TK28 Spring Sojourn by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 28

K I T C H E N

S P R I N G

GEORGIA

Act of Creation 完美创作

S O J O U R N

PHUKET

Planting, Raising, Understanding 盘中农场

SRI LANKA

Eden Reenvisioned 再造天堂

STARTER

Chef de Cuisine Min Young Kim of Fontana Buffet at Wynn Palace Cotai presents from the restaurant’s sumptuous raw bar the perfect starter for seafood connoisseurs. These fine de claire oysters finish their growth in salt ponds for at least a month, where they take on their lusciously sweet flavor. Flown in from France, they are served on the half shell in all their fresh-from-the-sea glory.

DAVID HARTUNG

在澳门路氹永利皇宫「咖啡苑」的海鲜吧里，最亮眼的是由厨师长金荣敏精选的法国芬大奇生蚝，可谓一众海鲜迷不容错过的极致美味。法国芬大奇生蚝会被移放至盐田池中养殖最少一个月，造就独特甘美的鲜甜。从法国直送至澳门，每一口尽是大海的滋味。

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T A S T I N G 28

S P R I N G

K I T C H E N S O J O U R N

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

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Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon presents Crispy Fried King Prawn Tossed with Salted Egg Yolk and Butter. The shelled, coated prawn and reserved head and tail are deep-fried till golden. Butter and chopped salted egg yolk are stirred to an espuma in a wok, and the prawn and a little sugar are added and tossed. Garnishes are black sesame seeds, crispy green leaves, rice paper, and the seasoned head and tail. 誉珑轩主厨谭国锋以妙手精雕细琢，把传统粤菜金沙明虾球端上这场极致华宴的餐桌。谭主厨保留虾头和虾尾油炸至酥脆，然后把去壳、蘸上生粉的大虾炸至亮眼的金黄色。牛油和碎咸蛋黄则于镬中炒匀至泡沫状，再加入虾球及少许砂糖快炒，最后以黑芝麻、爽脆绿叶、米纸及香气扑鼻的虾头、虾尾作点缀，让这道令人齿颊留香的菜色更添细腻口感。

Photography by David Hartung

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. Spring is a time to roam and explore and experiment. In this issue, Spring Sojourn, we travel across seven countries on two continents to savor and celebrate the bounty of the season. First, we contemplate the work of an Osakan artist, a painting prompted by the spring colors of Japan’s beloved cherry blossoms. Then we look at a Swedish designer’s hydrangea-inspired tableware that explores the interplay between nature and geometry. In Hong Kong, we visit a custom rug maker whose creations have brought vibrant visual life to restaurants and hotels around the world. Returning to Japan, we admire an award-winning series of chairs with an ethereal structure and citrusy colors reminiscent of yōkan, Japan’s favorite jellied dessert. And we stroll garden rows with an Italian chef in Tokyo whose farm-to-table cuisine is built on his relationships with Japan’s small growers. Next, we linger in Vietnam’s Phu Quoc over the entertaining design details of architect Bill Bensley’s newest project for JW Marriott, a themed resort on Emerald Bay featuring Vietnamese, Japanese, and French cuisine and a unique Department of Chemistry Bar. Our sojourn’s last stop, created by Dilmah Tea’s leisure arm, is Sri Lanka’s Cape Weligama, a tropical haven with resplendent Indian Ocean views, seafood fresh from the deep, and traditional afternoon tea high atop the cliffs. Bangkok last month hosted the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 awards ceremony, and in this issue we share the work of ten honored chefs. Among them are Umberto Bombana of Otto e Mezzo, recognized with the lifetime achievement award, and Richard Ekkebus of Amber, a restaurant which climbed the list to number three. Spring Sojourn also marks the launch of Gaggenau Culinary Artisans, an ongoing series of features and master classes that aim to bring professional-level chefs’ skills to the serious home cook. Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 8 Rite of Spring • 10 Garden Inspired • 12 Sweet Seat 14 Creative Carpets • 18 Culinary Symbiosis 28 Flavors from the Sea • 32 Touching the Soil • 36 East Meets Best

28 8

50 92

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96 18

CONTENTS

56 Phu Quoc Fantasy • 60 Eden Reenvisioned • 64 Thirty Years on Top 72 Act of Creation • 80 Planting, Raising, Understanding 84 Imperial Style • 86 Whisky Heaven • 90 An Original Idea 94 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 96 D E S S E R T

56 60

100

96 72

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FOOD & ART

花见

Rite of Spring

An Osaka artist captures the luminous beauty celebrated in Japan’s annual homage to the nation’s favorite flower.

PICNICS AND PARTIES under gorgeous branches will take place all across Japan over the next few months as the “watching blossoms” season, hanami , meanders its way up the length of the country, from Okinawa in March to Hokkaido in May. The centuries-old tradition of gathering beneath the sakura , or cherry blossom, trees at the height of their bloom began during the Nara period (710-794), when it was actually ume , or plum blossoms, that were the favorite of the imperial court. As the Nara transitioned into the Heian, cherry blossoms began to charm their way into the gardens and hearts of Japan’s nobility before conquering the affections of the entire nation. For long ages, food and drink have been associated with the yearly rite. At first it was a means of forecasting harvests and signaling the start of rice planting. The ancients, who believed that elemental spirits inhabited the trees, would offer appeasing sacrifices before indulging in sake. Nowadays, the emphasis is on having a good time with family and friends. Parties, sometimes growing raucous, may continue on until late night, when lanterns are often hung in the branches. Favorite foods include bento of every sort and dango , sweet dumplings made from rice flour. One thing that hasn’t changed since the Heian period is the free flow of sake. All the joy of hanami and the vibrancy of springtime are captured in the oil on canvas reproduced here. Entitled Cherry Blossoms , it was painted in 2012 by Osaka-born Ayako Fujimoto. According to the artist, her works are structured by their colors, often applied with strong contrasts and in highly saturated complementary hues. Translating emotion into visible form is for her “almost like a shamanic act,” entirely fitting for portraying what has become an almost sacred flower in the culture of Japan.

接下来的数月，人们在日本各地会经常看到满开樱花树下举办的野餐和聚会，这是日本春季的传统活动－「花见」。日本地型狭长，樱花会率先在三月的冲绳开放，随着时间推进花期逐渐北上，五月在北海道可欣赏到最后盛放的，但赏的是当时最受皇室樱花。「花见」起源自奈良时代（710 年－ 794 年）欢迎的梅花或桃花。到了平安时代，樱花开始普及，被广泛种在贵族和居民的花园中，更植根于他们的心上。悠久的「花见」历史中，美酒佳肴是这年度仪式中不可或缺的一部分。「花见」以前曾是日本农民预测秋收、决定播种时间的方法。古人相信樱花树中有灵，在花宴开始前会于树下摆放供品。时至今日，「花见」演变成与亲朋好友相聚的节目。樱花树下的聚会让人尽兴，有时聚会更会持续至夜晚。樱花在挂于枝上的灯笼映衬下，别有一唯一不变的是聚会上一杯接一杯的清酒。在大阪出生的艺术家藤本绚子在 2012 年以一幅名为「樱花」的油画永久保存了「花见」美好的春光和盛放的樱花。她解释自己的作品均是以色彩构成，其中广泛运用对比强烈和饱和度高的互补色调。她像萨满教般透过艺术呈现丰富的情感，描絵被奉为日本文化中的神圣之花－樱花。

www.fujimotoayako.com

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COURTESY OF AYAKO FUJIMOTO

番娇艳之美。现今赏花必备的是各式便当和软糯的团子，但从平安时代至今，

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INSPIRED LIVING

来自花园的灵感

Garden Inspired

COURTESY OF MARIMEKKO (2)

A Swedish designer’s climbing hydrangeas spark the idea behind Marimekko’s new spring collection of table furnishings.

CARINA SETH ANDERSSON, recently named Designer of the Year in the ELLE Decoration Swedish Design Awards 2017, has teamed up with Finnish designer Sami Ruotsalainen to conceptualize a spring line of tableware and accessories for Helsinki-based Marimekko, the renowned home furnishings and fashion innovator. The patterns, based on floral forms and bold lines in stark black and white, feature spare touches of pink and gray in the ceramic pieces. Influenced by the interplay between nature and geometry, the new designs make for an interesting contrast with some of the classic tableware patterns the company is known for. When Marimekko asked Andersson to create an organic motif, she thought it might be difficult to translate more natural elements into the brand’s distinctive design language that has endured for half a century. But after reflecting on hydrangeas climbing a trellis at her summerhouse, the design concept suddenly came together. Andersson made paper cutouts and finally came up with three variations named Hortensie, Spaljé, and Basket. During one of her collaborative exchanges with Ruotsalainen, she folded a cutout in the form of a hydrangea stem over the edge of a plate, and he immediately thought the idea “brilliant.” Each pattern represented a story for Ruotsalainen. He took the mixes of lines, stems, and flower heads and decided how to adapt them to the Oiva tableware pieces he’d designed, considering which story would best suit each item in the collection. Hortensie is all about “creating space and air,” Basket explores the “rhythmic interplay of dark surfaces,” and Spaljé bridges the other patterns. As with the cutout, the final patterns are not confined by boundaries but extend over the edges of plates and the rims of cups. The collection, which the designers intend for everyday use, admirably proves their point that everyday objects can be both useful and beautiful.

获得 2017 年 ELLE 瑞典装潢设计大奖年度设计师奖的 Carina Seth

Andersson，和芬兰籍设计师 Sami Ruotsalainen 携手为在芬兰赫尔辛基起家的 Marimekko 品牌打造春季餐具和家饰，成为创意先驱。用纯粹的黑与白描绘花和线条，加入粉红和灰色图案印制于瓷器上。在大自然和几何的碰撞下，此新设计与 Marimekko 品牌以往的经典图案形成有趣对比。当初 Marimekko 邀请 Carina 设计有机图样，将自然元素融入

Marimekko 品牌既存了半世纪的设计风格中，Carina 感到十分困难。但当她看到度假小屋的绣球花爬上棚架的倒影时，灵感油然而生。

Carina 在纸上剪出图形，着手设计，决定出三个图样，分别命名为绣球花、篱芭和篮子。在一次和

Sami 的讨论中，她随手将一个绣球花茎剪纸放在盘子边缘，Sami 不由赞叹这个点子「太高明了」。对 Sami 而言，每个图案诉说着独一无二的故事。他拿着这些线条、花茎和花球，想着如何能将这些图样融入他所设计的 Oiva 餐具系列中，思考什么样的故事能和这个系列契合，绣球花是关于「创造空间感」，篮子透露出「黑暗表面的节奏规律」，而篱芭则是两者之间的桥梁。最后定版的图案不受限于尺寸和形状，恣意延伸，甚至超越盘子的边缘、爬进杯子里。设计师们创造出这平常居家的商品，就是想出色证明它们除了实用，还能漂亮到让人爱不释手。

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DESIGN

品甜家具

Sweet Seat

A designer’s seemingly lighter-than-air furniture takes inspiration from one of Japan’s favorite confections.

WHEN HE STUMBLED ACROSS a seventeenth-century Japanese sweets catalogue and saw the amazing variety of yōkan depicted in its pages, designer Hiroki Sakamoto suddenly got the idea for a new line of chairs, which he hoped would give people the feeling of sitting on air. Yōkan is a popular Japanese jellied dessert often given as gifts. The delicate delight, which is sliced and eaten either chilled or at room temperature, is made from a paste of red beans or white kidney beans combined with agar and sugar. It comes in an endless variety of flavors, including green tea, persimmon, fig, and sweet potato. Trained as an architect, Sakamoto has created other small products in the past, like a set of playing cards made from washi paper. But as the designer wryly notes, the Yokan Chair concept, his opening foray into furniture, is his only project to combine his love for furniture design with his love for sweet bean paste. Sakamoto looked long and hard for materials sturdy enough for chairs that would still convey the translucence of yōkan, which, as he puts it, “looks like condensed air.” The finished products not only mimic the insubstantial quality of the dessert but also faithfully replicate some of the many shapes and colors that yōkan, as Sakamoto discovered in his research, has historically assumed. Sweets in Japan, he explains, are as much about aesthetics as they are about flavor. Japanese confectionery companies often create their offerings around themes taken from nature or legend – Mount Fuji, a lake, a forest under the autumn moon, a mountain path in summertime. In the same way, Sakamoto has varied the color combinations of his chairs to represent the changes in nature that occur throughout Japan’s four seasons. With appropriate timing, considering that yōkan is a favorite at springtime picnics under the blossoming sakura trees, Sakamoto received Singapore’s prestigious Furniture Design Award for his Yokan Chair in March.

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设计师 Hiroki Sakamoto 偶然拜读了一份十七世纪的日本和果子目录，惊叹于羊羹的变化多端，并得到灵感，设计出一系列椅子，希望顾客坐在上头能感觉犹如坐在空气中一般。羊羹在日本是很受欢迎的甜点，常用来馈赠亲友。晶莹剔透的羊羹，常被切成几小块，不论冰冻或者常温都很好吃。羊羹通常以红豆或白腰豆作馅，加上洋菜和砂糖制成，另外还有绿茶、柿子、无花果和地瓜等多种口味。在受训成为专业建筑师期间，

Hiroki 也设计过许多小巧的商品，像是以和纸制成的扑克牌。而设计羊羹椅的突发奇想，是他在家具设计方面的初试啼声，也是唯一一个将自身对家具和红豆馅的喜爱结合起来的作品。

Hiroki 为了兼顾椅子的牢固和他眼中羊羹「如同空气凝结」的晶莹剔透，寻遍各种材质，成品不仅展现了羊羹的薄巧透明，更成功重现 Hiroki 在做资料搜集时发掘到的许多旧时代流行的羊羹颜色和形状。他解释，甜点在日本除了味觉感受到的美味，视觉上的美感也不容忽视，所以日本食品公司常向大自然取经，呈现富士山、湖泊、秋月下的森林、夏日山径等美好意境。异曲同工地，Hiroki 也在羊羹椅的设计中加入丰富色彩，呈现日本四季的变化流转。三月是日本最适合赏樱的时节，而羊羹是日本人赏樱野餐时最喜爱的甜品。无独有偶，就在这春暖花开之时，Hiroki 的羊羹椅获得 2017 年新加坡家具设计大奖的年度设计大赏。

COURTESY OF SFIC

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Creative Carpets Catherine Shaw discovers one of Hong Kong’s most innovative makers of custom rugs.

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WHEN HONG KONG RESTAURATEUR Bonnae Gokson was planning the interiors of her iconic Sevva a few years ago, she visited House of Tai Ping, a local manufacturer of bespoke carpets. “I was especially attracted to one highly original piece,” she recalls. “It featured twelve different techniques and a delicate weave of various materials, including metallic lamé.” Although it was the most expensive sample in the showroom, she immediately saw what a compelling design statement it would make in one of the dining rooms of her large space. Gokson’s focus on providing a richly detailed experience for her customers reflects a growing appetite worldwide among luxury restaurants and hotels for more distinctive contemporary interiors. With minimal designs often at the fore, the imaginative selection of rugs has become as critical as that of the furniture, lighting, and art. Jean-Pierre Tortil, Tai Ping’s Paris-based global creative director, has noticed rising interest on the part of designers and architects in signature rugs with a handcrafted aesthetic. The company, which was founded in 1956 to help provide employment for refugees, has a reputation for creative collaboration with the local and international design communities. Leading venues around the world feature its products, including the

几年前，香港餐厅主理人郭志怡创立了知名 Sevva 餐厅。在规划室内装潢时，她参观了当地地毯订制公司太平地毯。她回忆说：「一张极具独创性的地毯深深吸引着我，不仅采用 12 种不同技术，还选用各式精致材料织成，如金属丝织。」尽管是展示厅里最昂贵的样品，郭志怡立刻察觉到它的潜在影响力－它能为宽敞餐厅其中一个用餐区带来炫丽设计感。郭志怡致力于为顾客提供丰富细腻的体验，这也反映出奢华餐厅与酒店都愈加崇尚现代感鲜明的室内装潢。细致的设计通常最先映入顾客眼帘，因此运用想像力选择地毯，也已经变得和选择家具、灯光和艺术品一样重要。太平地毯驻巴黎的全球创意总监 JeanPierre Tortil 察觉到，设计师与建筑师越来越喜欢具有手工美感的特色地毯。太平地毯公司于 1956 年创立，为难民提供就业机会，多年来与当地及国际设计业界皆有创新合作，声名远播。许多知名场所都有摆设他们的产品，包括巴黎雅典娜广场酒店 Patrick Jouin 的作品、纽约 Baccarat 酒店 Gilles & Boissier 的作品，和巴黎 Le Meurice 酒店 Philippe Starck 的作品。香港建筑师傅厚民是太平地毯公司的艺术合作伙伴之一，他表示：「手工簇绒地毯不但有迷人的手工品质，还能为空间带来强烈情感。」傅厚民与太平地毯公司合作紧密，将不同厚度和线圈高度，例如羊绒、羊毛、乳胶、竹子和丝绸，在地毯上创造出独特质地。傅厚民重新装修东京

TAI PING AND MANDARIN ORIENTAL BARCELONA BY PATRICIA URQUIOLA, PEACOCK (RIGHT )

创意遍地

TAI PING AND MANDARIN ORIENTAL BARCELONA BY PATRICIA URQUIOLA, ENTRANCE (LEFT )

DESIGN

“Peacock” by Patricia Urquiola for the “BistrEau” restaurant at Mandarin Oriental Hotel Barcelona; wool and silk hand-tufted rug 巴塞罗纳文华东方酒店的BistrEau餐厅，摆放着建筑师Patricia Urquiola以羊毛和丝绸制成的手工簇绒地毯《孔雀》

DESIGN

Custom handmade rug designed by André Fu for the Opus Suite at The Berkeley, London; in wool, bamboo, silk and lurex

work of Patrick Jouin at the Plaza Athénée in Paris, that of Gilles & Boissier at Baccarat hotel in New York, and that of Philippe Starck at hotel Le Meurice in Paris. According to Hong Kong architect André Fu, another of Tai Ping’s artistic collaborators, “A hand-tufted rug has an intriguingly artisan quality and the ability to generate strong emotions within a space.” Fu worked closely with Tai Ping to create unique textures with materials like cashmere, wool, latex, bamboo, and silk in varying thicknesses and pile heights in the same rug. In his renovation of the Motif Restaurant & Bar at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo, Fu installed a calligraphy-inspired pure silk design called Lustre in a soft palette of mustard, mineral blue, and mauve. His ultra-luxury designs in earthy shades also feature prominently in the spectacular Opus suite at The Berkeley hotel in London. At Hong Kong’s CÉ LA VI restaurant, AB Concept’s founder and designer Ed

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Ng enhanced the rustic-luxe Asian theme with two hand-tufted Tai Ping creations: a design with the vibrant colors of bird feathers for the main dining area and a pattern inspired by Balinese floral carvings for the lounge. “A well-designed rug demarcates functionality,” says Ng. “It also sets the tone, softens the mood, and improves the acoustics. The pattern, color, and material composition align with the overall palette and story to ensure a perfect integration.” In Barcelona, this same approach is showcased to masterful effect by architect Patricia Urquiola in her collection of rugs at the Mandarin Oriental hotel. The standout is a vast silk carpet along the catwalk entrance that reflects the building’s distinguished heritage and adds a touch of sensuous luxury in a design blending tradition and modernity. “There’s been a reaction against massproduced products,” says Tai Ping’s Tortil. “Designers are creating one-off patterns that embrace the extraordinary.”

