TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN FEB ISSUE 2020

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Volume 8

INTERVIEWS J M Balaji , LRT Team Of Karl Mayer and ATE SRTEPC Award Winners Views Financial Update of Few Companies MARKET REPORT Yarn Report Surat Report Apparel Report BRAND UPDATE Staubli Saurer NITMA UPDATE

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 42018Office at Branch Coimbatore www.textilevaluechain.com February 2020

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CONTENT February 2020

ARTICLES 11- Contemporary Issues In Textile Industry by Bshsc Student and Professor of SVT college of Home science 12- Waste Management at Source by TestTex India Laboratory 14- Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting: Eliminating Pre-Consumer Fabric Waste In The Pattern Cutting Room by M- Tech Student and Professor of SVT College of Home science 19- Implementation Of Sentimental Analysis Of Twitter DataSet For The Apparel Industry by Professors of SVVV, Indore 22- Smart Clothing: the Future by Ayman Satopay , Student of SVT College 23- Antimicrobial Finish For Home Textiles by M. Sundar Murugesan, Joint Director , HEPC

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INTERVIEW 53- J.M. Balaji , Head Marketing – LRT 54- Karl Mayer and ATE Team 56- SRTEPC Award Winners Views

BRAND UPDATE

28- Factors Affecting The Air Permeability Of Sports Fabrics

by NTC and VJTI

50- Staubli

32- Regression Model Development by NEWAY SEBOKA, Mentored by TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS

52- SHOW CALENDAR

51- Saurer

MARKET REPORT 35- Yarn Report by Textile Beacon 36- Financial Update

Advertiser Index

37- Surat Report

Back Page : Raymond

39- Fabric Report

Back Inside : Raysil

40- Garment Report

Front Inside : Rimtex

EVENT REPORT

Page3 : Liva

43- ITME AFRICA 2020

Page 4: DN Associates

45- SRTEPC Export Award Function

Page 5: ATE Page 6: ITM 2020

47- Premiere Vision Paris

Page 7: IITExpo Mumbai

48- NITMA Views on Polyester

Page 8 : Gartex Mumbai Page 58: Vora Associates

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan February 2020

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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EDITORTIAL WASTE MANAGEMENT, RECYCLING WILL EASE WITH PROPER IMPLEMENTATION OF INDUSTRY 4.0…. !

‘‘

Irony is, People developing Artificial Intelligence and Robots neglecting Real Human intelligence and man power ― J.K. Rowling,

’’

Industry 4.0 is all about Artificial intelligence connected through internet, Virtual network. Smart phones already given compulsion to be virtual connected. At Industrial level; Automation, Robots, AI , Data collection already implemented to few corporates of India, which is making production management life more easy, with click of button now industry and business is managed.

AI world invites lot of high speed internet, conjunction free services, uninterrupted data speed, high transmission of information, which is challenge for India today. In India internet is provided by private cable operator, Telecom operators, private companies which is having maximum 4G speed and not uniform at times.

Cybercrime, security is major issue we are facing in the industry. Major population is IT information / Knowledge deficient, no proper security is given to industry to save data.

Smart phone is not smart for security barring few ones.

Waste is the reality, processing of it is the major issue facing in India. Waste technology never considered priority or important in our county as compare to other developed countries When factory become digitized, virtually connected , every waste will be mapped at every stage of production , smart factory will have proper technique to get rid of waste from factory by way of auction and proper timely management. Metro city where space is less Waste is consuming lot of space, AI plays a very crucial role which results in properly integration of Circular economy value chain.

AI , Industry 4.0 can be applied to everywhere , it starts from our mindset to product, system to factory, and our daily office culture to Family culture. Connecting Virtually through Social media is the AI which is controlling our relationships.

Intelligence can be artificially created but Wisdom to apply that Intelligence is only Human brain can do! Live carefully Industry 4.0 Life and achieve your Vision with AI.

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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February 2020

OVERVIEW CONTEMPORARY ISSUES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY largest producer of cotDR. SUMAN MUNDKUR ton. It is largest producer of jute in the Associate Professor world. HowDepartment of Textiles and Apparel ever, these Designing features do not sumSVT college of Home Science marise the current scenario of the sector.

On AYMAN SATOPAY March 2019, there was an explosion in a B. Sc (Textile and Apparel Design) chemical plant SVT college of Home Science in China which TVC Intern killed 71 people and injured more than 100.

This accident The contemporary issues faced by the Indian textile industry caused a huge impact on the supply is a topic of frequent discussion in of dye materials to exporting counthe media. Most discussions focus tries; India being one of them. This on consumers’ social point of view; led to an increase in the cost of dye less on the impact it has on the ex- intermediaries. ports from India, crisis situations and Availability of quality cotton had been the environment. The significant is- a major issue for Indian spinning mills sues faced by the textile industries due to lower production, following such as a shortage in supply of raw drought in its major cultivating states materials, increase in the cost of raw like Maharashtra, Gujarat, Telangana material, shortage of skilled labour in and Andra Pradesh. Because of this the country, environmental compli- shortage the cotton price jumped ance, fall in import and export rate. A high. Due to the recent issue going recent crisis related to the supply of on in China related to disease called oil from Iraq due to conflict between coronavirus, many companies have Iraq and the USA, increase in the cost stopped exporting to China, which in of wool due to the bush fire in Aus- turn have affected the cotton price in tralia, and coronavirus in China and exporting countries and India being other areas affecting the cotton rate one of them. has led to drastic change in the industry that needs to be looked upon. Australia is a leading producer of wool, however the massive fires The textile and apparel industry is caused, has impacted its production. one of the earliest industries devel- Iraq is the largest supplier of oil to Inoped in India. Its entire value chain dia; which is used to make synthetic from fibre to apparel manufactur- fabrics like polyester and nylon. Howing has a strong presence within the ever, due to controversy between country. It is the biggest employer Iraq and USA there was declined in after agriculture. India is the second supply of oil to India. Thus, affecting largest producer of textiles and gar- cost of man-made fabrics. ments after China and also second Textile Industry has been under in-

February 2020

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creasing pressure to meet social and environmental norms in International market. Environmental compliance is not at the top of textile and garments importers concern. Failing to comply with environmental regulation can put the supply chain at risk.

Goods service tax is a consumption tax applied on goods and services implemented in 2017. Before GST other taxes were paid such as sales tax/ VAT tax, service tax. The impact of GST on the industry has been observed. This is because the tax on the cost of material under the regime of GST has been increased.

Gujarat is a major textile producer in India. A large proportion of workers employed in the Units here come from Bihar, Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal. In 2018 there was a mob attack on the Hindi speaking migrants in Gujarat due to which many workers returned to their home town so because of this mass return in that period led to reduction in production.

India’s apparel exports have fallen for two years in a row. Estimated at $16.2 billion in FY19, the country’s apparel exports fell by 1.2% from FY18, which in turn was 4% lower than the previous year. This came after a consistent annual average growth of 5.7% between FY10 and FY16. The reasons for the slowdown range from issues on the domestic front to slackening global demand.

The Government initiatives to overcome this issue includes the schemes such as Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) Ministry of Textiles: With Aim of ‘Make in India’ and ‘Zero Defect and Zero Effect’ in manufacturing, the government provides credit linked capital investment subsidy. This scheme would facilitate augmenting of investment, productivity, quality, employment, exports and import substitution in textile industry. It will also indirectly promote investment in textile machinery manufacturing. (SITP)

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OVERVIEW Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks: y The scheme operates to provide funding for private entrepreneurs to construct textile units with all the world-class infrastructure features. y Identify the well-groomed location for the Textile Units to meet the geographical, social and international standards. y Bring considerable growth in the export rate. y Generate huge employment opportunities.

In order to meet the skill gap in the industry and to supplement its efforts initiated through the Special Package for Garments and Madeups, the Government has approved the new scheme titled ‘Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS)’ for the entire value chain of textile except spinning and weaving in the organized sector, for a period of three years from 2017-2018 to 2019-2020 with an outlay of Rs. 1300 Crores. Prime Minister Narendra Modi launched the Make in India initiative on September 25, 2014, with the primary goal of making India a global manufacturing hub, by encour-

aging both multinational as well as domestic companies to manufacture their products within the country.

Led by the Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion, the initiative aims to raise the contribution of the manufacturing sector to 25% of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP) by the year 2025 from its current 16%. ‘Make in India’ has introduced multiple new initiatives, promoting foreign direct investment, implementing intellectual property rights and developing the manufacturing sector. It targets 25 sectors of the economy which range from automobile to Information Technology (IT) & Business Process Management (BPM), the details of each can be viewed on the official site (www.makeinindia.com). It also seeks to facilitate job creation, foster innovation, enhance skill development and protect intellectual property. The logo of ‘Make in India’ – a lion made of gear wheels – itself reflects the integral role of manufacturing in Government’s vision and National development. Visits to Research Institutions such as CIRCOT, WRA and BTRA helped in gaining information related to the upcoming projects and steps taken to address some contemporary

issues in the textile and apparel Industry.

Overcoming these current issues is vital. Various provisions are to be implemented including shifting towards sustainable fashion.Presently dyes obtained from algae could be used for colors or mushroom leather. Smart stitch could be a working way for sustainability. Recycling/upcycling of garments as opposed to purchasing newly produced clothes also forms part of making sustainable fashion choices. There is a need to work on correcting the challenges in the form of outdated technology, inflexible labor laws and infrastructure bottlenecks. While India has abundant supply of labor, flexibility in labor laws and adequate skilling will give a big boost to the textiles industry. If these contemporary issues are given attention, they could be tackled in years to come. While weavers and designers are gradually shifting to sustainable fashion, what aids their shift the most is demand by conscious consumers.

Thus, if the customers are aware and take initiate to switch to slow fashion, it couldbe a better and environment compliant industry.

WASTE MANAGEMENT

WASTE MINIMISATION AT SOURCE suitable treatment for its safe disposal, to protect living beings, environment, ecology along with flora & fauna.

MAHESH SHARMA

MEETA SHINGALA

CEO

MD

Testtex India Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. INTRODUCTION Every manufacturing, processing or preparation of a product through

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the use of resources inadvertently produces waste as well. Thus waste can be considered as a misplaced resource. Waste generated requires

Consumer awareness in matters of environmental and health problems has a direct bearing on textiles and clothing. Buyers are more informed about the pollutants in close-to-theskin textiles like bedsheets and undergarments. New information concerning allergy and cancer-inducing chemicals in materials forces consumers and manufacturers to react.

In developed countries, the consumer has the right to know what input materials have gone in the production, whether the product is free of or

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February 2020

WASTE MANAGEMENT within the limit for leftover residual chemicals along with meeting environmental and social obligations during the production processes.

UNDERSTANDING WASTE All wastes can be broadly classified into four main categories: • Hard to treat waste • Highly dispersible waste • Hazardous/toxic waste • High volume waste Hard-to-treat waste: - Waste which persists or resists to normal treatments are referred to as hard-to-treat waste. These waste include color, metals, phosphates, phenols and certain organic materials especially surfactants which resist bio-degradation.

Extremely expensive and very difficult processes will be involved in their removal through wastewater treatment.

Highly dispersible waste: - Certain waste, if allowed to discharge: tend to become widely dispersed and hard to treat. It is advisable to reduce or to collect such waste at source. Machinery modification, process modification, Chemical Modification, Change in procedure or other primary control measures can often accomplish better results with such type of wastes at a lower cost than the treatment. Such reclaimed waste in the concentrated form usually has high commercial reuse value.

Hazardous/toxic waste: - This includes metals and various types of organic materials and surfactants of high aquatic toxicity. It is advisable to affect chemical substitution in such cases. Since the treatment of these hazardous or toxic process wastes give rise to undesirable solids in the form of hazardous sludge.

High Volume Waste:- Sometimes large-volume wastes can be reduced by process modification or chemical substitution or they are either reused on-site or off-site.

Each of the above types of waste orig-

February 2020

inates from a variety of textile operations.

CONCEPT OF WASTE MINIMIZATION AT SOURCE Many treatment systems simply remove an undesirable process of waste or by-product from one media and capture it in another. For e.g.scrubbers on smokestacks remove undesirable combustion product by dissolving them in water. Another example is the biodegradation of chemical waste in textile wastewater, which produces waste sludge (a solid waste). These solids have to be disposed and traditional landfilling of sludge has an associated problem of contamination of groundwater. Thus, treatment strategies tend to create a chain of waste products which leads to expenses and liability of various types.

An important alternate is source reduction. This concept helps to determine changes that can be made to reduce waste at the source.

Different techniques of source reductions often used are : • Raw material control • Conservation/optimization of chemicals • Chemical substitution • Process modification • Equipment modification • Maintenance Procedures • Housekeeping • Waste recovery (for reuse/recycle) • Segregation Combinations of these techniques may be used to achieve substantial savings. Such savings keep on increasing with the ever-rising cost of inputs. On the other hand, losses and costs of waste treatment will produce an ever-increasing economic disadvantage to processors.

Raw material control, optimization of chemicals and chemical substitution is important techniques of

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source reduction. These also form an integral part of chemical management. In totality, they aim towards cleaner production by helping to meet the requirement of eco-labeling and discharge standards along with meeting regulations such as REACH for SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern), GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals).

An increasingly large number of chemicals have now been categorized as toxic, carcinogenic allergenic or hazardous, Use of such chemicals is undesirable and thus losing favor.

Raw material control includes identification of the harmful chemicals and their probable source in fibers, in sizing ingredients, certain dyes, preparation chemicals, and finishing chemicals, etc. Safety data sheet of each input to be referred for LC 50 or IC 50 values and the biodegradability of the product in addition to safe handling procedures or should be confirmed by testing before use.

Avoid the use of toxic, carcinogenic and allergenic banned dyes, chlorinebased bleaching agents and chlorinated solvents (which give rise to the problem of AOX) and other toxic pesticides& chemicals which persists biodegradation and thus are bio-accumulative.

It also includes minimizing the quantities of restricted chemicals like formaldehyde, sulfides and heavy metal salts, etc.

Chemical substitution for harmful chemicals is an important task. The environment forces are driving chemical manufactures to provide new, friendly and “green” preparations and finishing chemicals are being developed and these are surely going to sweep away the traditional agents.

Good housekeeping does not necessarily mean sweeping or cleaning of the chemicals and water which spills over or falls on the floor but avoiding their spillage by proper handling.

Sweeping or cleaning transfers the

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WASTE MANAGEMENT chemicals into the effluent thus increasing the load on effluent treatment.

Another element of source reduction contributes to the conservation of natural resources – Energy and Water, which are becoming costly and scare day by day.

LINEAR ECONOMY Vis-A-Vis CIRCULAR ECONOMY Our current economy is based on the ‘Take-Make- Dispose’ model. It is an extractive industrial model also called the linear economy. It has increasingly become clear that the linear economy is no longer tenable within the limits of our planet. The linear economy has put pressure on resources, energy, and materials.

It has also increased pollution and unleashed toxicity on earth through increased ‘Making-Taking- Disposing’

of products and materials, (Waste) leading to irreversible environmental issues. The resource consumption has doubled in the period 1980-2020 and will triple in the period up to 2050 when business-as-usual models are followed. All of this waste leads to the four Big Blunders – they are Buried or Burnt or accumulated in our Bodies or are blowing around on earth. The linear economy is not sustainable.

We have to look beyond the linear economy. The traditional practice of Reduce, Reuse and Recycle is necessary but not sufficient. The degree of environmental and health damage caused necessitates us to look beyond this. A circular economy is an alternative in which we keep resources in use for as long as possible, extract the maximum value from them whilst in use, then recover and regenerate

products and materials at the end of each service life. In other words, the circular economy improves sustainability through maximizing resource utilization and minimizing waste production.

BENEFITS OF SOURCE REDUCTION: •

Decreased waste liability (waste collection, handling, and treatment costs) • Decreased loss of material & energy, i.e. more profits • Possibility of recycling to have a recovery value of waste • Meeting requirements of eco labels& discharge standards.

• Compatible with the philosophy of regulations like REACH, GOTS and ZDHC. • Promotes the Circular Economy.

WASTE MANAGEMENT-FABRIC

ZERO-WASTE PATTERN CUTTING: ELIMINATING PRE-CONSUMER FABRIC WASTE IN THE PATTERN CUTTING ROOM MEHERR KAUR SAWHNEY M. Design (Fashion Design) SVT College of Home Science S.N.D.T Women’s University

DR. SABITA BARUAH Assistant Professor, Fashion Design SVT College of Home Science S.N.D.T Women’s University

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Abstract With the growing acceptance of the ideal of sustainability, a paradigm shift is occurring in the field of fashion. With consumer tastes now being inspired by ideas of the upcycling, circular design, and slow fashion, many designers are being compelled by circumstances to reduce the carbon footprint left behind by the fashion industry. These endeavors are primarily targeted towards reducing waste generated during the garment manufacturing phase. Regrettably, these efforts are not being intelligently directed at preventing wastage at the designing and cutting stage itself.

Conformist manufacturing methods such as the “Cut and Sew Method” that have been in practice for over 500 years now, generally yield up to 85 percent of fabric consumption efficiency. Consequently, 15 percent of fabric wastage occurs in the cutting room itself. This wastage is leaving behind a “significant

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February 2020

WASTE MANAGEMENT- FABRIC ecological footprint�. Unconventional and eccentric pattern-making methods such as subtraction method, geo-cut method and A-POC have now gained popularity; conversely, zero-waste pattern cutting (ZWPC) as a concept has not been extensively used or proliferated yet. To comprehend the unpopularity of ZWPC, a thorough understanding of the concept and its benefits and drawbacks were studied through an extensive review of research work and projects undertaken and executed by experts and novices in the field of ZWPC. It was found that there are limited challenges faced in adopting the concept and it can be widely implemented to resolve the problematic disposal, reuse or recycling of fabric wastage.

Keywords: Pattern cutting, Sustainability, Fabric waste, Zero – waste pattern cutting.

Introduction Textile or fabric waste is generated during the pre-consumer or postconsumer stage in a fashion cycle.

At the pre-consumer stage, it can be fiber, yarn, fabric, and/or garments during the manufacturing process.

Textile waste at the post-consumer stage maybe a garment or redundant household item. Sincere endeavors to reduce, recycle, and reuse waste generated at every stage are being carried out. However, the pre-consumer textile waste produced during the design and cutting processes is being neglected.[1] Nearly 15 percent of fabric is lost as off-cuts during the pattern cutting stage in the garment manufacturing process. In addition to the primary fabric being wasted, other natural and human resources are also wasted. In particular, resources devoted to and embedded into the manufacturing process of the fabric are also wasted alongside. Therefore, addressing the origin of the problem by utilizing as much of the fabric and diminishing the wastage is the need of the hour. Embracing a zero-waste design approach condenses fabric

February 2020

waste in addition to the pressure on other resources.[2] Ordinarily, 15 to 25 percent of the fabric which is required to construct a garment ends up as waste as a result of deep-rooted and multifaceted conventions of designing a garment, pattern cutting, and garment production practices. In the case of outerwear for adults, the fabric wastage fluctuates between 10 to 20 percent. Approximately 10 percent of wastage occurs for trousers or pants. Higher percentages of wastages occur for blouses, jackets, and underwear. In any case, 100 percent utilization of the fabric is not possible with traditional pattern cutting methods due to the irregularity in the shapes of the pattern pieces [1](refer fig 1). The variation in the amount of waste (10-20+ percent) is dependent on numerous variables.

They may include: a) Style of the garment (number, size, and shapes of pattern pieces) concerning the width of the fabric; b) Number of the garment sizes included in one marker and c) Expertise of the marker-maker (manual or computer-aided).[3]

Fig 1. A marker plan with 4 graded size patterns showing efficiency of 86.89% [3]

After scrutinizing probable factors contributing to wastage of fabric during the construction of fashion garments, it came to the forefront that fabric waste is contemplated only at the marker planning and making stage in the manufacturing process.

At this stage, the garment design is already unalterable; it cannot be modified. If the objective is to eliminate wastage, this scrutiny suggests that fabric waste ought to become a cause of concern at a much earlier stage,

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and in the design process itself.

To eliminate wastage, fabric waste needs to be considered right from the start and throughout designing and pattern cutting. Garment design and subsequent pattern cutting direct the entire manufacturing process.[3] The efficiency of the fabric yardage lies in the hands of the marker planner and maker, and to a certain degree the pattern maker. In the current practice of garment manufacturing, it is highly unlikely for the fashion designer to be concerned about the fabric usage. A designer usually follows trends, styles, etc. and the optimum use of fabric is not a factor that is taken into account while conceptualizing a garment.[5] Even if the designer does keep in mind fabric usage at the conceptualizing stage, it is not one of the main factors. At the pattern making stage, the pattern maker can suggest tweaks in the design to cut down fabric consumption. Still, there is only so much a pattern maker can do, as it is extremely difficult to accurately visualize the layout of all the pattern pieces with their grain lines on the length and width of the fabric. Hence, once the pattern finally makes its way to the marker-maker, it is directly constrained by parameters set by the pattern maker and also indirectly restricted by the designer’s original creation. [3][4] This paper enables one to understand the fundamental concept behind ZWPC and its origin. It will also help in comprehending the hesitation or reluctance for adopting it as an ideal method for eliminating fabric waste. The paper also discusses the principal benefits and limitations of ZWPC. Before arriving at meaningful conclusions, several research papers, conference presentations, and experimental studies/projects of various designers were reviewed.

Traditional pattern cutting Pattern cutting is not just another routine endeavor to assist in the construction process of the garments.

On the other hand, patter cutting is

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WASTE MANAGEMENT- FABRIC an art that involves creativity and ingenuity of the highest order. Patter cutting entails the art of manipulating a piece of two-dimensional fabric to conform to the curves of the wearer’s body [ 5] (fig 2).

Pattern cutting acts as a bridge between the two processes: designing and that of garment production.

