS (2), COURTESY OF FU HE HUI (2) cloud kingdom | TK | 133
spiced up
It’s DEJA VU all over again as the acclaimed Shanghai restaurant reopens with refined Western food enhanced by newly discovered Chinese flavors.
邂逅香韵
福建军曹鱼
子酱
Dry-aged Cobio: Kaluga Caviar, Litsea, Distilled
: 卡露伽鱼
, 木姜子, 蒸馏
Salt-baked Abalone: Litsea, Abalone Sauce, Salt Baked 大连鲍鱼: 干木姜子, 鲍鱼肝酱, 盐焗
Litsea Cocoa: Fermented Tropical Fruit Jam, Litsea, Emulsify 木姜子可可: 发酵热带水果酱, 木姜子, 乳化
AFTER A FOUR-YEAR HIATUS, DEJA VU on Shanghai’s famed Bund has returned as a dining destination where mysterious Oriental spices meet elevated Western cuisine. It’s again in its original location along the Huangpu River at No. 22 on the Bund, a historic 1906 building that has witnessed Shanghai’s century-long transformation.
During DEJA VU ’s downtime, Chef Jonathan Song traveled the length and breadth of China to uncover unusual spices and previously unknown fermentation and aging techniques. “I led my team to places like Taizhou, Xiangshan, and Ningbo to explore new seafood possibilities,” he says. “Every few months, I’d go to Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, and remote areas near Tibet to search for ingredients that were not commonly used or had never been widely seen before.” Back in Shanghai, he has been combining modern Western cooking with this wonderful range of rarely tasted flavors to offer guests a remarkable new dining experience.
历经四年,DEJA VU 泊诗南涅槃归来,在上海外滩 的原址重获新生,让神秘的东方香料与西餐邂逅。 餐厅位于上海黄浦江西岸的传奇建筑 —— 外滩 22 号,它始建于 1906 年,见证上海变迁的百年风霜。
在 DEJA VU 泊诗南暂别期间,主厨宋昕游历 全国,以东方香料为线索,以发酵和熟成为脉络, 发掘香辛料和有趣的食材。他说:「我会领团队 去台州、象山或宁波找海鲜。又或者几个月去一 次云南、贵州、四川,或深入到藏区一些边界地 域找一些以前不常用,甚至没见过的食材。」现 在回到上海,他将广袤东方大地的食 材与西式烹饪手法融合,在黄浦江畔 开启一场味蕾与感官的探索之旅。
BY ROBERT BURKLEY AND EDISON XIA
“Regarding concepts for my dishes,” he says, “I actually studied fine art before starting high school. I conceptualize a framework for the ingredients and then come up with images to implement them. I will first sketch out some ideas and chose the one I like best.”
As its name suggests, DEJA VU pays tribute to days gone by. A short entrance corridor in shades of vermilion and black with gold embellishments seems to lead back in time, opening out on a spacious interior and revealing a crystal chandelier, dining tables in retro style, high-backed chairs, and ornate screens for an elegant touch of privacy. Large windows offer a montage of the neon-lit nightlife of the ever-changing city below.
While various culinary trends play out among the dozens of highend restaurants along the Bund, DEJA VU sets itself apart by confidently embracing its own unique approach. “We hope our guests find something different,” says Chef Song, “something new and exciting with every visit.”
说到菜品的构思,宋主厨表示: 「其实我在高中之前是学美术的。我会 在理论上把食材构想出一个框架,先在脑海中去 补充它的画面,再去实现这些构想。」
正如餐厅名字 DEJA VU 的释义 ——「似曾相 识」,这是餐厅对过往时光与历史的致敬。餐厅 入口处,艳丽的红色、神秘的黑色和点缀其间的 高贵金色组成一条长廊,回溯了昔日时光。巨大 的枝形水晶吊灯、复古的长桌、优雅的高背椅、 华美的屏风组成的优雅及具私隐度的用餐环境。
透过巨幅弦窗,是川流不息的道路和明灭的霓虹, 让人沉浸于繁华魔都百年沉浮的掠影中。
在外滩,多间精致、高端餐厅林立,各种流 行趋势大行其间,而 DEJA VU 泊诗南安静地守护 着自己的东方饮食美学。宋主厨说:「我们希望 客人每次来用餐,都能发掘一些跟外面不一样、 与别不同的元素。」
PRESENTED BY DEJA VU COURTESY OF DEJA VU (3) cloud kingdom | TK | 135
首现法式风采
french zest
Sofitel Ambassador Seoul Hotel harmonizes French luxury lifestyle with vibrant Korean culture.
AS THE FIRST of the upscale brand’s hostelries in South Korea, Sofitel Ambassador Seoul Hotel & Serviced Residences brings a touch of French chic to the country’s dynamic capital. “We’re delighted to introduce modern French luxury hospitality in Seoul, one of the most sought-after cities in the world, with more than two thousand years of history behind it,” says Garth Simmons, Accor CEO for Southeast Asia, Japan, and South Korea.
Sofitel Ambassador Seoul’s four restaurants and roof bar deliver the authentically elegant French experience. “You get the flavors the same way as you would in France,” says Executive Chef Mikael Robin. The hotel’s stylish bistro, Fait Maison, features set and à la carte menus “with all the French classics,” says the chef,
索菲特首尔大使酒店和服务式公寓是雅高酒店集团在 韩国的首个高级酒店据点,把优雅时尚的法式生活风 格带到活力四射的韩国首都。集团东南亚、日本及韩 国区域执行长 Garth Simmons 介绍道:「首尔无疑是 世界上最受欢迎的城市之一,我们很高兴能在这座超 过两千年历史的城市引进现代法式奢华酒店体验。」
酒店行政主厨 Mikael Robin 说:「在这里,你可 以品尝到最道地的法式风味,仿若置身法国。」索菲 特首尔大使酒店的四间餐厅和天空酒吧,提供正宗、 优雅、美味的法式餐饮选择。
以法式餐厅 Fait Maison 提供的套餐和单点菜式 来说,主厨表示:「这里提供最经典的法式美馔 -从
TASTING DESTINATION
① ② ③ 136 | TK | cloud kingdom
①
Head Chef of MIO, Changyoup Jung
MIO餐厅主厨 Changyoup Jung
②
The sushi counter at MIO
MIO的寿司吧枱
③
The culinary team of Fait Maison: Seong-jae Park, Mikael Robin, Hyun-ho Lim Fait Maison的主厨团队: Seong-jae Park, Mikael Robin, Hyun-ho Lim
“from onion soup to snails to fish and duck. On the weekend, we have a buffet concept that’s again really French, and we change it by region.”