丸之内四季酒店 Motif 餐厅及酒吧时，受到书法启发，以黄芥末、矿蓝和淡紫色调出柔和色彩，设计成真丝制品，名为光泽。在伦敦柏凯丽酒店壮观的 Opus 套房里，也能看见他设计的大地色豪奢作品，别具特色。奥必概念公司创办人兼设计师伍仲匡以选用两张太平地毯的手工簇绒创作，为香港 CÉ LA VI 餐厅的亚洲华美质朴风格锦上添花。它以鲜明的鸟类羽毛色彩设计而成，主要摆放于用餐区，另一张图样灵感来自巴里岛花雕的则用在大厅。伍仲匡指出：「一张设计精良的地毯会界定功能性，订下基调，缓和心情，并改善隔音。为确保地毯和环境完美融合，它的图样、颜色、材料成分都必须与整体色调一致。」在巴塞罗纳，建筑师 Patricia Urquiola 以相同方法设计出文华东方酒店的一系列地毯，并展现绝佳效果。其中沿着入口摆放的大型丝织地毯最为出色，充分反映建筑物的遗留特色，并增添了奢华美感。太平地毯的 Jean-Pierre 表示：「大众已不再热衷大量制造的商品，设计师因此要创造出绝无仅有的图样，独树一格。」

TAI PING AND THE BERKELEY HOTEL , LONDON (LEFT ) TAI PING AND CÉ LA VI HONG KONG (RIGHT TOP), TAI PING AND FOUR SEASONS TOKYO (RIGHT BOTTOM)

建筑师傅厚民以羊毛、竹子、丝绸和乳胶制成的大地色手工地毯使伦敦柏凯丽酒店的 Opus 套房更显华贵

Custom handmade rug designed by André Fu for MOTIF restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo, Marunouchi 傅厚民设计的手工地毯遍布全球，代表作之一为放置在东京丸之内四季酒店 Motif餐厅的作品

A 3.4 x 6-meter handmade rug designed by André Fu for MOTIF salon at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo, Marunouchi; 100% wool, cut and loop pile 东京丸之内四季酒店Motif 餐厅的社交沙龙区放有一张3.4 x 6米，由傅厚民设计、以全羊毛制成的手工地毯

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

择器有道

Culinary Symbiosis

RED DOG STUDIO

Gaggenau collaborates with some of today’s most celebrated chefs to bring professional-level skills to serious home cooks.

TK | SPRING SOJOURN

Mixologist Jay Khan, Chef Richard Ekkebus, Chef Vicky Cheng, Chef Tam Kwok Fung, Chef Michael Pretet and Chef Marike van Beurden.

SPRING SOJOURN | TK |

GAGGENAU IS KNOWN FOR its embrace of the best in culinary culture and for all that unites people who have a taste for good living. Recently, at its sleek cutting-edge showroom in Hong Kong, the company united some of the region’s most renowned chefs for the launch of its Culinary Artisan Masterclass series, which is designed to let professionals share their knowledge and experience with home chefs eager to up their game. “I love to work with students,” says chef Richard Ekkebus of Amber, the famed two-Michelin star modern French restaurant. “The legacy of any chef is to produce lots of future chefs.” The stellar lineup of talent is slated to teach students how to prepare specific dishes with the help of Gaggenau’s cookfriendly appliances and also to offer personal insights on the importance of the best ingredients and produce. The starting point of Gaggenau’s philosophy is exactly that: highquality raw ingredients in the hands of a culinary craftsman working with the best equipment will shine without a lot of added extras. Chefs and Gaggenau seem to share an almost symbiotic relationship. While chefs love to work with Gaggenau products because they exceed their toughest requirements, Gaggenau continually benefits from a productive exchange with chefs, whose craftsmanship and creativity they deeply respect. Both share common values of tradition, innovation, and a continuing pursuit of excellence. Gaggenau has always been in the business of developing domestic kitchen appliances that meet the highest professional standards, equipment manufactured with top-grade materials for longevity, aesthetic appeal, and technical precision. “When I talk to the upscale clients I meet in the restaurant,” says chef Tam Kwok Fung of Macau’s two-Michelin-star Jade Dragon, “they often mention Gaggenau – they’re the Rolls Royce of kitchens! User-friendly appliances and tools are so important.”

TK | spring sojourn

德国厨房电器品牌 Gaggenau 致力于打造最高品质的烹饪文化，以及凝聚追求优质生活的人们。近来它在位于港岛南区先进豪华的展厅里开设一系列星级大师班烹饪课程，邀请本地赫赫有名的厨师授课。十位名厨将透过课程，与各位希望让厨艺更进一步的家庭厨师分享下厨的宝贵知识和经验。荣获米其林二星的法国餐厅 Amber 总厨 Richard Ekkebus 表示：「我很喜欢跟学生一起做事，厨师的传承意义在于培养更多厨师。」厨艺高手齐聚一堂，不单是为了教导学生如何透过运用 Gaggenau 的厨具来烹调菜色，也希望与他们分享独特见解，使他们更了解食材的重要性。该系列烹饪课程宣扬的理念是：使用最佳厨具和高品质的新鲜食品，无需多余雕饰，你也可成为厨艺界佼佼者。厨师与 Gaggenau 之间似乎有一种共生的关系：厨师们喜爱用 Gaggenau 的厨具，因为它不仅满足甚至超越了他们最严苛的要求与期待；Gaggenau 总是积极主动地与厨师们交流，获取经验，同时尊重他们的技艺和创意。两者的价值观极其相似：传统、创新，持续追求卓越。 Gaggenau 长期以来致力于开发高规格的专业厨房设备，采用顶级材料制造，追求的是耐用、美感与精密技术。澳门米其林二星餐厅誉珑轩总厨谭国锋说：「有时在餐厅与上流社会的顾客聊天，常听他们提起 Gaggenau －堪称厨具界的劳斯莱斯！好用的厨房用具真的很重要。」谭师傅介绍说，对于想要精通传统中式蒸煮菜色的家庭厨师来说，Gaggenau 嵌入式蒸烤炉和蒸炉是必不可少的。将专业的厨具技术应用在一般厨房家电中，是 Gaggenau 源源不断的灵感来源。品牌也总是把使用者的需求纳入设计考量，不论是咖啡机、烹饪灶具或吸油烟机，Gaggenau 生产的一系列厨房电器皆会遵循这项原则。香港置地文华东方酒店的厨艺总监 Richard Ekkebus，对 Gaggenau 的设计哲学所创造的优势，有第一线的观察与掌握：「我们刚在酒店盖好崭新的套房公寓，」他表示，「厨房电器我选用 Gaggenau，家里也是，我喜欢他们的产品，尤其是烤箱，找不到更好的了。设计非常漂亮，简单的线条加上不锈钢的美感，而且很好保养。它们的知名烤箱太漂亮了，简直应该放进博物馆陈列。」事实上，Gaggenau 的经典 90

RED DOG STUDIO

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

Michael Pretet and Tam Kwok Fung

spring sojourn

TK |

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

TK | SPRING SOJOURN

RED DOG STUDIO

Jay Khan and Richard Ekkebus

Tam cites the Gaggenau combi-steam oven and steamer as indispensable for home chefs who want to master the classic steamed dishes that are such a part of traditional Chinese cuisine. Successfully adapting these technologies of the professional kitchen for use in private homes is a continuing source of inspiration for Gaggenau. The home user’s intuition is always critical in Gaggenau’s design, and its entire line, from espresso machines to cooktops and ventilation equipment, is made with that principle in mind. Richard Ekkebus has firsthand knowledge of the benefits of Gaggenau’s philosophy, particularly in his role as Culinary Director of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. “We’ve just built brand-new apartment suites at The Landmark,” he says, “and I chose Gaggenau appliances – my own house is equipped with them too. I love the equipment, particularly the ovens, which are as good as they get. The design is beautiful – it’s the aesthetics of stainless steel with the simple clean finish and ease of maintenance. Their famous oven is so beautiful, it’s in a museum.” Indeed, Gaggenau’s classic 90cm wide model EB388 is on display at the Museum of Modern Art in New York and will be relaunched later this year. Marike van Beurden’s award-winning career in pâtisserie has taken her to some of the world’s greatest kitchens. Today she runs a consulting company and a private cooking school, and she can’t wait to share her skills with Masterclass participants: “Pastry is a lot like science – if there’s one little thing missing, then it doesn’t work. If you don’t have a good oven, ventilation speed can change, there can be unequal heat transmission, the display can be inaccurate.” Michael Pretet, the talented young pastry chef at Amber, agrees: “You can start with a good recipe, but without a good oven it’s nothing!” Gaggenau’s technological advancements in building the best ovens can be traced throughout its long history. The name Gaggenau is associated with the Black

厘米宽的 EB 388 烤箱的确在纽约现代艺术博物馆展出，今年下半年将再度推出。屡获奖项的糕点厨师 Marike van Beurden 曾经参观过许多全球最棒的厨房。如今她经营自己的顾问公司和厨艺学校，迫不及待想和参与 Gaggenau 烹饪课程的学生分享经验：「制作糕点与科学无异，过程中缺少任何一样东西都不行。如果没有一台好烤箱，通风速度会改变，热气传导不均，烤箱显示器上的数字就可能不精准。」对此， Amber 餐厅的烘焙主厨 Michael Pretet 表示同意：「就算有很棒的糕点食谱，没有好烤箱，就等于零！」 Gaggenau 打造顶级烤箱的技术演进有着久远的历史，其名称取自于十七世纪创立时所在的德国黑森林区域，对于追求精巧工艺的信念由此扎根，延续至今成为品牌的优良传统。例如，在生产第一代搪瓷烤箱时便深刻掌握烤箱特性，奠定 Gaggenau 现代家电的基石。 Gaggenau 全球品牌负责人 Sven Schnee 解释道：「每次想到品牌历经 333 年的茁壮成长，自 1683 年以来始终坚持品牌价值，就对这样的非凡成就感到光荣。对品质从不妥协的原则，塑造出 Gaggenau 强烈的品牌识别，是品牌 DNA 的一部分。Gaggenau 专注服务特定市场客群，代表着原创设计、精选材质，以及全程于欧洲小规模生产制造的承诺。我们的产品不论是在功能、工艺和耐久技术等方面均达业界最高标准。」米其林星级餐厅 VEA 行政总厨 Vicky Cheng 说：「我家里也是用 Gaggenau 这个品牌。我最近去展示中心看过，印象很深刻－所有设备都非常精巧美观，将产品形象提升到更高的层次。他们精细地研发厨师日常会使用的设备，像是配有真空低温慢煮功能的蒸烤炉。同时兼顾时尚，好看又好用。有了 Gaggenau，厨房不再平凡单调。」 Gaggenau 产品包罗万象，举凡冰酒器、冰箱、冰柜等等，专为各范畴的烹调大师设计，包括获奖的香港调酒师 Jay Khan 在内：「对经营酒吧的人来说，冰柜非常重要。我们在 Foxglove 酒吧甚至自己制冰－香港没几家酒吧这么做。干净的自制冰块能让饮料从 A 变成 A+。」 Gaggenau 专业的厨房家电，带领每个在家下厨的人追求更卓越的表现，同时追求「从 A 到 A+」的成就感。 spring sojourn

TK |

Forest where the company was founded in the seventeenth century. Its bedrock value of fine craftsmanship began there and has been part of the brand’s tradition ever since. Methods perfected in the production of the first enameled ovens, for instance, laid the foundation for creating Gaggenau’s modern home appliances. Sven Schnee, Head of Global Brand Gaggenau, explains: “It’s extraordinary to think that Gaggenau has been over 333 years in the making and that our brand values have remained unchanged since 1683. The quest for uncompromising quality is an essential part of our DNA today. As an exclusive niche brand, Gaggenau stands for authentic design, select materials, and small-series production manufactured entirely in Europe. Our products satisfy the highest standards of functionality, craftsmanship, and technical durability.” “I know the Gaggenau brand,” says Vicky Cheng, chef at Michelin-starred VEA Restaurant & Lounge, “because I use it at home. I recently came to the showroom here and was really impressed – it’s very glamorous and they’ve taken it to another level. So much thought has gone into their combisteam oven with sous vide function, things that you use every day as a chef. And it’s also very fashionable, looks great, and works well. With Gaggenau, it’s no longer an ordinary kitchen.” The wide range of Gaggenau products, including wine coolers, fridges, and freezers, is designed for every variety of culinary artisan, including award-winning mixologists like Hong Kong native Jay Khan: “In the bar business freezers are very important. At Foxglove we even make our own ice – not many bars in Hong Kong do that. Perfectly clear blocks of homemade ice can help take a drink from good to great.” “From good to great” – the same might be said of the direction in which Gaggenau’s professional-level appliances can take the culinary accomplishments of every home chef.

TK | spring sojourn

RED DOG STUDIO

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

Vicky Cheng and Marike van Beurden

SPRING SOJOURN | TK |

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

PARTICIPATING CHEFS

RICHARD EKKEBUS

MICHAEL PRETET

Culinary Director, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

Pastry Chef, Amber, Hong Kong

As Culinary Director of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, Richard Ekkebus oversees all cuisine at one of the city’s most luxurious hotels. Under his supervision, the hotel’s modern French restaurant, Amber, has received two Michelin stars for nine years running. A native of The Netherlands, Ekkebus began his illustrious career there under renowned chefs Hans Snijders and Robert Kranenborg before perfecting his art under some of the greatest chefs in France, including Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Passard, and Guy Savoy.

As Pastry Chef at Amber at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, since 2015, Michael Pretet has won accolades that include the title Best Pastry Chef from Hong Kong Tatler Best Restaurants Guide. His training at prestigious French culinary schools included specializations in chocolate, sugar art, bread, and viennoiserie. Pretet has been with Michelinstarred restaurants at Hôtel Le K2 Palace and Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, and at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva and Hôtel & Spa Du Castellet.

Richard Ekkebus 担任香港置地文华东方

文华东方酒店担任烘焙主厨，屡获荣誉，

酒店的厨艺总监，负责监督此全港最奢

包括香港名流杂志 Tatler 最佳食府指南

华酒店的所有菜色。在他的督导下，酒店内的现代法国餐厅 Amber 连续九年荣获米其林两颗星。 Richard 生于荷兰，先在家乡师从于知名大厨 Hans Snijders 与 Robert Kranenborg，其后赴法国向

Michael Pretet 自 2015 年起在香港置地

最佳糕饼师荣衔。他曾在数间知名的法国厨艺学校受训，擅长制作巧克力、甜品、面包和维也纳面包。他的履历相当精彩，曾任职于不少知名酒店内的米其林星级餐厅，如法国皇宫级大酒店之一的 Hôtel

Pierre Gagnaire、Alain Passard、Guy Savoy 等人学艺，手艺日益纯熟，成就

日内瓦的贝尔格四季酒店与法国勒卡斯

辉煌的烹饪生涯。

雷酒店 Hôtel & Spa Du Castellet。

TAM KWOK FUNG 谭国锋

Le K2 Palace、Cap d’Antibes 海滩酒店、

JAY KHAN

Director of Culinary Operations, Melco Crown Entertainment

Group Beverage Manager, Foxglove, Hong Kong

As Director of Culinary Operations of Melco Crown Entertainment, Tam Kwok Fung also serves as head chef of two-Michelinstar Jade Dragon and helms one-Michelin-star Pearl Dragon at Studio City. With more than three decades of experience in Cantonese fine dining, Tam’s career has taken him across China, Hong Kong, and Thailand, where he routinely cooked for the royal family, as well as a host of politicians and presidents. Chef Tam was formerly Executive Chinese Chef at The Peninsula Bangkok.

Jay Khan went to Melbourne in 2009 to work at the Alchemist and Emerald Peacock bars before coming back to HK to lead the team at Lily & Bloom. A fan of mezcal and tequila, he was in his element at Agave before he opened Post 97. After stints at Galaxy Macau and Wynn Palace Cotai, Khan returned to lead the bar at Foxglove and to become group beverage manager over Ming Fat House, Mrs. Pound, and Dr. Ferns Gin Parlour.

