FASHION PORTFOLIO BY TAM PHAM BA FASHION HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
FASHION THEORY INTO MANUFACTURE ME, MYSELF and I STUDENT: TAMPHAM BA FASHION HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
DESIGN CONCEPT COLLECTION NAME:
‘ FREEWILL’ BY: TAM PHAM
I named my collection as ‘FREEWILL’ because of my desire to be free, to escape and to create. For the S/S17 season, my chosen trend is ‘STRIPE’ with big dark colour lines playing around on human body. The big dark lines remind me of life’s pressures, responsibilities and my identity which I am trying hard to explore. On the other hand, my chosen fabrics are soft, cotton based; very light weight which will enable me to create relaxed, loose fit and gentle shapes. For ‘FREEWILL’ collection, a part of my design’s inspirations come from the visits to V&A museum, British Museum, Dover Street Market and my summer research, the other part comes from my culture and the handcraft techniques that Vietnamese people have developed. The hand-made fabric and weaving bamboo basket are the objects that inspire me on garment making. By mixing fabrics together in different ways and at different positions on a stand, I come to understand my fabrics and be able to make the best possible shapes out of them. ‘FREEWILL’ collection will also tackle sustainable issues by using the fabrics which are friendly to the environment. No fur or any other part of animals’ body will be used to create the garments. By combining different shades of blue with black, white and mustard, ‘FREEWILL’ will be a gentle touch for women during the hot season. ‘FREEWILL’ will also be a perfect choice for the women who love to explore the beauty of culture and nature, who understand herself and always find the way to appreciate what life throw at her. To conclude, ‘FREEWILL’ is a part of my journey to find my identity as a designer. On that journey, I look back at my origin, research about what is happening around me and in the industry and finally challenge my ability in designing and garment making. Will all of the excitements, I look forward to bringing ‘FREEWILL’ to life.
CUSTOMER PROFILE
Name: Christina Viera Age:55 Occupation: fashion editor. Country: France Hobbies: playing with pet, styling, pattying. Friend : Sonia Rykiel, Anna Wintour Favourite brand : Comme des Garcons, Viktor&Rolf. Favourite products: Comme des Garcons' coat, Viktor & Rolf ’s shirt and No5 Coco Chanel perfume. About her: She love styling, she can transform a pair of short to a unique jacket. Everything looks good on her and she enjoys showing off her creativity with styling. She is ambitious with accessories. She doesn’t mind to put on the brightest colour. in fact, she looks fantastic in colourful garments. She is definitely not a person who follow the trends. She is the one who create and define ‘trend’. She is one of those who have Comme des Garcons’ spirit, unique and forever.
Name:Mary Winslet Occupation:Journalist Age:40 Country: England
Hobbies: shopping, styling, reading and spa
Favourite brand: Chanel, Dior, Come des Garcons and Hermes.
Favourite products: Hermes Birkin bag, Comme des Garcons’ jacket and Dior’s perfume.
About her: She is a independent and successful woman. She enjoy her privacy. Most of her friends are celebrities. She love fashion shows and she always have a sit at front row. She is a workaholic and she enjoys her success.
COLOUR
MOOD
SILHOUETTE
FABRIC
TREND
SAMPLE
DESIGNER: TAM PHAM MODEL: DARDANA D ETCHIKE PHOTOGRAPHER: GIACOMO GIANNELLI
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT DIVERSITY FASHION DESIGN FOR A COMERCIAL CONTEXT By: TAM PHAM BA FASHION HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT AUTUMN / WINTER 18
In order to tackle 'Diversity' matter in fashion, from my identity as a new, young designer who has experience living with people who have disabilities, I want to create the designs which will fit a variety of clients, including people who have lost arms or feet. I want to send a clear message through my collection, to tell women around the world that regardless of the difficulties in life and the losing parts in our body and soul, we all deserve love and being love. ‘Love yourself, embrace your 'imperfections' and tell yourself that you are perfectly imperfect'. That is what I want to say through my designs. At Tate Modern, the untitled artwork by Kelley Walker has inspired me to explore the distortion of the circle on the body. I then used Circle Distortion as a Silhouette in this collection. The circle is considered a perfect shape. It does not have any corners and it is always a favourite shape for perfectionists. Therefore, the distortion of the circle will connect with imperfection which I want to show in my designs. I will manipulate the circles, make them become lines, simplify, multiply them and then I will have an endless option of shape. To go with the silhouette, I choose cotton based fabrics because they are easy to sew, very flexible and comfortable. To make my designs work for people with disabilities, I avoid using fabrics that contain nylon because it will cause itchiness to their skin, especially the part at the lost arm or foot. I use three types of fabric; two of them are stretchy to allow free movement and easy access. The fabrics that I choose also are inspired by the latest sportswear trends which use jersey and breathable fabric.