Parisian lounge L’Espace enchants guests with Le Goûter, Sofitel’s signature afternoon tea set. And Jardin d’Hiver, the hotel’s epicurean café bakery, offers exquisite pastries and croissants. “Our croissants are all homemade,” notes Chef Robin. “Good butter is the soul of French cuisine, and we get the best at this hotel.” The café’s enticing chocolate room beckons with gourmet chocolates and luscious chocolate beverages.
For a change of pace, MIO is the perfect place to explore modern Japanese cuisine and sushi omakase dining, paired with craft sakes and wines.
With its stunning views and space-travel ambience, the hotel’s roof bar, Latitude32, serves a finely curated selection of adult beverages in three zones: whiskey bar Eau de Vie, cocktail space Long Bar, and the intimate music lounge.
④
An enjoyable meal by the talented culinary team of Fait Maison 由Fait Maison厨艺团队准备的精致料理
洋葱汤到蜗牛、鱼类到鸭肉;此外,餐厅周末也提供 法式风味自助餐,以法式专属的概念,依据不同地区 特色来制作代表菜肴。」
来到充满巴黎风情的 L’Espace,宾客可以品尝到 索菲特的招牌法式下午茶 Le Goûter,而酒店的咖啡馆 烘焙坊 Jardin d’Hiver,则提供精致的法式糕点和可颂。
Mikael 主厨补充:「我们的可颂皆为纯手工制作。法国 菜的灵魂在于品质好的奶油,而在这里,我们就有最 优良的食材。」咖啡馆内更有诱人的巧克力室,放满精 致的单品巧克力和香浓巧克力饮品。
若想换个风格,MIO 则是体验现代日本美食的不 二之选。这里供应日式新派菜,更有佐以精酿清酒与 不同佳酿的厨师发办寿司套餐。
在酒店的 Latitude32 屋顶酒吧,则可俯瞰首尔的 迷人景致,享受宛如太空之旅的氛围。 酒吧包括三个 区域:威士忌吧 Eau de Vie、鸡尾酒吧 Long Bar 及小 型音乐酒廊等,皆有丰富的高级酒品供宾客选择。
④ COURTESY OF SOFITEL AMBASSADOR SEOUL HOTEL (4) cloud kingdom | TK | 137
黑国强
Andy Hei
embracing possibilities
Presenting the best of Asian art on the international stage, Andy Hei’s two major art fairs have broadened their scope.
ANDY HEI, founder of Fine Art Asia and Ink Asia, two of the region’s most successful Asian art fairs, has been interested in antiques since childhood. His father, renowned art dealer Hei Honglu, had established a successful business, and, growing up, young Hei learned to appreciate beautiful things. Although he had never considered art dealing as a career, he began apprenticing with his father at age nineteen, often accompanying him on business trips to London and New York with his American counterpart, Robert H. Ellsworth. As time went on, he would take on more responsibility and eventually inherit the family business.
黑国强是「典亚艺博」、「水墨艺博」两大亚洲知名 艺博会创办人,从小在父亲、也是著名艺术商人黑 洪禄的耳濡目染下对古董萌生兴趣。纵使他从未幻 想过以古董收藏作为事业,但他仍勇于尝试,在 19 岁时加入家族营运。当时他跟随父亲及美国古 董商安思远一起前往伦敦、纽约等地出差,学习行 业相关知识。
BY KATE NICHOLSON
Inspired by the galleries and art fairs he had visited abroad, Hei opened his namesake gallery on Hollywood Road in 1999. As a stark departure from local antique and art sales operations at the time, he says, “it was more twenty-first century – a crossover, with white walls, enough lighting, some decorative not-for-sale pieces on the desk, and modern and contemporary Chinese paintings.”
His desire to both tap into what he saw as a burgeoning international interest in Chinese art and promote the industry at home led Hei to found Fine Art Asia in 2006 as a platform for Chinese and Western cultural exchange. Today it attracts the biggest names in art dealing and focuses on everything from Chinese antiques to metaverse art. In 2015, Hei went on to launch Ink Asia, a showcase for the best in contemporary ink painting.
“When we started the fair again last year, we discovered industry trends had changed,” Hei says of the post-pandemic climate.
“There was a focus on maximum crossover, being open to all possibilities, and embracing everything.” Indeed, the 2024 edition, set to run from October 4 to 7 at the HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, will emphasize this convergence. Exquisite antiques, art, and design as well as Japanese and Chinese crafts, ink art, and photography will all be on show alongside workshops, talks, and academic events.
“I’m not the kind of person who sits around for a couple of years doing nothing,” says Hei. “I seek out challenges – a new element to explore, something different – and then merge these into what we’ve always done.”
