TK53 Here Comes the Sun

TASTINGKITCHEN

HERE COMES THE SUN 53

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited • www.tasting-kitchen.com

SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室

HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室

MACAU: Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde, Rés-do-chão C, Macau • 澳门和隆街 2 号晶品艺楹地面 C 座

Mark Hammons

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER

创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Joey Cheang EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

总编辑 joey@tasting-kitchen.com

Mamie Chen

Marilyn Burkley

Robert Burkley

SENIOR EDITORS

资深编辑

Zita Wan

Vivian Pun ASSISTANT EDITORS

副编辑

Violien Ng

CHINESE EDITOR

中文编辑

Kerri Cheang

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT 编辑部助理

David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑

Kate Nicholson CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏

Lucy Morgan

Lucy Jenkins

Chris Dwyer

Miyako Kai

Joyce Kwok

Dorothy So

Nissa Cornish

Nicole Slater

Andrew Dembina

Ray Cai

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

特約作家

Alicia Beebe ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

Jessica Sin

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR 区域业务总监

Phoebe Yeung SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR 高级客戶总监

Jason Strickland SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR 高级客户总监

Fiona Lee HEAD OF NEW MEDIA 新媒体总监

Elaine Wong CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER 营销总监 elaine@tasting-kitchen.com

John Ng WINE & SPIRITS DIRECTOR 葡萄酒及烈酒总监

Yvette Robeck DIRECTOR, PARTNERSHIPS & STRATEGY

伙伴营销及战略总监

Jaakko Sorsa

OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com

Jonna Chen ACCOUNTS MANAGER 客户经理

Amber Qian MARCOM MANAGER, MAINLAND CHINA

市场传讯经理

Eddie Cheung EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA

中国内地编辑总监

Edison Xia EDITOR, MAINLAND CHINA

中国内地编辑

ON THE COVER

Photography by David Hartung

向日葵（或称太阳花）原产 于美洲，在十六世纪被传到 欧洲，它的种子和油迅速在 当地成为新兴的烹饪食材。

正值成长期的向日葵每天都 会朝着阳光移动，因此被推 崇为幸福和乐观的象征。翻 阅第100页，了解更多。

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Welcome to Tasting Kitchen (TK) Issue

TK53, Here Comes the Sun

During the pandemic, TK Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Mamie Chen traveled around California creating a vivid documentary feature about sunflowers:

“Standing in the middle of a sunflower field just after daybreak,” writes Mamie, “one can’t help but be cheered by the surrounding sight. adaily movement of the sun across the sky, but when they reach maturity, the faces remain locked eastward to greet the morning sun. Dazzling yellow and gold at full bloom, sunflowers radiate equal amounts of joy and energy.”

But I also began to understand that behind their cheerful yellow façade these blooms can contain a subtle rainbow of meanings – we came to see the sunflower as a larger symbol of strength in the face of adversity, providing encouragement to those anywhere undergoing hardship.

This issue highlights the remarkable resilience of a global F&B industry that after years of setback is finally able to gather and celebrate significant events like the Michelin and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, the Black Pearl Diamond campaign, and the launch of the Perrier-Jouët Society.

The sunflower on our cover, although weathered by the wind and with colors muted by time, stands noble and proud as an enduring source of inspiration.

Stay strong and shine bright.

亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。

欢迎展读 TK53 期「Here Comes the Sun（生机绽放）」。

疫情期间，TK 摄影总监 David Hartung 和资深编辑 Mamie Chen 走遍加州，拍摄一 份以向日葵为题的纪实专题。

Mamie 如此描述他们在花田中探索时

的感受：「天刚亮，站在向日葵花田中央，周 遭的盛景在熹微的晨光映照下，令人不禁赞 叹。大家都知道正值成长期的向日葵每天都 会随着太阳在空中的轨迹移动，但当向日葵 成熟时，花朵则会固定面向东方，以迎接早 晨的太阳。向日葵盛开时花瓣呈现耀眼的金 黄色，散发无比欢乐与能量。」

在向日葵欢快的黄色外衣底下，我却 开始发现这种花朵蕴含的意义如同彩虹一般 缤纷多样。

我们将向日葵视为逆境中顽强不屈的 强大象征，能为任何地区的艰难困苦者带来 鼓舞。

本期杂志强调全球餐饮业的非凡韧性， 在经历多年的磨难之后，大家终于能够重新 聚首，欢庆《米其林指南》发布、「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁奖典礼、黑珍珠钻级餐厅巡宴， 以及 Perrier-Jouët Society 成立等重大活动。

封面中的向日葵虽饱经风霜，色彩因 时间而黯淡褪去，但花朵依然高贵昂扬，持 续鼓舞着我们。

让我们保持坚强、绽放光芒。

请享受悦读时光。

Dan Gross, owner-operator of Rolling Acres Bread, a home-based bakery in Olney, Maryland, US, created this long-fermentation recipe. Made with flour, water, sourdough starter, sage-infused honey syrup, roasted sunflower seeds, and salt, each loaf is finished with whole sunflower seeds and a sprinkling of sea salt. “My motivation,” he says, “is to introduce people to a kind of bread they may not have experienced before.”

SUNFLOWER SOURDOUGH 向日葵酸种面包

Dan Gross 是美国马里兰州奥尔尼市的 Rolling Acres Bread 面包店的老板，他发明了一种经长时间发酵的面 包配方。这款面包由面粉、水、酸面种、鼠尾草蜂蜜糖浆、 烤葵花籽和盐制成，Dan 在每条面包都撒上葵花籽和少 量海盐。他说：「我希望带来一种大家从未尝试过的面包。」

DAVID HARTUNG

人鱼咏叹

a mermaid’s song

Pininfarina Architecture’s reimagining of The Italian Club Seafood Wine Bar plunges diners into the beguiling depths of the Mediterranean Sea from the heart of Hong Kong’s Soho Street.

ITALY’S MEDITERRANEAN coastline has long been viewed as a place of rejuvenation, its heady salt air, abundant seafood, and leisurely alfresco lifestyle providing an opportunity to slow down, reflect, and revitalize. When The Italian Club Seafood Wine Bar opened its doors once again in Hong Kong in late 2022, it sought to offer guests a dot of just such calm amid the hubbub of Soho Street. And dot though it is, with a compact floor plan accommodating just twenty-four diners each evening, the restaurant’s remarkable design and inventive menus starring ingredients from Mediterranean waters delightfully succeed in transporting guests to the serene Italian seaside.

To bring his Mediterranean seafood experience to Hong Kong diners, head chef and founder Stefano Balsamo engaged Pininfarina Architecture, the spatial design arm of iconic Italian car and industrial design company Pininfarina, which partnered with local firm ST Design in carrying out the concept. To overcome the challenges posed by the restaurant’s petite footprint, the team divided the space into four distinct settings that take diners from the sand to the seabed in mere strides. “We conceived a layering of the restaurant’s depth to coincide with the guests’ sequence of experiences,” says Pininfarina Senior Vice President of Architecture Giovanni de Niederhäusern.

海产丰饶的意大利地中海沿岸地区一直被视为文 艺复兴的发源地，迎面吹拂的海风夹杂着海洋的 味道。当地的生活步调悠闲，是个适合放缓生活 节奏，好好反思充电的地方。2022 年下半年，香

港 The Italian Club Seafood Wine Bar 重新开业， 在繁华喧嚣的中环苏豪区里保留一隅静谧。虽然 店内空间不大，每晚仅限招待 24 名宾客，但是 精致的设计美学、创新料理，再加上来自地中海 的新鲜海产，还是让许多人慕名而来， 感受意大利海岸的宁静风貌。

BY KATE NICHOLSON

A deceptively nebulous marine blue-green facade hints that something pelagic awaits the adventurous. The indescribably alluring frontage is crafted from color-treated copper sheet with internal lights sparkling through like tiny lighthouse beacons. “The see-through effect serves as an architectural statement,” says de Niederhäusern, “but it is also like a mermaid’s song – it is impossible to remain indifferent to it.” To reduce construction time and expense, Pininfarina Architecture favors parametric design and digital manufacturing by which algorithms shape a pattern’s features. The resulting motif, laser-cut in the copper wall, repeats throughout the restaurant.

A veritable sky of frothy wave tips awaits those who move through this ocean surface and into The Italian Club’s diminutive dining area. Pininfarina lined the ceiling with a billowy installation made from fire-resistant cotton and synthetic fabric pierced through its length by

主厨兼创办人 Stefano Balsamo 为了将自己在地中海享用海鲜的 美好体验带给香港饕客，找来知名意大利汽车 工业设计品牌 Pininfarina 旗下的空间设计公 司 Pininfarina Architecture，重新打造内部装 潢。该公司更与香港本地的 ST Design 设计公 司合作，联手将理念化为现实。为了克服餐厅 空间问题，设计团队将室内空间划分为四个 区域，让客人在数步之间从沙滩跨越到海底。 Pininfarina Architecture 的高级副总裁 Giovanni de Niederhäusern 表示：「我们运用分层的方式 处理餐厅的格局，与顾客进门后层层递进的空间 体验互相呼应。」

餐厅的正门是一片碧蓝翠绿交融的朦胧色 彩，预示入门后的一场深海历险。采用经特殊上 色处理的铜制门板透出内部光线，营造出小型远 洋灯塔的氛围。Giovanni 指出：「这种透视感是 一种建筑语言，同时又像是美人鱼充满魅惑的歌 声，令人很难不动心。」为了缩短工期和精简成本， 设计公司偏好使用参数化设计和数位制造技术， 由演算法决定图案样式。主题图案以雷射切割方 式在铜板上镂空，同时也在餐厅各处重复出现。 餐厅内的天花板设计，仿似波涛汹涌的海浪， 等待进门的宾客穿越海平面，步入小巧的用餐区。 设计公司采用以防火棉与合成纤维布制成的波浪

a waveform light source, creating the illusion of far more vertical space than the room in fact possesses. The tricky part, says de Niederhäusern, was attaching the textile feature to the ceiling, achieved by building a short false ceiling to accommodate a wave-shaped metal and rubber railing from which the fabric hangs.

“We developed the idea of the ceiling using an algorithm that starts from the concept of Peano’s curve repeatedly covering a square,” explains de Niederhäusern. “Then we added parameters to create discrete variations of the curve amplitudes and give it a three-dimensional drop.” The influence of the facade continues into the dining room through the armchairs, stools, table lamps, and other accessories, all featuring metal frames with a brushed-copper finish, echoing the copper elements common in Italian kitchens. The surging ergonomics of the largely bespoke furniture, produced locally and in Italy, mirror the ceiling above.

The restaurant’s marble tabletops have a surprising depth of story: “The Carrara marble quarries are the most visible feature when

型装置装饰天花板区域，再以波浪型的灯具贯穿 其中，产生垂直拉长的视觉效果。Giovanni 表示， 最困难的在于如何将布料固定到天花板。他们要 先制作较短的假天花，装上波浪形状的金属和橡 胶围栏，最后再将布料固定上去。

Giovanni 说明：「我们运用演算法构想出这 个天花板的设计，以填满正方形的皮亚诺曲线作 为设计概念，再加入不同参数，形成波浪曲线的 离散变数，再达致立体效果。」扶椅、椅凳、桌 灯等家具的设计，让深海的氛围从餐厅大门一路 延伸到用餐区，这些家具都有着铜制金属框架， 呼应意大利厨房中常见的各式铜制品。餐厅内的 餐椅摆设大部分都是在香港和意大利订制，符合 人体工学的曲线设计与天花板的波浪相互辉映。

桌子采用的大理石板，还有一段特殊的渊 源。Giovanni 说明：「当你前往意大利托斯卡纳

you approach the coast of the Tuscan Riviera by sea,” says de Niederhäusern, “and they’re the source of one of the most common materials you’ll encounter at historical sites on the Mediterranean coast.” And before the advent of stainless steel, Carrara marble was also the traditional material found in the shops of Italian fishmongers.

Those stages of the restaurant furthest from the street, the VIP lounge room and the restroom, give one the feeling of being no longer beside the sea but under it. Both are designed for intimacy and a sense of submersion, with green and blue hues that recall the quiet of the watery depths and offer tranquil respite. A Carrara marble countertop complements aqueous lighting, a hammered metal ceiling, and underwater-current-like copper film wall graphics. Once a guest has explored these depths, all that’s left, says de Niederhäusern, is to reverse the journey: “The passage back to the dining room from these more intimate rooms resembles a return to the surface where you’ll find light, fairer colors, and more space.”

“We conceived a layering of the restaurant’s depth to coincide with the guests’ sequence of experiences.

我们运用分层的方式处理餐厅

Giovanni de Niederhäusern

的里维埃拉海岸时，最明显的地标就是卡拉拉大理 石采石场，这也是地中海沿岸古迹遗址建筑最常见 的建材之一。」在不锈钢出现之前，卡拉拉大理石 是意大利鱼贩店面中常见的传统家具材料。

离街道最远的私人包厢和洗手间，让人有不 仅身处海岸边，更是置身于海洋之中的错觉。设 计团队为这些空间营造隐密性，就是希望给人沉 浸于深海的感觉，运用深海下平静的蓝绿海水色 调，让宾客享有静谧的片刻。餐厅中运用卡拉拉 大理石板打造的餐桌、波光粼粼的照明、以特殊 工法铸造而成的金属天花板，还有用铜箔打造出 海底洋流形状的墙壁图样，创造了一次具深度的 海洋之旅。Giovanni 指出：「从这些较为隐密的空 间回到用餐区，就像是从海洋深处上升到海平面 一样，因为光线比较充足，空间色调较浅，而且 更宽敞。」

的格局，与顾客进门后层层 递进的空间体验互相呼应。

连结瞬间

moments of connection

TK Founder & Publisher Mark Hammons talks to Vlad Doronin, chairman and CEO of luxury hospitality company Aman Resorts, about his approach to creating new and unexpected guest experiences. § TK创办

人兼出版人Mark Hammons与奢华酒店集团安缦的董事长兼执行长Vlad Doronin对谈，探讨他如何打

造全新、独树一格的宾客体验。

What is your definition of luxury?

I believe there is greater demand for experiences now than there ever has been, and this is what currently translates as true luxury. We have seen a huge travel boom across the collection of Aman properties as people are investing in travel experiences to make long-lasting memories and moments of connection that will stay with them for a long time.

In the future, luxury travel will deepen its focus on experiences and offering guests something unexpected or different to what they have had before. This is part of what’s shaping the pipeline for Aman – how can we bring our guests access to a destination that offers them something entirely unlike anywhere else?

您如何定义奢华？ 我相信目前消费者对体验的需求已远胜以 往，而这就是真正的「奢华」。安缦旗下的所有 酒店都热烈迎接蓬勃增长的旅游热潮，消费者 开始投资在旅游体验上，借此创造美好的回忆 与联结，这种体验会伴随他们很长一段时间。 未来，奢华旅游的重点是体验的深化，旨 在替宾客提供一些意想不到或与过往截然不同 的事物。这也是形塑安缦服务流程的主轴 如何让宾客在抵达目的地后，享有无可比拟的 独特体验？

This will all be done in the spirit of Aman, staying true to the brand’s ethos. Our locations will continue to have a deep connection to the places in which they are located, respecting and celebrating the local history, culture, and heritage of the destination. It’s why we’ve been granted permission to build fifteen destinations within or close to UNESCO sites –which is unheard of – and something we’re continuing to do. For example, one of our properties in AlUla is an incredible site that is in very close proximity to Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

How is the process of creating value for guests different in a “vertical” Aman property versus a “horizontal” Aman property?

Since purchasing the Aman brand in 2014, I have adopted the strategy of bringing the Aman experience to urban destinations, as well growing our portfolio of remote locations. I strongly believe there is great demand for the Aman experience within city locations, bringing Aman’s vast amenities, nature, and tranquility to the heart of an urban environment.

Aman Tokyo was our first city property, which launched to critical acclaim in 2014, winning multiple awards. Similarly, the much-anticipated Aman New York has recently opened to great success. These destinations don’t compromise the Aman experience in any way – instead, we have taken the horizontal Aman resort experience and applied it vertically.

At Aman New York, we have vast amenities and unparalleled service in a city setting. On the fourteenth floor, our main social spaces feature an expansive double-height Lobby Lounge, our restaurant concepts Arva and Nama, the Aman Club lounge, plus the seven-thousandsquare-foot wraparound Garden Terrace.

Aman New York also has a twenty-five-thousand-square-foot Aman Spa set over three floors, with a twenty-meter pool, ten treatment rooms,

这一切都在安缦的理念范畴内进行，并且 忠于品牌精神。安缦会继续与酒店所处的区域 建立更深刻的连结，并且尊重和宣扬当地历史、 文化与遗产。因此，我们获准在联合国教科文 组织遗址内或附近建立酒店据点，且目前已有 十五处。这是闻所未闻的创举，我们还会持续 拓展规模。比方说，我们位在欧拉（AlUla）的 酒店位址堪称无与伦比，因为这与沙特阿拉伯 第一座联合国教科文组织世界遗产 Hegra 仅咫 尺之遥。

为宾客创造价值的过程，在安缦「酒店」与 安缦「度假村」中有何不同？

自从在 2014 购买安缦品牌以来，我采取 的策略是将安缦体验带进都会区，同时持续扩 展我们在偏远地区的据点。我深信都会区的消 费者对安缦体验有相当大的需求，因此我们将 安缦大规模的设施、自然与宁静引入都会生活 中心。

安缦东京是我们第一座都会酒店，在 2014 年开张时获得好评、荣获许多奖项。同 样，众所瞩目的安缦纽约也在近期开业后蓬勃 成长。这些据点并没有以任何方式降低安缦的 体验水准。反之，我们会运用安缦度假体验概 念，并将其应用在安缦酒店的操作上。

在安缦纽约，我们在都会环境中提供应有 尽有的设施和无与伦比的服务。我们的主要社 交空间位于第十四层，当中有一个宽阔的双层 挑高大堂酒廊、概念餐厅 Arva 和 Nama、安

Aman Suite, Bedroom 安缦套房睡房

Premier Suite 尊贵套房

fitness center and Pilates studio, plus two standalone Spa Houses, which offer guests an entirely private spa experience, complete with outdoor terraces featuring hot and cold plunge pools.

We have also recently announced Aman Beverly Hills – the addition of this property stays true to the Aman spirit and lifestyle. The Aman Hotel, Aman branded residences, and Aman Club will be located within eight acres of lush botanical gardens alongside a golf course with incredible views and serenity, and yet it is just moments from the world-renowned Rodeo Drive.

What do your loyal customers expect from an Aman experience?

Aman’s ethos has always been to take cues from its locations, and Aman New York is no different. Here we capture the vibrant and dynamic energy of the city, with design touches that reflect and celebrate the Beaux-Arts architecture of the building and the era in which the iconic Crown Building was constructed.

Throughout the property, we have also utilized the outdoor spaces in all areas to bring great quantities of lush greenery and connect our guests to nature. The wraparound Garden Terrace, the numerous terraces on 56th Street, the two private Spa Houses, and many of the Aman Branded Residences have terraces that feature extensive planting and greenery, as well as tranquil reflective ponds, which bring a sense of harmony and peace in the midst of this urban setting.

The seven-thousand-square-foot wraparound Garden Terrace is home to both our outdoor dining for Arva and an extension of our Lobby Lounge. This feat of engineering and design has created an outdoor oasis with lush greenery, tranquil water features, and fire pits, offering

缦俱乐部空间，再加上七千平方英尺的环绕式 花园露台。

此外，安缦纽约还有一座占地两万五千平 方英尺的 Aman 水疗中心，总共有三层楼，还 有一个二十米长的游泳池、十间护理室、健身 中心及皮拉提斯教室，另有两间独立水疗屋， 提供极为隐密的水疗体验，以及设置冷热水池 的户外露台。

我们近期宣布了比佛利山庄安缦的计画， 这间新设的酒店同样符合安缦品牌的精神与风 格。安缦酒店、安缦品牌住宅和安缦俱乐部将座 落在占地八英亩、郁郁葱葱的植物园，旁边有 一座高尔夫球场，景致美不胜收，环境也相当 宁静，而举世闻名的罗迪欧大道（Rodeo Drive） 就近在咫尺。

品牌忠实客户对安缦体验有何期待？

安缦的精神向来都是以所在地点出发，安 缦纽约也不例外。在此，我们捕捉这座城市的 活力与动态，在设计上反映出布杂艺术建筑的 风格，向经典皇冠大厦落成的年代致敬。 我们还利用所有区域的户外空间，注入葱 翠繁茂的绿色植物，让宾客与大自然有所连结。 环绕式的花园露台、第 56 街的数座露台，两 间私人水疗屋，以及许多安缦品牌住宅的露台， 都种满大量的植栽与绿色植物，同时还有静谧 的倒影池，在都会环境中营造和谐宁静的氛围。

Vlad Doronin

Throughout the property, we have also utilized the outdoor spaces in all areas to bring great quantities of lush greenery and connect our guests to nature.

我们还利用所有区域的 户外空间，注入葱翠繁 茂的绿色植物，让宾客 与大自然有所连结。

guests a large outside space floating above the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street. The Garden Terrace can be used year-round, thanks to our innovative retractable roof, creating the feeling of sitting in the serene garden of a good friend’s home.

When you are at Aman New York, you are in the middle of one of the world’s most hectic cities, and yet you feel as if you are in a serene oasis. We have created an amazing atmosphere and environment – an urban sanctuary.

What is your strategy for developing F+B concepts?

The Aman brand has two signature dining concepts. Meaning “cultivated” in Latin, Arva is an Italian dining concept that was created in partnership with Executive Chef Norbert Niederkofler of threeMichelin-star St. Hubertus at Rosa Alpina, an Aman Partner Hotel located in the Dolomites.

We have four Arva restaurants across the collection of Aman destinations, including Aman Venice, Aman Tokyo, and Amanpuri, as well as Aman New York. Arva reflects the brand’s approach to luxury, celebrating the warmth of traditional Italian family-style dining, with dishes served in the center of the table to encourage sharing. Arva is also focused on sourcing the finest local and seasonal ingredients, reflecting the traditional approach in Italy, as well as the brand’s wider ethos of being connected to its destinations.

In addition to Arva, we have developed Nama, meaning “raw,” our Japanese dining concept that celebrates the principles of washoku, the Japanese culinary tradition. The recently opened Aman New York features a Nama restaurant with an omakase counter offering the

Spa House Terrace 水疗屋户外露台

占地七千平方英尺的环绕式花园露台是 Arva 餐厅的户外座位，也是大堂酒廊的延伸。工 程设计的重心，是建造出一座户外绿洲，有蓊郁 的绿色植物、宁静的水景和火炉，为宾客在第五 大道和第 57 街转角上空打造一个漂浮的大型户 外空间。创新的伸缩式屋顶设计让宾客可全年使 用花园露台，仿佛置身好友家中的宁静花园。 当宾客到访纽约这个世界上最繁忙的城市之 一，安缦酒店却能让他们感觉来到宁静的绿洲。 我们创造出这个无与伦比的环境与氛围，如同闹 市中的庇护之所。

品牌推出的餐饮概念策略为何？ 安缦品牌有两个标志性的餐饮品牌。Arva， 在拉丁文中意为「培养」，专为宾客提供意大 利餐饮，是与位于多洛米蒂山脉、米其林三星 的安缦伙伴酒店 Rosa Alpina 行政主厨 Norbert Niederkofler 合作创建。

安缦品牌目前总共拥有四家 Arva 餐厅，分 别位于威尼斯、东京、普吉岛及纽约。Arva 反映 出品牌对奢华的诠释，颂扬传统意大利家庭料理 的温暖，并将菜肴摆在桌子中央，鼓励宾客分享 共食。Arva 致力于采购最顶级的当地与季节性食 材，体现意大利传统料理方式，以及品牌和所在 地区精神连结的理念。

除了 Arva，品牌另一个餐饮品牌是意为「原 生」的 Nama，这个日式餐饮品牌主要是向日本

chef’s menu each day, which is one of my personal favorite dining experiences.

What impact has Aman had on the world of hospitality in general and, more recently, on New York in particular?

There has been huge interest in the property ahead of its opening, and I am pleased to share that this demand has already converted into high occupancy on the books in the coming months. We expect a great number of our Amanjunkies to be among the first to stay with us – as is their way, they want to “collect” visits at each of our destinations, and Aman New York is the new and crowning jewel in the Aman collection.

We also see our location in New York as a great opportunity to grow the awareness of the Aman brand with a new audience. With over 30 percent of our guests globally coming from the US , Aman New York’s standout location in the city will enable the wider market to better understand our brand, its offerings, and the Aman experience.

Finally, Aman New York is the first location for the next phase of the global Aman Club concept and the first Aman destination with dedicated Aman Club spaces. The Aman Club enables our brand loyalists to be further cemented into the Aman community by connecting with like-minded people and receiving priority access to their home club, in this case, Aman New York, as well as to our global portfolio and the Aman Club’s specially curated programming.

One of the biggest developers in New York told me after he visited Aman New York that we are setting a new standard in luxury hospitality in the city.

烹饪传统的「和食」概念致敬。近期开业的安缦纽 约有一家 Nama 餐厅，其中板前区提供「厨师发办」

料理，这是我个人最爱的用餐体验之一。

安缦对整个世界的酒店产业，尤其是近期对纽 约的酒店环境来说，带来什么影响？ 开业之前，消费者就对这间酒店深感兴趣， 而开业后到未来几个月之间的入住率也确实居高不 下，这点实在让人欣慰。我们预计有大批安缦迷会 成为首批入住者，毕竟他们秉持着集点心态，到每 间安缦集团旗下的酒店入住体验。当然，安缦纽约 就是集团酒店当中既新颖又价值斐然的据点。 同时，安缦纽约可为集团提供绝佳的宣传机 会，让安缦品牌在全新受众间的知名度持续提升。 我们在全球有超过三成的宾客来自美国，安缦纽约 位于纽约市当中最具优势的地点，能让广大消费者 进一步了解我们的品牌价值、产品及安缦体验。 最后，安缦纽约是全球安缦俱乐部规划中， 导入下一个阶段的首要地点，也是第一座拥有安缦 俱乐部专属空间的酒店。安缦俱乐部能让品牌忠实 客户与志同道合的人建立连结，进一步巩固安缦社 群，享有优先入主当地俱乐部的服务，以地区为例， 这里我们提到的便是安缦纽约俱乐部。另外，宾客 也能率先体验全球酒店服务以及安缦俱乐部特别策 划的活动。 纽约最具规模的地产开发商于参观安缦纽约 后对我说，我们已为这座城市的奢华酒店产业设下 全新标竿。

Arva, homemade tagliolini, Ronny Brooke butter and black summer truffle Arva餐厅的黄油黑松露扁意大利面

Executive Chef Dario Ossola 行政主厨 Dario Ossola

正统法餐

really french

Chef-Founder Julien Royer and Executive Chef Partner Franckelie Laloum of Hong Kong restaurant Louise talk with TK about what makes their authentic bistro unique. § 香港Louise餐厅的主厨兼创办人

兼合伙人Franckelie Laloum，与TK分享这间正宗法式小酒馆的独到之处。

How did you and Julien come up with the concept for Louise?

FL: Julien said, “Let’s do a bistro!” The idea was to make a really French restaurant where people can feel good and enjoy good food and service. We didn’t want to do fine dining – we wanted a place where we’d like to go when we’re off work.

Has the initial concept evolved in any way?

JR: The original vision was for something very casual, but after working with so much passion and expertise, it ended up a bit more complex. Our clientele likes a tasting menu but also wants à la carte and lunch. The cooking is Michelin-star level, but the recipes are simpler dishes.

Julien Royer和行政主厨

请问 Louise 这间餐厅从何而来？

FL ：Julien 跟我说：「一起开一间小酒馆吧！」我

们想做的是一间正统的法式餐馆，大家能在餐厅放松心 情，享受优秀的料理与服务。我们不想做高级餐厅，而 是想打造一个大家下班后会去放松、吃吃喝喝的地方。

那这个概念后来有没有改变或调整？

JR ：我们一开始设想的是一些非常随兴惬意的料 理，但是跟如此热情与专业的团队共事之后，这个点 子最后变得更复杂一些。宾客喜欢品尝菜单，但是也 想要单点跟午餐。料理虽然是米其林星级的，但食谱 与料理方式都满简单的。

Where do you get your ingredients?

FL: Our cuisine is based on the products, and we use the best. Most of them come from France – only our chicken and frog are locally sourced. We use producers that either Julien or I have worked with before –the butcher’s a guy I worked with for over ten years. All of our citrus comes from one family in Japan.

Do Hong Kong diners’ preferences differ from those in other places where you’ve worked?

FL : Hong Kong is very different to Shanghai and Tokyo. Here people know how to eat and they have a good food culture – they’re quite picky. Our key point is consistency. You mustn’t change the quality of the cooking or the products, which a lot of restaurants do to save costs. That’s something people hate worldwide but especially here.

JR: People are willing to pay the price for quality, but you’d better deliver! They expect great service, great cuisine, great hospitality.

What else is different in Hong Kong?

JR: It’s easier to get good products here than in Singapore.

FL: You can get whatever you want –I was so surprised that they can get things from the middle of nowhere in France.

What about the staffing situation here?

FL: Staff is a big topic. During COVID-19, people realized they could have a life outside of their job. They were going home at 6:30 p.m., but now we’re back to normal hours.

JR : In this industry, you used to work hundreds of hours a week for low pay and get shut out of the kitchen by an angry chef. It doesn’t work like that anymore, thank God. We have to make the industry sexy and appealing again to attract a new generation of chefs.

↑ Blue lobster “mi-cuit“ 半熟蓝龙虾

↑ ↑ Tuna tartare 吞拿鱼他他

Chef Franckelie Laloum

How do you do that?

FL : Balance. Yes, you have to work fourteen- or sixteen-hour days, but you get two and a half days off a week.

JR : The downside is that people will have to pay more for their meal, because we have to pay more and employ more people – the cost gets passed to the customer.

What do you look for in staff?

JR : The key thing is attitude. We can teach you, but you have to be willing to learn. We like to hire young kids and train them. We need passionate people, and there are still some in our industry. We need to recognize them, since it’s not just about the food, it’s the whole experience. You’ll never have the same working hours as in an office, so people who work in a restaurant need to be special.

What next?

JR: Opening up another location, keeping up the standards, and impressing our guests. It would be good to attract overseas guests now that the borders have reopened.

食材来自什么地方？

FL ：我们的料理都以食材为基础，而且我们只用最顶级的食材。大部 分食材来自法国，只有鸡跟青蛙取自香港本地。供应商之前曾跟我和 Julien 合作过，其中的肉贩跟我已经共事十多年了。我们所有的柑橘都来自日本的 一户农家。

香港宾客的喜好，跟你们以前待过的城市的宾客有什么不同？

FL ：香港、上海跟东京都各不相同。香港人懂吃，有良好的饮食文化， 也相当挑剔。我们的重点在于一致性。你不能任意改变料理或食材的品质， 但很多餐馆都为了节省成本这样做。这种行为在世界各地都不受欢迎，而香 港人尤其鄙视。

JR ：宾客愿意为高品质支付相应的价钱，但我们得有本事能满足他们的 期待。他们期望好的服务、顶尖的料理，以及宾至如归的感受。

香港还有哪些与众不同之处？

JR ：在香港取得新鲜、顶级的食材，比新加坡容易许多。

FL ：在这里，厨师能取得任何想要的食材，我很惊讶这里竟然也能买 到来自法国乡间的农产品。

那餐厅的员工状况呢？

FL ：工作团队安排是一个很大的议题。在 Covid-19 期间，大家意识到 自己在工作之外还能有私人生活。他们大概晚上六点半就回家了，但现在我 们又重回正常的工作时间。

JR ：在餐饮业，大家都曾经为了低工资每周都超时工作，最后被暴怒的

“We wanted a place where we’d like to go when we’re off work.

我们想打造一个大家下班后会 去放松、吃吃喝喝的地方。”

“Plounéour ménez” pigeon 香烤法国Plounéour ménèz鸽子

What kind of feedback have you received?

JR: The best compliment we got is, “I feel at home.” A couple said, “We felt like we were in France these two hours.” That’s what we want – you leave with a smile and you want to come back. We want to be a restaurant where you’d come twice a week.

主厨赶出厨房。现在已经不是这样了，谢天谢地。这个产业又重新变得很 有魅力，能够吸引新一代的厨师加入。

这是如何办到的？

FL ：关键是找到平衡。没错，每天的工时可能长达十四或十六小时。 但每周有两天半的休息时间。

JR ：缺点是宾客会因此为餐厅料理支付更多费用。我们必须雇用更多 员工，这些增加的成本会转嫁到顾客身上。

你们对员工的要求是什么？

JR ：重点是态度。我们很愿意教，但是员工必须有学习的意愿。我们 喜欢雇用年轻人并栽培他们。我们需要有热忱的人，这在这个产业里还不 算难找。但我们需要辨识出有这种特质的人，因为餐饮不只关乎食物，整 个体验都很重要。在餐饮业任职的工作时间跟去办公室上班是不一样的， 所以我们需要与众不同的人才。

下一步是什么？

JR ：开设另一个据点、保持水准，在宾客心中留下深刻印象。现在已 经全面解封，希望能够吸引更多海外顾客。

你们得到哪些反馈？

JR ：最棒的赞美来自一对夫妻，他们说：「这里感觉像家一样，用餐 的两小时如同置身法国。」这是我们想要的，我们希望大家带着微笑离开， 而且会想要再来，让 Louise 成为一间宾客每周会来两次的餐厅。

“People are willing to pay the price for quality, but you’d better deliver! 宾客愿意为高品质支付相 应的价钱，但我们得有 本事能满足他们的期待。”

Chef Julien Royer

Casual bistro dishes feature products imported from France. 餐厅的菜肴皆采用从法国进口的食材。

THIS IS MAGIC

The stars align for a memorable evening of friends, food, and Champagne by Perrier-Jouët.

THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE THE SENSE of excited anticipation that comes with being escorted across the waves on a private yacht to an undisclosed location. The destination is in fact a small secluded cove somewhere in Hong Kong. Animated conversation among the guests echoes across the water, punctuated by frequent bursts of laughter and the occasional pop of a Champagne cork.

The honored group steps off the pier and gathers under arching foliage, greeted with welcoming smiles and flutes of chilled PerrierJouët. As sunset begins to fade and stars begin to shine on this cool spring evening, a candle-lit alfresco dining area beckons from a spot overlooking the water, and moored sailboats and distant city lights add to the enchantment. “This is magic,” remarks Benjamin Sicard, Brand Ambassador of Perrier-Jouët Champagne, as the guests drift casually toward the waiting dinner table.

BY NISSA CORNISH • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

A keen observer might notice that among those at this intimate gathering are several who wear smartly pressed aprons. Closer inspection reveals that these are a select few of Hong Kong’s most sought-after chefs.

The occasion is a unique one indeed, Asia’s first-ever Perrier-Jouët Society dinner. The meticulously planned event’s creative concept is simple: a stunning secret venue, six famous chefs at the top of their game, incredible ingredients to work with, and a group of fortunate dinner guests, two chosen by each of the chefs.

This Hong Kong cohort of chefs will be the first in Asia to become part of the Perrier-Jouët Society. They join culinary masters from Sweden, France, and Spain who have already become part of a global network whose purpose is to connect those whom Perrier-Jouët dubs “artisans of nature,” chefs who are skilled at – and passionate about –delighting diners with experiences that will linger fondly in the memory.

Tonight’s event marks the first step on a journey for the six culinary stars. Later this year, they travel to France to visit Maison Belle Époque, former home of the founders of Perrier-Jouët and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where they will forge connections with the wider global Society.

As part of their initiation this night, the Society’s newest members have been invited to do what they do best: create extraordinary food –and to do so in the convivial company of professional peers and people they care about.

再也没有比搭着私人游艇随着海浪抵达隐密的私 房地点，更能让人雀跃期待了。这个隐密的私房 地点，其实是香港一个隐蔽的小海湾。宾客的热 络交谈在水面上回荡，谈笑声伴随着香槟软木塞 的悦耳开瓶声，在船上此起彼落。 尊贵的宾客走下码头，聚集在拱形的树叶底 下，迎面而来的是诚挚的笑脸及沁凉的 PerrierJouët 香槟。在这个凉爽的春日夜晚，夕阳逐渐 西下，星星愈发闪耀，点着蜡烛的露天用餐区欢 迎宾客入座，而此处的高度恰好能让人俯瞰海湾 水面，停泊的帆船和远处的都会灯光 让人更加陶醉。宾客随意走向摆设妥 当的餐桌时，Perrier-Jouët 的品牌大 使 Benjamin Sicard 表示：「这就是魔 法。」 敏锐的观察者可能会注意到，在 这场亲密私人的聚会中，有几个人穿 着熨烫得体的围裙。细看就会发现，原来他们是 香港其中几位最受欢迎的厨师。

这确实是一场别开生面的盛宴，因为这是 亚洲首场的 Perrier-Jouët Society 晚宴。这次活

动经精心策划，背后的创意灵感非常简单：一个 迷人惊艳的秘密场地、六位称霸料理界的名厨、 令人赞叹不已的食材，以及一群幸运的宾客 – –每位厨师可以邀请两位家人、朋友或员工参与晚 宴。

这群香港名厨，即将成为亚洲首批加入 Perrier-Jouët Society 的厨师。他们会加入由来

自瑞典、法国和西班牙的烹饪大师组成的全球网 络，与被 Perrier-Jouët 誉为「自然工匠」的厨师 们建立连结。这群厨师都擅长并热衷于为宾客提 供愉悦的美食飨宴，让宾客留下美好回忆。 当晚的活动是这六位烹饪界明星踏上旅程 的第一步。他们今年将会前往法国参观 PerrierJouët 创办人的故居，同时也是联合国教科文组 织世界遗产的 Maison Belle Époque。到时这些 名厨将能够与全球其他 Perrier-Jouët Society 的 主厨进一步交流。

当夕阳缓缓落下，Perrier-Jouët Society 的

PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

Conversation becomes a special occasion with the addition of caviar and a chilled bottle of Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque.

宾客一边享用鱼子酱和Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque香槟，一边谈笑风生。

The chefs had arrived chatty and light-hearted, buoyed by a lavish supply of Perrier-Jouët and caviar en route. But once they descend on the kitchen, the mood is set by Chef Angelo Aglianó of Michelin-starred Tosca di Angelo: “Let’s get to work!” With the speed and precision of seasoned experience, knives come out and soon the only sounds are those of chopping and dicing.

As these consummate pros slip into the familiar rhythms of the kitchen and relax into the beauty of the setting, tempting aromas start to arise and the atmosphere lightens. Smiles emerge and jokes and good-natured teasing are exchanged in French, Italian, German, and English.