谭国锋不仅是澳门新濠博亚娱乐的餐饮

2009 年，Jay Khan 前往墨尔本，先后在 Alchemist、Emerald Peacock 等酒吧工作，后返回香港，带领 Lily & Bloom 美

部厨艺总监，亦是获米其林二星的誉珑

式餐厅的工作团队。最爱梅斯卡尔酒与

轩总厨，同时掌理新濠影汇的米其林一

龙舌兰酒的 Jay 先在 Agave 酒吧磨练，

星玥龙轩。谭总厨三十多年来致力创造精致广东菜，足迹遍布中国大陆、香港

技巧得心应手后，便开设 Post 97 酒吧。后来在澳门银河酒店与澳门路氹永利皇

及泰国，经常被钦点为皇室、各国元首、

宫工作，接着回 Foxglove 带领酒吧团队，

政界人士烹煮菜色。谭国锋曾担任曼谷

并身兼中菜馆明发食家、Mrs. Pound 与 Dr. Ferns Gin Parlour 酒吧的经理。

半岛酒店的中菜行政总厨。

MARIKE VAN BEURDEN

IP CHI CHEUNG 叶志祥

MAY CHOW 周思薇

Pastry Chef & Owner, Marike van Beurden Consulting Ltd, Hong Kong

Executive Chinese Chef, Summer Palace, Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong

Chef & Owner, Little Bao, Hong Kong and Bangkok

After studying her art in the Netherlands, Marike van Beurden worked in London under Pierre Gagnaire and in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurant Le Cinq at Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. At the famed Maison Pic in Valence, she worked with Anne Sophie Pic, the first female chef of a Michelin-three-star restaurant. Most recently, she was Pastry Chef at Caprice at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, and she now leads her own company, Marike van Beurden Consulting Ltd.

As Executive Chinese Chef of two-Michelin-star Summer Palace at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong, Ip Chi Cheung places emphasis on aroma, color, taste, texture, and contrast, resulting in dishes with more distinctive character than conventional Cantonese cuisine. Ip was previously at Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong, where for sixteen years he held the identical position at the Shang Palace, which also was Michelin-starred. He has also been at the Aberdeen Marina Club, a premier private club operated by Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts.

Named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017, May Chow became an overnight sensation when she opened her first restaurant, Little Bao, in 2013. Drawing on her Chinese heritage and American upbringing, Little Bao demonstrates her insight into crossover trends between food and lifestyle. Chow, who holds a degree in hotel and restaurant management from Boston University, continues to pair her culinary expertise and eye for design with an understanding of service style. In 2016, she opened Little Bao Bangkok and Chinese gastropub Second Draft.

艺，后远赴伦敦，在 Pierre Gagnaire 的麾下受训，并进入巴黎乔治五世四季酒

叶志祥是港岛香格里拉大酒店、获米

人周思薇一夜之间成为全城焦点，更评

其林二星的夏宫中餐主厨，做菜时强

为 2017 年亚洲最佳女厨师。她根据自

店的星级餐厅 Le Cinq 工作。她曾在法国瓦朗斯的皮克之家与赫赫有名、第

调香气、色泽、口味、口感和对比，

己对的中餐的了解和在美国长大的经历，

因此相较传统广东菜，他的料理更显

在小包包引领食物和生活态度的跨界风

一位在米其林三星餐厅工作的女厨师

独到新颖。主厨曾任职于香格里拉酒

潮。曾在波士頓大学修读酒店及餐厅管

Anne Sophie Pic 共事。她是香港四季酒店法国餐厅 Caprice 的前糕点总厨，目前经营自己的公司 Marike van Beurden Consulting Ltd。

店集团的尊贵私人会所－深湾游艇会，

理，她的服务风格揉合专业餐饮知识和

并且在九龙香格里拉大饭店同誉为米

独到设计触觉。2016 年，她大展拳脚，

其林星级餐厅的香宫工作十六年，担

于泰国曼谷开设小包包分店，还有香港

任固定职位。

的中式小酒馆 Second Draft。

Marike van Beurden 先在荷兰研习厨

LAU YIU FAI 刘耀辉

VICKY CHENG

2013 年小包包餐厅开幕时，主厨兼创办

MOK KIT KEUNG 莫杰强

Executive Chinese Chef, Yan Toh Heen, InterContinental Hong Kong

Chef & Owner, VEA Restaurant & Lounge, Hong Kong

Executive Chinese Chef, Shang Palace, Kowloon Shangri-La Hong Kong

A remarkable history with InterContinental Hong Kong began for Lau Yiu Fai when he joined the Chinese banquet kitchen in 1980 and later became part of the opening team for Yan Toh Heen. He relocated to Canada in 1993 to work for four years at a top Chinese restaurant in Vancouver. Lau rejoined InterContinental Hong Kong in 2000 to helm Yan Toh Heen’s kitchen, and under his leadership the restaurant has been awarded two Michelin stars for three consecutive years.

Born in Hong Kong and raised with Western influences, Vicky Cheng started off as a classically trained chef working under some of the most highly respected French masters, including Daniel Boulud. Cheng acquired knowledge that laid the foundations for the culinary excellence of VEA Restaurant & Lounge today. He combines the precision of French techniques with an emphasis on authentic fresh seasonal products from around the world. In 2016 VEA was awarded its first Michelin star.

As executive Chinese chef of Michelinstarred Shang Palace at Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong, since 2011, Mok Kit Keung oversees an experienced team of chefs and is responsible for all of the hotel’s Chinese food production. He previously served as chef de cuisine at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. Mok, who trained in traditional Cantonese cuisine and has more than thirty-five years of experience, has prepared meals for King Mohammed VI of Morocco and many other globally prominent dignitaries and celebrities.

Vicky Cheng 生于香港，深受西方文化

莫杰强自 2011 年起 , 于九龙香格里拉大酒店获颁米其林星级肯定的香宫餐厅担任主厨 , 带领经验资深的厨师 , 统理酒店料理的中国菜。莫主厨曾是新加坡滨海湾金沙酒店的总厨 , 擅长炮制传统广东菜 , 已有三十五年以上的经验。他也曾为摩洛哥王国国王穆罕默德六世与各国皇室、名人烹制美食。

1980 年，刘耀辉任职于香港洲际酒店的

影响，曾接受备受尊崇的法国大师如

中菜宴会厨房，其后成为欣图轩的创始

Daniel Boulud 等人的正统训练，以累积

成员。 1993 年前往加拿大，为温哥华一间顶级中菜馆工作四年，之后于 2000

的知识为 VEA 餐厅提供极致美味料理打

年重回香港洲际酒店掌理欣图轩。在其

巧的精准及坚持使用全球各地当令，尤

领导下，欣图轩三年来连续保持米其林

以亚洲为主的新鲜食材。 2016 年，VEA 拿下米其林一星的荣耀。

二星的荣誉。

下坚实基础。总厨的料理，追求法国技

spring sojourn

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TASTING NEWS

海洋珍味

Flavors f rom the Sea

Alain Ducasse unveils the second reincarnation of a venerable Paris institution.

XL Eclair, Chocolate & Vanilla 香草和巧克力口味的特大闪电泡芙

TK | spring sojourn

Pastry Chef François Delaire and Executive Chef Stéphane Gortina

PIERRE MONETTA (5)

饼房主厨 François Delaire 及行政主厨 Stéphane Gortina

Grenobloise-style Skate Wing 传统格勒诺布尔风味魔鬼鱼 spring sojourn

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new life into what had become a rather staid institution. In 2012, he brought in designer Marie Deroudilhe to completely revamp the interior. She has reprised much of the spirit of that project in the Hong Kong iteration by employing the same natural materials that bring to mind airy seaside themes. Lamps by designer Céline Wright were handcrafted in Paris from thousands of rice paper fragments to suggest soaring clouds by day and Chinese lanterns by night. Both venues feature Jean-Pierre Guilleron’s fish paintings based on the traditional Japanese gyotaku print process, in which rubbings on paper are made from actual fish. The designs are echoed on plates from French porcelain maker Pillivuyt. And Belgian ceramist Pieter Stockmans has fashioned custom tableware in deep-sea shades of cobalt blue. “Branca” chairs designed by Britisher Sam Hecht recall satiny driftwood. Each is manufactured robotically by Mattiazzi of Italy from a solid slab of beech. Tables display weighty rocks retrieved from Brittany beaches to serve as accent pieces and resting places for the housemade seaweed bread. Rech’s concentrated menu deals in essences and was conceived by Ducasse

in collaboration with Executive Chef Stéphane Gortina, who has worked at Ducasse establishments around the world. Featuring the best of France’s bounty of fish, oysters, and other shellfish, the selections reflect Ducasse’s highly personal interpretation of contemporary cuisine as well as the sea’s variety that changes with the seasons. Most of the seafood is sourced from small-scale independent fishermen using environmentally responsible methods. Four types of specialty French oysters are offered, and the raw menu includes marinated and ingeniously garnished sea scallops, bonito fish, wild cod, and mackerel. Notable starters are the “club” crab and mango and Rech’s famous hearty cookpot of tiny spelt, squid, and sesame seeds. Main dishes include pan-seared large sole with half-salted butter and tiny potatoes as well as a Grenobloise-style Skate Wing. And from Normandy comes the only cheese served at Rech, their renowned whole creamy Camembert matured between twenty and thirty days. The trademark dessert remains a disc of silky hazelnut ice cream sandwiched between crisp hazelnut meringues, drenched in warm chocolate, and aptly named Mr. Rech.

PIERRE MONETTA (2)

LIGHT FLOODS THROUGH sky-high windows looking out on Victoria Harbour, filling the space with the bracing brightness of the open ocean. Nothing could feel more fitting for a restaurant devoted to delicious things from the deep. “To appreciate beautiful seafood,” Alain Ducasse says of his approach, “is to appreciate its personality by knowing how to reveal all the subtlety of flavors.” Never timid about new ventures, Ducasse, the ruler of a worldwide dining empire studded with Michelin stars, has installed with great finesse a freshly imagined version of Rech, his famous Paris venue, in the space formerly occupied by SPOON at InterContinental Hong Kong. Made over at lightning speed since January, Rech by Alain Ducasse recently opened its doors for dinner and Sunday lunch. The original Rech was founded in Paris in 1925 by an Alsatian, Adrien Rech, whose modest grocery morphed into a chic little café with a clientele that came to savor the finest oysters of France, lavishly abundant in the seafood stalls surrounding the restaurant. Through the decades, Rech solidified its status as one of the city’s culinary cornerstones. But then in 2007, Alain Ducasse took charge and breathed

TASTING NEWS

从维多利亚港放眼望去，海面粼粼波光映入高窗，照耀用餐空间，搭配餐厅料理的鲜美食材再适合不过。Alain Ducasse 阐述他的理念：「要让顾客品味海鲜的鲜美，就必须先了解海鲜的迷人之处，知道该如何展现味道的全部精髓。」美食版图遍布全球，米其林星级餐厅重要领导者 Alain Ducasse，对于开拓新事业毫无畏惧。他选择在香港洲际酒店之前著名餐厅 SPOON 的空间，设立旗下巴黎知名餐厅 Rech 的分店。自一月起，Alain Ducasse 的 Rech 餐厅以闪电般的速度重新装潢，开始供应晚餐和周日午餐。 Rech 餐厅最初由亚尔萨斯人 Adrien Rech 创立，于 1925 年在巴黎开业，将小型食品杂货店改造成别致餐厅，大量的生蚝摆放在海产摊上，蜂拥而至的顾客只为一品法国最鲜美的生蚝。历经数十年， Rech 餐厅成为巴黎料理界的重要基石之一。 2007 年，Alain Ducasse 接管 Rech，为这间相对陈旧的餐厅注入新活力。 2012 年，他请设计师 Marie Deroudil-

he 操刀，改造室内装修。她为香港分店重新复刻巴黎餐厅的经典风格时，也采用相同素材，仿如置身微风轻拂的海滨。灯具由设计师 Céline Wright 于巴黎手工制造，以无数宣纸片制成，白天仰望有如高空白云，晚上又如悬挂的中国灯笼。两地餐厅都摆设了 Jean-Pierre Guilleron 鱼拓画的原作，采用传统日本鱼拓画绘制方法，拓印原型来自真正的鱼。艺术家的设计也与法国瓷器制造商 Pillivuyt 的盘子相呼应。比利时陶瓷艺术家 Pieter Stockmans 以钴蓝的深海色调，为餐厅设计出专属餐具。「Branca」椅出自英国设计师 Sam Hecht 之手，以光滑浮木为灵感。每张椅子皆由意大利木质家具品牌 Mattiazzi 以实心山毛榉木板制成。每块摆放着手工紫菜面包的石头，皆取材自布列塔尼海滩的沉重巨石，成为餐厅内的重要装饰。 Rech 的精制菜单是由 Alain 和过去曾在 Alain Ducasse 餐饮集团旗下各地餐厅担任主厨的 Stéphane Gortina 共同构思。餐

厅以法国最优质的鲜鱼、生蚝和其他贝类海产闻名，这些代表性食材不仅充分反映 Alain 对于当代美食的个人诠释，也凸显大海随季节改变的多样化。大部分的海鲜来源于独立且小规模捕捞的渔夫，以对环境友善的方式捕获。餐厅提供四种法国生蚝，冷盘菜单包含精心搭配的腌制海扇贝、鲣鱼、野鳕鱼和鲭鱼。特色头盘有蟹、芒果和 Rech 餐厅出名的丰盛小麦锅，食材包括小麦、乌贼与芝麻。主菜包含香煎龙利鱼佐半咸奶油和切块马铃薯，还有传统格勒诺布尔风味的魔鬼鱼。而 Rech 餐厅唯一供应的金文毕起司产自诺曼第，软质乳酪口感浓滑，需要二十到三十天制成。最后，Rech 餐厅端出经典甜品，法式冧酒蛋糕搭配冧酒及香草鲜奶油，还有香草或巧克力口味的特大闪电泡芙。然而，餐厅的代表甜点还是榛果酥饼包裹丝滑榛果冰淇淋，浸在热巧克力中，巧妙的命名为「Rech 先生」。

Fresh oysters and seafood from France 来自法国的鲜美海产

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FEATURE

大地的恩赐

Touching the Soil An Italian chef in Tokyo draws inspiration from the bounty of Japan’s small farms.

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COURTESY OF SHANGRI-LA TOKYO

LOCAL FARMS ARE A PRECIOUS RESOURCE

for chefs when it comes to tracking down the highest quality seasonal ingredients. And for Tokyo-based chef Andrea Ferrero, they also offer endless inspiration for his creative approach to contemporary Italian food. “It’s incredibly exciting when you find things that are so beautiful that you just want to use them right away.” he says. Ferrero, Executive Chef since 2014 at Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo, is an ardent supporter of Japan’s farm-to-table movement. His regular visits to some of the country’s most extraordinary small producers in remote rural areas are featured in a series of the chef ’s online videos that highlight a side of Japan a world away from the capital. One of the unsung heroes whose produce is among the staples on Ferrero’s menus is the Onishi Herb Farm in Aomori prefecture. “Onishi-san has a truly amazing garden with about a thousand different herbs,” says Ferrero. “Many I didn’t know about, even though they’re Mediterranean. They’re so special,” he adds with a laugh, “that I’d fight to my last drop of blood to have them in my kitchen.” Even when such prime local ingredients

Tokyo-based Italian chef Andrea Ferrero believes knowing the farmer is the best way to source the finest quality seasonal ingredients. 派驻东京的主厨Andrea Ferrero 深信，和农夫们交流是发掘当季品质最好食材的最佳方法。

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Piacere at the Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo, is renowned for its contemporary Italian cuisine

are used in small quantities, he says, the results can be dramatic. For instance, a super-high-fat cream sourced from Shiawase Farm in Iwate so transformed a simple béchamel sauce in Ferrero’s lasagne at the hotel’s Piacere restaurant that ever since the dish’s introduction, guests have continued asking about the “‘secret ingredient.” Ferrero, whose career has taken him to France, Spain, Dubai, and Bali, moved to Japan following his role as executive chef at the Bulgari Hotel Milan. He believes that, wherever he may be, if he wants to find the very best produce, it’s essential to know the farmer. “For me, it’s like buying a painting – you want to meet the artist, and I treat food the same way as art.” He admits, however, that the challenges of sourcing at a personal scale can be daunting. With around 80 percent of Piacere’s ingredients produced in Japan, Ferrero sometimes finds that his supply is subject to the vagaries of weather and the stiff competition there is for premium products that

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are often available only in small quantities. One solution has been to update Piacere’s menu each month to reflect seasonal availability. “It’s difficult and time-consuming,” he says, “but it’s absolutely necessary.” Ferrero still imports from Italy such specialized ingredients as olive oil, San Marzano tomatoes, flours for breads and pastas, porcini mushrooms, and truffles. But his mozzarella and burrata now come from Tokyo‘s Shibuya Cheese Stand. “It’s produced fresh every day,” says Ferrero. “Why would I buy cheese that’s full of preservatives and wait four days for it to reach Japan from Italy when the quality here is so excellent?” Ferrero believes it helps that Japan has a cultural respect for culinary craftsmanship similar to Italy’s. “We have those small artisan suppliers, where you buy cheese from someone who makes ten a year and won’t simply let them go to a supermarket but will give each restaurant just one. They’re in love with their product, and it’s the same in Japan.”

In 2016, Ferrero decided to start filming his sourcing visits so he could share the skills and exceptional dedication of local farmers across Japan’s diverse culinary regions and help diners understand the extended operations involved in growing and gathering food. “The way these farmers interact with nature is simply amazing,” he says. “They master the elements by touching the soil, feeling the wind, and watching the sky. The process is masterful.” Meeting and talking with farmers, he finds, also helps build a better understanding of how to work with the products. “Knowing how food is grown gives us a deeper sense of our cooking. I think of it like a Formula 1 driver who has to know every detail of his car in order to push it to the maximum. It’s also a great responsibility,” he adds, recalling a recent visit to the Piacere kitchens by a pork farmer and his wife from Hasegawa Natural Farm in Aomori. “When she saw my slow-cooked pork loin dish, she was so happy, she cried.”

