Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.
SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室 HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室
MACAU: Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde, Rés-do-chão C, Macau • 澳门和隆街 2 号晶品艺楹地面 C 座
Mark Hammons
FOUNDER & PUBLISHER
创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com
Joey Cheang DEPUTY PUBLISHER
副出版人 joey@tasting-kitchen.com
Mamie Chen
Marilyn Burkley
Robert Burkley
Zita Wan SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑
Vivian Pun
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER
数字媒体经理
Victoria Lei
Odelia Kuok
PROJECT MANAGER 项目经理
David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监
J. Carl Kerkman, MFA
IMAGE EDITOR
图像编辑
Kate Nicholson
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
ART AND DESIGN
特约编辑－艺术设计专栏
Annabel Jackson
Nicole Slater
Lucy Morgan
John Ng
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
特約作家
The charming town of Saint-Émilion in Bordeaux, France, is home to Château Pavie, a renowned Premier Grand Cru Classé A winery. 法国波尔多迷人的圣埃美隆小镇是柏菲酒庄的所 在地，这里出产享誉世界的顶级酒庄A级葡萄酒。 ON THE COVER Photography by David Hartung
Alicia Beebe
ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监
Richard Lee
SENIOR BUSINESS CONSULTANT 高级业务顾问
Phoebe Yeung
SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR 高级客戶总监
Lucy Morgan
BUREAU CHIEF, PARIS
巴黎区编辑主管
Elaine Wong CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER 营销总监 elaine@tasting-kitchen.com
John Ng
WINE & SPIRITS DIRECTOR
葡萄酒及烈酒总监
Eleanor Hawkins
REGIONAL EVENTS DIRECTOR 区域活动策划总监
Jaakko Sorsa OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com
Welcome to TK59, Noble Vendange Harvest time in Saint-Émilion is not merely an act of collection – it is a ritual, a symphony of patience, precision, and poetic transformation. The vines of Château Pavie, like calligraphic strokes on the limestone plateau, yield their fruit only when the season deems them ready, and never a moment sooner. This is the essence of vendange, the noble act of gathering nature’s gifts at their peak, a philosophy that extends beyond viticulture into the fabric of French gastronomy and hospitality.
In this issue of Tasting Kitchen, we explore the velvet richness of France – its vineyards and vintners, its chefs and châteaux, its elegance and extravagance. From the hallowed cellars of SaintÉmilion to the gilded salons of Paris, we celebrate the artisans whose deft hands coax flavor and finesse from the elements. The Michelin-star chefs featured in these pages are, in their own way, vintners of another sort – blending tradition and audacity, distilling time into taste, concentrating fleeting moments of joy on the plate.
We invite you, whether delighting in Danang’s La Maison 1888, where French haute cuisine pirouettes with Vietnamese terroir, or savoring the discipline of Chef Gérald Passedat’s seafood spectacular at Le Petit Nice in Marseille, to revel in the intricate dance of technique and terroir, heritage and hedonism.
Like a fine vintage, this issue is best enjoyed slowly, allowing the stories and flavors to unfold sip by sip, page by page. Santé!
无论是在岘港的 La Maison 1888 餐厅欣赏法国高级料理与越南风土共 舞，还是在马赛的 Le Petit Nice 品尝 Gérald Passedat 主厨海鲜交响曲的旋 律，我们邀请您沉醉于技艺与风土、传 统与享乐之间的华丽舞步。
这一期犹如一瓶陈年佳酿，请细 细品味，让故事与风味缓缓展开。干杯！ 请享受悦读时光。
Founder and Publisher
beautiful food
With his lens, Robert Dash captures the hidden worlds of foods, highlighting both their resilience and their vulnerability in a changing climate.
BY KATE NICHOLSON
• ART BY ROBERT DASH
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In Hemp, a leaf is magnified 170 times, highlighting its tough structure used in textiles and building materials.
在《大麻》中，叶子被放大170倍， 突出其用于纺织和建筑 材料的坚固结构。
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A kale flower anther and pollen sit atop a macro photo of a kale leaf in an image aptly called Kale 《羽衣甘蓝》是一张羽衣甘蓝叶的微 距照片，上面可以看到花药和花粉。
In a meditation on the salmon farming industry, Salmon contrasts Chinook alevin in macro with a micro image of a salmon scale.
《鲑鱼》以宏观的奇努克鱼幼鱼与鲑 鱼鳞片的微观图像进行了对比，鼓励 大众重新对鲑鱼养殖业进行思考。
“NATURE HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY FAVORITE MUSE and inspiration,” says Robert Dash, American career science educator and the author and artist behind Food Planet Future: The Art of Turning Food and Climate Perils into Possibilities, the title of both a book and a touring exhibition. More aptly described as an image-driven journey through an unseen side of daily fare, Food Planet Future was born of what Dash says is a “lifelong interest in nature stewardship.” As climate change began impacting food nutrient values and where certain crops can be grown, he was “fascinated by the challenge to highlight these stories while at the same time accenting the beauty of the foods that were threatened.”
Food Planet Future combines scanning electron microscope imagery with macro photographs of resilient foodstuffs to create surreal photomontages with black, outer-space-like backgrounds. “Black adds a classical feeling and a sense of gravity. And seeds and other food items lend themselves to celestial metaphors.” Each photographic assemblage is complemented by journalistic and scientific citations and research summaries. The work builds on his first book, On an Acre Shy of Eternity: Micro Landscapes at the Edge, published in 2017. During a three-year period, Dash focused on “all the layers of natural beauty I could find on the three-quarters of an acre where I live.”
“I’m
「大自然是我永恒的创意源泉。」美国职业科学教育 家、艺术家及《食物星球未来：将食物与气候危机 转化为无限可能的艺术》的作者 Robert Dash 说道。
这本书及其巡回展览以《食物星球未来》为名。这 是一场由图像引导的探索，深入日常生活的秘境。
Robert 表示这一切源自他对自然的热情及对全球农 业实践的洞察。随着气候变迁改变食物的营养价值 与作物生长，他着迷于「展现这些故事背后的挑战， 并颂扬濒临绝境的食物之美」。
fascinated by connecting the dots, exploring the relationships, the unity.
A childhood spent observing tadpoles and salamanders has morphed into Dash’s deep respect for the minuscule natural world. “Small things are incredibly powerful,” he says. “Think bacteria, viruses, insects, fungal networks – we ignore them at our peril. And the minute in nature can be exceptionally beautiful, revealing forms that few have ever seen.” He refers to the hours spent observing a few millimeters of the surface of a leaf as a “hike,” one that stimulates his curiosity if not his physiology.
我热衷于连接细 节、探寻关系 和统一性。”
Robert Dash
The further Dash trekked into researching and photographing his subjects, the more he uncovered positive agricultural developments. “It was,” he says, “a revelation to see that it wasn’t all bad news.” That discovery compelled him to share his findings in an accessible, attentiongrabbing way. While a book affords a valuable opportunity to intimately investigate the contents, an exhibition, he says, “provides a dramatic, visceral experience, which is particularly impactful with large images of tiny subjects.” Asked by one gallery owner whether he cared more about art or advocacy, Dash replied, “I’m fascinated by connecting the dots, exploring the relationships, the unity.”
At Food Planet Future, most recently exhibited at Vancouver’s Beaty Biodiversity Museum, a blueberry floats above the moon-like surface of its own seed. Carrot leaves, magnified 300x, sit beside their life-size real counterparts. Avocado seed skin appears translucent, veinfilled, reminiscent of a human heart. “Awe, wonder, and imagination are some of the best tools we have for facing difficult problems,” says Dash. “Climate change and biodiversity loss are so consequential and the need for our response so urgent that it’s imperative to explore new ways to communicate these messages.”
Dash was stunned by the colors, shapes, and trichome structures found in the microscopy images of quinoa leaves, represented here in Quinoa.
光幻瓷境
poetry in porcelain
In a peaceful Tuscan villa, actor Jake Gyllenhaal fashions imaginative settings with the resplendent tableware of Ginori 1735.
A LOVELY COUNTRY HOUSE hidden in the Tuscan hills is the ancestral seat of a creative legacy. Nearly three centuries ago, Villa Ginori was the home of aristocratic entrepreneur Marquis Carlo Andrea Ginori, founder of a porcelain factory, a manifattura that bore his name.
Now the villa has opened its doors to another artist, awardwinning Hollywood actor Jake Gyllenhaal, who has joined forces with Ginori 1735 for the second chapter of an advertising campaign that celebrates this classic brand.
Gyllenhaal’s previous collaboration looked at the brand’s heritage at the site of its production. This time, he explores the elegant and welcoming surroundings of the founder’s villa.
托斯卡纳山丘深处隐匿着一座迷人的乡间别墅，这 里是创意与传统的发源地。近三个世纪前，Villa Ginori 这座别墅曾是贵族企业家侯爵 Carlo Andrea Ginori 的家，他创立了一家以自己的名字命名的瓷 器厂「manifattura」。
At the forefront of artistry, luxury, and innovation for nearly three hundred years, Ginori 1735 produces tableware, crystal ware, and cutlery. It also carries out art and hospitality projects, and its latest one sees the actor turning each room of Villa Ginori into a performance space, where the stunning tableware can take center stage.
Gyllenhaal removes dust sheets to reveal antique paintings and furniture and opens dark shutters to bring the dormant house to life. In nearly every shot of the campaign film, we catch a glimpse of pieces from the Oriente Italiano collection, their lustrous surfaces aglow in the Tuscan sunlight. Gyllenhaal sets his imagination free, filling the house with stories. He lays a table with vibrant plates and gleaming silverware, collects blooms from the garden, and roams the mansion and its grounds with his adorably scruffy dog in tow.
Jake Gyllenhaal explores Villa Ginori in the company of his adorable dog. Jake Gyllenhaal
Ginori
The stunning colors of the Oriente Italiano collection are a match for the brightest bloom, fruit or pastry. 《Oriente Italiano》系列的 绚丽色彩可与最鲜艳的花 朵、果实或糕点相媲美。
Gyllenhaal uses the villa as an elegant stage where the Oriente Italiano collection can shine.
Ginori 1735’s Oriente Italiano collection is a perfect fusion of past and present. The artisanal expertise of centuries speaks through its forms and lines, yet a touch of modernity appears in the bold colors of the glazes, adding energy to the villa’s restful rooms. A bright turquoise plate holds deep red strawberries. A platter with oranges and a stack of pink bowls embellish a marble-topped console. Catching the breeze from an open window, a diaphanous curtain moves like a sail above a scarlet teapot perched on a tower of dinner plates. Nearby Gyllenhaal relaxes with a book.
In the villa’s lush gardens, fragrant flowers add flashes of color. Boundaries between indoors and outdoors, nature and art meld, as bouquets from the garden grace the table, their vivid hues matching and contrasting with those of the vases. An afternoon tea table is laid with plates, which are piled with fresh fruits and pastries. There’s a sense of slight disarray to the stacks and piles of dishes and plates that act as incandescent surfaces in a subtle light show that receives its finishing touches from Gyllenhaal. The short film ends with an overhead view at nightfall of the table, lit by long candles, its white linen setting off the tableware’s intense colors. Sounds of church bells and chatter suggest a party out of shot. The film’s ethereal quality, its luminosity and gentle pace, serve as quiet foils to the brilliant porcelain that audaciously steals the show.
“Ginori 1735,” says Gyllenhaal, “is an invitation to engage in the beauty of creativity at the table. Each piece can transform the moments of daily life into a creative expression.”
Ordinary cardboard serves as muse for French potter Jacques Monneraud’s delightfully whimsical Carton collection.
YOU PICK UP A JUG seemingly made from corrugated cardboard and, to your amazement, pour water from it into a cup crafted from like materials. Nothing warps or gets soggy, because they’re made in fact from high-fired stoneware. “The pieces of ‘Scotch tape’ are the only parts of these objects with a glaze, the recipe for which I developed myself,” says potter Jacques Monneraud, the artist behind this ever-growing collection of everyday vessels that he’s appropriately dubbed Carton
It takes about a week to create just three pieces, and it took a year and a half to achieve a satisfactory result for the glaze alone. “This collection is an exercise in style, with particular lines dictated by the very nature of the project,” he explains. “I’m not looking for perfect ergonomics in these jugs, and they require so much work that they are above all artistic objects with an aesthetic vocation.”
当你拿起一个看似由瓦楞纸板制成的水壶，然 后惊讶地将水倒入一个同样由类似材料制成的 杯子时，你会发现它们既不会变形也不会变 湿。实际上，它们是用高温烧制的陶器制成 的。陶艺家 Jacques Monneraud 说：「这些物 品中唯一带釉的是模仿『透明胶带』的部分， 而釉料的配方是我亲自开发的。」
BY KATE NICHOLSON
Based in Anglet, France, Monneraud, who started his studio in 2021, worked for a decade in advertising, quickly advancing to creative director. While he was undeniably anxious about leaving his day job for a far more mercurial occupation that involved losing the steady salary and moving house, he felt sure it was the right choice. “People talk about retraining, about change, but the reality is that this new job seems to me to be the natural continuation of my career path,” he says. Going full time in the pottery studio wasn’t, of course, something Monneraud did overnight. “I thought about everything – what I’m going to make, where and with what I’m going to make it, and, of course, how I’m going to talk about it and get the word out.”
Indeed, transforming durable fired clay into something that resembles a far flimsier and more ephemeral material takes considerable planning. “It’s a puzzle that changes from one object to the next,” says Monneraud. “I had to cut baking sheets, fire parts upside down, invent tools, learn to turn again – and cross my fingers a lot.” He adopts all manner of things, from dental instruments to a five-headed ink pen that composers once used to limn music staves, into his creative arsenal.
Monneraud’s inspiration comes “from absolutely everywhere
There are more than seventy – and counting –unique vessels in French potter Jacques Monneraud’s Carton collection.
法国陶艺家Jacques Monneraud的《Carton》
系列包括达70多个独特的器 皿，且数量仍在不断增加。
Despite their uncanny resemblance to cardboard, the high-fired ceramic Carton vases and vessels are completely waterproof.
尽管与瓦楞纸板非常相似，但经过高温烧制 的《Carton》陶瓷花瓶和器皿是完全防水的。
↑ Jacques Monneraud in his pottery studio in Anglet, an ocean-side commune in southwestern France.
Jacques Monneraud在法 国西南部海边城市安格 莱特的陶艺工作室。
→ The details that transform clay into cardboard are meticulously carved by hand using traditional and nontraditional pottery tools.
将粘土变成瓦楞纸板的细 节使用了传统和非传统的 陶艺工具手工制作而成。
– from architecture, from art in general, from society and its objects that we don’t pay attention to.” In his ten-piece series “Civilisation,” part of his expansive Carton collection, each vessel pays tribute to a region historically influential in pottery. One object, a pouring jug with a zoomorphic head, serves as an ode to Chinese ceramic traditions. Made from stoneware and glaze in his signature cardboard-like style, it is based on an early eleventh-century Chinese pourer from the Northern Song period. “I’m very attracted to Chinese ceramics,” he says, “because they’re both technically demanding and creatively generous.” Made of the same material as their original ancient counterparts, his works are “a reinterpretation that reveals the evolution of techniques and aesthetic approaches to clay while at the same time reflecting the times we live in and our relationship with things and their duration.”
It’s understandable, then, that delight, coupled with no small measure of surprise, ranks high among Monneraud’s motivations for creating his entirely handcrafted pieces. “If an object can bring a little magic to everyday life,” he says, “I think it’s a shame to go without.”
可以理解的是，喜悦和惊喜是 Jacques 创作 纯手工作品的主要动力。他说：「一件物品应能给 日常生活带来一丝魔力，如没有那么它就是一种 遗憾。」
植材革新
fungal faux leather
MycoWorks’s Reishi has inspired collaboration with seven visionary French designers to explore new frontiers in sustainable design.
BENEATH EVERY FAIRY RING along a forest trail lies a dense living network. The mushrooms above ground or clinging to tree bark are the fruiting bodies of this enormous organism called mycelium. Biotechnology company MycoWorks is transforming this natural resource into a sustainable leather alternative. Named Reishi after the shelf fungus prized in alternative health, it is now replacing traditional leather in interior design, architecture, lighting, and automotive interiors.
MycoWorks has partnered with design agency Paragone to invite seven French designers and artists to work with the material. Over six months in 2024, they incorporated Reishi into a fresco, screens, a desk, a lamp, a stool, and a bench. “The seven women we chose to use Reishi in their designs embody the true spirit of a modern muse – creative, powerful, and fearless in pushing the boundaries of design,” says MycoWorks Creative Director, VP of Marketing Xavier Gallego.