Watching them cook produces the heady sensation of sitting in a coveted spot at the chef’s table at not one but rather a whole collection of the city’s top restaurants. Along with Chef Aglianó is “demon chef” Alvin Leung, best known for his twoMichelin-star Bo Innovation; Chef Bjoern Alexander, recently of two-star Octavium and now helming Matera in Singapore; Chef Romain Dupeyre previously of Michelinstarred Petrus, and his partner, Chef Adrien Castillo, both of newly opened Racines; and Chef Jaakko Sorsa of TK’s Ocean Table and previously of FINDS

Among the evening’s pleasant surprises is the menu. The six chefs have been divided into three teams, each given a unique ingredient and a Perrier-Jouët Champagne pairing to build their contribution around. Chefs Leung and Sorsa fuse their Asian and Nordic culinary backgrounds to prepare sweet local scallops, charred and drizzled with fresh Szechuan pepper sauce, served with ice plant tempura, and beautifully complemented by Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque 2014.

Camaraderie prevails as six professionals work together seamlessly. 六位专业主厨合作无间，默契十足。

Chefs Alexander and Dupeyre create a sumptuous yet comforting roast beef with morel sauce accompanied by roasted local carrots and cauliflower and perfectly paired with Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Rosé 2006. With a bounty of fresh organic produce at their disposal, chefs Aglianó and Castillo present a parmesan risotto with asparagus and mixed mushrooms cooked en papillotte and masterfully matched with Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs 2014.

The chefs, given the opportunity to share the evening’s exclusive experience with guests of their choice, including spouses, dear friends, and staff, are as eager to please as if they were cooking for the world’s leading food critics. “We love being able to give something back to our teams,” says Dupeyre. Adds Castillo, ”Everything we’re doing is done with love.”

最新成员受邀进行他们最擅长的事，也就是创造非凡的料理， 并且在专业同行与他们心系的贵宾欢聚陪伴下完成这项任务， 作为简单而隆重的「入会仪式」。

主厨们抵达现场时气氛活络轻松，同时还能享用无限量 供应的 Perrier-Jouët 香槟与鱼子酱来提振士气。但一来到厨 房，米其林星级餐厅 Tosca di Angelo 的主厨 Angelo Aglianó 就立刻为现场气氛定调：「我们开始工作吧！」经验丰富的大 厨迅速拿出料理刀具，精准出手，现场很快只剩切菜备料的 声响。 不过，当这些技艺精湛的专业主厨遁入熟悉的厨房步调、 融入美丽的背景环境之中，诱人的香味开始飘散而出，气氛 也变得轻松欢快。大家面带微笑，用法文、意大利文、德文 和英文谈笑风生、有说有笑。 他们专注做菜时的举手投足都别具魅力，宾客仿佛同 时在香港数家顶尖餐厅中，坐在梦寐以求的主厨桌旁观赏 大厨做菜，尊荣感不言而喻。与 Angelo 一起下厨的还有

Guests enjoy dinner by the sea, served family-style. 家庭式的晚宴在海边举行。

The evening is filled with conviviality and Champagne toasts. 这个欢乐的晚上充满了欢欣笑语及此起彼落的碰杯声音。

厨魔 Alvin Leung，他以其米其林二星餐厅 Bo Innovation 而闻名；还有曾任二星餐厅 Octavium 的大厨，现掌厨新加坡 Matera 的 Bjoern Alexander ；曾任米其林星级餐厅 Petrus 的大厨 Romain Dupeyre，和他的搭档 Adrien Castillo， 他们现主理新开业的 Racines ；还有先前任职

于 FINDS，目前是 TK Ocean Table 行政总厨的 Jaakko Sorsa。

当晚最惊艳的亮点是菜单。六位厨师分成三 组，每组都用一种食材与一款 Perrier-Jouët 香槟 搭配，来展现他们的创意与功力。厨师 Alvin 及 Jaakko 结合他们亚洲与北欧的烹饪传统，准备甜 美的本地扇贝，将其炙烧过后淋上新鲜的四川花 椒酱，与冰菜天妇罗相辅相成，与 Perrier-Jouët

Belle Époque 2014 香槟形成完美绝配。

厨师 Bjoern 和 Romain 制作丰盛舒心的羊 肚菌酱烤牛肉，配以烘烤过的本地胡萝卜与花椰 菜，并与 Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Rosé 2006 香槟完美搭配。厨师 Angelo 和 Adrien 利用他们 取得的大量新鲜有机食材，烹煮成香气四溢的帕 玛森意大利饭，佐以纸包料理的芦笋和各式蘑菇， 并巧妙地以 Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs 2014 香槟搭配。

厨师们借此机会与他们邀请的宾客分享独家 体验，同时就像为世界级美食评论家下厨一样， 渴望能让宾客惊艳满意。Romain 表示：「我们很 开心能用这种形式回馈我们的团队。」Adrien 补 充说：「我们所做的一切都充满爱。」

PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

for the GUIDE GALA

To celebrate the release of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau 2023, seven stellar chefs create a magnificent menu at Grand Lisboa Palace.

大厨于澳门上葡京综合度假村隆重推出一系列的华美菜式。

BY LUCY MORGAN •

HARTUNG

为庆祝2023年《香港澳门米其林指南》发布，七位星级

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID

A WARM SPRING EVENING in April witnessed a throng of glamorously attired guests gathering for a feast to mark the eagerly anticipated launch of the fifteenth edition of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau. SJM Resorts and Michelin partnered to host the glittering event. The blacktie affair, attended by about five hundred guests, served not only to celebrate the new Guide but also to enhance Macau’s status as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.

Seven culinary masters from Michelin-star restaurants took over the Grand Pavilion at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau to present an extraordinary eight-course dinner that featured original dishes expressing each chef’s personal approach. The result was a spectrum of global fine-dining, a stunning series of Asian and Western dishes, from classic Cantonese to contemporary French, created by a mix of home-grown talent and regional and international superstars.

It was a menu designed to astonish and delight, one that highlighted the very best ingredients, brilliant technical execution, and imaginative plating. TK has persuaded the seven chefs to reveal some of the secrets and inspirations behind their creations.

在四月的一个温馨夜晚，一群宾客盛装出席一场美食飨宴， 庆祝《香港澳门米其林指南》推出第十五版的里程碑。此 次热闹的盛会由澳娱综合和《米其林指南》协力举办，近 五百位嘉宾出席，一同见证 2023 年度《米其林指南》的发 布，也推广澳门作为联合国教科文组织评定的「创意城市 美食之都」的美誉。

活动邀来七位米其林星级大厨联合携手，于澳门上葡 京综合度假村的上葡京礼堂（Grand Pavilion）带来八道菜 式的晚宴，每一道菜皆展现大厨的独到风格。名厨阵容包 括本地与邻近厨艺菁英及国际料理巨星，从经典广东菜到 当代法国菜，菜单完美融合东西餐饮文化，让味蕾展开环 球之旅。

这次的菜单选用最顶级的食材，经团队精湛的烹调， 配合简约别致的摆盘，成就惊艳而愉悦的五感体验。TK 很 幸运邀请到七位米其林星级大厨，与我们分享他们的创作 灵感和秘诀。

(clockwise from top left) César Augustyniak, Albert Au Kwok Keung, Ken Chan, Julien Tongourian, Sebastien Lepinoy, Vincent Thierry, José Avillez

LE

1st

Julien Tongourian Robuchon au Dôme, Macau

“This recipe was created by Mr. Robuchon himself, a long time ago,” says Chef Tongourian. “The king crab is cooked alive, keeping the flesh very fresh.” A lobster and crustacean jelly supports lightly seasoned fresh crab beneath a disk of glistening caviar “providing an element of surprise.” Concentric circles of cauliflower cream spheres surround the smaller beads of black caviar, which is topped with a cluster of gleaming gold leaf.

厨师 Julien 说：「这道菜由名厨侯布雄亲创， 已有多年历史。烹制时必须使用活体帝王蟹， 以确保肉质处于最新鲜的状态。」以龙虾和 甲壳类海鲜制成的果冻为基底，上头有稍作 调味的新鲜蟹肉，蟹肉上再覆盖一层闪闪发 亮的鱼子酱，层层堆叠的元素带来源源不绝 的味蕾惊喜。摆盘的中心是黑鱼子酱，花椰 菜奶油小球环绕四周，最后在鱼子酱中心以 叶状金箔点缀。

CAVIAR / KING CRAB / CRUSTACEAN JELLY / CAULIFLOWER CREAM 鱼子酱帝王蟹塔伴海鲜冻

Ken Chan 陈伟强

Le Palais, Taipei 台北颐宫

DEEP-FRIED WAGYU AND SEAFOOD ROLL / BEEF JUS / COFFEE SAUCE 百花和牛啡香卷

When a colleague told him that coffee and Wagyu beef make a great pairing, Chef Chan decided to create a dish combining both. Wagyu is pan-fried and then steeped for two hours in a sauce infused with Nespresso Peru Organic coffee. Shrimp paste provides another layer of umami before the beef is wrapped in vermicelli and fried. Served with coffee sauce, the dish is playfully presented in a simulated bird’s nest.

有一次，一位同事和厨师陈伟强分享和牛 与咖啡搭配所创造的绝妙风味组合，让他 决定制作一道结合两样元素的料理。和牛 先经香煎，并放在 Nespresso 有机秘鲁咖 啡制成的酱汁中腌制两小时，其后以虾酱 带出牛肉的鲜味，再以细面包裹牛肉油炸。 这道菜用上与别不同的鸟巢形态容器盛 装，搭配香浓咖啡酱汁一同享用。

Vincent Thierry Chef’s Table, Bangkok

Chef Thierry, who likes to create a feeling of comfort and home with his contemporary French cuisine, has made a very traditional beef stew with red wine, beef cheek, ox tongue, and bone marrow. “It reminds me of eating beef noodles with my team in Hong Kong,” he says. It is served with a perfectly griddled spear of green asparagus and an elegant coil of colorful salad leaves for freshness.

厨师 Vincent 乐于透过他的当代法 国菜，营造「家」的温暖感。他 使用了牛颊肉、牛舌和牛骨髓制 作传统的红酒炖牛肉。他说：「这 道菜让我想起在香港和团队一起 吃牛肉面的记忆。」炖肉搭配烤得 恰到好处的绿芦笋，以及一球鸟 巢状的 Meli-Melo 沙拉，整体搭 配丰富清爽。

GRILLED VAUCLUSE GREEN ASPARAGUS / SALAD MELI-MELO / BRAISED BEEF VINAIGRETTE

烤法国 VAUCLUSE 绿芦笋／ MELI-MELO 沙拉／慢炖牛肉油醋汁

Specializing in traditional Cantonese and Huaiyang dishes, Chef Au prepares a fillet of spotted garoupa using two techniques: “I fry the fish first to release its aromas and then it is simmered and steamed. This gives it a new and distinct flavor.” The garoupa is served with a signature of his cuisine, a wonderfully complex broth combining chicken and fish stocks. Locally grown radish lends an extra dash of flavor.

厨师欧国强擅于烹调传统广东和淮扬 菜，并融合两种菜系的料理手法烹煮 东星斑：「先香煎鱼肉以释出鲜香， 再炖蒸，让鱼肉尝起来可口独特。」

东星斑搭配他以鸡汤、鱼汤熬制而成 的招牌金汤，汤材还包括本地种植的 萝卜，堆叠出多重层次的自然风味。

PAN-FRIED SPOTTED GAROUPA FILLET / SUPREME BROTH 金汤煎煮东星斑

José

Presiding over restaurant Mesa at SJM , Chef Avillez combines traditional ingredients with innovation in his contemporary Portuguese cuisine. “The Portuguese may have taken curry from India to Thailand, so this dish is like a Portuguese Thai curry with a small apple salad,” he says. Avillez, who likes different temperatures on a plate, serves cool apple salad alongside warm curry sauce. “Flavors, textures and temperatures are very important to me.”

与澳娱综合旗下餐厅味赏联 䘧 的厨师 José Avillez，擅长在传统葡萄牙菜中加入当代元素， 创造出具个人特色的当代葡萄牙菜。José 说： 「葡萄牙人把咖喱从印度带到了泰国，所以这 道菜会是一道葡式风味的泰式咖喱佐苹果沙 拉。」他热爱温度相异搭配的菜式组合，因而 想出了这道冰凉苹果沙拉搭配温暖咖喱酱的味 觉惊喜。他说：「在我的烹调中，风味、口感 和温度都非常重要。」

BLUE LOBSTER / FLAVORS OF GREEN CURRY / APPLE 蓝龙虾「青」咖喱配苹果酱

th

Sebastien Lepinoy Les Amis, Singapore

新加坡 LES AMIS

“In Hong Kong,” says Chef Lepinoy about his culinary approach, “I found myself as a chef.” For the gala dinner, he sears pork, adds liquid, covers, and cooks slowly. A rich sauce is made from red and white wine, veal glaze, and capers, whose piquant floral notes enhance the heady stock and wine aromas. It is elegantly served in a bowl with tiny cubes of celeriac studding the glossy sauce.

厨师 Sebastien 说：「我在香港找到了自己作 为一名厨师的意义。」他为这场盛会晚宴制作 了一道慢炖猪面颊肉：先轻煎猪肉，加入卤汁， 盖上锅盖慢炖。他用红酒、白酒、小牛肉汁和 水瓜柳制作味道丰盈的酱汁，水瓜柳的辛辣花 香为浓郁的汤底和酒香增添了层次。这道菜盛 在碗中，酱汁闪着光泽，在块根芹的衬托下以 优雅的姿态上桌。

BRAISED PORK CHEEK / CAPERS / CELERIAC 慢炖猪面颊肉 / 水瓜柳 / 块根芹

César Augustyniak

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Hong Kong

“This is a powerful childhood memory from Western France,” says Chef Augustyniak about his clever take on the traditional pairing of strawberries and cream. Combining strawberry mousse, fresh strawberries, strawberry punch with whiskey crème brûlée, strawberry jelly, and an extra touch of texture from crispy rice, this stylishly plated dish is understated but irresistible. “I go to the essence of each product and find the perfect balance,” says the chef.

厨师 César 说：「这是我童年回忆的精心重现。」他小 时候住在法国西部的回忆让他重新诠释了草莓和奶油 的经典组合，融合草莓慕斯、新鲜草莓果肉、草莓糖浆、 草莓宾治配威士忌焦糖布丁、草莓果冻，以及点亮丰 富口感的脆米，即便简约的摆盘风格也难挡这组合的 甜美滋味。César  说：「深入了解食材每种形态下的极 致，就能呈现最完美的平衡。」

LA PERLE ROUGH / GARIGUETTE STRAWBERRY IN MANY WAYS / VANILLA RED PEARL / BOURBON 法式草莓配果冻及威士忌奶油

8th

César Augustyniak

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Hong Kong

香港 L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

Resembling a giant hazelnut, this rich chocolate delight gives diners the chance to get a little violent: “Smash the shell!” says Chef Augustyniak. It splinters to reveal a featherlight chocolate mousse with liquid hazelnut praline inside. “It was inspired by the large copper saucepans used to cook hazelnut praline,” he says. The giant nut is surrounded by tiny cubes of jelly, hemispheres of gel, and toasted hazelnut halves.

LA NOISETTE / HAZELNUT MOUSSE / CHOCOLATE SHELL / PRALINE / YUZU 巧克力榛子配柚子及果仁

Boiled Mandarin Fish Fillets in Chili Oil from Feng Wei Ju 风味居的水煮飘香沸腾鱼

ARTISANS OF FLAVOR

The acclaimed restaurants of Galaxy Macau™ highlight the endless creativity of the city’s rich culinary culture.

BY JOYCE KWOK

Thissummer, Galaxy Macau™ – the glittering integrated luxury resort that is home to some of the region’s most celebrated restaurants – presents its latest dining adventure, “Tastes of Macau, Artisans of Flavor.”

As part of the event, eight chefs and their culinary teams have created a mouthwatering mosaic of Macau’s diverse food culture with some of the best from a range of cuisines spanning the globe. Designed to support the Macao Government Tourism Office’s “Tourism + Gastronomy” campaign, “Tastes of Macau, Artisans of Flavor” is destined to enhance Macau’s stature as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.

Among the Galaxy Macau™ participants is Japanese fine-dining restaurant Yamazato, recommended by Forbes Travel Guide. Executive Chef Morihiro Takeda presents such sumptuous traditional Japanese kaiseki dishes as Oita Bungo Wagyu, Persimmons with Mushrooms, and Grilled Splendid Alfonsino.

A superlative selection of wines, cocktails, and Chinese teas from chief sommelier Han Yew Kong, mixologist Shobit Shetty, and award-winning tea critic Andrew Yu heighten the dining experience across the restaurants of Galaxy Macau™, where authentic techniques and flavors offer all the beauty and bounty of the world’s finest cuisines.

As a tempting sample of Galaxy Macau™’s stellar array of international restaurants, three are presented here that feature flavors ranging from Hunanese and Sichuanese to Italian with a Sicilian accent to elevated Cantonese:

最近，集合多间获奖食府的「澳門銀河™」综合度假城推出名为「澳门味道．

匠心传奇」系列活动，积极支持澳门特区政府推动「旅游 + 美食」跨界融合， 扩充澳门作为「美食之都」的丰富内涵。八位主厨及团队联袂合作，透过世界 各地的特色菜肴，拼凑出澳门的多元美食文化故事。

以刚获得「福布斯旅游指南」推荐的日本会席料理餐厅山里为例，由行政 主厨武田守弘主理的会席料理精致奢华，借大分县丰后和牛、柿子拌野山珍、 烤金目鲷等名菜，以原汁原味的手法，如实映照东洋海陆之美。

至于平时惯作「配角」的酒饮与中国茶，在这里亦足以与「主角」美食分 庭抗礼。首席侍酒师韩友光、调酒师 Shobit Shetty，以及年轻的得奖茶评师余 梓谦均有来历，让其精选的葡萄酒、鸡尾酒及中国茶无不成为到此探索的原 因。

其中三位「澳門銀河™」旗下的湘川菜、意大利西西里風味菜和粤菜餐厅 的米其林星级主厨，将以他们的大师匠心，讲述美食传奇。

FENG

WEI JU

风味居

CHAN CHEK KEONG 陈植强

“CHEFS SHOULD ALWAYS BE LOOKING, asking questions, and reflecting,” says Executive Chef Chan Chek Keong of StarWorld Hotel’s Feng Wei Ju, which has held two Michelin stars for seven consecutive years. True to his words, Chef Chan has built his reputation on bold creativity and adventurous flavors.

Dishes like Boiled Mandarin Fish Fillets in Chili Oil reveal Chan’s willingness to both draw from and go beyond Hunan culinary tradition. Sizzling red oil, brewed for three days using a secret recipe with more than twenty kinds of green and red chilies, is poured over the prepared fish fillets for a tangy aroma.

Steamed Carp Fish Head with Pickled Chili, popular in Chan’s native Hunan, calls for organic fish from the region’s famous Lake Dongting. They are steamed at a precise temperature with chopped chilies for a fresh and spicy taste. Boneless Beef Ribs with Homemade Chili Sauce, a Feng Wei Ju signature, attains its amazingly fragrant flavor by slowcooking the ribs for three hours over alternating low and high flame to ensure that the spices are fully absorbed.

Despite his status as chef of a two-star restaurant, Chan still takes part in day-to-day cooking alongside his team. Leading by example, he strives to foster a new generation of Chinese chefs.

「厨师最忌固步自封，必须多看、多问、多思考。」

星际酒店连续七年获得米其林二星的湘川食府风 味居总厨陈植强敢于创新突破，以他的名菜「水 煮飘香沸腾鱼」作例，他不囿于老做法，以汤为主、 以油为副，巧借粤菜用汤之道，交出最真挚的鲜 味。他也坚持炼红油的工序用二十多种四川 青红花椒、花上三天时间炮制。滚热的红油浇淋 在新鲜桂花鱼片上烫香，滋滋作响，扑鼻的香气 让人垂涎。

除了沸腾鱼，也不难从湖南名菜剁椒鱼头， 体会到陈师傅生于「鱼米之乡」的优势。他特意 选用来自洞庭湖的有机大鱼头，铺上剁椒为主的 配料蒸制，悉心拿捏火候与温度，鲜辣适口。另 一道湘菜「荷香酱牛肋肉」同样考验火候牛 肋肉需用文、武火交替扣煮三小时，卤水中的香 料才会深入每吋肉的肌里，齿颊留香。

至今已连续七年为餐厅摘下米其林二星的陈 师傅，仍常常与学徒并肩参与每一项小事，希望 为新一代厨师做出榜样，并为他们争取多一些学 习、成长的机会。

8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA

RICCARDO LA PERNA

← Tuna Tartare with Caviar 金枪鱼他他配鱼子酱

COMING TO 8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA, which has held one Michelin star for eight consecutive years, is like being invited to an Italian friend’s house for dinner: the atmosphere is relaxed, the service is cordial, and the food by Executive Chef Riccardo La Perna is simple but extraordinary.

“I especially loved Sunday mornings,” recalls Chef Riccardo. “The meal was filled with the aromas of homemade pasta, Sunday gravy, and bread fresh from the oven.” Born and raised in Sicily, he holds recollections of food that are entwined with feelings of home.

“In the summer, we had barbecues and enjoyed beautiful vegetables from the garden – onions, peppers, eggplants, and zucchini.”

The chef sources the finest seasonal products from Italy but never hesitates to adjust the menu in the moment to reflect whatever is freshest. Demonstrating this uncompromising insistence on the best are two of the restaurant’s most popular signatures, Tuna Tartare with Caviar and Pasta with Sea Urchins Seasoned with Sicilian Almond Oil. “This is the spirit of Italian cuisine,” says the chef. “In Sicily, we treat the land as our mother and show respect for all ingredients.”

来到连续八年荣获米其林一星的 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA，吃着行政总厨 Riccardo La Perna 简而不 凡的料理，加上轻松的氛围、体贴的服务，就像来到 一位意大利朋友的家中吃饭。

「我从小喜欢星期日，因为家里早上总飘散着自 制意大利面、浓郁肉酱，还有刚出炉面包的诱人香气

」生于意大利南部西西里的 Riccardo，大部分的

饮食记忆都与「家」有关。「五、六月时，我们会用 后园即摘的新鲜蔬果和香料烧烤，例如洋葱、辣椒、 茄子和西葫芦等。」这些珍贵回忆，不仅是他心目中 独有的地中海风味，也形塑出这家餐厅的轮廓与温度。 Riccardo 即使身在澳门，仍从意大利各地采购 当季上好食材，只要有更新鲜的食材上场，他都会毫 不犹疑地调整餐单，好让整顿饭充满季节感，也让客 人有宾至如归的感觉。餐厅的巧手经典前菜「金枪鱼 他他配鱼子酱」、面食「海胆意大利面配西西里杏仁 油」等，看似简单，但无不藏着他对选材的坚持。「这 也是意大利菜的精神，当地人把土地视为母亲，对大 小食材都心怀敬意。」

HIGH ON THE FIFTY-FIRST FLOOR of The Ritz-Carlton, Macau, one-Michelinstar fine-dining Cantonese restaurant Lai Heen is masterfully helmed by Chinese Executive Chef Jackie Ho Hon-sing. After more than four decades at top restaurants in Guangzhou, Beijing, and Bangkok, he has captured the taste buds of gourmands in Hong Kong and Macau with his deep understanding of international ingredients and his vast portfolio of cooking techniques.

During his ten years in Thailand, Chef Ho was invited on numerous occasions to cook for the royal family, with the former king especially praising his Deep-Fried Cod Fillet with Crispy Garlic. Today, guests at Michelin-starred Lai Heen can dine on menu-favorite Deep-Fried Chilean Sea Bass Fillet with Crispy Garlic and experience what the king found so remarkable.

Stewed Prawns with Port Wine Sauce in Casserole is another popular dish that expresses the chef’s signature creativity. A blend of spices and port wine from Portugal, the sauce is key to the layers of taste and color that elevate select Vietnamese prawns to heavenly status. Steamed Crab Claw with Egg White displays Ho’s rigor in sourcing ingredients. Carefully selected top-quality blue crab from Vietnam is slowly steamed with egg white and ten-year-aged Huadiao wine for a result as tender as pudding.

澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店中餐行政总厨何 汉升，主掌位于酒店五十一楼的米其 林一星餐厅丽轩。他在广州、北京、 曼谷的知名餐厅掌厨逾四十年的经 验，挟着对国际食材、风味掌握的和 谐精准，很快掳获一众港澳饕客的心。 何师傅在泰国生活超过十年， 前泰王亦曾经召他进宫廷主理数场国 宴，对他改编自港式避风塘炒蟹的 「酥脆蒜香银鳕鱼」更是连声赞叹。 如今，客人可以在丽轩，品尝招牌菜 「酥脆蒜香智利鲈鱼柳」，借以感受前 泰王当时的欣喜。

餐厅的其他名菜也藏有何师傅 的创见，包括「砵酒焗虾球煲」，用 葡国名产甜砵酒及香料作秘制酱汁， 为特选的越南大虾增添细腻多变的层 次，既有澳葡色彩，也具广东风味； 「蛋白蒸鲜蟹钳」同见他选材的独到 眼光：精选上等越南大青蟹与蛋白一 起以慢火蒸制，口感如布丁般滑嫩。 蟹肉则浇上十年酿制花雕酒，让甘甜 鲜味透出淡淡酒香。

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

Steamed Crab Claw with Egg White 蛋白蒸鲜蟹钳

夺奖双雄

a winning pair

FIVE FOOT ROAD

FIVE FOOT ROAD AT MGM COTAI was awarded its first Michelin star this year. Both the décor and menu evoke Chengdu of the 1940s and the “mansion banquet” culinary tradition that blossomed there at the time. Much of the credit for the restaurant’s success goes to Chef de Cuisine Yang Dengquan, who was born and raised in Chengdu and is a second generation inheritor of the tradition.

Chef Yang’s masterly skills in execution and in bringing out the absolute best in terms of flavors are displayed in specialties like a rare Bashu dish, Stewed White Duck with Matsutake Mushroom, Ginger, Ham, and Seasonal Vegetables, as well as the classic Chengdu dish served at the mansions, Stewed Minced Chicken Bouillon with Bird’s Nest. In line with the exacting refinement of the Chengdu mansion culinary tradition, Yang pays particular attention to seasoning with ingredients sourced directly from Sichuan. Five Foot Road complements culinary excellence with a choice selection of teas that exemplify the elegance of a bygone era.

「蜀道」是今年新进榜的米其林一星高级川菜餐厅。餐 厅团队矢志复刻上世纪四十年代于成都公馆大宅内的吉 光片羽，不但有上流雅士品尝的经典菜，亦有磅礴大气 的琉璃壁画，冀盼还原热闹大宅的堂皇。

餐厅能顺利摘星，要归功率领厨房团队的总厨杨 登全师傅。生于成都的杨师傅，是老成都官府菜的第二 代传承人。从巴蜀近乎失传的「神仙鸭子」，到成都菜 之技艺经典「芙蓉官燕鸡豆花」，皆印证杨师傅展现川 菜味型内涵的娴熟功架。他对食材极其讲究，调味料更 是首选川蜀出产的，以呈现成都菜婉约雅致的底蕴。

与川馔相辅相承的，自然是这里的餐配茶。各式 各样或甜爽或醇和的茶香韵调，皆令人感受到成都的素 雅与悠然。

Stewed Minced Chicken Bouillon with Bird’s Nest 芙蓉官燕鸡豆花

The sophisticated Sichuan cuisine of Five Foot Road and the creatively classic Lingnan cuisine of Imperial Court have brought prestigious awards to two of MGM’s signature restaurants. They brilliantly represent what are perhaps the best-known among China’s astonishing diversity of cuisines, and each of them preserves the essence of its heritage while enriching it in novel and contemporary ways. § 中国各地饮食口味百花齐放，而川菜与粤菜仍让当今无数饕客津津乐道。川菜以丰富 味型见称，粤菜则讲究原汁原味，两者的内涵仍在不断深化与拓展。美高梅珍视中国传统饮食与文化，旗下两家得奖 餐厅 高级川菜餐厅「蜀道」及粵菜餐厅「金殿堂」，无不戮力保留各自菜系的精髓，并丰富它们的底蕴。

IMPERIAL COURT AT MGM MACAU, which this year was awarded one diamond by the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, features Lingnan cuisine, a culinary tradition with roots in China’s Tang and Song dynasties. The menu offers a broad array of Lingnan specialties, including Guangfu-inspired dishes. The restaurant’s interior design of refined elegance centers on a magnificently carved stone dragon pillar, a symbol of the Chinese imperial court since ancient times.

Chef de Cuisine Homan Tsui, with more than two decades of experience, is a master of the traditional tastes and techniques of Lingnan cuisine, which celebrates the inherent flavors of seasonal ingredients, often through braising, stewing, or steaming. Chef Tsui also makes a point of meeting the tastes of a younger generation with dishes like Crispy Fried Chicken Skin with Shrimp Mousse with Salted Fish Flakes and Braised Partridge Porridge with Bird’s Nest and Yunnan Ham, both of which demonstrate the evolving flavors of Lingnan cuisine and its ever-expanding culinary range.

今年澳门美高梅的中菜厅「金殿堂」亦获《黑珍珠餐厅指南》颁发 为一钻餐厅。餐厅多年志在颂扬自唐宋以来的岭南饮食精髓，让客 人借着品尝精巧的广府手工菜，从而欣赏岭南的饮食文化面貌。室 内设计亦颇富意境，大厅中央的石雕龙柱气势恢宏，犹如百年前帝 王于殿堂进膳。

掌舵的餐厅总厨徐伟豪入行超过二十年，深谙传统岭南饮食崇 尚原味、不时不食的法则，作法多为「焖、炖、扣」；但他亦愿意与 时俱进，兼听这个世代的饮食诉求与口味，研发出充满时代感的新 菜式。他的得意作品有「岭南脆皮渔香百花鸡」、「金腿燕窝鹧鸪粥」， 尽展百变多元的岭南风味。

IMPERIAL COURT

Crispy Fried Chicken Skin with Shrimp Mousse with Salted Fish Flakes 岭南脆皮渔香百花鸡

José Avillez

经典流传

legacy of a legend

UNIQUE AMONG THE WORLD’S HOTELS for interiors designed entirely by the fashion legend, THE KARL LAGERFELD MACAU recently held its gala grand celebration. A stellar lineup of local and international celebrities and guests paid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy while enjoying an unrivaled experience that only Macau and the exceptional hotel have to offer.

Karl Lagerfeld’s inimitable style and cosmopolitan, cutting-edge approach have been brought to dazzling life throughout every corner of the hotel. A design inspired by Macau’s history as a Portuguese colony and its continuing mix of cultures showcases a lavish blend of Chinese and Western aesthetics, including a spectacular custom-made 3.5-meter-tall Chinese-style porcelain vase that serves as a dramatic focal point in the lobby. Bespoke art pieces throughout the rooms and hallways reveal the extraordinary reach of Karl Lagerfeld’s visionary creativity.

澳门卡尔拉格斐奢华酒店大楼是全球唯一由传奇设 计大师 Karl Lagerfeld（卡尔拉格斐）亲自设计及 以其命名的奢华酒店大楼。酒店最近在澳门上葡京 综合度假村举办盛大庆祝典礼，一众本地及国际名 人盛装出席，向时尚大师致敬，更藉此体验设计巨 匠无与伦比的摩登格调。

BY NICOLE SLATER • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Karl Lagerfeld 独特的风格与国际 化的前瞻设计，都在酒店的每个角落中 发挥得淋漓尽致。他的设计灵感来自澳 门的葡萄牙殖民地历史及延续至今的中 西文化融合，创新展现奢华风尚的中西 美学。摆放在大厅的手工订制瓷器花瓶 高 3.5 米，成为引人注目的焦点；多个遍布房间与 走廊的艺术作品，处处展现了「老佛爷」的前沿时 尚洞见及非凡影响。

Born in Germany, Karl Lagerfeld moved to Paris in the 1950s and began his career working for several top fashion houses, including Balmain, Patou, and Chloé. His astute eye and groundbreaking designs earned him the position of consultant director of Italian design house Fendi before he debuted his first couture collection for Chanel in 1983.

It was there that he ascended from designer to fashion legend, merging modern design concepts with Chanel’s traditional understanding of fashion. He remained with the fashion house for seventeen years, solidifying the brand’s place in modern fashion history.

Lagerfeld was also a keen photographer, illustrator, writer, and interior designer, bringing his unique stylistic approach to every endeavor he undertook. THE KARL LAGERFELD MACAU, one of his last projects before his passing in 2019, stands as a masterly tribute to the designer’s unrivaled creativity.

Along with 271 luxurious guest rooms and suites, the hotel offers two unique dining options, The Book Lounge and Mesa by José Avillez, a contemporary Portuguese restaurant with local Macanese influences.

Karl Lagerfeld 生于德国，于 1950 年代移居巴 黎并开展其设计师生涯，曾为 Balmain、Patou 和 Chloé 等多个顶级时装品牌服务。他独到的眼光与 开创性的设计思维，让他成功担任意大利设计品牌 Fendi 的设计顾问总监，后来在 1983 年为 Chanel 设计人生中的第一个高级订制服系列。

在 Chanel 任职期间，他从设计师晋升为时尚 界传奇人物，将现代设计理念与 Chanel 的时尚经 典相互融合。他在 Chanel 服务了十七年，也巩固 了该品牌在现代时尚界中的地位。

Karl Lagerfeld 同时是一位热情的摄影师、插 画家、作家与室内设计师，总可将自己独有的构思 注入每项创作当中。澳门卡尔拉格斐奢华酒店大楼 是他在 2019 年离开前的最后一个项目，空间如实 展现了这位设计大师超凡的创造力。

除了 271 间奢华客房与套房外，酒店大楼亦 提供两个摩登时尚的餐饮选择：大堂酒廊博览廊 (The Book Lounge) 和味赏 (Mesa by José Avillez)。 其中味赏是一间现代风格的葡萄牙餐厅，在料理

THE KARL LAGERFELD MACAU at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau hosts a celebrity-studded grand celebration.

The internationally renowned chef has brilliantly crafted an East-meetsWest menu of Portuguese flavors, manifesting tradition, authenticity, impeccable quality, and a modern farm-to-table philosophy.

Every dish on the menu, including a delectable range of petiscos quentes and entradas, takes inspiration from Portugal’s convivial dining culture and is designed to be shared. Signature dishes with a local twist from award-winning Chef Avillez include Tempura Cone with Tuna Tartare and Spicy Soya as well as Crispy Suckling Pig.

“Portuguese cuisine is constantly evolving with lifestyle choices and climate change,” says the chef. “Previously, our dishes were purely about preservation, but now we have the privilege to create so many unique flavor and texture combinations.”

Karl Lagerfeld’s interiors echo the menu’s East-West concept, bridging cultures in the restaurant’s contemporary design. Stylish Oriental patterns and touches, like traditional Chinese birdcage

中注入澳门当地风俗民情。享誉国际的葡萄牙名厨 José Avillez 开发出一份精湛的葡萄牙风味菜单，结

合了中西风情，体现传统、道地、无可比拟的品质， 以及「农场至餐桌」的现代哲学。

菜单上的每道菜，包括一系列可口美味的冷 盘与开胃前菜，都是从葡萄牙活泼欢乐的餐饮文化 中汲取灵感，是为了乐聚分享的菜肴。屡获殊荣的 José 推出展现当地特色的料理，包括金枪鱼脆筒配 辣酱油，以及脆皮乳猪。他表示：「葡萄牙美食随 着生活方式的选择与气候变化不断发展。以前，我 们的料理纯粹是为了保存食物，现在我们非常幸运， 可以创造出这么多独特的口感与风味组合。」

Karl Lagerfeld 的室内设计同样呼应了菜单的东

西方设计概念，餐厅的摩登装潢衔接不同地区的文 化风情。时髦的东方图样与点缀比比皆是，传统的

hanging lights, abound, and an LED replica recalls the skylight in the designer’s Paris studio. Every detail has been selected to provide the perfect backdrop for Chef Avillez’s imaginative cuisine.

As the chef behind Lisbon’s Belcanto, the first restaurant in Portugal to receive two Michelin stars, Avillez is passionate about bringing the food of his native land to the world. “Macau was once part of Portuguese territory,” he says, “and we still have a great relationship with each other. This strong connection was the biggest inspiration behind Mesa, and being here is very special.”

The restaurant has racked up awards across East Asia, including rankings on South China Morning Post’s list of 100 Top Tables and on the extended list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022. “When we talk about modern gastronomy,” says Avillez, “it’s not only about the food, it’s about the experience. In music, you need different notes to create a melody, and in cooking, it’s all about different textures and flavors.”

中式鸟笼吊灯就是最佳例证；餐厅大堂天花的 LED 屏幕则让人想起 Karl Lagerfeld 巴黎工作室的天窗。

每项装潢细节都是为了与主厨 José 极具想像力的丰

盛菜肴完美呼应。

身为里斯本 Belcanto 餐厅（葡萄牙首家获得

米其林二星的餐厅）的主厨，José 热衷于将葡式风 味推广到世界各地。他表示：「澳门曾是葡萄牙殖 民地，两地之间仍保有良好的连结。独特的关系成 为味赏的意念来源，成就非凡的葡萄牙美馔。」 味赏已在东亚地区夺得许多奖项，更跻身《南 华早报》2023 年《100 Top Tables》和 2022 年「亚 洲 50 最佳酒吧」延伸榜单当中。José 指出：「当我 们谈论崭新餐飨，谈的不仅是食物，更是体验。如 音乐中需要不同的音符来创造旋律；在烹饪中，我 们运用的则是多重口感与风味。」

← Mesa seafood rice 味赏海鲜饭

→ Green eggs in tempura with pickled onion 香草鸡蛋天妇罗配酸洋葱

Freshly harvested produce is a celebration of the seasons at The Manor.

新鲜的农作物体现了雅舍 对季节性食材的追求。

it starts

with tradition

BY NISSA CORNISH •

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Chef Michele Dell’Aquila of The Manor builds an exquisite new menu on an Italian legacy of sourcing, cooking, and eating sustainably.

“WHEN YOU COME TO MY RESTAURANT, you can be sure the food will be made from the best and most sustainable ingredients I can source,” says the executive sous chef of The Manor at The St. Regis Macao in discussing his latest Celebrate Sustainability menu.

“Where I’m from, in the south of Italy,” says Dell’Aquila, “we have always eaten ‘sustainably.’ I grew up with the concept, even though we didn’t use the word. We ate fresh produce, in season, grown on family land. Everyone has a different perspective of what sustainability means to them. For me, it starts with tradition. It’s a heritage passed down through many generations – it’s farming, it’s cooking, it’s understanding the ingredients. That’s where it starts, but then I add the modern touch.”