COURTESY OF SHANGRI-LA TOKYO (2)

以精致的当代意式料理闻名的东京香格里拉大酒店 Piacere 餐厅

FEATURE

Chef Andrea Ferrero’s wild Hokkaido venison features potato from Murakami Farm and wild sorrel from Onishi Herb Farm. 主厨 Andrea Ferrero 精心炮制的北海道虾夷鹿選用村上农场的马铃薯和大西香草园的野生酢浆草

当厨师想要取得当季品质最好的食材时，本地农场是他最珍贵的资源。对派驻东京的主厨 Andrea Ferrero 来说，农场为他的创新意大利料理带来了无限启发：「看到这些让人垂涎欲滴的食材真是兴奋不已，你会巴不得立刻把食材派上用场。」从 2014 年开始在东京香格里拉大酒店担任行政主厨的 Andrea，名副其实是个「从农场到餐桌」运动的热血支持者。他会定期拜访一些住在偏远农场的小农，拍成短片上传到网络名厨的系列影片中，呈现日本远离大都市的一面。 Andrea 菜单的其中一个幕后英雄，是青森县的大西香草园。「大西先生的香草园非常惊艳，有将近一千种香草。」Andrea 说道，「很多香草明明产自地中海区，我却从没见过。」他开怀地笑着说：「我愿意花一切代价获得那些香草，将它们带到我的厨房来。」即便少量食材，也能创造出无与伦比的美味。举例来说，岩手县幸福农场出产的超级鲜奶油，化身为 Piacere 餐厅 Andrea 千层面的白酱，顾客总是好奇询问那个「独门配方」究竟是什么？

Andrea 先后效力于法国、西班牙、杜拜、巴里岛的知名餐厅，来日本前曾担任米兰宝格丽度假酒店的行政主厨。他深信，不论身在何处，若想发掘极品食材，认识农夫就是关键：「这如同买画－你会想亲眼见到那位艺术家；而食物于我，就像艺术品一样。」他也承认，只能少量进货有时让人力不从心。Piacere 餐厅约有八成食材直接在日本购买，食材供应经常受限于季节更替，造成供货不稳；更棘手的是，虽然品质无可挑剔，却只能小额供货。解决方法就是每月随着季节变化更换 Piacere 的菜单。Andrea 说：「这非常困难也很花时间，但却是绝对必要的。」有些食材他还是会从意大利进口，像是橄榄油、圣马尔扎诺番茄、制作面包和意大利面用的面粉、牛肝菌和松露；但他会直接向东京涩谷的 Cheese Stand 购买莫札瑞拉和布拉塔起司。「起司是每天新鲜制作的。这里的起司品质这么好，我何必坚持买那些加了防腐剂、还要等四天才会从意大利送到日本来的起司？」 Andrea 相信日本与意大利有着同样的

文化精神，对于饮食工艺有着无限崇敬。「意大利有些像艺术家般小量生产的供应商。他一年就生产十块起司，只卖每家指定餐厅一块起司。他们深爱自己的产品，这点在日本也一样。」 2016 年，Andrea 决定将拜访农场的过程拍成短片。此举可将农夫的技术和专心一志的热诚分享给同在日本餐饮界的同业，并帮助客人深入了解食材从种植到收成的经历与过程：「这些农夫和大自然的互动方式让人赞叹不已。」他说 ,「他们透过碰触泥土、感受风向和观察天色解读大自然的讯息，是绝对的权威。」他认为和农夫们见面交流能帮助他更加深入了解这些食材，并将最美味的一面发挥出来：「了解食材的生长过程，能让料理更有深度。就像一个了解车子各项零件和细节的一级方程式赛车手，能将车子的性能发挥到极致，在赛场上突破极限。这也是个很重要的责任。」回想起有一次青森县猪肉供应商长谷川自然牧场的老板和夫人来到 Andrea 的厨房参观，他说：「夫人看到我的慢炖猪腰，她真的感到很开心，还感动到掉下眼泪。」 spring sojourn

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W Bangkok hotel was the scene of a gala ceremony in February announcing the muchanticipated list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017. Sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, the awards were based on the votes of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, an influential panel of more than three hundred leaders from the region’s restaurant industry, including food writers, critics, chefs, and restaurateurs who conduct a rigorous process each year to select the top culinary destinations. Along with five chefs whose restaurants lead the list, we’ll meet several more from among Asia’s best.

EASTMEETSBEST Behind Asia’s most admired restaurants are Asia’s most talented chefs.

曼谷 W 酒店于二月举办了万众期待的 2017 亚洲 50 最佳餐厅颁奖典礼。由圣培露 (S.Pellegrino) 和普娜 (Acqua Panna) 赞助，并由三百余位亚洲餐饮界具有影响力的人士所组成的「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」评审委员会选出，委员会成员包括美食作者、食评家、厨师以及餐厅业者等，每年通过严格程序票选出亚洲最值得探访的五十家一流餐厅。本文接下来介绍的除了囊括榜单前五名的餐厅外，还将有榜单内其他数家优秀餐厅。

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加上极高的烹饪智慧，使他成为最令人惊艳的厨师之一。

Gaggan 不仅被评为 2017 年泰国最佳餐厅，也一连三年夺得亚洲最佳餐厅的荣誉称号。

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COURTESY OF GAGGAN (LEFT ), ALLWECANDID (RIGHT )

Gaggan Anand, founder and chef of the restaurant that bears his name, is famed for innovative Indian food that combines classic ingredients with the most modern techniques. The Kolkata-born chef has made a whitewashed wooden colonial-style house in downtown Bangkok home to his culinary exploits. Describing his approach as “Progressive Indian,” Anand combines advanced technology with fond memories of Indian street food, drawing on the incredible diversity of Indian cooking for inspiration. He creates highly personal food that pushes but never crosses boundaries. That this remarkable restaurant exists at all is a wondrous stroke of fate. The charismatic chef confesses that the idea for Gaggan was the product of a drunken evening with friends. Expressing frustration about his previous jobs, 身兼老板和主厨的 Gaggan Anand，用自己的名字为餐厅命 Anand proposed opening a restaurant, and his tipsy compan名，创新印度菜色结合经典食材和最先进的烹饪技法。他生于 ions not only seconded the motion, they became his business 加尔各答，在曼谷市中心建造了殖民地风格的白色木造餐厅。 partners. Gaggan 说自己是「前卫的印度风味」，擅长结合先进技术与印 Anand’s sense of play is expressed in every aspect of the 度街头小吃的诱人风味，并从印度烹调的多元性中汲取灵感。 restaurant – the menu is written entirely in emojis and guests 料理的个人风格鲜明，不曾逾越界限，却一再到达新领域。 enjoy twenty-five diverting courses, with quirky interpretations Gaggan 餐厅诞生有一段巧妙机缘。Gaggan 坦承，某个 like “Indian sushi” and the rather scary-sounding “yogurt explo夜晚和几名朋友酒酣耳热之际，產生了开设 Gaggan 的想法。 sion.” Anand’s formative and memorable stint in the kitchen of 主厨坦言过往工作都不甚理想，便提议开餐厅，而微带酒意的 elBulli, combined with his highly developed gastronomic wit, 几个朋友不但附议，最后还成为事业伙伴。 have made him one of the most exciting chefs around. 走进餐厅，随处可现 Gaggan 爱玩活泼的性情：菜单 Indeed, in addition to holding the title Best Restaurant in 以表情符号写成，二十五种妙趣横生的菜肴深受顾客喜爱。 Thailand 2017, Gaggan has been named Best Restaurant in Asia Gaggan 早年在西班牙 elBulli 餐厅实习时便逐步展现高超技艺， for three consecutive years.

① Gaggan Bangkok, Thailand 泰国曼谷

② Restaurant André Singapore 新加坡

Chef-artist André Chiang’s elegant thirty-seat restaurant has moved up a notch in this year’s Asia’s 50 Best list, and it also retains the title of Best Restaurant in Singapore. It’s been a very successful run for the talented chef, with Restaurant ANDRÉ winning two stars in 2016 in the first-ever Michelin Guide Singapore. “It’s definitely a great start this year for my brigade,” says Chiang. “We opened in 2010, and we’ve never lost sight of our original intention, passion, and promise to our guests. We continue living up to expectations and pushing the boundaries to give Singapore and Asia a restaurant like no other.” Originally from Taiwan, Chiang spent his formative years in Japan and France, perfecting his skills and crafting a personal style before returning to Asia to open his own establishment. Chiang is known for a unique approach 今年，江振诚所开仅三十席的高雅餐厅在亚洲 50 最佳餐厅名单中跃 he calls Octaphilosophy, which is based on 升一等。依旧保有新加坡最佳餐厅荣衔的同时，这位厨师的成绩着实 eight guiding principles that inform his cuisine: 耀眼，2016 年 ANDRÉ 餐厅才刚夺下新加坡首份米其林指南的两颗星 unique, pure, texture, memory, salt, south, 荣耀。「今年确有个很棒的开始，」江振诚说，「2010 年开幕至今，我们仍不忘初衷、热情，以及对顾客的承诺。我们持续努力满足顾客期待，挑战新的可能，要在新加坡以至亚洲独树一帜。」来自台湾的他先后赴日本、法国学艺，锻炼技巧，形塑风格，后回到亚洲开设餐厅。江振诚以独到的八角哲学著称，创作菜色是由八大原素融汇而成：独特、纯粹、质、记忆、盐、南法、工艺与风土。他的菜肴以现有最佳食材制成，尽可能发挥食材原有优点，继而运用八角哲学创造出有趣独特的菜单。最近还出版一本记录餐厅一年菜色的食谱，读者得以一窥其充满想像力的烹饪风格。

COURTESY OF RESTAURANT ANDRÉ (2)

artisan, and terroir. Chiang’s dishes are always built around the best ingredients available each day. With an instinctive sense of how to get the most from his raw materials, he applies Octaphilosophy to create his intriguingly unusual tasting menus. Chiang recently published a cookbook charting 365 days in the restaurant and giving readers a remarkable glimpse into his imaginative culinary style.

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③ Amber Hong Kong, China 中国香港

COURTESY OF AMBER (3)

Amber’s Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus takes full advantage of Hong Kong’s status as an international port. With access to the finest ingredients the world has to offer, he selects only the best and transforms them into Amber’s astonishing cuisine. The dramatically appointed restaurant in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong attracts local and international crowds often brandishing cell phone cameras to immortalize the photogenic presentations Ekkebus is noted for. Although he may flirt with exotic ingredients, his heart belongs to classic French cooking. Under the tutelage of maestros like Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Passard, and Guy Savoy, Ekkebus built a strong foundation in the noble traditions of the cuisine of France. But the dishes he presents at Amber are far from staid and predictable. To his traditional Amber 厨艺总监 Richard Ekkebus 利用香港国际港口优势，把最佳 training Ekkebus adds vision, imagination, and his own distinctive touch to create extraordinarily original dishes that have earned Amber two Michelin stars. His signatures include highly personal interpretations of Miyazaki wagyu, strip loin, and delicate Korean abalone. The international accent he brings to his food reflects the path of his life and career, from his upbringing in the Netherlands, where he first learned to cook, to stints in Mauritius and Barbados, and from receiving the title of Chevalier de l’ordre national du Merite in 2015 to presiding over what has been named Best Restaurant in China 2017.

食材转变令人惊叹的佳肴。餐厅开设于香港置地文华东方酒店，吸引了不少本地和各国旅客，大家常拿手机拍下 Richard 精心烹调、有名「上镜」的美馔。

Richard 最爱的仍是经典法式烹调。在 Pierre Gagnaire、 Alain Passard、Guy Savoy 等大厨熏陶下，他对法国传统烹饪了然令人惊喜。于心，打下坚实基础。他在 Amber 的菜色不断推陈出新， Richard 在传统厨艺训练中加入前瞻视野、想像力，以及独门技巧，创造出不落窠臼的菜色，为 Amber 赢得米其林二星荣耀。招牌菜包括宫崎和牛、牛前腰脊肉与韩国鲍鱼料理。

Richard 的菜式具有各国腔调，也反映出他的人生经历和职涯发展：他在荷兰长大并学习烹饪，先后在毛里求斯和巴巴多斯工作，

2015 年获颁法国国家荣誉骑士勋章， 2017 年掌理全中国最佳的餐厅。 spring sojourn

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④ Hong Kong, China 中国香港

Umberto Bombana has become accustomed to culinary acclaim. During his fifteen years as head of the legendary Toscana, he was named Best Italian Chef in Asia by the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners ( ICIF ) in 断推出佳肴，呈现给广大饕客。 2002. With the closing of Toscana, 目前除了在亚洲 50 最佳餐厅榜单中 Bombana was inspired to open 位列第四名外， Umberto 也成了 2017 年 his own place. The name pays 终身成就奖得主。「这是很 Diners Club® tribute to 8½ , the 1963 movie 重要的认可，」他说，「获得这个奖使我 m a ste r wo r k f ro m Fe l l i n i , h i s 觉得 — 当然也希望顾客觉得 — 我们做得 favorite director. Since its open很棒。」 ing, Bombana’s extremely influential Umberto 来自意大利北部的贝加莫， restaurant has been continuously 烹调生涯坚持不忘初心、深切关注顾客的 producing its own masterworks and 需求，强调用最新鲜的农产品制作诚实 presenting them to an audience of 美味的食物。他有松露之王的美名，钟 dining devotees. 爱这款奢华食材，并在后来停留的香港 And now, in addition to the fourth吸引到酷爱松露的年轻饕客。 place ranking of his restaurant by Asia’s 2010 年开幕后不到一年，8½ Otto 50 Best, Bombana has been awarded e Mezzo BOMBANA 便荣获米其林二星， The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement 翌年获得三星殊荣，成为意大利本国之 Award for Asia 2017. “This is an impor外唯一获得三颗星的意大利餐厅。 tant recognition,” he says, “one that makes me and, I hope, our guests feel that we’re doing a beautiful job.” Originally from Bergamo in Italy’s north, Bombana remains true to his roots, with obsessive attention to his customers and a deep respect for honest food and the freshest of produce. He has been dubbed King of Truffles, and it’s his fondness for this luxury that has helped spawn a generation of truffle lovers in his adopted Hong Kong. Within eleven months of its opening in 2010, 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA was awarded two Michelin stars. When another was added in 2012, it became the only three-Michelin-star Italian restaurant outside Italy.

COURTESY OF 8 1/2 OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA (2)

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Umberto Bombana 驰名烹饪界多年，曾于丽嘉酒店 Toscana 意大利餐厅担任行政总厨十五年，并于 2002 年获得意大利国际厨艺学院 (ICIF)「全亚洲最优秀意大利菜厨师」的美誉。后来 Toscana 歇业， Umberto 决定自己开店，取这个店名是为了向心中最爱的导演费里尼于 1963 年拍的电影《8½》致敬。餐厅开幕以来不

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Nahm is helmed by Australian-born Executive Chef David Thompson, whose creative cuisine is inspired by the enticing aromas and flavors of Bangkok’s street-food scene and is informed by an archive of century-old Thai cookbooks. This layered contrast of soul and intellect, of present and past, is one reason nahm has been a fixture on the roster of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, appearing every year since its inception and topping the list in 2014. Thompson’s understanding of Thai culinary history leads him to employ lesser-known traditional ingredients like pla chorn , a freshwater fish that features in his jungle curry, and to always respect the importance of classic

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balance in a dish. He recognizes the unique flavor dynamics of Thai cuisine and strives for its precise interplay of hot, sour, sweet, and salty tastes. His menu, built around a range of traditional steamed, grilled, stir-fried, and curried dishes, is augmented by potent and savory relishes and delicate contemporary canapés, such as egg nets with prawns, wild almonds, and kaffir lime. There’s an underlying regal element to Thompson’s food, in both ingredients and heritage. He believes that a portion of his cookbook archives originated with the royal court kitchen, and he sources his guinea fowl from The Royal Project Foundation in Chiang Mai, sponsored by the King of Thailand.

⑤ nahm Bangkok, Thailand 泰国曼谷

澳洲裔行政总厨 David Thompson 掌舵的曼谷餐厅

nahm 自 2010 年初试啼声以来，吸引众多饕客朝圣。 David 的创意受到香料和街头小吃启发，并于翻读泰式料理的远古食谱后得以提升。灵魂和心智、现代和过去的冲突对比，使 nahm 得以盘踞在亚洲 50 家最佳餐厅的名单中，开幕以来年年上榜，2014 年 COURTESY OF NAHM (2)

更荣膺冠军。

David 对泰国烹饪历史了若指掌，懂得尊重菜肴的平衡性，连少有人知的传统食材 pla chorn（泰国的淋上特辣咖喱让人食指大动。他了解泰式料理中香料的微妙平衡，努力捕捉辣、酸、一种蛇头鱼）也应用裕如，甜、咸等味道最精准的组合。菜单上除了传统的蒸、烤、煎和咖喱入味的菜肴，另有细致爽口的法式开胃小点，如蛋网卷虾肉杏仁佐青柠等。 David 的菜肴深具皇家风范，不论是食材或烹调方式皆然。他相信他的食谱一部分源自泰国皇室，例如珠鸡便是自泰王位于清迈的皇家计划基金会取得而来。

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ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF 2017

May Chow Little Bao, Hong Kong and Bangkok

COURTESY OF LITTLE BAO (2)

小包包，香港和曼谷

最佳女厨师奖项计划不仅为鼓励饮食业表现卓越的女性，也为 The Best Female Chef awards program is designed to cel启发鼓励新时代女性，努力在传统上由男性主导的烹饪界中追 ebrate successful women on today’s gastronomic scene and 求最高理想。 to inspire the rising generation to aim for the top. 荣获这项大奖的周思薇（May Chow）是小包包主厨兼老板， May Chow is chef-owner of Little Bao in Hong Kong and 在香港和曼谷均设有分店。她力求创新，从美国和香港度过的 Bangkok. She drew inspiration from her childhood spent in 童年中汲取灵感，创造出外表像汉堡，里面藏有如猪腩肉和天 the U.S. and Hong Kong to create the Chinese-American bao, 妇罗鱼等美味馅料的中美合璧小点心。 her pioneering fusion comfort food that’s served burger-style and conceals delicious fillings like juicy slow-braised pork May 先在公众活动中售卖这些广受喜爱的「中式汉堡」，年才在香港苏豪美食区开设第一家餐厅。仅容纳二十人的 belly or crispy fish tempura. 2013 店面除了供应招牌包类美食，也有适合多人享用的中国菜，如 Chow began selling her inventions at pop-up events 醉蚬和炙烤猪颊肉。她发挥想像力，重新诠释中式精致小菜以 before opening her first restaurant in Hong Kong’s Soho dis至创作甜点－其中冰淇淋包大受顾客欢迎。 trict in 2013. The twenty-seat venue also serves Chinese继小包包 2016 年在曼谷的分店顺利开设，她开始物色其 inspired sharing plates like drunken clams and roasted pork 他海外据点，也许是东京、墨尔本或伦敦。这位活跃的厨师去 cheek. Chow’s imaginative reinterpretations extend all the 。年也在香港时髦的大坑区开设中式小酒馆「Second Draft」 way to the dessert menu—her decadent Sweet Ending ice cream bao is a top seller. With her sights set on other overseas destinations for the brand in the future, the dynamic chef has diversified into the trendy Tai Hang neighborhood with the opening last year of her “Chinese gastropub” called Second Draft.