n my final outfit, I have carefully chosen the details that will work for people with restricted movement. I use magnetic fastening, cross jet pocket with the deep pocket bag, curve seem to represent the circle distortions and uneven sleeve and collar to represent the uneven body. The collection is designed and made in black because the colour is suitable for every skin type, age group, and body shape. It is also the most functional colour because it is easy to care and it can go with every styles and type of garment. My final outfit is also inspired by my mother who has lost her right arm nearly 20 years ago. Through her life, I have witnessed the struggle that disables people have to deal with. With my mother in mind, I have created an outfit that is not only suitable to disable people but also contain the interesting details to attract all other customers. To sum up, I want to celebrate the diversity in fashion by creating a collection that works for a variety group of customer. I hope that I will have the chance to develop this project further to become a business that will benefit disable community and also contributes to the diversity matter in fashion.
CUSTOMER PROFILE Name: Maria May From: London Age: 31 Occupation: Business owner Hobbies: Shopping, going to cinemas and theatres. Favourite places: Queen theatre, V&A museum. Favourite events: London fashion week, Adele concert. Music taste: Adele, 2Cellos. Food: Allergic to nuts, love Sushi and pizza. Favourite Fashion brands: Channel, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney. Favourite fashion items: Vivienne Westwood Jacket and Channel bag.
Name: Kayla James Age: 20 From: Brighton, England. Occupation: Fashion Technology Student , Part time Fashion studio assistant. Hobbies: Dancing, travelling and making clothes. Favourite places: Brighton Beach, Barbican centre in London and Brick Lane market. Music Taste: Taylor Swift and Fifth Harmony. Favourite Fashion brand: Acne
MARKET REPORT
BRAND: B.Unique COLLECTION: ‘PERFECTLY IMPERFECT COMPETITORS HIGH END LEVEL
LOWER MARKET LEVEL
PRICE RANGE HIGH END LEVEL STELLA MC CARTNEY YOHJI YAMAMOTO
JUNYA WATANABE
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT COLLECTION
Top
£585 - £935
£50 - £650
£135 - £1170
£50 - £200
TROUSER JACKET SKIRT DRESS
£365 - £560 £645 - £1995 £250 - £615 £530 - £1850
£150 - £783 £112 - £2000 £126 - £1128 £164 - £1195
£370 - £837 £900 - £2195 £400 - £1470 £785 - £1695
£100 - £300 £115 - £500 £125 – £750 £150 - £750
LOWER MARKET LEVEL
Top TROUSER JACKET SKIRT DRESS
TOPSHOP
COS
JAEGER
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT COLLECTION
£30 - £65 £25 - £150 £50 - £500 £50 - £150 £25 - £300
£50 - £150 £59- £99 £125 - £225 £49 - £112 £59 - £200
£135 - £1170 £370 - £837 £119 - £299 £125 - £162 £90- £227
£50 - £200 £100 - £300 £115 - £500 £125 - £750 £150 - £750
MARKET REPORT DEMOGRAPHICS, PSYCHOGHRAPHICS AND SOCIOGRAPHIC OF MARKET DEMOGRAPHICS
AGE
25-55
INCOME
> 25.000£
EDUCATION
DEGREE, MASTER,...
EMPLOYMENT STATUS
DESIGNER, BUSINESS WOMEN, ENGINEER,...
ETHNIC
ASIAN, EUROPEON, AFRICAN,...
ECONOMIC CLASS
> MIDDLE CLASS
SOCIOGRAPHICS
PSYCHOGRAPHICS PERSONALITY
CONFIDENT, MOTIVATED BELIEVER
ATTITUDES
OPEN-MINDED
INTERESTS
STYLING, JYM, READING
LIFESTYLES
HEALTHY LIFESTYLE
PERSONAL PASSION
FASHION, WRITTING,...