受到海外画廊和艺博会的启发, 黑国强在 1999 年于香港荷李活道开设 自己的同名画廊。他表示:「那是一个 二十一世纪风格的画廊,结合跨界元素,有白墙、 足够的灯光,桌上摆设不供出售的装饰品,展出现 代和当代中国绘画作品。」当时这间艺廊的营运模 式,和当地大部分的古董店和艺术品专卖店大为不 同。
黑国强在把中国艺术推向国际的同时,也希 望这个产业能在中国蓬勃发展,于是在 2006 年创 办了「典亚艺博」,作为中西文化交流的平台。这 个博览会如今吸引了顶尖的艺术品经销商参与,项 目涵盖中国艺术到元宇宙艺术等各种作品;他更于 2015 年创办全球首个专注于当代水墨艺术的「水 墨艺博」。
针对疫情后的产业生态,黑国强说:「去年我 们重新举办这个活动时,发现整个产业的趋势已经 大大改变了。现在大家注重跨界融合,对各种可能 性保持开放态度,全面拥抱各种新元素。」事实上, 将于 2024 年 10 月 4 日至 7 日在香港会展举行的 「典亚艺博」,便以这种跨界融合的概念为核心概念。 除了展出精致的古董、艺术品和设计作品,以及来 自日本、中国等地的手工艺品、水墨画与摄影作品 之外,届时活动现场也开设各式工作坊、讲座和学 术活动。黑国强说:「我不是那种可以安份几年不 做事的人。我会主动寻求新挑战,探索新元素、尝 试与过去不同的事物,然后将这些新事物融入我们 一直以来推动的事情当中。」
MOVERS & SHAKERS
博古融今
SAMANTHA SIN cloud kingdom | TK | 139
TK talks about what lies ahead for wine in Asia with Master of Wine Richard Hemming, who draws on extensive experience in England and Australia and at private wine club 67 Pall Mall Singapore.
致敬未来 140 | TK | CLOUD KINGDOM
decanting the future
THE NARRATIVE OF WINE in Asia represents a transformation akin to the aging of a fine Bordeaux: gradual, complex, and rewarding. As Richard Hemming MW points out, the region’s shift in preference from Bordeaux to Burgundy mirrors global trends and speaks volumes about Asia’s maturing wine culture. “Burgundy is still number one, and that’s true everywhere,” he says.
But in the vineyards of Piedmont, the nebbiolo grape emerges as a formidable contender, poised to rival the acclaim of Burgundy’s finest. The soul of Barolo and Barbaresco, this varietal has captivated consumers and hints at the next chapter in Asia’s wine story.
Hemming also notes the success story of English sparkling wine: “It’s growing quickly in Asia but has yet to reach the level of normal from a European perspective. And it’s interesting that rosé is not the big trend that it has become in France, where they drink more rosé now than red or white.”
葡萄酒在亚洲的发展历程,就像波尔多葡萄酒的陈酿 过程:渐进、复杂,能让酿酒师获得无比成就感。正 如 Richard 所说,亚洲地区对葡萄酒的偏好从波尔多 转向勃根地,这点不仅反映出全球趋势,也充分说明 亚洲葡萄酒文化越趋成熟。他说:「勃根地依然稳坐宝 座,在任何地区都是如此。」
不过在 Piedmont 皮埃蒙特的葡萄园里,内比奥 罗(nebbiolo)葡萄成为强劲的竞争对手,有望与勃 根地顶级葡萄酒媲美。这个葡萄品种同时具有巴罗洛 (Barolo)和巴巴莱斯科(Barbaresco)葡萄的精髓, 吸引众多消费者,同时也揭示亚洲葡萄酒前景的下一 个篇章。
BY ELEANOR HAWKINS
The reopening of China’s market to Australian wines brings cautious optimism among producers, not forgetting past challenges and, as Hemming points out, the current “massive production problem” of oversupply, compounded by a significant decline in Chinese wine consumption partly due to health concerns and a shift among younger consumers away from alcohol.
Reflecting Asia’s growing environmental consciousness, sustainability and organic practices are gaining ground. “Winemakers are stepping up,” Hemming notes. Among these trends is biodynamic winemaking, rooted in methods that align closely with the natural world.
Hemming believes that wines can be judged on the two fundamentals of typicality and quality. Quality comprises universally recognized elements of balance, length, intensity, and complexity. But, for Hemming, the concept of typicality is far more intriguing, “because typicality says that wine should represent its grape variety and its origin in a way that is faithful to our agreed understanding on what that should be.” The intersection of typicality and quality, he says, encapsulates wine’s excellence, with each bottle telling the story of its terroir and vintage and engaging the drinker in a unique journey from vine to glass.
Recently in Hong Kong, 67 Pall Mall introduced its En Primeur virtual membership, which facilitates access to exclusive wine events and expert-led sessions, broadening the horizons of wine appreciation without the constraints of a physical venue. By opening doors to these experiences, 67 Pall Mall fosters a sophisticated wine community and brings people together in new and exciting ways.
