The Cultured Traveller, October-November 2015 FIRST ANNIVERSARY EDITION Issue 7

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CONTENTS

HIGHLIGHTS

27INCREDIBLE ISTANBUL

Seasonal onal traveller, Alex Benasuli, explored the stimulating and historic capital of one of the greatest empires the world has ever known, to give us his insider tips about what to see and do in the exhilarating Turkish metropolis of Istanbul.

44 THE AIRLINE BLACKLIST

d to implement a uniform approach to a In a bid airline safety, since March 2016 the European Commission has drawn up a twice-yearly updated official blacklist of airlines deemed unsafe for flying. Read which airlines to board at your peril in Boarding Pass.

59 AUSTRALIA’S ARTISTIC MELTING POT Keen traveller and dedicated foodie, Gordon Hickey, discovered that the Australian coastal city of Melbourne is a veritable artistic melting pot and gastronomic heaven.

39 CITY SWEETNESS

Editor, r, Nicholas Chrisostomou, road ttested the duplex WOW Suite at W Istanbul, which juxtapositions designer accommodation within a historic building at the epicentre of one of the world’s most happening cities, with five star service and details by the dozen.

52 PAKISTAN’S BOHEMIAN SECOND CITY Intrepid id travel diva, Claudia Avila-Batchelor, takes us on a tour of the culturally & architecturally rich city of Lahore, Pakistan’s enticing and bohemian second city.

46 HOI AN HEAVEN

Deputy a luxe Vietnamese y Editor, Kalia Michaelides, visited vis beach resort, and left feeling pampered and revitalised after just a few days disconnected from the outside world.

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08 EDITOR’S LETTER

The Cultured Traveller made its début a year ago. Twelve months down the line, TCT is now published on two platforms, we have thousands of subscribers around the world, a team of energetic and talented writers contributes a constant stream of fascinating stories and plans are afoot to print the magazine. This is all thanks to our readers, so a hearty thanks for your support.

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11 NEWSFLASH

Our summary of seasonal happenings and global events taking place around the world in October and November 2015, including the 59th annual BFI London Film Festival, the Alba International White Truffle Fair in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, the Voodoo Music & Arts Experience in New Orleans and the Pushkar Camel Fair in Rajastan.

14 REST YOUR HEAD

Hotels featured in this issue: Malliouhana on Anguilla, Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, The Norman in Tel Aviv, Baccarat Hotel in New York, The Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, Casas Del XVI in Dominican Republic, Aman Tokyo, Chiltern Firehouse in London, Hotel Sahrai in Fez, Four Seasons at Walt Disney World Orlando, Park Hyatt Sanya Sunny Bay and the incredible Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge in Botswana.

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27 CITY FOCUS

Like New York and Bangkok, Istanbul beats with a unique, frenetic pulse, supported by a vibrant street culture of cafés, restaurants, markets, antique stores, art galleries and shopping districts. Seasoned traveller, Alex Benasuli, explored the stimulating and historic capital of two empires which spans one & a half millennia, to give us his insider tips about what to see and do in the exhilarating Turkish metropolis.

39 SUITE ENVY

W Istanbul effortlessly juxtapositions contemporary designer accommodation within a historic building at the epicentre of one of the world’s most happening cities, with five star service, style, fun and attention to detail. We road test the hotel’s duplex WOW Suite, fashioned by renowned Turkish designer, Mahmut Anlar.

44 BOARDING PASS

One would be forgiven for believing - in light of the multitude of high-profile airplane incidents splashed across the news lately - that getting on a plane now is more risky than before. But we can help ourselves as air travellers, by paying attention to the official blacklist of airlines deemed unsafe for flying, drawn up by the European Commission since 2006.

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06

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52

CONTENTS 46 46 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Vietnam is all about the contrast between the bustling chaos of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi where motorbikes rule the streets - and the country's beach retreats set on pristine stretches of golden sands lapped by the South China Sea. Deputy Editor, Kalia Michaelides, visited a luxe Vietnamese beach resort, and left feeling pampered and revitalised after just a short visit.

52 SPOTLIGHT

Whilst Islamabad is infinitely more cosmopolitan and developed, Pakistan’s second largest city, is exciting and enticing in a warm, bohemian way. Courageous travel explorer, Claudia Avila-Batchelor, takes us on a tour of culturally & architecturally rich Lahore.

59 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Australia’s second largest city is often overlooked in favour of glamorous Sydney. Keen traveller and dedicated foodie, Gordon Hickey, discovered that Melbourne is an artistic melting pot and gastronomic heaven.

& SIP MANDARIN GRILL & BAR 64 TASTE

Hong Kong boasts more than 60 Michelin-starred restaurants.

Mandarin Grill & Bar received its first Michelin star in 2009 and has remained one of the city’s premier restaurants ever since. Kalia Michaelides visited to find out why.

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& SIP 68 TASTE COYA LONDON

Few could have predicted how quickly the Peruvian trend would take off around the world. Arjun Waney’s London outpost of Coya, is a rich and vibrant restaurant which screams Latino glamour and serves some of the best Peruvian food in the British capital.

59 39

72 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

Read our exclusive interview with Size Records boss, superstar DJ and one third of electronic supergroup Swedish House Mafia, Steve Angello.

76 ROJA DOVE, PERFUMIER

Perfume fanatics around the globe hang on celebrated British perfumier Roja Dove’s every fragrance-infused word. Stylish Globetrotter interviews the world famous “nose” exclusively for The Cultured Traveller.

83 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

“Today the Cultured Traveller can ski all over the globe at any time of the year through all seasons.

Most would agree, if we were honest, that après-ski has become just as important, if not more, than the actual sport of skiing. Whether dancing 'til dawn in the celebrity-drenched clubs of Courchevel, or risking life and limb in Corbet's Couloir in Jackson's Hole, being fashionably dressed is now a prerequisite, especially if you want to avoid mixing with the hoi polloi.”

Alistair D. Blair, Fashion Designer

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Editor’s Letter There are few cities in the world which sum up the exhilarating experience of travelling - combining colour, history, tremendous contrasts and immense vitality with such richness - as Istanbul. This is why we chose the Turkish megalopolis, with its 15 million inhabitants, for the cover story of The Cultured Traveller's first anniversary issue. Istanbul is a city in a perpetual state of change. You could return after one year and see that in the place of that serene palace you once appreciated, the calm square you crossed by foot, or lush garden you spent an afternoon relaxing in, now exists something completely different, animated and cutting-edge.

The same goes for the world of travel. To travel is to experience an ever changing and constantly developing arena of new, exciting and fresh experiences - unearthed, created or conjured up for an ever more demanding and adventurous holidaymaking and travelling population.

Few industries are quite as swift to react to shifting demand, or adapt to changing tastes and the latest trends, as the hospitality industry. The Cultured Traveller can barely keep up with the abundance of new hotels and resorts throwing open their doors, different destinations becoming accessible to tourists, countries making themselves more attractive to holidaymakers, and the wealth of wild and wonderful experiences on offer to the traveller of today. Who would have thought that cage diving with great white sharks would have become so popular, or that standing on a glass walkway, suspended more than a kilometre above the Grand Canyon’s floor, would have become a reality. Travelling and tourism are assuming ever more varied (and in some cases addictive) forms, making being the editor of any travel medium an enlightening, stimulating and tremendously varied role, one for which I wasn’t fully prepared when I dreamt up the concept for The Cutltured Traveller around Easter time last year. The past twelve months have flown by like a jet-propelled travel train of discovery. It’s thanks to my team, a bevy of talented contributors and you, our valued readers, that The Cultured Traveller is thriving, and will continue to deliver our bimonthly round-up of sophisticated, fanciful and unapologetically decadent travel experiences for a second year. #TCTisOne

Nicholas Chrisostomou

08 The Cultured Traveller October/December 2015

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Istanbul

Melbourne

Lahore

Contributors Alex Benasuli

Resides: London Wrote: City Focus

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life.

Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

Gordon Hickey

Resides: Dublin Wrote: Traveller Lowdown

Dublin native Gordon may have spent the past decade working as a TV producer, but has spent twenty years in front of the camera exploring the world. Fascinated with maps and geography as a child, he went on his first solo trip to Italy at the tender age of 14 and hasn’t looked back since.

Eating his way around the globe and sampling local street cuisine sees him at his happiest.

When he’s not globetrotting, you’ll probably find Gordon busting his moves at one of Ireland’s music festivals.

Claudia Avila-Batchelor

Resides: Cabarete Wrote: Spotlight

Like Magical Realism, Claudia was born in Colombia, and has become a boutique global music industry and writing pioneer as a result of her native culture's zest for dreaming in titan proportions. Having worked and travelled all over the world and lived in numerous places, Claudia's hunger for exotic adventure combines well with her creative zeal, inspiring her to produce fascinating and diverse features for many publications.

Claudia’s debut novel, "A Twist in the Tail", was lauded by none other than the inimitable Howard Marks, whose influence touches her daily.

Alistair D. Blair

Resides: London & Mumbai Wrote: Stylish Globetrotter

After graduating with a 1st Class honours degree in fashion design, Blair went straight to Christian Dior Couture in Paris, followed by 2 years at Givenchy and 5 years assisting Karl Lagerfeld before launching his highly successful label Alistair Blair - specialising in luxury womenswear, menswear & accessories, dressing amongst others Whitney Houston and Diana, Princess of Wales. Blair went on to work for Valentino Couture, Ballantyne Cashmere & Complice.

Blair now has a London-based couture business A.D.B.C (Alistair Duncan Blair Couture) catering exclusively to the discreet elite.

EDITOR Nicholas Chrisostomou DEPUTY EDITOR Kalia Michaelides GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou WEB DEVELOPER Oleg Gnatyk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON THE WEB www.TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON ISSUU www.issuu.com/TheCulturedTraveller TCT ON FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/TheCulturedTraveller AD DEPARTMENT ads@theculturedtraveller.com EDITORIAL TEAM words@theculturedtraveller.com

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FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR

GERMANY

BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL

ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

Be the first to watch the world’s best new films at 16 venues across London at the 59th annual BFI London Film Festival, which showcases original movies by both world-renowned and emerging filmmakers. This year’s 12-day festival features 238 movies, and will open with Suffragette, an intense drama that traces the story of the foot soldiers of the early feminist movement, starring Meryl Streep, Carey Mulligan and Helena Bonham Carter. Also being premiered will be Black Mass starring Johnny Depp, Benedict Cumberbatch and Joel Edgerton in Scott Cooper’s chilling crime drama. Closing the festival will be Steve Jobs, directed by Danny Boyle with Michael Fassbender in the lead role as the reformer at the epicentre of the digital revolution.

7 - 18 October 2015 www.bfi.org.uk/lff

Have you ever tasted real Italian food? Food so real the aromas floor you, oozing intense flavours that have been cultivated for generations. Welcome to Alba, nestled in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, where in the late autumn harvest period of the tartufo bianco, early October to

GREAT BRITAIN

ITALY

mid-November every year, the town hosts the annual Alba International White Truffle Fair, which welcomes international chefs, gastronomy buffs, oenophiles and travelling foodies to taste the decadent, aromatic and wildly exclusive white truffle. Here the little unattractive mushrooms - sniffed out by trained dogs and pigs - are cleaned, meticulously preserved and shaved sparingly over pasta, risotto, grilled vegetables and just about everything else.

10 October - 15 November 2015 www.fieradeltartufo.org

An important feature in the global literary world, the Frankfurt Book Fair, now in it’s 67th year, collects together thousands of publishers, authors, retailers, illustrators, librarians, self-publishers and multimedia suppliers from around the globe, who converge on the German powerhouse city to exchange information, launch books and negotiate the sale of international publishing rights. New for 2015 The Markets: Global Publishing Summit will showcase seven strong and vibrant publishing regions: China, Turkey, USA, Indonesia, South Korea, Mexico & Germany. Visitors to the fair will hear from the influencers in each of these markets, get insights from professionals working there, and meet the relevant experts who can help grow literary businesses in these countries. The fair is open to the general public for the last two days only, Saturday 17 & Sunday 18 October.

14 - 18 October 2015 www.buchmesse.de

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA IRELAND

Since the first Festival of Music and the Arts took place in October 1951, Wexford Festival Opera has grown into one of the world’s leading opera festivals. For 64 years the festival has breathed new life into forgotten or neglected operatic masterpieces, establishing a reputation for high-quality productions that every year brings thousands of opera lovers flocking to Wexford from all over the October/December 2015 The Cultured Traveller 11

world. All operas are performed at The National Opera House, Ireland’s first custom-built opera house, nestled into the heart of the beautiful harbour town of Wexford. This year’s festival includes performances of Pietro Mascagni’s Guglielmo Ratcliff and Frederick Delius’s Koanga, as well as well-known operas Hansel And Gretel and Tosca.

21 October - 1 November 2015 www.wexfordopera.com

VOODOO MUSIC AMERICA

The Voodoo Music & Arts Experience started out small and has, over time, exploded into a mega-event spanning several days and drawing huge music industry names.

Over the course of it’s 16-year history this weekend festival, whose motto is “worship the music”, has hosted thousands of artists and more than one million fans. Divided between four unique performance areas, each of which is enhanced by the use of interactive art, Voodoo is held in New Orleans’ City Park and showcases big name international artists alongside local talent. This year’s line up is headlined by Black Sabbath lead singer, Ozzy Osbourne, accompanied by Geezer Butler, Tom Morello & Slash.

Also headlining are superstar DJs Deadmau5 and Steve Angello (interviewed in Music & Night Life on page 72), Florence & The Machine, plus the founder of disco and electronic music trailblazer, Giorgio Moroder.