The only limitation was working within the material’s natural color range, something the creators embraced. “What I particularly appreciated was the variation of colors within it as well as the surface irregularities,” notes sculptor Pauline Guerrier. “Certain points pierce the surface, like beauty marks, adding even more character.” Says architect Marion Mailaender, who used Reishi to craft a contemporary twist on a traditional fisherman’s stool, “It had the feeling of a very natural, very raw material.”
A resulting exhibition, Mycelium Muse, opened to high praise at Design Miami.Paris in October 2024. With past collaborations that included Hermès, Cadillac, and Ligne Roset, Reishi is poised to appear in a wide range of luxury products. Select Mycelium Muse pieces will feature in a Ligne Roset Reishi furniture collection, available worldwide in April. And MycoWorks will unveil another interior design partnership with a prominent luxury furniture designer later in 2025. “For us,” notes Gallego, “it’s about curiosity, partnering with collaborators who uphold high standards, and allowing things to evolve.”
Detail of Daphnée, The Metamorphosis, by Pauline Guerrier, made using Reishi mycelium material from MycoWorks. Pauline Guerrier的《Daphnée, The Metamorphosis》细节 展示，以MycoWorks研发的菌丝体材料Reishi精心打造。
Architect Marion Mailaender transforms Reishi into the seat, complete with fringe, for her contemporary fisherman’s stool.
Marion Mailaender把Reishi改造成座
时尚寿司
sushi in style
Minimalist design meets masterful Japanese gastronomy as Chef Peter Park brings his celebrated Los Angeles sushi counter to Paris’s Saint Laurent Rive Droite.
IN A SEAMLESS FUSION of haute couture and haute cuisine, LA’s famous Sushi Park has unveiled its first international outpost in the newly renovated Saint Laurent Rive Droite boutique in Paris. Opening February 21, 2025, the restaurant reveals design philosophy that mirrors the precision and refinement found in both Chef Peter Park’s culinary approach and Saint Laurent’s aesthetic universe.
Descending to the boutique’s lower level, guests enter an intimate dining sanctuary that perfectly balances luxury and restraint. The space, conceived as part of Saint Laurent Rive Droite’s extensive renovation, embraces the minimalist ethos that has long defined Sushi Park’s original Los Angeles location as well as the fashion house’s design language. The transformation represents a significant milestone in Saint Laurent’s broader global expansion, which included the launch last year of its dedicated Paris bookshop, Babylone.
While Sushi Park’s original strip-mall location in West Hollywood is known for its understated authenticity, the Paris venue elevates the concept in its historic Parisian setting. The interior architecture creates an environment in which every element serves a purpose, from the
Sushi Park 在西好莱坞的原始店铺以其低调 而真实的特色闻名，巴黎分店更将这个理念进一 步升华。室内设计经精心打造，每个细节都其来 有自，从精心策划的灯光（以突显每道菜肴的艺
This integration of fine dining within the Saint Laurent universe enhances the brand’s sophisticated and refined atmosphere. 将精致餐饮融入圣罗兰的世界，提升了品牌的优雅和精致氛围。
carefully considered lighting that accents the artistry of each dish to the thoughtfully positioned counter that allows diners to observe the meticulous preparation of their omakase adventure.
The design smoothly integrates Japanese dining traditions with Saint Laurent’s sophisticated ambiance. Natural materials and subtle textures provide an elegant backdrop for Chef Park’s seasonal creations, and the interior’s intimate scale ensures that each guest’s experience remains personal and focused. The studied design approach reflects the restaurant’s dedication to craftsmanship and attention to detail, qualities that have made Sushi Park’s original venue a favored gathering place for Vaccarello and his inner circle.
The innovative collaboration in Paris between the realms of fashion and gastronomy represents a new chapter in luxury dining, demonstrating how high-end retail environments can evolve to encompass exceptional culinary destinations, offering an enhanced lifestyle experience to a discerning clientele.
Operating Tuesday through Saturday at 8 Rue du 29 Juillet, Saint Laurent Sushi Park Paris epitomizes the intersection of culinary artistry and contemporary design, marking itself out as a trendsetting addition to the cosmopolitan dining landscape of the City of Light.
术美感）到深思熟虑的柜台布局（让食客亲眼 见证料理的精细准备过程），无不体现匠心独 运。
该设计巧妙融合了日本的餐饮文化与圣 罗兰的精致氛围。天然材质与细腻纹理为主 厨 Peter 的季节性创作提供了优雅的舞台， 而室内温馨且亲切的氛围则确保每位客人都 能享受到个性化且专注的用餐体验。这种精 细的设计反映了餐厅对工艺的坚持与对细节 的关注，这些品质正是让 Sushi Park 原始店 铺成为创意总监 Vaccarello 及其核心圈子聚 会之地的首选。
圣罗兰 Sushi Park Paris 位于巴黎 8 Rue du 29 Juillet，每周二至周六营业。这里不仅展 现了烹饪艺术与现代设计的完美融合，更成为 了巴黎国际化餐饮领域的风尚新指标。
植于风土
ooted in terroir
Nestled in the vineyards of Sarzeau, a winery of striking circular design, built around a renovated grain mill, represents both local heritage and the region’s winemaking future.
VISITORS STEPPING THROUGH the storehouse door of Vignoble de Rhuys winery in Sarzeau, a small town in Brittany, enter a space fully integrated into its surroundings. They are guided by the circular structure through the tasting room, educational displays, event space, and production areas. The building’s beach-sand plaster, centuries-old brick, and fixtures handcrafted by local artisans reflect the Breton terroir as much as the wine produced from the surrounding vineyards.
BY
KATE NICHOLSON
“It’s very important to me to breathe new life into existing heritage,” says Carmen Maurice, founder of Morbihan-based Carmen Maurice Architecture, which designed the renovation. “It’s our responsibility today to work with what already exists rather than continuing to build from scratch, and to do so with subtlety, respect, and humility.”
The complex sits amid the Breton vineyards of Rhuys – a wine region revitalizing under the guidance of Parc Naturel Régional du Golfe du Morbihan and the city of Sarzeau after more than fifty years of dormancy. In the spring of 2020, Champagne-Ardenne natives Marie Devigne and Guillaume Hagnier, founders of Le Vignoble de Rhuys Dantelezh, won the contract to plant six hectares of vines. Their first harvest in was in 2022,
法国建筑师事务所 Carmen Maurice Architecture 的创始人 Carmen Maurice 在谈 及设计时说道：「对我来说，为现有遗产注入 新生命是很重要的。如今，我们的责任并非一 味追求从头开始建设，而是利用现有资源，且 应持着温柔、尊重和谦逊的态度来思考。」
该建筑坐落于布列塔尼的 Rhuys 葡萄园 区，这是一个历经 50 多年沉寂后，在莫尔比
Visitors are guided by the circular building through the tasting room, educational displays, event space, and production areas. 游客在环形建筑的引导下，依次游览品酒 室、教育展示区、活动空间及生产区域。
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A grain mill built in the early 1800s forms the center of the Vignoble de Rhuys wine production complex. 建于19世纪初的谷物磨坊，如今已成为 Vignoble de Rhuys葡萄酒生产综合体的中心。
The entire complex, including visitor and production facilities, encompasses almost seven hundred square meters and is surrounded by newly planted vineyards.
建筑群涵盖游客设施和生产设 施，占地近七百平方米，四 周被新种植的葡萄园环绕。
but it wasn’t until mid-2024 that the municipality hired Maurice and her team to transform one of the area’s three historic grain mills, built in the early 1830s, into a wine cellar and production facility. “This is not just about viticulture revival,” she says, “but also about rediscovering a heritage and seizing the opportunity to bring back to life a built legacy that had fallen into oblivion.”
Rustic at first glance, the building hides an extensive amount of research and technical mastery behind its “exterior skin,” as Maurice terms the structure wrapping around the mill. Practicality and sustainability are woven into both the architecture and wine production. A sunken floor allows the press to work by gravity, saving energy. “The form of the project naturally follows the winemaking cycle,” she explains. “This design allows the winemakers to work more efficiently while conserving space.” Thick masonry walls eliminate the need for insulation, naturally regulating temperature and humidity in each room.
Local craftspeople fashioned the custom joinery, and the exterior cladding was made from sand and shells sourced from nearby beaches. The color palette and sharp horizontal lines of the additions reflect the mill’s brickwork. “We wanted the new project to blend seamlessly with the mill, to change appearance with the seasons and light,” says Maurice. Inside, leftover bricks form a bar in the tasting room, and a display case of winegrowing artifacts was handcrafted by a local blacksmith. “The words that resonate most with us came from our client on the eve of the handover: ‘Once the vegetation has grown and the building has settled into its surroundings, it will feel as if it has always been here, as if it were meant to be.’”
昂湖地区自然公园和萨尔佐市政府共同努力下重新焕 发生机的葡萄酒产区。
2020 年春天，来自香槟阿登区的 Le Vignoble de Rhuys Dantelezh 创始人 Marie Devigne 和 Guillaume Hagnier 赢得了种植 6 公顷葡萄藤的合同。他们的首次 收获是在 2022 年，直到 2024 年中期，市政府才聘请
Carmen 和她的团队将该地区三座历史悠久的谷物磨 坊之一（建于 1830 年左右）改造成酒窖和生产设施。 Carmen 说：「这不仅是葡萄种植的复兴，更是重新发 现传统，让被遗忘的建筑遗产重获新生。」
这座建筑看似质朴，但其环绕磨坊的结构（被
Carmen 称为「外皮」）之下，却隐藏了大量的研究和 技术精湛之作。实用性与可持续性被融入建筑设计和 葡萄酒生产中。下沉式地板使压榨机能够借助重力工 作，从而节约能源。她解释：「项目的形式自然而然地 遵循了酿酒周期，设计使酿酒师能够更高效地进行工 作，同时节省空间。」厚重的砖石墙体无需额外隔热， 每个房间的温度和湿度皆可自然调节。
The building offers visitors expansive views of the surrounding vineyards.
建筑为游客提供了俯瞰周围 葡萄园的壮丽视野。
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Visitors view the wine production process through windows piercing the building’s circular corridors.
游客可通过环形走廊的窗户， 目睹葡萄酒的生产过程。
Relais & Châteaux President Laurent Gardinier reveals how authentic hospitality and a deep sense of place transform travel into unforgettable experiences.
Relais & Châteaux Botanique Hotel & Spa – Brazil
AAs the president of Relais & Châteaux, an association celebrated for its exceptional collection of independent hotels and gourmet restaurants worldwide, Laurent Gardinier embodies the essence of authentic hospitality. With properties that capture the very soul of their locales, Relais & Châteaux offers guests not just a stay but an intimate journey into the heart of a place. Tasting Kitchen (TK) founder Mark Hammons had the privilege of sitting down with Laurent to delve into his passion for gastronomy, his vision for the association, and what truly sets their properties apart. § Relais & Châteaux是一个由卓越的独立酒店和餐厅共同组 成的协会，Laurent Gardinier作为Relais & Châteaux的总裁，体现了真正的待客之道。协会的场所捕
What makes a visit to a Relais & Châteaux property special and distinct from other experiences?
What truly sets Relais & Châteaux apart is the profound sense of place each property embodies. Our hotels and restaurants aren’t merely establishments where one eats or sleeps; they are living expressions of their regions’ culture, architecture, and gastronomy. When you stay with us, you’re not just a guest – you become part of a local story that has been unfolding for generations.
We deliberately avoid standardization. Each property offers an experience deeply rooted in its surroundings. Imagine a modern retreat overlooking the majestic fjords of Norway, where the architecture mirrors the rugged landscape and the cuisine celebrates the bounty of the sea. Or picture a historic inn nestled in the heart of Italy, surrounded by centuries-old olive groves and vineyards, where every detail reflects the rich tapestry of the region’s history.
For us, luxury transcends opulence. It’s not about marble floors or gilded fixtures; it’s about authenticity and connection. Luxury is found in the warmth of a genuine welcome, the taste of local ingredients prepared with passion, and the feeling that you’ve discovered something truly special.
How would you describe the guests who are drawn to these unique experiences?
Our guests are seekers of the extraordinary. They are curious souls who desire more than comfort and amenities; they yearn for authentic connections with the places they visit. They are individuals who appreciate culture, art, gastronomy, and the stories that make each region unique.
For them, true luxury lies in the subtle nuances – the aroma of freshly baked bread from a local bakery, the craftsmanship of regional artisans, the personal anecdotes shared by a hotel owner whose family has tended the land for generations. They value experiences that resonate on a deeper level, leaving lasting impressions long after they’ve returned home.
Can you recall your first encounter with Relais & Châteaux and how it influenced your perspective?
I was fortunate to be born into a family that cherished gastronomy and the art of hospitality. From a young age, I found myself immersed in the world of fine dining and exceptional hotels, many of which were part of Relais & Châteaux. Our travels were often guided by culinary exploration – a journey through flavors that told the stories of the regions we visited.
Those early experiences ignited a lifelong passion. I was captivated by the meticulous attention to detail, the harmony of flavors, and the way a meal could encapsulate the essence of a place. It became clear to me that gastronomy was not just about sustenance; it was a gateway to understanding culture, tradition, and the human connection.
What led you to take on a leadership role within Relais & Châteaux?
After pursuing studies in history, literature, and political science in Paris, I ventured into the business world. About 25 years ago, my family acquired a property in Champagne, marking our entry into the hospitality industry. This venture deepened my appreciation for the intricate blend of tradition and innovation that defines exceptional hospitality.
I served on the board of Relais & Châteaux for over 17 years, which allowed me to contribute to the association’s mission and witness its impact firsthand. When the opportunity arose to step into the role of president, it felt like a natural progression – a chance to give back to a community that had given me so much.
Assuming the presidency during such transformative times, what aspects of your role have you found most rewarding?
Without question, it’s the people – the passionate individuals who bring our properties to life. This role has afforded me the incredible
privilege of meeting members across the globe, each with their own stories, dreams, and dedication to hospitality.
Traveling to our properties, I am continually inspired by how our members infuse their unique personalities into their establishments. There’s a profound joy in witnessing the diversity of experiences we offer, all connected by a shared commitment to authenticity and excellence. These encounters reaffirm why we do what we do and fuel my passion for our mission.
In your view, how integral is gastronomy to the Relais & Châteaux experience?
Gastronomy is the heartbeat of Relais & Châteaux. It’s an essential thread that weaves together the fabric of our guest experiences. But it’s more than simply dining well; it’s about the chef’s narrative – their personal expression conveyed through each dish.
Every chef is an artist, an author crafting stories with flavors and textures. They draw inspiration from their surroundings, local ingredients, and traditions, creating culinary journeys that are both personal and reflective of their region. Our guests seek these profound experiences. They want to be moved, to engage all their senses, and to leave with memories that linger.
We honor the individuality of each chef and avoid imposing uniformity. This allows the culinary experience to remain as unique as the place itself. Whether you’re dining in Japan, Italy, or South America, you’ll encounter a distinct expression of gastronomy that is true to its roots.
Relais & Châteaux Wild Coast Tented Lodge – Sri Lanka
Maintaining a close-knit community while expanding globally is challenging. How do you preserve the familial spirit of Relais & Châteaux amid growth?
It is indeed a delicate balance. Our growth is guided by intentionality and respect for our core values. When considering new members, we look beyond the property’s physical attributes. We seek kindred spirits – owners and chefs who share our philosophy of hospitality and commitment to authenticity.
We are not driven by numbers or rapid expansion. Instead, we focus on enriching our association with members who contribute meaningfully to our collective identity. By fostering genuine relationships and ensuring each new addition aligns with our ethos, we maintain the integrity and warmth that define Relais & Châteaux.
Looking to the future, how do you envision Relais & Châteaux evolving over the next decade?
Our journey forward involves both exploration and preservation. Geographically, we aim to deepen our presence in regions like Asia and India, where there’s a burgeoning appreciation for authentic, experiential travel. However, we approach this expansion thoughtfully, ensuring we remain true to our essence.
Our properties will continue to be intimate, often family-owned establishments that offer a profound sense of place. Sustainability
“We believe in the power of hospitality to create lasting memories and meaningful connections.
我们深信待客之道拥有创造永 恒回忆与深厚连接的力量。”
will play a pivotal role – not just environmental stewardship but also nurturing the cultural and social fabrics of the communities we inhabit.
We face the challenge of adapting to a changing world while safeguarding the traditions and values that have always defined us. It’s about embracing innovation in service and technology without losing the human touch that is the cornerstone of genuine hospitality.
What message would you like to convey to those who are discovering Relais & Châteaux for the first time?
Travel is one of life’s most enriching pursuits – a source of inspiration, learning, and connection. At Relais & Châteaux, we invite you to embark on journeys that go beyond the ordinary. Each of our properties is a doorway to the heart of its region, offering experiences crafted with passion and authenticity.
