SELECTING MATERIALS
BRINGING YOUR DESIGNS TO LIFE CLAUDINE ROUSSEAU
An Introduction to Basic Fibres Natural fibres from animals:
Man Made fibres
Wool
Synthetic fibres:
Silk
Polyamide
Cashmere
Polyester
Angora / Mohair /
Elastane
From plants:
Cellulose:
Cotton
Viscose Rayon
Linen
Acetate
Hemp / Bamboo /
Lyocell
A micron is a unit of length equal to one millionth of a metre,
Natural Fibres from Animals
Wool Quality Characteristics The yarn will have differing texture dependent on the sheep.
It is classified from fine, medium to fine cross bred to course cross bred. Properties soft warm flexible resilient absorbent hygenic
Producing countries:
Australia is the largest producer followed by China Uraguay Argentina South Africa
Merino Wool Quality Characteristics
The finer and the crimped the animal wool, the higher the quality of the yarn Merino wool is very fine, soft and strongly crimped Good heat retention capacity
Finish:Superwash
The scaly surface of wool is flattened by a chemical process and coated with a synthetic resin film The superwash finish guarantees protection against felting and ensures machine washability and ease of care
Properties
Flexible Good moisture absorption up to 40% of its own weight without feeling moist Good heat-insulation capacity so warming Soft handle
Producing countries: New Zealand Australia Argentina South Africa
Cashmere Quality Characteristics The hair is obtained from the cashmere goat. Only the downy hair is suitable for processing Per year/goat: 400-500 grams cashmere which makes it a precious material The fibre length is also crucial the longer the fibre, the higher is the quality of the yarn
Properties soft shiny very smooth luxurious
Producing countries: China Central Asian Highlands Mongolia
Silk Quality Characteristics Silk is a natural animal fibre It is obtained from the cocoons of the silkworm It is available in various qualities (depending on the extraction method) Properties Good insulation capability flexible Can absorb a lot of moisture Hardly absorbs any dirt Agreeable to the skin Sensitive to alkalis
Producing countries: China Japan India
Natural Fibres from Plants
Cotton Quality Characteristics the longer the single fiber, the softer and stronger the yarn
Properties
Combing improves the quality of cotton
fine
cool
The frequency of combing increase the quality soft of cotton durable Finish mercerizing: hygienic the cotton is treated with caustic soda Thereby, the surface structure changes: it is easy-care smoothed and gets a permanent gloss, silk-like look and a cool handle pleasant to the skin Combing by combing the cotton become even, strong and more valuable
Producing countries: China India Egypt USA Brazil
Synthetic Fibres
All synthetic fibres fall into two main categories: continuous filament and staple fibre. The invention and research is often driven to offer a cheaper alternative to natural fibres and mimic their properties.
Polyamide Quality Characteristics the strongest chemical fibre light resistant tear and abrasion resistant fast drying easy to clean soft handle feeling dimensional stability and wrinkle restistant
First invented in 1938 by Du Pont commonly known as nylon it is drawn from hydrocarbons derived from coal, petrol or natural gas. The first popular synthetic fibre - offering a cheaper alternative to silk in making stockings and tights postwar.
Polyester Quality Characteristics Very strong Light resistant Temperature resistant Heat-setting ability Colour and dimensionally stable Made from petrol. Invented in Europe after WWll in response to the USA’s invention of nylon.
Elastane Quality Characteristics highly extensible tear and abrasion resistant lightweight Only used on conjunction with other fibres due to breaking when fully flexed.
Cellulose Fibres
Viscose Quality Characteristics absorbent soft and smooth good drape quality rich dyeing outcomes non durable low elasticity - liable to shrinkage Produced from regenerated cellulose usually from wood, it is arguably the first artificial fibre. It was commonly known as ‘artificial silk’ in in the 1920s due to its silk like properties.
Lyocell Quality Characteristics handle as natural plant fibres (cotton) soft and smooth good drape quality rich dyeing outcomes high absorbency - 50% more than cotton hypoallergenic good wicking properties
It is third generation cellulose from viscose. The cellulose is drawn from sustainable forestry usually eucalyptus trees and the fibre is biodegradable.
From Fibre to processed to create yarn to Fabric
Fabric Structures THE GRAIN LINE
Knitted Woven Bonded
weight structure tightness of weave or knit fibre blend
KNIT STRUCTURE
Plain weave
Weft Knit
courses
warp
Impact on look, handle, feel, performance
WOVEN STRUCTURE
wales
we$
ROLL OF FABRIC selvedge 45o
Blending Fibres Quality improvement: Use properties Clothing physiological properties Care properties Appearance - colour / gloss effects Cost
true bias width
weft
warp selvedge
90o
length
THE STRAIGHT GRAIN runs in the direction of the warp (i.e. down the length of the fabric) / parallel to the selvedge
CLAUDINE ROUSSEAU
Fabric Structures - Woven
Plain weave
Twill weave Satin weave
Fabric Structures - Knitted
Stockinette Stitch
Rib
aran
Warp knit
Knit structures are miainly weft kniitted or warp knitted. Weft knitting can be hand or machine whereas weft knitting is only by machine.
Fabric Structures - Other
Felting
Tyvek prefabriated polymer fibres
Fabric end use - fit for purpose?
Neoprene synthetic rubber
Wet Suit Head
Lanvin