H K D 120 | MOP 120 | R MB 120 | N TD4 8 0 | S G D 2 1 | U S D 1 5 | £ /G B P 1 3
T A S T I N G 54
K I T C H E N
F O R E S T S
B L U E
TOWADA Myth of the Forest 森林神话
OMA King of the Sea 海洋之王
TAKKO Black Diamonds 青森黑钻
T A S T I N G 54
K I T C H E N
F O R E S T S
B L U E
Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures. Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。 Tasting Kitchen Limited • www.tasting-kitchen.com SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室 HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室 MACAU: Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde, Rés-do-chão C, Macau • 澳门和隆街 2 号晶品艺楹地面 C 座
Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com
Joey Cheang
David Hartung
Alicia Beebe
Elaine Wong
Jaakko Sorsa
DEPUTY PUBLISHER 副出版人
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监
ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监
CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER 营销总监 elaine@tasting-kitchen.com
OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com
joey@tasting-kitchen.com
J. Carl Kerkman, MFA
Jessica Sin
John Ng
Jonna Chen
IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑
REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR 区域业务总监
WINE & SPIRITS DIRECTOR 葡萄酒及烈酒总监
ACCOUNTS MANAGER 客户经理
Kate Nicholson
Phoebe Yeung
Eleanor Hawkins
Amber Qian
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏
SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR 高级客戶总监
REGIONAL EVENTS DIRECTOR 区域活动策划总监
MARCOM MANAGER, MAINLAND CHINA 市场传讯经理
HEAD OF NEW MEDIA 新媒体总监
CHINESE EDITOR 中文编辑
Lucy Morgan Chris Dwyer Joyce Kwok Nicole Slater Miyako Kai Huang Shan
Kerri Cheang
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家
SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑
Zita Wan Vivian Pun Victoria Lei ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑
Violien Ng
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT 编辑部助理
ON THE COVER
Photography by David Hartung Eric Räty, a fan of Aomori’s high-quality ingredients, is chef-owner of two-Michelin-star Nordic restaurant Arbor in Hong Kong. His dish Tuna & Caviar hides soy-marinated Oma Tuna from Aomori inside a folded green pancake made with nettle, a popular herb in his Finnish homeland. A caviar topping adds extra umami. 香港米其林二星餐厅Arbor的主厨Eric Räty一直热衷于使 用日本青森县优质食材入馔。他用家乡的香草荨麻制成 绿色薄饼，再以大豆来腌制来自青森县的大间金枪鱼， 放在折叠的薄饼中。最后放上鱼子酱，增添海洋鲜味。
2 | TK | forests blue
Fiona Lee
Eddie Cheung EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地编辑总监
Edison Xia EDITOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地编辑
GROUP ADVERTISING 广告查询 sales@tasting-kitchen.com SUBSCRIPTIONS 订阅查询 subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com TRANSLATION SERVICES 翻译服务 Babel Communications jonna@babel.com.tw PRINTING 印刷 Asia One Printing Limited 宏亚印务有限公司
©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2023 All rights reserved
DAVID HARTUNG
Mamie Chen Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley
A playful version of Chef Eric Räty’s Tuna & Caviar, shown on the cover, tops a nettle-flavored pancake in the shape of Aomori Prefecture with Oma Tuna and caviar. For an added kick, horseradish serves as Western-style wasabi. 这是封面菜式的特别版本。主厨Eric Räty 将荨麻薄饼做成青森县的形状，放上大 间金枪鱼和鱼子酱。为了带来味蕾上的刺 激，主厨加入辣根，作为西式的芥末。
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
3
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
Welcome to Tasting Kitchen (TK). TK 54’s evocative title, Forests Blue , is suggested by our featured travel destination, Japan’s Aomori Prefecture, whose name translates as “blue forest.” On the northern tip of Japan’s main island of Honshu, Aomori is a lushly wooded region of remarkable natural beauty surrounded on three sides by blue seas, a unique place that offers endless avenues for exploration. In this issue, we learn about Aomori’s bounty of exceptional-quality produce and seafood, starting with its most acclaimed product, Oma Tuna, which must be caught within five kilometers of the town of Oma on Tsugaru Strait. Other stories highlight Aomori’s premium-quality horsemeat as prepared by a creative chef in Towada City, its sought-after black garlic produced by slow fermentation, and an omakase restaurant in Aomori City whose chef makes the most of the region’s distinctive ingredients. Two of Aomori’s most unusual places to stay are presented in stories about a luxury resort in spectacular Oirase Gorge and a tiny boutique hotel fashioned from a traditional Japanese farmhouse. The area’s fascinating ancient history is revealed in “Land of Riches,” detailing the Sannai Maruyama UNESCO World Heritage Site, a reconstructed Jōmonperiod village that flourished around the time of Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid. Aomori’s thriving contemporary cultural scene comes to life in features about a passionate creator of giant paper lanterns for the famous annual Aomori Nebuta Matsuri festival and a potter who pushes the boundaries of an ancient craft to produce works of unpredictable beauty. Forests Blue , of course, also looks beyond Aomori with an array of TK stories from around the world covering the latest in food, drink, and luxury accommodations, including some at the top of the first-ever list of The World’s 50 Best Hotels.
亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。 本期 TK 以富有意境的「青之森」 为题，介绍旅游景点 —— 日本青森县。 青森位于日本本州岛北端，三面 环海、林木茂密，自然景观更是得天 独厚，有无数的景点让人一探究竟。 在本期中，我们介绍了青森丰富 的优质农产品和海鲜。首先介绍的是 青森特产 —— 大间金枪鱼，这种金枪 鱼必须在津轻海峡沿岸的大间崎方圆 五公里内捕捞。其他精彩内容包括由 十和田市一位富有创意的厨师所制作 的优质马肉料理、深受大家欢迎的熟 成黑蒜，以及一间严选青森特色食材 的板前料理餐厅。 本期内容还包括两间青森特色住 宿 ：一间是位于奥入濑溪流的奢华度 假村，另一间则是由传统日式农舍改 建而成的精品旅馆。 在「丰饶之境」一文中，我们带 您一窥当地迷人的古历史遗迹，介绍 由联合国教科文组织认定的世界遗产
—— 三内丸山遗址。这个绳文时期村落 在巨石阵和金字塔时代进入繁盛时期， 留下不少文化瑰宝。 我们也会带您体验青森蓬勃发展 的当代文化场景，包括一位富有热情 的睡魔灯笼师，以及一位大胆实验传 统工艺「不可预期之美」的陶艺家。 除了青森，本期亦放眼全球，集 结来自世界各地的美酒美馔和奢华住 宿的最新动态，其中包括首届「全球
50 最佳酒店」名单中名列前茅的酒店。 请享受悦读时光。
MARK HAMMONS
4 | TK | forests blue
CONTENTS
8 Natural Surprises • 12 Silent Rhythm • 16 Radiant Passion • 20 Zesty Pairings • 40 Emotional Expressions 42 Sushi Shuhari • 50 Mushroom Magic • 58 A Tradition Reborn • 66 Ingredient Deep Dive 72 Myth of the Forest • 78 Land of Riches • 90 King of the Sea
8
12
16
20
40
42
50
58
66
78
6 | TK | forests blue
90
72
CONTENTS
94 Horsemeat, Samurai Style • 96 Black Diamonds • 100 Poetry on a Plate • 102 Elegance and Surprises • 112 Sipping the Seasons 114 Renaissance of American Spirits • 120 Two Worlds Meet • 124 Blending Journeys • 128 East-West Hospitality • 130 Stratospheric Luxury 132 History and Luxury • 134 Staying in Style • 158 Formosa’s Finest • 160 Tranquility and Transformation • 168 New at Ninety
94
100
96
102
112
114
120
124
128
130
132
134
158
160
168 forests blue | TK | 7
天然触动
natural surprises In Japan’s Aomori Prefecture, Rikei Imai creates unpredictably beautiful ash-glazed pottery.
A jar inspired by the Heian period 受平安时代启发而创作的广口瓶
8 | TK | FORESTS BLUE
INSPIRED LIVING
↑↑
↑
↑↑
↑
Pottery tools handcarved from red pine
Tsugaru Ujoyaki’s fifty-twochamber anagama kiln, the longest of its kind in the world
Wooden paddles used to give texture to Imai’s hand-built vessels
Stoking the flames in one of Tsugaru Ujoyaki’s wood-fired kilns
今井用木桨为手工制作 的器皿赋予质感
津轻乌城烧其中一个燃木窑正在燃烧
用红松木手工雕刻的陶器工具
COURTESY OF TSUGARU UJOYAKI (5)
津轻乌城烧有52階登窑， 为世界上同类登窑中最长的
对于津轻「乌城烧」的七旬创始人今井理 PUSHING BOUNDARIES in an ancient craft is something that comes 桂而言，突破界限是再自然不过的事。他 naturally to Rikei Imai, the septuagenarian founder of Tsugaru Ujoyaki, 2018 年建造了世界上同类窑炉中最长的登 a pottery in the city of Tsugaru. In 2019, he constructed the longest kiln 窑 － 这 座 破 纪 录， 拥 有 52 阶、 of its kind in the world, a record-breaking fifty-two-chamber, 米的登窑，一路延伸至今井 103 103-meter-long noborigama kiln that roars its way up the BY 工作室后方的山坡上。目前日本 slope behind his studio. By comparison, most climbing kilns KATE NICHOLSON 大多数的登窑，最多也才三至四 in Japan have just three or four chambers. “Everything Imai 阶。经销津轻乌城烧的日本当代工艺品网路 does is driven by a passion for wanting to see something he’s never seen 售卖店「奥心舎」执行长斋藤贵晴说 ： 「今 before, that nobody has ever seen before,” says Takaharu Saito, director of 井的这番成就，都是出于他渴望创造新事物 Oshinsha, an online Japanese contemporary craft store that sells Tsugaru 的热情。 」 Ujoyaki pieces internationally. FORESTS BLUE | TK |
9
INSPIRED LIVING
Finishing the rim on a large vase in the studio 在工作室中为一个大花瓶的边缘作最后修整
which won the Prime Minister’s Award. The studio‘s museum has an extensive collection of antique tea ware and other vessels dating back as far as the Heian period. And while Imai uses the more modern potter’s wheel, he also takes inspiration from the work of Japan’s most ancient potters and creates larger vessels, including vases, by a hand method known as tataki . Needed tools, such as paddles and anvils in various sizes and patterns, he crafts himself from akamatsu , or red pine, the same wood that is burned in the studio’s kilns. Recently, Imai’s son left the restaurant industry to apprentice under his father, and other family members fill roles at the pottery, from sales to graphic design. They’re also working with Oshinsha to open the studio to experiential tourism, so that visitors can explore firsthand this ancient art.
10 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
比起使用现今普遍的电窑或瓦斯窑，今井深 爱以柴烧的传统工艺制陶。随着炉内燃起熊熊烈 火，木材燃烧后产生的灰烬会随炉内气流运动， 最终覆盖在炉内小心堆放的容器表面上。当窑内 温度升至高达摄氏 1400 度，木灰融化，成为天然 灰釉。因此，陶器烧制完成后的色调和纹路，直 到开窑前都是不可预测的。每次打开窑炉，今井 也因所得到的惊喜而欣喜若狂，这正实践着日本 「侘寂」美学，拥抱有缺陷的美。 斋藤说 ： 「侘寂的概念，是由茶道宗师千利休 提出。因此，侘寂和茶道的概念其实是息息相关 的。 」从今井刻意歪斜的小型茶碗和酒具作品，乃 至于他的重要代表作，都可以体现今井深受侘寂 之美的哲学影响。其中，也包括了今井荣获内阁 总理大臣赏的作品《通往净土之路贰》 。 今井的工作室收藏大量古董茶器及其他器皿， 最早可以追溯到日本平安时代。虽然今井使用现 代的陶轮进行陶艺创作，但他也从钻研日本陶艺 古物的经历中汲取灵感，进行花瓶等大型陶器的 」的手法创作 创作，他以一种名为「tataki（敲打） 陶器。这种制陶工法所需的工具，像是不同尺寸 和图案的槌板和砧板，都是今井以红松木手工制 作，这也正是今井工作室窑炉中使用的木材种类。
2018 年 底， 今 井 的 儿 子 今 井 靖 典 离 开 了 餐 饮业，转行成为父亲的学徒，而其他家庭成员也 投身经营今井的陶器品牌，协助销售及平面设计。 此外，他们也和「奥心舎」合作，开放工作室给 游客体验这项历史悠久的艺术。
COURTESY OF TSUGARU UJOYAKI (5)
Imai prefers traditional wood firing over typical electric or gas kilns. As flames rage inside the kiln, ash from the burning wood is pulled through the chambers by cross drafts, coating vessels that have been carefully piled within. The temperature rises, reaching as high as 1400˚C, and the ash melts into a natural glaze. The resulting hues and depositions are wholly unpredictable. Imai, who thrives on the surprises he gets each time he opens the kiln, embraces the Japanese aesthetic of wabi-sabi , or flawed beauty. “The concept was introduced by Sen no Rikyu, the same person who established the tea ceremony as an art form,” notes Saito, ”so the two ideas are closely related.” Wabi-sabi influence is seen in Imai’s simple pieces, like his intentionally askew tea bowls and sake sets, and right through to his representative works, including a series inspired by Buddhist ritualistic vessels, Road to Pure Land Number 2 ,
Three examples of unpredictable ash glazes produced by wood-firing 三个由木材烧制而成的作品， 是烧制纹路不可预测的例子
A vase inspired by Imai’s fascination with ancient Japanese pottery forms 今井热爱日本古代陶器， 受其启发创作花瓶作品
寂静之声
silent rhythm Artfully crafted from the shell of a traditional 1950s Japanese farmhouse, boutique hotel KOMORU Goshogawara offers guests serene simplicity. BY KATE NICHOLSON
DESIGN
N E S T L E D B E T W E E N T H E F O O T H I L L S of Mount Bonjyu and the shores of the Iwaki River in Goshogawara, a small city of fifty-thousand-plus residents in Japan’s Aomori Prefecture, is KOMORU Goshogawara. The Japanese word komoru , meaning “to seclude oneself,” is an apt moniker for a guest house that celebrates the beauty of quiet reflection in a quaint residential area on the outskirts of town. That it was once a traditional Japanese home is evident in those elements that have been retained in what was virtually a complete renovation – work overseen by Japanese designer Shotaro Oshima of Shotaro Oshima Design Studio (SODS). An example is Oshima’s decision to keep the traditional tokonoma , or recessed keepsake display area, in what is now room 104. “The interior,” he says, “focuses on privacy and simplicity rather than grand amenities.” Indeed, the hotel has just five rooms, hosting a limit of two guests each, and shared bathroom facilities.
KOMORU 坐落于青森县五所川原市，这座小城位于 梵珠山和岩木川之间，约有五万多位居民。旅馆的 ，有「隐居」之 名称源自日语的「笼る」 （komoru） 意，恰好与旅馆所处的市郊古雅住宅区幽静的氛围 相呼应。 旅馆的前身是传统的日本房舍，后由日本设 计 师 大 岛 颂 太 郎 的 Shotaro Oshima Design Studio （SODS）工作室负责屋舍改建，并保留了许多传统 The hotel design prioritizes local building materials, like prized Aomori hiba wood, featured throughout the guest and public spaces. 旅馆的客房和公共空间设计优先使用当 地建筑材料，例如珍贵的青森桧木。
元素。举例来说，大岛颂太郎决定在 104 号房保留 ，这是传统日本屋舍 传统的「床の间」 （tokonoma） 常见的内嵌型展物空间。他说 ： 「室内设计不追求华 丽，重点在于隐私和简约。 」旅馆只有五间房间，每 间最多可容纳两位旅客，并提供公共盥洗设备。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 13
KOMORU Goshogawara is in a renovated 1950s farmhouse that was abandoned five years ago. 旅馆的前身为一栋1950年代的农舍，在五年前被废弃。现已经过翻修并重新开业。
ing time-tested building practices and materials is long-standing. The design of the u-shaped private gardens that extend from three of the guest rooms was influenced by the floor plan of the Villa Giulia in Rome, a site the designer experienced firsthand in his travels. But, as Oshima notes, “a memorable spatial experience is not created through architecture alone.” How a dining table is constructed influences how one eats, he says, and a writing desk affects one’s expression with a pen. The enormous rosewood-finish dining table with its built-in hob and Kazan (meaning “volcano”) benches, the floor-level Fuzukue TEI writing desks in the guest rooms, and the Fin Shelf shoe cabinets are bespoke designs by SODS in collaboration with Aomori craftspeople and manufacturers. “To me, a piece of furniture is art, like a sculpture,” says Oshima. “If space creates silence, furniture creates a beautiful rhythm in that space.”
14 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
虽然这间旅馆的风格乍看之下非常日式， 实际上许多空间上的巧思都从本地和国际旅客的 角度进行考量。大岛颂太郎对于历史文物保存的 重视，源于他在英国累积的建筑训练，因此他相 当重视建筑工法和建材是否能经得起时间的考 验。他根据自己在罗马旅游的经验，以茱莉亚别 墅（Villa Giulia）的建筑概念为核心，设计出三 间客房独特的 U 形私人花园。 不过，大岛颂太郎也说 ： 「若要创造难忘的 空间体验，不能只单靠建筑物。 」他认为餐桌的 设计会影响用餐的方式，而书桌的设计会影响人 如何提笔表达。旅馆内许多富有巧思的设计，像 （有「火山」之意） 是附有内置炉灶和「Kazan」 长椅的大型檀木餐桌、客房内的 Fuzukue TEI 写 字矮桌，以及 Fin Shelf 鞋柜，都是由 SODS 与青 森的当地工匠和工厂共同打造。他表示 ： 「对我 而言，家具就像雕塑一样，是艺术品。即使空间 本身一片寂静，家具也可以带来动人的节奏。 」
COURTESY SHOTARO OSHIMA DESIGN STUDIO (3 + PRECEDING PAGE )
While the hotel seems wholly Japanese at first glance, it has been, in fact, created with both local and international guests in mind. The heavy focus on historical preservation stems from Oshima’s years spent studying and working as an architect in the UK, where respect-
DESIGN
Guests are provided with breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks, all of which include vegetables harvested from the hotel’s gardens and other produce from regional providers. The menu, which varies across the seasons, includes rice steamed in earthenware pots; homemade pickles like sujiko , tarako , and kinpira ; miso soup; and various main dishes. Drinks, including shiso and apple juices, are crafted in-house. KOMORU’s ethos is one of highly localized sustainability, and the design prioritizes local building materials, including prized Aomori hiba wood and, in the gardens, Sanbaseki stone, a crystalline schist that shines green when wet. Oshima and the hotel’s owners chose to work exclusively with local architects and contractors to buoy job opportunities in the area with what was, he says, “a challenging task that enhanced the local building skills. We wanted to ensure that our use of currently available resources didn’t have detrimental effects on our collective well-being.”
旅馆会使用花园自家栽种的蔬菜及其他当 地食材，为旅客准备早、午、晚三餐及小食。菜 单随季节变换，主要为石锅饭、手作渍物（生 筋子、鳕鱼子和金平） 、味噌汤及各式主菜。附 餐饮品可选择手工制作的紫苏汁或苹果汁。 KOMORU 重视当地化和可持续发展，建造 过程中优先使用当地建材，包括珍贵的青森桧 木及花园里使用的「三波石」—— 这种岩石在潮 湿时会呈现绿色光泽。设计师和旅馆业主与当 地建筑师和承包商合作，为当地人提供更多工 作机会。大岛颂太郎说 ： 「这是一项充满挑战性 的任务，目标是提升当地建筑工艺品质。此外， 我们也希望确保当前的资源运用不会对当地产 生不良影响。 」
The enormous rosewood-finish dining table with built-in hob was custom-designed by Shotaro Oshima.
The design of the u-shaped private gardens extending from three of the guest rooms was influenced by the floor plan of the Villa Giulia in Rome.
带有内置炉灶的巨大檀木餐桌由大岛颂太郎定制设计。
三间客房的U形私人庭园设计以罗马茱莉亚别墅平面图为灵感。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 15
ART
纸与光的祭典
radiant passion With consummate artistry, a Japanese creator of Nebuta floats reveals the emotional power of paper and light.
IN THE DARKNESS of a summer night in Aomori, gigantic lantern characters – legendary warriors, elegant goddesses, and fierce imaginary beasts – parade through town, glowing brilliantly on more than two dozen carts accompanied by lively dancers and musicians. This is the Aomori Nebuta Matsuri, one of the country’s most popular festivals, attracting more than two million visitors every August. The Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse in Aomori City is the perfect place for a year-round, up-close view of Nebuta floats and the breathtaking details BY of these dramatic three-dimensional paper MIYAKO KAI sculptures. • Hiroo Takenami, Nebuta champion PHOTOGRAPHY BY in 2022 and 2023, is among the greatest DAVID HARTUNG Nebuta creators of all time. “There are so many paper lantern festivals all over Asia,” he says, “but Nebuta has evolved a unique style in scale and artistry because of its freedom from social hierarchy. Anyone from anywhere can join if they have a passion for it. There are only three rules: washi paper must be used, the lanterns must be lit from within, and no mechanical movement is allowed.” Takenami’s award-winning Ryuo (“dragon king”) from 2022 is
a masterpiece of vibrant color and action that make the characters seem to jump from the scene. “Nebuta’s detailed expressions have advanced so much after replacing bamboo sticks in the 1960s with wires to create the frameworks and switching from candles to electric bulbs and now to LEDs,” he explains. “In this Nebuta, I used LED tapes for the first time to make slimmer, flexible shapes and create the effect of splashing water.”
Ryuo (”dragon king”) is a 2022 award-winning masterpiece by Hiroo Takenami. 「龙王」是竹浪比吕央 2022 年的获奖大作。
4 | TK | FORESTS BLUE
Nebuta floats usually depict mythological or historical scenes and express wishes for good fortune. 睡魔灯笼的制作主题多数是描绘 神话或历史场景，以祈求好运。
Takenami fell in love with Nebuta at a festival in his hometown at the age of four, and soon his parents started bringing him to the main Nebuta Festival in Aomori City every year. “When we design a Nebuta,” he says, “we need to jam-pack a space nine by seven by five meters, intricately combining different elements. In Ryuo , for example, there are two kings, dragons, water splashes, clouds, and a goddess, leaving little empty space, so as to fuel up the energy.” Takenami spends around a year finalizing a design before starting to create small parts with his apprentices in March. Once a temporary studio is constructed by a festival organizer in May or June, he starts
6 | TK | forests blue
在夏夜的青森市街道上，一系列夺目的巨型灯笼以传奇武士、高贵女神 及神话怪兽造型闪亮登场，并架设于逾二十台大型山车在街上巡游，舞 者与乐师随着山车一边起舞一边前行。这是日本最受欢迎的夏日祭典 – 「青森睡魔祭」 ，每年八月吸引超过二百万游客来参加这项热闹的盛事。 青森市的睡魔之家展示了这个年度祭典中出场的巨型睡魔灯笼，游 客能近距离欣赏这些栩栩如生、充满戏剧张力的立体工艺细节。 竹浪比吕央于 2022 年与 2023 年蝉联「睡魔大赏」的冠军，被认为 是历来最出色的睡魔灯笼师。他表示 ： 「亚洲有许多大型的灯笼庆典，但 『睡魔祭』在规模或精致工艺方面都属独一无二。它不讲究社会阶级，无 论你来自何方，只要你有对灯笼的热情就能参与。睡魔灯笼只有三个制 作规定 ：使用和纸、灯笼要从内部点亮、不可使用机动装置。 」 他的得奖名作「龙王」色彩鲜艳，人物姿态栩栩如生。他说 ： 「1960 年代，大家以铁丝取代竹枝来制作灯笼框架，各种细节精致度大幅跃升。 照明用具也从蜡烛改为电灯泡，近年又改为 LED 灯。在这个作品中，我 首次使用 LED 灯带，让它更精巧、形状更灵活，做出水花四溅的效果。 」
ART
An award-winning float created by Takashi Kitamura is displayed at the Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse, opened in 2011 to share the history and beauty of the festival throughout the year. 睡魔之家成立于2011年，展示 睡魔祭的历史和美丽之处，大 厅展示了每年获奖的睡魔灯笼 山车。这是由另一位睡魔灯笼 师北村隆创作的睡魔灯笼。
Master Nebuta creator Hiroo Takenami, now 63 years old, endlessly pursues new expressions of his art. 睡魔灯笼大师竹浪比吕央目前已 经六十三岁，仍然在这个领域 挖掘更多新的艺术表达形式。
building the entire Nebuta with the help of forty people. “Even though Nebuta is an Intangible Cultural Heritage in Japan and Nebuta creators are respected, it has never been recognized as a proper occupation,” says Takenami. “After working as a pharmacist and making one Nebuta a year for ten years, I stopped denying my true calling and became a full-time creator.” To raise the status of the art, he founded the Hiroo Takenami Nebuta Institute and has expanded Nebuta’s horizons with commissioned design projects, including his hanging paper sculptures of the wind and thunder gods displayed in Tokyo Station from 2020 to 2022.
在竹浪比吕央四岁时，他在家乡的祭典中看到睡魔灯笼，从此产生浓 厚兴趣。后来，父母每年都会带他到最大型的青森市睡魔祭典。 他介绍 ： 「设计睡魔灯笼时，必须将所有的元素都安排在宽 9 米、高 5 米、长 7 米的范围内，例如在『龙王』中，共有两名帝王、蛟龙、浪花、 云朵和女神等众多元素，要将空间利用到极致，同时将各元素的戏剧张力 最大化。 」竹浪比吕央会花一年左右的时间将设计拍板定案，三月起着手 跟学徒制作作品细节，等到五、六月，祭典主办单位设立临时工作室后， 他才会与其他四十位工作人员开始制作整座灯笼。 竹浪比吕央指出 ： 「睡魔灯笼已被指定为日本重要无形民俗文化遗产， 睡魔灯笼师也备受各界尊崇，但这始终不是一项正式的职业。过去十年， 我担任药剂师，每年只制作一座睡魔灯笼，后来我决定正视内心的呼喊， 毅然辞去工作，专职成为睡魔灯笼师。 」他成立了竹浪比吕央睡魔灯笼研 究所，希望提升这项艺术。他也透过制作睡魔灯笼来拓展它的艺术视野， 比如接受委托制作风神、雷神的纸雕，该作品更在 2020 年至 2022 年间悬 挂于东京车站中展出。 forests blue | TK | 7
20 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
PRESENTED BY KRUG
热忱之美
Z
ESTY PAIRING
S
Hong Kong’s eight Krug Ambassade Chefs display their skill and originality by creating make-at-home recipes that masterfully match lemon with incomparable Krug Champagnes. BY MAMIE CHEN
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
21
T H E H O U S E O F K R U G pays tribute each year to a humble Single Ingredient, and in 2023, it has celebrated that most versatile of citrus fruits by launching its global Krug x Lemon campaign in Hong Kong. Each Krug Ambassade Chef from a city famed for gastronomy has created a unique lemon dish that beautifully pairs with either Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition, “the most generous expression of Champagne,” or Krug Rosé 27ème Édition, a sumptuous balancing act between finesse and substance. The recipes of the Hong Kong Chefs below, as well as those of Krug Ambassade Chefs from around the world, are beautifully collected in The Zest Is Yet to Come . More than a cookbook, it is an encounter between Krug Cellar Master Julie Cavil and the Chefs, who demonstrate the boundless inspiration that is unleashed when life hands out lemons. Both of the Krug Champagnes paired with the Chefs’ dishes share a noble heritage that began with the founding of the House of Krug. Since 1843, Krug Grande Cuvée has embodied the vision of the House’s founder, Joseph Krug. Beyond the notion of vintage, Krug Grande Cuvée is an extraordinary blend of over 120 wines from more than 10 different years. Each year, one blend, one bottling, and one new Édition of Krug Grande Cuvée comes to life. Krug Grande Cuvée is an ideal match for original, refined gastronomy. Krug Rosé is the emblem of the recreation of the highest expression of pleasure at each harvest. Combining elegance and finesse, Krug Rosé dances a perfect tango with savory dishes of all kinds, replacing with brio a good red wine at the table. Especially suited for unexpected food pairings, the wonderfully expressive glass rises to the challenge of the most daring and sumptuous combinations – like the varied interpretations of lemon from Hong Kong and around the globe.