30 October - 1 November 2015 www.worshipthemusic.com

BRISBANE GOOD FOOD SHOW AUSTRALIA

The Queensland capital is a big, modern city full of entrepreneurial zeal, cosmopolitan young people, bohemian nightclubs and world-class restaurants, so it’s little surprise that Brisbane hosts one of the country’s top food and wine shows, which celebrates regionally grown and produced foods and wines, and

SALON DU CHOCOLAT FRANCE

Dubbed the world's largest event dedicated to chocolate innovations and cocoa expressions, Salon Du Chocolat is revered by chocolate lovers the world over. Last year’s 20th anniversary attracted more than 120,000 visitors, so 2015’s chocolate festival is being held in the heart of Paris, at the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Center, with even more space to host international chocolatiers. Here visitors will have a unique opportunity to discover and taste chocolates that are not found anywhere else, courtesy of 220 chocolatiers, pastry makers and confectioners, not to mention some of the world’s greatest pastry chefs and cocoa experts. New for 2015, Salon du Chocolat will host the World Chocolate Masters Final, a premium international competition devoted solely to the art of chocolate, organised by Cacao Barry.

28 October - 1 November 2015 www.salonduchocolat.fr

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showcases artisan and locally grown produce from within the state and across Australia. During the show visitors can catch a master class hosted by leading chefs George Calombaris, Adam Liaw, Paul West and Miguel Maestre, drop into a Grazing Garden where Brisbane’s best food trucks will be serving up tasty bites and participate in wine appreciation sessions highlighting varieties from different regions across the country.

30 October - 1 November 2015 www.goodfoodshow.com.au

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE AMERICA

For the 43rd consecutive year, New York’s Greenwich Village will be taken over by more than 50,000 costumed party goers in ghoulish fancy dress, who line-up at 6th Avenue at Canal Street to set off on a mammoth parade, together with hundreds of puppets, bands of varying musical styles, dancers, circus performers and floats. Founded in 1974 by mask-maker and puppeteer Ralph Lee, this massive public participatory event attracts millions of spectators and embodies a different theme each year, this year’s being “Shine a Light!”

31 October 2015 www.halloween-nyc.com

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR INDIA

DIWALI

INDIA

Commonly referred to as The Festival Of Lights, Diwali is an ancient Hindu festival celebrating the victory of light over darkness, hope over despair, and the return of the Sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind Ji, who was freed from imprisonment and also managed to release 52 political prisoners at the same time from Gwalior fort by Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1619.

An important tradition in India, participants clean their homes before the festival and celebrate with friends and family by sharing food and exchanging gifts. Houses are festooned with electric lights, and candles, lamps, torches and fireworks are lit at night, providing a spectacular display of light that symbolises the awareness of inner light and the triumph of good over evil.

11 November 2015

Set in a valley in the Indian state of Rajastan, the sleepy lakeside settlement of Pushkar, in the Northwest Ajmer in the state of Rajasthan, comes to life every year for a colourful camel fair. Close to 50,000 camels are paraded, coiffured, shaved, raced and entered into beauty contests.

With silver bells and bangles around their hoofs they are paraded past the golden sand dunes to an excited crowd.

Aside from some 25,000 camels traded during the course of the event, other livestock are bought and sold as well as textiles, art, saddles, jewellery and finery for camels. The fair is also known for the varied body tattoos it offers.

The religious festival of Kartik Purnima

falls on the last day of the fair and sees thousands of devotees bathe in Pushkar Lake.

18 - 25 November 2015 www.pushkar-camel-fair.com

HIGANTES FESTIVAL PHILIPPINES

Arguably the arts capital of the Philippines, Angono in Rizal has continually attracted art lovers from across the country as well as globally. Originally scheduled to coincide with the festival of Pope St. Clement, the town comes alive every year during Higantes, when towering papier-mâché giants painted in vibrant colours, some 5 or 6 metres tall, parade through the streets much to the joy of vivacious crowds. For tourists visiting Angono, a detour to Blanco Family museum will give an insight to the origins of this fascinating festival, including a huge collection of papier-mâché giants by renowned higante designer, Argana Tori.

22 - 23 November 2015 ofm@angono.gov.ph

LOPBURI MONKEY BANQUET THAILAND

PIRATES WEEK

CAYMAN ISLANDS

If you are looking for a fun time and enjoy the revelry of Caribbean swashbucklers, Pirates Week is the best time to be in the Caymans. For 11 days in November, pirates run amok throughout the islands in this family-friendly festival that brings to life the famous Pirates of the Caribbean, complete with a simulated pirate invasion and fancy dressed revellers at the end of every gangplank.

12 - 22 November 2015 www.piratesweekfestival.com

About 150km north of Bangkok in central Thailand’s provincial capital of Lopburi, around the same time as the Americans celebrate Thanksgiving, the last Sunday of November is reserved for the Lopburi Monkey Banquet. The world’s wildest dinner party, which takes place at The Phra Prang Sam Yot temple, is held in honor of these old world macaques monkeys, who have become integrated into local society. Despite their pick-pocketing tendencies and unpredictable attitudes, these fellow primates have free reign of the town and the ability to enter public buildings and traverse roads like any other citizen. Once a year watch three thousand macaques tuck into a lavish feast that includes two tons of fresh produce, rice, ice cream and other tasty monkey treats.

28 - 29 November 2015

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Rest Your Head

Anguilla, Paris, Tel Aviv, New York, Amsterdam, Tokyo, Santo Domingo, London, Fez, Orlando, Sanya, Moremi

ANGUILLA MALLIOUHANA The USD 80 million renovation of this charming 44-room Caribbean classic, overlooking picture postcard-perfect Meads Bay, gave the hotel a completely new lease of life and reignited interest, amongst the international yachting and seaplane circuit, in the beautiful sun drenched, coral and limestone atoll of Anguilla in the Lesser Antilles islands.

On 1st November 1984, English garment baron, Leon Roydon and his landscape designer wife Annette, welcomed the first guests to Malliouhana. Back then a 40-foot cruiser ferried guests to hidden coves, a Parisian chef prepared classic French cuisine, silver service was the policy, the wine list was 73 pages of French vintages and it was unashamedly expensive to stay.

Malliouhana charmed the right people and became a favorite Caribbean destination, but by two decades later it had fallen off the jet set’s radar and in 2011 the hotel closed. 30 years after the Roydon clan first opened Malliouhana, the hotel was reborn under the parasol of Auberge Resorts, whose portfolio includes a number of similar such seminal properties. Happily the 18-month facelift was respectful and sensitively executed, updating rather than overhauling the complex of white Moorish pavilions, which remain on the same privileged perch, overlooking the turquoise waters of Meads Bay and Turtle Cove.

Starting at 720ft2 all rooms are wonderfully large, and feel even airier now that designer Todd-Avery Lenahan has cooled all the accommodation with soft shades of mint blue, white and daffodil.

The Restaurant at Malliouhana - a legacy of Caribbean dining known for its exquisite setting - continues the hotel's tradition of fine dining. Offering a wide variety of fresh, sea-to-table offerings inspired by Mediterranean cuisine, the restaurant is under the expert guidance of executive chef, Jeremy Bearman, a veteran of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas. www.malliouhana.aubergeresorts.com 15

HÔTEL PLAZA ATHÉNÉE

PARIS

These days the top end of Paris' haughty hotel scene is in steady supply of grande dame makeovers and funky new properties making their glitzy debuts. But the 102-year old Plaza Athénée - a fixture of Avenue Montaigne since 1913 occupies a very special place in Parisian hospitality history. It was the hotel of preference of Rudolph Valentino and later Christian Dior, who loved the area so much he located his boutique there. To this very day it still has the cachet of an imperial - verging on royal - hotel. So it came as little surprise then, that the French foreign minister, Laurent Fabius (who also holds the tourism portfolio) attended its reopening last summer. Plaza Athénée’s upgrade came at a time of continued rebirth in the City of Light's luxury hotel sector, which is very much "all go" and has been for a few years now.

And it shows no sign of abating. The Ritz Paris on Place Vendôme - famed for its Bar Hemingway - is now taking reservations for Spring 2016, after what will have been a three-year EUR200 million refurbishment. 18th Century architectural masterpiece, Hôtel de Crillon in Place de la Concorde, is also undergoing a major renovation and will reopen in 2016 as a Rosewood property.

And The Peninsula Paris, close to the Arc de Triomphe, opened its doors the same month as the updated Plaza Athénée.

Thankfully the renovation of 25 Avenue Montaigne managed to retain the soul of the French hospitality beauty, and we're not just talking about the red awnings and scarlet geraniums which were returned to the hotel's buffed Art Nouveau balconies.

For the restoration of the guestrooms and suites, the hotel chose Marie-José Pommereau, who had been responsible for decorating the rooms for the past 14 years. She also presided over the creation of the additional 14 rooms (including eight suites) created by integrating three buildings that surrounded the hotel, including two luxury townhouses which were absorbed into Plaza Athénée.

Rooms are still decorated in taffetas, velvets and touches of gold embroidery, but Pommereau added warm tones for the walls - including peony, sun-infused yellow and silver - as well as materials such as damask and silks from top couture houses to adorn the windows, armchairs and beds. Italian-made Beltrami 300-thread-count satin cotton sheets and Mako Egyptian cotton towels completed the feel of super luxe expected of such a distinguished hotel. www.dorchestercollection.com

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THE NORMAN

TEL AVIV

During the era of British rule in Palestine, Tel Aviv developed into a thriving urban centre, becoming Israel's foremost economic and metropolitan nucleus. Today Tel Aviv is one of the country’s youngest and most vibrant cities, and to visit this seaside city is to experience a modern, somewhat European lifestyle in a contemporary Middle Eastern metropolis. Well known for its vibrant nightlife, booming technology industry and stunning coastal setting, Tel Aviv is fast becoming renowned for innovative contemporary design and thriving hospitality industry, particularly when it comes to the city’s recent boom in boutique hotels.

Located in the heart of the White City (a UNESCO World Heritage site of stunning Bauhaus architecture), the Norman epitomises the Tel Aviv of today - one where chef-driven restaurants and Modernist design are as sought-after as the next big beach party. Just a few steps from the tree-lined Rothschild Boulevard - one of the city’s main tourist streets - the Norman is set within two historic, restored 1920s Bauhaus buildings, that have been sensitively given a new lease of life and outfitted with state-of-the-art amenities. The Norman is a lesson in restrained 1920s elegance. Interior designer, David d’Almada, has paid tribute to the style of the era, in sleek yet glamorous, light-filled rooms, woven through with refined Mediterranean touches. With one building dedicated entirely to suites, 50 rooms and suites have been thoughtfully curated with a mix of vintage furnishings and modern fixtures, interspersed with over 100 pieces of local Israeli artwork hung throughout the hotel. This aesthetic extends to the pewter-topped Library Bar, with its lived-in décor and classic cocktails, and the rooftop infinity pool, which offers panoramas of the city and views of the sea, perfectly highlighting Tel Aviv’s unique mix of natural beauty and modern development. The Penthouse Duplex is the hotel’s shining pièce de résistance. With one floor that elegantly showcases the best of the building’s original 20th century architecture, and another purpose built floor featuring a private terrace and hot tub, the property’s premium rooftop suite aptly sums up the sumptuousness of The Norman. www.thenorman.com

THE WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM

AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam's luxury hotel scene has been raising its game of late. In the past few years the city has seen the arrival of the fashionable Conservatorium - with it's style-led ethos, minimalist rooms and Asian restaurant - located between Museumplein and P.C. Hoofstraat, Amsterdam’s best fashion street. Conservatorium's expansive, glass-enclosed lobby-lounge is without doubt the best in town. Next to debut was the funky Andaz (Hyatt's lifestyle brand) with its theatrical interiors inspired by Alice in Wonderland, fashioned by Marcel Wanders, the eccentric Dutch designer of all things outrageous and colourful.

Located in a former library on Prinsengracht - one of Amsterdam’s most atmospheric canals - The Andaz is positioned in one of the city's most enviable locations. Then just over a year ago Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam threw open it's elegant doors, which was probably the most surprising of hotel brands to descend upon the world famous party town, although Amsterdam has regained some of its cultural kudos since the remodelled Stedelijk reopened in 2012 and the new-look Rijksmuseum was revealed in 2013 (after a decade-long renovation).

Amsterdam's most sumptuous hotel is disguised as a grande dame, tucked into six 17th and 18th-century townhouses (two of them were formerly mayoral residences) on well-to-do Herengracht, the Gentlemen's Canal. When it opened just over a year ago, the Waldorf Astoria very much dropped in and snatched the crown, literally overnight, as the city's most ritzy hotel, and most deservedly so. The hotel channels all the richness and composition of a Dutch still life, from the majestic marble-clad entrance hall to the regal hand- carved, Louis XIV–style staircase, the Peacock Alley lounge, Vault Bar and the hotel's fine dining restaurant, Librije’s Zusje Amsterdam, courtesy of famed three Michelin-starred duo Jonnie and Thérèse Boer. The entire hotel is a beautifully executed exercise in elegance, luxury and downright glamness, and it's encouraging to see the notorious party town move into upper class hospitality circles at last. www.hilton.com 17

AMAN TOKYO

TOKYO

Every hotel which opens in Tokyo has got to stand out in one way or another in order to succeed, and Aman's first foray into the city retreat category, located close to the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Station, doesn't disappoint. In fact the hotel's exceptional features could make this Aman's finest property yet. It is certainly the most sleek. Think hyper-modern, minimalist penthouse in the sky, floating above the city of Tokyo, and you'll be on the right track.