Perhaps, pattern cutting is to an accomplished designer what a brush is to an artist. It involves the conversion of a two-dimensional sketch to an actual garment that fits and moves on a three-dimensional body.[5]

cept. Many historical clothing items consciously designed patterns and concepts wherein less fabric was wasted in the process of constructing fashionable garments. Some of the noteworthy examples of the zerowaste design philosophy include ethnic costumes and traditional national dresses.[8]

Zero-waste design philosophy Zero-waste is a design process or philosophy which intends to eliminate fabric waste at the design conceptualization stage itself.[2] Pattern cutting plays a vital role in this design process. Unlike in the case of conventional garment manufacturing, the wastage of fabric during the pattern cutting process is quite meticulously taken into consideration at the designing phase itself. [4]

Similarly, the curve is achieved at the bottom of the sleeve by simply easing the surplus seam allowance on the inside.[4]

Fig 4. Traditional Indian saree drapes [10]

Fig 3. Ancient Greek costumes. 1. Dorian Chiton 2. Chlamys[9]

Fig 2. A flat pattern of a top with a twist at centre bust [6]

Zero-waste design finds its roots in longstanding practices of utilizing an entire piece of cloth so that none of it ends up in disposal fields. In the current scenario in the fashion industry, whenever sustainability is the preeminent theme, ZWPC has emerged as a useful means to create a sustainable approach to garment manufacturing.

[7]

Zero-waste design philosophy showcased in ancient and ethnic costume The zero-waste approach towards designing and constructing garments is not entirely a new con-

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attire and the quintessential Indian saree also have one more aspect in common. They both permit almost endless possibilities in which one can drape and pin them [4] (fig 3 & fig 4).

Many traditional attires depict an affinity to ‘Jigsaw Puzzle’ styling. The cut of a Japanese kimono is perhaps the best-known example showcasing a striking resemblance to a jigsaw puzzle (fig 5); the garment pieces are plotted to the width and length of the fabric. No fabric waste is created in the cutting process of a kimono.

Superfluous fabric is used to create structure in the front neck by pleating it inside the collar instead of cutting and wasting it.

Fig 5. Cut of Kimono [3]

The himation, chiton, peplos, and the likes worn by men and women in ancient Greece stand out as prime examples. In contemporary times, the saris adorned by women in India serve as an example of zero waste garment creation. The ancient Greek and contemporary Indian styles are based on the identical concept of using a rectangular piece of fabric with no cutting and sewing involved. In both instances, a piece of cloth of rectangular shape is draped and pinned in place on the body.[4] Ancient Greek

The utilization of the entire length and width of the fabric is not a new phenomenon. The zero-waste design process has been used in the construction of Japanese kimonos and also weaving of Indian saris as it ensures that valuable textiles are not wasted. However, this ideology became less popular and obsolete after the industrialization of fashion and the advent of fast fashion, which endorses the mass-production of garments.[2] The Pre-Industrial Revolution period saw textile production and garment manufacturing not only as highly

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February 2020

WASTE MANAGEMENT- FABRIC time-consuming but also as very labor-intensive. As fabrics were then considered as a valuable resource, Pre-Industrial Societies strived to incorporate and include every piece of fabric in the design. This resulted in almost 100 percent usage of the fabric. After the Industrial Revolution, the textile industry improved with the dawn of newer and faster technologies, which were being used in textile production. This resulted in fabric wastage being disregarded as a problem or of serious concern as fabrics had become inexpensive. In most instances, the cost of fabric waste had an insignificant impact on the profit margin.[8]

Fig 6. Zero-waste duffel coat by David Telfer (using slash technique) [9]

Zero-waste pattern cutting process ZWPC process generally starts with some elementary guiding principles such as the type of garment and the width of the fabric.[2] In this process, garments are created through the pattern cutting method by fashion designers working within the space of the width of the fabric. Thus, garment design is now influenced by the pattern cutting process itself rather than the conventional sketch. Therefore, the primary design consideration is the pattern cutting.[11] A critical consideration in the ZWPC approach to garment design and construction is the width of the fabric. It is not possible to design and produce a zero-waste garment without having prior knowledge of the width of the textile. The width of the fabric is the canvas within which the designer cre-

February 2020

ates a zero-waste garment design.[2]

Limitations of ZWPC

Crucial in developing a keen understanding of the various creative pattern cutting methods is the knowledge of basic manipulation of shapes and forms and their relationship with the wearer’s body. This profound understanding can lead to a logical progression into the ZWPC approach towards the design and construction of fashion garments. Garments have progressed from simple shapes and forms. Understanding the correlation between the pattern, the fabric, the shape of the body is imperative; exploiting this equation ingeniously is equally important.[12] •

A zero-waste pattern that is a square does not, for example, have to be a poncho, as Japanese Fashion Designer Tomoko Nakamichi explains: “I began making patterns for garments, starting with the circle, then the triangle and the square...When you wrap these shapes around you, the excess fabric flares or drapes elegantly...Geometric figures can produce beautiful shapes.” [12] Creation of garment patterns with pockets, cuff, collar, gussets, and trims that connect like a jigsaw puzzle, or by directly draping geometric shapes on the drape forms happen to be two common approaches. However, there can be many approaches to zero-waste garment construction (fig 6). There are no rules or fixed guidelines like in the case of conventional pattern cutting techniques, except one, i.e., there should be no single scrap left on the floor of the cutting room after the pattern is cut. This approach assists in eliminating millions of tons of garbage in the form of fabric off-cuts per year.[11] ZWPC has reconnected designers and garment manufacturers to two ideologies which were prevalent hundreds of years ago. First, being that fabric is in itself a finished product and second, placing greater emphasis on the role of a pattern cutter in the conventional hierarchy of garment designing and manufacturing.[12]

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Designing zero-waste garments through sketching is difficult.[11] The vast majority of fashion designers do not and cannot stipulate the construction of the garment designed by them. This is a major setback as indepth knowledge of pattern cutting and garment construction lies at the core of the ZWPC process.[13] • In addition to the previous point, most designers (not just fashion designers) visualize fabrics within a simple 2– dimensional structure.

They tend to perceive fabrics along a single visual plane, which in its humblest form, can be suspended like a curtain, or possibly be manipulated into a 3– dimensional form as a chair cover, or perhaps a dress. However, the practice of ZWPC does require a more nuanced intercession between a 2 – dimensional pattern and a 3 – dimensional form as compared to the rather straightforward fashion design practice where the 3–dimensional form virtually always controls the 2– dimensional pattern completely.[13] • A key factor affecting the integration of ZWPC process into mainstream fashion is the distinct separation of roles of a fashion designer and a pattern cutter in the garment manufacturing process; because as discussed earlier either these two roles need to be performed by the designer himself, or the pattern cutter and the designer need to closely work together to merge the job roles.[3] • The lack of aesthetic control a fashion designer has over a zero-waste garment is a common criticism faced by the ZWPC process.[13]A a major challenge identified in ZWPC is the creation of a commercially viable, innovative, and desirable garment style.

Moreover, the garment style should be chic and contemporary while not being too theatrical. This is a concern that needs to be addressed as the garment design is mainly dictated by the cutting method.[12] Consumers prefer garments which are typical in their aesthetics. Here, typical means those which are termed classics or

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WASTE MANAGEMENT- FABRIC are currently in style.[14] • ZWPC is a creative challenge. For it to be widely accepted as a manufacturing process requires the zero-waste garment to be mass-produced in multiple sizes. A recent study of literature has strongly expressed this as one of the main concerns but unfortunately offered no practical solution.[15]

Benefits of ZWPC and possible solutions to overcome its limitations • One of the economic benefits of the ZWPC process is that cutting the pattern becomes fairly faster, as each cutting line separates at least two pattern pieces. Traditionally designed garments do not have many common cutting lines, as one might call it a “shared cut line”, even though it is measured desirable. A garment comprising of 20 pattern pieces usually takes longer to cut than a garment consisting of 10 pattern pieces. However, a zero-waste garment containing 20 pattern pieces is faster to cut than a similar conventional garment having 20 pattern pieces, owing to the shared cut lines.[3] • The cost of fabric waste management and subsequent disposal is also either considerably reduced or eliminated.[3] • Conventional methods of grading patterns cannot be applied to ZWPC. There is no room for expansion or contraction of the pattern shapes, as they lay flush against each other.

Since patterns are characteristically graded more widthwise than lengthwise, it is rather impossible to do so in ZWPC as the layout of pattern pieces are positioned to cover every inch of the width. There is also no room to expand patterns widthwise. While rotating the pattern shapes would allow growth along the length of the fabric, this would change the grainline of the pattern pieces and in turn affect the fall and overall look of the garment.

An alternate method suggests the utilization of lace insertion in ZWPC to achieve size variation. By keeping the pattern shapes constant and in-

18

serting varying lengths and widths of laces, grading of a garment pattern developed using the ZWPC process is hence achieved.[15]

4. Rissanen, T. (2005), From 15% to 0: Investigating the creation of fashion without the creation of fabric waste, Paper presented at Creativity: Designer Meets Technology conference, Copenhagen.

Conclusion

5. Bhati, M. (2011), Basics of Pattern Making, Fashion article on fibre2fashion.com.

Retrieved from https://www.fibre2fashion. com/industry-article/5658/basics-of-patternmaking

Though ZWPC has the potential to completely transform the fashion design industry and its effects on the environment, the narrow understanding of the connection between fabrics and form restricts the way the problem is approached.

Questions on how technology has in the past further enhanced shape form-making by pursuing some of the discoveries and innovations in the work of designers such as Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara in A-POC (1999 - present) should be raised. This can help decipher the root cause of the lack in understanding the codependency of fabrics and design.

The concept of ZWPC has not been a part of traditional fashion design education provided the world over.

Zero – waste garment design entails intuitive and creative thinking about the design process as well as the final look of the garment. Therefore, active teaching strategies should be developed and implemented to train a new generation of designers equipped in ZWPC. Lastly, ZWPC which is closely linked to sustainability has the potential to act as a catalyst to a highly creative partnership between the design and cutting team; ultimately resulting in a commercially viable production model for the fashion industry.

References 1. Saeidi, E. & Wimberley, V. (2015), Precious Cut: A Practice-Based Research Toward ZeroWaste Design by Exploring Creative Pattern Cutting Methods and Draping Techniques, Event presentation at the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings.43, Santa Fe, New Mexico.

2. The EcoChic Design Award, Zero-Waste Design Technique. Retrieved from http:// www.modopactua.com/pdf/LEARN_Zerowaste_ENG.pdf 3. Rissanen, T. (2013), Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A Study At The Intersection Of Cloth, Fashion Design And Pattern Cutting

6.https://www.instagram.com/p/BzhudymFbr/?igshid=6m6lcpdazar 7.Shakya, A. (2017), Integrated waste minimization techniques in apparel design: a sustainable perspective [A Synopsis submitted for the partial fulfillment of the degree of doctor of philosophy (Home Science), September 2016.

8.Gam, H.J. & Banning, J. (2018), Outcomes of Implementing Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting in Fashion Design Courses, Oral presentation at the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings.83, Cleveland, Ohio. Retrieved from https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2018/presentations/83/ 9.https://twitter.com/bibliocuriosa/status/10 50260359704129536?lang=fi 10.https://www.google.com/ gres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hergamut.in%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017 %2F07%2FSaree-Draping01.&imgrefurl=htt ps%3A%2F%2Fwww.hergamut.in%2Fsareedraping-styles%2F&docid=ngon2cLiMCdK FM&tbnid=aYjwkprEfgd82M%3A&vet=1& w=741&h=494&bih=481&biw=1163&ved =2ahUKEwjY58uO0OblAhXNmq0KHYHXD iIQxiAoBXoECAEQIQ&iact=c&ictx=1 11.Kumari, P. (2017), Zero – waste fashion, International Journal of All Research Education and Scientific Methods (IJARESM), Vol.5, Issue.6.

12.Townsend, K. & Mills, F. (2013), Mastering zero: How the pursuit of less waste leads to more creative pattern cutting. International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education. Vol.6, Issue.2, pp. 104-111. DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2013.793746.

13.McQuillan, H. (2019), Hybrid zero-waste design practices. Zero-waste pattern cutting for composite garment weaving and its implications, The Design Journal, 22:sup1, pp. 803819. DOI: 10.1080/14606925.2019.1613098.

14.Carrico, M. (2018), Zero- what?. Design presentation at the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings.3, Cleveland, Ohio. Retrieved from https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_ proceedings/2018/pro/3/ 15.Almond, K. & Power, J. (2016), The Second International Conference for Creative Pattern Cutting Abstracts. University of Huddersfield, Huddersfield, UK. ISBN 9781862181380.

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February 2020

AI & DATA ANALYSIS

IMPLEMENTATION OF SENTIMENTAL ANALYSIS OF TWITTER DATA-SET FOR THE APPAREL INDUSTRY 336 Million tweets per month were UG Student, Department of Computer Science & tweeted on TwitEngineering, SAIT, Bengaluru, Karnataka, India ter platform. In the knowledge reAJAY JOSHI, sources, it is statisAssistant Professor, tically verified that Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, 71% of the interSVVV, Indore, Madhya Pradesh, India net has been used through social meSHYAM BARHANPURKAR, dia by the consumAssistant Professor, ers. Studies show Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, that more than half SVVV, Indore, Madhya Pradesh, India of customers prefer to read the other’s comments Abstract about those products before purchasing. Thus public opinions are Social media especially Twitter is the best source of feedback for providing a large volume of expresbusiness stakeholders about their sion and opinions, where users disproducts and services which encuss various events, services, and able them to redesign the quality products. It can be used for differfactor and disclose the opportunity ent models and interpret reviews of a new business. The social neton newly launched devices. Entrework like Twitter and Facebook propreneurs are in continuous need vided important marketing, selling, of feedback about their services to branding, and promotional chancimprove the quality and quantity. es to the brands. It’s a mathematiHowever, due to the bulk amount cally procedural study of people’s of data, it’s difficult to detect the thoughts and opinions which can consumer’s opinions. This article be positive or negative about any considers the problems with Twitproduct or event through the natter data for sentiment analysis. Adural language processing namely ditionally, it implements the text as ‘sentiment analysis’. Sentiment mining and document-based senanalysis is correlated with text mintiment on the preprocessed Twiting or data mining. The basic purter data through machine learning pose of sentiment analysis is to techniques, Naïve Bayes and lexiguarantee the polarity of natural con dictionary. Sentimental analylanguage by performing supervised sis is an application of textual analand unsupervised classification. Reysis under the Natural-processing cently available sentiment analysis language domain. In this article, we techniques are useful for political have implemented many machine predictions, marketing strategy, elearning techniques to know about commerce, and brand reputation consumer feedback on the apparel management. industry.

Keywords: Apparel-Industry, Da- It will illustrate the relationship beta-preprocessing, Sentimental- tween consumers and the apparel analysis, Support Vector Machine, enterprise. In our work-study, the preprocessing step has been taken Textile-industry. to achieve better analysis results.

1. INTRODUCTION The Bernoulli Naïve Bayes algorithm In 2018, on an average, around has been used with the lexicon dicKANISHK BARHANPURKAR,

February 2020

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tionaries. Moreover, this study is a document-based approach and extracts the polarity from the tweets.

This comparative study will assist the new researcher to analyze social media for sentiment detection.

We are also implementing a textual analysis using the “bag-of-word” approach.

2. ABOUT SENTIMENT ANALYSIS Sentiments are subjective to the point of interest. We are required to formulate what kind of features will decide for the sentiment it embodies. In the programming model, a sentiment we refer to is the class of entities that the person performing emotion analysis wants to find in the tweets. The dimension of the sentiment class plays a crucial factor in deciding the propriety of the model. For example, we can have two-class tweet sentiment classification (positive and negative) or three class tweet sentiment classification (positive, negative and neutral). But in this paper, we have described a system on threeclass sentiment analysis. Sentiment analysis approaches can be broadly categorized into two classes, lexicon-based and machine-learningbased. Lexicon based approach is unsupervised as it proposes to perform analysis using lexicons and a scoring method to evaluate opinions. The basic steps for performing sentiment analysis include data collection, pre-processing of data, feature extraction, selecting baseline features, sentiment detection and performing classification on different data-set either using simple computations or forming representations.

3. HOW SENTIMENTAL ANALYSIS CAN BE USED IN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY? The fashion and apparel supply chain is a complex network of vari-

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AI & DATA ANALYSIS ous actors designated worldwide. It deals with a diversity of raw materials: fiber, yarn, fabric, dyestuff, and other chemicals, and the related processes are broadly classified into four stages: design, fabric production, and apparel production. The designers employed by retailers are responsible for creating collections based on the current market and trend analysis. In most scenarios, retailers do not own any production house and play an important role to bring the products into the market. However, in the past decade, with the advent of e-commerce, the definition of Business-toBusiness (B2B) and Business-to-Customer (B2C) has evolved. Therefore, it has become important for the industry to adapt to this change and create new business strategies. It has also become vital to give a comprehensive demarcation between B2B and B2C, and how machine learning can help in combating problems at these segments. Machine Learning Algorithms can be implemented in sentimental analysis related to customer reviews and can also be used in B2B and B2C involved. By collecting tweets for a particular agenda or product related to the textile industry and apparel industry, the customer review can be analyzed in the form of three categories-positive, negative and neutral. In the brief, this model will be used by business analysts or other officials to analyze the review over the accuracy of machine learning techniques on a particular agenda or product launched by any company.

4. METHODOLOGY FOR IMPLEMENTING PROCESS ON APPAREL INDUSTRY DATA-SET The process of sentimental analysis can be carried from data from the Twitter social media-networking. In this system, we are using twitter data set which undergoes a various type of pre-processing. For data pre-processing many different techniques were used to make data feasible according to the requirements. The complete system divided into three processes as follows-

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Tweet Collection ii. Pre-processing of tweets iii. Twitter Sentimental analysis using Python

4.1 Tweet Collection using TweetPy API Tweet collection involves gathering of appropriate tweets about the particular area of interest. The tweets are collected using Twitter’s streaming API or any other mining tool for the desired time period of analysis. The form of the retrieved text is converted into the required file format. The dataset is collected for the efficiency of the model. The division of dataset into training and testing sets is also a deciding factor. We also used a wordbag that contains different words that are categorized into positive, negative and neutral words. They are arranged in alphabetical order on which basis the decision would be made whether it can be categorized into a negative tweet, positive tweet or neutral tweet.

4.2 Pre-processing of tweets The preprocessing of the data is one of the necessary aspects as it decides the over-all efficiency of the system.

It also involves syntactical correction of the random twitter data provided and generated using the Twitter system. The steps involved should aim for making the data more machines readable in order to reduce ambiguity in feature extraction.

• Elimination of re-tweets- In the twitter system, the main problem is the removal of retweets because of retweets leads to redundancy of data.

• Transfiguring upper case to lower case: In case, we are using case sensitive analysis, we can use a single word for two different meanings. An effective analysis mustn’t provide such misgivings to the model.

• Stop word elimination: Stop words that don’t affect the meaning of the tweet is removed. It uses the WEKAmachine learning package for this purpose, which checks each word from the text against a dictionary.

• Twitter feature deletion: User names and URLs are not important from the perspective of future processing; hence their presence is futile.

All usernames and URLs are converted to generic tags or removed.

4.3 Implementation of Sentimental Analysis for Apparel Industry using Machine Learning Algorithms An algorithm, Naïve Bayes (NB) has been used for the classification of emotions and polarity at each document based on sentiment analysis.

The NB algorithm is a probabilistic model that uses Bayes’ Theorem to solve the classification problems by assuming the data attributes as an independent. NB classifier trained by processed data set which is annotated by three classes: Positive, negative, and neutral tweets. In the Machine Learning domain, natural language processing tools were used to calculate the score for sentiment analysis. The NB polarity classifier is used to get better engagement between the tweet words and lexicon words.

A Support Vector Machine (SVM) is a discriminative classifier formally defined by a separating hyperplane.

In other words, given labeled training data (supervised learning), the algorithm outputs an optimal hyperplane which categorizes new examples. In two dimensional spaces, this hyperplane is a line dividing a plane into two parts wherein each class lay on either side. Linguistic theories generally regard human languages as consisting of two parts: a lexicon, essentially a catalog of a language’s words (it’s words tock); and grammar, a system of rules which allow for the combination of those words into meaningful sentences. The lexicon is also thought to include bound morphemes, which cannot stand alone as words. We have implemented all this system using Python and its libraries such as NumPy, Pandas, Scikit-learn and NLTK library.

5. Data-set extracted from Twitter We have used Twitter’s streaming API for creating a dataset consisting of

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February 2020

AI & DATA ANALYSIS around 6,500 tweets. Then the above described the methodology is implemented to get the required output.

During the first step, that is generating a data-set consisting of tweets are done using Twitter API. Then conversion of data is done by performing some functions using some standard and most recommended libraries.

Some major processes were carried out in this step such as the conversion of the upper case to lower case.

Apart from this, the removal of handles, hashtags, emoticons and repeated characters was done in this step. After cleaning, we go for sentimental analysis using Python and its libraries. We also used bag-of-words for segregating positive, negative and neutral words. Additionally, the data set will be segregated in positive, negative and neutral tweets. The result for every tweet separately can be determined using this methodology.

7. RESULTS Using the Twitter API, tweets have been collected. A random dataset is created for around 8,500 tweets on the current apparel industry. After the data-set has been processed through the methodology implemented we get the result in the form of distinguished tweets as positive tweets,negative tweets and neutral tweets. And every tweet is distinguished as a different type of sentimental tweet as it is a three-class model of textual analysis.

In the form of a result, we obtain all types of tweets whether these tweets are related to any field or any other domain. This method can be implemented in any particular field related to business, any technical sector may be related to the topic. In general,it can be any distinguished as an interdisciplinary domain of computer sci-

February 2020

ence that deals with more complex data-sets as feature selection will become more important.

