TK52 With the Grain

HONG KONG With the Grain

五谷丰登

SAN FRANCISCO Back to the Future 粤味洪流

THAILAND Be Here Now

此时此刻

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com

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Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Phoebe Yeung SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR 高级客戶总监

David Hartung

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

Mamie Chen

Marilyn Burkley

Robert Burkley

SENIOR EDITORS

资深编辑

Zita Wan

Vivian Pun ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑

ON THE COVER

Photography by David Hartung

HONG KONG

Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号 海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室

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Alicia Beebe ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑

Kate Nicholson

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏

Elaine Wong CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER 营销总监 elaine@tasting-kitchen.com

Fiona Lee HEAD OF NEW MEDIA 新媒体总监

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Jaakko Sorsa OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com

John Ng WINE & SPIRITS DIRECTOR 葡萄酒及烈酒总监

Lucy Morgan

Lucy Jenkins

Joyce Kwok

Dorothy So

Nicole Slater

Jane Ram

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家

Eddie Cheung

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA

中国内地编辑总监

Amber Qian MARCOM MANAGER, MAINLAND CHINA

市场传讯经理

From Ocean Table Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa comes a series of five newly created dishes that celebrate the origins and diversity of rice varieties across the world.

Read more starting on page 46

来自不同产地，有着不同颜色、质 感的米，在Ocean Table行政总厨 Jaakko Sorsa的巧手之下，化身为 五道精致且风味别具的菜式主角。

翻阅第46页，了解更多。

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Welcome to Tasting Kitchen

“All things under the sun will flourish when harmony prevails,” said ancient Chinese philosopher Xun Zi. Throughout China’s history and to the present day, harmony has remained one of the nation’s essential cultural values. In this issue, With the Grain, TK examines how this unifying principle of balance has influenced not only Chinese culture and cuisine but also the wider world beyond.

In Hong Kong, our eponymous cover feature celebrates China’s traditional staple food and the profusion of intriguing rice varieties across the planet. Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa of TK’s Ocean Table creates a series of five new dishes that turn the everyday into the exceptional by harmonizing that most ubiquitous of grains with a contrasting range of sumptuous ingredients.

From San Francisco, our story “Back to the Future” tells of a visionary chef who harmonizes past and present by revitalizing one of Chinatown’s historic but rather tired dining institutions. Bringing Empress of China into the modern world as Empress by Boon, Chef Ho Chee Boon strikes a perfect balance between tradition and innovation, preserving key decorative elements while elevating the Cantonese cuisine with contemporary flair.

In Thailand, our feature “Be Here Now” relates one man’s journey to inner harmony and tells the story of how he and a group of like-minded friends transformed a remote, hidden refuge on the island of Koh Phangan into The Sanctuary Thailand, one of the world’s premier destinations for wellness and spiritual renewal.

We also learn how an international hotel group harmonizes its global brand image with China’s local cultures, how the history of fine dining in China is one of continuing harmonization of Eastern and Western approaches, and how a tea master and a designer of luxury tea ware are collaborating to bring China’s ancient and harmonious art of tea to everyone.

So come along as we discover some of the many wonderful things the world brings forth when harmony prevails.

亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。

中国古代哲学家荀子曾说：「列星随 旋，日月递照，四时代御，阴阳大化，风雨 博施，万物各得其和以生。」纵观中国历史， 直至今日，和谐仍是这个国家的基本文化价 值之一。在本期中，TK 探讨了关于「平衡」 如何影响中国文化和美食，同时跨越国界影 响了广袤的世界。

本期的主题故事是「五谷丰登」，向 中国的传统主食与地球上各种独特的稻米品 种致敬。TK 的 Ocean Table 行政主厨 Jaakko Sorsa 创造了五道全新料理，将常见的稻米 谷物与反差强烈的丰富食材相互结合，让日 常食材摇身一变成为独一无二的料理。

在旧金山，我们的专题故事「 味洪 流」介绍一位极有远见的厨师，他重新复 苏唐人街一家历史悠久的餐厅，完美揉合 过去与现在的风格。主厨何志文将 Empress of China 带进新现代，蜕变为 Empress by Boon，在传统与创新之间取得平衡，保留关 键的装饰元素，同时以现代手法提升粤菜档 次。

来到泰国，我们的专题「此时此刻」 讲述一名男子的内在和谐之旅，并描述他 和一群志同道合的朋友如何将帕岸岛上一 个偏远、隐蔽的庇护所，改造成度假村 The Sanctuary，成为世界上最举足轻重的健康与 精神复苏圣地。

我们还发现有一家国际酒店集团，将 其全球品牌形象与中国的本土文化相互调 和，同时也了解到中国高级餐饮的历史至今 仍持续结合各种东西方的元素。另外，一位 茶艺师与奢华瓷器设计师携手合作，将中国 古老、和谐的茶艺带给全世界。

太平盛世造就出许多美妙的事物，欢 迎与我们一同探索。请享受悦读时光。

immersed in nature

A local painter’s lush and vivid images reflect the ethos of a Balinese resort committed to cultural integration.

Heliconia Colour by Balinese artist I Wayan Januariawan celebrates the vibrancy of nature in Ubud. 峇里岛艺术家I Wayan Januariawan用作品《Heliconia Colour》留住乌布的自然风光。

Life lives close to the water in Ubud, as represented by the water lilies in I Wayan Januariawan’s Good Morning. 作品《Good Morning》反映了 乌布人「靠水吃水」的生活。

with the grain | TK | 9

UBUD, LONG CONSIDERED Bali’s creative hub, has for centuries been home to painters, sculptors, dancers, and spiritual masters, who have practiced their crafts alongside rice farmers, laborers, and families.

This unique mix of traditional agricultural practices and artistic sensibilities inspires the flora-focused works of Ubud-born artist I Wayan Januariawan, known as Donal. Throughout October of last year, a collection of his paintings was on display at Amandari, a Balinese property under the Aman resort umbrella.

The canvases, which include a selection of new works, are filled with images of the tropical flora abundant on the island. Brilliant sky blues and vibrant reds and greens leap from the walls, making viewers feel as though they’re in the midst of an interior garden. “I enjoy being immersed amongst all nature, feeling the flow of the wind,” says Donal. “I love simplicity, botany, and landscapes. I like to observe simple things like morning sunlight falling on the green leaves.” He pays particular attention to edible species like banana flowers, often crafts reminiscences of familiar scenes of morning food preparation, and highlights the angular “beaks” of the heliconia blossoms so familiar to Bali residents and visitors.

Since 2021, Amandari has exhibited works by local artists, photographers, and architects. Curators Radit Mahindro, regional director of marketing for Aman Indonesia, and Trisna Dewi, retail director of Aman Indonesia, focus on traditional techniques, philosophical themes, and emerging artists.

乌布向来被视为峇里岛的文化创意中心，几世纪以 来一直是画家、雕塑家、舞蹈家和灵性大师的居住 地，这些艺术家与稻农、劳工和当地家庭共同实践 自己的技艺。这种传统农业与艺术实践的特有结合， 让出生于乌布的艺术家 I Wayan Januariawan（人称 Donal）发展出一系列以植物为主题的作品。去年 十月，他的绘画作品在安曼集团度假村旗下的峇里 岛 Amandari 展出。 这些画作当中包括几幅新的作品，全都展现出 岛上丰富的热带植物形象。灿烂的天蓝色和充满活 力的红色、绿色从墙上跃然而出，让观者感觉仿佛 置身室内花园之中。Donal 表示：「我喜欢沉浸在大 自然中，感受风的流动。我喜欢简约、植物生态和 风景。我喜欢观察简单的东西，例如洒落在绿叶上 的晨曦。」他特别关注可食用的植物，例如香蕉花， 也经常透过画笔来重现在早晨准备餐食的熟悉场 景。在他的画中，鹦黄赫蕉的尖角「喙」也是反覆 出现的主题，这是一种对峇里岛居民与游客来说相 当常见的花卉。

BY KATE NICHOLSON • ART BY I WAYAN JANUARIAWAN

“I think Amandari is a tribute to Balinese nature, people, and culture on the part of Peter Muller, its Australian architect,” notes Mahindro. “What we’re doing here, whether experiences or exhibitions, should always be a natural extension of this spirit. And the fact that Amandari is in Ubud, the island’s cultural capital, makes this commitment even more relevant.”

Donal, in fact, has spent his entire thirty-six years in Ubud surrounded by artists: “Everywhere I go, I meet artists, painters, sculptors, dancers. What has influenced my art and personality the most has been the artistic society that surrounds me.” And despite the commercialism and tourism of the past few decades, the rural locale has managed to stay true to its roots. “Ubud, from past to present, still has the same artistic energy – only the form of the culture is different. We keep our traditions, but, in part, we’ve become a modern society using smartphones and digital technology.”

This cultural continuity is partly due to resorts like Amandari taking their responsibilities to the local community seriously.

“Art,” says Mahindro, “is a mix of pure reflection and intuitive thinking on the part of artists in response to their natural, social, and built environments. Having artworks as part of our resort helps to provide a better understanding of the history of the destination and to foster cultural exchanges.”

2021 年初以来，Amandari 已经 展出一系列当地艺术家、摄影师和建 筑师的作品。印尼安曼区域行销总监 Radit Mahindro，以及印尼安曼零售 总监 Trisna Dewi，都将策展重点摆

在传统技艺、哲学主题以及新兴艺术 家上。

Radit 说：「这是刻意为之的决定。在我看来， Amandari 是澳洲建筑师 Peter Muller 向峇里岛的大 自然、人民与文化致敬的产物。我们在 Amandari 策划的活动，无论是体验还是展览，都应该要自然 流畅地延续这种精神。Amandari 位于乌布，也就是

这座岛屿的文化重镇，这让我们的目标更有意义。」

事实上，现年三十六岁的 Donal 从未离开过乌 布，身边永远都有艺术家相伴。「不管我走到哪里都 会遇到艺术家、画家、雕塑家、舞蹈家。对我的创 作与性格来说影响最大的，就是围绕在身边的艺术 社群。」虽然过去几十年来乌布越来越商业化，旅 游业也日渐蓬勃，但这座农村依然保有其本色。「从 过去到现在，乌布依然保有同样的艺术能量，只是 文化的形式略有改变而已。我们保有自己的传统， 但是在某种程度上也已经变成一个使用智慧型手机 与数码科学的现代社会。」

文化传统之所以能够延续，有一部份要感谢 Amandari 等度假村重视当地社群的文化。Radit 表 示：「艺术是艺术家在回应自然、社会与建成环境， 透过纯粹反思与直觉思考催生而出的产物。当艺术 成为度假村的一部份，就能让观者或宾客进一步了 解这个地区的历史，进而促进文化交流。」

I Wayan Januariawan’s Morning Flash shows a woman preparing a traditional Balinese breakfast.

在《Morning Flash》中， 一位妇人正在准备一顿 传统的峇里早餐。 with

时空着墨

ink, space, and time

FOR HONG KONG ARTIST YAU WING FUNG, ink is not only a medium but also a spark to his imagination and a provocation to unexpected emotions. His large, semiabstract works in Chinese ink and mixed media, which have been shown throughout Asia and around the world, are perceived by many to reveal Cubist influences, although the artist does not claim the label.

BY KATE NICHOLSON

• ART BY YAU WING FUNG

Renowned for his skill in combining traditional techniques with contemporary elements, Yau, who has been using ink as his primary medium since the beginning of his career, creates landscapes that recall both ancient mountain ranges and modern satellite imagery. “I’ve always been very interested in the space-time relationship of traditional Chinese landscape painting, known as shan shui ( 山水 ),” he says. He is particularly inspired by

对香港书画家邱荣丰而言，水墨不只是创作媒介， 更激荡了他的灵感和情绪的波澜。邱荣丰的大型 半抽象作品结合中国水墨画和各式媒介，声名远 播全球。虽然邱荣丰本人不以立体派 画家自居，却有许多人认为其作品受 立体派风格影响。 邱荣丰以水墨作为主要创作媒介， 其作品以结合传统技法和当代元素闻 名，像是将现代卫星影像概念融入山 峰的描绘。他说：「我一直对中国山水 画中的『时空』概念抱有极大兴趣。」邱荣丰的作 品尤其受卫星影像从高空鸟瞰、物件层层推叠的 视觉特性启发，卫星每分钟捕捉的影像对肉眼而 言犹如动画般，建构出邱荣丰独特的视觉语言。

Yau Wing Fung’s ink paintings bridge the gap between ancient Chinese landscape art and modern satellite imagery.

the way satellites’ remote sensors capture landscapes as multiple overlapping images. The minute time differences between the individual photos are detected as changes by the human eye, and it is these time gaps that inform Yau’s visual language.

“There are many geometric divisions in my works that express the existence of time and its passing,” says Yau. Throughout these angular spaces, the artist intersperses clouds and smoke, sometimes connected, sometimes not. The rocks he depicts reject obvious mountain profiles. “I hope the viewer experiences a feeling of inseparability by wandering in a multifaceted time and space.” To achieve his unique, disarranged landscapes, Yau embraces the concept of negative space, or liu bai ( 留白 ), which he calls “a mysterious storyteller.” This “invisible ink,” he feels, is what completes the picture. “Every brushstroke, line, or dot is unique,” he says. “They can’t be duplicated or reversed. The

Transition Scene III by Hong Kong artist Yau Wing Fung is an ink-on-silk work first exhibited at Art Basel Hong Kong 2021.

香港艺术家邱荣丰的作品《渡景03》 在2021年香港巴塞尔艺术展展出。

邱荣丰说：「我在作品中以几何区块表现时 间的存在与推移。」画面里云烟点缀，时而交错、 时而重叠，岩石也没有分明的轮廓。他说：「我 希望观者透过更多元的时空视角，体会『交契合 一』之感。」邱荣丰以留白手法，创造山水景物 散落的视觉效果。他称留白为「神秘的说书人」， 因为正是这些「空白」完整了作品。他说：「每一 笔、一画、一点，都是独一无二的。一旦下笔便 无法回头，每一笔一画也不会相同。水墨画不只 描摹了物件的形象，更捕捉了作品当下的精神。」 虽然邱荣丰时常被挂上「新生代书画家」的 称号，他却不以为意。他说：「虽然听上去是赞赏， 但老实说，『新生代』对我而言并没有意义，不 过是商人定义当代艺术的手法罢了。」邱荣丰相

For Endless (2019), artist Yau Wing Fung mounted ink-and-color-on-paper works onto enormous wooden wheels.

邱荣丰把纸本水墨作品裱在巨大的木轮上，创作《Endless》(2019)。

→

Yau Wing Fung’s Meta-1 (2022) is a series of nine ink-and-color-on-paper works, each measuring 45 x 6 cm.

《Meta-1》(2022)是一組九件的水墨紙本作品，每张大小为45 x 6厘米。

brushwork not only depicts the objects or motifs but also expresses the spirit of that exact moment of work.”

Yau is often called a “new-generation” ink artist, but he considers the label irrelevant: “It sounds positive, but honestly, the term new generation means nothing to me. It’s a marketing tool, a way of defining a contemporary trend.” Ink art, he believes, is an ancient form that develops with every new generation. Traditional elements – like labels and terms – are simply expressions of their time. “What artists need to face,” he says, “is how to better present their thoughts and opinions through their artworks rather than considering tradition or innovation.”

To Yau, rice paper is as essential to the art of ink painting as ink is to the art of calligraphy. It has been the material of choice since before the Tang dynasty and is in his view the only surface that can properly “carry” ink, dry or wet, light or dark. “The ink and the paper reflect and respond to a painter’s breath and emotion,” he says. “Rice represents the source of life for human beings, and rice paper represents the source of life for ink art.”

Today, Yau invests as much time in the education of young ink artists as he does in creating his own works. He teaches at the tertiary level and is pursuing a PhD in the work of C. C. Wang, famed Chinese collector, painter, and calligrapher.

His inspirations are varied: from random sounds to sci-fi films and standup comedy, from a stain on a brick or a crack in a wall to his collection of old objects. “We can see the traces of history and nature in ancient relics,” says Yau, “and the spirit and perseverance of the craftsmen in the details.”

信水墨画会随着时代演变，而把水墨画 定位为「传统」艺术，不过是点出水墨 画的起源罢了。他说：「艺术家必须把心 力放在创作上，思考如何透过作品传达 理念，而非执着于传统或创新与否。」

对邱荣丰而言，米纸之于水墨画的 重要性，犹如水墨之于书法艺术。早在 唐代以前，米纸就是水墨画创作常用的 媒介，也是邱荣丰认为唯一能衬托出水 墨「浓淡干湿」的素材。他说：「创作者 的气韵和情绪，会反映在水墨和纸张上。 米有『生命泉源』之意，而米纸则有『书 画泉源』之意。」

创作之余，邱荣丰也投入相当多时 间培养年轻一辈的水墨画家。他目前在 大学授课，同时攻读博士学位，研究中 国著名收藏家及书画家王己千的作品。

邱荣丰的创作取材多元，从随机音 效到科幻电影、单口喜剧，从砖块上的 污点、墙上的裂痕到个人古董收藏，都 是他创作的灵感来源。他说：「从历史古 迹中，你可以看见历史变迁和自然运行 的轨迹，也可以从细节中感受到创作者 的精神与坚持。」

hands-on beauty 侘寂之美

A new Singapore boutique makes artisanalyet-functional tableware available to everyone.

← A ceramic bowl by Kinrei finished in a matte-with-shimmer glaze Kinrei雾面哑光陶碗

↑ Ceramic Miyake bowls with a black matte finish Miyake黑色雾面陶碗

↓ Miyake plates Miyake陶盘

INSPIRED

“A LOT OF MAKERS of beautiful tableware only serve Michelin-star restaurants,” says Annie Li, co-owner of Singapore-based tableware boutique Artifactt. “As consumers, we don’t get access to their products, but we still need those aesthetics at mealtimes to delight us and our families and friends.”

Li believes that homeware that is artisanal, embracing imperfection in the spirit of the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, has the potential to add value to everyday life. And that is precisely what atelier-focused Artifactt embodies. Li founded it in late 2021 with her partner, Chris Lee, an interior designer and founder of Singapore-based design firm Asylum. The timing proved apt, since people worldwide were forced to take a long hard look at their homes and the contents during extended lockdowns. In fact, Li and Lee took advantage of the downtime to renovate their own house. It was their quest for appropriate tableware that partly inspired their decision to start a store. “Our place has an industrial look, and we couldn’t find

Textural Miyake ceramic tableware in two styles

带有特殊花纹设计的 Miyake陶盘

新加坡精品餐具品牌 Artifactt 共同创办人

Annie Li 说：「大家在宴请亲朋好友时，大多

会希望使用设计精美的餐具。不过，很多漂亮 的餐具只供应给米其林星级餐厅使用，一般消 费者不太容易购买得到。」

Annie 相信手工餐具蕴含拥抱「不完美」 的「侘寂」美学，可以为生活带来

BY KATE NICHOLSON

更多细节，也是 Artifactt 所追求的 美学精神。Annie 与丈夫 Chris Lee

于 2021 年底创办 Artifactt ；Chris 是一名平面设计师，同时也是新加坡设计公司 Asylum 的创办人。Artifactt 品牌创立之初正

something to fit,” Li says. “I started searching and realized there was a gap in the market.”

The boutique stocks wares from European luxury brands, like Belgium’s Serax, that are usually only seen in hotels and restaurants. But it also offers a carefully curated selection of items from leading Japanese brands and independent makers outside and inside Singapore. While their international offerings come from a combination of sourcing agents, online research, and attending trade shows like Ambiente in Frankfurt, wares sourced closer to home are found at exhibitions. “I think it’s important to involve the local people and culture,” says Li, “so we’re constantly talking to Singaporean artists.”

It is telling that most items are made from natural materials like clay, wood, soapstone, and cast iron. The hands-on character, the touch and feel of a piece, is vital to the Artifactt experience. But therein lies the challenge: artisanal bowls, plates, and utensils are simply not made with home use in mind and are “not really for every family because they require a lot of care – you can’t just dump them in the sink.” To ensure that customers can trust that what is offered in-store or online will perform once it’s in their home, Li personally tests every item before it enters Artifactt’s selection and consults clients on which pieces will best suit their needs and style of living.

Artifactt’s flagship store is in a compact concept mall named Palais Renaissance that focuses on high-end international products – a good fit, since Li started the brand with global ambitions. But first the company needs to perfect its global shipping process and personnel profile. “Building up a good team is important,” she says. “We always try to do things step by step so we get them right.”

说：「我们的住处走工业风，但我到处找，都 找不到适合搭配的餐具，也让我发现了餐具器 皿市场的商机。」

Artifactt 严选欧洲精品餐具品牌，包括比 利时的 Serax，当中许多品牌大多只会在餐厅 或酒店里出现。此外，Artifactt 也精选日本各 大餐具品牌，以及新加坡国内外的独立品牌。 虽然多数国外选物是透过代理商、网络、大型 商品展览（如德国法兰克福春季消费品展）等 管道购入，也有部分商品来自当地的小型展览。

Annie 说：「Artifactt 必须融入当地元素，未来

也希望多和新加坡的本地创作者合作。」

Artifactt 重视餐具器皿的手感，选品多以 陶土、木头、皂石、铸铁等自然素材制成。正 因为这种餐具并非为了「家用」而设计，在清 洁和保养上也有许多细节，不能随便丢进水槽 洗洗就好。为了维持商品品质，Artifactt 贩售 的每一款商品都由 Annie 亲自试用和把关，也 会为消费者提供相关购买建议，以确保选购的 餐具能符合消费者的需求和住宅风格。

Artifactt 旗舰店位于精品百货 Palais Renaissance 内，该百货公司主打高端国际精 品品牌，刚好与 Annie 拓展全球市场的野心不 谋而合。不过，品牌创立之初仍须加强全球配 送网络和人事系统的建立。她说：「最重要的 莫过于打造一支好团队，并且按部就班、逐步 向目标前进。」

One-of-a-kind Sabiha Hiwa plate with a vibrant green glaze Sabiha Hiwa陶盘，盘上有翠绿色块

The Aroma collection is designed with specific technical characteristics to facilitate brewing the perfect cup of any type of tea with effortless precision.

a brewing revolution 品茗革命

With its Aroma collection, RUYI introduces the world to the perfect cup of tea.

香氲系列茶具的设计具有技术特色，可轻 松且精确地冲泡出任何种类的完美茗茶。

“FRESHNESS OF PUMPKIN, aromas of mushrooms, iodine notes of shells, mineral notes of cement, fruity notes of dried persimmons. Tannins mellowed with age. Soft to the palate.” Maître Yu Hui Tseng’s tasting notes for a 1983 pu’er shu cha could easily be mistaken for those of a fine Bordeaux, which is exactly the point.

“Until a few decades ago, there was no way of talking about tea,” says Tseng, a renowned tea master from Maison de Trois Thés in Paris. “There was no vocabulary to describe it. To advance its recognition as a fine delicacy around the world, I created a method of analytical tasting that allows people to understand tea beyond cultures.”

As a team of Dom Pérignon oenologists learned during a recent visit with Tseng, an infinite range of aromas and flavors are to be found in tea. And anyone familiar with the art of wine appreciation would be able to apply the same notions of attack, length, liquor body fullness and robustness, and flavor complexity to the art of tea appreciation. But, whereas wine is simply uncorked and perhaps decanted, tea must first be brewed.

And that, warns Tseng, can be very difficult to get right. She had been teaching the intricacies of proper tea brewing to sommeliers and aspiring connoisseurs for thirty years when Desmond Chang, founder of luxury Asian lifestyle brand RUYI, visited her in Paris and proposed a collaboration to design and produce a prestige collection of tea ware. “I think the art of tea is a gift from the Orient,” he says, “but the application of it should be worldwide. If people understand and appreciate the delicate, subtle-yet-complex flavors of tea, they can embrace a different fulfillment of sensation than they are normally used to.”

Chang also understood that any initiative to spread tea appreciation beyond cultural borders would mean making a commitment to precision, one long accepted by oenophiles. Following three years of careful research, design, development, and testing, RUYI released its full Aroma collection of teapots, teacups, decanters, and nosing cups, all with specific technical characteristics that facilitate brewing the perfect cup of any type of tea with effortless precision.

The various shapes of the teacups affect how teas express their flavors. 茶杯的不同形状会影 响茶的表现方式。

「南瓜的清新、蘑菇的芳香、贝壳的碘香、水泥的矿物味、柿子干 的果香。单宁酸随着时间推移而愈发成熟，口感柔和。」茶艺大师 曾毓慧写下的一九八三年份普洱茶品茶笔记，很容易被误以为是 品尝波尔多美酒的品酒笔记，而这就是重点所在。

巴黎 Maison des Trois Thés（桃花源茶坊）著名茶道大师曾 毓慧表示：「数十年前，我们还没有办法好好谈茶。当时还没有任 何词汇来形容茶。为了让茶无与伦比的美味受到世界认可，我创 造了一种分析式品茗技术，让人们能够跨越文化的藩 篱来品茶。」

BY MAMIE CHEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

Since each tea is best brewed at a particular water temperature, RUYI, rather than relying on tea

唐培里侬香槟王的酒窖大师最近在访问曾毓慧时 了解到，茶其实蕴含无限香气与味道。任何熟悉葡萄 酒鉴赏艺术的人，都能将酒入口的第一印象、香气停 留在味蕾的时间、酒体的饱满和力道，以及风味的层 次等，应用在品茶上。但是，喝葡萄酒只需将酒瓶打开， 接着再将酒倾倒而出即可，但喝茶得先进行冲泡。 曾大师表示这才是品茶最困难的关键。亚洲生活哲学品牌 「如意」的创始人张聪到巴黎拜访她，并提议合作设计生产一系列 尊贵的茶具时，她已经具备三十年的教学经验，专门教导侍酒师 与鉴赏家繁复而正确的泡茶方式。张聪说道：「我觉得茶道的艺术

A variety of teapots and teacups in pearl blue with kintsugi pattern 带有金继裂痕图纹的 苍青色茶壶及茶杯

makers to guess correctly or use a thermometer, has created a line of teapots that are filled with cold water up to a visual marker and then topped with boiling water at 100°C to automatically blend to the ideal temperature.

Pu’er teas, for example, should be steeped in very hot water, and RUYI ’s thick-walled teapot acts like a thermos, maintaining the high temperature to extract the maximum potential from this fully fermented tea. In contrast, green teas are best brewed at relatively cooler temperatures, and the thin-walled RUYI teapot releases the heat as quickly as possible to protect the brew’s delicate nuances.

Another consideration is teacup shape, which, by guiding the degree of oxidation it allows and how much aroma it collects within, also affects the way a tea expresses itself. “One does not drink white wine in the same glass as red wine or Champagne,” notes Tseng, “and one will no longer drink green tea in the same cup as black or oolong.”

Aroma collection teacups are elevated on pedestal-like saucers, a tribute to Song dynasty tea bowl stands. “It is beautiful, but it is also vulnerable,” says Chang. “It is delicate, and it is uneasy. When you take a moment to appreciate it, you are in full awareness of that treasure and also of an important message about the art of tea.”