Located at the top of the 40-storey Otemachi Tower, which it shares with Japan’s third largest bank, Mezuho, Aman Tokyo is an uncompromising urban hotel. The soaring atrium, more than thirty storeys above the city’s CBD, is almost 30 meters high and has been designed to resemble the interior of a Japanese paper lantern. There's no greenery, balconies, terraces or outside space to speak of, but to compensate tiny bonsai trees, arty arrangements of twigs in gorgeous ceramics and ikebana displays, form an inherent part of the overall design esthetic. This attention to detail, coupled with the acres of deep grey rough-hewn stone, camphor and hinoki woods, and beautiful, simply designed furniture of superlative quality, make for reassuringly calming modernist spaces. In fact all the public spaces and 84 rooms of Aman Tokyo ooze quality, elegance and class, and radiate a Zen-like quality that makes effective and clever use of earthy materials, and at the same skillfully directs your gaze towards the spectacular vistas over the city offered by the huge windows everywhere.

Bedroom walls are paneled in a light wood, their floors pale pine - a combination no hotelier could ever risk except in Japan, where, in keeping with Japanese sensibilities, you are required to remove your shoes on entering. All accommodations are generous, light and peaceful - with entry-level deluxe rooms a spacious 71m² and the smallest suite a very generous 140m² - and the perfect place to retreat after a day in hectic Tokyo. Don’t miss the pool with its stunning views of Mount Fuji, and the beautiful traditional Japanese breakfast. www.aman.com

SANTO DOMINGO CASAS DEL XVI Nestled in the heart of Santo Domingo’s Colonial City, site of the first permanent European settlement in the New World, Casas del XVI is the first hotel in the Dominican Republic to comprise an exclusive collection of three, lovingly renovated colonial houses dating back to the 16th century. Converted into deluxe accommodations overflowing with character, style and history, these houses that once received 16th-century aristocrats now serve as a plush boutique hotel, welcoming guests into a divine home-like setting. Since each home was conceived and built independently, in its reincarnation each has its own individual design and floor plan, is reminiscent of the island’s earliest European settlers, and is overseen by a personal mayordomo (or butler), attending to guests' every need and ensuring that visits to this cosmopolitan city are enjoyed to the max.

Each of Casas del XVI's ten lavish guest rooms deftly recaptures the essence of a bygone era, with antiques and decor that combine Dominican, Spanish, African and Indian cultural influences. Vintage maps of early explorations and local artworks adorn walls, while Roman roofs, lanterns, colorful tiles and vaulted brick archways add to the charm and romanticism of the property. All rooms skillfully blend the old and new, with mother-of-pearl inlaid furnishings, flat-screen TVs, iPod docking stations, king or queen beds with fine linens and stylish, modern bathrooms. There is even an English-speaking chauffeur on hand to ferry guests around. www.casasdelxvi.com 18

CHILTERN FIREHOUSE

LONDON

Owned by André Balazs, the suave American hotelier with the Midas touch, of Hollywood's Chateau Marmont and New York's Mercer Hotel fame, the media would have us believe that Chiltern Firehouse - erected in 1890 to accommodate fire engines - is permanently accessorised by Kate Moss. With paparazzi permanently residing outside, ready to pounce on the personalities who swarm like moths to this decommissioned fire station in Marylebone, it certainly seems like this is London’s premier celebrity magnet, having seen everyone from Naomi Campbell and David Beckham to Bill Clinton and Bono pass through its hallowed doors. Stars of stage, screen and even politics (Prime Minister David Cameron and Mrs Cameron enjoyed dinner à deux at the Firehouse last month) seemed to spend the best part of last year queuing round the block to eat at Nuno Mendes' famed downstairs restaurant, and Lindsay Lohan practically moved into one of the suites upstairs. One could hardly blame her. The Firehouse's 26-room hotel, which opened for business a year ago just in time for London Fashion Week 2014 (naturally), boasts huge rooms with deep double mattresses, bespoke pillows, Italian-made sheets, marble vanity tables, pewter baths and access to a personal concierge. Whilst this hotel is a surprisingly good place to sleep, one imagines that it would be even better for a romantic tryst or a private party, and the Firehouse has been designed so both these pursuits can be done confidentially, with three mirrored lifts and a staircase tucked away at the back of the building for alternative routes past reception. Lily Allen, Simon Cowell, Bradley Cooper, Tony Blair and Orlando Bloom have all been glimpsed sneaking out of the Firehouse's secret back door. Perhaps a stay at Chiltern Firehouse is best summed-up by a card sitting by the phone on the bedside table in every guest room, which simply says "Dial 0 for anything". www.chilternfirehouse.com

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NEW YORK

BACCARAT HOTEL Across the street from MOMA and Manhattan’s museum mile (home to the Met, Guggenheim and many more) at 28 West 53rd Street, a flamboyant & sparkling corrugated crystal façade, of almost 40 metres wide, heralds your arrival at the 50-storey Baccarat Hotel & Residences tower, the first foray into the hospitality industry by France’s eponymous 251-year old luxury crystal brand, the brainchild of Barry Sternlicht, former CEO of Starwood Hotels and creator of the W Hotel concept.

Hotelier Sternlicht is a talented and seasoned operator, and when he launches a new hotel brand you can be sure that it's been hyper-carefully researched and painstakingly thought through. Baccarat Hotel is no exception and, thanks in large part to husband-and-wife design team, Patrick Gilles and Dorothée Boissier, of Paris-based firm Gilles & Boissier, has managed - rather skillfully - to juxtapose extreme French luxury with premium hospitality functionality, top-end services and fun detailing. An LED light show, featuring over 2,000 of the company’s Harcourt glasses, graces the hotel’s foyer, forming a dazzling light installation that pulsates morning through night. 250 blank, bound volumes - one for every year the lavish crystal maker has been around - sit in chronological order, waiting for guests to fill them with stories. And rather than a monster Merc (which New Yorkers seem so fond of), the hotel's 1970s Citroën DS house car, cutely named "Louis XV", chauffeurs guests anywhere within 15 blocks of the hotel on a complimentary basis. This fun detailing makes Baccarat a refreshing alternative to some of the pretentious grande dames hotels that previously reigned supreme in the area.

Throughout the property the public spaces are spectacularly appointed with grand chandeliers and crystal objects accenting every space and sparkling in the light. Hand-pleated silks cascade from ceiling and fresh bouquets of perfectly arranged blood red roses add welcome bolts of colour to pastel lounges. The petite and grand salons are particularly fabulously bedecked with lavish treatments, such as fur-upholstered seating, silver-leaf wood paneling, and sparkling mica-covered vaulted ceilings.

Rooms at the Baccarat feature four-poster beds flanked by marble nightstands, Baccarat crystal light fixtures, white-marble bathroom floors and flat-screen televisions concealed within smoked mirrors, and start at USD1,000 per night. www.baccarathotels.com 21

HOTEL SAHRAI

FEZ

Marrakech was the Moroccan destination on everyone’s lips for more than a decade, with its luxurious hotels, nightclubs and easily accessible mélange of the exotic, cultural and colourful. The artsy windswept 18th century UNESCO World Heritage town of Essaouira was generally second on travellers' lists of must visit places in North Africa, especially for windsurfing fanatics. With few upscale places to stay, Fez, just under 250 miles northeast of Marrakech, was often overlooked and little more than a hasty stopover, for one to be able to tick the "been there done that" box and make a joke about the hat which shares the same name as the city. But times have changed, albeit slowly.

A sophisticated scene has taken root in Fez, much as it did in Marrakech twenty years ago. It started with expats and locals restoring riads and raving about the medieval medina - still totally inaccessible to cars and still genuinely Moroccan. The gradual, NATURAL process of development has continued, as hotels, restaurants and galleries have SLOWLY popped-up around the city. For those who fell in love with Marrakech before it became an international party mecca, now is the moment to visit Fez. The biggest hospitality news in the city for donkey's years was the opening of Hotel Sahrai. Built over the remains of an old palace perched on a hillside between the medina and the French-built ville nouvelle, Hotel Sahrai is owned by Fez-born businessman, Anis Sefrioui, an entrepreneur and architect’s son. Sefrioui used to run Riad Fès, which was converted into a hotel by his father and brought up to Relais & Châteaux standards by young Sefrioui. From it's enviable vantage point, Sefrioui's opulent boutique hotel offers extraordinary views of every period in Fez's history. Christophe Pillet designed the 50 modern guest rooms, a number of which overlook an L-shaped infinity pool on the top of the building. Understandably the hotel’s rooftop bar became the hippest place in town quickly after opening. The 10 superior rooms, 26 deluxe rooms, 13 junior suites and 1 Sahrai Suite are comfortably chic, and feature contrasting taza stone faced walls, copper lanterns, all-glass enclosed bathrooms, beds by Piero Lissoni and cute 60s retro touches. www.hotelsahrai.com

PARK HYATT SANYA SUNNY BAY RESORT

SANYA

Sanya is located in the very south of China, on the edge of the island of Hainan. Its long white sandy beaches, coral reefs and clear waters have attracted a steadily increasing number of visitors, causing a rapid expansion of the tourist industry in the area, not all of which has had a positive effect on either the resort or its surroundings. Known as “the Hawaii of China" (which isn't a terribly complimentary description to bestow upon a resort), the long Sanya coastline boasts a number of luxe, big name resorts (including St. Regis, Banyan Tree and Mandarin Oriental) which have opened tasteful properties with sprawling grounds and luxury facilities, as you'd expect of top end hotel brands. Unfortunately these are offset by a number of high-rises that are not terribly attractive. The new Park Hyatt Sanya Sunny Bay Resort (a six word hotel name is way too long in our opinion!), five kilometers from over-popular Yalong Bay, bucks the typical Sanya trend, by being designed to resemble a huge private seaside mansion. Hyatt is rather adept at executing Park beach resorts and this modernist property is no exception. Designed by award-winning Belgian architect, Jean-Michael Gathy, who was responsible for the renowned infinity pool at Marina Bay Sands and multiple Aman resorts, the interiors of Park Hyatt Sanya’s 207 elegant rooms are residential in style, and offer guests a home away from home with panoramic beach and ocean views of the South China Sea. Guests can avail themselves of a private bay, five resort swimming pools, eight food and beverage venues and activities for all ages with a focus on local culture and sea and environmental education. www.sanya.park.hyatt.com

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ORLANDO

FOUR SEASONS RESORT ORLANDO AT WALT DISNEY WORLD Florida’s Walt Disney World is easily the largest and most popular theme park on the planet, pulling in an estimated 18+ million visitors last year. The 43-square mile site, is more like a city than a tourist attraction, roughly twice the size of Manhattan and home to four distinct amusement parks - the Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom, Hollywood Studios, and Epcot Center - plus waterparks, sports fields, endless retail therapy, several golf courses, an extensive public transportation system of rail, water and roads bigger than most cities, wildlife preserve, nightlife and entertainment districts, more than 100 restaurants of every type, plus literally dozens of hotels, resorts and campgrounds. But what Walt Disney World had lacked to date - actually what the city of Orlando had lacked - was a true luxury hotel.

Granted there is Grand Floridian, a sprawling 867-room Victorian-style resort which has its own monorail stop for easy access to the Magic Kingdom. But Grand Floridian is a bit like a Disney hotel on steroids, where, if you fancied a few days without Mickey and Minnie, it might not be so easy to achieve here. And you could never confuse Grand Floridian with a classic, refined Four Seasons. In light of the continuing worldwide expansion in the top end of the travel spectrum, both from local Americans and the quickly growing upper classes of fast developing countries including China, Russia and India, it has become increasingly important to Disney to be able to cater for these new, discerning and wealthy travellers. Four Seasons Resort Orlando caters for these people. People who want a less full-on Disney experience.

Tucked away in the secluded millionaires’ enclave of Golden Oak, a private gated community in natural woodland with its own golf course - the architecture of Four Seasons Resort Orlando is part Spanish revival part modern Italianate, echoing the ethos of a peaceful retreat where guests can opt for as little of, or as much of Disney as they want. The hotel sits on a large lake and has its own 5-acre private island full of facilities. Many rooms have views of the resort, lake and golf course set in lush woodlands. At night there’s a distant glow of fireworks from the Magic Kingdom. Each of the hotel’s spacious 443 rooms is bedecked in soothing beige and white, with gauzy blue drapes, private terrace and luxurious bathroom with a deep soaking tub and rain shower. The hotel’s accommodation pièce de résistance is its Royal Suite on the top floor. A 306 m² mega pad which can be expanded to include 9 separate bedrooms occupying the entire level, make this the biggest suite of any Four Seasons property in the world. www.fourseasons.com

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MOREMI

SANDIBE OKAVANGO SAFARI LODGE Set in a cool forest canopy of wild palms and twisted fig trees, this stunning safari lodge combines spectacular design with exceptional wildlife adventures. Set on a private concession in the magnificent Okavango Delta, Sandibe boasts exclusive traversing rights over a vast stretch of land adjacent to the wildlife-rich Moremi Game Reserve, and is possibly the most architecturally beautiful timber cathedral to nature you'll ever see. Celebrating its incredible location and magnificent setting at every turn, Sandibe was rebuilt from the ground up and reopened a year ago, with a dozen cocoon-like suites that hover on stilts above a private floodplain reserve. Each is made with rounded, handwoven cedar, designed after the elaborate nests of the golden weaverbird. Wood-burning fireplaces, private plunge pools, and solar-powered air-conditioning make it easy to forget that you’re in the middle of nowhere. Except of course when you’re gently woken by the sound of birdsong, or sharing a communal meal by campfire when an elephant saunters by.