22 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
库克酒庄每年都会向一种独特 的 食 材 致 敬。2023 年， 库 克 在 香港推出库克香槟搭配柠檬的 「Krug x Lemon」 全 球 系 列 活 动，欢庆这种用途广泛的柑橘类 水果。每位来自美食之都香港的 库克名厨大使都精心制作了一道 独特的柠檬菜肴，以搭配库克陈 年香槟（Grande Cuvée 171ème
Édition）「最丰富的香槟特质」， 以及完美呈现酿酒工艺的库克 粉 红 香 槟（Krug Rosé 27ème
Édition）。 《The Zest Is Yet to Come》 收录了以下香港主厨与世界各地 的库克名厨大使的精美菜肴。这 不仅是一本食谱，更是库克酒庄 首席酿酒师 Julie Cavil 与由平凡 的柠檬激发出无限灵感的主厨们 的一次邂逅。 与主厨菜肴搭配的两款库 克 香 槟， 都 依 然 秉 承 库 克 酒 庄 创立之初的理念。自 1843 年以 来，库克陈年香槟 Krug Grande Cuvée 就 体 现 了 库 克 酒 庄 创 始 人 Joseph Krug 的 愿 景。Krug
Grande Cuvée 跳 脱 传 统 根 据 年 份酿造葡萄酒的概念，融合来自 十多个不同年份的 120 多种葡萄 酒。每年，酒庄都会推出一款混 合 酒、 一 款 陈 酒， 以 及 一 款 全 新 的 Krug Grande Cuvée。Krug
Grande Cuvée 非 常 适 合 用 来 搭 配精致的原创料理。 库 克 粉 红 香 槟 Krug Rosé 象 征 每 次 收 成 时 的 愉 悦 感 受。
Krug Rosé 集优雅与细腻于一身， 与各种美味菜式相得益彰，绝对 能媲美餐桌上的顶级红葡萄酒。 这款表现力十足的酒品尤其适合 搭配风格特殊出众的美食，能完 美胜任跳脱框架、丰富多样的搭 配挑战，像是香港与世界各地名 厨端出的各式柠檬菜肴。
PRESENTED BY KRUG
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
23
“Our work is our passion and full of zest – that in turn makes our guests’ experience even happier.
我们的工作充满热情与干劲， 这也会让顾客有更愉快的体验。” GUILLAUME GALLIOT
24 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
PRESENTED BY KRUG
GUILL AUME
HALLIOT
CAPRICE
Japanese squid cooked with lemon butter, celeriac, and lemon 日本鱿鱼搭配柠檬黄油与根芹菜
Champagne pairing Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition adds acidity and another layer of complexity to complement the savory taste of this dish. / Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition 为这 道菜增加了酸度及味觉层次，与它的鲜味相得益彰。
Lemon pairing I like to follow the seasons, and now is the peak season for the Nice lemon. I love it because it is very fragrant but very delicate at the same time. / 我喜欢跟着时令而 行，现在正是上好柠檬的旺季。我很喜欢这款柠檬，它香味芬芳，同时又很细腻雅致。
If you were a lemon, what type would you be? 如果您是柠檬，会是哪一种？
I am tasteful like a Menton lemon. But I also consider myself a zesty lemon, because we are full of passion and zest in our work, which makes our guests’ experience even happier. / 我会跟芒通柠檬一样有品味，但我也觉得自己是一颗热情洋溢的柠檬， 因为我们的工作充满热情与干劲，这也会让顾客有更愉快的体验。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 25
PRESENTED BY KRUG
UMBERTO
BO M B A NA 8½ OT TO E MEZZO BOMBANA
CHAMPAGNE PAIRING I believe in simplicity, and our simple artisanal spaghetti releases a natural starch that makes a great connection and combination with the lemon’s sweetness and acidity. Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition provides vivacious and elegant bubbles and complements the pasta’s unique texture. / 我相信简单就是美。Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition 与这款 经典菜肴的口感相互搭配，酒体活泼 而优雅的气泡让味觉的层次更丰富。
LEMON PAIRING I’m Italian, and the lemons from the coast of Amalfi are an iconic fruit of Italy. They’re one of the best citrus fruits in the world, with a great aroma that is perfect for cooking. / 我是意 大利人，阿玛菲海岸的柠檬是意大利 的标志性水果。这种柠檬是世界上最 棒的柑橘类水果之一，香气扑鼻，非 常适合入馔。 Spaghetti with Amalfi lemon and natural nutritional yeast 阿玛菲柠檬意大利面佐天然营养酵母
26 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
IF YOU WERE A LEMON, WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU BE? 如果您是柠檬，会是哪一种？ Of course I would be an Amalfi lemon. Some people might think it is too large, wrinkly, and ugly and that its skin is not attractive. But inside, it’s juicy and the flavor is wonderful. I think that reflects how many people, including myself, sometimes feel about themselves. In a way, the Amalfi lemon is a good lesson about how we should appreciate the quality of what is inside, rather than judging something based on superficial looks. / 当然是阿玛菲柠檬。有些人可能会觉得这种柠 檬太大颗、皱巴巴、不美观，表皮也不讨喜。但它的果 肉多汁，风味绝佳。我认为这反映了许多人有时候对自 己抱持的感觉，我当然也不例外。某种程度上来说，阿 玛菲柠檬给我们上了很棒的一课，告诉我们应该欣赏事
“Often people think the most complicated dishes are the best, but it’s a good test for a chef to make something great and also so simple that everyone can re-create it at home.
大家通常认为复杂的料理才是好 的，但对于厨师来说，如何做出 既美味，又简单到可以在家制作 的菜式，才是最大的挑战。”
物的内在特质，而不是根据外表来做判断。
UMBERTO BOMBANA
f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 27
MORI
TO M O A K I
SUSHI MORI TOMOAKI
CHAMPAGNE PAIRING The acidity and freshness of the Japanese green lemon pairs exceptionally well with the acidity of Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition. In Japan, white fish always pairs well with Champagne, and the aroma of this Krug edition enhances my dish exceptionally. / 日本青柠的酸度和清新，与 Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition 的酸度搭配得天衣无缝。在日本，香槟很适合与白肉鱼 料理一同搭配享用，而这款香槟的香气也为我的料理增色不少。
LEMON PAIRING The green lemon from Shikoku Island showcases the Japanese tradition of using rare and seasonal ingredients. The other lemons from Japan have no specific season, but this one is very precious, because it won’t stay green forever. You need to grasp the right time to use it. / 来自四国岛的青柠展现
CAN YOU SHARE A ZESTY MEMORY? 能分享关于柠檬的美好回忆吗？ As a young chef, it was sometimes hard to differentiate between various types of lemons just by looking at the outside. One time, I was in a rush and mixed up a kabosu orange with a green lemon. The aroma is similar, but the flavor is very different. / 年轻时，我不太会凭外观来 区分不同类型的柠檬。有一次我因 为赶时间，把臭橙与日本青柠搞混
了日本使用稀有时令食材的传统。日本其他种类的柠檬没有特定季节，但这种
了。虽然它们的香气相似，味道却
柠檬不会永远维持绿色色调，需要把握使用它做料理的短暂时机。
大相径庭。
28 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
PRESENTED BY KRUG
“This challenge matches my personal culinary philosophy of always fully utilizing our seasonal ingredients, including the skins of the vegetables and the bones and skins of the fish.
这项挑战符合我个人的烹饪理念，也就是充分利 用时令食材，包括果蔬皮、鱼骨和鱼皮。” MORI TOMOAKI
Red sea bream with lemon sashimi 柠檬真鲷刺身
PRESENTED BY KRUG
UWE PETRUS
Lemon and caviar 柠檬和鱼子酱
30 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
OP O C E N S K Y
“Yuzu, in combination with the aromas of Buddha’s hand and Sicilian lemon, brings out an amazing balance between sweet and savory.
CHAMPAGNE PAIRING Krug Rosé is my favorite rosé because it works for both savory dishes and dessert. My dish is in between the two, and the complexity and umami flavor found in the dish makes it a perfect match with Krug Rosé 27ème Édition. The three types of lemon that we use amplify the citrus notes in the rosé, and the caviar adds earthiness. / Krug Rosé 是我最爱
将柚子与佛手柑和西西 里柠檬的香气结合起 来，就能在甜味和鲜味 之间取得完美平衡。”
的粉红香槟，既能搭配风味十足的菜式，也能搭配甜点。我的料理介于两 者之间，其风味层次和鲜味与 Krug Rosé 27ème Édition 是绝配。我们使
UWE OPOCENSKY
用的三种柠檬引出香槟的柑橘香气，鱼子酱则带出泥土矿物气息。
LEMON PAIRING We use three types of lemon: Buddha’s hand, yuzu, and Sicilian lemon. We chose these to find the perfect fruit and citrus notes for the dish and for the way they work with Krug Rosé 27ème Édition. I’m in love with yuzu because it is so much more delicate than lemon or lime and because in combination with the aromas of Buddha’s hand and Sicilian lemon, it brings out an amazing balance between sweet and savory. Acidity is so important for balance and taste, and there is nothing better than a squeeze of citrus. / 我们用了三种柠 檬 ：佛手柑、柚子和西西里柠檬。选择这三种的原因，是希望替这道菜找到完美的水果和 柑橘香味，同时也是为了与 Krug Rosé 27ème Édition 搭配。我很喜欢柚子，因为它比柠檬 或青柠更细腻，与佛手柑和西西里柠檬的香气结合起来，能在甜味和鲜味之间取得完美平衡。 酸度对于中和味觉与口感来说非常重要，只要一些柑橘水果汁，就能为料理画龙点睛。
IF YOU WERE A LEMON, WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU BE? 如果您是柠檬，会是哪一种？？
I would be a mix of Buddha’s hand and yuzu, because I dare to be different. I’m zesty but still rounded in flavor. / 我会是佛手柑与柚子的混合体，因为我敢于与众不同，香气浓烈丰 富，但是风味圆润温和。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 31
“There’s a lemon tree planted at my house that’s been a nice addition for my home cooking and for enjoying quality time with my daughters – teaching them to take care of it.
我家有一颗柠檬 树，替我的家常 菜增色不少，也 让我和女儿享 受许多美好时 光，我会教她们 如何照顾它。” VICKY CHENG
CHAMPAGNE PAIRING The tanginess and fragrance of local lemon complement well the refreshing citrus aroma of Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition. The Champagne’s slight gingery flavor note also enhances the freshness of the shellfish. / 本 地 柠 檬 的 酸 味 和 香 气， 与 Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème
Édition 清爽的柑橘香味结合得天衣无缝。香槟的淡淡姜 味也提升了贝类的鲜度。
LEMON PAIRING I am using a local Hong Kong lemon, which was grown in my own garden. It has thicker and more fragrant outer skin and is great to use fresh, right after harvest, for extra-zesty aromatics. / 我选用自家花园种植的香港本
IF YOU WERE A LEMON, WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU BE? 如果您是柠檬，会是哪一种？ I would like to be an aged Chinese salted lemon, because it takes time to age, just like wine. During the maturing process, its characteristics change over time, enhancing its flavor, color, and aroma. It is just like me. I am always learning and improving during my aging and maturing process, building my unique personality. / 我想成为中国陈年咸柠 檬，因为这跟葡萄酒一样需要时间来陈酿。在 陈酿的过程中，柠檬的特性会随时间推移而出 现变化，进而提升风味、色泽与香气。这就跟
地柠檬。这种柠檬外皮较厚，香味更浓郁。新鲜采摘后立
我一样。随着年龄增长，我在变得成熟的过程
即入菜，香气特别强烈。
中不断学习、持续进步，形成自己独有的特色。
32 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
PRESENTED BY KRUG
VICKY
CHENG VEA
Grilled scallops with lemon cream 烤扇贝佐柠檬奶酱
“Meyer lemon is grown and at its best in winter, so it adds a sunny touch of summer to those cold and dark days. Its aromatic, slightly sweet quality brightens desserts, sauces, salads, and roasts.
梅尔柠檬会在冬季生长到最佳状 态，可说是为寒冷的日子注入一 抹夏日阳光。它的芳香和微甜 适合用来为甜点、酱汁、沙拉 和烧烤料理增添味觉亮点。” R O B I N Z AVO U
French toast with lemon sabayon 法式吐司佐柠檬沙巴雍甜酱
34 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
ROBIN AV O U
Z
CHAMPAGNE PAIRING This dish works well with the fruit and citrus undertones of Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition. The limoncello brings out the true flavor of the Champagne, and the caramelized notes of the French toast enhance its complexity. / 这 道 料 理 与 Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition 的果香和柑橘香气搭配得恰到好处。柠檬的柑橘香带出 香槟的真正风味，法式吐司的焦糖香也让酒香更有层次。
THE KRUG ROOM
LEMON PAIRING Meyer lemon has a unique flavor, which is neither too acidic nor too sweet. It is grown and at its best in winter, but it adds a sunny touch of summer to those cold and dark days. Its aromatic and slightly sweet quality brightens desserts, sauces, salads, and roasts. / 梅尔柠檬风味独特，不会太酸也不会过甜。这种柠檬会在冬季生 长到最佳状态，可说是为寒冷的日子注入一抹夏日阳光。它的芳香和微甜适合用来为 甜点、酱汁、沙拉和烧烤料理增添味觉亮点。
IF YOU WERE A LEMON, WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU BE? 如果您是柠檬，会是哪一种？
I’d like to come back as a yuzu lime, because its zest is fruity and tangy, like me. / 我 想要当柚子，因为这种柑橘类的果皮香气强烈浓郁，跟我一模一样。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 35
PRESENTED BY KRUG
“Sudachi is very distinctive, with an incomparable taste that immediately brings freshness to – and elevates – any dish.
酢橘具有非常独特、 无与伦比的风味， 能让菜肴的风味 更清新，并提升料 理的层次。” AGUSTIN FERRANDO BALBI
Hokkaido scallops with sudachi-aonori cream, green apple, shio kombu 北海道扇贝搭配酢橘与青海苔 日式奶酱、青苹果及盐昆布
AGUSTIN FERRANDO ANDŌ
BA L B I
CHAMPAGNE PAIRING Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition has citrus flavors that pair perfectly with our starter. It has caramelized notes that accentuate the sweetness of the scallop and some acidity that matches the green apple and citrus cream sauce to complement the sea breeze taste of the scallop. / Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition 的 柑
LIME PAIRING Sudachi is a lime-like Japanese citrus with a distinct flavor and aroma. It brings a great sensation of freshness along with a very special flavor profile, which elevates any dish to another level. / 酢橘是一种类似青柠的
IF YOU WERE A LEMON, WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU BE? 如果您是柠檬，会是哪一种？
橘风味和料理的酢橘香完美呼应。香槟的焦糖风
日本柑橘，具有独特的风味和香
I would be an Amalfi lemon: big, generous, fresh, and able to offer many delicious possibilities and add a touch of fun for everyone. / 我 会 是 阿 玛 菲 柠
味突显了扇贝的甘甜。酒体的酸度中和了菜式的
气，给人一种清新的感觉，同时
檬 ：个头大、多汁、新鲜，能够
浓郁感，与青苹果和柑橘奶油酱相互呼应，与扇
还具有非常特殊的风味，能提升
提供丰富的味觉体验，带给大家
贝的清新海风鲜味更是绝妙的组合。
菜肴的口感层次。
愉悦和乐趣。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 37
PRESENTED BY KRUG
RICARD O
CH A N E T O N
MONO CHAMPAGNE PAIRING The sweetness of the Japanese amaebi and the strawberries harmonizes with the vinaigrette and complements the acidity and minerality of Krug Rosé 27ème Édition. The combination enlivens the Champagne’s complex flavors and balances the textures of the dish. / 日本甜虾和草莓的甜味与油 醋酱调和得恰到好处，跟 Krug Rosé 27ème Édition 的酸度与矿物质感碰 撞出绝妙滋味。这样的搭配不仅让香 槟的复杂风味更活跃，也平衡了菜肴 的口感。
LIME PAIRING I find the finger lime, with its incredible texture and prominent flavor, to be one of the wonders of the world. It is a rare and special ingredient that packs so much character in such a small and unassuming package. / 我认为手指柠檬的质地与风 味相当迷人，可说是世界奇迹。虽然 如此小巧、不抢眼，却蕴含丰富的味 觉特色。
CAN YOU SHARE A ZESTY MEMORY? 能分享关于柠檬的美好回忆吗？
“I find the finger lime, with its incredible texture and prominent flavor, to be one of the world’s wonders.
For a period of time, I lived and worked in Menton, a small city in the south of France famed for both the lemon that shares its name and also for the Fête du Citron. I have many amazing memories of the incredible sculptures made entirely of citrus fruits. / 我曾经在芒通生活 和工作过一段时间，这是法国南部的 一座小镇，因柠檬而闻名，当地的柠
手指柠檬的质地与风味相当迷人，可说是世界奇迹。” RICARDO CHANETON
38 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
檬节也非常出名。我在那里见过一些 由柑橘类水果制成的雕塑，工艺实在 令人赞叹，这都是我心中美好的回忆。
Butter prawn tartare with shallot cream and finger lime vinaigrette 牛油虾他他、香葱奶 油、手指柠檬油醋酱
“The goal is to give our Krug lovers the same emotion every year.
我们希望每一年份的Krug香槟， 都能带给Krug爱好者一样的感动。” Jérôme Jacoillot
↑
↑↑
caption
caption
或
或
← caption 或
CHAMPAGNE
动人心弦
emotional expressions Winemaker Jérôme Jacoillot, in Hong Kong to present the new Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition and Krug Rosé 27ème Édition, shared his thoughts with TK on how to get the most out of Krug Champagnes. § 酿酒
师 Jérôme Jacoillot来到香港发表新品Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition及Krug Rosé 27ème Édition， 并与 TK分享品尝Krug香槟的独门诀窍。
How would you describe the Krug style? When Joseph Krug created the House, he wanted to offer the fullest expression of Champagne. And this is what Chef de Caves Julie Cavil keeps in mind when she creates the cuvée. The style doesn’t evolve year to year, and the feel of it is always the same. The goal is to give our Krug lovers the same emotion every year. If you listen to an opera in Paris and then in Hong Kong, there may be different musicians, but you’ll have the same emotions. That’s the goal with each edition of Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé.
What if you did a vertical tasting of different editions? You’d notice some differences between the editions, because we don’t use the same recipe. The grapes, for sure, are different year to year. Some years are more difficult, with strong personalities, like 2006 or 2008. The musicians are playing a little bit louder. Julie is like the conductor, and she’d calm them down with reserve wines.
How are you managing climate change? Tasting grapes is one of our obsessions. That’s the only way to find a good date to harvest. The maturation of the grapes is going faster and we are harvesting earlier and earlier every year. We don’t correct anything during the vinification, so to have the freshness and maturity that you expect in our cuvée, we have to pick earlier.
请问您会如何描述 Krug 香槟的风味？ 酒庄创办人 Joseph Krug 自酒庄创建以来，核心理 念始终是找到最能完美表达香槟特性的风味，我们的 酿酒总监 Julie Cavil 将之铭记在心。我们追求风格的始 终如一，不会随着时间而变质。我们希望每一年份的
Krug 香槟，都能带给 Krug 爱好者一样的感动。 这好比您在巴黎观赏了一部歌剧，然后在香港再 观赏同一部歌剧，虽然演奏的音乐家不同，但您会被 触发类似的情绪。这就是每一版 Krug Grande Cuvée 和
Krug Rosé 的目标。 进行垂直品鉴时的风味也会是一样的吗？ 您会注意到每一版香槟都不尽相同，这是因为酿酒 配方会有所调整。当然，酿酒用的葡萄本身，也会随着 当年栽种情况而有不同风味。举例来说，像是 2006 和
2008 年份的葡萄，正因为栽种情况多变而让风味特别 突出。这就像是音乐家没有控制好乐器音量，此时 Julie 就扮演指挥家的角色，会利用储备酒种调和整体风味。
Krug 如何应对气候变化对葡萄的影响？ 我们坚持亲自品尝葡萄，因为这是找到最佳采收 日期的唯一方法。在气候变化的影响下，葡萄的成熟速 度越来越快，每年的采收日期也越来越提前。为了把关 葡萄新鲜度和成熟度，我们在酿酒过程中不进行任何校 正，也因此必须在葡萄过熟前趁早采摘。
请问品尝 Krug 时有什么诀窍吗？
COURTESY OF TYRONE WU & AR SAI (3)
What tips do you have for serving Krug? Even with the same bottle of Champagne, if you have ten different glass shapes in front of you, you’ll have ten differenttasting Champagnes. We don’t like to use flutes or coupes – that would be like listening to an opera with earplugs. It’s really important to serve Krug in a good glass and at a good temperature. At home, that’s really easy – use a white wine glass at a temperature between 8˚C and 10˚C, and you’ll enjoy it for sure.
即使是同一瓶香槟，使用十种不同形状的玻璃杯， 就会品尝到十种不同的风味。我们不喜欢使用笛型杯 （flute）或碟型杯（coupe）—— 因为那就像戴着耳塞听 歌剧。品尝 Krug 的关键，是在适宜的温度下使用形状 合适的玻璃杯。举例来说，在家使用白酒杯享用温度介 于 8 至 10 ˚C 之间的 Krug 香槟，就可以品尝到 Krug 的 风味所在。
请问 Krug 的最佳品尝时机为何？
When’s the best time for Krug? You can enjoy Krug Grande Cuvée whenever you want. At eleven o’clock in the morning, it’s completely clear on the palate. If it’s a moment of sharing with your family or friends – just drink it. I had the chance to have Krug with a burger – a good burger and a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée. That’s a nice, simple experience.
您随时都可以享用 Krug Grande Cuvée。如果早上 十一点想小酌一杯，这款风味清新的香槟就是您的最好 选择。若是与家人朋友欢聚分享的时刻，您们可以毫无 顾虑地尽情享受。有一次，我有机会品尝到 Krug 香槟和 汉堡的搭配 —— 那是一份相当美味的汉堡，搭配一杯 Krug Grande Cuvée 一起享用，体验很简单，又美好。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 41
职人之路
sushi shuhari A renowned sushi master transcends tradition with creativity and imagination.
Sardine roll 沙甸鱼矶边卷
PRESENTED BY SUSHI MORI TOMOAKI
Mori Tomoaki 森智昭
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
43
ever,” says Tomoaki of the growing recognition on BY 7 P.M., seats are filled at Hong Kong’s Sushi Mori the part of sushi fans that the “sourness” is key to Tomoaki as the evening’s guests wait for Chef Mori offsetting the oily aftertaste of fatty fish like tuna. Tomoaki to arrive. Soon after, he emerges through Tomoaki has also continued to expand the the kitchen doors, approaches the cutting board under boundaries of traditional sushi fare by the glare of ceiling lights, and begins his using a variety of pickling and air-drying magic. BY techniques and by introducing Sichuan, The atmosphere, although respectful, JOYCE KWOK French, and Spanish cooking methods is far from serious, with Tomoaki laugh• to highlight flavors. Three years ago, ing and chatting with guests. Many here PHOTOGRAPHY BY Tomoaki also began adding a new twist see Mori Tomoaki as a sort of rock star of DAVID HARTUNG on the old sushi formula of “light to the sushi world, a chef willing to push the heavy, cold to hot.” Now he alternates between envelope of traditions and often ready with a surprise cold and hot dishes across his twenty-course food or two. It’s no wonder that Sushi Mori Tomoaki is and drink meal. An inveterate trailblazer, Tomoaki among Hong Kong’s hardest-to-book restaurants. has even gone so far as to warm his vinegar rice, a “Today, there are more and more people who demanding task that requires getting the temperatruly understand how to experience sushi,” says ture just right. Tomoaki, who was born to Japanese and Chinese “Much as in the Way of Tea or Japanese marparents and grew up in Hong Kong. Opening his first tial arts,” he says, “the concept of shuhari is key to restaurant at age twenty-six, Tomoaki has shown cooking at the highest level.” He explains that at an uncanny knack for understanding local appetites. the shu stage of training, the student learns under Early on, vinegar rice was unpopular in Hong Kong, the guidance of a master. In the context of sushi, and tastes at the time preferred fish cooked rather it means understanding how to find the best fish, than raw. With the uptick of travel to Japan, however, how to make vinegar rice, and how to hand press there has been a corresponding increase of interest in nigiri sushi so that it remains light and airy. At the and appreciation for Japanese cuisine. “Today, diners ha stage, the teachings that have been passed in Hong Kong are embracing sour flavors more than
44 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
PRESENTED BY SUSHI MORI TOMOAKI
Zucchini flowers and snow crab tempura 松叶蟹青瓜花天妇罗
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
45
PRESENTED BY SUSHI MORI TOMOAKI
Leung Hansheng 梁汉笙
晚 上 七 时， 在 香 港 筲 箕 湾 寿 司 店「Sushi Mori Tomoaki」，客人鱼贯入席，静候主理人森智昭上场。 不久，他从后厨房出来，在一列天花射灯映照下来 到板前正中，时而自信地握寿司，时而自在地与客 人把酒谈笑。在很多知音客人心目中，森智昭恰如 寿司界的明星，席前作菜潇洒，屡有惊喜。他的寿 司店一直被香港食客喻为一位难求的「预约困难店」 。 「吃得懂寿司的人愈来愈多了。 」森智昭是中日 混血儿，在香港成长、二十六岁创业，不但了解香 港人的胃口，也观察到他们吃日本料理的转变 ：早 些年香港人不喜欢醋饭，觉得酸，也不喜欢非新鲜 的熟成鱼。但当香港民众有更多机会到日本吃，他 们对地道日本料理的接受度提高了。「就像醋饭， 香港近年的口味都偏酸。 」大家似乎渐渐理解到，醋 饭中的「酸」何其重要 —— 能够让油脂丰盛如鲔鱼， 吃罢不觉嘴巴残留半分油脂。因此，不仅用醋随时
46 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
← Kohada sushi 小肌寿司
→ Spanish mackerel côtelette with black truffle 吉列鰆鱼配黑松露
down are mastered at last. The student can then begin to add personal touches to his or her craft. But it is only at the final ri stage that creativity and imagination are brought to the forefront. Tomoaki grew up learning the art of sushi at his father’s restaurant in Stanley and found the traditional master-student relationship a difficult one. “The masters of previous generations would make you do all the basic, tedious, and heavy work,” he says. “They would rarely, if ever, show you the tricks of the trade. You’d have to figure out those yourself through observation and practice. If you were lucky, the older students might give you some pointers.” Tomoaki has always hoped to introduce
间进化，森智昭亦愈来愈敢用不同腌渍、风干工艺，甚至兼容川菜、法 国菜、西班牙菜等烹调方法，以尽力突显鱼材鲜美，也展现他的想像力 与视野。约在三年前，他还试着扭转传统厨师发办一贯「由淡入浓，从 冷至热」的出菜节奏，改以「冷热交错」—— 酒肴与寿司合共二十道菜， 以梅花间竹方式出场。 「香港客人最爱新鲜感！」森智昭从不坐等业界进步，而是会自己 先进步。虽然很多客人吃得高兴，但他不讳言所花工夫甚多。「为了让 醋饭吃来是温热的，我必须分三次把米饭小批次煮好。 」 客人的品评爱恶会变，寿司职人的哲学又如何？森智昭说 ： 「与日 本茶道、武术一样， 『守破离』是精进料理之不二法门。 」守，是在师傅 指导下学习，学懂找最好的鱼材、拌最好的醋饭、捏出富空气感的握寿 司 ；破，是在力守传统道地基础上，加入自己的想法 ；离，是开创新境 界的最后阶段。他自幼在父亲的赤柱餐厅帮忙、读日本人学校，这套传 统思想早就根深蒂固，但他也坦言传统师徒制有某些事情颇受诟病。「就 像上一辈师傅总先要求你做各种基础粗重活儿，从不将窍门说出来，靠 的都是自己眼看、摸索、练习，幸运的话，师兄会从旁略为提点。 」 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 47
PRESENTED BY SUSHI MORI TOMOAKI
Sushi Mori Tomoaki offers the ocean’s freshest bounty. 餐厅选用最鲜美的鱼材。
changes to this traditional master-student dynamic. Because his sushi restaurants are small, his students have to wear many hats from the start and apply what they learn immediately. One of Mori’s top students, Zinc Leung Hansheng, jokingly remarks of the process, “It’s like throwing yourself into the ocean to learn how to swim.” Although young and originally trained in Italian cuisine, Leung has made quite a name for himself in the world of sushi under Tomoaki’s tutelage. “When I choose my students,” he says, “I first look for the right attitude. They must be willing to listen. Second, they need to be capable of engaging with customers in conversation and over drinks. They should be able to win customers’ favor and trust and assemble a group of regulars.” Today, Leung not only manages one of Tomoaki’s sushi bars but is also authorized to come up with additions to the new menu. Since it was spring, plates that night were filled with the sprouts, mosses, and flowers of the season. Leung likes to make use of spring vegetables to create a microcosm of the Japanese countryside. His ingenuity could be seen in other touches, like forgoing the usual smoking or grilling of catfish and instead breading and frying it to delicate perfection. Snow crab was not used in chawanmushi , as is standard, but was rather made into tempura. Under Leung, variations are freely borrowed from distant places. He has, for example, used Spanish paella in place of the traditional Japanese rice dish kamameshi .