We believe in the power of hospitality to create lasting memories and meaningful connections. Whether you’re savoring a handcrafted meal, exploring local traditions, or simply enjoying the warmth of a gracious welcome, we hope you’ll feel the profound sense of place that defines who we are.
Our commitment is to offer you not just a stay, but an invitation to be part of a living story – a story of heritage, culture, and the timeless art of hospitality. We look forward to welcoming you into our world.
At the Saint James Paris, grandeur, luxury, and gracious service combine in an ideal urban refuge.
BY MARK HAMMONS
A FOUNTAIN’S GENTLE MURMUR welcomes guests through wrought iron gates, setting the tone for what lies beyond – a magnificent neoclassical mansion that houses the Saint James Paris.
For General Manager Laure Pertusier, who has devoted twenty-eight years to this distinguished establishment, that sound still holds magic. “Even today, walking through the gates, hearing the fountain, and seeing this magnificent building still captivate me,” she says, her eyes brightening. “It’s a timeless, peaceful place, an oasis in the city.”
Indeed, stepping into the Saint James Paris feels like discovering a secret garden in the heart of the posh 16th arrondissement. The property, once home to the Thiers Foundation’s scholarly pursuits, now serves as an elegant retreat where intellectual heritage mingles with contemporary luxury. The library bar with its venerable leather-bound volumes is grand yet intimate, the majestic edifice’s history palpable yet not overwhelming.
At the heart of this urban château beats Bellefeuille, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant where Executive Chef Grégory Garimbay crafts cuisine that is both innovative and deeply respectful of nature’s rhythms. “Sincerity is the single most important word to me,” says Garimbay, seated in the restaurant’s light-filled dining room. “We must find joy in what we do and pass that joy on to our customers.”
This philosophy manifests in Bellefeuille’s remarkable tasting menu, whose sequential dishes often make use of different parts of the same ingredient – a creative approach to both culinary excellence and sustainability. “We must make what may not seem visually appealing at first glance appear enticing and desirable,” Garimbay notes. “Beauty takes a back seat – taste is paramount.”
PATRICK LOCQUENEUX
Wrought iron gates open on a grand Parisian château.
↑ At restaurant Bellefeuille, “Taste is paramount.”
在Bellefeuille餐厅， 「味道，才是至高无上的追求。」
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The hotel’s décor reflects a modern yet timeless Parisian chic. 酒店的装饰风格彰显了现代 而永恒的巴黎时尚韵味。
The restaurant’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond its walls to Nonville, where its organic garden, now in its third year, supplies the kitchen with seasonal bounty. “We work closely with our head gardener, Camille Hery, to plan the upcoming season’s sowing,” says Garimbay. During an autumn visit, the garden’s harvest includes squash, lovage, celery, leeks, carrots, and quinces – ingredients soon to be transformed into memorable dishes in Bellefeuille’s kitchen.
This dedication to environmental stewardship hasn’t gone unnoticed. Along with its Michelin star, Bellefeuille has earned the guide’s Green Star, recognizing its commitment to sustainable gastronomy. The hotel itself holds both the Clé Verte and Écotable certifications, achievements that Pertusier considers a source of pride for her entire team.
The customized service at Saint James Paris reflects the same attention to detail that distinguishes its culinary program. “It’s very important to have a personalized
Saint James Paris is imagined as a gracious and luminous private residence. 优雅、明亮的私人宅邸Saint James Paris。
approach to each customer,” says Pertusier. “All of them are greeted with a small personal touch, a special welcome that we take note of. I always take great pleasure in welcoming customers, meeting them at different points in their stay and discussing their Parisian experience.”
As the sun sets over Paris, casting a golden glow through the property’s manicured gardens, it becomes clear why guests return to Saint James Paris year after year, even month after month. In a city renowned for its luxury hotels, this urban mansion stands apart – not just for its impressive architecture and Michelin-starred dining but for the genuine warmth that permeates every corner.
“This hotel is truly a unique place,” says Pertusier, “and it should remain so for a long time to come.” Looking around at its seamless blend of historical grandeur and contemporary comfort, at its staff moving with quiet efficiency and cordial smiles, at its guests lingering leisurely over meals at Bellefeuille, one can’t help but conclude that, more than a hotel, the Saint James is a Parisian paradise.
A golden scallop shell lends its name to the atmospheric bar.
巴黎精粹
At Château Voltaire, guests find genteel luxury in the very heart of the City of Light. essence of paris
AT ONCE IMPOSING AND UNASSUMING, Château Voltaire is a Parisian hotel that looks and feels very much like an elegant private house. A combination of three classical structures dating back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, tucked away on a quiet street just moments from the Jardin des Tuileries and the Opéra Garnier, Château Voltaire radiates a vibe that is more exclusive members’ club than opulent international hotel. And this begins at the discreet entrance that opens into a hall scented with fresh flowers and lined with striking artwork.
BY LUCY MORGAN
Conceived by Thierry Gillier, founder of clothing brand Zadig & Voltaire, this thirty-two-room boutique hotel is specifically designed
to reflect the essence of Paris: a meeting of history and contemporary creativity. Gillier worked with artistic director Franck Durand and interior design duo Festen to create a space that appears both eclectic and seamless. Each of the rooms is different in style, adapting to the curves and angles of the building, reflecting the character of the architecture it inhabits while exuding a personality of its own. The feather in the cap of this beautiful property is a top floor apartment, complete with kitchen, dining room, and a charming terrace affording views across the historic roofs and buildings of the city.
“Paris is a place full of references to its rich past,” says Gillier. “We have revisited this elegant heritage with a modern twist to create a space where people can enjoy themselves and fully experience the Parisian spirit.”
A luxurious sitting area with vintage furnishings makes the perfect setting for informal daytime meetings. The alluring La Coquille d’Or bar, with its dark walls, golden scallop-shell motifs, and atmospheric lighting, becomes a lively gathering space throughout the evening. Next to the hotel entrance, Brasserie L’Emil entices diners with its traditional woodpaneled dining room, tiled floors, and marble-topped tables. The menu is classic Parisian brasserie – steak frites, frog legs, mille-feuille – but with a difference: Brasserie L’Emil is a pioneer of “early dining,” an emerging trend in France. Traditionally, restaurants open for dinner after seventhirty, but Brasserie L’Emil offers continuous service from noon to tenthirty, allowing guests to come straight from the office for an early supper or to dine with friends before taking in a show or having the rest of the evening to relax. The true spirit of this property is a sense of the guest’s autonomy: “Château Voltaire,” says Gillier, “is a contemporary place for the people of today.”
guests enjoy polished Parisian elegance in an idyllic pastoral setting.
LESS THAN AN HOUR FROM PARIS is a spectacular hideaway, a twelfth-century ruined abbey transformed into a neo-Gothic palace with the charm of a grand country château. Laurent de Gourcuff, founder of pioneering hospitality group Paris Society, has brought his visionary talent to the French countryside in a collaboration with celebrated designer Cordélia de Castellane. Together, they have reimagined Parisian chic by remaking a historic landmark set in acres of peaceful parkland, imbuing it with the quintessential artistry, modernity, luxury, and élan of the City of Light.
BY LUCY MORGAN
A stunning property that attracts the Parisian elite seeking a tranquil escape with city cool, L’Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay is also perfect for discerning international travelers who want proximity to the French capital along with the comfort and quietude of a country hotel with a fascinating backstory.
In 1147, an order of Cistercian monks lived and prayed within the stately stone walls of the abbey and happily continued to do so for a couple of centuries until, sadly, the Hundred Years’ War and the French Revolution contributed to the abbey’s decline and fall into disrepair. In
在距离巴黎不到一小时车程的地方，隐藏着一处 世外桃源。一座十二世纪的废墟修道院被改造为 具有新哥特式风格的宫殿，散发着乡村城堡的魅 力。Paris Society 的创始人 Laurent de Gourcuff 携手著名设计师 Cordélia de Castellane，将远见 卓识融入法国乡村，重塑了巴黎时尚。他们为这 个坐落在宁静公园中的历史地标，赋 予了典型的艺术性、现代感、奢华气 息及巴黎的独特气质。
1147 年，一群西多会修士在修道院生活，这 一传统延续了数个世纪。然而，百年战争和法国 大革命导致修道院逐渐衰落并年久失修。在十九 世纪末，Baroness Charlotte de Rothschild 男爵 夫人购入了这地方，并进行修复与扩建，同时保
L’ABBAYE DES VAUX DE CERNAY (5)
Guests can enjoy breakfast under stone arches at Le Réfectoire Des Moines. 客人可以在Le Réfectoire Des Moines的石拱顶下享用早餐。
the last quarter of the nineteenth century, Baroness Charlotte de Rothschild purchased the property and set to work, preserving architectural elements of the original buildings as she created a magnificent summer residence.
Today, thanks to the skillful hands of de Gourcuff and de Castellane, guests are offered accommodations in a choice of four distinctive settings: the historic abbey itself; charming attic rooms in a transformed stable called Les Haras; La Ferme, a secret hamlet of four buildings set among meadows and groves, with interior design by Corinne Sachot; and Les Pavilions, three intimate residences scattered across the property. The rest of the property features bespoke furniture and exquisite decorations chosen by de Castellane. Each of the 145 bedrooms reflects this careful design. Says de Gourcuff, “It had been my dream to offer our customers
留原有建筑元素，这座避暑别墅从此为此地增 添了新光彩。
如今，在 Laurent 和 Cordélia 的巧手之下， 客人可以选择四种不同的住宿：历史悠久的修 道院；马厩改建而成的阁楼客房 Les Haras ； 四栋隐藏于草地和树林的建筑 La Ferme, 室内 设计由 Corinne Sachot 负责；以及三栋散布于 庄园各处的私密住宅 Les Pavilions。145 间客 房均配备了由 Cordélia 精选的定制家具和精美 装饰。Laurent 说：「我一直梦想打造一处距离 巴黎不到一小时车程的乡村酒店，让客人能继 续享受 Paris Society 的体验。」
L’ABBAYE DES VAUX DE CERNAY (2)
Laurent de Gourcuff, founder of pioneering hospitality group Paris Society. 酒店集团Paris Society的创办人Laurent de Gourcuff。
the most beautiful country hotel less than an hour from Paris, allowing them to extend the Paris Society experience.”
Bicycles, rowboats, and horses are at hand for sport enthusiasts to make the most of the fresh air and scenery. Those pursuits, as well as exploring the estate’s landscape gardens and fields and its lovely ornamental lake, may well build up an appetite. Guests can enjoy breakfast under the stone arches at the historic Le Réfectoire Des Moines or indulge in French fine dining at Les Chasses. L’Auberge features a firewood grill offering sharing dishes and à la carte options, and La Trattoria offers indulgent Italian comfort food. “I really want our guests to feel as at home as in their own country house, but with the attentive and precise service for which Paris Society is renowned,” says de Gourcuff.
酒店为运动爱好者提供自行车、划艇和 马匹，让他们尽情享受新鲜空气和迷人美景。 宾客参与这些活动，或是探索庄园内的景观花 园、田野和观赏湖，或更能激发食欲。客人可 以在历史悠久的 Le Réfectoire Des Moines 餐 厅内的石拱顶下享用早餐，或在 Les Chasses 品尝精致法式佳肴。L’Auberge 提供以柴火烤 制的共享菜肴和单点菜单，而 La Trattoria 则 供应丰盛的意大利美食。Laurent 表示：「我 希望客人能感受到宾至如归的温暖，就像置 身于自己的乡间别墅，同时也能体验到 Paris Society 闻名于世的细致服务。」
Carrot, Spider Crab,
Tonka
胡萝卜、蜘蛛蟹、
零陵香豆
冰火盛宴
fire and ice
Chef Atsushi Tanaka of restaurant AT in the Latin Quarter of Paris plays with temperatures, textures, and flavors to transport diners to a realm of culinary magic.
A FEW METERS from the Pont de la Tournelle in Paris, a discreet shop front leads into a carefully lit, sparely furnished space that, in contrast to the bustling streets and imposing architecture outside, generates an instant sense of peace. This is Michelin-starred restaurant AT, helmed by inspired Chef Atsushi Tanaka, who dares to champion simplicity in one of the world’s most extravagant cities.
BY LUCY MORGAN
Through his choice of unvarnished wooden cutlery and unglazed pottery, Japan-born Tanaka creates a pared-back natural stage on which his exhilarating cuisine can perform its wonders. “I choose the artisans that I work with carefully,” he says, surveying a table bearing plates and bowls in natural earthy tones.
巴黎图尔内勒桥附近有一个不起眼的店面，里 面灯火通明、装饰简约，简致静谧的氛围与外 边喧闹的街道及壮观的建筑形成鲜明对比。这 里是米其林星级 AT 餐厅，由创意 无限的日藉主厨田中淳掌舵，他勇 于在奢华的巴黎推崇简约之风。
The finest French produce and an abundance of local seafood are transformed into a menu of magical dishes that rise and fall in temperature, that shatter and crunch, that coat and melt, that beguile and excite with a range of textures.
Tender Banka trout, concealed by crisp shards of tuile, is covered by a chilly powder of fromage blanc that slowly melts into a cream. An oyster hides beneath the fierce perfume of a sorrel-and-lovage granita, whose cold temperature initially mutes powerful flavor notes, which then amplify as they warm on the tongue.
One exquisite dish offers thin slices of carrot attached to the inside of an earthenware bowl, like orange petals. A rich foam made from crustacean shells and the warm spice of tonka bean covers sweet strands of spider crab. There’s a running theme of revelation, of surprise, of conceal and reveal.
Hints of smoke pervade the menu – a juicy mussel in a paperthin tartlet bears a faint whisper; the earthiness of beetroot is tempered by fire before being ground into a powder and served with ice cream. And to balance the smoke is the scent of perfume – yuzu, chervil, ginger slivers, rose – all these make their appearance during the multiple-course journey into Tanaka’s beautiful world.
“It takes me a while to perfect my creations,” says Tanaka. “I keep experimenting. When I was designing the trout dish, I tried so many different species of fish until I found the Banka. Then I just knew it was right.”
At three-Michelin-star AM par Alexandre Mazzia, guests take an up-close-andpersonal tour through the life of a culinary virtuoso.
CLOSE TO THE PRADO BEACHES OF MARSEILLE, along a quiet side street, a twenty-seat restaurant with a lean minimalist interior plays host to some extraordinary cooking. Chefs stand in an open kitchen in the center of the room. A stone pillar recalls the ancient Greeks who first colonized this southern French city. Another pillar, clad in cork bark, pays homage to both local wines of the fertile region of Provence and the exceptional wine list at AM par Alexandre Mazzia.
BY LUCY MORGAN
“When I moved back to Paris after spending the first fifteen years of my life in the Congo, it was a culture shock,” says Mazzia. “I have cooked all over France and learned from some wonderful people. I had a classical training but have brought something from all the places I have lived and cooked.”
AM par Alexandre Mazzia 坐落于马赛普拉多海滩旁 的一条安静小巷，这家仅有二十个座位的餐厅，以简 约的室内设计和超凡脱俗的烹饪技艺，吸引着食客纷 至沓来。在餐厅中央的开放式厨房，可见厨师们忙碌 的身影。餐厅一根伫立的石柱，让人想起最早殖民这 座法国南部城市的古希腊人；另一根则被 软木树皮包裹，向普罗旺斯肥沃之地的葡 萄酒及餐厅卓越的酒单致敬。
Counterclockwise from bottom: A sequential dish on three plates starts with a claw and tail of blue lobster with smoked and burnt watercress and herbaceous shells. Next is scallop matured in mirin, Venus clam, watercress and smoked beetroot, scallop milk, and scallop granitas. The finale is steamed razor clam, puffed barley, and iodized seaweed condiment with an accompanying jug of eggnog made from egg yolk lightly beaten with rice vinegar and sprinkled with cumin. 享用这三道菜式的顺序：先从右下方的蓝龙虾 尾和钳，配烟熏焦香水芹和香草开始；接下 来是上方的味醂扇贝，配花蛤、水芹、烟熏 甜菜根、扇贝奶羹及沙冰；最后是左边的蒸蛏 子配膨化大麦、咸海藻，伴上用蛋黄轻轻打 散后加入米醋，再撒上孜然制成的蛋奶酒。
He now calls Marseille home, and his restaurant, which has been open for more than ten years and was awarded its third Michelin star in 2021, offers guests a glimpse into his innermost culinary identity. “My cuisine is deeply personal,” he says. HIs initials, AM, above the restaurant’s door are also a play on the French word âme, meaning soul, a hint at the intimate experience guests can expect at Mazzia’s table.