是来自东方的礼物，但茶道的技艺应该是普 世共有的。如果民众能了解并欣赏茶那精巧、 微妙又复杂的味道，就能感受到不同于平常 习惯的感官享受。」 张聪也明白，想要跨越文化边界来传递 茶道，就必须在「精准」上下功夫，而这也 是茶道行家一直以来谨守的精神。经过三年 精心研究、设计、开发与测试，如意发表了 完整香氲系列茶壶、茶杯、分茶器和闻香杯， 所有产品都具备独一无二的技术特色，能毫 不费力地精准冲泡出任何类型的完美茗茶。

由于每种茶叶都有特定的最佳冲泡水温， 如意让茶艺师不需猜测或使用温度计，而是 创造出一系列有着水位标记的茶壶，先将冷 水注入到标记的水位，再以 100°C 的热水浇 灌，便能自动混合出理想的冲泡温度。

比方说，普洱茶要用非常热的水来冲泡， 而如意的厚壁茶壶就像一个能够维持温度的 保温瓶，从这种完全发酵的茶叶中提取香气 与浑厚的茶汤。相较之下，绿茶最好在相对 较低的温度下冲泡，薄壁的如意茶壶能尽快 释放热量，来保有绿茶幽微清雅的芬芳。 另一项需要考量的因素是茶杯的形状， 茶承装在茶杯中的氧化程度以及茶杯保有香 气的能力，也会影响到茶香的表现方式。曾 大师指出：「我们不会把白葡萄酒和红葡萄酒 或香槟装在同一个酒杯里饮用，所以也不会 用同一个茶杯来品尝绿茶、红茶或乌龙茶。」 香氲系列茶杯摆放在有如底座一般的底 托上，此设计是向宋代的茶托致敬。张聪表示： 「茶艺既美丽又脆弱，既细致又让人肃然起敬。 花点时间去欣赏茶，会充分意识到茶的珍贵， 同时也能领略到茶道的重要旨意。」

Aroma collection in white with kintsugi pattern 带有金继图纹的白色香氲系列茶具

FOR AT LEAST THE PAST DECADE, food resource sustainability has been a topic of worldwide concern for chefs, restaurateurs, and producers. Now those in other fields, including designers, have begun to apply their expertise to the issue of food conservation. One such is Tokyo-born, Toyama-based designer Fumiaki Goto, whose experiments are transforming sake into a drink for the future.

BY KATE NICHOLSON

What makes Goto’s sake different from traditional brews is that he makes it by fermenting waste from biodegradable plastic that is made from rice. “Rice plastic was originally invented to reduce the consumption of petroleum plastic,” he explains. “The manufacturer is located in Niigata prefecture, which has a lot of rice farming, so they substitute rice for petroleum in their plastic.”

Goto, who calls his patented method the Plastic SAKE Brewery, has partnered with a Japanese manufacturer, Biomass Resin Minamiuonuma Co. Ltd, to create a unique rice plastic blend for the project.

Sake is made by converting the starches in rice into glucose, a process achieved through fermentation. The tricky part for Goto was sourcing the fermentation culture. In Japan, only registered breweries can access koji-kin, the Japanese common name for the fungus species Aspergillus oryzae. But Goto was lucky – he lives in Toyama, a city that is home to Ishiguro Tanekojiten, a family business that just happens to make some of the highest-quality, highest-glucoseproducing koji-jin in the country.

在过去的至少十年间，食品资源的永续性一直是全球 厨师、餐饮业老板和生产商关注的话题。今时今日， 包括设计师在内的其他领域专业人士，已经开始将他 们的专业知识应用在食品保存技术上。生于东京、住 在富山的设计师 Fumiaki Goto 就是其中之 一，他的实验正将清酒转变成一种人们可 以在未来畅饮的饮品。

Goto 的清酒与传统清酒的差异，在 于他用来酿造清酒的素材是由白米制成的 可生物降解塑料。他解释道：「白米塑料一开始之所 以问世，是为了减少石油塑料的消耗。制造商位于大 量种植水稻的新泻县，所以他们用白米替代石油来制 作塑料。」

Goto 将他的专利方法命名为 Plastic SAKE Brewery，他与日本制造商 Biomass Resin Minamiuonuma 合作，打造出一款独一无二的白米塑 料混制清酒。

清酒的酿造原理是藉由发酵，将白 米中的淀粉转换为葡萄糖。对 Goto 来说，最棘手的部 分是寻找发酵

剂 , 因

brewing plastic 塑造酒酿

Japanese designer Fumiaki Goto is shaking up the drink scene by turning plastic waste into sustainable sake.

Japanese designer Fumiaki Goto transforms bioplastic made from rice into sake. 日本设计师 Fumiaki Goto 用以白米制成的可生物降解 塑料酿造清酒。

Brewing his sake at home, Goto continues to experiment with flavor and quality while maintaining his full-time work for design clients. He is currently looking for partners in Japan to take his results to a commercial level. “My project is still in the beginning phase,” he says, “and I need to do more experiments to implement this in society. This year, I plan to apply for some acceleration programs in order to get budgeted funds and create a team with specialists from various industries, such as brewing, engineering, and farming.

“This undertaking approaches sustainability from different aspects,” he says. “Most biodegradable plastic cannot be composted in gardens but needs to be disposed of in industrial composters. But Japan doesn’t have many composters, and the waste is just incinerated. So, if breweries are able to play a disposal role, the situation can change.”

And the benefits of brewing sake from bioplastic waste, he believes, are not limited to Japan: “Fortunately, alcohol production has a long history, and each culture has its own alcoholic beverages. Instead of rice, we can use local grains as raw plastic materials. The waste can then be turned into local alcoholic beverages. In other words, this project can be localized and not rely on global supply chains.”

Goto feels that designers should play a role in connecting new technologies with local culture and traditions and that that is exactly what Plastic SAKE Brewery is on the path to achieving. The motivation behind the project, he says, is to export the concept of omiki, a Shinto ritual that offers sake to nature deities to thank them for a good harvest: “Although this ritual is really common in my country, I came to realize that the concept was unfamiliar to people in other countries. Zen culture could contribute to solving the consumption problems we all face.”

为在日本，只有注册的酿酒厂能取得米麴菌（日本对 真菌物种 Aspergillus oryzae 的通称）。但 Goto 很幸

运，因为他住在富山市，正好是全国品质最佳、葡萄 糖含量最高的麴菌制造商 Ishiguro Tanekojiten 的所 在地。

全职担任设计师的 Goto 在家中酿造清酒，并持

续在风味和品质上进行试验。他目前在日本寻找合作 伙伴，将自己的试验成果推向商业市场。他说：「我 的计划目前仍处于初始阶段。我需要做更多实验才能 推出这项产品。今年，我计划申请一些加速项目来获 得预算资金，并创建一个由各行各业的专家组成的团 队，包括酿酒、工程以及农业领域的合作伙伴。」

他表示：「这项计划从不同面向来发展永续。多 数可生物降解的塑料无法拿到花园里制作堆肥，必须 透过工业堆肥机来处理。但日本的堆肥机有限，废弃 物会被直接拿去焚烧。所以说，如果酿酒厂能够处理 这些废弃物，情况就会得到改善。」

而他认为，用生物塑料废弃物来酿造清酒的好 处不仅限于日本：「幸好酿酒的历史相当悠久，每个 文化都有属于自己的酒精饮品。我们能用当地的谷物 来取代稻米，作为塑料原料，然后这些废弃物就能被 转化为当地的酒精饮料。换言之，这个计划能够在各 地实行，不需要依赖全球供应链。」

Goto 认为，设计师的任务是将新技术与当地 文化和传统相互连结、发挥效用，而这正是 Plastic SAKE Brewery 正在实践的目标。他说这个计划背后 的动机是宣扬神道教仪式 omiki 的概念，意义在于将 清酒献给自然神灵，感谢他们让民众获得丰收。「虽 然这种仪式在我国相当普遍，但我发现这对其他国家 的人来说相对陌生；在解决全人类面临的消耗资源问 题方面，禅宗文化或许能带来一些贡献。」

在解决全人类面临的消耗资源问题方 面，禅宗文化或许能带来一些贡献。

Fumiaki Goto

①

Goto worked with a local manufacturer to produce the specific rice bioplastic used for his project.

Goto与一间本地制 造商合作，打造白米 塑料混制清酒。

②

The lees left over from the sake brewing process are highly nutritious.

清酒酿造过程中留下的 酒糟营养非常丰富。

③

Rice bioplastic is typically used to create household objects.

以白米制成的可生 物降解塑料多用来 制成家居用品。

④

The designer brews his sake at home but hopes to collaborate with a commercial brewery in the future.

Goto在家中酿造清酒， 并希望将来能与酿酒 厂达成商业合作。

⑤

In the future, rice bioplastic items such as these may be chipped and recycled into sake.

类似的大米可生物降解 塑料产品将可被切粒并 回收，用来酿造清酒。

“Zen culture could contribute to solving the consumption problems we all face.

THE NEWLY OPENED Shaoxing Wine Reception Room in the city of Shaoxing in China’s eastern province of Zhejiang rises along the banks of the Dashu River. The energetic edifice, a terraced assemblage of 4.8-meter-square cubes, is located on the site of an abandoned wine production facility.

Although it closed in the 2000s, some ruins, like a brick chimney stack, still rise from the ground, kept by the design team of China-based architectural firm gad as a tribute to history. The rejuvenated site now functions as an experience center, catering to visitors to the area who come to sample and buy the country’s most famous “yellow wine,” an exclusive rice wine that must be made in Shaoxing to be authentic.

位于中国东部浙江省绍兴市新开幕的绍兴黄酒 小镇会客厅，沿着大树江畔而建。这座充满活 力的平台阶梯式结构建筑，是由 4.8 立方米的 方块组合而成的，而这里先前是一座生产黄酒 的作坊。

BY KATE NICHOLSON

According to gad Design Director Zhang Wei, the client who commissioned the structure, Sunac Real Estate, “wanted to create a building with a new concept and distinctive characteristics. It had to adapt to functional changes and needs across different periods and in some way relate to the

虽然酒坊在 2000 年便关闭了，但原酒坊 的砖砌烟囱仍然矗立于此。为尊 重场所的历史，中国建筑公司 gad 杰地设计的设计团队将此处保留 下来，并进行利用。酒坊经改造 后成为体验馆，为前来品尝和购买著名「绍兴 黄酒」的游客提供服务。要知道，只有在绍兴 酿造的米酒，才是独一无二的纯正绍兴黄酒。

根据 gad 设计总监张微介绍，该项目的 委托客户融创房地产集团希望能创造一个概念 新颖又吸引人的特色建筑。新建筑必须满足不

江畔美酒

wine beside the water

A strikingly modern structure is designed to echo local tradition while adapting to changing contemporary needs.

region and rice wine.” Future plans for functional changes, in fact, call for its transformation into a commercial complex with cafes, bookstores, and shops.

Guided by these overarching requirements, gad constructed the building predominantly from durable and sustainable finished bamboo products. “The color and texture of bamboo are warm, friendly, and compatible with nature,” explains Zhang. “Elements from Jiangnan folk houses permeate the frames and enclosures of the building. Examples are the deep eaves and ancient Chinese-style window sunshades on the building’s façade, which create a ventilated indoor environment, reducing the need for air-conditioning.

“The sense of space and the shadows projected into the building by the natural light and surrounding landscape mitigate the visual volume and make the building more modest and transparent,” says Zhang. “We hope visitors can taste rice wine, drink coffee, and read quietly in this natural environment.”

同时期的功能和使用需求的变化，并在某种程 度上反映该地区的地方传统与黄酒文化。事实 上，这里未来会变成一个同时有咖啡厅、书店 与商店等功能的综合性建筑。

在业主的设计需求下，gad 使用耐久以及

永续的再生竹木作为主要建造材料。张微解释 道：「竹子的颜色与质地温暖、亲切，能融入 自然环境。江南民居的元素也出现在建筑的架 构与围墙当中，像是外墙上向外延伸的屋檐以 及中国传统风格的窗户遮阳板，这些构造能让 室内更通风，减少冷气的使用。」

「空间感以及自然光和周围景观投射到建 筑中的阴影，让整体视觉效果更轻盈，也使整 栋建筑更内敛透明。」张微表示：「我们希望游 客能在这里品尝美酒、喝咖啡，静静地阅读， 享受自然的美好。」

appetizing interiors 引人入胜

CRIDA 2022 honors the year’s most noteworthy achievements in restaurant design across China.

CO-ORGANIZED BY TASTING KITCHEN (TK), the region’s leading luxury lifestyle media group, and Hotel & Shop Plus Shanghai, China’s premier hospitality and retailer trade show, CRIDA is the country’s most industry-influential design awards event.

Presented annually for excellence in domestic dining space design, the awards recognize accomplishments that demonstrate outstanding integration of art and function, provide new concepts to the burgeoning Chinese dining industry, and set elevated standards for innovation in catering space design. CRIDA’s panel of judges is selected from among those with influence and prestige in the fields of design, art, and gastronomy.

媒体 Tasting Kitchen（TK）和 Hotel & Shop Plus 上海 国际酒店及商业空间博览会共同举办，是国内最具产业 影响力的设计大奖。

BY ROBERT BURKLEY

该奖项每年颁发一次，旨在表扬国内餐饮空间设计 的卓越成就，以及发掘完美结合艺术与实用功能、为新 兴中国餐饮业注入全新思维，或是对餐饮空 间之设计奠定更高创新标准的设计。CRIDA 评审团成员来自设计、艺术、美食等各领域， 皆是相当具有影响力与尊荣声望的人士。

回顾去年的系列活动，主办单位在八月二日于 CRIDA 赞助商之一的上海宝格丽酒店的意大利餐厅 Il Ristorante - Niko Romito 举办 VIP 大赛预热午宴。一众

On August 2, a pre-event VIP luncheon was hosted at Il Ristorante – Niko Romito, the signature Italian restaurant of Bulgari Hotel Shanghai, which is among the sponsors of CRIDA Invited were awards judges and forum speakers as well as influencers in the F&B and interior design industries, all of whom had the opportunity to discuss and share insights on ways in which design empowers the dining experience.

Empowering the luncheon’s dining experience were the restaurant’s glamorous décor and dramatic forty-seventh-floor setting, offering spectacular views of the city. They provided a fitting backdrop for Chef de Cuisine Mauro Aloisio’s menu of marinated amberjack, vegetarian lasagna, and honey cremeux, all accompanied by a selection of premium Italian wines.

奖项评审与论坛发言人，以及在餐饮与室内设计产业有 影响力的人士应邀出席。他们在席间针对装潢设计如何 提升餐饮体验这个主题，进行了讨论并提供个人见解。

餐厅华丽的装潢与壮丽迷人的四十七楼高空城市 景观，都突显出午宴的精致体验。如此高雅独特的用餐 环境，与驻店主厨 Mauro Aloisio 设计的菜单相辅相成， 其中包括腌红甘鱼、蔬菜千层面以及蜂蜜奶油慕斯，而 每道可口的料理都可搭配精选的优质意大利葡萄酒。

颁奖典礼和论坛则在八月二十五日于南京国际博

览中心举行。获得年度最佳餐饮空间设计大奖的是位于 上海静安区一栋风格独具的历史建筑内的 CHARCOHOL 巧客。

CHARCOHOL 巧客是一家以特色炭烤料理和手工创

中国餐饮空间设计奖（CRIDA）是由亚洲高端生活方式

On August 25, the awards ceremony and forums were held at the Nanjing International Expo Center. Winning for restaurant design excellence was Shanghai’s CHARCOHOL , located in a distinguished heritage building in the city’s Jing’an district.

A stylish bar focusing on charcoal-grilled specialties and handmade creative cocktails, CHARCOHOL features striking design by Studio 8, which was responsible for everything from brand visual identity and architectural renovation to interior layout, landscaping, and decoration.

Inspiration for each of Studio 8’s catering space projects comes from the chef’s personal culinary philosophy. In the case of CHARCOHOL, former Chef Mandela Zhu informed Studio 8 designers Shirley and Andrea that his cuisine is inspired by what he considers a miracle of taste: “Simple, high-quality ingredients can become the most wonderful food under the effects of the right time and temperature.”

The two designers proposed the name CHARCOHOL, blending “charcoal” and “alcohol,” and adopted the chef’s favored elements of time and temperature as the concept behind their witty design, which unfolds along an axis of time that is crossed by an axis of temperature.

From south to north, the space flows along the “time” axis, encompassing the main entrance and three dining halls. It conceptualizes the transformation of wood to charcoal and then

IL RISTORANTE NIKO ROMITO

Its setting high above the city sets the tone for the strikingly modern interior of Bulgari Hotel Shanghai’s signature Italian restaurant. § 上海宝格丽酒店的 意大利餐厅Il Ristorante – Niko Romito设计雅致， 与窗外的都市景观互相辉映。

意鸡尾酒为主题的时髦酒吧，其引人注目的室内设计是 由八荒设计负责，该工作室一手包办了品牌视觉识别系 统、建筑改造、内部格局、景观设计以及软装等项目。

八荒设计的每个餐饮空间设计灵感都来自厨师的 个人烹饪理念。在 CHARCOHOL 巧客的案例中，与八荒 设计的设计师 Shirley 和 Andrea 沟通时，前主厨朱文渊 （料理小熊）曾表示他的美食灵感来自心中的风味奇迹： 「简单优质的食材在对的时间和温度的作用下，才能成 就最精彩的美食。」

两位设计师提出 CHARCOHOL 巧客这个名字，将 「碳」和「酒精」两相结合，并采用主厨喜欢的时间和 温度元素作为其巧妙设计背后的概念。餐厅内部的设计 是由时间与温度这两条轴线交织而成。

由南到北，空间沿着「时间轴」流动开展，其中包 括主要出入口以及三个用餐空间。设计手法运用木材从 木炭燃烧成灰烬的转化概念，宾客能在入口的门廊处留 意到这项设计概念：悬挂在天花板上的是半截木桩，从

COURTSEY OF CRIDA AND BVLGARI

Insights are shared at CRIDA 2022’s pre-event luncheon. 一众嘉宾在预热午宴上就设计相关的话题展开讨论。

to ash, which is symbolized as guests are welcomed at the entrance portico by a half-burnt wooden column that hangs from the ceiling and ends in a black lava stone on the floor. By means of custom installations, furniture, and lighting effects, each dining hall has been given its own ambience related to either wood, charcoal, or ash.

This year’s CRIDA Award for Excellence in Hotel Restaurants was presented to Bulgari Hotel Shanghai. “For us,” comments General Manager Matthias Terrettaz, “CRIDA definitely is a great platform to make our restaurants’ interior design publicly known and appreciated.”

The hotel is home to six signature gourmet dining venues, including two with Michelin stars. “When you step into one-Michelin-star Il Ristorante – Niko Romito,” notes Terrettaz, “you are immediately transported into a lifestyle of luxurious residential comforts and sophisticated Italian flair. Tabletops are finished with Tuscan Calacatta marble, and chairs and columns are wrapped in dark brown leather to contrast with the lighter tones of the teak floors and walls.

“Two Michelin-star Bao Li Xuan, our finedining Chinese restaurant, blends Bulgari’s Italian glamour with distinctive Chinese culture. Beneath restored coffered ceilings, the elegant design pays homage to historic Shanghai with turquoise raw silk wallpaper, black lacquer panels, Art Deco patterned carpets, Italian chairs by Maxalto, and artistic lighting by Flos.”

天花开始，由木逐渐燃烧至木炭，直至地面火山岩制成的黑色 「碳」底座。透过订制的装置、家具以及灯光效果的加成，三 个用餐空间都洋溢着与木材、木炭或灰烬相关的特有氛围。 今年的最佳酒店餐厅设计奖则由上海宝格丽酒店夺得。总 经理 Matthias Terrettaz 表示：「对我们而言，CRIDA 是一个绝 佳的平台，能让更多人注意到并欣赏我们餐厅的室内设计。」

上海宝格丽酒店具备六大标志性美食据点，其中包括两家 米其林星级餐厅。Matthias 指出：「当你踏进米其林一星的 Il Ristorante - Niko Romito，会立刻被一种奢华的舒适感以及精 致意大利生活风格所包围。餐厅台面以托斯卡尼的卡拉卡大理 石装饰，椅子和柱子用深棕色皮革包裹，与柚木地板和墙壁的 浅色调形成对比。」

「米其林二星的宝丽轩是酒店的高级中餐厅，完美结合宝 格丽的意大利魅力与独一无二的中国文化。在经过修复的镶板 天花板下可见各种优雅设计，我们以绿松石色的真丝壁纸、黑 漆面板、装饰艺术风格图案地毯、Maxalto 的意大利设计椅和

Flos 的艺术灯具，向历史悠久的上海风华致敬。」

CRIDA 2023’s forums and awards ceremony will take place March 28 to 31 at Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC). § 2023年CRIDA论坛及颁奖典

礼将于3月28至31日在上海新国际博览中心举行。

→ The freshest of seafood is flown in from Japan. 从日本空运而来的顶

Chef Kenichi Fujimoto 主厨藤本健一

级海鲜食材。

THE SUSHI COUNTER at Sushi Fujimoto, made from three-hundred-year-old wood from Nara Prefecture, is left unvarnished and requires sanding every three weeks to retain a perfect surface. It’s just one example of Chef Kenichi Fujimoto’s philosophy of simplicity and painstaking care at his stylish new Edomae sushi bar tucked away in Central.

The chef also insists on premium-quality ingredients flown in from Japan and on preparing his rice in an oldfashioned rice cooker in front of guests so that they can savor the appealing aromas as he mixes in the sushi vinegar. They watch each step in Fujimoto’s expert crafting and plating of every dish as he presides over a host of details designed to elevate the dining experience.

BY LUCY JENKINS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

His specialty is tuna in a variety of cuts, from the lean akami found on the upper side of the fish to medium-fatty chutoro and the richest otoro from the belly. Also featured are needlefish, sea urchin, monkfish liver, abalone, and sea perch, all presented in artful form.

Chef Fujimoto’s career took off at age twenty-seven when he trained with sushi master Shinji Kanesaka at restaurant Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo’s exclusive Ginza district and was then appointed sous chef at Michelin-starred Shinji by Kanesaka in Macau. With a dream of one day opening his own restaurant, Fujimoto came to Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Sushi Saito before opening Sushi Fujimoto in February of 2022.

He now oversees a staff of nine as his gracious wife welcomes guests at the entrance and shows them to the dining area or one of the private rooms. Along the way, her beautiful ikebana flower arrangements, with characteristic elegance, adorn the corridors and nooks of Sushi Fujimoto.

Sushi Fujimoto 的寿司台温润自然，由来自奈良县、 有三百年历史的木材制成，并未上漆，需要每三 周打磨一次以保持表面完美。主厨藤本健一在中 环开设的时髦新江户前寿司店，奉行简约以及用 心制作的理念，这块木制寿司台就是其中一例。 主厨藤本先生坚持使用日本空运 而来的优质食材，米饭则是使用老式 电饭煲烹煮，并在宾客面前制作寿司 饭，让宾客在寿司醋与米饭混合时感 受到扑面而来的香气。宾客可以欣赏 到藤本先生精心制作每道菜及细心摆 盘的每个步骤，从各种料理细节中提 升用餐体验。

他最拿手的料理是展现各种部位切割的吞拿 鱼，包括鱼身上部的赤身，到脂肪含量适中的中腹， 再到脂肪含量最饱满的大腹。此外，针鱼、海胆、 安康鱼肝、鲍鱼和海鲈鱼等各种食材，皆以充满 艺术美感的方式摆盘上桌。

藤本先生的职业生涯在二十七岁时起步，当 时他在东京银座的「鮨金坂」跟随寿司大师金坂 真次受训，然后被任命为澳门米其林星级餐厅「金 坂极上寿司」的副厨。怀抱着有朝一日开设自己 的餐厅的梦想，藤本先生于香港四季酒店的米其 林星级餐厅「鮨斋藤」继续磨练，并在 2022 年 2 月开设 Sushi Fujimoto。 餐厅里目前总共有九名员工，他的妻子亲切 热情地在入口处迎接宾客，带领宾客移步至用餐区 或包厢。餐厅中处处可见她的花艺作品，优雅的风 韵妆点了 Sushi Fujimoto 的走道与每个角落。

At elegantly minimalist Sushi Fujimoto, attention to detail is the watchword.

simple is best 简约至上

Fresh Yirgacheffe coffee beans from southern Ethiopia, grown between seventeen hundred and twenty-two hundred meters above sea level, have natural floral and roasted-coconut aromas. 耶加雪菲咖啡豆产自衣索比亚南方海拔一千七百米至二千二百米 的高原上，新鲜的咖啡豆有着自然的花香和烤椰子香气。

→ An important Ethiopian cultural custom is a coffee ceremony in which fresh coffee beans are roasted over an open fire and the brewed coffee is served, usually by the chief woman of the household, to honored guests.

享用咖啡是衣索比亚的一项重要传统文化习俗，多数由当地家庭的 女主人用明火烤新鲜的咖啡豆，再冲泡咖啡给客人享用。

an ethiopian legend

Coffee originating in ancient times in the Horn of Africa, esteemed by many as the world’s best, has found a second home in Hong Kong.

IN 1824, Thomas Jefferson is said to have pronounced coffee “the favorite drink of the civilized world,” and today, it is certainly the indispensable way to start the day for growing millions around the globe.

The favored cup can trace its heritage back to the primeval coffee forests spanning the Ethiopian plateau. Legend goes that a goatherd named Kaldi accidentally discovered the magic bean’s energizing properties when his flock ate the berries of a certain tree and became so lively they wouldn’t sleep.

Word spread across the village and to the local monastery. People soon began making a beverage from the berries, relishing coffee’s flavor as well as its restorative powers. The prized beans made their way to the Arabian Peninsula, the hub for African trade, and the wider world soon woke up to the glories of coffee.

Charlene Hua

→

←

A jebena is a ceramic pot used for serving coffee, an important household ritual. A filter made from horsehair or other natural materials is placed in the jebena’s spout to prevent grounds from escaping.

在享用咖啡的仪式中，当地 人会用名为jebena的陶壼冲 煮咖啡。壼咀会有一个用 马毛或其他天然物料所制 的滤器，以过滤咖啡渣。

Across Ethiopia, the brewing of coffee is closely linked to womanhood. When the jebena is used, the youngest woman in a family initiates the process for the ritual known in Amharic as the buna, a community gathering at which participants drink three cups of coffee.

