PERFECTLY IMPERFECT DIVERSITY FASHION DESIGN FOR A COMERCIAL CONTEXT By: TAM PHAM BA FASHION HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT AUTUMN / WINTER 18
In order to tackle 'Diversity' matter in fashion, from my identity as a new, young designer who has experience living with people who have disabilities, I want to create the designs which will fit a variety of clients, including people who have lost arms or feet. I want to send a clear message through my collection, to tell women around the world that regardless of the difficulties in life and the losing parts in our body and soul, we all deserve love and being love. ‘Love yourself, embrace your 'imperfections' and tell yourself that you are perfectly imperfect'. That is what I want to say through my designs. At Tate Modern, the untitled artwork by Kelley Walker has inspired me to explore the distortion of the circle on the body. I then used Circle Distortion as a Silhouette in this collection. The circle is considered a perfect shape. It does not have any corners and it is always a favourite shape for perfectionists. Therefore, the distortion of the circle will connect with imperfection which I want to show in my designs. I will manipulate the circles, make them become lines, simplify, multiply them and then I will have an endless option of shape. To go with the silhouette, I choose cotton based fabrics because they are easy to sew, very flexible and comfortable. To make my designs work for people with disabilities, I avoid using fabrics that contain nylon because it will cause itchiness to their skin, especially the part at the lost arm or foot. I use three types of fabric; two of them are stretchy to allow free movement and easy access. The fabrics that I choose also are inspired by the latest sportswear trends which use jersey and breathable fabric.
n my final outfit, I have carefully chosen the details that will work for people with restricted movement. I use magnetic fastening, cross jet pocket with the deep pocket bag, curve seem to represent the circle distortions and uneven sleeve and collar to represent the uneven body. The collection is designed and made in black because the colour is suitable for every skin type, age group, and body shape. It is also the most functional colour because it is easy to care and it can go with every styles and type of garment. My final outfit is also inspired by my mother who has lost her right arm nearly 20 years ago. Through her life, I have witnessed the struggle that disables people have to deal with. With my mother in mind, I have created an outfit that is not only suitable to disable people but also contain the interesting details to attract all other customers. To sum up, I want to celebrate the diversity in fashion by creating a collection that works for a variety group of customer. I hope that I will have the chance to develop this project further to become a business that will benefit disable community and also contributes to the diversity matter in fashion.
CUSTOMER PROFILE Name: Maria May From: London Age: 31 Occupation: Business owner Hobbies: Shopping, going to cinemas and theatres. Favourite places: Queen theatre, V&A museum. Favourite events: London fashion week, Adele concert. Music taste: Adele, 2Cellos. Food: Allergic to nuts, love Sushi and pizza. Favourite Fashion brands: Channel, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney. Favourite fashion items: Vivienne Westwood Jacket and Channel bag.
Name: Kayla James Age: 20 From: Brighton, England. Occupation: Fashion Technology Student , Part time Fashion studio assistant. Hobbies: Dancing, travelling and making clothes. Favourite places: Brighton Beach, Barbican centre in London and Brick Lane market. Music Taste: Taylor Swift and Fifth Harmony. Favourite Fashion brand: Acne
MARKET REPORT
BRAND: B.Unique COLLECTION: ‘PERFECTLY IMPERFECT COMPETITORS HIGH END LEVEL
LOWER MARKET LEVEL
PRICE RANGE HIGH END LEVEL STELLA MC CARTNEY YOHJI YAMAMOTO
JUNYA WATANABE
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT COLLECTION
Top
£585 - £935
£50 - £650
£135 - £1170
£50 - £200
TROUSER JACKET SKIRT DRESS
£365 - £560 £645 - £1995 £250 - £615 £530 - £1850
£150 - £783 £112 - £2000 £126 - £1128 £164 - £1195
£370 - £837 £900 - £2195 £400 - £1470 £785 - £1695
£100 - £300 £115 - £500 £125 – £750 £150 - £750
LOWER MARKET LEVEL TOPSHOP Top TROUSER JACKET SKIRT DRESS
£30 - £65 £25 - £150 £50 - £500 £50 - £150 £25 - £300
COS
JAEGER
PERFECTLY IMPERFECT COLLECTION
£50 - £150 £59- £99 £125 - £225 £49 - £112 £59 - £200
£135 - £1170 £370 - £837 £119 - £299 £125 - £162 £90- £227
£50 - £200 £100 - £300 £115 - £500 £125 - £750 £150 - £750
MARKET REPORT DEMOGRAPHICS, PSYCHOGHRAPHICS AND SOCIOGRAPHIC OF MARKET DEMOGRAPHICS
AGE
25-55
INCOME
> 25.000£
EDUCATION
DEGREE, MASTER,...