48 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
森智昭一直希望能够扭转这个旧习。由于 他开的寿司店规模较小，年轻学徒必须身兼多 职，把刚学到的东西直接实践起来。森智昭其 中一位得意门生梁汉笙（Zinc）幽默比喻说 ： 「就像直接扔你下海，让你自己学懂游泳！」梁 汉笙很年轻，原本做意大利菜出身，但森智昭 仍耐心从头教起。「我拣选徒弟，一是看态度， 一定要听师傅话 ；二是要有『观众缘』 ，能够与 客人聊天、饮酒，搏得他们欢心与信任，积存 起属于自己的熟客。 」森智昭亦相当信任 Zinc， 现时不但让他主理其中一张寿司吧，甚至放手 让他为整间店构思新酒肴。 采访时值春季，Zinc 端来的时令酒肴俱见 新意。他会积极起用鲜为人识的春季时蔬，如 蕾菜、虂之苔、菜之花，让客人面前的餐盘， 仿如日本当季植蔬生态的缩影。至于不少主厨 会用作烟熏或炙烤的鰆鱼，他则上脆炸粉做成 「吉列鰆鱼」 ，配黑松露汁提升香气 ；鸟取松叶 蟹脚不作茶碗蒸，反而做成酥香天妇罗，突出 食材的本味。他的料理风格不拘地域，回溯他 的学徒时代，他曾想到把蟹肉做成西班牙海鲜 饭，代替压轴登场的釜饭，深获好评。
Razor clams consommé with nanohana 黑蛏子清汤配菜之花
菁云之路
MUSHROOM MAGIC With Yunnan mushrooms from J’s Garden, three of Hong Kong’s culinary wizards create modern-day Cantonese classics.
BY JOYCE KWOK
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
50 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
PRESENTED BY J’S GARDEN
ON THE OCCASION of the twentieth anniversary of J’s Garden, the leading supplier of premium-quality Yunnan mushrooms to dozens of Michelin-star restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau, founder Nelson Wong recalls, “Back then, if I’d lacked the courage to introduce my Yunnan Matsutake Stew to Chef Chan Siu Kei, J’s Garden would not be here today.” As a recognized specialist in wild edible mushrooms from the scenic province in southwest China, Wong highlights the time he spent living among fungi farmers in the mountains of Yunnan and learning from them about the valuable culinary qualities of these prized ingredients. He was prompted by his experiences to ensure that the producers’ exquisite delicacies would find a home in the restaurants of inspired chefs. Over the years, Wong has befriended many of the leading lights of the Hong Kong and Macau dining scene, whom he regards as not only culinary masters but also as inheritors of time-honored traditions of Chinese food culture. To the delight of gourmets everywhere, these chefs continue to expand and enrich the legacy of Cantonese cuisine with J’s Garden’s Yunnan wild mushrooms. Among them are the chefs of three of Hong Kong’s noted Cantonese restaurants:
「如果当天我没有鼓起勇气，把自荐用的云南松茸炖汤交给陈小麒师傅， 『菁 云』应该迎不上今天的成就。 」专营云南野生食用菇菌，并供应给港澳多 间米其林星级餐厅的的高级食材供应商「菁云」成立二十周年，创办人黄 诗键（Nelson）如此感叹回忆道。 餐饮业内人都知道，不少港澳米其林星级餐厅的盘中菇菌食材多来自 「菁云」 ，因此曾有人称「菁云」是「米其林御用菇菌商」 。 对于 Nelson 来说，经营云南菇菌并不是一场「价高者得」的买卖， 而是建基于情谊与信任。 「当你曾经亲自走入云南深山、与菌农一起于小 屋生活时，他们的辛劳、俭朴，让你感受到食材的难能可贵。 」 这些经历使 Nelson 萌生使命感，要将它们好好交付予有心、可信赖 的主厨。抱持着这个想法，二十年来他结交、提携不少主厨，如今这些主 Chilled coconut milk with porcini mushrooms, apple and caramel；
厨宛如他的兄弟。他认为主厨们都不只是「制作者」 ，更是传承饮食文化 的「积极行动者」 。
Nelson 相信，他们将透过全新食材如云南野生菇菌，持续更新及扩
Baked rose and mashed Yunnan ham pastry
展粤菜的内涵。接下来的三位香港著名粤菜餐厅大厨，也一直追求突破，
菁云露、玫瑰腿蓉蘑菇酥
继续在既有的基础上发展、成长。 FORESTS BLUE | TK |
51
Chef Jayson Tang, Chef Chan Siu Kei, Nelson Wong 主厨邓家濠，陈小麒师傅，黄诗键
MAN HO 万豪金殿
IN CELEBRATION of J’s Garden’s twentieth year, Michelin-starred Man Ho Chinese Restaurant at JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong is presenting its Yunnan Wild Mushroom Menu, the result of a four-hand collaboration between Man Ho Executive Chef Jayson Tang and retired Master Chef Chan Siu Kei. Chef Chan was on hand to recreate dishes in a nod to his days as a pioneer in the use of wild Yunnan mushrooms at the highest level of Cantonese cooking. He recalls that in the 2000s, costly matsutakes imported from Japan were all the rage, and it was around that time that he first experienced Wong’s wild Yunnan mushrooms. Captivated by their complex flavors, he eventually traveled to the mountains of Yunnan to see for himself where and how the mushrooms were grown. At the time, grilling and hot pot preparations were the most common ways of using them, which he considered a travesty for mushrooms of such superior quality. After returning to Hong Kong, Chan used wild Yunnan termite mushrooms in creating what would become one of his most popular dishes, Deep Fried Prawn with Termite Mushrooms on Rice Crust. In working with all of the Yunnan varieties over the years, he discovered the interesting fact that while men tend to prefer the pronounced aroma of matsutakes, women lean toward the fresher, sweeter taste of termite and porcini mushrooms.
52 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
为纪念成立二十周年，今年「菁云」推出年 度重头戏「云南野生菇菌宴」 ，Nelson 交由 万豪酒店中菜厅「万豪金殿」主厨邓家濠， 联袂经已退休的陈小麒师傅「四手」主理。 这场菇菌宴意义非凡，不但邀得被视为 「云南野生菇菌」重要推手的陈小麒师傅重出 江湖、重现全盛期时创作的名菜，更接纳了 邓家濠的热心与想法， 「传承」意味甚浓。 陈小麒回想二零零零年代，当时大家只 知日本松茸矜贵，直至他喝过 Nelson 的云南 野生松茸炖汤，有感天外有天，于是决心寻 探云南的野生菇菌。他以年月眼看耳听累积， 对每种云南菇菌如数家珍 ： 「男性客人多爱松 茸，菌香最刚强 ；女性则偏爱鸡㙡和牛肝菌， 味道最鲜甜。 」 「原本菇菌在粤菜属于『绿叶』；若要做 成『宴』 ，就必须替不同的『绿叶』寻找『绿 叶』 。其实非常困难。 」邓家濠一语道破办「菇 菌宴」的难处。 这年他在菇菌宴上推出新菜「美味牛
PRESENTED BY J’S GARDEN
Deep-fried prawn with termite mushrooms on rice crust 油鸡㙡琵琶虎虾窝巴
Chef Tang noted that mushrooms have traditionally been considered a secondary ingredient in Cantonese cuisine and that he found introducing them as a main ingredient across a whole menu was a definite challenge. For the celebration menu, he and his young team have worked to incorporate mushrooms in creative ways and to cater to today’s more healthconscious clientele with dishes like his Braised Pork Belly and Winter Melon with Porcini Mushrooms, in which winter melon takes the place of fatty meat. With his dessert of Chilled Coconut Milk with Porcini Mushrooms, Apple, and Caramel, he breaks with tradition by making a sweet cream from porcini mushrooms and combining it with a variety of ingredients to arrive at a wonderfully refreshing flavor profile. Chef Chan personally supervised every step of the menu, offering valuable feedback and devoting himself to the faithful transmission of his hardwon culinary techniques. He helped Chef Tang, for example, to improve a dish named Crispy Roasted Suckling Pig Stuffed with Pearl Barley, Glutinous Rice, and Black Truffles by suggesting that the truffles be stuffed with glutinous rice. And although it is referred to as a four-hand menu, it is actually more of a six-hand collaboration, because of the pivotal role that Wong – and his exceptional mushrooms – have played.
肝菌琉璃东坡肉」 ，既见他巧妙将美味牛肝 菌打成抹酱，同时也用冬瓜代替肥肉，为 菜式妆点趣味，也迎合现代食客对健康的 诉求。甜品「菁云露」一贯他的跳脱思维， 把牛肝菌打成甜奶油，配海盐焦糖、咖啡 果冻、肉桂山楂苹果等做成中式糖水。 席间可见，陈小麒并非只传授菜式食 谱，而是亲自把关督导，适时给予酒店团 队反馈，全心授予毕生技法，就像邓家濠 试着复刻陈小麒其中一道名菜「黑松露薏 米烧酿乳猪」 ，起初邓家濠把云南黑松露用 机打碎，但陈小麒认为效果不理想，邓家 濠立刻想办法改进，着团队用人手把黑松 露切成小粒，酿进糯米饭。 乍听这是一场「四手」联乘的野生菇 菌宴，其实 Nelson 全程参与其中。虽然他 谦称此宴不过是「四手一口」 ，但客人心里 都知道，这是一场「六手联乘」餐会，三 人惺惺相识，彼此的关怀与情谊，为纪念 周年铭刻最美丽的回忆。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 53
Steamed winter melon roll, Alaskan king crab, abalone, matsutake mushroom 松茸长脚蟹肉冬瓜卷
54 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
PRESENTED BY J’S GARDEN
THE LEGACY HOUSE 彤福轩
“MATSUTAKES remind me of the mountain scent
of Yunnan,” says Chef Li Chi Wai of The Legacy House at Rosewood Hong Kong. Capturing this aroma was precisely what Li was aiming at in his new dish, Steamed Winter Melon Roll, Alaskan King Crab, Abalone, and Matsutake Mushroom. Li remembers receiving an invitation from Wong eight years ago to visit Yunnan’s mountains near Shangri-La City in search of wild mushrooms. The group, off at five in the morning from an altitude of more than two thousand meters, traversed the rough terrain in off-road vehicles as they followed the fungi farmers in pursuit of their treasures. Before traveling to Yunnan, Chef Li had only a conceptual understanding of mushrooms. It was not until he personally collected them that he realized that each type has its unique shape. When asked for his favorite, he names matsutake without hesitation, praising everything about the wild variety, from their symbiotic relationship with trees as they absorb nutrients to their distinctive smell of pine and wet earth. He laughingly recalls that on returning from Yunnan, his bags contained so many bottles of the matsutake-infused spirits so popular there at the time that they were mistaken for contraband at customs. Chef Li remembers with fondness the friendships created on his trip and would later bring his new enthusiasm back to The Legacy House in Hong Kong. Now, wild mushrooms from Yunnan are featured on the menu and are a perennial customer favorite. “As early as July,” says Li, “we already have guests asking us when they will arrive.” This year, he came up with the unique idea of combining local winter melon and Japanese Alaskan king crab with matsutake mushrooms. The unseasoned crabmeat, reflecting the salty water in which it is cooked, is paired with rich winter melon juice. Steaming helps to bring out the mushrooms’ inherent flavor and crispness. One taste, and it’s easy to be carried away to the misty mountains of Yunnan.
Chef Li Chi Wai 中菜行政总厨李志伟
「松茸让我找回当年在云南的山头气息。 」香港瑰丽酒店中菜行政总 厨李志伟在中菜厅「彤福轩」端上当季新菜「松茸长脚蟹冬瓜卷」 ， 散发清幽如松木的香气，引出他的感叹。 李志伟深刻记得八年前，他收到 Nelson 的邀请，一起到云南 香格里拉深山考察野生菇菌。 「一行人坐小型越野车，驶上海拔二千 多米的山。大伙儿清晨五点起床，跟随背上挑担的菌农于日出前采 」他的记忆及陈 集 …… 起床时空气沁人心肺，整个人都很放松愉快。 述依然鲜活。 李志伟不讳言，在那趟旅行前，对菇菌的认识只流于书本上的 知识，直至亲自见过、采过、闻过，才发现每棵都拥有独一无二的 形态。当请他从众多菇菌中挑选最钟爱的一款，他二话不说就选了 松茸。他指出，野生松茸是必须和林木共生的菌类，日积月累吸收 了松树的养份，让它透着很迷人的松香及湿土气息。 「那阵子云南人 会用松茸泡酒，视为一种创新的吃法 ；我也乘兴买走，没料到被机 场海关扣查，误以为是违禁品 ……」讲到这里，李志伟与坐在旁边的
Nelson 相视大笑。 李志伟一直记着那趟旅途建立的情谊与交流，并带着回香港、 到彤福轩。 「现在有客人七月就在问，云南野生松茸何时开卖。 」 今年李志伟用上本地冬瓜及日本松叶蟹配搭云南野生松茸。蟹 肉不特别调味，仅一点海水本身的咸，以及冬瓜的汁丰，单纯靠蒸 法把松茸的本味与爽脆感烘托得极好，隐隐然散发当年在云南的山 头气息。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 55
FLOWER DRUM 锋膳
菇菌是一种可塑性极强的食材，既能以温 柔手法烘托真味，也可用直球对决的「暴 力美学」掳获客人的心。 由湾仔粤菜餐厅「锋膳」主厨黎兆 Chef Nansen Lai 主厨黎兆锋
锋创作的「干巴菌鸳鸯焖饭」 ，无疑属于 后者。光看菜名，客人实在无法预知它的 味道，但在一匙饭中有松茸的鲜、羊肚菌 的浓、干巴菌的肉香、牛油的润，也确实 是一种「饮食暴力美学」 。
MUSHROOMS ARE MALLEABLE: they can be cooked gently in simple
「传统中菜世界中，菇菌不一定做成
dishes to bring out their natural flavor or used as a complement in dishes with intense flavors and to enhance aesthetic appeal. Stewed Rice with Ganba and Matsutake Mushrooms, an original creation of Head Chef Nansen Lai of Cantonese restaurant Flower Drum is very much in the latter category. Alongside the buttery quality in each spoonful of the rice is the freshness of matsutakes, the richness of morels, and the meaty aroma of ganbas. “In the world of traditional Chinese cuisine, in my father’s time, there were already heavily flavored dishes like Garlic Braised Mushrooms in Lard,” says Chef Lai. Because his father was the executive chef of Hong Kong’s Fumania, Lai’s education in Chinese cooking started when he was just a child. Chef Lai has long experience in cooking with edible fungi. He recalls working as a head chef for a high-end Egyptian hotel ten years ago, when international logistics were not as developed as now and it was very difficult to obtain fresh mushrooms. He had created two dishes, Braised Chicken Rice with Black Truffle and Black Truffle Crispy Chicken, that had become customer favorites. Although he wanted to use fresh truffles, the best he could get were frozen, air-dried, or freeze-dried, all of which lacked the delicate sense of seasonality. In frustration, he asked a colleague to travel to France and bring back twenty kilograms of black truffles in a suitcase. Chef Lai laughingly recalls that this was enough to convince the hotel that shipping fresh mushrooms would be a cheaper option. Building on his long experience, this year he launched a new dish, Mushroom Chicken Soup with Butter, pairing wild Yunnan ganba, matsutake, and morel mushrooms for a glossy and glamorous result that meets modern diners’ high expectations for fine Cantonese cuisine. The addition of butter is an innovation that allows the nuances of the three mushroom varieties to meld together and produce a flavor surprisingly rich and deep.
『三菇六耳』般素雅 ；在我父亲的年代，
56 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
已经有如『猪油蒜焖冬菇』相对浓味的菜 式。 」黎兆锋的父亲是香港「富万年酒楼」 总厨，他也在耳濡目染之下，从小打稳做 中菜的根基。 全赖国际交通与物流冷链等技术发 达，现时想吃尽全球山珍海味似乎不是这 么困难。不过黎兆锋回忆，十多年前要用 新鲜当造菇菌入馔绝不容易。那时候，他 在埃及高级酒店中菜厅当主厨， 「客人都 讲究高贵食材──就像菇菌，我于是设计 出新菜如『黑松露焖鸡饭』及『黑松露脆 皮鸡』 ，让市场惊艳。 」当时他请酒店去采 购合适的食材，但交来的都是冰鲜、风干 或冻干货色。他感叹它们始终无法表达真 实的季节感，曾经有一次，他托同事「人 肉运输」 ，把二十公斤黑松露从法国带回 国，并成功说服公司起用「新鲜」名菌。 家学渊源，黎兆锋对菇菌玩得已是 炉火纯青，犹幸见今年的新菜仍让市场惊 艳。新鲜的云南野生干巴菌、松茸、羊肚 菌组成的牌面固然光鲜亮丽，但神来一笔 却是那加入了牛油的菇菌鸡汤。他坦言 做法有点新派， 「但当中产生的化学反应， 既把数种菇菌串连起来，那意想不到的浓 郁味道也能满足现代客人对精致粤菜的高 标准期待。 」
PRESENTED BY J’S GARDEN
Stewed rice with ganba and matsutake mushrooms 干巴菌鸳鸯焖饭
PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA PALACE
复兴之路
A TRADITION REBORN Palace Garden brings new life to classic Taishi cuisine. BY JOYCE KWOK
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Foie Gras and Chicken Wrapped in Crispy Waffle Paper 法国鹅肝纸包鸡
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
59
PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA PALACE
GE ZHA AND FIVE SNAKE BISQUE are dishes that bring a tear of nostalgia to any lover of Cantonese food. What few know, however, is that they share a common ancestry in Taishi cuisine, which originated in the household of Jiang Kongyin, a government official and celebrated gourmand who lived in the late Qing dynasty. “I think the essence of Taishi cuisine lies in the concept of humble ingredients and elevated preparation,” explains Ken Chong, head chef of Chinese fine dining restaurant Palace Garden at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau. “For example, under the skillful hand of Jiang Kongyin’s chef, chicken liver became Foie Gras and Chicken Wrapped in Crispy Waffle Paper, and pomelo peel was transformed into Pomelo Peel Braised with Shrimp Roe and Fish Roe in Abalone Sauce. His genius was giving new life and meaning to ingredients otherwise ignored or overlooked.” Chef Chong’s mastery of Taishi cuisine is the result of his study under Master Chef Lai Yau Tim, who himself was a protégé of Master Li Cai, the last chef to work for Jiang Kongyin. When Lai opened a restaurant in Sheung Wan, Chong joined his culinary team and there formed a special connection with Taishi cuisine. “I learned strict selfdiscipline and an insistence on handling the smallest of details,” says Chong. Despite his efforts, Chong admits that it was only after he was invited to serve as head chef of Palace Garden by Lai’s son, Kenneth Lai, the director of F&B of Grand Lisboa Palace, that he took steps to fully systematize the culinary methods of Taishi cuisine. Lai and Chong, always aware of the danger that Taishi cuisine might become extinct, recognized that the biggest challenge in keeping it vital is in sourcing the right ingredients. The classic Taishi dish Five Snake Bisque is a good example. “In recent years,” says Lai, who has witnessed the decline of snake-based dishes in Hong Kong, “wild snakes can no longer be used for food, so now we have to buy farmed ones from Malaysia.” The duo were determined to prevent the disappearance of this classic Taishi specialty and have introduced dishes like Premium Partridge Bisque, which now takes the place of Five Snake Bisque at Palace Garden. Hand-shredded French partridge replaces the three missing snakes, and the bisque still offers the uniquely meaty aroma of game. Other classic Taishi dishes have been updated in the same vein. The chicken liver originally used in the classic dish PaperWrapped Chicken has been replaced with French foie gras seasoned with rosé wine and the traditional Chinese flavors of coriander and celery. The result is Palace Garden’s signature dish Foie Gras and Chicken Wrapped in Crispy Waffle Paper. “Chicken liver has a bitter taste that is impossible to eliminate,” notes Chong, “but using foie gras completely solves this problem. Although we are using foreign foie gras, the taste and story of this dish are still full of Asian color.” Lavish imported ingredients are used not to drive up the prices of Taishi dishes, Chef Chong explains, but rather to capture the spirit of the times in a reinterpretation of a culinary tradition. In a similar
60 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
Ken Chong 庄嘉辉
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
61
PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA PALACE
↓
→
Premium Partridge Bisque
Crab Shell Filled with Crabmeat and Baked with Sea Urchin and Kristal Caviar
太史凤凰羹
鱼子海胆焗酿蟹盖
way, Jiang Kongyin, known for being unsatisfied with the poultry available in Guangzhou, raised his own chickens and ducks in addition to growing his own lychees and making his own tofu. “He was always looking for the best and most suitable ingredients,” says Chong. “I believe that if he was alive today and had access to the same logistics we do, he wouldn’t hesitate to use Western ingredients. As the successor of Taishi cuisine, I am grateful for the opportunity to further enhance and refine this culinary tradition, using ingredients that were inaccessible to our ancient predecessors. It is my honor to carry forward the legacy and build on the foundation they have laid.” Chong recalls, for example, how, when he was working under Lai, crab claws were always served shelled and unbroken so that
62 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
戈渣、五蛇羹──很多人大概知道这都是怀旧广东菜，但甚少知道是源自 晚清京官兼美食家江孔殷府第的「太史菜」 。 「相较于『刀工细致』 、 『讲究食材』 ，我认为太史菜的精髓在于『粗菜 精做』 。 」澳门上葡京综合度假村高级粤菜餐厅「御花园」总厨庄嘉辉交出 了一个关于太史菜很有意思的观点。他以菜单上的招牌菜作例， 「就像平凡 的鸡肝，庄师傅也融入了太史菜的想法，以匠心別具的工艺做成『法国鹅 肝纸包鸡』 ，柚子皮则做成『鲍汁双籽柚皮』 ，赐予不起眼的食材新生命。 」 能对太史菜有透澈的洞见，是因为庄师傅入行时已跟随黎有甜师傅学 做太史菜。黎有甜是江孔殷最后一位家厨李才的其中一位得力门生，后来 他在上环开店，刚从香港厨艺学院毕业的庄师傅应征当厨，自此与太史菜 结下深厚缘分。 「与师傅共事的十三年，我从他身上学懂『严以律己』 ，坚 持每道菜式的细节处理。 」庄师傅回忆说。 不过他坦言，从前只顾埋头苦干，未及想通细节与细节之间的脉络， 直至黎有甜的儿子黎宇恒以酒店餐饮部总监身分为「御花园」延揽总厨一 职，他才重新推敲、整理太史菜的做法。 二人都認為，太史菜是一个极容易消失的菜系。最大挑战在于食材， 而「太史五蛇羹」就是最好的例子。黎宇恒感叹说 :「由于吃蛇的文化日渐 式微，现在『五蛇』已经不能用作食材。为了保存鲜味，我们只得转而从 马来西亚购买养殖蛇入馔。 」
“As the successor of Taishi cuisine, I am grateful for the opportunity to further enhance and refine this culinary tradition, using ingredients that were inaccessible to our ancient predecessors.
作为太史菜的传人，我很高兴有机会用古人 接触不到的食材，来延续及提升太史菜。” Chef Ken Chong 庄嘉辉师傅輝
high-ranking officials would avoid the embarrassment of dirtying their hands. Although it was time-consuming to remove the claw meat when still raw, the resulting taste was incomparable. “If the claws are cracked after being steamed, 40 percent of the original umami taste is lost, something that is easily noticed by experienced diners,” says Chong. Today, diners can enjoy Palace Garden’s Whole Fresh Crab Claw with Steamed Egg White and Lobster Broth and taste for themselves how intact crab claws in lobster broth raise the taste to another level. Of his collaboration with Chong, Lai remarks, “I think our relationship is similar to that of Jiang Kongyin and his chef, Li Cai. I don’t fully understand cooking, so I start from the perspective of the banquet host and of the guests who are enjoying the food, and I
但二人没有坐等这道经典太史菜消失，而是让自己先进步。 「太史凤 凰羹」便是他们合力解决这棘手难题的方案──用手撕法国鹧鸪肉代替消 失的蛇肉，让浓郁鲜美的汤羹吃来依然有野味独有的肉香。配合讲究刀工、 切得细致均匀的木耳、花胶、冬菇丝等，带来丰富细腻的口感。他们也沿 用相同的脉络，把纸包鸡内的鸡肝换成法国鹅肝，以玫瑰露酒调味，加入 芫茜梗、芹菜这些中式的传统味道，做成「法国鹅肝纸包鸡」 。庄师傅说 : 「鸡肝本身有一股辟不走的甘苦味，用法国鹅肝就能解决这问题。即使我们 用了外国的鹅肝，但菜式的味道和故事，仍然充满东方的色彩。 」 庄师傅强调，他们并不是要靠西方食材拉高太史菜的价钱，而是撷取 太史菜的时代精神，并加以演绎。他解释，江孔殷曾说过广州家禽质素都 达不到要求，因此会自己养鸡鸭、种荔枝、做豆腐。 「那就意味着，他会在 能力范围内寻找最好、最合适的食材。我觉得，如果他活在物流发达的今 天，他会毫不犹豫引入西方的顶尖食材！作为太史菜的传人，我很高兴有 机会用古人接触不到的食材，来延续及提升太史菜，并在前人奠下的根基上， 把太史菜传承下去。 」 像是经典的「蒸原只鲜蟹钳」 ，从前黎有甜叮咛蟹钳一定要原件生拆， 而且三段不能断。庄师傅现在回想，这种处理方式就是为了免却达官贵人 弄脏手的窘况。他又指，生拆颇花时间，壳肉相连，但那鲜味却是无可比 拟的。 「如果把蟹钳汆水才熟拆，鲜味会少了四成。 」个中分别，在老饕嘴 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 63
P R E S E N T E D B Y G R A N D L I S B O AF EPAATL U AC RE
“I think our relationship is similar to that of Jiang Kongyin and his chef, Li Cai. I don’t fully understand cooking, so I start from the perspective of the banquet host and of the guests who are enjoying the food, and I share ideas with Chef Chong and we talk about feasibility.
我觉得我们的关系，就像江孔殷与李才。我不完全了解厨艺，但我会从主人家宴客、 宾客享受美食的角度出发，再把想法告诉庄师傅，大家互相交流可行性。”
Kenneth Lai 黎宇恒
Whole Fresh Crab Claw with Steamed Egg White with Lobster Broth 龙虾汤蛋白蒸原只鲜蟹钳
share ideas with Chef Chong and we talk about feasibility.” In the two years leading up to the opening of Palace Garden, the pair concentrated on perfecting every dish. Their shared goal was to preserve the elegant, noble culinary style that defines Taishi cuisine. Aside from the food, Palace Garden’s most noticeable feature is its enormous handmade mural of embroidered silk, which extends thirty-five meters and took twenty artists a year to make, with thousands of stitches used in place of brush strokes. The mural and a nearby double-sided Suzhou embroidery fan screen are just part of designer Alan Chan’s attention to detail as he worked to complement an extraordinary Taishi cuisine dining experience that looks backward and forward in equal measure.