Richard 还提到英国气泡酒的成功故 事:「气泡酒在亚洲发展迅速,但尚未达 到欧洲的水平。有趣的是,桃红葡萄酒 并没有像在法国那样蔚为流行,法国人 现在喝桃红葡萄酒的量,已经远超过红 葡萄酒或白葡萄酒。」
中国市场重新开放澳洲葡萄酒,生产商在谨慎观 望的同时也越来越乐观,但他们并没有忘记过去的挑 战。正如 Richard 所说,目前的生产问题是供过于求, 而中国人对健康问题日益关注,以及年轻消费者屏弃 酒精饮品的现象,又让葡萄酒消费量大幅下降,使「供 过于求」的问题更加恶化。
亚洲地区民众的环保意识与日俱增,可持续发展 及有机酿造也慢慢蔚为主流。Richard 表示:「酿酒师 都在往可持续的方向改进革新。」生物动力酿酒法就是 其中一项趋势,这种做法的核心精神是与自然界紧密 结合。
Richard 认为,葡萄酒可以根据特征及品质这两 个基本要素来评判。品质当中包括了平衡、余韵、浓 郁度、复杂度等众所公认的要素。但是对他来说,特 征这个概念更耐人寻味。「因为特征代表葡萄酒应该要 能呈现其葡萄品种及原产地,同时也要符合我们对葡 萄品种及原产地认知的共识。」Richard 说,特征与品 质的交集就能体现出一瓶葡萄酒的过人之处。每瓶葡 萄酒都在讲述其风土及年份的故事,让品酒者能够亲 身体验那段从葡萄藤到酒杯的独特旅程。
最近,香港 67 Pall Mall 推出了 En Primeur 会藉, 方便会员参加限定葡萄酒活动和由专家开设的大师班, 不受实体场地的限制,拓宽葡萄酒鉴赏的视野。通过 打开这些体验的大门,67 Pall Mall 建立了一个精致的 葡萄酒社区,并以崭新和令人兴奋的方式将葡萄酒爱 好者们聚集在一起。
WINE MASTER
C.K. MAN cloud kingdom | TK | 141
The classic martini is Leo’s favorite. 经典的马丁尼是 Leo最钟爱的调酒。
摇响成就
shaken with success
Shining a spotlight on nostalgic Hong Kong flavors, Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social at Cordis, Hong Kong, puts an imaginative new spin on classic cocktails.
PRESENTED
BY CORDIS, HONG KONG
142 | TK | CLOUD KINGDOM
Director of Beverage of Cordis, Hong Kong, Leo Ko 香港康德思酒店酒务部总监Leo Ko
Came to Connect, the cocktail that earned Leo the title of World
of the Year at the IBA World
Leo以Came to Connect赢得IBA世界鸡尾酒大赛2023年度世界调酒师殊荣。
THE MAKING OF A MEMORABLE drinking experience doesn’t begin and end with the perfect sip. In fact, as Director of Beverage Leo Ko at Cordis, Hong Kong, reveals, it commences the moment one steps into a bar and encounters the atmosphere, the thoughtfully designed space, and the carefully curated glassware.
Heading the mixology program at Alibi - Wine Dine Be Social, the modern bar nestled on the fifth floor of the sleek five-star hotel, Ko has revitalized the cocktail scene in the Mong Kok neighborhood since the venue opened its doors ten years ago. The bar strikes the perfect balance between a relaxing retreat and a buzzy hangout in the heart of the city.
一场难忘的酒馔体验,并非始于酒杯,也非终 于唇齿之间。事实上,正如香港康得思酒店酒 务部总监高尔澳 (Leo Ko) 所言,体验的起点 从踏进酒吧那一瞬间就开始了 不论是感受 空间设计与氛围的精巧,还是玻璃器皿细腻的 手感,都是体验的一部分。
BY LORRIA SAHMET • PHOTOGRAPHY
BY
DAVID HARTUNG
While Ko’s bespoke beverage program has found many fans, his warm hospitality and personal connection with guests set the Alibi experience apart. Earlier menus began with cocktails simply shaken on demand according to customers’ moods and preferences, drinks which are still available today by request. “Someone once came in asking for something nutty but spirit-forward, bitter and sweet but not fruity,” Ko recalls. “I made a twist on the Godfather, and the guest cried for fifteen minutes because it reminded her of her late father.”
It’s these moments that have kept Ko motivated to reinvent classics and experiment with flavors. Finding constant inspiration from his surroundings – “It can even be a car tire,” he laughs – Ko has set ambitious goals in presenting Hong Kong cocktails on an international stage.
隐身于五星级酒店五楼的现 代风格酒吧 Alibi - Wine Dine Be Social 由 Leo 带领,自十年前开业 以来便为旺角的酒吧文化带来崭 新风貌。这间酒吧在大城市的闹 静之间取得完美平衡,提供一处 既能小憩,也能欢聚的场所。
Alibi 的独特之处,不只在于 Leo 深获大 家喜爱的招牌调酒作品,也是源于他亲切的款 客态度及与客人建立的情感连结。早期提供的 酒品主要根据客人的心情与喜好调制,这种客 制化服务至今依然提供。Leo 回忆说:「曾经 有位客人希望可以喝到带有坚果风味、酒感明 显,苦甜适中但不带果香调的调酒。当时我为 她制作了一杯特调的教父调酒,结果那位客人 深受感动,足足哭了十五分钟。她说这款调酒 让她想起已故的父亲。」
Bartender
Cocktail Championship 2023
cloud kingdom | TK | 143
It’s something he’s managed to achieve with his historic win as the city’s first recipient of the World Bartender of the Year award at the IBA World Cocktail Championship 2023. “In the first five minutes I felt pure joy,” he explains. “I was so happy. But then I realized the responsibility and pressure that came with the title. I felt so lucky but knew I had to see this as an opportunity too.”
His winning concoction, Came to Connect, is a meaningful one, referencing the classic Hong Kong yuenyeung that blends coffee and tea. Combining coffee powder – in a nod to the coffee culture in Italy where the competition was held – with Campari-infused Earl Grey tea, Cinzano Vermouth Bianco, Fabbri gin, Monin Vanilla Syrup, and passion fruit air over the top, it demonstrates Ko’s expertise as both a Japanese- and Western-trained mixologist and serves as an ode to Hong Kong’s vibrant culinary scene.