Table1: Average accuracies of different models S.No. Classifier

Accuracy

1

DAN2

86.06%

2

SVM

85.00%

3

Bayesian Logis- 74.84% tic Regression

4

Naïve Bayes

5

Random Forest 87.50% Classifier

6

Maximum Entropy

66.24%

90.0%

Fig. 2 Accuracy for various machine-learning algorithms

8. CONCLUSIONS & FUTURE SCOPE Twitter sentiment analysis comes under the category of text and opinion mining. It focuses on analyzing the sentiments of the tweets and feeding the data to a model in order to train it and then check its accuracy so that we can use this model for future use according to the results.

In comprises of steps like data collection, text preprocessing, sentiment detection, sentiment classification.

This research topic has evolved during the last decade with models getting an efficiency of nearly 85%-90%.

But it still dearth the aspect of multiplicity in the data. Along with this, it has a lot of application issues with the slang used and the short forms of words. On an increasing number of classes, the overall accuracy for sentimental analysis decreases.

Hence, we suggest using a 3-class model for sentiment analysis for the textile industry to obtain an opinion about different new trends and products that are used in industry and have a very bright scope for development in the future. Also,

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it can be implemented in the following fields are as follows• Business: Corporations can make use of this research for gathering public results related to their product and goods. From the business’s perspective, the investigation of the target audience is imperative for making out the ratings of their products.

Hence Twitter can serve as an upright platform for data collection and analysis to conclude client satisfaction.

• Politics: The majority of tweets on Twitter are related to politics. Due to Twitter’s extensive use, many politicians are also aiming to connect to society through it. People post their agreement or disagreement towards government policies, actions, elections, debates, etc. Hence inspecting data from it can help is in influential public view.

• Sports Events: Sports involve many events, tournaments, meetings and some controversies too. Many people are excited about sports followers and follow their favorite players present on Twitter. These people frequently tweet about different sportsrelated occasions.

9. REFERENCES [1] David Zimbra, M. Ghiassi and Sean Lee, “Brand-Related Twitter Sentiment Analysis using Feature Engineering and the Dynamic Architecture for Artificial Neural Networks”, IEEE 15301605, 2016.

[2] Varsha Sahayak, Vijaya Shete, and Apashabi Pathan, “Sentiment Analysis on Twitter Data”, (IJIRAE) ISSN: 2349-2163, January 2015.

[3] PeimanBarnaghi, John G. Breslin and ParsaGhaffari, “Opinion Mining and Sentiment Polarity on Twitter and Correlation between Events and The sentiment”, 2016 IEEE Second International Conference on Big Data Computing Service and Applications.

[4] Mondher Bouazizi and TomoakiOhtsuki, “Sentiment Analysis: from Binary to MultiClass Classification”, IEEE ICC 2016 SAC SocialNetworking, ISBN 978-1-4799-6664-6.

[5] Nehal Mamgain, Ekta Mehta, Ankush Mittal, and Gaurav Bhatt, “Sentiment Analysis of Top Colleges in India Using Twitter Data”, (IEEE)ISBN -978-1-5090-0082-1, 2016.

[6] Shi Yuan, Junjie Wu, Lihong Wang, and Qing Wang, “A Hybrid Method for Multi-class

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AI & DATA ANALYSIS Sentiment Analysis of Micro-blogs”, ISBN978-1-5090-2842-9, 2016.

[7] Apoorv Agarwal, BoyiXie, Ilia Vovsha, Owen Rambow and Rebecca Passonneau, “Sentiment Analysis of Twitter Data” Proceedings of the Workshop on Language in Social Media (LSM 2011), 2011.

[8] Neethu M S and Rajasree R, “Sentiment Analysis in Twitter using Machine Learning Techniques”, IEEE –31661, 4th ICCCNT 2013.

[9] Aliza Sarlan, ChayanitNadam and ShuibBasri, “Twitter Sentiment Analysis”, 2014 International Conference on Information Technology and multimedia (ICIMU), Putrajaya, Malaysia November 18 – 20, 2014.

[10] V.M. KPeddimeti and P.Chintalapood, “Domain Adaption in sentiment analysis of twitter”, in Analyzing Microtext Workshop, AAAI 2011.

[11] A.Pak and P.Paraobek, “Twitter as a corpus for sentiment analysis and opinion mining”, in Proceedings of LREC, vol. 2010, 2010.

APPAREL UPDATE

SMART CLOTHING: THE FUTURE AYMAN SATOPAY

example, in the summer, we wear light B. Sc (Textile and Apparel Design) weight and SVT college of Home Science light-coloured TVC Intern cloths but during the winter, we wear Food, clothing and shelter are the warm cloths. basic necessity of human being. But, However, due to changing climatic talking about current age; can it not conditions, the weather is becombe food, clothing, shelter and teching increasingly unexpected. So, the nology? Living in this techno-savvy discovery of a smart fabric might be world there is no escape without the helpful in such situations. Did you need for automation to perform fast, know; researchers at the University keep up with the market and add to of Maryland (UMD) have engineered traditional use. When textile meet a new fabric from synthetic yarn with technology, the innovation of smart a carbon nanotube coating that gets clothing is inherited. You may have activated by temperature and huknown this term by other names midity. The fabric releases heat in such as electronic garment, smart warm humid conditions and traps garment, monitor clothing or eheat when conditions are cool and textiles which has been augmented dry. by tools to create gadgets combinDevelopment of man-made textiles ing them with fabrics and wearable have open up a broader door for technology that has high demand in evolving new features and enhance the current era. the overall property of the fabric.A Well, won’t you be interested to know book written by J. McCann and D. the physical functioning of your Bryson focused on fabric technolobody concerning your heart rate, gies and how it has revolutionised body temperature and positioning? the need of manmade textiles. These In sports, it could be very benefiinclude heat absorption and coolcial for the athletes to perform well ing, colour changing characteristics, at the same time maintaining their stain and water resistance,abrasion balance. Did you know;Polar Electro and impact protection, and elecwas the first available wireless heart tro-conductivity. All of these charrate monitoring system, launched in acteristics can play useful roles in 1982. the development of smart clothes andwearable technology.There are We humans wear different clothing three main companies developdepending upon the seasons. For ing commercial conductive switch-

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ing and control systems. Softswitch (Peratech), Fibretronic and Eleksen.

Did you know; Eleksen has released evaluation and development kits for its fabric switches, allowing easier access to the technology.

People of today want to connect to the world with just one touch. Using phone could be their nearest option.

However, during certain situations such as using phone while riding a bike or a cycle could lead to critical situation. Targeting such audience, Google partnered with Levi’s and created smart clothing. A project jacquard is introduced that has thin conductive alloy which could be paired up with synthetic and natural yarn. The aesthetic is the same as those of regular clothing but the feature that sets it apart is that the targeted audience do not have to use their phone to access to the required need. For instance, the wearer can tap on their wrist, and music will start playing. It also allows users to handle calls, navigate, and receive notifications. This prevents them from staring at their phones, which makes their commute a lot safer.

Such high-tech clothing has developed a tremendous speed to cop up with exceeding advancement. This is just the beginning of the adventure and a lot more are yet to come which the human mind has perceived yet.

What are your thoughts on it? Will technology have its limitation till requirement or will it become the next basic necessity?

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February 2020

HOME TEXTILE

ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR HOME TEXTILES M. Sundar Murugesan

isms. The thousands of species of microorM.Tech MBA M.A-Public Admin (PhD) ganisms that exist are found everywhere in Joint Director- Handloom Export Promotion Council the environment and on our bodies. These Cotton textiles have always played organisms impact producers, retaila central role in the evolution of huers, and users of all kinds of products. man culture by being at the forefront The scope of this reaches from whole of both technological and artistic debuildings, building materials, people, velopment. The protective aspects of equipment, processes, production textile have provided the most textile of textiles, storage and transport of ground for innovative developments. textiles, and users of textiles. UnderHygiene has acquired importance in standing microorganisms, which they recent years. Odor has become an are, where they come from, and why important factor. Unpleasant odor they grow on certain materials procan arise from the acquisition of a vides us a basis for controlling them variety of compounds produced in and their negative effects. bodily fluids such as perspiration.

The inherent properties of the texMicroorganism growth is another tile fibers provide room for the factor that has resulted in the develgrowth of microorganisms. Besides, opment of antimicrobial finish. Mithe structure of the substrates and crobial infestation poses danger to the chemical processes may induce both living and non-living matters. the growth of microbes. The humid Microorganisms cause problems with and warm environment still aggratextile raw materials and processing vates the problem. Infestation by chemicals, wet processes in the mills, microbes causes cross-infection by roll or bulk goods in storage, finished pathogens and development odor goods in storage and transport, and where the fabric is worn next to the goods as the consumer uses them. skin. Also, the staining and loss of Obnoxious smell form the inner garthe performance properties of textile ments such as socks, the spread of substrates are the results of microdiseases, staining and degradation bial attack. Basically, to protect the of textiles are some of the detrimenwearer and the textile substrate itself tal effects of bad microbes. The conantimicrobial finish is applied to texsumers are now increasingly aware tile materials. of the hygienic lifestyle and there is a necessity and expectation for a wide Antimicrobial textile products continrange of textile products finished ue to increase in popularity as the demand for fresh smelling, skin-friendwith antimicrobial properties. ly, and high-performance fabrics go This article covers the full range of on. Modern performance fabrics are positive effects that antimicrobials required in many specialist applicabring to the textile industry and protions, sports textile is one example. vides the types and properties of anThese need to exhibit high degrees timicrobials of performance in terms of longevity and durability, and by imparting an1.INTRODUCTION: timicrobial properties to the fabric.

Mold, mildew, fungus, yeast, and These properties can be improved bacteria (microorganisms) are part as well as increasing the comfort and of our everyday lives. There are both hygiene factor making them more good and bad types of microorganpleasant to wear. Odor can be neu-

February 2020

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tralized and skin problems caused by microbial growth reduced thus emphasizing the hygiene nature of the treated product. Apart from apparels, it is now needed that home textiles may also be treated with an anti-microbial finish so that functionally it adds value to home textiles esp. for Export segment & will bring more value from end customers Zydex Industries, One of the leading Indian manufacturer makes a key product “Zycrobial” which is “Oekotex” listed silane-based antimicrobial for giving multi wash retentive antimicrobial and anti-odor finish to textile substrates. Handloom and power loom exporters in application segments like home textiles, carpets, dhurries, etc. are encouraged to use these functional antimicrobial finish with “Zycrobial” and can add value for their products on following lines y Textile substrates in general either made out of cotton or synthetics are prone for microbial growth as they form food for their survival and growth. y Products like home textiles i.e bed cover, pillow cover, pillow, bed sheets, quilts etc. come in intimate contact with human body and are stained with body fluids like sweat, food spills etc. which further encourage microbial growth. y Remnant detergent after washing, storing in dark environments (cup boards), humid climatic conditions, less wash frequency etc. further aggravates microbial growth. y Microbial growth on home textiles as above could result in bad odour, skin allergy to sensitive person, loss in colour of the good & finally reduce the life of the product.

Exporters associated with home textiles business could be able to position their products better with functional anti-microbial finish with

23

HOME TEXTILE “Zycrobial” which could attract customers at points of purchase and experience the functional value. y ZYCROBIAL is a Silane quat product for giving retentive Anti-microbial and antiodor protection to most of the textile substrates. y ZYCROBIAL is water soluble and easy in application either by exhaust/ pad/ spray/ kiss roll method. y ZYCROBIAL provides a durable long lasting anti-odor finish that shields the surface against biodegradation / deterioration by killing the bacteria. y ZYCROBIAL gives multiple wash retentive finish by covalent bonding to hydroxyl group and selfcondensation on the textile surface. y ZYCROBIAL being cationic in nature; is compatible with other cationic and non-ionic softeners. y ZYCROBIAL treated fibers/ yarns/ fabrics are tested & approved for various gram positive and gram negative bacteria for up to 50 washes as per testing procedure AATCC 100, ASTM E 2149 and JIS L 1902. y ZYCROBIAL has also successfully passed AMES test, Buehler test, Intra-cutaneous Sensitization test, Acute Oral Toxicity test and is safe for use. y ZYCROBIAL is listed under bioactive products list of “OEKO-TEX”.

FORM Color

Pale Yellow

Physical Form

Liquid

Solid content

40±2%

Nature

Cationic

PH range

6–7

Solubility

Water Soluble

Carrier Solvent

MEG

TYPES OF MICROBE

1.Forms a polymer network on the textile substrate.

2.Non-leachable, non-consumable & non-flammable.

3.Quaternary ammonium structure provides antimicrobial activity against most of the microbes.

4.Non-toxic & Eco-friendly to nature.

react chemically with the microorganism which kills the micro-organism.

1.Triclosan

surface.

WORKING ZYCROBIAL

MECHANISM

OF

2.PHMB 3.Silver compounds Nonleaching technology: Antimicrobials stay affixed to the textile and at molecular level electrocutes and physically pierces the microorganism (lipoproteins anionic membrane cover).

1. Silane Quat

LEACHING TYPE: CONVENTIONAL ANTI-MICROBIALS Leaching type of antimicrobials leach out of fabric and pollute the environment 1.Triclosan: Triclosan is linked to harmful effects on human health like abnormal endocrine/ thyroid hormone secretion, weakening of the immune system, etc.

Home textiles include Bed Linen: Bed Sheets, Blankets, Duvets, Quilts, Pillow Stuffing Fibres, Pillow Covers, Mattress foam & Mattress covers. Bath Linen: Bath Towels, Bath Suit & Hand Napkins, Table Linen: Table cloth, Hand napkins, Aprons, Carpets, Curtains & Blinds are all functionally can be treated with anti-microbial finish Upholsteries

2.PHMB: It has been classified as a category 2 carcinogenic (cancercausing) agent by the European Union and is banned since January 2015.

NEED FOR ANTIMICROBIAL MATTRESS SOLUTION

3.Silver compounds: This antimicrobial is being phased out from the market due to ecological reasons.

ANTI-MICROBIAL TECHNOLOGIES

NON-LEACHING ANTI-MICROBIAL

Leaching Technology: This antimicrobials move out of the fabric and

SILANE QUAT (Zycrobial)

24

5.Ruptures the cell membrane of the microbes when it comes in contact with the treated

BED LINEN Reasons for Microbial Attack: SHED-

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February 2020

HOME TEXTILE DING OF below items on the Bed Linen 1.DEAD SKIN 2.FOOD PARTICLES 3.SALIVA

1. Bad Odour 2 .Skin Infections 3. Textile Staining 4. Textile deterioration

4.SECRETION OF SWEAT

EFFECTS OF MICROBIAL GROWTH: 1. SKIN INFECTION/RASHES 2. BAD ODOUR 3.TEXTILE STAINING 4.TEXTILE DISCOLORATION 5.TEXTILE DETERIORATION

REQUIREMENT OF ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR TABLE LINEN Table cloth often gets stained by food particles which encourages the growth of microbes.

REQUIREMENT OF ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR BATH LINEN REQUIREMENT OF ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR BED LINEN Sometimes even after washing, the residual detergents reside in the fabric which shapes up as food material for the micro-organisms and leads to their growth.

1.Storage of bed linen in humid and dark conditions further encourages the growth of microbes.

2.Infrequent washing also leads up to the growth of micro-organisms on this textile substrate which perhaps can cause skin allergies.

3.Bad odor on bed linen is a problem during monsoon and humid climatic conditions.

Bathrobes and Towels, in particular, tend to get attacked by bacteria being in direct contact with the skin.

1. When too much detergent is used during laundry it becomes difficult to rinse towels properly and hence they are likely to end up with the remnants of detergent. When not rinsed well, it leaves traces of detergent and dirt in the fabric. This encourages bacteria that causes odor.

2. Towels develop a musty smell when they are left in the washer after the cycle is complete. This also increases the likelihood of mildew transfer onto the towels.

2. Aprons worn during cooking get stained by food and other liquids which encourages the growth of microbes if they are not washed for a longer time.

Reasons for a microbial attack: 1. Deposition of food particles & dirt for a longer time.

Effects of microbial growth: 1. Textile staining & bad odor 2. Textile deterioration

TABLE LINEN AND CARPETS Reasons for a microbial attack:

BATH LINEN

1. Deposition of food particles &

Reasons for Microbial Attack:

2. Dirt for a longer time.

1. Damp towels

Effects of microbial growth:

2. Disposition of dead skin cells

1.Textile staining & Textile deterioration

3. Residual detergent

1. Hand napkins remain damp due to its frequent use in the kitchen. Also, food particles get adhered to it and infrequent washing results in microbial growth after some time.

bad

odor

Effect s of microbial growth:

February 2020

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25

HOME TEXTILE CARPETS

REQUIREMENT OF ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR CURTAINS AND BLINDS • Due to open door and windows, the curtains absorb moisture and attract dirt from outside which could be the reason for the growth of microbes.

• Infrequent washing also leads to the growth of micro-organisms on these textile substrate which perhaps can cause discoloration of curtains

2. In the case of marine upholstery, the humid climatic conditions agglomerate the generation of bacteria and also degrades the substrate within a short period.

UPHOLSTERY

Application Techniques:

Reasons for Microbial Attack:

The key advantages of using Zycrobial are:

1. Accumulation of dirt & soil from the surrounding environment.

REQUIREMENT OF ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR CARPET

EFFECTS OF MICROBIAL GROWTH:

Carpets are prone to the accumulation of dirt and dust particles as they are used for covering a floor. Carpets are generally heavy and difficult to handle and therefore they cannot be washed regularly which readily leads to the germination of microbes.

2.Textile Staining

1.Textile deterioration

1. Room temperature reactivity and curing.

2. Fast and easy application.

3. Gives retentive antimicrobial & anti-odor finish.

3.Stinky Hotels

4. Protects against microbial deterioration & discoloration.

5. Increase the life of textile materials.

6. Effective on both natural and synthetic textiles.

CURTAINS AND BLINDS Reasons for Microbial Attack:

7. It helps to keep the army personal healthy and fully functional on duty.

1. Accumulation of dirt & soil from the surrounding environment.

ANTIMICROBIAL TEST METHODS

EFFECTS OF MICROBIAL GROWTH:

1.Bromo Phenol Blue Stain Test (Inhouse indicative test to determine whether Zycrobial is present on substrate or not)

1. Textile deterioration

• one drop of BPB solution on treated as well as untreated substrate & rinse thoroughly with water. Compare the remaining blue stain on a treated substrate with the stain on the untreated substrate (yellow/orange). If the stain is blue then Zycrobial is present on the substrate.

2. Textile Staining

REQUIREMENT OF ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH FOR UPHOLSTRIES The seat covers and floor interlining in automobiles are the areas where dust accumulates the most and these substrates cannot be washed frequently and hence lead to the growth in bacteria after some time.

1.The chances of cross-contamina-

26

tion are highest at the places where these substrates come in direct contact with the general public like in terms of seats of buses, cars, airplanes, theatres, etc. which can cause infection if the bacterial growth is not prohibited.

1. AATCC 147: Antimicrobial activity assessment of textile materials (Parallel streak method) Qualitative test method for leaching type of antimicrobials; hence not suitable test method for Zycrobial as it is nonleaching type of antimicrobial product. y AATCC 100 (Quantitative test

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February 2020

HOME TEXTILE STAGE

APPLICATION TECHNIQUE

DOSAGE

EFFICIENCY

TREATED

FIBRE

EXHAUST

YARN

EXHAUST

FABRIC

EXHAUST / PAD

GARMENT

EXHAUST

HOUSEHOLD

EXHAUST

RECOMMENDED TESTING METHOD

O.W.M

>99%efficiency on both bacteria like S.aureus (+ve) as well as E.coli (-ve) 3%

TREATED AND WASH >50% efficiency on both bacteria like S.aureus (+ve) as well as E.coli (-ve) after 30 home laundry

ASTM E21492013a

>50% efficiency on both bacteria like S.aureus (+ve) as well as E.coli (-ve) after 50 home laundry

AATCC 1002004/2012

method ) y ASTM E 2149 (Dynamic shake flask) y JISL 1902 (Absorption method)

TOXICOLOGY CASE STUDY TESTED BY: Haffkine Institute For

Training, Research & Testing, Mumbai & National Toxicological Lab Pune.

CONCLUSION Textile fabric with anti-odour/antimicrobial properties is one of the

No

Text

Results

1

Primary Skin Irritation Study Od Zycrobial in Rabbits

Mild Skin Irritation as PSI Value is 0.33 (PSI Range 0 for No Irritation) (PSI Range – 0-2 for Mild Irritation).

2

Mucous MembraneIrritation Study of Zycrobial in Rabbits

Mild Skin Irritation as MMI Value is – 0.47 (MMI Range 0 for No Irritation) (MMI Range- 0-2 for Mild Irritation).

3

Acute Oral Toxicity of Zycrobial in Mice

The Oral LD50 Value is 12600 mg/kg with fiducial limit between 8883 mg/kg & 17871 mg/kg at 95% Confidence Level.

4

Intra Cutaneous Sensitization Text of ‘’Zycrobial treated fabric’’ in Guinea Pigs

The Sample of Zycrobial treated fabric did not produce any sensitization.

Skin Sensitization Potential of ‘Zycrobial’ in guinea pics by closed-patched test (Buehler text)

Zycrobial Cost ‘No’ Positive Skin sensitization response.

So it can be concluded that Zycrobial is safe for use.

6

Mutagenicity stufy of Zycrobial by names/salmonella typhimurium reverse mutation assay

Zycrobial is not-mutagenic is safe for use.

7

Oeko-tex listing

After two years of extensive evaluation oeko-tex, Switzerland has listed ‘zycrobial’ as safe as antimicrobial recommended for textile treatment.