Days are spent exploring a maze of papyrus and searching the wide floodplains in the pursuit of wildlife. The lodge’s outstanding design - open all around - creates a dramatic sense of space and grandeur, where guests revel in one of Africa’s most untouched landscapes, drinking in the serene beauty of the unique natural spectacle that lies right on their doorstep. www.andbeyond.com

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ISTANBUL THE STIMULATING, EXCITING & HISTORIC CAPITAL OF TWO EMPIRES SPANNING ONE & A HALF MILLENIA WRITTEN BY ALEX BENASULI • STAY, SEE, TASTE, SIP & SPEND BY NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU hen summarising my favourite cities in the world - taking into account everything from energy, excitement and nightlife through to history, sightseeing and natural setting - Istanbul consistently ranks among the best. Like Lisbon and San Francisco, Istanbul is built on many steep and rolling hills and some of the views literally take your breath away. The setting commands your attention. Like Rome, Istanbul was the capital of one of the greatest empires the world has ever

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known. The former palaces, grand mosques, byzantine churches and aqueducts rival those of anywhere on the planet. Like New York and Bangkok, the city beats with a frenetic pulse, supported by a vibrant street culture of cafes, restaurants, markets, antique stores and art galleries.

Ultimately, what makes Istanbul so special is its uniqueness, and it’s this, which elevates the city into a class of its own.

I started visiting Istanbul more than twenty years ago and have returned annually ever since. During these years my

SULTANAHMET CAMII ΈBLUE MOSQUEΉ

There are only a handful of buildings in the world where you can learn about two major empires spanning over 1500 years. Hagia Sophia is one of them.

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HAGIA SOPHIA

BOSPHORUS BRIDGE

love affair for the city has only grown. First impressions do matter. Istanbul is a visually enticing city. It stimulates and excites. Making one’s way towards the city from Ataturk Airport, the road begins to hug the Marmara Sea. Alongside the sea is a promenade that stretches for kilometers.

Athletically clad runners and couples in love share the space with traditional local families, women in headscarves and their children playing. Turkey is a secular country with a moderately Islamic government. Tensions do exist. However for the most part, liberal and conservative societies peacefully co-exist, nowhere more so than in Istanbul.

Luxury and middle class housing are charmingly interspersed with crumbling ramparts from centuries past.

In spring the roadside is landscaped with endless tulips in mesmerising patterns and colours. The Turks first cultivated tulips as early as 1000 AD and the Netherlands owes its tulip heritage to the Ottoman Empire. Attention to aesthetic detail is one of the many legacies that the Ottoman Empire has left on the city. This legacy, and the illustrious history of Istanbul, soon becomes apparent as Sultan Ahmet and the Golden Horn come into view when approaching the city from the airport by car. On one side a cityscape of broad mosques and towering minarets unfolds, on the other the Galata Bridge and the mouth of the Bosphorus, the signature image of Istanbul. Sultan Ahmet, also known as Fatih, is the heart of the old town and the site of the city’s most important heritage sites, Hagia Sophia, The Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. Conveniently the three are located within walking distance of each other. There really is no excuse not to immerse yourself in the splendor of these world-class sites except for all but the briefest of visits.

28 The Cultured Traveller October/December 2015

DOLMABAHÇE PALACE

From 537 to 1453 Hagia Sophia was a Greek Orthodox Cathedral and the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople. It remained the largest cathedral in the world for nearly 1,000 years, a testament to Constantinople being the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. It is world renowned for its basilica and the byzantine mosaics found within. When the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453, they renamed the city Istanbul and converted Hagia Sophia into a mosque.

There are only a handful of buildings in the world where you can learn about two major empires spanning over 1500 years. Hagia Sophia is one of them.

SEE

ISTANBUL MODERN Since the Istanbul Modern set up shop in 2004 in a converted 8,000m² warehouse on the shores of the Bosphorus, in Beyoğlu district’s Tophane neighbourhood, the area has become a thriving contemporary arts hub, with galleries aplenty on Boğazkesen Caddesi, spilling into Karaköy. The Istanbul Museum of Modern Art houses an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art by Turkey's leading artists. As well as permanent and temporary exhibition galleries, a photography gallery and spaces for educational and social programs, the museum has a cinema, design store and restaurant offering tasty nibbles and stunning river views. www.istanbulmodern.org

CHORA MUSEUM İstanbul has more than its fair share of Byzantine monuments, but few are as drop-dead gorgeous as this mosaic and fresco-laden church. Located in the western part of Sultan Ahmet tucked away from the sites, it may be a bit of a schlep to get there but it’s well worth the trip. Chora has some of the most intact and striking Byzantine mosaic interiors of anywhere in the city.

Pay for an audio tour or better still hire a private guide. Afterwards treat

GALATA TOWER

The Topkapi Palace has the benefit of history with a view. It sits on a promontory, facing where the Marmara Sea narrows towards the Bosphorus. Yes, you are atop one of the planet’s crossroads, straddling Europe and Asia, where East meets West, connecting the Mediterranean to The Black Sea through one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world. The palace was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for almost 400 years until the mid 1850s. My favorite part of the complex is the Harem, the sets of apartments in which the Sultan’s concubines lived. The Harem has some of most exquisite tiling work in the world, adorning the walls and ceiling of these private chambers.

yourself to lunch in the relaxing garden of Asitane Restaurant nearby, which has been serving delicious Ottoman food since 1991. Before you head back to your hotel, take a look at the nearby walls that ringed old Constantinople and date back to the 5th Century. www.choramuseum.com asitanerestaurant.com

GALATA TOWER You can get a bird's eye view of the old town from the balcony at the top of the medieval stone Galata Tower in Beyoğlu, the modern part of old Istanbul that, in pre-Republican days was home to the city's foreign residents. Built in 1348, the 63-metre tower once formed part of a sub-city belonging to the Genoese, that stretched right down to the Bosphorus, who called it “Tower Of Christ”. +90 212 293 81 80

MISIR APARMANI Up on Ístiklal Caddesi, Misir Aparmani, a beautiful 19th-century apartment block presiding over Beyoğlu, is home to half a dozen leading Turkish galleries. One of these, Galerist, has hosted fashion designer Hüseyin Çhalayan's photography projects and stylish, hyper-realistic paintings by Taner Ceylan, amongst many others.

Misir Aparmani, 163/4 Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoğlu +90 212 244 8230. www.galerist.com.tr

TOPKAPI PALACE

Inspired by beauty and fortified by lunch at one of the many fish or kebab restaurants in the windy lanes of Sultan Ahmet, a short stroll down the hill to the Grand Bazar could be in order but only if you like to browse, shop and enjoy the sport of haggling. If culinary delights are more your thing, the Spice Bazaar will surely beckon. Istanbul is the commercial and financial capital of Turkey and this is a city of traders and shopkeepers. Coming to these old markets always reminds me that this is a city which is always open for business. Turkey has had its fair share of political and economic uncertainty over the decades but its trading history has spanned centuries and continues unabated.

The hustle and bustle of daily life is knitted into the fabric of Istanbul. Streets and sidewalks are clogged with top end chauffeur-driven German automobiles, old Fiats, commercial vehicles, pedestrians and pushcarts. It’s not unheard of for trips of a few kilometers to take an hour.

Leaving Sultan Ahmet behind, crossing Galata Bridge, the city gets denser, taller and busier. Galata Tower comes into view, marking the Beyoglu neighborhood. In the past Beyoglu (then known as Pera) was the district where foreign merchants built their foreign mansions and lived in supreme comfort. Today Beyoglu is the arts, entertainment and nightlife center of Istanbul, where bohemian, traditional and 21st century co-exist side by side.

When the kaleidoscope of urban intensity and wealth of history becomes a little bit too much, it’s a good idea to retreat to an outdoor, waterfront terrace on the Bosphorus.

To gaze onto the Asian side of Istanbul, the ship traffic and

TASTE CECCONI'S

PIZZA EAST

Quite probably the city's hottest restaurant, the Istanbul branch of Cecconi's (there are outlets in London, Miami and Hollywood) is situated beside Soho House Istanbul members club, although thankfully Cecconi's is open to all. The private back garden - evocative of the Mediterranean and surrounded by the walls of the old consulate building - is the place to dine.

Try and bag a table underneath the olive trees. Ex Cecconi's Hollywood Chef Alessio Biangini's northern Italian fare is easily some of the best international cuisine in the city. If you're starting with some traditional Venetian cicchetti, the roast bone marrow (20 TL) and zucchini flowers with ricotta (20 TL) are a must. Follow with burrata (38 TL) and spaghetti with lobster for main (115 TL) and you'll leave a very happy bunny. www.cecconisistanbul.com

The outdoor seating section, of this Soho House Istanbul-owned pizza boutique in the center of fashionable Akaretler, is the place to be seen in the area. In addition to tasty pizzas you’ll find delicious antipasti, oven-baked dishes and veggies galore, with the emphasis on using local ingredients.

Flavorsome foods are complimented by a good wine list, tasty house cocktails and homemade lemonade, ginger beer and iced teas. To start we recommend the squash blossom fritti (28 TL) followed by sea bass with clams for main (45 TL). Finish off with a selection of cheeses, which must include the Gorgonzola dolce (40 TL). www.pizzaeast.com/istanbul

SPAGO The Cultured Traveller enjoyed exceptionally good music courtesy of the Saturday night DJ at Austrian star chef Wolfgang Puck’s Istanbul outpost of his famous LA eatery, Spago, located on the rooftop of The St. Regis Istanbul. Whilst his contemporary cuisine ranges from simple steaks to handmade tortellini and steamed sea bass Hong Kong-style, the setting impresses as much as the cooking, with stunning views across Maçka Park and the city. The restaurant’s glam, circular outdoor bar is almost always busy with a smart, upwardly mobile set over the weekends. In time this is sure to become one of the city's celebrity hotspots. www.wolfgangpuck.com

LA PETITE MAISON The fame of La Petite Maison has spread far and wide from its original location in Nice to its subsequent branches in London, Dubai and Beirut. In summer 2014 the brand opened its newest restaurant within Park Hyatt Istanbul at the majestic Maçka Palas in Nişantaşi, built in 1922 by Italian architect Guilio Mongeri as a residential building for Italian diplomats. The food at La Petite Maison never fails to impress and the Istanbul outpost is no exception, combining the best fresh seasonal ingredients with the culinary influences of the Côte d’Azur and neighbouring Liguria, to create yet simple and delicious French Mediterranean and Niçoise cuisine. www.lpmistanbul.com.tr

Like New York and Bangkok, Istanbul beats with a frenetic pulse, supported by a vibrant street culture of cafes, restaurants, markets, antique stores and art galleries.

the verdant banks of the Bosphorus, dotted with Ottoman era palaces and mansions, is one of my greatest travel pleasures. Container ships and oil tankers compete with small fishing boats and luxury yachts to create constant visual stimulation.

A private water taxi around sunset to your restaurant of choice along the Bosphorus is a highlight of any trip to this amazing city.

A city of over 12 million does not reveal itself at once. There are always layers of the onion to peel away in this concentrated metropolis, new neighborhoods to explore, different restaurants to audition, smaller and less visited historical sites to discover. And the city is seasonal. In summer the action moves outdoors, to Ortakoy and wealthy suburbs like Bebek and Ulus alongside and above the Bosphorus. In late fall, winter, and early spring, the city’s social and cultural elite frequent smart

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and fashionable Nişantaşı, historical Beyoglu and the gentrified, edgier neighborhoods of Cihangir and Cukorova.

Nişantaşı is one of the city’s most well-to-do areas and where you’ll find glossy designer shops, art galleries and fancy restaurants.

Having been the capital of two empires straddling 1,500 years, Istanbul exudes self-confidence and sophistication, wearing its history as a beautiful badge of honour. As the economic capital of Turkey and the largest city in Europe, it is a city of movers and shakers. These contrasts of old and new, Europe and Asia, secular and Muslim religions all add to the mix of what makes Istanbul an exciting and unique city.

SIP

A visit to Istanbul wouldn’t be complete without a sundowner at a rooftop bar. The skyline of Istanbul spans everything from high-rises to historical mosques, elegant bridges, battered old housing, Ottoman towers and flocks of seagulls. Watching the sun setting behind this rich silhouette is a not-to-be-missed experience, so here’s a quartet of the city’s best places to watch the night fall over Istanbul:

VOGUE Perched atop the highest building in Akaretler, Vogue has been an Istanbulite favourite for almost 20 years, not least because the venue boasts unparalleled sweeping vistas of the Bosphorus. The talented kitchen can produce authentic French, Turkish and Japanese food to perfection, so you might like to make Vogue an all night destination rather than just a drink. www.voguerestaurant.com

FERAHFEZA Ferahfeza opened in August 2013 without the pizzazz usually associated with new openings in the hip Karaköy neighbourhood, but has been packed ever since, garnering rave reviews for its mix of Mediterranean fare and flavourful local favourites, not to mention the super friendly staff. But what sets Ferahfeza apart is its terrace, with views across the Karaköy pier and the center of ancient Istanbul. www.ferahfeza-ist.com

ZELDA ZONK Chroniclers of Marilyn Monroe have long reported that she used the alias Zelda Zonk to avoid the press, which hounded her to a degree rivaling even today's Hollywood paparazzi.

Apparently once she even booked a plane ticket from Los Angeles to New York under the fake name. Zelda Zonk bar, on the top of Gradiva Hotel - with views of Haliç and the Golden Horn on one side and the Galata Tower on the other - has become a firm favourite of city dwellers for it’s eclectic kitchen, amazing views and DJs rocking the joint until the early hours. www.gradivahotels.com/zeldazonk.php

360 360 occupies a penthouse on the top floor of the historical 19th-century Misir apartment building, overlooking the old embassy row in Beyoğlu. It’s worth coming here for the dramatic views stretching over Istanbul in all directions. But the food’s not that great and overpriced, so rather than booking dinner, arrive early, smile nicely at the waiters, beg them to give you window seats and sip your cocktail slowly. After a couple of beverages you can find a decent bite to eat on Ístiklal Caddesi below. www.360istanbul.com

SPEND

Istanbul’s position on an ancient trade route between east and west means that its inhabitants are merchants and shoppers to their core. They love to trade, sell, haggle, barter and buy. From light fittings, Ottoman antiques and fine carpets to belly-dancing costumes, jewellery and cookware, Istanbul is a shopper’s paradise, but you do need to know where to look, and not get distracted into buying stuff you may regret having spent your hard-earned cash on once you’re back home! If it all gets a bit much in the Grand Bazaar, try to find Fes Café (Halicilar Cad 32) and stop for a breather.