Menus can consist of up to twenty-five dishes. At times, multiple plates are served together, and diners may be given instructions about the order to eat them in. Smoke, spice, and chili appear regularly as seasonings, adding complexity to his dishes.
A small dark chocolate tartelette is perfumed with pungent cumin. A long wooden spoon, its bowl fringed with bright orange petals, recalls the sunflowers that populate the fields of Provence during July – until it releases a violent punch of chili on the palate. “Some dishes are very rich, very aromatic,” says Mazzia, “and I want them to provoke emotions, to take people on an interior journey, a cultural journey, an expression of my culinary philosophy.”
Dishes range in hue from elegant monochrome to playful Technicolor. Sinuous forms and supple textures contrast with
splintering tobacco leaves and sandy crumble. It is impossible to predict how each bite will taste and feel. The only certainty a diner can have is that the overall sensation of all the food that Mazzia creates will be astonishing.
Mazzia’s cuisine may benefit from global inspiration, but it is firmly rooted in a sense of home. The restaurant walls display photographs of his family members. Toys belonging to his son line a shelf. The physical presence of chefs cooking in the dining room and ingredients sourced from the nearby ocean and hills give a sense of place to the dishes. The menu manages to be at once exotic and familiar.
“I don’t use recipes,” he says. “I have an idea, then decide how to construct it. I’m aiming to elicit flavor and most of all create equilibrium in the dish.” Influences of Mazzia’s African childhood and travels are strong, and he makes use of spices from nearby Noailles market. “Marseille is a special place – it’s a crossroads of ethnicity, and that’s very important. The power of the light is everything. There is the sea, the mountains, the hills.”
Mazzia allows his cooking to be directed by seasonal produce from the region’s best suppliers. “My menu changes all the time. I can never be bored.”
At three-Michelin-star Le Petit Nice in Marseille, Chef Gérald Passedat allows the ocean’s ample provision to guide his deliciously healthy menu.
“THE FISH I WORK WITH have never touched the ice,” says Chef Gérald Passedat of Le Petit Nice. “They are completely fresh from the water, line caught. We work very closely with the fishermen here.”
The restaurant occupies an elegant stone building right on the ocean’s edge. Sitting in the dining room and looking out over the water feels a little like being afloat. Tables are covered with crisp white linen, and small bowls textured like sea urchin shells appear alongside a tiny mother-ofpearl spoon on a silver rest in the form of a small clam.
Le Petit Nice 餐厅的主厨 Gérald Passedat 表示：「我 处理的鱼从未接触过一块冰晶。它们都是直接从海 中捕捞，用鱼线新鲜钓上来的。我们与本地渔民的 合作非常紧密。」
Passedat’s family has been with this restaurant for over a century, so it’s no surprise that the environment and the service are impeccable. It would be reasonable to associate this level of understated luxury with a menu featuring caviar, foie gras, and imported produce, but the reality is that Passedat has a deep commitment to sustainability and the deepest regard for the ocean.
“We have to respect seasonality. You don’t eat the same fish in
Le jardin marin, shellfish jelly and herbs à pied 海洋花园 贝壳冻及香草
June as you do in November. I cook with sixty-five different species of fish that swim locally, and I’ve been doing this for over thirty years. We need to be careful, or the sea may stop giving up her bounty.”
In addition to cooking with lesser-known species, Passedat uses every part of every creature, from gills to tail, to avoid food waste. He ages fish to relax the fibers of its flesh and improve flavor, a practice that has become increasingly popular in fine dining in the last decade. “It’s not a fashion or trend for me,” he says. “I have always matured fish. As well as its beneficial effect on texture and flavor, it means we can keep the fish and use it longer, which is another aspect of sustainability.”
Taking aging one step further, Passedat creates marine charcuterie. “You make it very much in the same way as you would from meat. You preserve the fish flesh in salt with some aromatics.
The stunning napery and tableware often hints at the ocean which surrounds the restaurant.
餐厅里的桌布和餐具让人联想到环绕着餐厅的壮丽海洋。
Then you let it dry out.” The process, which takes around two to three months, results in a pleasingly chewy texture and delicate salinity.
Le Petit Nice’s menu is surprisingly light, a reflection in part of the beautiful Provence produce. “The diet here is naturally very healthy,” says Passedat. “We have the best olive oil, vegetables, fish, grains, wine, and flowers – all within a few kilometers. We have wonderful sunshine, hills, places to walk and swim. People live a long time
He presents a bright white oblong of steamed sea bass, with a perfect cuisson, its delicate flavor and gentle texture a clear sign that the fish has made the shortest journey from sea to plate. It is balanced by classic Mediterranean produce: zucchini, lemon, and tomato.
“This is Sea Bass Lucie Passedat, named after my grandmother,” says Passedat. “There’s a touch of truffle in the sauce to pay homage to her roots in Quercy, as well as the flavors of Provence.”
Thirty years ago, Passedat stopped cooking with dairy products.
“I feel we have a duty to care for our guests – I want to feed them healthy food,” he says. “When people eat your food, they should feel better for it, not worse. It’s over for me, this overfeeding of people. Chefs need to be more responsible.” Sometimes in place of dairy, he says, “I use fish eyes for their collagen. I don’t like to waste anything.”
Despite holding the highest Michelin rating since 2008, Passedat remains grounded. “I want my cuisine to speak of simplicity,” he says. “I have to be humble – the sea is my sovereign, and it is she who decides which gifts she will give me. It’s the sea who decides what I cook every day.”
Le Petit Nice 的菜单非常清新，在一定程度 上展现了普罗旺斯丰富农产品的魅力。Gérald 说： 「这里的饮食本就十分健康。我们拥有最优质的橄 榄油、蔬菜、鱼类、谷物、葡萄酒及鲜花，且都 在几公里范围之内。这里阳光明媚、有山丘、有 地方让人散步和游泳。人们在这里安居已久。」
As Sofitel marks its diamond anniversary, CEO of Sofitel Legend, Sofitel, MGallery & Emblems Maud Bailly reveals how French gastronomy and cultural innovation are reshaping the future of luxury travel.
AS CRYSTAL CHAMPAGNE GLASSES CLINKED at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Maud Bailly brightened with enthusiasm when discussing the future of French hospitality. In the cultural heart of Vietnam’s capital, where Le Beaulieu restaurant has been delighting discerning guests since 1901, a historic moment was unfolding. The setting itself – Southeast Asia’s first and only Sofitel Legend hotel – embodied the brand’s mission of building cultural bridges between France and the world.
Maud Bailly, CEO of Sofitel Legend, Sofitel, MGallery & Emblems 索菲特传奇、索菲特、美憬阁及Emblems首席执行官
The unprecedented collaboration brought Executive Chef Yannick Franques from Michelin-starred La Tour d’Argent to Le Beaulieu, which had just earned its own recognition in the Michelin Guide 2024. The iconic Paris restaurant in effect ventured nearly ten thousand kilometers from the banks of the Seine to create a unique confluence of French and Vietnamese culinary excellence.
Representing more than just a gastronomic event, the culinary takeover from October 23 to 27, 2024, exemplified Sofitel’s timeless DNA – its desire to empower encounters between cultures, people, and ideas. Among the standout dishes was Caneton Frédéric Delair, served as part of the five-course lunch and eight-course dinner menus. This sophisticated duck preparation demonstrated how centuries-old French culinary traditions could resonate in contemporary Asia.
“Food and beverage are essential to our identity,” says Bailly. And, she believes, bringing La Tour d’Argent to Hanoi represents exactly what Sofitel stands for – connecting the highest levels of French gastronomy with exceptional destinations worldwide. “Luxury is not just about the product; it’s about emotions and creating genuine cultural exchanges through extraordinary dining experiences.”
The brand’s culinary evolution mirrors changing guest preferences. Post-pandemic, Sofitel has seen a dramatic shift toward leisure travelers, who now comprise 65 percent of its clientele. “Today’s guests,” notes Bailly, “seek more than just a meal – they want an experience that tells a story.”
This understanding has shaped Sofitel’s expansion strategy. With plans
它生动诠释了品牌在法国与世界之间搭建文 化桥梁的使命。
这次前所未有的合作，将米其林星级 餐厅 La Tour d’Argent 的执行主厨 Yannick Franques 带到了刚刚荣登 2024 年米其林指 南的 Le Beaulieu。这家标志性的巴黎餐厅 跨越近万公里，从塞纳河畔来到河内，促成 了一场法越烹饪艺术的非凡融合。
La Tour d’Argent’s famous “Caneton Frédéric Delair”
Delair”
Chef Yannick Franques (La Tour d’Argent) and Chef de Cuisine Charles Degrendele (Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi)
Yannick Franques
Charles Degrendele
Le Beaulieu, Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi’s highly acclaimed French restaurant, has been delighting discerning guests in Vietnam’s capital city since 1901.
法式餐厅 Le Beaulieu 坐落于河内大都市索菲特传奇酒店， 自1901年起便以精致优雅的法式美馔征服越南首都饕客的味蕾。
to open thirty-two Sofitel properties and three Sofitel Legend hotels in the upcoming years, including the highly anticipated Sofitel Sapa in Vietnam, the company chooses each location for its potential to deliver exceptional culinary experiences. Equally impressive is the brand’s commitment to sustainability, with initiatives to reduce food waste through AI technology and a goal to offer at least 25 percent plant-based dishes across their restaurants.
Bailly’s vision extends beyond cuisine. Sofitel properties have become gathering places for both international travelers and local communities: “We’re creating spaces where cultural connections happen naturally.” With the expansion of Sofitel Legend, the company’s ultraluxury collection housed in iconic heritage buildings, the brand continues to set new standards for timeless elegance. The approach has proven successful – the brand’s top five markets now span the globe from the United States to Australia.
“Luxury should be generous and lively,” says Bailly. “We’re not in the business of complexity – we’re creating joy through hospitality.” As the brand celebrates its diamond jubilee, it continues to demonstrate how French art de vivre can transcend borders and cultures, creating meaningful connections through exceptional hospitality experiences. In bringing La Tour d’Argent to Hanoi, Sofitel has once again proven that the future of luxury lies not just in preserving traditions but in boldly reimagining them for a global audience.
Maud 说：「奢华应当是丰盛且充满活力 的。我们并非追求复杂，而是通过待客之道创 造喜悦。」在品牌庆祝钻禧之际，仍不断印证 法国生活艺术如何跨越国界与文化，通过卓 越的待客之道建立意义非凡的连接。透过将 La Tour d’Argent 带到河内，索菲特再次证明， 奢华的未来不仅在于守护传统，更在于勇敢重 塑传统，为全球宾客带来焕然一新的体验。
星临岘港
dancing in da nang
At La Maison 1888, Chef Christian Le Squer pairs French culinary technique with Vietnamese ingredients to choreograph a Michelin-starred dining experience.
WHEN LA MAISON 1888 received its first Michelin star in January 2024, it marked a pivotal moment for Central Vietnam’s culinary landscape. Nestled within InterContinental Danang, in a city where lush rainforest meets pristine coastline, this French fine-dining establishment has become the region’s gastronomic crown jewel.
BY
JOEY CHEANG
Acclaimed architect Bill Bensley’s vision materializes in a striking colonial-style mansion, with black and white tiles creating a bold geometric welcome. The manicured lawn leads to an outdoor terrace that suspends diners between forest and sea, offering
著名建筑师 Bill Bensley 的设计 理念在这座引人注目的殖民风格建筑中得到了完 美展现，黑白相间的地砖以大胆的几何图案铺展， 热情迎接每一位宾客的到来。修剪整齐的草坪延
↓↓ The wine cellar of La Maison 1888 餐厅酒窖
spectacular sunset views across the Son Tra Peninsula. Inside, the dining room transforms as evening falls – crystal chandeliers cast a warm glow across antique mirrors and period furnishings, creating an atmosphere that bridges nineteenth-century Parisian elegance with tropical romance.
“In French cuisine, food and perfume dance together, much like haute couture and fine wine,” says Consultant Chef Christian Le Squer, who brings his three-Michelin-star expertise from Le Cinq at Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. “We draw inspiration from colors and fashion, weaving them into our dishes.” Under
伸向户外露台，食客仿佛置身于森林与海洋的怀抱之 中，尽情欣赏着山茶半岛的壮丽日落景色。夜幕降临 时，餐厅内部更是别有一番风味 —— 水晶吊灯在古董 镜面和复古家具上映射出柔和而温暖的光芒，营造出 一种 19 世纪优雅而又不失热带风情的巴黎浪漫氛围。 顾问主厨 Christian Le Squer 说：「在法式料理 中，食物与香气交织共舞，正如高级时装与美酒相得 益彰。」他曾在巴黎乔治五世四季酒店的 Le Cinq 餐 厅工作，期间该餐厅荣获三颗米其林星星。「我们从 色彩和时尚界汲取灵感，并将它们融入我们的菜肴创
← La Veranda
↓ La Maison 1888
Spaghetti Debout En Gratin 立式意大利面
“We draw inspiration from colors and fashion, weaving them into our dishes.
我们从色彩和时尚界汲 取灵感，并将它们融入 我们的菜肴创作中。”
Christian Le Squer
his guidance, La Maison 1888 continues a legacy of culinary excellence established by legendary predecessors including the late Michel Roux Sr. and Pierre Gagnaire.
Le Squer’s menu is a master class in French-Vietnamese harmony. His signature Le Spaghetti Debout exemplifies this precision in an architectural creation of vertically aligned pasta filled with black truffle cream, finished tableside with golden chanterelle sauce. Each dish demonstrates the kitchen’s ability to adapt classical French techniques to Vietnam’s tropical climate and indigenous ingredients.
The daily operations are entrusted to Chef de Cuisine Florian Stein, who Le Squer describes as more than just an executor of recipes. “I’m like a fashion stylist,” says Le Squer, “while Florian interprets my vision and makes crucial adjustments based on local conditions and ingredients while maintaining the essence of each dish.” This adaptability is
作中。」在他的精心指导下，La Maison 1888 餐厅延续了 由传奇前辈们建立的烹饪卓越传统，包括已故的 Michel Roux Sr. 和 Pierre Gagnaire。 Christian 主厨的菜单是法越融合的典范。他的招牌菜 Le Spaghetti Debout（意为立式意大利面）完美展现了精 细的艺术 —— 完美排列的意大利面中填充着黑松露奶油， 最后在桌边淋上金黄鸡油菌酱汁。每一道菜式都彰显了厨 房团队如何将经典的法式烹饪技艺与越南独特的热带气候 和本土食材巧妙结合。
A private dining room (Le Boudoir de Madame) of La Maison 1888 餐厅的私人包厢Le Boudoir de Madame
essential in Vietnam’s climate, where humidity and temperature pose unique challenges to French culinary techniques.
Although local seafood and tropical produce have been seamlessly incorporated into the menu, the kitchen maintains exacting standards with imported ingredients where necessary. “We’re striving for excellence – for that next star,” says Le Squer, highlighting the restaurant’s commitment to continuous improvement.
“It’s crucial that people recognize Vietnam’s potential,” says General Manager Seif Hamdy. “When people think of fine-dining destinations, they often consider Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore, and Taiwan, but Vietnam tends to be underestimated.”
Le Squer shares this vision: “We have French chefs and sommeliers, enhancing the overall quality of our service. Once you have a Michelin star, you want to earn more. We’re like athletes aiming for victory.” In this forest-meets-sea corner of Vietnam, La Maison 1888 is not just preserving French culinary traditions – it’s evolving them.
Christian 也认同这一观点：「我们拥有 法国厨师和侍酒师，大大提升了整体服务质 量。一旦你获得了一颗米其林星，你就会想要 更多。我们就像运动员一样，永远追求胜利。」 在这片森林与海洋交汇的越南角落，La Maison 1888 餐厅不仅守护着法式烹饪的传统，更会持 续将其推向新的高度。
orous to a fault
At Château Pavie in Saint-Émilion, harvest time demands meticulous care and gentle hands.
BY LUCY MORGAN
• PHOTOGRAPHY
BY DAVID HARTUNG
PRESENTED BY CHÂTEAU PAVIE
FROM A LIMESTONE PLATEAU in one of the most important vineyards of Saint-Émilion in Southwest France, it is hard to choose whether to admire the precise geometry of vines that cover the surrounding land or the ever-changing skyscape, ranging from steel gray with rainclouds to piercing azure. On this clear mid-autumn day, as the west wind blows gently across this neat parcel of land, the first rays of morning sun warm the ground, releasing a scent of earth and mature leaves and a faint whisper of fruit from clusters of deep amethyst-colored grapes.
This hillside was once home to a different kind of vine. In the fourth century, red-fleshed peaches called “pavies” flourished here. Now a wine estate planted with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc grapes pays tribute to the land’s former use with its name: Château Pavie.