5

fastest-growing segments of the performance in a textile market— reflecting the desire of consumers for hygiene, freshness and a general sense of well-being.

Also the greater use of synthetic fibers and blends in textile items which tend to cause greater ‘perspiration wetness’ because of poor moisture transport properties as compared to natural fibres.

The microbial attack on textile fabric leads to quality losses due to changes of colour and appearance or to reduction in strength and can result in unpleasant odour formation.

Moreover, the current issues of skin disorders/rashes/infections due to lack of home textiles hygiene has led to huge opportunities for anti-microbial and anti-odour finishing agents such as ZYCROBIAL

DISCLAIMER Zycrobial antimicrobial efficacy is assured under standard suggested Application dosage, process conditions and test methodology. It is suggested that before commercializing the product test the treated product for efficacy against the chosen method of testing at a standard accredited microbiological textile testing lab. HEPC will not be responsible for any deviation in test results due to inappropriate dosage, incorrect treatment method and incorrect test methodology practice.

NEWS

INDIA GDP GREW 4.7 PER CENT IN Q3.

There is an uptick despite international headwinds, says Economic Affairs Secretary Atanu Chakraborty.

The Indian economy grew 4.7 per cent in the third quarter ended December 31, 2019, the National Statistics Office said on Friday.

The first quarter GDP growth for this fiscal has been revised upwards to

February 2020

5.6 per cent, from the 5.1 per cent estimated earlier. The second quarter GDP growth for the current fiscal has also been revised upwards to 5.1 per cent from 4.5 per cent announced earlier.

Speaking to reporters, Economic Affairs Secretary Atanu Chakraborty said that the uptick in agriculture and

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services along with a strong showing in core industries in December and January continued to drive growth.

“The economy has bottomed out.

There is an uptick despite international headwinds,” he said. Asked about the impact of coronavirus on Indian economy, Chakraborty said that it was an “unfolding story”.

27

SPORTS TEXTILES

FACTORS AFFECTING THE AIR PERMEABILITY OF SPORTS FABRICS SHASHI KUMAR,

popularity and as a career National textile Corporation Ltd option. From Tendulkar, DR.D. V. RAISINGHANI Paes, BhuTextile Manufactures Dept pathi, Anand, Karthikeyan VeermataJijabai Technological Institute Mumbai- 400019. to Sania Mirza leads the present sports generation of India. CrickAbstracts: et, Hockey, Football, Boxing, Tennis, Today sports in India have gained Weightlifting, Kabaddi, and Archery significant importance as a career are the sports of India that have option as well as leisure and fitness been deep-seated into an Indian activity. Participation in various na- psyche, whether of a sportsperson tional and international games such or a sports lover. Not only physical as Olympics, Commonwealth Games, strength, power, and satisfaction but Asian Games, and Wimbledon, etc. also a strong alternative of recreais being encouraged by the govern- tion; sports in India have covered a ment as well as work organizations. long way towards the road of success The performance of a participant in and have made themselves a hallany sport is dependent not only on mark in the world of sports. Due to inhis physical strength and training but creasing interest and participation in also on the quality of the sports goods sports and leisure activities, the conand comfort provided by sports fab- sumption of sports goods and equipric. A failure of sports goods may lead ment and attendant consumption of to a major injury to the sportsman textiles in such goods and equipment hence the designing of present-day has shown a steady increase. With sports products requires high preci- an increase in the number of parsion, good comfort, and safety fea- ticipation in sports, the number of tures. The present paper reviews the injuries and fractures also increases. influence of design characteristics of Although many injuries seem unasports fabric especially canopy fabric voidable many of them can be avoidon air permeability, one of the major ed by the introduction of good qualfactors affecting the performance of ity along with standard materials and sports fabric. Air permeability plays a improvement in the existing sports significant role in sports-wear as well protective wear and equipment. Toas canopy fabric (i.e. parachute, sails day’s sports demand high-perforcloth, tent fabric, etc.). The air perme- mance equipment and apparel. Toability of fabric is influenced by the day, technical textile products can be structural properties of fiber, yarn, manufactured tougher than wood, fabric and finishing treatments. Vari- stronger than steel, breathe like skin, ous studies have been carried out by waterproof like rubber, lighter like a several researchers to understand feather and at the same time they the influence of different parameters can be eco-friendly as well as highly economical. The introduction of lighton air permeability. weight and safety features in sports Keywords: Air-permeability, Comtextile has contributed significantly to fort, Sports fabric, Parachute their substitution for other materials.

Introduction: Today sports in India One of the main functions of clothing have achieved a peak in terms of is to keep the human body comfort-

28

able. All types of clothing like sports, defense or protective apparel require comfort property. The comfort achieved from sportswear depends on the complex interaction between a range of physiological, psychological and physical factors. The physical aspect of comfort includes watervapor rĂŠsistance, air permeability, moisture-holding ability, wind resistance, etc. The present paper focuses on air transport properties and various factors affecting it for sportswear fabrics.

Fig1. The requirement of Air Permeability in different sports applications.

Air Permeability is one of the important properties that have a significant influence on the utilization of fabric for some technical and clothing applications. Air permeability plays a very vital role in the properties of fabric for various sports applications like fabric for a parachute, sailcloth, tent cloth, filter fabrics, underwear products, socks, and other garments.

It indicates the breathability of clothing fabrics. Air permeability also affects the thermal properties of textile materials that influence the thermal comfort of the human body for proper body temperature[1]. Passage of air is important for several fabric end-uses such as raincoats materials, shirting, down-proof fabrics, and airbags.

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February 2020

SPORTS TEXTILES Air permeability is defined as the rate of airflow passing perpendicularly through a known area under a prescribed air pressure differential between the two surfaces of material as per the Indian Standard test method for air permeability of textile fabric[2] Or it is defined as the volume of air in milliliters which is passed in one second through 100 mm2 of fabric at a pressure difference of 10 mm head of water[3] Or it is defined as the volume of air in liters which is passed in one minute through 100 cm2(10cm*10cm) of the fabric at a pressure difference of 10-mm head of water [BS EN ISO 9237 1995].

The air permeability of fabric at a static pressure differential between two surfaces of fabric is generally expressed in SI units as cm3/s/cm2 and in inch-pound units or ft3/min./ft2 calculated at operating conditions [2].

Methods used for determining the air permeability: Three principles can be used to measure the ability of the fabric to allow the air passage through it [5].

1.Measurement of time required to pass the given volume of air through a given area of fabric.

2.Measurement of pressure differential required for air to pass at a given constant volume rate through a given fabric area.

3.Measurement of volume rate of flow of air through a given fabric area under a given pressure differential.

Most of the instruments are working on this principle. (ASTM D737-96).

size and shape of pores and several inner threads channels which are dependent on the structural properties of the fabric. Fig. 2 shows the structure of a simple plain-woven fabric with four different airflow regions[1].

1.The Flow rate between warp and weft yarn(Q1) 2.The flow rate through the interaction point of warp &weft yarn(Q2) 3.The flow rate through the fibers of warp yarn(Q3) 4.The flow rate through the fibers of weft yarn(Q4) It has been found experimentally that permeability of inter-yarn pores (Q1) dominates the total air permeability of the fabric but the air passing

February 2020

Table 1: Different factors affecting Air permeability.

Yarn Properties

Fabric properties

Other factors

Yarn Type i.e. Monofilament, multifilament or Spun

Weave

Area of test sample

Denier

EPI & PPI

Pressure head on testing machine

Yarn Twist

Tension and crimp in yarn

Finishing and laundering

through the interstices of the fibers or filaments (Q2) are equally important. So taking into consideration all these regions the air permeability depends on the structure of the fabric, the main structural parameters being fabric densities, yarn denier, weave [4].

Factor affecting air permeability: The permeability of fabric may be considered mainly in terms of three factors (a) the cross-section area of each void (b) thickness of a fabric or the depth of each void (c) numbers of voids per unit area [6].

Fig 2: Flow region in woven fabric.

The air permeability depends on the

So we can state that fabric air permeability depends on the porosity of the textile materials whereas the porosity of fabric is a function of raw material, yarn type, fabric construction, working condition of a loom like speed, and other parameters [7]. However, it is known that fabric porosity and permeability are not uniform throughout the width of the loom from the nozzle to the feeler side in case of fabric woven on air jet loom. It is different in the center part of fabric compared to both the selvage sides and due to this reason, the user cannot utilize the full width of the fabric to their end product[8].

Fig 3: Factors affecting the air permeability

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Yarn Type: Monofilament yarn does not allow the air to pass through it.

The air can pass through the pores of the fabric created through the interlacement of warp and weft yarn during weaving. Whereas in multifilament yarn several filaments are there in a single yarn. So the presence of gaps in between the filaments or within the yarn allows the air to pass through it. This directly affects the total air permeability of the fabric. In the ribbon form of twist-less or zerotwist multifilament yarn, these gaps can be seen easily with the help of a microscope. The effect of several filaments in a yarn structure on the air permeability needs to be studied.

Yarn Twist: Twist plays an important role in the air permeability of a woven fabric. As the level of twist increases, the regularity and circularity of yarn increases which tends to reduce the yarn diameter as well as the cover factor of fabric. The decrease in the diameter of yarn due to the increase in twist results in an increase in the

29

SPORTS TEXTILES air permeability of fabric [9]. An increase in twist level of yarn beyond a limit results in a more circular and high-density yarn structure. These types of highly packed tight yarn reduce the air permeability of the fabric in a tightly woven structure after weaving[10].

Denier: Coarser yarn produces thicker as well as higher GSM fabric. The weight of fabric (GSM) also increases with more threads in a single unit area. If the GSM of fabric is kept constant and the yarn diameter and yarn density or both parameters reduced, the air permeability gets reduced because of a decrease in pores size of the fabric that tends to reduce the air permeability [9].

Weave: The air permeability cannot be given for a particular type of fabric structure or weave with great accuracy as a small change in the parameter of yarn and construction results in a considerable change in the permeability of the fabric. However, plain weave always exhibits high air permeability. Due to more interlacement points in plain fabric, the total size of voids increases that leads to an increase in the permeability of the material.

Thread Density: More the number of ends and picks per cm of the fabric, tighter will be the fabric structure that leads to a reduced size of pores in the woven fabric. The experiments done

by Clayton[6] show the effect of warp crimp and GSM of the fabric with a change in picks per inch keeping all other parameters (like EPI, warp/weft count, weft crimp) constant on-air permeability of the fabric.

Tension and crimp in the yarn: It is important to measure and minimize the yarn tension variation and keep it as low as possible for textile processes. During the process of weaving, low warp tension results in an unclear shed formation for picking while high tension in the warp thread cause yarn breaks. So it is important to optimize the warp and weft tension for improvement in the efficiency of the machine as well as the fabric

30

qualities. Warp tension and its variation depending upon yarn stress, fabric formation, warping speed and tension variability, and machine types[7] [11].

It is known from the previous researches that tension in the warp threads varies across the fabric width and it is higher in the central zone than in edges. These changes in tension cause the crimp variation in the threads over the whole warp sheet in grey fabric[12]. The change in the crimp % changes the air permeability of the fabric along the width of the fabric. As discussed there is a linear relationship between total pore size and the air permeability of the fabric.

The change in air permeability may be due to the distortion in the pores/ voids or the variability in the pore size.

Another reason for the effect on air permeability is the filling tension of the weft yarn. For grey fabric, it is found that higher average filling tension produces a larger opening in the fabric that gives better penetration of air through the fabric increasing air permeability[13].

Pressure head-on testing instrument: The pressure head-on testing instrument and air permeability have a linear relationship. As we increase the pressure the air permeability of the fabric increases for all other parameters kept constant. Hence, the air permeability of the fabric has to be determined at different pressure levels depending on the type and end-use of the fabric.

Laundering and Finishing: In all wet processing the shrinkage of fabric takes place in both warp and weft direction due to relaxation of filament in the yarn as well as in the fabric.

The shrinkage results in a change in the structure of pores/voids as well as in the fabric in both the directions. The void’s shape in the grey fabric is generally rectangular and larger than the finished fabric. The warp ends are closely packed due to circular cross-section whereas in finished fabric the shape of yarn is

much flattened so the void space is smaller that causes a change in the dimension of the voids in the fabric.

So a reduction in the void dimension is the main reason for the reduction in air permeability of the fabric.

Calendaring: According to studies it has been found that this process has a high influence on reduction in the porosity as well as air permeability of the fabric. The reason for the change in the structure of pores may be flattening of the vertical diameter of low twisted yarn to a great extent and an increase in the horizontal diameter of the interlacing yarn. The change in porosity depends on calendar pressure. The air permeability can reduce up to 35-70%. So calendaring is found to be a very effective tool to reduce air permeability but unfortunately, the strength of the fabric harms it.

It has been studied by Bardhan in 1979 in detail for nylon parachute fabric[14].

Conclusion: From the above discussion, it is clear that air permeability and pore size are strongly related to each other.

If the fabric has very high porosity it can be assumed that it will be permeable. The air permeability of the fabric is not only influenced by the airflow rate between yarns but also between fibers. Warp and weft filling tension also influence the air permeability. The more the tension higher will be the air permeability due to better penetration of air through the larger openings produced by yarn. So it is important to maintain the tension variation as low as possible. All the wet processes result in variation in the air permeability of the fabric.

Calendaring is the most common process that reduces the variation of air permeability of the fabric after finishing but this process also leads to reduced strength of the fabric.

References: 1.Ogulata R.T, Serin(Mavruz), Total porosity, theoretical analysis and prediction of air permeability of woven fabrics, The Journal of the Textile

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February 2020

SPORTS TEXTILES Institute, June (2012); Vol. 103, No. 6, 654–661.

2. Indian standard test method for AP of textile fabric.

3. Saville B.P, Physical testing of textiles, Woodhead Publishing Limited.

4. Fatahi I, Yazdi AA., Predicting Air Permeability Property Values from the Parameters of Weave Structure, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe( 2012), 20, 3(92): 78-81.

5.Goglia M. J, the Air permeability of parachute cloth, WADC Technical Report, Nov. (1952)283.

6. Clayton, F. H. “The Measurement of AP of the fabric”, The Journal of the Textile Institute, (1935), 26, T171.

7. Kotb N., Ei-Geiheini A., Investigat-

ing the influence of the widthwise warp-end tension variation on fabric performance properties, Autex (2009) world textile conference.

8. Malaysia R, Rukuizieene Z, Investigation of correlation of fabric inequality in width with fabric shrinkage, Fibre and Textile in Eastern Europe July/Sept. (2003), vol.11, No. 3(42).

9. M.K. Bardhan, the Air permeability of nylon parachute canopy fabric, Man-Made Textile In India, August, (1981).

10. HU Jinlian, Fabric testing, Wood head Publishing Limited, (2008).

11. Adanur, S., Gowayed, Y., Thomas, H., Ghosh, T., Esad, M., and Qi, J., Online measurement of fabric mechanical properties for process control,

Natural Textile Center annual report, final report, November(1999), I96A09, p.p.1-9.

12. Ozkan G., Eren R., “Warp Tension Distribution Over The Warp Width and Its Effect on Crimp Distribution in Woven Fabrics”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, (2010),22(4), pp:272-284.

13. Adanur, S, and Qi, J., Property Analysis of Denim Fabrics Made on Air-jet Weaving Machine. Part II: Experimental System and Tension Measurements, Textile Research.

Journal (2008); 78, 10.

14. M.K.Bardhan, Effect of weaving and processing on the fundamental properties of parachute fabric, ManMade Textile in India, May, (1979).

NEWS CCI LAUNCHES INDIAN COTTON BRAND “HIRA” – SIMA HAILS India became the largest producer of cotton in the year 2014-15 and continue to be the leader in cotton production in the world by accounting 37% area under cotton. India produces 330 to 400 lakh bales and consumes 300 to 320 lakh bales of cotton per year thus becoming a net exporter of cotton. Indian cotton has been the engine of growth for the predominantly cotton based Indian textile industry and currently textile exports account 80% of the textiles exports.

The Technology Mission on Cotton and BT cotton technology helped the country to become the world leader in cotton textile exports. However, Indian cotton quality has been far below the standard especially in terms of trash content, contamination, etc., that stalled the value addition and also affected the revenue of the cotton farmers.

Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), established in the year 1974, started its

February 2020

Minimum Support Price operation during the year 1985 and is greatly helping the cotton farmers and the cotton textile industry that has been functioning under the Ministry of Textiles. The industry has been pleading the Ministry of Textiles to standardize and brand Indian cotton.

In a Press Release issued here today, Mr.Ashwin Chadran, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association has stated that CCI started enforcing the fair average quality norms from the cotton season 2018-19 and was successful in its venture. He has stated that at a function held at Mumbai today, the CCI has launched its first Indian brand “HIRA” and is planning to market the same shortly. Mr.Ashwin has appreciated the Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani and Chairman-cum-Managing Director of CCI, Dr P Alli Rani for the historical initiative taken by CCI. He has stated that the Ministry is also

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planning to launch a scheme “Nirmal Cotton Mission” with CCI as a nodal agent that would go a long way to make Indian cotton to become the best quality cotton in the world and would enable the Indian cotton textiles & clothing manufacturers to produce all high value added items using home grown cotton SIMA Chairman has appealed to the Hon’ble Prime Minister to launch the Technology Mission on Cotton in a revised format to increase the productivity parallalley which is only around 460 to 500 kgs per hectare as against 1500 to 2200 kgs per hectare achieved by over 20 countries in the world. He has said that adopting global best practices and acquiring appropriate technology would be essential to achieve the mission of doubling the farmers’ income and make India as the true global clothier of cotton textiles.

31

YARN FOCUS REGRESSION MODEL DEVELOPMENT FOR SHOWING RELATION BETWEEN MECHANICAL YARN STRETCH (%) IN SIZING AND WARP YARN BREAKAGE (CMPX) IN LOOMS USING ANOVA MODEL NEWAY SEBOKA Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute MENTORED BY TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS Abstract Mechanical yarn stretch (%) in sizing process is amongst one of the process control parameters affecting warp yarn breakages in looms. For assessing the level of significance of the treatment factor on the response, ANOVA analysis including analysis of sum of squares, degree of freedoms and mean square analysis is done. Experimentation is done in Bahir Dar Textile Sh. Company weaving mill using cotton yarn of 20s for making of 20s x 20s / 60 x 60 fabric particulars or bed sheet article. The 4 different weavers’ beams prepared using the stated yarns are prepared in 4 different mechanical yarn stretch percentages but having same size pick-up, concentration and moisture content percentages and made to be run on the loom at the same speed of 500RPM. A single factor experiment with 4 levels of the factor and 3 replicates, i.e 12 runs has been made. Using significance level of α = 0.05, the experimentation shows mechanical yarn stretch % in sizing process significantly affects the warp yarn breakages (warp cmpx) in looms, so process optimization and linear regression model development has been conducted.

Thus, the two unknown coefficients βo& β1 have been calculated to be -1.6092 & 4.21689, and the linear regression model is computed as; y = -1.6092+4.2169X1 Key words: Mechanical yarn stretch%, Warp yarn cmpx, Cotton yarn of 20s, ANOVA analysis, linear regression model.

Introduction The most critical issue in sizing is to control the yarn stretch. As yarns pass through the long path from creel to head stock, the tension applied in the process will tend to elongate it. If this elongation is not controlled, the deformation so introduced will be permanently set in the yarn.

The control of yarn elongation (stretch) between the squeezing rolls of the size box and the first drying cylinder is critical, since the wet yarns under high heat, undergo stretching even at low tensions. This must be controlled by proper selection of the drive system, such as digital or variable speed differential transmission between the size box and the drying unit. [2]

face speeds of all the drying cylinders should be controlled and if they are uniform, no stretch will develop in the drying zone.

A uniform stretch from section beam to section beam throughout the warp must be maintained.

For sizing machines, which the stretch control % is clearly shown on the machine’s control panel, we can directly take the figure as mechanical yarn stretch %. But suppose the machine is old model and no control panel is there, we have to calculate the mechanical yarn stretch % in sizing as per the SOP (standard operating procedure) stated below: SOP to check the stretch % Purpose: to reduce elongation loss % Back meter counter must be fixed at back of the sow box, At starting of the beam set the front machine counter at ‘0’ At the same time set the back meter counter also at ‘0’ At the time of completion of the beam note & record the reading of the front machine counter, At the same time note & record the reading of the back meter counters, The stretch % to be calculated as follows: Stretch %=Front counter reading-back counter reading/ back counter reading Materials and methods Materials The experiment is conducted in Bahir Dar textile factory with the use of cotton yarn having the following details stated in table 1: [3] Table 1 Sample cotton yarn details S.

Moisture Content (%)

Stretch (%)

pickup %

R.F % (Concentration)

SizeYarn type

Count

Fabric particulars bed sheet product

no

1

Cotton

20s

20s x 20s / 60 x 60

6%

5

7

1.34

2

Cotton

20s

20s x 20s / 60 x 60,

6%

5

7

1.62

3

Cotton

20s

20s x 20s / 60 x 60,

6%

5

7

5

4

Cotton

20s

20s x 20s / 60 x 60,

6%

5

7

1

The tension develops when the yarn is passed through the drying cylinders for ensuring proper drying. The sur-

32

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February 2020

YARN FOCUS As it is stated in the above table, throughout the experiment cotton yarn of 20s has been used with the same size concentration (%age), moisture content (%age) and size pick-up (%age). Keeping the stated parameters the same, mechanical yarn stretch (%) has been varied for experimentation. So in this research, the effect of stretch on warp yarn breakage (warp cmpx) in picanol air-jet looms of same weaver group has been assigned. Here, all the 4 weavers’ beams have been loaded on 4 Picanol air-jet looms operated by same weaver-group and all the looms were running at 500 RPM. [3] Results and discussions

Analysis of degree of freedom (DF)

A single factor experiment with a= 4 levels of the factor and n = 3 replicates, i.e 12 runs of experimentation are conducted and in table 2 results are shown:

= 187.85…... (4)

Table 2 Data showing observations vs. sources of variations

Table 3 Analysis of degree of freedom (DF) DF Between treatments

a-1, 4-1=3

Error (within treatments)

N-a, 12-4=8

Total

N-1, 12-1=11

Analysis of mean squares

MSTreatments= SSTreatments/a-1] MSError= SSError/N-a

= 563.54/3

= 190.6/8 = 23.825 ….. (5)

Fo= MSTreatments/MSError

= 187.85/23.825 = 7.8845 … (6)

Suppose we select α = 0.05, the probability of reaching the correct decision on any single comparison is 0.95.