ASIA’S BEST PASTRY CHEF 2017

Kazutoshi Narita ESqUISSE, Tokyo, Japan ESqUISSE，日本东京

Kazutoshi Narita, head pâtissier at ESqUISSE, the famed two-Michelinstar restaurant in the glamorous Ginza district, skillfully combines French and Japanese artistry. He spent years in Paris perfecting his classic technique with such masters as Tateru Yoshino and Pierre Hermé, and he likes to gracefully finesse his work with fancifully decorative presentations and delicate Asian touches. Pastry requires patience and precision, both of which Narita manifests in abundance. But what sets him apart is a truly original vision.

JUN GOTO (LEFT ), COURTESY OF ESQUISSE (RIGHT )

Narita’s interest in scientiﬁc developments that uncover secrets behind the mechanisms of taste and fermentation broadens his creative approach, and his success is a product of this winning combination of technical excellence and innovative thinking. Besides overseeing production of all breads, pastries, cakes, and chocolates at ESqUISSE and its sister restaurant, ARGILE, Narita has opened his own intimate dessert cafe, ESqUISSE CINq, where customers can select from an elaborate list of selections beyond what is available at the two restaurants. Each day he features a constantly changing spectacular Grand Dessert trio: a showpiece, a soufflé, and a seasonal specialty. Narita has also launched a line of chocolates created completely from scratch. Using his knowledge of fermentation, he has developed a method for making chocolate directly from cacao beans, which he then enhances with every sort of flavorful ingredient, including lavender, persimmon, yuzu, and sake.

成田一世（Kazutoshi Narita）在位于繁华银座区的知名米其林二星餐厅担任糕饼主厨，巧妙结合法国和日本的甜点精华。他曾在巴黎于 Tateru Yoshino 与 Pierre Hermé 勤练技艺，喜欢用各种装饰和纤美秀巧的亚洲风格，为成品增色。糕点制作既需耐心、也要求精准，而这两点均为成田一世所擅长；但他最出色的地方在于把目光回归最初。透过探讨味觉和发酵过程的科学奥秘，他开拓创意手法，其成功来自上乘技巧与创新思维。除了监督 ESqUISSE 和姊妹店 ARGILE 的所有面包、糕点、蛋糕及巧克力的制造外，成田一世还开设一家卖甜点的咖啡店 ESqUISSE CINq，提供上述两家餐厅的糕饼、甜点，咖啡店每天会推出不同的豪华甜点三重奏：当日精选、舒芙蕾、当季特产各一。成田一世也推出一系列设计新颖的巧克力，运用发酵原理，他发展出直接以可可豆制作巧克力的方法，再以薰衣草、甜柿、柚子或清酒等添加香味。 spring sojourn

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Seeking out the fastest-rising star on the Asian dining scene, this special award honors a restaurant that hasn’t yet made Asia’s 50 Best, but is likely to do so very soon. Selected by the organizers of the list in collaboration with their regional experts, this year’s winner is TocToc, a sophisticated restaurant with an emphasis on seafood and influences that are Korean, Japanese, Italian, and French. TocToc’s extroverted owner and chef is Kim Dae-chun. One of his fanatical pursuits, described by him as sometimes lonely and difficult, is tracking down the finest ingredients, particularly neglected traditional Korean ones that include unusual varieties of fish, wild greens, and seaweed. Kim, who was raised in Seoul, was pursuing a career as a drummer when he visited Japan and first discovered his interest in cooking. After training at a Tokyo culinary academy, he got hands-on experience in international cuisine at top restaurants in Tokyo and Seoul. The menus at TocToc reflect Kim’s broad sources of inspiration. Raw fish is always on offer, a favorite from his childhood growing up by the sea and his visits to Tsukiji fish market during his time in Tokyo. The daily salads feature rare herbs and plants grown with aquaponics technology. And the standout fish dishes, such as butter-braised cod with saffron buerre blanc, are often French-based with Kim’s famously deft Korean touches. 此奖项颁给亚洲崛起速度最快的餐厅，勉励尚未名列亚洲前五十、但前景看俏的餐厅。今年由前五十家最佳餐厅的评审团和各地区专家共同票选出首尔的 TocToc 获奖。这家餐厅主要提供海鲜，菜式展现出韩式、日式、意式和法式等融合风格。厨师兼老板 Kim Dae-chun 表示，他最狂热的追求之一 — 此任务有时艰辛且孤单，就是找出上等食材，尤其是遭到忽略的韩国传统食材，包括不常见的鱼类、野生植物和海藻。

Dae-chun 在首尔长大，在日本打算做鼓手，后来才发觉自己对烹饪感兴趣。刚在东京烹饪学院受训完，便到东京和首尔的从 TocToc 的菜单中反映出 Dae-chun 喜欢从各处吸取灵感。生鱼绝对少不了，这是生长于海边的他从小最喜爱的菜色；在东京他也经常到筑地市场造访闲逛。每日沙拉是拣选用鱼菜共生技术种植的稀有香草和植物为原料。最著名的鱼料理像是黄油焖鳕鱼佐番红花白奶油酱汁，也体现主厨以法式烹调为主，加上灵巧韩式技法的特色。

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COURTESY OF TOCTOC (2)

一流餐厅学习，累积烹煮各国料理的实作经验。

MIELE ONE TO WATCH AWARD ASIA 2017

TocToc Seoul, Korea 韩国首尔

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MACAU HIGHEST RATED

Jade Dragon Macau, China 中国澳门

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Two of Macau’s restaurants make the list of Asia’s 50 Best for 2017, and both are found in the heart of Cotai at City of Dreams. The Tasting Room, featuring contemporary French cuisine, came in at 39, and Jade Dragon, with its sumptuous interpretations of Cantonese classics, took Macau’s highest honors at number 32. Jade Dragon, which is helmed by Chef Tam Kwok Fung, has enjoyed a recent run of acclaim – it received its second Michelin star in the 2016 guide for Hong Kong and Macau and has retained it for 2017. The restaurant’s glamorous interiors are lavished with 今年澳门有两家餐厅上榜，均位于路氹城的新濠天地。御膳房主 opulent materials like gold, marble, and jade. They feature 打当代法国料理，位居第三十九名；而誉珑轩则以式样繁多的广 works of fine art and the most elegant of table decorations, 东菜肴取胜，夺下澳门最高荣誉，名列三十二。 china, and napery to create an appropriately grand setting for 掌舵「誉珑轩」的厨师谭国锋近年来好评连连，餐厅去年获 Tam’s masterfully executed Chinese specialties. 得 2016 年香港米其林指南两颗星殊荣，今年继续保持他的卓越 A series of extravagantly appointed private dining rooms 成绩。 with secret entrances make for the ultimate in VIP privacy. 「誉珑轩」内部装潢极其富丽，雕金镂玉，亦有大理石点缀 Such palatial surroundings are the perfect fit for the regal 其间，壁上挂着上乘书画，餐桌摆饰、瓷器、桌巾亦高贵典丽， dishes of Chef Tam, who has cooked for royal families around 烘托谭师傅一流的菜式。餐厅提供数间私人包厢供贵宾预约，其 the world. 中可经由密道前往，维护顾客隐私。谭师傅常为各国皇室成员烹 The chef’s vast kitchen includes a magnificent barbe调餐点，堂皇富丽的用餐环境与主厨的皇家佳肴，可谓互相辉映。 cue area, where prime cuts of ibérico pork are roasted over 主厨工作的厨房也相当明亮宽敞，包括令人惊叹的烤肉区域， branches of fragrant lychee wood. And Tam’s fetish for the 西班牙黑豚的顶级部位切下后便可挂在芳香的荔枝木上烧烤。谭 highest quality produce, sourced from around the world, is 师傅对高品质、来自世界各地的农产品情有独钟，无怪乎他端出 part of the reason that every dish excels with authentic flavor 的每道菜皆能尝到纯正的滋味和完美平衡的口感。 and perfect balance.

RESORT

富国岛风情

phu quoc fantasy

GEOFF LUNG (3)

Luxury and whimsy converge at Emerald Bay Resort & Spa.

VIETNAM’S PARADISE OF PHU QUOC got a little more heavenly in January when

JW 万豪度假酒店今年一月在越南富国岛翡翠湾隆重开

JW Marriott opened the lush island’s first international destination luxury resort.

幕，是岛上首个国际奢华品牌度假村，让这个人间仙境

Stretching out along a pristine private beachfront, the retreat takes every advantage of its spectacular natural setting. Architect Bill Bensley has based his playful design narrative on the theme of a mythical academy, with each major structure representing a different branch of learning. There are 243 sumptuous and spacious rooms, suites, apartments, and villas to choose from, and guests soon discover that Bensley’s prolific imagination has made sure that every space throughout the property has its own unique and delightful details. From the soaring loftiness of the lobby to oversized loving cups and four-poster beds to mirrors everywhere, there’s always another diverting design element to behold.

更添魅力。它坐落于一片纯净海滩上，把自然的纯朴风采发挥得淋漓尽致。建筑师 Bill Bensley 以带神话色彩的学院为设计主题，每栋主要建筑风格廻异，各自代表套房、一种学科。度假村内共有 243 间豪华宽敞的客房、公寓和别墅供游客选择。走进里头，人们会发现 Bill 的奇思妙想让每一寸空间都充满独特且令人喜悦的细节。从大厅的挑高设计到讨喜的杯子和四柱床，以及环绕四周的镜子，随处都有别出心裁的创意。度假村也提供丰富多样的餐饮选择。 Tempus Fugit 餐厅大厨结合纯正地道的越南口味、摩登创新的

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RESORT

On the food and beverage front, the resort is equally diverse. Chefs at Tempus Fugit create an international dining experience from three world-class cuisines: authentic Vietnamese, contemporary Japanese, and classic French. The relaxed beachside seafood grill, Red Rum, offers guests the best of the local catch, prepared and served with style. And Pink Pearl, the resort’s epitome of fine dining, indulges guests with high-end Cantonese cuisine in a mansion by the sea. For the thirsty, the Department of Chemistry Bar features a staff of talented “chemists,” whose elixirs are engineered to improve the mood and enhance the view of Emerald Bay. For things to do, the resort offers a range of recreational options, including simply lolling and soaking up sun on its private beach or around one of the outdoor pools. Guests can stroll the “Rue de Lamarck,” an avenue of boutiques offering local artisan crafts, or surrender themselves up to the full treatment at Spa by JW.

日式料理和经典法式美食，为饕客带来三种顶级料理的美食体验。紧邻海滩的碳烤海鲜餐厅 Red Rum 风格独特的菜肴，让顾客一尝当地风情。 Pink Pearl 餐厅则是以精致菜肴著称，让顾客在海边别墅享用上等粤菜料理。客人若口渴了，可移步到 Department of Chemistry

Bar，这里每位调酒师都是多才多艺的「炼金术师」，饮下他们炮制的「灵丹妙药」后，让情绪更加融入翡翠湾的美景之中。想排遣休闲时光，你可以懒洋洋躺在沙滩上，或在户外泳池旁享受日光浴。此外，到酒店内的 Rue de

Lamarck 大街观看当地艺术家鬼斧神工的精品，或在酒店内好好享受水疗，都是不错的选择。 spring sojourn

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再造天堂

Eden Reenvisioned The natural beauty of Sri Lanka is backdrop to a lavish leisure resort.

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historic fort town of Galle, passes dazzling bays where fishermen in bright sarongs balance on stilts above the waves to lure fish toward their lines, and customers eagerly wait at water’s edge to buy the fresh catch. Diners at Cape Weligama’s Ocean Terrace restaurant can also enjoy the catch of the day prepared to order, along with some of the choicest of Sri Lanka’s iconic local dishes. Guests who treasure their privacy or simply can’t tear themselves away from the luxury of their suite or villa can enjoy room service on a secluded veranda or while relaxing in a meticulously landscaped garden. The resort offers a number of other equally tempting dining options: the Ocean Grill at cliff ’s edge features choice Western cuisine, and the Cape Colony Club is a relaxed venue for traditional afternoon cream tea and also the ideal place to linger over cocktails at sundown or a slow nightcap under the glittering Sri Lankan stars.

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OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT rests atop a writers associated with Sri Lanka. The villas headland that rises thirty-six meters above are set within eight stone-ringed gardens in the the surging waves of the Indian Ocean. In upper regions of the resort, and the suites surappearance part temple and part fort, the round a family-friendly swimming pool with building is open on all sides to the fresh sea views of the ocean. air. Lofty coconut-wood pillars ascend to Cape Weligama is at one with its surthe roof ’s apex. Beaten metal shields embelroundings, almost as though its structures lish walls of deep lavender. And have stood in place for centuarrowhead-shaped recesses gleam ries, although until recently the BY gold in the brilliant midday sun. headland was covered in dense LUCY MORGAN Guests on the clifftop veranda jungle. Designed by awardwinning architect Lek Mathar drink in the endless views as the PHOTOGRAPHY BY sea’s rhythmic drone far below is Bunnag, the resort’s discreet exteDAVID HARTUNG lifted by the breeze and broken riors, whose thoughtful design perfectly harmonizes with the by the calls of birds. This spectacular scene is part of Cape site’s natural beauty, are reminiscent of Sri Lankan village houses, but conceal quietly Weligama, a unique resort created by tea company Dilmah’s leisure arm, Resplendopulent living spaces within. A crescentent Ceylon, and belonging to the portfolio shaped infinity pool sixty meters long hugs of Relais & Chateaux. the curve of the headland and visually melds Within its twelve acres of lushly landscaped into the sea beyond. The drive to Cape Weligama, two hours grounds nestle thirty-nine private suites and villas named after distinguished explorers and from Colombo or thirty minutes from the

RESORT

The infinity Moon Pool is the perfect place to steal a siesta beneath palm trees bowing in the breeze. 无边际的月牙池很适合午后小憩，在棕榈树下享受微风轻拂而过。

Ocean Terrace 餐厅耸立在 36 米高的印度洋岬角上 , 外观的一部分是寺庙 , 一部分是碉堡 , 开放的空间设计让清凉海风得以自由吹拂。椰木柱子撑起高耸屋顶 , 墙面铺以深紫色金属薄片 , 镞形壁龛在正午阳光下散发金黄色光芒。宾客可在悬崖上的阳台一览无际海天景色 , 脚下的海浪随着微风的节奏规律拍打海岸 , 偶尔传来几声悦耳的鸟啭 , 更添韵致。这个富丽万千的空间位于瓦勒迦玛湾酒店 , 是茶业巨擘帝玛红茶旗下知名酒店集团 Resplendent Ceylon 一手打造的杰作 , 也是罗莱夏朵精品酒店集团的一员。度假村占地 12 英亩 , 其间花木扶疏 , 共设 39 处住所 , 分别以斯里兰卡的杰出探险家和作家命名。独栋别墅位处度假村地势较高处，在 8 个石环状的花园之间；套房则分布在一个适合一家大小畅泳的游泳池旁，从中可眺望壮阔大海。瓦勒迦玛湾酒店与周围环境浑然一体 , 仿佛已在当地矗立了数世纪之久 , 直到最近 , 岬角才被茂密的丛林所覆盖。整座度假村由知名建筑师 Lek Mathar Bunnag 操刀设计 , 朴实的外观不仅无损当地自然美景 , 反倒增添景致魅力。其中 60 米长的月牙形无边际泳池沿着岬角曲线延展 , 仿佛与远处的大海交融为一。这里距离可伦坡约两小时车程 , 距离古老要塞加勒 (Galle) 三十分钟车程 , 沿途满是令人目眩神迷的美丽海湾。身穿亮丽沙龙的渔民脚采高跷 , 踏浪引诱鱼群入网 , 岸上等待着的是急切购买新鲜渔获的众多顾客。瓦勒迦玛湾酒店的宾客也可在度假村内的 Ocean Terrace 享用当天捕捞上岸的渔获 , 餐厅亦提供多款地道斯里兰卡菜色。如果客人希望拥有更多私人时间，又或已沉浸在自己住所的奢华氛围中，瓦勒迦玛湾酒店的多间出色餐厅也很乐意提供送餐服务－宾客可在阳台的林荫或花园的美景中享用各种独特美点。度假村还有多间能满足宾客味蕾的餐厅：喜爱西式餐点的，便要来悬崖边的 Ocean Grill 一尝大厨的高超厨艺；Cape Colony Club 的环境舒适优雅，不论是体验当地传统于下午享用的奶油茶、在夕阳余光下细酌、抑或在浩瀚星空下的餐后美酒，也总是相宜。 spring sojourn

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PRESENTED BY HOFEX

屹立亚洲三十年

thirty years on top From food to wine to coffee, this year’s HOFEX is set to dazzle Asia.