IZNIK-ART

Ismail Yigit is a traditional Turkish potter and tile-making master, who produces exquisite ceramic art and ottoman pottery in his small workshop, always faithful to time old traditions.

View and purchase his gorgeous creations at a small gallery and store in the Grand Bazaar. www.iznik-art.com

SOAPERY This charming little shop inside the Grand Bazaar sells high quality perfume oils and handmade soaps produced in Turkey using natural, plant-based essential oils. www.soaperry.com

ABDULLA Regional cloths, towels, peshtemals, bathrobes, bedding and other bath and home textile products - all 100% Turkish yet reflecting the fusion between east and west - can be picked-up in the contemporary Abdulla store, located in the Grand Bazaar. It’s difficult to leave Abdulla without buying something for the home. www.abdulla.com

ARSAH CARPETS Away from the madness of the bazaar, in Eminönü near the Gulhane tram stop, Arsah Carpets sells new, old and antique mid-priced carpets, kilims and more. Take note: buying a carpet is an involved process which takes time, tea, patience, posturing, haggling and instinct. Spending money in this way is not a quick or glamorous process, so don’t embark on a mission to buy a carpet unless you are determined and willing to persevere! www.arsahcarpets.wordpress.com

SOHO HOUSE ISTANBUL The latest outpost of global members club phenomenon, Soho House in Istanbul’s breathtaking Palazzo Corpi, overtly flaunts its history in spades. In 1873, Ignazio Corpi, a powerful Genoese shipping magnate with a penchant for Italian marble and rosewood, commissioned a palatial residence bearing his family’s name in what was then known as the European quarter of Constantinople. He engaged Italian architect Giacomo Leoni, who set about importing marble from Carrara for the flooring and facings and Piemonte rosewood for the doors and window frames.

Famous artists of the day were invited to create the wall paintings depicting Greek mythological scenes in the entrance hall and on the ceilings of the Great Hall. The building took nine years in total to complete. Following Iganzio’s death, his nephews leased the building to the American Ambassador, John G.A. Leishman, and from 1906 the Palazzo served as the US Embassy and residence until 1937, and then as the Consulate General from 1937 until 2003.

The designation of Ankara as Turkey’s capital in 1923 resulted in the transfer of embassy activities away from Istanbul, so in 2003 the US State Department moved the Consul General to a more secure facility on the European shore of the Bosphorus.

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Following extensive and lengthy renovations, Soho House Istanbul opened in spring 2015, unveiling indisputably one of the most stunning members clubs in the world. The palazzo’s renovated refinement pans from original frescoes to 1,000-crystal chandeliers.

Contemporary accoutrements include a private hammam and a rooftop splash-pool (where you can watch the Golden Horn sunset as you cool off) and an adjoining über-modern 87-room hotel of varying sized accommodations, from “Tiny” rooms to mezzanine rooms and suites. All include complimentary Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs, mini bar, tea & coffee-making facilities, homemade biscuits and a range of Cowshed products.

The House’s singular, vast 282m² apartment, at the top of the hotel which incorporates a 129m² private terrace with Jacuzzi and BBQ is available to hire for short or long-term lets. Offering a super king-size bed, walk-in rainforest shower and oversized bath tub, fully integrated kitchen and bar, spacious living room and dining table for 10, Soho House Istanbul’s apartment is the perfect base to lodge, live and entertain in supreme style. www.sohohouseistanbul.com

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GRAND HYATT ISTANBUL Boasting arguably the best swimming pool in the city, plus tennis courts, gorgeous secluded gardens, sprawling spa, large well-equipped gym, yoga studio, Turkish bath and a selection of bars and restaurants, Grand Hyatt Istanbul is a veritable resort hotel in the heart of the bustling metropolis. Rarely does one find such extensive facilities in a city centre property. Located near Taksim Square and Istiklal Street - close enough to grab a map from concierge and set off to explore on foot - this five-star hotel is immersed in the downtown epicentre of modern Istanbul, just a stone’s throw from the city’s thriving nightlife and shopping districts yet a complete oasis of calm and class once through it’s gracious doors and vast, soaring marble lobby. Ideal not only for vacationers but also for business travelers, the hotel boasts a bevvy of devoted planners, caterers and events professionals, and, being in the centre of Congress Valley, is located in close proximity to Istanbul’s major convention centers.

Grand Hyatt Istanbul boasts more than 360 deluxe rooms, including 22 suites, 8 fully-furnished luxury apartments and a 240m² Presidential Suite with spectacular views of the Bosphorus.

Guests staying in Grand Club rooms have exclusive access to a private lounge serving complimentary drinks all day plus cocktails, wines and canapés every evening, pre dinner. What a civilised way to start a night out in such an energetic and exuberant city.

Of the hotel’s many food and beverage offerings, two restaurants are standout and worthy of a visit to Grand Hyatt Istanbul even if you’re not staying at the property. Restaurant 34 is a multi-cuisine destination, offering five different concepts in one location, including a chef’s table where guests can feast on expertly prepared foods arranged in front of their eyes, and a specialist charcuterie and cheese room. Hori brings the spirit of traditional Japanese restaurants to Istanbul with a unique menu and authentic Oriental ambience, and enjoys its own traditional Tatami room as well as a variety of private dining areas for special occasions. The Library Bar evokes the style and class of a traditional English gentlemen’s club and is the perfect setting for a glass of champagne or fine cognac after dinner. www.istanbul.grand.hyatt.com

THE ST. REGIS ISTANBUL Whisking you back to the glamour of 1920s Turkey, the snazzy St Regis Istanbul is the latest addition to the city's luxury hotel scene.

Occupying a prime corner site atop a hill overlooking Maçka Park and the Bosphorus, this super deluxe property is situated in the city's most chic neighbourhood, Nişantaşi, which is brimming with top-end restaurants, contemporary art galleries and designer boutiques, including Lanvin, Tom Ford, Versace, Alexander McQueen and Zegna. When you step outside the hotel you literally set foot in Istanbul's most glitzy shopping area, as you would if you were staying at the Beverly Wilshire in LA - across from Rodeo Drive - or Claridge's in London, 100 metres from Bond Street.

Jazz singer-songwriter, Jamie Cullum, performed at the hotel's April 2015 opening party, setting the sophisticated tone for the contemporary seven-storey building of 118 bedrooms and suites. St. Regis is all about creating an über-luxurious and sophisticated yet understated and comfortable hotel environment, and the Istanbul property epitomises the brand perfectly, with a creative use of natural materials and earth tones throughout - from bronze to marble, leather and wood veneers. This is a simply stunning property, inside and out, which coupled with the extensive

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contemporary art and sculpture on display throughout the building, makes The St. Regis Istanbul an art lovers destination, itself worthy of a tour guide. A multi-million dollar Botero hanging by the lifts gives guests an obvious clue that this hotel means business when it comes to art and opulence.

All rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, benefit from 24-hour butler service and either look out over Maçka Park with glimpses of the Bosphorus, or Abdi Ipekçi shopping street. The decor of the public areas continues seamlessly into the bedrooms with the same autumnal colours, wood veneers and contemporary art installations. Bathrooms are spacious, decadent and almost entirely covered in grey-striped Marmara marble with incredible bronze accenting. Even entry-level rooms have separate dressing rooms. If you're facing the park and the Istanbul sun gets a little too strong, press a button next to the bed and space-age metal shutters gently unfold downwards into place, covering the windows and giving shade to your luxury accommodation. This is just one of the hundreds of details which makes St. Regis Istanbul the city's most decadent and lavish hotel. stregis.com/istanbul

W ISTANBUL If you’re looking to inject some glitz and disco into your trip, make W Istanbul your home for the weekend. Housed within a row of gorgeous 1870s Ottoman houses - which have been painstakingly restored and enhanced with ultramodern east-meets-west décor W Istanbul is situated in an exceptional location, within easy reach of everywhere you may want to go, in the city's historic Akaretler district on the European side. When W Istanbul opened just over six years ago, it spearheaded the transformation of this neighbourhood into a high-end arty shopping district, and it's now filled with restaurants, cafés and art & design galleries. A few minutes walk down the hill is the transportation hub of Beşiktaş, where the avenue along the European shore meets Barbaros Bulvarı, the main thoroughfare inland, westward towards Istanbul's business district. This intersection is right next to the dock serving countless ferries that constantly crisscross the Bosphorus to Üsküdar on the Asian shore. Dolmabahçe Palace is 5 minutes walk from the hotel, and a little further on you can hop on a tram directly (without changing lines) to Hagia Sophia, The Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace just a 10- minute ride away. A 5-minute taxi drive up the hill from the hotel and you'll find

yourself in upscale Nişantaşi and every designer boutique a shopping addict could wish for.

Throughout the hotel the hip chain’s New York influence is loud and proud, from the award-winning W Lounge - the hotel’s music, drinking and eating heart, which regularly hosts international big-name DJs - through to the 134 rooms and suites. Exposed brickwork, large rugs, comfy chairs in all shapes and sizes and an earthy colour scheme make W Istanbul a slick yet comfortable place to hang out in the day, and a fashionable yet fun locale for a cocktail in the evening. The hotel’s funky rooms range from Wonderful through to Mega and Marvelous, plus an array of party-styled suites, to which it would be criminal not to invite friends over. The Extreme Wow Suite even has it's own DJ booth! Some rooms come with private patio cabanas for secluded sunbathing or bijou private gardens ideal for a romantic rendezvous. In winter book a Fabulous room with a terrace and skylights. All sport mega-comfy pillow-top beds, high-tech gadgetry and slick baths furnished with rain showers and Bliss toiletries. www.wistanbul.com.tr

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WOW Suite W Istanbul

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Starwood's W Hotels were born slap bang in the

middle of the internet revolution, launching with the W New York (49th St. and Lexington Ave.) which opened its doors in December 1998. W’s founder, Barry Sternlicht (CEO of Starwood Hotels 1995 2005), broke the mold when he launched the brand.

He was clever enough to realise, in the mid 90s, that the cluster of hotels being touted in New York as boutique and lifestyle (most of which belonged to Ian Schrager), were the beginning of a whole new aspirational designer hospitality sector. Literally overnight, W changed the hotel industry forever, by proving the demand for design-conscious guest experiences among the mainstream traveling public.

Its success drove the development of more than a dozen new properties opening in colourful destinations - including Los Angeles, Chicago and Seoul - in the chain's first few years of operation, popularising the lifestyle hotel concept and creating a hospitality status symbol. There are very few examples of a hotel brand which has such high brand awareness as W. Before long W joined an elite group of brands that people trust and are wholly loyal to.

Whilst on a slightly smaller scale, W is very much in the same league as Apple and Virgin, and like its super-brand cousins, there have been changes in the hospitality industry as a result of W. You only need to look at the number of entrants into the lifestyle hotels segment since W Hotels launched. Amongst others, Hyatt now has Andaz and Marriott now has The Edition. What makes W unique is that that none of Starwood's competitors have been able to replicate the W brand's huge worldwide success, popularity and awareness. W still stands alone with its contemporary, informal positioning in the luxury hotel arena.

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My first experience of a W was the Seoul-Walkerhill outpost - the brand’s first foray into the Asia Pacific market - which opened in 2002. Seoul-Walkerhill is an incredible property, owed largely to the fact that it was purpose designed and built from the ground up, at huge expense, and glamorously launched with much fanfare during a 2-day party to which some 2,500 guests were invited. W Seoul-Walkerhill fully embodies the W DNA and optimally showcases the brand's legs.

Since then I have visited numerous W properties around the world. Those I have enjoyed the most are hotels where the brand's DNA has been more thoughtfully and cleverly executed. One might say the less brash and more sophisticated W hotels. Some I have visited have been a bit too crazy for my seasoned taste. The skillfulness of the execution of the W brand obviously cascades through to a hotel's rooms and suites. The rooms at most W hotels function beautifully, whilst at some the design has overtaken functionality. At one particular W I stayed at, the bathroom sink was in the middle of the room as part of a breakfast bar-type set-up, and the toilet and shower were hidden behind wardrobe doors. Whilst space is usually at a premium in city center locations, this level of compromise was a step too far, even for me.

In creating W Istanbul, which opened in 2008, Starwood appears to have harked back to its early New York roots, when authentic characterful buildings were transformed with slick decor, designer furnishings, modern technology and moody colour schemes, into utterly unique yet comfortable and inviting edgy hotels. The early W hotels were warm and welcoming as well as being cutting edge and fashionable. This same ethos is evident in W Istanbul Europe’s first W - carved from a historical row of

handsome Akaretier houses, erected in 1875 under the reign of Sultan Abdulaziz as living quarters for high ranking officers of the Dolmabahce Palace. Back then these houses were a symbol of the magnificence of the 19th-century Ottoman Empire. Nowadays they symbolize 21st-century designer hospitality. There’s some poetry in this modern day use of such important buildings, and none of this historical gravitas has been lost by W Istanbul, I’m pleased to say. The hotel is awash with images of iconic Istanbul landmarks hinting at the art and relics of the golden age.

Ottoman art, Asian treasures and exotic touches have been combined with ultra-modern detailing, rich textures, distinctive fabrics, laser-cut metalwork and custom furnishings, to create a rich and lux place to hangout, and a calm yet exciting stay experience.