Where Chef Dell’Aquila goes beyond tradition, he does so

「宾客莅临我的餐厅，就知道我会尽我所能，找到 最上乘、最可持续的食材来烹饪料理。」澳门瑞吉 酒店雅舍的行政助理总厨 Michele Dell’Aquila 介绍 最新开发的「臻享可持续之味」菜单时如此表示。

Michele 说：「在我的家乡－意大利南部，我 们的饮食已是以『可持续』为原则。虽然以前还 没有人强调『可持续』这个说法，但我确切是在 这个概念中成长的。我们食用来自家族农场、当 季的新鲜食材。大家对于可持续的概念都有不同 理解，而对我来说，可持续的始点就是传统。这 是过往世代传承下来的智慧与实践，是耕作、烹饪， 更是对食材的理解。这是实践可持续的起点，我 继而把现代元素加入其中。」

ZEN-NOH MIYAZAKI

A5 WAGYU

日本全农宫崎

A5 和牛

Grilled over Japanese charcoal to subtly enhance its rich flavor, lavishly marbled Miyazaki Wagyu beef is complemented by roasted and puréed organic vegetables from small-scale French producers.

带有优美大理石花纹的宫崎和牛用日

本备长炭烤过，提升了风味层次，搭 配的烤蔬菜和蔬菜泥则选用来自法 国小规模生产商的有机蔬菜制成。

purposefully and to exceptional result. “I always think to myself, how can we give the guest a feeling of delight?” At The Manor, this translates to a unique and personalized dining experience, incorporating products from the foremost suppliers across Japan, France, and, of course, Italy.

Dell’Aquila remains committed to importing ingredients that are not only of the finest quality but are also obtained from responsible suppliers who respect land and sea. The new menu’s diversity of ingredients is stunning, from French Geay oysters that take up to five years to produce, to  senryo eggplants from Japan’s Okayama Prefecture, to sustainably grown rice from Italy’s Riserva San Massimo nature reserve.

With such a global method of sourcing, how does a chef create

Michele 不拘泥于传统，清楚内心的方向， 也因此缔造无与伦比的成果。「我常常思考，怎样 才能给宾客带来愉悦的感受和体验？」为了达成 这个目标，雅舍提供独一无二、个性化的用餐体验， 将来自日本、法国及意大利等重要供应商的食材 纳入菜单。

Michele 一直致力于进口各国食材，这些食

材不仅品质优异，而且是来自尊重土地与海洋的 环保供应商。新菜单上包括多种多样的食材，如 法国 Geay 生蚝（需时五年才能收成）、日本冈山 县著名的千两茄子，以及在意大利 Riserva San Massimo 自然保护区有机种植的大米。

食材皆来自全球各地，主厨又该如何在六道

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

Executive Sous Chef Michele Dell’Aquila 行政助理总厨 Michele Dell’Aquila

harmony on the plate and across six courses? Dell’Aquila’s approach is straightforward: “I let the food speak for itself. Seasonal ingredients, nothing overcomplicated – but playing with the flavors and senses.”

This elegant philosophy is deceptive in its simplicity. Developing a successful menu each season using top-quality, sustainable ingredients from around the world is a labor of love that requires time. “The whole process takes at least two to three months from concept to creation,” says Dell’Aquila. “For every ten ingredients we want to source, we draft a list of twenty options, then refine and reduce it based on factors such as what is available, when is it in season and for how long, and then, ‘ah! but this other item isn’t available at the same time,’ so we must change the first item to go with this other one we found, and so on. It’s a long process, and I think many people don’t realize how much work happens before we even do the first tasting. But my guests come back again and again. They ask when they will be able to try my new menus and new dishes, and it’s because they understand what I am offering.”

The Celebrate Sustainability menu’s wine pairings, selected by The St. Regis sommelier David Duan, are as carefully thought

菜之间创造和谐的味觉体验？ Michele 的方法很简 单：「让每项食材突显其原始风味 – – 我只运用当季食

材，不过度烹饪或调味，但在感官与风味上注入新的 元素。」

端上桌的料理看似简单，其中其实蕴含相当优 雅深厚的哲学。使用来自世界各地优质、可持续的食 材，并在每个季节开发出受欢迎的菜单，这是一项需 要投入时间的大工程。Michele 表示：「从概念发想

到创作，整个过程需要两到三个月。针对每十种我们

想采购的食材，便要拟定一份列有二十种选项的清单， 根据是否可取得、是否当季、产期有多长等因素来删 减。有时，当我们发现某些搭配的食材无法取得时， 即要更换已选定的食材品项，以配合后来找到的另一 项食材。这段过程着实漫长，很多宾客未必晓得，我 们在第一次试菜前，就已投放了多少功夫。因此，一 些老顾客总会问何时可品尝到新菜式，因为他们了解 我背后的准备。」

「臻享可持续之味」菜单搭配的葡萄酒单是由侍 酒师段立山（David）所挑选，每支酒都跟料理一样

经过精挑细选最后脱颖而出。他说：「食物与葡萄酒 的搭配就像婚姻，这是非常个人的选择，每个人都有

Chef Dell’Aquila insists on the world’s finest sustainably sourced seafood. Michele坚持选用可持续的优质海鲜食材。

LES VIVIERS DE NOIRMOUTIER

MEDITERRANEAN RED MULLET

法国 LES VIVIERS DE NOIRMOUTIER 地中海红鲻鱼

Firm-fleshed red mullet, sustainably sourced from France’s Noirmoutier Island, is served atop risotto made with rice grown in Italy’s incredibly fertile San Massimo nature reserve. The dish is finished with a hint of fragrant yuzu. 这道菜选用的红鲻鱼来自法国努瓦尔穆捷岛，以可持续方式捕捞，肉质紧实，再配以 意大利圣马西莫自然保护区种植的大米制成的烩饭，尾韵带有一丝柚子芳香。

5DO CINQ DEGRÉS OUEST BRITTANY LOBSTER

5DO CINQ DEGRÉS OUEST 布列塔尼龙虾

Gently poached to showcase its delicate flavor, Cinq Degrés Ouest lobster from Brittany is served in a light fish broth with sweet pickled radishes and sustainably harvested seaweed.

Cinq Degrés Ouest龙虾经过轻灼，更能展现其精致细腻的味道， 搭配鱼汤、甜萝卜和可持续捞获的海藻，清新且有着海洋风味。

法国

来自布列塔尼的

PEACH AND MARIUS AUDA FLOWERS

蜜桃及法国 MARIUS AUDA 农场食用花

Dessert incorporates summer-fresh peaches and a touch of organic French honey into a stunning mousse centerpiece, garnished with Marius Auda flowers and finished with the aroma of The St. Regis signature-blend tea.

造型悅目的甜点以夏季新鲜的桃子為主角，在幼滑芬芳的慕斯中添加一点有机法国蜂蜜， 饰以Marius Auda食用花，并带有瑞吉酒店特色茗茶的悠悠茶香。

out as the dishes. “Pairing food and wine is like marriage,” he says. “It’s very personal, and everyone has different preferences. You can’t assume what works for one person works for everyone. In collaborating with Chef Michele, we’re also a bit like husband and wife. I ask him for his input before I make any recommendation. We have to communicate and work closely to create the perfect experience for our guests.” It goes without saying that all of the wines for this menu, both old- and newworld, come from sustainable, organic, or biodynamic vineyards.

The philosophy that defines the new menu also informs The Manor’s sourcing and kitchen operations. “You can’t present a sustainable menu and then have nothing else about the restaurant that’s sustainable,” says Dell’Aquila. “Our other signature menus may not be promoted as sustainable, but we take the same approach, and the same ethos is behind everything we do.

“Almost every product in the kitchen can have a second life – we always want to put the best part on the plate, but we try not to waste the rest. For instance, we might produce a fish stock, or purées and sauces, from the less beautiful parts of a vegetable that are still full of flavor. It means extra work, but it reduces waste in the kitchen and enhances our dishes.”

不同偏好。我们不能假设每个人喜欢的酒都一 样。与 Michele 合作时，我们也有点像夫妻。

在我推荐每一支葡萄酒之前，我都会征求他的 意见。我们必须沟通、密切合作，替宾客创造 完美的体验。」配搭的葡萄酒，包括旧世界与新 世界的酒款，全都选用可持续发展、有机或践 行生物动力法的葡萄酒庄。

主导新菜单的理念也体现在雅舍的采购准 则与厨房运作。Michele 表示：「我们不可能单 纯推出可持续菜单，但是餐厅里其他料理却不 符合可持续概念。我们的其他招牌菜未必以可 持续来引括，但我们也以同样理念来实践制作。 餐厅的一切运作都秉持相同的精神。」 「厨房里的每项食材几乎都能拥有重生的机 会。我们把最好的部分端上餐盘里，同时不浪费 其余部分。例如我们会用食材及蔬菜中没那么漂 亮的部分制作鱼汤、蓉泥或酱汁，这些部分依然 充满风味。虽然更费工耗时，却能减少厨房浪费， 也让我们的菜式风味得以提升。」

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

norway’s ocean treasures

A spectacular array of premium-quality Norwegian shellfish is now available in Hong Kong.

norway’s Arctic Circle region is an unforgiving place. Terrain is often rugged and barren, winds are wild, and thrashing seas plunge to glacial temperatures. No paradise by human standards, these northern reaches are surrounded by waters that provide exactly the conditions that shellfish need to thrive.

It’s just one of the many places in Norway where top-quality seafood abounds. The country’s crisp and crystal-clear waters, along the world’s second longest coastline, not only teem with the nation’s most famous catch, cod, but are also home to a broad range of shellfish, including king crabs, scallops, cold-water prawns, blue mussels, brown crabs, and more. Complementing the favorable natural conditions is Norway’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices, ensuring that for generations to come all of its marine creatures are able to grow slowly and safely to reach the highest standards of quality.

挪威的北极地区是地理环境极端凛冽的所在。当 地地势崎岖不平、狂风大作、惊涛骇浪，水温低 至冰川温度。对人类来说，这里绝非天堂；但对 贝类而言，这里却有着完美的生长环境。

BY DOROTHY SO •

挪威有许多地区出产优质海产，北极地区只 是其中之一。清澈的海水、世界第二长的海岸线， 让挪威盛产的海鲜不仅有三文鱼和鳕鱼，还有各 式各样的虾蟹贝类，例如红帝王蟹、大扇贝、北 极甜虾、蓝贻贝、棕蟹等。除了极具优势的天然 环境，挪威也致力推行可持续渔业捕捞手法，确 保世世代代的海洋生物都能缓慢、 安全地生长，达到海产渔获的最高 品质标准。

“Respecting nature is the Nordic mentality and lifestyle,” says Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa of Ocean Table. This is especially so in Norway, he says, where there is a long and proud fishing tradition. Those in the seafood community treat their work as a vocation, and their dedication is reflected in the care that goes into the way products are harvested, handled, and exported. Such experience and effort are what make it possible for the treasures from Nordic waters to travel the more than eight thousand kilometers to Hong Kong, alive and in perfect condition.

The availability of fresh and live seafood from Norway is especially meaningful to Sorsa. Since leaving Scandinavia in 1996, the Finnish native has embarked on a culinary career that has taken him all over the world, including to the Fiji Islands and Bermuda. In 2004, he settled in Hong Kong to open the city’s first Nordic restaurant, FINDS, where he introduced Scandinavian ingredients and flavors to Asian diners. “Having used seafood from almost all parts of the world,” he says, “I find that working with Norwegian products feels like a homecoming.”

Chefs like Mori Tomoaki of acclaimed Sushi Mori Tomoaki restaurant in Shau Kei Wan have discovered that the high quality of Norwegian seafood makes it ideal not just for Nordic preparations but for any type of cuisine. Although he had never before worked with Scandinavian shellfish, Tomoaki relished the opportunity to incorporate it into his dishes. “Japanese cuisine is about minimalism,” he says. “It’s about not adding too much, so the raw ingredients are crucial.”

Ocean Table 的行政主厨 Jaakko Sorsa 表示：「尊重自然是 北欧人的心态与生活方式。」他说 这点在挪威更是显而易见，因为挪威有历史悠久、 令人引以为傲的捕鱼传统。海鲜捕捞业的人都将 自己的工作当成一种使命，而他们的奉献精神也 反映在他们捕捞、处理，和出口渔获的细心严谨 操作上。这样的经验与努力，使来自北欧海域的 海鲜珍品得以跨越八千多公里的距离，活蹦乱跳 地来到香港。

挪威直送的新鲜活体海鲜对 Jaakko 而言特 别有意义。这位来自芬兰的主厨在 1996 年离开 斯堪的纳维亚半岛后，就展开了自己的烹饪生涯， 足迹至今遍布世界各地，包括斐济群岛和百慕大。

2004 年，他在香港定居，开设了香港第一家北 欧餐厅 FINDS，透过这个据点向亚洲食客介绍斯 堪的纳维亚的食材与口味。他说：「使用过来自 世界各地的海鲜后，用挪威海产入馔让我有种回 到家乡的感觉。」

位于筲箕湾的著名寿司餐厅 Sushi Mori Tomoaki 的主厨森智昭（Mori Tomoaki）也发现， 挪威海产的品质之高，不仅能用来烹饪北欧菜， 也能用在各种类型的料理当中。虽然他从未使用 过斯堪的纳维亚的贝类，但很开心终于有机会在 自己的料理中运用这些食材。他说：「日本料理 的精神是极简，重点是不要添加太多东西，所以 食材本身就更重要。」

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Given the pristine and bracingly cold waters it grows in, Norwegian seafood is often compared to that found in Hokkaido. But, says Tomoaki, differences in local factors like currents, harvesting methods, and the diets of marine creatures give Nordic varieties qualities distinct from their Japanese counterparts. And for chefs and diners who have never tried Norway’s shellfish, native species like langoustines and flat oysters can prove to be especially delicious discoveries.

Although the pandemic adversely affected Norwegian shellfish exports, demand has returned in full force, especially at fine-dining restaurants around the world. And with the Norwegian Seafood Council’s efforts to make the country’s shellfish more readily available across Asia, Sorsa is eager to showcase the bounties of Nordic seas to discerning diners on this side of the globe. “The quality is so good,” he says, “because these resources are really taken care of by the fishermen and suppliers at every step in the process.”

由于挪威海产生长在纯净而寒冷的水域， 民众经常将挪威海产与北海道海产相互比较。 但森智昭表示由于地区因素的差异，比方说海 流、捕捞方式及海产摄取的生物，让来自北欧 与日本的同类海鲜有所不同。对于从未品尝过 挪威虾蟹贝类的厨师和宾客而言，海螯虾和扁 牡蛎绝对是美味的惊奇新体验。

虽然疫情对挪威的贝类出口造成负面影 响，但需求已全面恢复，世界各地的高级餐厅 都希望一尝挪威海产。挪威海产局致力让挪 威的虾蟹贝类在亚洲更普及，Jaakko 也渴望 向地球另一端的饕客展示北欧海洋的丰饶。他 说：「北欧海产的品质极好，因为在加工处理 的每个环节，这些海洋资源都受到渔民和供应 商的细心呵护。」

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL

King scallop 大扇贝

Mori Tomoaki 森智昭

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL

Jaakko Sorsa

red king crabs

红帝王蟹

despite the fact that it is not native to Norwegian waters, the red king crab has thrived in the Barents Sea. These prized crustaceans are harvested by small fishing vessels that set off from the coast of Finnmark and travel up to a point that Sorsa describes as “so far north, it’s funny.” Once caught, the crabs travel like royalty in live tanks and sometimes await their flights abroad in “crab hotels.” Whether their final destination is Paris or Hong Kong, they arrive live, ensuring that their meat remains sweet and succulent. Thanks to the pristine conditions they grow in, Norwegian red king crabs have a clean, ocean-fresh flavor. “They really don’t need any seasoning,” says Sorsa. “They taste great, even simply boiled and eaten from the pot.”

To highlight the natural juiciness of red king crab, Sorsa steams it at 80°C until the meat comes off the claw but is still halfway between cooked and raw in the center. “It’s important that it’s 80°,” he says, “because 100° would be boiling. The crab could probably handle it, but it’s unnecessary.” The chef then seals the meat in vacuum bags and heats it up to a gentle 51°C for service. Because the crab contains very little fat, Sorsa layers in textural contrast with accompaniments on the creamy side, including three variations of pumpkin – roasted, puréed, and cubed – and smoked crème fraiche. The dish is finished with trout roe and a drizzle of king crab oil to enhance its sea flavor.

虽然红帝王蟹不是挪威水域的原生品种，但这 个物种如今已在巴伦支海茁壮成长。这种珍贵 的甲壳类生物是由小型渔船捕捞。渔船从芬马 克海岸出发，来到 Jaakko 口中「极度遥远的北 方，一个很特别的地方」。捕捞上船后，红帝 王蟹会受到皇室成员般的对待，通常会被装在 船上的活体桶中，然后等待航班出发。无论目 的地是巴黎还是香港，红帝王蟹都维持着活体 状态，肉质才会甜美多汁。由于挪威红帝王蟹 生长在纯净的环境中，因此能够展现纯净新鲜 的海洋风味。Jaakko 表示：「这种红帝王蟹的 肉真的不需要任何调味。它的风味绝美，煮熟 之后直接入口也鲜味满满。」

为了突显红帝王蟹本身鲜美多汁的肉质， Jaakko 以 80°C 的温度将红帝王蟹蒸熟，直到 肉从蟹钳上脱落，但肉的中间仍介于半熟状态。 他说：「80°C 是关键，因为水在 100° 就沸腾 了，红帝王蟹或许能够承受，但却没有必要。」

然后他将蟹肉密封在真空袋中，将其加热到温 和的 51°C 备用。由于蟹肉的油脂极少，Jaakko 用口感较绵密细滑的佐料来营造出鲜明的反 差，包括经烘烤、捣碎和切块三种型态的南瓜， 以及熏制的酸奶油。最后，Jaakko 用鳟鱼子和

一滴红帝王蟹油来加强这道菜的海洋鲜味。

norway lobsters

arvesting of Norway lobsters is accomplished with traps sunk along the coast north to the Lofoten Islands as well as in the North Sea and the strait of Skagerrak. Using such traps, one of the least invasive methods of harvesting seafood, protects the seabed and puts less stress on the shellfish, which in turn yields a tastier catch. Live Norway lobsters have a refreshingly sweet flavor and a firm, creamy texture that make them ideal for a plethora of preparations, from sashimi to sautés.

“The best way to cook Norwegian seafood,” laughs Sorsa, “is almost not to cook it.” This is especially true for Norway lobsters, which the chef dips very briefly in hot water so that the meat just comes off the shell and is lightly cooked on the surface while remaining raw inside. The heft and creaminess of this long-clawed crustacean makes it especially good for marrying with rich and sumptuous flavors. Sorsa plates it with sea-urchin-and-blacktruffle hollandaise and in-season Landes white asparagus to create a dish that expresses the essence of classic French cuisine.

渔民通常会在罗弗敦群岛以北的海 岸线及北海和斯卡格拉克海峡，将 诱捕器从海面上投入，以捕捞挪威 海螯虾。运用这种诱捕器来捕捞海 鲜是最不具侵略性的方式，可以保 护海床、减少对贝类造成的压力， 从而获得更鲜美的海洋生物。来自 挪威的活体海螯虾带有清爽的甜味 以及扎实、入口即化的肉质，不管 是用做刺身还是热炒，各式各样的 料理都能选用这项食材。

Jaakko 笑言：「烹调挪威海鲜 的最佳方式就是不去烹煮。」这个说 法尤其适用于挪威海螯虾。主厨将 海螯虾在热水中简单浸泡，让肉轻 轻脱壳，表面熟透但内部依然是生 的。这种长爪甲壳类动物的饱满、 细嫩肉质，特别适合与繁复的风味 结合。Jaakko 将其搭配海胆黑松露 荷兰酱与当季朗德白芦笋，创造出 一道体现法国美食精髓的菜肴。

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL

veryone in Hong Kong has tried Hokkaido scallops, but those from Norway are even sweeter,” Sorsa says. He attributes their delicious flavor and firm, meaty texture to year-round cold waters, where the mollusks grow slowly and have ample time to develop toned muscle tissue. The fact that they are wild and handpicked by divers, one of the most ecologically friendly means of harvesting seafood, adds another distinction.

“One of my favorite combinations is scallops and Jerusalem artichoke,” says Sorsa. He roasts the root vegetable with cream and salt until it is caramelized and then places a pan-fried scallop on top and serves it with a beurre blanc made with three different types of fish roe. The chef reveals that the secret to this simple and elegant dish is in the scallop’s seasoning – a fine powder made by dehydrating the corals found in its shell. “It’s scallop seasoned with scallop. It’s so umami-flavored that it doesn’t even need salt and pepper.”

Jaakko 表示：「大家都尝过北海道扇贝，但挪威大扇贝更鲜甜。」他认为挪威大扇贝之所以美味、肉质结实， 都是因为当地水域全年寒冷，因此软体动物生长缓慢，有充足的时间来生长结实的肌肉组织。这些野生 大扇贝均是由潜水员手工采摘，这也是对生态最友善的捕捞方式，同时也是与北海道扇贝的另一个区别。 Jaakko 指出：「我个人最爱的组合是大扇贝搭配耶路撒冷雅枝竹。」他用奶油与盐烘烤雅枝竹这种根 茎类蔬菜，直到表面呈现焦糖色，然后在上面摆放一颗煎过的大扇贝，再用三种不同类型的鱼子烹煮成 的白奶油酱汁来调味。主厨透露，这道简单且优雅的料理秘密在于调味料，那是一种将扇贝壳中的结晶 物脱水后制成的细粉。「这是用扇贝调味的扇贝，味道极为鲜美，甚至不需要添加盐和胡椒粉。」

king scallops 大扇贝

just like their much bigger king crab cousins, snow crabs are an invasive species that have established their reign in Norway. In fact, with their rounded carapace and long shapely legs, these elegant creatures are often referred to as queen crabs. They are ruthless rulers, however, because they’ll snatch and devour anything they come across on the seafloor. Their all-natural diet coupled with the perfect conditions of their icy realm give snow crabs a beautifully sweet sea-spray flavor.

Chef Tomoaki makes the most of this delicacy in his delectable Norway Roll. “As a sushi chef,” he says, “I wanted to make a maki that incorporated several shellfish items.” The recipe, reading like a smorgasbord of the Nordic seas, starts with the firm flesh of snow crab, which the chef cooks with the crab’s roe and tomally to create a savory sauce. The roll also includes deep-fried king scallops, red king crab, and langoustines that have been cured in kombu and mixed with a few drops of oil made from the crustaceans’ shells. As a decadent finishing touch, the cut roll is topped with uni to add sweetness and an extra splash of color.

snow crabs

雪蟹与品种相近的红帝王蟹一样是外来物种，如 今已在挪威稳健扎根。外表优雅的雪蟹有着圆润 的外壳和修长的蟹脚，常被称为女王蟹。但它们 同时也是无情的统治者，会抢夺和吞噬所有他们 在海底遇到的生物。全天然的饮食加上冰雪王国 的绝佳地理环境，让来自挪威的雪蟹展现细致鲜 甜的海洋风味。

主厨森智昭在美味的挪威卷中完美运用鲜 美的雪蟹。他说：「作为一位寿司厨师，我想做出 一款包括几种虾蟹贝类的寿司卷。」这道寿司卷如 同呈现了北欧的壮阔海洋，主厨将坚实的雪蟹肉 与蟹籽和番茄一起烹煮成鲜味满满的酱汁。除了 雪蟹，寿司卷中还有用昆布腌渍后油炸的挪威大 扇贝、帝王蟹和海螯虾，并混合几滴从甲壳类动 物的壳当中萃取出来的油。作为奢华的最后点缀， 切好的寿司卷上还摆放海胆，再度增添鲜甜风味 以及抢眼明亮的色彩。

many Hong Kong diners have enjoyed Japanese sea urchins, but the spiny creatures can also be found in Norway. In fact, their rapid proliferation has had a devastating impact on kelp forests along the coastal seabed, making it an environmentally responsible act to harvest and eat as many as possible! The task is made even more appealing by the fact that Norwegian sea urchins provide irresistibly delicious uni. Cracked open, their globular shells brim with the prized orange-hued innards that taste of the ocean depths.

To highlight the uni’s natural savor, Tomoaki reduces it with dashi and mirin to create an umami-packed sauce. The dish also features uni that’s been cooked to enhance its sweet and velvety dimensions. Tomoaki serves the two preparations with seasonal bamboo shoots and kinome leaves as a poetic celebration of the bounties of both sea and soil.

许多香港食客都喜欢吃日本海胆，但这种带刺的生物在挪威也可以找到。事实上，迅速扩张 的海胆已对沿海海底的生态环境造成破坏，因此大量采收和食用海胆其实是对环境有益的行 为。挪威海胆非常鲜美，令人难以抗拒，这也让采收、食用海胆这项任务更加吸引。敲开圆 球状的外壳，里头装满珍贵的橘色内脏，满溢着海洋深处的鲜味。

为了突显海胆的天然风味，森智昭用日式高汤和味醂来还原挪威海胆的鲜甜，创造出鲜 味满溢的酱汁。这道菜也很好地展现了海胆经过烹饪后，所增加的鲜甜与丝绒般滑顺的口感。

森智昭将这两道菜与季节性的竹笋与山椒叶共同承盘，以极具诗意的方式向来自海洋与大地 的食材致敬。

flat oysters and cupped oysters

扁牡蛎与长牡蛎

norway produces two main species of oysters. The flat oyster, indigenous to European waters, has a sweet and creamy flavor that has made it a sought-after delicacy for centuries. In the 1960s, as stocks of this European mollusk started to dwindle along the Norwegian coasts, the Pacific cupped oyster was introduced from Asia as an alternative. Flat oyster stocks have since been restored to healthy levels and continue to be regulated by various authorities to ensure that they remain sustainable in the long run. At the same time, the Pacific oyster has flourished into an abundant resource in Norwegian waters. They are handpicked by divers all year round to prevent damage to local species. Saline like the sea and ripe for commercial production, these mollusks are delights to devour in quantity.

Chef Tomoaki prepares the two oyster species in different ways. “In Japanese cuisine,” he says, “we really try to highlight the natural characteristics of an ingredient.” To do that, he smokes European flat oysters with apple wood, which enhances the mollusk’s creaminess and unique minerality. For the Pacific cupped oyster, he prepares a tart ponzu sauce and an umami stock made from kombu to balance and brighten the bivalve’s pronounced brininess.

挪威主要可以找到两种牡蛎：扁牡蛎及长牡蛎。扁牡蛎原产于欧洲水域， 具有甜美的奶油风味，几世纪以来一直是受人追捧的美味食材。1960 年代， 由于这种欧洲软体动物的产量开始在挪威海岸减少，民众从亚洲引进长牡 蛎作为替代品。后来，扁牡蛎的种群及数量已恢复到健康水平，并持续受 到主管单位的追踪监管，确保这种品种的牡蛎能够长远存续。与此同时， 长牡蛎也在挪威水域蓬勃生长，成为一种丰富的海产资源。多年来，牡蛎 都是由潜水员手工采摘，以免对当地物种构成损害。如大海般的味道和可 规模化的供应，让挪威的牡蛎成为能够大快朵颐的绝佳美味。

主厨森智昭以不同方式料理这两种牡蛎。他说：「在日本料理中，我们 努力保留和展现食材的原始特征。」为了做到这点，他用苹果木熏烤扁牡蛎， 突显出扁牡蛎的奶油风味与独一无二的矿物香气。此外，他准备了酸口的 柚子酱汁和昆布制成的鲜味高汤，来中和并提亮长牡蛎的鲜明咸味。

Good seed makes a good crop for California sunflower growers a

place in the sun

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

STANDING IN THE MIDDLE OF A SUNFLOWER FIELD just after daybreak, one can’t help but be cheered by the surrounding sight. Young sunflowers famously track the daily movement of the sun across the sky, but when they reach maturity, the faces remain locked eastward to greet the morning sun. Dazzling yellow and gold at full bloom, sunflowers radiate equal amounts of joy and energy. They have inspired humankind across time and space, from the early indigenous tribes in North America, who began cultivating them as early as 1000 BCE, to the 1983 Space Shuttle Columbia astronauts, who transported their seeds into space to observe their growth in weightless conditions.

Native to North America, sunflowers can now be found on all six of the world’s populated continents, where they are commercially grown and harvested for purposes of oil extraction, edible consumption, and decoration.

Some growers, like Andreotti Family Farms in Half Moon Bay, California, raise the bright and lively flowers for “U-pick” promotions and farm-to-table dining in the fields to draw in agritourism. But in the Sacramento Valley of Northern California, the production of certified hybrid seeds sold for commercial planting reigns supreme. “The seeds grown here,” says Ethan Driver, a sixth-generation farmer from Knights Landing in Yolo County, “are considered the Cadillacs of sunflower seeds. They’re the highest quality in the world. The soil is good, but it’s the climate that really is the key.”

With a Mediterranean climate that features winter rainfall followed by long summers of clear blue skies and endless golden sunshine, the Sacramento Valley provides ideal growing conditions for sunflowers. The hot, dry summer weather stymies the fungal diseases that afflict the crop. Known pests in the area are generally manageable, and, equally important, the warmer days and cooler nights foster industrious bee foraging activity for better pollination.

To produce hybrid seeds, farmers like Ethan control the crosspollination between male-fertile lines (the pollen-producing parent lines referred to as “male”) and male-sterile lines (the pollen-free parent lines commonly called “female”) by planting them together in the same field, usually in patterns of six, eight, or ten female rows for every two male rows. The actual ratio depends on how prodigious the pollen production is in the males (male lines often produce multiple flower heads for maximum pollen production) and how attractive the females’ nectar is to the bees. Because the two lines won’t necessarily develop at the same rate, timing of the respective plantings is critical to achieve “a good nick,” the simultaneous blooming of the males and females.

天刚亮，站在向日葵花田中央，周遭的盛景在熹微 的晨光映照下，令人不禁赞叹。大家都知道正值成 长期的向日葵每天都会随着太阳在空中的轨迹移动， 但当向日葵成熟时，花朵则会固定面向东方，以迎 接早晨的太阳。向日葵盛开时花瓣呈现耀眼的金黄 色，散发无比欢乐与能量。无论何时何地，向日葵 总是激励着人们。早在西元前一千年，北美早期原 住民部落就开始种植向日葵。到了 1983 年，哥伦比 亚号航天飞机的航天员更将向日葵种子带到外太空， 观察它们在无重力环境下的生长模式。 向日葵原产于北美洲，而如今在世界六大洲上 都可看到它的踪影。向日葵被商业化培植，目的是 为了萃取葵花籽油、食用及作为装饰。 为了推动农业旅游的推广活动，不少种植者专 门种植明亮鲜活的向日葵，响应参与「U-pick」活 动或产地直送餐饮等活动，加州半月湾的 Andreotti 家族农场就是一例。 不过在北加州的萨克拉曼多谷，为商业种植研 发出的认证混种种子位居产量之冠。来自约洛县奈 茨兰丁的第六代农民 Ethan Driver 表示：「这里种植

的种子被誉为葵花籽界的凯迪拉克，品质居全世界 之冠。这里的土壤条件良好，但气候才是真正关键。」

萨克拉曼多谷属于地中海气候，冬季降雨多， 夏季的时间相当长，每到夏天就是一望无际的晴朗 蓝天与无尽的金色阳光，是非常适合向日葵生长的 环境。干燥炎热的夏季气候，让干扰作物生长的真 菌性传染病无法蔓延。该地区大多已知的害虫已在 种植者的掌控之中。当地温暖的白天与相对凉爽的 夜晚更是有助于向日葵生长的重要因素，这种气候

促使辛勤的蜜蜂四处觅食，让授粉的效果更好。 为了生产混种种子，农夫们如 Ethan 会规划种 植，控制可育的雄株（产生花粉的亲株为「雄性」） 与不育雄株（没有花粉的亲株通常被称为「雌性」） 之间的异株授粉。农民的做法是将这两种亲株种植 在同一块田里，两排雄性花朵之间通常会间隔六、 八或十排雌性花朵。实际比例取决于雄株的花粉产 量有多大（雄株通常会生出数个花头，来产出最大 量的花粉），以及雌株的花蜜对蜜蜂的吸引力。因为 这两种花株的成长速度未必相同，如果要让授粉发 挥最大成效，农夫必须巧妙拿捏这两种花株的种植 时间：雌株与雄株必须同时开花。

California’s Sacramento Valley offers ideal growing conditions. 加州萨克拉曼多谷的气候非常适合向日葵生长。

SINCE SUNFLOWERS are almost entirely reliant on insects for pollination, honey bees are brought in to do their good work once the males begin to flower. The face of each flower head consists of thousands of tightly packed florets that begin opening from the periphery to the center over the course of five to ten days. Each floret must be individually fertilized by pollen in order to produce a seed with a nutrient-andenergy-rich kernel inside. If a bee fails to touch a floret, the hull will remain empty.

To cover his seventy-five-acre field, Ethan has brought in well over one hundred apiaries to provide at least one beehive for every acre and a quarter of sunflowers. During the bloom period of two to three weeks, the worker bees bumble around the field in search of nectar and pollen. When foraging against male flower heads, their bodies become covered with pollen. In their activity around the field, they cross sunflower rows, and excess pollen fortuitously brushes onto the stigmas of florets on female flower heads, initiating cross-fertilization.

While the field is still buzzing with activity, a stroll through the female rows confirms that flowering is nearing completion and the seeds are essentially set. The petal-like, yellow ray flowers have wilted and the heads are beginning to droop from the weight of the developing seeds. Ethan expects to remove the bees from the fields over the weekend and then chop down the male rows to prevent contamination with this year’s hybrid seeds and also to reduce the growth of volunteers that might accidentally risk cross-pollination with future nearby crops.

由于向日葵几乎完全仰赖昆虫授粉，一旦雄株 开始开花，蜜蜂就会被请来进行神圣的授粉任 务。每个花头的表面由数千个紧密排列的小花 组成，这些小花会在五到十天的时间内开始由 外向内开放。每朵小花都必须经过授粉才能产 生一颗种子，这颗种子里蕴藏一颗富含养份与 能量的核。如果蜜蜂没有接触到小花，花壳就 会是中空的。

为了完整覆盖他达七十五英亩的田地， Ethan 引进了一百多个蜂房，让每一点二五英亩 的向日葵田能分配到至少一个蜂房。在两到三 周的开花期，工蜂在花田里四处飞舞、寻找花 蜜与花粉。蜜蜂靠在雄株花头上觅食时，身上 会沾染花粉。在田间活动的过程中，它们穿越 一排排的向日葵，偶然地将多余的花粉刷到雌 株花头的小花柱头上，开始进行交叉授粉。

蜜蜂一旁在向日葵花海中嗡嗡飞舞，我们 穿梭在向日葵之间，会发现雌株开花期已近尾 声，种子基本上也结成了。黄色边花已经枯萎， 花头因为发育中的种子重量而开始下垂。Ethan 预计在周末将蜜蜂从田里请走，然后将雄株砍 掉，来防止污染今年的混种种子，同时避免像 向日葵这种自生植物，未来有可能意外跟邻近 的作物交叉授粉。

TWENTY-FIVE MILES TO THE NORTH in Colusa County, and about two months further along in the process, Jake Driver’s sunflower fields stand in stark contrast to his cousin Ethan’s. Withered stalks and dried leaves rustle in the wind and crackle underfoot, but the bleak appearance belies the treasure embedded within the downturned and desiccated flower heads. With a moisture content level measuring between 6 and 8 percent, the seeds are fully ripened, well dried, and ready for harvest.

Jake drives a combine harvester down the rows, constantly adjusting the height of the header platform to take in the heads with as little of the stalk as possible. The intact heads are fed into a threshing drum where rasp bars separate the seeds from the heads. Loose seeds are delivered up the hopper at the top of the machine, while the leftover plant material is spit back onto the field.

After cleaning and grading, the hybrid seeds will primarily be sold and shipped domestically to the Dakotas in the US and internationally to Russia and Ukraine, where over fifty million acres of sunflowers are grown and processed for sunflower oil.

Jake Driver 的向日葵田在往北

二十五英里的科卢萨县，在这段约 两个月的过程中，他的花田与表弟 Ethan 的向日葵田形成强烈对比。 枯萎的花茎与干枯的叶子在风中沙 沙作响，脚踩地面的枯叶时会发出 啪啦的声响，荒凉的表象下，低垂 干燥的花头中却蕴藏丰富的财富。 种子已经完全成熟，含水量在百分 之六到八之间，在充分干燥的状态 下已可采收。

Jake 驾驶着收割机在成排的向 日葵花田间穿梭，不断调整收割头 的高度，尽可能只将花头收割下来、 不要动到花茎。完整的花头被送进

脱籽滚筒后，滚筒中的脱籽杆会将 葵花籽从花头刮下来。粒粒葵花籽 会被送进机器顶端的料斗，剩余部 分则会被放回田地中。

经过清洗与分级，这些混种 种子会被送到国内外的不同地点贩 售，美国国内主要为达科他州，海 外则以俄罗斯和乌克兰为主。当地 总共有超过五千万英亩的向日葵田

地，而葵花籽也会在当地被加工成 葵花籽油。

Dried seeds are ready for harvest. 干燥的花头中藏着可收成的种子。

The thresher separates seeds from heads. 脱籽滚筒会将葵花籽从花头刮下来。

“ANYONE WHO KNOWS ME will tell you I can’t go one week without a bag of dry-roasted sunflower seeds in the shell,” says Abigale Jacobsen, who recently served as state president of the California FFA, a school-based agricultural education program. She joined in high school and says “it was my teachers who made me believe I was capable of being a successful competitor, public speaker, leader, and agriculturist in FFA .” Her term as president was largely spent on the road “connecting with students, industry leaders, government officials, and future agriculturists across our state.” Her plans? “This fall, I will be pursuing my BS in animal science at Chico State, and ultimately I intend to earn a doctorate of veterinary medicine and pursue a career as a large-animal veterinarian in Northern California.”

Abigale Jacobsen 在高中时加入美国加州 FFA（一个培养 农业专业人才的教育机构），现担任州主席。她说道：「任 何认识我的人都知道，我离不开带壳的干烤葵花籽。我的 老师让我相信我有能力，可以成为 FFA 中的成功的参与者、 演讲者、领导者和农业家。」她任期中的主要职责为与全州 的学生、行业领袖、政府官员和未来的农业家建立联系。 当问及她对未来的计划，她表示：「今年秋天，我将在奇 科州立大学攻读动物科学学士学位，我希望之后能获得兽 医博士学位，并在北加州开展大型动物兽医的职业生涯。」 HERE

OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, Sacramento Valley sunflower growers like Ethan Driver have discovered that their farms are attracting a new type of pest. On any weekend during full bloom, it isn’t unusual to find hundreds of cars parked along the borders of their fields, with hordes of Instagrammers in search of a post-worthy pic. On the other hand, growers like Andreotti Family Farms in Half Moon Bay, seen in photos above and to the right, welcome the situation by inviting visitors to special events that give open access to their flowering fields.