里还是轻易能分辨得出来。在「御花园」版本的「龙虾汤蛋白 蒸原只鲜蟹钳」中，生拆蟹钳饱满扎实，滑嫩的龙虾汤蛋白巧 妙衬托出蟹肉的鲜香，更显贵气。 「我觉得我们的关系，就像江孔殷与李才。我不完全了解 厨艺，但我会从主人家宴客、宾客享受美食的角度出发，再把 想法告诉庄师傅，大家互相交流可行性。 」黎宇恒如此诠释自 己的管理角色与主厨相辅相成的关系。从两年前筹备「御花园」 开业，二人已经合作无间，努力完善每道菜式，以及外场每个 细节。两位的目标一致，在这里共同守护太史菜大气高贵的风 貌。 不得不提主厅的苏州手工丝绣壁画，三十五米延绵贯穿全 场，乃由二十位绣娘、绣郎用一年时间，用千针万线替代画笔， 勾勒出菊花之高贵美，映衬长廊上的双面苏绣团扇屏风 ；著名 设计师陈幼坚对室内设计细节的讲究，直与太史菜传人的心意 遥相呼应，互相成就出充满文化气韵的高级餐饮体验。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 65
和洋青森
ingredient deep dive Kashu stars the finest of Aomori’s regional seafood and other products in its creative omakase cuisine. BY MIYAKO KAI
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Fresh yari ika (squid) and ezo awabi (abalone) arrive at Kashu’s kitchen. 新鲜的鱿鱼和鲍鱼送 达Kashu的厨房。
8 | TK | FORESTS BLUE
TASTING NOTES
Oma uni, three-year-aged karasumi, and tiger blowfish jelly make a delightful appetizer. 大间海胆、三年陈乌鱼子和虎河豚 鱼冻，是一道清新愉悦的开胃菜。
Prized horsemeat from Kanagi is an unforgettable Aomori delicacy. 来自金木的珍贵马肉是令人口齿留香的青森美食。
AOMORI PREFECTURE is certainly among Japan’s top players in supplying the pantries of the world’s restaurants with the highest-quality ingredients. While sharing in Aomori’s bounty in simple cooking at the area’s many casual eateries is worth every visit, enjoying it in finedining cuisine created by a top-tier chef maximizes the experience. Aomori-born Chef Hideki Hanada opened Kashu in 2020 in Aomori City, after training in France, working at several venues under Michel Troisgros and François Gagnaire in Japan and France, joining ESqUISSE in Tokyo’s Ginza, and finally returning to Aomori to help in his father’s Japanese izakaya style restaurant. Kashu, hidden in a small house in a quiet residential area near Aomori station, displays no signage outside, only the crest of the Hanada family. Like the culinary concept behind Kashu, its interior is simple and minimal. Chef Hanada features Aomori ingredients in one omakase course which he personally cooks and serves at a counter to just six guests each night. Inspired by the chef’s daily encounters with Aomori ingredients, all of Kashu’s dishes are freestyle creations, French at their base, but with Japanese and Chinese influences. “I don’t follow any recipes,” says Hanada. “Here, you’ll never see the same dish again.” A good example of the chef’s approach sampled on a recent visit was an appetizer of the day made with uni from Oma combined with
three-year-aged karasumi (dried mullet roe) and presented on top of nikogori ( jelly) of wild tiger blowfish. The varied textures and flavors from the ocean made for a pleasing harmony in the mouth. “This uni is not bright yellow like others on the market,” says Hanada, “because it doesn’t use myoban (alum) to heighten the color.” The uni ’s natural purity brought out the rich seawater taste of Tsugaru Strait, and pairing
10 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
Chef Hideki Hanada outside of Kashu. 主厨花田秀树站在Kashu门外。
青森县无疑是日本最顶级的食材产区，为全球的 餐厅供应无与伦比的优质食材。在青森县的许多 日常餐馆中都透过简单的烹饪方式，讓客人品尝 到青森县的丰饶物产 ；而在顶级厨师的精心烹制 下，青森县的美味佳肴将会是更大的享受。 出生于青森县的主厨花田秀树曾在法国受 训，在 Michel Troisgros 和 François Gagnaire 麾 下位于日本与法国的几家餐厅工作过，后来加入 东京银座的 ESqUISSE。他最后回到青森，在父 亲的日式居酒屋餐厅工作。2020 年，他在青森 。 市开立 Kashu（花秀）
Kashu 隐身在青森车站附近安静住宅区的 一栋小屋，外面没有任何招牌，只有花田秀树家 族的家徽。Kashu 的烹饪风格与餐厅内部装潢同 样简约低调，理念相同。主厨花田秀树将青森县 的食材烹制成御膳料理，每晚亲自烹饪并在席前 为六位宾客上菜。
Kashu 的所有菜肴都是主厨花田秀树的自 由创作，以法式菜肴为基础，融入日本和中国菜 的元素，创作灵感则来自主厨每日取得的青森县 食材。他说 ： 「我不遵循任何食谱，在这里，宾 客永远不会看到两款同样的菜肴。 」 在近期的一次造访中，我们体验到主厨的 料理哲学。那道菜是当天的开胃菜，由大间的海 胆与三年陈的干乌鱼子制成，摆放在野生虎河豚 制成的鱼冻（煮凝り）上。来自海洋的多样口感 和风味交织成愉悦的和谐。主厨表示 ： 「因为没 有使用明矾来增加色彩亮度，这种海胆不像市面
TASTING NOTES
Fresh Kanagi horsemeat, walnuts, basil sauce, and Parmigiano-Reggiano 新鲜金木马肉、核桃、罗勒酱和帕玛森奶酪
the dish with Champagne elegantly enhanced the umami of each ingredient. Although Hanada doesn’t define a signature dish, he loves to use one specific ingredient whenever he has the chance. “Horsemeat from Kanagi, my hometown in the west of Aomori, is outstanding, but its supply is too limited for it to be well-known outside the region.” He prepared a tartare with this premium delicacy, combining it with walnuts, basil sauce, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. According to the chef, Kanagi horsemeat tastes absolutely fresh but also, without much seasoning, has a special depth of flavor like that of aged meat. “To enhance the flavor,” he says, “I tried various nuts and finally chose walnuts as the best companion for its buttery creaminess.”
12 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
Chef Hanada cuts charcoalgrilled ezo awabi before giving it a final touch.
Ezo awabi and two kinds of barley risotto, the darker one with abalone liver sauce
主厨将炭火烤制的虾夷鲍切成 小块，再进行最后的处理。
虾夷鲍和两种口味的烩饭， 深色的烩饭搭配了鲍鱼肝酱
上其他海胆那样呈亮黄色。 」海胆的天然纯净带 出津轻海峡浓郁的海水风味，与香槟搭配，能优 雅提升每种食材的鲜味。 虽然主厨没有明确表示哪道菜是自己的招 牌，但只要有机会，他特别喜欢用一种特定食材。 「我的故乡、青森西部金木的马肉非常出色，但 因为供应量有限，所以其他地区的人并不熟知这 项食材。 」 他用这种上等食材制作马肉鞑靼，并与核 桃、罗勒酱和帕玛森奶酪搭配。根据主厨介绍， 金木马肉吃起来新鲜无比，而且无需过多调味， 就能品尝到陈年肉品般的特殊风味。他说 ： 「为
His omakase continued with dishes like shark fin and sesame tofu with wasabi oil, perfectly paired with chardonnay. His Southern French style squid stew featured squid skillfully prepared with a traditional Japanese technique of concealed cuts. Hanada’s abalone dish was another standout. Ezo awabi is a special kind of abalone caught in Japan’s northern seas, where it thrives by eating only the best quality konbu. The chef charcoalgrilled the seafood to bring out its fluffy texture and add a smoky aroma. It was served with sticky barley rice-risotto, half of it cooked with abalone soup and the other half with abalone liver for more intense umami of the ocean. It made for a perfect winter dish in the best season for the area’s abalone.
了提升这种风味，我尝试各种坚果，最后选择核桃， 因为它的奶香味是金木马肉的最佳搭配。 」 其他令人惊喜的料理还包括鱼翅芝麻豆腐佐芥 茉油，与霞多丽白酒完美互补。他也运用日本传统的 暗切技法，巧妙烹制南法风格的鱿鱼炖菜。 鲍鱼料理则是另一个亮点。虾夷鲍是在日本北 部海域捕获的一种特殊鲍鱼，这种鲍鱼只吃最优质的 海带。主厨用炭火烧烤鲍鱼，令它的口感更加松软， 并增添烟熏香味。配搭的糯米薏米烩饭的其中一半用 鲍鱼汤烹制，另一半用鲍鱼肝烹制，成就更浓郁的海 洋鲜味。在当地鲍鱼生长的最佳季节，这是一道完美 的冬季美馔。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 13
TASTING NOTES
森林神话
myth of the forest Amid a dreamy Japanese landscape, Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel leads guests on a journey of relaxation and fine dining.
日本人自古便懂得欣赏四季之美，且无时无刻 FOR COUNTLESS GENERATIONS, Japanese sensibilities have been 都有感于万物兴衰。 cultivated toward an appreciation of the four seasons and an awareness 说到欣赏日本四季之美，青森的奥入濑 of the subtlest transformations of nature at every moment in time. 溪流总令人神往。奥入濑溪流源自十和田湖， One of the most enchanted destinations in Japan for immersion in 延绵长达十四公里，自 1928 年以来便是受文 the distinctive beauty of each season is Aomori’s Oirase Gorge, a river 化财产保护法认证的自然景观。 valley stretching fourteen kilometers from Lake Towada that since 1928 奥入濑溪流的春天总是以缓慢的步调开 has been certified as a natural monument under the Cultural Properties 展，仿佛在轻声歌颂严冬后的新 Preservation Law. BY 生。森林的翠绿象征夏天的到来， In Oirase Gorge, spring starts slowly, a gentle celebraMIYAKO KAI 山谷间回荡的溪语和鸟鸣展现了 tion of the new beginning of the cycle of life after an intense • 盛夏的生命力。到了秋天，满山遍 winter. Summer arrives with splashes of vibrant lush green PHOTOGRAPHY BY 谷的秋红令人叹为观止。鲜艳的 across the forest and the sounds of chattering streams and DAVID HARTUNG 色彩会在入冬后被冰雪覆盖，大 singing birds. Autumn takes the breath away with lavish red 地上只剩下漆黑的光秃树干，反 leaves covering the valley. Then comes winter, when all color 倒让奥入濑峡谷成了一幅神秘的水墨画。 is wiped out by snow and ice, leaving only the black of bare hardwood 星野集团奥入濑溪流酒店是溪流沿岸唯 trunks. Oirase Gorge becomes a mystical ink painting. 一的度假酒店，一进到酒店大堂，目光焦点 Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel is the only hotel built right in the 便落在休息区中央的大型艺术装置 ——「森林 midst of Oirase Gorge. Its most significant focal point is Mori no Shinwa 神话」 。这座巨大的青铜壁炉罩上刻有舞蹈人 (myth of the forest) in the lounge. This huge bronze fireplace hood 形、树木、蘑菇和动物等图案，其创作者冈 engraved with shapes of dancing humans, trees, mushrooms, and animals 本太郎是 20 世纪的传奇前卫艺术家，著名作 was created by Taro Okamoto, the legendary twentieth-century avant品包括陈列于东京涩谷车站的巨幅画作《明 garde artist whose famed monumental painting Asu no Shinwa (myth of 日神话》。 tomorrow) is displayed in Tokyo’s Shibuya Station. 酒店的种种细节都反映了当地之美，其 Every aspect of the hotel reflects the area’s beauty, including the 中包括法式餐厅 Sonore 的用餐体验。这间餐 dining experience at French restaurant Sonore, named for the sounds of 厅以奥入濑溪流的水声潺潺命名，行政总厨冈 Oirase Gorge. Executive Chef Ryosuke Oka creates symphonies of flavors 亮佑善用当地丰富的物产和时令食材，搭配世 by making full use of the abundance of fresh local and seasonal ingredi界各地的精选葡萄酒，谱出舌尖上的交响乐章。 ents and pairing them with select wines from around the world.
Mori no Shinwa (myth of the forest) by Taro Okamoto, 1991. At eight and a half meters high, it weighs five tons. 冈本太郎于1991年创作的《森之神话》，高达8.5米，重达五吨。
14 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
16 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
Maguro (tuna), a winter appetizer, is paired with L’Orange de la Dernière Colline 2021 from Domaine René et Vincent Fleith, Alsace, France, to enhance the smoky flavor of the dish’s traditional pickles, called iburigakko, from neighboring Akita Prefecture. 这道金枪鱼开胃菜搭配法国亚尔萨斯 Domaine René et Vincent Fleith酒庄的2021年 L’Orange de la Dernière Colline橘酒， 突显菜式中的秋田传统渍物烟熏萝卜 渍的浓郁风味。
Executive Chef Ryosuke Oka heads both Sonore at Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel and dining at Hoshinoya Tokyo. 冈亮佑，星野集团奥入濑溪流酒店Sonore餐厅及虹夕诺雅东京的餐饮负责人。
After passing through the forest-like hallway to the main dining room, guests are invited to sit outside in the crisp fresh air by the riverside. A welcoming glass of Champagne is paired with a selection of five amusebouches. Crafted with local delicacies, they include Hokki Gai (surf clam) Taco with Carrot, Burdock, and Sour Cream as well as Ravioli with Squid Dumpling and Pecorino Romano Cheese. Chef Oka, who has helmed Sonore since 2020, has based its concept on Aomori food culture, with tuna, the king of Aomori seafood, as a featured ingredient. “In my appetizer Maguro (tuna), layers of tuna tartare and sashimi are combined with the additional flavors and interesting textures of neighbouring Akita’s traditional smoked radish pickles, iburigakko , as well as lily bulbs and a refreshing accent of yuzu.” The chef points out that his tuna tartare is seasoned with “a homemade fermented tuna fish sauce that adds the dynamic aroma of the ocean. To create it, I use a rare part of tuna, in the freshest condition, a part obtainable because of the environment surrounded by ocean.”
18 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
客人在穿过如森林般的走廊后会来到主餐厅，并在空气清 新的河边就座，享用迎宾香槟及开胃小点。开胃小点的五道小 食皆采用当地顶级食材，包括北寄贝塔可饼佐胡萝卜、牛蒡、 酸奶油，以及用鱿鱼馄饨和罗马绵羊奶奶酪酱制成的意大利饺。 冈亮佑自 2020 年起担任 Sonore 的总厨，以青森海鲜之 「我的 王 —— 金枪鱼，作为他诠释当地料理特色的基础。他说 ： 开胃菜以金枪鱼鞑靼和金枪鱼刺身，搭配秋田传统烟熏萝卜渍、 百合球及柚子，增添风味和口感上的层次。 」总厨介绍他的金枪 鱼鞑靼 ： 「我使用了自家酿造的发酵金枪鱼酱调味，为料理增添 了大海的气息。因为身在沿海地区，金枪鱼的鲜度十足，我们 也用了金枪鱼的稀有部位来制作酱料。 」 另一道前菜为味噌焗扇贝，是对当地传统美食的全新演绎。 冈亮佑说 ： 「津轻地区的渔民使用扇贝壳烹制鸡蛋，并以小鱼干 和味噌制成的高汤为基底。除了使用传统的小鱼干高汤，我的 版本特别强调各种贝类的鲜味，也加入米饭增添绵密的口感。 料理以高汤炒鸡蛋为主体，最后以味噌泡沫和韭菜点缀。 」 享用完 Sonore 充满想像力的用餐体验后，客人可以回到 奥入濑溪流酒店舒适的客房或套房内继续丰富的感官体验。客 房将当地自然元素融入房间设计，住客在房内也可以感受河流 的悦耳低语所营造的舒心氛围，宛如轻柔的摇篮曲，引领住客 进入甜美的梦乡。
TASTING NOTES
↓
← The delicate presentation of Kaiyaki Miso surprises diners with the rich and rustic flavors of Aomori’s local ingredients, including fresh shellfish and homemade miso. 摆盘别有巧思的味噌 焗扇贝，重新诠释新 鲜贝类、自制味噌等 当地食材丰富浓厚的 风味，令人惊艳。
At the start of dinner by the riverside, guests may spot a wild animal, like the Japanese marten, roaming the forest. The blue of the custom-made Shigaraki ware used in serving the amusebouches is inspired by the river’s pristine water. 刚开始享用晚餐时，客人 有机会看到野生动物出 没，像是在森林中漫步的 日本貂。开胃小点使用专 门订制的信乐烧器皿， 碗内的水蓝色调以清澈 的河水为灵感而设计。
Every aspect of the hotel reflects the area’s beauty.
酒店的种种细节都 反映了当地之美。
Another appetizer, Kaiyaki Miso, is a complete makeover of a favorite local comfort food. “Fishermen in the Tsugaru region developed the original dish by using scallop shells to cook eggs with iriko dashi, which is made with dried small sardines, and miso. My version emphasizes the striking flavors of various shellfish, cooked with iriko dashi, and adds a creamy texture with rice. It has scrambled egg in the broth, which is covered with homemade miso foam and is topped with chives as a finishing touch.” After Sonore’s imaginative fine dining, guests may continue their immersive experience at Oirase Gorge in one of the hotel’s comfortable guest rooms or suites, which incorporate natural elements of the area in their interior design. The river’s mesmerizing murmur is also part of the hotel’s relaxing ambience, a gentle lullaby leading to restful dreams. f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 19
Omasaki, the northernmost point of Honshu, faces the frigid waters of Tsugaru Strait, the ultimate seafood paradise, rich with plankton. The brand name of Oma Tuna, considered the world’s finest, can be given only to those caught within five kilometers of this point. Less than eighteen kilometers across the strait lies Hokkaido. 本州最北端的大间崎邻近津轻海峡，因水域富有浮游生物而 盛产海鲜。只有在大间崎方圆五公里内捕捉到的金枪鱼，才 有资格称为最顶级的「大间金枪鱼」。大间崎距离海峡对岸 的北海道只有十八公里。
20 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
TRAVEL
丰饶之境
LAND of RICHES Aomori Prefecture captivates travelers with its bounty from land and sea, a flourishing culture, and a fascinating history. BY MIYAKO KAI • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
AT THE NORTHERNMOST TIP OF HONSHU, Japan’s largest island, is a region famed for scenic beauty, with seas surrounding it on three sides and two-thirds of its land area covered in lush forests. Enriched with abundant gifts from nature, Aomori, which means “blue forest,” has long been a place where tourists encounter unending surprises. One example is the spectacular Sannai Maruyama site, a reconstructed ancient village dating back to the Jōmon period (14,000–300 BC). It is one of eleven Jōmon locations in northern Japan that were certified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2021. The village, which flourished around the time of Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid, was once home to some five hundred people living peacefully in an organized society. Highlights include a three-story-high structure that may have been a watchtower and paved roads that lead to fishing sites on the river nearby. It’s easy to imagine the laughter that must have filled a spacious reconstructed hall with a fire pit, where villagers once gathered for communal feasts.
22 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
青森县位于日本最大岛本州的最北端。这里三面 环海，三分之二的土地被苍翠的森林覆盖，以如 画般的风景闻名。上天赐予青森物种丰富的自然 环境，总让来访的游客惊喜连连。 壮观的三内丸山遗址就是一个例子，这是 一座重建的古村落，其历史可以追溯到公元前
14,000-300 年的绳纹时期，是在 2021 年被联合 国教科文组织认定为日本北部十一座绳纹时期遗 址的其中一座。这座村庄最蓬勃发展的时候，约 和巨石阵与古夫金字塔同一时期，当时社会组织 的规模约为五百位居民。该遗址的主要特色包括 约有三层楼高、外观貌似瞭望塔的高台，以及为 了通往附近捕渔水域而铺设的道路。可以想像居 民曾在此齐聚一堂，环绕火坑，欢声连连。 现今的青森丰富的森林、田野和海洋资源， 为当地提供得天独厚的食材宝库，而从三内丸山
TRAVEL
↓
↓↓
The largest structure found at Sannai Maruyama is thirty-two by ten meters. Because it was built in the center of the village, it is assumed to have been a meeting venue, workshop, or communal residence.
The typical Jōmon burial ground was circular and covered with stones. 典型的绳纹时期墓地呈圆形的 结构，上面铺满了石头。
在三内丸山遗址发现的最大结构长宽为三十二米和 十米。由于这部分遗址位于村庄中心，当初可能是 作为集会场所、工作坊或共同居住所之类的用途。
Thousands of broken pieces of ancient tall clay pots from the Jōmon period were found at the Sannai Maruyama site and are being assembled and restored by researchers and local volunteers. The practice of pressing the surface of the unfired clay pots with ropes to create their distinctive design gives the name Jōmon, meaning “rope pattern,” to the period when they were made. 三内丸山遗址内发现了数千块绳纹时期的 古代长型陶罐碎片，研究人员和当地志工 积极投入文物修复的工作。当时，人们会 用绳子在尚未烧制的陶罐表面上印压特殊 的花纹，这也是这个时期被称作「绳纹」 时期的原因。
f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 23
The two-kilometer Aomori Bay Bridge in Aomori City is glimpsed from behind the red façade of the Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse. 从睡魔之家外围的红色钢片后看过去，可以看到 全长两公里的青森湾大桥，旁边是A-Factory， 馆内设有青森食品市场和苹果西打酒工房。
24 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
TRAVEL
TRAVEL
An ideal day in Towada might start with the museum, proceed to a local horsemeat lunch, and conclude with magical Oirase Gorge for relaxation followed by fine dining featuring the wide range of products that Aomori is known for.
想要来一趟十和田市一日游，可以从十和田市美术馆出发， 午餐品尝当地有名的马肉，然后到奥入濑溪流放松身心， 最后享用青森当地特色晚餐，为一天画下美好的句点。
Today, Aomori is an extraordinary treasure trove of ingredients from forest, field, and ocean, and the Sannai Maruyama site shows that it was already that in the Jōmon period. Local soil conditions have preserved wood and bones, giving researchers insight into Jōmon eating habits. Villagers hunted rabbits and giant flying squirrels, fished for amberjack and mackerel, and picked chestnuts and walnuts. The development of the tall Jōmon clay pot changed a way of life, serving as a vessel for both food storage and cooking. Residents today are tirelessly helping to restore unearthed pots from thousands of broken pieces. Adjoining the Sannai Maruyama site is the Aomori Museum of Art, which celebrates the development of human life and culture from ancient to modern times. On display are works of many of those among Japan’s most well-known artists who are Aomori natives, including worldrenowned Yoshitomo Nara. Local Nebuta festivals in Aomori feature floats with traditional gigantic paper lanterns. “Nebuta has always been part of our upbringing in Aomori,” says Hiroo Takenami, the acknowledged grand master of Nebuta creators. “Any kid with artistic interest and talent would have experienced being asked at school or home to help make Nebuta, and some had family members who were Nebuta artists, like Yoshitomo Nara’s uncle. Those early experiences honed our ability to visualize in three dimensions.” Nara’s Aomori Dog , an eight-and-a-half-meter-tall sculpture displayed outside the art museum, is a perfect example of his skill in creating massive forms that dominate the space and stir the emotions. Long-time fans of Japanese pop culture who grew up with Ultraman will be thrilled by the museum‘s collection of illustrations of the iconic superhero and his monster enemies by Toru Narita, an Aomori-native sculptor and character designer of Ultraman. Towada Art Center near Lake Towada is a serene place to interact with top-tier contemporary works by internationally famous artists like Yayoi Kusama and Ron Mueck. An ideal day in Towada might start with the museum, proceed to a local horsemeat lunch, and conclude with magical Oirase Gorge for relaxation followed by fine dining featuring the wide range of products that Aomori is known for.
遗址我们可以知道，青森在绳纹时期便已拥有 丰厚的资源。当地的土壤条件保存了木材和骨 骼，让学者可以深入研究绳纹时期人们的饮食 习惯。当时，村民主要以兔子、巨型飞鼠、鰤 鱼及鲭鱼为主食，也会采摘栗子和核桃。 长型绳纹陶罐的出现，改变了人们的生 活方式，它们用作保存和烹煮食物的容器。时 至今日，当地居民仍不断努力地从成千上万破 碎的出土碎片中进行陶罐修复。 坐落于三内丸山遗址旁的就是青森美术 馆，馆内纪录了从古到今人类生活与文化的发 展，也展示了许多知名青森艺术家的作品，包 括名声遍及全球的奈良美智。 「睡魔祭」是青森市当地特有的庆典，以 具代表性的传统巨大纸灯笼为特色。著名的灯 笼师竹浪比吕央先生说 ： 「灯笼一直是青森人 成长历程中很重要的部分。在青森，对艺术有 兴趣和才华的孩子，都可能被学校或家里要求 一起制作灯笼。有些人的家人甚至就是灯笼师 傅，像是奈良美智的叔叔也是灯笼师傅。年轻 时制作灯笼的经历让我们培养了很好的空间 感。 」说到青森艺术家对于空间的掌握，奈良 美智陈列在艺术博物馆外的八米半高雕塑「青 森犬」便是一个很好的例子。这件作品展示了 他的创作技巧，作品主导着空间、更激发起情 感。 如 果 您 是 一 位 日 本 动 漫 爱 好 者， 看 着
Ultraman 奥特曼长大，那您绝对不能错过青 森美术馆收藏的奥特曼插画手稿。这些插画是 由青森雕塑家， 《奥特曼》的角色设计者 —— 成田亨创作。 十和田市现代美术馆邻近清幽的十和田 湖，在此您可以近距离欣赏草间弥生、 Ron
Mueck 等国际知名艺术家的作品。想要来一 趟十和田市一日游，可以从十和田市美术馆
Aomori Dog by Yoshitomo Nara evokes associations with the neighboring Sannai Maruyama, suggesting an artifact waiting to be fully excavated. In winter, visitor access to the sculpture is blocked by snow, which also tops the dog’s head. 奈良美智的《青森犬》让人联想到附近的三内丸山，仿佛在暗示有什么宝藏等着被人们发现。 到了冬天，游客因为积雪无法接近雕像，而头上方的白雪堆，就像小狗戴着帽子一样。
26 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
Bouillabaisse from Sky Dining Soleil at Hachinohe Grand Hotel is made with the most lavish array of seafood from the Hachinohe area. The comforting Marseillestyle dish is an explosion of umami flavor. 八户大酒店的Sky Dining Soleil餐厅使用八 户地区丰盛的海产制作马赛鱼汤，令人陶醉 的风味可说是一场「鲜味」的味觉盛宴。
28 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
TRAVEL
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
29
TRAVEL
Hasshoku Center in Hachinohe is a tourist-friendly source of both local and imported seafood, including premium tiger blowfish and an izakaya favorite, hokke (Atka mackerel). Customers rent a grill and prepare their selections at the market’s indoor barbecue area, where charcoal is well-prepared and ready for cooking. 在八户的八食中心，游客可以同时买到 当地捕捞和外国进口的海产，包括河豚 及居酒屋最爱用的一款鲭鱼。市场的室 内烧烤区已经备好炭火，客人可以租 用烤架，随时烹制他们挑选的食材。
30 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
Chief among these is the region’s superlative seafood. The east-coast fishing town of Hachinohe is a must stop for lovers of seafood, with six hundred varieties locally available. In Hachinohe’s Hasshoku Center, diners barbecue their own selections of the freshest seafood right on the premises. And during February and March, the town is home to the Hachinohe Bouillabaisse Festival, held annually since 2012. A dozen restaurants, including the Hachinohe Grand Hotel, participate in the event, which stipulates two rules: (1) The bouillabaisse must be prepared with at least four types of seafood from the Port of Hachinohe, and locally grown vegetables should be used as much as possible; (2) A secondary dish must be prepared that makes use of the soup of the bouillabaisse in an original way.
出发，午餐品尝当地有名的马肉，然后到奥入濑溪 流放松身心，最后享用青森当地特色晚餐，为一天 画下美好的句点。 青 森 盛 产 海 鲜， 而 东 海 岸 的 八 户 渔 镇 有 多 达 六百种品项可供选择，是海鲜爱好者的必游之地。 在八户的八食中心，您可以自行挑选活跳跳的海鲜， 当场进行烧烤。此外，八户市自 2012 年以来，每年 二至三月期间会举行一年一度的「八户马赛鱼汤祭」 ， 包括八户大酒店等数十间餐厅会共襄盛举。马赛鱼 汤祭有两条规则 ：(1) 要大量使用八户港的海鲜 —— 马赛鱼汤必须用至少四种来自八户港产的海鲜，并 尽量使用当地种植的蔬菜 ；(2) 必须以原创方式使用 马赛鱼汤的汤来制作副菜，乐享多种美味。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 31
TASTING DESTINATION
海洋之王
king of the sea At the northernmost point of Honshu is Oma, hometown of the world’s most treasured tuna.