Just after dawn, pink clouds fray, with the promise of a lovely morning to come. A large group of people wearing matching T-shirts gathers at one end of the vineyard, ready to begin harvest. A tractor loaded with empty crates is parked a short distance from the vines. Some members of the group leave to hoist large containers onto their backs, while others take baskets and secateurs. These are the fruit pickers, who stand and wait, conversing in a mix of French and Spanish. An Englishman who has moved to the area has come to work for the day. A small group has traveled all the way from the Canary Islands off the coast of North Africa.
One young woman has a speaker attached to her clothing that is playing upbeat music, which she mutes as a serious-looking man approaches to brief them. Vineyard Manager David Eymas addresses the group briefly, before a flurry of activity commences. Pickers squat
一位年轻女子的衣襟上挂着扬声器，播放着欢 快的旋律，直至一位面容严肃的男子走近作简报， 她才按下静音键。采摘活动正式拉开序幕前，葡萄 园经理 David Eymas 发表了简短而鼓舞的讲话。随 后，采摘工人们俯身蹲在葡萄藤间，小心翼翼地剪 下一串串晶莹剔透的葡萄，轻轻放入篮筐，再倾倒 进同事们背著的大容器中。满载而归时，他们步向
“The
longer the grapes can ripen, the better their flavor.
葡萄成熟的周期越长， 风味就越加醇厚。”
Laurent Lusseau
Technical Director Laurent Lusseau
Laurent Lusseau
A team of pickers assembles to collect the grapes by hand.
along the lines of vines, carefully snipping bunches of grapes and laying them in their baskets before decanting them into larger containers that coworkers wear on their backs. Once laden, they walk toward the tractor, where they are relieved of their full crates and issued empty ones. A friendly dog, a pet of one of the pickers, weaves through the vineyard, following the progress of the harvest.
The process repeats itself over the morning, like a carefully choreographed dance, as the pickers move from vine to vine. Their work is swift, gentle, and efficient, and in a few hours, the land is stripped of its fruit.
“We wait as long as possible before we harvest,” says Technical Director Laurent Lusseau. “I’ve had a few sleepless nights this last week, worrying about the possibility of rain. But the longer the grapes can ripen, the better their flavor. Before the harvest, we strip away any leaves that might be covering the grapes to allow the last vestiges of sunlight to ripen them fully.” Château Pavie’s vineyards stand out among those of its peers for their extraordinary clean lines, neat pruning, and manicured grounds. “Our viticulture standards are extremely high,” says Lusseau.
Green harvest – the practice of reducing the yield by cutting away a portion of grape clusters before they mature and leaving only the finest behind – not only makes it easier for the pickers to find the fruit but also has a significant effect on the flavor of both grapes and wine. “It’s a sacrifice in a sense,” says Cellar Master Jean-Baptiste Pion, “but it helps to concentrate the flavor, which in turn gives the wine we make its distinctive power.”
The tractor rolls away, its cargo rocking gently as the machine lumbers toward the winery. Two rows of trestle tables supervised by a group of mostly female workers await. The grapes are carefully placed on the tables and examined closely by the team. Any low-quality or damaged ones are removed before the perfect grapes are taken away for light pressing. The filtered juice goes into temperature-controlled fermentation tanks before it is stored in oak barrels for the long aging process. “Everything is done by hand,” says Pion. “Yes, it takes longer, it’s labor intensive, and we lose a reasonable amount of the crop, but the quality is exceptional. We are rigorous to a fault.”
Delicate handling of the grapes continues in the winery, where they are sorted by hand and sent for light pressing. 葡萄在酒庄内被小心翼翼地分类，然后再被送往榨取果汁。
family. Gérard Perse is a successful Parisian businessman, who sold his business in 1998, bought Château Pavie, and moved full-time to SaintÉmilion. “Monsieur Perse made a lot of changes when he bought the property,” says Pion, “including rebuilding this winery, investing in stateof-the-art equipment, and improving the vineyards. But it paid off. In 2012, Château Pavie received the top classification in Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A.”
Château Pavie CEO Henrique Da Costa inspects the sorting tables before entering the cellar, a cavernous space filled with pale oak barrels arranged in neat lines. The beautiful building, with its elegant precision and feeling of space, has an art deco aesthetic and a slight touch of the nautical. The cellar exudes a heady scent of fruit and yeast with a touch of wood. It has a sense of stillness and peace akin to that of a church. “A good year is when you have produced an outstanding wine. It’s not about the volume,” says Da Costa. “The goal is quality.”
The cellar has decorative details reminiscent of the Belle Epoque.
酒窖的装饰细节让人联 想起美好时代（Belle Epoque）的风格。
Château Pavie’s private collection contains bottles which are nearly a century old. 柏菲酒庄的私人酒藏包括收藏近一百年的红酒。
Golden stone buildings can be found across the estate.
As night falls, the medieval buildings of Saint-Émilion glow in the dying light. 夜幕降临，圣埃美隆的中世纪 建筑在余晖中熠熠生辉。
慢酿方长
estina lente
Henrique Da Costa, CEO of Château Pavie, credits the winery’s rapid rise in prestige to patient winemaking practices and careful stewardship of the land.
“WE HAVE ONLY BEEN WORKING in this area for thirty-one years,” says Henrique Da Costa, clad in gilet and jeans, fresh from the harvest at Château Pavie in Saint-Émilion in Southwestern France. “In that time, we have achieved a great deal. But the thing about working with wine is that truthfully your work is fleeting. You are borrowing the land from your children, land that you will eventually return to them. You are planting vines that may outlive you. You produce wine nearly every year, but some bottles need to be kept for decades until they are at their peak. It’s a short and at the same time, a very long game.”
BY LUCY MORGAN
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Da Costa’s first love was numbers. A talented mathematician who grew up in a suburb of Paris in a Portuguese family, he first encountered wine in the form of the rosé that his father bought in large containers, and he was not a fan. “Later, I remember at university some friends offering me wine with cheese, and I said no. But after I met Angélique, we went to visit her parents in Bordeaux,” he says, referring to Gérard and Chantal Perse, owners of Château Pavie. “They gave me some Monbousquet to try. It was like nothing I had ever drunk before and that’s when I realized there are two types of wine – wine, and great wine.”
His path crossed with Angélique Perse in the nineties, while both were living and working in Paris. “I was working in IT at various banks,” he says. The couple met through Da Costa’s brother and then lived together in the French capital for six years. “After we married, Gérard invited us to SaintÉmilion to live and work. We wanted to start a family, and this place in the countryside seemed perfect.”
The family’s cohesion and commitment to hard work paid off quickly. “Wine classifications differ from region to region,” explains Da Costa. “Here in Saint-Émilion, the first classification was declared in 1955. Château Pavie was awarded Premier Grand Cru Classé B. Only two wines received the top accolade, Château Ausone and Château Cheval Blanc.” But in 2012, when Château Pavie submitted fifteen vintages for appraisal of capacity for longevity as well as flavor and structure, the winery was awarded Premier Grand Cru Classé A status, along with Château Angélus. It retained the honor upon reevaluation in 2022.
Da Costa attributes Château Pavie’s success to the family’s continuous presence on the land and to their commitment to their staff and to the region. “We aren’t owners who live in Paris and give instructions from the end of a phone. We’re here every day, in the fields, the winery, the office. We have people working for us who were here before we even came to work on the land. We understand how important it is to look after our staff, to know them well, to pay them properly, to value them.”
In an area with a long winemaking history, where land has often been looked after by
“We are servants of Mother Nature in a weather-dependent business. Ultimately winemakers are custodians of the land. 我们是大自然的仆人，从事着依赖天气的行业。
归根结底，酿酒师是土地的守护者。”
Henrique Da Costa
generations of the same family, this Parisian with Portuguese roots may appear a little out of place. But Da Costa’s commitment to the land and to the future of winemaking extends beyond the hard work he puts in daily across the estate. “I’m the vice president of the tourist board for Saint-Émilion,” he says. “It’s a fascinating medieval town with ancient city walls, a drawbridge, and beautiful buildings of limestone – the same stone that runs through much of the winemaking region, including parts of Château Pavie. There’s such a close bond between wine and the town.
“Saint-Émilion was a site of religious pilgrimage for many years – many of the old buildings, including our Hôtel de Pavie, were once convents or hostelries for visiting pilgrims. Today the town is full of people making wine pilgrimages across the Bordeaux region. I love the town, I love this area, I love the wine.”
There is a disparity between the impressive speed at which the family have improved the land and the quality of wine and the extraordinary patience they display while creating their product. “We are making wine for future generations,” says Da Costa. “At every point of the process we exercise restraint. This starts in the vineyard, where we wait until the grapes are at their peak maturity. And then we are rigorous about our yields –we keep them low so there is greater power in the wines. Then we are particular about the toast on our oak barrels to deliver the exact touch of vanilla or coffee that we want. And we’ll wait for decades if necessary for our wines to have the exact balance that we want before drinking them.
“We aren’t making soda in a factory. We are servants of Mother Nature in a weatherdependent business. Ultimately winemakers are custodians of the land.”
Newly appointed Asia Pacific Vice President for Perse Latitudes João Pires brings his worldwide expertise in wines to Saint-Émilion.
ON THE GROUND FLOOR of an elegant limestone villa built on the slopes of a highly prestigious vineyard, João Pires sits with his back to a long window, the autumn midday sun casting shadows over the room. This Portuguese former army officer seems entirely at home here in the heart of Bordeaux wine country, and for good reason. Pires is one of the foremost wine experts in Asia, with a long career in hospitality and wine consultancy. His journey has taken him around the world from Douro in Portugal and now to Château Pavie in SaintÉmilion and his present position with Perse Latitudes.
Perse Latitudes comprises six wines owned by the Perse family: the Premier Grand Cru Classé “A” Château Pavie, as well as Arômes de Pavie, Clos Lunelles, Château Monbousquet, Angélique de Monbousquet, and Esprit de Pavie. It also includes dining and hospitality sectors and production of honey and olive oil. “I’ll be traveling a lot in this role,” says Pires, “to Cambodia, Thailand, Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore, Japan, China, Philippines, South Korea, to all of the main wine fairs in the region. And I’ll be hosting master classes to introduce our wines to everyone from small brasseries to large hotel chains.”
Pires has worked in some of the top restaurants around the world. “I think I have clocked up over twenty Michelin
bordeaux
BY LUCY MORGAN
BY
PHOTOGRAPHY
DAVID HARTUNG
stars in my career,” he says. “But in the last ten years, when I was working in hospitality, I was not on the restaurant floor so much. I love people, I love the contact with guests, so I’m really excited about this role, about having more contact with people.” He met the Perse family more than twenty-five years ago and they quickly became friends. When Henrique Da Costa joined the company, their shared Portuguese heritage was a further bond. So when the family invited him to work with them, it was an easy choice.
“I have always loved Château Pavie wines,” he says. “Over here on the right bank in Bordeaux, it can be cloudy, it often rains, but summers can be very warm and dry. The limestone of Château Pavie’s terroir acts both as a mirror and a sponge. Limestone is porous and absorbs rainfall and stores it underground, so that when there is a dry spell, the soil remains moist. And when the sun shines, the light color of the limestone reflects the sun’s rays and magnifies their power. All living things need light to flourish.”
Perse Latitudes 旗下拥有六款葡萄酒：包括一级特等酒庄 A 级别的 柏菲酒庄（Château Pavie），以及柏菲香气（Arômes de Pavie）、月光 园（Clos Lunelles）、蒙布斯奎酒庄（Château Monbousquet）、蒙布斯奎 天使（Angélique de Monbousquet）和柏菲精神（Esprit de Pavie）。此 外，集团的业务范围还广泛涵盖餐饮和酒店业，以及蜂蜜和橄榄油的生产。
João 说：「在这个职位上，我频繁出差，目的地包括柬埔寨、泰国、香港、 澳门、新加坡、日本、中国、菲律宾、韩国等地。我会参加该地区所有 主要的葡萄酒展会。同时，我还会主持大师班，向从小酒馆到大型连锁 酒店的各类客户介绍我们的葡萄酒。」
João 曾在全球多家顶级餐厅工作，并积累了丰富的经验。他说：「我 在我的职业生涯中，已经积累了超过二十颗米其林星星。虽然我在过去 的十年里在酒店业工作，但我很少直接参与餐厅的一线运营。我喜欢与 人打交道，更享受与客人互动的时光，所以这个新角色让我感到非常兴奋， 因为它能让我与更多人建立联系。」早在二十五年前，他就认识了 Perse 家族，并很快成为了朋友。当 Henrique Da Costa 加入公司后，同样来自 葡萄牙的他们更是进一步加深了彼此的情谊。因此，当家族邀请他加入时， 他轻松地做出了决定。
“I love people, I love the contact with guests, so I’m really excited about this role.
我喜欢与人打交 道，更享受与客 人互动的时光， 这个新角色让我 感到非常兴奋。”
João Pires
A highly regarded wine expert who holds the title Master Sommelier, Pires did not develop an interest in wine until he was older. “I did not drink alcohol when I was a young man,” he says. “Then I joined the army to do my national service, and while I was in the army I drank beer, not wine.
“I left the army and one of the commanding officers asked me to manage a wine bar for him. That’s where my interest in wine began. I went to hotel school and fell in love with wine. In the mid-nineties, when I was about thirtytwo, I decided to become a sommelier.”
João 表示：「我一直很喜欢柏菲酒庄的葡萄酒。在波尔多的右岸， 天气可能会阴沉，经常下雨，但夏天有时也会变得非常温暖和干燥。柏 菲酒庄的石灰岩土壤兼具镜子与海绵的特性。石灰岩因其多孔性，能够 吸收降雨并将其储存在地下，因此即使在干旱时期，土壤仍然保持湿润。
「离开军队后，一位指挥官邀请我为他经营一家葡萄酒吧。那成为 我对葡萄酒产生兴趣的起点。随后，我去了酒店学校学习，并逐渐爱上 了葡萄酒。到了九十年代中期，当我大约三十二岁的时候，我下定决心 要成为一名侍酒师。」 PRESENTED BY
João Pires
家承匠心
family values
Angélique Da Costa tells how the property her parents bought in Saint-Émilion continues to offer a warm sense of hospitality amid the elegant surroundings of today’s Hôtel de Pavie.
UNDER THE SOARING TOWER of a limestone church, Hôtel de Pavie offers views across the rooftops of the medieval village of Saint-Émilion toward its UNESCO-World-Heritage-listed vineyards. There is a powerful sense of history here, a constant reminder of being part of something bigger. There are the hectares of land under vine that are subject to the vagaries of nature and an astonishing monolithic church carved into the rock face, where, during the eighth century, a hermit called Émilion is said to have lived and performed miracles.
BY LUCY MORGAN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Once a simple convent that offered shelter to visiting pilgrims, Hôtel de Pavie is now a luxurious haven for wine enthusiasts and history lovers from around the world. And at its helm is Angélique Da Costa, a Parisian whose parents, Gérard and Chantal Perse, moved to the area when they bought prestigious winery Château Pavie in the late 1990s.
“When I left university,” she says, “I had two career options – to go into the hotel industry or human resources. I thought human resources would be calmer, so I took a position at Galaries Lafayette. I loved working there – it’s a large company but with a friendly atmosphere.”
Da Costa, who joined the family business in 2005, oversees the company’s hotel and restaurants and also heads up human resources for Vignobles Perse. She spends every morning in the hotel with her team and guests and in the afternoons performs her personnel role from an office at Château Pavie. “It’s really important I am here in person every day,” she says.
“Wine and hospitality go hand in hand. 葡萄酒和酒店业是相辅相成的 。 ”
Angélique Da Costa
When Da Costa’s parents first moved to Saint-Émilion, they often dined at the restaurant in the current Hôtel de Pavie and discovered one day that the owners wanted to retire. “My parents loved this place; they loved the location. They understood there would be a lot of work to do, but they couldn’t leave it,” she says. The Perse family bought the hotel, which became the foundation of the hospitality wing of the business.
“Wine and hospitality go hand in hand,” says Da Costa. Today, hotel guests enjoy personal visits to Château Pavie, driven there in the hotel car through the historic vineyards. And back at the hotel, they can enjoy the property’s exquisite wines.
The hotel has grown to meet demand: a short walk through the cobbled streets of this historic village leads to La Maison des Suites, a sensitively renovated eighteenth-century building that offers very spacious accommodations. TwoMichelin-star fine-dining La Table de Pavie is the property’s gastronomic star, and a relaxed bar area offers hotel guests a sumptuous breakfast.
The family expanded their restaurant portfolio a few years ago with Le Bistrot du Clocher, just across the charming village square and serving a broad selection of Italian specialties. Around the corner is L’Envers du Décor, a modern French brasserie with a generous terrace. It features traditional dishes made with the highest quality local meats and seafood.