过去几年来，萨克拉曼多谷的向日葵种植 者发现，他们的田地出现了一种新型态的 「入侵现象」。在向日葵花盛开的季节，周 末时常会有数百部汽车停在花田边，成群 结队的 Instagram 用户在花海中试着拍出 引人注目的照片。如本页图中的 Andreotti 家族也乐于举办特别活动，邀请访客来到 他们位于加州半月湾的向日葵花田。

“The seeds grown here are considered the Cadillacs of sunflower seeds. 这里种植的种子被誉为 葵花籽界的凯迪拉克。”

Ethan Driver

Roasted lamb saddle with confit eggplant, fresh morels, cipollini onions, and beluga lentils 烤羊鞍配油封茄子， 新鲜羊肚菌，cipollini 洋葱与白鲸扁豆

kernels of inspiration

A California chef explores the diverse culinary uses of sunflower seeds.

BY MAMIE CHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID

HARTUNG

•

WHEN ASKED HOW SUNFLOWER SEEDS are eaten, most people reflexively think of a handful of black and white striped seeds, roasted and salted and ready to be cracked open as a nutritious snack. Others might mention the plump kernels themselves, lightly toasted and tossed into granola, sprinkled on a salad, or garnishing the top of bread or other baked goods.

Ask professional chefs about sunflower seeds, and they might extol their virtues as a versatile culinary ingredient that is nearly flavorless when raw but pleasingly nutty when roasted and whose form can range from whole kernels to pressed oil, from a fine powder to a thick, sticky paste.

To demonstrate their versatility, Jean Alberti, executive chef and

被问及如何食用葵花籽时，多数人率先想到的不 外乎是一把经过烘烤、用盐腌渍过的黑白相间堅 果。咬开外壳，就能将营养的葵花籽当零食享用。

其他人可能会将饱满的果核拿去稍加烘烤，并且 拌在谷麦中、洒在沙拉上，或是放在面包或其他 烘焙食品顶部当作装饰。

若询问专业厨师对葵花籽的看法，他们可能 会将这种食材誉为用途广泛的烹饪原料。葵花籽 生吃时几乎没有味道，但烤熟后散发令人回味的 坚果香气。除了可将葵花籽完整入菜，还能拿来

榨油，也能磨制成粉末或浓稠的糊状。

加州索诺玛谷 Santori 葡萄酒公司的行政总

Sunflower seed crusted scallops, squid ink tuile, imperial cordyceps, and celeriac root purée

葵花籽脆烤扇贝、墨鱼汁 脆饼、虫草与芹菜根泥

→ Jean Alberti

head of events at Santori Wines in Sonoma Valley, California, creates a compelling contrast in textures and flavors by preparing a crusted scallop dish using four forms of sunflower seeds. First, he grinds raw seeds into a flour-like powder and mixes it with roasted sunflower seed butter, toasted sunflower bread crumbs, and fresh chopped herbs. After freezing the mixture, he cuts out small disks, places them atop lightly sautéed scallops, and broils them for just a minute until crisp. He plates them on a squid ink tuile garnished with imperial cordyceps and encircles all with dollops of celeriac root purée mixed with sunflower seed paste.

In the past, Alberti has prepared similar dishes using hazelnuts or pistachios, but sunflower seeds offer a welcome nut-free alternative.

厨与活动负责人 Jean Alberti 为了显示葵花籽的 多重用途，利用四种形态的葵花籽准备了一道脆 皮扇贝料理，创造出令人惊艳的口感与风味对比。 首先，他将生的葵花籽磨成面粉般的粉末，并与 烤过的葵花籽黄油、面包碎与新鲜剁碎的香料混 合。经冷冻后，他将混合材料切成小片，放在 稍微煎过的扇贝上炙烤一分钟，直到表面变脆。 Jean 将扇贝摆放在墨鱼汁脆饼上，并缀以虫草， 围绕在脆饼四周的则是葵花籽酱佐芹菜根泥。 过去，Jean 曾用榛子或开心果做过类似的 料理，葵花籽也可是一种隨意使用、受欢迎的非 坚果类替代。「厨师经常在料理中运用各式各样

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Salmon sous vide, gravlax style, with dill and salmon roe 真空低温烹调法腌渍鲑鱼，

佐莳萝与鲑鱼卵

“Chefs often use many different seeds and nuts in their cuisine – almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios, chestnuts, and sesame seeds. So I know I can treat sunflower seeds in many of the same ways.”

Alberti prepares a gravlax-style cured salmon by first sealing the fish in a bag with sunflower seed oil and cooking it sous vide at 45˚C for not more than fifteen minutes. This allows the oil to penetrate the salmon without actually cooking it. After removing it from the bag and patting it dry, he cures the fish with a mixture of salt, sugar, dill, and pink peppercorns.

“For the gravlax, the salt and dill in the curing mixture give all the flavor I need,” he says. “The sunflower seed oil, in terms of flavor, is actually very light, but it gives the salmon a glossy shine that I like.”

For a dish of roasted lamb saddle, he treats roasted and ground sunflower seeds as a spice to lend a nutty aroma to the lamb sauce. And for a dessert of mille-feuille of caramel tuile and diplomat cream, the chef adds to the cream a sweet paste made from ground sunflower seeds, powdered sugar, and concentrated milk for a hint of nutty flavor and a tinge of green.

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Mille-feuille of caramel, diplomat cream, sunflower seeds, and fresh berries  以焦糖、卡仕达奶油、

葵花籽与新鲜莓果制成的千层酥

的种子与坚果，像是杏仁、榛子、开心果、栗 子和芝麻。所以我知道我也能用类似的方式来 运用葵花籽。」

制作腌制鲑鱼时，Jean 先将鲑鱼和葵花籽

油一起密封在袋中，并以摄氏四十五度进行真 空低温烹调，时间不超过十五分钟。这能让葵 花籽油充分渗透进鲑鱼肉里，但不用真的将鲑 鱼煮熟。鲑鱼从袋中取出拍干后，他以盐、糖、 莳萝和红胡椒粒混合磨制而成的腌料来腌鱼。 他表示：「腌渍料中的盐跟莳萝带有我需要的所 有风味。就口味而言，葵花籽油其实非常清淡， 但能让鲑鱼油润闪耀，呈現我非常喜欢的光泽。」

在烤羊鞍这道料理中，Jean 将烤过的葵花 籽和磨碎的葵花籽作为香料，替羊肉汁增添坚 果香气。而以焦糖脆饼与卡仕达鲜奶油制成的 千层酥甜点中，他则在甜奶油中加入磨碎的葵 花籽、糖粉与浓缩奶油，在味觉上增添坚果香气， 并在视觉上注入一抹清新的绿意。

幕后推手

the man behind the curtain

Tim Brooke-Webb, managing director of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, 50 Best Bars, and 50 Best Hotels, tells TK’s Mark Hammons how an award platform has helped to create an international culinary community. § 负责「世界50最佳餐厅」、「世界50最佳酒吧」、「世界50最佳酒店」奖项的董事总 经理Tim Brooke-Webb，接受TK创办人Mark Hammons访谈时谈到，该评鉴平台如何推动国际餐饮社 群的诞生。

Tell us about The World’s 50 Best Hotels, the latest member of the 50 Best family.

It’s an idea we’ve been discussing for quite some time, about where we take the brand. It’s a whole new genre for us but still hospitality. This helps us to complete the circle. The first awards ceremony will take place in September 2023 in London. We’re launching in a modest way – we’ll listen to the industry, check that we have the acceptance and respect, and it will scale up from there.

Why wait until now?

Our priority had always been to focus on restaurants and bars globally. Our next priority was to focus on the regional Asia and Latin America awards. The idea was to give these regions visibility to the rest of the world and start to help the world understand different cuisines.

We’re covering the world well with restaurants and bars. After the pandemic, the hospitality industry was under a lot of financial stress, so we’re answering that cry for help, as we know it makes an enormous difference not just to the businesses that get on the list but also the industry as a whole. The awards get everyone talking, which drives curiosity and gets them through the door.

What effect do you think 50 Best Hotels will have on the sector?

It’s less about encouraging occupancy and more about prestige and validation at a top level. I don’t think anyone else is doing that with our level of authenticity.

能不能跟我们谈谈「50 最佳系列」的最新成员 –「世 界 50 最佳酒店」？

我们对于这个新类别，已经讨论了很久，这也攸关 「50 最佳系列」品牌的走向，对我们来说是创立一个全 新的类别，不过当然还是在餐旅业的范畴之内。加入这 个类别后，能让「50 最佳系列」变得更加完整，首场颁 奖典礼预计于 2023 年 9 月在伦敦举办，这次规模较为

低调 – – 我们利用这个机会听取产业的各方意见，确保 这个新奖项具备一定的接受度与公信力，未来再扩大办 理。

为什么等到现在才推出新类别？

我们最关注的焦点一直都是全球的餐厅与酒吧，其 次则是区域性的亚洲与拉丁美洲的奖项，希望能提高这 些地区餐饮业在全球范围的能见度，也借此让各地民众 接触更多元的美食文化。

我们既有的奖项中，针对餐厅与酒吧的涵盖范围已 可说是相当全面。新冠疫情后，餐旅界遭受严重经济冲 击，为了回应业界迫切的需求，我们才决定新增这个类 别，因为我们深知「世界 50 最佳酒店」奖项将具备强 大的影响力。不仅上榜的酒店业绩能够受到加持，其实 整个产业都能获益良多。获奖名单一揭晓，不仅酒店讨 论度大增，出于好奇想尝鲜的全球旅客都会蜂拥而至。

您认为「世界 50 最佳酒店」这个奖项将为餐旅业带 来哪些影响？

我们设立这个新类别的主要用意，并非要让上榜酒 店吸纳更多顾客，而是著重顶级酒店的声望与认证，我 想没有其他奖项的评鉴真实度比我们更高了。

Best Bar in North America: Double Chicken Please, New York City

Double Chicken Please

What are the key contributing factors to the longevity and success of the awards?

We have created and brought together a global community and made them a family. Before us, there was no vehicle that brought chefs, bartenders, and frontof-house together across markets. We put chefs at center stage. I want us to be in the background – the chefs are the talent, we’re just providing the platform.

How do you create this culture?

It comes from a knowledge that we are not the superstars. There are lots of stars behind the scenes – the academy chairs, the anonymous voters, and the sponsors who want to give something back because we are doing the right thing. We aren’t virtue signalers – the chefs are the real talent. To have them speak the way they do is great validation, thanking us for the platform and the community.

Johanne spoke about how she wanted the Best Female Chef award to be obsolete.

She was concerned that by saying she wants the award to be obsolete she would offend us, but we agree with her. We don’t want it to last any longer than it has to, but the fact is there is still such inequality in kitchens, and people do not always get treated very well. Once we no longer need it, we will withdraw it, but we are not there yet.

Can you share a bit about how the awards work to achieve equitable representation?

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants is 318 voters gender balanced from across Asia. Globally, the academy chairs come from the countries and cities they represent, and they recruit voters like themselves – this isn’t a bunch of Brits choosing voters or restaurants. People are learning, and we still make a point of reminding everyone how it all works.

「世界 50 最佳系列」奖项历久不衰，

且持续引领业界潮流，您觉得最主 要的原因为何？ 我们藉由这些奖项打造出一个全 球餐饮业社群，将所有成员纳入这个 大家庭。我们创立这个品牌之前，并

没有跨界整合主厨、调酒师、旅宿服 务的评鉴平台，而这个品牌让主厨成 为舞台焦点，我们主办单位则扮演幕 后推动者的角色，厨师才是主角，设 立奖项仅是提供让他们绽放光芒的平 台。

您们是如何创造这股文化潮流？ 我们认为奖项的超级巨星并不是 主办单位，而是评选过程中的幕后英 雄 – – 评审委员会和匿名投票人，以 及因为肯定我们的付出而给予回馈的 各方赞助者，我们并未把自己标榜成 美食权威，让主厨成为最闪亮的巨星。 听到获奖主厨由衷感谢我们设立这些 奖项、打造出全球社群，是对于「50 最佳系列」的最佳肯定。

获奖的菲律宾厨师施玉安曾表示希 望能取消「最佳女厨师奖」，您们 有什么看法？

她有点担心这么说会对我们主办 单位造成冒犯，但是其实我们都认同 她的看法。我们衷心期盼有一天不再 需要设立这个奖项，但是，目前餐饮 界的现况还未能完全打破性别偏见，

仍旧有人受到不平等的待遇。一旦这 些情况不再发生，我们就会让这个奖 项走入历史，不过那一天尚未到来。

如何实现奖项的公正代表性？

「亚洲 50 最佳」奖项共有 318 名评审，评审团都是来自亚洲各地， 且性别比例均衡。他们各自招募同 一国家城市的评审 – 可不是找一群 英国人票选出来的。大家都在学习， 而我们也致力让外界更了解整个评 选机制。

World’s Best Restaurant: Central, Lima 世界最佳餐厅：利马Central

Best Restaurant in Middle East & North Africa: Orfali Bros Bistro, Dubai

Orfali Bros Bistro

Making 最佳揭晓

List the

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 announces its highly anticipated rankings in Singapore.

THE WORLD’S LARGEST CONTINENT presents incredible culinary diversity, and this boundless variety was well represented at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 awards ceremony, which brought together a stellar collection of the vast region’s top chefs for what has been called the “Oscars of the Asian gastronomic world.”

BY CHRIS DWYER

As the tenth annual edition of the awards, sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, kicked off at Resorts World Sentosa in Singapore, the room was filled with nervous culinary superstars awaiting the results. It marked the first ceremony since 2019 with full-scale in-person attendance, adding to the mix of tension and excitement.

The prestigious awards are voted on by the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, a gender-balanced group of more than three hundred food writers and critics, chefs, restaurateurs, and regional culinary experts.

Overall, the evening marked a stunning achievement for Thai Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, who took home awards for two of his Bangkok restaurants, first place for Le Du and third place for Nusara. Separating them was Chef Daniel Calvert’s Sézanne in Tokyo. The list also featured eleven restaurants in China and nine in Singapore as well as six new entries.

全球幅员最辽阔的亚洲大陆展现无与伦比的餐饮多样性，而这种无穷无尽 的美食特色完美体现在 2023 年度「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁奖典礼上。这场

盛会汇集全亚洲的顶尖厨师，被誉为「亚洲美食界的奥斯卡」。由圣沛黎 洛 (S.Pellegrino) 和巴娜 (Acqua Panna)  赞助的第十届年度颁奖典礼在新加 坡圣淘沙名胜世界举行，会场坐满紧张兴奋的烹饪巨星，等待着奖项揭晓。 此次活动是该奖项在 2019 年后首度回归实体形式举办，现场尽是雀跃期待 的氛围。

这一系列名声响亮的奖项是由「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅评审委员会 (Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy)」投票选出，委员会由三百多位美食作家、 评论家、厨师、餐厅经营者与区域料理专家组成，整体性别比例均衡。泰国 籍厨师 Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn 在当晚盛会上备受肯定，他创立的两间 曼谷餐厅皆榜上有名，Le Du 取得第一名，Nusara 则位居第三。夺得第二名 的餐厅是位于东京、由主厨 Daniel Calvert 主掌的 Sézanne。此外，名单中 还包括中国的十一间餐厅和新加坡的九间餐厅，以及六间新入选的餐厅。

COURTESY OF ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS (14)

LE DU

ALTHOUGH IT MAY sound French, “Le Du” comes from a Thai word for “season.”

The cuisine from Chef “Ton” Tassanakajohn proudly features Thai produce and offers occasional French accents. “It means so much to me and my team back home,” Ton told Tasting Kitchen of his win. “And also to my farmers and fishermen, because we’ve only used local ingredients since day one. When I started that in 2013, people thought I was crazy, that no one would pay money to eat local produce.”

He and his team have more than proved them wrong, with Le Du steadily working its way up the rankings since debuting in 2017. The chef’s culinary journey was untypical: he earned an economics degree in Thailand before studying at the Culinary Institute of America. After spots at legendary restaurants, including Eleven Madison Park, he even found time to qualify as a sommelier.

On his four- and six-course tasting menus in Bangkok, standout dishes include crab with mushroom and homemade sriracha as well as three different kinds of seaweed and algae with prawns and fish sauce sorbet. Not to be missed is his ever-present signature dish of khao kluk kapi, river prawns with brown rice risotto and shrimp paste.

Le Du 听起来像法语，但其实是泰文中的「季节」。主厨 “Ton” Tassanakajohn 的料理以泰国 农产品为特色，偶尔也会展现法国料理的风味。当 Ton 和 TK 谈起获奖殊荣，他说：「这对 我的家乡、团队而言意义重大，与我长期合作的农民和渔民也是，因为我们从开业第一天起 就坚持使用本地食材。我在 2013 年开始这样经营的模式时，大家都觉得我疯了，认为没有 人会愿意花费来品尝本地食材。」

他和团队证明这个想法是错的。自 2017 年首次入榜以来，Le Du 的排名稳定上升。这 位主厨的背景相当独特：他先在泰国取得经济学学位，然后到美国烹饪学院进修，除了曾在 Eleven Madison Park 等知名餐厅任职，他还抽出时间取得侍酒师资格。在 Le Du 的四道菜 与六道菜尝味菜单中，亮点菜式包括螃蟹配蘑菇与自制辣酱，以及三种不同的海藻搭配大虾 与鱼露雪酪。另外，他的招牌菜式虾酱拌饭，河虾配意式烩糙米饭佐虾酱也是不容错过。

BANGKOK, THAILAND 泰国曼谷

Sézanne 位于东京丸之内四季酒店 七楼，环境优雅，开业不到两年就 广受宾客与评论家赞赏。香港设计 师 André Fu 的室内设计搭配英国

厨师 Daniel Calvert 的美食，让这 家餐厅众望所归地成为日本首都中 最备受赞誉的美食据点之一。

Daniel 的烹饪背景亮眼丰富，

他曾在纽约 Per Se 与巴黎 Epicure 任职，然后在香港工作五年，带

领 Belon 在 2020 年度「亚洲 50 最 佳餐厅」排名中来到第四位。他的 当代法餐展示出其烹饪技法的精湛 与执行的完美，将日本的顶尖农产 品风味发挥到淋漓尽致，代表菜 式有鹅肝佐油封鸭、马德拉酒果 冻，以及白糠鹿肉搭配鹿儿岛甜薯。

Daniel 表示：「获选对我们而言是 至高无上的荣耀。这座奖项证明我 们团队在打造美食飨宴过程中付出 的努力，从采购最好的当地食材， 到每道菜最后的摆盘点缀，每一个 环节我们都十分讲究。」

SÉZANNE

TOKYO, JAPAN 日本东京

IN THE ULTRA-ELEGANT SURROUNDINGS of the seventh floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, Sézanne has wowed diners and critics since opening less than two years ago. With interiors from Hong Kong designer André Fu and food from British Chef Daniel Calvert, the restaurant has more than lived up to its billing as one of the Japanese capital’s most thrilling places to eat.

Calvert’s impressive résumé includes Per Se in New York and Epicure in Paris before five years in Hong Kong leading Belon to fourth place on the Asia’s 50 Best 2020 list. His contemporary French cuisine displays flawless technique and masterly execution in dishes celebrating the finest from Japan’s incredible natural larder, including foie gras with duck confit and Madeira jelly as well as Shiranuka venison with sweet potatoes from Kagoshima.

“It’s an honor for us to be chosen as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants,” says Calvert. “This award is a reflection of our team’s dedication to every step of the food journey, from procuring the best of local ingredients to completing the final touches on each plate.”

NUSARA

BANGKOK, THAILAND 泰国曼谷

SISTER RESTAURANT to Chef Ton’s Le Du, Bangkok’s Nusara features a contemporary take on traditional Thai cuisine, from family recipes to royal dishes. Working alongside his brother Tam, a sommelier and maître d’, Ton presides over an intimate ten-seat dining room that overlooks the legendary Wat Pho temple complex and combines old-world

glamour with modernity.

The brothers founded Nusara in memory of their grandmother, who inspired their love of Thai cuisine. A twelve-course tasting menu starts with delicate fragrant snacks like mackerel with coconut and cucumber, Hokkaido scallop with sweet corn and cured egg yolk, and a stunning signature crab curry that is served with horseshoe crab roe atop a crispy betel leaf. Another stellar dish is Bumbai Neua, beef cheek in a Mumbai-style curry with pickled cucumber.

A number of Nusara’s recipes date from the reign of King Rama V in the early 1900s and feature spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom, reflecting the diverse influences that have made Thai cuisine so universally popular.

曼谷的 Nusara 是主厨 Ton 的 Le Du 的姐妹 餐厅，以传统泰国菜为特色，以现代风格呈 现泰式家庭料理与皇室菜肴。Ton 与他的兄弟 Tam（餐厅侍酒师和经理）携手，主掌这间有 十个座位的私厨。餐厅位置可俯瞰传说中的卧 佛寺，完美结合旧世界的华贵魅力与现代风尚。 当初是祖母燃起了兄弟俩对泰国菜的热忱， 他们创办 Nusara 也是为了纪念她。丰富的十二道菜 尝味菜单以精致、香气馥郁的小食揭开序幕，包括鲭 鱼佐椰子与黄瓜、北海道扇贝搭配甜玉米、腌蛋黄，以及 令人惊艳的招牌咖喱蟹，搭配酥脆槟榔叶、马蹄蟹籽；另一 道亮眼的菜肴是 Bumbai Neua －孟买式咖喱牛颊肉佐腌黄瓜。

Nusara 的某些菜式更可溯源至 20 世纪初拉玛五世统治时期，如 肉豆蔻、肉桂和豆蔻等香料运用，这是让泰国菜成为普遍流行的 重要影响。

A FORMER WINNER of the top prize, Tokyo’s iconic and hugely creative Den is led by Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa. From the moment a guest steps into the restaurant, the warm hospitality is flawless, led by Hasegawa’s wife, Emi, and possibly including an appearance by Puchi Jr, the couple’s beloved Chihuahua mascot. It’s no wonder that Den was winner of the inaugural Art of Hospitality award from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017.

Chef Hasegawa trained in classical Japanese kaiseki cuisine, an elegant succession of beautifully presented and plated courses. But diners shouldn’t expect classic Japanese dishes – Hasegawa’s are unique and unlike any others in Japan. There’s the monaka of foie gras, the DFC Dentucky fried chicken that has become a classic, the Den salad with more than twenty ingredients, and the remarkable donabe gohan, or clay pot rice topped with seafood, Wagyu, mushrooms, and more.

“I am often inspired by my customers and chef friends from around the world,” says Hasegawa of his always-playful cuisine. “I also get a lot of creative stimulation when I travel abroad.”

DEN

TOKYO, JAPAN 日本东京

曾夺得首名的 Den 是东京的著名创意料理据点，由主厨长谷川在佑主导。 宾客踏入餐厅的那一刻起，长谷川在佑的妻子惠美就开始提供无微不至的 热情款待，夫妻俩心爱的吉娃娃 Puchi Jr 还有可能会现身一起迎宾，难怪 Den 会在 2017 年度「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」中荣获「接待艺术」奖项。主厨 长谷川在佑受过日本传统怀石料理培训，这是一种由多道菜肴组成的精美 摆盘料理。但是，来到 Den 的宾客不仅能享用经典日本料理，长谷川在佑 的菜式独树一格，与传统料理有所不同。这里提供鹅肝最中（Monaka）、 俨然成为招牌菜的 DFC Dentucky 炸鸡、超过二十种食材的 Den 沙拉，以 及非比寻常的 Donabe gohan ：用海鲜、和牛、蘑菇等食材覆盖的煲仔饭。 长谷川在佑谈起 自己趣味满盈的特色 料理时，表示：「我的 料理创作灵感来自世 界各地的宾客与厨师 朋友。到国外旅行时 我也得到很多创意启 发。」

FEW CHEFS IN ASIA and on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants lists are as recognizable as Kolkata-born Gaggan Anand. A four-time winner, from 2015 to 2018, he closed his restaurant Gaggan in 2019 and opened a new incarnation, Gaggan Anand, which still pushes the boundaries with irreverent menus. As if to prove the point, on booking a table, you’ll get a questionnaire asking for your favorite band, swear word, and position from the Kama Sutra

Anand’s vision has always been to upend traditional fine dining through molecular gastronomy, global techniques, and unexpected ingredients. In his Bangkok twenty-eightseater, he continues to do this through dishes like Flower Power that features a goat’s brain mousse and Brain Freeze, an ice cream whose ingredients guests have to guess. Regular fans of Gaggan’s food will be happy that his classic dish Lick It Up, a multicolored representation of powders seen at the Hindu festival Holi and cleverly crafted from vegetable dyes, has evolved and remained.

Alongside the fountain of creativity in the kitchen, head sommelier Vladimir Kojic oversees a cellar largely celebrating natural, biodynamic wines from Europe and small-batch spirits and artisanal mixers in potent cocktails.

GAGGAN ANAND

BANGKOK, THAILAND 泰国曼谷

在亚洲以及「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」名单 中，很少有厨师能够像

Gaggan 受到如此崇高的肯 定。他生于加尔各答，2015 年到 2018 年曾四度获奖，他

于 2019 年关闭 Gaggan 餐厅后， 开设全新据点 Gaggan Anand， 餐厅继续坚持以创新烹调打破局 限。为了体现餐厅忠于开创的精神， 宾客在订位时会收到一份调查问卷， 询问其最爱的乐团、最常讲的脏话， 甚至是印度爱经《Kama Sutra》中最爱 的体位。

Gaggan 的理念是透过分子料理学、综 合世界各地的烹饪技术及非比寻常的食材来颠 覆传统高级餐饮。在他于曼谷开设、仅有 28 个 座位的餐厅当中，他持续实现著这目标，意想不到的菜式包括以羊 脑慕斯为特色的 Flower Power，以及要让宾客猜测成分与食材的冰 淇淋 Brain Freeze。Gaggan 的忠实粉丝顾客也绝对乐见经典菜肴如 Lick It Up 能保留，并持续在主厨的改良下带来惊喜，菜式巧妙使用 蔬菜的天然色彩来染色，呈现印度节日 Holi 色彩节中缤纷的多彩粉 末。厨房里源源不断的创意蓬勃酝酿，多元多样的酒窖由首席侍酒 师 Vladimir Kojic 主理，藏有来自欧洲的天然、生物动力葡萄酒，以 及小批烈酒。他也带领多位能力超凡的调酒师。

Highest Climber 最佳进步奖

CHEF HAN LIGUANG’S LABYRINTH won the Sustainable Restaurant Award in 2021 and this year took the Highest Climber Award by jumping an impressive twenty-nine places to number eleven. That’s thanks to Han’s remarkable take on classic Singaporean dishes, which he refines and modernizes to dazzling effect.

Local food from Singapore’s beloved and famous hawker centers are a big inspiration, and Labyrinth’s interactive menu and a décor that includes a map of local train lines and works by Singaporean artists make for an unforgettable dining experience.

Food-wise, the celebration translates into multiple small bites that are constantly evolving. How about flower crab with chili crab ice cream, curry leaves, and a side of deep-fried mini buns? Then there’s rojak, the classic sweet salad, featuring twelve local herbs and fermented honey. Seafood fans will swoon at the chef’s hae mee tng, or prawn noodles, as well as his squid served with scallop and dried flounder.

主厨韩立光掌厨的 Labyrinth 餐厅在 2021 年赢得「永续餐厅 奖」，今年又获得「最佳进步奖」，排名跃升至第十一位，令 人惊喜。这都要归功于韩立光在诠释新加坡经典料理时的精 湛表现，他对这些菜肴进行改良与现代化调整，端出一道道 令人耳目一新的料理。

韩立光的主要灵感来源为新加坡内著名且大受欢迎的熟 食中心所提供的当地美食。Labyrinth 的互动式菜单，以及餐

厅内的火车路线图与新加坡艺术家的作品装饰，也让宾客拥 有难忘的用餐体验。 食物方面，餐厅用多道持续改良演进的小食来向新加 坡食材与料理风味致敬。花蟹佐辣椒蟹冰淇淋、咖喱叶子， 再搭配油炸小餐包，让人食指大动。还有经典的甜味沙拉 rojak，选用十二种当地香草和发酵蜂蜜。海鲜爱好者肯定会 对主厨的虾面，以及鱿鱼佐扇贝和干比目鱼等料理跃跃欲试。

Asia’s Best Female Chef

亚洲最佳女主厨

JOHANNE SIY 施玉安 LOLLA, SINGAPORE 新加坡 LOLLA

BORN AND RAISED in the Philippines, Chef Johanne Siy of Lolla in Singapore took home this year’s award for Asia’s Best Female Chef. Lolla opened in 2012, but Siy, since she came aboard as head chef in 2020, has taken the kitchen and menu in a whole new direction, thanks largely to her remarkable culinary journey.

After a corporate career in New York, Siy enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America and gained experience working with legendary chefs like Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin. Then came stints at Fäviken and Noma in Scandinavia and Restaurant André back in Singapore. Her cuisine partly reflects her upbringing in Dagupan, a city four hours’ drive from Manila. “I grew up about five minutes from the beach, so there was great, very fresh seafood. Our cuisine is so rich and vibrant, you still see things that surprise you, that you’ve never experienced before.”

At twenty-two-seat Lolla, this means dishes like abalone from South Korea that is cooked for ten hours, then grilled and served with a remarkable sauce of kombu, abalone liver, and truffle. Another standout is crab shell stuffed with crabmeat and a Filipino delicacy called aligue, made from fermented crab fat and roe.

在菲律宾出生长大的新加坡 Lolla 餐 厅主厨施玉安，赢得今年的「亚洲最 佳女主厨奖」。 Lolla 于 2012 年开业， 而施玉安自 2020 年担任主厨以来，引 领厨房与菜单往全新方向发展，这些 都归功于她杰出非凡的烹饪背景。 施玉安曾在纽约公司任职，后 来进入美国烹饪学院学习，并在 Le Bernardin 获得与 Daniel Boulud 和 Eric Ripert 等传奇名厨合作的经 验。随后，她在斯堪的纳维亚半岛的 Fäviken 和 Noma 餐厅，以及新加坡 的 André 任职。她的料理体现出她在 距离马尼拉四小时车程的达古潘市成 长的经历。「我在距离海滩大约五分 钟的地区长大，所以那里有很多很好、 非常新鲜的海鲜。我们的料理丰富多 元、充满活力，在当地还是能找到让 人惊艳的新食材，是你从未体验过的 风味与口感。」

在拥有 22 个座位的 Lolla 餐厅， 来自韩国的鲍鱼经过近十小时的烹煮 及烘烤之后，再搭配由昆布、鲍鱼肝 和松露调制的美味酱汁一起上桌。另 一道经典菜式是装满蟹壳的蟹肉，以 及名为 aligue 的菲律宾美食，由发酵 的蟹脂和蟹黄制成。

Asia’s Best Sommelier

亚洲最佳侍酒师

DELLA TANG 唐丹雯 ENSUE, SHENZHEN 深圳 ENSUE

AT JUST TWENTY-NINE, Della Tang of Ensue has already made a name for herself in China’s wine industry, thanks to her rich and wide knowledge paired with attuned hospitality and meticulous service.

Tang originally studied psychology in Los Angeles but fell in love with the restaurant world during an exchange program in the UK. She went on to study wine management at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and interned at Château Caronne Ste. Gemme in Bordeaux.

Experience followed at Michelinstarred Yam’Tcha and Le Taillevent in Paris before she relocated to Shanghai and then landed the role of head sommelier at restaurant Ensue in 2019.

Tang is widely recognized for her instinct in understanding what diners like to drink – perhaps due in part to her training in psychology. Her extensive travels to destinations that include Bordeaux, Cognac, Champagne, Burgundy, Napa Valley, and Yunnan in China have only deepened her remarkable knowledge of wines.

年仅 29 岁的唐丹雯在中国的葡萄酒业界 已声名鹊起，这都要归功于她广博的知识 以及周到入微的接待服务。

唐丹雯原先在洛杉矶攻读心理学， 但在一次英国交流行程中爱上餐饮业，后 来到巴黎蓝带学院学习葡萄酒管理，并在 波尔多的 Caronne Ste. Gemme 酒庄实习。 随后，她在巴黎的米其林星级餐厅 Yam’Tcha 和 Le Taillevent 累积丰富经验， 之后搬到上海，并于 2019 年在 Ensue 餐 厅担任首席侍酒师。

唐丹雯具有敏锐的直觉，也或许是 拥有心理学背景的原因，她擅于了解宾 客喜欢的葡萄酒种类，而这份直觉也广 受认可与推崇。她的旅行足迹遍至波尔 多、干邑、香槟区、勃根地、纳帕谷及 中国云南，不停累积更深厚广博的葡萄 酒专业知识。

Macau Entries

澳门上榜餐厅

WING LEI PALACE 永利宫

EARNING A SPOT on the list for the fifth year running, and rising in the rankings to number thirty-nine, Wing Lei Palace at Wynn Palace also took the Best Restaurant in Macau honor for the first time.

Helmed by Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung, a former winner of the Best Chef of the Year title from the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, the restaurant’s dishes are boldly innovative while reflecting Cantonese cooking traditions.

For diners, it means seasonal signature dishes like the chef’s stunning steamed blue lobster with egg white and twenty-year-aged Shaoxing wine sauce.

Another unforgettable creation is sumptuous goose, roasted over wood, elevated with fragrant black truffles, and served over vegetable rice.

A true authority on refined Cantonese cuisine, Chef Tam oversaw dining at two legendary five-star hotels in Bangkok in the 1990s and has cooked for royal families and heads of state over the decades of his illustrious career.

澳门永利皇宫的中餐厅永利宫连续五年上榜，排名上升至第 39 位，也首度获 得「澳门最佳餐厅」的荣誉。

永利宫由获得黑珍珠餐厅指南「年度主厨」头衔的行政总厨谭国锋主理， 其料理在体现广东烹饪传统的同时，展现大胆创新的精神。

宾客能在料理中感受到这种结合传统与创新的手法，如季节性的招牌 料理，像是主厨令人惊 艳的二十年花雕黑鱼子 蛋白蒸龙虾。另一道令 人难忘的菜肴是肥美的 烧鹅，先用木柴烘烤之 后加上芬芳四溢的黑松 露，再搭配炒饭。

谭师傅可说是精致 粤菜的代表，他在 90 年 代主掌曼谷两家传奇五星 级酒店的餐饮，并曾为皇 室与国家元首烹饪下厨， 职业生涯非常辉煌。

Macau Entries

澳门上榜餐厅

SICHUAN MOON 川江月

排名第 43 的永利皇宫川江月，在创意厨艺总监江振诚的指导下，以 高超的创意手法呈献川菜的多元样貌及精髓。除了代表性的「川辣」 及「麻辣」，川菜的二十四味型也体现在各式菜式中。

家常、鱼香和酸辣成了菜单重点特色，味觉体验以八个「珠宝盒」 打造的前菜展开，当中包括夫妻肺片和以顶级蔬菜制作的泡菜等美味 小食。担担面这种深受喜爱的四川美食也升级至全新层次。手工制作 的面条承装在茶壶中，食客能先在碗里添加包括辣油、碎花生及梅干 菜的酱汁。川江月的服务无可挑剔，内部装潢华丽细致，包括一盏以 穆拉诺玻璃制成的巨大吊灯，堪为首屈一指的四川美食圣殿。

RANKING FORTY-THREE on the list, Sichuan Moon at Wynn Palace, under the guidance of Culinary Director André Chiang, distills the complexity and essence of Sichuan cuisine in sublimely creative ways.

While the famed Sichuan hot and numbing taste profile, mala, plays a significant role, all of the region’s family of twenty-four flavors are represented.

“Home-style,” “fish-fragrant,” and “sour-and-spicy” profiles feature in a menu that kicks off with eight “treasure boxes” holding such delights such as offal in mala oil and pickles crafted from the finest vegetables available.

The beloved Sichuan favorite of dan dan mian is taken to a whole new level. Handmade noodles are served in a teapot and diners add the sauce, which includes chili oil, crushed peanuts, and preserved mustard greens.

With impeccable service and an opulent décor featuring a huge chandelier made from Murano glass, it is Sichuan dining without equal.

taste and presentation

The acclaimed chef of Peach Blossoms gives star status to Cantonese food in Singapore.

“NOWADAYS, you have to bring layers of flavor and texture into each dish,” says Edward Chong, the young, energetic, multi-award-winning executive chef of Peach Blossoms, signature Cantonese restaurant of PARKROYAL COLLECTION Marina Bay, Singapore. The property, which bills itself as the first “Garden-in-a-Hotel,” is lush with twenty-four hundred plants, trees, and shrubs as well as urban farm plots for supplying its restaurants with more than sixty types of fruits, vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers.

Such abundance of fresh ingredients is right in tune with Chong’s motivating goal: “I want to raise the level of Chinese cuisine here in Singapore,” which he sees as a city wide open to new culinary approaches. To appeal to the younger crowd in the age of Instagram and TikTok, Chong puts an emphasis on alluring plating and presentation. “Some of the more traditional Chinese chefs have asked why I am changing the appearance of Cantonese cuisine. I just let success speak for itself.” By making a name for itself with stunning visuals, Peach Blossoms has become a repeat favorite for many diners, with a sustained uptick in social-media sharing.

The modern elegance of the restaurant’s interiors serves as a harmonious backdrop for the food. Clean understated design featuring beechwood paneling and modish textures hints at the aesthetically appealing culinary creations in store.

But to Chong, substance is just as important as style. “When I was studying with my mentor, the food only had to taste good and you could call it a day.” To meet the rising expectations of contemporary diners, however, Chong and his team create from scratch a variety of soup stocks with which they can precisely adjust the sweet, salty, and umami flavors of any dish. This focus on natural seasoning gives the food at Peach Blossoms a

鸿桃轩是新加坡滨海湾宾乐雅臻选酒店的招 牌粤菜餐厅，年轻、活力十足且获奖无数的 餐厅主厨 Edward Chong 表示：「我们要在每 道菜中引入不同层次的风味与口感。」该酒店 以第一家「花园酒店」自居，拥有两千四百 种植物、树木与灌木，以及一大片的都会农场。 农场生产的六十多种蔬果、香草与可食用花 卉都是供酒店餐厅使用的食材。

如此丰富的新鲜食材正好与 Edward 的 理念不谋而合：「我想提高新加坡的中餐档 次。」他认为新加坡的中餐还有很大的进步空 间。为了吸引 Instagram 和 TikTok 时代的年 轻族群，Edward 特别注重摆盘与料理的呈 现方式。「有些传统的中餐厨师问我为何要改 变粤菜的外观。我们餐厅的料理如此受欢迎， 我想答案就不言自明了。」主厨运用令人叹为 观止的视觉效果来打响名号，使鸿桃轩成为 许多饕客再三造访的餐厅，在社交媒体上的 曝光量也不断增加。

装潢的优雅现代风格与料理相辅相成， 简洁低调的设计，以海滩木栈板和时尚的材 质纹理为特色，而餐厅充满美学的料理创作 也同样引人入胜。

但对 Edward 而言，料理本身与呈现 同等重要。「当我跟着师父学习厨艺时，只 要食物美味好吃，一切就没问题了。」但是， 为了满足当代饕客不断提升的期望与要求，

Chilled abalone, served with yuzu ponzu sauce 冰镇鲍鱼配柚子醋

freshness that stands out from the pack and is one reason the restaurant has become a mecca for contemporary Cantonese cuisine in Singapore.