TK | SPRING SOJOURN

“ Don’t listen to or read what other people think. Concentrate on your own impressions. There are no rights and no wrongs in wine appreciation. 品酒别只顾着旁听或探究别人怎么想。集中精神，仔细体会葡萄酒带来的感觉，品尝美酒本来就没有什么对错。”

KENNETH LIM ( TOP LEFT ), HOFEX (2 LEFT ), COURTESY JANCIS ROBINSON

JANCIS ROBINSON

IN 2017, HOFEX, Asia’s leading food and hospitality trade show, marks a major milestone on its extraordinary culinary journey as it celebrates thirty years of excellence. Everyone of note in an industry that spans a vast geography will gather in Hong Kong to make the most of the unparalleled opportunity – and to have a lot of fun in the process. The figures are impressive: over 2,500 exhibitors from fifty-seven countries spread across fifteen exhibition halls covering an astonishing 66,000 square meters. They’ll be coming to generate exciting new business leads

2017 年，为庆祝亚洲首屈一指的食品餐饮及酒店设备展－「HOFEX」的 30 周年里程碑和多年来在餐饮界的卓越表现，来自全球各地的业界人士将齐聚香港，趁此良机，参与这场盛况空前的大会，期待可满载而归。 2017 年「HOFEX」的参展数据相当亮眼：这次展览多达 15 个展厅、邀请了 57 个国家及地区中的 2,500 多家参展商、使用场地面积广达 66,000 平方米。展会除了为参展商提供开创新事业的良机，也让业者借此机会与忠实客户互动交流、品酒及享用美味小点。「HOFEX」更是展示新品、寻找新经销商的完美平台，大众可从中预视世界食品市场的最新趋势。

全球第一大国际葡萄酒与烈酒贸易展览会「ProWine」亚洲系列展也将于「HOFEX」隆重登场。「ProWine」每年持续为各界缔造商机新猷，此次进驻将备受瞩目，成为联结庞大中国市场的良好桥梁。每届「ProWine」均邀请业界大名鼎鼎的专家到场，今年受邀者是备受推崇的品酒大师及作家－葡萄界女王 Jancis Robinson 及葡萄酒大师 Debra Meiburg。 Jancis 钻研葡萄酒超过 40 年，将于「ProWine Asia」的活动期间登台分享宝贵经验。她曾表示 :「1975 年我在普罗旺斯待了一年，感受到葡萄庄园一年一度的奇迹，回伦敦后我便决意以葡萄酒作为一生志业。葡萄酒能同时为感官及知识带来愉悦及刺激。」 spring sojourn

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as well as to catch up with loyal clients, often over a glass or plate of something delicious. And they know there’s no better platform for launching new products, sourcing new distributors, and researching what has mushroomed into the world’s largest market for foods. As a bonus, ProWine Asia will be a featured part of HOFEX this year, coming to Hong Kong as the world’s number one international trade fair for wines and spirits. Regarded as the premier platform for taking the business to new heights each year, it is poised to flourish in one of Asia’s most exciting hubs and to serve as a springboard into the enormous Chinese market. The show is famous for enlisting as guests the biggest and best names in the wine industry, and this year’s roster includes two of the field’s most respected critics and writers, Jancis Robinson and Debra Meiburg. Jancis Robinson has been deeply involved with wine for more than forty years, and she brings her unmatched story of expertise to ProWine Asia at HOFEX. “In 1975, after a year in Provence where I saw the annual miracle in the vineyards,” she says, “I got back to London and decided to make wine my career. Wine combines both sensual and intellectual pleasure and stimulation.” At HOFEX, she’ll be conducting focused tastings, including one on underappreciated grape varieties. The events are designed to benefit everyone from professionals to veteran connoisseurs. Robinson is also looking forward to catching up with many old friends from across the global industry in what is one of her favorite cities. Her democratic approach to the enjoyment of wine all comes down to the individual: “Don’t listen to or read what other people think,” she advises. “Concentrate on your own impressions.

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There are no rights and no wrongs in wine appreciation.” Robinson is the author of more than twenty books on wine, and her next, the eighth edition of The World Atlas of Wine, will be published in 2019. Her practiced eye has been charting the rise of wine in China from the standpoint of production as well as consumption. “The number of good Chinese wines is growing fast,” she notes. “I’ve had some excellent reds from both Ningxia and Yunnan.” Master of Wine Debra Meiburg is an award-winning author, TV personality, and international speaker, who is widely considered the global authority on the Asian wine market. Originally from Sonoma County, California, she has lived in Hong Kong for almost thirty years. “I became a wine educator because wine was my passion,” she says. “When you’re passionate about something, you just want to share it with others and inspire the same enthusiasm and excitement in them. Essentially, I’m a teacher at heart.” During ProWine Asia at HOFEX, Meiburg’s talent for communicating her extensive knowledge will be on ample display. Through her company, Meiburg Wine Media, she’ll be hosting the Asia Wine Industry Summit, one of the show’s major, must-attend features. “As part of the summit, we’ll present three workshops,” she says. “We hope to get attendees thinking about new and improved ways to do business and to continue growing and enriching our industry as a whole.” Her topics include teaching servers about wine to help build the Asian market, disruptive wine trends in e-commerce, and the question of marketing wine by gender. Meiburg is confident her sessions, with their mix of industry and nonindustry speakers, will attract key decision-makers

「HOFEX」期间她将主持两场专题品酒会，更会介绍稍为冷门的葡萄种类，为专业人士及资深品酒家带来有利情报。来到最爱的城市之一，Jancis 表示她亦期盼和各地业界友人好好叙旧一番。她凭藉自身体验作为品酒的依归并建议 :「品酒别只顾着旁听或探究别人怎么想，集中精神，仔细体会葡萄酒带来的感觉，品尝美酒本来就没有什么对错。」 Jancis 著述甚丰，所写的葡萄酒专门书籍超过 20 本，其下一著作「世界葡萄酒地图」第八版预计于 2019 年出版。眼光精准的她，早已预见中国葡萄酒市场的崛起，不论是酿造或消费两端均有极大潜力。她特别指出 : 「中国出产的好酒数量正快速增长，我已品尝过好几支来自宁夏及云南出产且品质绝佳的红酒。」葡萄酒大师 Debra Meiburg 为获大奖肯定的作家、电视名人及国际讲师，被认定为亚洲葡萄酒市场的世界级权威。出身加州索诺马县，移居香港已近 30 年的她说道 :「基于对葡萄酒的热诚，我成为酒类教育专家。当你对某件事怀有满腔热血时，自然会想和人分享同样的热忱及兴奋。我就是个打从心底想为葡萄酒奉献的老师。」 Debra 善于分享葡萄酒心得，本次于「ProWine Asia」更会分享海量专业知识。她将以自己的美酒文化公司「Meiburg Wine Media」的名义主办展览期间的另一盛事－「亚洲葡萄酒业峰会 (Asia Wine Industry Summit)」，业界人士机不可失。她强调 :「我们同期将举办三场工作坊，希望藉此机会刺激与会者推陈出新，发掘更新更进步的经营方式，与整体葡萄酒产业共赢共荣、一同成长。」峰会的主题多元化，包括：为促进亚洲市场进一步发展，指导侍者葡萄酒的知识、电子商务，为酒业带来的颠覆性趋势以及关于性别行销的深度探讨等。 Debra 对于她的参与内容信心十足，业界和非业界讲师将同时与会，和参观者及展商分享全新思维模式和亚洲葡萄酒市场的大方向和前景，此安排定可吸引亚洲各地市场的决策者及买家驻步参与。她给各位葡萄酒爱好者的建议非常简单：「葡萄酒大家族非常有趣，你不必按照别人所说的去喝，只需

DAVID LI (MEIBURG WINE MEDIA), HOFEX(1)

PRESENTED BY HOFEX

“We hope to get attendees thinking about new and improved ways to do business and to continue growing and enriching our industry as a whole. 我们希望藉此发掘更新更进步的经营方式，与整体葡萄酒产业共赢共荣、一同成长。” DEBRA MEIBURG

and buyers from across Asia by offering visitors and exhibitors outside-the-box insights and the latest wide-ranging outlook on the Asian wine market. Her counsel to wine fans of all stripes is simple: “The wine community is a really fun one. Drink what you like – not what others say you should like – but continue to explore new tastes, flavors, and styles. You’ll be continually surprised by what’s out there.” The world of coffee offers another intriguing prospect at this year’s HOFEX. One feature set to be a must-visit for industry professionals is a unique barista competition called the MBA or Mixed Barista Arts that brings together some of the world’s most talented masters in creating the perfect cup. The competition was established by Sydney-born Scottie Callaghan, who has spent almost twenty years in the coffee business at roasting companies and as a barista and owner. In 2015, he founded Redback, an Australian-style specialty coffee roasted in Hong Kong and sold out of an uber-cool space called Fineprint in the city’s Soho district. “MBA came out of a vision I’ve had to create a competition that will be ‘The Iron Chef ’ of the barista world,” says Callaghan, “in effect, ‘The Iron Barista,’ a true master-chef-style event.” Visitors to the competition will be able to watch close up the astonishing dexterity and creative flair of champion baristas at work on Astoria espresso machines, including the Perla and Plus4Champions models, sponsored by Foodgears Coffee & Beverage International Ltd. Elements of the contest include the Bump n’ Grind challenge with three baristas at stations with identical disassembled Atom coffee grinders by Eureka, sponsored by Hiang Kie Coffee Group Ltd., who also supply the Eureka Zenith 65E

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models used in other challenges. Under the pressure of being watched on video screens by hundreds of people, Bump n’ Grind entrants must reassemble their grinders, dial them in to achieve the perfect fineness of coffee powder, and produce a volume of between fifteen and eighteen grams. Perhaps the contest’s most aesthetically appealing element is the latte art section. Hong Kong’s Ivy Lai, who was latte art champion at the prestigious New York Coffee Festival, returns to HOFEX to judge the Latte Art Smackdown, in which a pair of baristas face off by presenting the judges with a coffee made and patterned in just three minutes. “For a latte artist, there’s beauty and balance,” explains Lai, a former fashion design student. “And because people can see it, it’s often the first step in their coffee education. Successful baristas have to love sharing their knowledge and experience – that’s what the Latte Art Smackdown is all about.” HOFEX is also all about welcoming new participants from every part of the world who are eager to demonstrate their unique cuisines and products to a global audience. For instance, the Nordic group of countries, extending from the Arctic as far south as Denmark, have launched new pavilions this year. “HOFEX is Asia’s most established and well-known international food exhibition,” explains Food from Sweden’s team leader. “So it was an easy choice for us. We’ve included Hong Kong and China in our focus markets, and we see this event as an open invitation to them from Sweden to explore the world of our food culture.” Sustainability, as with every exhibitor at HOFEX 2017, is a critical issue for Food from Sweden: “We’re working in the interest of good food that’s not only good

要选择自己所爱，但要不断探掘新的口味及风格。选择之多，一定会触发你源源不绝的惊艳之感。」咖啡专区亦是今年「HOFEX」另一亮点，其中最让专业人士引颈期盼的非全能咖啡师格斗 (Mixed Barista Arts – MBA ) 莫属。全球最顶尖的咖啡达人将同台竞技，终极目的只求泡出最完美的咖啡。比赛创始人为于悉尼土生土长的 Scottie Callaghan，他在咖啡业界摸爬滚打将近 20 年，曾于不同的烘焙公司中历练，是咖啡师之余也自行创业。2015 年，他于香港创立了澳洲风独特的烘焙咖啡品牌－「Redback」，并在苏豪美食区开设了风格独树一帜的「Fineprint」咖啡店。 Scottie 表示：「设立比赛是把我的愿景实现－创造《铁人料理》的咖啡师版本，我希望能带来像《厨艺大师》这样有趣的比赛。」来到 MBA 的比赛现场，观众将可亲眼目睹才华洋溢的咖啡师以福基国际咖啡有限公司赞助，Astoria 的 Perla 及 Plus4Champions 型号咖啡机，展现精湛手法及天马行空的创意。比赛内容包括「Bump n’ Grind」限时赛：由香记咖啡集团有限公司赞助，Eureka 的 Atom 咖啡研磨机会被拆解，并由三位咖啡师重新组装。数百位观众将透过大萤幕直接关注咖啡师的一举一动，他们要在此般压力下调出最佳状态的咖啡粉，最后制作出 15 至 18 克的成品。同时香记咖啡集团有限公司也为相关比赛赞助了 Eureka 的 Zerith 65E 型号咖啡研磨机。比赛中最能体现美感的环节应该就是咖啡拉花角力了，评审由世界知名纽约咖啡节拉花公开赛冠军、香港知名咖啡师赖国英 Ivy Lai 担任。比赛两人一组，各组需在三分钟内完成咖啡的烹煮和拉花，送到评审团面前。时装设计背景出身的 Ivy 亲身解说：「拉花艺术者要有美感，在拉花和咖啡间找到最佳平衡。加上拉花是客人最先注意的部分，这常成为艺术者们实行咖啡教育的第一步。成功的咖啡师一定要乐于和大家沟通，分享知识及经验－这也正是咖啡拉花角力的目的。」「HOFEX」今年也加入多个全新国家馆，在全球观众及专业买主前展示独一无二的料理及产品。例如此次参会的北欧展商，地域

DAVID HARTUNG(1), HOFEX(1)

PRESENTED BY HOFEX

“ MBA came out of a vision I’ve had to create a competition that will be ‘The Iron Chef’ of the barista world, in effect, ‘The Iron Barista,’ a true masterchef-style event. 设立比赛是把我的愿景实现－创造《铁人料理》的咖啡师版本，我希望能带来像《厨艺大师》这样有趣的比赛。” SCOTTIE CALLAGHAN

PRESENTED BY HOFEX

咖啡拉花角力于 HOFEX 2017 登场

for us and for the rest of the world, but also for the future. We welcome all of Asia to join us in delicious adventures all over our country and to come and taste everything from premium meats to organic whiskey, berries, bread, and our excellent Swedish roasted coffee.” Sweden’s next-door neighbor is also joining HOFEX this year with Food from Finland, a program designed to introduce the country’s entire food and beverage industry to key Asian markets. Finland’s national pavilion showcases selected companies that focus on pure, healthy, flavorful natural products from their unique Arctic environment. Examples range from cheeses made with smoked reindeer to black trumpet

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mushrooms to superpremium beers from Alberga Brewing. Other participating companies include Kalatalo, with fresh, smoked, fried, and salted fish; Hunajainen, offering premium honey; Kotipelto, a small family farm purveying quality vegetables straight from the unpolluted Finnish soil; and L’Uomu Nokka, whose organic broiler chickens have a distinctively natural flavor, thanks to the country’s pristine conditions and worldclass food safety. It’s the steady addition of newcomers like these that continues to make HOFEX, at thirty years and counting, such an exciting source of fresh ideas for Asia’s ever-expanding food and hospitality industries.

HOFEX 2017

Asia’s Leading Food & Hospitality Tradeshow 8-11 May 2017, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Buyer’s Registration at www.hofex.com/register 亚洲顶尖国际食品餐饮及酒店设备展 2017 年 5 月 8 至 11 日, 香港会议展览中心买家预先登记：www.hofex.com/register

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The Latte Art Smackdown comes to HOFEX 2017

范围从北极一路延伸到丹麦，都会加入到新的展馆中，令人期待。瑞典食品馆领队解释 :「HOFEX 为全亚洲最完善、知名度最高的国际食品展会，参与其中是理所当然的事。香港及中国都是我们的重点市场之一，我们正可藉由大会广发邀请，让买家一探瑞典食」品文化世界，品尝中滋味。瑞典食品馆和其他 HOFEX 2017 参展商一样，将可持续性视为重要课题：「我们持续研发好的食物，不仅对人类有益，对世界各地以及未来都颇有良助。我们欢迎亚洲各国一同走遍瑞典，开展美味探索之旅，品尝顶级肉类、有机威士忌、莓果、面包及品质一流的瑞典烘焙咖啡。」瑞典旁边的芬兰也是今年「HOFEX」的大热；芬兰食品馆透过此项目把全国的餐饮业介绍给亚洲的关键市场。芬兰国家馆里精选多家厂商，展示来自极地独特环境下孕育，且纯净健康及风味十足的天然产品。最好的例子就是一字排开的特产：如烟熏驯鹿起司、黑色杏鲍菇及 Alberga Brewing 生产的顶级啤酒。另外还有 Kalatalo 供应的鲜鱼、烟熏、油炸及盐渍鱼；Hunajainen 生产的顶级蜂蜜；家族式小农 Kotipelto 则带来出产自芬兰土地、零污染的纯净蔬菜，品质尤具保障。L’Uomu Nokka 的摊位则亮出有机嫩鸡肉，归功于芬兰国内纯净的环境及世界级的食安水平，它的烤烧嫩鸡带著独特的天然风味。「HOFEX」每年都有新参展团陆续加入，因此连续开办 30 年依旧令人万分期待。这盛会将继续营造愉快的洽商及交流环境，启发更多创意概念，向亚洲不断扩大的餐饮及酒店产业注入源源不绝的生机与活力。

“ Successful baristas have to love sharing their knowledge and experience – that’s what the Latte Art Smackdown is all about. 成功的咖啡师一定要乐于和大家沟通，分享知识及经验－这也正是咖啡拉花角力的目的。” IVY LAI

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TK | SPRING SOJOURN

完美创作

Act of Creation Lucy Morgan unfolds the story of the interplay between Georgia’s landscape and history that creates some of the world’s most distinctive wines.