My home for a long summer weekend in the city was the hotel’s 105 m² WOW Suite, fashioned by renowned Turkish designer, Mahmut Anlar. An airy duplex complete with a separate mezzanine-level bedroom with electric skylights above the in-room spa bath, huge walk-through shower, king size four-poster bed,

seven-metre high ceilings, two balconies overlooking the street, full-size dining table, butler’s kitchen with separate entrance, ear shatteringly loud Bang & Olufsen sound system and sofas big and comfy enough to lie flat on - the suite looked a lot less inviting on paper than it did in the flesh. Once through the door I quickly felt like I was at home, which is a rarity for me when staying at a hotel, particularly in a large suite. I literally moved-in within a couple of hours and would have been blissfully happy to spend the next few days pottering around, enjoying the suite’s facilities, living on room service and listening to loud music. Had it not been my virgin weekend in Istanbul (and had a friend not been staying in a room down the corridor), I would probably have done just that, such was the coziness of the suite and the perfect balance it struck between luxury, functionality, high-end design and comfort. It felt like my own deluxe apartment sanctuary away from the wild metropolis outside.

The service during my stay matched the feel of the WOW Suite and was personal, friendly, sincere and slick throughout, a testament to GM Christian Hoehn

“NOT JUST A THEATRE VENUE AND MUCH MORE THAN A CLUB” Pop, Oriental, African, Indian, Latino, Russian, Rumba, Rock, RnB, Bel Canto, Ethno, Jazz, Flamenco, Reggae, Fusion, Gipsy...

Jumeirah, Zabeel Saray, Dubai, UAE. +971 56 270 8670 / +971 4 447 6646 Starco Center, Omar Daouk Street, Downtown Beirut, Lebanon. + 961 1 371 236

and his energetic team who were keen to please at every opportunity. This even extended to WhatsApp’ing and calling me, when away from base camp, to check that I had reached my destination. One day when I was lunching outside the hotel, and lunch turned to cocktails/dinner, a W Insider (basically a young, streetwise turbo-charged concierge), guided by me on the phone, picked an outfit from my suite, bagged it up and taxi’d it to me 30 minutes across town. The taxi wasn’t even added to my bill. There are not many hotels, in this day and age, which could execute such a manoeuvre without coming a cropper.

Istanbul may very well be the only W hotel which effortlessly juxtapositions contemporary designer accommodation within a historic building at the epicentre of one of the world’s most happening cities, with five star service, style, fun and attention to detail.

And we all know that the devil is in the details.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in the WOW Suite in July 2015.

In October & November 2015 the nightly rate for the WOW Suite is EUR 3,500 inclusive of breakfast excluding taxes. www.wistanbul.com.tr 43

THE AIRLINE BLACKLIST One would be forgiven for believing - in light of the plethora of high-profile airplane incidents splashed across the news of late - that getting on a plane nowadays is more risky than before, especially with fully-laden aircraft mysteriously going missing. In a world where a layman's location can be pinpointed by a cell phone or basic GPS-enabled device, a huge Boeing 777 vanishing without trace does beg the question as to why an airline cannot be tracked when it is over one of earth's many seas and oceans. Until MH370 disappeared, I for one was under the impression that someone somewhere was always aware of the precise location of the plane I was sitting in. Now of course I know different, as do millions of air travellers around the world, and people are understandably concerned. A poll conducted by CNN last year, found that one in ten Americans believed that "space aliens, time travellers or beings from another dimension" were involved in the disappearance of MH370. Some even believed that the debris found washed-up on the tiny volcanic island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean was faked, planted by the Malaysian government to give the passengers' families some measure of closure, and allow the airline more time to find the lost plane.

In December 2014 all 162 people aboard AirAsia Flight 8501 were killed when the plane stalled and plummeted into the Java Sea, as it ran into stormy weather on its way from Surabaya, Indonesia's second-largest city, to Singapore. In June 2015, a 50-year old military transport crashed into a residential street in Medan, Indonesia, just minutes after

IN BRIEF CHANGI AIRPORT'S NEW JEWEL Named SkyTrax World's Best Airport for the third consecutive year, Project Jewel is likely to cement Changi's reputation as the best airport experience on the planet. It's futuristic new complex,

taking off, killing 140 people. In the immediate aftermath, Indonesian President, Joko Widodo, said, "Following several plane crashes, we should conduct a total audit and modernise the old planes". Including the crash on 16 August 2015 of another Indonesian flight, Trigana Air TGN257, when 54 people lost their lives, five fatal domestic air passenger incidents were suffered by Asian carriers in a 12-month period. Given this statistic, we should obviously be investigating more closely the airlines we plan to use before buying a ticket, rather than booking the best fares on-line and worrying about the carrier later. The consumers mantra “buyer beware”, or Caveat Emptor, does not appear to be instilled in air travellers quite as much as high street shoppers. Since our lives are at stake when we get on a

EUROPEAN COMMISSION

Jewel Changi Airport, is likely to revolutionise terminal design and raise the international airport bar yet further.

The massive doughnut-like glass structure of 10 storeys - five above ground and five beneath - will house retail, entertainment and leisure outlets, as well as multi-level gardens, walking trails, playgrounds and the Jewel's own 130-room hotel operated by YOTEL. At its centrepiece will be a 40-metre high "rain vortex" waterfall, cascading from the roof of the glass dome through the centre of the terminal, which at night will transform into a dramatic sound and light show.

Ground was broken in December 2014 and Jewel Changi Airport is scheduled for completion in 2018. www.jewelchangiairport.com

AIRBUS OPENS ALABAMA FACTORY Toulouse-based aircraft manufacturer, Airbus, has formally opened its new USD600 million narrow body factory facility, at the Mobile Aeroplex in Alabama, USA, where the industry-leading family of A319s, A320s and A321s will be made. A skilled team of more than 250 Airbus manufacturing employees are already working at the plant on the first American-made Airbus aircraft, an A321, which will be delivered to JetBlue Airways in the second quarter of 2016.

Given that Airbus forecasts demand over the next two decades of some 4,700 single-aisle aircraft in North America alone (from all manufacturers), the airline 44

plane (I’ve never heard of someone dying while picking out a suit), surely we should look more closely at an airline’s track record before rushing into book a flight.

If you’re anything like me, I am so caught-up in the excitement of making a flight booking, that rarely do I double check the carrier’s credentials or safety history.

Granted I practically always use well known airlines. But from time-to-time I find myself on the tarmac, about to climb some slightly rickety steps onto a plane with propellers, wondering why I was not aware that I’d be putting my life in the hands of a turboprop rather than a modern jetliner. What I didn’t know until recently, is that there’s an official blacklist of airlines deemed unsafe for flying, drawn up by the European Commission. It’s not a short list, it has been in existence for almost a decade, and was started in March 2006 in a bid to implement a uniform approach to airline safety. The list is updated twice a year and is based on deficiencies found during checks at European airports, the use of antiquated aircraft by airlines and shortcomings by non-EU airline regulators.

Airlines on the blacklist are banned from operating in European airspace, because they were found to be unsafe and/or they are not sufficiently overseen by the relevant authorities. Most of Indonesia’s commercial airlines are on the blacklist. 59 of Indonesia’s 63 airlines, to be precise, are banned from flying in EU airspace. That’s every airline in the country except Garuda Indonesia, Airfast Indonesia, Ekspres Transportasi Antarbenua and Indonesia Air Asia.

No other country has so many carriers banned from operating in Europe. Even the country’s largest budget carrier, Lion Air, is on the list, making those bargain bucket flights from Bali to Singapore a lot less attractive. Trigana Air Service, which commenced operations in 1991, has been involved in 20 serious safety incidents since 1992,

estimates that by 2018 its Alabama facility will be churning out 40 - 50 planes per year. www.airbus.com

VIPs LAND FIRST AT HEATHROW VIPs and high-value passengers landing before the rest of us is on the horizon. Technological advances in air traffic control may soon be able to tell controllers at London's Heathrow, who currently handle around 6,000 flights every day, how many passengers need to make a connecting flight, giving controllers discretion to allow certain airliners access to a fast lane. A flight's landing status could even be influenced by, for example, how many premium level frequent flyer members or high-paying customers are on board, or a flight laden with important first class passengers. This could of course spawn a whole host of premium landing services and, in time, perhaps even a new class of air travel into the British capital.

AIR INDIA GROUNDS FLABBY CREW India's national carrier, which currently employs more than 3,000 cabin crew members, has asked 125 of its flight attendants to lose a few pounds or prepare themselves for an airport job on the ground. The decision follows fitness guidelines laid out by India's civil aviation regulator. Last year the regulator mandated a body mass index (BMI) of 18 - 25 for male cabin crew and 18 - 22 for female cabin crew. Men with higher BMIs

PHILIPPINE AIRLINES

nine of which resulted in the total loss of the aircraft.

Unsurprisingly Trigana is on the EU blacklist, along with all airlines from twenty countries which are completely banned within the EU. These include Afghanistan (little surprise there), the Democratic Republic of Congo, Liberia, Mozambique, Nepal, Sudan and Zambia. Until very recently all but a couple of Filipino carriers were on the blacklist, but the European Union has recently lifted its ban on Philippines-based carriers, allowing them to return to EU skies for the first time in five years.

Despite the 8 serious accidents and incidents involving commercial aircraft so far this year, resulting in the loss of 247 lives, one thing remains unchanged. According to statistics your airplane ride is probably going to be the safest part of the journey when a flight is part of your itinerary. The act of hurtling through the air at 500 mph six miles above the ground is less likely to result in your demise than almost any other type of travel.

Click here to see the list of carriers which are banned from operating within the EU. Nicholas Chrisostomou

were classified as overweight and a possible inflight safety issue.

According to a Times of India report, a large number of Air India employees refused to undergo medical examinations, ordered by the company in 2013, to establish their BMIs. Instead they asked the airline to pay for gym memberships before conducting any lab tests. The airline insists the move to manage its employees' physiques is not about appearances.

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No Shoes Required

Deputy Editor Kalia Michaelides is left feeling pampered and revitalised, inside and out, by a short visit to a luxe Vietnamese beach resort

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ietnam is all about the contrast between the bustling chaos of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, where motorbikes rule the streets, and the country's beach retreats set on pristine unspoilt stretches of golden sands lapped by the South China Sea. Vietnam still feels like a place of calmness and quiet exploration. Kind of an undiscovered

secret, with a range of refined beach resorts echoing this.

With many of the hospitality industry's most upscale brands represented in this small socialist republic, and more than 2,000 miles of coastline stretching from north to south, there are plenty of divine retreats to choose from.

Located on the banks of the graceful Hoai (also known as

Thu Bon) River - in Quang Nam province 30 kilometers south of Da Nang - Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage town with a captivating classic oriental aura, which despite weathering a few centuries of history and change, still remains as magically preserved as when it was born. Before its spice-trading heyday, the town was a major port of the ancient Cham Kingdom between the 7th - 10th centuries, its success largely due to its accessible location. During the period of intense Chinese trading, Hai Pho (Sea Town) as it was then called in Vietnamese, was a divided town, with the Japanese settlement of the 16th - 17th centuries located across the wooden Japanese bridge. Many Chinese and Japanese married Vietnamese women, built houses, erected temples and assembly halls in their native styles. A number of these beautiful specimens remain today. From the 17th - 19th century, the town was a magnet for Southeast Asian commerce, drawing European, Chinese and Japanese merchants who sailed down the river to trade silks, medicines, porcelain, oils and spices during spring fairs. Then it was known to the French and Spanish as Faifo, an international port city. Because the river silted up in the 19th century nearly all of the traders moved on, but many of the town's Chinese residents remained. Renamed Hoi An in 1954, the town that we travellers see today, is essentially a grid of streets lined with colourful, preserved timber frame buildings, running parallel to the river. The town has a natural life, energy and joie de vivre which is very different to the north of the country, and continues to be occupied and function as a trading port albeit on a smaller scale than it’s historic past.

Five minutes by taxi from Hoi An and just 20 minutes’ drive from Da Nang international airport, positioned on Ha My Beach on Vietnam’s central coast, The Nam Hai envelopes its residents with Asian-fusion luxury at every turn. I say "residents" because one feels like so much more than a common or garden guest when staying here. The Nam Hai is an experience rather than a mere resort. A place to retreat to when you just need to "be". The minute I set foot on Nam Hai soil, I was transported into a serene environment of understated luxury, which begun with a warm welcome by cheery staff attired in calm tones, who all seemed naturally resolute to make my stay as pleasurable as possible. With no further ado, I was whisked in a buggy through the meandering grounds to my nha ruong (garden house in Vietnamese), which was to be my retreat for the next few days. My excitement grew as we drew closer to the house’s inconspicuous entrance, which, once inside, revealed an elevated, spacious living room, boasting stunning, unobstructed views towards the ocean over a tranquil private pool, crowned with a dramatic vaulted ceiling of rich, dark mahogany. The décor was minimal and sophisticated in a contemporary Asian style.

Outdoors was just as splendid, with manicured lawns dotted with palms giving way to a white sandy beach and the blue sea beyond. The idyllic combination of the smell of frangipani, the sound of the waves, the touch of grains of hot sand between my toes and the taste of chilled champagne lifted my spirits and soothed my mind. I was most certainly on holiday now.

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A personal butler, never more than the touch of a button away, showed me to my place of slumber, which was a beautifully calming stand-alone bedroom - in a separate pavilion half a dozen paces from the living pavilion. At its centrepiece was a huge bed on a stepped platform, surrounded by curtains cascading to the floor. Just in front was an oversized sunken bath laden with rose petals, surrounded by sweetly scented candles and phalaenopsis.

The main bathroom was a luxe and airy affair underneath a soaring ceiling, with one wall completely open to nature.