The chef’s dishes, displaying an array of sophisticated techniques, are a cosmopolitan mix of Western and Japanese influences. The menu also highlights exciting new takes on Cantonese signatures, like Chong’s Deep-fried Cigar Rolls Filled with Black Truffle, Foie Gras, Crab, and Prawn Meat, his personal reinterpretation of the familiar spring roll. The dish successfully manages to be crispy, chewy, and tantalizingly tender all at once.

Applewood-Smoked Ibérico Pork Char Siu is given a delicate crust of torched sugar to emulate the addicting crisp skin of Cantonese-style roast duck. And Stewed Mung Bean Noodles with Lobster and Crab Roe Bottarga is a labor of love featuring painstakingly cured and pressed crab roe.

Chong’s creative vision has been reached by means of a sometimes rocky path. Sent to Singapore by his Malaysian family at 19, his first few months in the kitchen were a

← Fresh crab claw and stewed mung bean noodles in crab roe collagen

disaster, with repeated put-downs from his seniors for his inexperience and lack of talent. “At the beginning, I couldn’t fry an egg or cook instant noodles,” he wryly recalls.

Close to quitting, he decided to give himself three more months. Strangely enough, he says, “everything became very smooth for me in the kitchen” soon after making his decision. With newfound self-confidence and a desire to prove his naysayers wrong, Chong would go on to be promoted to wok chef in just two years and would later pass through the doors of Chef Sam Leong’s Forest restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa and Chef Yong Bing Ngen’s Majestic as master Chinese chef, accumulating wellrounded experience in both modern and classic Chinese cuisine. His string of awards includes Rising Chef of the Year at the Asian Masters 2019 and Asian Cuisine Chef of the Year at the World Gourmet Awards 2019 and 2022.

Chong’s answer is simple when asked what keeps people coming back to Peach Blossoms: “It’s our taste and presentation that make us unique.”

↓ Edward Chong

←

Deep-fried ”cigar“ rolls filled with black truffle, foie gras and prawn 黑松露鹅肝大虾「雪茄」

↓

Marble goby fillet with crispy scales and homemade organic pineapple sauce

脆皮笋壳鱼配自 制有机菠萝酱

Edward 与厨房团队从头开始制作各种汤汁， 进而能在每道菜肴的甜、咸与鲜味上精确调 整。对天然调味的重视让鸿桃轩的料理更清 新，从众多食物当中脱颖而出，这也是该餐 厅成为新加坡当代粤菜圣地的原因之一。

餐厅的每一道料理皆展现出繁复费工的 烹饪技术，完美结合西方与日本的元素，在 招牌特色料理中注入新意。像是黑松露鹅肝 虾蟹「雪茄」，Edward 以极具个人风格的方 式重新诠释这道为人熟悉的春卷料理，成功 带出酥脆、弹牙、软嫩等多层次口感。

用苹果木熏制的伊比利亚叉烧包裹着一 层精致的焦糖，与广式烧鸭脆皮一样让人一 吃上瘾。蟹黄粉皮更是 Edward 倾注全力， 用上精心腌制和调制的蟹黄制成的美味佳肴。

Edward 经过艰辛崎岖的培训之路，方 让烹饪能力达到如今的高度。十九岁时，家 人将他从马来西亚送到新加坡，而在厨房的 头几个月可说是一场灾难。厨房的前辈一再 贬低他，嘲讽他没有经验、缺乏天赋。他自 我解嘲地笑说：「一开始，我连煎蛋跟煮泡面 都不会。」

就在快要辞职之际，他决定再给自己三 个月时间。说来奇妙，做出这个决定后不久， 他形容当时：「在厨房里就突然如鱼得水了。」

他因而重拾信心，也希望证明那些看轻他的 人是错的。他在短短两年内晋升为热炒主厨，

后来受圣淘沙名胜世界 Forest 餐厅的 Sam

Leong 主厨指导，以及 Majestic 的 Yong Bing Ngen 主厨调教之下成为中菜大师，在 现代和经典中国菜方面累积丰富经验。一路

以来，Edward 获得许多奖项肯定，其中包括

2019 年亚洲大厨奖（Asian Masters）的年度 新兴主厨奖，以及 2019 与 2022 年世界美食

大奖（World Gourmet Awards）的年度亚洲

料理主厨奖（Asian Cuisine Chef）。

被问及是什么原因让宾客不断造访鸿桃

轩，Edward 的回答很简单：「料理的风味与 呈现让我们与众不同。」

ravishing and delicious

In sensuous surroundings, Singapore’s 5 ON 25 offers a modern incarnation of classic Cantonese food.

SIGHT, SOUND, TOUCH, TASTE, AND SMELL – all of the senses come into play at 5 ON 25, a delightfully voluptuous celebration of the Chinese supper club. Designed by top Hong Kong architect André Fu, this gorgeous restaurant on the twenty-fifth floor of the Andaz Singapore is entered through a cozy foyer, lined with white stone and dark wood, that leads on to a gracious dining room with extraordinarily striking décor.

BY LUCY MORGAN

Custom fittings in dusky pinks, chocolate browns, and ruby reds are paired with luxurious velvet fabrics, warm wood, and elegant traditional lacquer. These beautiful textures and colors evoke a nostalgic sense of 1950s Singapore. Adding to the charm is 5 ON 25’s location amid the city’s cultural districts of Kampong Glam, Little India, and Bras Basah Bugis.

The restaurant’s acclaimed Chef Lim Hong Lih presents his modern take on classic Cantonese fine-dining recipes using the highest quality

新加坡的五悦亭以绚丽繁盛的形式向中式料理 致敬，视觉、听觉、触觉、味觉和嗅觉，五感 都将在此获得极致的体验。这家位于新加坡安 达仕酒店二十五楼的华丽餐厅，是由香港顶尖 建筑师 André Fu 设计。入口的门 厅宽敞舒适，以白色石材与深色实 木妆点，餐厅内部风格优雅，缀有 引人注目的摆设装饰。

雅致的用餐环境由深沉的粉色、巧克力色 与红宝石色的订制配件，与奢华的天鹅绒面料、 温暖的木材和优雅的传统漆器相互搭配。这些 美丽的材质让人联想起 1950 年代新加坡的怀 旧风格。五悦亭座落于新加坡的人文街区，位 于甘榜格南、小印度和勿拉士峇沙武吉士街 区之间，优越的地理位置让餐厅更具魅力。

international ingredients. These are transformed into the chef’s delectably imaginative specialties, like his remarkable fried bird’s nest that combines premium Indonesian bird’s nest stir-fried with Sri Lankan crab and an umami-packed double-boiled soup of pork and pressed Chinese ham.

Tea lovers will appreciate the exceptional choices available on a menu that features rare and unusual leaves and flowers alongside sought-after varieties from many regions. The house signature blend is a glorious mix of flowers and fruits – osmanthus, goji berries, and longan – that has been carefully selected to complement Lim’s refined and lavish creations.

“But my food is not intimidating,” says the chef. “A lot of the dishes are traditional and therefore familiar – although I think diners will be happily surprised by my interpretations.”

备受赞誉的主厨林鸿利使用最顶级的国际食材， 以现代手法演绎经典粤式精致菜肴。

各种上等食材在主厨的巧手之下成为令人垂涎欲 滴的特色料理，其中包括名闻遐迩的悦亭炒官燕盏，主 厨将顶级印尼燕窝与斯里兰卡螃蟹一起下锅热炒，再放 入由猪肉与中式火腿炖煮而成的鲜味高汤烹煮，鲜美无 比。

喜爱品茗的宾客也绝对会喜欢菜单上的一系列精 选茶品，其特色是多种罕见、芳香的茶叶与花茶，以及 来自许多地区的热门茶种。五悦亭的招牌茶巧妙结合花 卉与水果的特色：桂花、枸杞和桂圆，花果茶的材料皆 经过精挑细选，完美搭配林主厨精致奢华的料理。

林主厨表示：「我的食物不会让人有距离感。许多 料理都很传统，所以大家都很熟悉。但我的个人料理风 格也绝对能让宾客感到惊喜。」

味蕾三重奏

triple inspiration

At Zén, simplicity and beauty unite to lead diners on a culinary adventure across three cuisines

“FROM THE MOMENT guests step in our house,” says Head Chef Tristin Farmer of three-Michelin-star Zén in Singapore, “we want it to be a fun, engaging, high-energy experience.”

Set over three floors of a lovely heritage shophouse on a quiet street in the charming Bukit Pasoh district of Singapore, Zén is famed Swedish chef Bjorn Frantzén’s first overseas restaurant to serve only tasting menus. Over nine courses and canapés, diners experience Frantzén’s magical take on Nordic, French, and Japanese cuisines.

新加坡米其林三星餐厅 Zén 的行政主厨 Tristin Farmer 说：「我们希望客人从踏进我们餐厅的那 一刻起，就展开一次有趣愉快而充满活力的用餐 体验。」

Zén 位于新加坡迷人的武吉巴梳区的安静街

BY LUCY MORGAN

Nordic flavors feature in a series of exquisite courses, each prepared using the finest available produce and plated with spare elegance. Fresh cucumber sorbet is presented as a single emerald-green quenelle. Silky Japanese chawanmushi sings with the sweet marine notes of king crab. Rich French-inspired onion soup is served simply, as a foaming velouté in a fetching earthenware beaker.

The design of the space reflects that of Frantzén, its sister restaurant in Stockholm. Organic materials fashioned into a pure,

道上，外观是一座风格典雅的三层

楼老宅。Zén 是知名瑞典厨师 Bjorn Frantzén 的首家海外餐厅，只献上最

令人惊艳的味觉飨宴。饕客可以从包

含九道菜和开胃小菜的菜单中，品尝 Bjorn 对北 欧、法国、日本三地料理的独特诠释。 料理皆选用上等食材，并以简约风格摆盘， 一系列精致料理完美诠释北欧极简美学：清爽的 黄瓜雪酪以橄榄球形（quenelle）呈现，酷似一 枚翡翠宝石；日式帝王蟹茶碗蒸中交织着丝滑 鲜甜的海洋曲调；法式洋葱汤为基底的法式白酱 （velouté）细沫，盛装于细腻的陶瓷容器内。

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帝王蟹茶碗蒸

↙ French Toast 法式吐司

minimalist interior reference Swedish artisanship, creating a perfect harmony with the beauty of the dishes.

As much care is taken with drinks as with food. An exceptional nonalcoholic juice pairing is available with grown-up, produce-driven drinks like a sparkling aperitif made with heirloom tomatoes and plums. “We’re a very ingredient-focused restaurant and can get the most incredible produce in the region,” says Farmer. There is an alcohol pairing available too, featuring a list of excellent wines, and guests may also mix and match a combination of alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages.

With just twenty-four seats, the restaurant has an intimate and welcoming feel. “Our guests respond well to the concept and cuisine,” says Farmer, “and we’re very fortunate to have a lot of regulars and repeat guests. We’re also very lucky to have some of the most talented staff in Singapore. The team is a complete joy to work with every day, and their passion and commitment never cease to amaze me.”

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Cucumber sorbet 黄瓜雪酪

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Swedish artisanship informs Zén’s minimalist interior. Zén 简约的空间设计 诠释瑞典美学。

Zén 的空间设计与 Bjorn 位于斯德哥尔摩的 姐妹餐厅相呼应，皆以有机建材诠释纯净、简约 的瑞典空间美学，让空间氛围与料理美学完美融 合。 餐厅的配餐饮品也毫不马虎，像是以原种番 茄和李子调配而成的开胃气泡饮，可谓配餐首选。 Tristin 说：「我们非常注重食材的品质，饮品也只 选用各地区最顶级的食材制作。」此外，Zén 也提 供餐酒搭配服务，有一系列出色的葡萄酒供宾客 选择，或可自由搭配酒精和非酒精饮料。

Zén 只有 24 个座位，营造出亲切温馨的氛 围。 Tristin 表示：「客人都很认同我们的理念与 料理，我们非常幸运可以有一群忠实顾客的支 持。我们也很幸运拥有新加坡最有才华的餐饮 团队。每天和这样的团队一起工作本身就是一 种享受，而他们全力以赴的热情每每令我感到 惊喜。」

Chawanmushi king crab

狮城酒荟

lion city libations

Four top bartenders lead a Singapore cocktail tour with a focus on art, wellness, and sustainability.

Go Bananas is zero-waste, making use of the deepfried peel as a snack.

Go Bananas 这杯调酒主 张零废弃，将香蕉皮油 炸后作为搭配的小食。

William Zhang The Temple House 成都博舍

KNOWN AS THE LION CITY OF ASIA, Singapore played host in early May to a remarkable collaboration between the Singapore Tourism Board and The House Collective from Swire Hotels. The concept was a creative cocktail tour of the vibrant financial and tourist hub, led by the head bartenders of the four unique hotels, or “houses,” that make up The House Collective.

Each of these Swire hotels – The Upper House in Hong Kong, The Opposite House in Beijing, The Middle House in Shanghai, and The Temple House in Chengdu – has its own distinctive character and sense of style as well as its own range of ecofriendly experiences, seasonal menus, wellness initiatives, and art and cultural themes. In creating the cocktail tour collaboration, The House Collective ethos and the spirit of Singapore were natural partners.

Frugal Hemingway, a take on the writer’s classic daiquiri, uses the entire grapefruit.

调酒师使用整个西柚，将经典

调酒海明威得其利重新演绎为

这杯 Frugal Hemingway。

五月初，新加坡旅游局和太古酒店旗下的「居 舍」，在被誉为亚洲狮城的新加坡，共同举办一 场别具一格的鸡尾酒盛宴。活动邀请了四家居 舍的首席调酒师，在这个充满活力的金融与旅 游重镇策划一场充满创意的鸡尾酒之旅。

BY JOHN NG

Long famed for cleanliness, modern style, and well-organized administration, Singapore has in recent years also built a reputation for a lively food and beverage scene, with an ever-growing number of worldclass restaurants and bars.

Beginning around 2010, a rapidly evolving cocktail culture became

这些居舍都隶属于太古酒店， 如香港的弈居、北京的瑜舍、上海的 镛舍及成都的博舍，每间都有独一无 二的个性与风格，以及目不暇给的环 保体验、季节性菜单、康体计画、艺术和文化 主题。规划这场鸡尾酒合作盛宴时，这些居舍 的理念与新加坡的城市脈搏可谓一拍即合。 一直以来，新加坡以干净、现代的风格以 及井然有序的行政管理闻名。近年来，新加坡 的餐饮业也蓬勃发展、树立起响亮的名声，世 界级餐厅与酒吧陆续在此扎根开花。

2010 年左右开始，迅速发展的鸡尾酒文化 成为新加坡热闹夜生活的主要特色。现在，许

Harry Zhang

The Opposite House 北京瑜舍

Cheese Teh Tarik is inspired by the quintessential Southeast Asian milk tea drink.

Cheese Teh Tarik 调酒的灵感 来自东南亚的经典奶茶饮料。

a central feature of the city’s buzzing nightlife. Today, an array of local talents is learning fast and quickly tuning in to the very latest in global cocktail trends. And a number of world-famous leaders in the spirits industry are celebrating Singapore’s cocktail culture by promoting the city as a hot drinks destination.

The drinks presented on the recent collaborative tour, which included two cocktails each from the four bartenders of The House Collective, were based on themes that fused inspirations from their home cities with Singaporean influences. Sustainability was center stage in the lineup of highly original concoctions, with an emphasis on local and unusual ingredients.

To showcase the mixologists’ masterpieces, Swire Hotels arranged for three exciting presentation venues, among the best the Singapore bar scene has to offer: 28 HongKong Street, Smoke & Mirrors, and Mandala Club. Since the event took place during the ninth annual Singapore Cocktail Festival, the venues were filled not only with local guests but also with visitors from around the world, providing plenty of opportunities for creative interaction on the part of the star bartenders from The House Collective.

多当地人才正加快脚步学习并迅速适应全球鸡 尾酒的最新趋势。一些世界知名的烈酒产业领 导者，也敞开双臂迎接新加坡的鸡尾酒文化， 努力将新加坡打造成另一个热门的酒精饮品据 点。

在这个别开生面的合作中，四位居舍的调 酒师贴合将家乡城市的灵感与新加坡的氛围相 互结合的主题，分别展示两款鸡尾酒。在这系 列展现个人原创精神的鸡尾酒当中，可持续是 贯穿其中的核心主题，重点在于使用来自当地、 罕见的食材原料。

为了更好地展示调酒师的杰作，太古酒店

安排三个风格各异的活动空间，都是现今新加 坡酒吧产业的最佳据点：28 HongKong Street、 Smoke & Mirrors 及 Mandala Club。活动举办 期间适逢第九届新加坡鸡尾酒节，现场不仅挤 满本地宾客，许多来自世界各地的游客也前来 共襄盛举，与居舍的明星调酒师进行创意交流 与互动。

Matthew Hall The Middle House 上海镛舍

“Sustainability was center stage in the lineup of highly original concoctions, with an emphasis on local and unusual ingredients.

可持续是贯穿其中的核心主题，重点在 于使用来自当地、罕见的食材原料。”

「鸳鸯」是结合咖啡及奶茶的

一种饮品，也是这杯 Korova Milk Tea 调酒的灵感来源。

Korova Milk Tea takes inspiration from Yeunyueng, a combination of coffee and milk tea.

Gail Lanorias The Upper House 香港奕居

STAR-STUDDED PAIRINGS

The chefs of three of Macau’s illustrious Michelin-starred Chinese restaurants match their creative Cantonese specialties with the complex flavors of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old.

BY JOYCE KWOK •

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

星馔酩缘

ALTHOUGH IT HAS A LONG HISTORY and honored traditions, Cantonese cuisine is constantly renewing itself. Among its masters in the forefront of innovation is Jade Dragon Executive Chef Kelvin Au Yeung, who has discovered the intriguing pairing possibilities of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old. It has a taste he finds endlessly versatile and a complexity that raises his dishes to another level.

“It’s an exciting experience to come up with a new creation that perfectly harmonizes with this whisky,” says Au Yeung. “It pairs quite well with smoked dishes like our lychee wood barbeque pork, smoked chicken with tea leaves, or even our smoked bean curd skin veggie roll appetizer. It also works well with seafood with the right sauce. This whisky is full of delightful fragrances, like orange and caramel, that help me to fully bring out the essential flavors of Cantonese cuisine.”

Chef Au Yeung recently created Whisky-Braised Shrimp Moçambique, a seafood dish especially designed to complement the layered complexity of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old. The giant shrimp from East Africa contain particularly rich tomalley in their heads that matches perfectly with the whisky’s smooth, rounded taste. The chef sautés the heads in a light sauce, simmers the shrimp shells to produce a flavorful soup, and cooks the shrimp meat until almost done, reserving a portion for his accompanying sweet and chewy lotus-root shrimp cakes. The dish’s finishing touch is a sauce of sweet rice wine and butter. For the fullest enjoyment, Au Yeung recommends that guests first take a sip of The Macallan Double Cask and then a bite of shrimp or shrimp cake.

“Just as braised dishes in Cantonese cooking require a great deal of time to bring out the flavors, so good whisky takes many years to mature,” says Chef Au Yeung. “And from this perspective, aren’t they both like a beautiful crystallization of time?”

誉珑轩 JADE DRAGON

Braised Moçambique Red Shrimp with Fermented Glutinous Rice in Shrimp Sauce 虾汤酒糟烩莫桑比克红虾 +

The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old The Macallan 双雪莉桶18年单一麦芽威士忌

→ Executive Chef Kelvin Au Yeung 行政总厨欧阳文彦

虽然粤菜拥有悠久的历史传统，但它的内涵仍在不断更新与 扩充之中。澳门米其林三星中菜厅「誉珑轩」行政总厨欧 阳文彦便是其中一位精于发掘粤菜风味的主厨。他最近发 现 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌无可比拟的深厚层次， 也许能与他的菜式交织出更迷人多彩的风味。

「想出一道配搭威士忌的菜式，是个有趣的挑战。」欧 阳师傅表示：「我觉得威士忌确实跟『烟熏』颇匹配，例如 我们的果木叉烧、茶皇熏鸡，甚至是前菜烟熏素鹅；海鲜也 合适，但必须靠酱汁及烹调火喉配合。这支威士忌充满各种 悦人的香气，如柑橘香、焦糖香，帮助我轻松地带出好粤菜 必备的香气。」

这次他特意想出一道海鲜新菜「虾汤酒糟烩莫桑比克 红虾」，作为 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌的配衬。 来自非洲东部的大红虾，头部虾膏非常浓稠，那质感刚巧与 这支威士忌的圆润感如出一辙。于是，欧阳师傅想到先将虾 头蘸薄脆浆略炸；虾壳熬成浓汤；虾肉煎至七成熟，部分更 会做成莲藕虾饼，增添鲜甜爽弹的口感。他于席前浇淋的酱 汁，用糯米酒酿、黄油等煮成，则为这道鲜味满溢的菜式画 龙点睛。欧阳师傅带笑坦言，先喝一口威士忌，再吃虾肉、 虾饼，客人的味觉体验才会更上一层楼。

「好的威士忌需要十数年时间蕴酿；粤菜的『烩』同样 需要长时间成就风味。从这角度看，两者不就是时间的结晶 品吗？」两者的协同效应美妙得让人惊讶，但当意会到欧阳 师傅配搭背后的巧思，想来谁都会留下深刻的印象。

In recent years, as diners have grown increasingly curious and chefs increasingly adventurous, pairing Chinese dishes with whisky has become something of a culinary trend. A particular favorite among many top Cantonese chefs is The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old.

Extraordinarily rich and full-bodied, this whisky is doubly aged in handcrafted casks of American and European oak seasoned with dry Oloroso sherry. The result is a masterpiece with an amber honey color and a nose of dried fruit, ginger, toffee, orange, and hints of clove and nutmeg. Its palate offers rich raisin and sultana flavors, with notes of caramel, vanilla, and ginger balanced by wood spice and zesty citrus. The smooth finish of warm oak spice and ginger turns to lingering sweet orange.

In an exclusive series of dining events titled StarStudded Pairings, The Macallan recently partnered with Michelin-starred Jade Dragon, Lai Heen, and Zi Yat Heen to feature their original dishes specially created to complement this exceptional single malt.

近年愈来愈多客人对威士忌好奇，也有更多主厨挑 战以威士忌作为配酒。传奇威士忌品牌The Macallan 的双雪莉桶18年威士忌，更为不少顶尖粤菜厅主厨所 爱。

The Macallan 双雪莉桶18年单一麦芽威士忌是一 款传世佳作，透过将蒸馏酒填装在美国及欧洲两种雪 莉橡木桶中陈年，蕴酿出鲜明香甜的味道。它具有蜂 蜜般的琥珀色，带有干果、生姜和太妃糖的香气，以 及浓郁的橙子味，还有淡淡的丁香和肉豆蔻风味。口 味方面，除了葡萄干和无核小葡萄味之外，还带有焦 糖、香草和生姜的香气，与木质香料和柑橘风味相得 益彰。橡木辛料和生姜味的余味会停留在口腔中，再 转变为甜橙味。

为了寻探琥珀酒液与粤菜相配的加乘滋味，誉珑 轩、丽轩和紫逸轩三家米其林星级餐厅的主厨创作了 三道菜式，衬托平衡圆润的The Macallan双雪莉桶18 年威士忌，以匠心谱写一段段「星馔酩缘」。

“IN THE PAST FOUR OR FIVE YEARS,” says Chef Jackie Ho Honsing of Macau’s one-Michelin-starred Lai Heen, “increasing numbers of customers have asked for suitable recommendations of appetizers, main courses, or desserts to accompany their whisky selections.” To keep up with this growing trend, Ho regularly samples a variety of whiskies, peated sherries, and bourbons to add to his already encyclopedic knowledge of spirits and their flavors.

He finds that the intensely rich taste and complex spiciness of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old makes it an especially ideal partner for his red meat and game dishes. A case in point is his newest main course, Braised French Quail Fillet with Nepalese Quinoa & Grilled French Quail Thigh with Himalayan Rose Rock Salt, which perfectly matches with this unique single malt.

Chef Ho starts his dish with the finest wild French quail and masterfully employs the classic Cantonese technique of braising by first

掌管澳门米其林一星粤菜餐厅「丽轩」的澳门丽 思卡尔顿酒店中餐行政总厨何汉升师傅，同样乐 于接受「威士忌配中菜」的挑战。他分享说：「在 这四、五年，越来越多客人请我就着带来的威士 忌，推荐合适的头盘、主菜或甜点。」何师傅闲 余时偶尔浅酌，就像威士忌，泥煤、雪莉桶、波 本桶，他均不设限，希望扩建自己的品酒资料库。 依据他的味觉经验，威士忌拥有强烈酒精 感，时带辛辣感，若然配搭红肉如牛肉、鹌鹑， 则堪为完美的互补。因此，何师傅特意想出肉类 主菜「藜麦烩法国鹌鹑胸脯拼盐烧鹌鹑腿伴喜马 拉雅玫瑰岩盐」，作为 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年威士忌的配衬。他认为这支威士忌味道格外丰 富、醇厚，喝得出佳酿经过繁复双桶工艺及岁月 的淬炼，因此配搭菜式必须有丰郁的肉汁。

麗軒 LAI HEEN

腿伴喜马拉雅玫瑰岩盐

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The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old

The Macallan 双雪莉桶18年单一麦芽威士忌

Chinese

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simmering the quail bones with carrots, celery, and Beijing scallions. The quail breast is then gently stewed in the stock to amplify the meat’s aromas. For the finishing touch, the breast is paired with quinoa as a pleasingly chewy complement to the dish. Ho uses a salt-grilled method for the quail legs, first partially pan-frying them and seasoning with Himalayan rose rock salt to preserve the meat’s juiciness and flavor.

The chef recommends that diners relish his creation slowly, savoring the way The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old subtly yet distinctly enhances and intensifies the flavors of the quail. “First take a bite of quail breast,” he says, “before sipping the whisky and letting its aroma linger in the mouth. You’ll find this adds greatly to the richness of the next bite of quail.” In Chef Ho’s opinion, pairing fine Cantonese cuisine with The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old is like dancing a sensuous tango – it takes two brilliant partners who perform as one, with effortless grace and elegance.

他选用法国野生鹌鹑，更巧用粤菜的 经典作法「烩」– – 先取鹌鹑骨架、甘笋、 西芹、北京大葱等熬汁，再把汁烩进鹌鹑 胸脯，深化了肉香，亦配搭藜麦粒增强嚼感。 至于腿部，他则采用「盐烧」手法，把腿 部半煎炸、以玫瑰岩盐调味，既为保留肉汁， 也为烘托出其原味。

何师傅带笑建议，享用这道主菜时必 须放慢心情，感受威士忌让肉香「由淡入浓」 的细微变化，「先吃鹌鹑胸脯肉，然后喝一 口威士忌，让徘徊嘴里的酒韵，丰富接下 来的腿肉香气。」在他眼中，完美的威士忌 配菜境界，就仿如一支探戈舞 – – 不争也不 抢，由始至终保持优雅而和谐的姿态。

Braised French Quail Fillet with Nepalese Quinoa & Grilled French Quail Thigh with Himalayan Rose Rock Salt 藜麦烩法国鹌鹑胸脯拼烤鹌鹑

Executive Chef Jackie Ho Hon-sing 中餐行政总厨何汉升

SOME CHEFS FOLLOW TRADITION when matching spirits with food, while others, like Executive Chinese Chef of Four Seasons Hotel Macao Charles Cheung, develop a personal approach. “There’s a saying in the industry that goes ‘red meat with sherry, white meat with bourbon,’” he says. “But I think it’s more complex than that – we also have to consider the spices and cooking methods used, and even the temperature of the dish is a factor.”

Chef Cheung, who loves trying exotic things, was already experimenting early in his career by marinating foie gras in whisky to take advantage of its fruity notes to eliminate any gaminess in the liver and enhance its appealing aromas. He also enjoys the creative challenge of pairing food and whisky by discovering the right combinations of seasonings.

Dishes with salty components, intense flavors, or a creamy consistency, Cheung believes, pair particularly well with whisky, especially with an exceptional one like The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old. Its layered richness is also perfect with braised or stewed dishes that feature hearty flavors. “And,” he says, “its mellow amber honey color harmonizes with the tones of a braise’s caramelized sauce.”

A good example is Zi Yat Heen’s Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek in Dark Soy Sauce. A range of seasonings, including cinnamon, star anise, shallots, and light soy sauce, is featured, and a “secret ingredient” – apple – is what, he says, “creates a wonderful balancing effect with the whisky.” Incredibly tender and fragrant and accompanied by select French spinach, the flavorful beef cheek becomes an ideal match for The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old.

He also finds that this masterpiece marvelously accompanies an array of his seafood specialties, including A5 Kagoshima Wagyu Beef Cubes with Japanese Pumpkin Sauce, Stuffed Crab Claws, and Mapo Tofu Boiled Lobster. With a willingness to defy convention, Cheung continues to expand the possibilities of pairing his imaginative creations with the captivating flavors of The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old.

关于「威士忌配中菜」的金科玉律，執掌米其林一星粤菜餐厅「紫逸轩」的澳 门四季酒店中餐行政总厨张志才说：「我曾听闻『红肉配雪莉桶、白肉配波本桶』， 但我认为还是有很多因素影响最终搭配结果，特别是所用的香料及烹调方法， 甚至是食物的温度。」

张师傅在上海长大，喜欢寻探新事物。他曾用威士忌腌鹅肝，借酒的果香 辟除膻味，同时增加香气。他认为相较于葡萄酒，威士忌酒精感强烈，酸度不明显， 作餐酒配对的话，会较有挑战性，但是用适合的香料，就能让两者互补。

对此，张师傅的见解是：举凡带咸的食材，以及重奶味的菜式，都很适合 配搭威士忌；至于拥有丰郁香气的 The Macallan 双雪莉桶 18 年单一麦芽威士忌，

张师傅说它正好配口味较重的菜式，如红烧、炖煮类。令人惊喜的是，他连视 觉亦一并考虑：「你可察觉酒杯里优雅的淡琥珀酒色，与经过焦糖化所形成、色 泽诱人的红烧汁，就是落在同一个色调盘上？」

这次他决定用「红烧东坡和牛脸肉」为配衬，当中用桂皮、八角、干葱头、 生抽等香料作酱汁，再放去膜的和牛脸肉慢煮接近三小时，直至带筋部位完全 变软、入味，最后以法国菠菜垫底。边喝酒、边吃这道菜，感受香浓的味道， 而且没有半点油腻感；张师傅分享他的秘密食材 – – 酱汁里的苹果，「它与这支

威士忌，好像能产生奇妙的化学作用！」

张师傅认为牛肉、海鲜同样能搭配这支曼妙的威士忌，前者有餐厅主餐牌 上的「汁烧日本南瓜独蒜炒 A5 鹿儿岛和牛粒」，后者则有「煎酿蟹钳」及「麻 婆豆腐煮龙虾」。看他努力打破威士忌配中菜的流行公式，大概他希望用行动表 述：「餐酒配菜」不变的金科玉律，就是永远不会有牢不可破的局限。

Cristal Blue Shrimp, Tomatoes and Beetroot, Horseradish Sorbet paired with The Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica Cristal蓝虾、原种番茄、甜菜根以及

辣根雪酪搭配The Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica威士忌

醇香交织

harmony in macau

The

THE MACALLAN, legendary maker of Highland single malt Scotch whiskies, hosted a media event in March at glamorous L’ ATTITUDE at Morpheus Macau to launch The Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica, a remarkable whisky that celebrates the world of coffee.

Talented Whisky Maker Steven Bremner, The Macallan’s creator of The Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica, has produced a unique release that pairs harmoniously and intriguingly with coffee. His inspiration was the Ethiopian arabica bean, selected because Ethiopia is known as coffee’s birthplace and because arabica is said to be the first cultivated coffee species.

传奇苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌品牌 The Macallan 早 前于澳门摩珀斯的风雅厨举办了一场媒体发布会， 推出向咖啡致敬的非凡威士忌 The Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica。

BY ROBERT BURKLEY •

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DADO KIT

Steven’s tasting notes indicate that, with an ABV of 44 percent and a rich crema color, The Macallan Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica reveals aromas of tiramisu, cappuccino, gingerbread, raisins, almonds, sweet oak, and vanilla; a palate of espresso, dark chocolate, raisins, tiramisu, blackberry, vanilla, Brazil nut, and sweet oak; and a long, balanced, sweet finish with nuances of dark-roast coffee.

A select group of experts, notes Steven, was also behind the exceptional whisky’s development: “Exploring the world of coffee with our masters in the industry, who shared their knowledge, creativity, and love for their art, was both an education and an inspiration. There are many parallels between the approaches in creating both incomparable whisky and coffee. Each requires unique skills and craftsmanship to achieve depth and complexity of taste, and both worlds aim to deliver an extraordinary sensory experience.”

Kenean Asefa Dukamo, part of a family Ethiopian coffee growers, shared his knowledge of how the arabica bean is cultivated using responsible farming techniques. Andrea Allen, named Best Barista in the United States, offered her expertise in creating incredible coffee experiences. World-renowned latte artist Dhan Tamang contributed his extensive knowledge of sensory perceptions and the art of the perfect coffee serve. Scottish coffee roaster Lisa Lawson shared her experience of the roasting process, including techniques, beans, and flavors. And Professor Jonathan Morris offered his vast knowledge of the roots of coffee, its various styles, and how it has grown into a global phenomenon.

The Macau media launch event for The Harmony Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica began with a cocktail reception. It was followed by a sumptuous five-course L’ ATTITUDE lunch menu paired with a selection of The Macallan’s extraordinary single malts.

The Macallan 的酿酒大师 Steven Bremner 从来自于埃塞俄比亚的阿拉比卡咖啡豆取得灵感， 创作出 The Harmony Collection 第二年度推出的 佳酿－ Inspired by Intense Arabica， 让威士忌的醇美与咖啡香气完美调和。 埃塞俄比亚被誉为咖啡的发源地，而 阿拉比卡也公认是人类最早培植出来 的咖啡豆品种。

Steven 将这款威士忌的色泽描述 为咖啡泡沫的金黄色。从品酒鉴赏可 知，其酒精浓度为 44%，具有提拉米苏、卡布奇 诺、姜饼、葡萄干、杏仁、橡木甜香和香草的香气； 口感近似浓缩咖啡、黑巧克力、葡萄干、提拉米苏、 黑莓、香草、巴西坚果和橡木的甜味；尾韵悠长 和谐、甜美，带有深焙咖啡的细微甜香韵味。

除了 Steven 之外，The Harmony Collection II 的开发过程，还要归功于一群来自咖啡专业领域 的大师。他表示：「很荣幸能与各位大师一起探索 咖啡的世界，他们与我们分享丰富的知识、创造 力及对艺术的热爱。威士忌与咖啡的制作上有许 多相似之处，都需要专业与精湛的工艺，才能创 造风味的深度与广度，带来非凡的感官体验。」

埃塞俄比亚咖啡种植家族的 Kenean Asefa Dukamo，与 Steven 分享利用可持续耕作技术来 栽培阿拉比卡咖啡豆的相关知识。被评为美国最 佳咖啡师的 Andrea Allen，分享了打造无与伦比

的咖啡风味体验的方法。知名的拉花大师 Dhan Tamang 与 Steven 谈到与咖啡相关的感官体验， 以及如何煮出一杯完美的咖啡。苏格兰咖啡豆烘 焙师 Lisa Lawson 分享烘焙咖啡豆的经验，例如技 术、咖啡豆的种类及风味。专门研究咖啡历史的 Jonathan Morris 教授与 Steven 分享广博的知识， 包括咖啡的起源、风味，以及咖啡如今在全球社 会扮演的角色。 当日的发布会以鸡尾酒会拉开序幕，随后是 隆重而温馨的媒体午宴。举办场地为备受赞誉的 风雅厨，主厨精心准备了丰盛的五道菜，同时搭 配多款精选 The Macallan 威士忌。

Macallan unveils the second edition of The Harmony Collection.

PRESENTED BY THE MACALLAN

Pairs of chefs from award-winning Melco and Black Pearl diamond-rated restaurants will create a series of ten lavish banquets during 2023.

MELCO STYLE HAS LAUNCHED The Black Pearl Diamond Restaurants Gastronomic Series 2023, part of the Macau Melco Group brand’s continuing commitment to offering diners the best of regional cuisines. Ten award-winning Melco restaurants in Macau are to be matched with ten Black Pearl Restaurant Guide diamond-rated restaurants from mainland China in one-on-one collaborations by duos of acclaimed chefs, who will craft ten specially themed banquets over the course of this year.

一直以来，澳门新濠旗下的众多食府始终着力为 宾客奉上风采各具的珍馐美味。「新濠风尚」更带

BY ROBERT BURKLEY

来了中国澳门首个与内地餐饮业界之间的重量级 合作 ––2023 黑珍珠钻级餐厅巡宴邀 请内地十家《黑珍珠餐厅指南》钻级 餐厅，与十家新濠获奖餐厅一对一携

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

The series is designed to give Macau diners the opportunity to discover regional specialties from across China and also to acquaint the greater China market with the fine-dining restaurants of the Melco Group. As a sumptuous expression of Macau’s

手，打造十场独一无二的主题飨宴。 这段巡宴之旅旨在以珍馐美馔为 桥梁，连通内地与澳门的餐饮文化交 流。一方面，饕客可经由缤纷多彩的 味觉体验，深入感受和了解中国丰富的饮食文化； 另一方面，意在扩大新濠旗下餐厅在大中华地区 的影响力，同时促进澳门「传承、创新、交流」

delicious times ten

← Takakura Sushi Roll with Sea Urchin, Chopped Bluefin Tuna Toro, Caviar, Salmon Roe and Japanese Egg Yolk

高仓寿司卷配海 胆、蓝鳍吞拿鱼腩 泥、鱼子酱、三文 鱼子配日本蛋黄 →

Chef Ryuya Nagase and Chef Takenori Noguchi

长濑龙哉及 野口武则

diverse food culture, the event will highlight themes of “inheritance, innovation, and exchange,” further enhancing the city’s stature as a UN-designated Creative City of Gastronomy.

Each of the banquets will be jointly designed by the head chefs of collaborating restaurants, and menus will feature both signature items and hidden treasures not found on the restaurants’ regular menus.

Held at Macau’s Jade Dragon at City of Dreams on June 23 and 24, the first sold-out banquet, “An Exquisite 6-Diamond Feast,” featured Chef Kelvin Au Yeung of Jade Dragon and Chinese Executive Chef Xu Kunlei of Yong Fu in Shanghai. Both restaurants have been awarded three diamonds by Black Pearl.