Stretch (%)

ObservaTotal, tions (Warp yi.. cmpx)

Average, yi..

1

2.3

4.0

3.1

9.4

3.13

1.34

3.2

3.5

2.4

9.1

3.03

1.62

5.6

7.2

4.5

17.3

5.77

5

25.1

25.2

8.5

58.8

19.6

94.6

7.8825

Total, yi..

= 94.6

= 9.4+9.1+17.3+58.8

Average, yi.. = (3.13+3.03+5.77+19.6)/4 = 7.8825 Analysis of sum of squares = 754.14……..…... (1) SSTreatments= 1/3 [9.42+……….+58.82]-94.62/12 SSError= SST - SSTreatments…………..………..…. (3) = 754.14-563.54 = 190.6 Mean square

Mechanical yarn stretch %

563.54

3

187.85

Error

190.6

8

Total

754.14

11

Computation of R2R2 R2

23.825

F0

Pvalue

7.8845 <0.01

= SSTreatments/SST…………. (7)

= SSTreatments/SST…………. (7) =563.54/754.14 =0.747, 74.7%

February 2020

P0.01,3,8= 7.59, because Fo>7.59, we can conclude that an upper bound for the P-value is 0.01; that is P<0.01.

Table 4 ANOVA for warp yarn breakage (warp cmpx) experiment

= 563.54……..…… (2)

Degrees of freedom

Fo= 7.8845>4.07, so we reject Ho (null hypothesis), which tells: µ1=µ2=….µa and accept H1, which tells µi≠µj for at least one pair and conclude that the treatment means differ; that is mechanical yarn stretch % in sizing process significantly affects the warp yarn breakages (warp cmpx) in looms. Since it is known that the process parameter significantly affects the warp cmpx, process optimization and regression model development is needed.

Now we compute the p-distribution:

SST = 2.32+4.02+………..+8.52 - 94.62/12

Source of Sum of variation squares

Now we compare Fo with the distribution table at α = 0.05 significance level. We get F0.05,3,8= 4.07.

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Thus, in this experiment, the factor ‘mechanical yarn stretch’ explains about 74.7 percent of the variability in warp yarn breakage (warp cmpx).

Process optimization and linear regression model development [1] y

= βo+β1X1+€…………..… (8)

β

= (X’X)-1X’y…………...… (9)

So from the data achieved based on the experimentation done, we have: X’X=1*1+1*1+1*1+1*1=4, 1*1+1*1.34+1*1.62+1*5=8.96 X=

1 1 1 1

1 1.34 1.62 5

y=

3.13 3.03 5.77 19.6

X'= 1 1

1 1 1 1.34 1.62 5

33

YARN FOCUS = 1*1+1.342+1.622+52= 30.42

X’X =

4 8.96 8.96 30.42

X’y= 31.53 114.54

y

= βo+β1X1+€…………………… (8)

y

= -1.6092+4.2169X1

Where y, is warp yarn breakage (warp cmpx), X1, is mechanical yarn stretch (%) in sizing,

X’y= 1*3.13+1*3.03+1*5.77+1*19.6= 31.53

Conclusion

=1*3.13+1.34*3.03+1.62*5.77+5*19.6= 114.54

The experiment is done in Bahir Dar textile sh. Company weaving mill with the use of cotton yarn of 20s with same size pick-up, concentration and moisture content percentages has been used for assessing the effects of variation of mechanical yarn stretch percentage on warp yarn breakages (warp cmpx) in Picanol air-jet looms of same weaver group running at the speed of 500 RPM.

β(X’X) X’y……….... (10) -1

(X'X)-1= 1/ [(4*30.42) (8.96)2] * 30.42 -8.96

-8.96 4

=

0.73

-0.215

-0.215

0.096

Now we can compute β= (X’X)-1X’y as: βo= (0.73*31.53) + (-0.215*114.54)

= -1.6092

β1= (-0.215*31.53) + (0.096*114.54)

= 4.21689

So the linear regression model and the scatter diagram showing the relationship between mechanical yarn stretch (%) in sizing and warp yarn breakage (warp cmpx) in looms can be computed and shown in fig.1 as:

Using a single factor experiment of 4 levels of the factor and 3 replicates, i.e 12 replicates has been made for computing ANOVA analysis which has been discussed in table 4 and showing: analysis of sum of squares, degree of freedoms and mean squares. With the use of 0.05 significance level (α=0.05), it is proved that mechanical yarn stretch (%) significantly affects the warp yarn breakage (cmpx). Since this is the case, process optimization and linear regression model development has been conducted. For drawing the linear regression model, the two unknown coefficients βo& β1 have been calculated to be -1.6092 & 4.21689, and the linear regression model is computed as; y = -1.6092+4.2169X1. The scatter diagram and linear regression model development has been shown in fig. 1.

Computation of R2 has been done to find 0.747, showing the factor ‘mechanical yarn stretch’ explains about 74.7 percent of the variability in warp yarn breakage (warp cmpx).

References [1] Douglas C. Montgomery, ‘Design and analysis of experiments’ Eighth edition, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.2012, [2] K.L. Gandhi, ‘Woven textiles principles, developments and applications,’ Wood head publishing series in Textiles: Number 125, 2012, Fig. 1 Scatter diagram and linear regression model

[3] Bahir Dar textile factory, Weaving preparatory & loomshed section data,

NEWS

CAMBODIAN PM URGES PRC TO EXPORT RAW MATERIALS BY AIR, SEA. Prime Minister Hun Sen recently urged Chinese ambassador to Cambodia Wang Wentian to explore the possibility of exporting raw materials by air and sea to the country to prevent job losses from a suspension in the operation of garment units. Both sides may suffer transportation costs but will secure labour forces, incomes for garment workers and production.

34

He was speaking at the inauguration of a 174-kilometre-long national highway in Oddar Meanchey province, according to a report in a Cambodian newspaper.

The Garment Manufacturer’s Association of Cambodia said earlier this month that more than 60 per cent of raw materials used in their factories are imported from China, with many

suppliers temporarily halting production.

According to Ith Sam Heng, minister of labour and vocational training, about 7,000 workers will face layoffs if the delivery does not materialise and, if the shortage drags on, about 90,000 workers will be suspended by March end

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February 2020

YARN REPORT

BASIC TEXTILES EXPORT JUMPS FROM LOW BASE NITIN MADKAIKAR Textile Beacon

Basic textiles comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment jumped 35% YoY in January 2020, both in terms of US$ and INR worth US$869 million or INR6,098 crore, accounting for about 3.3% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. A year ago, the same group of basic textiles had accounted over 2.4% of total merchandised export. In January 2019, exports

the same months of previous season.

Bangladesh was the largest market for Indian cotton export, followed by China, Indonesia and Vietnam. No shipment was shipped to Pakistan this month, which had imported 56 thousand bales in January 2019.

The average price realisation works out at INR113 a kg or US cents 73.01 per pound. This was lower compared to CotlookA index, the global spot price benchmark for cotton and higher than Gujarat Shankar-6, the benchmark for domestic spot price.

During the month, Cotlook averaged US$78.74 per pound and Shankar-6 US cents 71.55 per pound.

Yarn Export

had declined sharply by24% in US$ term and by 16% in INR term. Hence, the sharp growth in January 2020, is from a very low base. Meanwhile, the INR to an US$ slightly weakened to average INR70.17 this January from INR70.02 last year.

Spun yarns shipment totaled 132 million kg (up 37% YoY)) worth US$362 million (up 29.5%) or INR2,540 crore (up 30%). The unit value realization of all types of spun yarn averaged US$2.75 per kg, lower by US cents 16 from a year ago but up US cents 4 from previous month. Bangladesh

Cotton Export December is usually the peak month for cotton export but shipment was the lowest for the month since 2016.

It appears that the shipment rolled over into January, with 13.50 lakh bales exported during the month.

This takes the total export to 26.8 lakh bales worth US$US$728 million in the first four months of 2019-20 marketing season. This was still lower than the 32.1 lakh bales shipped in

February 2020

was the largest market for spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value, and rising year on year.

Cotton yarn export was 108 million

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kg worth US$300 million (INR2,110 crore), up 29% from a year ago level.

77 countries imported cotton yarn from India in January at an average price of US$2.79 a kg, up US cents 4 from previous month but down US cents 17 from a year ago.

China re-emerged as the top cotton yarn market, as it raised its import 15% by volume and 11% by value this January. During the month, export to China was 31 million kg worth US$73 million. Bangladesh followed China with volume and value surging 46% and 36% respectively, year on year.

Egypt and Portugal were the other major export market for cotton yarn during the month, with former recording 48% increase in value and latter jumping 64%. 11 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this January as they had imported yarn worth US$5.8 million worth in January 2019.

No shipment was reported for Pakistan this month. Last year, export to Pakistan was 1.35 million kg worth US$5.30 million. However, the lost markets were replaced by 21 others which imported yarn worth US$5.20 million. Oman and Argentina were the major new market this January to last year. Iran, Nepal, Israel, Brazil and Taiwan were among top fastest major importers of cotton yarn in January, while Madagascar significantly reduced its imports compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports jumped further 26% in January extending the rally seen since November. They comprised 3 million kg of viscose yarn, 3.3 million kg of polyester yarn and 1.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. The rise was led by viscose yarn, which more than doubled in terms of volume and up 70% in value.

Viscose yarn worth US$8.4 million or INR58.6 crore was exported at an average price of US$2.81 per kg in Janu-

35

YARN REPORT ary to 32 countries. Of these Bangladesh, Turkey and Belgium were the major markets. Export to Bangladesh was worth US$1.82 million, followed

by Turkey at US$1.29 million and Belgium worth US$1.17 million. Iran was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during January.

Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$7.18 million and were exported to 42 countries at average unit price of US$2.16 a kg, down US cents

20 from last year. Turkey remained as the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Morocco and USA.

the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly

by Brazil.

Blended spun yarns worth US$41 million were exported in January, up 35% YoY. During the month, 10.3 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$24 million while 3.8 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$9.60 million. Egypt was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Colombia. Turkey was

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 69.6 million kg (up 36% YoY), valued at US$103 million (up 16% YoY). But the jump largely reflected the 23% decline recorded in January 2019. Only viscose filament yarn exports were sluggish while others recorded sharp increases up in value terms with significant increases.

FINANCIAL UPDATE

HIGHLIGHTS OF Q-3 (2019-2020) RESULTS OF MAJOR TEXTILE COMPANIES. Sr. No.

Name of the Company

(1)

(2)

1.

Grasim Industries Ltd.

4,498.89

2,196.50

48.82

750.92

16.69

406.63

9.03

204.83 184.67

2.

Arvind Ltd.

1695.70

806.18

47.54

NA

NA

189.12

11.15

189.12

1337.34

677.42

50.65

NA

NA

136.44

10.20

172.24 148.39

1,722.88

859.68

49.89

192.94

11.19

143.89

8.35

158.47 188.86

3.

4.

(3)

(4)

% of Power/ % of Employees % * P/L R. M. Fuels Power/Fuels Cost of Emp. Before to to Income Cost to Tax Income Income (5) (6) (7)

Net Profit /Loss (8)

56.13

5.

Trident Ltd.

1,130.39

500.15

44.24

NA

NA

145.36

12.85

48.02

41.90

6.

Raymond Ltd.

933.21

161.29

17.28

NA

NA

119.64

12.82

51.16

33.09

7.

Century Tex�les Ltd.

854.44

446.76

52.28

106.56

12.47

64.10

7.50

98.07

57.44

8.

Sutlej Tex�les & Ind. Ltd.

572.83

302.01

52.72

61.44

10.72

86.91

15.17

29.05

19.55

9.

RSWM LTD.

761.09

380.19

49.95

NA

NA

93.34

12.26

2.55

2.02

608.72

261.11

42.89

NA

NA

32.59

5.35

21.11

16.62

438.90

229.21

52.22

56.75

12.93

48.55

11.06

7.53

5.76

417.74

174.02

41.65

NA

NA

47.37

11.33

12.02

8.23

402.24

239.21

59.46

NA

NA

26.52

6.59

8.20

5.80

343.79

220.21

64.05

NA

NA

23.77

6.91

6.58

4.40

336.06

127.61

37.97

NA

NA

63.11

18.77

24.60

20.16

306.07

154.35

50.42

NA

NA

24.29

7.93

38.93

31.30

10.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

36

Welspun Industries Ltd. Vardhman Tex�les Ltd.

Net Raw Sales Materials (Income) Consump�on

Indo Count Industries Ltd. Sangam India Ltd. Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd. Ni�n Spinners Ltd. Sportking India Ltd. Banswarasyntex Ltd. Technocra� Industries Ltd.

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February 2020

SURAT REPORT The onslaught of cheap imports of Nylon yarn wounded local yarn spinners The members of the Nylon Spinners Association said that the Indian nylon filament yarn industry is suffering due to the onslaught of cheap imports. The imports of nylon yarn from China have increased from avg 23 mt/ month in the year 2016 to 1,250 mt/ month by the year 2019, the rise of almost 5180%. An extreme surge of imported yarn at different prices is affecting the local yarn spinning industry.

In a press release, the association has stated that against the onslaught of cheap imports of the nylon yarn, the spinners had applied to impose Anti Dumping Duty. DGTR authorities conducted a detailed investigation of facts and figures of application and the DGTR office has concluded that there is a genuine injury to local yarn spinners. DGTR office has issued its “Disclosure Report” on nylon filament yarn anti-dumping petition on 4th February 2020. However, after the issue of disclosure report, vicious propaganda against this Anti Dumping Duty started by importers lobby by a few individuals with vested interests.

The allegations issued by this lobby is baseless.

Nylon accounts for only 2% in MMF, rest is Polyester, Viscose, and other fibers. Out of the 2% segment of Nylon weavers, 80-85% weavers uses Nylon yarn manufactured by India spinners. During 10 years of Anti DumpingDuty(2007-2017), the consumption of domestic produced Nylon yarn increased from 3000 mt/ month to 10,000 mt/month. This indicates the kind of support and cooperation among weavers, knitters, and domestic spinners. So, the allegation that if Anti Dumping Duty is imposed, weaving and Knitting industry will close and about 1 to 1.5 lac workers will be unemployed is meaningless.

The prices of Nylon yarn are majorly dependent on international raw material prices as well on supply-de-

February 2020

mand. The domestic industry itself is having un-unutilized surplus capacities to the extent of 28-30% as against 18-20 imports. The argument that after implementation of Anti Dumping Duty, spinners will rig the prices of nylon yarn with ann increase of Rs 100/ kg is a blatant lie.

The association has stated that power loom is being replaced to Rapier, Water jet and Air jet looms to reduce the cost of production, mainly with the help of the TUF scheme, capital & interest subsidy incentives by the state government. During the last two years, there was no Anti Dumping Duty. So, the allegation of around 1.5 lac power looms are scrapped in the last 2 years is vague to create fear in weavers.

Indian made Nylon yarn is continuously being exported to Turkey, Bangladesh, Brazil, Italy, Egypt, Morocco, Algeria, Sri Lanka, etc. This itself proves that Indian made Nylon yarn is of international grade.

Domestic spinning Industry is having an investment of about 3,000 crores and annually contributing approx 350 crores of GST with about 10,000 direct employment. The industry has exposure to 50,000 by way of dependent families, support services and logistic providers. If cheap imports continue, the local spinning industry has to shut down operations and the very spirit of Make in India will also Die.

in many quality has also given the rise in chemical prices.

The prices of dyes Scarlett BR has risen 17%. Along with this, Rubein BL price increased by 12%, Blue GSL 8%, and Orange RL Prices have increased by 6.5% per kg. The price of Red CF Chemical, useful for printing in the mill, has risen by 70%. Before some time, the rate of this chemical was Rs 436 per kg, which has increased to 745. The availability of many colorchemicals is low. Supply against the demand of Pink SB Chemical is limited. Similarly, the supply of Red F3BL, Red YFBL, and Yellow NGL Chemical are less. The increase in the price of the color chemical has been implemented from 14 February.

There are about 350 textile dyeing and printing mills in Sachin, Palsana, Pandesara, and Kadodara. About three crore meters of fabrics are processed in dyeing and printing mills per day. The textile processors said, if the chemical supply cycle is not regularized, the chemical price may further go up in the coming time.

The recent rise in dye and chemical prices has increased the production cost of textile processors in the city.

The association of textile processors has called a meeting in the next few days to decide on a hike in fabrics job charges. They may increase job charges by 5-7%.

SGCCI TO ORGANIZE A Price of textile chemi- TEXTILE EXHIBITION IN cal increased up to 17%, BANGLADESH The Southern Gujarat Chamber of fabrics job charges may Commerce and Industry(SGCCI) will organize a textile exhibition from 2 rise by 5-7 percent to 4 April 2020 in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

The variety of colors and chemicals used in textile processing mills has received an increase in prices. The chemicals and dye manufacturers in south Gujarat have been importing raw material from China in bulk quantities. Manufacturing of color dye raw material has been affected after the outbreak of coronavirus in China.

The prices of textile chemicals rose by 6 to 17 percent. The short supply

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This event will encourage the Trade and Industry of South Gujarat and will help to promote the ‘Brand Surat’. In more than 100 stalls, various categories of textile yarn, fabrics, and machinery will be presented in this three days event. This expo will help local manufacturers, dealers and suppliers to showcase their product.

This event will encourage local yarn and fabric producers to export their

37

SURAT REPORT goods in foreign markets. This three days event will focus on new trends and quality fabrics and textile machinery, types of equipment, technology, and accessories.

Cotton-viscose fabrics production improved : Orders for modern textile machinery increased During last few months, the demand for cotton & viscose fabrics increased in textile city. The exporters have received good orders. The installation of high-speed Air-jet machines used to produce cotton-viscose fabrics has also increased.

The deadly Coronavirus spread in China has affected the overall production. Many industries have shut down their operation. However, the Surat textile industry has benefited.

Surat is the largest producers of polyester-synthetic fabrics in india. Local textile entrepreneurs have increased production capacity over the past

decade by investing in waterjet-airjet machines to capture export quality products. Most of the polyester fabrics are sold indoors and the demand for cotton, viscose and other fabrics are more in export market. The modern airjet machine is the most flexible to meet the global demand for glaze cotton, rayon, denim. Airtel machines have been installed in Surat for the past decade.

For textiles product, including cotton, glaze cotton various countries rely on China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia and India. Because of high production cost in India, various comapnies of world, make their major purchases from China. China accounts for over 33% of the world’s textile market. India’s textile industry has benefited from China-US trade war. The domestic textile companies are able to meet the need of textiles for ready-made garments of countries of the world. Surat is rapidly emerging in this direction.

According to sources, large orders are being received for companies that manufacture textiles on AirJet

machines. There are more orders for Glaze Cotton, Rayon, Denim. There are around 3,000 AirJet machines installed in the city and production from these machine accounts for 20 percent. The production in China has almost stalled due to the coronavirus. India has the best supply to meet the needs of the world’s countries.

Most of the Asian countries that used to order China are now giving orders to India. Orders from Malaysia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka have been diverted to India.

The future of the AirJet machine in India is bright. The industrialists of the city are eager to invest in modern machinery. The production of pure silk has declined and cotton-viscose can take place instead of pure silk.

China recently vacated the $ 2.4 billion apparel market from the United States, the Export Promotion Council said in a statement. This market has been emptied after the US-China trade war. Indian companies are capable of capturing a market of $ 237 million.

NEWS

COME APRIL, YOU WILL GET TO WEAR A SAREE FROM H&M.

“It is the first time, and most probably, the last time that H&M is selling sarees because of our collaboration with an Indian designer. The idea is to surprise consumers and we will have to see what response we get and how it fits the future,” said H&M’s India CEO Janne Einola at RAI Retail Leadership Summit.

Mumbai : Swedish fast-fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) said it will launch sarees in India by midApril as part of its partnership with designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, the first-ever instance of any ethnic product being launched by the world’s second-largest clothing firm globally.

The Stockholm-based H&M stocks fast fashion items created in-house and teams up with designers for onetime collections, but has restricted its merchandise to western wear. “It is the first time, and most probably, the last time that H&M is selling sarees

38

because of our collaboration with an Indian designer. The idea is to surprise consumers and we will have to see what response we get and how it fits the future,” said H&M’s India CEO Janne Einola at RAI Retail Leadership Summit.

Sabyasachi, who has dressed celebrities including Deepika Padukone, Nita Ambani and Oprah Winfrey among others, sells products for Rs 2 lakh and upwards on an average.

However, H&M said their collection in collaboration will the designer would be completely mass-priced as an effort to democratise fashion.

In India, ethnic wear is the single biggest category in women’s wear accounting for over 70% of the segment with saree controlling a third of the market with its market size of Rs 39,350 crore, according to Technopak. Last year, Japanese rival Uniq-

lo, had launched special collection of Kurta during its Indian entry after partnering Delhi-based designer Rina Singh. Nearly two years ago, Tataowned Titan, too, launched its saree brand Taneira.

“H&M’s strategy will help increase curiosity among consumers and sarees would like a collectors item. H&M is also trying to create interest for the new collection with merchandise going beyond its conventional western wear,” Subrata Siddhanta, CEO at Texperts, a fashion specialist firm.