A VISITOR to any premium sushi restaurant will see Oma
Tuna proudly displayed as the undisputed king of sushi ingredients. With its perfect balance of refreshing flavor and rich creaminess, it is considered the ocean’s greatest gift. Every January, the astonishing news about the latest high bid for tuna at the annual new year auction at Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market spreads around the world. The most expensive specimen is usually from Oma, with the recordbreaking price reaching more than 333.6 million yen in 2019. As the largest bluefin variety found in the Pacific Ocean, Oma Tuna typically weigh over 100 kilograms, and to be branded as such, they are required to adhere to rigorous rules, the most basic of which is that they must have been fished within five kilometers BY of the Cape of Oma in Tsugaru Strait in Aomori MIYAKO KAI Prefecture. • Oma is a quiet fisherman’s town at PHOTOGRAPHY BY the northern edge of Japan’s main island of DAVID HARTUNG Honshu, but those visiting it from August to January may witness celebrating fishermen coming back from the sea with their newly caught prizes, often called “black diamonds” because of their high value and shining black skins. At the Cape of Oma, visitors encounter a giant statue of an Oma Tuna inspired by one weighing 445 kilograms that was caught in 1994, the largest on record. Among the town’s most popular dining spots is Omanzoku, a casual restaurant run by veteran fisherman Kaoru Takeuchi and his wife, Noriko. Their signature Oma Tuna Rice Bowl is a dream come true for discerning fans of the town’s renowned product. Kaoru, who is now retired from tuna fishing, has passed his boat on to his son. Both are known as exceptional fishermen, and they have the honor of having caught two tuna
32 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
The famous Oma Tuna statue represents the largest tuna caught by pole and line, a difficult technique employed so as not to damage the skin. 大间金枪鱼雕像的原型是渔 民用「一根钓线」所捕获到 的体型最大的金枪鱼。「一 根钓线」是一种为了不损伤 表皮而采用的高难度技术。
不管是在哪一家高级寿司店，宾客都能看到大间金枪鱼以寿 司食材之王的姿态出现在料理中。大间金枪鱼在清爽的风味 与浓郁幼滑的口感之间达到完美平衡，被誉为海洋最伟大的 礼物。 每年一月，金枪鱼在东京豊洲市场一年一度的拍卖会 上，惊人的拍卖价都会传遍世界各地。最昂贵的品种通常来 自大间，2019 年的破纪录价格超过 3.336 亿日圆。 大间金枪鱼是太平洋中体型最大的蓝鳍金枪鱼品种， 通常重达一百公斤以上。要获得大间金枪鱼的称号，必须符
that brought the highest bid of the year: 20.2 million yen in 2001 and 155.4 million yen in 2013. “It’s because of what Oma Tuna eat,” explains Noriko when asked for the secret of its extraordinary flavor. “Tsugaru Strait is a junction of three different currents and two different oceans, with an abundance of the best plankton that attract high-quality fish like squid and mackerel.” Once Oma Tuna achieved the status of a high-value brand, strict rules were established to protect its authenticity.
合严格标准，其中最基本的一项是该鱼必须是在青森县津 轻海峡大间岬五公里范围所捕捞。 大间是日本本州岛北部边缘的一个宁静渔村。每年八 月至次年一月期间，到此地旅游的民众可能会遇到带着新 捕捞的战利品、欢欣鼓舞地从海上归来的渔民。这些战利 品通常被称为「黑钻石」 ，因为这些鱼货价值不菲，而且 外皮乌黑发亮。大间岬有一座巨大的金枪鱼雕像，其灵感 来自 1994 年捕获的一条重达 445 公斤的金枪鱼，它是有 史以来体型最庞大的金枪鱼。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 33
TASTING DESTINATION
↓ Candy called Oma Fisherman, made with salt harvested from Tsugaru Strait, is inspired by fishermen’s tears of joy at encountering a worthy tuna. 用津轻海峡海盐为原料的「大间渔民」糖果，灵感 来自渔民在捕获金枪鱼时流下的喜悦泪水。
→ Stickers bear the regional collective trademark of Oma Tuna, which is authorized only for those weighing more than thirty kilograms and caught within five kilometers of the Cape of Oma. 只有在大间岬五公里范围内捕获、重量超过30公斤的金枪 鱼，才有权使用印有「大间金枪鱼」地区的联合商标。 ↓ Oma fishermen who make a big haul indicate it to family and friends on shore by hanging special flags like these on their boats. 大间渔民在捕获大量金枪鱼时，会在船上 挂上这种旗帜，来通知岸上的亲朋好友。
↑ Omanzoku’s signature Oma Tuna Rice Bowl, priced at only 3740 yen, features fatty, medium-fatty, and lean tuna. 「大间んぞく」 的招牌「大间金 枪鱼盖饭」售 价仅为3740日 圆，金枪鱼有 肥脂丰厚、适 中和脂肪较少 的三种肉质。
34 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
“Since 2007, we cannot buy Oma Tuna directly from local fishermen anymore,” says Noriko, “and every tuna caught here must go to Tokyo for auctions. But we still have an advantage as locals, because we know every single tuna caught on any day in Oma.” Before a truck with the day’s catch leaves town that night, the Takeuchi family will have called a fish broker in Tokyo to specify exactly which tuna they would like to buy. The same truck returns to Oma directly after the early morning auction, and the Takeuchis’ chosen tuna is already in their kitchen by 10:00 a.m. “This streamlined procedure,” smiles Noriko, “makes it possible for us to serve great quality Oma Tuna in our small restaurant at a reasonable price.”
「大间んぞく」是镇上其中一间最受欢迎的餐厅，由资深渔民竹内薫和太 太竹内纪子共同经营。他们的招牌金枪鱼盖饭，完美满足挑剔的食客对当地名 产的追寻与向往。 竹内薫现已退休、不再捕捞金枪鱼，并将自己的渔船传承给儿子。两人都 是名闻遐迩的出色渔民，他们曾有幸捕获两条当年出价最高的金枪鱼。在 2001 与 2013 年，他们分别捕获拍卖价 2020 万日圆和 1.554 亿日圆的金枪鱼。 被问及大间金枪鱼风味独特的秘密时，竹内纪子表示 ： 「这是因为大间金 枪鱼所摄取的食物。津轻海峡是三个不同洋流与两大洋的交会处，有丰富的优 质浮游生物，吸引鱿鱼和鲭鱼等高品质的海中生物。 」 大间金枪鱼取得高品质的品牌地位之后，官方制定严格规则来维护其正统 与真实性。竹內纪子表示 ： 「自 2007 年起，我们再也不能直接从当地渔民购买 大间金枪鱼，这里捕捞的所有金枪鱼都必须运往东京进行拍卖。但身为当地人， 我们仍有优势，因为我们认得出每天在大间地区捕获的每一条金枪鱼。 」 每天晚上，在一辆装载当日捕获金枪鱼的卡车驶离小镇之前，竹内一家会 打电话给东京的渔获仲介，明确指定他们想买哪一条金枪鱼。这辆卡车在清晨 的拍卖会结束后会直接返回大间，竹内家选定的金枪鱼也因此能在早在上午十 点来到他们的厨房。 竹内纪子笑着说 ： 「这个精简化的流程，让我们能以合理的价格在小餐馆 里提供优质的大间金枪鱼。 」 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 35
武士与马肉
horsemeat, samurai style A Japanese delicacy traces its origins to the twelfth-century emergence of the samurai and a region ideal for raising their horses.
Kiccho’s specialty of Yoshitsune Nabe, or horsemeat hot pot, is a favorite of both locals and tourists, served on an iron plate with depressions to catch the melted fat of the grilled meat. 吉兆的「义経锅」深受青森 当地人和游客的喜爱。特制 铁盘的四角都有一个凹槽， 用来收集烤马肉时的油脂。
TASTING DESTINATION
ALTHOUGH DINING on horsemeat did not begin in Japan’s Aomori Prefecture until the last century, the region has a long history of raising superior horses, dating back to the Kamakura period when the samurai emerged under the shoguns. Aomori was appointed as a major region for supplying horses to the samurai because its cool summers and harsh winters were perfect for producing the strongest and hardiest specimens. These same conditions also proved ideal for fattening horses with the tastiest flesh. Those unfamiliar with horsemeat are often surprised by its flavorful balance of melting texture and firm, lean meat. It is also low in calories, fat, and cholesterol and high in protein, iron, glycogen, and amino acids. Kiccho in Aomori’s Towada City is a popular restaurant specializing in horsemeat. Chef Hiroki Sawai, in addition to offering Japan’s favorite horsemeat dish, basashi (horse sashimi), has added sushi, steak, and smoked forms of the delicacy. The chef’s Yoshitsune Nabe, a horsemeat hot pot, evokes Aomori’s samurai associations. It is named for Yoshitsune Minamoto, a handsome and brilliant samurai warrior, the younger brother of the first shogun, Yoritomo Chef Hiroki Sawai has been creating horsemeat Minamoto, who became envious of Yoshitsune’s populardishes since Kiccho opened in 1993. ity and schemed to accuse him of treason. 主厨沢井広喜自吉兆在1993年开业以来， Legend holds that Yoshitsune escaped capture and 持续推出不同的马肉料理。 fled to Aomori during freezing weather. Kindly priests in a local temple welcomed him with a hotpot of wild birds and mush虽然日本青森县在上世纪才开始食用马肉，但该地 rooms to keep up his spirits. The BY 区饲养优质马匹的历史悠久，可追溯至在幕府将军 tragic hero’s tale has long been MIYAKO KAI 统治下掀起武士风潮的镰仓时代。青森县被钦定为 told in kabuki and novels, and • 提供武士马匹的主要地区，这里的夏季凉爽，冬季 Yoshitsune Nabe became a local PHOTOGRAPHY BY 严寒，适合培育雄壮强健的马匹。 specialty in Japan’s horsemeat DAVID HARTUNG 这样的气候条件也非常适合培育肉质鲜美的肥 producing regions, even if the hot 壮马匹。马肉的口感既滑顺绵密，又紧实弹牙，时 pot the young samurai ate did not 常让不熟悉马肉的食客为之惊艳。此外，马肉的热量、脂肪与胆固醇含量低，具 contain horsemeat. 有丰富的蛋白质、铁、糖原和氨基酸。 The dish is served on a spe青森县十和田市的吉兆是一家专营马肉的人气餐厅。主厨沢井広喜除了提 cial iron plate. “Its shape is taken 供日本人最爱的马肉菜肴马肉刺身，还推出寿司、马肉排及烟熏马肉等美食。 from the samurai helmet,” says 主厨的马肉火锅「义経锅」让人联想到青森的武士阶层。 「义経锅」的命名 Chef Sawai. “It has a hot pot sec来自一位英俊优秀的武士源义経，他是初代将军源頼朝的弟弟。源頼朝因嫉妒弟 tion in the middle for dipping 弟的名声，密谋指控他叛国。 horsemeat in the soup, and the 传说中，源义経逃脱追捕，在严寒中来到青森，当地寺庙里好心的住持为 surrounding parts for grilling can 他准备了野鸟和蘑菇火锅，让他振作起来。这个悲剧英雄故事在歌舞伎和小说中 be used individually according to 流传已久， 「义経锅」也成为日本马肉产区的著名特产，不过当地年轻武士吃的 each person’s taste.” 火锅中并不包括马肉。 马肉火锅使用特制铁盘承装。主厨沢井広喜说 ： 「铁盘形似武士头盔。中间 是火锅，能将马肉蘸在汤里，周围则是烧烤盘，可以根据个人喜好分別享用马肉 和配料。 」 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 37
Every household in Takko hangs harvested garlic under the eaves for family consumption. 田子町家家户户 廊檐下都悬挂着 采收后的大蒜， 供一家人食用。
38 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
TASTING DESTINATION
Aomori black garlic 青森黑蒜
青森黑钻
black diamonds In Japan’s Aomori Prefecture, farmers slow-ferment their premium-quality garlic to create a unique ingredient prized around the world.
青森县位于日本本州岛的最北端，气候适合种 AS THE NORTHERNMOST PREFECTURE on Japan’s main island of 植大蒜，田子町的小村落是大蒜产业的中心。 Honshu, Aomori offers an ideal climate for garlic-growing, an industry 田子町大蒜中心的总务总监佐藤恵子说 ： 「田 centered on the small village of Takko. “Takko has ideal soil for garlic 子町的土壤含有火山灰和畜养牛只产生的天然 farming, enriched by volcanic ash and natural fertilizer from cattle rais堆肥，非常肥沃，适合种植大蒜。 ing,” says Keiko Sato, General Affairs Division Director of Takko 气候也恰好合适，夏天凉爽，冬天 BY Garlic Center. “The climate is also right – cool summers and 有雪。 」 MIYAKO KAI snowy winters.” 黑 蒜 于 2000 年 初 被 开 发 出 • To make use of some of the area’s super-abundance of 来，一开始是为了善用本地产量过 PHOTOGRAPHY BY the crop, black garlic was invented in the early 2000s. To pro剩的作物。白蒜蒜瓣经过缓慢的发 DAVID HARTUNG duce it, white cloves of garlic are slow-fermented, turning an 酵，变成如黑玛瑙一般的色泽，散 onyx-like black and developing subtle, molasses-like sweet发出糖蜜般的芬芳，略带黏性，十分讨喜。 ness and a delightful stickiness. 日本医界研究人员很快注意到黑蒜对健 In Japan, black garlic quickly attracted the attention of medical 康有着重大功效，其抗氧化物质比普通大蒜高 researchers, who discovered its substantial health benefits. Containing f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 39
40 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
TASTING DESTINATION
“Takko has ideal soil for garlic farming, enriched by volcanic ash and natural fertilizer.
田子町的土壤含有火山灰和天然堆肥， 非常肥沃，适合种植大蒜。” Keiko Sato 佐藤恵子 far more antioxidants than ordinary garlic, including eight times more polyphenol, it also offers nutrients like GABA that appear only after fermentation. Despite the wide price difference between them, two of Aomori’s highly prized signature ingredients, Oma Tuna and black garlic, are known as “black diamonds.” In the Western realm of fine dining, Aomori black garlic was discovered by legendary Ferran Adrià, chef of Spain’s now-closed El Bulli, who used it as an aromatic glaze or flavorful purée – without the annoyance of garlic breath. Thus Spain became the first export destination of Aomori black garlic, which now ships to more than twenty-five countries. “Between September and October,” says Sato, “we plant garlic under thermal sheets to provide the best conditions and allow it to accumulate sugar content slowly for over four to five months under the snow. In spring, we remove overgrown stems and any sign of blooms to concentrate nutrients in the cloves until harvest in May or June.” The women of the village process the harvest as a chatty social gathering, their entire bodies covered as protection against the irritating juice. At the Takko Garlic Center, visitors can shop for garlic products, including black garlic, or enjoy the local specialty, Takko Garlic Steak Gohan. “It’s a feast,” says Sato, “that features Takko garlic, both white and black, combined with artisanal local ingredients, including pork, beef, chicken, fish, and vegetables.”
出许多，例如多酚就高达八倍之多，另有 发酵之后才会产生的营养素，如 γ- 胺基 丁酸。 尽管闻名的青森大间金枪鱼和黑蒜 价格相差较大，但由于它们都品质上乘， 而且非常珍贵，所以两者都被称为「黑 钻」 。 在西方国家的精致餐饮界，堪称业 界传奇的西班牙米其林一星餐厅 El Bulli （已歇业）主厨 Ferran Adrià 率先发现黑 蒜的妙处。他将黑蒜捣碎成泥后，用来增 添料理的香气和光泽，食用后口中也不会 残留异味。因此青森黑蒜最早只出口到西 班牙，现今已运往超过二十五个国家。 「每年九月至十月，我们会在保温毯 下种植大蒜，创造最佳的环境条件，让大 蒜在冬雪的四至五个月期间累积更多糖 分。到了春天，我们修剪多余的茎和冒出 头的花，只让蒜瓣继续生长，直到五、六 月采收。 」佐藤恵子说。 村中的女人聚在一处谈天，手中不 停处理采收后的大蒜，她们全身穿上保护 罩，以免被大蒜汁溅到。 游客可在田子町大蒜中心选购各式 大蒜产品，包括黑蒜，也可享用当地美食： 田子町大蒜牛排饭。佐藤恵子说 ： 「这餐 点十分丰盛，最大特色是田子町的白蒜和 黑蒜，加上传统手工制的本地食材，例如 猪肉、牛肉、鸡肉、鱼和蔬菜。 」
← The nine appetizers of Takko Garlic Steak Gohan (from top row, left to right): garlic and sesame sauce salad, fried tofu with natto garlic miso, garlic carrot soup, spicy chicken rolls, cold ajillo with local fish, garlic and plum tartare millefeuille, garlic pork miso rice ball, local style pickles, cheese cake with black garlic cassis sauce. The set menu also includes a welcome drink of garlic coke; garlic sushi wrapped with BBQ beef, pork, and chicken; miso soup; and garlic ice cream.
田子町大蒜牛排饭包括九道前菜（从最上 排，由左到右）：芝麻酱大蒜沙拉、煎豆腐 佐味噌腌蒜、大蒜胡萝卜汤、香辣鸡肉卷、 冷蒜本地鱼、大蒜青梅鞑靼千层酥、大蒜猪 肉味噌饭团、青森渍物、黑蒜及黑醋栗酱配 奶酪蛋糕。这个套餐还包括大蒜可乐，还有 烧牛肉、猪肉和鸡肉大蒜寿司，以及味噌汤 和大蒜冰淇淋。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 41
TASTING NOTES
诗咏珍馐
poetry on a plate With the opening of Niras, Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn brings Bangkok’s acclaimed Le Du to Hong Kong.
“I THINK THE HONG KONG DINER has a good understanding
「我发现香港客人对于泰国菜很有概念。 Ton 说 ：
他们经常前往泰国旅游，对于当地饮食的口味非 about Thai food. People here travel to Thailand a lot and are familiar 常熟悉，这代表我们在香港呈现最道地的泰国料 with the region’s flavors,” says Ton. “This means we can make the food 理，他们也会喜欢。我们想把泰国料理推广出去， in our restaurant in Hong Kong exactly the same as we do in Thailand, 而我们在香港的餐厅 Niras，可说是泰国本店 Le completely authentic, and people will love it. We want to get our food Du 的在港驻点。」 outside of Thailand, and Niras is an outpost of Le Du, in a way.” Niras 位于香港的 K11 Musea，并以泰国古 Located in K11 Musea, the restaurant is named for an ancient Thai 代诗人游历四方，用诗歌记录旅程的传统命名。 tradition of poets traveling the world and chronicling their journeys in 「Niras 就是那位述说我们故 poetry. “Niras is the poet that will tell our story,” he says. Ton 说 ： BY 事的诗人。 」 Niras showcases Chef Ton’s innovative cooking techLUCY MORGAN Niras 让 Ton 有另一个大显身手 niques designed to bring out the ultimate flavors and textures • 的舞台，并透过创新的料理方法完美 from the finest ingredients. “This is high-end cuisine,” says PHOTOGRAPHY BY 呈现顶级食材的风味和质感。Ton 说 ： Ton. “I want to change people’s attitudes to Thai food – they DAVID HARTUNG 「我们把自己定位成高级料理。我想 think of Japanese or French as elevated, but not Thai. 改变人们对于泰国菜的态度 —— 大家 “I’m going to help people learn about the complexity 对于日本或法国料理的印象往往是『高级』的， and elegance of Thai cuisine. And I’m not just going to do that in my 对于泰国菜却并非如此。 」 restaurant, I want to represent the whole country. I hope to inspire 「我想让人们认识泰国菜的复杂性和优雅， the younger generation to cook like this, to teach them to show their 而且我不只想在餐厅里发挥影响力，更期待影响 diners how special Thai food is.” 整个泰国。我想鼓励年轻人也让泰国菜精致化， Ton goes on to explain how the range of seasonal riches available 并教导他们如何让顾客体验到泰国菜有多特别。 」 in Thailand from month to month affects the menus at his Michelinstarred restaurant in Bangkok, which was ranked number one by Asia’s Ton 接着分享泰国丰富的时令食材如何塑造 50 Best Restaurants 2023. At Niras, Ton intends to make the most of Le Du 的菜单 —— 这间餐厅不仅有米其林星级认 证，更荣获 2023 年「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」排行榜 local seafood and has been in talks with Hong Kong fish suppliers to 第一。在 Niras，Ton 从当地海产着手，目前正在 source the highest quality products. 和香港本地鱼商洽谈，以获取最高品质的货源。 Diners can expect a tempting lunch tasting menu as well as a choice between a four-course or a more indulgent six-course dinner Niras 提供午间和晚间套餐，其中晚间套餐 有四道或六道菜式两种选项，其中的菜式都会定 tasting menu, all of which will change regularly to reflect available sea「我们 期转换，以反映食材的时令性。Ton 说 ： sonal produce. “We’ll be offering some of our famous Le Du dishes for 将为香港客人提供部分 Le Du 招牌菜式，像是红 our Hong Kong guests, like Grouper with Thai Kale in Choo Chee Curry 咖喱石斑鱼配泰国羽衣甘蓝和松叶蟹菇菌饭。除 and Crab with Mushroom and Homemade Sriracha,” says Ton, “and 了还原本店招牌，我们也希望推出一些能展现 Le we’re also hoping to create some new dishes with the same DNA as Le Du, but made especially for Niras.” Du 精神的 Niras 限定菜式。」
100 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn
Kevin Lai 赖祥如
P R E S E N T E D B Y T H E S T . R E G I SF EMAATCUAROE
品饮艺术 别致诠释
elegance and surprises The St. Regis Bar Macao blends lush décor with deliciously imaginative cocktails.
如果在酒吧随机找一个资深酒客，让他报一款古典 THERE’S A GOOD CHANCE that any bar-goer asked to name 鸡尾酒，血腥玛丽（Bloody Mary）大概率会在前 10 the quintessential cocktail will name the Bloody Mary. It remains 位出现 —— 它绝对是最受欢迎的古典鸡尾酒之一。 the signature cocktail of the St. Regis brand, with each branch 血腥玛丽是每家瑞吉酒店的酒吧酒单上最重要 of the worldwide hotel chain offering its own unique take on the 的一杯酒，也是酒店的经典标志之一。每家瑞吉酒店 classic. 的血腥玛丽都不尽相同，酒店会根据当地的历史、文 The St. Regis Bar Macao’s interpretation of the iconic drink, 化、物产等条件，为血腥玛丽增加一些带有当地特色 called Maria do Leste, draws inspiration from Macao’s East-meets的元素，成为瑞吉酒店与当地文化结合的标志。 West culture. Based on the original mix of vodka and tomato juice, 在 澳 门 瑞 吉 酒 店 的 瑞 吉 酒 吧， 「东方玛丽」 the cocktail features a synergy of ingredients initially brought over （Maria do Leste）就是这么一种美妙的 by Portuguese merchants, including Indian paprika BY 结合。在经典基础上，加入了葡萄牙商 which, when mixed with local Chinese black vinegar, HUANG SHAN 人从世界各地海岸带来的特色材料，例 creates a smoky and spicy flavor. Fresh tomatoes are • 如由葡萄牙殖民者从印度带回欧洲的 combined with canned tomatoes to ensure that the PHOTOGRAPHY BY Paprika 辣椒粉等。这些辣椒与中国黑醋 tomato juice concentration remains rich and balanced.
DAVID HARTUNG 形成酸辣的风味。番茄则用了新鲜番茄 The St . Regis Bar also replaces the side of 和罐头番茄，两者的混合让番茄汁的浓 bacon traditionally served with a Bloody Mary with a 度达到了相对平衡的状态，既不会太「水」 ，也不会 Portuguese chouriço sausage and a lobster egg tart. The pairing of 过于浓郁而失去新鲜口感。 cocktails and finger food, cleverly crafted by The St. Regis Bar Head 一般的血腥玛丽会放上一块培根，澳门瑞吉酒 Mixologist Kevin Lai, is another tribute to the former colonial cul吧则把它换成一块葡萄牙经典的 Chouriço 辣肉肠， ture of Macau. 放在酒杯旁，作为下酒小吃，再配上一块融合澳门特 Lai, who was born and raised in Taiwan, started bartend色、由葡挞变身而成的龙虾挞。这一组反映了澳门前 ing in Taipei. Over the past decade, he has worked at the Catail 殖民地文化的东方玛丽鸡尾酒及小吃组合，让人眼前 in Beijing and in Guangzhou’s Hope & Sesame, one of Asia’s most 一亮。调制这一杯的，是澳门瑞吉酒吧的调酒师赖祥 popular spots, ranking number 39 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 。 如（Kevin） 2023. Over the course of his career, Lai has participated in a variety of bartending competitions and guest bartending events and has Kevin 在台湾出生长大，在台北展开他的调酒 师职业生涯。在接下来的十年间，他先后在北京的 served as an industry consultant. Today’s bar-goers tend to look for unique drinks and fresh Catail 前苑和广州庙前冰室工作 ；后者是亚洲地区最 受欢迎的酒吧之一，在 2023 年「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」 takes on classic cocktails. For mixologists like Lai, that means cre榜单中排名第 39 名。Kevin 也透过参与世界各地不 ating new cocktails has become a daily part of the job. He finds 同的客席调酒师活动、调酒比赛、担任顾问工作等， inspiration in his love of food and travel, often drawing on local 累积了丰富的经验。 customs and cultures for new ideas.
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
103
104 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
105
PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO
M A C A O EG G TA R T In a drink that suggests the famous Portuguese egg tart , tasting of butter and baked goodness, plantation dark rum is paired with advocaat liqueur, cream, milk, and a garnish of lemon juice and salt. The drink’s heavenly caramel-and-milk-infused aroma is perfectly complemented by the rum’s spiciness. As each sip of the cocktail, which is topped with flowershaped sweet crisps, is followed by a bite of crisp, this “liquid Portuguese tart” fills the senses with the richness of eggs and cream. 听到名字就让人联想到充满奶油和烘焙香味的葡 挞。它的主要基酒是 Plantation 黑兰姆酒，配上 白兰地蛋黄酒、奶油、牛奶，以少许柠檬汁和盐 点缀，在杯口放上花朵造型、奶香四溢的面粉脆 片。这杯鸡尾酒的焦糖和奶的香味结合得非常出 色，黑朗姆酒微微的辛香料香味更起了画龙点睛 的作用。喝一口鸡尾酒，再吃一口脆片，能让浓 郁的蛋香味在舌尖上叠加到极致，称它为「液体 葡挞」也不为过。
S TO N E WA L L This drink’s name is a reference to the Stonewall Inn in New York City’s Greenwich Village and the famous “rainbow tribe” movement it spawned. Reading about this period in the history of gay rights, Lai was inspired to adapt the Long Island Iced Tea, a widely popular drink at the time, replacing the original cola with clear Fanta and adding clarified cucumber juice for a refreshing taste. In a nod to the colors of the “rainbow tribe,” the drink is garnished with eyecatching multicolored cotton candy. 鸡尾酒的名字来自纽约「彩虹族」文化圣地
Stonewall Inn 酒吧。1969 年，同性恋社群的 成员在这家酒吧发起抗争行动，争取权利。
Kevin 受这段历史啓发，把那个年代流行的长 岛冰茶做了变奏，把可乐换成了颜色更透亮 的芬达，另外加入了澄清的黄瓜汁，让口感 更清爽、更易入口 ；最后，他还在杯上点缀 了象征「彩虹族」的彩虹色棉花糖，以这一 杯酒致敬这段历史故事。
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
107
PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
109
F ERAETSUE R P NET E D B Y T H E S T . R E G I S M A C A O
As a result, the drink list at The St. Regis Bar Macao is full of surprises. Lai’s cocktail Modern Art, for example, is inspired by New York’s Museum of Modern Art and features Speyside gin mixed with fino sherry, elderflower liqueur, guava shrub, and lime juice for a taste both lively and balanced. Garnet Sour is his take on the classic New York Sour, inspired by the wave of Portuguese immigration to the US in the late 1940s, that combines rye whiskey and ruby port wine from Portugal to create a drink that arrives with a full body. Another favorite is Dia de Fiesta, celebrating the diverse cultures and rich contributions of Hispanic Americans in the US. Featuring mezcal as its base, the cocktail delivers complex flavors from a unique mix of dragon fruit syrup, jalapeño, olive juice, and rosé wine. The St. Regis Bar is known not only for its cocktails, but also for its sumptuous ambience designed by Hong Kong architect Steve Leung and his team. To echo the historical origins of the hotel, the team drew heavily from New York at the turn of the century to create a low-key yet luxurious atmosphere filled with the timeless charm of classic motifs. A centerpiece of the bar is a wall mural depicting a lush vision of Macao in its heyday as a port city. A crane, a Chinese symbol of longevity, flies across a golden sky, and lotus flowers, emblematic of Macao, bloom in the water. A closer look reveals the Barcelos Rooster and an armillary sphere, an astrolabe, and other navigational tools that hearken back to former Portuguese colonial presence. The richly detailed atmosphere is accentuated by classic green marble countertops and the onstage piano for the bar’s frequent jazz nights. A further hallmark of the bar is top-notch service, attentive yet discreet, that echoes the personalized customer service the St. Regis brand is famous for. Behind the bar, mixologists are always willing to recommend drinks and even customize selections upon request. The St. Regis Bar Macao, says Lai, continues to expand its drink list and looks forward to hosting guest mixologist events designed to advance its status among Asia’s best bar destinations. His goal is to create a space with a timeless ambience where guests from all walks of life can enjoy the absolute best in drinks, food, and service.