FRIENDS
CELEBRITIES, ARTISTS, BUSINESSMEN, DOCTORS, TEACHERS
PERSONAL NEEDS
VITAMIN SUPLEMENT, BEAUTY TREATMENT, WOMEN GROUP,...
Stella McCartney
Yohji Yamamoto
Junya Watanabe
B.Unique Perfectly Imperfect
Target customers
New generation of women who care for environment
Modern women who are strong, independent and Successful
Young generation who are interested in technology
Women age from 25 to 50 year old who are in different body shape, including people with restricted movement
Signature style
- sharp tailoring - sexy femininity - Using natural material
- Black colour - Tailoring techniques - Comfortable fabric - Genderless silhouette.
- Traditional materials -innovative technology -deconstruction
- Tailoring technique - Functional and unique details - Skin friendly and sport inspired fabric
Sustainable/ ethical policy
- Sustainable, eco- friendly ethos. - Avoid using fur and other animal body parts.
Have no plan recently
Have no plan recently
- Natural material - Eco- friendly ethos.
Promotion
- Fashion week - Collaborate with Adidas - Design for the Olympic Summer Games in 2012 - magazine - Online store
- Fashion week - Collaborate with Adidas - Exhibition - Magazine - Online store
- Social media - Fashion week - Collaborate with many com- - Collaborate with young panies such as Nike, Levis and designers. Fred Perry
Plans for future
Expand to more country, dis- Expand the fashion range to play in more stores and invest accessories more on sustainability and ethicality in fashion.
More collaborations
-Open the first store in London
COMPETITOR
TOPSHOP
COS
JAEGER
B.UNIQUE ‘Perfectly Imperfect’
Target customers
- 16-30 year old Young and modern women - Savvy shopper who love minimalist and - Young audience who want to shapeless style. look mature - Independent
Elegant, professional woman who love classic style and quality clothing.
Women age from 25 to 50 year old who are in different body shape and skin colour, including people with restricted movement
Signature style
Young and modern women - 16-30 year old - Savvy shopper who love minimalist and - Young audience who want to shapeless style. look mature - Independent
Elegant, professional woman who love classic style and quality clothing.
Women age from 25 to 50 year old who are in different body shape and skin colour, including people with restricted movement
Sustainable/ ethical policy
Committed to the Sustainable COS is on its way towards Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) sustainability.
Have no plan recently
- Natural material - Eco- friendly ethos.
Promotion
- Fashion week - Online store - Charity events
- website and a biannual printed publication
- Website - Sale season
- Social media - competition
Plans for future
Approaching ‘ See now, buy now’ fashion.
Open new stores in LA, Tokyo, New York, Melbourne and Seoul.
Focus more on new and younger customers
Open the first store in London.
COMPETITOR
MOOD
DETAIL
TREND: INFUSION
TEXTURE
DESIGNER: TAM PHAM MODEL: DARDANA D ETCHIKE PHOTOGRAPHER: GIACOMO GIANNELLI
FASHION DESIGN AND MAKE MAKE IT BETTER GRACE & MABLE STUDENT: TAMPHAM BA FASHION
HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
DESIGN CONCEPT My collection for INTROPIA, A/W17 season will be inspired by Denim jacket’s details, such as: collar and sleeve. I want to explore all of the possibilities of design and making process by exaggerate those details and put them on different positions in the body. They can then become a Collar skirt, a sleeve collar scarf or an oversize top with many pocket flaps at the front... The main colour that I chose for A/W17 season is red which is supported by other colours like dark brown, dark green and black. After visiting Walthamstow market and other fabric stores, I have chosen fabrics for my collection. One of them is plastic based red fabric which can easily be fold, cut or trim in order to make interesting shapes and forms. I also have done some researches about sustainable issues and decided to tackle Animal Welfare Issue. In my collection, I will not use any animal raw materials such as fur and leather. The techniques that I will challenge myself in this project are embroidery and patchwork. Embroidery is one of the biggest trends in the S/S16 season. For A/W17 season, I will experiment modern hand embroidery technique and patch work on thick materials like denim and leather. In my collection for INTROPIA, I will focus on details and function. My designs will not just be interesting but also functional and still carry on the INTROPIA’s aesthetic.