在衣索比亚，冲煮咖啡可说 是妇女们的基本技能。家庭 中年纪最小的女性会使用 jebena陶壼来冲煮咖啡，进 行buna（阿姆哈拉语中意 指咖啡仪式）聚会，每位 参加者会享用三杯咖啡。

美国开国元勋之一的 Thomas Jefferson 曾在 1824 年说道：「咖啡是文明世界里最受欢迎的饮 品。」时至今日，咖啡对多数人来说，依旧是开 启一天不可或缺的良伴。

咖啡最早起源自非洲衣索比亚高原。相传， 一位名为 Kaldi 的牧羊人发现羊群在

BY LUCY JENKINS •

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

The famed Ethiopian strain, originating in the southern region of Yirgacheffe, has a distinctly fruity flavor profile that results from a combination of the high altitude where it grows and its roasting level. Charlene Hua, who champions the authentic Ethiopian coffee ceremony in Hong Kong, is founder of Africa Coffee and Tea (ACT), an Africanthemed café tucked away in Wong Chuk Hang. It is the city’s first café

吃了咖啡树的果实后，变得格外兴奋， 更睡不着觉，也让牧羊人意外发现了

咖啡豆的提神作用。 随着这意外发现在当地村庄和 修道院传播开来，人们开始用咖啡豆 制作饮品，享受其独特风味和提神功 效。后来，咖啡豆传至非洲贸易中心 – – 阿拉伯 半岛，让世界的其他角落也开始认识咖啡。 高海拔地区的生长环境和烘豆手法，让产自 衣索比亚南方的「耶加雪菲」咖啡豆带有特殊的 果香调性。为了发扬衣索比亚咖啡仪式的魅力， Charlene Hua 秉持她对非洲国家的热爱，于香 港黄竹坑创立富有非洲文化特色的 Africa Coffee and Tea。这是香港首间专门选用非洲咖啡豆的

“People are curious about Africa and don’t necessarily realize that its coffee-growing countries and regions produce distinctive styles of coffee. 虽然很多人对非洲充满好奇， 却鲜少有人了解非洲各地 的咖啡品种和特色。”

promoting specialty coffee from such countries as Ethiopia, Uganda, Cameroon, Rwanda, Malawi, and Kenya.

Inspired by her love of travel across the African continent, ACT embodies her desire to celebrate the rich diversity of its cultures and to foster exchange. Café staff come from Ethiopia, Tanzania, Rwanda, Nigeria, Uganda, and Kenya.

“The coffee movement in Hong Kong,” says Hua, “only really started six or seven years ago. People are curious about Africa and don’t necessarily realize that its coffee-growing countries and regions produce distinctive styles of coffee. We bring the best varieties to Hong Kong, sourcing directly from the growers themselves rather than going through third parties.” Hua imports the beans and then works with a number of roasters around the city to get more diverse roasting levels, giving customers the chance to try a wider variety of coffees above and beyond the more mass-market offerings.

“We have strong values regarding inequality and sustainability,” says Hua. “We want to empower our African partners and especially support women in coffee-growing regions. We provide opportunities for them to grow their business and together share the beauty and cultures of Africa’s many different countries.”

咖啡厅，咖啡豆皆是来自衣索比亚、乌干达、喀麦 隆、卢旺达、马拉维、肯亚等国家。

Charlene 曾前往非洲大陆旅行，深受当地文

化吸引，也成为了她通过 ACT 把非洲文化带进香港、

促进交流的契机。咖啡厅的员工也是来自非洲各地， 包括衣索比亚、坦桑尼亚、卢旺达、尼日利亚、乌 干达和肯亚。

Charlene 说：「香港也是近六、七年，才开始 品味咖啡的热潮。虽然很多人对非洲充满好奇，却 鲜少有人了解非洲各地的咖啡品种和特色。因此， 我们严选非洲各地的上好咖啡品种，且不经过其他 第三方管道，直接和当地农民购买原豆，把精心挑 选的咖啡豆带到黄竹坑。」此外，Charlene 也和香 港当地咖啡业者合作，研究各式烘豆手法，只为了 让消费者喝到有别于一般市面可见的咖啡。 品牌经营方面， Charlene 介绍：「我们相当 重视公平贸易和永续发展。透过与非洲咖啡农合 作，支持当地咖啡产业发展、关注非洲妇女工作 议题，也让非洲各国各地的农民有机会发扬家乡 文化之美。」

创意经典

creatively classic

BY DOROTHY SO

Above & Beyond delivers traditional Cantonese specialties meticulously crafted from a contemporary point of view.

SINCE OPENING ITS DOORS IN 2011, Above & Beyond has enjoyed an enviable position as one of Hong Kong’s foremost fine-dining Chinese restaurants. Commanding gorgeous views of Victoria Harbour from its heights on the twenty-eighth floor of Hotel ICON, it brings together a space that is at once elegantly sleek and invitingly down-to-earth with food that stays true to Cantonese tradition while embracing constant evolution.

“We’ve been open for many years, and we’ve always been innovating and finding inspiration for new dishes,” says Executive Chef Chi Ki Wong. This creative spirit has been key to the restaurant’s longevity in a city known for its intense competition and played an especially important role amid the many changes and challenges of recent years. As travel restrictions came into effect and tourist numbers dwindled, Wong’s team shifted its focus to generating fresh ideas with appeal for local guests as well as designing personalized thematic menus for private functions geared toward the restaurant’s growing list of VIP clients.

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

Pumpkin, Kanto sea cucumbers and black truffles 南瓜、关东辽参与黑松露

PREVIOUS PAGE BRAISED KANTO SEA CUCUMBER WITH TRUFFLE IN SUPERIOR CHICKEN BROTH 金汤松露酿关东辽参

Japan’s Kanto region is known for sea cucumbers with a wonderfully firm and gelatinous texture. To highlight this prized delicacy, Wong eschews the thick sauces that traditionally accompany it in Cantonese cuisine and opts for something more vibrant and inventive. After lightly stewing the sea cucumber in superior stock for flavor, the chef adds ginger and scallions to remove any fishiness. It’s then stuffed with crabmeat and steamed before being plated over a refreshing pumpkin sauce. The surprise finishing touch comes by way of black truffles, which appear both as a sauce and also as a topping of freshly shaved slices.

日本关东多产「辽参」，其肉质紧实且富含胶质，颇负盛名。为了突显辽参的特色， 黄师傅翻转传统海参的料理手法，改以明亮创新的酱汁取代广东菜常用的浓厚酱汁。 他先以上汤炖煮辽参至软糯入味，再以葱、姜去腥；炖煮过的辽参酿入蟹肉、蒸煮， 最后佐以南瓜金汤盛盘上桌。菜肴以黑松露提味，除了增添南瓜金汤的风味，也以松 露刨片点缀，皆有画龙点睛的效果。

“We’ve been open for many years, and we’ve always been innovating and finding inspiration for new dishes.

我们已开业多年，一路上不断创新变革，寻找灵感创作新菜式。”

Executive Chef Chi Ki Wong

Above & Beyond’s deftness in adapting swiftly and effectively can be attributed largely to Wong’s vast experience. With a culinary career that spans more than twenty years, he draws on an expert understanding of gastronomic traditions, cooking techniques, and the unique characteristics of an array of ingredients to create enhanced versions of time-honored classics as well as all-new dishes that reveal the limitless potential of Chinese cuisine.

Complementing this technical knowhow is an openness to experimentation and the seeking out of new ideas from the world around him – including from his young daughter. “One time I saw the decorations she wore in her hair,” he says, “and that made me think of using fresh flowers as an ingredient for one of our dishes.”

Even offerings that seem straightforward at first glance belie the chef’s subtle twists and level of craftsmanship that put them in a league of their own. Barbecued

自 2011 年开业以来，天外天中餐厅已位处令人欣羡的至高 地位，成为香港首屈一指的高级中菜厅。来到位于唯港荟 二十八楼的天外天，宾客可从高处俯瞰摄人的维多利亚港美 景。天外天的用餐空间优雅、时尚、温馨，提供忠于传统的 粤菜，同时不断向前迈进蜕变。

行政总厨黄子其表示：「我们已开业多年，一路上不断 创新变革，寻找灵感创作新菜式。」天外天之所以能在这个 竞争激烈的城市历久不衰，关键就在于这种创新精神。这番 精神也在近年来的各大变化与挑战中，发挥重要的作用。面 对旅游限制以及游客数量减少的现况，黄师傅与团队将重点 转为替当地宾客提供新鲜尊尚的料理，并为日渐增加的 VIP 贵宾所举办的私人活动，设计个性化的主题菜单。 黄师傅的料理经验丰富，让天外天得以迅速、有效率地 适应各种挑战和环境变迁。黄师傅的烹饪生涯已超过二十年， 并凭借着对美食传统、烹饪技术，以及食材独特性的专业理 解，为历史悠久的经典菜肴进行改造，推陈出新，体现中国 美食的无限潜能。

Executive Chef Chi Ki Wong 行政总厨黄子其

ABOVE & BEYOND PEKING DUCK 天外天片皮鸭

The restaurant’s signature Peking duck is available on the à la carte menu and also headlines its own set dinner. The selected rice-fed duck is leaner than the pekin breed traditionally used for this dish. The secret to a light and crispy result is to first roast the bird and then lightly fry it right before serving to render the fat. Another appealing feature of Above & Beyond’s take on Peking duck is that every piece is carved with skin and meat together. Served with flour crêpes, cucumbers, slivered leeks, and homemade duck sauce, it makes for a substantial feast –and without the usual fattiness and guilt that accompany this beloved dish.

片皮鸭是天外天的招牌菜，除了单点，还特设 以片皮鸭为主角的晚餐套餐。有别于传统烤 鸭使用的北京鸭，天外天选用以稻米喂饲的 鸭只，脂肪含量较低。烤鸭上菜前会稍微煎过， 以逼出油分，也使表皮更香脆。此外，片皮鸭 皮肉不分离，每一口都吃得到皮酥肉嫩，为 天外天的一大特色。烤鸭搭配薄饼、黄瓜丝、 京葱、自制甜面酱等配料，令人大快朵颐。

meats, for example, which are a mainstay at many Cantonese restaurants, are elevated here with carefully balanced homemade marinades and painstaking control over cooking times and temperatures.

To ensure consistently high quality, Wong and his team are careful to source the best seasonal ingredients for every dish, never hesitating to make use of non-Chinese ingredients to create distinctly Cantonese flavors. The result is an intriguing menu that features everything from French black truffles and Italian balsamic vinegar to Japanese wasabi and Australian lamb, all employed with the same goal of creating Cantonese cuisine that takes diners to new heights.

乐于尝试及敢于实验的精神，与专业娴熟的技术诀窍相辅相成。 此外，黄师傅也善于从周遭环境及日常生活中汲取新的灵感，他的 小女儿就是他的其中一个灵感来源。他笑说：「有一次我看到女儿头 上的发饰，就想到可以用鲜花入馔。」

即使是那些看起来很直截了当的料理，也蕴含总厨的细致诠释 与精湛厨艺，让这些菜别具一格，充分展现天外天的特色风味。比 方说，烧味是许多粤菜餐厅的招牌菜式。天外天的烧味有了黄师傅 精心调制的自制腌料和针对烹调时间与温度的细心掌控，尝起来就 更不同凡响。

为了确保料理的优异品质，黄师傅和团队仔细替每道菜寻找最 理想的当季食材，也经常使用国外食材来创造独一无二的广东风味。 他们成功打造出一份引人入胜、耐人寻味的菜单，里面可以找到法 国黑松露、意大利黑醋，到日本芥末和澳洲羊肉等。黄师傅选用这 些食材创作出的各式粤菜，都是为了让宾客体验到更别出心裁的美 食飨宴。

SMOKED PIGEON WITH OOLONG TEA 冻顶乌龙茶熏鸽

With its low fat content, pigeon is often considered both a tasty and healthy choice for carnivores. King pigeon, selected for its ample meat, is first braised in a soya sauce marinade flavored with a variety of herbs and spices. Then it is smoked in a mixture of rice, sugar, and oolong tea, which comes from Taiwan’s famed Dong Ding Mountain in Nantou County and is chosen for its rich aroma and deep flavor. “The trick to this dish,” says Wong, “is that you can’t overcook the meat or it will be very tough. The bird must also be thoroughly dried to ensure that the skin will be crisp.”

鸽肉脂肪含量低，风味十足又零负担，是肉食爱好者的最佳选 择。黄师傅选用肉质丰美的顶级王鸽肉，先以酱油、辛香料卤制， 再和米、糖、乌龙茶叶一起烟熏。茶叶选用台湾南投冻顶乌龙茶， 茶香浓郁芬芳。黄师傅说：「茶熏鸽的诀窍在于不能煮太久，不 然鸽肉会变得干柴。此外，还要留意烟熏过程中鸽肉皮的湿润度， 以确保外皮酥脆的口感。」

登 五 谷 丰

w i t h t h e a i n g r

T a s t in g K i tc h e n p r e s en t s a s e ri e s of n e w di s h e s c el eb r ati n g

t h e o r i g ins a n d d iv e r sit y o f t h e w o r ld’ s be s t r i c e v a r ie ti e s

BY LUCY JENKINS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

From Asia to Africa, from the Americas to Europe, rice is the cornerstone of many and varied cuisines, a staple savored by more than a billion people every day. It co-stars in fiery Sichuan specialties, milder Singaporean chicken rice, and aromatic Indian curries, and it features – steamed, boiled, or stir-fried – in countless other dishes.

横跨亚欧大陆，再综观非洲及美洲土地， 米都是各个菜系的基石，是每天有超过 十亿人在享用的主食。米饭是火热奔放的 川菜、相对温和的海南鸡饭，和印度 咖喱等料理的共同主角，也在其他蒸煮炒 的菜式中扮演不可或缺的角色。

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES AND RED CARGO RICE

耶路撒冷雅枝竹与红米

Peeled Jerusalem artichokes, both whole and puréed, are oven-roasted with cream and Maldon sea salt. This rich and hearty vegetarian dish pairs perfectly with Red Cargo rice. “The technique,” says Ocean Table Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa, “involves seasoning the puréed artichokes with aged sherry vinegar and caramelizing them while retaining their essential, full earthy taste.”

Red Cargo rice is a long-grain variety from Thailand and, like brown rice, has only its outer husk removed, revealing its reddish-brown color and preserving more nutrients than with white rice. Its taste profile is generally sweeter and nuttier than that of white rice, and its texture is chewier.

将耶路撒冷雅枝竹去皮，与磨成泥状的 雅枝竹、奶油和马尔顿海盐一起放入烤 箱烘烤。这道丰盛的素食菜肴与红米完 美结合。Ocean Table 行政总厨 Jaakko Sorsa 指出：「这道菜运用的烹饪技巧， 是用陈年雪利酒醋来为雅枝竹泥调味， 再使其焦糖化，同时保留最原始、饱满 的泥土气息。」

红米是泰国的长米品种，和糙米

一样只去掉外皮、呈现红褐色的色泽，

比白米具有更多营养成分。口感一般来 说比白米更甜、具坚果口感，而且质地 更有嚼劲。

Over thousands of years, rice has formed an essential part of nations’ cultures, gastronomy, and generational bonding over the dinner table. Wherever rice is grown, festivals and rituals surround its cultivation. In parts of Asia, “rice spirits” are respected deities who are entreated with prayers to ensure a good season’s crop for the sustenance of whole towns and villages.

The rice farmers of Cambodia still practice forms of folk religion and believe in its power to influence the harvest. The ancestral female guardian spirit Yiey Tep is thought to control the place she inhabits and to watch over its people. Some rural villagers, believing that she dwells in the rice fields, show Yiey Tep their respect by praying and making offerings in the corners of the fields of foods like sweetened rice porridge.

历经数千年，米已经成为各国文化、美 食和各个家庭在餐桌上相聚的重要关键。

不管在哪里，只要是有种植水稻的地方， 就有与稻米相关的节日与仪式。在亚洲 部分地区，「稻米之灵」是受人尊敬的神 灵，民众会藉由向衪们祈祷来确保下一 季能够丰收，以维持整座城镇和村庄的 生计。

柬埔寨的水稻种植者仍保有各式民 间宗教传统的仪式与信仰，并且认为这 会影响稻米的收成。民众相信古老的女 性守护神 Yiey Tep 会掌控她居住的区域， 并守护当地人民。农村村民认为 Yiey Tep 住在稻田里，会藉由祈祷以及在田地角落 供奉甜米粥等食物，来表达对衪的敬重。

白米在地方方言中带有根深蒂固的象征 意涵，甚至在今天，我们仍能从日常的 问候语和祝福语看出米对生活的影响。

比方说，在孟加拉、中国和泰国， 较常见的问候语是「你吃饭了吗？」而 不是「你好吗？」在老挝和泰国，吃米 饭和吃东西用的是同一个说法。

Rice’s symbolism in regional languages is so entrenched that, even today, greetings and well-wishing evoke the power that rice has over the people.

In Bangladesh, China, and Thailand, for example, a common greeting is “Have you eaten your rice today?” rather than “How are you?” In Laos and Thailand, the phrase for eating rice and eating food is the same.

WILD-CAUGHT OCTOPUS AND BLACK RICE 野生章鱼与黑米

Fremantle octopus from Western Australia finds a natural partner in Chinese black rice, also known as forbidden rice or emperor’s rice. Prepared with tomato, bell pepper, samphire, wild trout roe, and roasted pumpkin, the mollusk retains a slight chewiness, matching the mouthfeel of the rice and harmonizing with the mild spiciness of the peppers. Chinese black rice has an alluring deep purple hue that comes from the antioxidant anthocyanin, also found in blueberries and eggplant. This medium-grain rice is firm yet tender when cooked, and its texture and nutty flavor make it an excellent choice to mate with the octopus.

来自澳洲西部的费里曼图章鱼与称为「禁米」 或「贡米」的中国黑米，简直是天生一对。 章鱼与番茄、甜椒、海芦笋、野生鳟鱼子和 烤南瓜一起烹制，保留了章鱼的轻微咀嚼感， 与黑米的口感相得益彰，更有甜椒的温和辛 香气味调和。中国黑米呈现的迷人深紫色调 自于抗氧化剂花青素，这种天然物质也存在 于蓝莓和茄子当中。粒径中等的黑米在煮熟 后口感结实但柔软，其质地与坚果香气和章 鱼成为完美配搭。

BRITTANY BLUE LOBSTER AND WILD RICE 布列塔尼兰龙虾与野米

Tender Brittany blue lobster is pan-fried with butter, garlic, and thyme and served with sun-ripened pumpkin from Piemonte in this vibrantly colorful dish. To wild rice sourced from the US , Sorsa adds caramelized shallot onion purée and chopped black garlic and tops it with almonds that have been smoked, roasted, and chopped. Wild rice, with its typically chewy texture and savory vegetal flavor, belongs to an entirely different genus than what is commonly known as rice and is the seed of a grass native to the northern Great Lakes region of the US

鲜嫩的布列塔尼兰龙虾以黄油、大 蒜和百里香一起入锅煎香，再佐以

来自皮埃蒙特的南瓜干，呈现出这 道色彩斑斓的菜肴。 Jaakko 在来

自美国的野米中加入焦糖红葱泥 和切碎的黑蒜，并放上经过烟熏、 烤制的杏仁碎片。野米具有典型 的耐嚼口感和咸香的植物风味，与

一般常见的米属于完全不同的属， 是种原产于美国北部大湖区的草 的种子。

IMPERIAL OSCIETRA NO. 6 CAVIAR AND SUSHI RICE

IMPERIAL OSCIETRA NO.6

鱼子酱与寿司米

This regal-looking dish is garnished with edible gold and micro watercress. Imperial oscietra no. 6 caviar comes from the hybrid of Siberian sturgeon and Russian sturgeon, which weighs up to fifty kilograms. Its amber-colored caviar reaches optimal flavor only after the fish is at least nine years old. Chef Sorsa prepares traditional Japanese sushi rice and crowns it with oscietra in a one-to-one ratio so that its hazelnut-like flavor doesn’t overwhelm the slight sweetness of the rice.

这道高级的菜式，选用了可食 用金箔以及微型水芹作为装饰。

Imperial oscietra No.6 鱼子酱产自西 伯利亚鲟鱼和俄罗斯鲟鱼的杂交鱼种， 其重量可高达五十公斤。鱼龄要至少九 年，琥珀色的鱼子酱才能呈现出最佳风味。

Jaakko 以一比一的比例在传统的日本寿司 米上摆放鱼子酱，让鱼子酱的榛果风味恰 到好处地衬托出米饭的幽微甜味。

RED CARGO RICE 红米

WILD RICE 野米

VIALONE NANO RICE 维亚罗内米

SUSHI RICE 寿司米

BLACK RICE 黑米

医药 m e d i c i n e

Across Asia, rice has long been used in traditional medicine. In the Philippines, rice bran is extracted to prevent and cure beriberi, a condition caused by thiamine deficiency. In Malaysia, boiled rice greens are used to treat inflammation of the eyes. In Cambodia, the husks of mature rice plants are considered effective in treating dysentery. And in China, known the world over for its traditional herbal medicine practices, dried sprouted rice grains are used externally to aid digestion and strengthen the spleen.

旅 游 t r a v e l

水稻有四万多个已知的品种，在中国、 日本与印尼等地，水稻都种植在大片 茂盛的稻田中。翠绿的田地经过精心 照料，吸引了数以百万计的游客。凝 视着一望无际的自然美景时，宁静的 感觉总是让人愉悦放松。

不论是菲律宾的简单旅店，还是 峇里岛的五星级度假村，位于稻田周 边的住宿选择都深受游客欢迎。背包

客和生态旅人都在寻找与传统景点截 然不同、别具一格的旅游景点。

峇里岛乌布区的德格拉朗梯田是 其中一个闻名于世的水稻田，位于青 翠的山谷之中，有着令人赞叹的景致，

更被列为联合国教科文组织世界遗 产。当地的德格拉朗梯田以及 Pejeng 村和 Campuhan 村的稻田，都是令人 惊艳的壮观梯田景致。

在整个亚洲，米长期以来都被应用在传 统医学当中。在菲律宾，米糠会被提取

出来用于预防和治疗因缺乏硫胺所引致 的脚气病。在马来西亚，煮熟的稻叶会

被用来治疗眼睛的炎症。在柬埔寨，民

众认为成熟稻米的外壳能有效治疗痢疾。

而在以传统中药疗法闻名的中国，人们

相信谷芽（发芽的干米粒）有帮助消化、 强健脾胃的药效。

With more than forty thousand known varieties, rice is grown over vast acres of lush paddies in countries like China, Japan, and Indonesia. Each year, the sight of such natural, meticulously manicured beauty attracts millions of travelers, awed by the sense of tranquility that descends as they gaze across endless emerald fields.

From simple guesthouses in the Philippines to five-star resorts in Bali, accommodations located near rice paddies have become hugely popular with travelers, from backpackers to eco-tourists, who are looking to escape well-trodden paths to more conventional destinations.

Among the world’s most renowned rice-growing areas is Tegallalang Rice Fields in Bali‘s Ubud District. Listed as an UNESCO world heritage site, it lies in a verdant valley and offers amazingly scenic lookouts. Tegallalang Rice Fields and those in the villages of Pejeng and Campuhan rank at the top of the region’s profusion of visually stunning terraced landscapes.

Rice also finds its place in a dessert from Chef Sorsa, who creates a delicious rice pudding with Bavarian cream and maraschino cherries. Riz à l’impératrice, a delight of French haute cuisine, is set in a charlotte mold and decorated with candied fruit. The rice variety, Vialone Nano, has been given protected status by the EU under the name Riso Nano Vialone Veronese IGP, which can be grown only within Italy’s province of Verona. Generally used for risotto, it is ideal for this dish, where it absorbs the sweet flavors of the cream and cherries and retains its shape, making a delicate but structured finale to any elegant menu.

Jaakko 用巴伐利亚奶油和马拉斯奇诺樱桃制作美味的米布丁，让米 饭在甜点中也不缺席。Riz à l’impératrice 是法式高级烹饪中的一道 亮眼甜品，这个米布丁会被放在夏洛特模具中，并以糖渍水果点缀。 维亚罗内米这个品种的米受到欧盟保护，名为 Riso Nano Vialone Veronese IGP，只能在意大利的维罗纳省份种植。这种米通常会用于 意大利炖饭，是这道菜的理想选择。在这道甜点中，维亚罗内米不仅吸 收了奶油与樱桃的甜香，还能维持它的完美形状。在任何一份优雅的菜 单中，这都是一道精致、结构鲜明的完美压轴甜点。

‘RIZ À L’IMPÉRATRICE’ AND VIALONE NANO RICE RIZ À L’IMPÉRATRICE 与维亚罗内米

PALATABLE PROGRESS

BY JANE RAM

中国的精致餐饮故事始于端简，一路跃升至 国际水准，进程好比菜单上一道道美馔。

From modest beginnings to international stature, the story of fine dining in China unfolds like the courses on a menu.

SHANGHAI-BASED WRITER and amateur historian Bill Savadove, in his article “From Soup to Nuts: Eating in Old Shanghai” (Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society China, Vol. 77, No. 1, August 2017), shared some of his research into the fascinating genesis of the city’s fine-dining culture:

“On 7 July 1934, diners at the Canidrome Ballroom in the heart of Shanghai’s French concession sat down to a sumptuous 17-course banquet from soup (tomato bouillon) to nuts (salted almonds). Serenaded by the American jazz orchestra Buck Clayton and His Harlem Gentlemen, patrons started with olives, celery, and bread rolls before moving on to heartier fare.

“The meal showcased the international nature of the cuisine in Shanghai and the vibrancy of the dining scene in the 1930s, a phenomenon now repeating itself in the city today. Despite the Sino-Japanese War and poverty in China at the time, the feast was bountiful. . .

“The Canidrome menu included everything from American lettuce with Thousand Island salad dressing and California grapefruit to French-style canapes and petits fours. Meat choices were grilled chicken with bacon, and steak. . .

“The menu also featured poached ‘Samli’ fish, a type of shad caught locally. The waters near Shanghai lacked cod and salmon, so indigenous fish often featured on menus. ‘The steamed (Samli) fish melts in the mouth’ gushed the book Common Food Fishes of Shanghai

“The Canidrome menu listed vegetable dishes like corn on the cob, carrots and French-fried potatoes. By the early 1930s, Chinese farmers increasingly grew corn and

grains like wheat, instead of rice, as land in the Shanghai region was drained. British diplomat and keen amateur botanist Frederick Bourne praised the peas, beans, leeks, cauliflower, spinach, lettuce, and artichokes grown in Shanghai soil . . .

“Among fruits, strawberries and peaches grew well in Shanghai – as they still do today. But attempts to cultivate apples had met with ‘uniform failure,’ Bourne said. Regardless, the Canidrome menu offered apple pie, presumably with fruit from elsewhere [perhaps from Qingdao, the German enclave, famous for its fruit, including apples, to this day].”

“The foreign businessman in Shanghai ‘dines at home, club, or foreign hotel, as nearly in the homeland style as carefully instructed Chinese cooks and “boys” can accomplish,’ journalist Harry Franck wrote in Roving through Southern China. A 1908 phrasebook has the words in Shanghai dialect to order cooks to buy chicken, pheasant, duck, goose, turkey and snipe, as well as roast beef, steak, and shoulder, leg, or chop of mutton.

