Innovative Techniques In Knit Production by Shivani Thattekar

INTRODUCTION

Knitting is a technique for spinning wool to create a cloth or fabric that is used in a variety of garments. Knitting may be performed with either a hand or a keyboard. Stitches are yarn loops in a row, either flat or in the circle, created by knitting (tubular). For every given time, the knitting needle normally has a lot of working stitches. Knitted fabric is made up of a series of linked loops that weave in and out of the next and previous line. Every new loop is pulled through one or more loops from the previous row and put on the gaining needle as each row is created, allowing the loops from the previous row to be pulled off the other needle without unravelling. Knitted fabrics with diverse properties, such as colour, density, thickness, heat retention, water resistance, and integrity, are made possible by variations in yarn (varying in fibre content, weight, uniformity, and twist), needle size, and stitch type. A swatch is a small piece of knitted yarn. Knitting is a method for creating a two-dimensional garment from a one-dimensional yarn or thread, similar to weaving. Threads in weaving are often straight and run parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft threads) (weft threads). Knitted fabrics, on the other hand, follow a meandering direction (a course), creating symmetric loops (also known as bights) symmetrically above and below the yarn's mean path. Knit fabrics have much greater elasticity than woven fabrics because of these meandering loops and can quickly be extended in various directions. Knitted garments can extend up to 500 percent depending on the fabric and knitting pattern. Knitting was made for fabrics that needed to be elastic or flex in reaction to the wearer's gestures, such as socks and hosiery. Woven garments, on the other hand, stretch primarily along one of a connected pair of directions that run approximately diagonally between the warp and the weft, thus contracting in the other direction (stretching and contracting with the bias), and are not very elastic unless they are woven from stretchable fibre like spandex. Knitted garments are also more form-fitting than woven garments because their elasticity helps them to contour to the body's shape more closely; most woven garments, on the other hand, only have sewn darts, flares, gussets, and gores, which reduce the elasticity of the woven fabric even more. Short rows or raising or decreasing the number of stitches can be used to add extra curvature to knitted garments without seams, as in the heel of a sock; the effect of darts, flares, and other details can be achieved with short rows or by increasing or decreasing the number of stitches. Weaving thread is typically much finer than spinning yarn, resulting in a knitted fabric with more bulk and less drape than a woven fabric. Knitting has seen a revival in popularity in recent years, with a variety of approaches emerging, ranging from innovative international runway fashions to the use of knitting in interiors in the form of light shades, cushions, floor coverings, chairs, and blinds, all focused on the versatility of stitch structure. Knitting has also been used by conceptual artists to produce projects of all sizes, ranging from largescale public sculptures to miniatures and wearable art, all of which question our preconceptions of the craft. The Internet and the development of a virtual group of knitters who subscribe to the many prominent and well-established blogs, online journals, and magazines have aided and encouraged knitting's increased popularity. Many Internet bloggers and photo bloggers post photos of their work on a regular basis, provide links to other websites, and actively encourage readers to participate in discussion forums.

Designsing

Knit designers are fabric designers, and yarn selection is critical to the fabric creation process. This chapter discusses yarn variety, working with colour and texture, and describing the different types of yarn available, including natural, synthetic, and hybrid yarns, as well as specialty yarns. Knitted stitches all create a textured

INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES IN KNIT PRODUCTION

SHIVANI THATTEKAR

PG Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, SNDT University, Juhu

surface, but the results vary depending on the yarn used, the tension used, the stitch combination used, and the yarn's performance. You will achieve more versatility in your work once you have a working knowledge of various yarn properties and an understanding of how one stitch interacts with another. Any of the following techniques can be used to create textures in knitting. • Boucles, chenilles, smooth silks, ribbons, tapes, fake fur, marled wool, mercerized, and specialty yarns are some of the more exclusive yarns. • Lace, tuck, weave, slip stitch, or a mixture of techniques may be used to create a stitch pattern. • Knitting with ridges, bobbles, knitted flaps, and cables in three dimensions.