“A Pearly Feast,” the second sold-out event on July 15 and 16, teamed Executive Chef Otto Wong of Macau’s one-Michelin-star Pearl

的多元美食文化，延续澳门作为「创意城市美食 之都」的美誉。

每场飨宴都邀请了内地黑珍珠钻级餐厅掌舵 名厨与新濠餐厅总厨共同设计菜单。除了呈现双 方餐厅的招牌菜式外，还加入众多神秘菜式。 首场飨宴「六钻玉馔金味」于 6 月 23 日和 24 日在澳门新濠天地誉珑轩举行，行政总厨欧 阳文彦与上海甬府行政总厨徐昆磊联袂，两间同 为黑珍珠三钻的餐厅呈现六钻极致盛宴。第二章 节的飨宴以「珍馐瑰宝」为题，于 7 月 15 日和 16 日在澳门新濠影汇的米其林一星餐厅玥龙轩举 行，由餐厅总厨黄炜皓搭档 2023 黑珍珠一钻餐 厅苏州柏悦酒店西洲轩行政副总厨（中餐）虞晓

MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT / DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Wild Caught Turbot Fish Fillet with Braised Cabbage and Chiu Chow Fermented Daikon 野生多宝鱼柳， 焖椰菜，潮式菜脯

Dragon and Chef Calvin Yu of Xizhou Hall at Park Hyatt Suzhou, awarded one diamond by Black Pearl.

The upcoming third banquet in the series on September 23 and 24 will see Chef Michel Kristensen of Nordic-French fine-dining restaurant L’ATTITUDE at Morpheus, City of Dreams, joining forces with Chef Sean Yue of Voisin Organique (Black Pearl one diamond), a stylish farm-totable restaurant in Shenzhen offering contemporary Chinese cuisine.

Exclusive dishes co-created by the two chefs will include “Carabinero Prawn and Golden Osciètre Caviar, and White Pearl Oyster, Shaoxing Wine and Green Apple” as well as “Morel and Matsutake Tart with Fresh Sliced Mushroom, Green Pine Ash, White Chocolate, Pear.” Signatures will include “Slow-Cooked Wagyu Beef Short Ribs with Pickled White Asparagus and Black Truffle” from L’ATTITUDE and “Wild-Caught Turbot Fish Fillet with Braised Cabbage and Chiu Chow Fermented Daikon” from Voisin Organique.

On October 28 and 29, the fourth dinner event will see Chef Takenori Noguchi of Tenmasa at Altira Macau welcoming Chef Ryuya Nagase from Japanese restaurant TAKAKURA (Black Pearl one diamond) in Beijing.

Signature and specialty dishes will include “Bluefin Tuna Toro, Alfonsino, Shark Skin Flounder and Kuruma Prawn Sashimi” and “Maki Prawn, Japanese Whiting, Kyoto Jumbo Shimeji Mushroom and Kagoshima Wagyu

Tenderloin with Truffle Tempura” from Tenmasa, as well as “Wild Sea Bream Carpaccio with Assorted Autumn Vegetables“ and “Takakura Sushi

Roll with Sea Urchin, Chopped Bluefin Tuna Toro, Caviar, Salmon Roe and Japanese Egg Yolk” from TAKAKURA

The remaining six dinner events will be rolled out beginning early 2024, with details to be revealed at a later date.

祥。接下來的第三场巡宴「雅钻华法汇」将 于 9 月 23 日和 9 月 24 日在新濠天地摩珀斯 酒店的北欧风法馔餐厅风雅厨举行，联乘主 打「农场到餐桌」的中式料理的深圳黑珍珠 一钻餐厅 Voisin Organique，餐厅更设有一個 有机农场。

风雅厨总厨 Michel Kristensen 与 Voisin Organique 行政总厨岳巍一同打造各道菜式， 包括西班牙红虾、Osciètre 金鱼子酱与白珍珠

生蚝、绍兴黄酒、青苹果，以及羊肚菌及松茸 挞、鲜蘑菇、松叶粉、白朱古力、香梨蓉。招 牌菜式分別是风雅厨的慢煮和牛肋骨、腌白芦 笋、黑松露，还有 Voisin Organique 的野生多 宝鱼柳、焖椰菜、潮式菜脯。

第四章为「和锋钻极宴」，由澳门新濠锋 天政总厨野口武则及来自北京的黑珍珠一钻日 本餐厅高仓 • 摩登割烹之行政总厨长濑龙哉合 力呈奉，将于 10 月 28 日和 29 日举行。两位 总厨以招牌菜敬献贵宾，包括天政的蓝鳍吞拿 鱼腩、金目鲷、鲛鲽鱼与虎虾刺身；竹虾、沙 追鱼、京都巨型玉蕈菇及黑松露鹿儿岛县和牛 牛柳天妇罗。高仓的招牌菜则是薄切鲷鱼配秋 季野菜，以及高仓寿司卷配海胆、蓝鳍吞拿鱼 腩泥、鱼子酱、三文鱼子配日本蛋黄。

余下六场四手盛宴将于明年初开始陆续 登场，详情将容后揭晓。

Chef Sean Yue and Chef Michel Kristensen 岳巍及Michel Kristensen

MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT / DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Wang Yong 王勇

seasonal surprises

With culinary ingenuity and the freshest of ingredients, Chef Wang Yong creates four stellar menus each year.

BY JOEY CHEANG & RAY CAI

JIN SHA AT

HOTEL HANGZHOU at West Lake has been helmed for thirteen years by Chef Wang Yong, whose behind-the-scenes dedication has vaulted the restaurant to its current celebrated status. It was recently awarded its first Michelin star as well as three diamonds by the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide 2023.

Born in Jiangxi and trained in Shanghai, Chef Wang is known for keeping a low profile, which is right in keeping with the hotel’s appealingly understated elegance. While in Shanghai, the young Wang was already being feted for his culinary skills and inventiveness, two factors that today continue to raise Jin Sha to new heights.

Central to the hotel’s essence is an ethos that values the natural world. West Lake’s famous Quyuan Fenghe park is nearby, and Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake offers breathtaking scenic views year-round. This close relationship to nature is mirrored in Jin Sha’s prodigiously creative seasonal menus developed and executed by Wang and his team.

This April, Wang’s annual Chef’s Banquet cleverly employed seasonal greens and vegetables to represent the spring scenery found south of the Yangtze, with

FOUR SEASONS

Chilled Geoduck Clam Slices, Lotus Roots, Chili Sauce 酸辣汁藕带炝加蚌

MARK HAMMONS, COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HANGZHOU AT WEST LAKE

fava beans, Chinese tapertail anchovies, clams, and river eels offering up flavors that hinted at the invigorating spring landscape. A central tenet of Jin Sha’s philosophy is that dishes should serve to highlight the qualities of each season through both culinary creativity and the liberal inclusion of fresh ingredients at their peak.

Building on Jin Sha’s roster of famed signature dishes, which include braised pork, crispy chicken, and flower conch, Chef Wang continues to explore new creative avenues, offering delightful surprises with each seasonal menu. An example is a dish inspired by a stir-fry of toon sprouts and eggs that is served every spring in homes throughout the Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions. Looking to present toon sprouts in a less traditional manner, Chef Wang left behind the commonplace pan-fried and stir-fried modalities. After a year of work with his team, he hit on a novel cold dish concept, inventing a recipe of which he says he is particularly proud.

As to how he manages to design four seasonal menus

今年是王勇师傅执掌杭州西子湖四季酒店 米其林一星餐厅金沙厅的第十三个年头， 餐厅自正式开业以来，已获颁众多重量级 奖项及肯定，包括被评为黑珍珠餐厅指南 三钻餐厅。作为一手打造金沙厅的幕后功 臣，中餐行政总厨王勇这位出生江西、习 厨上海的名厨，一如这座充满江南韵味的 知名酒店般含蓄尔雅。

其实早在上海时，王勇师傅就已凭借 炉火纯青的技艺蜚声厨坛，来到杭州的金 沙厅，他别出心裁的创意令餐厅再创新高。

杭州西子湖四季酒店毗邻西湖绝景 曲院风荷，季节的变化融入每一处细节 –– 桌畔墙边的一草一木，波光潋滟的湖水， 木桨拨开水面的节奏，都传递出江南烟雨 的精妙之处。王勇师傅与团队精心准备的 金沙厅菜单，把这四时景象浓缩进了精致 的碗碟杯盘里。

今年四月的「主厨私宴」上，王勇师 傅再次用时令食材，呈现了一幅别开生面 的江南春景图。无论是蚕豆、刀鱼这些江 浙时令食材，抑或象拔蚌、河鳗这些餐桌 上的常客，经他的设计烹调，都注入了焕 发春天气息的风味惊喜。事实上，每道菜 都潜藏着王勇师傅定下的哲学基调 – – 在 四季大框架下不断尝试和创作，融入当季 专属的食材菜品，以展现四时独有的季节 氛围。

红烧肉、脆皮鸡，或者花螺等餐厅招 牌菜早已不胜枚举，王勇师傅却始终没有 停下创新的脚步，他更喜欢创作时令、与 众不同的配搭，而这也是他烹调的价值体 现。例如每到初春时节，江浙一带有一道 惯用香椿嫩芽和鸡蛋同炒而成的家常菜， 王勇师傅却希望将它呈现出「非传统认知 中」的样貌。为此，他和团队花了一年时 间进行尝试和试验，跳出煎、炒这些热菜 的范畴。最终，他以一道凉菜风格打造的 「香椿蛋」，为今年的春季菜单添上一笔重 彩，它也成为了王勇师傅在新菜单里最为 满意的一道菜品。

要定时定制春夏秋冬四季菜单、制作 应季时鲜菜式、准备新年家宴及一年一度 的「主厨私宴」，还要管理四十人的厨房团

Durian Ice Cream

Fermented Glutinous Rice Ice Cream

a year filled with new dishes in addition to overseeing the day-to-day affairs of Jin Sha and its forty-member culinary team, organizing the restaurant’s Chinese New Year banquet, and hosting the annual Chef’s Banquet, Wang’s answer is simple: “I just enjoy it.” Outside of time taken to exercise and occasionally unwind with friends after work, Chef Wang’s life is completely devoted to Jin Sha. Even while traveling, he is on the hunt for the next new ingredient.

On his social-media accounts, food is front and center, occasionally complemented by photos of flowers or scenic landscapes. For Wang, the four seasons have become not just outward events in the natural world but also continual sources of inspiration that lead to inner transformation and exciting creative discoveries.

队，大家或许很难想象王勇师傅是如何能十三 年如一日地稳定发挥。对此，他笑着回答：「纯 粹就是喜欢。」

坚持健身、偶尔在工作结束后和好友小聚 酒叙，除此之外，他的生活几乎都围绕着金沙 厅的事务展开。即使出门游历，也不忘寻觅新 的食材。

在王勇师傅的个人社交媒体上，除了美食 的照片，余下的就是各种的花草和自然景观。 对他而言，四季早已和他融为一体，就像他灵 活贯通的烹饪技艺一般，师法自然，而双手纵 横间，便是心之所至、味之所在。

Boiled Sea Whelks, Rice Wine 古越陈酿煮花螺

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HANGZHOU AT WEST LAKE (3)

trendiness and fusion

“WE’RE NOT YOUR TYPICAL Chinese restaurant,” says Chef de Cuisine Tony Ye of Sui Tang Li, a gem set amid Shanghai’s burgeoning contemporary dining scene.

Different from traditional, often staid, hotel restaurants, Sui Tang Li stands apart, thanks in part to its design and an ambience that imbues the charming space with a sense of metropolitan sophistication.

Located in The Middle House, one of four distinctive hotels in The House Collective of Swire Hotels, Sui Tang Li is entered by a spiral staircase. Guests discover a bold décor that reflects the restaurant’s emphasis on modern dim sum selections and reimagined Chinese classics.

随堂里中餐厅厨师长叶剑师傅说：「这里不是一家 常规概念的中餐厅。」有别于传统酒店餐厅，随堂 里的整体设计和氛围营造，都展现出大都会的精 致和摩登。

在太古酒店旗下居舍系列的上海镛舍，从旋

BY RAY CAI

Chef Ye began his culinary journey as dim sum chef at the Jing’an Hilton, Shanghai’s premier hotel at the time. Impressed by the refined techniques of the Cantonese dim sum tradition, he took every opportunity to polish his skills. Broad and inclusive study would lead to proficiency in a gamut of cooking techniques for preparing dishes from dim sum to stir-fries and braises. He was later invited to work in Singapore and then returned to China to serve as sous chef at Jin Sha at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou and Yong Yi Ting at Mandarin Oriental, Shanghai.

Shanghai cuisine, paired with Jiangsu and Zhejiang flavors, serves as Ye’s culinary foundation. He then skillfully introduces other styles and techniques. From starters and sides like his famous 5J Ham Xiao

Long Bao and Crunchy Hazelnut Foie Gras Iberian Ham Shallot Oil

Cake to entrees like Braised Mandarin Fish and Jin Hua Cai Rice Ball in Chicken Broth, one theme that stands out across the menu is two or three seemingly unrelated ingredients combined to create something

转楼梯拾级而上到达二楼，随堂里宛 若大都市隐世所在，摩登精致的內装 设计呼应餐厅的一系列精致点心和令 人赞不绝口的创新菜品。

叶师傅早年进入当时上海顶尖的 静安希尔顿酒店，司职点心制作。尽管在外界看 来，白案始终不及红案吃香，但他却为粤菜点心 制作之精细折服。「喜欢看、喜欢钻研」的他，更 是抓住一切机会学习和吸收不同的烹饪技巧，这 也为他日后精通红白两案打下了基础。叶师傅之 后受邀前往新加坡工作，归国后先后在杭州四季 酒店金沙厅、上海文华东方雍颐庭担任副厨师长， 这些见闻和经历都是他以后担任随堂里主理人时 的宝贵累积。 叶师傅选择以经典本帮和江浙风味为底，融 合其他菜系的风格和技法，以体现这座城中精品 酒店海纳百川的气质。从 5J 火腿小笼包、脆糖榛

果鹅肝酱伊比利亚火腿葱油饼，到金汤春笋煨桂 鱼配马兰头汤圆，在随堂里的菜单上，这样融合 不同菜系技法、却又充满江浙韵味的菜品比比皆 是。看似毫无关联的食材，在他的手中化身精致 菜品，并成为客人耳口相传的餐厅招牌。

At Shanghai’s Sui Tang Li, Chef Tony Ye never stops innovating.

自在创新

truly unique. The key, says Ye, is never to imitate. This unparalleled creativity has steadily garnered the restaurant positive word of mouth and a committed customer base.

For new dishes, Chef Ye and his team draw inspiration from a range of culinary traditions while always remaining committed to using the freshest ingredients. This year, for example, Chef Ye hoped to include Duck Soup with Loquat on his summer menu. But rather than compromise on using only fresh fruit, Ye decided to shelve the carefully designed dish when he discovered that loquat is only in season for a short period.

The birth of every new dish requires a sustained period of trial and error, and nothing is guaranteed. Even for established dishes, Ye advises his team to encourage customer feedback and make adjustments if necessary, because “maybe we can make our dishes even better.”

During days off, he drives across China seeking undiscovered regional producers and ingredients. New finds are often the catalyst for the development of Sui Tang Li’s delightful seasonal menus.

For him, the creative possibilities at Sui Tang Li are limitless. And Shanghai diners are proving eager to explore each new revelation. Says Ye, “Here you’ll find a sense of trendiness and fusion that demands a menu that is continually innovating.”

每次设计新菜，叶师傅都会和团队反复尝试，从不同的菜系中汲 取灵感，同时将大江南北的食材融入其中，以呈现最佳的面貌，但许 多时候，食材本身的应季性却会让一切轻易归零。今年，叶师傅原本 想在夏季菜单里加入一道以枇杷入馔的水鸭汤，无奈待到暑日正盛， 枇杷早已下市，这道精心设计的菜品最终只能束之高阁。

事实上，每一道新菜的诞生，都需要反复的尝试和研究，即使是 菜单上已有的菜品，他也会要求团队虚心接受客人的反馈，并且进行 适当的调整。「或许我们能做得更好呢？」叶师傅如是说。平时的休息 日或是休假，他会开车深入不同产地寻觅优质食材。毕竟，好的食材 是决定菜品品质的关键之所在，而这些不同的食材也常会成为他设计 新菜的灵感源泉。

对叶师傅来说，随堂里还有许多新的可能等着他去拓展和实现， 这也是一众上海饕客所乐见的。他说：「随堂里有时尚的一面，也有融 合的一面。如果特意为它定下某个菜系风格，都会有种违和感。」

← 5 J Ham Xiao Long Bao 5 J火腿小笼包

→ Chef de Cuisine Tony Ye 厨师长叶剑

↓ Salted Egg Yolk Char Siu, Kimchi 满月叉烧指橙泡菜卷

Cannelloni Style of Premium Yashio Trout and Fromage Blanc with Beurre de Montpellier 上选八潮鳟佐法式奶酪及蒙贝利耶黃油卷

Nestled amid the mountainous beauty of Hakone, The Hiramatsu Hotels & Resorts Sengokuhara was designed to deliver an extraordinary dining experience. § 箱根山色环绕的仙石原平松度 假酒店，为您带来最顶级的用餐体验。

HIRAMATSU, since its founding by Chef Hiroyuki Hiramatsu in 1982, has garnered global recognition in its development of Japanese-European cuisine. The company operates twentysix restaurants and cafes and seven hotels in such places as Tokyo, Sapporo, Kanazawa, Osaka, Kyoto, and Okinawa, offering French, Italian, and traditional Japanese kaiseki fine dining.

In 2016, Hiramatsu opened its first hotel, in Kashikojima, with a restaurant serving French cuisine that makes lavish use of the area’s seafood. Since then, the company has opened five more small luxury hotels vaguely inspired by the European auberge and each centered on a unique dining concept.

The Hiramatsu Hotels & Resorts Sengokuhara, with twenty rooms equipped with private hot spring baths, is located in the scenic Sengokuhara district on a spacious green-forested property, every inch of which is designed to foster the enjoyment of Head Chef Suguru Urushibara’s exquisite food. “Here, you can immerse yourself in the world of gourmet cuisine while being surrounded by nature,” says the chef.

平松（Hiramatsu）自 1982 年由厨师平松 宏之创立以来，在日欧料理上的成就广受 全球认可。平松旗下的七间酒店和二十六 间餐厅，提供法国菜、意式料理和传统日 本怀石料理，据点广布东京、札幌、金泽、 大阪、京都、冲绳等城市。

2016 年，平松于日本的「贤岛」

（Kashikojima）开设第一家饭店，附设餐厅 提供以海鲜为特色的法国菜。后来，平松 受欧洲乡村旅店（auberge）启发，开设了 五间小型豪华酒店，每间都有各自的料理 特色。 「仙石原平松度假酒店」位

BY MIYAKO KAI • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Chef Urushibara honed his skills in the kitchens of Hiramatsu’s affiliated restaurants across Japan, specializing in French and Italian food. He draws inspiration from Hakone’s natural beauty to present a cuisine that embodies both the essence of the region and his own creative individuality.

His Cannelloni Style of Premium Yashio Trout and Fromage Blanc with Beurre Montpellier is a treasure trove alive with the vibrancy of spring. The chef selects a trout known for rich flavor surpassing that of salmon and for its delicate freshwaterfish taste. “Yashio is an improved breed of rainbow trout developed in my hometown in Tochigi Prefecture,” he says. “It lacks roe, which enhances its flavor and allows for raw consumption. The highest-grade Premium Yashio trout is nurtured using a specialized feed with olive oil and has a high content of oleic acid. This results in a subtle sweetness.”

Slices of the raw trout are accompanied by a tartare mixture of rainbow trout roe, fromage blanc, and dill that is wrapped in a vegetable and fruit gelatin sheet designed to resemble sashimi, giving the dish the appearance of cannelloni.

Chef Urushibara skillfully interprets the natural

于风景如画的仙石原地区，提 供二十间配备私人温泉浴池的 客房。住客可以在绿林环绕下 品尝主厨漆原卓的精致料理。

漆原主厨说：「在这里，您可以 在大自然的怀抱中享受顶级味觉飨宴。」

漆原主厨曾于平松旗下多间餐厅服 务，累积法式和意式料理的经验与技巧。

漆原主厨从箱根的自然美景中获得灵感， 进而在个人料理风格中融合了地方特色。

漆原主厨的上选八潮鳟佐法式奶酪及 蒙贝利耶黃油卷，让舌尖感受春天的生机 盎然。料理所使用的八潮鳟，以其细腻的 淡水鱼风味闻名，风味之丰富更胜鲑鱼。

漆原主厨说：「八潮鳟是虹鳟的改良品种， 以我的故乡栃木县最为知名。八潮鳟没有 鱼卵，不只提升了鱼肉风味，也让八潮鳟 适合生食。养殖方面，最上选的八潮鳟使 用含有橄榄油的专用饲料，鱼肉带有高含 量的油酸，为鱼肉增添微妙的甘甜风味。」

搭配八潮鳟生鱼片的是由虹鳟鱼卵、 法式奶酪、莳萝制成鞑靼内馅的海鲜卷， 再以蔬果明胶片包裹，让海鲜卷有生鱼片 般的外观造型。

漆原主厨巧妙地在餐盘上诠释了箱根 仙石原地区的自然环境，打造微型自然景

Tagliolini with Amago (Land-Locked) Trout, Bamboo Shoots, Sea Lettuce Seaweed, and Watercress 天魚竹笋海藻水田芥意大利扁面

主厨选用最新鲜的海陆食材，来料理天鱼竹笋海藻水田芥意大利扁面（第

environment of Hakone’s Sengokuhara region by crafting a miniature landscape on a plate. The dish features blood oranges combined with hollowed-out zucchinis, petite verve lettuce, asparagus, and yellow and purple carrots that are lightly blanched and scattered. It is accented by olive powder, reminiscent of soil, and a flavorful butter-and-herb sauce.

Diminishing catches from the sea due to environmental changes have spurred interest in river fish from various regions in Japan. Chef Urushibara’s Tagliolini with Amago (Land-Locked) Trout and Bamboo Shoots with Sea Lettuce Seaweed and Watercress stars a specialty river fish from Nara prepared as confit and complemented by lightly sautéed bamboo shoots and rapeseed flower stems for texture. The dish is finished with clam-based broth incorporating the look of the river algae that

观。餐点的摆盘设计以血橙为主，搭配栉瓜、 迷你莴苣、芦笋及川烫过的黄色和紫色胡萝卜， 颇具特色。调味上使用橄榄粉末为菜肴增添了 土壤的风味，香草黃油酱也让整体风味更富有 层次。

近年环境变化导致海洋渔获减少，令市 场对于日本各地河鱼的需求日益增长。漆原主 厨的天魚竹笋海藻水田芥意大利扁面，便是以 油封手法烹制奈良特产河鱼，并搭配炒竹笋和 油菜花茎增添口感。这道菜以蛤蜊汤底收尾， 结合了天鱼赖以为食的河藻型态，并以海苔和 水田芥菜泥点缀。

For his signature Tagliolini with Amago Trout (photo, p.169), Chef Urushibara selects the freshest ingredients from land and sea.

169页）。

the amago feeds on and with accents of nori seaweed and watercress purée.

Hakone is said to be home to nearly as many plant species as the entire United Kingdom. Among these are wild mountain vegetables, or sansai, known since the Jōmon period and found on Japanese dining tables for long ages. Lauded in ancient Japanese poetry, they represent the changing seasons and the bounty of nature. “Perhaps in other countries, no one had the intention to eat them,” smiles Urushibara. “Sansai have a gentle bitterness that is unique, different from the bitterness of celery and others. They go well with the umami of seafood.”

The chef’s Crispy Grilled Red Snapper with Quinoa and Wild Vegetables Risotto Sauce Vin Jaune captures the harmony-with-nature spirit of Japan.

据说，箱根拥有相当于整个英国的植物 物种数量。其中，「山菜」（Sansai）自縄文时 代便广为人知，经常出现在日本的餐桌上。古 代日本诗歌常把山菜当作歌咏的对象，有四季 更迭和自然丰饶的象征意义。漆原主厨微笑说 道：「不是每个地方的人民都把山菜当作食物。 山菜有一种温和而独特的苦味，不同于芹菜等 蔬菜，非常能衬托出海产的鲜味。」

漆原主厨的脆皮烤金目鲷佐藜麦山菜黄 酒酱炖饭，以烤金目鲷、蛤蜊、昆布细沫及鲜 美的海胆，完美诠释日本文化「与自然合一」 的精神。

Chef Suguru Urushibara 主廚漆原卓

Crispy Grilled Red Snapper, Served with Quinoa-andWild-Vegetable Risotto with Sauce Vin Jaune

脆皮烤金目鲷佐藜麦

山菜黄酒酱炖饭

It features perfectly grilled kinmedai, or golden-eye snapper, tender hamaguri clams, a foam made from kombu dashi, and the richness of sea urchin.

Spring sansai found in the Hakone region lend distinction to this luxurious seafood medley. Warabi, or bracken fern; taranome, or budding wild parsley; and fukinoto, or butterbur sprouts, are sautéed with garlic and added to the quinoa risotto. Dried tomatoes bring acidity, and the yellow leaves of the slimy-textured urui, or hosta plant, add a colorful and flavorful accent. Completing a dish that embodies the fusion of contemporary Japanese and global flavors is a sauce made with French vin jaune Hiramatsu’s top pastry chef, Kenta Ochiai, creates desserts that “aim to express the seasons and colors of Hakone while maintaining simplicity and visual elegance.” His Strawberry Field - Strawberry and Vanilla Millefeuille indulges diners with white chocolate and richly flavored Champagne-andstrawberry sauce. The red strawberry compote, the white vanilla parfait, and the green matcha crumble echo the brilliant colors of early spring in Hakone.

Petit Four is an assortment of macarons, chocolates, and other delectables complementing tangy raspberries, blackcurrants, lemon, and passion fruit. These dainties are elegantly presented on serving pieces featuring traditional Hakone yosegi zaiku marquetry patterns made with woods from trees native to Hakone.

在箱根地区的春季山菜的衬托下，海 鲜的风味更加突出，而藜麦炖饭中加入蕨菜、 楤芽、蜂斗菜的蒜炒山野菜，佐以干番茄增 添酸味，以及口感黏滑、菜叶金黄的大叶拟 宝珠增添色彩与风味的层次，最后以法式黄 酒（Vin Jaune）制成的酱汁收尾，为日本传 统山菜料理加入跨文化元素，发掘更多料理 的可能性。

平松酒店的甜点师落合健太秉持简约 优雅的视觉美学，致力于在餐盘上重现箱 根的四季样貌，发展出独特的甜点之道。他 的甜点料理「草莓园」– – 草莓香草千层酥、 白巧克力、香槟草莓酱，令人垂涎欲滴。草 莓的红、香草冰淇淋的白、抹茶碎粒的绿， 缤纷色彩好比箱根早春的一片荣象。

Petit Four 以马卡龙、巧克力，搭配覆 盆子、黑醋栗、柠檬和百香果，堆叠出酸甜 交杂的滋味。甜点以箱根原生树种木材制成 的器皿盛装，鲜果在箱根寄木细工图案的衬 托下呈现优雅的视觉效果。

Grilled Lamb en Croûte with Cherry Blossom Flavor Sauce, Served with Lasagna of Lamb 樱花酱烤羊肉配羊肉千层面

← Seasonal Macarons, Pâte de Fruits, Chocolates, Pound Cake 时令马卡龙、法式软糖、 巧克力、磅蛋糕

→ Strawberry Field –Strawberry and Vanilla Mille-feuille 「草莓园」–草莓香草千层酥

“OUR FOCUS IS PRIMARILY on an exceptional dining experience,” says Junko Iwasaki, who is okami, or general manager, of The Hiramatsu Hotels & Resorts Sengokuhara. “It all began as a small French restaurant in Tokyo that later evolved into one of Japan’s finest gourmet restaurant groups. In 2016, we expanded into the luxury hotel industry.”

On grassy plains at an altitude of seven hundred meters, Sengokuhara is about a hundred kilometers from Tokyo in the Hakone hot spring area. With origins dating to the year 757, the region gained fame in 1736 when hot spring water was drawn from the Owakudani valley. Hakone went on to become Japan’s first international resort and is today a top tourist destination. “Guests can relax mind and body in the hot springs in their rooms before or after meals,” says Iwasaki, “or savor wine on the terrace under the starry sky and enjoy their stay without being pulled back into reality.”

The hotel comprises a main building with eleven guest rooms and

仙石原平松度假酒店「女将」（总经理）岩﨑 纯子说：「平松从东京的一家小型法国餐厅起 家，发展为全日本最顶尖的餐饮集团之一， 一路上秉持提供顶级用餐体验的经营理念。

2016 年，平松进军了豪华酒店产业。」

仙石原位于海拔七百米高的草原上，位 于距离东京约一百公里的箱根温泉区。仙石 原地区最早的起源可追溯至西元 757 年，后 来 1736 年从大涌谷引出温泉水后开始广为人 知。箱根后来发展成全日本第一个国际度假 胜地，现今是众多高级旅游景点之一。岩﨑 经理说：「客人可以在用餐前后在客房泡泡温 泉，放松身心，或在星空下的露台上品尝葡 萄酒，暂时远离纷扰的日常生活。」

Junko Iwasaki 岩﨑纯子

HOT SPRING HOSPITALITY 温泉桃源

a residence building with nine more. Displayed throughout the hotel are antique furniture and paintings, including works by Picasso.

Because the hotel is fundamentally a restaurant, its entire staff at the time of its opening was made up of former restaurant employees with zero hotel experience. Their background, however, has given them an attentiveness to customers’ needs that sets them apart. Every day, all staff from kitchen, service, and accommodations gather for a meeting dedicated to the guests. Information is exchanged and roles are adapted as necessary to provide the warm and inviting atmosphere that characterizes the hotel.

“What we envision,” says Iwasaki, “is not a typical auberge with basic facilities but rather luxurious accommodations and service that complements the world of a fine-dining restaurant, akin to a Western version of a traditional Japanese onsen ryokan, or hot spring inn. Ours can be considered a unique form that stands out even on a global scale.”

仙石原平松度假酒店的主要设施包括主 大楼、十一间客房，以及一座提供九间客房 的大楼。酒店内陈列着古董家具和艺术作品， 包括毕卡索的作品。

仙石原平松度假酒店以餐厅起家，开业 初期团队成员大多没有酒店服务的经验。不 过，从零开始的背景也让他们对客户需求有 更高的关注。厨房、服务和住宿部门每天都 有固定会议，进行讯息沟通和工作交接，只 为了让宾客享受平松温暖和宜的独有氛围。 岩﨑经理说：「我们的定位不是一般的 乡村旅馆，而是提供奢华体验的豪华酒店， 还有世界顶级的精致餐厅，是颇具西方色彩 的日本传统温泉旅馆，在全球独树一格。」

Antique furniture and artworks accent the guest rooms’ contemporary decor. 房间内的古董家具和艺术品映衬内装的当代风格。

无尽灵感

unlimited inspiration

At Peter, Executive Chef Stefan Trepp of The Peninsula Tokyo expresses the joy of creation with a trove of exquisite Japanese ingredients.

BY MIYAKO KAI

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Japanese Tuna (tataki, carpaccio, avocado, caviar, mimosa sauce)

日本金枪鱼tataki、生牛肉薄片、

牛油果、鱼子酱、含羞草酱

加拿大龙虾馅饼配帕马森奶酪泡沫

TO FULLY EXPERIENCE TOKYO’S DINING SCENE, it’s not enough to stick to Japanese food. While there have long been many local masters of various cuisines, today, growing numbers of foreign chefs with unique backgrounds are coming to Japan, a place they often see as a dream-come-true playground for working in imaginative ways with the freshest and most impeccably raised seasonal products.

Among these culinary explorers is Swiss-born Stefan Trepp, executive chef of The Peninsula Tokyo, a prominent star in the global constellation of prestigious Peninsula hotels. Definitely on the short list of chefs to watch, Trepp relocated to Japan in November 2022 after an extensive career at leading five-star hotels in Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, including his most recent post as executive chef at The Dorchester in London.

“Since I started working here,” says Trepp, “I’ve been surrounded with this philosophy of care for details and serenity in the environment that makes me focus deeper. Japan’s jewel-like ingredients are a source of unlimited inspiration. At Peter, The Peninsula Tokyo’s Japanese grill restaurant, I thought of featuring one of this country’s signature ingredients, tuna. So I designed an appetizer starring the best tuna in Japan, which comes from Oma, the legendary tuna capital.”

Trepp first marinates the fish in soy sauce and then sears it lightly and thinly slices it to magnify its exalted umami flavor. The tuna’s rich creaminess is enhanced by chopped fresh avocado. Contrasting crunchiness is added with slices of baby radish, and bits of orange provide a refreshing citric sweetness. Fresh herbs and edible flowers lend their graceful notes to this beautiful harmony.

As a French-trained chef, Trepp shows off with his reinterpretation of the classic lobster thermidor in refined Peter style. “Its original

想要深度体验东京的多元餐饮风貌，单靠品尝传 统日式料理是不够的。虽然当地有擅长各种料理 的厨艺大师，然而今时今日，仍有不少来自不同 国家、具备独特背景的厨师专程来到日本。他们 视此地为实践梦想的游乐场，发挥无尽的想像力， 把手上最新鲜的顶级当季食材发挥到极致。

在众多厨艺探索者中，Stefan Trepp 就是其 中一位。他出生于瑞士，是全球知名的半岛酒店

体系中的一颗耀眼新星。Stefan 在东京半岛酒店

任职行政主厨，堪称当今最瞩目的几位名厨之一， 他的职涯足迹遍布欧洲、中东和亚洲的顶级五星 级酒店。他早先于伦敦的 The Dorchester 酒店担 任行政主厨，后于 2022 年 11 月移居日本。

Stefan 表示：「开始在这里工作后，我常处

于日本那种柔静、精细敏锐地钻研细节的氛围中， 这让我高度集中，思维更深刻。日本的顶级食材 更让我有源源不绝的灵感。」

「在东京半岛酒店的日式烧烤餐厅 Peter， 我想要主打金枪鱼此种象征日本的食材，所以我 设计了一道用日本最顶级的金枪鱼为主角的开胃 菜。我使用的金枪鱼来自东北地区著名的金枪鱼 重镇青森县的大间町。」

Stefan 首先用酱油腌制鱼肉，然后轻度炙 烧并切成薄片，来强化浓郁的鲜味。金枪鱼丰富 的油质香气与切碎的新鲜酪梨相辅相成。樱桃萝 卜薄片的爽脆口感营造出绝佳反差，橘子果肉带 出清爽的柑橘甜味，新鲜的香草与可食用的花朵 则让这道美妙的佳肴更优雅和谐。

Canadian Lobster (thermidor, tartlet, parmesan cheese espuma)

charming flavors are all here inside the savory Parmesan béchamel sauce,” he says. “Delicate butter mushroom foam complements the texture and meatiness of the lobster ragout.”

The menu’s meat offerings make the most of Japan’s famously flavorful beef. “We select from the top grades of Wagyu available nationwide,” says Trepp. “We’re able to pinpoint the perfect cut for each dish.” For one of his specialties, the chef chooses “simply scrumptious Hida beef to showcase its wonderfully delicious balance of lean meat and adequate fat.” It is accompanied by fresh vegetables from Takayama, in the same region where the beef originates. Asparagus and bamboo are roasted on a charcoal grill and served along with sliced baby turnips and okahijiki, a coastal plant with delicate saline flavor and crisp texture.

Peter’s reimagined Western cuisine, prepared with largely Japanese ingredients and influenced by local food culture and aesthetics, places it among Tokyo’s most sophisticated restaurants. “Guests can immerse themselves in a total dining experience,” says Trepp. ”They are embraced by warm and meticulous service and they dine against a backdrop of Tokyo viewed from the twenty-fourth floor. During the day, there’s the Imperial Palace Gardens and abundant greenery, and after dark, the city is star-studded with lights. Is there anything more to add?” he asks with a smile.

作为一位受法国厨艺训练的主厨，Stefan 以 精致的方式创作出「Peter 版本」的经典法式焗龙 虾。他说：「这道菜原有的迷人风味都在鲜美的帕 玛森白酱中得以保留，细致的黄油蘑菇泡沫提升了 龙虾肉的质地与口感。」

肉类菜肴中也有日本最著名的鲜美牛肉。 Stefan 指出：「我们从全国各地的顶级和牛中挑选， 每道菜运用的肉片都是最合适的首选。」在 Stefan 的其中一道拿手菜中，他选用滋味绝妙的飞驒牛肉， 展现出瘦肉与脂肪之间的完美平衡。这道菜搭配来 自高山市的新鲜蔬菜，而高山市也是飞驒牛肉的来 源地。芦笋与竹子在炭火上烧烤后，搭配切片的樱 桃萝卜与无翅猪毛菜（一种沿海植物，具有细腻的 盐味和清脆的口感）共同享用。

Peter 以崭新手法诠释西式料理，并以日本食 材为基底，展现当地饮食文化与美学的底蕴，成为 东京最具特色的餐厅之一。Stefan 表示：「宾客能 沉浸在舒适精致的用餐体验当中。我们用热情细心 的服务来接待宾客，让他们在 24 楼的高空中一边 欣赏东京的景致，一边享用美食。白天能俯瞰皇居 花园以及绿意盎然的植物；入夜后，城市里的灯光 璀璨耀眼。还有比这更面面俱全的享受吗？」

Gifu Hida A5 Tenderloin 岐阜飛騨A5牛里脊

Executive Chef 行政总厨Stefan Trepp

每位抵达酒店的客人都会受到专属管家的热烈欢迎

敞开心胸

open hearts

Guests immerse themselves in Khmer culture while giving back to the community at Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas.

“OUR PHILOSOPHY IS open doors, open hearts,” says General Manager Ewan Taylor of Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas in Siem Reap, Cambodia. “We live by that philosophy, and we hope others will love the concept too.”

The stunning property in the elegant French quarter of the city has a particular focus on supporting and investing in the local community. A percentage of room charges helps fund ten-month courses at Shinta Mani Foundation’s Hospitality Training School, which teaches all aspects of hotel operations.

圣塔玛尼吴哥及本斯利精选泳池别墅酒店（Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas）位

于柬埔寨暹粒，酒店经理 Ewan Taylor 表示：「我们

的理念是开门营业、敞开心胸。这是我们的宗旨，希 望其他人也会欣赏这个概念。」

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HAMMONS AND ELISABETH RUANGKRITYA

Students receive free tuition, study materials, uniforms, and meals, along with a stipend to help support their families. “The Hospitality Training School started in 2004,” says Taylor, “and we invest in young adults from disadvantaged

这家令人赞叹的酒店位于该市优雅

的法国区，致力于扶持与投资于当地社 区。酒店会从住房费用当中，拨出一定比 例来资助圣塔玛尼基金会酒店管理学校为 期十个月的酒店营运课程。学生无需缴纳 学费，便可得到学校提供的教材、制服及 膳食，还能领到照顾家人生活起居的津 贴。Ewan 说：「圣塔玛尼基金会酒店管理学校创始 于 2004 年。我们资助来自弱势社群的年轻人，提供 相关技能培训。我们的数百名毕业生都找到很不错的 工作，而这对他们的社区也有积极的连锁效应。」

Every guest arriving at Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas is greeted by their personal Bensley Butler

Angkor Wat is a fifteenminute drive from the hotel

著名景点吴哥窟距离酒 店只有15分钟车程

backgrounds, giving them skills. Hundreds of our graduates get wonderful jobs – which has positive knock-on effects for their communities as well.”