居 于上海的作家兼业余历史学家 Bill Savadove 在他撰写的《老上海飨宴》（2017 年 8 月皇家亚洲学会中国支会学报第 77 卷 第 1 期）中，分享了他对上海精致餐饮文化 起源的考究，文中描述的景象相当引人入胜：

1934 年 7 月 7 日，一群饕客在上海法国 租借区中心的逸园舞厅享用 17 道菜式的奢华 盛宴，从番茄清汤，到小点薄盐杏仁，包罗 万有。这场飨宴更有美国乐手 Buck Clayton 和哈林绅士组成的爵士大乐团现场演奏。与 会饕客首先品尝橄榄、西洋芹和圆面包，再 开始享用丰盛的菜肴。

尽管当时抗日战争烽火连天，中国内 部也不甚富裕，这席飨宴仍无比丰富，反映 1930 年代的上海不仅有多样的国际化菜式， 饮食文化也相当活跃，正如今日的上海一般。

這次盛宴端出的菜式一应俱全，有佐以 千岛沙拉酱和加州葡萄柚的美国莴苣，也不 乏法式开胃小品及小茶点，肉类则有烤鸡佐 培根、牛排等等。

其中一道菜肴以水波法煨煮一种于当地 捕捞、名为「三鯠」的鲱鱼，上海附近的水 域并无鳕鱼和鲑鱼，因此菜单上常会出现当 地鱼种。《上海食用鱼指南》形容「清蒸三鯠 入口即化」。

宴席上的蔬菜佳肴则有整穗的玉米、红 萝卜和酥炸马铃薯条。由于上海地区的农地 逐渐枯竭，当地的农夫在 1930 年代早期便不 再种稻，改以种植玉米和小麦等谷物。热衷 于植物学的英国外交官 Frederick Bourne 就 对上海土地培育出的各式豆类、韭葱、白花 椰菜、菠菜、莴苣和雅枝竹赞誉有加。

至于水果方面，草莓和桃子在今昔的上 海都结实累累，但根据 Frederick 所述，栽植 苹果的尝试从未成功，然而逸园盛宴仍供应 苹果派，使用的应是外地的苹果。( 编注：可 能是德国曾经的飞地青岛的苹果。青岛至今 仍以生产包括苹果等水果闻名。)

“In the 1930s one went to Baboud Marie & Cie for imported French products like pâtés and truffles, or to Venturis for Italian wines and New Zealand butter.

作家 Harry Franck 在《百年前的中国》 中提及，居于上海的外国商人「会在家中、 夜总会或外国酒店的餐厅吃饭，中国厨师会 依指示，仔细烹调出接近家乡的口味」。1908 年的一本常用语手册记载着如何以上海方言 指示厨师去买鸡肉、雉鸡肉、鸭肉、鹅肉、 火鸡肉、鹬肉、烤牛肉、牛排，还有羊肩、 羊腿或羊排。

1930 年代的外国人会去百部洋行买肉 酱、松露等法国进口食材，或去福勒洋行买 意大利葡萄酒和纽西兰黄油。 上海外滩一间时髦的上海夜总会就在 1930 年代贩售一种名为「帝芬」的餐点（即 盎格鲁文的「午餐」），第一道菜是番茄汤， 还有炸三鯠鱼配小黄瓜、鸡肉、培根配马铃 薯和豌豆、草莓甜点，最后以奶酪、水果和 咖啡作结，广受旅居上海的外国人喜爱。浦

Serenaded by the American jazz orchestra, patrons started with olives, celery, and bread rolls before moving on to heartier fare.

AMUSEBOUCHES

“The exclusive Shanghai Club located on the Bund waterfront . . . served food which in the 1930s included ‘tiffin,’ an AngloIndian term meaning lunch, popularized by foreigners living in Shanghai – starting with tomato soup, followed by fried fish (Samli) with cucumber, chicken, and bacon accompanied by potatoes and peas, a dessert of strawberries, rounded out with cheese, fruit, and coffee. The Astor House, Palace Hotel, Cathay Hotel, and Park Hotel served multicourse meals, the predecessor of the Sunday brunch buffet, which is now a fixture of dining in Shanghai.

“In the late 1800s and early 1900s, there was a craze for foreign food among Shanghai’s Chinese residents, which took the form of versions of British and French dishes, and later Russian, after the 1917 revolution brought new immigrants to the city. By 1931, there were said to be more than 150 restaurants serving ‘Western’ food . . .

“In 1926 a new Cantonese restaurant opened, Sun Ya, seemingly aimed at foreign diners, and earned the title of ‘probably the best spot to get a Chinese dinner,’ according to the guidebook Shanghai: High Lights, Low Lights, Tael Lights. The bilingual menu, availability of knives and forks, and even bread ‘for the convenience of foreign patrons’ made the restaurant easily accessible.”

江饭店、汇中饭店、华懋饭店和国际饭店则 供应多道菜肴组成的餐点，如今上海常见的 周日自助早午餐就是从其演变而来。

在 19 世纪末和 20 世纪初，居于上海的 中国人之间掀起一波对于异国料理的狂热， 英式和法式料理成为这股风潮的主流。1917 年的俄国革命为上海带来一群新移民后，俄 式料理也蔚为风潮。到 1931 年，上海供应西 式料理的餐厅据称已经超过 150 间。

1926 年开幕的新雅粤菜馆锁定外籍饕客 为客群，也被《老上海游乐指南》称为「享 用中式料理的最佳去处」。餐厅不但提供双语 菜单及刀叉，甚至还为顾及外籍食客而供应 面包，显得相当平易近人。

APPETIZERS

IN MORE RECENT TIMES, China’s watershed year for many things, including fine dining, was 1978, when Deng Xiaoping promulgated his Open Door Policy and declared, “To get rich is glorious!” Within a decade, fine-dining restaurants began to open or, especially in Shanghai, to reopen. Individual enterprises were starting to serve superb food, albeit often in shabby surroundings. Almost overnight, the country’s finest chefs donned their white aprons, picked up their cleavers, and continued almost where they’d left off a decade earlier. Local and international entrepreneurs started looking for opportunities in the hospitality sector.

Perhaps surprisingly, the flagship of one of China’s most famous Western restaurants, Kiessling’s Café, founded by a German baker in 1901, seems to have flourished continuously except for a change of name to Tianjin Canteen.

British sinologist Frances Wood spent 1975 as part of a group of students sent to Beijing to study Chinese. In her entertaining memoir, Hand Grenade Practice in Peking, she describes trips to Tianjin, where she and her fellow students sought an occasional change from the cabbage-centered hostel fare. She writes, “The great treat was a meal in the prewar opulence of Kiessling’s upstairs dining room with its beveled mirrors, heavy carved furniture, and a gallery stuffed with Chinese families tucking in to knickerbocker glories. The waiters were as much original fittings as the furniture and spoke a comfortable Chinglish.” Students feasted on bread and butter, borscht with cream, chicken Stroganoff with champignons de Paris, and beef stew sizzling in individual cauldrons. “Then ice cream (with chocolate sauce) petits fours and coffee in glasses, Russian-style. All this was accompanied by gin, bottled at the Tianjin Winery. The whole vast meal cost six yuan each. On the way out we bought bags of coffee beans which were utterly unobtainable in Peking.”

great treat was a meal in the prewar opulence of the upstairs dining room with its beveled mirrors, heavy carved furniture, and a gallery stuffed with Chinese families tucking in to knickerbocker glories.

由一位德国糕点师在 1901 年创立的中国 知名西餐厅龙头起士林餐馆出人意料地持续 蓬勃壮大，除了作出一个更名为「天津餐厅」 的小改变。

中国近年来在许多领域都有重大转折，精致 餐饮亦出现分水岭。邓小平在 1978 年推动门 户开放政策时宣告「致富光荣」后，精致餐 饮餐厅在短短十年内如雨后春笋般开张，上 海更有不少这类餐厅重新开业。私人经营的 餐厅尽管用餐环境大多破旧如昔，却也纷纷 开始供应高级料理，全国的顶尖大厨仿佛都 在一夕间重新穿起洁白的厨衣、拾起厨刀、 继续十年前搁置的未竟之业，国内外的创业 家也开始在餐旅产业找寻良机。

1975 年受派至北京学习中文的英国汉学 家 Frances Wood 在趣味横生的回忆录《留 学北京》中曾提及，到天津出游让她和同学 得以短暂脱离青年旅馆以高丽菜为主的伙食。 她写道：「起士林餐馆楼上的用餐空间有股战 前的奢华氛围，摆设了斜边镜和浮雕家具， 亦展示一些中国家族身穿灯笼裤的照片，服 务生的风格也跟家具如出一辙，操着一口听 来舒畅的中式英文，在这样的环境下用餐真 是难得的享受。」学生们大啖抹上黄油的面包、 淋上鲜奶油的罗宋汤、俄式酸奶鸡肉佐磨菇， 每人还有一小锅烧得滋滋作响的炖牛肉。「接 着端上的是俄式风格甜点，有淋上巧克力酱 的冰淇淋、小茶点和以玻璃杯盛装的咖啡， 再配上天津酒厂酿制的琴酒。这顿大餐每人 六元，走出餐厅前，我们还买了好几袋北京 买不到的咖啡豆。」

The

楼上的用餐空间有 股战前的奢华氛 围，摆设了斜边镜 和浮雕家具，亦展 示一些中国家族身 穿灯笼裤的照片。

HER WORK IN THE TRAVEL INDUSTRY

first took Madeleine Lynn to China in 1980. She returned many times before moving to Beijing in 1984. She still recalls the consistently good food prepared in Shanghai’s Xijiao State Guest Hotel. “They did a marvelous vegetarian banquet – mock duck and so on, beautifully prepared vegetable dishes, delicate flavors and lovely to look at, also excellent regular banquets, all washed down with quantities of Mautai. It was an excuse for the manager to drink the stuff and there would be toast after toast. I remember the regular banquets often included a whole steamed fish with small blinking battery lights in place of the eyes, which both appalled and fascinated most foreign guests.

“Food was also really good at the Peace Hotel. Banquets took place in the private rooms on a high floor of the hotel. Following course after course of wonderful Shanghai cuisine, the lights would be dimmed and flaming Baked Alaska would be brought in.

Indeed, as I recall, the food was generally best in Shanghai, Hangzhou, and Suzhou, where great chefs kept the old traditions alive.”

Restaurants did their best to please foreign visitors, but in those early days, says Lynn, “few Chinese chefs understood what foreigners liked and disliked and assumed that, like Chinese, they would be impressed by rare, expensive dishes. Guilin was infamous for serving endangered species, pangolin for example. You always had to ask in advance to please not serve them – or turtle. A sad little zoo in a park in Guilin was next door to a restaurant that I always stayed away from! I also remember being served dog a couple of times – so warming and nutritious in the winter, we were told –not endangered, at least, but not a hit with foreigners.

“In 1983 I brought a fam trip to Nanjing’s newly opened Jinling Hotel. It was the city’s tallest building, and crowds of people stood outside just to gaze at it. The hotel tried very hard to impress us and served a Western dinner (a great novelty at that time) and

ENTRÉES

Lynn 在 1980 年首度因旅游产业的 工作而来到中国，经多次往返后，她在 1984 年迁居北京，她至今仍对上海西郊宾馆的美 馔记忆犹新：「那里的素宴令人惊艳，有素鸭 等多道精致的蔬食菜肴，风味高雅，外观也 很美丽。一般的宴席也很出色，总是会有大 量的茅台酒，经理三杯下肚后，便不断有人 接连举杯祝酒致辞。我记得一般宴席都会有 一道清蒸全鱼，鱼眼睛里闪烁着微亮的光， 大多外国客人都为之惊奇。和平饭店的菜式 也很可口，宴席都会在高楼层的私人包厢举 办，美味的上海料理一道接着一道，最后在

调暗的灯光中上桌的是甜点火焰雪山。我记 得昔日上海、杭州和苏州的食物最为美味， 这些地区的主厨以精湛的技艺保存传统。」

Madeleine 提到许多餐厅都会尽其所能 博得外国客人欢心。「早期中国的厨师大多不 太了解外国人的喜好，他们认为外国人跟中 国人一样喜欢珍稀昂贵的食材。桂林就是个 声名狼藉的地方，餐厅会把像穿山甲或龟类 这些濒临绝种的生物入菜，每次都要事先要 求他们不要端出这类菜式。桂林一间餐厅隔 壁的公园里就有一小座令人不忍卒睹的迷你 动物园，我都会避开那里。我还记得有好几 次桌上端来狗肉 他们说在冬天吃狗肉既 暖身又有营养 虽然狗没有濒临绝种，但 外国人也不爱吃。」

「我在 1983 年带前来旅游的家人造访南 京新开幕的金陵饭店，当时那是全南京最高 的大楼，吸引许多人站在外面观赏。饭店极 力想让我们留下好印象，于是供应西式餐点 （在当时可是相当新颖），接着又端上精心制

Madeleine

then an elaborate Chinese banquet, the high point of which was announced with great fanfare as ‘swallows returning to the nest.’ A large round platter with a nest made of seaweed in the middle was surrounded by a circle of whole roasted rice birds, heads cocked, looking longingly at the nest. Great consternation from the guests and puzzlement from the Chinese hosts.”

The late Chicago-born Tom Gorman, a longtime Hong Kong resident, first visited China in 1975 to attend the Canton Trade Fair and returned frequently to the country thereafter. Editor in chief of Fortune China from 1996 until his recent retirement, he recalled the earliest waves of visiting foreign PhD researchers working in the fields of agronomy and demographics at Sichuan University in Chengdu. As part of a growing group of North American academics at the university, they were assigned, as was the

custom at that time, a “liaison person” from the university’s foreign affairs department to ensure that the foreigners were as happy and comfortable as possible.

At one meeting, in response to a query about food, one of the Americans waxed eloquent about the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday and its traditional feast. “This morphed into exploring the possibility of somehow obtaining a turkey and other fixings for such a meal,” said Gorman. “The earnest young liaison officer had heard of neither Thanksgiving nor turkeys but expressed a willingness to try his best to accommodate the visitors’ wish, provided they would instruct the chef in the restaurant of the hotel where they lived on how to prepare and cook the meal. The deal was done, and at each subsequent group meeting, the Thanksgiving meal was an agenda item.

group received his breakthrough report that he had succeeded in finding a turkey for Thanksgiving. A celebratory mood ensued, with volunteers stepping forward to help the chefs prepare various dishes for the holiday feast. At their next meeting, one participant asked the liaison man where he had finally found the turkey. ‘In the zoo,’ he answered.”

作的中式宴席菜。宴席最精彩的菜式『燕鸟 归巢』声势浩大地出场 巨大的圆浅盘中 央放了一个以海带制成的巢，周围是一圈抬 起头、殷切地望着鸟巢的烤禾花雀。客人大 惊失色，馆方的中国人对他们的反应则是极 其不解。」

已故的 Tom Gorman 从 1996 年便开始 担任《财富》总编辑，他出生于芝加哥、长 居于香港，在 1975 年因参加广交会首次踏入 中国后便经常造访。他回忆起早期去成都四 川大学拜访研究农学和人口统计学的外籍博 士生时，四川大学的国际事务处给这群来自 北美、人数日益壮大的学者每人都指派了一 位「联络人」，以确保这群外国人的生活能过 得惬意又舒适。

其中一位美国人在某场会议中滔滔不绝 地谈起即将到来的感恩节和传统大餐。Tom 说道：「后来情况演变成要看看是否有可能取 得一只火鸡和其他配料，促成这顿大餐。那 位最年轻的联络人没听过感恩节，也没听过 火鸡，但他表示如果外籍学者愿意指导他们 住宿的饭店餐厅主厨如何烹调这顿大餐，他 就愿意竭尽全力满足他们的心愿。协议达成 后，感恩节大餐成为后续小组会议的一项议 程。联络人起初回报给小组的消息令人泄气，

“Initially, the liaison man’s reports back to the group were discouraging. Try as he might, he was having no luck finding a turkey in China. Most Chinese at the time considered turkey to be a dry and unappetizing menu item, although it was at least available in-season at the sort of select retail outlets that catered more to foreigners.

“He tried all the channels he could think of, but came up empty. So it was with considerable relief and excitement that the

In the early years after 1978, journalist and entrepreneur C. P. Ho recalls that food problems for visitors to China were not confined to ingredients. “The Chinese kept very early hours for dinner and would seldom if ever keep their kitchens open after six in the evening. Many foreign businessmen had their first taste of life in China by forgoing normal dinner. The more adventurous among them experimented with instant noodles, still a novelty at that time. But most sought relief from their staff or colleagues in Hong Kong. The supermarkets in the British colony did a superb job catering to their needs and in the process introduced a latent Chinese market to Western brands.”

As Madeleine Lynn recalls, “Back then you ate what was grown locally and little

厅会出菜，很多外籍商人都舍弃晚餐，初尝 中国生活的滋味，勇于尝鲜的人还会尝试在 当时仍属新奇产品的泡面，但大多人都转而 向住在香港的同事寻求协助。香港属英国殖 民地，那里的超市总能满足外国人的需求， 也无形中为西方品牌打开中国市场。」

尽管他尽了一切努力，还是无法在中国找到 火鸡。虽然某些以外国人为主要客群的零售 商店会在当季时贩售火鸡，但当时大多中国 人都认为火鸡既干涩又不美味。他联络了所 有他能想到的管道，但仍空手而回，所以当 他取得突破性进展、成功为感恩节找到一只 火鸡时，整个小组都欣喜若狂，也有人自告 奋勇要协助厨师准备节庆大餐的菜式。在下 一次会议中，有人问那位联络人最后是在哪 里找到火鸡，他回答道：『动物园』。」

记者兼创业家 CP Ho 回忆道，在 1978 年后的几年，到访中国的外国人除了食材得 来不易，也还有其他食物方面的问题。「中国 人很早吃晚餐，晚上六点之后几乎没什么餐

Madeleine 忆述：「人们几乎都只吃得 到当地的食物，因此北京整个冬天唯一能取 得的蔬菜就只有高丽菜。堆满高丽菜的卡 车会在秋天开进大街小巷，所有人家里的 阳台都会有几颗慢慢流失水分的高丽菜。」

Madeleine 记得她在四川尝过最美味的一餐 是在都江堰附近的人民公社吃到的：「大部分 菜式都是蔬菜，所有食材都很新鲜，也烹调 得很细致。」

北京的建国饭店在 1982 年开张时为新一 代的奢华国际酒店揭开了序幕，他们的杰斯 汀法餐厅通过时间的考验，至今仍是当地人 在特殊节庆相当喜爱的精致餐饮去处。翌年， Pierre Cardin 在北京开设马克西姆餐厅，该

else, which meant that cabbage was the only vegetable available all winter in Beijing. Trucks piled high with cabbages would roll through the streets in the autumn and everyone would have cabbage drying on their balcony for a while.” Lynn still recalls the best meal she ever had in Sichuan as being in a people’s commune near the Dujiangyan Dam: “Mostly vegetables, everything was extremely fresh and exquisitely prepared.”

Beijing’s Jianguo Hotel was the first of a new generation of luxury foreign hotels when it opened in 1982. Its French restaurant, Justine’s, has stood the test of time as one of the city’s favorite fine-dining spots for special occasions. The following year, Pierre Cardin opened his Beijing branch of Maxim’s de Paris, and its belle epoque décor became the talk of Beijing gourmets. In Guangzhou the same year, attendees at the twice-yearly Canton Fair, among others, reveled in the newly completed White Swan Hotel with its special brand of elegance and comfort and its superb grillroom and resident French pastry chef.

By the mid-’80s, as new policies took root, farmers responded to incentives to plant and market cash crops. Tom Gorman recounted, “The deregulation of price controls and elimination of rationing for all but a few food items was reflected in the increased variety of produce, and this was reflected in restaurant menus. Non-stateowned restaurants also began appearing and offering better food and service. I don’t think the cabbages disappeared; rather they were gradually supplanted by the new, broader variety of vegetables.”

The late zoologist Maria Maarova Boyd arrived in Beijing in 1985 to work as a foreign expert in a Chinese unit. Even at this date, the range of non-Chinese dining options was limited, especially when it came to fiery flavors from the Indian subcontinent. She soon discovered what was then the best curry in town, prepared by the PIA flight crew, who brought all the ingredients with them. Somehow Boyd managed to charm her way to a regular place at the weekly sessions of home-cooked curries followed by imported ice cream.

their decision on the flavor and presentation of her dishes as well as her speed and skill in preparing them.

Li Li’s father, Li Shanlin, had grown up in the imperial household, where his father and grandfather oversaw household matters, including cooking. Although he became a university professor, he retained his fascination with the authentic recipes that he’d watched the court chefs preparing. Decades later, he took over the cooking for his own family and started recreating some of the court dishes. Li Li in turn watched him and began to experiment. Friends and neighbors enthused about her food, and, boosted by her success in the cooking contest, she opened a small restaurant, with a maximum of ten diners around a table in her bedroom and food prepared over a single kerosene burner in a minuscule makeshift kitchen.

餐厅的美好年代风格装潢成为北京美食家的 热门话题。白天鹅宾馆于同一年在广州开幕， 一年两度的广交会与会者前往狂欢，这栋主 打优雅及舒适的酒店里有一间宏伟华丽的扒 房，更有常驻的法籍甜点主厨。

到 1980 年代中期，新政策已然生根， 农民受到鼓励，开始种植并销售经济作物。

Tom 回忆说：「大部分食物的价格管控和定额 配给管制已经撤销，因此农产品种类开始变 多，餐厅的菜单也随之改变。私营餐厅渐渐 出现，开始供应更可口的食物，服务也变好。 高丽菜并没有消失，只是逐渐被更新更多样 的蔬菜取代。」

在 1985 年，已故动物学家 Maria Maarova Boyd 到北京的中国单位担任外籍专 家，当时非中式的用餐去处不多，来自印度 次大陆的浓烈风味更是难寻，但她很快便找 到全北京最美味的咖喱 由随身携带所有 食材的巴基斯坦国际航空机组人员做出的道 地风味。Maria 为自己博得每周家常咖喱聚会 的一席，饭后还有进口冰淇淋。

厉家菜餐厅就是该年代的成功典范，这

One of the lasting success stories from this era is Family Li Imperial Cuisine, opened in 1985, still going strong today, and earning a star in the capital’s first Michelin awards, announced in November 2020. One of Beijing’s great foodie success stories begins in 1984 when a young nursing graduate, Li Li, entered a national cooking competition and won first prize for her fourteen-course meal, prepared within two hours. The judges based

The first guests, from the Ministry of Health, told colleagues and friends about their exceptional dining experience. Word of mouth soon brought diplomats, captains of industry, and international VIP s to the hutong. Today, Li Li and her sister are

趣，也在数十载后为家人下厨，重现一些御 膳房的菜肴。厉莉看着父亲做菜，并开始动 手尝试，亲朋好友对她的料理赞不绝口。她 在厨艺大赛得奖后趁势开了一间小餐厅，在 她睡房中用一张能容纳十人的桌子招待客人， 料理则是在简陋狭小的厨房中仅使用一个煤 油炉烹调。

间于 1985 年开业的餐厅至今仍生意兴隆，更 在 2020 年 11 月北京首届米其林指南中荣获 一星。故事起源于 1984 年，年轻的护理毕业 生厉莉参加了一场全国厨艺大赛，评审以风 味、摆盘与烹调的速度和技巧作为评分依据， 她在两小时内做出一席十四道菜的料理，赢 得冠军。

厉莉的父亲厉善麟成长于拥有宫廷背景 的家庭，他的父亲和祖父负责监督内务府的 食衣住行。厉善麟虽成为大学教授，仍对小 时候观看御膳房烹调的正统宫廷料理深感兴

第一批从卫生部来访的客人用餐后，向 同事及好友转述这顿绝妙的用餐经验，口耳 相传之下，外交官、产业大亨、外国贵宾都 来到这条胡同「觅食」。厉莉和她妹妹如今在 澳洲把餐厅经营得有声有色，而她的兄弟姊 妹则留在北京维系家族事业，当初的小场地 已扩展成四户宅邸的大餐厅。 从餐旅业发展成为公关公司创办人的 Dominic Bauquis 在 1994 年到北京一间新的 五星级酒店工作，麦当劳和肯德基也于同年 首度在高档购​​物中心开设据点。这类连锁产 业一度被视为西餐的巅峰，然而五星级酒店 餐厅和一连串私营的精致餐饮餐厅接连崛起，

successful restaurateurs in Australia, while her siblings maintain the family tradition in Beijing in premises that have expanded into a four-sided courtyard house.

Dominic Bauquis, a hospitality professional turned niche PR company founder, arrived in China in 1994 to work in one of Beijing’s new five-star hotels. That was the year McDonald’s and KFC opened their first outlets in high-end shopping malls. For a while, these chains were popularly believed to represent the pinnacle of Western dining. But they were soon overtaken by a new wave of five-star hotel restaurants and a succession of independent fine-dining restaurants, most of them in superb historic settings.

Bauquis’s professional background enhanced his ringside seat for observing the passing show. “In 1996,” he says, “chef Brian McKenna and entrepreneur Handel Lee joined forces to open The Courtyard, where the food was as memorable as the view of Donghuamen, the eastern gate of the Forbidden City. Around the same time, The China Club Beijing opened in a seventeenthcentury palace and surrounding courtyards. The complex comprised a hundred thousand square meters devoted to the re-creation of a fabled era of elegant chinoiserie, comfort, and superb cuisine, to the delight of local and international VIPs. Sadly, it was demolished

in 2016, by which time it had been overtaken by other ventures in heritage buildings.”

While Beijing’s stylish dining options continued to proliferate, Shanghai was not standing still. When Australian restaurateur Michelle Garnaut opened M on the Bund on the seventh floor of the former Nissin Shipping Building in 1999, it was Shanghai’s first new restaurant set in a historic building. For twenty years, it has continued to be a trendsetter, epitomizing everything most glamorous in Shanghai.

“Five-star hotels still led the way well into the 2000s,” says Bauquis, “with upmarket restaurants all overseen by experienced international chefs. The pivotal moment in the development of the fine-dining restaurant scene in China’s capital city came in the summer of 2001 when the 2008 Summer Olympic Games were awarded to Beijing.

“The announcement immediately placed the city on the international map, and over the next six years, Beijing embarked on

the largest infrastructure remodeling ever seen. In addition, the status provided by the Olympics also attracted keen interest from local and international restaurant operators, hotel groups, and investors. Most came into operation between 2006 and the first quarter of 2008. They brought forward a host of new and creative concepts, allowing Beijing to go some way towards catching up on Shanghai’s dining and clubbing scene.”

In 2008, 1949: The Hidden City opened. It was the brainchild of Hong Kong-based Paul Hsu, founder of Elite Concepts, whose innovative dining venue was set in a former factory, the Beijing Machinery and Electric Institute, originally built in 1949 on Beijing’s east side. The six thousand square meters of walled space offered unexpected privacy and intimacy.