Guests at Hôtel de Pavie are made to feel like old friends and many return year after year. “There’s a real sense of family here – it’s our way, it comes naturally,” says Da Costa. “The people who work with us have the same approach, and when I am not around, the staff recognize that they are representing the family business. Many of them have worked here for a long time, they love it, and we leave them in charge because we have mutual trust.”
为了满足日益增长的住宿需求，酒店进行了扩建。穿 过村庄的鹅卵石街道，步行不远就可到达 La Maison des Suites。这座经过精心翻修的 18 世纪建筑，为客人提供宽 敞而舒适的住宿环境。而拥有两颗米其林星星的 La Table de Pavie 餐厅，更是酒店的美食瑰宝，为客人带来极致的 味蕾享受。此外，氛围轻松的酒吧区域也为客人提供丰盛 的早餐选择。
几年前，家族还进一步扩大了餐厅业务，增设了 Le Bistrot du Clocher 餐厅。这家餐厅位于小镇广场对面，提供 丰富多样的意大利特色菜肴。而位于拐角处的 L’Envers du Décor 现代法式小酒馆，则凭借其宽敞的露台以及采用当地 高品质肉类和海鲜烹制的传统菜肴，赢得了众多食客的喜爱 与青睐。
a sumptuous menu that celebrates synergies between food and wine.
INSIDE A GOLDSTONE BUILDING, next to a wall with colorful artwork depicting the pretty town of Saint-Émilion in France, six black-clad waiters open white linen napkins and drape them carefully over the heads of six diners. They instruct the guests, their faces now hidden from view, to pick up what look like meat bonbons with their hands and pop them into their mouths.
“There is some debate about whether the point of the napkin is to hide your shame from God, to amplify the flavors, or to preserve your dignity as the juices run down your chin,” remarks Head Sommelier Benoît Gélin of La Table de Pavie, a two-Michelin-star restaurant helmed since 2020 by famed chef Yannick Alléno.
This unusual dining ritual is associated with the now outlawed gastronomic tradition of eating ortolans. These are tiny songbirds, which were hunted and caught in nets before being fattened, cooked whole, and devoured, from beak to claw, in one bite under the privacy of a napkin. At La Table de Pavie, this ritual now involves the choicest parts of a locally sourced pigeon, cooked until bursting with juices and served on a tiny bone. Decadence tempered by sustainability. “The pigeon served ortolan style is unique to our restaurant,” says Executive Chef Sébastien Faramond, “and our guests really love it.”
HARTUNG
La Table de Pavie 的首席侍酒师 Benoît Gélin 解释道：「关于餐巾的用意，众说纷 纭：是为了向上帝隐藏食客的饕餮之态， 还是为了放大味觉体验，又或是为了在 汁液流淌时保持优雅姿态。」这家餐厅自 2020 年起由传奇厨师 Yannick Alléno 执 掌，并拥有两颗米其林星星。
这一个独特的用餐仪式源自法国被列为禁忌的 美食传统 – – 圃鹀盛宴。圃鹀是一种娇小的鸣禽，过 去人们以网捕捉，将其育肥后整只烹制，食客在餐 巾的遮掩下，从喙至爪一口吞食。如今，在 La Table de Pavie，这一传统被赋予了新生命：餐厅选用当地 鸽子的精华部位，精心烹制至汁水丰盈，然后盛放 于一个精致的骨架上。这道奢华的菜式蕴含对可持 续发展的深刻思考。行政主厨 Sébastien Faramond 自豪地说：「以圃鹀盛宴风格呈现的鸽子菜式是我们 餐厅的独有特色，深受食客的喜爱。」
Almost vegetable stroll, Gascon pork lard
Faramond, who oversees the kitchen, comes from Toulouse, just a three-hour drive from Saint-Émilion.
“This restaurant,” he says, “is a celebration of Southwest France. And that’s the region where I grew up. I understand the flavors and the amazing produce this area has to offer, so I feel extremely comfortable here.”
The chef presents a large plate ablaze with color: vegetables, fruits, and flowers are positioned under a translucent canopy of local bacon. “We call this,” he says with a smile, “‘almost vegetarian,’ but in truth it is a celebration of the incredible ingredients – simple ingredients – that grow all around us.” Grilled zucchinis lie close to pickled alpine strawberries, preserved asparagus, fermented carrots, and beets. “This is a finedining restaurant, but we respect familial traditions here too. Preserving and fermenting vegetables the way our grandmothers used to means we can enjoy products throughout the year. And the touch of pork? Well, that is the spirit of the Southwest!”
A nearby kitchen garden provides a number of the beautiful vegetables on the plate, while other ingredients come from respected local producers – a forager for mushrooms, trusted fishermen, farmers, an artisanal expert in grains. “We are assiduous about using topquality local produce,” he says, “not only for the best experience for our guests but to support our local community too.”
La Table de Pavie is the upscale restaurant of Hôtel de Pavie, a stunning boutique establishment in the UNESCO World Heritage vineyard of Saint-Émilion. With a view over the town and in the shadow of the looming tower of a church, the restaurant has a prime position in what has become a must-visit location for both local and international wine connoisseurs. Throughout the region, the vineyards that crest the hills and line the gentle slopes of the countryside and valleys are
La Table de Pavie 隶属于 Hôtel de Pavie 精品酒店，后者坐落于被联 合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的圣埃 美隆的葡萄园中。餐厅位置优越，俯 瞰着小镇风光，可以看到教堂高耸的 塔楼。这里已成为本地乃至国际葡萄
Sébastien Faramond
PRESENTED BY CHÂTEAU PAVIE
Fig and honey from the château, extract of refreshed lemon balm leaves 来自酒庄的无花果和蜂蜜、柠檬香蜂草叶提取物
constant reminders of the importance of winemaking to the local community. The kitchen team at La Table de Pavie respects this, working closely with the cellar team at Château Pavie to create dishes that embody the synergy between food and wine.
“Our cuisine combines traditional regional ingredients with upto-the-minute cooking techniques,” says Faramond. “One important element of modernity comes from the sauces we serve.” Uniting the ingredients on each plate while also offering complexity and sublime flavors, La Table de Pavie’s sauces are technical miracles: layers of umami stimulate the palate with a near-impossible lack of heaviness or fat. “There’s a lot of technique here, including the use of extractions, and these sauces can take a long time. It’s really important that they are powerful in flavor but light in texture – we keep tasting and tasting to get it right.”
In complete visual contrast to the platter of colorful vegetables jostling for attention under their delicate lardon cloak is another specialty on the tasting menu, a small dish of langoustine and caviar that appears almost monochrome in tone. Plated sparely, it lies in a pool of sauce perfumed with vanilla and is served with a Château Pavie wine with the faintest touch of vanilla on the palate. “This dish,” says Faramond, “absolutely highlights the bond between food and wine.
“Besides the traditional elements of regional cuisine and the sauces that have become a signature of Chef Alléno’s cooking worldwide, what makes an experience at La Table de Pavie truly special is our sense of ceremony.”
酒鉴赏家的朝圣之地。环顾四周，山丘与山谷间葡萄 园密布，充分彰显了酿酒文化在当地社区中的重要 性。La Table de Pavie 的厨房团队深谙此道，并与 柏菲酒庄的酒窖团队紧密合作，共同打造出融合美 食与美酒的佳肴，完美展现两者间的协同效应。
Sébastien 阐述道：「我们将传统的地方食材与 前沿的烹饪技术相结合。其中，现代性的重要体现就 在我们的酱汁。」在 La Table de Pavie，酱汁不仅是 食材之间的纽带，更为每道菜赋予了层次丰富的味 觉体验。这些酱汁堪称技术的奇迹：它们能在舌尖 绽放多层次的鲜味，同时又轻盈得令人难以置信。「我 们运用了多种技术来制作这些酱汁，例如提炼精华， 有时制作过程可能需要很长时间。关键在于，它们 必须风味浓郁且保留轻盈的质地 —— 我们不断地品 尝与调整，直至达到理想。」
他进一步总结：「在 La Table de Pavie，除了深 植于地方美食传统中的元素及 Yannick 主厨标志性 的酱汁外，餐厅真正独特之处，在于我们赋予的仪 式感。」
美馔颂歌
forging links
Around the world, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs unites gastronomic amateurs as well as professional chefs, sommeliers, hoteliers, and restaurateurs in the appreciation and advancement of fine cuisine.
THE CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS’S roster of nearly twenty-one thousand by-invitation members in more than seventy-five countries has included such food fans as Julia Child, Alfred Hitchcock, Robert Mondavi, and Pope Francis. This international gastronomic association comprises a global community whose focus is on fellowship, camaraderie, and a shared enthusiasm for the culinary arts and the pleasures of the table.
Founded in Paris in 1950, the association takes its name from the French Royal Guild of Goose Roasters, whose written history traces to the thirteenth century. At that time, King Louis IX commissioned the organization of trades and guilds by gathering together the charters of more than a hundred of them, including the Goose Roasters. Eventually, the guild’s authority covered the roasting of all kinds of poultry, meat, and game, and it was active in cultivating the culinary arts and high standards of professionalism until the guild system collapsed during the French Revolution.
Today, the association is known for its international Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition for chefs and its Jeunes Sommeliers Competition, as well as for the presentation of Brillat-Savarin Awards to local chefs. It also hosts epicurean feasts in its local chapters, known as bailliages
法国国际美食协会（Chaîne des Rôtisseurs）汇 聚了来自超过七十五个国家的近两万一千名受邀 会员，其中不乏如 Julia Child、Alfred Hitchcock、 Robert Mondavi，教皇方济各等美食界的璀璨明 星和知名人士。这个国际美食协会将全球各地的 美食爱好者连接起来，他们因友情、对烹饪艺术 和餐桌乐趣的共同热爱而紧密相连。
协会于 1950 年在巴黎成立，并以法国 Royal Guild of Goose Roasters 命名，其历史渊 源可追溯至十三世纪。当时，国王路易九世下令， 组织了包括烤鹅行会在内的一百多个行业和行 会，收集并整理了他们的章程。公会涵盖了家禽、 肉类和野味的烧烤领域，积极推动烹饪艺术的发 展，并秉持着高标准的专业精神，直至法国大革 命期间解散。
In November 2024 at China Rouge, the Macau Chapitre held its Nineteenth Anniversary Gala Dinner, a lavish Western cuisine menu crafted by renowned chefs: Dominique Bugnand, André Ferreira Lai, Peter Find, and Lok Hin Yam (from left to right)
Ocean Table 行政主厨 Jaakko Sorsa、 Embla 创始人兼主厨 Jim Löfdahl，以及 Arbor 厨师老板 Eric Räty（从左到右）。
Ocean Table Executive Chef Jaakko
Sorsa, Chef Jim Löfdahl, founder of Embla, and Arbor Chef-Owner Eric Räty (from left to right).
ONE NORDIC
Three chefs with a shared heritage reunite in Hong Kong for an exclusive dining experience.
NIGHT
IN ONE OF THE CITY’S most anticipated culinary events of the year, a trio of acclaimed chefs recently presented Ocean Table’s Nordic 6-Hands Dinner showcasing the finest flavors from the lands of the North. The menu of eight original dishes was jointly created by Ocean Table Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa, Chef-Owner Eric Räty of Arbor, and Chef Jim Löfdahl, founder of Embla.
BY JOEY CHEANG, NICOLE SLATER • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
While Japanese, French, and Italian cuisines have long dominated Hong Kong’s fine-dining realm, Nordic food has been quietly gaining momentum over the past decade. What started with Sorsa’s groundbreaking FINDS has evolved into a sophisticated Northern European dining scene, with each restaurant offering its own interpretation of Nordic cooking traditions.
The connection between these chefs runs deeper than their shared roots. “Jaakko actually worked in the same restaurant, Chez Dominique, a long time before me,” says Räty. “He was a part of the opening team, while I joined later.” Both Finnish chefs credit their time under legendary Chef Hans Välimäki for shaping their culinary philosophy, though they worked there in
Mackerel, pickle jelly, horseradish, cucumber
Jaakko Sorsa
different decades. Jim Löfdahl first met Sorsa during a collaborative dinner in 2015, and they quickly discovered their shared passion for introducing Nordic cuisine to Asian palates.
The idea for the Ocean Table collaboration was born during one of their casual meetups. “We’ve always talked about doing something together that would represent our shared Nordic heritage,” says Sorsa. The planning involved careful menu curation, with each chef contributing dishes that reflected both their origins and their evolution in Hong Kong.
With collective experience of nearly forty years in the city, the three have dedicated their time to elevating traditional Nordic flavors and techniques and bringing their craft to the Hong Kong diners, despite being more than eight thousand kilometers away from home. Whether born in Finland or Sweden, the chefs share a common inclination for the freshest and most natural ingredients, making each dish on the menu straightforwardly delicious.
Taking more than six months to arrange, the convivial affair, with just close friends and longtime fans of their restaurants in attendance, was a time of bonding and camaraderie among the chefs as well as a festive salute to their common culinary traditions. The dinner
作为香港年度最令人瞩目的烹饪盛事之一，三 位北欧烹饪大师在 Ocean Table 举行一场北 欧六手盛宴，展示北国的精致风味。晚宴由 Ocean Table 行政总厨 Jaakko Sorsa、Arbor 主 厨兼店主 Eric Räty，以及 Embla 主厨兼创办人 Jim Löfdahl 联手呈现，精心打造八道匠心佳肴。 日本、法国和意大利美食长期在香港高级 餐饮业中占据显赫地位，北欧美食却在过去十 年间悄然崛起。自 Jaakko 的 FINDS 餐厅开始， 北欧餐饮在香港开辟出一方精致天地，每家餐 厅都以独特方式诠释北欧烹饪精髓。
三位厨师的渊源远不止于北欧背景。 Eric Räty 分享道：「Jaakko 早于我在 Chez
Dominique 餐厅工作，他是开业团队的一员， 而我后来有幸加入。」尽管两位芬兰厨师的工作 节点并不相同，但他们都认为与传奇厨师 Hans Välimäki 的合作经历对他们的烹饪理念影响深 远。Jim Löfdahl 在 2015 年的一次合作晚宴上 与 Jaakko 初次相遇，并发现彼此都对将北欧美 食引入亚洲抱有强烈热忱。
was accompanied by a selection of Nordic wines chosen to embrace the fresh-and-natural philosophy behind the menu and to complement the cuisine’s simple yet refined flavors. Offering guests a complete Nordic dining and drinking experience, the program featured wines and spirits that included Finnish berry gin and distinctive labels from small producers in regions like the Swedish island of Gotland.
Each chef’s path to Hong Kong tells a unique story of culinary ambition and cultural exchange. For Jaakko Sorsa, the journey, which began more than two decades ago, led him from Finland to global culinary adventures in the jungles of Fiji, in Bermuda, in South Lebanon as part of the UN peacekeeping mission, and finally in Hong Kong with the establishment of FINDS and later of Ocean Table.
Eric Räty’s story began with dishwashing at Finland’s renowned two-Michelin-star Chez Dominique, where determination and talent propelled him through the ranks. After honing his skills as pastry chef at Germany’s acclaimed Aqua, he came, through a collaboration with The Ritz-Carlton, to Hong Kong, where he met his wife-to-be and went on to become chef de cuisine of Café Gray Deluxe.
For Jim Löfdahl, the journey started in Stockholm, where, at just nineteen, he began developing his culinary expertise. After helping to win two Michelin stars for Frantzén/Lindeberg and a brief stint in Dubai, he
Eric 的故事始于芬兰著名的米其林二星餐厅 Chez Dominique 的洗碗工生涯。他凭借坚定的 决心和天赋，不断获得晋升。他在德国著名餐厅 Aqua 担任糕点厨师后，透过与丽思卡尔顿的合 作来到香港，更在此地找到了人生伴侣，并担任 Café Gray Deluxe 的行政总厨。
Jim Löfdahl 的旅程则始于斯德哥尔摩，年仅 19 岁的他已开始磨练烹饪技能，并见证 Frantzén/ Lindeberg 餐厅获得了米其林二星。在迪拜短暂 工作后，他在九年前选择了香港作为新家。他成
pumpkin, yeast
The evening was more than a special culinary event – it was also a testament to the strong bonds among Hong Kong’s Nordic culinary community.
这场晚会不仅是一场烹饪艺术的盛宴， 更是香港北欧烹饪界紧密联系的见证。
made Hong Kong his home nine years ago. Löfdahl’s successful launch of Frantzén’s Kitchen and later of Embla have added new dimensions to the city’s Nordic dining scene.