H&M has opened a store a month in India on average so far since its entry in India in October 2015. The retailer has 47 doors and is the second-largest fast fashion brand after Zara. The retailer follows a December-November financial year, and reported sales growth of 45% to Rs 1,491 crore in 2019. With China,

www.textilevaluechain.com

February 2020

FABRIC REPORT

WEAVING INDUSTRY VIEWS SAROSH FAKIH Weaving Industry comprises 65-70 % of the entire Textile industry. And yet, this industry’s representatives were never involved with policymaking.

None of the weaving sectors were invited for the new textile policy meeting in Bhiwandi, Surat, Ichalkaranji, and other cities of south India. We expect the new textile policy to focus on weaving and the processing sector, as there has never been enough finance allocated to the weaving industry. The textile budget allotted to this industry in the past few years is around Rs.5000 crore, out of which the weaving sector gets only 3% of the budget even though it represents 70% of the industry.

In the new textile policy, the ministry has planned to compulsorily scrap off all the power looms and bring in the latest technology.

There are around 23 to 27 lakhs power looms in the country out of which only 1,35,000 and 1,50,000 are shuttleless high-speed machines.

Abolishing such a significant number of devices in the entire sector will be done between 2020 to 2025.

Before the industry takes up the leap, its mandatory to study product specification as certain products can only be made on basic power loom and up-gradation of these looms will require more than 1 lakh of funds spread over 5 years to conduct such activities.

The production capacity to make 50,000-meter cloth is not available which in turn leads to disruption in employment and business.

Another issue that comes into the picture is the insufficient amount inclined to make changes in the sector.

The amount allotted is 1 lakh crores which were found to be inadequate because the changes include a lot of things such as changing the archi-

February 2020

tecture of the shades, wipes, and requirement of machines, etc. Thus, in order to bring modernization more than two and a half to three crores are required.

The weavers are suffering due to heavy anti-dumping duties on polyester yarn. The anti-dumping duties of yarn make the industry and weavers suffer, so eliminating them is demanded.

Ready-made apparel and garments imported from the NFS status nation are duty-free, which leads the industry to subsidize Bangladesh, Vietnam and other such countries. The importing countries are given elite treatment by our industry however as the weaving sector is not able to cope up with demand and supply approach because of the infrastructure it leads to the suffering of the industry impacting its economy and GDP rate. The request to the government has been initiated to bring up modernization to improve the productivity of the weaving industry systematically.

The suggestion would be to introduce more looms to the sector to meet the demands and match the exporting capability with countries such as Bangladesh and Vietnam. The Government introduced a “breathing space” initiative and also RSEF which assure to be on the better side for upgrading and supporting the industry since there are many opportunities for the Industry to grow worldwide. Looking at the endeavour shows a wider scope for the industry to create a better working textile market globally.

Mr. Ashish Gujrathi from Pandessara Weavers Association stated that After China’s Corona Virus , Surat weaving industry is in the comfortable position, as China’s Export has stopped. New enquiry generated

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from EU, USA. Our members have total 40000 shuttle less looms which are Rapier, waterjet, airjet Morden loom for export quality fabrics. We make millions of meter fabrics daily in Surat, out of which 5% quality is for Export, Surat making Umbrella, Luggage fabrics, grey fabrics , garment fabrics , coated and laminated fabrics. Our industry growing at 3-4 % YOY. Pandesara has 700 members and 400 process house.

Mr. Ashokbhai Jirawala, President of Federation of Gujarat Weavers Welfare Association, Surat Industry problems floated to government but not taken fruitful step and action.

Surat is self made industry city but fast growth requirement is missing.

Other state policies giving excise , power benefits etc. Gujarat government planning to give power benefits upto Rs.2 for industry for certain conditions, GI has been issued but not implemented till now. Surat has 8.5 lakhs power-looms, Number one production in the world with 3000 crore meter production per month.

Due to missing speed in Surat for expansion purpose, many industries are relocating from Surat to Nandurbar, Malegaon, Ichalkaranji, Rajasthan etc. Textile industry has 200 crore defaulter every year, no action taken for this. Technology upgrade, Speed, Power, GST, State Policy, Subsidy , Exemption many issues Surat industry facing right now, but no action taken by Textile Ministry yet.

Nylon spinners have met press people and told that import should be stop but only 15% import happening in the country. When Surat manufacturer diverting production from polyester to nylon with same machinery , the quality of imported nylon yarn is missing, so import is natural. Nylon manufacturer growing at 26 % with , 33% Profit.

39

APPAREL REPORT Execu�ve Summary • The apparel IIP was valued at 139 in November 2019, recording an increase of 3% as compared to that in November 2018 and an increase of 1% as compared to that in October 2019.

• The apparel CPI has remained constant at a value of 150 in December 2019, while it recorded a minute increase of 1% as compared to that in December 2018.

• The apparel exports in November 2019 stood at US$ 1,059 million, showing a 5% decrease from that in October 2019 and 6% decrease from that in November 2018. The apparel exports to the largest market USA increased by 6% in Apr-Nov 2019 as compared to that in Apr-Nov 2018, while those to Saudi Arab and Nigeria increased by 47% and 68%, respec�vely. However, the apparel exports to other major markets declined.

• The apparel imports in November 2019 stood at US$ 104 million, showing a 7% decrease from that in October 2019 and 11% increase from that in November 2018. Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, has increased by 13% in Apr-Nov 2019 as compared to that in Apr-Nov 2018. India’s imports from China have also increased by 11%.

• Analysis of financial filings of select apparel manufacturers and fashion brands & retailers for Q2 FY 2020 over Q2 FY 2019 highlights the following: • Most of the companies have shown an increase in their opera�ng revenue • The fashion brands & retailers have shown an improvement in their Opera�ng Profit Margin (OPM) with V2 Retail’s OPM showing a significant improvement from -18.1% in Q2 FY 2019 to 2.5% in Q2 FY 2020.

• Majority of the apparel manufacturers have shown a decline in their OPM. However, Celebrity Fashion has shown a significant improvement in its OPM from 4.5% in Q2 FY 2019 to 32.4% in Q2 FY 2020.

Apparel Index of Industrial Produc�on (IIP) Update 180 170

164

160 162 150

171

170

156

145

168 156

164

157

167 162 152

149

145 138

140

• The apparel IIP was valued at 139 in November 2019, recording an increase of 3% as compared to that in November 2018.

175

135

137

164

161 147

146

147 142

134

130

121

120

141 138

119

139 136

141

• As compared to October 2019, the apparel IIP showed a minute increase of 1% in November 2019.

118 106

110 100

2017

2018

2019

Data Source: Ministry of Statistics & Programme Implementation (MoSPI)

Apparel Consumer Price Index (CPI) Update

150

148 144

148 144

140

137

137

148 144

137

148 145

138

149 146

138

149

146

139

149

149

147

147

139

140

149 148

141

149

147

142

150

150

148

148

143

143

• The apparel CPI has remained constant at a value of 150 in December 2019.

• As compared to December 2018, the apparel CPI showed a minute increase of 1% in December 2019.

130

2017

2018

2019

Data Source: Ministry of Statistics & Programme Implementation (MoSPI)

40

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February 2020

APPAREL REPORT Monthly Apparel Exports Update In US$ Million

FY 2019

FY 2020

YoY Change

MoM Change

Apr

1,352

1,409

4%

May

1,339

1,530

14%

9%

June

1,359

1,233

-9%

-19%

July

1,275

1,366

7%

11%

August

1,293

1,262

-2%

-8%

September

1,105

1,081

-2%

-14%

October

1,132

1,109

-2%

3%

November

1,131

1,059

-6%

-5%

YTD

9,987

10,048

1%

1,409

2%

• The apparel November 2019 1,059 million, decrease of 5% October 2019.

-18%

• As compared to November 2018, the apparel exports decreased by 6% in November 2019.

• The provisional data for December 2019 indicates a significant increase of 33% on MoM basis and an increase of 2% on YoY basis.

Provisional Data for Latest Month December

1,377

exports in stood at US$ showing a from that in

33%

Data Source: DGCI&S

Country wise Apparel Exports Update In US$ Million

FY19 (Apr-Nov)

FY20 (Apr-Nov)

2,565

2,719

154

6%

UAE

1,253

1,102

-151

-12%

UK

1,009

999

-10

-1%

Germany

710

590

-120

-17%

Spain

483

471

-12

-2%

France

447

416

-31

-7% 47%

USA

Change

% Growth

Saudi Arab

234

345

111

Netherland

289

268

-21

-7%

Italy

239

207

-32

-13%

Nigeria

115

193

78

68%

Others

2,643

2,738

95

4%

Total

9,987

10,048

61

1%

• The apparel exports to the largest market USA increased by 6% in Apr-Nov 2019 as compared to that in Apr-Nov 2018.

• The apparel exports to Arab and Nigeria increased by 47% and respec�vely during the period.

Saudi also 68%, same

• However, the apparel exports to other major markets declined, specially to Germany.

Data Source: DGCI&S

Monthly Apparel Imports Update In US$ Million

FY 2019

FY 2020

Apr

56

May June

YoY Change

MoM Change

68

21%

-22%

67

85

27%

25%

73

78

7%

-9%

July

101

109

8%

40%

August

131

127

-3%

16%

September

113

117

4%

-7%

October

110

112

2%

-4%

94

104

11%

-7%

745

802

8%

96

12%

November YTD

• The apparel November 2019 104 million, decrease of 7% October 2019.

imports in stood at US$ showing a from that in

• As compared to November 2018, the apparel imports increased by 11% in November 2019.

• The provisional data for December indicates a growth of 12% on YoY basis and a decline of 8% on MoM basis.

Provisional Data for Latest Month December

86

-8%

Data Source: DGCI&S

February 2020

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41

APPAREL REPORT Country wise Apparel Imports Update In US$ Million

FY19 (Apr-Nov)

FY20 (Apr-Nov)

Change

% Growth

Bangladesh

240

271

31

13%

China

220

245

25

11%

Spain

65

63

-2

-3%

Hong Kong

31

49

18

58%

Sri Lanka

55

34

-21

-38%

Vietnam

19

27

8

42% -14%

Italy

14

12

-2

Cambodia

12

12

0

0%

Turkey

11

10

-1

-9%

Indonesia Others

Total

7

9

2

29%

71

70

-1

-1%

745

802

57

8%

•

Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, has increased by 13% in Apr-Nov 2019 as compared to that in Apr-Nov 2018.

•

India has also reported an increase of 11% in its apparel imports from China.

•

India’s apparel imports from Sri Lanka has shown a significant decline of 38%.

Data Source: DGCI&S

Financial Health of Select Brands, Retailers and Manufacturers Revenue from Opera�ons (Rs. Crores)

Company

Fashion & Lifestyle Brands and Retailers

Q2 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 FY 2019 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020

Opera�ng Profit Margin

FY 2019

Q2 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 FY 2019 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020

Aditya Birla Fashion & Lifestyle

8,118

2,007

2,065

2,297

5.3%

5.6%

11.5%

11.2%

Future Lifestyle Fashions

5,377

1,222

1,496

1,458

7.4%

6.9%

12.9%

12.1%

Shoppers Stop

3,481

864

832

845

7.4%

6.2%

11.1%

12.8%

Trent

2,532

616

767

818

9.3%

9.9%

18.3%

14.2%

V-Mart Retail

1,434

262

453

314

-0.2%

748

156

202

151

Page Industries

2,852

691

835

Gokaldas Export

1,173

294

840

215

778

8.9%

-1.1%

10.6%

3.9%

-18.1%

10.1%

2.5%

775

22.3%

21.6%

22.0%

18.9%

341

362

3.8%

1.8%

14.1%

4.6%

191

229

5.3%

2.2%

5.5%

2.7%

177

205

233

16.4%

14.3%

8.2%

12.7%

607

168

146

196

26.0%

28.7%

20.6%

25.6%

319

83

69

87

3.7%

3.8%

1.8%

2.3%

Celebrity Fashion

231

58

52

61

3.9%

4.5%

2.9%

32.4%

Bang Overseas

154

48

22

25

2.7%

6.6%

38.2%

-0.4%

V2 Retail

Pearl Global Apparel SP Apparels Manufacturer Kitex Garments s Kamadgiri Fashion Limited

Data Source: Bombay Stock Exchange

NEWS

219

18.4%

Note: Only major listed exclusive fashion & lifestyle retailers and apparel manufacturers are considered

INDIA’S SLOWDOWN BOTTOMED OUT; ECONOMY NEEDS TO BE OPENED UP FOR 10% GROWTH: PANAGARIYA.

India’s slowdown has bottomed out and now its economy needs to be opened up if the country wants to realise the ambition of a 10 per cent growth rate, former NITI Aayog Vice Chairman Arvind Panagariya has said.

In his keynote address at a discussion on India’s Union Budget 2020, he said in the next fiscal year, India’s GDP growth is expected to be 6 per cent and then it will get back to 7-8 per

42

FY 2019

cent which has been the case in the last 15-16 year period. “On the slowdown, my own assessment is that we have bottomed out,” Panagariya, a Professor of Economics at the Columbia University, said at the discussion organised by India’s Consulate General here in partnership with the US-India Strategic Partnership Forum (USISPF) on Tuesday. “In the second half of the current fiscal year, which

would be ending on March 31, we should see some bit of recovery, not a big one but certainly the second half (of the fiscal year) should look better than the first half,” he said. Panagariya noted that since about 2003, India has been growing at an average rate of about 7 per cent and the first five years of the Modi government was characterised by 7.5 per cent growth on an average.

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February 2020

EVENT UPDATE ITME AFRICA 2020 EXHIBITION – “PROSPERITY THROUGH TECHNOLOGY” OPENS TO A GREAT RESPONSE IN ADDIS ABABA ITME AFRICA 2020, the first of its kind business and technology Exhibition opened on 14th February 2020 at Addis Ababa, Ethiopia receiving 1791 unique visitors and 2100 + footfalls in 2 days from 35 countries across the globe.

Exhibitors from 15 countries showcased modern Textile technology and Engineering sectors from Waste Water Recycling, Dyestuffs And Chemical Products, Pumps and Valves, Logistic Equipment and more. Apart from 85 companies from India under the Umbrella of EEPC and FICCI, Italy had a showed prowess of 22 companies, Swiss pavilion with 12 companies and China with 19 companies.

This unique exhibition was inaugurated by H. E. Mr. Teka Gebreyesus, Honorable State Minister, FDRE Ministry of Trade Industry, Ethiopia, H.E. Ms. Dorothy Tembo, Executive Director, International Trade Centre, UN, Geneva, H. E. Mr. Anurag Srivastava, Ambassador of India to The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia and amongest the other esteemed dignitaries who graced the program with their presence H.E. Dr. Tizita Mulugeta, Ambassador of Democratic Republic of Ethiopia to India, H.E. Mr. Demeke Atnafu Ambulo, The Consulate General Of The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia in Mumbai, Mrs. Munteha Jemal Seid, Director General of Business Diplomacy, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ato Silesh Lemma, Director General ETIDI, H.E Ambassador Dewano Kedir, Permanent Secretary of Economic Affairs, FDRE Ministry of Foreign Affairs and official representatives from other countries as well.

Left to right H.E. Mr. Demeke Atnafu Ambulo, The Consulate General Of The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia in Mumbai, Mr. Yesuf Ademnur, Secretary-General, Ethiopian Chamber of Commerce and Sectors Association, Mr. S. Hari Shankar, Chairman, India ITME Society, H.E Ambassador Dewano Kedir, Permanent Secretary of

February 2020

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Economic Affairs, FDRE Ministry of Foreign Affairs, H. E. Mr. Anurag Srivastava, Ambassador of India to The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITME Society, H.E. Dr. Tizita Mulugeta, Ambassador of Democratic Republic of Ethiopia to India, H. E. Ms. Dorothy Tembo, Executive Director, International Trade Centre, UN, Geneva, Mrs. Munteha Jemal Seid, Director General of Business Diplomacy, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, H. E. Mr. Teka Gebreyesus, Honorable State Minister, FDRE Ministry of Trade Industry, Ethiopia, ATO Sileshi Lemma, Director General, ETIDI, Mr. Melaku Ezezew, President, Ethiopian Chamber of Commerce and Sectoral Associations, H. E. Mr. Anurag Srivastava, Ambassador of India to The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia The highlights of the day included donation of a “Laxmi CM-R Shuttleless Flexible Rapier Loom” from the Laxmi Shuttleless Looms Private Limited, to the Ethiopian Textile and Fashion Technology (EiTEX), Bahir Dar University.

EiTEX is Ethiopia’s premier textile educational institution the powerloom will contribute to teaching of EiTEX’s cadre of over 3000 students and expose enterprises in the Bahir Dar area to the newest weaving technologies available. This donation was supported and facilitated by the International Trade Centre’s SITA Project. ITC also launched their Report on Africa. India ITME Society and Kenya Association of Manufacturers signed MOU for further co-operation between India and Kenys in Textile Engineering Sector.

Mr. S. Hari Shankar, Chairman, India ITME and Ms. Phyllis Wakiaga, Executive Director Kenya Association of Manufacturers Signing the MOU

43

EVENT UPDATE from 15 countries have to Addis Ababa to showcase their latest technology, machinery relevant to Ethiopian textile and apparel sector. Buyer delegations from Ethiopia, Botswana, Ghana, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania showed keen interest in doing business with the Indian participating companies.

Mr. Ketan Sanghvi and Mr. Hemang Sanghvi Directors Laxmi Shuttle Looms and Dr. Abera Kechi, EiTEX, Bahir Dar University and Ms. Hanna Bucher, ITC

The other concurrent programs during the day were the Investment Seminar organized by ITC and moderated by Mr. Govind Venuprasad, Coordinator – SITA, ITC saw an excellent response and was well received by the audience.

The panelist for the sessions were Ms. Phyllis Wakiaga, Executive Director, Kenya Association of Manufacturers, Mr. Navdeep Sodhi, Partner, Gherzi Textil Organization, Switzerland, Mr. Sudatta Mandal, Chief General Manager, Lines of Credit Group, Exim Bank of India, Ms. Antje Steiner, DEG Invest, Regional Office East Africa, Mr. Sanjeeva Ileperuma, Director/CEO, Strathmore Apparel Manufacturing PLC, Eth., Mr. Pankaj Bedi, Chairman, United Aryan (EPZ) Ltd, Kenya, Dr. Philip Osafo-Kwaako, Chairman, Akosombo Industrial Co Ltd, Ghana and The B2F Meetings with Bank of Ethiopia, AWASH and Dashen and B2G meeting with Ethiopia, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania.

H. E. Mr. Anurag Srivastava, Ambassador of India to The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia said, “India is a front runner for investment in Ethiopia for textile and garment industry. There is a tremendous untapped potential for export of ready made garments from Ethiopia to the West. Therefore the Textile industry, which is the largest Industry of India should explore Investment possibilities in Ethiopia and take advantage of the duty free facilities.”

H. E. Ms. Dorothy Tembo, Executive Director, International Trade Centre, UN, Geneva said, “ITME AFRICA 2020 is a tribute to the African continent and the trade relation between India and Ethiopia over the past 2 decades have increased more than 8 folds. While African Companies are interested in upgrading their machineries but the major challenges they face are the financial support. Quiet a few of the companies are already looking forward to participate in the next ITME AFRICA event,” she said.

“ITME AFRICA 2020 scheduled from 14 - 16 February 2020 is a pioneer event poised to be a catalyst not only for the textile industry but also for the technology and engineering sector across the continent of Africa. ITME AFRICA 2020 is set to be instrumental in establishing Africa’s textile footprints prominent globally and to further develop bilateral trade and connect to new markets in Africa,” as expressed by Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITME Society.

Italian Trade Commissioner said, “It was a great inauguration ceremony, we have arranged for 22 companies in the Italian pavilion 2nd biggest after India pavilion in ITME AFRICA 2020. We have different specialization of textile machinery in the pavilion. The fair is well organized. Day 2 and day 3 shall see more visitors. As Ethiopia is the hub and an important market we expect more participants.

Have a great expectation from this fair. The organization was good.”

Mr. Ernesto Maurer, President Swiss Textile Machinery said, “Happy with the first day attendee and presence of many of these companies shows the diversity of the exhibition. Many interested parties were here and from fiber to shirt. Ethiopia can take more steps to bridge the gap but should start soon, it might take time but it will get there.”

Mr. Richard Salvatore, Co-ordinator, TEMSAD, Turkey said, “The response to this maiden event by India ITME Society was exceptional with a good quality of visitors flowing in. We could meet and interact with many people from Industry Associations and officials, whom we could otherwise never meet and connect with in any other exhibition outside Africa.”

Day 2 of the event has many more add value concurrent programs with ETIDI conducting seminar on “Potential Africa” which shall be attraction for all business men and the Technical Seminar on Cotton Development and Agro-copter from IIT Madras which has seen unprecedent registration from Technical Community / Academics / Students.

The B2B Meetings with Business Delegates from Ethiopia, Kenya, Ghana, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania looking at sourcing from India & Overseas opened up many possible opportunities for Trade & Investment and engaging and turning them into potential customers.

Mr. S. Hari Shankar, Chairman, India ITME Society shared that More than 180 textile and technology companies

44

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February 2020

EVENT UPDATE

SRTEPC EXPORT AWARD FUNCTION 2018-19 Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Union Minister of Women & Child Development and Textiles gave away the awards to exporters of synthetic textiles for their outstanding export performance for the year 2018-19 at a glittering function of The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) held on 8th February 2020 at Hriday Lawns, Hotel Sofitel, Mumbai.

ficulties faced by the textile industry, exports of MMF textiles during 2018-19 was to the tune of US$6.13 billion. Lauding the efforts of the exporters, she said that this was possible due to the concerted efforts of the Council and its member exporters.

She also informed that the Council has vision of achieving US$ 7 billion by the end of financial year 2020-21.