这些地方大多拥有充满历史氛围的绝佳用餐 环境，掀起一波新风潮，很快就取代麦当劳 和肯德基这类连锁餐厅。

Dominic 的工作背景让他得以清晰地观 察这些现象。他说：「主厨 Brian McKenna 和 创业家李景汉在 1996 年合力开了马克南四合 轩，那里的料理就跟紫禁城东华门的景致一 样令人难忘。在同一时期，北京中国会开张， 这个会所位于一座十七世纪建造的宫殿中， 周围有庭院环绕，整栋建筑占地十万平方米， 重现过去中国式的富丽堂皇，也供应上等佳 肴，为当地及外国宾客带​​来顶级享受。可惜

这间会馆在 2016 年遭到拆除，那时其他于古 迹内经营的店家规模早已赶上他们。」

当北京的时髦用餐去处大增之际，上海

也不遑多让。来自澳洲的 Michelle Garnaut 于 1999 年在前身为日清船运大楼的七楼开了 米氏西餐厅，成为上海第一间座落于历史建 筑的新式餐厅。这间餐厅二十年来持续引领 风潮，成为上海光鲜亮丽的象征。

Dominic 表示：「五星级酒店在 2000 年 代的发展仍然领先，高级餐厅则皆由阅历丰 富的外国主厨坐镇。在 2001 年夏季，2008 年夏季奥运宣布将于北京举办，这对北京的 精致餐饮业发展是个很重大的时刻。主办奥 运的消息马上让北京跃上国际舞台，北京的 公共建设在接下来的六年间迎来史上规模最 大的改建，而且奥运主办城市的身分也引起 国内外餐厅业者、酒店集团和投资人的兴趣， 他们大多于 2006 年和 2008 年第一季之间前

来开业，也引进诸多新兴概念，北京餐饮及 夜生活的发展趁势赶上了上海的脚步。」

优意集团创办人徐保罗以全新概念打造

的 1949 The Hidden City 餐厅于 2008 年开张， 独特的用餐环境前身为 1949 年建于北京东边 的工厂「北京机电院」，以墙围出的六千平方 米空间为这里带来一种独特的隐密氛围。 Dominic 说：「这个地点很棒，概念也极

“It was an amazing location,” says Bauquis, “and the concept was groundbreaking on many levels. While the entire complex had an industrial-chic feel, the main focus was on one restaurant, Duck de Chine, a Peking-duck restaurant in a class of its own at the time. Distinctive features included promotion of the duck-Champagne combination, with a Champagne bar prominently featured at the entrance. While featuring traditional Chinese fare, the menu also offered the best French-style duck dishes.” The wine list was exclusively French and included Grands Crus Classés First Growth selections from such châteaux as Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, Haut-Brion and Cheval Blanc in vintages ranging from 1994 to 2002.

具突破性，整座建筑弥漫着一股工业时髦的 氛围，一切环绕的主轴是『全鸭季』 在 当年无可匹敌的北京烤鸭餐厅。餐厅其中一 项特色就是以香槟搭配鸭肉，入口就有个很 显眼的香槟吧。虽然这间餐厅主要供应的是 中式料理，但菜单上也有法式鸭肉料理。 」 酒单上清一色都是法国酒，有来自拉菲古堡、 木桐堡、拉图堡、玛歌堡、侯伯王庄园、白 马酒庄等一级特等酒庄从 1994 年到 2002 年 间的选酒。

Five-star hotels still led the way well into the 2000s , with upmarket restaurants all overseen by experienced international chefs.

“THE SECOND OUTSTANDING concept established in Beijing ahead of the Olympic Games,” says Bauquis, “was The Legation Quarter created by Handel Lee, the driving force behind The Courtyard in Beijing ten years earlier. In 2004, he had brought in investors to launch Three-on-the-Bund in Shanghai. It made headlines at the time as the first historical building on the Bund to be fully redesigned. The seven-story stone mansion boasted upscale restaurants, including Jean-Georges, and a prominent art gallery, an Evian Spa, and luxury shops.

“While redesigning Three-on-theBund, Lee also focused on the former three-acre American Legation compound in Beijing’s Qianmen, around the corner from Tiananmen Square. His idea was to replicate the Shanghai success and for the historical

site built in 1906 to become a complex of creative restaurants, upmarket retail showrooms, and trendy art galleries.

“Outlets started to open from mid2007 onwards. It combined original buildings restored to their former glory, such as the former residence of the US ambassador that became Maison Boulud à Pékin (Beijing’s finest ever French restaurant) and contemporary all-glass buildings integrated in the overall redevelopment.

“Unfortunately the location turned out to have built-in drawbacks and most of the original restaurants closed, including Maison Boulud, in December 2013. The compound is still in operation today but without the unique vision and stylish execution of the original concept.

“Among the many new restaurant concepts introduced by five-star hotels ahead of the Summer Games, the Shangri La Beijing

Dominic 表示：「北京在奥运前第二个出色的 杰作就是李景汉打造的前门 23 号，这位在十 年前促成马克南四合轩背后的推手于 2004 年 召集投资人于上海开设外滩三号，在当时上 了头版，因为这是外滩第一栋经重新设计的 历史建筑。这栋七层楼高的石制大厦里有包 含 Jean-Georges 在内的高级餐厅、顶级艺廊、 依云水疗和奢侈品商店。」

「李景汉在重新设计外滩三号时，也着 手策画改造北京占地三英亩的美国大使馆旧 址，该处位于北京正阳门，离天安门广场不 远。他想把上海成功的模式套用在这栋建于 1906 年的历史建筑上，让特色餐厅、高端零 售展示厅和时尚的艺廊进驻。商店在 2007 年 中期陆续开张，营业场所融合建筑往昔的荣

“In addition to French, Japanese, and Spanish cuisine, the Legation also showcased authentic culinary experiences from other parts of the world, including Italy (Ristorante Sadler), South Africa (Meat & Wine Co.) and China (Zen). A museum-quality contemporary art gallery and a very exclusive Swiss watch maker also established themselves at the Legation.

光，从美国大使前居所摇身一变，成为北京 史上最顶级的法式餐厅布鲁宫法餐厅，改建 后的大楼结合了具现代感的全玻璃结构。」

「前门 23 号除了有法式、日式和西班牙 餐厅，也能找到来自世界其他角落的道地口 味，如三乐意式餐厅的意大利菜、Meat & Wine Co. 的南非菜和蝶 1903 的中国菜。博物 馆等级的当代艺廊和瑞士顶级钟表品牌也进 驻于此。」

「可惜这地点本身有其短处，起初就开业

的餐厅大部分都在 2013 年 12 月结业，布鲁 宫法餐厅也不例外。前门 23 号仍营业至今， 但原先那种独特的场景和时髦的风貌已不复 存在。」

「五星级酒店在奥运前开设了许多概念 新颖的餐厅，北京香格里拉酒店也在 2007 年 开了蓝韵餐厅，内部以现代风装饰塑造出水 底的氛围，由获奖肯定的爱尔兰籍主厨 Brian McKenna 掌舵，把北京的现代料理带向全新 的层次。Brian 以分子料理概念创造出一道道 令人惊叹的菜肴，在北京前所未见，实属一 大赌注。蓝韵餐厅在郊区有自己的菜园，能 取得当时全国最接近有机的食材，这也是史 无前例的做法，蓝韵餐厅因而在 2008 年获

《Time Out》杂志颁发最创新餐厅奖。」

「北京在奥运前后那段时期兴建了许多豪 华酒店，先前在酒店里开设欧式精致餐饮场 所的热潮已经褪去。在这个情况下，重新拟 定这些餐厅的呈现形式是个很重要的考量。」

「现代风格的扒房在这局面下重新崛起，

THE LEGATION QUARTER

came up with Blu Lobster, opened in 2007 with a contemporary underwater theme. Chef de Cuisine Brian McKenna, an Irish-born award-winner, was at the helm, elevating modern cuisine in Beijing to a new level. His extraordinary creativity was supported by the concept of molecular gastronomy, a first in Beijing that raised the stakes considerably. The restaurant managed its own garden in the suburbs, as close to organic as one could get in China at the time. It was another first for the restaurant, which received the Most Innovative eating-out award from Time Out magazine in 2008.

“During the pre- and post-Olympics periods, many new luxury hotels were established in the city. Reconfiguring what traditional continental fine-dining outlets should become was a key concern, taking into account the current situation in China, where such outlets are no longer popular in hotels.

“One of the rediscovered concepts was a modern version of the grillroom. Many five-star properties, such as the Westin Chaoyang, the Conrad Beijing, and the JW Marriott, feature a grill as their only Western restaurant. The opening of two top boutique hotels, the Park Hyatt at the prestigious Beijing Yintai Centre and later the Summit Wing at the China World Trade Center Tower III , confirmed the trend. In an interesting twist, traditional Western fine-dining outlets were becoming redundant in the late 2000s, while Chinese restaurants were stepping up in terms of design, service standards, culinary finesse, and wine selection.”

许多五星级酒店 如金茂北京威斯汀酒店、 北京康莱德酒店、北京 JW 万豪酒店 都有 一间扒房作为他们唯一的西式餐厅，北京柏 悦、北京银泰中心这两间顶级精品旅馆与中 国世贸中心的北京国贸大酒店的开幕也证实 了这股潮流。有趣的是，传统的西式精致餐 饮餐厅在 2000 年代越发显得多余，反而是中 式餐厅无论在内部设计、服务品质、菜肴精 致度和选酒都后来居上。 」

DESSERTS

“FINE CONTINENTAL DINING in Beijing is nowadays found in only a few free-standing restaurants,” says Bauquis, “and hotels have boldly adjusted their F&B operations to fit the new reality. Certain top-end hotels no longer feature any Continental restaurant. As early as 2014, the elegant Waldorf Astoria featured the all-day-dining restaurant Brasserie 1893 as their only outlet offering Western options. Similarly, at the newly opened (fall 2019) PuXuan Hotel and Spa, the all-day dining operation, Rive Gauche, is the only restaurant serving ‘bistronomy cuisine,’ a fancy name for creative bistro fare under the helm of a French chef.

“Two of the most acclaimed hotels in town are nowadays the contemporary InterContinental Beijing Sanlitun and the Rosewood Beijing. Both offer an interesting mix of stylish and upmarket yet casual venues. The InterContinental’s leading

restaurants include, not surprisingly, a grill, the Char Bar & Grill, and Ying Chinese, offering Cantonese specialties with Western elements. The Rosewood features Bistro B, a contemporary outlet upgrading a traditional bistro experience to new heights, and Country Kitchen, a creative tribute to Northern Chinese cuisine.

“A couple of grand-luxe hotels stand out on the Beijing dining scene. One is the Bulgari Hotel Beijing, which made a unique statement when it started operation in 2017. Unlike the city’s other top hotels, it did not feature either a Chinese or an all-day-dining restaurant. It has only the contemporaryItalian Il Ristorante, run in partnership with Chef Niko Romito of Italy’s three-Michelinstar restaurant Reale.

“The Peninsula Beijing‘s complete renovation in 2016 led to a total rejuvenation

传统餐酒馆菜肴提升至新境界的当代餐馆怡 庭法餐厅，以及供应中国北方创意料理的乡 味小厨。」

「有几间顶级豪华酒店也在北京的餐饮 风貌中崭露头角，2017 年开幕时经营方式独 树一格的北京宝格丽酒店就是其中之一。宝 格丽酒店并未像其他顶级酒店一样设置中式 或全日餐厅，而是与意大利的三星餐厅 Reale 主厨 Niko Romito 合作，仅开设一间供应当 代意大利料理的 Il Ristorante。」

Dominic 说：「现在北京只有一些独立餐厅会 供应欧式精致餐饮，酒店则因应新情势大胆 地调整餐饮部的经营模式，某些顶级酒店不 再主打欧式餐厅。早在 2014 年，以雅致著称 的北京华尔道夫酒店就仅有全日餐厅鸢尾宫 1893 在供应西餐。在 2019 年秋天开幕的北京 璞瑄酒店也是如此，仅有全日经营的左岸餐 厅供应『法式餐酒馆佳肴』 意即由法国 主厨带来餐酒馆价位的创意料理。」

「城里现今两间最受好评的酒店是极具现 代感的三里屯通盈中心洲际酒店和北京瑰丽 酒店，两间酒店里都有高贵不贵的时尚餐厅。

三里屯通盈中心洲际酒店有恰牛扒房和供应 西式粤菜的盈中餐，瑰丽酒店主打的则是将

「在 2016 年整修完毕的北京王府半岛酒 店让整个餐饮部门又再度活跃起来，发展好 几年的『从产地到餐桌』概念至此跃升至全 新层级。王府半岛酒店如今与中国 22 个经认 证的有机产地直接合作，每一季都能取得永 续栽植的新鲜蔬菜、水果、肉品和蜂蜜，现 在也自营温室，种植新鲜香草。」

「TRB 餐饮集团旗下在北京有两间一流的 独立欧式餐厅，这一切起源于 2011 年 11 月， 北京古寺餐厅（现名为 TRB 胡同餐厅）在紫 禁城北方一座有六百年历史的寺庙开业，在 餐厅创办人 Ignace Lecleir 的管理下供应法国 风格的欧陆料理，服务也是无懈可击，曾获 许多奖项肯定，2015 年更在北京读者餐厅评 选中横扫九项大奖。」

of the entire F&B operation. The ‘farm-to-table’ concept, already implemented for several years, reached new heights. The hotel now works directly with twenty-two farms in China, all certified organic, that supply sustainably produced vegetables, fruits, meat, and honey on a fresh, seasonal basis. The hotel now also has its own greenhouse dedicated to fresh herbs.

“Nowadays, the two leading free-standing Continental restaurants in town belong to the TRB Group, which started in November 2011, when the Temple Restaurant Beijing, now named TRB Hutong, opened in the grounds of a six-hundred-year-old Buddhist temple complex north of the Forbidden City. It offers European cuisine with strong French overtones and impeccable service under the management of restaurateur-owner Ignace Lecleir. Among its awards are the nine it nabbed in one sweep at the Beijinger’s Reader Restaurant Awards 2015.”

PETITS FOURS

DIGESTIF

Late in 2022 came the unexpected but warmly received news of the relaxation of most pandemicrelated restrictions in all facets of life in China. Undoubtedly, the hospitality industry is already responding enthusiastically. Given the pent-up demand on the part of diners for something new and the likely surge of entrepreneurs looking for F&B investment opportunities, 2023 should see some exciting developments in major Chinese cities.

2022 年底，中国突然调整疫情防控政策，进一步放 开管控，让不少业界人士喜出望外，其中要数酒店 餐饮业的反应最为热烈。食客在疫情期间的尝新需 求受到压抑，企业家们因此可能积极寻找在餐饮业 界的投资机会，相信 2023 年将会中国的主要城市带 来令人振奋的新气象。

THE SHANGHAI 2020 Michelin-star-rated restaurant list is the perfect illustration of China’s new dining scene. Out of forty starred restaurants, only six, or 15 percent, promote Western cuisine. Indeed, over the past ten years, fine dining has completely shifted towards Chinese restaurants. As was expected, the Beijing 2020 star-rated list, Michelin’s first venture into the Chinese capital, is even more heavily weighted towards Chinese restaurants like Li Li’s, which was awarded one star.

The 2022 Michelin guides for Beijing and Shanghai both reportedly confirm the trend of increasing emphasis on fine dining in the Chinese restaurant scene as the Western dining scene wanes.

2020 年上海米其林摘星餐厅的名单清楚阐述出中国餐饮 型态的新面貌，40 间摘星的餐厅里只有 6 间 也就是 15% 供应的是西式料理。这十年以来，中菜餐厅确实成 为精致餐饮的大宗。米其林评鉴在 2020 年首度进军中国首 都北京，果然不出所料，名单上的中菜餐厅比例更高，像厉 家菜就摘下一星。

从 2022 年度的北京和上海米其林指南也不难看出， 西式餐饮已不如从前受到重视，人们更热衷于发展中式精 致餐饮。

粤味洪流

BACK TO THE FUTURE

BY MAMIE CHEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

An innovative chef restores fine Cantonese cuisine –with his own contemporary touch –to San Francisco’s historic Chinatown.

Crispy quail prepared with chili, garlic, and twenty-year-old Huadiao wine, on a plate with kintsugi, from the Infini collection by RUYI 以「如意」无极系列金继盘盛 装的二十年花雕椒盐鹌鹑

“I HAVE ALWAYS FELT a responsibility to help introduce and spread good Cantonese cuisine to places around the world,” says Chef Ho Chee Boon. An internationally renowned, Malaysian-born chef with over thirty-six years of global experience, Boon worked extensively throughout Asia, where Cantonese cuisine was already appreciated as one of China’s great culinary traditions. Then he embarked on a mission to share his elevated style of Cantonese food abroad, initially in London as part of the team at Hakkasan Hanway Place, the first Chinese restaurant in Great Britain to earn a Michelin star, and later by opening numerous Hakkasan locations in Europe, the Middle East, and the US

It was in San Francisco that Boon came upon the opportunity to breathe new life into a venerable space in the heart of the city’s legendary Chinatown. For fifty years, Empress of China had reigned as an upscale Chinese banquet hall for tourists and for San Franciscans celebrating special occasions, but in recent years, it had sat empty and idle. The venue offered both an ideal location and historic significance for his first solo venture, Empress by Boon.

In revamping and renovating the space, Boon and the design team made sure to retain key elements from the original restaurant, including the street-level storefront signage, intricately carved panels, and a restored wooden pergola that frames the tea lounge. The juxtaposition between the antiques and the modern design elements creates a refreshingly layered impression that effectively transcends time.

Like the restaurant’s interior design, Boon’s culinary style is modern in execution yet firmly rooted in history. “I won’t say that my cuisine is better than traditional Cantonese cuisine,” he says, “but I would like to introduce something new – sometimes with different ingredients,

主厨何志文指出：「我一直觉得自己有责任将好 的粤菜介绍给广大群众，并传播到世界各地。」 粤菜在亚洲被公认为是中国最受欢迎的菜系之 一，而这位出生在马来西亚、国际知名的厨师就 曾在亚洲各地累积了丰富的工作经验，至今已入 厨超过三十六年。何志文展开了在世界各地分享 顶级粤菜风味的使命，最初他在英国第一家获 得米其林星级的中餐厅、位于伦敦的 Hakkasan Hanway Place 任职，Hakkasan 后来也在欧洲、 中东与美国开设数家分店。

在美国旧金山的唐人街上，何主厨正好 有机会能替一个历史悠久的空间注入全新生命。

五十年来，Empress of China 餐厅专门提供高档 的中国宴会料理，是一个能让食客庆祝特别活动 的场合。但近年来，Empress of China 一直处于 闲置状态，因此对于第一次创业的何主厨来说， 这里是再理想不过的地点。考虑到此处蕴含的 历史意义，何主厨把开设的餐厅命名为 Empress by Boon。

改造和翻新这个空间时，何主厨和设计团 队致力于保留餐厅原本的重点元素，包括临街的 店面招牌、精细的雕刻板和茶区的木制凉亭。复 古与现代装潢元素相得益彰，创造出令人耳目一 新的层次意象，成功揉合不同时期的风格。 如同餐厅的室内设计，何主厨的烹饪风格 也整合了现代以及历史传统。他说：「我不会说 我的料理比传统粤菜优秀，但我想引入一些新的

Jasmine-smoked pork ribs atop a bed of crispy rice noodles, presented on an embossed flat-rim plate in blue pearl, from the HanTang collection by RUYI 茉莉熏猪肋骨佐米通，以「如意」汉唐系列苍青色龙纹浮雕平沿盘盛装上桌

Braised sea bass with golden chanterelle mushrooms, in an embossed casserole dish with hand-applied gold leaf, from the HanTang collection by RUYI 在「如意」汉唐系列龙纹浮雕 砂锅中的焖烧海鲈鱼伴鸡油菌

Clockwise from top: Wagyu beef puff, roasted-duck-and-truffle puff, scallop-and-caviar roll, and summer truffle puff, presented on a tempura plate in blue pearl, from the Home Banquet collection by RUYI 自上起顺时针方向：和牛酥、松露烤鸭 酥、鱼子酱鲜贝蛋卷及夏季菇菌酥，放 在「如意」家宴系列的苍青色戈渣盘上

Chef Ho Chee Boon 主厨何志文

sometimes with a different touch, but always retaining traditional cooking techniques – to show the natural evolution of Cantonese cuisine.”

He uses rice noodles, for example, instead of regular wrappers for his crispy sea prawn rolls because he finds that noodles don’t absorb oil when deep-fried, providing a crispier and healthier result. And his summer truffle puffs filled with shimeji and dried shiitake mushrooms feature shells that are extra-crispy on the outside but soft and chewy on the inside, thanks to his surprising method of combining the flour with cold rather than hot water and chilling the dough before deep-frying.

Périgord truffles, jamón ibérico, and caviar are just as likely to make an appearance on the menu as shiitake mushrooms, Peking duck, and abalone. Boon’s decadent appetizer of scallop-and-caviar roll features a delicate egg roll filled with fresh scallop and egg white and topped with a generous dollop of caviar. And his update of the iconic xiaolongbao uses soup infused with the complex and intense flavor of jamón ibérico.

东西，有时使用不同食材，有时运用不同手法， 但永远会保留传统烹饪技术，彰显粤菜的演进。」

举例来说，他不用普通的面皮来制作脆皮海 虾卷，而是用米粉来包裹，因为他发现米粉在油 炸时不会吸收油份，吃起来更爽脆也更健康。而 他的夏季菇菌酥里充满了姬菇以及干香菇，外壳 酥脆，内里则柔软有嚼劲。这都是因为他用冷水 而非热水来调和面粉，并在油炸前将面团放到冰 箱冷藏。

佩里戈尔松露、伊比利火腿和鱼子酱，跟干 香菇、北京烤鸭和鲍鱼都有可能会出现在菜单上。

何主厨的扇贝鱼子酱卷是一道精致的开胃菜，装 满新鲜的扇贝与蛋白，并摆放了大量鱼子酱。他 也对经典的小笼包进行改造，在汤汁中注入鲜美 浓郁的伊比利火腿风味。

←

Steamed-squid-and-shrimp dumplings with hot-and-sour broth, served on a plate from the Oriental Petals collection by RUYI 用 「如意」华韵花瓣盘盛装的酸辣蒸双鲜饺

↑ Hoseki tea set with kintsugi from the Aroma collection by RUYI 「如意」香氲系列苍青色金继茶具

“I feel that a regional cuisine shouldn’t have to be limited to ingredients that originate in that particular region,” says Boon. “I like to explore and consider using things from all around the world. If it tastes good – and especially if it’s healthy – then why not? But I always cook my food with Cantonese techniques, and I always season my dishes with Cantonese flavors. In my kitchen, I haven’t turned Cantonese cuisine into European-Cantonese or American-Cantonese.”

Chef Boon’s creations are beautifully plated on tableware by RUYI, an Asian lifestyle brand whose mission and designs effortlessly blend Eastern philosophy, heritage, and culture with modern sensibilities. “I really admire the RUYI brand and am grateful to Desmond Chang and his family, who are behind it,” says Boon. “To raise the level of Chinese cuisine, we need everyone – not just one or two restaurants – to continually improve. Beautiful designs like this inspire us chefs to create even better cuisines that contribute to the evolution.”

←

Fresh Mission fig salad with sesame dressing, on a deep bowl in aurora, from the White Dew collection by RUYI 放在「如意」白露系列天极色深 碗中的芝麻酱无花果沙拉

何主厨说：「我觉得一个地区的菜肴不应局限 在只使用来自该区域的食材，我喜欢探索并尝试使 用来自世界各地的食材。如果异国食材的风味不错， 而且也更健康，那何不试试入菜？不过，我会一直 用广东菜的技法来烹饪，用广东的风味来调味，我 并没有把粤菜转变成欧式或美式的粤菜。」

何主厨的一系列料理精美地呈盘在「如意」 的餐具上。「如意」是一个亚洲文化及生活品牌， 以轻盈自在的方式和设计，将东方哲学、传统、文 化与现代风格相互结合。何主厨指出：「我真的很 欣赏如意这个品牌，也很感谢品牌创办人张聪和他 的家人。为了提升中国菜的水平，每个人都需要不 断进步，只有一两家餐馆改进是不够的。像这样的 美丽食器设计，激励我们这些厨师要创造出更美好 的食物，对不断演进的风味和美学有所贡献。」

非凡「法」现

HEIGHTENED DINING

Chef

raises SKYE’s menu to a new level with local products and classic French techniques.

BY NICOLE SLATER

BY DAVID HARTUNG

de Cuisine Florian Muller

•

PHOTOGRAPHY

Chef de Cuisine Florian Muller (second from left) leads SKYE’s creative culinary team.

行政主厨Florian Muller（左二） 与SKYE的团队合作无间。

Poitou pigeon baked in the crust, beetroot and coffee, kumquat jam and blackcurrant sauce

焗普瓦图白鸽，甜菜头，咖 啡，柑桔酱，黑加仑子汁

MANY CHEFS MIGHT FIND competing with SKYE’s panoramic views of Victoria Harbour a challenge, but Chef de Cuisine Florian Muller has curated the perfect menu to match the rooftop restaurant’s stunning location.

Since joining SKYE ’s dedicated team three months ago, Muller has carefully observed the restaurant’s daily operations and created a brand-new, approachable fine-dining menu to complement the restaurant’s unique atmosphere and clientele. “At SKYE,” he says, “we have the tools to play around with different types of services, and as a chef this allows me to experiment with a range of cooking styles that are reflected in the new menu.”

In such a luxurious setting, it would be easy to cater solely to a fine-dining concept, but Muller strongly believes that SKYE should be accessible to all. The menu offers an exciting new perspective by combining local flavors and time-honored French culinary style. The chef has carefully designed the menu’s dishes, from traditional set dinner specialties to an array of tapas and skewers, to suit every dining style and preference. “We’re here to serve our guests like friends,” he says, “and we’d never want to confine them to one box.”

With four distinct areas spread across the expansive restaurant, guests can tailor their dining experiences to suit individual needs. From a formal family dinner in the spacious and stylish dining area to a relaxed evening with friends, watching the sunset from the inviting terrace, SKYE offers something for every occasion. “We want to be there for our guests and offer a space where they can relax and dine wherever and whenever they’d like.”

Local ingredients, represented throughout the

来到 SKYE 用餐的宾客，可以饱览维多利亚港的摄人美景。要让端 出来的菜肴能跟如此壮丽的景致匹敌，对许多厨师来说或许是一大 挑战，但 SKYE 的行政主厨 Florian Muller 设计出无与伦比的菜单， 成功用美食来搭配餐厅窗外的绚丽景观。

在三个月前加入 SKYE 的专业团队后，Florian 仔细观察餐厅的 日常运作，为餐厅独一无二的氛围以及客群开发出全新、平易近人 的料理菜单。他表示：「在 SKYE，我们可以利用各种工具来尝试不 同的服务型态，这也让身为厨师的我能够实验多种烹饪风格，并体 现在新菜单中。」

在如此奢华的环境当中，如果只是要满足高级餐饮的概念，并 不是难事。不过，Florian 坚信 SKYE 应该要能满足不同客群的需求。 藉由运用当地风味，并结合历史悠久的法国烹饪技艺，这份菜单能

“We’re here to serve our guests like friends, and we’d never want to confine them to one box.

在这里，我们将宾客当成朋友 一样款待，我们不希望有所局限。”

Chef Florian Muller

menu, are a cause dear to Muller’s heart, both for their sustainable benefits and also because of his deep-rooted passion for the city. After almost a decade in Hong Kong, Muller’s appreciation for local cuisine, local ingredients, and the people who work tirelessly to produce them has grown tremendously. “I spend a lot of time visiting wet markets and small farms across Hong Kong,” he says. “Residing in Kowloon, I feel I’m better able to immerse myself in the culture and get inspiration from what people enjoy eating every day.”