• Additional surface decoration, such as embroidery, Swiss darning, applique, and smocking, is worked into the knitting after it is completed. • Combining hand knitting with machine knitting, crocheting, or tatting with other crafts As an innovative aspect of design, each technique has infinite potential. Knitting has the benefit of always offering something new to learn and make. When learning about knitting and building techniques, it's helpful to play around with different gauges, yarn sizes, and colour combinations to see what you can come up with. Always keep track of your ideas while you work so you can go back to them later, such as when sampling knitting gauges and stitch patterns. Knitting is becoming increasingly common as a social activity. Groups gather on a regular basis in churches, cafés, and on the street to sit, knit, and talk while exchanging ideas and patterns. Some knitting groups get together to socialise, learn, and develop new skills, while others knit for charity, therapy, or social change. e. Knitting and activism, also known as "knit bombing" or "graffiti knitting," has spread around the world, with environmental groups making knitted installations and "knit bombing" the atmosphere to demonstrate their concern for the environment and other social and political causes.

Knit-ins, knitting retreats, and knitting festivals such as Unravel and Knit Country, both in the UK, have bolstered these communities. Exhibitions, live presentations, and seminars are all part of the knitting festivals’ well-organized event programmes, which provide the ability to buy yarns, equipment, and knitting supplies from exhibiting stalls. The annual World Wide Knit in Public Day, created by Danielle Landes in 2005, is the largest group event to date. It featured more than 25 events from around the world in its first year. This event has grown in popularity and recognition year after year, and now includes over 800 activities. It encourages knitting groups across the globe to interact with each other, attracting a generation of new young knitters. It also results in many collaborative knitting projects, with large scale public installations and interdisciplinary projects between artists and craft workers developing within and between groups. Knitting’s resurgence in the twenty-first century has changed our perceptions of the art. This book delves into the world of knitting by exploring the methods, practises, and modern fashion concepts that have resulted in a multitude of exciting new designs and innovations. It looks at new concepts and trends in the field of knitted textiles and design, with work from some of today’s most exciting international knitwear designers. If you’re a student, artist, practitioner, or home knitter, you’ll find inspiration in this book, which is packed with samples, diagrams, and garment designs that show the flexibility of knitting and offer a range of techniques that can be explored and adapted for both hand and machine knitting. Knitting includes a broad area and a wide variety of methods and processes, from hand knitting to seamless knitting technology, whether using traditional techniques or modern technology. The manufacturing, design, and sampling methods used in the fashion knitting industry are discussed in this chapter. It also examines the various career options available in the industry, as well as the international trade exhibitions where a variety of exhibitors—from spinners to designers—display knitted textiles and manufacturing machinery.

Weft & Warp Knitting Technique

Knitting is divided into two types: weft knitting and warp knitting. The Wales in weft knitting are perpendicular to the yarn’s direction of travel. The Wales and courses in warp knitting are approximately parallel. The entire fabric can be made from a single yarn in weft knitting by adding stitches to each wale in turn, travelling through the fabric like a raster scan. In warp knitting, on the other hand, each wale needs just one yarn. Warp knitting is usually done by machine since a standard piece of knitted fabric may have hundreds of Wales, whereas weft knitting is done by both hand and machine. Tricot and Milanese are warp-knitted fabrics that are resistant to runs and are widely used in lingerie. Multiple yarns may be used to knit weft-knit fabrics, which typically results in fascinating colour patterns. Intarsia and stranded colorwork are the two most common techniques. The yarns are used in well-segregated regions in intarsia, such as a red apple on a field of green; in that case, the yarns are held on different spools and only one is knitted at a time. Two or more yarns alternate repeatedly within one row in the more complicated stranded method, and all yarns must be carried along the row, as seen in Fair Isle sweaters. Double knitting creates two different knitted garments at the same time . The two fabrics are normally combined into one, giving it a lot of warmth and a pleasant drape. Weft and warp knitting are the two primary types of knitting. Weft-knitted fabrics are made up of a horizontally spreading looped structure of interlocking stitches or courses that can be knitted with a single continuous length of yarn. Fabrics suitable for fashion garments are produced as a result of this process. The framework, on the other hand, allows work to be quickly dismantled. The most popular form of knitting is weft-knitted fabrics, which can be made by hand with knitting needles or on a domestic or industrial knitting machine. Warp knitting creates very stable fabrics that cannot be unravelled by zigzagging and join-

ing yarn loops in a vertical direction. Machines knit warp-knitted thread, which has one warp yarn per wale. In knitting, the wale is the vertical line of loops from which each stitch hangs. Corsetry, underwear, lingerie, sporting fabrics, nets and tulle, curtaining, and trims are all made from warp-knitted cloth.