She remarked that the recognition of the outstanding performance by exporters will motivate the industry to excel in the coming year and spur them to imbibe international best practices.

The SRTEPC Special Award for the Best Overall Export Performance (Gold Trophy) was won by Reliance Industries Ltd. Grasim Industries Limited got the Silver Trophy for Second Best Overall Export Peformance and Wellknown Polyesters Limited received the Bronze Trophy for Third Best Overall Export Performance. RSWM Ltd. was also awarded a trophy of appreciation in this category.

In his speech, the SRTEPC Chairman Shri Ronak Rughani mentioned about the milestone announcement by the Government made in the recent Budget 2020-21 for setting up of the National Technical Textiles Mission with a four-year implementation period from 2020-21 to 202324 at an estimated outlay of Rs. 1,480 crore. He said that this will be a great lease of life for the MMF textile segment because more than 90% of fibres used in the Technical Textiles segment come from Manmade fibres.

The other companies who were honoured in various categories for best export performance were : D’décor Home Fabrics Pvt. Ltd., D’décor Exports Pvt. Ltd., Sutlej Textiles and Industries Ltd., SAAM Textiles Pvt. Ltd., Rughani Brothers, Le Merit Exports Ltd, Banswara Syntex Limited, Dicitex Furnishings Pvt. Ltd., PNR Industries Ltd., Grasim Industries Limited Unit : Indian Rayon, Filatex India Limited, Madura Coats Pvt. Ltd. SKAPS Industries India Pvt. Ltd , Pee Vee Textiles Limited, Daman Polythread Ltd., Vardhman Textiles Limited, Goyal Knitfab Pvt. Ltd., Kishorilal Shyamsunder, Shriram Rayons, Siddhachal Textile Private Limited, Reaghan Fashions Pvt. LTd, Duratex Exports, Atlas Exports (India), Shreekrishna Dyeing & Printing Works and BSL Ltd. Certificates of Merit were presented to Tulip Garment Accessories and Vineet Polyfab Pvt. Ltd. (Detailed list of Award Winners attached herewith).

The Hon’ble Union Minister of Women & Child Development and Textiles, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani said that despite global slow down and other insurmountable dif-

February 2020

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The SRTEPC Chairman said that its Council’s tradition to recognise the untiring efforts made by our Members in export front and celebrate together the outstanding achievements and enterprising skills.

Addressing the audience, Shri Anil Rajvanshi, Convener of the Export Award Committee and former Chairman, SRTEPC said that the Export Award Function is not just an event but a celebration of the hard work put in by the award winning companies.

On the occasion of the SRTEPC Export Award Function the Hon’ble Union Minister of Women & Child Development and Textiles release a Study Report by M/s. Gherzi Textil Organization AG, Zurich on “Promoting Growth of Man-made Fiber Textile Industry in India – A Roadmap to identify gaps and suggest measures”. She said that this report would help in addressing the issues pertaining to both production and export of man-made fibre textiles.

45

EVENT UPDATE SRTEPC Award winners for the year 2018-19 SRTEPC Special Award (For Overall Export Performance)

KNITTED FABRICS

Reliance Industries Limited Grasim Industries Limited Wellknown Polyesters Ltd. RSWM Limited

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy Bronze Trophy Trophy

Goyal Knitfab Pvt. Ltd. FABRIC-BASED MADE UPS

Gold Trophy

Dicitex Furnishings Pvt. Limited D’décor Home Fabrics Pvt. Ltd. Kishorilal Shyamsunder

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy Bronze Trophy

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy

HOME FURNISHINGS AND VALUE ADDED/EMBROIDERED TEXTILES

MERCHANT EXPORTER Dicitex Furnishings Pvt. Ltd. Le Merite Exports Ltd. POLYESTER STAPLE FIBRE Reliance Industries Limited

D’décor Exports Pvt. Ltd. Gold Trophy

VISCOSE STAPLE FIBRE Grasim Industries Limited

Gold Trophy

CONTINUOUS YARN Reliance Industries Limited Wellknown Polyesters Ltd. Filatex India Limited

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy Bronze Trophy

CONTINUOUS VISCOSE YARN Grasim Industries Limited (Unit : Indian Rayon)

Gold Trophy

CONTINUOUS POLYPROPYLENE YARN Daman Polythread Ltd.

Gold Trophy

SPUN YARN RSWM Limited swara Syntex Limited

Gold TrophyBanSilver Trophy

MAN-MADE FIBRE YARN BLENDED WITH NATURAL FIBRE Vardhman Textiles Limited RSWM Limited

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy

SYNTHETIC & RAYON DYED YARNS Sutlej Textiles And Industries Limited PNR Industries Limited

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy

SEWING THREAD/EMBROIDERY THREAD/METALLIC YARN Madura Coats Private Limited

Gold Trophy

SYNTHETIC & RAYON FILAMENT FABRICS D’décor Home Fabrics Pvt. Ltd. D’décor Exports Pvt. Ltd. phy

Gold Trophy Silver Tro-

SYNTHETIC & RAYON SPUN FABRICS Banswara Syntex Limited SAAM Textiles Private Limited

BLENDED FABRICS OF SYNTHETIC FIBRE AND NATURAL FIBRES D’décor Home Fabrics Pvt. Ltd. Pee Vee Textiles Limited

46

SYNTHETIC TECHNICAL TEXTILES Shriram Rayons (A Unit of DCM Shriram Industries Ltd.)

Gold Trophy

SKAPS Industries India Private Limited

Silver Trophy

MICRO & SMALL SCALE SECTOR Siddhachal Textile Pvt. Ltd. ghan Fashions Pvt. Ltd. ratex Exports

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy

Gold TrophyReaSilver TrophyDuBronze Trophy

MERCHANT EXPORTER FABRICS Atlas Exports (India) Rughani Brothers (a Govt. of India recognized

Gold TrophySilver Trophy

Star Export House) MERCHANT EXPORTER MADE-UPS Shreekrishna Dyeing & Printing Works

Gold Trophy

EXPORTS OF FIBRE/YARN TO “FOCUS LAC” COUNTRIES Wellknown Polyesters Ltd.

Gold Trophy

EXPORTS OF FABRICS/MADE-UPS TO “FOCUS LAC” COUNTRIES BSL Ltd.

Gold Trophy

EXPORTS OF FIBRE/YARN TO “FOCUS AFRICA” COUNTRIES Reliance Industries Limited

Gold Trophy

EXPRTS OF FABRICS/MADE-UPS TO “FOCUS AFRICA” COUNTRIES Atlas Exports (India)

Gold Trophy

EXPORTS OF FIBRE/YARN TO “FOCUS SAARC” COUNTRIES Reliance Industries Limited

Gold Trophy Silver Trophy

Gold Trophy

Gold Trophy

EXPORTS OF FABRICS/MADE-UPS TO “FOCUS SAARC”

COUNTRIES

SAAM Textiles Private Limited

Gold Trophy

CERTIFICATE OF MERIT Tulip Garment Accessories Vineet Polyfab Pvt. Ltd.

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Certificate Certificate

February 2020

EVENT UPDATE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS : 44 414 INTERNATIONAL VISITORS FOR A DISTINCTLY PARTICULAR FEBRUARY EDITION

The world’s leading trade show for the upstream creative fashion industry succeeded in mobilising industry professionals from 124 countries around more than 1,700 exhibitors for a distinctly particular edition due to the coronavirus-related health crisis. With nearly 45,000 visitors, Première Vision welcomed more than 80% of its usual audience to Paris this past 11-13 February to imagine, design and produce the springsummer 2021 collections.

This quite particular edition, dedicated to materials for the spring-summer 2021 season, presented a selective and creative offer from 1,710 international exhibitors in yarns and fibres, fabrics, leathers, surface designs, accessories and fashion manufacturing - with 48 countries represented. This was a solid showing, despite the loss of 45 Chinese companies initially registered that were

neither able to attend the show nor be represented by their European teams.

In this disrupted environment, Première Vision Paris fulfilled its role as catalyst for the global creative fashion industry by welcoming more than 80% of its customary visitors. In all, 44,414 visitors and international buyers came to meet their creative and industrial partners. Attendees voiced their approval for an event rich in inspirations, experiences and expert and strategic talks on the sector’s key issues, including eco-responsibility, technologies, societal changes, unique know-hows and more.

An edition driven by eco-responsibility and a top-notch program The February 2020 edition of Première Vision Paris put the spotlight on responsible creation, engaging visitors with a Smart Creation area that

welcomed 58 exhibitors presenting their latest eco-responsible innovations and fashion tech, in addition to hosting a full range of conferences in the Innovation Talks Area to explore the fashion of tomorrow, all of which were particularly well attended.

The fashion information prepared by the Première Vision fashion team for spring-summer 2021 was also highly acclaimed, with forums and seminars filled to capacity, notably that dedicated to the dynamic Sport & Tech sector.

The experience offered to visitors at the show was also impressive, with the «Mutations» exhibition exploring the link between technology and nature, the private evening organised at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs for the «Marche et démarche» exhibit, and an exhibition dedicated to lace at Maison d’Exceptions.

NEWS BOMBAY DYEING EARNS RS. 1,582 CRORE REVENUE IN Q3 FY20.

Bombay Dyeing, a textile company, reported its revenue from operation to Rs. 377.70 crore in Q3 that ended on December 31, 2019. For the yearon-year (YoY) basis, the revenue for nine months period decreased from Rs. 1,643.40 crore last year to Rs. 1,581.52 crore. Total income in Q3 stood at Rs. 389.61 crore compared to Rs. 425.31 crore same period prior year.

February 2020

Total income YoY basis was Rs. 1,627.36 crore compared to Rs. 1,680.51 crore in prior year. Bombay Dyeing reported loss before tax to Rs. 164.82 crore in the nine months period compared to Rs. 36.84 crore loss in prior year period.

Retail/ Textile segment sales for the quarter decreased to Rs. 46.25 crore compared to Rs. 82.28 crore in same

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quarter prior year. While for nine months period the segment stayed stagnant at Rs. 196.52 crore compared to Rs. 197.69 prior year.

Real estate net sales for nine months period increased to Rs. 503.87 crore compared to Rs. 373.73 crore prior year. Polyester net sales decreased to Rs. 881.13 crore compared to Rs. 1,071.98 crore.

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NITMA UPDATE LEVEL PLAYING FIELD IS ESSENTIAL FOR IMPROVING THE COMPETITIVENESS OF THE POLYESTER YARN AND ACRYLIC FIBRE SECTOR The Northern India Textile Mills’ Association, popularly known as NITMA is an apex association of North India serving the interest of textile units.

All the large textile mills in the Northern part of India are associated with NITMA and the combined turnover of its members is approx. 50,000 crores (USD 8 Billion). Formed in 1958, the association represents industry for all policy matters and disseminates information apart from conducting conferences, exhibitions, seminars & workshops. A NITMA delegation led by Shri. Sanjay Garg, President NITMA, had a fruitful meeting with Sh. Ravi Capoor, Secretary Textiles to resolve the critical issues concerning the Textiles Mills sector. The other members in the delegation were Sh. Mukesh Kumar Tyagi, Sr. Vice President, Sh. Sidharth Khanna, Director Arisudana Industries Ltd., Dr. Ravinder Verma, MD, Ganga Acrowools Ltd. And Sh. Anil Kumar Vasupillai, SG, NITMA.

1. The anomaly in the FTA agreements with Indonesia & Vietnam leading to closure of MSME Spinning Mills: On the issue of an existing anomaly due the ASEAN FTA, it was explained that due the inclusion of the finished product of the mills, i.e. Polyester Staple Yarn-HS code - 55092100, in the list of items in the said FTA, it has been cleared of imports with ASEAN certificate @ zero duty. Hence there has been a surge in imports particularly from Indonesia and Vietnam, mostly in the post-GST period.

It was indicated that, while the Yarn is cleared zero duty, its immediate raw material viz. Polyester Staple Fibre HS code is being imported at full duty of 5.5% since it is NOT included in the list of items of the FTA. This has de-

48

nied a level playing field for the Indian Spinning Mills as compared to their counterparts in Indonesia etc.

It was mentioned that this surge in imports has been happening of late, as some of our existing duties which were acting as a safeguard against imports in the pre-GST period were removed, while the government introduced the GST. Post-GST, with the removal of CENVAT and SAD, polyester yarn is being cleared @ zero duty.

NITMA suggested for urgent exclusion of Polyester Staple Yarn (PSY) from the FTA list or inclusion of its raw material, the PSF, in the FTA list of items. It is submitted that this would allow strengthen the vision of ‘’Make in India’’ and also provide the much needed competitiveness to the Spinning Mills products, which has been undergoing stress due to this grave anomaly, affecting its future and survival. As huge capacity are being added in our competing countries.

Secretary assured that the Textile Ministry is ready to facilitate the industry by all means to enhance the growth competitiveness of industry and hence necessary steps are being taken to unleash the growth of the Manmade Textiles sector, which has huge potential for growth in India. He informed that important decisions are expected in the next GST council meeting which will further help to improve the competitiveness across the entire textile value chain.

Secretary further said that it may be difficult to make the changes in the ASEAN agreement and it may also take little longer to review the current ASEAN Trade agreement. He reiterated that he has understood the difficulties being faced by this segment and is sincerely willing to provide Yarn manufacturing sector with level play-

ing field. He mentioned that it may be possible to identify other trade related measures to arrest the surge in imports, which have been affecting the competitiveness of the Mills sector and the entire value chain. He suggested NITMA to point out some Non Tariff Barrier (NTB) measures, such as, checking the quality standard of the imported yarn, which if introduced as a compliance measure could help make the hike in imports yarn reversed.

Secretary while discussing a way forward for resolving the issue has suggested that NITMA may carry out a study to identify the kind of NTBs which include the Environment related, Quality of the Yarn, Labour or Safety and health standards certifications which India can introduce and can make it mandatory and to be adhered by the exporting units of various countries. He said this could clearly work and hence can be introduced to arrest huge imports.

He also mentioned that in such an event, while India mandates that the exporting countries to comply with these NTB measures, it is also bound upon Indian industry to comply with these measures, which involve certain compliance cost and which would definitely pay off in the longrun as the industry become globally competent in the event of increasing sustainable processes and compliant measures which are being sought by International Brands etc.

2. Level playing field for MMF industry by removing the Antidumping duty (ADD) on Acrylic Fibre for enhancing competitiveness in the value chain.

NITMA delegation explained to Secretary that the imposition of ADD on the Acrylic Fibre, which is also known

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February 2020

NITMA UPDATE as poor man’s wool due to its affordability, has been continuing for the last 23 years against almost all exporting countries, hence making the raw material costly for domestic Acrylic yarn making sector and also making the value added downstream sector uncompetitive and its future growth uncertain. The story will be clear if one compares with Bangladesh, which exported USD 2.5 billion worth of sweater products, whereas India only exported USD 0.07 billion in 2018, though, both were at par in 1992. The Acrylic Fibrés value added downstream segment include sweater and shawl making, which has huge growth potential both in our domestic and export markets. These are mostly in the unorganized sector employing about 10 lakhs persons in India. The imposition for ADD on Acrylic Fibre has been pressed by 3 players in India, and all of them operates with huge revenues and profit margins and employs about only about 3500 persons.

NITMA requested Secretary Textiles to recommend to the Government to take decision for abolition of the existing ADD and also decide on not to impose any fresh ADD on Acrylic fibre to help its overall growth and competitiveness of the entire textile sector and also in view of larger public interest of livelihood to millions. Secretary assured that he will take the necessary steps to resolve this important issue which has been hurting the growth and competitiveness of the Acrylic sector, a potential manmade Textile sector area in India. He said that since the procedure of imposition ADD is being

NEWS

Secretary also said that NITMA need to act fast in explaining their issues to the other concerned departments in the Government such as the Commerce Minister, Commerce Secretary, Revenue Secretary, etc. he also said that the issue need to brought to the knowledge of the Textile Minister and Finance Minister to upraise them about the critical condition of the Spinning industry of Polyester Yarn and particularly that of the Acrylic Fibre and request their intervention to solve this grave issues urgently which has been continuing for such a long time of 23 years, hurting the growth of one of the high potential sweater making segments of our textile industry.

3. Issues on availability of Cotton in India for spinning Mills at competitive prices NITMA explained the current impasse in the cotton market and said that may be due to the uncertainty in quick decisions has led to huge hike in cotton raw material prices affecting both the raw material supply and the working capital availability.

NITMA has requested Secretary to intervene urgently to resolve this crisis situation so that both the cotton farmer and the spinning industry will be in a win-win situation.

Secretary assured that government is closely following the cotton economy and its supply side issues and will

come out with long-term solutions like Direct Benefit Transfer (DBT) to the Farmer for their Cotton related support and also ensure balanced price trend for Cotton Fibre which would help reduce the stress for the spinning industry.

4. One mega Textile Park of 1000 acres having textile Eco-system for Punjab NITMA delegation requested Secretary to consider locating one of the ten proposed Mega Textiles Parks of the Ministry of Textiles in the State of Punjab so that it can act as a Textile growth hub across the Northern region to drive the textile eco-system surrounded by clusters like Ludhiana etc. for generating employment and exports in a sustainable manner for future. Secretary said that he is more than happy to offer, provided the main criterion of making availability of the 1000 acre land by the State government is ensured. He suggested NITMA to work closely with Ministry and the State government for realizing the vision successful. 5. NITMA also invited Secretary to address the Textile fraternity of Ludhiana so that new vigour and dynamism can be generated from the young entrepreneurs to go out for investment and exports in the area of MMF textiles which is bound to unleash its growth together with technical textiles and blends. Secretary said he will be willing to come and meet the captains of the textile industry in the northern region and suggested to be in touch with his office for a date and time of the interactive meeting in Ludhiana.

TATAS MAY SNAP MUNDRA POWER LINES TO 5 STATES.

Tata Power tells discoms of Gujarat, Haryana, Punjab, Rajasthan & Maharashtra that supply may be stopped from March if tariff not hiked.

Tata Power, which runs one of the country’s largest power plants at Mundra in Gujarat, has threatened to stop supply from the plant to five states beginning March if they don’t agree to tariff increases. The Mum-

February 2020

decided by the DGTR, NITMA need to submit all data and details to the DG and explain the same in the public hearing. He has also suggested meeting DGTR urgently.

bai-based company, which may incur a loss of Rs. 1,000 crore from this one unit alone this year, has issued notices over the past few weeks to distribution companies owned by the state governments of Gujarat, Haryana, Rajasthan, Punjab and Maharashtra on the possible disruption.

People close to the development said that Tata Power has made it clear that

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it will not be able to run the power plant unless the pass-through of additional fuel cost to consumers is allowed.

“We have written to them (discoms) that we may have to consider shutting down if there is no positive response, we have not said we will shut down,” a Tata Power spokesperson.

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BRAND UPDATE

STÄUBLI SUPPORTS HOME-TEXTILE WEAVERS WITH QUALITY MACHINERY SOLUTIONS Home textiles range from simple linens to premium Jacquard fabrics.

Whatever the type, they must be produced in the most economical way possible. Weaving mills need reliable production equipment that supports an efficient weaving process in order to constantly deliver their products on schedule and within restricted budgets.

Stäubli automatic drawing-in machines set technology standards worldwide Many decades of technical expertise and ongoing dialog with customers form the basis of Stäubli’s SAFIR range of drawing-in machines, which deliver a maximum of customer benefits. These machines feature Active Warp Control (AWC), an advanced automation function that is unique worldwide. Integrating state-of-theart technology with optical recognition, AWC provides 100% controlled management of the warp threads for perfectly drawn-in weaving harnesses. Stäubli provides doubleend detection as a standard feature and offers options for color and/ or S/Z-detection and management.

The broad range of options allows equipping machines even further to optimize the drawing-in process for

specific yarn types, such as those used to manufacture home textiles like wallpaper made of woven glass, tablecloths, bed linens, or curtains made of fantasy yarns or bouclé. Every SAFIR machine can produce a wide variety of fabric constructions with no need for specially trained personnel for drawing-in. The great flexibility ensures suitability for each specific case and consistently high-performance operation. Preparing warps with SAFIR makes for the highest quality of drawing-in and ensures continuity in the downstream weaving process.

LXXL Jacquard machine – largeformat solution for unique designs The LXXL electronic Jacquard machine is the latest model in the renowned LX/LXL/LXXL series. It offers formats with up to 25,600 hooks, and can even reach 51,200 hooks with two Jacquards in tandem. Like all Stäubli products, the LXXL has been engineered to the highest quality standards. It features a smart design with strong, reliable, and well balanced kine¬matics, efficient hook selection systems, and Stäubli’s newly developed NOEMI electronics for optimum accuracy and stability of data transmission, even at the highest running

SAFIR S60 automatic drawing-in machine

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speeds. NOEMI also boosts the efficiency of the airflow cooling; the thermostat-controlled fans ensure stable operating temperatures under any production conditions. The improved and regulated airflow allowed Stäubli’s engineers to decrease the space between modules, which makes the LXXL compact. The machine easily fits into the weaving room, and the compact power supply is integrated within the frame. The LXXL can easily be adapted to any weaving machine by means of a drive-shaft transmission or an Independent Stäubli Drive (ISD) servo. The LXXL is already in successful use in mills around the world, applying woven patterns to luxury and high-quality fabrics with great numbers of yarns, including dense fabrics – even under high load and at high speed.

Stäubli is a leading global supplier of automation solutions for weaving preparation. For over a century, the company has been providing reliable, high-quality shedding solutions for frame and Jacquard weaving of home textiles and many other woven applications. With machinery renowned for long service life, Stäubli significantly enhances the cost-effective operation of textile mills.