By opting for local over internationally sourced ingredients, SKYE has been able to greatly reduce its plastic usage and carbon footprint. And since taking the reins, Muller has been working to make further progress in those areas while at the same time elevating the quality of each dish by seeking out new local suppliers, supporting fair fishing, and taking advantage of the restaurant’s rooftop garden to supply the herbs and vegetables featured on the menu. “Over the last five years, I believe the city has become more open to the farm-to-table concept. There’s still a lot of work to do, but we’re heading in the right direction.”

Muller’s personal meld of Eastern flavors and Western cooking methods is an apt metaphor for his own story as a chef. Growing up in Rhône-Alpes in France, he spent years learning the classic techniques of roasting, baking, braising, and smoking that are at the heart of French cuisine. All of them have been mastered by SKYE’s kitchen, where they are skillfully employed in making the most of local ingredients to create one-of-a-kind dishes. Examples include the chef’s Miso Roasted Pumpkin Salad with Spiced Pumpkin Ice Cream as well as Grilled Guéméné Andouille with Local Garden Pot Au Feu Vegetable and Umami Broth.

“People who dine at SKYE ,” says Chef Muller, “should be proud of what they’re eating, knowing that it’s locally sourced and respectful of the environment and that it supports small businesses and farmers across Hong Kong.”

Modern tart lemon and yuzu , Italian meringue and passion fruit 柠檬柚子挞，焗蛋白，热情果

针对不同场合提供独一无二的选择。菜单上的每道料理都经过精心设计， 从传统的晚间套餐到一系列的风味小菜以及烤串，满足各种用餐风格与偏 好。Florian 说：「在这里，我们将宾客当成朋友一样款待，我们不希望有 所局限。」

广阔的餐厅划分成四个不同区域，宾客能根据个人需要来打造专属用 餐体验，餐厅更会针对不同场合提供相应的服务。在宽敞时尚的用餐区， 大小家庭能享用正式的晚餐料理；在迷人的露台上，三五知己能够一起观 看日落、度过轻松愉快的夜晚。「我们希望为宾客提供一个空间，让他们 随时随地都能放松、享用美食。」

Florian 坚持在菜单中运用本地食材，因为这有助于提倡永续环保， 同时也体现出他对这个城市的热忱。在香港生活近十年后，Florian 对当地

美食、食材以及为生产这些食材而努力不懈的人们有着深厚 的谢意与欣赏之情。他说：「我花了很多时间参观香港的市 场与小农场。我居住在九龙，因此能更深刻体验本地的文化， 并从大家每天喜欢吃的东西中汲取料理灵感。」

藉由选择本地而非进口的食材原料，SKYE 大幅减少塑胶 制品用量以及碳足迹。自从主掌餐厅以来，Florian 一直致力 于在永续环保方面有所进展。除了寻找新的本地食材供应商， 他也相当支持公平捕捞，同时也会利用餐厅的顶楼花园来种 植料理所需的香草和蔬菜，借此提升每道菜的品质。「过去五 年来，我相信大家对『农场直送』的接受度有所提高。在这 方面我们还有很漫长的路，不过我们已向着正确的方向迈进。」

Florian 结合东方风味与西方烹饪技法的特长，完美诉说 他作为厨师的背景与成长历程。在法国罗纳－阿尔卑斯大区 长大的他，花了多年时间学习炙烤、烘焙、闷烧，以及烟熏 等法餐经典技法。SKYE 的厨师都能娴熟运用这四项烹饪手法 来处理本地食材，创造出独一无二的风味佳肴，例如主厨特 制的味噌南瓜沙拉佐香料南瓜冰淇淋，以及烤法式猪肉肠搭 配烩田园蔬菜和蔬菜清汤。 Florian 表示：「在 SKYE 用餐的每位宾客，都该为他们 享用的美食引以为傲，因为他们知道这些食材是在香港生 产。这是对环境的尊重，同时也是对香港各地小企业与农 民的支持。」

时间蕴酿

spain meets jinglu

Premium olive oil and wine from Spain pair perfectly with the sophisticated Jinglu cuisine of Beijing’s Yue Rong Restaurant.

BY JOYCE KWOK PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEO LEE

OIL, ALONG WITH SALT, soy sauce, and vinegar, is foundational to Chinese cooking, especially to that intriguing mix of Beijing and Shandong cuisines known as Jinglu. “Jinglu cuisine mainly features braised dishes with scallions or leeks, such as braised sea cucumber with scallion,” says Jiang Zhenlu, head chef of Yue Rong. “These dishes require that the chef has truly mastered the ins and outs of controlling oil temperature.”

Jiang points out that different oils have different characteristics and that it is the chef’s job to match each type with its most appropriate use. He finds that Oleoestepa PDO Estepa extra virgin olive oil from Spain, one of the newest additions to the restaurant’s roster of essentials, is excellent for highlighting the inherent flavors of ingredients and also for enhancing

油盐酱醋，是中国饮食文化的基础调味。盐是 百味之首，油是百烹之基，能连结盘中食材， 在京鲁菜中的地位举足轻重。北京高级京鲁菜 餐厅悦融・ 琥珀的主厨蒋振禄介绍：「京鲁菜

的烹调方式多样，『葱烧』、『红焖』是较为常 用的技法，也善以葱香调味，就像名菜『葱烧 海参』，讲求的是师傅对油温的理解及掌握。」

蒋师傅指油就如食材，有不同的特性； 厨师要找出最佳配搭，借油还原食材本味。他 发现西班牙 Oleoestepa 奥莱奥原生原产地保

护认证（PDO）特级初榨橄榄油能提升海鲜、

Salad of thinly sliced marinated whelk with olive oil 橄榄油温拌脆爽海螺片

the aroma, luster, and umami of seafood and red meats. He regularly uses Oleoestepa in a wide range of dishes, from salad of sliced whelk to stir-fried vegetables and his pan-seared prime Australian Wagyu short ribs.

Oleoestepa starts with superior Spanish olives harvested in November and then cold-presses them to create an exceptional product with vibrantly verdant color and a bouquet reminiscent of a misty spring morning. Its elegantly refined style is ideal for salads and vegetables as well as for stir-fries, pan-fries, and shallot oil.

“Oleoestepa is quite distinct from the usual sesame or rapeseed oil we cook with,” says Chef Jiang. “When used for shallot oil, for example, the result is something incredibly fragrant, with layers of taste. And I haven’t even mentioned its antioxidant effects.”

One of Yue Rong’s favorites with diners is prime Australian Wagyu short ribs, which is first dry-aged before being sautéed in Oleoestepa olive oil to retain the meat’s juiciness. Although Maotai or another baijiu traditionally accompanies Jinglu cuisine, Jiang recommends pairing the dish with Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Gran Reserva 2012 from Spain. As a winery known for never hurrying its products to market, Marqués de Cáceres is willing to “exchange time for quality.” Its Rioja Gran Reserva 2012, for example, is matured for at least four years, and the wait is key to the wine’s smooth body and alluring ruby red color. Notes of blackberry, vanilla, and smoke contribute to a noble, velvety taste profile that makes it a perfect companion for sumptuous Yue Rong dishes like aged beef.

红肉类菜肴的香气，改变原料质感，增加菜肴的光 泽及鲜味。他用这款冷压初榨橄榄油烹煮橄榄油温 拌脆爽海螺片、熟成极佳级雪花牛肉、炒青菜等， 回响不俗。「我希望从细节出发，打动客人。」

这款初榨橄榄油用西班牙每年十一月份早收橄榄 青果冷榨而成，青翠透亮，闻起来有春天柳烟花雾 的气息，风格典雅细腻；不但能拌沙律、炒时蔬， 可煎可炒，更可以炼葱油。他赞叹说：「它有别于平 时用的芝麻、菜籽油，这款油炼的葱油更清香，层 次更丰富 还未说它的抗氧化功效呢。」

蒋师傅的熟成极佳级雪花牛肉经干式熟成处 理，并用这款西班牙初榨橄榄油煎香，锁住肉汁。 相较于京鲁菜传统所搭的茅台或白酒，餐厅准备了

2012 年西班牙卡塞里侯爵特级珍藏葡萄酒作为酒 配，让葡萄酒细化红肉的肌理纤维。酒庄的作风非 常值得欣赏：酒庄愿意「用时间换品质」，并不急于 把酿好的酒推出市场谋利，反而留在酒窖陈年多达 四年，让酒体更柔顺动人。这支红酒身带深邃迷人 的红色，在玻璃杯内像极一颗宝石；黑莓子、香草 及烟熏气息，以及天鹅绒似的口感，则让美酒更高 贵，不仅是商务宴会中的催化剂，与眼前的熟成牛 肉看来更像一对才子佳人。用陈酿红酒配搭熟成牛 肉，其实也藏有给当前世代的一点启示 在浮躁 的社会生活，请不忘适时放慢脚步，等待时间蕴酿 的美好。

Head Chef Jiang Zhenlu 主厨蒋振禄

Pan-seared prime Australian Wagyu short ribs served on hot stone 熟成极佳级雪花牛肉

qi is key 意气相投

Wolf’s state-of-the-art convection steam ovens help top Cantonese chefs create harmonious dishes in tune with a time-honored principle.

LITERALLY MEANING “steam” or “breath” and often translated as “vital energy,” qi is an idea that has its origins in Daoist philosophy. Although it is an abstract concept, one that lies at the heart of traditional Chinese medicine, qi in the context of cooking refers to an understanding of heat on the part of chefs and to their skill in precisely controlling it.

BY JOYCE KWOK • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

“In autumn, many guests order our warming and filling stews,” says Chinese Executive Chef Li Chi Wai of The Legacy House at Rosewood Hong Kong. “Qi is one of the keys to getting the flavor of each stew just right.” Citing his own version of Double-Boiled Eel as an example, Chef Li points out that “in a stew, the qi is what allows the ingredients to come together in harmony.”

Indeed, qi and Cantonese cuisine have long worked hand-in-hand. Delicious stir-fries as well as rice noodles should arrive at the table with abundant “wok qi.” When they are uncovered, clay pot dishes should have sufficient “steam qi.” And nourishing, hot stews offer up their health benefits through “transmission qi.”

Back in the ’70s and ’80s, Cantonese chefs would make stews in porcelain pots sealed with cotton gauze. Contemporary chefs have transitioned to purple clay slow cookers that have the advantage of being virtually nonporous and thereby sealing in flavors and aromas. Others who are in the lead, including Chef Li, have embraced even more modern equipment in their quest for culinary perfection.

Today, a convection steam oven from Wolf is one of Chef Li’s most trusted partners in the kitchen. It features a precise temperature sensor and reaches levels as high as 140°C. In prestigious kitchens like the one overseen by Li, chefs are always looking for ways to improve efficiency and speed. He points out that most traditional Chinese-style steamers reach temperatures of only 100°C, making Wolf’s convection steam oven “at least 30 percent faster.”

Over the past few years, Hong Kong has seen a reawakening of interest in dishes and recipes of old, most of which

Chinese Executive Chef Li Chi Wai 中菜行政总厨李志伟

require an intensive investment of time and effort. And Chef Li’s Double-Boiled Eel Supreme Soup, a classic of Chaozhou, is no exception. The Pearl River eel has to be thoroughly deboned before being stuffed with minced pork, mushrooms, Chinese celery, and bamboo shoots and then carefully wrapped in a pickled leaf. Because such steamed and stewed dishes are traditionally less oily and better retain the nutrients of ingredients, it’s not surprising that they’ve had a resurgence of popularity among modern-day health-conscious diners.

High-level cuisine like Double-Boiled Eel Supreme Soup requires equipment of equal caliber, and Li finds that the Wolf oven is crucial to the recipe’s success. “With my convection steam oven, the pickled leaves release their flavor faster, and the eel meat becomes more uniformly tender.”

Chef Li considers the Wolf convection steam oven “a dream come true” for chefs and home cooks everywhere. “In addition to being wall mountable to save space, it’s a great time-saving addition that gives twice the results in half the time.”

「气」这个源于道家的概念骤听抽象，然而引伸至烹饪层面，指的无非是厨 师对火候、温度的理解及驾驭能力。

「尤其秋冬时需为客人做出温暖舒心的炖汤炖菜，『气』就成了美味的 关键。」香港瑰丽酒店中菜厅「彤福轩」中菜行政总厨李志伟随即用他的招 牌入冬手工炖菜「胡椒荷包鳝」作为例子：「有别于『蒸』，唯有『炖』产生 的『气』才能让食材互相赋味，和成一味。」

事实上，「气」与「粤菜」从来都是焦孟不离的两个概念：美味的小炒、 粉面饭，上桌后需透着很好的「镬气」；煲仔菜掀盖时要看得见「烟气」；滋 补炖汤更讲求「传气」，要熬得极鲜、极烫口。

回想昔日七、八十年代，粤菜厨师每逢做炖菜、炖汤，一般都会用棉 纱纸把瓷锅封边，留住锅内的气。不过随着时代进步，客人对酒店中菜厅的 期望愈来愈高，有的主厨改用紫砂炖锅，取其密度高的优点，使炖品香气不 涣散，尽得食材的真香真味；有的更从蒸炖装置着手。李师傅便属后者。

Wolf 的王牌「对流式蒸焗炉」是李师傅最能信赖的伙伴。「对流式蒸焗 炉」不但有精准的温度感应器，更可以把温度精准调至摄氏 140 度。可知餐

厅厨房犹如战场，争分夺秒，主厨必须不断想办法提升厨房的效率与速度。

李师傅指出，一般厨房内的中式蒸柜就只能将炉内温度加热至摄氏 100 度， 「现在就节省了三分之一的时间！」

这几年，香港粤菜界掀起了复刻风，主厨都往「古菜」方向钻研，唯古 菜的共通特色是花时费工；而属潮州古菜的「荷包鳝」，厨师在备料阶段便 需仔细将珠江鳝腩起骨、用客家咸菜包酿鳝、猪五花肉、笋粒、蒜子等。这 类蒸、炖类型的菜式少油健康，能保留食材的营养，颇符合现代人的饮食倾向。 李师傅一直努力寻找性能卓越的设备，协助做出像「荷包鳝」的精致 菜肴。他欣然赞道：「有了这个 Wolf 蒸焗炉，炖菜中的咸菜更快出味，白鳝

李师傅亦打趣比喻，指它应是不少爱下厨之人的「梦逸品」。「除了能入墙 省位，每逢过节在家设宴，它都能够帮助你更好利用时间，事半功倍！」

肉也更腍滑松化。」

The Wolf convection steam oven is an essential part of Chef Li Chi Wai’s kitchen. Wolf 的「对流式蒸焗炉」是李师傅的厨房中不可或缺的伙伴。

Double-Boiled Eel, Ham, Mushroom, White Pepper, Supreme Broth

胡椒荷包鳝

magic on the go

With its signature cocktail Travel Kits, DarkSide at ROSEWOOD HONG KONG lets those on the move experience the bar’s beguiling allure wherever they are.

BY LUCY JENKINS

BY DAVID HARTUNG

PHOTOGRAPHY

我们希望宾客能在旅 途中体验我们最喜爱 的鸡尾酒，徜徉在 瑰丽的魅力中。

“We wanted our guests to experience our favorite cocktails – and the magic of Rosewood – on the go.”

”

Simone Rossi

The Plum is made with Grey Goose Vodka, Mancino Secco Vermouth, calendula cordial, and salted plum. 清雅的「梅」由灰雁伏特加、Mancino Secco苦艾酒、 金盏花甘露酒和话梅制成。

The Spring cocktail uses Star of Bombay Gin complemented by the fresh seasonal flavors of tangerine and longan. 「春」使用庞贝之星琴酒调制而成， 搭配新鲜的当季柑橘与龙眼香气，春意盎然。

PRESENTED BY BACARDI

REIMAGINING THREE OF ITS CLASSICS, ROSEWOOD HONG KONG ’s sophisticated jazz and cocktail bar DarkSide has launched each one in a 50-milliliter format, allowing travelers to enjoy them in-flight or while away on business or leisure trips. “Now that everyone can travel again,” says ROSEWOOD HONG KONG Director of Bars Simone Rossi, “we wanted our guests to experience our favorite cocktails – and the magic of ROSEWOOD HONG KONG –on the go.”

To create the iconic drinks, Rossi collaborated with Bacardi Limited, the world’s largest privately held spirits company, in featuring a range of its premium brands: the Rosewood Martini is made with Grey Goose Vodka, the old-fashioned with Royal Brackla Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, and the negroni with Bombay Sapphire Gin. “We see a trend of guests wanting to return to classic cocktails without too many ingredients or complicated methods,” Rossi explains. “Bacardi’s Royal Brackla takes the place of traditional bourbon whisky used in an old-fashioned, and its oak notes add a hint of sweet vanilla flavor to the cocktail.”

DarkSide also highlights Bacardi labels in its new menu that is reinterpreted with a theme based on the classic Hong Kong game of mahjong. It is presented in an elegant case of tiles representing cocktails named for Confucian plants and seasons: Plum, Orchid, Bamboo, Chrysanthemum, Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter.

The Plum, Rossi’s take on a traditional martini, is made with Grey Goose Vodka, Mancino Secco Vermouth, calendula cordial, and salted plum. It is served in a rice wine terracotta pot and poured into an elegant ceramic martini glass. Grey Goose’s linear notes of lemon and black pepper are a sophisticated base for the drink, imbuing it with a clean, polished profile.

The Spring, presented as a twist on a gin highball, is made with Star of Bombay Gin and uses the fresh seasonal flavors of tangerine and longan, along with Amaro Santoni liqueur with rhubarb and white peach with jasmine soda. Star of Bombay is distinguished from Bombay Sapphire in that it contains two additional ingredients, bergamot orange and ambrette seeds, as well as a slightly different-flavored juniper. Its lighter style and fresh citrus notes lend themselves to this zesty cocktail.

In creating the mahjong set, DarkSide worked with local artists and Mahjong tile-makers Masters. Master Ricky Cheung and Karen Aruba Art were commissioned for the tiles, while glass-blowing workshop Soekjing Studio designed the glassware and Tung Yao Ceramics Design Studio, celebrated for producing intricate Chinese pottery, created the delicate ceramics.

The Travel Kits, available at ROSEWOOD HONG KONG’s online store and at Butterfly Patisserie, are priced at hkd298 each or hkd688 for all three.

Royal Brackla 12 Year Old Single Malt Whisky 皇家柏克莱12年单一麦芽威士忌

香港瑰丽酒店高雅的爵士酒吧 DarkSide，重新诠释并推出三款经 典鸡尾酒，五十毫升的容量让旅人在飞航途中或在商务及休闲旅 途中，均可尽情享受风味调酒。香港瑰丽酒店酒吧总监 Simone Rossi 表示：「现在大家都能重启出游计画，我们希望宾客能在旅 途中体验我们最喜爱的鸡尾酒，徜徉在瑰丽酒店的魅力中。」

Simone 与全球闻名的私营烈酒公司百加得合作，使用品牌 旗下的系列优质烈酒，打造这几款特色调酒。Rosewood Martini 以灰雁伏特加调制而成；The Old-fashioned 以皇家柏克莱的单一 麦芽威士忌为基底；Negroni 则用了庞贝蓝钻琴酒调制。Simone 解释：「我们发现宾客希望能重新品味经典的鸡尾酒，不希望杯中 有太多成份或使用复杂的调酒方式。我们用百加得的皇家柏克莱 取代传统版本使用的波本威士忌，当中的橡木味为鸡尾酒增添了 甜美的香草调性。」

DarkSide 还在新推出、以麻雀为主题的鸡尾酒酒单中选用百 加得的品牌烈酒。八只以「花中四君子」和四个季节命名的麻雀： 梅、兰、竹、菊、春、夏、秋、冬，承装在优雅的礼盒中，分别 象征着八款全新鸡尾酒。

其中的「梅」是 Simone 对传统马丁尼调酒的独到诠释，由 灰雁伏特加、Mancino Secco 苦艾酒、金盏花甘露酒和话梅调制 而成。Simone 选用米酒陶罐来承装「梅」调酒，随后把调酒倒 入一只优雅的陶瓷马丁尼杯中。灰雁伏特加的柠檬与黑胡椒风味 成为「梅」的优雅基底，让酒尝起来更干净俐落。

「春」则是琴酒 Highball 的崭新演绎，用庞贝之星琴酒糅合 柑橘与龙眼的当季风味，搭配带有大黄香气的 Amaro Santoni 意 大利苦酒和白桃风味的茉莉花苏打。庞贝之星琴酒与庞贝蓝钻琴 酒的区别在于它含有香柠檬和黄葵种子两种额外成分，以及用了 另一种方式调味的杜松为原料之一。这款琴酒的风味相对轻盈， 当中新鲜的柑橘味也更适合「春」这款充满朝气的鸡尾酒。

DarkSide 亦与当地艺术家和麻雀工匠大师合作，共同创作这 个麻雀系列。手雕麻雀工匠张诚忠师傅和 Karen Aruba Art 特别 制作了麻雀花牌，而玻璃工艺烁凝工作室负责设计玻璃杯，以生 产精细陶器闻名的香港童窑陶瓷设计工作室则制作了精致的陶瓷 器皿。

鸡尾酒套装于瑰丽酒店的线上商店与 Butterfly Patisserie 皆有贩 售，每款售价为 298 港币，一套三款售价为 688 港币。

举杯畅饮

celebrating with sekt

As holiday gifts or the highlight of any festive occasion, premium sparkling wines from Austria make the Christmas season merry.

Müller-Grossmann 酒庄位于奥地利葡萄酒产区克雷

姆斯谷，酒庄老板 Marlies Hanke 表示：「想到庆祝

活动，大家就会想到独一无二的 Sekt 气泡酒。对我

们来说，从装饰圣诞树那刻开始，Sekt 就不可或缺了。」

享用圣诞大餐时，Sekt 气泡酒是理想首选。

Stift Klosterneuburg 酒庄的庄园分布在维也纳、瓦

格拉姆与温泉区等葡萄酒产区，酒庄营运总监 Wolfgang Hamm 指出：「优质葡萄酒与美味佳肴永 远是最佳良伴。我在享用晚餐时最喜欢搭配 Sekt， 它跟海鲜尤其相配。」 Marlies 补充道：「我喜欢将 Sekt 当成开胃酒， 搭配各种小食，并在晚餐尾声用 Sekt 重新唤醒味蕾。」

也许很多人并不熟悉 Sekt，但这种备受赞誉的 奥地利气泡酒，其实与 Crémant 和 Champagne 这 两种气泡酒并驾齐驱。两种最高等级的奥地利 PDO Sekt 分别是 Reserve 和 Große Reserve。这两款气 泡酒跟法国的 Champagne 一样，采用瓶内发酵的传

统工法酿造，而级别较低的 Sekt Austria（PDO）也 可像意大利气泡酒 Prosecco 一样，采罐内发酵的大 槽法来制作。

奥地利葡萄酒种植者在 2015 年制定出 Sekt Austria（PDO）金字塔，向消费者证明其葡萄酒的品 质。各层级包括了具体的品质保证标准，比方说葡萄 园的种植方法、收成条件、压榨技术和最低熟成期。

“PEOPLE CONNECT SEKT with celebrations – it’s something special,” says Marlies Hanke, owner of Weingut Müller-Grossmann in Austria’s Kremstal wine region. “For us, it’s an important part of Christmas – starting with decorating the tree.”

And when it’s time for Christmas dinner, Sekt is ideal: “Great wines are destined for great food,” says Managing Director Wolfgang Hamm of Stift Klosterneuburg in the Vienna, Wagram, and Thermenregion wine regions. “I enjoy Sekt throughout the whole dinner, particularly with seafood.”

Adds Hanke, “I love Sekt as an aperitif and for pairing with all kinds of finger food, and at the end of a nice meal to freshen the palate.”

While unfamiliar to many, Sekt is Austria’s acclaimed answer to Crémant and Champagne. The two highest categories of Austria PDO Sekt, Reserve and Große Reserve, are made by the same bottle-fermented méthode traditionelle as their French cousins, while the lower tier, Sekt Austria (PDO), may also be made, like Prosecco, by the tank-fermented Charmat process.

Austria’s winegrowers introduced the Sekt Austria ( PDO ) Pyramid in 2015 to certify quality to consumers. The individual

「酵母接触是 Sekt 气泡酒品质的关键。」凯普谷

葡萄酒产区 Johann Topf 酒庄的 Hans Peter Topf 表示： 「所以我们唯一的生产方式是瓶内发酵。这款酒基本 上是在大橡木桶中发酵，并在酒槽中存放一年，得到 完美的特酿后，再进一步进行瓶内发酵。」

奥地利葡萄酒的特色，是能如实反映酒的来源 与当地风土，Sekt 也不例外。Wolfgang 表示：「奥地 利葡萄酒的特色是凉爽的气候、精细地种植的果实， 以及含有大量矿物质的钙质土壤。这些元素能让我们 酿造出具有清新奥地利风味的世界级气泡酒。我个人 私心最爱的是白中白气泡酒，所以我们的 Sekt 主要 使用霞多丽和奥地利的绿菲特丽娜葡萄来酿造。」

Hans Peter 补充说：「奥地利气泡酒的种类相当

多样。当地酿酒师能用四十种不同的葡萄品种来酿 酒，制造商也遍布奥地利的葡萄酒产区。」

圣诞氛围越来越浓厚，Sekt 就成为了最受欢迎

的赠礼选择。Wolfgang 指出：「一瓶奥地利的气泡酒，

证明了送礼者为特别的人挑选了特别的礼物，而不是 随便选一瓶香槟。一杯奥地利 Sekt 就是让生活变得 更美好的馈赠。」

A gift of Austrian Sekt adds a special sparkle to the holidays. 奥地利Sekt为庆典活动增添节日气氛。

categories encompass specific quality-assurance standards, including vineyard cultivation methods, harvesting conditions, pressing techniques, and minimum maturation periods.

“Yeast contact is the key to quality in Sekt,” says Hans Peter Topf of Weingut Johann Topf in the Kamptal wine region. “So the only production method we use is bottle fermentation. The cuvée is basically fermented in big oak barrels, and after one year on the lees, we get a perfect cuvée for further bottle fermentation.”

Austrian wines are well-known for faithfully reflecting their origins, and Sekt is no exception. “The distinctive traits of Austrian wines are cool climate, precise fruit, and calcerous soils of great minerality,” says Hamm. “These enable us to produce world-class sparkling wines with a clear Austrian handwriting. My heart beats for blanc de blanc sparkling wines, so we mainly use chardonnay and our great Austrian grüner veltliner for our Sekts.”

“The diversity of Austrian sparkling wines is immense,” adds Topf. “Local winemakers can use forty different grape varieties, and producers are spread all over Austria’s wine regions.”

With the Christmas spirit in the air, Sekt makes an always-welcome gift. “A bottle of Austrian sparkling wine shows that the giver chose something special for a special person and not the usual bottle of Champagne,” says Hamm.

“A glass of Austrian Sekt is one of those many gifts that make life even more beautiful.”

“Sekt is one of the most delicious ways to celebrate life!