Breakfasts, lunches, dinners (and even nibbles in between), were all taken in my delightfully calming seaside retreat, such was the level of my contentment and wellbeing. The

only time I strayed from my tranquil base was to venture to Nam Hai’s renowned spa, which I couldn’t resist visiting twice during my three-night stay. Back home I wouldn’t dream of getting on a two-wheeled contraption, but here I peddled to the spa on a hotel bike. Just the once. Pages could be written about the incredible spa at The Nam Hai, but that would spoil the surprise should you ever be lucky enough to visit yourself. Suffice to say that it was one of the most enjoyable spa treatments ever. A truly harmonious experience, which equalised my mind and body and left me feeling pampered and revitalised, inside and out, an emotion echoed throughout my stay at Nam Hai, one of the few hotels to ever truly bewitch me. www.ghmhotels.com

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SPOTLIGHT

LAHORE

Claudia Avila-Batchelor takes us on a tour of the culturally & architecturally rich Pakistani city of Lahore

L

ahore may not be on the top of your list for an Asian travel escape but it should be. A string of conquerors, most notably the Mughals, built the mosques, fortifications, roads and palaces which, by the 18th century, had turned Lahore, once a trading town on a branch of the silk route, into a stunning example of imperial prestige. With a population of 10 million, Pakistan’s second largest city has a very special atmosphere and is an intensely visual delight, overflowing with a unique empirical legacy, coupled with an artistic and musical history steeped in age-old traditions. With two UNESCO world heritage sites - Lahore Fort and Shalimar Gardens - plus more than 200 historical and archeological hotspots, this is a spectacular metropolis to immerse yourself in fascinating ancient and architectural experiences.

Some of Asia’s most important empires - including the Sikhs, Mughals and Ghaznavids - ruled the city between the 11th and 19th centuries, influencing Lahore’s development and sealing her sociological and political importance in Asia.

The city of Lahore was developed by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jaha along the same lines as the city of Agra in India.

Some would say that the Mosque and Fort Of Agra are copies of Badshahi Mosque and Lahore Fort. Add the presence of the Punjabis under the British Raj during the mid 19th and early 20th centuries, and you have a captivating mélange of architectural, culinary and culturally diverse opportunities to indulge in. Traces of the colonial period are imprinted on many of the city’s prominent buildings, including the railway station, museum and high court, to name but a few. If the Mughals contributed to Lahore’s 52 The Cultured Traveller October/December 2015

architectural glory, the British contributed to the city’s cultural and intellectual expansion. The influence of the British can also be seen in the many palaces and gardens that are scattered throughout the city. Shalimar Gardens and Bagh-e-Jinnah (formerly Lawrence Garden) are particularly beautiful spots to visit and absorb the energy of Lahore.

Whilst Islamabad is more cosmopolitan and developed, Lahore is exciting and enticing in a bohemian way. The city feels a lot more intimate and tightly populated, with large tent cities clinging to its outskirts.

Being less expensive than the capital, more people gravitate towards Lahore, from all over the country, seeking work and opportunities. As in any other global metropolis there is a constant coming and going of people. This transience makes for a more vivacious atmosphere, with new eateries, galleries and music venues opening at a fast pace to satisfy the demands of recently gentrified areas. Such as the city’s notorious red-light district, Heera Mandi (or the Diamond Market), now fast morphing into a hip restaurant and shopping area.

SLEEP The Nishat The deluxe Nishat hotel, part of the St. James Collection, is situated in the heart of the city’s vibrant nightlife district. Offering up-to-date amenities, a relaxed ambiance and contemporary-designed rooms, all within walking distance of many of Lahore’s best restaurants and shopping. www.nishathotel.com Lahore Country & Sports Club For a more quiet and rural feel, away from the city’s hustle and bustle, the Lahore Country & Sports Club has been a favourite of seasoned travellers for many years. Its 100 acres of lush green gardens cocoon guests into a sense of residing on a colonial-style farm, and countless recreational sports are available on site, including horse riding, fishing, badminton and tennis. www.lahorecountryclub.com LOHARI GATE ͳ WALLED CITY

The heart of Lahore lies within the fabled Walled City, a bustling and densely packed architectural gem. With its ancient mosques, fortifications, gardens and palaces, the Walled City has long been one of Pakistan's historical jewels.

Most of the city’s 4 km encircling wall and 12 gates were built during the Mughal era, but time, neglect and illegal commercial activity have taken the shine off Lahore’s major tourist attraction. Despite intense resistance from street vendors, developers and local mafia, an ambitious project launched in 2013 and funded by the Punjab Government and World Bank, hopes to restore Lahore's oldest neighbourhood to its former glory (www.walledcitylahore.gop.pk). Whilst the battlements that gave the Walled City its name - largely demolished by the British following the rebellion against their rule in India in 1857 - will not be rebuilt, a short stretch which remains will be restored. It will be interesting to see in years to come, how the Walled City restoration project fares in a local climate so resistant to change.

Perhaps because of the vast range of influencing rulers, Lahore is referred to as the cultural heart of Pakistan and the bookish powerhouse of the country, as most of the

SHALIMAR GARDENS

publishers and literary intelligentsia are based here. Almost all of the country’s art, music, film making, fashion, culinary and other festivals are held in this city. Its close proximity to the Indian city of Amritsar, a very important seat of Sikh history and culture, has fuelled the blossoming of hundreds of temples, mosques, shrines and other religious places of worship, due to the large number of Sikhs, Hindus, Muslim, Christians and other spiritual people living side by side.

During the period of British rule, a teahouse was established in 1940 by the Progressive Writer’s Association, located at the bank of Mall Road towards Neela Gumbad, Anarkali. The teahouse was originally named “India Tea House”, and people from different walks of life and schools of thought started sitting there.

Once a dreamland and a house of thinkers, writers and revolutionists, today’s Pak Tea House is still an important cultural and historical meeting place. The city’s intellectual elite and young non-conformist thinkers continue to gather here, and it’s a great place to visit, sit, talk to locals and share a cuppa with some of Pakistan’s creative and literary minds.

PAK TEA HOUSE

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GAWALMANDI FOOD STREET

TASTE & SIP Cuckoo’s Den Guests climb a narrow staircase to Cuckoo’s Den’s fourth-floor rooftop, where food is served on two open terraces. Cuckoo’s boasts authentic Lahori food, fantastic vistas, and - being flanked on one side by the Badshahi Mosque and Lahore’s red light district on the other - is a great place to people watch. This was my second visit, after my first five years ago, and I left with the belief that Cuckoo’s is still one of my favourite restaurants in the world. Reservations essential. https://m.facebook.com/cuckoosden Red Lotus Nestled within the Hospitality Inn hotel, Red Lotus without doubt serves the best Chinese food in the city. Managed and staffed by ex-pats, this is the real deal in a country one would not expect to find such culinary excellence. www.hospitalityinnlahore.com Chameleon One of Royal Palm club’s venues, Chameleon offers live music and delicious Asian/Pakistani fusion cuisine together with wine, beers and imported spirits. The art deco feel of the place transports you back to the days of colonial sensuality as you walk through the door. Foreigners and non-Muslims are able to purchase alcohol here. www.rpgcc.com

A proliferation of shopping malls opening in recent years has made Lahore a very fashionable place to visit, and whilst local cuisines very much dominate, alongside the malls there has been an explosion of international restaurants. Sadly these include the globalised franchises of most US fast food chains. In order to combat this, there has been a resurgence of traditional street food outlets housed in Havelis - carefully restored residential dwellings. Examples of the many different types of food outlets, new and traditional shopping malls and bazaars, are concentrated along the MM Alam Road in Gulberg, and the areas around Gadaffi Stadium and Fortress Stadium.

For those wishing to absorb more local culture, exploring the richly scented spice market within the Walled City is multi-sensory bliss. From brightly coloured food enhancers to downright bizarre medicinal cures (died corn-on-the-cob hair for kidney ailments!), this is worth an hour or two of your time and a photographic treat. Gawalmandi Food Street is where you will come across locals munching late into the night, since the multitude of restaurants and cafes are open 24/7, except during Ramadan when food is

TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS Perched on a plateau two thousand metres above sea level facing the plunging gorges and dramatic rock formations of Oman’s Green Mountain, Alila Jabal Akhdar has been designed to sit in perfect harmony with its breathtaking location. This unique destination is a sanctuary dedicated to the peace and splendour of the mountain and the serenity it has to offer.

As temperatures drop the summer haze clears and immaculate blue sky days are followed by crystal clear nights awash with the brightest stars. Take advantage of the perfect winter climate and make a luxuriously spacious suite your home from which to explore the beautiful and fascinating interior regions of the Sultanate.

Or simply unwind in the elegant haven of Spa Alila and indulge in a culinary experience which embraces the best of Omani and international cuisine.

For reservations email: jabalakhdar@alilahotels.com Like us on

www.facebook.com/alilajabalakhdar

www. al i l ahotel s. c o m

GAWALMANDI FOOD STREET

churned out post sunset only. This is the heart of Pakistani food culture, and the Persian and Kashmiri architecture add a touch of old world panache to the setting. Huge open barbecues waft mouth-watering aromas throughout the area and it’s hard not to be tempted to try something. Be adventurous! The restaurants all serve the same types of food and are usually all packed, so there’s no need to seek one out over the other. That said, some of the chefs make a whole performance of chopping up meats over the grill, singing and entertaining customers as they cook.

In spite of the country’s dry status, nightlife is very much on a par with most other international cities of many millions, albeit in a non-alcoholic way. Clubs playing the latest national and international tunes, late night cafes and bars attract a youthful and friendly crowd, with flavoured shisha the social icebreaker rather than liquor. Much of the city’s nightlife happens around Gulberg, Gadaffi Stadium and Fortress Stadium.

With the region’s fast and radical growth and progress continuing day by day, and the new and very modern aspects of the city complimenting well its antiquity-based historical structures, Pakistan’s second city is well worth a visit. If you happen to be travelling in this part of Asia you will be pleasantly surprised at the riches you will unearth in Lahore.

BAGHͳEͳJINNAH ΈFORMERLY LAWRENCE GARDENΉ

LAHORE MUSEUM

VISIT Hira Mandi Once a notorious no-go area, the traditional red light quarter of Lahore is home to Iqbal Hussain, artist and owner of Cuckoo’s Den. Hussain was largely responsible for initiating the wave of gentrification in the area. The son of a courtesan, he painted many of his neighbours in all their glory, the byproduct being that his works attracted the attention of the Pakistani elite, followed by the international crowd. As a result, the red light district has now become a chic neighbourhood with top restaurants, live music, art galleries and antique shops. Visually stunning and next to the Badshahi Mosque, a trip here will leave your cultural and epicurean taste buds truly satisfied.

Lahore Polo Club Pakistanis are avid sports fans and after cricket polo is another of their passion points. Played for millennia by kings, Mughuls, emperors and commoners alike, a visit to Lahore could include an afternoon chukka or two at this deluxe club, which is one of the oldest in the world. The club’s main field is called the "Aibak Ground" in remembrance of the 13th Century King of Delhi, Sultan Qutabuddin Aibak, who died in 1210 when his horse fell while playing polo in Lahore. www.lahorepoloclub.com

DON’T MISS Badshahi Mosque Commissioned by the sixth Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, this staggeringly beautiful architectural wonder is not to be missed.

Constructed between 1671 and 1673, Badshadi Mosque is the second largest in South Asia, the fifth largest in the world and can hold up to 100,000 worshippers. www.lahoretourism.net Wazir Khan Mosque Less than 2 kms from Badshahi, located in the eastern side of Lahore’s Old City, Wazir Khan Mosque is a unique example of Mughal architecture. Built during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, construction began in 1634 and the mosque took 7 years to build. The mosque is almost entirely decorated with glazed tile mosaics, which miraculously survived from the Mughal period. www.lahoretourism.net Lahore Museum Designed by famed architect Sir Ganga Ram and established since 1865, Lahore’s is the biggest museum in Pakistan. Its grand entrance, framed by a white marble portico, provides the accent to a picturesque Anglo-Mughal ensemble. Rudyard Kipling's father, John Lockwood Kipling, was one of the museum’s earliest and most famous curators. The 2 Gandhara galleries and 3 Hindu Buddhist Jain galleries are a must see. www.lahoremuseum.org 57

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Keen traveller and dedicated foodie, Gordon Hickey, discovers that Australia’s second largest city is an artistic melting pot and gastronomic heaven

W

hen people mention Australia - Sydney, the Gold Coast and the Great Barrier Reef immediately spring to mind. One place that often gets over looked is Australia’s second largest city and the capital of the state of Victoria, Melbourne. Tucked away in the southern most coast of the mainland, Melbourne is like the more sophisticated sister to loud, brash and glam Sydney.

Regularly appearing near the top of lists ranking the world’s most livable cities says a lot about Melbourne’s efficiency, cleanliness and safety, and the city’s creative artsy energy is evident everywhere, from street art and cool bars to funky boutiques and buzzing cafés.

ONE OF MELBOURNE'S MANY HIDDEN LANEWAYS

On first arrival in Melbourne you quickly get a sense that the city is bursting with life. Journeying into the city by taxi takes you on elevated motorways, decorated with abstract art installations, offering sweeping views of the city’s fantastic skyline. The center is flat and easily navigable thanks to the grid system on which the city was planned. The Yarra River flows through the middle of the metropolis, dividing the city into two halves, north and south.

Yarra Trams operates Melbourne's iconic tramway network and the city’s trains, trams and buses are an easy way to see all of the best sights. All you need is a myki card which can be purchased at most hotel concierge desks. Earlier this year a free tram zone was introduced to Melbourne CBD which includes the area from the iconic Queen Victoria Market, across to Victoria Harbour in Docklands, up to Spring Street and over to Flinders Street Station and Federation Square. Travelling on trams within the boundaries of this area is completely free.

