GENERATION Z CAPSULE COLLECTION URBAN LUXURY - MIX, STIR, UNITE By: TAM PHAM BA FASHION HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
DESIGN CONCEPT Generation Z (Gen Z) is the collection that I design for the young and urban customer who are willing to spend money on the unique garments. Inspired by Generation Z, the collection will tackle the latest trend in the Fashion industry: ‘Sustainability’ by using 50% of recycles materials. Throughout the designing process, the theme ‘Urban-Luxury – Mix, Stir, and Unite’ will be featured through details, textures and finishing. The collection is inspired by Generation Z - the new generation after Millennial. They are teenagers now but they will soon replace Millennial to become the main consumers in Fashion industry. According to the latest researches, Gen-Z are more opened, more attached to technology, more demanding in term of fashion and more caring. They are well aware of sustainability and ethicality in fashion. Therefore, I want to create a collection that is sustainable, functional and original in order to respond to Gen Z identity. To tackle sustainable, I will recycle a second hand leather jacket to make the final outfits. Leather is a luxury material but it is avoided in the industry because of the cruelty in making process. However, there are still a lot of Leather garments which end up in land field causing problem for environment. By recycling leather material, I will still have a luxury material to work with and also help to protect environment. Using a deconstructed garment as a material is the real challenge for me in term of design and making because the design process will be dictated by the already made details and garment’s parts. To solve this problem, I will make a careful plan of how the second hand leather will be used in each garment. It is also a challenge to choose the right fabrics to be mixed and united with old leather texture to create a fresh, urban and youthful feel. As an ambitious designer, I will also push my pattern making skill by making the pattern for the recycling parts of my garments. This collection will represent my design aesthetic and also contains my message to the next generation that fashion industry is ready to welcome them.
MIX
STIR URBAN
LUXURY
UNITE
RESEARCH The project requires a deep research about fabrics and materials to inspire a collection for the young and urban customer who are willing to spend money on unique garments. In order to respond to these requirements, I have spent a lot of time going to fabric shops in London to do research about fabric and fastening. I have been to Walthamstow market, Brixton market, Lewisham market, Tottenham Hale clearance fabric store and Art and Sewing and craft superstore at Tooting Bec. I also went to other luxury stores such as: Dover Street Market, Selfridges, Liberty, and McCuloch&Wallis to research about trends and garment’s finishing at high-end market level. I have found much inspiration from Dover Street Market. There were a lot of fabric and texture mixtures and raw edge featured on the garments. The finishing of the garment looks simple but requires a lot of skill and technique to achieve the minimalist look. After that, I went to high street brands to compare the differences between high-end fashion and high street fashion. I have been to COS, Topshop, and Zara. Topshop is doing metallic trend which features many shiny details on shoes and jacket. I find Topshop very urban and trendy. In the meantime, COS is less trendy than Topshop but their style are shapeless and their garments always have interesting details and finishing. Zara is the trendiest of all because of their ability to produce quickly. I also have been to 'The VULGAR' exhibition and TATE MODERN to find the inspirations for my project. I have found many interesting objects at the museum but the most inspirational object of all is the' art for other people' by Richard Deacon. The object has inspired me bout silhouette. At 'The VULGAR' exhibition, I was not allowed to take photos but I did many sketches of my research. The exhibition featured many iconic garments that are still trendy, urban and luxury.
CUSTOMER PROFILE Name : Bella James Age: 31 From: London, England. Occupation: Fashion blogger, Stylist. Interest in: culture, fashion, food, travelling and kick boxing. Pet: A Chihuahua named Akon. Music taste : Linkin Park, 2Cellos and Adelle. Favourite places: Queen Theatre, Japanese restaurant, Steak house. Favourite events : new collection party at Grace&Mabel, Roof top party at Uniqlo,‌ Zodiac sign: Leo
Name: Imaan Hammam Age: 20 From: Dutch Occupation: Profesional model, student. Interest in: Swimming, reading, travelling. Music taste : Linkin Park, 2Cellos and Adelle. Favourite places: Pharell Williams, Kenya West Favourite events : Fashion week, after show party. Zodiac sign: Libra FAvourite fashion brands: G
MARKET ANALYSIS BRAND: B. UNIQUE COLLECTION: GENERATION- Z
Generation Z is a fresh and urban collection which targets to high end market place. In order to compete with other competitors such as Stella McCartney and Alexander Wang, the collection will focus on customising luxury fabric and using different pattern making methods to create innovative details. Inspired by the latest generation who are more caring for environment, the collection will also tackle sustainability by recreating a deconstructed leather jacket. Aiming at young and urban customers who are at their 20s and 30s, the collection will feature comfortable designs with functional details such as different type of pockets, cross front strap and exaggerate sleeve jacket
COMPETITORS COMPETITORS HIGH END LEVEL
LOWER MARKET LEVEL
AGE INCOME EDUCATION
EMPLOYMENT ETHNIC
PRICE RANGE TABLE PRIMARY MARKET STELLA MC.CARTNEY
MAC JACOB
TOP
£150 - £850
£50 - £540
TROUSER
£290 - £950
SKIRT
GENERATION - Z COLLECTION
SECONDARY MARKET TOPSHOP
ZARA
£99 - £600
£20 - £120
£20 - £50
£120 - £400
£100 - £500
£40 - £150
£25 - £65
£430 - £1300
£150 - £1100
£130 - £1000
£45 - £120
£50 - £120
DRESS
£320 - £2135
£189 - £1800
£150 - £499
£24 - £150
£45 - £99
JACKET/COAT
£470 - £1415
£230 -£3800
£200 - £1500
£50 - £205
£55 - £150
DEMOGRAPHICS, PSYCHOGHRAPHICS AND SOCIOGRAPHIC OF MARKET DEMOGRAPHICS
T STATUS
20 - 39 > 30.000£ DEGREE, MASTER,...
SOCIOGRAPHICS
BLOGGER, BUSINESS OWNER, IT ENGINEER,...
PERSONAL PASSION PAINTING, WRITTING, SOCIAL MEDIA FRIENDS CELEBRITIES, ARTISTS, SOCIAL NETWORK’S FRIENDS
ASIAN, EUROPEON, AFRICAN,...
PERSONAL NEEDS
PSYCHOGRAPHICS PERSONALITY
CONFIDENT, OPEN-MINDED
ATTITUDES
OPEN-MINDED
INTERESTS
TRAVELLING, READING AND PLAYING SPORT.
INTERNET, VITAMIN SUPLEMENT, BEAUTY TREATMENT,
MOOD
COLOUR
SILHOUETTE
FABRIC / TEXTURE
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Content: Cotton denim
Content: Cotton twill
Content: Polyethylene
Content: Synthetic
Width: 150cm
Width: 150cm
Width: 150cm
Content: Cotton ( stretch)
Width: 150cm
Content: Leather (From a Second hand leather jacket)
Price: £7.50/m
Price: £3.50/m
Price: £5/m
Price: £1/m
Price: Free
From: Lewisham market From: Lewisham market From: Brixton market For: Trouser and skirt
For: Collar facing
For: Jackets, top
Width: 150cm Price: £3/m
From: Walthamstow From: Lewisham market market For: Top
For: Jacket lining
From: Donated source For: Jackets, Details
DETAILS
TREND: SUSTAINABLE FASHION
TREND: THE 80S
DEVELOPMENT
PROCESS AND ANALYSIS
DESIGNER: TAM PHAM MODEL: DARDANA D ETCHIKE PHOTOGRAPHER: GIACOMO GIANNELLI