时 至 今 日， 大 部 分 酒 客 可 能 已 经 不 会 满 足 于 正 宗 的 古典鸡尾酒，因此创作新的酒款也成为了调酒师们的日常 工 作。Kevin 的 创 作 灵 感 往 往 来 自 于 生 活。 空 闲 时， 他 会 四 处 旅 行、 寻 找 各 地 的 美 食、 见 识 各 种 风 土 人 文， 从 中 寻找启发。丰富多元的灵感来源让 Kevin 创作力旺盛，也 让澳门瑞吉酒吧的酒单充满了令人惊喜的选择 ： 「Modern
Art」 受 纽 约 曼 哈 顿 极 具 创 意 的 现 代 艺 术 博 物 馆 启 发， 以 Speyside 杜 松 子 酒 为 基 酒， 加 入 Fino 雪 莉 酒、 接 骨 木 花 利口酒、番石榴酸甜剂和青柠汁，口感平衡而充满活力 ； 「Garnet Sour」 则 是 经 典 的「New York Sour」 的 变 奏， 把 原配方的甜美波本威士忌，换成辛辣的黑麦威士忌 ；再把果 香丰富的红葡萄酒，换成来自葡萄牙的波特酒，酒体变得更 坚实、饱满，这种改编的灵感是来自上世纪四十年代末从葡 萄牙涌入美国的移民潮 ； 「Dia de
Fiesta」的灵感则来自拉丁裔美国人 的多元文化色彩，这杯酒充满了墨
“The drink list at The St. Regis Bar Macao is full of surprises.
澳门瑞吉酒吧的酒单充 满了令人惊喜的选择。”
110 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
西哥元素，基酒是梅斯卡尔酒，还 加入了火龙果糖浆和墨西哥辣椒、 橄榄汁调味，最后再添加玫瑰葡萄 酒，甜美中透着辛辣感，橄榄汁和 葡萄酒则增加了复杂度。 瑞吉酒吧的精彩之处绝对不止 于它的酒单。酒吧的设计由香港著 名建筑师梁志天（Steve Leung）及 其设计团队策划完成，为了与酒店 的历史渊源呼应，他们以无所不在 的设计细节致敬美国纽约的怀旧风
华，营造出低调奢华的氛围，捕捉属于古典的永恒魅力。 每家瑞吉酒吧都有一幅专属的壁画，而澳门瑞吉酒吧的 壁画展现了昔日澳门港口生气勃勃的景象 ：丹顶鹤飞过金黄 色的天空，拂过盛开的荷花。鹤在中国传统中象征长寿，荷 花则代表澳门这片莲花宝地，整个构图寓意上天一直守护澳 门。壁画两旁茂盛的植物环抱着鲜艳的葡国花公鸡（Barcelos
Rooster），与浑天仪、星盘及各种航海仪器相互呼应，描绘 出澳门昔日的风貌。壁画与新古典主义图案雕刻的大理石吧 枱的浓绿色调形成鲜明对比 ；此外，一台半尾钢琴是复古舞 台区的焦点，让客人可以在爵士乐即兴演奏下享用鸡尾酒。 除了顶级的酒水、优雅低调的环境，还需要重点提及的 是服务。瑞吉酒店本身就是以管家式服务闻名全球的奢华酒 店，而瑞吉酒吧同样延续了这种服务。这里的员工皆训练有 素，随时准备满足顾客的需求。调酒师会根据客人的需求来 推荐酒款，甚至可以直接调一杯不在酒单上的个人订制酒款。
Kevin 说， 未 来 他 们 会 进 一 步 完 善 酒 单 和 服 务 水 平， 并且举办更多客座调酒活动，与世界各地的顶级调酒师交 流调酒技术和文化， 为顾客提供更好的体验。他的最终目标， 是建立一家世界顶尖的酒吧，并登上「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」 榜单。
LO S T S TA R S A drink that looks as good as it tastes, Lost Stars contains cream vodka, violet liqueur, milk, lemon juice, bitters, and gold dust. Light vapor condenses on the rim of the glass as gold dust floats on the violet surface like stars in the misty sky. The drink captivates with a faint floral aroma, the lemon’s acidity adds subtle layers of taste, and milk gives it unusually full body. 这杯鸡尾酒以奶油伏特加、紫罗兰利口酒为基酒，还加入了牛奶、柠檬汁、苦精和金 粉，光卖相就已经十分吸引。金粉漂浮在淡紫色酒体中，杯体上沿凝结了一层淡淡水汽， 恰似迷雾中的繁星。鸡尾酒带有淡淡的紫罗兰花香，柠檬的微酸增添了层次感，牛奶 则带来浓稠的口感和奶香，让酒体更显厚重，最后还有一点点苦味，冲抵了腻感。
Kenzo Lee
和阳四时
sipping the seasons Twenty Fifth Hour introduces a new cocktail tasting menu that takes guests on a Japanese-inspired journey through the year.
Twenty Fifth Hour 位于市中心的中环士丹利街，是一个氛围 IN THE HEART OF THE CIT Y on Central’s Stanley Street, Twenty Fifth Hour 轻松惬意的私密空间，也是放松身心、享受当下的好去处。 is an intimate space with a relaxing ambience, a place to unwind, live in the 在此，宾客能品尝由经理兼首席调酒师 Kenzo Lee 率领团队 moment, and savor a variety of original cocktails curated by Manager and Head 精心调制的各种原创鸡尾酒。 Mixologist Kenzo Lee and his team. 从踏入酒吧的那刻起，时间仿佛就静止了。 Time seems to stand still from the moment guests step in to BY 酒吧的名字源自于「每天增加一小时悠闲时光」 this speakeasy-inspired bar, named for the concept of adding a leiNICOLE SLATER 的概念，时间主题细致地呈现在沙漏设计的灯光、 surely extra hour to the day. The temporal theme continues with • 墙壁装饰，以及在 Twenty Fifth Hour 的最新酒单 hourglass-motif lighting and wall decor and in Twenty Fifth Hour’s PHOTOGRAPHY BY 中得以延续，这份酒单捕捉了日本一年四季的自 latest menu that captures the essence of the annual cycles of nature DAVID HARTUNG 然界精髓。 in Japan. 团队运用想像力将樱花、抹茶、红薯和柚子 Starting with spring, the cocktail tasting menu features imagi胡椒等传统日本风味，与独一无二的鸡尾酒进行组合，展现 native combinations of traditional Japanese flavors like sakura, matcha, sweet 日本的春天韵味。除了带来味蕾的挑战，同时也引领宾客展 potato, and yuzu pepper in one-of-a-kind cocktails that challenge the taste buds 「调制独特的口味是一门艺术， 开一趟四季之旅。Kenzo 说 ： while leading them on a season-by-season tour. “Curating such unique flavors is 不光是调制鸡尾酒那么简单而已。 」 an art,” says Lee. ”It’s much more than just making cocktails.”
112 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
PRESENTED BY TWENTY FIFTH HOUR
Autumn
Three of the six drinks on the menu feature food pairings for snacking on. The sweetness of the summer cocktail, made with pisco, bitter melon, plum, and grape, is balanced with buttery abalone. The savory-flavored autumn cocktail combining the flavors of whiskey, sweet potato, and smoke is matched with the umami of roasted eel. Lee’s Sweet Memories cocktail of rum, matcha, and red bean is delightfully paired with a creamy matcha ice cream. “Since we’re bartenders, not chefs, each pairing had to be simple to create and assemble alongside the cocktails in a fast and orderly fashion,” notes Lee. Any visit to Twenty Fifth Hour would be incomplete without a taste of the bar’s famous double-boiled soup with Cognac. “This is prepared in-house every day,” says Lee. “It’s something that’s traditionally served in many homes across Asia, and by offering it to our guests, we hope to make them feel at home every time they visit.”
↑↑
↑
Sweet Memories
Summer
酒单上的六款鸡尾酒中，其中三款有搭配小食。Summer 鸡尾酒 由皮斯科酒、苦瓜、李子和葡萄调制而成，当中的甜味与如奶油般柔 滑的鲍鱼相得益彰。带有咸香的 Autumn 鸡尾酒结合威士忌、红薯和 烟熏香气，与鲜美的烤鳗是完美绝配。Kenzo 的 Sweet Memories 是 由兰姆酒、抹茶和红豆调制而成，搭配抹茶冰淇淋，令人身心舒畅。 「我们是调酒师而不是厨师，搭配小食也避免需要繁复 Kenzo 指出 ： 制作的，以求快速、有序地与鸡尾酒相配。 」 来到 Twenty Fifth Hour，绝不能错过的是酒吧著名的「干邑老 「我们每天亲自烹调这道『老火汤』 。煮『老火汤』 火汤」 。Kenzo 说 ： 是许多亚洲家庭的传统，我们希望透过它，让宾客有一种宾至如归的 温暖感受。 」 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 113
「美」酒复兴
renaissance of american spirits With equal parts passion, curiosity, and innovation, American distilleries are pushing the boundaries of traditional whiskey flavors and styles.
American whiskey, with time-honored traditions that date back to the arrival of the colonists in the New World, has historically encompassed a broad range of styles, from the distinct zing of the first ryes to the sweet caramel and vanilla notes of classic bourbons. Today, thanks to a booming cocktail culture and increasingly informed and open-minded enthusiasts, American whiskey producers have been inspired to explore unusual flavor profiles and expand into entirely new categories, like the soon-to-be defined and regulated American single malt.
§ 美国威士忌的历史相当悠久，最早可追溯至殖民者抵达新大陆的时期，这数百年
草风味。到了现代，鸡尾酒文化发展蓬勃，品酒爱好者的水准也日益提升，美国威士忌酒商深受启 发，开始探索前所未有的味觉体验，并逐渐发展出新的威士忌种类，像是即将被酒界正式定义和规 范的美国单一麦芽威士忌。
114 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
COURTESY OF USDA (3)
来发展出一系列独特的风格，例如经典黑麦威士忌的强烈风味，以及波本威士忌经典的甜焦糖和香
P R E S EFNETAETDU R B EY T H E U . S . A G R I C U LT U R A L T R A D E O F F I C E , HONG KONG & MAC AU
St. George Spirits head distiller, Dave Smith St. George首席酿酒师 Dave Smith
PRESERVING HERITAGE, EMBRACING MODERNIZATION 延续传统，拥抱创新
调酒师出身的 James E. Pepper 威士忌主理人 Amir Peay 说： 「James E. Pepper 虽然说不上是全美历史最悠久的威士忌品 牌，但可说是肯塔基最古老的威士忌品牌。 」2007 年，Amir 在一张 1910 年的著名拳击比赛老照片中，看到了 James E.
Pepper 的赞助横幅。他很快就意识到，James E. Pepper 威 士忌最早可追溯至美国革命时期，且曾受到多位美国总统的 青睐，甚至在禁酒时期幸免于难，直到 1960 年代随产业式
Amir 经深入研究，发现了造酒配方、谷物配方和生产 “THIS IS ARGUABLY the oldest whiskey brand in Kentucky, 方法等重要文件，以及数百年前的威士忌原瓶，包括禁酒 if not in America,” says Amir Peay, former bartender turned 时期前、中、后的酒款。他甚至重建历史悠久的 James E. owner/operator of James E. Pepper Distilling Company. In 2007, Peay spotted the name on a sponsorship banner in an Pepper 酿酒厂，于 2017 年末重新启动，并使用工厂关闭前 沿用的配方来制作威士忌。 old photo of a famous 1910 boxing match. Intrigued, he soon 在 Amir 的努力下，一系列结合传统和创新的威士忌就 learned that Pepper whiskeys could be traced back to the 此诞生，以纪念 James E. Pepper 历史悠久的酿酒技术。此 Revolution, had been favored by numerous presidents, and 一系列包括纯度极高的裸麦威士忌，以及高裸麦比例的波本 had survived Prohibition before finally succumbing to declin威士忌。这两款威士忌在发布时，皆被认为表现出前所未见 ing industry-wide sales in the 1960s. 的独特风味。举例来说，制作过程中采用蒸馏至 50 酒精浓 Research uncovered documentation of recipes, mash 度且未经过滤的酿酒手法，造就这款威士忌浓郁而大胆的风 bills, and production methods as well as century-old bottles 味。此外，这款威士忌经常作为鸡尾酒基调，酒精的辛辣感 of original whiskey from before, during, and after Prohibition. 及裸麦的多层次风味，也难掩威士忌的杰出本色。 Peay even rebuilt the historic James E. Pepper distillery and fired it back up in late 2017 to begin producing whiskey with the exact same recipe used before it shut down. James E. Pepper stills, The results of his efforts are a collection of new whiskeys that honor the house styles modern day made throughout the long history of the Pepper brand, including a nearly pure rye and an 重建的 James E. Pepper extremely high-rye bourbon, both considered unique expressions at the time of their release. 酿酒厂 Distilled to 100 proof and unfiltered, the whiskeys are punchy and bold. Retaining the heat of the spirit and the complex character of the rye grain, they shine in cocktails.
116 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
COURTESY OF USDA (6)
微而逐渐没落。
P R E S E N T E D B Y T H E U . S . A G R I C U LT U R A L T R A D E O F F I C E , H O N G K O N G & M A C A U
Ella O. Pepper
Col. James E. Pepper
Pepper Distillery, circa 1894 1894年前后的Pepper酿酒厂
↑
← Jack Johnson drinking James E. Pepper, Sunday July 3, 1910, before the Championship of the World Battle
Waldorf Astoria 纽约华尔道夫酒店
在1910年7月3日的一场拳击比赛前，Jack Johnson正在享用 James E. Pepper威士忌 FORESTS BLUE | TK |
117
P R E S E N T E D B Y T H E U . S . A G R I C U LT U R A L T R A D E O F F I C E , H O N G K O N G & M A C A U
RESURREC TING A LONG-LOST LEGACY 传奇再现
THE FOUNDERS of Sagamore Spirit also found inspiration in restoring a once-vibrant whiskey tradition. Distilleries in Maryland were historically considered premier producers of rye, and the sweeter “Maryland ryes” were among the country’s most soughtafter whiskeys. But Prohibition, government corn subsidies, and shifting consumer preferences caused both supply and demand to dwindle and disappear. From the early 2000s, the rye category has been making a roaring comeback, and Sagamore has a mission to Sagamore 酒厂的创始人也同样深受传统启发，致力于让传 奇经典的活力再现。马里兰州的威士忌酒厂曾被公认为重要 put Maryland rye back on the map. Without any surviving 的黑麦威士忌生产地，而口味香甜的「马里兰黑麦威士忌」 recipes of the original whiskeys, it has relied on experimen曾是全美最受欢迎的威士忌之一。然而，在禁酒令、玉米补 tation to create a taste profile that serves as its modern-day 贴政策及消费者偏好转变的影响下，马里兰威士忌的供给与 interpretation of a Maryland rye. 需求逐渐下降，最终退出市场。 Sagamore cooks, ferments, and distills two different 直 到 2000 年 初 期， 黑 麦 威 士 忌 风 潮 卷 土 重 来， 而 mash bills, one high rye and one low rye with corn and malted barley, aging them separately for over four years in Sagamore 也背负起让马里兰黑麦威士忌东山再起的使命。 由于最初的威士忌配方早已失传，Sagamore 只好仰赖一次 new charred oak barrels and allowing the hot summers and 次试验建立起现代版的马里兰威士忌风味。 cold winters to draw out additional sweetness and flavors. Sagamore 在烹制、发酵和蒸馏的过程中，使用两种不 The signature Sagamore Spirit Rye Whiskey is blended 同的谷物配方，以玉米和麦芽为基础，调配出分成高、低比 例的黑麦基底，并分别在黑橡木新炙烧桶中陈酿超过四年， 在冬夏交替下酝酿出马里兰威士忌独特的甘甜风味。 经典的 Sagamore 黑麦威士忌带有烘烤香料和柑橘皮 交织而成的和谐香气，并伴随着黑糖和核桃风味的尾韵。而
Sagamore 于 2019 年推出的「全球最佳黑麦威士忌」则是 使用欧洲和美国的波特酒桶来陈酿，直至裸麦纯威士忌的酒 体散发出烘烤香料的细腻感，伴随甜李、樱桃的调性，最后 以焦糖调完美收尾。
118 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
COURTESY OF USDA (2)
to yield a pleasing balance of baking spices and citrus peel along with a brown sugar and walnut finish. And Sagamore’s 2019 World’s Best Rye Whiskey is made by finishing its straight rye in European and American port barrels for nuances of baking spices, notes of plum and cherry, and a dry finish with a touch of caramel.
EXPANDING HORIZONS 拓展视野
St. George Spirits master distiller and Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame member Lance Winters St. George蒸馏厂资深酿酒专家及《威士忌杂志》名人堂成员Lance Winters
TWENT Y-SEVEN YEARS AGO, Lance Winters famously showed up at St. George Spirits with a bottle of homemade whiskey as his résumé and a desire to learn the art of distillation. “The experience helped broaden my expectations for what distillation can do,” says Winters, now master distiller and creative force behind St. George. “You recognize the beautiful nuances that can be delivered in a new-make spirit, and you start to look for the beauty that is inherent in raw materials and then find ways to shepherd them through fermentation, distillation, and then barrel aging.” Rather than focusing only on how the product was influenced by the wood and the aging process, Winters learned to look more closely at the grain itself. He tested how much flavor yielded from various roast levels might end up coming through the distillation process. The Lot Series single malt showcases his bold approach of using five different roast levels of malted barley that are milled, mashed, and fermented together and then pot distilled once. “This approach was unheard of when we first started doing it in 1996,” Winters says. “But people started tasting the results and seeing what was possible. I like to think that we helped shift the needle all the way over.”
二十七年前，Lance Winters 带着一瓶自制威士忌 出现在 St. George 蒸馏厂，以证明他渴望学习酿 酒艺术的决心。现为 St. George 蒸馏厂资深酿酒 「当时的经历让我 专家及创意智囊的 Lance 说 ： 看见更多蒸馏技术的可能性。先是发现新酒细微 而美妙的细节，然后设法在谷物原料中发现美丽 的泉源，再透过发酵、蒸馏、陈酿重现最初的美 妙想像。 」 有别于一般人仅关注酒体如何受木材和陈酿 过程影响，Lance 学会从谷物本身出发。他测试 了如何在蒸馏过程中呈现出不同烘烤程度的谷物 所产生的风味。Lot 系列单一麦芽威士忌即展示 出这种大胆的造酒工艺，酿造过程中使用五种不 同烘烤程度的麦芽，并且一同研磨、糖化、发酵， 最后进行一次蒸馏。 「1996 年我们刚开始采用这种酿 Lance 说 ： 酒方法，对当时的人来说可谓前所未闻。不过， 随着越来越多人品尝过我们的威士忌，便认同了 威士忌新的可能性。我喜欢把这样的转变，视为 我们打破既有观念的最佳证明。 」
For more information, please visit www.distilledspirits.org FORESTS BLUE | TK |
119
120 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
PRESENTED BY THE MACALLAN
盈钻新生
TWO WORLDS MEET
COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN
The Macallan, legendary maker of Highland single malt Scotch whiskies, held a celebratory launch event at glamorous CHINA ROUGE in Galaxy Macau™.
ON SEPTEMBER 15, The Macallan, a legendary Highland single malt Scotch whiskies maker, held a celebratory launch event at the glamorous CHINA ROUGE in Galaxy Macau™. The occasion was the unveiling of The Macallan Litha, an incomparable single malt matured in 100 percent first-fill sherry-seasoned oak casks from Jerez De La Frontera, Spain. Crafted to express the essence of The Macallan’s extraordinary whisky-making process, Litha represents the coming together of two worlds – Scotland and Spain – and tells the story of two forces meeting for the first time to bring about a shift in the balance of nature. The Macallan Litha begins its journey in Jerez de la Frontera, where The Macallan’s exceptional sherry-seasoned oak casks are crafted to the Whisky Mastery Team’s exacting specifications. The casks continue to The Macallan Estate in Scotland, where they are filled with The Macallan fruity new-make spirit – and the meeting of two worlds begins. By slowly maturing in these special first-fill sherry-seasoned oak casks, The Macallan Litha develops its entirely natural color and an intense, complex, and smooth flavor profile. It is characterized by gentle scents of vanilla and butterscotch that unite with a spark of citrus over a bright canvas of tropical fruits, reminiscent of a summer’s day and the radiance of the sun’s
苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌传奇品牌麦卡伦于 9 月 15 日在「澳门银河 ™」 「红伶」举办新品发 布会，推出新品「麦卡伦盈钻」 。麦卡伦盈钻 单一麦芽威士忌采用来自西班牙赫雷兹地区的
100% 首注雪莉橡木桶陈年。 麦卡伦盈钻展现了品牌精湛的威士忌制 作工艺，巧妙演绎了苏格兰与西班牙的首度邂 逅，孕育出源于自然的平衡之境，展现两个不 同世界的碰撞与交融。 麦卡伦威士忌酿酒大师团队在麦卡伦盈 钻的诞生地 —— 西班牙赫雷兹地区，以严格的 标准制作麦卡伦雪莉橡木桶。这些品质卓越的 橡木桶随后被运至苏格兰麦卡伦酒厂，再注入 果香浓郁的新酒，来自两个不同世界的风味从 此相会交融。 在 100% 首注雪莉橡木桶中酿造陈年而 成的麦卡伦盈钻，酒液带有琥珀原石的剔透色 泽，而且风味浓郁、细腻且丝滑。它散发着香 草和牛奶糖的柔和香气， 且伴有一缕柑橘清香。 酒体的基调为鲜明迷人的热带水果风味，仿佛 在享受盛夏时节的明媚阳光。随着风味逐渐释 放，香草冰淇淋佐莓果糖浆的甜味在口腔中散 FORESTS BLUE | TK |
121
PRESENTED BY THE MACALLAN
“This whisky is an extraordinary single malt that captures our unwavering dedication to uncompromised excellence and the powerful synergy that occurs when two forces come together.
麦卡伦盈钻除了代表我们对卓越的追求，也象征了两股力量的 交鸣共振，最终成就了这款品质卓然的单一麦芽威士忌。” Kirsteen Campbell
122 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
发，后与温暖的木香、巧克力、咸味焦糖和 胡桃等香气巧妙平衡，最终在甜橡木气息中 缓缓收尾。 麦 卡 伦 首 席 酿 酒 大 师 Kirsteen 「麦卡伦盈钻单一麦芽威士 Campbell 表示 ： 忌将苏格兰与西班牙的文化与风味和谐交 糅，赋予麦卡伦盈钻卓越的品质、斐然的 工艺及丰富的个性。麦卡伦盈钻的英文名
Litha 在古凯尔特语中的意思是『夏至』，除 了代表我们对卓越的追求，也象征了两股力 量的交鸣共振，最终成就了这款品质卓然的 单一麦芽威士忌。 」 「在赫雷兹制作的手工橡木桶成就了麦 卡伦盈钻的天然琥珀色泽、独特香气和层 次风味，也是麦卡伦盈钻卓越品质的最佳证 明。 」 全新麦卡伦盈钻酒精浓度为 40%，盒 装上精美的插画是由屡获殊荣、旅居美国纽 约的中国插画家六厘（Sija Hong）绘制。 包裝设计采用鲜明的红蓝色调，借此诉 说两股力量交会的故事。右侧的蓝色图案代 表苏格兰，左侧的红色图案则代表西班牙， 而中间充满艺术气息的树木则象征了两个世 界的交会 —— 当新酒与 100% 首注雪莉橡木 桶邂逅， 「麦卡伦盈钻」就此诞生。 这次澳门新品发布会的会场设计受到包 装绘画的启发，呈现了分別代表西班牙和苏 格兰的红马与孔雀，以及鲑鱼、橡树、帆船 和海浪等元素。舞台上，象征澳门的莲花裝 置也建立起这场盛会与这座小城的连结。 活动的宴席菜单包括锦绣中华拼盘、15 年陈皮炖花胶、金华海中鲜，金陵蜜汁澳洲 和牛等菜式，搭配一系列精选麦卡伦威士忌。 与麦卡伦盈钻配搭的甜点桂花宁波汤圆、杞 子桂花糕、巧手合桃酥，和威士忌中的热带 水果、巧克力、甜橡木的多层次风味相辅相 成，为此次味觉飨宴划下完美句点。
COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN (3)
energy. As the flavor develops, smooth vanilla ice cream topped with berry compote dances on the palate, beautifully balanced with warming wood spice, chocolate, salted caramel and pecans, and a lingering hint of sweet oak. “Scotland and Spain are two worlds interwoven into the very fabric of this single malt whisky,” says Kirsteen Campbell, Master Whisky Maker at The Macallan. “Each of these two very distinctive places makes an invaluable contribution to the outstanding quality, renowned craftsmanship, and rich character of The Macallan Litha. This whisky, which derives its name from the summer solstice, known by the ancient Celts as Litha, is an extraordinary single malt that captures our unwavering dedication to uncompromised excellence and the powerful synergy that occurs when two forces come together. “The quality of The Macallan Litha is a testament to our exceptional sherry-seasoned oak casks, handcrafted in Jerez, which make the greatest contribution to the character, natural deep golden color, distinctive aromas, and full flavors at the heart of this single malt.” Bottled at 40 percent ABV, The Macallan Litha is encased in a vibrant presentation box featuring a beautiful illustration by award-winning New York-based Chinese illustrator Sija Hong. Showcasing two bold color palettes selected by the artist with a particular journey in mind, the illustration depicts Scotland on the right side in blue tones and Spain on the left in red ones. In the middle is an artfully designed tree representing the fusion of these two worlds through maturation in 100 percent first-fill sherry-seasoned oak casks – a pure moment of creation resulting in The Macallan Litha. The installation design at the Macau launch event, inspired by Sija Hong’s package art, featured elements of the two worlds, including a red horse from Spain and a peacock from Scotland, as well as salmon fish, an oak tree, a sailing ship, and ocean waves. On stage, a large lotus flower, a symbol of Macau, represented the special launch event in a special city. The lavish Chinese lunch menu offered an array of dishes, including Splendid Platter, Double-Boiled Fish Maw, Steamed Garoupa, and Braised Australian Wagyu Beef, paired with a stellar selection of The Macallan whiskies. The Macallan Litha’s complex flavors of tropical fruits, chocolate, and sweet oak brilliantly complemented a luscious triple dessert of Osmanthus Glutinous Rice Ball, Wolfberry and Osmanthus Jelly, and Sweet Walnut Pastry.
PRESENTED BY BLACK TOT RUM
创新演变
blending journeys With proud traditions and a reputation for sophisticated modern style, Black Tot Rum chooses Hong Kong for its first cocktail competition.