一杯奥地利Sekt就是让生活 变得更美好的馈赠。”

Wolfgang Hamm

Michael Malik 马雷

再造非凡

greater in china

Marriott International, one of the world’s leading hotel groups, continues to expand across China, with its focus squarely on F&B excellence. Recently, Michael Malik, senior vice president - operations Greater China at Marriott International, took time to talk to TK’s Tracy On about his company’s forward-looking approach to food and beverage operations and its growing emphasis on local markets. § 国际知名酒店 集团品牌万豪国际，持续扩展在中国市场的版图，提升餐饮运营。万豪国际集团大中华区高级营运 副总裁马雷（Michael Malik）与TK分享万豪国际对餐饮事业的展望，以及对深耕本地韵味的重视。

In 2022, Marriott International had a remarkable total of twentyfive restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide in Greater China and six honored with Black Pearl Diamonds. How do you achieve that kind of success?

If you look at our history, F&B is a very important part of our business. Our company started in 1927 in F&B when Mr. Marriott opened a nine-seat A&W root beer stand in the US. Today in China, with twelve hundred restaurants and bars operating in a hundred and twenty cities, F&B makes up 40 percent of our total revenue in Greater China, and we’re catering to the needs of many, many different kinds of customers.

How do you manage to satisfy so many different kinds of customers across China?

TK attended our Taste of Wonders event at the The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong, and that was kind of the overarching message to our customers: Let us surprise you, we offer many different unique cuisines by leveraging the strong portfolio of our restaurants and bars.

Throughout China, we really have two strategies. One is that we are building specific reputable restaurant brands – Marriott’s is Man Ho and Sheraton’s is Yue – with very standardized messaging to the market. The other strategy is to have stand-alone restaurants and bars that offer unique dining experiences. At The Shanghai EDITION, for example, we’re catering to a very different luxury customer, and the F&B is programmed for, say, Generation Z. So there our Chinese restaurant – we call it Canton Disco – has traditional Cantonese tastes but presented in a very modern way, a very modern setting. The aesthetics of the restaurant are very important. This generation wants to be part of the surroundings and not only enjoy the food but also the restaurant’s beautiful design and architecture. The design elements, ambience, and food quality are all very important, but we also stand out for our service.

2022 年，万豪国际旗下共有 25 家位于中国的 餐厅荣登米其林指南榜单，6 家餐厅获得黑珍 珠餐厅指南的殊荣。要达成这个成就，有什 么秘诀吗？ 餐饮一直都是我们相当重视的一环。1927 年，Marriott 先生在美国开了一间 A ＆ W 根汁 啤酒小店，店内仅九个席位，那就是万豪国际起 始的根源。万豪国际现今在中国近 120 个城市经 营 1200 多家餐厅和酒吧，餐饮占大中华区收入 的 40%。我们致力发展餐饮运营，以满足各地 饕客的要求。

您是如何兼顾大中华区如此多元的需求？ TK 也有参与我们在上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒 店举办的「万味奇遇」系列餐饮活动。我们想给 顾客传递一种「包罗万象」的餐饮形象，正好跟 这场活动的精神不谋而合：万豪国际旗下的餐厅 和酒吧，将带给您万千风味。让我们给您惊喜， 带您开启舌尖奇旅。

针对中国市场，万豪有两大经营策略。其一， 是打造万豪经典餐饮品牌，像是「万豪中餐厅」 和喜来登的「采悦轩」，提供统一优质的餐饮服 务，致力于满足各种挑剔的味蕾。其二，是发展 各具特色的餐厅和酒吧。举例来说，上海艾迪逊 酒店的粤菜餐厅「粤味」针对 Z 世代年轻人来设 计，以现代风格和手法诠释传统广东菜，打造不 一样的餐饮体验。餐厅的装潢也是一大要点。这 一代人不仅要享受美食，还要享受餐厅的设计和 环境。设计元素、氛围和食物质量都非常重要， 而周到细致的服务也不能缺少。

“We love chefs with personality. We look for passion – a chef without passion would not be running a great restaurant.

我们喜欢个人色彩鲜明的厨师。厨师一定要有热忱，

只有有热忱的厨师，才能成就一家好餐厅。”

Michael Malik

For Chinese people, food is more than just food – it also involves the cultural aspects of many different regions. How does Marriott go about respecting this diversity?

Our strategy is really to go local, to find the best of that location. Even in Sichuan, it could vary from city to city, because some of the smaller ones have very different nuances. To be locally relevant in the market we’re operating in is very important. We conduct proper research to make sure that the restaurant is in tune with the market. Our strategy is to cater to the local customer and also to the trends, to find what a market’s needs are and to be the best in that market.

Any restaurant’s chef, of course, plays an important role. What are your criteria in choosing them?

For me, the chefs in our hotels are stars. Everybody who goes to a restaurant, especially a very popular restaurant, wants to see the chef. We love chefs with personality. We look for passion – a chef without passion would not be running a great restaurant. Innovation, creativity, we love chefs who are constantly challenging themselves.

We want our chefs to look for authenticity in what they do, and they need to be driven to improve their skills. It’s important that a chef can become a good manager, because they need to be able to lead a very large team and also be able to inspire. Whatever greatness the chef has, they need to transfer that to their team and make sure that they grow their people.

Including in the area of sustainability?

It’s a key topic for our company. For example, we’re using artificial intelligence and big data to track, control, and reduce our food waste. From inventory to consumption, we’ve introduced a new system across twenty-nine hotels to implement innovative solutions for reducing our food waste, and the program will be rolling out to more hotels. This is something that’s quite exciting for us – it’s all about changing habits.

Canton Disco, The Shanghai EDITION

粤味中餐厅

Boiled marbled beef with pickle Man Ho, Marriott Nanjing

South Hotel

手冲酸汤雪花牛肉

南京景枫万豪酒店万豪中餐厅

对华人而言，食物不只是食物，也象征着各个 地区的文化特色。请问万豪国际是如何兼顾餐 饮文化的多元性？

我们以深耕本地风味为目标，致力于呈现地 方特色美食。以川菜来说，四川每个城市的料理 特色也各自迥异，由此可见中国菜的精妙。与运 营城市连结起来也很重要，我们会进行研究和调 查，确保餐厅与市场的步调一致。我们的策略是 迎合当地消费者和市场趋势，捕捉市场需求并成 为当中的佼佼者。

对每一间餐厅而言，厨师都扮演着重要的角色。 您对于厨师有何要求或期许？ 我认为厨师是酒店里的大明星。大家到餐厅 吃饭，特别是有名的餐厅，都想跟大厨见上一面。 我们喜欢个人色彩鲜明的厨师。厨师一定要有热 忱，只有有热忱的厨师，才能成就一家好餐厅。 我们喜欢有创意、勇于创新和挑战自我的厨师。 我们希望我们的厨师在平时的工作中要勇 于追求创新，并且愿意主动提升他们的技能。一 名厨师同时也需要是一名优秀的管理者，因为他 们需要领导庞大的团队，还要激发团队成员的灵 感，善用他们的长处，引领和培育大家一起成长。

可否分享集团的可持续性发展？ 可持续性发展也是万豪国际相当重视的课 题。在中国，我们正在使用人工智能和大数据来 跟踪、控制和减少食物浪费。我们在 29 家酒店 引入了一个新系统，以实施创新解决方案，从库 存到消费，帮助我们减少食物浪费。该计划将推 广到更多的酒店。面对随之而来的转变，我们都 感到相当兴奋与期待。

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Shanghainese braised pork, abalone, sweet soy sauce Su Yan, W Suzhou

江南鲍鱼红烧肉

苏州W酒店苏滟中餐厅

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Jin Xuan, The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong

金轩中餐厅

Fern Farms grass-fed meat is a delicious and sustainable celebration of New Zealand’s spectacular landscape.

FAMED FOR ITS MAGNIFICENT SCENERY, New Zealand is blessed with verdant fields bounded by towering peaks and shimmering coastlines. The country’s fertile soil and abundance of clean water and fresh air hold the secret to perfect pasture for raising livestock, with limitless space for ruminant animals to roam free and plenty of nature’s ideal diet of lush green grass. The lush grass is full of nutrition year-round for a range of free-roaming grazing animals, including cattle, sheep and deer, enabling their strong and healthy growth.

In recent years, global consumers have become more interested in the provenance of the meats they buy and eat, and questions about the environmental impact of its production have led to increased demands for high-welfare, grass-fed beef, lamb, and venison. Along with leading chefs from top-tier restaurants who are insisting on better farming practices and higher-quality meats, home cooks also are becoming mindful of the importance of respecting nature and investing in sustainable products.

Also in the forefront are the clear health benefits of making environmentally friendly choices. Grass-fed beef is packed with protein and iron

新西兰以壮丽的风景闻名于世，高耸的山峰与 波光粼粼的海岸线围绕着青翠的田野。当地肥 沃的土壤、丰沛的纯净水源与清新空气，是饲 养牲畜的理想条件；辽阔的牧场能让动物自由 漫步，草地上还有来自大自然的丰富食物，也 就是郁郁葱葱的青草。这些营养丰富的青草为 牛、羊和鹿等草饲动物提供了全年的食物，动 物因此长得强壮而又健康。

近年来，全球消费者都越加关注自己购 买和食用的肉品来源；生产肉品对环境造成的 影响引起消费者的重视，以注重动物福祉的方 式养成的草饲牛肉、羊肉与鹿肉因此日渐受到 消费者的青睐。顶级餐厅的主厨坚持使用饲养 方式更友善、品质更优的肉类，家庭厨师也开 始注意到尊重自然与购买永续产品的重要性。

选择对环境有利的肉品对健康也相当有 益。草饲牛肉富含蛋白质与铁，与谷饲牛肉比

naturally flavorful

→

New Zealand is one of the few places in the world where grass-based farming can reach its true potential.

新西兰是全球为数不多能够真正 实现草饲牧场价值的国度。

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Nutritious grass is the ideal diet for cattle, yielding clean, complex, beautifully marbled beef that is superior in flavor and texture to that produced by grain feeding. 营养丰富的牧草饮食，使牛肉带有大 理石花纹，且风味纯正、细嫩，其

风味和质地远优于谷饲的牛肉。

The verdant Wairarapa hills provide top-quality pasture for the Wyeth family’s sheep and cattle. Fresh air and clean, flowing water make this the ideal environment for grazing animals.

怀拉拉帕山丘的空气清新，水源丰 沛，是放牧动物的理想生长之地。

Wyeth家族在此放牧牛羊，让它们 在碧绿辽阔的草原上恣意生活。

and is leaner in comparison to grain-fed, with lower levels of saturated fat and higher quantities of omega-3s and vitamins A and E.

New Zealand’s Silver Fern Farms’ purpose is to create goodness from the farms the world needs. This means working closely with the farmers who supply the cattle, sheep, and deer, as well as continually implementing sustainable practices and searching for new ways to do even better. In 2021, Silver Fern Farms achieved Toitū enviromark diamond certification, the highest New Zealand-based environmental certification.

Environmental measures taken by the company’s farmers include implementing grazing rotation, supporting biodiversity by planting native trees, and rewilding areas less suitable for pasture. All of these initiatives contribute to the quality of the soil and to the production of more nourishing grass for the animals they raise.

Silver Fern Farms’ Select Partnership Chef Greg Piner has seen a big change in New Zealand customers’ dining habits: “People have become more aware of the impact of what they are eating and how it affects the environment. This has placed enormous emphasis on what’s ordered in

起来，饱和脂肪含量更低，omega-3 脂肪酸 与维生素 A 及 E 的含量则更高。

新西兰银蕨农场的企业宗旨是打造世界 所需要的农场，创造人们所渴望的美好。他们 与供应牛、羊和鹿的农场主密切合作，持续采 用永续操作，不断寻找更创新和理想的方式 来提供肉品。2021 年，银蕨农场获得了新西 兰本土最高环保认证 ——Toitū 环保钻石标志

（Toitū Enviromark Diamond Certification）。 银蕨农场的农场主采取的环保措施包括 轮流放牧、种植本地植物来提升生态多样性， 以及让不适合放牧的区域重新野化。上述举措 都有助于提升土壤品质，让饲养的动物有更多 更好的营养牧草可以食用。

银蕨农场甄选名厨 Greg Piner 意识到， 近年来新西兰人的用餐习惯发生了变化。「大 家会更希望了解他们所吃的食物会对环境造成

our kitchen and on building relationships with our suppliers. I’ve seen a massive shift towards sustainable practices.”

Piner loves making use of wood grills, which remind him of childhood barbecues and the pleasure of hosting guests. “My philosophy is to make the hero of the dish sing,” he says. “I keep it simple, and that means I need a really high-quality product.” After working with Silver Fern Farms meats for more than a decade, Piner has developed great confidence in their range of products. “They’re always consistent,” he says. “The environment plays a huge part in the overall taste, and New Zealand is leading the way in sustainable practices. I’ve personally visited the farms and seen firsthand the care and the passion from the people who provide what I believe is the best grass-fed meat in the world.”

To add special appeal to his dishes, Piner takes inspiration from a variety of international flavors and cooking techniques. One favorite is a delicate venison dish of freshly seared loin, whose natural buttery notes are highlighted by a bright citrus and ponzu dressing. “I was inspired by the clean, pure flavors of Japanese cuisine,” says Piner. “This dish is a perfect combination of East Asian influences with New Zealand quality meat. Guests regularly compliment this dish on its freshness, simplicity, and sophistication. Once people try it, they always come back – and repeat business is the key to any restaurant’s success.”

Trips to Shanghai introduced Piner to the classic technique of slow-cooking meat. “I came away from my travels with a slow-cooked beef short rib that’s prepared with lime leaf, star anise, and coriander,” he says. “The cooking liquor is reduced to a glaze and used to sauce the short rib.” The dish is finished with roasted cashews and freeze-dried mandarin, a touch

什么影响。这一趋势对于食材采购产生重大影响，我们与供应商之间的关系也因此 而变得不同。永续实践如今蔚为风潮。」

Greg 喜欢用木头来烤肉，因为这让他想起童年的烤肉时光与招待客人的乐趣。 他说：「我的烹饪理念是突出料理的主角。我尽量让料理保持简单，这意味着我需 要真正高品质的食材。」Greg 十多年来都使用银蕨农场的肉品，对他们的产品非常 有信心。他说：「他们的品质相当稳定一致。产品风味会反映出其生长的自然环境， 新西兰在永续方面一直处于领先地位。我亲自去过当地农场，感受到农场主为提供 在我看来世上数一数二的草饲红肉，所持有的关怀和热情。」

为了让料理更扣人心弦，Greg 从各国风味与烹饪技巧中汲取灵感。他其中一 道广受欢迎的菜式是精致的鹿肉。这道菜式使用现烤腰脊肉，其天然浓郁香味在轻 盈的柑橘柚子酱烘托之下更加鲜明。Greg 表示：「我的灵感来自日本料理那种干净、 纯粹的风味。这道菜完美结合东亚风格与新西兰的顶级肉品。宾客经常赞美这道菜 的食材虽然简单，但看起来精致，吃起来新鲜。品尝过这道菜的宾客往往成为回头客， 而这是一间餐厅成功的关键。」

一次上海之行让 Greg 学到慢炖肉品的经典技法。他说：「我在旅程中学到一

Silver Fern Farms’ Select Partnership Chef 银蕨农场甄选名厨 Greg Piner

Greg

Shanghai cooking techniques are the inspiration for this enticing, slow-cooked short rib of Silver Fern Farms beef. The long cooking time reveals its amazing, melt-inthe-mouth tenderness.

上海的经典烹饪技艺是这道诱人的慢炖牛小 排的灵感来源。漫长的炖煮时间使它入口即 化，令人惊叹。

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The natural buttery notes of Silver Fern Farms venison are a perfect match for subtle East Asian flavors. Here, seared venison loin is teamed with a Japanese influence, citrusy ponzu dressing. Its bright aromas highlight the freshness and delicacy of the meat, making it the irresistible hero of the dish.

在这道烤鹿腰脊肉中，鹿肉的天然浓郁香味 与微妙的东亚风味完美结合。充满日本风味 的柑橘柚子酱清香明亮，突出了鹿肉的新鲜 和精致，是这道菜的点睛之笔。

based on Piner’s memory of meals enjoyed in Shanghai that ended with the palate-cleansing feeling that oranges bring.

“The short rib has amazing textures when it’s cooked this long, and it just melts in your mouth,” he says. “It’s also visually appealing and a real showstopper if left on the bone. The play on sweet and sour and the proper use of pepper and salt makes eating this dish a well-balanced dining experience.”

While varying culinary techniques and experimenting with flavor profiles can add excitement to any recipe, in Piner’s opinion, there’s one strict rule that ensures a dish will be exceptional: “The most important thing I’ve found over the years is the quality of ingredients – it makes a massive impact on the end result. What I like best about Silver Fern Farms is the respect its farmers have for their products. I know firsthand the dedication of our farms to making a difference and setting new benchmarks for our customers.”

种用青柠叶、八角与香菜烹制的慢炖牛小排。炖煮的酱 汁收干后包覆着牛小排，带来浓郁的风味与色泽。」这道 菜以烤腰果与冷冻干燥的柑橘作结，这是来自 Greg 在上 海用餐时的记忆，当时他品尝的料理以柑橘的清新感收 尾，让味蕾重新净化，使他印象深刻。

他说：「炖煮一段长时间后，牛小排的口感相当惊人， 入口即化。如果肉还留在骨头上，视觉效果也相当突出。 酸甜滋味的搭配，并以适量胡椒和盐调味，让宾客在品 尝这道菜时感受到完美的平衡。」

虽然不同的烹饪技术与风味实验能替料理增色，但 在 Greg 看来，有一项黄金准则始终是料理品质的保证： 「最重要的是食材的品质，这对料理的最终呈现有着极大 的影响。我最喜欢银蕨农场的一点，是他们的农场主对 产品的敬畏。我亲自了解过他们对提供优质肉品的关注 和投入，这也成为了我们招待宾客的新典范。」

“The environment plays a huge part in the overall taste, and New Zealand is leading the way in sustainable practices.

产品风味会反映出其生长的 自然环境，新西兰在永续 方面一直处于领先地位。”

Piner

此时此刻

FOR THE LAST THREE DECADES, The Sanctuary resort and spa, renowned for its detox, yoga, and wellness facilities, has been providing respite and clarity to travelers wanting to spend quality time with themselves. Tucked away on Haad Tien beach on Koh Phangan, the Thai island best known for its hedonistic full-moon parties, The Sanctuary is a place that singles, couples, and groups come to for rest and recharging of body and soul. It lies on a stretch of unspoiled shoreline, built on energizing granite quartz rock and surrounded by century-old trees that are reputed to have healing qualities.

A small community of friends creates a glamorous refuge in paradise – The Sanctuary Thailand spa resort on Koh Phangan island.

The Sanctuary began life as a secret refuge in a hidden corner of Southeast Asia, where friends would gather to take a break from touring the region. The initial aim was for people to connect, share experiences, and relax in the natural beauty of the surroundings. That idea remains today, albeit on a grander scale. Informal information exchanges have evolved into high-level teaching, with immersive yoga courses from which students can graduate with professional qualifications. The accommodations have evolved too, but there are still dormitory rooms for guests seeking a pocketbook-friendly option. At the higher end of the price range, traditional Thai houses offer both luxury and privacy.

One early visitor to The Sanctuary was Michael Doyle, who began his journey as a guest in the early ’90s and eventually became CEO in 1998. Doyle has now handed operations over to General Manager Nolan Dalby. Together, they navigated the choppy waters of the pandemic and brought The Sanctuary into the rejuvenated travel era, with customers intrigued by and open to the travel wellness experience.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HAMMONS

过去三十年来，以排毒、瑜珈和 康体设施闻名的 The Sanctuary 度 假村暨水疗中心，持续为旅人提 供喘息与焕活身心的空间，让他 们有机会花时间与自己独处。The Sanctuary 位于泰国帕岸岛的哈天海滩，这座岛屿以狂欢享乐 的满月派对闻名，是单身人士、情侣和团体前来休息，并且 替身心灵充电的好去处。度假村座落在一片未受破坏的海岸 线上，立基于充满能量的花岗石英岩上，周遭环绕的百年古 树据说具有疗愈作用。

The Sanctuary 最初是东南亚一个隐蔽角落里的秘境， 让一众好友聚会，并在附近游览后放松休息。这个地方最初 的目的是让人互动连结、分享经验，并在自然美景环绕下舒 缓充电。这个概念至今依然没有改变，但服务规模却比以往 更加宏大。随性的交流进化成高水准的教学课程，报读沉浸 式瑜伽课程的学生在完成课程后可取得专业资格。这里的住 宿条件也不断改善，有预算考量的旅客可选择宿舍式的房间， 传统泰式房屋则价格较高，但拥有更奢华的休憩空间与更隐 密的居住环境。

be here now

Michael Doyle

“My earliest memory of The Sanctuary was when I was studying tai chi in Haad Rin in the ’90s,” says Doyle. “Someone said let’s go to the opening party, so we met in the morning and walked over the mountain and down to the beach next door. There were about twenty of us – we all just ripped off our clothes, ran into the sea, and swam and hung out. As the sun was setting, we walked over the headland through the jungle. I’ll always remember walking through there and feeling myself walking through kind of a membrane. Something had changed.”

Over several years, a small group of friends worked with some local craftspeople to build the Buddha Hall, a gathering space for teaching and learning. Its remote location made it difficult to find, so for a while, The Sanctuary remained principally a word-of-mouth destination, visited by friends of friends. But its reputation spread and soon the secret was out. Increasing numbers of travelers began to make their way by boat or by hiking over the mountain to discover a beautiful, peaceful destination.

During the ’90s, Doyle was working a high-pressure job in medical services, traveling around the region setting up cardiac units in hospitals. His job was physically and mentally demanding and could be stressful. “I was involved with open heart surgeries – I’ve held beating hearts in my hands,” he says. During breaks between projects, Doyle’s desire to get back to The Sanctuary was strong because the resort had become a counterpoint of peace to his fast-paced, demanding job. “It’s so hard to actually get a moment with yourself. Somebody wants a bit of you everywhere. To dedicate a week or ten days or a month –whatever you can afford – to play catch up with yourself, that is the magic of here.”

“Increasing numbers of travelers began to make their way by boat or by hiking over the mountain to discover a beautiful, peaceful destination.

越来越多的旅人开始 乘船或徒步翻山越

Michael Doyle 早于 90 年代，就曾造访这个秘

境，最后在 1998 年成为 The Sanctuary 的首席执行官。

Michael 现在已将营运权交给总经理 Nolan Dalby，两 人一起迎接疫情大流行期间的各种挑战，又在现今疫 情后重新复苏的旅游年代，带领 The Sanctuary 招待 对旅游健康体验感到好奇，并抱持开放的态度跃跃欲 试的各地宾客。

「我对 The Sanctuary 最早的记忆，是我在 90 年代于帽子林（Haad Rin）学习太极拳的时候。」 Michael 表示：「有人邀大家一起去参加开幕派对，所 以我们约好在早上集合，一起越过山头走到隔壁海滩。

我们大约有二十人，大家都把衣服脱掉，冲到海里游 泳，然后在沙滩上放松闲聊。太阳下山时，我们走过 岬角、穿过丛林。我永远记得那段路程，觉得自己好 像正在穿过一层薄膜一样。内心慢慢起了变化。」

之后几年，他们一小群友人与当地工匠合作建造 出一个佛堂，用于教学交流。佛堂位置偏远，不易被 发现，所以好一段时间以来，The Sanctuary 主要是 个口耳相传的地点，由朋友介绍朋友来参观。但这里 的名声慢慢传开，秘密也逐渐曝光。越来越多旅人开 始乘船或徒步翻山越岭，来探索这个美丽、宁静之地。

在 90 年代，Michael 在医疗服务产业任职，工

作压力极大。他在该地区各处奔走，为各间医院设立 心脏科专科病房。这份工作对他的身心负担相当大， 紧绷到让他喘不过气。他说：「我参与开心手术，手 上握着跳动的心脏。」每逢空档时期，Michael 都渴 望重返 The Sanctuary，因为这里能让他逃离节奏快、 耗费精力的工作，并享有平静与安宁。「要真正找到 时间与自己相处非常困难。每个人都需要你。在自己 能力可及的范围内，花一周、十天或一个月的时间在 这里重新充电、重拾自我，这就是这里的魔力。」

The Sanctuary 这个名字具有庇护与喘息的意涵， 开业多年引起众多宾客共鸣。在现今由科技主导的世 界，要找到可以逃逸与享受平静的时刻几乎是难上加 难，休息与充电的概念因而变得格外重要。

岭，来探索这个美 丽、宁静之地。”

↑ The Sanctuary offers a sense of refuge and respite. 度假村犹如世外桃源， 让人得以喘息休整。

→ Jungle meets sea at Haad Tien beach. 哈天海滩上的丛 林与海洋景致。

← Accommodations offer both luxury and privacy.

住宿环境豪华且隐秘。

间在这里重新充电、重拾自 我，这就是这里的魔力。 ”

This sense of refuge and respite reflected in the name of the property is something that has resonated with guests over the years that The Sanctuary has been open. It is especially relevant today in a world dominated by tech, where it can sometimes feel almost impossible to escape and find moments of peace.

The Sanctuary has come a long way since its early days. Prepandemic, in the latter months of 2019 and early 2020, it was packed with wellness visitors. The following quieter years have given the resort the chance to have a detox and refresh of its own in preparation for an influx of visitors made more mindful of health by the events of recent years. “I just think that the world is ready after this craziness of COVID-19,” says Doyle. “People have been doing yoga online in their bedrooms, they’ve had a taste of something remotely, and now they can enjoy it in person in an immersive way.”

创始初期，The Sanctuary 已走过一段漫 长的道路。疫情大流行之前，在 2019 年末至 2020 年初的那几个月间，度假村涌入众多为养 生而来的宾客。在后续较为平静的两三年间， 度假村有机会自我整理更新，为疫情后更注重 健康的大批游客做好准备。Michael 指出：「我 觉得经历过疫情的疯狂时期之后，世界已经做 好准备。大家这几年都在卧室里跟着线上教程 做瑜珈，体验过远端的感觉后，现在终于能亲 身来体验瑜伽课程。」

现在度假村重新迎客，也比以前更加繁忙， 因为宾客都纷纷意识到照顾自我的重要性。宾 客可以参与旨在重建身心灵的排毒课程来恢复 活力，并透过各类瑜伽课程来拥抱正念，或在 水疗与康体中心享受各种感官体验，让大自然 与度假村中技艺高超的疗愈师共同施展魔力。

Michael 表示：「The Sanctuary 让你有机 会完成各种想为自己而做的事，除了对自己身 心有益的事之外，你没有其他事要做。如果你 什么都不想做，也可利用这段时间来建立正面 积极的意向，或是回想自己一直想做但平常无 法做的事情，重新安排待办事项的优先次序。

毕竟，作为 The Sanctuary 的接待者，我们的目 标是让宾客从这里找回内心的平静。与自己同 在，就在此时此刻。」

Now the resort is back and busier than ever as guests recognize the importance of selfcare. They can rejuvenate with a detox program designed to reset bodies and minds, embrace mindfulness with yoga at all levels of practice, or simply indulge their senses at the spa and wellness center, allowing Nature, in tandem with the highly skilled practitioners at the resort, to work her magic.