DETAIL
MARKET ANALYSIS H&M
French Connection
Grace & Mabel
Intropia
Price
6.49£-199£
22£ - 950£
50£ - 200£
74.70£ - 174£
Place
Worldwide
Worldwide
Bristol, Bath
Would wide
Promotion
- Promoted by young celebrities - Collaboration with well-known designer - Social media
- FC Blog - Fashion week
- Sale promotion - Social media
-Collaboration with young and inspired artists -Sale promotion. -Intropia RSC
- Cheap fabric Product Development and labour
- good quality fabric. - Well-designed fashionable clothing
- Individually handpicked products. - High quality fabric - Interesting detail.
- High quality fabric. - Well designed garments
Event
- Grazia summer party - Canthelpmyselfie event
- New shop opening - Night shop evening
- Birchbox subscriber event - Fashion show lunch at La Sala event.
- Simple design - Basic colour( black, white, grey) - Basic details and textures. - Recycle week - Pre-launch event
Grace & Mabel and Intropia in comparison with others brands.
MOOD
COLOUR
SILHOUETTE
TREND
FABRIC
THE HISTORY OF DENIM
INSPIRATIONS
DESIGNER: TAM PHAM MODEL: DARDANA D ETCHIKE PHOTOGRAPHER: GIACOMO GIANNELLI
GENERATION Z CAPSULE COLLECTION URBAN LUXURY - MIX, STIR, UNITE By: TAM PHAM BA FASHION HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
DESIGN CONCEPT Generation Z (Gen Z) is the collection that I design for the young and urban customer who are willing to spend money on the unique garments. Inspired by Generation Z, the collection will tackle the latest trend in the Fashion industry: ‘Sustainability’ by using 50% of recycles materials. Throughout the designing process, the theme ‘Urban-Luxury – Mix, Stir, and Unite’ will be featured through details, textures and finishing. The collection is inspired by Generation Z - the new generation after Millennial. They are teenagers now but they will soon replace Millennial to become the main consumers in Fashion industry. According to the latest researches, Gen-Z are more opened, more attached to technology, more demanding in term of fashion and more caring. They are well aware of sustainability and ethicality in fashion. Therefore, I want to create a collection that is sustainable, functional and original in order to respond to Gen Z identity. To tackle sustainable, I will recycle a second hand leather jacket to make the final outfits. Leather is a luxury material but it is avoided in the industry because of the cruelty in making process. However, there are still a lot of Leather garments which end up in land field causing problem for environment. By recycling leather material, I will still have a luxury material to work with and also help to protect environment. Using a deconstructed garment as a material is the real challenge for me in term of design and making because the design process will be dictated by the already made details and garment’s parts. To solve this problem, I will make a careful plan of how the second hand leather will be used in each garment. It is also a challenge to choose the right fabrics to be mixed and united with old leather texture to create a fresh, urban and youthful feel. As an ambitious designer, I will also push my pattern making skill by making the pattern for the recycling parts of my garments. This collection will represent my design aesthetic and also contains my message to the next generation that fashion industry is ready to welcome them.
MIX
STIR URBAN
LUXURY
UNITE
RESEARCH The project requires a deep research about fabrics and materials to inspire a collection for the young and urban customer who are willing to spend money on unique garments. In order to respond to these requirements, I have spent a lot of time going to fabric shops in London to do research about fabric and fastening. I have been to Walthamstow market, Brixton market, Lewisham market, Tottenham Hale clearance fabric store and Art and Sewing and craft superstore at Tooting Bec. I also went to other luxury stores such as: Dover Street Market, Selfridges, Liberty, and McCuloch&Wallis to research about trends and garment’s finishing at high-end market level. I have found much inspiration from Dover Street Market. There were a lot of fabric and texture mixtures and raw edge featured on the garments. The finishing of the garment looks simple but requires a lot of skill and technique to achieve the minimalist look. After that, I went to high street brands to compare the differences between high-end fashion and high street fashion. I have been to COS, Topshop, and Zara. Topshop is doing metallic trend which features many shiny details on shoes and jacket. I find Topshop very urban and trendy. In the meantime, COS is less trendy than Topshop but their style are shapeless and their garments always have interesting details and finishing. Zara is the trendiest of all because of their ability to produce quickly. I also have been to 'The VULGAR' exhibition and TATE MODERN to find the inspirations for my project. I have found many interesting objects at the museum but the most inspirational object of all is the' art for other people' by Richard Deacon. The object has inspired me bout silhouette. At 'The VULGAR' exhibition, I was not allowed to take photos but I did many sketches of my research. The exhibition featured many iconic garments that are still trendy, urban and luxury.