For the evening’s menu, Sorsa took inspiration from childhood memories of learning how to smoke fish from his grandfather Pentti. His masterfully prepared smoked cod, revealing his Finnish roots as well as his evolution in Hong Kong, featured meticulously timed sous vide cod, Jerusalem artichoke transformed into a saltedcaramel-like sauce, and a finish of trout and roe.
Applying traditional Scandinavian pickling techniques and pairing them with Japanese precision, Räty presented pickled mackerel served on a bed of pickled stock jelly, fresh carrot, onion and vinegar salad, pickled Japanese cucumber, horseradish, and homemade sour cream with sushi vinegar. The dish exemplified Nordic foodpreservation methods that households across the region still use today.
Löfdahl’s sophisticated creation featuring king oyster mushroom captured the essence of Nordic culinary principles. Prepared with brown butter and yeast, the mushroom was placed on a bed of puree made from chestnut and butternut pumpkins and finished with toasted yeast flakes to create a simple, flavorful dish.
The evening was more than a special culinary event – it was also a testament to the strong bonds among Hong Kong’s Nordic culinary community. The chefs’ shared experiences and past connections in their homelands have deepened their collaborative spirit and the love for Hong Kong and Nordic cuisine that brought them together.
Through their dedication and shared vision, Jaakko Sorsa, Eric Räty, and Jim Löfdahl have played a pivotal role in shaping the city’s appreciation for Northern flavors and techniques. Their work has introduced the city’s discerning diners to the depth and diversity of a unique cuisine and paved the way for future Nordic culinary ventures across Asia.
Zam Zam’s Chef Babu delivers classic Middle Eastern cuisine with a light touch and perfect balance.
CHEF BABURAM KARKI (“call me Babu!”) arrived in Macau toward the end of last year to head up the kitchen at Zam Zam in Macau’s Regency Art Hotel. While based for more than twenty years in the UAE, he developed a deep knowledge of halal cooking as well as Middle Eastern history and traditions.
Working alongside the hotel’s genial general manager, Willie Tay, Babu immediately set about crafting an all-new Middle Eastern menu at the only halal-certified restaurant inside a Macau hotel. Given the restaurant’s halal status, the menu is based on chicken, lamb, and beef but is also strong on vegetarian-orientated dishes.
Central, of course, is the tagine, a cooking receptacle that dates back to the days of Harun al-Rashid, an eighthcentury ruler of the Islamic empire. This traditional pot is set on a slow simmer as the dome-shaped lid traps steam and drips the condensed liquid back into the sauce. The process minimizes the amount of water required during cooking – important in regions where supplies are limited. The chef’s dessert snack Luqaimat (“small bites”) – fried dough fritters served with date syrup –is also steeped in history, linking back to thirteenth-century Mesopotamia.
Babu is a master of cooking with cumin, coriander, sumac,
paprika, and the spice blend za’atar. His signature dish is Chicken Quzi, a whole bird stuffed with warmly spiced rice. Also a standout is his appetizer platter, an assortment of colorful, textural dishes with a lovely freshness about them: Fattoush, Mutabal, Baba Ghanoush, Hummus, and Tabbouleh.
Halal meat, says Babu, always delivers a certain “softness.” Both his Chicken Tagine and his delicately spiced Lamb Kofta are perfectly tender, and, apparently, diners who think they don’t like lamb (the smell?) highly praise this dish.
Zam Zam earned its halal certification in mid-2024, granted by the Incorporated Trustees of the Islamic Community Fund of Hong Kong, which also operates in Macau and across China. Taking its name from the Zamzam Well, a source of holy water close to Mecca in Saudi Arabia, Zam Zam offers a familiar association that immediately makes Muslim guests feel serenely at home.
Inspired by movable-type printing, the menu features interactive acrylic pages and pull-out color panels, allowing guests to visually and physically explore the stories behind each cocktail.
受传统活字印刷术启发，酒单采用 互动式亚克力页面与可抽拉色板设 计 ，让宾客在视觉与触觉上全方
位探索每款饮品背后的故事。
COLORS OF ANCIENT WISDOM
Director of Beverage Tiger Chang
Sixteen drinks, four seasons, one vision: Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen’s MO Bar Director of Beverage Tiger Chang revolutionizes cocktail culture through the lens of Chinese color theory.
IN THE RAREFIED AIR of Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen’s 79th floor, where the city’s lights twinkle like earthbound stars, MO Bar’s latest menu is not just a list of drinks – it’s a time machine, a color wheel, and an artist’s palette rolled into one. Director of Beverage Tiger Chang has created something that transcends the conventional boundaries of mixology, drawing deep from the wells of Chinese cultural heritage.
“We sought to create more than just a cocktail menu,” Chang reflects. “Each drink is a carefully composed narrative that brings together ancient Chinese color theory, seasonal transitions, and modern mixology techniques. The result is a collection that honors our heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary cocktail crafting.”
从深圳文华东方酒店 79 楼的 MO Bar 中眺望， 城市灯火如地上星辰般闪烁。MO Bar 最新的 酒单不仅是一份调酒清单，更是一台时光机、 一个色轮，以及一幅艺术画的完美结合。酒 水总监张明儒（Tiger Chang）打造了一系列 汲取中国文化遗产精髓、超越传统调酒界限 的作品。
BY JOEY CHEANG • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Chang and his team delved into traditional color artistry, emerging with a collection that transforms ancient pigment wisdom into liquid art. The menu itself is a tactile adventure – five interactive acrylic panels that play with light and shadow, mimicking the subtle gradients of traditional ink printing. “The physical menu is as much a part of the experience as the cocktails themselves,” notes Chang. “We’ve created a tactile journey through China’s color printing heritage, allowing guests to explore the stories behind each creation.”
Sixteen drinks – twelve spirited creations and four alcohol-free compositions – each capture a specific moment in the solar calendar, their hues precisely matched to traditional Chinese color theory. Consider “Lutinus” ( 黄粟留 ), a spring offering that arrives like the first warm day of the year. Absolut Elyx vodka and Laphroaig whisky provide the canvas for fresh tomato brightness, while sherry vinegar adds a sharp note that cuts through like morning light. The addition of soda brings effervescence that feels like tiny bubbles of springtime joy.
Summer sings through “Turquoise” ( 水龙吟 ), where Chang boldly pairs Tabb Baijiu with Empirical Plum. It’s a study in contrasts – the familiar
comfort of Chinese spirits meeting contemporary Nordic experimentation. Cucumber and whey provide refreshing notes that echo the season’s need for respite from the heat.
As autumn descends, “Azure” ( 苍苍 ) takes center stage. This technical tour de force begins with silver moon tea distillate, its natural color stripped away but its essence intact. ABA Pisco adds structure, while peach notes float above like autumn clouds. The drink transforms as you sip, each layer revealing new complexity, much like the changing colors of fall leaves.
Winter brings “Vermillion” ( 鹤顶红 ), where Pu’er tea distillate meets date-infused vermouth in a warming embrace. Campari and Frangelico add depth and complexity, creating a drink that feels like a comfortable shelter from winter’s chill. The deep red hue is no accident – it’s a deliberate choice that speaks to traditional Chinese color symbolism.
The non-alcoholic offerings are equally thoughtful. “Pearl” ( 明珠 ) combines clarified apple juice with osmanthus tea, creating a drink that’s both sophisticated and refreshing. The drink’s subtle opalescence recalls its namesake, while proving that alcohol-free can be just as creative as its spirited siblings.
This chromatic journey extends beyond the glass. The menu is complemented by seasonal bar bites that echo the essence of each quarter. Spring brings delicate Fine de Claire oysters with yuzu vinegar gel, while
winter warms with bold spicy foie gras with Sichuan pepper. These culinary additions complete each season’s sensory narrative, harmonizing with the drinks that represent that particular time of year.
“In Chinese culture, colors carry deep meaning that changes with the seasons,” Chang explains. “We wanted each cocktail to tell that story – not just through taste and appearance, but through the entire sensory experience. When you understand the color, you understand the drink on a completely different level.”
“Colors of China” is more than a menu – it’s a cultural anthology in liquid form. Through Chang’s masterful interpretation, centuries of Chinese color artistry find new expression in the modern cocktail
glass. As you sit high above Shenzhen, each sip becomes a brushstroke in a larger story of tradition, innovation, and the eternal rhythm of the seasons.
“At its heart,” Chang concludes, “this menu is about bridging worlds – past and present, tradition and innovation, color theory and cocktail craft. Each drink is an invitation to experience Chinese culture through a new lens, one sip at a time.”
In a world where bars often chase trends, MO Bar has chosen instead to chase meaning. The result is a menu that doesn’t just serve drinks – it serves stories, seasons, and centuries of cultural wisdom, one perfectly hued glass at a time.
在酒吧争相追逐潮流的世界中，MO Bar 选择 追求意义。成果不仅是一杯鸡尾酒 —— 更是一次 结合故事、季节，以及数世纪的文化智慧的完美 演绎。
spirits meet science
At Wing Lei Bar, a quiet revolution in luxury hospitality is taking shape.
Mark Lloyd
HEAD MIXOLOGIST MARK LLOYD of Wing Lei Bar at Wynn Palace, Macau, is redefining high-end beverage service through his unique background in industrial chemistry and his experience across Asia’s premier cocktail establishments.
His scientific approach manifests in a methodical yet elegant mixology style. Central to Lloyd’s philosophy is the bar’s distinctive fourquestion concept, by which bespoke cocktails are crafted through nuanced guest interaction and careful observation. “We change a lot within the same constraints,” he notes regarding the transformation of guest preferences into personalized liquid experiences.
The bar’s repertoire showcases innovative signature cocktails that elevate familiar culinary flavors. The Sidecar features house-made croissant-washed cognac with Cointreau and yuzu honey syrup. Lloyd’s Toronto Sour, a personal tribute to his Canadian wife, blends rye, lemon, salted maple, and red wine. And his Margarita enhances a classic with lacto-fermented chili, coriander, and lime. “I know how I want it to taste before I start,” Lloyd says. “What matters is the final flavor, not just the appearance.”
Beyond drinks, Wing Lei Bar has become an incubator for talent development in Macau’s cocktail scene. Lloyd’s master class program, breaking traditional hotel operation boundaries, fosters community knowledge exchange.
“Bars need to be fun, engaging, and different,” he says. “People want experiences.” Working with other talented professionals, Lloyd has created an environment where Eastern and Western flavor traditions coalesce naturally.
Most significantly, Lloyd is pioneering a new interpretation of luxury service that prioritizes authentic engagement. “Real luxury is about being present and anticipating needs without losing personality,” he says. As Macau’s beverage scene evolves, Wing Lei Bar stands as a compelling example of reimagining traditional luxury through contemporary cocktail culture.
澳门永利皇宫永利吧的首席调酒师 Mark Lloyd，凭借工业化学领域的非常 规经历与在亚洲顶级鸡尾酒酒吧的工作经验，重新树立了高端饮品服务的 标杆。
Mark 的理科根基赋予了他严谨而优雅的调酒风格。他的调酒哲学演 变为永利吧的「四问概念」，通过细腻的交流与观察，根据顾客偏好来打 造专属鸡尾酒。他说：「我们能运用相同的资源，创造出许多变化。」
Pineapple and Popcorn Old Fashioned 凤梨爆米花Old Fashioned
Wing Lei Bar 永利吧
以客为尊 精致风范
guest-first sophistication
DarkSide’s Bob Louison brings a quarter-century of expertise to one of Hong Kong’s most welcoming and innovative bars.
“I THINK IT WOULD BE AMAZING to share a drink with Ernest Hemingway, and of course I would serve him a daiquiri,” says Rosewood Hong Kong’s Director of Bars Bob Louison, who oversees eleven outlets, including DarkSide, the hotel’s “sultry jazz and cocktail parlor” currently ranked no. 17 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars.
Louison’s Hemingway remark subtly reveals the most essential aspects of his – as well the bar’s – approach. “The vision for DarkSide,” he says, “has always been to be one of the best bars Hong Kong has to offer. My personal vision involves the growth of the DarkSide team – to strengthen their knowledge of classic cocktails,
Bob 提及海明威的趣谈，点出了他与酒吧经营的哲学精 髓。他说：「DarkSide 一直希望成为香港最耀眼的酒吧之一。
Bob 有 25 年的行业经验，足迹遍布伦敦、纽约、巴塞罗那、首尔 等名城。「在伦敦，我遇到了恩师 Claude。我那时不过是个对调酒一窍 不通的法国少年，是他以无私的胸怀，向我传授了所有调酒智慧。」
Bob 说：「每一天都有新的知识、体验、邂逅和挑战。」DarkSide 近 期的一大亮点，是灵感源自 20 至 30 年代不朽调酒，并以顶级烈酒与创 新元素搭配而成的「新经典」鸡尾酒酒单。
push their boundaries of creativity with our modern signature drinks, and, most importantly, encourage the best hospitality and service.”
Recently arrived at Rosewood Hong Kong, Louison comes with twenty-five years in the industry in cities from London and New York to Barcelona and Seoul. “I had a mentor back in London – shout-out to Claude. I was this French kid who knew nothing. He took pity on me and really taught me everything I know.”
Not quite, because, as Louison says, “Every day, there’s something new to learn, something new to experience, new people to encounter, and new projects to take on.”
Among DarkSide’s most recent endeavors is the launch of its latest Classic Cocktail Menu, an inventive lineup of timeless drinks from the 1920s and ’30s reimagined with creative combinations of premium spirits and flavors.
A case in point is Blood and Sand, a salute to the Valentino film that harmonizes DarkSide’s Blended Whiskey, Mancino Rosso Vermouth, orange, citrus, and a hint of Cherry Heering. Equally intriguing drinks are named Brown Derby, Mai Tai, Champs Elysees, Fallen Angel, Bloody Maria, and Hanky Panky.
“My favorite,” says Louison, “would be the Scofflaw, which debuted in 1924 at Harry’s Bar in Paris. Ours is made with Michter’s Rye Whiskey, Mancino Secco Vermouth, citrus, grenadine, and bitters. I like to make cocktails that have multiple layers, and this classic perfectly expresses that. And while we all love creating and innovating drinks, the most important thing is hospitality and service. People may not remember exactly what they ate or drank at your venue, but they’ll certainly remember how you made them feel.”
其中，Blood and Sand 无疑是绝佳典范，它向经典电影《Valentino》 致敬，融合了酒吧特制的混合威士忌、 Mancino Rosso 苦艾酒、橙子 与柑橘，以及一抹樱桃的甜美，令人回味。同样引人入胜的还有 Brown Derby、Mai Tai、Champs Elysees、Fallen Angel、Bloody Maria，以及 Hanky Panky 等香醇佳作。
Bob 表示：「我个人偏爱 Scofflaw。它于 1924 年在巴黎的 Harry’s Bar 首次亮相。我们的版本精选 Michter’s 黑麦威士忌为基底，佐以 Mancino Secco 苦艾酒、柑橘、石榴糖浆及苦味酒，口感深邃。我钟情于调制层次 丰富的鸡尾酒，而 Scofflaw 正是这理念的完美诠释。创新与创意饮品虽是 我们的强项，但更为核心的是我们的热情与服务。或许人们会遗忘在这里 品尝过的美食佳酿，但他们绝不会忘记你给予的那份独特感受。」
← DarkSide → Bob Louison
Giovanni Gaja
酒韵背后
the soul of nebbiolo
“There’s a saying in Piedmont that, as with its people, nebbiolo reveals its true nature only to those patient enough to wait,” writes TK publisher Mark Hammons, following his conversation in Macau at Don Alfonso 1890, located in Palazzo Versace Macau, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, with the fourth-generation steward of legendary wine estate Gaja. “Sitting with Giovanni Gaja, I’m struck by how perfectly he embodies this sentiment. His words, precise yet poetic, flow like the wines he crafts – initially reserved, then gradually unveiling layers of complexity and depth.” §
在皮埃蒙特流传着一句谚语：「正如本地人一样，内比 奥罗只向那些甘愿等待的人揭示其真正内涵。」TK的 Mark Hammons 与传奇酒庄Gaja的第四代传人
Giovanni Gaja 于澳门上葡京综合度假村內的澳門范思哲豪华酒店大楼星级家族餐厅當奧豐素1890进 行了一场访谈后，如此写道：「与 Giovanni 并肩而坐，我发现他不仅完美地诠释了这句谚语，他的 言谈举止亦如他酿造的佳酿—— 初时含蓄内敛，继而层层展开，展现出无尽的深度与复杂性。」
The 2023 harvest just concluded. How has climate change affected your vineyards?
When people think about climate change, they often focus solely on heat, but the real drama lies in the extremes. In Barbaresco, we received more than fourteen hundred millimeters of rain this year, while Southern Italy experienced severe drought. We’re seeing more violent weather events with increasing frequency. This September in Tuscany, we received two hundred forty millimeters of rain in just six hours –what we’d typically get in two months. Everything is becoming more unpredictable.