SPRING SOJOURN | TK |

TK | spring sojourn

TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

LONELY PLANET

wild grapes growing everywhere and over five hundred varietals in cultivation. Around forty of these are used in commercial wine production, including the famous Saperavi red grape that yields deep-colored,

MONTGOMERY FOR

vineyards stretch across the fertile terrain of beautiful rural Kakheti, Georgiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important wine-producing region. Viticulture is, in fact, an important industry across the entire country, with

ÂŠ 2017 ANDREW

THE DISTANT CAUCASUS MOUNTAINS, their ridges hidden by assembling clouds, glow purple against the darkening sky, and grapes on the vines below turn a deep indigo in the fierce light of a gathering storm. Acres of

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The Georgian people have an ancient respect for the vine. Its cultural tendrils trail across life, death, and the land and they wind through language, religion, and art. 格鲁吉亚人自古以来便相当尊崇酿酒文化, 此一文化特色有如葡萄藤蔓, 爬过生、老及土地, 跨越语言、宗教及艺术的疆界。

rich-flavored premium dry wines as well as luscious semisweet ones. Well-loved varietals include the white grapes Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane Kakhuri, which lend themselves admirably to both traditional Georgian

and classical European winemaking techniques. Archaeological evidence that includes fossilized grape seeds and shards of ancient clay jars encrusted with tartaric acid sediment confirms that Georgians have been making wine for something like eight thousand years. The Neolithic pottery fragments when reconstructed reveal vessels similar in form to the qvevri used today in traditional Georgian winemaking. Qvevri are the large, womb-shaped earthenware vessels that are buried in the ground or placed in a cool cellar known as a marani. The qvevri are filled with pressed grapes as well as the pips, skins, and stalks and are left open during fermentation before being sealed to allow the mixture to gestate. The grapes, which have already absorbed the sun’s energy, take further nourishment from the earth as they mature in the qvevri. The process results in a wine with extraordinary tannic, mineral, and incense-scented qualities. Qvevri whites are startlingly different from wines made in casks or tanks, their rich and savory notes revealing pronounced flavors of dried fruit. Sometimes known as “ambers,” these whites have a wonderful sun-tinged golden hue. Qvevri reds possess unique depth of flavor and a mysteriously compelling complexity. For something born in the earth, the taste of qvevri wines is unexpectedly ethereal. They’re not for drinking absent-mindedly at boisterous parties, but rather a pleasure to relish in quiet company, to linger over and consider. The Georgian people have an ancient respect for the vine. Its cultural tendrils trail across life, death, and the land and they wind through language, religion, and art. In days of old, a warrior protecting his homeland from attack always carried a vine shoot in his bullet pocket so that, should he die, a vine might grow on

望向远处的高加索山，山脊在绵延不断的云层中若隐若现，明灭的天色中透出幽紫的光芒，山下顺着藤蔓生长的一颗颗葡萄，则在风雨欲来的耀眼光线下转为靛蓝色泽。葡萄园相互毗邻，贯穿格鲁吉亚最重要的酿酒产区－水土丰饶、美不胜收的卡赫基乡间。葡萄栽植为格鲁吉亚全国重要产业之一，各地均可见野生葡萄，培育葡萄种类繁多，超过五百种，其中约四十种葡萄用于商业酿酒制作，包括知名的萨别拉维 (Saperavi) 红葡萄，酿出的顶级酒甜度偏低、色泽深、味道醇厚，也有味道甘美的半甜酒。其他深受喜爱的葡萄品种还包括卡斯泰利 (Rkatsiteli) 及姆茨瓦涅 - 卡胡里 (Mtsvane Kakhuri) 白葡萄，以传统格鲁吉亚或经典欧式酿酒技术来制作美酒再适合不过，颇受青睐。考古学家曾于古老泥罐外层的酒石酸沉淀物中发现葡萄籽及残渣化石，推测格鲁吉亚酿酒历史可回溯近八千年前。新石器时代的陶片拼凑成完整容器后，形状与使用至今的格鲁吉亚酿酒器具奎乌丽 (qvevri) 更是不谋而合。奎乌丽为子宫形状的大型陶器，通常埋在地下，或置于称之为 marani 的阴凉地窖中。葡萄鲜榨后放入奎乌丽，加上葡萄核、果皮及茎，发酵过程中保持开放，后才密封让混和物充分作用熟成。充分吸收太阳能量的葡萄可获得土壤滋养，于陶罐中逐渐成熟。酿出的酒单宁味重，充满矿物质及线香气息。奎乌丽酿制的白酒味道与橡木桶酿或酒槽制作的酒味道截然不同，丰富可口的风味蕴含干燥水果的扑鼻气韵，如阳光般闪耀的金黄色泽也令它有「琥珀」的美称。奎乌丽酿制的红酒韵致深沉，带着难以形容的神秘及复杂口感。对此依傍土壤制作的葡萄酒而言，味道却是出人意料的轻盈。比起不时令人分神的狂欢派对，它们更适合在静谧气氛中和三五好友互相品评，细细鉴赏。格鲁吉亚人自古以来便相当尊崇酿酒文化，此一文化特色有如葡萄藤蔓，爬过生、老及土地，跨越语言、宗教及艺术的疆界。从前，负责保家卫国的战 spring sojourn

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the spot where his body fell. The warrior’s spirit would live on in the vine, and the wine which nourished him in life would now flourish from his death. Wine and religion have been closely linked in Georgia ever since St. Nino brought Christianity to the country. She carried a cross made from vine stock bound together with tresses of her hair, and this cross became the symbol of the Georgian Orthodox Church and is widely represented in carvings, art, and architecture. Even during the Soviet era, the importance of wine to the nation was celebrated with a monumental statue overlooking the capital city of Tbilisi. Entitled Mother Georgia, a tall robed figure holds a sword in one hand to defend against enemies and a bowl of wine in the other to welcome friends. At Alaverdi Monastery on the west bank of the Alazani River, Father Gerasime, both priest and winemaker, works closely with his assistant, George Ugrekhelidze, a doctoral student in winemaking. Father Gerasime has God’s might behind him and

TK | spring sojourn

Ugrekhelidze supplies the tools of science. Together, they produce some magnificent wines and a perfect marc, or pomace brandy, distilled from the stalks, skins, and pips, and known colloquially as chacha. The monastery has been making wines for centuries, but, during Soviet days, the marani was repurposed as a gas storage facility and the cathedral was used to stable horses. The winery was rebuilt in 2005, and today it is an impressive space within the quiet monastery complex. Father Gerasime recites prayers over the qvevri during the aging process to ensure good results, and members of the local community volunteer at harvest time, giving their labor as an offering to the church. Nearby state-ofthe-art winery Badagoni, built in the shape of a cross, helped to fund the monastery’s restoration. At another Kakheti winery, Lagvinari, Dr. Eko Glonti is a winemaker descended from a long line of priests. His great-grandfather trained at the same seminary where Joseph Stalin once studied, before trading

士总习惯在子弹袋中放条藤蔓芽，就算不幸阵亡藤蔓也能在倒下之地生长，让大无畏的精神长存。陪伴战士成长茁壮的葡萄酒于此开启新生。葡萄酒与宗教密切的关系要从圣女尼诺将基督教引进格鲁吉亚说起，她用几束自己的头发将藤枝绑成十字架，随身携带，成为格鲁吉亚东正教会的象征，也是雕刻、艺术及建筑中广泛出现的意象。即便于苏联时期，葡萄酒的重要性仍无可取代，人们甚至在首都第比利斯立起一座高耸、着长袍的「格鲁吉亚之母」巨型雕像，一手持武器抵御外敌，一手拿着酒瓶表达对朋友的欢迎之意。来到位于阿拉扎尼河西岸的 Alaverdi 修道院，可见身兼神职人员及酿酒师的 Gerasime 神父与攻读酿酒博士学位的助手 George Ugrekhelidze 合作无间，他们都全神投入在酿酒之中。Gerasime 神父背后有全能的天父支持，加上 George 提供的专业科学工具，两相结合创作出多款绝佳美酒，包括味道无懈可击的 marc 榨渣葡萄酒，或称 pomace 白兰地。它以葡萄茎、果皮及葡萄核蒸馏酿造而成，当地人则习惯称之为 chacha。修道院酿酒已有数百年历史，不过苏联时期 marani 地窖被改做为储存油桶之用，教堂则当成马厩。酿酒厂至 2005 年才落成，现则成为座落于肃穆修道院建筑中独一无二的空间。熟成期间，Gerasime 神父总会来到奎乌丽前祷告，为酿出美酒祈福。采收期也有地方住民自发性帮忙，作为对教会的回馈。附近有以最高科技打造、十字架形状的 Badagoni 酒厂，它也出钱资助修道院整修。来到卡赫基州另一处酿酒厂 Lagvinari，Eko Glonti 博士出身酿酒家族，先祖中有多位牧师，一脉相承。他的曾祖父曾和因政治原因提倡反对宗教信仰的斯大林于同一所神学院受训。他不是牧师，却对酿酒技艺有着几近虔敬的热忱，坚信「酒是孕育而来，而非酿造的成果」。他认为奎乌丽内发生的种种皆是创造，并非一般制作的过程。他的酒供应于伦敦高档餐厅，并由伦敦著名酒商 Hedonism 贩售。格鲁吉亚境内大小酒厂林立，大型工业工厂紧邻着像 Lagvinari 一般的小型精致酒庄。 Iago’s Wine 酒厂负责人 Iago

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religion for politics. Although Glonti is not a priest, he takes a spiritual approach to his art, insisting that “wine is born, not made” and that what happens in the qvevri is an act of creation rather than one of manufacture. His wine is served in top London restaurants and stocked by one of the city’s famed wine shops, Hedonism. Today, Georgia has wineries ranging from enormous to tiny, with large industrial concerns operating alongside boutique wineries like Lagvinari. Iago Bitarishvili of Iago’s Wine owns an estate of just two hectares and describes his natural organic technique with great humility: “I can’t make wine better than nature can. We don’t do anything, we just clean the qvevri and fill them.” By contrast, Tbilvino, Georgia’s largest winery, has a vast, hangar-like complex complete with laboratory and rows of hightech equipment. Although the qvevri method of winemaking is most revered in Georgia, other

forward-thinking techniques are employed as well: sparkling wines are created using both the Charmat and bottle-fermented methods, small quantities of international varieties like chardonnay and cabernet are cultivated and aged in oak, and ice wine from Rkatsiteli grapes is made by Marani winery. The longstanding relationship between the Georgian people and wine continues. “We’ve been making wine forever,” says Iago Bitarishvili. “I don’t know how many generations of my family have been doing it, and if you ask my neighbors, they won’t be able to tell you, either.” Next to an old brick church, the voices of a troupe in traditional Georgian warrior dress achieve perfect polyphonic harmony in an eleventh-century strain known as “Thou Art a Vine.” Wafting across the plain to workers already clipping clusters of ripened fruit, the ancient music marks the start of another new harvest in Georgia.

Bitarishvili 的庄园仅占地两公顷，谈到自己的天然有机农法时，他的语气中也尽是谦逊：「大自然比我会酿酒，我们什么也没做，就只是将奎乌丽清洗乾净再装满而已。」格鲁吉亚最大酒厂 Tbilvino 则坐拥大面积的酿酒基地，有如停机坪一般，加上实验室及各式高科技设备一字排开，与小厂形成强烈对比。目前在格鲁吉亚，仍以奎乌丽酿法最受推崇，但也可看到各种最新技术蓬勃发展：以夏马法酒槽发酵及瓶中发酵制作气泡酒；栽培少量霞多丽及法国赤露珠等国际葡萄种，并于橡木桶中熟成；以及 Marani 酒厂用卡斯泰利葡萄酿造冰酒等。格鲁吉亚人和酒密不可分的关系将会延续下去，Iago Bitarishvili 指出：「我们一辈子都在酿酒，早数不清家族中有几代人在酿酒了。」古老的砖瓦教堂旁传来完美的多部和声，一班身穿传统格鲁吉亚战士服装的表演者正唱着十一世纪的圣歌「汝即为藤」。古老的乐音跨越平原，传至庄园中忙着采收一串串葡萄的工人耳里，为格鲁吉亚又一采收季节揭开序幕。 spring sojourn

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TRAVEL DESTINATION

盘中农场

planting, raising, understanding

THE COASTAL ROAD HUGS the brilliant azure of the Andaman Sea before turning inland, becoming rougher as it wends toward Pru Jumpa farm, acres of bounty and natural lakes amidst former rubber plantations in a northern corner of Thailand’s Phuket Island. Pru Jumpa, meaning “forest by the sea,” is owned by Trisara, the award-winning beachfront resort that nestles several kilometers away in an impossibly gorgeous cove all its own. There, forty-one sumptuous villas look out on ocean views that reach toward a horizon of infinite blue. Over the years, guests that have included everyone from Maroon 5 to Hillary Clinton

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have been drawn by its remarkable beauty and prized seclusion – and by its exceptional cuisine. Dining options include the Thaicentric Seafood at Trisara, featuring local dishes based on family recipes passed down by mothers and grandmothers of the staff. Authentic flavors abound, enhanced by the country’s amazing diversity of herbs, vegetables, and spices. This abundance is also in evidence at PRU, another of Trisara’s unique dining experiences, one that’s at the forefront of the burgeoning farm-to-table movement. The restaurant is named for the farm where much of its produce grows, but the three

letters also serve as an acronym for the restaurant’s mission statement honoring the distinctive terroir of the Andaman region: Plant, Raise, Understand. PRU’s elegant new space, yards from the shoreline, has Trisara’s lush grounds as well as its farm for a larder, and for Jim Ophorst, the twenty-seven-yearold Dutch chef who leads the kitchen, it represents a dream fulfilled. Ophorst, who was Thailand’s entrant in the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition, perfected his skills at the multi-award-winning Gaggan restaurant in Bangkok. “I’m truly humbled by the opportunity to work with local fishermen, farmers, and merchants,” he

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TRISARA (2)

Chris Dwyer finds out how one visionary chef takes farm-to-table to a higher plane.

海滨道路环抱着艳蓝无际的安达曼海海岸线，一路连绵延伸至内陆。在这普吉岛的最北端，遍地可见各种作物和天然湖泊，夹杂着几处已经荒废的橡胶园，而通往普姜巴农场的路亦逐渐变得崎岖。普姜巴的意思是「海边的森林」，这里由获奖的度假酒店特瑞萨拉 (Trisara) 所拥有。这座度假村面对壮丽辽阔的海湾，必须往内走几公里才能抵达，只见四十一栋顶级别墅拥抱着无边海景，海天尽处是无垠蔚蓝。近年来，此地的自然风光、隐僻的位置和别具风味的美食吸引了许多游客到访，酒店除了供应泰国正宗的海鲜，也有多样本地风味的餐点，菜式皆为餐馆员工的母亲或祖母传授的私房菜。天然食材的好滋

味，再配上乡间随处采摘的各色香草、蔬菜和香料，风味此处独佳。特瑞萨拉新开幕的餐厅 PRU，将搭上「从农场到餐桌」这股浪潮，最先端出各款天然美味。餐厅的食材多采源自普姜巴农场，因此以其为名。但这三个字母恰巧也是餐厅宗旨的缩写，同时彰显了安达曼地区的风土人情：栽培 (Plant)、饲养 (Raise)、感悟 (Understand)。 PRU 餐厅环境优美，离海岸线仅数尺之遥，郁郁苍苍的绿地加上盛产作物的农场，对二十七岁的丹麦主厨 Jim Ophorst 来说，在这里工作犹如美梦成真。 Jim 曾代表泰国参加 2016 圣培露年轻厨师大赛，曾在位于曼谷、获奖无数的 Gaggan 餐厅磨练过手艺 :「能有机会和本地的

渔人、农夫和零售商合作，使我感到谦逊。」他说：「他们启发我学懂从日常周遭发掘新食材，创立 PRU 餐厅也像是为了向这里的自然馈赠致敬。」 Jim 最近去了农场一趟，发现堆肥土的滋养使得许多作物繁殖昌盛：莱姆树、番茄、泰国南瓜、木瓜、意大利节瓜、小黄瓜、睡莲根、紫椰菜、香草，以及火红辣椒。农场里的天然湖泊里有鲶鱼和其他生物，当天端上餐桌的就是自然放养母鸡刚下的蛋。为了确保土壤的长久品质，甚至还设置了饲虫箱。不过农场仍在草创阶段，还得再等几年才会有果园、凤梨园、以及养牛羊的牧场，到时 PRU 餐厅才真正称得上自给自足。 spring sojourn

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Ophorst harvests Phuket pine needles

says. “They inspire me to discover new ingredients every day, and PRU is a tribute to the gifts of this wonderful region.” On a recent visit to the farm, Ophorst points out this extraordinary endowment flourishing in the composted clay: lime trees, tomatoes, Thai pumpkins, papayas, zucchini, baby cucumbers, water lily roots, red cabbages, pungent herbs, and fiery chilies. The farm’s natural lakes are home to catfish and other species, and organic eggs are served the same day they’re laid by free-range hens. There’s even a wormery to ensure the quality and sustainability of the soil. But the farm is still very much a work in progress, and it will be several years before the orchards, pineapple patch, and cattle and sheep become available and make PRU’s kitchen truly self-sufficient. For now though, the farm’s output shines with Ophorst’s pitch-perfect six-course tasting menu in which each ingredient tells a story, a steady procession of flavors revealing innovation underscored by flawless technique. For instance, Hen Egg, Smoked Catfish, Water

TK | spring sojourn

Lily Roots, and Sorrel Sauce is Pru Jumpa farm on a plate, beautifully presented. And Yellow Tail Hamachi Tartar, Crème Fraiche Vinaigrette, Rosella Powder, Sea Grapes, and Hua Hin Oscietra Caviar sings of the sea. Another standout is a dessert made with Phuket pine needles. In its development, Ophorst extracted the water and dried the residue. “I pressed the soft needles with my hands until they turned into a powdery meal,” he explains, “then mixed in eggs, sugar and butter. It tasted like a crumble cake, like the coarse crust of a pie, with an uncanny hint of green tea. I had my breakthrough, and I began to build the dessert. A slice of young pineapple caramelized with jasmine flowers, a dollop of Thai basil sorbet, a coat of pine-needle cake topped with a tuile of pineapple and rosella powder and young capsicum flowers. The flavors from the grasses, the trees, the flowers stand apart and together, just like they do in the forest.” www.prurestaurant.com

目前 Jim 所推出的六道精选菜单上，不少食材均来自农场，每样食材都有各自的故事。重要的是他发挥创意、运用手艺，不断地推陈出新。比方说，有一道菜摆盘精致，整个农场跃然碟上，食材包括新鲜鸡蛋、烟熏鲶鱼、水莲根，并淋上酸模酱汁。另一道菜是黄尾鰤鱼他他，淋上鲜奶油香醋、洛神花粉、海葡萄，再加少许泰国湾西岸所产鲟鱼做成的鱼子酱。此外，用普吉岛上的松针做的甜点，也是店内招牌。 Jim 的制作步骤是先抽出水分，把它沥干 :「我用双手轻压柔软的松针，直至变成粉状。」他解释道，「再加上几颗蛋、糖和奶油，不断搅拌，尝起来既像奶酥蛋糕，又像苹果派上的脆皮，还有不可思议的淡淡绿茶香。加上几次突破性的尝试，甜点便诞生了。最后加一片淋上焦糖和几瓣茉莉花的小凤梨、一球罗勒雪葩，外头裹着松针的蛋糕顶端加上凤梨薄饼、洛神花粉和小辣椒花。草叶、树木和花朵的香气各自存在，却又融合无间，就像生长在森林里那样。」

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TRISARA (3)

主厨收成普吉岛上的松针

TRAVEL DESTINATION

WINE

隽永风华

imperial style Australia’s most respected winemaker partners with France’s “haute couture of crystal” to create a very limited edition.