“It gives you a chance to have nice dilemmas about the things you want to do for yourself,” says Doyle. “There are no real things to do, other than things that are good for you. If you don’t want to do anything, you can use the time to get some positive intention or to remember things that you’ve wanted to do that life hasn’t allowed you to and maybe reprioritize the list? Ultimately our goals as hosts are for guests to take away from The Sanctuary a sense of inner peace. Be with you. Be here now.”

“To dedicate a week or ten days or a month - whatever you can afford - to play catch up with yourself, this is the magic of here.

在自己能力可及的范围内， 花一周、十天或一个月的时

Randall O’Leary

In 1992, yoga instructor Randall O’Leary serendipitously discovered The Sanctuary Thailand Spa Resort in Koh Phangan and found his destiny in sharing the ancient wisdom of yoga with its guests. § 1992年，瑜

伽老师Randall O’Leary偶然发现位于泰国帕岸岛的The Sanctuary水疗度假村，并在与学员分享古老瑜

伽智慧时找到人生方向。

How did you get first involved with yoga?

I finished university without any direction. I wanted to give my energy to something meaningful, and I didn’t know what that was. I tried art. I tried music. I was a hobo for a while, just traveling around America. I worked at the circus. I was a house painter. I tried all sorts of things.

My mom told me about a yoga class she attended. I went with her and felt amazing afterwards. I knew there was almost unlimited potential in the practice. Yoga is about consciously changing yourself and growing.

I felt I finally had that direction I had been seeking. I practiced, practiced, and learned. I was getting books and studying; asking questions and going to workshops.

How did you wind up in Thailand?

On the way to India to investigate yoga and its roots and origins, I stopped in Thailand for a few weeks. While waiting for my flight to India, I visited and stayed in a few places but felt a gravitational pull towards this island, Koh Phangan. I came over on the boat and arrived in Haad Rin. It felt very open, sort of psychedelic and hippie, and very interesting.

您当初怎么会接触瑜伽？

大学毕业后我的人生没有什么方向。我想把 自己的精力投注在有意义的事情上，但我不知道 什么才有意义。我试过艺术，也试过音乐，还在 美国各地流浪过一阵子。我曾在马戏团打工，也 帮忙刷油漆。我做过各式各样的工作。

我妈妈跟我聊到她参加的瑜伽课程，所以我

跟她一起去，我做完瑜伽之后感觉非常好。我知 道在瑜伽的练习过程中，人能激发出无穷潜力。

瑜伽的重点在于有意识地改变自己、让自己成长。 我觉得自己终于找到那个苦苦追寻的方向。

我不断练习、练习，并且学习进修。我会找书来 研读，也会提出问题、去参加工作坊。

那您怎么会来到泰国？

我到印度研究瑜伽以及瑜伽的起源和脉络 前，在泰国停留了几个星期。在等待飞往印度的 航班时，我参观了几个地方，并住了一段时间， 其中帕岸岛使我特别着迷。我搭船过来，抵达 Haad Rin 海滩。这边感觉非常开放，有点迷幻跟 嬉皮，一切都很有趣。

How did you find out about The Sanctuary?

I had been on the island a few days and had a great time, but I still felt a pull somewhere. I looked at a map and found this beach. I didn’t know there was anything there, but I decided to investigate. I thought I might be sleeping on the beach alone, so I brought a bunch of food and camping stuff. I didn’t even know there was a trail – I just got my backpack, walked to the end of the beach, and started walking into the jungle.

I found the trail and followed it and ended up at the top of the stairs here. It was the strangest feeling I ever had in my life – I knew this was the place I was supposed to be. I followed my intuition – I didn’t know what I was seeking, I just knew this was something that was going to change my life. And, funnily enough, it has.

How and why did you begin teaching yoga?

I visited The Sanctuary over several years before returning to the States to earn money. I started staying longer and longer until in ’98 I stayed to teach.

When you gather knowledge and have enough energy and knowledge to share with others, it’s almost an obligation to do so. Without sharing wisdom, yoga wouldn’t be here.

Teaching empowers people. They can take yoga’s ancient wisdom and teachings and use them to help their own lives, and maybe even to teach others. So that’s what I want to pass on to people.

What would you say is special about The Sanctuary as a place to begin or continue a yoga journey?

The Sanctuary is such an open community of people who feel free and comfortable with themselves. Yoga teaches that every individual is unique – there’s never been anyone like them and there never again will be another person like them on the earth. I teach with that as my primary philosophy – that people come here, and I have to see them as individuals.

I stick with the idea that yoga is a practice that can help you transform yourself into what you want to be. You can take charge of your health, of your mental health, of the way your mind and emotions work and the way you flow through the world. I’m very sure that if I hadn’t found yoga, my path would have been very, very different.

您是怎么发现 The Sanctuary 的？ 我在岛上停留了几天，玩得很开心，但我还是觉得某个地 方正在呼唤我。我看了一下地图，发现这座海滩。我不知道那边 有什么，但决定亲自去看一看。我心想自己可能会独自睡在海滩 上，所以带了一堆食物和露营用具。我甚至不知道那边有一条小 径。我只带着背包就走到海滩尽头，然后开始走进丛林。 我找到这条小路，沿着小路走，最后来到这里的楼梯顶端。 这是我一生中最奇怪的感受，我知道我是属于这里的。我跟随自 己的直觉，但不晓得自己到底在寻找什么，只知道这将会改变我 的人生。有趣的是，这还真的改变了我的生命。

您为什么会开始在这边教瑜伽？

在回到美国赚钱之前的那几年间，我曾多次拜访这里，后 来停留的时间越来越长，最后在 98 年留下来担任老师。

当你不断搜集知识，并且有足够的能量与知识与他人分享 时，教学就是一种义务了。如果不分享智慧，瑜伽根本就不存在。 教学能让人充满力量。他们可以把瑜伽的古老智慧与精神 用来帮助改善自己的生活，甚至能用来教导他人。所以这就是我 想传递给大家的东西。

作为开始或继续探索瑜伽的一站，您认为 The Sanctuary 有哪些 特别之处？

The Sanctuary 是个非常开放的社群，大家都能在这里开心 自在地做自己。瑜伽告诉我们每个人都是独一无二的。世界上没 有任何一个人跟他们一样，而且未来也不会有人跟他们一样。在 我的教学中，我将这个观念当成首要哲学。学员来到这里，我必 须将他们当成独立的个体来看待。 我坚信瑜伽能协助你成为自己想要的样子。你可以对自己 的健康、心理健康、心智以及情绪负责，以及主导你在这个世界 中流动的方式。我相信假如自己当初没有遇到瑜伽，人生的道路 会跟现在截然不同。

Bitter Tweet from Tell Camellia Tell Camellia的Bitter Tweet鸡尾酒

碳标先导

With Future Green’s new Carbon Labelling Programme, Hong Kong restaurant guests can make informed choices about dining sustainably.

“GLOBAL FOOD SYSTEMS currently account for around a third of greenhouse gas emissions,” says Heidi Spurrell, CEO of food-sustainability consultancy Future Green, formerly known as Food Made Good Hong Kong. “Demand for food is expected to double by 2050, leading to dramatically higher emission levels unless we radically change how we produce, consume, and dispose of food.”

As a way to help the city’s vast F&B sector become more sustainable and to encourage diners in making more planet-friendly choices, Future Green has partnered with Henderson Land Group for the March launch of their industry-leading Carbon Labelling Programme, under which participating restaurants’ menus will display icons indicating each dish’s environmental impact.

First to join the program are two of Henderson Land Group’s own Mira Dining restaurants, Chinesology and JAJA , and four of its tenant establishments, Gassan, Tell Camellia, TREEHOUSE, and Wulao (HK).

The Group was the city’s first property developer to support and

114 | TK with the grain

Diao Wine and Chicken Fat from Chinesology 唐述的花雕鸡 油蒸本地马友

「全球食物系统占目前温室气体排放的三分 之一。」食品永续顾问公司 Future Green（旧 称为 Food Made Good HK）行政总裁 Heidi Spurrell 表示：「预计到 2050 年，人类对食物

的需求将会倍增，要是我们没有彻底改变生产、 消耗和处理食物的方式，碳排放的水平就会大 幅提升。」为了协助香港庞大的餐饮业在永续 方面的发展，并鼓励食客做出更环保永续的选 择，Future Green 与恒基兆业地产集团合作， 在三月推出领先餐饮产业界的「碳标签先导计 画」，参与餐厅的菜单将显示每道菜式对环境 的影响。

首先加入此计画的是恒基兆业地产集团 旗下的 Mira Dining 的唐述和 JAJA 餐厅，以及 集团的四家餐饮租户：月山、Tell Camellia、 TREEHOUSE 和无老锅（香港）。

Steamed Local Ma Yau with Hua

→ Gagan Gurung, co-founder, Tell Camellia

Tell Camellia联合创 始人Gagan Gurung

→ →

Spiced tofu, long beans, mushroom and brown rice, ingredients of Musella Bowl from TREEHOUSE 五香豆腐、长 豆、蘑菇和糙

米，TREEHOUSE的 Musella Bowl的食材

Layered Tofu Hotpot from Wulao (HK) 无老锅（香港）的面 包豆腐白汤锅

Mayau and Hua Diao, ingredients of Steamed Local Ma Yau with Hua Diao

Wine and Chicken Fat from Chinesology 马友及花雕，唐 述的花雕鸡油蒸 本地马友的食材

encourage its F&B outlets and tenants to undergo the widely recognized sustainability audits of Food Made Good HK, and it has also been the primary sponsor over the last three years of the consultancy’s annual foodsustainability awards.

The new Carbon Labelling Programme’s six participating restaurants represent a broad range of dining experiences, from reimagined Chinese to luxe vegetarian and sumptuous Japanese cuisines. Participants’ menus will label dishes and drinks as low, medium, or high in terms of climate impact. According to the World Wide Fund for Nature’s One Planet Plate initiative, based on the UN’s climate goals, a low-impact meal is defined as emitting 0.5 kg CO2e or less.

The program will include tracking and calculation of the carbon footprints of dishes by a data specialist, who will aggregate a range of impact factors, including land use, transport, and packaging. Data will be collected over two months to measure how diners’ choices have been influenced by the labels and any resulting reduction in emissions.

恒基兆业地产集团是香港首个支持和 鼓励其餐饮部门和餐饮租户接受 Food Made Good HK 永续发展审查的地产发展集团，这项 审查计画广受业界认可。同时，在过去三年来， 恒基兆业地产集团也是由 Food Made Good HK 主办的年度食品永续发展奖项的主要赞助 商。 参与「碳标签先导计画」的六家餐厅， 分别带来风格迥异的餐饮体验。唐述精心设计 出颠覆中式餐饮的菜单，而 JAJA 则提供奢华 的精致蔬食料理。月山的日本料理极其澎湃丰 盛，TREEHOUSE 的素蔬菜肴则提供了创意十 足的生态餐点，而无老锅的招牌料理则是正宗 台湾特色火锅。酒吧 Tell Camellia 则以茶为灵 感，推出低碳排鸡尾酒，让本地调酒材料大放 异彩。

luxurious well-being

In a serene natural setting, Banyan Tree Veya Phuket pampers guests with personalized wellness journeys.

EACH NEW YEAR BRINGS a new wave of creative travel trends that reflect guests’ current wants and needs, and in the post-pandemic world, many are seeking a health hiatus focusing on fitness, relaxation, and spiritual renewal. There has never been a better time for luxury resort brand Banyan Tree to launch its unique Veya concept, offering guests a custom travel experience aimed at improving physical and mental well-being.

Banyan Tree Veya Phuket is the brand’s first resort to introduce the new concept, with future openings planned for sister resorts Banyan Tree Veya Valle De Guadalupe, Banyan Tree Veya Ilha Nejovo, and Banyan Tree Veya Bacalar. By providing physical assessments, fitness classes, creative workshops, and more, Veya has been specially tailored to offer a well-rounded and personalized experience for every guest.

BY NICOLE SLATER

Set in the picturesque natural surroundings of Laguna Phuket, Banyan Tree Veya Phuket is one of eight hotels on the property. It offers a beach, an eighteen-hole golf course, private villas, a luxury spa, access to multiple restaurants, and a cycle track where guests can also borrow a bike for their stay and explore the area.

As a pioneer in naturally luxurious and ecologically sensitive hospitality, Banyan Tree Veya Phuket maintains the well-known high standards of the Banyan Tree brand, with unique touches that set it apart as a wellness destination. From room amenities like singing bowls, yoga mats, and pillow sprays to attentive turndown services that include DIY scrubs and healthy treats hand-delivered to the door, the resort has taken care to make every interaction and experience personal for every guest.

The entire resort is tailored around the Veya well-being concept, and

每年新年都会掀起一波新的创意旅游趋势，反 映社会大众当前的所愿所求。在后疫情时代， 许多人追求以健身、放松、心灵重建为主的健 康休闲之旅。奢华度假酒店品牌悦榕庄的独特 维养轩概念，为宾客带来增进身心健康的专属 客制化旅程，现在正是推出的最佳时机。 普吉岛悦榕维养轩是悦榕庄品牌首个引 入全新概念的度假村，其姐妹度假村瓜达卢佩 山谷悦榕维养轩、Ilha Nejovo 悦榕 维养轩和巴卡拉尔榕维养轩将陆续 正式开幕。透过身体评估、健康课 程、创意研讨会等，维养轩致力于 为每位宾客提供全面与客制化的康 体体验。

普吉岛悦榕维养轩座落于风景如诗如画 的普吉岛乐古浪的自然环境中，是该地区的八 家酒店之一。酒店有一个海滩、一个十八洞高 尔夫球场、私人别墅、豪华水疗中心、数间餐 厅，以及一条自行车道。宾客还可在住宿期间 外借自行车，来一场全区探索之旅。

作为自然奢华与生态意识鲜明的酒店先 驱，普吉岛悦榕维养轩延续悦榕庄品牌众所周 知的高标准，并以独一无二的服务和概念成为 身心健康的理想休憩中心。从颂钵、瑜珈垫 和枕头喷雾等房内设施，到周全的夜床服务、 DIY 磨砂膏和送至房门口的健康点心等，度假

during their stay, guests are encouraged to follow its eight pillars: sleep and rest, dietary awareness, sustained practice, harmony with nature, learning and development, bonding and connection, cultivating the mind, and physical vitality.

Prior to arrival, guests receive a short health evaluation questionnaire that helps establish their current well-being routine and what can be improved and helps determine how best they can spend their time at the resort.

On arrival, they have a one-on-one meeting with a Banyan Tree Veya Phuket specialist to plan a unique experience designed to advance their health goals. Included in the regimen are complimentary wellness activities, specialized spa treatments, and meal plans. At the end of their stay, guests have the opportunity to reflect on their experience with their specialists and plan how they can bring the techniques they’ve learned home with them to create healthy routines and habits that can last a lifetime.

One of the many wellness amenities that Banyan Tree Veya Phuket offers is an extensive range of complimentary classes that guests can attend throughout their stay and throughout the day, from morning yoga sessions to calming evening singing bowl meditation. Workshops allow guests to create and take home a unique souvenir, such as personalized room spray or massage oil.

A collection of water sporting equipment is available for hire, allowing guests to spend a leisurely afternoon exploring the surroundings of the lagoon by kayak or boat. Those seeking more challenging

村竭尽所能让每次互动与服务体验契合宾客的 需求与偏好。

整座度假村都是围绕着 Veya 的健康概念

所设计。住宿期间，度假村鼓励宾客遵循其八 大主要概念：安然好眠、饮食意识、持续实践、 自然共处、学习发展、亲密互动、修养心智以 及身体活力。

在抵达度假村之前，宾客会接受一个简短 的健康评估测试，找出目前健康养生例行程序 中能够改进调整的部分，确保他们能在度假村 内享有最美好的时光。

抵达后，他们将与普吉岛悦榕维养轩的专 家进行一对一面谈，规划出能促进其身心健康 的客制化体验。疗程包括免费健康活动和专属 的水疗护理及膳食方案。住宿结束时，宾客能 与专家一起反思在度假村内的体验，讨论如何 将所学带回家，创造出能够延续一辈子的健康 常规和习惯。

普吉岛悦榕维养轩具备许多健康方面的设 施与服务，其中之一是各式各样的免费课程。 宾客能在住宿期间全天候参加，从早上的瑜伽 课到傍晚平静的颂钵冥想等，皆任君挑选。工 作坊能让宾客动手制作独一无二的纪念品带回 家留念，如符合个人需求的室内喷雾或按摩油。

度假村有多项水上运动设施可供租借，宾

fitness routines have the option of adding extra classes or one-on-one sessions at additional cost.

At the heart of the resort and its new well-being concept is Veya restaurant. Offering both Asian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes and focusing on health-conscious and plant-forward cuisine, Veya is unlike any other restaurant on the Phuket dining scene. Using ingredients that respect the land and are celebrated for their flavor and quality, guests enjoy a tranquil poolside dining experience in the knowledge that it isn’t causing harm to the environment.

Banyan Tree Phuket is also home to three other distinctive dining options: Saffron, the resort’s signature restaurant; The Watercourt, a scenic international restaurant; and Banyan Café, a quick and casual eatery.

With its ideal combination of relaxation and physical activity in Laguna Phuket’s stunning natural surroundings, Banyan Tree Veya Phuket is set to become the favorite wellness destination of guests from around the world.

客能悠哉地安排一整个下午的时间，乘坐独木舟 或小船探索礁湖的环境。若宾客想从事更刺激的 健身运动，可额外付费参加其他课程或一对一训 练。

Veya 餐厅是度假村及其全新健康概念的核 心。这间餐厅提供亚洲和地中海风格料理，推出 各种符合健康观念的植物性菜肴，这与普吉岛餐 饮界的其他餐厅作法截然不同。使用尊重土地以 及重视风味和品质的食材原料，宾客于宁静池畔 边享用美食时，也都知晓所食用的料理不会对环 境造成伤害。

度假村内还有另外三种餐饮选择：Saffron 是度假村的招牌餐厅，Watercourt 是一家风景优 美的国际餐厅，Banyan Café 则主打休闲快餐。

在普吉岛乐古浪的迷人自然环境中，将身心 放松与肢体活动完美结合，普吉岛悦榕维养轩将 成为各国旅客最喜爱的养生休闲圣地。

tuscan good health

At Lux Lucis in Tuscany, Chef Valentino Cassanelli shows that eating well has great rewards.

↑ ↑

Signature snack of skinned tomatoes marinated in Bloody Mary cocktail sauce 招牌小吃－血腥玛丽 调酒汁腌制番茄

↑ Roasted veal sirloin and grilled leek, fresh olives, and pine nuts 烤小牛腰肉和烤韭葱、 新鲜橄榄和松子

↑ ↑ Mackerel in scent of coffee, with snails, caviar, and quince 带有咖啡香气的鲭鱼，配 搭蜗牛、鱼子酱和榅桲

LUX LUCIS RESTAURANT at Principe Forte dei Marmi in Italy is ideally positioned for promoting well-being. Between a mountain range crested with fertile vineyards and seamed with Carrara marble and a stretch of Tuscan coastline hemmed with perfect, white-sand beaches, the restaurant has at its disposal lavish riches from both hills and ocean.

A luxury resort dedicated to wellness, Principe Forte dei Marmi offers a superb spa that attracts visitors over the winter months. In warmer weather, guests can enjoy an outdoor pool in the shade of the Apuan Alps or the historic Dalmazia Beach Club on a private stretch of sable sand.

Principe Forte dei Marmi Executive Chef and Director of Food and Beverage Valentino Cassanelli presides over the Beach Club restaurant, Dalmazia, as well as the hotel’s more informal Principe restaurant and Lux Lucis, a twenty-eight-seater fine-dining restaurant on the hotel’s rooftop, with its stunning panoramic views across the Tuscan countryside.

↑ Strawberry, rice, and calamansi 草莓、米饭和柑橘

位于意大利 Principe Forte dei Marmi 豪华度假 村的 Lux Lucis 餐厅，是提倡身心健全的理想之 所。Lux Lucis 座落在拥有肥沃葡萄园和 Carrara 大理石的壮阔山脉之间，另一边则是一望无际 的绝美托斯卡尼白沙滩海岸线，尽享地理优势， 让这家餐厅拥有丰富的山海资源。

BY LUCY MORGAN

Principe Forte dei Marmi 一直致力于提升 健康福祉。在冬季，出色的温泉 Spa 让旅客慕 名而来。而在温暖的季节，宾客能 泡在阿普安阿尔卑斯山的树荫笼罩 下的室外游泳池中，或是在位于私 人沙滩上、历史悠久的 Dalmazia 海 滩俱乐部放松休息。

Cassanelli opened Lux Lucis in 2012, and in 2017, it was awarded a Michelin star that it has retained ever since. His ingredient-focused cooking creatively interprets the bounty of the Tuscan terroir to express his life experiences and travels. “Every plate comes from my head,” he says. “I often combine ingredients from land and sea to reflect where we are.” Cassanelli also sees the health-giving properties of quality

Principe Forte dei Marmi 酒店的行政主 厨与餐饮总监 Valentino Cassanelli 主掌 Beach Club 餐厅、Dalmazia 餐厅、较轻松休闲的 Principe 餐厅，以及位于酒店屋顶的 Lux Lucis 餐厅。该餐厅提供二十八个座位，还能瞭望迷 人的托斯卡尼乡村全景。

Valentino 在 2012 年开设 Lux Lucis。2017 年，餐厅被授予米其林一星，并一直保持这项 殊荣。他的烹饪手法以食材为中心，并以非常

ingredients as an important part of fine dining. “We try to supply a rich selection of many dishes on the tasting menu, but with the right balance of fat and calories to provide an exceptional experience and lasting memories of the food.”

Strong relationships with local farmers and producers ensure that Cassanelli has access to the region’s highest-quality produce while also making a positive impact on the countryside that he loves. Six years ago, he began working with Molino Angeli, a local mill that uses traditional stone-grinding techniques to preserve the most nutritious part of the grain. The mill works with ancient grains, which are naturally lower on the glycemic index, lower in gluten, and easier to digest and which are grown without fertilizers or pesticides. “Molino Angeli plants ancient grains originating from this territory and makes super flours from them,” says Cassanelli. “I use them for my pizza dough and pasta, and you can taste the difference in the dishes.”

有创意的方式诠释出托斯卡尼风土的富饶， 来表达个人生命经历与旅行见闻。他说：「每 道菜都是我的创作。我经常在料理中结合来 自陆地和海洋的食材，来反映我们所在区域 的特色。」Valentino 也认为食材的健康滋养 特性，是高级餐饮体验中相当重要的元素。「我 们的品尝菜单提供许多菜肴，但还是要适当 平衡脂肪和卡路里，这样才能提升整体感受， 让客人享有美好的美食记忆。」

Valentino 与当地农民及生产者建立稳 固的关系，使他得以获得当地最优质的产品， 而且也替他所热爱的乡村带来正向效应。六 年前，他开始与当地的磨坊 Molino Angeli 合 作，他们使用传统的石磨技术来保存谷物中 最营养的部分。磨坊使用古老的谷物，而这 种谷物的升糖指数本来就比较低、麸质含量 也较低，同时更容易消化。这些谷物是在没 有化肥或杀虫剂的情况下种植的。「Molino Angeli 种植源自这个地区的古老谷物，并用

Buttons of squilla mantis with nettle and rooster combs 用虾蛄、荨麻和鸡 冠制成的 「钮扣」

Cassanelli also works with a biodynamic farm just a few streets away from the restaurant. “Part of their production is just for us,” he says. “In springtime, we tell them what ingredients we want for the menu, and they grow them. They know they are selling all that produce and so don’t have any waste. Organic food production is good for nature as well as for us. Not using chemicals means the soil returns to its original state.”

The wellness benefits of Lux Lucis extend far beyond the restaurant’s walls. Farming ancient grains had fallen out of favor due to rising costs, but now, the demand from Lux Lucis means that traditional crops have returned to the area. And the vegetable farm that Cassanelli supports runs programs for local schoolchildren, giving them a better understanding of the region’s biodiversity and how to preserve it.

“We need to gain awareness and grow in harmony with the territory,” says Cassanelli. “That’s really healthy.”

这些谷物来制作超级面粉，而我则用他们的面粉来制作薄 饼面团和意大利面。」

Valentino 表示：「你能品尝到差异所 在。」

Valentino 还与一座距离餐厅只有几条街之隔的生物 动力农场合作。他说：「他们生产的部分农作物是专供我们 使用的。春天时，我们会告诉他们想使用什么食材，他们 就会安排种植。他们知道所有的产品都会卖给我们，所以 不会产生任何浪费。有机食品生产对大自然和我们来说都 有好处。不使用化学制品，代表土壤能恢复到原始状态。」

Lux Lucis 为「健康」带来的效益已经远超出餐厅的范 畴：由于成本上升，种植古代谷物已经不受农民青睐。Lux Lucis 使用古代谷物面粉的需求，让这项传统作物重新回到 这个地区。Valentino 支持的蔬菜农场也替当地学童设计了 一系列活动计画，让他们能进一步了解该地区的生物多样 性以及生态保存方式。

Valentino 指出：「我们必须具备生态意识，并与该地 区和谐发展，这才是真正的健康。」

Lux Lucis’s bright, airy dining room offers panoramic views across countryside and ocean. 餐厅明亮通风，可欣赏鄕村和海洋景致。

西班牙拥有质量超群又如万花筒般丰富的经典 美食，也是其历史、文化宝贵的组成部分。“西 班牙美食界”项目旨在分享独特的西班牙美食

和烹饪传统，将在中国和全球各地推广西班牙 美食产品。欢迎关注“ SpainFoodNation ”

网站，以及此项目在国内各类媒体上的内容发

布。希望以美食传递来自西班牙的热情，让火腿、 葡萄酒的红色給您的春节添上喜气、让甜红椒、 番红花为您春节的餐桌增加风味。西班牙美食 丰盛、多姿，待您发现更多！

探索西班牙美食以及美食产品， 请访问“SpainFoodNation”网站

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天外天

5 Chinese 28/F, Hotel ICON, 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong

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Lunch: 11:30-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:30

q +852 3400 1318

Africa Coffee & Tea

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香港黄竹坑香叶道41号 1501-02室

Mon-Wed: 09:00-19:00

Thu-Fri: 09:00-21:00

Sat-Sun: 10:00-18:00

q +852 2180 7536

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Sun-Thu: 17:00-00:00

Fri-Sat: 17:00-01:00

q +852 3891 8732

A Smart Casual

The Legacy House 彤福轩

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5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

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Lunch: 12:00-14:30

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

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Empress by Boon

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838 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94108, United States

Mon-Sat: 17:00-22:00 q +1 415-757-0728

Lux Lucis

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Viale Ammiraglio Morin 67, 55042 Forte dei Marmi (Lucca), Italy

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SKYE

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香港铜锣湾告士打道310号香港

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Fri-Sat: 12:00-01:00

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Sushi Fujimoto

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香港中环阁麟街48号6楼

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北京银行总部大厦四季大厅内