Classic Hong Kong flavors continue to serve as a never-ending resource for Ko, who is currently experimenting with buttery and flaky Chinese pastries, including pineapple bun and traditional
正是这些感动的时刻,给予 Leo 不断重塑经 典、实验新风味的动力。他可以从任何事物获得灵 感,他笑着说:「就连汽车轮胎也行。」Leo 的理想 是将香港鸡尾酒推向国际舞台,而他在 2023 年 IBA 世界鸡尾酒大赛上实现了这个目标 他在当年成 为了首位获得「年度世界调酒师」殊荣的香港调酒 师。他说:「得奖的前五分钟我感到纯然的喜悦 我真的太高兴了。但随后我就意识到这个头衔带来 的责任和压力。我觉得自己很幸运,但也明白自己 必须把握随之而来的机会。」
Leo 的得奖作品「Came to Connect」,创作灵 感来自于香港经典的饮品「鸳鸯」,使用咖啡粉(向 比赛举办的国家意大利的咖啡文化致敬)、金巴利 伯爵茶、琴夏洛白香苦艾酒、Fabbri 琴酒、Monin 香草糖浆,并以百香果香气点缀,不只展现他身兼 日式与西式调酒师的专业背景,同时也向香港精彩 纷陈的美食文化致敬。
PRESENTED BY CORDIS, HONG KONG 144 | TK | cloud kingdom
Coco Is Bleeding, the new Campari-infused creation at Red Corner, Alibi –Wine Dine Be Social. 全新之作Coco Is Bleeding 以金巴利为基酒,是 Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social Red Corner的创意调酒。
red bean bun. He also honors his beginnings in Japanese mixology by showcasing local ingredients like honey while developing his version of the popular watercress honey drink. “There’s no strict rules in Hong Kong cocktails,” Ko explains. “It’s more about style, so I want to create contrast in flavors but still present them in an elegant way. Hong Kong is very city-based, and I would like to show that element too.”
Although Ko’s personal favorite, one he has learned to love along his journey, is always and forever the classic martini, he often recommends a novel cocktail like Coco is Bleeding to visiting guests. It’s a refreshing mix of Campari, vermouth, mango, coconut, and lychee caviar served in a coconut shell to emphasize the importance of each ingredient. “Hong Kong doesn’t like to see anything go to waste,” he says, “and this drink reminds us that each part of the fruit has a purpose. You just need to be imaginative in using them. Mixology, like any new skill, takes time and a lot of self-reflection to improve. The most important part is that you never stop being afraid of making mistakes.”
除了鸳鸯外,Leo 目前也尝试以菠萝包、豆 沙包等经典港式点心发想创意调酒。为了展露他 的日式调酒精神,他也利用蜂蜜等在地食材,调 制他个人版本的蜂蜜芹菜饮品。Leo 说:「港式鸡 尾酒其实没有太多规则,重点在于风格,所以我 想要创造风味的对比,但呈现上又不失大方优雅。 香港是个大都会,我希望透过调酒展现这项特色。」
虽然 Leo 本身最钟爱、也是他在调酒生涯中 不断钻研的调酒,绝非经典的马丁尼莫属,但他 也经常向客人推荐「Coco is Bleeding」等创新的 调酒。这款风味清爽的调酒使用了金巴利、香艾酒、 芒果、椰子、荔枝鱼子酱,并以椰子壳作为容器, 以突显每一种食材的重要性。他说:「香港人向来 重视食材,只要发挥创意,水果的每一部分都有 其用途,这就是这款调酒想传达的讯息。调酒就 像新技能,需要长时间反覆练习才能精进。最重 要的是,不要害怕犯错。」
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经典琴酒马丁尼 146 | TK | CLOUD KINGDOM
Classic gin martini
珍秘草本
herbal secrets
Swiss producers of celebrated secret-recipe spirits showcase the wondrous qualities of alpine herbs.
DEEP IN THE VAULTS of a Swiss bank lies an unexpected treasure: the original recipe for Franzini American Bitter, an amaro first concocted in 1890 by Milanese pharmacist Romeo Franzini. Over the past century, ownership of the herbal liqueur has changed hands, and today, it rests with Valsangiacomo, a sixth-generation Swiss family winery located in Mendrisio, a mere fifty kilometers from the birthplace of Franzini American Bitter. With scrupulous care, the winery faithfully follows the century-old formula to ensure that each batch is crafted to perfection.
BY MAMIE CHEN
In the northeast canton of Appenzell, the story of tradition and secrecy continues with Appenzeller Alpenbitter AG This family-run business guards its own venerable recipe, dating back to 1902, with only two members of the founding family entrusted with its exact details. Within the company’s tightly controlled Kräuterkammer, or herb chamber, are stored forty-two herbs, flowers, roots, and spices that contribute to renowned Appenzeller Alpenbitter’s distinctive flavor and aroma. To ensure the quality of its ingredients, the company works closely with local farming families to cultivate a selection of alpine botanicals that include lemon balm, lavender, peppermint, and wormwood. Although separated by geographical distance, both brands share a deep connection to the ancient tradition of crafting bittersweet herbal elixirs that is rooted in the practices of medieval monks and apothecaries. And both follow artisanal approaches that emphasize all-natural ingredients, many of which are sourced from the Swiss alpine landscape. The careful selection and preparation of botanical elements, along with closely guarded production techniques, result in unique flavor profiles that have stood the test of time.
瑞士某银行金库深处藏着一件价值惊人的珍 宝 – – 1890 年由米兰药剂师 Romeo Franzini 首创的 Amaro 利口酒,也就是 Franzini American Bitter 的古老配方。百年来,这 种草本利口酒的所有权易主多次,现今由传 承至第六代的瑞士家族酒庄 Valsangiacomo 掌管。 这间酒庄位于门德里西 奥(Mendrisio),这座城镇距离 Franzini American Bitter 的发源 地仅 50 公里。他们严格按照百 年传统,精心酿造每一批利口酒, 确保品质尽臻完美。
而在瑞士东北部的阿彭策 尔(Appenzell),传统与神秘的故事随着 Appenzeller Alpenbitter AG 薪火相传至今。
这间家族企业拥有自 1902 年流传下来的珍 稀配方,仅有两名家族的创始成员知晓配方 的细节。Appenzeller Alpenbitter 独特的香 气和风味来自 42 种草药、花朵、香料,这 些原料都被严格管控在公司的草药室内。公 司更与当地农户紧密合作,培育香蜂叶、薰 衣草、薄荷、艾草等高山植物,确保酿酒的 原料品质优良。
尽管地理位置疏离,这两大草本利口 酒品牌却仍以源于中世纪修道士和药剂师的 古老传统为核心,坚持使用精心筛选和处理 的瑞士高山纯天然原料,跟随严谨的酿酒工
PRESENTED BY ADMELIORA GROUP AG
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN
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Coffee Negroni
咖啡内格罗尼
Gin 27’s juniper notes and fruity, peppery character mingle with Franzini American Bitter’s cinnamon, citrus fruits, and sassafras aromas, creating an approachable yet complex base. Cynar adds a robust backbone, while a bar spoon of coffee liqueur contributes depth and a touch of sweetness. Stirred and strained over a large ice cube and garnished with an orange twist, this innovative creation by John Nugent of The Diplomat is a perfect introduction to the world of Negronis.