EMPLOYMENT STATUS
DESIGNER, BUSINESS WOMEN, ENGINEER,...
ETHNIC
ASIAN, EUROPEON, AFRICAN,...
ECONOMIC CLASS
> MIDDLE CLASS
SOCIOGRAPHICS
PSYCHOGRAPHICS PERSONALITY
CONFIDENT, MOTIVATED BELIEVER
ATTITUDES
OPEN-MINDED
INTERESTS
STYLING, JYM, READING
LIFESTYLES
HEALTHY LIFESTYLE
PERSONAL PASSION
FASHION, WRITTING,...
FRIENDS
CELEBRITIES, ARTISTS, BUSINESSMEN, DOCTORS, TEACHERS
PERSONAL NEEDS
VITAMIN SUPLEMENT, BEAUTY TREATMENT, WOMEN GROUP,...
Stella McCartney
Yohji Yamamoto
Junya Watanabe
B.Unique Perfectly Imperfect
Target customers
New generation of women who care for environment
Modern women who are strong, independent and Successful
Young generation who are interested in technology
Women age from 25 to 50 year old who are in different body shape, including people with restricted movement
Signature style
- sharp tailoring - sexy femininity - Using natural material
- Black colour - Tailoring techniques - Comfortable fabric - Genderless silhouette.
- Traditional materials -innovative technology -deconstruction
- Tailoring technique - Functional and unique details - Skin friendly and sport inspired fabric
Sustainable/ ethical policy
- Sustainable, eco- friendly ethos. - Avoid using fur and other animal body parts.
Have no plan recently
Have no plan recently
- Natural material - Eco- friendly ethos.
Promotion
- Fashion week - Collaborate with Adidas - Design for the Olympic Summer Games in 2012 - magazine - Online store
- Fashion week - Collaborate with Adidas - Exhibition - Magazine - Online store
- Social media - Fashion week - Collaborate with many com- - Collaborate with young panies such as Nike, Levis and designers. Fred Perry
Plans for future
Expand to more country, dis- Expand the fashion range to play in more stores and invest accessories more on sustainability and ethicality in fashion.
More collaborations
-Open the first store in London
COMPETITOR
TOPSHOP
COS
JAEGER
B.UNIQUE ‘Perfectly Imperfect’
Target customers
- 16-30 year old Young and modern women - Savvy shopper who love minimalist and - Young audience who want to shapeless style. look mature - Independent
Elegant, professional woman who love classic style and quality clothing.
Women age from 25 to 50 year old who are in different body shape and skin colour, including people with restricted movement
Signature style
Young and modern women - 16-30 year old - Savvy shopper who love minimalist and - Young audience who want to shapeless style. look mature - Independent
Elegant, professional woman who love classic style and quality clothing.
Women age from 25 to 50 year old who are in different body shape and skin colour, including people with restricted movement
Sustainable/ ethical policy
Committed to the Sustainable COS is on its way towards Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) sustainability.
Have no plan recently
- Natural material - Eco- friendly ethos.
Promotion
- Fashion week - Online store - Charity events
- website and a biannual printed publication
- Website - Sale season
- Social media - competition
Plans for future
Approaching ‘ See now, buy now’ fashion.
Open new stores in LA, Tokyo, New York, Melbourne and Seoul.
Focus more on new and younger customers
Open the first store in London.
COMPETITOR
MOOD
DETAIL
TREND: INFUSION
TEXTURE
DESIGNER: TAM PHAM MODEL: DARDANA D ETCHIKE PHOTOGRAPHER: GIACOMO GIANNELLI