COVER STORY
23
INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES IN KNIT PRODUCTION SHIVANI THATTEKAR PG Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design, SNDT University, Juhu
I
NTRODUCTION
Knitting is a technique for spinning wool to create a cloth or fabric that is used in a variety of garments. Knitting may be performed with either a hand or a keyboard. Stitches are yarn loops in a row, either flat or in the circle, created by knitting (tubular). For every given time, the knitting needle normally has a lot of working stitches. Knitted fabric is made up of a series of linked loops that weave in and out of the next and previous line. Every new loop is pulled through one or more loops from the previous row and put on the gaining needle as each row is created, allowing the loops from the previous row to be pulled off the other needle without unravelling. Knitted fabrics with diverse properties, such as colour, density, thickness, heat retention, water resistance, and integrity, are made possible by variations in yarn (varying in fibre content, weight, uniformity, and twist), needle size, and stitch type. A swatch is a small piece of knitted yarn. Knitting is a method for creating a two-dimensional garment from a one-dimensional yarn or thread, similar to weaving. Threads in weaving are often straight and run parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft threads) (weft threads). Knitted fabrics, on the other hand, follow a meandering direction (a course), creating symmetric loops (also known as bights) symmetrically above and below the yarn's mean path. Knit fabrics have much greater elasticity than woven fabrics because of these meandering loops and can quickly be extended in various directions. Knitted garments can extend up to 500 percent
depending on the fabric and knitting pattern. Knitting was made for fabrics that needed to be elastic or flex in reaction to the wearer's gestures, such as socks and hosiery. Woven garments, on the other hand, stretch primarily along one of a connected pair of directions that run approximately diagonally between the warp and the weft, thus contracting in the other direction (stretching and contracting with the bias), and are not very elastic unless they are woven from stretchable fibre like spandex. Knitted garments are also more form-fitting than woven garments because their elasticity helps them to contour to the body's shape more closely; most woven garments, on the other hand, only have sewn darts, flares, gussets, and gores, which reduce the elasticity of the woven fabric even more. Short rows or raising or decreasing the number of stitches can be used to add extra curvature to knitted garments without seams, as in the heel of a sock; the effect of darts, flares, and other details can be achieved with short rows or by increasing or decreasing the number of stitches. Weaving thread is typically much finer than spinning yarn, resulting in a knitted fabric with more bulk and less drape than a woven fabric. Knitting has seen a revival in popularity in recent years,
with a variety of approaches emerging, ranging from innovative international runway fashions to the use of knitting in interiors in the form of light shades, cushions, floor coverings, chairs, and blinds, all focused on the versatility of stitch structure. Knitting has also been used by conceptual artists to produce projects of all sizes, ranging from largescale public sculptures to miniatures and wearable art, all of which question our preconceptions of the craft. The Internet and the development of a virtual group of knitters who subscribe to the many prominent and well-established blogs, online journals, and magazines have aided and encouraged knitting's increased popularity. Many Internet bloggers and photo bloggers post photos of their work on a regular basis, provide links to other websites, and actively encourage readers to participate in discussion forums. Designsing Knit designers are fabric designers, and yarn selection is critical to the fabric creation process. This chapter discusses yarn variety, working with colour and texture, and describing the different types of yarn available, including natural, synthetic, and hybrid yarns, as well as specialty yarns. Knitted stitches all create a textured
MARCH 2021