Gin 27 的杜松香气与果香、胡椒调性,与 Franzini American Bitter 的肉桂、柑橘和木质 调混合,交织出的层次丰富而顺口;Cynar 利 口酒赋予调酒稳固的基底,搭配些许咖啡利 口酒增添了层次和甜味。最后在大冰块上搅 拌、过滤,饰以香橙作结,这款由香港酒吧 The Diplomat 调酒师 John Nugent 推出的创 新作品,正是您初探内格罗尼世界的首选。
Valsangiacomo’s Franzini American Bitter undergoes a meticulous four-month process using eleven natural components. The result is a smooth, classic, 1920s-style aperitif that can stand alone or elevate cocktails with its complexity. Similarly, Appenzeller Alpenbitter AG harnesses alpine herbs, including those cultivated in collaboration with local farming families, to create their signature liqueur.
Building on their herbal expertise, Appenzeller Alpenbitter AG has also ventured into the world of gin, collaborating with three renowned Zurich bartenders to develop a collection of Swiss gins with distinctive alpine influences. Gin 27 Original Appenzeller Dry Gin reveals an interplay of juniper, oranges, and spice aromas that gives the distillate a refreshingly zesty character. The newest expression, Gin 27 Woodfire, uses locally sourced ingredients, including elderberry and fir shoots handpicked from the company’s
艺。本著全方位的极致追求,才造就永恒不衰的 独特风味。
Valsangiacomo 出品的 Franzini American Bitter,集合 11 种天然本草成分,历经四个月悉 心酝酿,造就了这款 1920 年代风格的滑顺开胃酒, 独饮或调酒皆宜;Appenzeller Alpenbitter AG 则 使用与当地农家合作培育的高山草药,酝酿出经 典利口酒的独特风味。
凭借丰富的草本利口酒酿造经验, Appenzeller Alpenbitter AG 更跨足琴酒领域, 并与三位知名的苏黎世调酒师携手,打造一系 列带有高山特色的瑞士琴酒。 Gin 27 Original
Appenzeller Dry Gin 交织杜松、橙香和香料气息, 赋予蒸馏酒辛辣却清爽的性格。最新力作 Gin 27
PRESENTED BY ADMELIORA GROUP AG
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Martinez
Martinez 特调
A classic cocktail known for its potency, the Martinez gets a delightful twist in this rendition by John Nugent. By featuring Gin 27 Woodfire, with its lower ABV and warming baking spice notes, the drink becomes more approachable and less boozy than its traditional counterpart. The gin’s autumnal charm is complemented by the sweetness of vermouth and the dry, nutty undertones of Manzanilla sherry, while a bar spoon of maraschino liqueur adds a familiar touch, rounding out the flavors. Stirred and strained into a Nick & Nora glass and garnished with an orange twist, this Martinez variation is perfect for those looking to explore gin cocktails in the cooler months without the intensity of the original.
以强烈酒感闻名的经典调酒 Martinez,在 John Nugent 的诠释下展现全新风采。这款调 酒使用酒精浓度较低、带有烤香料气味的 Gin 27 Woodfire,酒感比经典款轻盈、更好入 口。这款琴酒的秋日韵味由苦艾酒的甘甜和 Manzanilla 雪莉酒的坚果调性堆砌而成,再 以些许黑樱桃香甜酒画龙点睛。若天气转凉 想来点琴酒调酒,这款使用 Nick & Nora 酒杯 盛装、以柳橙点缀的 Martinez 特调,绝对是 您的不二之选。
own forest in Appenzell, to suggest the essential character of a Swiss mountainside.
To celebrate these two storied brands, John Nugent, bartender and cofounder of award-winning Hong Kong bar The Diplomat, has created an inventive take on the classic coffee Negroni and a fresh variation on the martini’s precursor, the Martinez. Each sip of either cocktail encapsulates the essence of Swiss alpine spirits – tradition, innovation, and a touch of mystery.
Woodfire 使用该公司自有林地手采的接骨木、 冷山芽尖,展现纯正的瑞士高山风情。 为庆祝这两支酒款的交会,香港大奖酒吧 The Diplomat 调酒师暨创办人 John Nugent 推 出全新咖啡内格罗尼,并对马丁内兹 (Martinez) 现代馬丁尼的前身创新改良。每一口鸡尾酒 仿佛都浓缩了瑞士高山烈酒的精髓 – – 经典风味 带有新意,并散发着一丝神秘色彩。
The featured spirits are available from Admeliora Group AG, an exporter of premium Swiss F&B brands. To order, please contact the company at info@admeliora-group.ch, and be sure to visit its exhibit at the FHC trade show, November 12–14, in Shanghai.
如欲订购相关烈酒,可电邮至Admeliora Group AG邮箱: info@admeliora-group.ch。 Admeliora Group AG将參加2024年11月12日至14日在上海举办的FHC国际食品及饮料展,欢迎莅临参观展位。
PRESENTED BY ADMELIORA GROUP AG
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BEAUTIFUL ISLAND
One&Only Reethi Rah takes vacationing in the Maldives to new levels of luxury.