经典兰姆酒品牌 Black Tot 首席酿酒师 Oliver Chilton 分享说 ： 「我的工作内容包括收集世界各地的兰姆酒， blending them together for the various expressions of Black Tot,” 并尝试不同排列组合，探索 Black Tot 的可能性。为 says Head Blender Oliver Chilton. “Black Tot brings together dif了寻找风味上的平衡与深度，我们使用不同种类的兰 ferent styles of rum to find balance and depth. We want our rum 姆酒调制出 Black Tot 独有的风味。我们希望 Black to be one you can reach for to drink neat but that will be equally Tot 兰姆酒不只适合纯饮，也适合调酒。因此，我们 useful when making a cocktail. By blending different styles, we 创造了一款结合不同风味的兰姆酒，一入 have created a rum that takes you on a journey as you BY 口便能带你踏上多层次的味觉之旅。 」 drink it.” NICOLE SLATER Black Tot 兰姆酒深受拥有三百多年 Black Tot Rum takes its inspiration from more 历史的英国海军饮酒传统启发。考虑到军 than three centuries of British naval tradition. When, 事科技发展让船舰运作日益复杂，英国国会于 1970 prompted by concerns surrounding the increasingly complex tech年 7 月 31 日中止了每日为船员提供定量兰姆酒配给 nology in operation across the navy, the UK parliament voted out 的传统，也让这一天成为了史称「兰姆酒之死」的 the time-honored rum ration for sailors, funerals were held for “the day the rum died,” and July 31, 1970, became known as Black Tot Black Tot Day。 时 至 今 日， 这 个 高 级 的 兰 姆 酒 品 牌 精 选 圭 亚 Day. 那、巴贝多和牙买加的兰姆酒种，诠释出现代版的 Today, the premium rum brand features a range of multilay「品尝全新风味的经典 经典海军兰姆酒。 Oliver 说 ： ered rums from Guyana, Barbados, and Jamaica, offering a modern take on the old-style navy rum. “Through Black Tot,” says Chilton, Black Tot，让我们可以想像当年皇家海军兰姆酒的 味 道 和 混 合 方 式。 举 例 来 说，Finest Caribbean 兰 “we are reimagining the traditions of the Royal Navy and their 姆酒选用数百年前皇家海军不同时期提供的兰姆酒 blending. With our Finest Caribbean, we are using styles of rum 种类，并以符合现代味蕾的方式重新调制而成。此 that, over different periods of history, the Royal Navy would have 外， 我 们 也 透 过 Master Blender’s Reserve 系 列， pulled from for their daily tot, but blending with a more modern 保存数百年前使用的调配方法，除了用来制作 Last palate in mind. With Master Blender’s Reserve, we have looked Consignment 兰姆酒，也作为我们持续探索兰姆酒 at the perpetual blending system used in the creation of what
“MY ROLE INVOLVES sourcing rums from around the world and
became Last Consignment, while also taking inspiration from the ever-changing styles used in the blending vats.” The brand’s flagship Black Tot Finest Caribbean brings together the complex flavor profiles of Barbados, Guyana, and Jamaica for
混合方式的灵感来源。 」
Black Tot Finest Caribbean 兰姆酒将巴贝多、圭 亚那和牙买加的多重风味融合在一起，调和出这款兰 姆酒独有的热带、咖啡和巧克力风味。这款酒在热 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 125
PRESENTED BY BLACK TOT RUM
→ In third place was James Cheng of Hong Kong Golf and Tennis Academy with his refreshing passion fruit and mandarin cocktail. 香港高尔夫球及网球学院的James Cheng获得季军，他调制的百香果 和柑橘风味鸡尾酒清爽宜人。 ↓ First place and a bottle of Black Tot Last Consignment went to ARGO’s Evan Mak for his Bird of Caribbean. ARGO的Evan Mak以调酒Bird of Caribbean 拿下冠军，并获得了一瓶Black Tot Last Consignment作为奖品。
← Noel Sabiñano of ARGO won second place for a classic mix of pineapple, rum, and falernum liqueur. ARGO的Noel Sabiñano以 凤梨、朗姆酒和falernum 利口酒组成的经典味 道组合摘下亚军。
→ Black Tot Global Ambassador Mitch Wilson Black Tot國際品牌大使 Mitch Wilson
126 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
带地区陈年，让它在酒龄还年轻时便发展出丰 富的味道，既不需经过冷凝过滤，也不需加糖。 「我们希望平衡果香、蜂蜜，以及浓 Oliver 说 ： 烈的甘草和烟草风味，最后以香蕉和柑橘风味收 尾。 」 不 过，Black Tot 最 特 殊 的 产 品， 大 概 还 是 非 Black Tot Last Consignment 兰 姆 酒 莫 属。 「直到今天，这款兰姆酒仍是 1970 年 Oliver 说 ： 份皇家海军兰姆酒的唯一瓶装。这是一瓶你仍然 可以购买的液体历史。此外，我们也是全球第一 个在瓶身标签上完整列出成分和比例的兰姆酒品 牌。我们相信品质和透明度，是吸引消费者购买 的重要因素。 」 为了能够体现品牌对于传统和创新的同等 重视，Black Tot 选择香港作为第一场鸡尾酒比 赛的举办城市。Black Tot 自 2020 年以来由分销 商 Whiskies & More 在港澳地区贩售。Oliver 说： 「我们认为香港体现了 Black Tot 的冒险精神。我 们在今年四月的访察中，发现这里不乏高水平的 调酒师，真的不容错过。 」
AR SAI (3)
a rum with tropical, coffee, and chocolate notes. Aged entirely in the tropics for bolder flavors at a younger age, it is neither chill-filtered nor sweetened. Says Chilton, “We are looking to balance out fruity, honeyed notes and rich licorice and tobacco while maintaining a funkiness with flavors of banana and citrus in the finish.” Perhaps the company’s most unusual offering is Black Tot Last Consignment. “To this day,” notes Chilton, “it remains the only bottling of the actual British navy rum from 1970. It is a piece of liquid history that you can still buy. And with the rums we blend today, we were the first brand in the world to list all of our blend percentages and give full transparency on the label itself. We believe that quality and transparency are two of the main ways in which we can contribute to the growth of rum as a category.” It’s not surprising that, with its dual historical and contemporary perspectives, the company chose for the site of its first cocktail competition a like-minded city well acquainted with Black Tot, which has been distributed in Hong Kong and Macau by Whiskies & More since 2020. “We felt that Hong Kong embodied the explorative spirit of Black Tot,” says Chilton. “After the team’s visit back in April, we saw that there was such a high caliber of bartenders that we really couldn’t miss out.”
DAVID HARTUNG (1+PRECEDING PAGE)
The competition, hosted on July 24 at Sam Fancy in Lan Kwai Fong, invited bartenders and mixologists from across the city to curate a unique cocktail featuring Black Tot Finest Caribbean Rum. After submitting their entries online, participants were requested to take part in the live competition, where they mixed their cocktails for a panel of four judges. After the first round, with criteria of storytelling, taste, demonstration, and promotion, six finalists were selected for a second Market Challenge to test improvisation skills before a decision was announced on the winner of the grand prize of a bottle of Black Tot Last Consignment, one of only three hundred left in circulation. Finalists James Cheng, Chloe-Rose Natterer, Evan Mak, Noel Sabiñano, Ganesh Gurung, and Oscar Ip were each asked to select one or two ingredients from an elaborate fruit tray and use them in creating a new cocktail within a fifteen-minute time limit. Taking first place was Evan Mak for his Bird of Caribbean cocktail, featuring Black Tot Finest Caribbean, coffee, tonka liqueur, lime, pineapple, passion fruit, and a generous top-off of Champagne.
这场比赛于 7 月 24 日在香港中环兰桂坊的 Sam Fancy 酒吧举行，邀请香港的调酒师以 Black Tot Finest
Caribbean 兰姆酒为基底制作鸡尾酒。参赛者在线上提 交参赛作品，入选后会参加现场比赛，由四名评审点评。 第一轮评比中，评审根据叙事、风味、视觉呈现 和推介技巧四项标准，选出六名决赛选手进行第二轮的 市场挑战，以测试他们的即兴调酒技巧。最后的赢家将 获得 Black Tot Last Consignment 兰姆酒一瓶，这一款 限量版兰姆酒目前在市面上只剩下约三百瓶。 决 赛 选 手 包 括 香 港 高 尔 夫 和 网 球 学 院 的 James Cheng、Call Me Al 酒吧的 Chloe-Rose Natterer、香港 四 季 酒 店 ARGO 酒 吧 的 Evan Mak 和 Noel Sabiñano、 Quinary 酒 吧 的 Ganesh Gurung， 以 及 香 港 瑰 丽 酒 店 Darkside 酒吧的 Oscar Ip。每位选手都被要求从水果篮 中挑选一或两种水果，并在十五分钟内制作一杯特调鸡 尾酒。 本次大赛由 Evan Mak 以调酒作品 Bird of Caribbean 拿下冠军，他使用了 Black Tot Finest Caribbean 兰姆酒、 咖啡、豆蔻酒、青柠、凤梨、百香果及香槟，调制成这 杯迷人的冠军作。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 127
HOTEL DESIGN
中西融和 栖居之美
east-west hospitality
COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL , GUANGZHOU
Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou, an icon in the cosmopolitan city’s high-end hotel landscape, celebrates its first decade.
广州是一个历史悠久、兼容并蓄的城市。作为中 GUANGZHOU IS A CIT Y with a long history of openness. Its status as 国最具影响力的全球贸易港口之一，广州的历史 one of China’s most influential global trading ports dates at least to the 至少可追溯到大航海时代，而以整个区域来说， Age of Discovery, and regionally, it extends back to the dawn of the first 更可追溯至公元一千年之初。广州文华东方酒店 millennium AD. It is befitting, then, that Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou, 坐落于广州市中心，自 2013 年开业以来，酒店 a hotel that seamlessly combines the very best of Eastern and Western 完美融合东西方待客之道，在这个城市的旅游业 hospitality, has held sway over the court of international travel in the 界占有重要的一席之地。 region since 2013. 今年，酒店迎来开幕十周年。太古集团和 This year, it celebrates its tenth anniversary. The beginning took 怡和集团入主中国大陆之后，广州文 shape with the first forays of Taikoo and the Jardines into BY 华东方酒店也揭开帷幕。当时广州是 the Chinese mainland, when Guangzhou was the only port KATE NICHOLSON 唯一一个对外贸易开放的港口，因此， open to foreign trade. The hotel is, therefore, inextricably 酒店的传统与地理位置密不可分，完 linked through its legacy to its location, truly combining 美结合西方元素及东方传统。这种独特的文化风 Western heritage and Eastern traditions. Representing this distinct cul韵融合正是广州文华东方酒店与其他酒店不同的 tural mix is what sets Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou, apart from other 魅力所在。 hotels. 中西文化合壁令人着迷之处如实体现在酒 These dual influences are apparent in the hotel’s aesthetic. The 店的设计美学中。酒店的室内设计由世界著名的 building itself, designed by famed tonychi studios, is a twist on the 季裕棠设计师事务所 (tonychi studios) 负责。设 traditional Chinese courtyard concept, combining Western heritage and 计以创新手法诠释中国传统园林的概念，将西方 Eastern traditions and reconciling international expectations with local 传统与东方情调结合，和谐呈现国际水平与本地 culture. 文化。 The recently rejuvenated Mandarin Cake Shop in the lobby is another 大堂近期翻新装潢的全新文华饼店是另一 case in point. Hong Kong firm CCD drew on depictions of traditional 个例子。广州文华东方酒店总经理 Eric Blomeyer Lingnan gardens by nineteenth-century British printmaker Thomas Allom 指出，香港设计公司 CCD 在室内设计过程中以 for the interior design, crafting a sumptuous pâtisserie that builds on “tra十九世纪英国版画家 Thomas Allom 对传统岭南 ditional elements of the Orient with the modern identity of ‘new China,’” 园林的描绘为灵感，精心打造一家将东方传统元 says Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou, General Manager Eric Blomeyer. 素与「新中国」现代特色相结合的华丽饼店。 This sophisticated blend is the “why” behind the hotel’s continued 提倡呈现各种文化是文华东方酒店集团的 position as a top choice for superior accommodations. By leaning into 独到之处，广州文华东方酒店优雅地结合两种截 the group’s area of expertise – the championing of all varieties of cul然不同的风格与元素，让酒店成为高级住宿的首 tural expression – Mandarin Oriental’s Guangzhou edition has remained 选，一直深受品味出众的国内外旅客青睐。Eric a favorite among discerning domestic and international travelers. “By 指出 ： 「在潮流多变的世代，文华东方酒店始终 staying true to itself and its passion for the arts in rapidly changing 坚持自己的风格和对艺术的热情，持续为宾客提 times,” says Blomeyer, “the hotel continues to offer guests endless 供无微不至的愉悦享受。 」 opportunities for delight.”
The Mandarin Cake Shop 文华饼店 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 129
高度华美
stratospheric luxury From its towering vantage above the city, Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen, offers spectacular views, indulgent accommodations, and sumptuous dining.
T H E S PA C I O U S LY E L EG A N T G U E S T R O O M S and suites of Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen, on the top floors of a seventy-ninestory skyscraper in the thriving Futian business district, look out over verdant parks, a dramatic skyline, busy Shenzhen Bay, and the distant mountains of Hong Kong. Deluxe View Rooms, Skyline View Rooms, Premier View Rooms, and Club Skyline View Rooms feature stylish, contemporary décor and an array of luxurious amenities, including floor-to-ceiling windows, marble bathrooms, walk-in wardrobes, baths and rainforest showers, walk-in showers, and 55-inch HDR TVs.
130 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
深圳文华东方酒店位于福田商务区内七十九层高 的深业上城高层，酒店坐拥美景，访客可俯瞰壮 观的天际线、郁葱的公园、繁华的深圳湾及远处 的香港群山。 豪华客房、全景客房、尊赏客房及行政客房 位于较高楼层，均拥有全景落地玻璃窗，一览天 际线景观，每间房皆采用前卫现代的装潢设计， 且设备奢华，包括云石浴室、步入式衣柜、雨林 花洒淋浴间、步入式淋浴间，以及 55 吋 HDR 电 视等。
HOTEL DESIGN
← The unique Oriental Suite features contemporary Chinese furniture designed by luxury fashion and lifestyle brand Shang Xia. 独特的东方套房配有当 代时尚与生活方式品牌 「SHANG XIA上下」 的精 选家具。
← The Cube, a stunning standalone structure, offers light-flooded event space; outdoor event space; the Grand, Mandarin, and Oriental Ballrooms; and The Gallery, on the 77th floor, is one of the highest banquet spaces in the city.
COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL (2), MARK HAMMONS
The Cube宴会空间灵活多变， 提供光线充足的理想活动空间； 包括文华厅、东方厅、大宴会厅 等, 位于酒店77层的「云境」 是城中最高的宴会空间之一， 可领略高空迷人城景。
→ The classic French-style cuisine of elegant OPUS 388 is among the array of choices offered by the hotel’s eight restaurants and bars. 酒店有八家餐厅和酒吧， 优雅别致的法式餐厅 「OPUS 388」是其中之一。
Expansive Deluxe View Suites also offer living rooms, and Skyline View Suites add spa-style bathrooms. Topping the hotel’s ultra-luxe accommodations are the unique Oriental Suite and Mandarin Suite with dining areas, and the Presidential Suite that also features a kitchen and bar. The Oriental Suite showcases contemporary Chinese aesthetics with a design that includes furniture from international luxury fashion and lifestyle brand Shang Xia. The hotel’s 68th-floor spa is a fifteen-hundred-square-meter urban retreat with a range of wellness options that focus on physical, emotional, and mental well-being in a serene setting. Facilities include a twenty-meter swimming pool, a fitness center, a yoga and Pilates room, a soothing quartz sand bed, and treatment rooms offering relaxing massage, intelligent movement, and rejuvenating skin care. Eight restaurants and bars offer an array of tempting choices. At The Bay by Chef Fei, the culinary team highlights contemporary interpretations of classic Cantonese dishes created by renowned Chef Fei, whose Jiang by Chef Fei in Guangzhou holds two Michelin stars.
宽敞的行政城际套房配有客厅，行政全景套 房更附设一流的水疗式浴室。酒店最顶级的套房 选择，就有东方套房和文华套房，房内附设独立 用餐区，奢华的总统套房拥有厨房和吧台。东方 套房全然展现了当代中式美学风格，套房中陈列 全球化时尚与生活方式品牌「SHANG XIA 上下」的 精选家具。 位于六十八楼的水疗中心占地超过 1500 平方 米，为置身大都市的旅客重找片刻宁静，透过一 系列健康护理，帮助促进旅客身心上的健康发展。 设施包括 20 米的游泳池、健身中心、瑜伽和普拉 提室、金砂热疗床及提供舒压按摩、智能运动和 美肤护理的护理室。 酒店内设有八家餐厅和酒吧，提供诱人的餐 饮选择。精致粤菜餐厅「东湾－由辉师傅主理」 ， 中餐厨师团队为客人献上名厨「黄景辉」以精妙 手法演绎的经典粤菜，辉师傅在广州的「江－由 辉师傅主理」餐厅曾荣获米其林两星殊荣。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 131
TRAVEL
奢华精粹
history and luxury At Great Scotland Yard Hotel, hidden stories come to life in a legendary London location.
Great Scotland Yard Hotel’s legendary green door 大苏格兰场酒店的著名绿色门面
132 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
位于西敏市中心的伦敦大苏格兰场酒店是一栋传 奇建筑，著名的绿色门面曾出现在狄更斯与柯南． 道尔的小说中，几十年来也曾在许多犯罪电影中 亮相。酒店大堂陈列许多以声名狼藉的恶人为主 题的当代艺术作品，例如十九世纪的杀人狂杰克 。大堂的一座陈列柜里还摆放 （Jack the Ripper） 着古董警哨和样貌骇人的警棍。 两个多世纪以来，这座建筑一直是伦敦警 察 厅 的 总 部， 如 今 被 改 造 成 凯 悦 臻 选 Unbound
Collection by Hyatt 系列的五星级酒店，这样具历 史感的酒店在伦敦其他地区几乎是无处可寻。它 既是一个美丽的下榻居所，也是一座活生生的博 物馆，将多层次的历史遗绪与优雅的现代奢华完 美结合。 酒店总共有 151 间客房与套房，处处洋溢独 特的英伦风情，许多都坐拥伦敦的迷人景色，更 有独立的双卧室联排别墅。酒店地毯的设计巧妙 参考警徽与制服的图样，衣柜则隐身在假书柜墙 后面。夏洛特套房以英国著名的小说侦探夏洛特． 福尔摩斯命名，客厅内配有大理石壁炉等精奢装 饰。 来到酒店的旗舰餐厅 Ekstedt at The Yard， 瑞典籍厨师 Niklas Ekstedt 在开放式厨房中用柴 火或余火烹饪「古老北欧」菜肴，宾客能近距离
COURTESTY GREAT SCOTLAND YARD HOTEL(4)
THE FAMOUS GREEN FRONT DOOR of the fabled building housing London’s Great Scotland Yard Hotel, in the heart of the City of Westminster, has featured in the works of Charles Dickens and Arthur Conan Doyle as well as in countless crime films through the decades. The hotel’s lobby displays contemporary artworks of figures of infamy like the notorious nineteenth-century slayer Jack the Ripper, and a cabinet holds antique police whistles and a terrifying-looking baton. The sense of history pervading a structure that had been headquarters of the London Metropolitan Police for more than two centuries and has now been transformed into a five-star part of The Unbound Collection from Hyatt is like that found in few other places in London. Both a beautiful place to stay and a living museum, it combines a layered legacy with elegant modern luxury. A uniquely British atmosphere defines the hotel’s 151 rooms and suites, many with stunning views over London, as well as its standalone two-bedroom townhouse. Carpet designs subtly reference police badges and uniforms, and wardrobes are hidden behind fake bookcase walls. The premium Sherlock Suite, named for Britain’s most famous fictional sleuth, offers sumptuous touches like a marble fireplace in the living room. At the hotel’s flagship restaurant, Ekstedt at The Yard, Swedish chef Niklas Ekstedt celebrates “old Nordic” cooking over wood fire or in the embers in an open kitchen that lets diners sit at the heart of
↑ Ekstedt at The Yard celebrates “old Nordic” cooking Ekstedt at The Yard带来「古老北欧」菜肴
the action. Using the best seasonal British ingredients and highlighting such Scandinavian techniques as pickling, fermenting, and curing, Ekstedt creates a lavish seven-course menu that surprises and delights at every turn. The hotel’s atmospheric 40 Elephants Bar, named for forty female thieves who once operated in the London neighborhood of Elephant and Castle, offers barista coffees, craft beers, and signature cocktails, some of which derive from Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks , a British cocktail recipe book published in 1869. Síbín bar, with one of London’s most extensive and intriguing whisky menus, features walls covered in mug shots and a serving staff wearing striped prison uniforms.
←
↓
Afternoon Tea with a twist at The Parlour
Síbín offers creative whisky cocktails
在The Parlour享用与 别不同的下午茶
Síbín酒吧有一系列具创 意的威士忌鸡尾酒
观看厨师的巧妙烹饪手法。Niklas 使用顶级的英 国时令食材，并运用腌泡、发酵、腌渍等传统北 欧烹饪技术，打制出丰盛的七道菜菜单，为宾客 带来惊奇和愉悦。 氛围绝佳的 40 Elephants 酒吧以曾经在伦敦 象堡区附近活跃的四十名女盗贼为名，提供精品 咖啡、手工啤酒与招牌鸡尾酒，其中几款酒是源 自 1869 年出版的英国鸡尾酒食谱《Cooling Cups
and Dainty Drinks》。Síbín 是 伦 敦 其 中 一 家 拥 有 最丰富有趣的威士忌酒单的酒吧，墙上挂着罪犯 的照片，服务员身穿条纹囚服，趣味盎然。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 133
Staying in Style 品味旅居
The World’s 50 Best Hotels announces its first-ever list.
「世界 50 最佳餐厅」自 2002 年推出以来深受全球 SINCE LAUNCHING IN 2002, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 关注，近期新推出的「世界 50 最佳酒店」也让高 has become a true global phenomenon, so the recent debut of The 级酒店爱好者们热切期盼，期待能探索更多有趣的 World’s 50 Best Hotels was hotly anticipated by those seeking the 奢华酒店体验。 planet’s most interesting and luxurious places to stay. 在首次颁奖典礼上，来自世界不同国家和地区 At the inaugural event held in the magnificent surroundings of 的酒店业者、记者和商务旅客等在历史悠久的伦敦 London’s historic Guildhall, global industry experts including hoteliers, 市政厅（Guildhall）齐聚一堂，都迫不及待准备揭 journalists, and business travelers came together to learn who would 晓奖落谁家。 take the coveted places on the list. 「世界 50 最佳酒店」可说是全球酒 Billing itself as the ultimate guide to hotels across BY 店的探索指南，由 580 位来自全球各地 the world, the awards followed voting by a global panel CHRIS DWYER 的业界专家组成评审团，将全球分为九 of 580 industry experts across nine distinct regions. 个区域进行投票。评审团会依照他们过去两年的酒 Voters were simply asked to list, in order of preference, the seven 店入住经历，票选出七间他们最喜欢的酒店。 best hotels they had stayed at during the past two years. 从知名大型酒店到隐密避世的精品酒店，评 From famed grand hostelries to intimate, off-the-beaten-track 审团根据个人喜好进行评选，而 2023 年首屆「世 boutique properties, the choice was theirs alone, and the top prize of 界最佳酒店」的殊荣，由位于意大利科莫湖区的 World’s Best Hotel for 2023 went to one with just twenty-four rooms, Passalacqua, in the stunning surroundings of Lake Como. Passalacqua 酒店夺得，这间精品酒店仅有 24 间客 房。 Asia and Hong Kong in particular fared very well, with spots 2 to 亚洲地区的表现出色，第二到五名都是位于亚 5 all in the region, namely, Rosewood Hong Kong, Four Seasons Hotel 洲的酒店，分别是香港瑰丽酒店、泰国曼谷湄南河 Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, The Upper House in Hong Kong, and 四季酒店、香港奕居和安缦东京，其中香港的表现 Aman Tokyo, respectively. Overall, Europe received the most nomina尤其突出。总体而言，欧洲获得最多提名，其次是 tions, followed by Asia, North America, Africa, Oceania, and South 亚洲、北美洲、非洲、大洋洲和南美洲。 America. 其他特别奖项包括 SevenRooms Icon Award， Other special awards included the SevenRooms Icon Award, 由马尔地夫度假村品牌「索尼娃」联合品牌联合创 which went to Sonu Shivdasani, cofounder and CEO of Soneva, and 始人兼执行长 Sonu Shivdasani 获奖 ；Nikka 最佳新 the Nikka Best New Hotel Award presented to Capella Bangkok at 酒店奖，由排名第 11 的曼谷嘉佩乐酒店获得。 number 11. 本次「世界 50 最佳酒店」活动主办方 William Commenting on the event was William Drew of William Reed 「酒店能 Reed Business Media 的 William Drew 说 ： Business Media, organizers of the awards: “To be named one of The ，是对整体酒店团队的 够入选『世界 50 最佳酒店』 World’s 50 Best Hotels is a recognition of the dedication, passion, 付出、热情和专业给予的肯定。 」 and skill of the teams behind those hotels.”
134 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (10)
第一届「世界50最佳酒店」隆重登场。
1 2 4
5 3
136 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
CELEBRATION
1
Passalacqua LAKE COMO 科 莫 湖 PASSALACQUA 酒 店
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
137
NAM E D B OT H Europe’s and The World’s Best Hotel for 2023, the twenty-four-room Passalacqua, a villa that once belonged to eighteenth-century composer Vincenzo Bellini, is on seven acres of stunning terraced gardens on the shores of northern Italy’s Lake Como. Examples of Italian Baroque craftsmanship, in portraits, mirrors, frescoes, and other antiques, dot the hotel’s three buildings. A casual open kitchen encourages guests to chat with the chef about dishes, made with local, seasonal ingredients, that can be served anywhere on the property. The gorgeous pool terrace is perfect for aperitivo hour, and the sauna and spa offer indulgent relaxation.
138 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
荣 获 2023 年 欧 洲 和 全 球 最 佳 酒 店 的
Passalacqua 酒店位于意大利北部科莫湖畔 一个七英亩的梯田花园，曾为 18 世纪作曲 家 Vincenzo Bellini 的私人别墅，整间酒店 仅有 24 间客房。不论是肖像画、镜子、壁 画及各式古董，巴洛克设计风格与工艺在 三栋主要建筑内随处可见。餐饮方面，酒 店内有一处开放式厨房，鼓励住客与厨师 交流，聊聊使用当地季节性食材制作的特 色料理，住客在酒店内任何地点也可以享 用这些美食。酒店美丽的泳池露台非常适 合享用餐前酒，也可以使用桑拿、水疗中 心等顶级设施让自己放纵一下，享受身心 的放松。
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (4 + PRECEDING PAGE)
CELEBRATION
f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 139
CELEBRATION
2 | Rosewood Hong Kong
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (2)
2
Rosewood Hong Kong HONG KONG | 香 港 瑰 丽 酒 店
THE ICONIC ENERGY of Victoria Harbour provides a breathtaking backdrop to The Best Hotel in Asia. Designer Tony Chi combines understated opulence with contemporary comfort in both guest rooms and public spaces, which are dotted with modern art masterpieces. With their famously photogenic and luxurious bathrooms, the 413 spacious rooms and suites define zen. Asaya Spa feels like a Southeast Asian island resort, and eleven restaurants offer refined takes on a variety of cuisines, including cha chaan teng
维多利亚港的活力四射为这间亚洲最佳酒店带来了多
at Holt’s Café, Italian at BluHouse, and Indian at Michelin-starred Chaat. DarkSide regularly makes the list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars.
厅 BluHouse，以及米其林星级印度餐厅 Chaat。爵士
姿多彩的风情。知名酒店设计大师季裕棠在客房和公 共空间中巧妙结合了低调奢华和现代舒适的风格，酒 店内四处可见著名的现代艺术作品。酒店的 413 间客 房和套房相当宽敞，附设的浴室以其独特和华丽著称， 带来別致的禅意。走进 Asaya 水疗中心，仿佛置身于 东南亚度假小岛。酒店附设的十一家餐厅及酒廊提供 各式异国料理，包括香港茶餐厅 Holt’s Café、意大利餐 酒吧 DarkSide 更是「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」的常客。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 141
CELEBRATION
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS
3
Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River BANGKOK | 曼 谷 湄 南 河 四 季 酒 店
THE THAI CAPITAL’S legendary River of Kings, Chao Phraya, is the setting for this 299-room urban oasis, a sumptuous escape from the frenetic city outside. A gorgeous series of pools is fringed with palms and gardens with a Mediterranean feel, but for many, the incredible wellness center, offering ancient Thai treatments and rituals, is the biggest draw. Channeling a mix of tropical modernism and opulence, famed designer Jean-Michel Gathy fine-tuned the aesthetics to create a resort feel. Among the F&B attractions are Yu Ting Yuan for Chinese, Riva Del Fiume for Italian, and a destination bar called BKK Social Club.
泰国首都曼谷的「国王之河」—— 湄南河，是这 座拥有 299 间客房的都市绿洲的所在地，更是一 个远离城市喧嚣的奢华避风港。这里有被棕榈树 和地中海风格花园环绕的美丽游泳池，但最吸引 人的莫过于提供古老泰式舒压疗程的水疗中心。 设计师 Jean-Michel Gathy 融合了富含热带风情 的现代主义和奢华风格，打造出极具美感却不失 轻松愉快的度假氛围。酒店附设餐厅包括中餐厅 御庭院、意大利餐厅 Riva Del Fiume，以及地方 风格酒吧 BKK 社交俱乐部。 FORESTS BLUE | TK |
143
CELEBRATION
4 The Upper House
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (2)
HONG KONG | 香 港 奕 居 ANOTHER TOWERING Hong Kong hotel with dazzling views, The Upper House is a 117-room design dream above the city’s swanky Pacific Place. The work of Hong Kong designer Andre Fu, it retains a timeless contemporary elegance, with four hundred artworks chosen to underline the natural sense of calm. Generously sized rooms and studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows to showcase the city’s high-rise glory. But one of the biggest takeaways is the impeccable, personal, and warm service from the young staff team. Elegant Mediterranean cuisine at Salisterra is the perfect match for its setting. 奕居位于太古广场，是另一间可以俯瞰香港绚丽市景的高级酒店， 酒店的 117 间客房仿佛浮在城市上空。奕居的室内设计由香港设计 师傅厚民操刀，保留了隽永的当代优雅风格，而酒店内四百件艺术 品则巧妙诠释了宁静的氛围感。宽敞的客房内设有落地窗，让这座 城市的高楼景色一览无遗。酒店的年轻员工团队无微不至的服务， 更是奕居的一大亮点。餐饮方面，地中海美食餐厅 Salisterra，也与 奕居的风格完美配合。 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 145
安缦东京是知名高级酒店品牌安缦首次进军都会地区
food made with local ingredients and sublime patisserie are some of the dining delights.