Technology for seamless knitting

Shima Seiki in Japan and Stoll in Germany are the two major manufacturers of V-bed knitting machines. Both companies operate at the cutting edge of knit technology, developing products ranging from knit design software to traditional computerised flat knitting machines and seamless knitting technology. Shima Seiki provides a range of “WHOLEGARMENT®” knitting systems, varying in gauge from very fine to coarse. Stoll uses similar systems to create “Knit and Wear®” garment technology in a variety of gauges, resulting in multi gauge fabrics ranging from fine to coarse, with the coarse gauge giving a hand-knitted look. Knitting machine technology is continuously refined and developed in order to improve efficiency and set-up times, increase production rates, and enable machines to knit a wider variety of stitch structures. The front, back, and sleeves of a seamless garment are all knitted as tubes, with each part using a separate cone of yarn fed through separate yarn feeders at the same time. A computer programme shapes the garment, and then the components combine during the knitting process, resulting in one garment. This method produces garments that are both comfortable and have a flawless fit, according to Stoll, “providing new freedom in form and style, high fabric quality, and the removal of bothersome seams.”

KNITTING TECHNOLOGY IN THE FUTURE

Many collaborative and interdisciplinary ties exist between knit designers and artists, scientists, and architects, which stimulate ideas and lead to the creation of new concepts and products. Medical textiles, light-emitting textiles, and scan-to-knit technology, all of which have enhanced and advanced the production of smart textiles, have all benefited from research of knitted structures, as well as the efficiency of fabrics and manufacturing methods. By mixing methods and working with new yarns and materials, fabric growth can be achieved. It considers how conventional and non traditional knitting methods, as well as modern knit technologies, are used to produce exciting and creative designs that defy our preconceived notions of knitting. Knitwear has resurfaced as a trend, product design, decor, interiors, and fine art medium in recent years. Knitting has been revolutionised as a result of the application and investigation of modern techniques and materials, such as plastics, metal, rubber, and resin.

Many modern, cutting-edge fashion and knit designers use the tool and method of knitting, from Issey Miyake, Yoshiki Hishinuma, and Yohji Yamamoto’s groundbreaking designs to Dutch designer Christien Meindertsma’s “serious knitting” and the sculptural approach of influential Swedish designer Sandra Backlund.

Advantages

• We can make the fabric with the fewest number of yarns possible, even only one. • The fabric’s extensibility and flexibility can be easily controlled during the knitting process. • We may achieve the fabric’s desired compactness. • Knitted fabrics offer the wearer more freedom of movement and comfort.

• When we make fabric using the knitting process, we waste the least amount of yarn possible. • We can easily create fabrics that are suitable for both intimate wear and technological applications thanks to the knitting process. • At the time of knitting, we can assign the resultant structure the shape we want. • By selecting different yarns, we can change the number of yarns • Knitting provides us with a wide range of design options. • Knitted fabrics are highly permeable, allowing air to easily pass through them. Knitted clothing is also very useful in the summer.

Disadvantages

• Knitted fabrics have a lower degree of dimensional stability than woven fabrics.

• The production of glass fabrics using the knitting technique would be difficult due to the increased bending rigidity. Weaving, on the other hand, allows us to quickly produce glass cloth. • Knitting machines have a limited count set, while a weaving machine is a flexible machine that can generate fabrics of any count. • Knitted items have the following essential properties: • Weft knitted fabrics has a high extensibility but a limited elastic recovery, whereas warp knitted garments have a stronger elastic recovery than weft knitted garments.

• Knitted fabrics have a high tear resistance.

• Knitted garments have a high degree of crease resistance. • Knitted garments are thick and warm, making them ideal for wearing in the winter. • Knitted fabrics have a lower bending capability than woven garments when it comes to bending length. • Knitted garments have a poor tensile strength despite having a high bending modulus and permeability.’