BY ELAINE WONG
美丽逸岛
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WAKING TO THE RHYTHM of incoming waves and the songs of exotic birds, sensing the tropical caress of Indian Ocean breezes, guests at One&Only Reethi Rah take a few steps across secluded white sands into welcoming turquoise waters. A lazy hammock in the shade as the sun rises high above an endless horizon makes an ideal spot for taking in the tranquility of a Maldivian morning in this breathtaking archipelago nation.
Reethi Rah, meaning “beautiful island” in the Dhivehi
随着海浪拍打的节奏、异国鸟禽的鸣叫声一同苏醒,感受着 印度洋微风带来的热带风情,One&Only Reethi Rah 瑞提拉
唯逸岛酒店的宾客只要走几步就能穿过幽静的白色沙滩,一 脚踩进绿松石色的海水之中。宾客能够在马尔代夫这个令人 叹为观止的群岛,慵懒地躺在树荫下的吊床上,欣赏太阳从 一望无际的地平线上升起,享受宁静的早晨。
Reethi Rah 在马尔代夫的迪维希语中意为「美丽的岛 屿」,是 One&Only 度假村在全球各地精挑细选的其中一个 未受开发破坏的自然宝地。近二十年来,One&Only Reethi
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Guests may arise to nature’s rhythms with yoga, tai chi, or meditation. 宾客可以透过瑜珈、太极拳或冥想来感受大自然的节奏。
language of the Maldives, is among the unspoiled destinations across the globe that have been hand-picked by One&Only Resorts to join its stunning collection. For nearly two decades, One&Only Reethi Rah has been an exclusive leisure destination attracting international elites to return again and again to its sparkling pools and pristine beaches surrounded by crystal seas and a shimmering string of coral atolls.
The spectacular resort features ninety-eight beachfront villas with unfettered ocean access and thirty-two more perched above the blue lagoons. Accommodations and amenities thoughtfully planned by Jean Michel Gathy provide unmatched privacy. “The villas were designed to be architecturally simple,” says Gathy. “This is coupled with dramatic interiors with an almost flamboyant feeling of space, height, and flair.” Every elegant villa is thatched by local craftsmen and features natural materials like coconut shell, sea grass, silk, and mahogany.
Award-winning One&Only Spa, a peaceful retreat set in manicured gardens, offers a holistic program of treatments that promote beauty, fitness, and wellness. Rejuvenating therapies from East and West combine ancient rituals with modern-day research.
Guests at One&Only Reethi Rah may choose from a myriad of engaging activities. Club One is the hub for everything from the rockclimbing wall and tennis courts to the Artist Studio and a water sports center. Biking, beach volleyball, badminton, table tennis, and board games are available to all, and the younger set can enjoy the KidsOnly
Rah 瑞提拉唯逸岛酒店一直是全球无可比拟的休 闲度假胜地,吸引各国宾客一再回到这个地方, 享受纯净的海滩、波光粼粼的泳池、晶莹剔透的 大海和连串闪闪发光的珊瑚环礁。
这座壮观的度假村拥有九十八栋海滨别墅, 可以畅快无阻直通大海,另有三十二栋别墅座落 在蔚蓝的泻湖上。Jean Michel Gathy 精心规划的 住宿和设施提供无与伦比的隐密性。Jean 表示: 「别墅的建筑设计以简洁为主。」而内部的空间、 高度和装饰卻非常引人注目。每栋优雅的别墅都 由当地工匠铺设茅草,并采用椰子壳、海草、丝 绸和红木等天然材料。
屡获殊荣的 One&Only 水疗中心座落在精心 打理的花园中,提供美容、健身及健康护理等全 面服务。古老的仪式、现代科学研究,也完美结 合在东西並融的疗愈放松療程之中。
One&Only Reethi Rah 瑞提拉唯逸岛酒店的 宾客能选择各式各样丰富的休闲活动。Club One 俱乐部集合了攀岩墙、网球场、艺术家工作室、 水上运动中心等各种活动。自行车、沙滩排球、 羽毛球、乒乓球和桌上游戏应有尽有,年纪小的 宾客则可以参加「KidsOnly」和「One Tribe」等 激发想像力的趣味行程。而令人期待的浮潜之旅
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← Private villas offer a feeling of space, height, and flair.
別墅展现挑 高的空间感 和设计感。
↓ Lush gardens surround sparkling pools.
郁郁葱葱的花园 包围着波光粼 粼的游泳池。
更带上宾客一起揭开印度洋的神秘面纱,水肺潜水体 验也可让大家尽情探索水下生物世界的丰富多采。
度假村内各具特色的餐饮选择致力呈现马尔代 夫当地以至全球的创意料理,这些菜肴的灵感都来自 当地最优质的海鲜及有机农产品。
在隐蔽的烛光花园中,蔬食餐厅 Botanica 提供 天然的「从农场到餐桌」美食,才华洋溢的厨师运用 新鲜的珍稀食材烹调佳肴,其中许多也是在当地现场 采摘。宾客可以坐在如诗如画的花园厨房之间,或 在 Orchid House 当中让新鲜盛开的花朵环绕四周。
Botanica 的琴酒酒吧提供三十四种精选琴酒,与来自 厨师花园的香草、水果和各式风味完美搭配。
环境壮观的 Reethi 餐厅提供全天候用餐服务, 海天一色的景色,从早到晚变化无穷。 到了傍晚,这 里还提供多种用餐体验:Earth 提供精致的亚洲菜肴, 以及来自陆地、农场和海洋的碳烧风味;而 Hoshi 餐 厅就将日本料理的艺术美味带到马尔代夫。
Fanditha 是一家充满异国情调的海滩餐厅,供应 中东菜肴;Rabarbaro 俯瞰最具标志性的无边界泳池, 午餐和晚餐时段提供轻松休闲的意大利美食。The Beach Club 时尚沙滩餐厅则提供新鲜沙拉、海鲜、烧 烤,以及特色调酒、果汁及无酒精鸡尾酒。
如想要享受极致私密的用餐体验,请前往 The Treehouse !这是一个位于树冠高处的木屋秘密空间, 餐厅提供七道菜套餐,而随伴餐点的,则是最原始的 海洋日落及林间自然。
ISLAND
↑ A table awaits a private sandbank dinner for two.