以当地食材精心制作美食，例如意大利菜和一系列精
146 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
的杰作，于 2014 年在大手町金融区的一座三十八层 摩天大楼盛大开幕。酒店大厅装潢使用优雅的白色和 纸与岩石池，而相较于精心营造的氛围，高空俯瞰的 壮丽市景更是令人心醉神迷。挑高的天花板让人感到 惊喜，静躺在石制浴缸内就能欣赏日夜不间断的绝美 景色。住客可以在安缦水疗以最贴近自然的方式享受 舒心的放松体验，不管是净化体验、传统汉方草本疗 法或天然温泉，各式服务应有尽有。酒店的多间餐厅 美糕点，是用餐的绝佳选择。
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (2)
T H E FAM E D AMAN brand’s first-ever urban property, Aman Tokyo opened in 2014 atop a thirty-eight-story skyscraper in Otemachi’s financial quarter. The lobby is decked with elegant white washi paper and rock pools, although nothing can distract from those epic city views. High ceilings surprise guests, as do stone bathtubs that also offer stellar vistas, day and night. Blissful, mindful relaxation comes naturally at Aman Spa, a minimalist retreat where everything from purification rituals to healing with traditional herbs to onsen -style hot spring baths is on offer. Italian
CELEBRATION
5
Aman Tokyo TOKYO | 安 缦 东 京
FL OR DE CAÑA E CO HOTEL AWA R D - S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
Singita Lodges Kruger National Park KRUGER NATIONAL PARK
WINNER of the Flor de Caña Eco Hotel Award 2023, Singita Lodges in South Africa exemplify a sustainable approach to luxury wilderness travel. The conservationfocused ethos at the Lebombo and Sweni lodges in Kruger National Park has achieved remarkable sustainability milestones: a 92 percent recycling rate, 70 percent diesel reduction through solar panels, and reduced meat consumption. The stunning lodges boast a fifteen-thousand-hectare private concession with diverse ecological zones, offering daily safaris and guided walks. Dining features herbs from an on-site garden and ethically sourced seafood, and Singita’s impact also extends to a community culinary school, local employment, and carbon offsetting projects.
2023 年 Flor de Caña 生态酒店奖得主 —— 辛吉塔小屋，是可持续奢华野旅的典范。南 非克鲁格国家公园的 Lebombo 和 Sweni 小屋追求环境可持续发展，达成许多这方面 的成就，像是达到 92% 的资源回收率、透过太阳能板减少 70% 柴油使用量，以及减 少肉类消耗量等。此外，渡假园区涵盖 1.5 万公顷的私人游乐区，每日皆有野外探险 和步行导览活动，让旅客可以探索当地多元的生态环境。可持续行动方面，酒店的餐 点使用自家栽种的香草及以道德方法捕捞的海鲜 ；酒店也积极回馈当地，包括与当地 烹饪学校合作、增加当地就业机会及投入碳抵销计画。
148 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (2)
南非辛吉塔酒店
CELEBRATION
f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 149
CELEBRATION
ART OF H O S P I TA L I T Y AWA R D WINNER of the Art of Hospitality Award for its exceptional
level of service, Gleneagles is in Scotland’s Southern Highlands, a forty-five-minute drive from Edinburgh. The hotel’s 232 bedrooms are among the most opulent in the UK, complete with all the amenities discerning travelers would expect from a toptier luxury country house hotel. Scotland’s only two-Michelinstar destination is Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, making for the ultimate gastronomic stay north of the border. Three championship golf courses include one that hosted the 2014 Ryder Cup. The River Tee provides exceptional salmon fishing, and off-road 4x4 driving, falconry, shooting, and horse-riding are also available.
Gleneagles AUCHTERARDER 苏格兰格伦伊格尔斯酒店
格伦伊格尔斯酒店由于其卓越的服务水平，荣获了本次的卓越 服务奖。这间酒店位于苏格兰南部高地，距离爱丁堡约 45 分钟 车程。酒店内共有 232 间奢华客房，软硬件皆卓越非凡，就连 最挑剔的旅客都赞不绝口。酒店内的 Andrew Fairlie 餐厅，是全 苏格兰唯一的米其林二星餐厅，让格伦伊格尔斯酒店成为英国 北疆的美食据点。这里更有三座锦标赛规模的高尔夫球场，其 中一座球场曾主办 2014 年莱德杯高尔夫球赛 ；酒店附近的蒂斯 河非常适合进行鲑钓、4x4 越野车驾驶、猎鹰、射击及骑马等户
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (3)
外活动。
f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 151
CELEBRATION
N I K K A B E S T N E W H O T E L AWA R D
Capella Bangkok BANGKOK | 曼 谷 嘉 佩 乐 酒 店
152 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
荣获 2023 年 Nikka 最佳新酒店奖的曼谷嘉佩乐酒店， 巧妙结合了传统文化和现代奢华感。这座精品酒店位 于湄南河水岸香榭区内，从酒店的花园可俯瞰有「国 王之河」之称的湄南河。建筑设计由 Andy Miller 和
Richard Scott Wilson 规划，确保所有客房都能面向水 域 ；设计公司 BAMO 在进行室内设计时，特别安排 了阳台，让住客可以饱览四周的景色。泰式餐厅 Phra
Nakhon 由大厨 Kannika 准备传统泰国街头美食 ；欧 式餐厅 Côte 由知名大厨 Mauro Colagreco 为旅客献 上不一样的异国飨宴。在曼谷嘉佩乐酒店，即使身处 繁忙的市中心，亦能享受到度假的闲适氛围。
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (3)
W I N N E R of the Nikka Best New Hotel Award 2023, Capella Bangkok seamlessly blends modern luxury with local heritage. Located within the Chao Phraya Estate, the boutique-style retreat boasts lush gardens overlooking the famed River of Kings. Clever architecture by Andy Miller and Richard Scott Wilson ensures that all rooms face the water, and BAMO-designed interiors feature balconies and terraces to maximize those views. Gastronomic delights include historical Thai cuisine at Phra Nakhon, which offers street-food tours with Chef Kannika, and Côte by culinary superstar Mauro Colagreco. It all makes for a true urban resort feel in the heart of the busy capital.
CELEBRATION
154 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
LOST EXPLORER BEST BEACH H O T E L AWA R D
Soneva Fushi
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS
MALDIVES | 马 尔 代 夫 索 尼 娃 芙 西 度 假 村
THIS INDIAN OCEAN JEWEL espouses the mantra of “no news, no shoes,” meaning that guests remove their footwear as they climb onboard a speedboat to the resort. Located on one of the most northerly atolls in the Maldives, seventy-two sublime villas hide away amid the ocean and foliage, with the only transport being the bicycles that guests are provided at check-in. A true trailblazer in luxury sustainability, Soneva Fushi boasts faultless eco-credentials that include industry-leading marine conservation and coral rehabilitation programs. Remarkable dining options include world-class omakase sushi, famed chocolate and cheese rooms, and regular pop-ups by lauded international chefs.
这颗印度洋上的明珠奉行「没有新闻，脱下鞋履」 的度假精神，要求旅客必须脱鞋才能登上开往度假 村的快艇。这座度假村位于马尔代夫最北端的环礁 上，72 座别墅分布于大海和丛林之中，而旅客在岛 上唯一的交通工具，是在入住时度假村提供的自行 车。作为可持续奢华体验的先驱，索尼娃芙西度假 村推行领先业界的海洋保护和珊瑚复育计划，对于 生态保护的贡献可说是无可挑剔。此外，度假村也 提供引人注目的餐饮选择，包括世界一流的板前寿 司飨宴、知名的巧克力和奶酪房，以及备受国际名 厨肯定的期间限定快闪餐厅。 FORESTS BLUE | TK |
155
CELEBRATION
BRUTON
英格兰纽特酒店
CARL O ALBERTO BEST BOUTIQUE HOTEL AWA R D 2 0 2 3
HONORED with the prestigious title of Carlo Alberto Best Boutique Hotel 2023, The Newt is an exquisitely transformed estate in southwest England that houses a hotel and country club. The estate encompasses the breathtaking honey-toned complexion of Hadspen House, where visitors can expect to discover cider cellars, kitchen gardens, and even wild swimming ponds. The masterminds are South African hotelier Koos Bekker and his wife, Karen Roos, former editor of Elle Decoration South Africa . Together, they combine origi-
荣获 2023 年 Carlo Alberto 最佳精品酒店奖的纽特酒
nal fireplaces and paneling with contemporary furniture, lighting, and artwork to create distinctive character in twenty-three rooms within the picture-perfect seventeenth-century establishment.
规划的主要负责人。他们将古老壁炉和墙板结合当代
156 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
店位于英格兰西南部，是一座由古典庄园改建而成的 酒店。除了酒店的主建筑外，这里还附设乡村俱乐 部。其中，Hadspen House 使用特殊的深橘色石灰岩 建造而成。此外，酒店内还有果酒酒窖、厨房花园， 甚至是野外游泳池，让住客尽情探索。知名南非酒店 经营者 Koos Bekker 及其妻子（前《Elle Decoration
South Africa》杂志编辑）Karen Roos，是酒店设计
家具、灯饰和艺术品等元素，为这座十七世纪古典庄 园内的 23 间客房带来新旧交会的独特风格。
COURTESY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST HOTELS (2)
The Newt
Liz Kao 高琹雯
TASTING NEWS
宝岛寻味
formosa’s finest Liz Kao, food writer and founder of highly regarded food media company Taster Taiwan, talks to TK about her latest project, Taste Fine Taiwan, which gives a glimpse into Taiwan’s rapidly evolving fine-dining scene. § 美食作家兼备受推崇的美食媒体「 Taster 美食加」创始人高琹雯与 TK 谈论她的最新项目
《Taste Fine Taiwan 品尝新台湾》，分享台湾快速发展的精致餐饮故事。
What is Taste Fine Taiwan? It’s Taiwan’s first fine-dining documentary series. We explore the development of Taiwan’s gourmet dining scene from three perspectives: successful chefs, aspiring young chefs, and passionate foodies. Taiwan’s culinary scene has evolved beyond the traditional night market fare to more sophisticated presentations. Taiwanese chefs, in the process of establishing their careers, are also rediscovering and redefining Taiwan’s food culture.
什么是《Taste Fine Taiwan 品尝新台湾》？ 这是台湾第一部精致餐饮纪录片。我们从三 个不同角度探讨台湾餐饮界的发展 ：站稳脚步的 主厨、正在奋斗的年轻厨师和追求美食的吃货。 台湾的餐饮发展已经远远不止传统的夜市美食， 而是发展成更精致的面向。台湾厨师在立业的过 程中，也在重新发现和定义台湾的饮食文化。
过去十年间，台湾的精致餐饮业发生了什么变
How has Taiwan’s fine dining scene evolved over the last decade?
化？
COURTESY OF TASTE FINE TAIWAN
台 湾 的 精 致 餐 饮 在 过 去 十 年 快 速 增 长。 I believe the fast-growth period for fine dining in Taiwan has 2014 年，陈岚舒荣获「亚洲最佳女主厨」之称， been the past decade. In 2014, Lanshu Chen won the title of Asia’s 其当时位于台中的乐沐法式餐厅在 Best Female Chef, and her restaurant, Le Moût in Taichung, BY 「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」中排名第 24 位。 was ranked twenty-fourth by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. In LUCY MORGAN 同年，主厨江振诚在新加坡的 André the same year, Chef André Chiang achieved sixth place on 餐厅在同一榜单上排名第六。他们两 the same list with his Restaurant André in Singapore. Chen 位可以说是把台湾精致餐饮推向国际舞台的先 and Chiang can be considered the pioneers of Taiwan’s fine-dining 驱。米其林于 2018 年开始对台北进行评级，此 scene’s integration with the international community. Michelin began 后扩展到台中、台南和高雄，今年更改名为《台 rating Taipei in 2018 and has since expanded to Taichung, Tainan, and ，这也使台湾的米其林星级 湾米其林指南 2023》 Kaohsiung, and this year it was renamed Michelin Taiwan, which has 餐厅数量大增。 led to an increase in starred restaurants in Taiwan.
What makes Taiwan’s fine dining scene unique? Our food culture is incredibly inclusive! In addition to the four major ethnic groups, Hokkien, Hakka, mainlanders, and indigenous peoples, we also have many new residents from Southeast Asia. The historical influence of Japanese rule and the postwar aid from the United States continue to shape our tastes, which are diverse and adept at assimilating foreign cultures into our unique features.
台湾的美食界为什么独一无二？ 我们的饮食文化的包容力大到令人难以置 信！除了闽南人、客家人、内地人、原住民四大 族群外，台湾还有很多来自东南亚的新移民。以 往日本统治的历史影响和美国的战后援助也为 「台湾味」带来影响。这些外国文化和风味非常 多样，而且融入到我们独特的美食文化之中。
f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 159
宁静蜕变
TRANQUILITY AND TRANSFORMATION Guests are physically and spiritually refreshed amid the natural beauty of Amanoi in Vietnam.
160 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
MARK HAMMONS
WELLNESS & RETREATS
FORESTS BLUE | TK |
161
Central Pavilion 主庭阁 → The Central Pavilion Lounge 主亭阁中的酒廊
162 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
WELLNESS & RETREATS
COURTESY AMANOI (2)
象征纯洁与重生，可爱迷人但又展现强韧生命力的 SYMBOL OF PURIT Y AND REBIRTH, the lovely and resilient 荷花，不仅是位于越南的安缦诺怡整个空间的装饰， lotus provides both decoration and inspiration at Amanoi in Vietnam. 更是酒店的灵感来源。一整片洁白的荷花漂浮在静 A carpet of white lotus flowers floats in a still pool surrounding a 止的水池表面，围绕着酒店中央的宁静瑜珈亭。这 peaceful yoga pavilion at the center of the resort. They recall the 些水生花朵展现在新环境中蓬勃生长的能力，同时 plant’s revitalizing capacity to flourish in new surroundings, mirroring 也反映出宾客在安缦诺怡的悠闻体验。 the experience of guests at Amanoi. 远 离 尘 嚣 的 安 缦 诺 怡 由 JeanThe resort’s off-grid design by Jean-Michel Gathy BY Michel Gathy 设计，鼓励宾客摆脱烦扰 encourages guests to detach from distractions and fully LUCY MORGAN 事物，与周遭环境互动、融为一体。优 engage with their surroundings. An elegant beach club, 雅的海滩俱乐部、悬崖边的泳池及安缦水疗中心， a cliffside pool, and the restful Aman Spa are among the property’s 都是安缦诺怡让宾客放松身心的设施。独自旅行的 focal points for relaxation. Solo travelers appreciate the opportu宾客能够在此反思、重设目标，或者重新补充那些 nity to reflect, to reset goals, or to recharge energies diminished by 因压力而消耗的能量。各年龄层的宾客和家庭成员 stress. Groups of friends and family members of all generations dis能在越南安缦诺怡中，深刻体会到大自然的宁静是 cover the tranquility of nature at Amanoi to be a perfect backdrop for 建立连结与加深联系的完美要素。 forging bonds and deepening connections.
WELLNESS & RETREATS
COURTESY AMANOI (3), MARK HAMMONS (POOL)
WELLNESS & RETREATS
Offering a digital detox like no other, this luxurious retreat embraces physical and mental comforts, with groups engaging over board games and individuals escaping into music. For every guest, the natural beauty of the landscape and the sense of energy and space from the lakes and mountains all around conspire to work their restorative magic. A selection of accommodations, from residences to private villas, offers guests at Amanoi a variety of experiences. Residences are stand-alone dwellings with large communal dining and living areas, situated for total privacy and carefully laid out for groups to spend time together. Infinity swimming pools with expansive decks create perfect gathering spaces. Private butlers attend to every need, including manning the kitchen, so that guests can dine together and bond over the resort’s standout cuisine. Executive Chef Pip Sandrey makes use of the very best local produce in Amanoi’s restaurants and for private dining. “There’s so much amazing stuff going on here, with lots of pocket industries. We get beautiful local produce like organic honeydew melons and amazing white and green asparagus. In London, I’d have to kill for it. Here, it’s everywhere.” Sandrey makes imaginative use of the abundance to craft both Western and Vietnamese cuisine, including classic dishes with a local touch.
这座奢华的度假村能让宾客在身心灵等各层面彻 底放松、摆脱数码世界的干扰与压力 ；团体宾客能透 过下棋、玩桌游来交流互动，个人则能遁入音乐的世 界。对每一位宾客来说，美丽的自然景观和周遭湖泊 山脉的能量与空间感，都在不知不觉之中施展潜移默 化的疗愈魔法。 安缦诺怡提供庭阁到别墅等各式住宿选择，让宾 客得以享有不同的居住体验。庭阁为独立的房屋，有 大型公共用餐与生活空间，位置非常隐密，格局设计 也相当体贴周到，能让团体宾客共度美好时光。无边 无际的游泳池和宽阔的露天平台创造出完美的聚会空 间。私人管家能满足所有需求，例如管理膳食，让宾 客一起用餐，利用酒店提供的顶级美食来促进情感连 结。 行政主厨 Pip Sandrey 在安缦诺怡的餐厅和私人 订制用餐的料理当中运用当地最优质的食材。 「这里有 很多无与伦比的食材，小型农业非常发达。我们能取 得品质绝佳的农产品，例如有机蜜瓜和完美无瑕的白 色与绿色芦笋。在伦敦，我必须寻寻觅觅才能找到这 种等级的食材。但在这里，根本就是唾手可得。 」Pip 以极具想像力的方式，运用丰富的自然资源来烹饪西 餐与越南菜，包括展现当地特色的经典菜肴。 精心设计打造的别墅则与自然环境融为一体，柔 f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 165
WELLNESS & RETREATS
Pip Sandrey
166 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
和的弧形屋顶与传统的有机建材灵感都是来自 越南传统建筑。酒店提供的别墅适合单身人士、 情侣或小团体宾客入住。除了能在私人泳池或 日光露台上共度悠闲时光，宾客也能尽情使用 能够沉静身心的私人区域。华丽的浴室具备浴 缸与宽敞的加大双人床，距离度假村的海滩与 休闲运动设施只有咫尺之遥，俨然是放松休息 的完美天堂。 安缦诺怡也提供精神上的滋养疗愈，宾 客有难得的机会探索神秘灵性的领域。宾客能 在占族精神领袖的伴随之下参加一场神圣的仪 式，期望招来健康、幸福及好运。 仪式在日落时分以神圣的祝福揭开序幕， 随后会移动到丛林中的一个秘密地点。在那 里的一间传统古宅中，只有舒缓放松的林音 相伴，同时还能享受由占族家庭准备的当地 佳肴盛宴。这场仪式的特色是会有以传统乐 器演奏的歌曲和音乐，宾客能借着这个绝佳 的机会认识并了解该地区古老的原民文化。 将宾客从日常生活转移到一个宁静美丽的 空间，加以疗愈、反思和改造蜕变，这就是安 缦诺怡的目标。如同一朵准备迎接人生新篇章 的盛放荷花，宾客在离开时，身心灵都仿佛重 获新生。
MARK HAMMONS (3)
The sympathetically designed villas blend into the natural surroundings, with Vietnamese architectural inspiration behind their gently curved roofs and traditional organic materials. Ideal for singles, couples, or very small groups, the villa design offers space to spend time together at the private pools or on the sundecks as well as private areas for retreat. Gorgeous bathrooms equipped with tubs and generous king-size beds create a perfect sanctuary conveniently close to the resort’s beach and wellness facilities. Spiritual nourishment is also available at Amanoi, including a unique chance for visitors to explore the mystic realm. In the company of a spiritual leader of the Cham people, whose ancestors trace back for centuries, guests can choose to participate in a sacred ritual designed to bring health, happiness, and good fortune. It begins at sunset with a sacred blessing, after which guests are taken to a secret spot in the middle of the jungle. There, in a traditional house and accompanied only by soothing sounds of the forest, they enjoy a feast of local dishes prepared by a Cham family. The ceremony, which features songs and music played on traditional instruments, is an unparalleled opportunity to connect with and learn about the region’s ancient indigenous culture. Transporting people from their everyday lives to a serene and beautiful space for healing, contemplation, and transformation is the goal of Amanoi. And, like a lotus preparing to start a new chapter of life, guests come away renewed in mind and body.
百年创新
new at ninety
顶级厨师服品牌 Bragard 的传奇故事最早可追溯至 1933 THE STORY OF BRAGARD began in 1933 when twenty-six年，当时 26 岁的 Henri Bragard 于法国东北部孚日地区 year-old Henri Bragard founded his company in the heart of 创立了自己的公司，并为邻居设计了一件艺术家罩衫，这 the Vosges department in northeastern France and created his 也是 Henri 的第一件作品。 first product, an artist’s smock for a neighbor. A major turning point came in 1976 when Gilles Bragard 1976 年对 Bragard 而言是一个重大的转折点。当年， in collaboration with renowned chef Paul Bocuse designed and Gilles Bragard 与名厨 Paul Bocuse 合作推出现今著名的 launched the now-famous Grand Chef jacket, an instant smash Grand Chef 厨师服，设计一发表便让 Bragard 一跃成为全 球领先的专业厨师服饰品牌。这款厨师服选用 hit that transformed Bragard into the world’s pre在洛林 Eloyes 平原编造的顶级优质 PIMA 棉制 BY mier professional culinary clothing firm. Made from 成，隽永雅致的风格及卓越的成衣技术，让它 ROBERT BURKLEY the finest Premium Pima cotton and woven in the 闻名将近五十年，并一直有着不同凡响的重要 Plaine d’Eloyes in Lorraine, this indispensable gar地位。 ment of the world’s top chefs has remained an icon of timeless 将近一世纪以来，Bragard 持续定义时尚领域，包括 elegance and technical excellence for nearly fifty years. 推出 Corporate Clothing 企业服装系列、Luxury Hotel 豪 Throughout the decades and into the twenty-first cen华酒店系列、Cooking Star 明星大厨系列、第一款厨师 tury, Bragard has introduced new trendsetting categories, 外 套、 受 运 动 服 饰 启 发 的 Chef On The Move 系 列、 结 including the Corporate Clothing and Luxury Hotel lines, the 合 丹 宁 元 素 的 Urban Chef 系 列、 展 现 现 代 休 闲 风 格 的 Cooking Star collection, the first culinary shirt-jacket, the sportswear-inspired Chef On The Move collection, the Urban Bistronomy 系列，以及向星级厨师 Anne-Sophie Pic 致敬 的 Lady Pic 制服。 Chef collection featuring denim, the relaxed and contemporary
168 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
COURTESY OF CHEF WORKS (2)
Bragard, French maker of fine-quality chefs’ wear, celebrates nearly a century of innovation.
PRESENTED BY BRAGARD
此外，Bragard 也曾和米其林三星主厨 Alain Ducasse 联手推出 Alain Ducasse by Bragard 系列； High-Fashion Gastronomy 系列主打展现个人风格 的定制厨师服 ；Bragard 旗下的 Studio B 品牌则 受成衣时尚启发，客群锁定勇于打破传统的专业 人士。 时至今日，Bragard 仍不断推陈出新，打造 新系列，品牌亦因巧妙诠释法国精神而享誉全球。 其中，为了满足客户的不同需求，位于 Epinal 工 作室的专业团队持续创作具现代感的时装设计。 此外，Bragard 对于生产线也严格把关，主要选用 当地原料，并使用具有法国 Terre Textile 认证的 衣服面料。为了追求品牌永续发展，Bragard 的
Green Label 环保系列特别使用自然或回收纤维制 成，以減低生产过程对环境造成的破坏。
Bistronomy collection, and the Lady Pic jacket, honoring star chef Anne-Sophie Pic. The Alain Ducasse by Bragard collection was created in collaboration with the triple-starred chef, and the Bragard HighFashion Gastronomy line offers personalized and customized jackets. The company’s Studio B brand, inspired by ready-towear fashion trends, caters to daring professionals looking to break the norms. Today, Bragard continues to create new collections recognized around the world as the expression of French savoirfaire. At the company’s studios in Epinal, expert teams develop modern and stylish products designed to meet clients’ specific needs. With its control of manufacturing and production chains, Bragard sources raw materials primarily from local distribution channels, and a large part of the total production uses fabric bearing the France Terre Textile label. In a move toward sustainability, Bragard’s eco-friendly Green Label collection is crafted with natural or recycled fibers that respect the environment. f o r e s t s b l u e | T K | 169
SUBSCRIBE $720 for 6 issues Tasting Kitchen (TK) is a celebration of inspiring gourmet adventures, eloquent artistic expressions, and engaging cultural encounters. Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com
contact information name
address
postal code
country Kindly return the
company name
title
completed form to: Email subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com
phone
fax
Mail Tasting Kitchen Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial
Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong Tel +852 2116 1030
170 | T K | F O R E S T S B L U E
D I G I TA L | 数 字 媒 体 | S O C I A L | 社 交 媒 体 | P R I N T | 印 刷 媒 体 | C R E AT I V E | 创 意 设 计 | E V E N T S | 跨 界 活 动
Asia’s leading epicurean lifestyle media group 亚太高端生活方式媒体集团 tasting-kitchen.com
S H A N G H A I
上 海
B E I J I N G
北 京
G U A N G Z H O U
广 州
S H E N Z H E N
深 圳
C H E N G D U
成 都
H O N G K O N G
香 港
M A C A U
澳 门
T A I P E I
台 北
RESTAURANT LISTINGS Flower Drum 锋膳 5 Cantonese
2B Linway Court, 69-71 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔石水渠街69-71号 连威阁2B Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-23:30 q +852 2267 0288
Kashu 花秀 5 Japanese
Aomori Shinmachi, Aomori City 1-10-4, Japan 18:00-22:00 q +81 17 718 7399
Kiccho 吉兆 5 Japanese
2-8-1 Honcho, Aomori-shi, Aomori, Japan 17:00-22:00 q +81 17 776 2850
Man Ho Chinese Restaurant 万豪金殿 5 Chinese
3/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 香港金钟道88号太古广场香港 JW万豪酒店三楼 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-15:00; Sat-Sun: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 q +852 2810 8366
Niras 5 Thai
Omanzoku 大间んぞく 5 Japanese
Omadaira 17-377, Oma, Oma-machi, Shimokita-gun, Aomori-ken, Japan 8:00-18:00 q +81 17 537 5633
Palace Garden 御花园 5 Chinese
Shop 306, Level 3, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, Rua do Trio, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹射击路澳门上葡京三 楼306号 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:00 Closed on Tuesdays q +853 8881 1380
172 | T K | f o r e s t s b l u e
A Smart casual
Children aged 6 or below are welcome to dine in private dining rooms
St. Regis Bar 澳门瑞吉酒吧 5 Bar & Lounge
2/F, The St. Regis Macao, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, s/n, Cotai, Macao 澳门路氹连贯公路澳门伦敦人 澳门瑞吉酒店二楼 12:00-01:00
Sushi Mori Tomoaki 5 Japanese
Shop A2, G/F, 5-7 Miu Tung Street, Shau Kei Wan, Hong Kong 香港筲箕湾庙东街5-7号 地下A2室
Sushi Mori – Zinc 5 Japanese
Shop A2, G/F, 5-7 Miu Tung Street, Shau Kei Wan, Hong Kong 香港筲箕湾庙东街5-7号 地下A2室 19:00-23:00 q +852 9867 5271
q +853 8113 1300
The Legacy House 彤福轩
A Smart casual
5 Cantonese
5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道 18号Victoria Dockside香港瑰丽 酒店五楼 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:00-22:00 q +852 3891 8732
Twenty Fifth Hour 5 Bar
13/F, Luk Yu Building, 24-26 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环士丹利街24-26号陆羽 大厦十三楼 Mon-Thur: 18:00-01:00 Fri-Sat: 18:00-02:00 q +852 5546 8540
DAVID HARTUNG
Shop 704, 7/F, K11 MUSEA, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀梳士巴利道18号 Victoria Dockside K11 MUSEA 七楼704号 Lunch: Sat, Sun & public holidays: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 q +852 3905 3022
Tailored Luxury Brand VIP Experiences Team Building Events and C-Suite Meetings Versatile Venue for Film and Media Shoots Private Dinners with Live Music and Bartenders Masterclasses and Workshops
www.tasting-kitchen.com/oceantable +852 9537 0688 oceantable@tasting-kitchen.com
Cristal 2015
From a timeless estate To an iconic cuvée
Exclusive Distributor of Champagne Louis Roederer in Hong Kong, Macau and mainland China
mktg@linksconcept.com
links_concept