References

1. http://www.fpp.uchile.cl/content/ docs/Knitwear_Design.pdf 2. https://textilestudycenter.com/ knitting/

ENTWINING YOUR CALLING IN KNIT INDUSTRY

NALANDA OTURKAR GADEY

Career Councelor and Overseas Education Expert, Founder, Flyy Hiigh Consultancy Services

Career is the primordial necessity in an individual’s life. You are known by who you become in the later years of life. It is either one right choice that can fix everything in your life or a wrong choice that can make everything go wrong for that person. Thus, one should not make that decision based on their score or expectations of their parents from them. The path you pursue should be the path you are passionate for! It should not only help you earn money but also satisfaction, learning experience and joy. Medical and engineering is an elite option for anyone but in today’s competitive world, doing something out of the box is more profitable than just imitating the crowd. Fashion, textiles and knitting industries are a notable career option. Textile, apparel and knitting industries are much more than just making fabric. They offer vast career opportunities for an individual to explore as clothing being one of the three major basic needs of human. Opportunities in textiles and knitting are not only limited to a particular country or a textile cluster, but it is a booming field with a lot of openings in the global market. There are so many opportunities in the fibre, yarn or fabric development. Similarly, a lot more opportunities for engineers in textile machineries, technicians, labour, and computer and design experts too. Textile is the second largest source of employment after agriculture providing employment to more than 20 million people.

Let us know some part of Knitting Industry

A process in which a single yarn is processed, by hand or by machine, to form a fabric is called Knitting. In other words, Knitting is the process of making a textile by connecting loops or stitches of one continuous thread using large needles. Knitwear is the new trend in the Fashion Industry even abroad. The handmade knitting garments, though they are sold internationally at higher price as it takes a lot of time of the crafter/weaver to design a final product where at the same time, mass-produced machine-made garments at factory are available at comparatively lower price. Knitwear Design course with the help of modern machinery and technology emphasises in pattern making, stitching, making illustrations, knitting, yarn making, etc. It also includes study related to trend analysis, forecasting, merchandising, marketing, etc. Knitwear Design programme is designed to create professionals equipped to handle the challenges in the Knitting Industry.

Required Skills

An individual needs a certain set of skills and interest to pursue a successful career in any field. Knitting needs artistic ability, interest in fashion trends, knowledge about market demands, observation approach, understanding consumer requirement, research and analysis, practical design skills (manual/CAD) and detailed study of textiles.

Courses

Several Universities and Colleges offer a variety of courses like Certificate Program (1 year), Diploma (3 years), Bachelor of Design (4 years) and Master of Design (2 years) which are all available in India as well as abroad.

Indian Colleges offering Courses in Knitwear

Knitting is a booming branch of textiles that is generating employment and creating fashion since decades. There are few esteemed Indian colleges and universities that offer good courses in knitwear. 1. National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) 2. Unitedworld Institute of Design (UID) 3. Madras Institute of Fashion Technology (MFT) 4. Parul University 5. J D Birla Institute (JDBI) 6. Government Institute of Textile Chemistry and Knitting Technology, Ludhiana

Career Opportunities and Average Salary per Annum in Knitwear Design

Though India is one of the leading nations in the textile production sector, the average income an individual re-

ceives is much less than the average income of an individual doing the same job in either the USA or UK. Studies suggest that the lack of technical skills, education and inexpensive lifestyle in India can be the cause for the same. Below are the graphs (Source: https://www. payscale.com/) that represent the average salaries of an individual pursuing their career in apparel industry through a particular job.

Figure 1: Graphical representation of average income of an individual for a particular job in textile industry in India, UK and USA in Indian Rupees (INR) In the graphical representations above, we notice that the salary given to a textile person is very less than the annual income of the person doing that same job in the USA and UK.

Few top Colleges among the World who offer Short/Long term courses in Knitwear

1. London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK 2. Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London,

UK

3. Royal College of Art, UK 4. Parsons, The New School for Design, USA 5. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA 6. Istituto Marangoni, Italy 7. Politecnico di Milano, Italy 8. Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, France 9. ESMOD (l'Ecole Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode), France 10. Bunka Fashion College, Japan References

1. Top 12 Fashion Capitals of The World 2021 | WOW

Travel

2. https://www.payscale.com/ 3. QS World University Rankings for Art & Design 2021

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