在沙洲上享用私 人的二人晚宴。
← Enjoy the spectacular view of the ocean when having breakfast.
享用早餐时可欣 赏壮丽海景。
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and One Tribe programs designed to spark imagination. The secrets of the Indian Ocean are revealed on exhilarating snorkeling trips, and scuba excursions explore colorful underwater life.
The resort’s array of distinctive dining options present creative Maldivian and international cuisines inspired by the finest local seafood and fresh organic produce.
Botanica serves natural “farm-to-fork” and plant-based cuisine in a hidden, candle-lit garden. Talented chefs showcase fresh and rare ingredients, many harvested on-site. Guests may sit in the idyllic potager or surrounded by blooms in the Orchid House. Botanica’s Gin Bar offers thirtyfour selections, all perfectly paired with herbs, fruits, and flavors from the Chef’s Garden.
Reethi, for all-day dining, features spectacular settings and the everchanging scenery of sky and sea. By night, it offers two dining experiences: Earth presents exquisitely executed pan-Asian dishes and charcoal-grilled flavors from land, farm, and sea; Hoshi brings the artistry of Japanese cuisine to the Maldives.
Fanditha is an exotic beach spot specializing in Middle Eastern food, and Rabarbaro, overlooking the iconic infinity pool, serves casual Italian fare for lunch and dinner. Stylish feet-in-the-sand dining at The Beach Club offers fresh salads, seafood, and grills, as well as delicious cocktails, juices, and mocktails.
For the ultimate in intimate dining, it’s the Treehouse, a timber sanctuary high in the canopy that presents a seven-course menu accompanied by ocean sunsets and a serenade of forest sounds.
位在森林树冠上,提供私密的用餐体验。 COURTESY OF ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH (3) cloud kingdom | TK | 157
The Treehouse offers intimate dining atop the forest canopy. The Treehouse
8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA
5 Italian
1031, 1/F, Galaxy Macau™ Integrated Resort, Cotai, Macau
澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城1 楼,1031
Lunch: Sat: 12:00-14:30
Dinner: Tue-Sat: 18:00-22:30
q +853 8886 2169
A Smart casual
Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 杜卡斯餐厅
5 French
Level 3, Morpheus, City of Dreams, Estr. Do Istmo, Macau
澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地摩珀斯3楼
Thu-Sun: 18:00-21:30
q +853 8868 3432
A Smart elegant
Andaz Kitchen 安达仕厨荟
5 Chinese, Portuguese, Western, Southeast Asian
Level 6, North Tower, Andaz Macau, Galaxy Macau™ Integrated Resort, Cotai, Macau
澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城澳门安 达仕酒店北翼大楼6楼
Breakfast buffet: 6:30-10:30
Brunch: 11:30-14:30 (weekends only)
Lunch: 12:00-14:30
Dinner: 18:00-22:30 q +853 8883 2221
Blossom Palaces 花悦庭
5 Beijing and Huaiyang cuisines
1015, 1/F, Galaxy Macau™ Integrated Resort, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城1楼1015
Lunch: 11:30-15:00
Dinner: 18:00-22:30
Closed on Wednesdays q +853 8886 2140
A Smart casual
Deja Vu 泊诗南
5 French
502, 5/F, No.22, Zhongshan Road East, Huangpu District, Shanghai 上海黄浦区中山东二路22号5楼
Lunch: 11:30-13:30
Dinner: 17:30-23:30 q +86 18221680502
The Diplomat
5 Bar
LG/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong
香港中环砵甸乍街45号H Code高座LG楼 18:00-02:00
Closed on Sundays q +852 3619 0302
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Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social
5 Bar
Level 5, Cordis, Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Hong Kong
香港九龙旺角上海街555号康
得思酒店5楼
Sun- Thur: 11:30-01:00 Fri, Sat & public holiday eve: 11:30-02:00
q +852 3552 3231
Don Alfonso 1890 当奥丰素1890
5 Italian
Level 3, Palazzo Versace Macau, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, Rua do Tiro, Cotai, Macau
澳门路氹射击路澳门上葡京综合度假村澳门 范思哲豪华酒店大楼三楼
Lunch: Fri-Sun: 12:00-15:00
Dinner: Tue-Sun: 18:00-22:30
q +853 8881 1390
A Smart casual
The Lobby Lounge 大堂酒廊
5 Lounge
Lobby Floor, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong
香港九龙梳士巴利道18号香港丽晶酒店大堂
10:00-24:00
q +852 2313 2313
A Smart casual
Terrazza 庭园意大利餐厅
5 Italian 2001, 2/F, Galaxy Macau™ Integrated Resort, Cotai, Macau
澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城2楼 2001
18:00-22:00
q +853 8883 2221
A Smart casual
Zi Yat Heen 紫逸轩
5 Cantonese
Lobby level, Four Seasons Hotel Macao, Estrada Da Baía De N. Senhora Da Esperança, S/N, Taipa, Macau
澳门氹仔望德堂圣母湾大马路澳门四季酒店 大堂
Lunch: Mon-Sat: 12:00-14:30 Sun: 11:30-15:00
Dinner: 18:00-22:30
q +853 2881 8818
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