How do you meet these challenges?
Adaptation is our only path forward. While we haven’t changed our grape varieties, we’ve significantly modified our vineyard management. Today, we use rootstocks resistant to drought, whereas my grandfather selected ones resistant to excess water. We’ve adjusted vineyard orientation and canopy management to better protect the grapes. We also focus heavily on research and massal selection to preserve nebbiolo’s genetic heritage while identifying vines that have successfully adapted over time.
You speak of nebbiolo with such reverence. How would you describe its character?
Nebbiolo is a princess – an extremely demanding variety. Of the seven thousand hectares planted worldwide, five thousand are in Barolo and Barbaresco. This shows how deeply connected it is to its birthplace. It needs very specific conditions – the right balance of limestone, clay, sea silt, and sand in the soil. Too much of any component and the vine struggles.
The area around Barbaresco is perfect because we’re surrounded by the Alps to the north and west, which protect us, and the sea lies just sixty kilometers south. This creates a unique mixture of cold and warm winds, generating the fog that nebbiolo needs for proper maturation. It’s a grape that demands everything but rewards patience with incomparable complexity.
“It’s a grape that demands everything but rewards patience with incomparable complexity.
这是一种要求极高的葡萄，但只要给予足够的耐心， 它便会以无与伦比的复杂性作为回报。”
Your family has expanded beyond Piedmont to Tuscany and Sicily. What drove those decisions?
Our first step outside Piedmont was in 1994 when we acquired property in Montalcino. We had just experienced several challenging vintages in Piedmont and we felt ready for a new experience. We chose regions that could produce wines with a true sense of place – wines that maintain their origin and identity while allowing us to express our own interpretation.
In Montalcino and Sicily, we work with indigenous varieties like sangiovese and nerello mascalese that, like nebbiolo, are deeply rooted in their territories. In Bolgheri, though we work with international varieties, we make wines that speak clearly of their origin. When you taste our wines from all three regions, you’ll notice a common thread – they’re not powerful or full-bodied, but rather restrained and focused on delicacy, freshness, and acidity. This comes from our experience with nebbiolo, where acid and tannin provide energy and vitality to the wine.
Your family has been making wine since the 1850s. How has the style evolved?
There’s been a natural evolution that follows how nebbiolo itself has changed. In the 1950s and ’60s, the weather was much colder, making it difficult to achieve proper maturation. My grandfather Giovanni would sometimes keep three or four vintages of Barbaresco, because the wine didn’t reach his quality standards. He established our philosophy of only bottling wine when it truly expressed our vision of excellence.
My father, Angelo, began experimenting in the 1960s, and in 1978, he pioneered aging Barbaresco partly in small barrels and partly in large ones. While he’s been an innovator, he’s always remained respectful of tradition. Even today, we maintain this balance, adjusting the proportion based on what each vintage tells us it needs.
Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards – where time, tradition, and the elements shape Nebbiolo’s depth and complexity. 在Gaja位于巴巴莱斯科的葡萄园，时间、传统与自然共同塑造出内比奥罗葡萄酒的深邃与复杂度。
Your family has a strong history of women in leadership, starting with your great-grandmother Clotilde. How do you continue that legacy?
In Piedmont, women have historically played a dominant role in wine families. My great-grandmother was known as “the general” because she controlled everything, including all the family’s finances. Today, many wineries in the Langhe are run by women, including our own. My sisters, Gaia and Rossana, along with my mother, Lucia, are integral to our operations. Gaia joined in 2004 and quickly became our global ambassador, and Rossana manages our domestic market.
The character of the Langhe people seems deeply connected to the wine.
Absolutely. The people of the Langhe, like nebbiolo, come from a difficult past. Until the 1950s, this was known as the area of “la malora” – the place of misfortune. Putting food on the table wasn’t taken for granted. This history has made the people naturally suspicious – they don’t trust anything that seems too easy. Like nebbiolo, they take time to open up, but once you earn their trust, they become some of the most generous and genuine people you’ll meet.
“For me and my sisters, wine has always been part of our lives.”
What’s your vision for Gaja’s future?
We must cultivate what my father calls “the culture of doubt” – maintaining 30 percent doubt about everything we do. That’s the only way to truly improve. If you believe your current method is the only way, there’s no room for growth. We need to respect tradition while keeping our eyes on the future.
One crucial challenge will be differentiating wine from other alcoholic beverages in the cultural conversation. Wine is unique – its alcohol comes from natural fermentation, and it serves a cultural function that no other beverage can match. When you have an important bottle in your cellar, you don’t open it alone –you share it with people you love, creating memories together.
You clearly inherited your father’s philosophy about wine being more than what’s in the glass.
My father never talks about wine directly. If you ask him to discuss wine, he refuses. Instead, he talks about what’s outside the glass – the culture, the people, the territory. Wine is a lens
through which we understand place and time. As with our wines, patience is required to reveal the true nature of the Langhe people. Initially, they may seem austere, but if you earn their trust, they reward you with extraordinary generosity and authenticity.
What’s your earliest wine memory?
For me and my sisters, wine has always been part of our lives. Work and pleasure were never really separated at home. I remember when my father created Ca’Marcanda in Tuscany – from 1998 onwards, every Friday my parents would pick me up from school and we’d drive to Bolgheri where the winery was under construction. I watched it change and grow, and through that involvement, I understood this was what I wanted to do with my life.
It’s one of my father’s greatest achievements that all three of his children work in the winery today. He never pushed us, but he always involved us in everything he did. Working with family isn’t always easy, but it’s a privilege – one that, like our wines, rewards patience and dedication with moments of extraordinary beauty.
How two friends are rewriting the rules of Indian hospitality.
“EVERYONE SAID WE WERE CRAZY,” Sameer Seth recalls with a laugh, settling into a corner table at The Bombay Canteen. “Two guys leaving good jobs to open a restaurant in Mumbai? And not just any restaurant – we wanted to celebrate local Indian ingredients at a time when fine dining meant copying the West.”
It’s early afternoon, and sunlight streams through the windows of what was once part of an old cotton mill. The space buzzes with the energy of preservice preparation – cooks testing dishes, servers polishing glasses, the gentle clink of plates being arranged.
“When we opened in 2015, this area was dead,” says Seth. “Now there are fifteen restaurants. But for the first sixteen months, we wondered if anyone would understand what we were trying to do.”
「每个人都说我们疯了，」Sameer Seth 在 The Bombay Canteen 的角落桌边坐下，笑着回忆道，「两 个人放弃好工作，在孟买开餐馆？而且不是一家普 通的店，而是在精致餐饮普遍模仿西方的时代，庆 祝当地印度食材。」
His business partner and fellow Cornell graduate, Yash Bhanage, joins us, carrying a tray of house-made pickles. “We were so naive,” he adds, setting down jars filled with vivid colors. “But sometimes being naive is good. If we’d known how hard it would be, maybe we wouldn’t have tried.”
Their story began at Cornell’s hotel school, where they bonded over late-night conversations about the future of Indian restaurants. Both had worked in prestigious establishments – Seth at Bar Boulud in New York, Bhanage at Singapore’s Anti:dote – but they dreamed of creating something different.
“In New York, I saw how Danny Meyer built restaurants that were about community,” Seth explains. “Meanwhile, Yash was winning ‘Best Bar in Singapore’ awards. We knew India was ready for something new, but we wanted it to be authentically Indian.”
Their breakthrough came when they met Chef Floyd Cardoz, already famous as a trailblazer of modern Indian cuisine in New York. “He became our mentor, our guide,” says Bhanage. “He showed us how to be proud of Indian ingredients while pushing them in new directions.”
The Bombay Canteen opened with a radical idea, a menu that changed with the seasons, celebrating regional Indian ingredients and traditions. “People thought we were mad,” Seth recalls. “They’d say, ‘Where’s the butter chicken? Where’s the tikka masala?’ But slowly, they began to understand.”
Success bred ambition. O Pedro followed in 2017, highlighting Goa’s Portuguese-influenced cuisine. Then came Bombay Sweet Shop, reimagining classic Indian confections. Each venture pushed boundaries while honoring traditions.
“The pandemic tested everything,” Bhanage admits. “We lost Floyd, our revenues dropped to almost nothing. But somehow, those dark days brought clarity. We launched five delivery brands just to survive, and we used the time to refine our vision.”
That vision extends beyond just serving food. They’ve created the Floyd Cardoz Scholarship Program to support young Indian chefs. Their online magazine, enthucutlet.com, celebrates India’s diverse food cultures. Their latest venture,
“India’s culinary heritage is so rich, so deep. We have so many more stories to tell, so many more flavors to explore. 印度的烹饪传统如此丰富、 如此深厚。我们还有更 多的故事要讲，还有更 多的味道要探索。”
Yash Bhanage
Veronica’s, transforms a historic Bandra bakery into a neighborhood sandwich shop.
“We’re not trying to build an empire,” insists Seth. “We want to create spaces that mean something to people, that contribute to the community.”
Their approach has earned recognition – The Bombay Canteen debuted at no. 70 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024. “But what matters is that we’re helping change how people see Indian food and hospitality.”
As evening settles over Mumbai, the restaurant comes fully alive. Bhanage moves through the space, greeting guests and adjusting details with the precision he learned as a bartender. Seth chats with a family celebrating their grandmother’s birthday, the kind of moment he watched Danny Meyer create in New York.
“You know what makes me happiest?” Seth reflects, watching the scene. “When guests tell us they feel at home here. That’s what Indian hospitality has always been about – making people feel like family.”
“We’re just getting started,” adds Bhanage with a smile. “India’s culinary heritage is so rich, so deep. We have so many more stories to tell, so many more flavors to explore.”
In the warmth of The Bombay Canteen, watching two friends living out the dreams they once shared in a Cornell classroom, those stories feel not just possible but inevitable.
The Bombay Canteen 餐厅，那里现在挤满了早晚聚 餐的客人，「看看这个 —— 律师和艺术家一起喝酒， 家人庆祝生日，游客探索当地风味。这就是我们在康 奈尔大学时梦想的。」
在 The Bombay Canteen 的温暖氛围中，看着 两位朋友实现他们在康奈尔教室里曾经共同拥有的梦 想，这些故事不仅可能实现，而且是必然会实现。
Sameer Seth
“We’re not trying to build an empire, we want to create spaces that mean something to people, that contribute to the community.
我们不是想建立一个帝国，我们想创造对 人们有意义、对社区有贡献的空间。”
Sameer Seth
VERONICA’S
温暖印象
Above a bustling Mumbai street, a chef’s memories become a culinary tribute.
“THE FIRST TIME CHEF FLOYD cooked for me, he made me taste everything twice.” Hussain Shahzad’s eyes soften at the memory as he spoons a bright orange preserve onto a delicate tart shell. “Not just the final dish – every component, every element. He’d ask, ‘What do you taste? Now taste it again. What else do you notice?’”
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Today, in a tiny twelve-seat restaurant above a Mumbai sandwich shop, Chef Shahzad carries on this tradition. Each evening at Papa’s, named in honor of his late mentor Floyd Cardoz, he guides guests through a similar journey of discovery. “Floyd taught me that every ingredient has a story,”
he says, adding a final garnish to the dish before him. “But more importantly, he taught me that every story has a flavor.”
The restaurant is hidden away in Bandra, a neighborhood where Portuguese-era chapels share narrow lanes with art deco mansions and street-food vendors. To reach it, guests climb a narrow staircase above Veronica’s, passing walls adorned with vintage photographs and worn copper cookware. The space feels more like someone’s home than a restaurant – warm wood tones, soft lighting, and an open kitchen where Chef Shahzad and his small team work with quiet precision.
“When we first saw this space, we knew it was perfect,” says Sameer Seth, who founded Hunger Inc. Hospitality with his Cornell classmate Yash Bhanage. “It had been part of the iconic St. Jude Bakery for decades. You could feel the history in the walls.” He runs his hand along the counter where guests now sit. “This wood? It’s from The Bombay Canteen’s original bar. Every scratch, every mark, tells a story.”
The Bombay Canteen, their first restaurant, opened in 2015 in an old mill compound. It was there that Chef Floyd, already famous for pioneering modern Indian cuisine in New York, joined them as a partner and mentor. “Floyd believed in us when we were just dreamers with a crazy idea,” Bhanage recalls.
“Everyone else was doing European fine dining with Indian touches. We wanted to do the opposite – to celebrate Indian ingredients and traditions, but with a fresh perspective.”
That perspective revealed itself in unexpected ways. Traditional curd rice became a sophisticated creation with goat cheese and pickled beetroot. The humble samosa was reimagined with thinly sliced tuna and chamomile jelly. Each dish carried echoes of memory while stretching toward something new.
“My mother still hasn’t eaten here,” Chef Shahzad admits with a smile. “She says fine-dining restaurants make her nervous. But everything I cook is inspired by her kitchen, by the flavors I grew up with.” He’s plating what appears to be a Wellington, but instead of beef, it celebrates Kashmiri flavors
– lamb infused with fiery marchwangan korma, wrapped in haakh leaves, and enriched with morel mushrooms.
The pandemic hit them hard. Revenues dropped, and in the midst of it all, they lost Chef Floyd. “Those were dark days,” Seth says quietly. “But somehow, they also brought clarity. We realized that Papa’s had to be more than just another restaurant. It had to be a tribute, a way to carry forward everything Floyd taught us.”
General Manager Madhusudhan Kashyap left San Francisco’s acclaimed Quince to run Papa’s. “They told me this wouldn’t be a normal fine-dining restaurant,” he says. “They wanted it to feel like being invited to someone’s home for dinner. Chef Shahzad is not just preparing food – he’s sharing memories.”
Those memories surface throughout the evening in unexpected ways. A dish named Bebinca arrives – though it bears little resemblance to the traditional Goan layered cake. Instead, it’s a savory interpretation: celeriac and white truffle served in a caraway tart with sherry date puree.
As night falls, the energy in the tiny space shifts. The kitchen counter becomes a stage where each dish tells its
story. A businessman who flies in from Delhi for dinner chats with other guests like old friends. A young couple celebrating a birthday tears up at tasting a dish that reminds them of childhood.
“That’s what Floyd always said,” Bhanage reflects. “Food isn’t just about taste – it’s about connection. Every dish should take you somewhere, remind you of something, make you feel something.”
The evening’s final course is a playful creation that elevates potato chips with truffle honey and Champagne sabayon. “In Indian-Chinese restaurants, they always serve honey noodles with ice cream for dessert,” Chef Shahzad explains. “This is our tribute to those memories, but reimagined through a different lens.”
It’s clear that something special is happening here in this intimate space above a Bandra sandwich shop. Past and present merge, traditions transform, and a beloved mentor’s legacy lives on in every dish that leaves the kitchen.
“Sometimes,” Chef Shahzad says, “I think I hear Floyd’s voice asking me to taste everything twice, to look deeper. That’s what we’re trying to do here at Papa’s – to make people taste their memories twice, to help them discover something new in something familiar.”
A pastry chef travels India to recover the vanishing art of traditional sweets.
“IN KOLKATA, the milk is different because of what the cows eat,” Girish Nayak explains, unwrapping a piece of fresh mithai. “The fat content is higher, which makes the sweets creamier. These are the kinds of details that were disappearing.”
Seventeen years ago, Nayak’s journey into sweets began when his mother wouldn’t let him sit idle at home. She sent him to work at a local sweetshop, where he spent a year learning under a skilled artisan. That experience sparked a passion that would take him to New York’s Culinary Institute of America and eventually back to India, where he spent a year and a half traveling the country to learn from makers of traditional sweets.
“Many were surprised that someone wanted to learn these techniques,” he says. “They’re very laborintensive, and most young chefs are more fascinated by French pastry.” But the artisans shared their knowledge, teaching him secrets passed down through generations.
Now, as head pastry chef at Bombay Sweet Shop, Nayak leads a team of thirty-five skilled craftsmen, creating confections that honor tradition while embracing innovation. In his experimental kitchen, traditional candy-making techniques merge with Westerninspired presentations. Pepper caramel and coconut, for example, combine in a sophisticated take on a Bounty bar.
The heart of his work, however, remains deeply traditional. Every morning at five thirty, his team begins production for three locations across Mumbai. Each recipe must be adjusted for local ingredients – the milk in Mumbai is collected from multiple sources and behaves differently than the farm-fresh buffalo milk of Uttar Pradesh or the high-fat milk of Bengal.
“The recipes aren’t written down,” Nayak says, offering a freshly made sample. “You have to learn by doing, by understanding how ingredients change from region to region.” He pauses and adds with a smile, “I’m writing them down now, but they keep changing. That’s the beauty of working with real ingredients.”