TK | spring sojourn

Onboard the Genting Dream is the world’s first Penfolds Flagship Wine Vault at sea 亚洲顶级豪华邮轮「云顶梦号」引入全球首个海上 Penfolds 酒庄旗舰店 —「Penfolds 酒窖」

皇室瓶比双倍马格南瓶、犹太王瓶大，是标准瓶八倍大的酒瓶。在晚餐时从这样一瓶六升装的巨兽中把酒倒入酒杯中看起来有一点奇特，因此澳洲知名酒庄 Penfolds 决定自己来拯救它的「年度皇家仪式」，Aevum 葡萄酒品鉴艺术品，加上 Penfolds 皇室瓶，定价十八万五千美金。

Aevum 葡萄酒品鉴艺术品是酒庄和 1586 年起家、欧洲历史最悠久的水晶制造商－法国水晶艺术工坊圣路易的跨界合作，其制作过程须由圣路易工坊的工匠在 1200 度高温下将熔液塑造成型，再小心翼翼地以手工切割出 1,800 个钻石切割花纹。 Aevum ( 拉丁文中「永恒」之意 ) 的诞生，为保存、升华和增强皇室瓶中 2012 年 Penfolds 葛兰许 (Grange) 的风味，全球限量五瓶。过去 Penfolds 只有零星产出几支皇室瓶葡萄酒，主要是为了窖藏于它的博物馆中。偶而也会在拍卖场上看到它们的踪影，激烈的竞争抢标总是无可避免。2012 年出产的葛兰许品质超凡，得到许多国际品酒家的赞赏和肯定，让 Penfolds 决定一口气推出将这五瓶限量瓶。如今，限量 Aevum 葡萄酒品鉴艺术品其中一瓶，已可在海洋上得赏其身影，就在星梦邮轮旗下首艘亚洲顶级豪华邮轮「云顶梦号」内 Penfolds 酒庄旗舰店 —「Penfolds 酒窖」中展出。「云顶梦号」上的葡萄酒鉴赏家们将可一品 Penfolds 酒庄旗下的系列顶级佳酿，包括 Penfolds 雅塔娜 (Yattarna) 夏多内白葡萄酒 Bin 170 及酒庄顶级名酒葛兰许。在 Penfolds 的旗舰系列中，葛兰许是以来自巴罗萨谷和麦克拉伦谷酒庄 98% 的希哈和 2% 的卡本内苏维翁混酿而成。这个酒款在 1950 年代上市，当时未获得高度评价，然而经发掘出窖藏后的潜质，越陈越香，遂成为市场上争先恐后欲拥有的品项，好评不断。

COURTESY OF PENFOLDS (2)

BIGGER THAN A DOUBLE MAGNUM, bigger than a rehoboam, an imperial is a bottle of wine equivalent to eight standard ones. Since pouring a glass at dinner from such a six-liter behemoth might prove a bit awkward, Penfolds, the renowned Australian winery, has come to the rescue with its Aevum Imperial Service Ritual, which, together with the included imperial of Penfolds, is priced at USD185,000. To produce the decanter, the winery worked with legendary French crystal house Maison Saint-Louis, Europe’s oldest glassmaker, dating to 1586. The decanter begins as a molten blob at 1200°C, which is hand-blown into a mold by the masters of the Saint-Louis workshops and then painstakingly faceted with over 1,800 diamond cuts made one by one. The finished Aevum (Latin for “everlasting time”) is designed to hold, elevate, and facilitate the pouring of the enclosed imperial of 2012 Penfolds Grange, one of only five produced. Penfolds had previously bottled imperials now and then, mostly for cellaring in its own museum. Occasionally, one would be sold at auction, and a sensation would inevitably ensue. The phenomenal quality of the 2012 Grange, with perfect scores from a number of international critics, persuaded Penfolds to release five imperials at once in this special limited edition. One of the five is on the high seas, aboard the recently launched Genting Dream, the flagship of Asia’s premier luxury cruise line, Dream Cruises. The Aevum is showcased in the first-ever Penfolds Wine Vault at sea. Connoisseurs can indulge in an array of fine vintages from Penfolds, including Yattarna chardonnay, Bin 170, and the best of the winery’s signature Grange. As the flagship of Penfolds, Grange is a blend of 98 percent shiraz and 2 percent cabernet sauvignon from vineyards in the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. It was created in the 1950s and wasn’t a big hit at first with critics. But when they discovered how beautifully it ages, they began to rave and haven’t stopped since.

P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

威士忌天堂

whisky heaven A Hong Kong entrepreneur shakes up the way a very steeped-intradition spirit is experienced. CHARLENE DAWES, Hong Kong born and bred, opened her bar Tastings in 2008. With its revolutionary Enomatic wine-dispensing system, it quickly won fans and put the entrepreneur on the road to success. “Having a wine background at Tastings opened the door to all sorts of other drinks,” she says. Then in 2010 she went to Japan. “I was on holiday there and Japanese whisky really piqued my interest. I’d always thought of whisky as a drink for guys sitting on a chesterfield sofa smoking cigars in front of a fire, and I began looking for how I could present it in another way. I didn’t want to open the usual place, but one where whisky could be appreciated differently.” During maturation, whisky evaporates by about 2 percent a year, a loss called the angels’ share, and Dawes thought it would be the perfect name for her classy but homey hideaway on Wyndham Street. “The only

↗ Charlene Dawes 杜家怡 → The Lagavulin lineup of premium single malts 苏格兰拉加维林的优质单一麦芽威士忌 →→ Two hundred years of tradition 传承两百年的传统韵味

TK | spring sojourn

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

DAVID HARTUNG

P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

thing,” she says, “is that people came in thinking my name was Angel!” Dawes discovered that whisky can be bought by the barrel, and she began featuring one in a roped-off area at Angel’s Share. “It’s a very good way of showing off what gives so much of the flavor, color, and unique character to whisky. It’s theatrical – people pay attention, take pictures, and share it as a talking point.” Today Angel’s Share has a varied clientele. “Quite a lot of women are drinking whisky while the guys order cocktails. Whisky is more accessible compared to a few years ago, and giving people an experience is the key. We like customers who are willing to explore.” The bar now features around a hundred and fifty whiskies on rotation, including rarities of just one or two bottles. “Our philosophy is to find things that are more interesting, not as common – people come in and want something special.” In her own extensive exploration, she finds that one whisky stands head and shoulders above the crowd: Lagavulin. “I’ve been to Lagavulin distillery, which just had its two-hundredth anniversary, on my two trips to Scotland. It gives you a connection with the product and the place, you feel the terroir. I slowly got attached to peat. I find it fascinating how it lingers, which explains why I love Islay whisky. The peat is a little bit at the back of the whisky – a confidence, you might say.” For Dawes, tasting notes are very personal. “Females perceive smells and aromas differently, but tasting notes are often written by men, with words like hay, tar, and cigar box. The peat in Lagavulin reminds me of Tai O, a bit of the seaside, but not overpowering. Lapsang Souchong tea is a good comparison because of its smokiness. We need to form our own impressions and describe them in our own way.” How best to enjoy Lagavulin? “There are no hard-and-fast rules – Japanese people like adding soda for a highball, I prefer it neat or with a little bit of ice to knock down the temperature. Ultimately, there’s no right or wrong – enjoy what you enjoy!”

Charlene Dawes（杜家怡）在香港出生长大，2008 年开设 Tastings 酒吧，凭着先进的 Enomatic 智能侍酒机，很快吸引大批饕客，一举攻下市场。她说：「经营 Tastings 葡萄酒吧让我眼界大开，学到不少酒类知识，得以继续探索各式饮品。」 2010 年她前往日本：「本是去度假，但日本威士忌引起我的兴趣。以往我认为威士忌是男人坐在复古皮革长沙发上，靠对着火炉、边抽雪茄边喝的那种酒，但日本之行后，我开始思考用其他方式呈现威士忌。与随处可见的酒吧不同，我想开的是独特品尝威士忌的酒馆。」威士忌在熟成过程中，一年大约会蒸发掉 2%，称为「天使分享 (angel’s share)」， Charlene 认为这个词很适合用来为她在云咸街的酒吧命名。她说：「唯一的问题是，顾客都以为我的名字是 Angel ！」她发现威士忌可以盛在桶子里，便在酒吧里用绳索隔出一个展示区：「这能帮助客人了解何以威士忌具有如此丰沛的香气、色泽和独特个性。想象顾客走进剧场，围着展示区观看细察，拍照分享和发起话题。」如今 Angel’s Share 客群愈发多元化。「很多女士会来此品尝威士忌，男士会选择鸡尾酒。」目前酒吧轮流推出约一百五十种威士忌，包括仅有一、两瓶的稀有酒款， Charlene 说：「我们的理念是发掘和分享有趣的酒款，客人来此都是想找别处难寻的珍品。」她平日广泛探索，并发现一款非同凡响的威士忌－拉加维林。「我参观过苏格兰拥有两百年历史的拉加维林蒸馏厂，你能感受到风土，会觉得产品和当地都特别亲切。它特有的泥煤味在口中氤氲不散，非常迷人，这也是我对艾雷岛威士忌情有独钟的原因。这种泥煤味不妨说是一种知心滋味吧。」 Charlene 认为品酒心得是很私人的事：「女性对于气味和香味有不同的感受，而品酒心得多半是男性写的，较多会用干草、焦油、雪茄盒之类的比喻。拉加维林的泥煤味使我想到香港的大澳，那是靠近海边的气味，但又不会过于强烈；它同时具有烟熏味，恰与中国大陆生产的正山小种红茶形成对比。我们需要主动捕捉脑中印象并描述出来。」该如何品尝拉加维林威士忌呢？ Charlene 坦然：「没有什么严格规定，日本人喜欢在威士忌加入汽水，而我偏爱单喝，或加少许冰块，取其沁爽，总之爱怎么喝就怎么喝！」

“ Whisky is more accessible compared to a few years ago, and giving people an experience is the key. 和几年前相比，威士忌变得更加普及，重点是给客人新鲜的体验。“

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P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

原创理念

an original idea

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

At one of Hong Kong’s most distinctive bars, a classic spirit lives on in style. “PEOPLE THOUGHT we were crazy opening a gin bar!” says Antonio Lai of the day in 2013 when he decided to locate his brainchild, Origin, on Wyndham Street in the heart of the city’s prime restaurant and bar district. Lai, one of Asia’s foremost bar entrepreneurs and mixologists, derived the name from “original gin,” a term for any of the older styles of the spirit that predate Prohibition. His instinct quickly proved correct when gin started exploding in popularity, and now the bar offers more than a hundred gin varieties. One recent innovation is something even jaded Hong Kong has never seen: a takeaway cocktail packed in a tin. “We have a great barrel-aged Negroni,” says Lai, “but I was thinking, why can’t you buy them and bring them home? Not everyone knows how to make cocktails, and now you can just take them to friends and enjoy.” Lai sources the tins from a Barcelona distributor and his designer created the label. The cocktail is sold with a handy set of tools (a rocks glass, an ice-ball mold, and a mini bar spoon) and Lai seals the tins by hand with a custom device. The drink contains Martini Rosso, Campari, and Tanqueray London Dry Gin. “Tanqueray is a great brand,” says Lai. “It has the kind of defined juniper berry flavors a Negroni needs – it’s the classic.” Clever packaging may be one thing, but it’s the drink inside that counts, and Lai’s Tinned Negroni certainly doesn’t fool around.

「我们打算开一家琴酒主题酒吧，大家都觉得我们疯了！」

Antonio Lai 说起 2013 年的某天，他决定选在全城餐厅、酒吧林立的精华地段，云咸街上开设一家倾注他全部心血的酒吧。

Antonio 是香港首屈一指的酒吧老板和调酒师，而酒吧名字来，俏皮地称呼比禁酒时期更早的老派风格。自「original gin」结果证明他的直觉正确－琴酒很快便风靡全市。如今这间酒吧提供超过一百种琴酒，最近加入一款连物资充盈、不虞匮乏的香港也不曾见过的新款式：以锡罐盛装的鸡尾酒，用来外带。Antonio 说 :「我们有在橡木桶中完美熟成的内格罗尼酒，但为什么不能让顾客外带回家品尝？并不是每个人都会调鸡尾酒。现在客人可以直接买下带走，与朋友共享。」

Antonio 从巴塞罗那的厨具经销商处买来大批锡罐，再由他的设计师为锡罐设计商标。外带鸡尾酒还附上一套方便取用的小调酒器具：岩杯、制造冰球的模具以及迷你长柄匙；最后锡罐由他亲手用订制的设备封妥。这款鸡尾酒包含馬丁尼紅香艾酒、金巴利和 Tanqueray 伦敦干琴酒。「Tanqueray 是个很棒的品牌。」Antonio 说，「它具备内格罗尼酒所必需的杜松香味，是种经典的风味。」深具巧思的包装固然吸引，但酒本身的品质更重要，而他的内格罗尼酒绝非浪得虚名。 spring sojourn

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Bar & Lounge 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环苏豪荷李活道23号金珀苑2楼 q +852 2805 8388

Mon to Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri & Sat: 17:00-03:00

Gaggenau Kitchen Appliances Hong Kong 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港黄竹坑香叶道2号 One Island South 19楼 q +852 2890 1522

JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa Bai Khem, Phu Quoc District An Thoi Town Vietnam q +84 77 3779999

TK | spring sojourn

Cape Weligama Resort

Origin Bar & Lounge G/F, 48 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街48号地下 q +852 2668 5583 Mon to Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri & Sat: 17:00-02:00

Abimanagama Rd, Weligama, Sri Lanka q +94 41 2 253000

Piacere Italian Level 28, Marunouchi Trust Tower Main, 1-83 Marunouchi Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 100-8283, Japan q +81 3 6739 7898 Breakfast: Mon to Fri: 06:30-10:00 Sat, Sun & public holidays: 06:30-10:30 Lunch: Mon to Fri: 11:30-14:30 Sat, Sun & public holidays: 12:00-14:30 Afternoon Tea: Sat, Sun & public holidays: 14:30-16:30 Dinner: Mon to Sat: 18:00-21:30 Sun, public holidays: 18:00-21:00 A Smart Casual Children under 6 years old are not allowed in the restaurant for lunch or dinner 5

PRU Phuket European 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, Thalang, Phuket, 83110, Thailand q +66 076 310 100 Daily: 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Rech by Alain Ducasse French Lobby level, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道 18 号香港洲际酒店大堂楼层 q +852 2313 2323 Tue to Sat: 19:00-23:00 Sun: 12:00-14:30; 19:00-23:00 A Smart Casual No sleeveless shirts, short pants, slippers or open-toe shoes for gentlemen 5

DAVID HARTUNG

Angel’s Share

DESSERT

François Delaire, Pastry Chef at Hong Kong’s Rech by Alain Ducasse, presents the restaurant’s signature dessert, Mr. Rech. Named for the founder of the original Rech in Paris, it is composed of hazelnut ice cream between hazelnut meringues and covered in a warm sauce of chocolate from Alain Ducasse’s own workshop in Paris.

PIERRE MONETTA

香港法国餐厅 Rech by Alain Ducasse 的饼房主厨 François Delaire 端出餐厅的招牌甜点－以巴黎本店创办人命名的「Rech先生」。主厨特别选用巴黎自家厰房的巧克力，制成香浓的热巧克力酱，再淋在包裹著丝滑榛果冰淇淋的榛果酥饼上，甜美诱人的滋味令人回味无穷。

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LUNCH BRUNCH SANTÃ&#x2030; APERITIF

DINNER DRINKS

LOCATED AT THE TOP OF TOWER 535 - 26/F NO. 535 JAFFE ROAD CAUSEWAY BAY HONG KONG +852 3708 9668 RESERVATION@SEAFOODROOM.HK

Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com