LXXL electronic Jacquard machine

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February 2020

BRAND UPDATE

WITH AUTOMATION SOLUTIONS, SAURER TAKES NEXT STEP TOWARD AUTOMATED FACTORIES Textile companies are facing increasingly complex challenges: higher labour costs and employee turnover rates, not to mention the need to automate material flow, reduce lead times and boost productivity. Furthermore, companies increasingly require comprehensive automation solutions due to greater demands on yarn quality and ease of use as well as the trend towards large and heavy packages.

Saurer already has 30 years of experience in planning and installation of transport systems, especially between roving frames and ring-spinning machines. The company has successfully implemented over 100 systems worldwide.

The new product line Saurer Automation Solutions serves as customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; expert engineering partner for integrated automation solutions across the entire textile value chain. It con-

sists of specially designed automation elements that the project engineering team combines into tailored system solutions that are seamlessly integrated into customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; processes.

Thanks to these solutions, Saurer is meeting the growing demand for cost-effective automation of spinning and further processing in staple fibre spinning and twisting mills as well as in filament yarn processing.

Comprehensive data management with innovative quality functions has become indispensable along the entire textile value chain. With Senses, the digital mill management system from Saurer, customers can consolidate and analyse company-wide production, quality and performance data, even for machines from other manufacturers.

Saurer Automation Solutions offer tailor-made automation solutions in the following areas:

Automation_Ladeeinheit

February 2020

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Staple fibre spinning and twisting: can transport using automated guided vehicles, transport systems for roving bobbins, palletising systems, conditioning, packaging, transport systems for cross-wound packages from the winding/spinning machine to the yarn warehouse.

Filament twisting and cabling: transfer of feed packages with loading units on rail systems for BCF yarns and tire cord for block doffing. Removal of cross-wound twist packages using lifters/rail systems or an automated transport system to the next process step, such as automatic loading of thermosetting systems and weaving creels using robotic units.

Project engineering: consulting, project planning and implementation of custom solutions.

FlexFlowT

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SHOW CALENDAR March 2020 02-06

03

05-06

25-26

CII Mission on Design Taipei, Taiwan http://www.ciidesign.in

The London Print Design Fair 2020 London / UK https://www.thelondonprintdesignfair.co.uk

28-31

INDIAN POLYESTER CONFERENCE Mumbai, Maharashtra, India http://www.eliteconferences.com

India Carpet Expo 2020 New Delhi / India http://cepc.co.in/

31-03

Texcon – 2020 Indore MP/ India www.svvv.edu.in

GKD World Wide Weave Duren/Germany https://gkd-group.com

April 2020

13-15

HOME TEX EXPO 2020 Haryana / India http://www.hometexexpo.com/

02-04

6 th Bangladesh Int`l Printing Bangladesh / India https://www. printpackctg.html

17-20

Inlegmash 2020 Moscow / Russia www.inlegmash-expo.ru

02-04

Intertex Tunisia 3rd International Sousse / Tunisia http://www.intertextunisia.com

17-19

Ind – Texpo March 2020 Tamil Nadu / India https://www.ind-texpo.com/ IMI Europe/TCM Decorative Surfaces 2020 Vienaa / Austria http://www.surfaces-conference.eu

9-11

Fibers & Yarns Mumbai / India http://www.fibersnyarns.com/

08-11

Saigon Tex 2020 Garment Industry Hochiminh City/ Vietnam http://sgntex.com/en/

09-11

Inter Plast –Inter Pack Print 2020 Tanzania http://www.mxmexhibitions.com/interplastpack print

20-23

Simatex 7th International Buenos Aires / Argentina https://industriatextilexpo.ar.messefrankfurt. com/

20-22

Wide Format Summit 2020 Austin Texsa / USA https://wideformatsummit.com/

21-23

Emitex 25 th International Buenos Aires / Argentina https://industriatextilexpo.ar.messefrankfurt. com/

17-19

18-19

Gasification 2020 Lyon / France https://www.wplgroup.com/aci

18-20

Inter fabric Spring 2020 Moscow, Russia https://en.intertkan.ru

18-20

Ficci Frames 2020 Mumbai / MH / India http://www.ficci-frames.com

18-20

Fespa Brasil 2020 Sao Paulo/ Brazil https://www.fespa.com/en

19-21

Denim Show 2020 Mumbai / MH / India https://www.denimshow.com/

19-21

Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai / MH / India https://www.gartexindia.com

21-22

London Expo 2020 London / UK https://www.thelondonexpo.com/

24-27

Intermediate Nonwovens Training USA www.inda.org

21-23

The Nonwovens Institute, NC Raleigh NC/US https://thenonwovensinstitute.com/

24-27

Fespa Global Print Expo 2020 Madri / Spain https://www.fespaglobalprintexpo.com

21-23

Fiber & F E F Raleigh, North Carolina USA www.inda.org

24-27

INDA Headquarters Raleigh, North Carolina USA www.inda.org

23-23

Assocham Innovators New Delhi / India https://www.assocham.org

52

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February 2020

INTERVIEW INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY SHOULD DIVERSIFY; DEPENDENCY ONLY ON COTTON NOT HEALTHY In India, more than 15-yearold machines are still in the market for which many mills are planning for modernisation. “The challenge there is in terms of finance or funds.

As the banks and financial institutions are not ready to support the small and large textile business owners, modernization is also in the slow phase.”, says Balaji. According to him, the financial ecosystem is not conducive to lend to the textile ecosystem. That is a challenge. “Provided once finance is available, there is no stopping Indian spinning sector from modernizing and expansions will also happen in a big way. There will be a good amount of growth in this industry.

J.M. BALAJI Head – Marketing, LRT LRT is a market leader globally in Ring Travellers and catering to the requirements of over 5500 spinning mills in over 40 countries. Over 60 Million spindles are working with LRT – Ring Travellers. In the changing dynamics of the textile trade, J.M. Balaji, Head – Marketing, LRT, speaks exclusively to Textile Value Chain on the need for the industry to diversify.

Textile industry is going through turbulent times globally. But the Indian market is showing signs of improvement. We hope in the next few months there will be a improvement compared to the slow down we had in the last one year. As far as machinery purchase is concerned people are having a wait and watch approach.

The decision for machinery purchase taken a long time back ,who had delayed purchasing it , are now going for the actual purchase. Some are going for modernization. In case the spinning industry does not modernize , they will not be able to compete.

February 2020

He also says that India is weak in post spinning. We do not have high speed looms and dyeing and processing segments is also weak in India. In the garmenting sector , India has small-size units and scale is a big issue.

“Today 30-35% of yarn is exported from India. When there is a pressure on yarn exports, then Indianmills are forced to sellin the local market which brings down the prices significantly and profitability is greatly affected.”, he feels.

Last two or three months, yarn exports from India has picked up and overall, the industry will be better if this situation continues. “100 to 110 million tons of export of yarn from India has to happen for the industry to be in the good condition. We have 47 million spindles working in India. On an average, we produce 350 million tons of yarn in India. Out of which, 100 million tons, needs to be exported.In 2019 , till October , the average

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was below 70 million tons of export.”, he avers also sharing that if the yarn export is above 100 million tons, we can expect the situation to be better.

On the scenario of the global spinning industry, 200 million spindles are running around the world. India is having manufacturing cost advantage in ring yarn production and also availability of most of the raw materials and hence India will always be a leader in Ring yarn spinning.

According to him, the future is going to be more of manmade fibres used globally. “Presently 65% of yarn production in India is cotton yarn and 35% non-cotton and blends. Going forward, I feel that cotton focus is going to come down . More focus is going to happen specially on the non-cotton segment.”, he says .Balaji strongly feels that India should not be dependent only on Cotton and diversify to other fibres. That will make India more competitive in the global yarn market.

Organization plans: Speaking on his company plans, he said, “We are aggressive in terms of new product developments. We have recently launched Express plus which is much needed for the market. The new finish is doing extraordinarily well- in terms of performance and giving the spinners an extended life over existing products in the market.

The latest product is helping LRT gain further market share Speaking further on that, he said, the new profiles for compact, high-speed synthetics, coarse counts will strengthen the LRT’s presence in these sectors. “We had already launched Express plus in the recently concluded ITMA exhibition. The traction we had got in the 6 months is phenomenal. The sales had picked up significantly.”, he concluded.

53

INTERVIEW KARL MAYERTECHNOLOGY WITH INDUSTRIE 4.0/IOT DESIGN STUDIO WILL CHANGE DYNAMICS OF MARKET FOR BOTH A AND B SEGMENTS

Mr G V Aras: Thanks to KARL MAYER’slong history in India, its customer-focus and strong service support in warp preparation and warp knitting,the company is firmly embedded in the minds of Indian customers.

With A.T.E.’s support, KARL MAYERwill have a lot of opportunitiesin the years to come.

LEFT TO RIGHT

MR NAVIN AGRAWAL, VP, A.T.E. MR KEVIN SOCHA, MD OF KARL MAYER (HONG KONG), MR GV ARAS, DIRECTOR, A.T.E. KARL MAYER is a German, familyowned business which has been in operation for nearly 85 years. They are active in different business areasofthe textile industry such as warp knitting, weaving preparation, technical textiles, spares and componentsand after sales services, and digital solutions for the textile industry.

KARL MAYER are deeplyinvolved in the Indian textile market and have committed large amounts of resources to service, support, and manufacturing as well.

About the market in India Mr Kevin Socha: KARL MAYER is one of A.T.E.’s oldest partners with a relationship of more than 6 decades.

Starting with the warp knitting business and then the warp preparation business, this relationship has grown further with the tripartite joint venture – KARL MAYER Textile Ma-

54

chinery India Private Limited–among KARL MAYER, Rabatex Industries, and A.T.E.KARL MAYER Textile Machinery Indiais based in Ahmedabad and focuses on the manufacturing and sale of warp preparation machines and creels mainly for the Indian market, as well as service and spare parts sale for warp preparation and warp knitting machines.

KARL MAYER’s joint venture with Rabatex and A.T.E.will not only encourage Indian textile manufacturers to try German technology from India but also provide Indian textile manufacturers with a number of advantages. KARL MAYER India has a 50-strong team ofexperienced service people and KARL MAYER’s KM.ON digital service portfoliowill help customers on the path to digitalisation. KARL MAYER’sWEBSHOP enables customers to order genuine parts and components online.

Mr Navin Agarwal: We are very happy to be associated with KARL MAYER. While A.T.E. is completing 80 years, KARL MAYERis celebrating its85thyear, and both companies are growinghand-in-hand. The values of KARL MAYER and A.T.E.arevery similar.

Today, KARL MAYER’s machines and A.T.E. are well known in the corporate sector, and we expect to do very well in important textile clusters like Surat, Silvassa,Ichalkaranji, Coimbatore, Salem and Erode, etc., as well.

Enjoying market leadership Mr Kevin Socha: Undoubtedly themarket leader in warp knitting as well as in warp preparation in India, we are also a technology leader in both these segments. KARL MAYER hasa portfolio of specialised machines for the technical textile sector as well – a segment that is beginning to pick up in India.

Mr G V Aras: Our warp preparation machine supplieswere confined to A grade customers previously, but in the recent past, A.T.E. and KARL MAYER have worked together in the mid-range segment. These efforts

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February 2020

INTERVIEW have borne fruit – a number of aspirational customers nowuse KARL MAYER machines for warppreparation. One of the reasons that has contributed significantly to this is that air jet weaving (which has become very popular) demands good warp beams – something that KARL MAYER’s warp preparation machines are renowned for. KARL MAYERnow caters to large and mid-sizecustomers successfully.

to run on KARL MAYER machines.

KARL MAYER anticipates that this will change the dynamics of the market by changing the way customers purchase machines.A.T.E. is a part of this endeavour as well; A.T.E.’s office in Surat will help warp knitting customers create designs. The KARL MAYER website also has a virtual showroom which contains samples of the kinds of products that can be made.

Research anddevelopment is in KARL MAYER’s DNA

Warp knitting in active wear segment

Mr Kevin Socha: KARL MAYERunderstands the importance of research and development and has spent a considerable amount ofresources onR&D.We spend between 5 to 10% of our revenue in R&D and have R&D centresin Germany, China and Japan.R&D is part of KARL MAYER’s DNA.

Mr G V Aras:Though there are a good number of warp knitting manufacturers in India, the demand for active- and sportswear in India is met mainly by imports. Unfortunately, we lack good finishing facilities. Once these facilities are available, investment will roll in for active- and sportswear manufacturing as the demand for these are quite high in India. This, coupled with the fact that the growth of this segment is likely to be sustained due to the rising awareness of staying active to stay healthy, leads us to expect that the active wear segment is a huge opportunity.

By investing heavily inits digital solution – KM.ON – KARL MAYER’s is committed bringing the textile industry into the digital age with the help of industry 4.0 and IoT. KM.ONis expected to be the future of the business – it will help improve their machines’ connectivity and provide more information and feedback to the customers on how to improve machine usage and process optimisation.

Knitting Design Studio &digital presence

launch

In the last decade, knitting has grown in prominence in India. Productsthat couldbe made only through weaving can now be made through KARL MAYER’s warp knitting machines.A recent initiative to promote awareness about this,is the KARL MAYER Design Studio which will help customersmanufacture a variety offabrics. Customerswill be able to visit the KARL MAYER Academy (located at KARL MAYER’s factory in Ahmedabad)with samples and learn how to get the best from their machines and learn contemporary designs which will help them improve their design portfolio.

Mr Navin Agarwal: These designs will be created on a specialised EL (electronic control)machineand tailored

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also possible with proper finishing especially in shirts, jackets, and the like. In the future, it is possible that woven garments or fabrics might be replaced by warp knittedgarments – an area that KARL MAYER excels in.

Partnership between A.T.E. and KARL MAYER Mr G V Aras: KARL MAYER and A.T.E. have been active in the Indian market for more than 60 years together and we plan to keep going on for at least another 60 years.KARL MAYER has invested quite heavily in India. KARL MAYERwantsto be associated with customers closely and wants to help them withtheir machinery.

Mr Navin Agarwal: Considering the huge potential for growth, KARL MAYER is committed to the Indian market. KARL MAYERis quite happy with its growth in China and is waiting for things to pick up similarly in India.

We, at A.T.E., are happy to have KARL MAYER as our partner on this journey.

Competition

Warp knitting will partly replace weaving technology

Mr Kevin Socha: Unless youhave competition, you can’thave development. We are mainly competingwith Chinese warp knitting manufacturers. In warp preparation, we face competition from local manufacturerswith whom we compete mainly on price. Our warp knitting business faces competition from China and partly from Korea and Taiwan as well.

However, KARL MAYER’s technological superiority has stood us in good stead. Despite the competition, we are the undisputed market leader.

There are KARL MAYER machines that have been running for more than two decades and customers are as happy using them now, as they were when the machines were brand new!

Mr Navin Agarwal: Products that couldpreviously only be manufactured through weaving can now be also manufactured using warp knitting. Additionally, there is a cost advantage when manufacturing the same product using warp knitting – you can produce the same thing at a lower cost. Woven-like structures are

Mr Navin Agarwal: As far as the market situation is concerned, ups and downsare a part of the textile market.Economic slowdowns like the one happening right now are opportunities to develop stronger relationships with our customers. We do our best to guide customers to help them utilise their equipment more efficiently.

Home textile segment Mr Navin Agarwal: Another area that KARL MAYERis looking to grow in is home textiles. KARL MAYER’s terry towel warp knitting machineshelp weavers produce terry towel fabric of high quality for different applications. The demand for terry towel fabricis on the rise. KARL MAYER’s terry towel warp knitting machinery can serve a wide range of customer requirements – from large institutional requirements to the beach towel segment.

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INTERVIEW SRTEPC AWARD WINNERS VIEWS FILATEX INDIA LIMITED Awarded BRONZE TROPHY (Continuous Yarn) MR. MADHU SUDHAN BHAGERIA

Mr. Madhu Sudhan Bhageria, Chairman & Managing Director said, “We would like to thank SRTEPC for recognizing our contribution to exports. The favourable government policies like abolition of anti-dumping duty on Purified Tephthalic Acid (PTA) will benefit domestic synthetic yarn & polyester yarn industry. Moreover, demand pick up in countries like Africa and Latin America, increasing domestic capacity and strong competitive advantage would help us in increasing exports going forward.”

FILATEX INDIA LIMITED Awarded BRONZE TROPHY (Continuous Yarn)

MR.NAYAN DESAI

Company Incorporated as a Public Limited Company on 8th August 1990, FIL received certificate of commencement on 5th Sept. 1990.FIL is pioneer in manufacturing Mono Filament Yarns. FIL also diversified into Special Polyester Filament Yarns like Micro Denier Polyesters, and in 2008 FIL started manufacturing Polyester Fully Drawn Yarn using modern machines from Barmag, Germany. In 2009, FIL installed 167 state of the art automatic needle looms for Narrow Wooven Fabric (MalaiDori) with warping machines. At Filatex’s com-

prehensive facility, Polyester Partially Oriented Yarns (POYs) are produced on modern computerized plants procured from the world-leader in POY extrusion, BARMAG AG of GERMANY. The product USP is that products are manufactured as per customer’s requirement, consistent quality and low operating cost dedicated and well experience customer technical and support department, global presence energy efficient plant, global accredited certificates such as ISO 90012015, ISO 14001-2004 BS OHSAS and OKEOTE, experienced employees, long standing customers, suppliers, bankers and agents. Exporting countries for the products include BRAZIL, TURKEY, SINGAPORE, SOUTH KOREA, HONGKONG, CANADA, BANGLA-

DESH, EGYPT,POLAND,KENYA. The price strategies to compete with different countries include selling at the rate of US dollars in international market and operating at cost which will improve margins. The promotional strategy includes customer centric products and as per customer requirement and at affordable price, prompt delivery and services. Few of the guiding point for new investors in this sector would be • To Do Swot Analysis • To Study Government Laws And Regulations • To Study Export Process • To Study Global Growth

BANSWARA SYNTEX LIMITED

Awarded SILVER TROPHY (spun yarn)

MR. RAVI TOSHNIWAL

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BANSWARA is one of the largest single-mill set ups of fibre-dyed yarn in ASIA.

ing the U.S., U.K., Canada, Spain, Germany, Japan, France, UAE, and Turkey.

Over the years, we have forayed into markets in over 50 countries includ-

Product innovation has been an integral part of our work culture. We have

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February 2020

INTERVIEW diversified offerings in textiles and technical fabrics. There is no brand other than a B to B brand which is Banswara. For India this new decade is the big opportunity for exports in Textiles to grow dramatically. The

US vs China trade war and now the Corona virus have made it clear to the customers that they must derisk from China. The product USP is that European styled goods at better quality than China and at prices better

than Turkey!If you are a new Investor stay away from Textiles. It is a tough trade and return on capital employed is poor. Only if you have an extreme passion and a differentiated offering is it worth entering!

PNR Industries limited

Silver Trophy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; synthetic and rayon dyed fabrics

MR.SUKHENDU BHANDARI

PNR Industries Ltd. is one of the leading Polyester Yarn Manufacturing Company based in Surat, India.

We are the prominent leaders in manufacturing quality Polyester Yarn which we supply to our valuable clients worldwide. Our team started the journey as a trading company and today we have grown into a full-fledged enterprise where our production, supply and trading units deliver quality service to our customers. We are

one of the leaders in manufacturing premium carpet yarns. We strive the right balance between luxury and durability.This special quality high profiling yarn is produced by minimum number of producers. The yarn is a value-added product with huge demand internationally, since in India the suppliers are few. We have gained more customers in the past 7 or 8 years but have not lost any.

Initially, it has been started with one country which now spread across the globe including, USA, Europe, Middle East and the customers keep on increasing. Majorly the products are exported to Turkey and also to USA,

Jordan, Morocco, Algeria and Israel.

Our Uniqueness lies in reaping the first mover advantages by launching distinct qualities which enable our clients to weave exceptional carpets and to stand out from their competitors. Superior product quality has always been a cornerstone of our business strategy. Every month we visit the customers to know about the quality of the product they receive to get feedback. Our vision is to become the leader in specialty carpet yarn sector and retain that position. Our goal is to make our customers happy and satisfied by providing the finest quality of yarns so that they always have an edge over their competitors

LE MERITE EXPORTS LIMITED Silver trophy - Merchant Exporter

MR. ABHISHEK LATH

Set up in the year 2003 at Mumbai, we, Le Merite Exports (P) Ltd., are a widely popular firm engaged in the Manufacturing, Trading, Supplying and Exporting of Textile Yarns and Fabrics. We have been founded on four strong pillars namely: excellent quality, strong market reputation, outstanding service and sincere cooperation. Strict adherence to these core principles has helped us forge

February 2020

trustworthy alliances with our clients. We hold a very large share in the textile market and our textile raw materials are exported to several countries across the globe. Over the years, we have built a strong and immaculate reputation in the raw cotton and yarn business. We possess our own manufacturing facility which is spacious and modern. Our strong alliances and networks have the backing of financial stability and technical know-how. Reference of existing buyers can be provided to prospective buyers in any of the countries upon special request. Our main export hubs are Hong Kong and mainland China,Few of the countries

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where our yarns are exported include Bangladesh, China, Dubai, France, Spain, United Kingdom, Egypt etc.

Since our inception, our client base has expanded substantially. Most of our clients have become our regular customers because they have immense faith in our products and services. Since most of our revenue and profits are generated by these customers, satisfying their needs automatically becomes a factor of utmost importance for us. To achieve the same, we pay attention to the quality of our products and services and deliver them to clients at reasonable prices.

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February 2020

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PRESENTING RAYSIL 100% NATURAL AND UNMATCHED IN ELEGANCE. Made from premium, imported wood pulp that gives a feather-light feel, vivid colours and a natural lustre for new age royalty.

Contact: Mumbai: 022-66917930/31 Surat: 0261-4003361/62/66 Delhi: 011-41306630/31

VISCOSE FILAMENT YARNS FROM INDIAN RAYON February 2020

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