The resort offers accommodations ranging from pocket-friendly to super-luxe. “It’s three hotels in one,” explains Taylor, “with three levels of rooms. We’re the only resort with such a choice, meaning we can cater to everyone, from millennials who like the funky quirkiness of Shinta Mani Angkor to honeymooners who want privacy and their own pool villa with a secluded tropical garden to families who prefer the large pool at the Bayon Wing.”

Another wing of the Shinta Mani Foundation is a working organic farm, around twenty-seven kilometers from the property. It runs educational projects, teaching sustainable and ethical farming practices to help local families eat better and healthier, and also grows fresh produce used at the hotel.

Executive Chef Chanrith Van specializes in modern Cambodian cuisine, combining skills and techniques honed around the world with passion for his country’s classic dishes. “The cuisine we serve is not fusion,” he says. “We keep the original taste, the real Cambodian flavor, and this makes us different. We might take something simple, like street food or a classic, but we take it up a level. We use local ingredients, jackfruit and scallops from the Cambodian seaside as well as cashews from the local plantations. We even use Cambodian rice wine. There’s an incredible dish where we age local beef in butter for twentysix days to make it really tender before cooking. Our

该酒店提供从经济实惠到极致奢华等各种房型的住宿选择。 Ewan 表示：「这是三间酒店的综合体，提供三种等级的房型。我 们是唯一提供多种选择的酒店，能够满足各种客群的需求，如喜 欢圣塔玛尼吴哥的时髦独特的千禧世代，或是想要隐私及拥有静 谧热带花园的独栋泳池别墅的蜜月夫妻，和希望在巴戎大泳池尽 情玩耍的家庭，不同客群都能在此找到最合适的住房选择。」

圣塔玛尼基金会另一个分部是一座有机农场，离酒店大约 二十七公里。这座农场推行各种教育项目，教授可持续和符合道 德的农耕方法，协助当地家庭吃得更好、更健康，同时也种植酒 店使用的新鲜食材。

行政主厨 Chanrith Van 擅长烹饪现代柬埔寨菜肴，将自己在

世界各地磨练的技能及对柬埔寨经典菜肴的热情相结合。他表示： 「我们提供的不是融合料理，而是保留原汁原味，也就是真正的 柬埔寨风味，这点也让我们脱颖而出。我们选择简单的料理，例 如街头小吃或经典菜式，然后将其升华。我们主要使用当地食材， 比方说波罗蜜、柬埔寨海边的扇贝、来自当地种植园的腰果，甚 至还有柬埔寨米酒。我们还有一道无人能出其右的料理，就是将

Banteay Srei village jackfruit curry dip Banteay Srei村的菠萝蜜咖喱蘸酱

Executive Chef Chanrith Van 行政主厨 Chanrith Van

aim is for our guests to come away talking about how they experienced fine dining in Cambodia.”

This tranquil corner of Siem Reap enjoys a historic location, moments from the riverside and just fifteen minutes from the temples at Angkor Wat. Guests can further explore Khmer culture with Chef Chanrith’s popular cooking classes at the property. “We bring our guests to the old city market so they can see local ingredients and the people who are selling them,” he says. “Guests help select produce that we use to make traditional Khmer dishes together. When they go home, they can share their new cooking skills and understanding of Khmer cuisine with family and friends.”

Summing up the experience that guests may expect at Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas, Taylor remarks, “There’s a different type of travel, and this is us, all about sustainability. We’re not predictable – we’re unusual and quirky – and that’s what we want everyone to realize.”

本地产的牛肉浸泡在黄油中熟成二十六天，使其在烹 饪前变得柔软无比。我们的使命就是希望宾客离开柬 埔寨后，都对这里的美食念念不忘。」

这个宁静的暹粒角落具有历史意义，距离河岸 不远，离吴哥窟的寺庙也只有十五分钟路程。宾客能 透过主厨 Chanrith 举办的烹饪课程进一步探索高棉文 化，此课程向来备受欢迎。他说：「我们将宾客带到 旧城市场，让他们亲眼看看当地的食材及与贩卖食材 的摊贩互动。宾客会帮忙挑选我们用来制作传统高棉 菜肴的食材。他们回家后，就能与家人朋友分享新学 到的烹饪技巧，以及他们对高棉料理的理解。」

总结宾客在酒店能够享受到的体验时， Ewan 表示：「大家能尝试新的旅行方式，到我们酒店体 验这种可持续的生活体验。『感到惊喜、独一无二、 绝无仅有』，这正是我们希望大家能感受并记住的 特质。」

Wildest Dreams

One of the world’s most extraordinary luxury retreats helps to defend an unspoiled corner of Cambodia.

AND PHOTOGRAPHY

WORDS

BY MARK HAMMONS AND ELISABETH RUANGKRITYA

AMPSITES AND PAMPERING rarely appear in the same sentence, but at Shinta Mani Wild, the all-inclusive luxury-tented camp set among some eight hundred acres of Cambodia’s lush South Cardamom Forest, guests can enjoy first-class service and one-of-a-kind spa treatments in the middle of an untouched wildlife corridor.

It is all the result of an ambitious dream realized by the creative powers behind the Bensley Collection. In 2010, Shinta Mani bought a parcel of pristine wilderness in a remote corner of Cambodia and since then has worked closely with the Cambodian government and Wildlife Alliance NGO to create an adventure paradise for guests as well as a sanctuary for indigenous flora and fauna.

The experience begins with an exhilarating 400-meter zip-line ride over the Tmor Rung River, through the rainforest, and toward a fastflowing sheet of water that heralds the Raging Big Sister Falls. Riders can reach speeds of over 50 km/h before reaching The Landing Zone for check-in at an area on the West Tower of the property, equipped with a welcoming bar. Within minutes, guests swap safety harnesses for French vintage chairs and enjoy views across the river valley as mixologists prepare a range of expertly crafted welcoming cocktails laced with local botanicals.

“The idea behind this property came from Jackie Kennedy’s trip here in 1967 to visit King Sihanouk,” says General Manager David Steyn. “It’s Bill Bensley’s imagined version of her going on a jungle safari.” For Steyn,

圣塔玛尼野奢酒店位于柬埔寨南豆蔻山脉国家 公园，占地八百多英亩。露营和精致奢华在这 里画上了等号，回归自然的同时也可以享受无 微不至的服务，以及绝无仅有的野外生态廊道 水疔体验。

圣塔玛尼野奢酒店是设计师 Bill Bensley 的系列作品之一，大胆的想像就这样在大师的 巧手下化成现实。2010 年，Shinta Mani 在柬 埔寨野外买下了一块原始荒地，自此便和柬埔 寨政府和民间野生动植物联盟密切合作，致力 于打造本土动植物与观光客共存的冒险天堂。

这一趟沉浸自然之旅从长达四百米的高 空滑索展开，住客会以时速 50 公里的速度穿 越托茂隆河、雨林及 Raging Big Sister 瀑布， 并抵达「着陆区」。住客于设有酒吧的「西塔」 办理入房手续，一转身，住客已卸下滑索的安 全设备，在迎宾酒吧的法式复古风格座椅上一 览河谷风光，品味度假村精心准备、充满当地 风味的草本调酒。

度假村总经理 David Steyn 说：「度假村 的设计理念来自 1967 年 Jackie Kennedy 拜访 施亚努前国王 Sihanouk 的旅程。Bill 想象她参 加了一趟丛林探险之旅。」对在南非乡村长大

Terrace of Tent No. 2, the “Jackie Kennedy” Tent Jackie Kennedy营帐的阳台

First checkpoint on the way to Headquarters 酒店的内部装潢精致 且富设计感。

而富有狩猎旅游经验的 David 而言，圣塔玛尼 非常适合狩猎旅游。他表示：「我一直都对户 外活动保有极大热忱，从小就很喜欢土地宽广、 有野生动物出没的地方。」

圣塔玛尼野奢酒店提供十五种特色营帐 供旅客选择，每一座营帐皆座落于原始岩壁之 上，四周环绕着瀑布水声，有如大自然的背景 音乐。每个营帐的风格虽各有特色，不变的是 精致奢华而富有设计感的内装，以及为前来度 假放松的旅客提供最高规格的隐私。David 说： 「不论是哪一个营帐，都有和野生动物、Jackie Kennedy 或生态保育有关的主题。」

在这些营帐附近，同时栖息着濒临绝种 的珍稀生物。度假村设有生态维护站，防止盗 猎者破坏生态资源。David 介绍说：「这也是 圣塔玛尼野奢酒店存在的原因 – – 为了保护南 豆蔻山脉国家公园的生态而存在。我们与野生 动植物联盟合作，将部分所得用于生态维护站 的营运。度假村会负责维护站的所有支出，而 维护站的工作是尽可能维护森林生态。」

圣塔玛尼野奢酒店也为当地居民带来工 作机会，度假村有七成的员工来自邻近村落。

The “Jackie Kennedy” Tent Jackie Kennedy营帐

Foraging for the evening’s dinner 住客可自行搜集晚餐的食材。

who grew up on a ranch in South Africa and has a professional background in safari guiding, Shinta Mani Wild is the perfect fit. “I’ve always had a passion for the outdoors, an innate love for wide-open spaces and animals in particular.”

Guest accommodations at Shinta Mani Wild come in the form of fifteen stunning tents that blend into a landscape sculpted from ancient rock and equipped with a natural soundtrack provided by flowing waterfalls. Each tent has its own distinctive style and ambience, but they all share stylish interior design, luxurious fittings, and the utmost privacy for a restful and rejuvenating stay. “Each of them has a theme around either safaris, Jackie, or conservation,” says Steyn.

These temporary homes coexist with some of the world’s most endangered species. “This is also why Wild exists – for the preservation and the conservation of the Cardamoms,” says Steyn. The luxe ecocamp supports a ranger station, whose team discourages loggers from ravaging the forests for their hardwoods and prevents poachers from decimating the wild animal population. “We work hand in hand with Wildlife Alliance to do that. A portion of every stay goes directly towards funding our substation here. So, we cover all the costs, and what they do is protect as much of the forest as they can.”

The arrival of the camp in this remote part of Cambodia has provided new employment opportunities for the local community, with 70 percent of Shinta Mani Wild’s staff coming from a nearby village. And while some of the camp’s employees previously had made a living from hunting or the illegal cutting and sale of hardwoods, they are now part of helping to safeguard the local environment.

Each visitor is assigned an “adventure butler,” who not only responds to every service request but also specializes in a particular

Guests can practice sunrise yoga on the zip-line tower or zip-line in to breakfast.

住客可在滑索高塔进行 日出瑜珈，或利用高空 滑索前往享用早餐。

Raging Big Sister Falls

Raging Big Sister瀑布

For the signature 25-km dinner, all ingredients and herbs are sourced from the area on the morning of the meal. 在度假村方圆二十五公里内的食材和香料，会被用来制作著名的「二十五公里晚餐」。

sport or activity and makes suggestions for exciting outings and adventures. Activities could be as gentle as taking a kayak along the Tmor Rung river to watch native birds or as adrenaline-charged as a trip with a troop of armed forest rangers as they patrol the area to confiscate guns and chainsaws or rescue baby elephants from snares. A more serene option might be teaming up with the resident naturalist to hunt for orchids and collect data on different species in the vicinity of the camp. Whatever adventures they choose, guests are able to immerse themselves fully in the unique ecosystem of a stunning and remote part of the planet.

Shinta Mani Wild’s watchword is sustainability. No large trees, for instance, were cut down during the building phase. “Bill was very, very adamant,” says Steyn. “You’ll see the pathways all move around, and you’ll see certain rooms with trees growing right through them.” Waste is kept to a minimum, with no single-use plastics on the site, and the carbon footprint is minimized by using local produce as much as possible.

Guests may choose the popular “25-km dinner,” whose ingredients come from within that radius of the camp. For a hyper-local focus, daily foraging expeditions bring interesting plants to the kitchen and bar.

“Cooking here is a bit different,” says Executive Chef Bernard Hartzenberg.

“Our guests can opt to collect ingredients for themselves. Either I accompany them to show them which plants are edible or my colleague Wodud does – he’s an expert in foraging. At night, we cook the ingredients into a

值得一提的是，有一部分员工过去曾以涉猎或 非法砍伐维生，现在转而成为保护地方生态的 一员。

每一名房客都会分配到一位「探险管家」， 从打理所有住房上的需求，到陪同进行户外探 险或提供相关建议，服务一应俱全。度假村提 供种类多元的户外活动，可以轻松如搭乘橡皮 艇沿托茂隆河观赏野生鸟类，也可以刺激如跟 随护林队监控森林盗猎情形，或解救被陷阱捕 获的幼象。如果偏好静态的活动，住客可以跟 随当地生物学家的脚步，在度假村周围收集兰 花等各种生物的资料。不管选择如何探索这个 野生天堂，圣塔玛尼野奢酒店都能为住客精心 准备最能深入感受当地独特魅力的特色活动。 圣塔玛尼野奢酒店以「可持续经营」作 为核心理念，度假村设施皆是顺应自然环境而 建造。David 说：「设计师 Bill 相当坚持建筑要 与环境共生共荣。你会发现度假村里的道路会 为了绕开树而蜿蜒，房间则常常依傍着树木而 建。」建造过程中，设计师尽可能把废弃物的 产量降到最低，且不会使用一次性塑胶制品， 并且采用当地建材以减少碳足迹。

feast for them.” Foraging expeditions might lead to collecting edible leaves or digging up delicious wild potatoes or even harvesting red ants, a local delicacy, all of which Hartzenberg and his team use to create a menu of imaginative dishes.

The camp rates for guests are all-inclusive, meaning that not only are food and drinks included but so are excursions and Shinta Mani Wild’s indulgent spa treatments. “We are creating experiences that immerse you in these raw wild spaces, awakening your senses and getting you to connect with nature,” says Wellness Director Solveig Gevers.

Spa treatments make the most of the surroundings: reflexology takes place in a waterfall pool, hot stone massages can be delivered on a hilltop. “When we can and when the opportunity is there, we do want to take you into the river,” says Gevers. “For example, in the dry season, we do yoga on top of the big sister waterfalls and beautiful, big flat rocks.” Guests can be sure that no chemicals will be involved in their wellness journey. Tonics made from medicinal herbs and spices, many from the local area, are combined with traditional Khmer treatment techniques to deliver pure wellness experiences designed to further connect guests to the beauty of the natural surroundings.

Just a ninety-minute drive from Phnom Penh, this paradisial destination has set itself some big conservation goals, with each visitor becoming a participant. “The beauty of Shinta Mani Wild,” says Steyn, “is that Bill Bensley was able to actually do everything that he’d ever dreamed of doing in a property. It really is his ode to sustainability, creativity, and luxury.”

在这里，住客可以享用具代表性 的「二十五公里晚餐」，品尝度假村方圆 二十五公里内的当地美味。菜单和酒品所 使用的食材，皆由每日「野外搜集」而来， 落实度假村「当地化」的精神。行政主厨 Bernard Hartzenberg 说：「在这里用餐很不 一样。住客可以收集自己要吃的食材，并 由我或同事 Wodud 从旁协助判断，哪些植 物可以食用，Wodud 可是这方面的专家。 到了晚餐时间，我们会将收集来的食材烹 煮成一道道料理。」搜集过程中可能会采集 可食用叶菜、挖掘野生马铃薯，甚至捕捉 当地人习惯食用的红火蚁 – – 这些都是完成 Bernard 的「狂野」菜单上不可或缺的食材。

住宿费用不只包括餐饮膳食和酒水的 费用，也包括了所有户外行程以及顶级水 疗服务。野外水疗体验区充分利用了当地 环境的特性，像是在瀑布下的水池进行反 射疗法，或在山丘上进行热石按摩。康体 总监 Solveig Gevers 说：「我们希望住客能 打开感官并与大自然结合，深入体验这里 的自然环境。如有机会，我们很想让住客 体验一下河流区的活动。例如旱季的时候， 我们会在瀑布顶端壮丽的岩石平台上进行 瑜伽体验。」在整个净化身心的旅程中，住 客不用担心会接触到任何非天然的成分或 物质。像是传统高棉疗法中饮用的气泡水， 也是以当地药材和香料制成，住客在净化 身心的同时，也能亲身体会当地纯净之美。

圣塔玛尼野奢酒店距离柬埔寨首都金 边，只有约一个半小时的车程，每一位来 此度假的住客都成为了当地生态保育的重 要参与者。 David 说：「圣塔玛尼野奢酒店 之所以格外动人，在于 Bill Bensley 对设 计的奇思妙想，都得以在这里实现。圣塔 玛尼野奢酒店是他展示其奢华、创意、可 持续融于一体的大作。」

General Manager David Steyn

总经理David Steyn

身心和谐

harmonizing health

Wellness Director Chanyapak Suwankantha of Chiva-Som Hua Hin Thailand explains to TK how body, mind, and spirit achieve harmony in the hands of her world-class team of experts. § 泰国华欣 ChivaSom 的康体总监 Chanyapak Suwankantha 分享由她与酒店世界级专家团队，如何让宾客的身心灵达 到和谐完满的理想状态。

How did you become wellness director of Chiva-Som Hua Hin?

I studied to be a nurse in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and, after qualifying, I practiced for a few years and found myself drawn to the wellness industry. Later, I studied hotel management at a prestigious school in Switzerland and then took a job in the spa division of another international hotel group.

In 2014, I joined Chiva-Som as manager of Niranlada medi-clinic. In 2020, I was promoted to resort operations manager, overseeing the wellness team and facilities. Now, as wellness director, I am responsible for guiding the philosophy of the wellness department as well as innovating and expanding our holistic approach.

What’s your personal definition of wellness?

It’s a state of being that I call health harmony by which our health aspects flow freely and are synchronized. This is a continuous process. It’s about choosing and learning a pathway to wellness and, once you are there, using self-discipline to maintain it. There needs to be consistency – working on your wellness journey is a continuous process.

What would you say are the aspects of a healthy life?

There are three aspects – body, mind, and spirit. The body aspect involves taking care of yourself physically – eating healthy food, getting enough sleep and the right sort of exercise, avoiding injury and disease as far as possible, and seeking appropriate medical help when necessary. The mind needs social relationships, good healthy bonds with others. It also needs to be kept free of stress, and it needs stimulation. As for spirit? If you take care of body and mind, if they sing together and go well together, then spirit will follow.

Aside from these personal aspects, what external environmental factors have an impact on wellness?

One of the core values of Chiva-Som concerns the environment and sustainability. How can you have wellness in a toxic environment? We have a big problem with climate change and pollution. And

您是如何成为华欣 Chiva-Som 的康体总监？ 我在泰国清迈接受护士培训，取得护士资格 后执业了几年，发现自己深受健康养生产业吸引。 后来，我在瑞士的一所著名学校学习酒店管理，然 后在另一家国际酒店集团的水疗部门任职。2014 年，我加入 Chiva-Som，担任 Niranlada 医学诊疗 空间的经理。2020 年，我升职为度假村营运经理，

负责管理康体团队与设施。现在我身为康体总监， 负责实践康体部门的理念与方针，以及革新并扩展 我们全方位的养生服务与措施。

您个人对健康的定义是什么？ 那是一种我称之为健康和谐的状态。透过这 种状态，我们的身心灵健康能够自由流动并同步。 这是一个持续的过程，重点在于选择与学习通往健 康快乐的途径。一旦抵达那个境界，就要靠自律来 维持这个状态。协调一致是必要关键，致力于达成 身心灵和谐是一段持续不间断的旅程。

您认为健康生活有哪些面向？ 主要有三个方面，也就是身、心、灵。「身」 方面包括照顾好自己的身体，像是吃健康的食物、 有充足的睡眠和适当的运动，尽可能避免受伤和疾 病，必要时寻求适当医疗协助。「心」则需要社会 关系，与他人建立良好健康的连结，并且保持在没 有压力的状态下，偶尔需要一些外来刺激。至于 「灵」，如果你照顾好「身」与「心」，而这两个面 向能够相得益彰，那「灵」也就能处于良好状态。

除了个人方面，有哪些外部环境因素会影响健

康？ Chiva-Som 的核心价值之一是环境及可持续。

在有毒的环境中，人怎么可能健康？我们目前面临 一个很大的问题，就是气候变迁与污染。如果植物 和鱼肉当中含有重金属，人体就不可能健康。

Wellness Director Chanyapak Suwankantha 康体总监 Chanyapak Suwankantha

→ Senior Spa Therapist

Saisamorn

高级水疗师Saisamorn

← Yoga Instructor

Kamlesh Kumar

瑜珈导师

Kamlesh Kumar

if you eat plants, fish, or meats that contain heavy metals, you will never get close to wellness.

At Chiva-Som, we invest a lot to support this core value. We reuse water from the lake. We use solar power to heat water. We have an I-Farm-certified organic garden and we use vegetables from it for our guests.

What are some of the developments that have been undertaken over recent years to benefit guests?

We have a broad vision – we begin with the concept of relaxation and move on to physical fitness and then on to mental and spiritual health – the holistic approach. We started with a spa, like many properties, and now we have more than two hundred different treatments for every aspect of health. And let’s not forget the importance of food. The wellness cuisine at Chiva-Som has evolved over the years with an increasing range of excellent ingredients. Our chef can deliver healing meals for guests – food that promotes gut health, brain health, heart health. Food is medicine, so it can treat you as well.

In your view, what makes Chiva-Som exceptional among wellness destinations?

It’s a combination of people and product. We have a first-rate team that takes very good care of guests. Our product is the wide range of treatments that correspond to guests’ needs and preferences. We follow global trends closely to make sure we are ahead of the curve. We also educate our guests by helping them understand their goals and how to reach them. And what we teach is not confined to just that moment or to just that person. We give guests the tools to change their lifestyles and to keep going with those changes after their stay, so that their friends and family can see their change in lifestyle and health and want to follow them.

What do you want guests to take away from ChivaSom?

I want them to remember what our logo represents: body, mind, and spirit. I want them to remember that these three elements need to be synchronized and in harmony.

在 Chiva-Som，我们投资大量心力来实现这项核心价值。 我们重复使用湖泊里的水，用太阳能来进行加热。我们有一座 I-Farm 认证的有机花园，并且用花园种植的蔬果来招待宾客。

近几年来，度假村发展了哪些对宾客有益的举措？ 我们秉持相当广阔的愿景 – – 我们从放松的概念开始，然

后到身体健康，再到心智及精神健康，是一种全方位的手法。 我们像许多酒店一样从水疗起家，现在我们有两百多种不同 的护理手法，能够照顾健康的各个层面。而且，我们也没有 忘记食物的重要性。多年来，Chiva-Som 的养生食疔随着顶 级食材的增加也变得更多样化。厨师能替宾客准备养生餐点， 比方说促进肠道、大脑、心脏健康的食物。食物就是药，也 具有疗效。

就您看来，在养生度假村当中，Chiva-Som 最无与伦比的

特点是什么？

Chiva-Som 是人与产品的结合。我们有一流的团队，无 微不至地照顾宾客。我们提供各式各样符合宾客需求与喜好 的护理产品。我们密切关注全球趋势，确保我们走在时代尖 端。我们还会教育宾客，协助他们了解个人目标及达到这些 目标的方法。我们所传授的知识也不仅限于当下或是某一个 人。我们提供改变宾客生活方式的工具，并且让他们在离开 度假村后继续维持，让亲友能看到他们在生活方式与健康方 面的改变，并且萌生追随他们一起行动的念头。

您希望宾客能从 Chiva-Som 得到什么？ 我希望他们能记得我们标志所代表的意涵：身、心、 灵。我希望他们能记得这三个面向需要达到和谐平衡、调 和一致。

healing journey

At Chiva-Som Hua Hin Thailand, techniques from East and West lead guests on a journey to healthy self-understanding.

“THE MAIN REASON for human suffering is a lack of control,” says Kamlesh Kumar, yoga instructor at award-winning spa resort ChivaSom Hua Hin Thailand. “We are always looking for happiness outside, through expectations and attachments. But happiness is here, inside. Peace is here, inside. When you love yourself and you know your journey and who you are, everything becomes easy.”

Making every guest’s journey to self-understanding a true pleasure and delight is a top priority at Chiva-Som Hua Hin. Located along the stunning royal coast, this seaside resort with a protected mangrove reserve offers visitors a peaceful retreat not too far from the capital city of Bangkok.

Kumar believes that it is important that he and his colleagues treat guests like family members, a legacy from their founder, the late Mr. Boonchu Rojanastien, who demolished his beachfront home in 1993 to build a resort that would be open to others to enjoy. “I love our guests,” says spa therapist Khun Sai. “They feel like family to me. And they love us too, which is why so many stay for a long time and come back again and again. The staff love working here too, because it feels like home. Some of us have been here for more than twenty years.”

While the welcome feels comforting and familial, Chiva-Som’s approach to wellness is strictly professional and cutting-edge, a combination of Western diagnostic medicine and Eastern principles that offers guests the very best therapeutic experience. Wellness at the resort is divided into six modalities: spa, physiotherapy, holistic health, nutrition, fitness, and aesthetic beauty. Therapists work closely with guests to create bespoke programs, with treatments and activities designed to bring each person a greatly improved quality of lifestyle. This holistic approach to wellness aims to align mind, body, and spirit, correcting any imbalances and allowing health to flourish.

Executive Chef Sinchai Srivipa, who has been at Chiva-Som since 2009, tailor-makes meal plans for guests using the best produce available. As one of the six wellness modalities, nutrition is an

WORDS BY MARK HAMMONS AND ELISABETH RUANGKRITYA PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HAMMONS

Lentil soup

important part of each healing journey. At the beginning of their stay, guests share dietary preferences and allergies at a consultation with a specialist so that an appropriate healthful menu can be designed for them. In addition to this, naturopath Dr. Jason consults with the kitchens and, working together, they create a series of menus specifically designed to support certain areas of the body. They have designed a popular gut health program with a focus on probiotic foods to support the digestive system. Menus specifically for heart health and brain health are launching soon.

Healthy eating begins with high-quality ingredients, and ChivaSom’s commitment to minimizing its carbon footprint, which has been

位于泰国华欣的 Chiva-Som 是一间获奖无数、

享负盛名的水疗度假村，度假村的瑜伽教练 Kamlesh Kumar 表示：「人类之所以会痛苦，主 要原因是缺乏控制。我们总是向外寻求幸福，一 直渴望以及执着于某种事物。但幸福就在这里， 就在心里。和平也来自我们本身。只要你爱自己， 知道自己将走向何方、知道自己是谁，一切就会 豁然开朗。」

让每位宾客的自我探索之旅充满真正的喜 悦与快乐，是 Chiva-Som 的首要任务。这座海 滨度假胜地位于迷人的海岸边，拥有一片受保护 的红树林保护区，让宾客能在距离首都曼谷不远 处找到宁静且放松的好去处。

Kamlesh 认为自己跟同事都必须将宾客当 成家人一样对待，因为这是已故的度假村创办 人 Boonchu Rojanastien 先生传承下来的理念。

Boonchu Rojanastien 在 1993 年拆除了自己的海 滨住宅，建造一栋开放给所有人享受的度假村。 水疗师 Khun Sai 表示：「我爱我们的宾客，他们 对我来说就像家人一样。他们也爱我们，这就说 明为什么很多宾客选择在这里待上很长一段时 间，而且一有空就会回来度假。员工们也喜欢在 这里工作，因为这里有家的感觉。其中一些同事 已经在这里服务超过二十年了。」

虽然接待宾客的方式是走轻松以及亲切路 线，但 Chiva-Som 的疗养服务却非常专业及先进， 完美结合西方诊断医学以及东方的养生原则，提 供最顶级的疗养体验。度假村的养生手法分为六 种模式：水疗、理疗、整体健康、营养、健身和 美学美容。治疗师会密切跟进每位宾客，打造出 为他们量身定做的疗养方案，期望让每位宾客的 生活品质有最大幅度的改善。这种全方位的健康 疗养方法旨在调整心灵、身体与精神层面，导正 潜在的不平衡，让身体更健康茁壮。

行政主厨 Sinchai Srivipa 自 2009 年以来就 在 Chiva-Som 任职，他会利用现有的新鲜食材

为宾客量身设计最佳的膳食方案。营养是 ChivaSom 的六大疗养手法之一，也是每段养生旅程 中的要角。入住之初，宾客会与咨询专家分享自 己的饮食偏好以及过敏原，以便厨房团队打造出 最适合的健康菜单。此外，自然疗法专家 Jason 也会与厨房合作讨论，开发出一系列专门用来调 理身体特定部位的菜式。其中一个颇受欢迎的肠 道健康方案，重点是培养能改善消化系统的益生 菌食品。专门针对心脏与大脑健康的料理菜单也 即将问世。

健康料理菜单以顶级食材打造而成，ChivaSom 亦努力将碳足迹减到最低，并且荣获多个

Executive Chef Sinchai Srivipa 行政总厨Sinchai Srivipa

recognized with multiple awards, has had a beneficial effect on the kitchen. Two local organic gardens provide the property with ultrafresh produce. The food and beverage team collaborates closely with the gardeners, creating menus according to the seasonal produce available. The chefs avoid using any processed food in their cuisine, preferring to cook from scratch, often keeping ingredients in their raw and natural form to preserve the integrity of nutrients.

A stay at Chiva-Som is more than the sum of the days spent there. The team believes it’s important that guests feel the benefit of their stay long after they‘ve gone. All of the bespoke wellness programs are designed to empower guests with tools and knowledge to continue their wellness journey at home. The kitchen team shares recipes and hosts cooking classes to help guests replicate the dishes they enjoyed during their stay. “We teach the guests here,” says Kumar, “but it’s really important that they keep up the practice of everything they’ve learned. Doing one week here is like taking just one bite from a plate of food. To receive long-term benefits, to get the optimal rewards, you need to make wellness a part of your life.”

奖项，同时也对厨房带来非常正面的效益。餐饮 团队与向酒店提供新鲜农产品的两个当地有机菜 园紧密合作，根据现有的当季食材来设计菜单。 厨师尽可能不在料理中使用任何加工食品，更倾 向使用原食材来入菜，借此保留食材的原始风味 及型态，不破坏其中的营养成分。

逗留在 Chiva-Som 的时光，获得的远不只几

日间的调养与休息。团队认为，重要的是让宾客 在离开后还能持续感受到在度假村的收获。度假 村制定的所有养生方案，目的都是为了让宾客得 到必备的知识，在离开度假村后能继续探索自我 与健康。厨房团队会与宾客分享食谱并举办烹饪 课程，让他们回去后可以自己烹煮住宿期间曾享 用的菜肴。Kamlesh 指出：「我们把所知的都教给 宾客，但更重要的是，他们要将自己在这里学到 的实践在日常生活中。在这里停留一周，就像你 踏出了一步。如果要长期维持健康、带来最好的 效益，就得让健康养生成为人生的一部分。」

Fattoush with crab and avocado sauce 牛油果酱蟹肉沙拉

畅意都会

urban indulgence

Mandarin Oriental New York offers sumptuous R&R in the heart of the city.

MANHATTAN’S LUXURY icon, Mandarin Oriental New York, crowns Deutsche Bank Center at 1 Columbus Circle, right in the pulsing heart of the city. The hotel is perfectly positioned for easy access to Broadway theaters, museums and galleries, Fifth Avenue shopping, and the verdant oasis of Central Park.

This five-star, five-diamond luxury property eschews brash bling, favoring instead an understated fusion of elegant styles that combine classic American design with elements hinting at the brand’s heritage – flashes of auspicious gold and lines recalling the curves and angles of East Asian architecture. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the lavishly appointed guest suites offer views of either the Manhattan

skyline and Hudson River on one side or the green expanse of Central Park on the other. Bedrooms are focused on luxe comfort, with restful, muted colors, exquisite linens, and ergonomically designed beds, all chosen to provide guests with a perfect night’s sleep before the next day’s urban adventure.

Visitors eager to maintain their fitness and wellness goals while away are wellplaced at Mandarin Oriental. The hotel’s multi-award-winning spa offers pampering treatments designed to refresh and rejuvenate: hot-stone massages for soothing tired muscles, body wraps for detoxifying any overindulgence, and state-of-the-art facials to keep guests looking their best while taking in the city’s glamorous night life. For pure relaxation, the amethyst crystal steam room and the Thai yoga suite with its deep soaking tub make for a perfect ending to an exhausting day of sightseeing.

One spectacular way to view the cityscape from on high is from the fitness center’s seventy-five-foot-long lap pool running alongside a wall of full-length windows. Swimmers can stay fit or simply unwind while admiring New York’s towering architecture by day and glittering lights by night.

Back at ground level, Central Park is right on Mandarin Oriental New York’s doorstep. The city’s leafy retreat and haven for fitness freaks offers lakes, ornamental bridges, and a network of cycle and walking paths. The hotel’s central Midtown location also makes it a great base for exploring the city on foot, perhaps a walking tour designed by the concierge team or just a leisurely stroll to absorb the energy of this dynamic destination.

纽约文华东方酒店是曼哈顿最新的奢华地标， 位于哥伦布圆环的德意志银行中心，位处纽 约市的脉动枢纽。酒店地理位置优越，周围 有百老汇剧院、博物馆和画廊环绕，邻近第 五大道购物商店街及都会绿洲中央公园。 这家五星级、五钻级的豪华酒店以低调 简约的优雅风格为主，结合美式设计及品牌 经典元素，如展现吉祥意象的金色装饰与线 条等细节，让人想起东亚建筑优美的弧线与 角度。奢华的套房中有着大面积的落地窗， 一边是曼哈顿的天际线与哈德逊河，另一侧 的套房则能俯视纽约中央公园的葱葱绿地。 套房设计整体以柔和色调打造，注重奢华舒 适，配套的精致床单与符合人体工学设计的 床，让宾客在展开第二天的都会冒险之前舒 心休息。

渴望在纽约旅居期间维持健身习惯或拥 有健康目标的宾客，也能在文华东方酒店尽 享宾至如归的康体体验。酒店屡获殊荣的水 疗中心提供令人焕发活力的奢华护理，让宾 客身心放松、充满活力：热石按摩可舒缓肌 肉疲惫；裹身护理能促进代谢，加速排出身 体堆积的毒素；先进的脸部护理则能让宾客 保持最佳状态、亮丽享受纽约五光十色的夜 生活。如果单纯追求放松，可在紫水晶蒸气 浴室与泰式瑜伽套房的浴缸中释放身心，为 一整天疲劳的观光行程画上完美句点。

宾客也能在健身中心长七十五英尺的游 泳池中，沿着一整排全景窗户从高处俯瞰纽 约的壮观都会景致。不管是在白天的日光中， 还是在夜晚城市的璀璨灯光之下，宾客都能 一边在池中游泳运动、泡水放松，一边欣赏 纽约高耸林立的建筑物景观。 纽约文华东方酒店与市内必游景点之一 的中央公园只是咫尺相距。中央公园以丰富 的景观闻名，绿地内有池塘、装饰桥梁、自 行车道及人行步道，是户外健身爱好者的理 想之选。地处市中心的黄金地段，酒店是宾 客徒步探索城市的理想始点，除了参加礼宾 团队设计的徒步旅行，也可悠闲漫步于街头， 感受繁华后再回到城市中的静谧一隅。

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, NEW YORK

home cooking

At Paris’s two-Michelin-star Marsan par Hélène Darroze, food and family intertwine.

“YOU SHOULD GET A REAL SENSE of home at my restaurant,” says internationally acclaimed French chef Hélène Darroze. She speaks of her lovely restaurant Marsan par Hélène Darroze set in a quiet side street in Paris’s sixth arrondissement. A tree trunk presides over the entrance, with a pair of smoky glass doors sliding silently apart to reveal a hallway with warm, soft lighting. Some of the glow comes from an array of what look like amber tiles – made from the bases of Armagnac bottles – arranged with geometric precision over a large antique map covering one wall. Fragments peep out in between the tiles, showing the names of French villages and towns, the first clue that you are being transported from the Left Bank to rural Southwest France.

BY LUCY MORGAN

“My cooking is very personal,” says Darroze. “Only I can design these dishes, because they’re a reflection of my experiences, my emotions, and my memories.” Descended from a dynasty of chefs, Darroze was born and raised in the Landes department in a town called Montde-Marsan, for which her restaurant is named. After studying business at university, she returned to run the family restaurant and begin developing her deeply personal culinary style.

One of Marsan’s welcome snacks is a corn pancake with chickpea cream and slices of lightly cured mackerel that has been marinated in fresh lemon, lightening the fatty taste and refining and defining the umami. The dish is a collection of truly representative flavors of Southwest France.

“There’s a lot of emotion in my dishes,” says Darroze. “I take it as my starting point.” This inner approach is evident at Marsan, where a warm sense of home and hospitality prevail. A rustic oak dresser in a corridor between kitchen and dining room holds treasured family memorabilia.

Photographs of Darroze, her brother, and her children, together with her grandmother’s recipe book and her grandfather’s wine list, are on display

国际知名法国大厨 Hélène Darroze 表示：「宾 客来到我的餐厅，会觉得这里就是家。」她经营 的 Marsan par Hélène Darroze 是一间温馨的 餐厅，位于巴黎第六区一条静谧的小街。入口 处主视觉为一棵诺大的树干，拉开那对如烟雾 般朦胧的玻璃门后，宾客会看见一 条灯光温暖柔和的走廊。其中一些 光线来自一整排琥珀色的磁砖，这 是由 Armagnac 白兰地酒瓶的瓶底 制成，以几何方式精确排列在一片 大型的古董地图上，幅度横跨整个墙面。碎片 错落在磁砖之间，点出法国村庄与城镇的名称。 透过这第一条线索，宾客会发现自己从巴黎左 岸来到法国西南部的乡郊。

Hélène 表示：「我的烹饪非常有个人风格。 只有我能开发出这些料理，因为它们如实反映 出我个人的经历、情感及记忆。」Hélène 来自

一个名厨世家，在朗德省蒙德马桑市镇（Montde-Marsan）出生和长大，而她的餐厅就是以此 镇为名。在商学院毕业后，她回归经营家族餐 厅，并开始发展自己鲜明的个人烹饪风格。

Marsan 最受欢迎的其中一款小吃是玉米

煎饼，并铺上鹰嘴豆奶油与略经腌制的鲭鱼片。 鲭鱼片以新鲜柠檬腌制，让带油脂感的口感更 显清爽，鲜味也更明亮突出，完美整合道地法 国西南部的风味。

Hélène 透露：「我的料理中有很丰富的情 感，这也是我的出发点。」这种向内探索自我 的方式其实也是 Marsan 的特点，餐厅里洋溢

① Scallop and cabbage

② Sea bass

“Only I can design these dishes, because they’re a reflection of my experiences, my emotions, and my memories.