CUSTOMER PROFILE Name : Bella James Age: 31 From: London, England. Occupation: Fashion blogger, Stylist. Interest in: culture, fashion, food, travelling and kick boxing. Pet: A Chihuahua named Akon. Music taste : Linkin Park, 2Cellos and Adelle. Favourite places: Queen Theatre, Japanese restaurant, Steak house. Favourite events : new collection party at Grace&Mabel, Roof top party at Uniqlo,‌ Zodiac sign: Leo
Name: Imaan Hammam Age: 20 From: Dutch Occupation: Profesional model, student. Interest in: Swimming, reading, travelling. Music taste : Linkin Park, 2Cellos and Adelle. Favourite places: Pharell Williams, Kenya West Favourite events : Fashion week, after show party. Zodiac sign: Libra FAvourite fashion brands: G
MARKET ANALYSIS BRAND: B. UNIQUE COLLECTION: GENERATION- Z
Generation Z is a fresh and urban collection which targets to high end market place. In order to compete with other competitors such as Stella McCartney and Alexander Wang, the collection will focus on customising luxury fabric and using different pattern making methods to create innovative details. Inspired by the latest generation who are more caring for environment, the collection will also tackle sustainability by recreating a deconstructed leather jacket. Aiming at young and urban customers who are at their 20s and 30s, the collection will feature comfortable designs with functional details such as different type of pockets, cross front strap and exaggerate sleeve jacket
COMPETITORS COMPETITORS HIGH END LEVEL
LOWER MARKET LEVEL
AGE INCOME EDUCATION
EMPLOYMENT ETHNIC
PRICE RANGE TABLE PRIMARY MARKET STELLA MC.CARTNEY
MAC JACOB
TOP
£150 - £850
£50 - £540
TROUSER
£290 - £950
SKIRT
GENERATION - Z COLLECTION
SECONDARY MARKET TOPSHOP
ZARA
£99 - £600
£20 - £120
£20 - £50
£120 - £400
£100 - £500
£40 - £150
£25 - £65
£430 - £1300
£150 - £1100
£130 - £1000
£45 - £120
£50 - £120
DRESS
£320 - £2135
£189 - £1800
£150 - £499
£24 - £150
£45 - £99
JACKET/COAT
£470 - £1415
£230 -£3800
£200 - £1500
£50 - £205
£55 - £150
DEMOGRAPHICS, PSYCHOGHRAPHICS AND SOCIOGRAPHIC OF MARKET DEMOGRAPHICS
T STATUS
20 - 39 > 30.000£ DEGREE, MASTER,...
SOCIOGRAPHICS
BLOGGER, BUSINESS OWNER, IT ENGINEER,...
PERSONAL PASSION PAINTING, WRITTING, SOCIAL MEDIA FRIENDS CELEBRITIES, ARTISTS, SOCIAL NETWORK’S FRIENDS
ASIAN, EUROPEON, AFRICAN,...
PERSONAL NEEDS
PSYCHOGRAPHICS PERSONALITY
CONFIDENT, OPEN-MINDED
ATTITUDES
OPEN-MINDED
INTERESTS
TRAVELLING, READING AND PLAYING SPORT.
INTERNET, VITAMIN SUPLEMENT, BEAUTY TREATMENT,
MOOD
COLOUR
SILHOUETTE
FABRIC / TEXTURE
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Date: 21/1/17
Content: Cotton denim
Content: Cotton twill
Content: Polyethylene
Content: Synthetic
Width: 150cm
Width: 150cm
Width: 150cm
Content: Cotton ( stretch)
Width: 150cm
Content: Leather (From a Second hand leather jacket)
Price: £7.50/m
Price: £3.50/m
Price: £5/m
Price: £1/m
Price: Free
From: Lewisham market From: Lewisham market From: Brixton market For: Trouser and skirt
For: Collar facing
For: Jackets, top
Width: 150cm Price: £3/m
From: Walthamstow From: Lewisham market market For: Top
For: Jacket lining
From: Donated source For: Jackets, Details
DETAILS
TREND: SUSTAINABLE FASHION
TREND: THE 80S
DEVELOPMENT
DESIGNER: TAM PHAM MODEL: DARDANA D ETCHIKE PHOTOGRAPHER: GIACOMO GIANNELLI