只有我能开发出这些料理，因为它们 如实反映出我个人的经历、情感及记忆。” Chef

Pear dessert

④ Pavlova

Hélène Darroze

for diners to pause and linger over on their way to the restful, elegantly understated dining room. For a truly intimate culinary experience, a six-seat chef’s table, right in the center of the stunning kitchen, is personally presided over by Darroze.

“I have the greatest respect for ingredients. I’m very particular about the quality of the produce I use and have profound respect for the people who raise it,” she says. Darroze’s exceptional technical skill with ingredients is on display in her gorgeous gazpacho: barbecued tomatoes deliver a sweet-smoky taste, sun-dried tomatoes are so intense that they move in a licorice direction, and confit tomatoes are so sweet that they behave like toffee.

It is perhaps at the conclusion of the tasting menu that diners most sense Darroze’s confident warmth, as she dares to alter one of France’s most traditional desserts, baba au rhum, and anchors it firmly in her birthplace. The buttery cake is steeped in syrup made not with rum but Armagnac, a spirit with strong connections to Southwest France and one that is, in fact, produced by her brother. Guests are invited to choose among the family Armagnacs to pour over their babas before the dessert is finished with light Chantilly faintly laced with cinnamon. This extraordinary ending is Marsan’s ultimate taste of home.

着温暖待客的家庭氛围。餐厅与厨房之间的走廊上有 一个质朴的橡木橱柜，放置了 Hélène、她的兄弟姐妹 以及孩子的照片，还有祖母的食谱与祖父的酒单等珍 贵的家庭纪念品，宾客在进入宁静、优雅又简约的餐 厅之前能在此驻足浏览。为了营造真正亲密私人的烹 饪体验，厨房中央摆放了一张六人座的厨师桌，并由 Hélène 亲自主导。

「我非常重视食材原料。我对使用的农产品有非 常高的要求，并且对种植养育这些食材的人抱持敬意。」 Hélène 对食材的卓越烹饪技巧也完美体现在华丽的冻 汤当中。烤番茄带有甜美的烟熏气味，经过日晒成干 的番茄香气极为强烈，尝起来如甘草般鲜甜。油封番 茄则非常甜口，吃起来就像太妃糖一样。

或许在品尝菜单的尾声，宾客才能明确感受到 Hélène 的自信与热情，因为她敢于改变法国最传统的 甜点兰姆巴巴，并以家乡风味来诠释这道经典甜品。 她不使用传统食谱中的兰姆酒糖浆，而是将黄油蛋糕 浸泡在与法国西南部有深厚渊源的 Armagnac 白兰地 糖浆中。事实上，这种酒由她的兄弟生产。宾客能在 家族酿制的 Armagnac 白兰地当中挑选自己喜欢的酒 款浇淋在甜点上，而甜点上还有飘散着淡雅肉桂味的 香甜奶油。这款无与伦比的甜品就是 Marsan 如实呈 现的家乡风味。

LIVING THE MYTH

TK talks with Hong Kong jewelry designer David Peereboom about the launch of Myth, his latest and largest collection.

“AND JUST LIKE THAT, one year turned into eleven. Making the decision to settle in Hong Kong was the happiest moment of my life,” says David Peereboom, who, with his wife Kirstin, first arrived just after the handover in 1997 and made the leap to stay after a period of shuttling to and from North America.

Over the years, he founded jewelry company NFA, or No Fixed Address, and, like so many of Hong Kong’s residents, has seen the city battle the lasting effects of the pandemic as it slowly gets back on its feet.

Now he has launched his new collection, Myth, inspired by Chinese folklore about Longmen, or Dragon Gate, the crest of a legendary waterfall where fearless koi fish swimming upstream brave the leap to become immortalized as the allpowerful Yellow River Dragon. “The story of the Yellow River Dragon is all about resilience and speaks of our perseverance through incredibly difficult times,” says Peereboom. “I wanted to design something that could speak to all of us, since we’ve all been through the same challenges, something that embodies one of the most powerful symbols in Asia, the dragon.”

David Peereboom 表示：「一转眼就是 十一年了。决定在香港定居的那一秒，是 我人生中最幸福的时刻。」David 和太太 Kirstin 在 1997 年香港回归后首次来到香 港，在来回香港与北美一段时间后，他决 定在此落地生根。

BY LUCY JENKINS • PHOTOGRAPHY

BY DAVID HARTUNG

几年前，他创立了珠宝品牌 NFA（No Fixed Address），并跟许多香港居民一样， 亲身见证这座城市慢慢恢复，并持续对疫 情造成的影响进行抗争。 全新珠宝系列 Myth 已隆 重发布。Myth 的灵感来自中国 民间传说中的龙门在那里， 无畏的锦鲤逆流而上，勇闯传 说中瀑布顶端的裂谷，成为永 垂不朽的黄河之龙。David 指出： 「黄河之龙的故事重点在于坚忍 不拔，描述我们在艰难时刻展现出的过人 毅力。我想藉由『龙』这个亚洲最强大的 象征，设计出一些能与所有人产生共鸣的 珠宝，因为我们都经历过相同的挑战。」 「这不只是我对这个故事的诠释。」他 补充说：「大家看到我过去所设计的系列， 然后请我打造几款以龙为主题的单品，这 也是催生出 Myth 这个系列的原因之一。 这是每个人的神话，不单属于我。」

“And this is not just about my interpretation of one story,” he adds. “The concept of Myth also came about from people seeing my previous collections and asking me to make them something dragonthemed. This is everyone’s Myth and not just mine.”

The launch event was held in March at TK ’s Ocean Table, with invited guests previewing Myth and meeting David in person. Featured were Mythinspired canapés by Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa and cocktails created by TK Spirits Director John Ng. “I was

发布会于三月在 TK 的 Ocean Table 举行，宾客受邀提早预览 Myth 系列并 与 David 见面，现场也备有由行政主厨 Jaakko Sorsa 以 Myth 为灵感设计的各款 开胃菜，以及由 TK 烈酒总监 John Ng 调 制的鸡尾酒。David 表示：「这场活动让 我很震撼。我很爱这个空间、摄影、食物 和鸡尾酒背后的创意，每个元素都是艺术 品。」

Myth 是 David 迄今最大的珠宝系列，

我花了很多时间实现摇滚文化。我很早就发现，只要对自己的 潜意识和任何机会持开放态度，就是真正的摇滚明星。”

David Peereboom

blown away by the event,” says Peereboom. “I love the creativity behind the space, the photography, the food and the cocktails that were works of art.”

Peereboom’s biggest collection to date comprises thirteen distinctive pieces, including rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and a unique key ring, all of which will be showcased alongside his entire NFA range. Every piece, created in silver, gold, and black and white diamonds, has been made by hand with painstaking detail, including hand-hammered scales for the dragon and koi on one of the rings.

“It’s important for me to source ethically,” he says, “so I don’t use any materials with political or human tragedy associations. For example, my silver comes from a sustainable vendor in Thailand. It’s a little purer than Imperial silver, so it’s more delicate to work with, but it’s one of my favorite materials to use in creating jewelry.”

According to Peereboom, the outlines of his future as jewelry designer emerged in his youth. “I think, like many a young man, I wanted to be an athlete,” he laughs. “I was really into ice hockey. But I was always drawing and doodling, and I loved drawing skulls in particular. I must have been about seventeen or eighteen at the time, and my mother sat me down and shared her concerns about all the skull pictures.

“Like most people, she took the automatic view that skulls are negative symbols, whereas I see them as neither positive nor negative. They are what they are, and it’s our preconceptions that shape our world. I get to break down those labels with my jewelry and tap into the human subconscious. I was lucky that my parents were both creative themselves and supported me throughout my career.

“And I’ve always loved jewelry – it’s what I’m best at. I’ve designed clothes, shoes, and handbags over the years, but jewelry is more personal. If I designed something that I wouldn’t wear, or Kirstin wouldn’t either, there’d be no soul in it. I think it’s unique that my collections have been adopted so quickly by Hong Kong’s elite fashion collectors and that they themselves enjoy wearing the pieces.”

The company name No Fixed Address, says Peereboom, harks back to the 1970s punk rock movement, with Patti Smith cited as a source of inspiration, and is closely linked with the “any music, anytime, anywhere” ethos of music giant EMI Records: “I just love that Hong Kong is my home, but we should all feel creative at any moment and not just in one place,” he says. “The magic happens when you let the inner you out, and I want people to believe in their emotions and themselves – and then only positive things can happen.”

To view or purchase David Peereboom’s jewelry, please contact him on Instagram: @nfabold.

其中包括十三件独一无二的作品，包括戒指、 手镯、项链、耳环与一款独特的钥匙圈，上 述商品将连同他的完整 NFA 珠宝系列共同展 出。每件作品都是用银、金，以及钻石、黑 钻制作，皆为手工打造，细节无比考究。其 中一款戒指上龙与锦鲤的鳞片，便是透过手 工捶打所制成。

David 表示：「对我来说，以符合道德的 方式采购原料是非常重要的。所以我不使用 任何涉及政治或人道危机的素材。比方说， 我的银来自泰国一个永续的供应商。它比帝 国银更纯，所以加工起来更需要小心谨慎， 而这也是我创作珠宝时最爱的材料之一。」

David 也提及，他年轻时就显现出将来 会成为珠宝设计师的蛛丝马迹。「我与很多年 轻人一样，想成为运动员。」他笑着说：「我 当时很喜欢冰上曲棍球。但我常常画画和涂 鸦，我特别喜欢画骷髅头。当时我应该十七 或十八岁，我母亲请我坐下来，告诉我她很 担心我会一直画骷髅头。」

「和多数人一样，她先入为主地认为骷 髅头是负面象征，但我并不认为骷髅有正面 或负面的意涵。骷髅就是骷髅，但我们的主 观见解塑造我们的观点。我可以用我的珠宝 打破这些标签，挖掘人类的潜意识。幸运的是， 我的父母本身就很有创意，也在我的职涯路 上一直支持着我。」

「而且我一直都很爱珠宝，这是我最擅 长的事物。多年来，我设计过衣服、鞋子和 手袋，但珠宝更贴近我心。如果我不穿戴自 己设计的东西，或 Kirstin 也不想的话，那就 没有灵魂了。很多香港的时尚界领军人物都 很欣赏我的珠宝系列，也乐于佩戴我的珠宝。」

David 表示，公司名称 No Fixed

Address 让人联想到 1970 年代的庞克摇滚运 动，Patti Smith 是这股潮流的精神领袖。另

外，这个名称也与音乐巨头百代唱片的精神 紧密呼应：「任何音乐、任何时刻、任何地点」。 「我很开心香港是我的家，但我们时时刻刻、 不管身在何处，都应该要感受到创意。让内 在的自我真实展现，这就是魔法展现的时刻。 我希望大家都能相信自己的情感与自我，才 能迎接正面积极的结果。」

“I’ve spent the better part of my career realizing the rock-and-roll culture. I figured out early on that the true rock star of any show is openness to your subconscious and to the opportunity that presents.

Yellow Rangpur

“FOOD HAS ALWAYS BEEN the focus at Oceania Cruises,” says Jason Worth, vice president sales and general manager Asia Pacific of Oceania Cruises. “Our lobsters come from a father-son team in Nova Scotia. And for pâtisserie and viennoiserie, flour is sourced from a particular French mill and butter from a dairy in Normandy so that our fresh breakfast croissants are made from authentic ingredients at all of our onboard dining venues.”

BY LUCY MORGAN

Headquartered in Miami in the US, Oceania Cruises operates seven luxury ships on a full spectrum of more than six hundred destinations covering the globe. To reflect the journey that each ship sails, fresh local produce is sourced along the route to create memorable dining adventures for guests. “In Argostoli in Greece,” says Worth, “we

大洋邮轮亚太区销售副总裁兼总经理 Jason Worth 表示：「美食向来是大洋邮轮的重头戏。 我们的龙虾来自加拿大新斯科舍省的一个父子 团队。用来制作糕点与面包的面粉是从法国一 间特定的磨坊运来，而黄油来自诺 曼第的一家乳制品公司，因此我们 早餐供应的新鲜可颂，是在船上以 最道地的原料制成。」

大洋邮轮公司总部设于迈阿密，旗下有七 艘豪华邮轮，航线遍布全球六百多个目的地。

为了体现每艘船的航程，他们会在航行途中采 买新鲜的本地食材，为宾客创造难忘的餐饮体

seafaring feasts

have a chef market dinner. It’s a beautiful feast of different Greek foods where you can sample many dishes paired with Greek wines. The guests love it – and so does the crew.”

Every ship has a Terrace Cafe, a luxurious space with a changing menu offering thirty selections served by staff buffet style. There’s an Executive Chef’s Tasting Menu as well, designed to give guests the opportunity to try new dishes throughout the voyage. Each ship also has a selection of exceptional specialty restaurants.

The Oceania Cruises pursuit of culinary excellence continues even when guests are on dry land. Exciting shore excursions include culinary discovery tours, an ideal way to explore a region through its cuisine. “A chef from the ship takes guests on a market tour,” says Worth. “They

验。Jason 表示：「途经希腊阿尔戈斯托利时，我

们举办了一场主厨市场晚宴。这是一场别开生面 的希腊美食盛宴，宾客能品尝到许多与希腊葡萄 酒搭配的菜肴。宾客与船员都很满意。」

每艘邮轮都有一间 Terrace Cafe，空间豪华 优雅，菜单也会持续更新变化，三十多种美食选 择如自助餐般展示，但由工作人员提供服务。为 了让宾客在航程中有机会品尝新的菜肴，餐厅还 另外提供一份行政主厨的品尝菜单。此外，每艘 船上都备有多间特色料理餐厅。 即使宾客身在陆地上，大洋邮轮依然致力于 提供最顶级的美食服务。精彩的岸上游览行程就

Both onboard and ashore, Oceania Cruises brings guests the best of the world’s cuisines.

“The menu has over thirty items changing daily, so you never run out of options in the Grand Dining Room.

主餐厅的菜单上有超过三十种选择，

且每天都会更换菜式，给游客带来丰富的美味体验。

Jason Worth

buy different foods and bring the ingredients back to the ship to prepare in our state-of-the-art Culinary Center – a cooking school at sea.”

The mixology team at Oceania Cruises is equally devoted, sharing with guests the latest and most entertaining developments in the art of crafting delicious drinks. There’s an ever-expanding menu of nonalcoholic and mocktail selections and such innovations as barrel-aged negronis to offer cocktail enthusiasts something different. Fun additions to the repertoire include the bubble gun, which creates a dome filled with flavor mist that floats over a glass like a setting sun. When the bubble pops at last, it releases a scent that harmonizes with the cocktail’s flavor profile. Another quirky diversion is a roving Champagne cart that pops up in restaurants across the ship, adding a delightful surprise to dinner service.

”

包括烹饪探索之旅，透过探索美食来了解当地的特 色和文化。Jason 表示：「厨师会带宾客去参观市场，

并且采购不同的食材，结束后把食材带回船上，在 我们的海上烹饪学校里烹饪料理。」

大洋邮轮的调酒团队也同样认真投入，与宾客 分享制作调酒的最新技巧与乐趣。非酒精类饮品与 无酒精调酒的选项不断扩充，木桶陈酿的尼格罗尼 等创新饮品也能让调酒爱好者有更多不同的选择。 其中一个有趣的创新手法是用泡泡枪打造出蕴含浓 郁风味的圆顶泡泡，就像夕阳一样停留在杯缘。气 泡爆裂时，会释放出与调酒口味协调的香气。另一 项别致新奇的惊喜则是餐厅里的巡回香槟车，为享 用晚餐的宾客提供耳目一新的体验。

Each ship has an elegant Grand Dining Room. 每艘邮轮上都有一间 优雅的主餐厅。

酒中「王子」

prince of wines

A legend inspires The Mascot, an exceptional wine from a cult Napa Valley producer.

ADORNING THE LABEL on every bottle of The Mascot is the image of Prince, an English bull terrier who claimed the hearts of all who worked for and visited Farmers Deposit National Bank of Pittsburgh in the 1890s. Eventually adopted by an employee, Prince appeared on the bank’s checks and stock certificates, was immortalized with a statue at the entrance, and became the mascot of local sports teams.

Sadly, the bank and statue are no more, but twenty-five hundred miles to the west, the legend of Prince lives on in Napa Valley with The Mascot, a Harlan-owned wine label. The Mascot is produced from the younger cabernet sauvignon vines of three properties of the Harlan family: Harlan Estate, Bond, and Promontory. Although produced from vines that are less mature – between five and twelve years old – The Mascot is made in the same style as the estate’s other wines, and, according to Bill Harlan’s daughter, Amanda Harlan, it offers “a peek behind the curtain of what the future may hold.”

The Mascot, which has become just that for the Harlan family, was created by Will Harlan, Amanda’s brother, who grew up among the vines of his father’s estates and followed in his winegrowing footsteps after college. What began as a fun experiment in

mixing wines from the three estates and sharing the result with friends and family evolved into a serious project of refining and finessing, with the first official vintage of The Mascot (2008) seeing release in 2013.

Working with the domain’s winemaking teams led by Cory Empting, Will has succeeded where other high-end estates have not yet ventured by producing a youthful and harmonious wine made for immediate drinking but with the potential to age for decades. It’s a wine that bridges the gap between die-hard collectors who patiently wait for years to drink the domain’s hallowed 100-point products and newer wine consumers eager to experience similar styles at a lower price point. The 2018 Mascot, for example, costs around USD180, whereas the 2018 Harlan Estate, rated 100 points by Robert Parker, commands prices of USD1,890 and up.

㹴 犬出现在匹兹堡的 Farmers Deposit National Bank 银行，所有员工与访客都为它倾心，最 后更被一名员工收养。「王子」出现在银行的支票与股票上，银行更在 入口处立了一座它的雕像，并成为了当地球队的吉祥物。

BY LUCY JENKINS

虽然现在银行与雕像已不复存在，但在西边 2500 英里处，在 纳帕郡 Harlan 旗下的葡萄酒 The Mascot 中，「王子」的生命得以延 续，每瓶 The Mascot 的酒标上都缀有王子的图样。The Mascot 是由 Harlan 家族的 Harlan Estate、Bond 以及 Promontory 三个 庄园的年轻赤霞珠葡萄酿制而成。虽然是由较年轻，即树 龄介于五至十二年之间的葡萄树酿造而成，但 The Mascot 的酿造方式与酒庄的其他葡萄酒相同。根据 Bill Harlan 的女 儿 Amanda Harlan 所述，大家能从这支酒的现况「一窥酒庄未来的发 展与潜力」。

The Mascot 由 Amanda 的哥哥 Will Harlan 所推出。Will 在父亲 庄园的葡萄树下长大，大学毕业后继承父亲的葡萄种植事业。最初将 三座庄园的葡萄酒混在一起只是一项有趣的探索实验，与亲朋好友分 享酿制成果。后来这发展成一项严肃认真的计画，每项酿酒细节都认 真极致。2013 年，他们推出 The Mascot 的第一支 2008 年年份酒。

“The Mascot offers an insight into our estate wines,” says Amanda, who works closely with Will. “It shows the results of our well-honed winemaking practices and the approaches to our younger vines. The legend of Prince is also a way of sharing The Mascot with others who love wines – and dogs – as much as we do.”

The Mascot is now being shared with Hong Kong by Omtis Fine Wines, which has opened a new market to the domain and introduced the famed winemaking styles of Napa Valley to an enthusiastic audience.

Will 与 Cory Empting 领导的酒庄酿酒团队合作，在其他高端酒庄 尚未涉足的领域夺得先机，生产出一种年轻且风味和谐的葡萄酒，适 合立即饮用，也具有陈放几十年的潜质。除了那些愿意耐心等待多 年才饮用该酒庄之顶级葡萄酒的忠实收藏家，也有新消费者希望以较 低价格体验类似风味，这支酒就搭起这座桥梁，让酒庄同时满足这 两个客群。比方说，2018 年的 The Mascot 价格约为 180 美元，而被 Robert Parker 评为满分的 2018 年 Harlan Estate 价格则超过 1,890 美元。

Amanda 与 Will 密切合作，她表示：「The Mascot 让大家能更深 刻了解我们酒庄的葡萄酒。这体现了我们精良的酿酒手法，以及我们 处理年轻葡萄树的方式。藉着『王子』的传说，我们能与其他同样热 爱葡萄酒（还有狗）的人互动分享交流。」

现在，The Mascot 由安天时酒库引入香港市场。安天时酒库为当 地葡萄酒领域开拓了一个新市场，并将纳帕郡著名的酿酒风格介绍给 热爱品酒的消费群众。

在 1890 年代，一头名为「王子」的英国斗牛

The Mascot is produced from the younger vines of the Harlan family domain. The Mascot是由Harlan庄园的年轻赤霞珠葡萄酿制而成。

见微知著

devoted

to detail

Mystic Island’s chief winemaker oversees every step in the process at one of mainland China’s most promising boutique wineries.

“I’M AN ADVOCATE for ‘small things make a big difference,’” says New Zealand-based winemaker Allen Hedgman, who speaks in relaxed terms of the big difference he has made in the operations of Mystic Island Winery since he came onboard five years ago.

BY ANDREW DEMBINA

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

TK recently caught up with him in Hong Kong following his visit to Mystic Island’s vineyards and state-of-the-art production facility in the Penglai region of Yantai prefecture in the northeast province of Shandong. At the same latitude as Napa Valley and Bordeaux, Penglai now has fifty-plus wineries scattered across its more than one thousand square kilometers of fertile, coastal-influenced terrain. Mystic Island and six neighboring producers are nestled in the Qiushan Valley, which has fast become Penglai’s upand-coming subregion.

The winery was founded in 2008 by husband-and-wife team Rita Cheung and Kuo Chuan Kung (known as KC), natives of Hong Kong and Taiwan, respectively. Planting of the vines and construction of the facility commenced at the same time as its neighbor, French producer Château Lafite Rothschild, launched its first wine operation in China, Domaine de Long Dai.

Hedgman joined the team in 2018, with vines in the ground for six to seven years and a facility built. “My job,” he says, “is to lead the winemaking direction to the finished product, to determine styles, to assist in fruit quality and harvesting decisions. I also help with storytelling at events and in promotional areas.”

Mystic Island set out to be a boutique operation focusing on quality over quantity. “We produce around thirty to forty thousand bottles annually,” says Hedgman. “Our varieties are cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit verdot – those famed in Bordeaux. And we have a white variety, chardonnay, which we use with our vineyard’s wild yeast – and this is working really well. We have two new plantings going in now, tempranillo from last year and carménère from this year. We hope to make some quality standalones from both.” The winery currently offers red and rosé blends and pure chardonnay and petit verdot varietals.

“The Penglai area,” says Hedgman, “certainly has its challenges, including rain at harvest time, like Bordeaux and Burgundy. The terroir, particularly in the valley, though, has a sandy, loam soil with a granite

来自纽西兰的酿酒师 Allen Hedgman 说：「葡萄酒的关键在

于细节。」Allen 看似轻描淡写，但其实他对于葡萄酒酿造的 种种坚持，在他五年前加入仙岛酒庄以来，带来深远的正向 影响。 Allen 最近回到位于山东省东北部烟台市蓬莱地区的仙

岛酒庄，一睹葡萄园的风采及先进的酿酒设备。蓬莱与美国 加州纳帕谷和法国波尔多位处同一纬度，超过一千平方公里 的沿海沃土上有五十多家酒庄林立。其中，丘山谷地是蓬莱 近年发展快速的重要葡萄酒产区，仙岛酒庄和邻近六间酒庄 皆座落于此。

仙岛酒庄成立于 2008 年，由张立慧女士与丈夫 KC 共 同创办，两人分别于香港和台湾土生土长。仙岛酒庄的葡

2021 Yihu Merlot Reserve Red Wine 2021逸湖梅洛高级干红葡萄酒

Allen Hedgman

base that brings us great character in the wines. To the north, Mount Qiushan breaks up the harsh winter wind, and a reservoir nearby moderates the extreme temperatures of the summer. It’s one of only two regions in the north of China that don’t need to lay down vines in winter.”

Mystic Island includes a little more than sixteen hectares, including unworkable wetlands that it purchased as one of its contributions to sustainability. It also harnesses some solar power and uses as many natural fertilizers and components as possible in its fruit growing and production facility.

With winery construction still in progress when he arrived, Hedgman became the winery facility consultant, making sure that a gravity-flow operation was put in place throughout the four-story structure. “I worked with KC a lot to determine the equipment that should be put in to allow very soft handling as the fruit flows down to the next level.”

A gravity-flow setup also conserves power that would otherwise be consumed by pumps and is a system Hedgman was very much used to overseeing in his operations role at Domaine Drouhin in Oregon in the US. He also worked at other wineries in the US and Europe earlier in his career to broaden his knowledge, and he still consults for wineries in New Zealand and has traveled to Spain to consult during harvest periods.

Experience, says Hedgman, has led him to insist on a number of protocols, “like getting picked fruit out of the sun into refrigeration until all the grapes are harvested and using only the very best fruit. And I have very strict harvesting criteria. We have great equipment, and I’m big on constant analyses of the wines throughout the process.”

In the four years since launching its first vintages from the 2018 harvest, Mystic Island has garnered a number of accolades. Says Hedgman, “I think that’s due to our attention to detail.”

萄园和酿酒厂，和法国拉菲罗斯柴尔德酒庄 （Château Lafite Rothschild）在中国设立的 第一家酒庄 – –「珑岱酒庄」于同一时期建立。

Allen 于 2018 年加入，当时葡萄园已经 营了快七年了，酿酒厂也已兴建完成。他说： 「我负责主导葡萄酒酿造的过程，包括风味的 设计，以及葡萄品质和摘采时机的把关。我 也会协助酒庄进行酒品的推广。」

仙岛酒庄在运作上秉持「贵精不贵多」 的原则。Allen 说：「我们每年生产三至四万 瓶葡萄酒，使用品丽珠、赤霞珠、梅洛、小 味儿多等波尔多著名的葡萄品种。我们也生 产各式白酒，选用霞多丽葡萄并以野生酵母 发酵而成。我们正在规划新品种的种植，去 年是田帕尼优（Tempranillo），今年则是卡 门内尔（Carménère）。」目前仙岛酒庄供应 混酿的桃红及红葡萄酒种，以及纯酿的霞多 丽和小味儿多。

Allen 说：「蓬莱地区有其地理环境挑战， 和波尔多和勃艮第一样收成期雨水较多。不 过，以花岗岩砂质壤土为主的风土条件，让 谷地相当适合酿酒葡萄的种植。北部耸立的 丘山阻挡了严寒冬风，邻近的水库调节了夏 日高温。这样的气候条件让蓬莱成为中国唯 二冬季无需进行葡萄藤埋土工程的地区。」

仙岛酒庄占地约十六公顷，其中包括作 为环境永续用途的不可耕湿地。酒庄亦使用 太阳能发电设施，并在栽种和加工过程中， 尽可能使用天然肥料和成分。

Allen 刚加入团队时，酒庄还在建造的 阶段，所以他也成为酒庄设备顾问，监督四 层楼高的重力酿酒设备的 搭建工程。Allen 说：「我 和 KC 合力设计重力酿酒 系统，确保葡萄能以适当 力道在酿酒设备中移动。」

此外，重力酿酒设 备有助于节省电力，过去 Allen 于美国俄勒冈州的 Domaine Drouhin 酒庄服 务时，也经常使用重力酿 酒法。早年，Allen 也曾在 欧美等地的酒庄工作，拓 展他的酿酒知识。目前他

担任纽西兰多家酒庄的顾 问，每年葡萄采收季节也 会远赴西班牙提供酿酒顾 问服务。多年酿酒经验让 Allen 有许多坚持。 他说：「我们严选上等葡萄，葡萄一采收下来 必须马上冷藏，才能确保整批葡萄的品质如 一。我也对采收过程有严格的标准。我们拥 有上等的设备，我也会在酿酒过程中不断分 析葡萄酒的酿造情况。」

仙岛酒庄推出的第一支 2018 年份葡萄 酒，四年来广受各界肯定。Allen 说：「我们 相信，细节才能成就非凡。」

PRESENTED BY MYSTIC ISLAND WINERY

“I’m an advocate for ‘small things make a big difference.’

葡萄酒的关键 在于细节。”

Allen Hedgman

2021 Yihu Cabernet Franc Reserve Red Wine 2021逸湖品丽珠高級干紅葡萄酒

2021 Yihu Chardonnay Reserve Dry White Wine and 2021 Yihu Petit Verdot Reserve Dry Red Wine 2021逸湖霞多麗高級干白 葡萄酒及2021逸湖小味 兒多高級干紅葡萄酒

极致平衡

balance and finesse

香港米其林三星餐厅富临饭店备受 赞誉，在早前的一场餐酒盛宴中， 餐厅以最顶尖的香槟与清酒配搭一 系列特色菜肴，展现餐酒相辅相成 的独特魅力。行政总厨黄隆滔与首 席侍酒师陆志文 Jacky 充分发挥他 们的丰沛创意与卓越才华，让风格 迥异的清酒与香槟，与优雅的六道 菜品相互搭配，同时展示中国区域 料理的多样性。 本地顶尖酒商捷成酒业起用来 自日本的十四代清酒及中田英寿 N by Hidetoshi Nakata，以及来自法 国的 Bollinger 香槟，由黄师傅和 Jacky 搭配出独一无二的风味组合。

THE BEST OF CHAMPAGNE and sake were highlighted at a recent pairing dinner in Hong Kong at the acclaimed three-Michelin-star Forum Restaurant. Pairing the very different styles of sake and Champagne with an elegant six-course tasting menu that also demonstrated the versatility of Chinese regional cuisines was a testament to the creative talents of Executive Chef Adam Wong and Chief Sommelier Jacky Luk.

Jebsen Wine and Spirits, who provided the drinks – Juyondai and N by Hidetoshi Nakata sakes from Japan and Champagne Bollinger from France – collaborated with Wong and Luk on the unique pairings.

Juyondai sakes are made by the historic Takagi Brewery, with more than four hundred years of sake-making experience. Guests sampled Juyondai’s full series of Red Label, Black Label, and Limited-Edition Gold Label sakes. A particular menu highlight was Stir-Fried Lobster with Melon and Champagne Sauce paired with Juyondai Gold Label.

The crown jewel of the collection, Juyondai Gold Label offers a clean nose and a fruity elegance revealed in notes of apple, pear, and melon. The acidity of the Champagne sauce and the sweetness of the melon made an ideal combination with the sake and succulent lobster.

十四代清酒是由拥有四百多年 酿酒经验、历史悠久的高木酒造所 酿造。宾客能够一次品尝到红标、 黑标与金标十四代出口版酒款。其 中一个菜式亮点，是与十四代金标 搭配的香槟汁蜜瓜龙虾球。作为 十四代出口版中的王者，十四代金 标带有清新的香气及熟苹果、梨子 和蜜瓜的优雅水果香气。菜式中的 香槟汁的酸度与蜜瓜的甘甜，与清 酒和多汁的龙虾形成完美绝配。

来自法国 Aÿ 地区特级村庄

的 Bollinger 香槟，主要由黑皮诺

葡萄所酿造，在香槟界中相当罕 见。Bollinger 最近的顶级年份 La Grande Année 2014 搭配十四代黑 标，与瑶柱焗酿蟹壳一起享用，带 来平衡有致的风味。

Bollinger 的 La Grande Année 2014 带有出色的果香味及酸度，与 蟹肉的浓郁口感相得益彰。十四代 黑标比红标更胜一筹，洋溢淡雅的 瓜果和桃子香气，与瑶柱和蟹肉的 多层次海鲜鲜味十分协调。

The worlds of French Champagne and Japanese sake gracefully unite in a special pairing dinner at Forum Restaurant.

Executive Chef Adam Wong and Chief Sommelier Jacky Luk 行政总厨黄隆滔与首席侍酒师陆志文

Champagne Bollinger, which comes from the Grand Cru village of Aÿ, is unusual for Champagnes in that its cuvées are made predominantly from pinot noir grapes. Bollinger’s top recent vintage, La Grande Année 2014, was paired, along with Juyondai Black Label, with Baked Conpoy with Crabmeat in Crab Shell.

Bollinger La Grande Année 2014 exhibits an excellent fruitiness and acidity that complemented the crabmeat’s richness. Juyondai Black Label is a step above Red Label and reveals light melon and peach notes that harmonized with the complex seafood flavors of the conpoy and crabmeat.

N by Hidetoshi Nakata is an exciting collaboration between ex-professional football player Nakata Hidetoshi and Takagi Brewery. Paired with Chef Wong’s signature dish of Braised Ah Yat Abalone with Goose Web and Vegetables, it was introduced to the guests as a major highlight of the evening.

In creating his specialty, Wong braised the abalone, considered the best way to prepare Hong Kong’s favorite luxury seafood. Such slow cooking with goose web and oyster sauce brought out its supremely rich umami that matched the robust, clean style of N by Hidetoshi Nakata. The dish was a masterpiece of intriguing textures and flavors and a beautiful balance between sweetness and umami.

N by Hidetoshi Nakata 是 日本前职业足球员中田英寿和高 木酒造合作推出、众所瞩目的清 酒，配搭黄师傅的招牌菜阿一鲍 鱼扣鹅掌伴唐生菜，作为当晚菜 肴中的点睛之笔。 黄师傅以炆煮的方式来制 作这道招牌菜式。在烹调鲍鱼这 种在香港大受欢迎的海鲜时，炆 煮是公认的理想料理方法。鲍鱼 与鹅掌和蚝油一起慢慢炖煮，让 这道菜呈现出极其丰富的香气与 风味，与 N by Hidetoshi Nakata 清酒强劲、简洁的风格达成平衡。 这道菜在口感与风味上都非常引 人入胜，并平衡了甜度与鲜味， 实属极品。

Braised Star Garoupa with Sake Sauce 清酒煮东星班

Stir Fried Lobster with Melon and Champagne Sauce 香槟汁蜜瓜龙虾球

Baked Conpoy with Crab Meat in Crab Shell 瑶柱焗酿蟹盖

Deep Fried Scallop on Toast with Salty Egg 黄金带子多士 COURTESY OF JEBSEN WINES AND SPIRITS (5)

5 ON 25 五悦亭

5 Cantonese

25/F, Andaz Singapore, 5 Fraser Street, Singapore 189354

Lunch: 11:30-14:30

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

q +65 6408 1228

8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

5 Italian

Shop 1031, 1/F, Galaxy Macau™, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳門銀河™」综

合度假城1楼1031号铺

Tue-Sat: 18:00-22:30

q +853 8886 2169

A Smart casual

Children age 10 and above are welcome

Feng Wei Ju

风味居

5 Hunan and Sichuan cuisine

5/F, StarWorld Hotel, Avenida da Amizade Macau

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

q +853 8290 8668

A Smart Casual

Five Foot Road 蜀道

5 Sichuanese

G/F, MGM Cotai, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美

高梅大堂地下

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

q +853 8806 2358

Forum Restaurant 富临饭店

5 Cantonese

1/F, Sino Plaza, 255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway

Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道255-257号

Lunch: 11:30-14:30

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

q +852 2869 8282

RESTAURANT LISTINGS RESTAURANT LISTINGS RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Imperial Court 金殿堂

5 Contemporary Cantonese

VIP Hotel Lobby of MGM Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马 路澳门美高梅酒店贵宾大堂

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-15:00; Sat, Sun and public holidays: 11:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

q +853 8802 2361

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩

5 Cantonese

Level 2, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地2楼

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:30

q +853 8868 2822

A Smart Casual

Jin Sha 金沙厅

5 Zhejiang cuisine

Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake, 5 Lingyin Road, Hangzhou, Zhejiang, China 中国杭州灵隐路5号杭州西子湖 四季酒店

Lunch: 11:30-14:00

Dinner: 17:30-21:00

q +86 571 8829 8888

L’ATTITUDE 风雅厨

5 French Level 3, North Side, Morpheus, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路摩珀斯3楼北区

Lunch: 12:00-14:30

Dinner: 18:00-21:30

Closed Mon–Wed

q +853 8868 3436

Lai Heen 丽轩

5 Cantonese 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton Macau, Galaxy Macau™ Integrated Resort, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳門銀河」综合度 假城澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店51楼

Lunch: Tue-Fri: 12:00-15:00; Sat-Sun: 11:30-15:00

Dinner: Tue-Sun: 18:00-22:00

q +853 8886 6868

A Smart Casual Children age 6 or above are welcome

Louise

5 French PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环鸭巴甸街35号元创方

Lunch: Wed-Sun: 12:00-14:30

Drinks & pastries: Sat-Sun: 14:30-18:30

Dinner: Tue-Sun: 18:30-23:00

q +852 2866 0300

Mesa 味赏

5 Contemporary Portuguese Level 3, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, Rua do Trio, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹射击路澳门上葡京3楼

Lunch: Sat-Sun: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Bar: 17:00-00:00

Closed on Mondays

q +853 8881 1800

Peach Blossoms 鸿桃轩

5 Cantonese

5/F, PARKROYAL COLLECTION

Marina Bay, Singapore, 6 Raffles Boulevard, Marina Square, Singapore 039594

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:30-23:00

q +65 6854 1118

A Smart Casual

Peter

5 Steak and Grill

24/F, The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, Japan

Lunch: 11:30-14:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

Closed on Tuesdays

q +81 3 6270 2888

A Smart Casual

Sui Tang Li 随堂里

5 Contemporary Chinese Second level, The Middle House Residences, No. 366 Shi Men Yi Road, Jing’an District, Shanghai 上海市静安区石门一路366号上

海镛舍二楼

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:30-14:30; Sat-Sun: 11:00-15:00;

Dinner: 17:30-22:00

q +86 21 3216 8068

Tenmasa 天政

5 Japanese 11/F, Altira, F&B Tower, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路澳门新濠

锋11楼，餐厅大楼

Lunch: Sat-Sun: 12:00-14:30

Dinner: Thur-Tue: 18:00-22:00

q +853 2886 8868

The Italian Club Seafood

Wine Bar

5 Seafood Wine Bar

32 Elgin Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环伊利近街32号

19:00-00:00

Closed on Sundays

q +852 5808 0132

The Manor 雅舍

5 Western 1/F, The St. Regis Macao, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, s/n, Cotai, Macao 澳门路氹连贯公路澳门伦敦人 澳门瑞吉酒店1楼

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

q +853 8113 1300

A Smart Casual

Zén

5 Nordic

41 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore 089855

Lunch: 12:00-17:00

Dinner: 19:00-22:30

Closed on Sat–Mon

q +65 6534 8880

Zi Yat Heen 紫逸轩

5 Cantonese

Lobby level, Four Seasons

Hotel Macao, Estrada Da Baía

De N. Senhora Da Esperança, S/N, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔望德堂圣母湾大马路 澳门四季酒店大堂

Lunch: Mon, Thu-Sat: 12:00-14:30; Sun: 11:30-15:00

Dinner: Mon, Thu-Sun: 18:00-22:30

q +853 2881 8818