So where to start? If you’re a bit of a caffeine junkie like me, be sure to take a stroll down to Flinders Court, a narrow alley close to the yellow façade of Flinders Street Station. Begin a day of October/December 2015 The Cultured Traveller 59

FLINDERS COURT

exploring the bustling city by sipping on a coffee, for which Melbourne is famed, and watching its inhabitants march by.

Melbourne boasts some of the best coffee shops in the world and this street is packed full of hole-in-the-wall cafés that will serve you a flat white or frothy cappuccino, accompanied by some of the tastiest treats the Aussies have to offer. Once loaded with caffeine you’ll need to burn off some energy and Flinders Street is the perfect launch-pad. It’s one of the city’s narrow back alleys and service roads, known locally as laneways. These colourful lanes, decorated with street art, are a fantastic place to wander and get a feel for Melbourne’s grity, creative side. Graffiti and one-off art projects bring these urban art galleries to life with a veritable kaleidoscope of vibrant colours. Hipsters hang out and drink coffee as artists add their unique signatures to what have been council approved dedicated art spaces for over 10 years. Eye-catching murals cover walls and blend into one another in what is one of the most striking collections of urban culture you’re likely to see anywhere on the planet. Most impressive are Hosier Lane and Rutledge Lane where nearly everything - from the pavement to the windows - is covered in murals and other artistic expressions.

From Flinders, do some window-shopping or treat yourself to something fancy from one of the many luxury brands that call Collins Street home. Gucci, Armani and Prada all have glossy stores on this beautiful tree-lined street. For travellers who prefer high street to high end, Little Collins Street is just around the corner, boasting all the world’s well-known brands. It’s easy to wile away an afternoon by strolling about this part of town since

MELBOURNE STAR

the area its relatively flat. Do stop for a bite in one of the many funky restaurants here.

At almost 300 meters high, Eureka Tower (www.eurekaskydeck.com.au) is the tallest building in Melbourne and a visit to its 88th floor viewing deck, the highest in the southern hemisphere, is a must. From here you can gaze down on the city in all its glory. Those who enjoy an extreme thrill must try the Edge Experience. Everything seems normal on walking into a smoked glass box, until the attendant closes the door, then the room in which you are standing slowly starts to move and protrude out of the building. Soon the smoked glass becomes clear glass, and the only thing separating you and the pavement hundreds of metres below, is a 4-inch pane of glass. Definitely not for the faint hearted! If you need a stiff drink after this, there’s no shortage of choices on the Southbank Promenade close by. Grab a pint of Guinness in PJ O’Briens (+61 3 9686 5011) or the Hophaus (+61 3 9682 5900) is a cool and contemporary bar, serving modern German dishes, boasting stunning views of the Yarra. Finish off the night with a few rotations on the city’s giant 400m Ferris wheel, the Melbourne Star, located in the Waterfront City district (www.melbournestar.com).

Kick off day two of your Melbourne adventure in South Yarra, one of city’s more affluent suburbs, where you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing where to brekkie. Toorak Road especially is packed with cafés and eateries that serve fine fare.

From here browse the boutiques in Chapel Street then take a short

"Journeying into the city by taxi takes you on elevated motorways, decorated with abstract art installations, offering sweeping views of the city’s fantastic skyline."

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YARRA RIVER

EDGE EXPERIENCE

EUREKA TOWER

Pierre Koffman Eileen Atkins

Marianne Faithfull

Dennis Potter

Mick Jagger

Sienna Miller Peter Blake Danny La Rue

The Beatles Sam Smith Marco Pierre White Nigel Havers

Eartha Kit Imelda Staunton

Joe Orton

Kenneth Halliwell

Peter CookElton Joh Dudley Moore

Paloma Faith Coco Chanel Beryl Cook

Francis Bacon

Frankie Howard

Edward Heath Cleo Laine

Lucien Freud Diana Judi Dench General de Gualle

Ella Fitzgerald Janis Joplin

Laurence Olivier

Stephen Fry Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution Since 1927 Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant & Club Privé

L’ ESCARGOT Depuis 1927

Monday to Sunday: All day until 1am

• 48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA

" Most impressive are Hosier Lane

and Rutledge Lane where nearly everything - from the pavement to the windows - is covered in murals and other artistic expressions."

62

taxi ride or hop on a tram to the laid-back bayside suburb of St Kilda. This beachfront district is a hive of activity on a sunny day and the perfect place to spend a few hours in the glorious Australian sunshine on probably the city’s best beach. After soaking up some rays, head back in to the city and immerse yourself in some culture. The National Gallery of Victoria, on the south shores of the Yarra, is one of Melbourne’s cultural hotspots and features exhibits covering both Eastern and Western hemispheres, ancient and modern, fine and decorative arts (www.ngv.vic.gov.au). For a more tranquil moment, a stroll through the sprawling Royal Botanic Gardens, which bloom year round with wonderful flora, is a lovely place to recharge before a busy evening (www.rbg.vic.gov.au). During the summer these gardens are home to the city’s open-air Moonlight Cinema, which screens new movies alongside cult classics (www.moonlight.com.au/melbourne).

In Melbourne there are plenty of novel ways to fill an empty stomach! If you want to eat while on-the-go, take your seat on a Colonial Tramcar Restaurant, a fleet of converted tramcars which circle the city while serving delicious food. Choose from a small but well-balanced menu while sipping your way around the city’s streets (www.tramrestaurant.com.au). If you would prefer a more static dinner table, make a reservation at Attica, which was included in the world’s top 30 restaurants in 2013. Dining at Attica is a gastronomic delight (tasting menu AUD 220 + wines AUD 125) and a genuine Australian flavour runs through the menu, which includes red kangaroo and wallaby dishes paired with the finest wines from all corners of the country (www.attica.com.au).

If all that beautiful food and wine has left you feeling slightly criminal, keep an eye out for a pop up bar and gin tasting in Melboune Gaol. This historic venue is where notorious convict, Ned Kelly, spent his last days before being hanged in the 1880s.

Now it’s one of the coolest venues in Melbourne (www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au).

Finding luxury accommodation in Melbourne is not difficult. The deluxe Langham in the city’s Southbank, is just 10 mins walk from Collins Street’s designer shops, boasts rooms with views of the Yarra and a rooftop pool which is the perfect location to get your bearings and plan an exciting day while sipping on a cocktail (www.langhamhotels.com). Overlooking St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Fitzroy Gardens, the sophisticated Park Hyatt in the CBD offers some of the most spacious rooms in the city, is tastefully decorated and the hotel’s legendary afternoon tea is the city’s most elegant and popular (www.melbourne.park.hyatt.com). For somewhere a little funkier look no further than the Adelphi.

Claiming to be the world’s first “dessert hotel” this is a destination unto itself for those with a sweet tooth. The hotel’s designer, Fady Hachem, took inspiration from the world of confectionary when he created this boutique property, a stone’s throw from Flinders Station. The lobby is awash with delicious chocolate coloured furnishings while the smell of fresh baking constantly lingers in the air (www.adelphi.com.au).

After 48 hours in Melbourne (and a dessert or two at Adelphi) I’m sure you’ll come to the same conclusion as I, that Melbourne is the most exciting city down under for food. The gastronomic excitement coupled with Melbourne’s enormous artistic appeal, make Oz’s second city well worth visiting, but leave space for plenty of eating!

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TASTE &SI P MANDARIN GRILL & BAR HONG KONG Food Atmosphere

n a city loaded with top-notch restaurants, big name chefs and eateries bestowed with countless accolades, one is not short of choice when it comes to eating out.

Hong Kong boasts more than 60 Michelin-starred restaurants and uses this as a USP to attract aspiring foodies, discerning tourists and luxury travellers. But does the abundance of fancy restaurants mean that Hong Kong is a culinary mecca, or that top chefs feel they simply must have a presence in this prestigious city and gastronomic battlefield? Incognito Michelin inspectors must surely be constantly appraising the city’s eateries, to assess the quality of the food being served by restaurants included in the guide. This relentless stress cannot be good for Hong Kong’s executive chefs, who are no doubt under continual pressure to produce amazing food, concoct innovative dishes and introduce new menus, whilst all the time trying to keep the customers coming in. To survive in this environment - with so many other award-winning restaurants in close proximity and new establishments regularly opening and vying for your stars - must be tough. Making it into the guide is one

I

EXECUTIVE CHEF UWE OPOCENSKY

thing, but for a restaurant to retain its position year after year, whilst being scrutinised so intensely, has got to be hard work.

Mandarin Grill & Bar received its first Michelin star in 2009. Six years down the line it has maintained its position as one of the city’s top restaurants. Being positioned at number 3 on TripAdvisor, in a city of more than 5,000 restaurants including at least 100 which are famous throughout Asia, is no mean feat. Executive chef, Uwe Opocensky, has held the reins since 2007 and succeeded in elevating Mandarin Grill & Bar to the citywide glory it basks in today. Opocensky worked with world famous Swiss chef Anton Mosimann OBE, and was mentored by legendary Spanish chef Ferran Adrià of El Bulli fame.

During his time with Mosimann, Opocensky prepared dinners at Downing Street, Buckingham Palace and for the monarchs themselves when HM The Queen and HRH Prince Philip celebrated their golden wedding anniversary.

At Mandarin Grill & Bar, Opocensky produces progressive gastronomy (as he calls it) in a capricious, artistic style.

66 The Cultured Traveller October/December 2015

A T STE Located in Hong Kong’s iconic Mandarin Oriental Hotel and designed by Sir Terence Conran - himself a restaurateur - Mandarin Grill & Bar is an airy space of calming neutral tones and clean simple lines, with an open kitchen at its epicentre. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it is renowned as a location where movers, shakers and corporate high fliers partake of power lunches and close business deals. Hong Kong’s elite have all paraded through its hallowed doors. However none were in the restaurant the night I dined there, which made for very poor people watching. Apart from a small

SALMON AND CAVIAR

wedding party and maybe half a dozen other diners, the restaurant was disappointingly empty. There was not even background music to soften the place up. Despite the flat atmosphere and lack of ambience, service was brisk and attentive from the get go, and I wanted for nothing throughout the meal. Allowing Opocensky to suggest a tasting menu proved to be the best decision I could have possibly made. What followed was a gastronomic journey which awakened and delighted every facet of my palate.

A glass of Krug is always a welcome start to a dinner experience. Sadly mine was served in a wine glass which was rather shocking for a restaurant of this calibre.

Thankfully the amuse-bouche, of thinly sliced wagyu beef and a rainbow of radishes, was delicious and a confident start to the meal. Traditionally lobster sashimi is dropped in iced water before serving. Instead Opocensky uses chilled Krug, yuzu juice and a century old soy sauce, cleverly serving the finished sashimi in part of a sliced Krug bottle. The result was a delicate, tasty and visually beautiful appetiser. The meal continued with “Red Prawn”,

& SI P

a taco of nasturtium and sea urchin (both of which are personal favourites) accompanied by 32 Nebra amber-coloured beer. The combination was inspired and sensational tasting. The next course of salmon and caviar was of the same high standard, perfectly paired with a 2008 Pinot Blanc. In fact sommelier Kim Wong’s wine selections were spot on throughout and the passion for his craft palpable.

The restaurant’s Japanese tea ceremony, to cleanse the palate, redefined the functionality of the course and was a

welcome addition in between dishes. My main course of organic Welsh lamb was succulent and perfectly cooked, served with interesting interpretations of garlic, mustard seeds and onion purée, complimented by an excellent 2005 St. Émilion Grand Cru. The dessert finale of a Jamón ibérico, hanging on a stand surrounded by boxes of camembert, was dramatically wheeled-in. When Opocensky “carved” its true identity was revealed - the ham was chocolate ice cream and the cheese was scrumptious cake. The cheescake laced with hints of avocado worked very well indeed.

What was special about the meal was that each course shined independently of the others, by way of their unique composition, creativity, taste and abundance of flavours. Not to mention the flair with which each of Opocensky’s dishes was presented, every one a highly inventive piece of culinary artistry. Mandarin Bar & Grill is most definitely worthy of its Michelin star, it’s just a shame that the dining room wasn’t full of hungry diners eager to feast on Opocensky’s incredible cuisine.

BEEF - U.S., BRANDT, SHORT RIB, CUTLET, ARTICHOKE, GIROLLE

MANDARIN GRILL & BAR Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Uwe Opocensky Address: 1/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong Telephone: +852 2825 4004 Email: mohkg-grill@mohg.com Website: www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong Cuisine: Modern European Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30 (Mon - Fri) Dinner: 18:30 - 22:30 (Mon - Sat) & 18:30 - 21:30 (Sun)

Lunch price: 2 courses HKD 618 Dinner price: “Tasting Tour” HKD 1,688 + wines HKD 850 Ideal meal: “Gourmet Menu” HKD 1,888 + wines HKD 1,288 Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Children: No kids menu Credit cards: All major Parking: Valet, free for diners after 18:00 Reviewed by: Kalia Michaelides on 7 August 2015 for dinner

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

68

TASTE &SI P COYA LONDON Food Atmosphere

Few could have predicted just how quickly the Peruvian trend would take off in the British capital. Dozens of high-end Peruvian joints have sprung up in London over the past few years, with more on the way. Peru’s most famous chef, Gastón Acurio, will soon be opening a branch of his La Mar cevichería in swanky Mayfair.

F

Part of Arjun Waney’s portfolio of glitzy modern Japanese restaurants like Zuma and Roka, Coya opened close to Hyde Park Corner in late 2012. The concept has been so successful that Waney has since exported the brand to Dubai and Miami.

Housed in a grand Georgian building on Piccadilly, Coya is a veritable Peruvian food adventure in GB - a place to go for ceviche of sea bream or punchy tiraditos of yellowtail. David D'Almada designed the interior, which skillfully juxtaposes a rich Incan palette with modern metallic finishes and nods to a colonial past. The result is a rich, vibrant and dramatic restaurant which screams Latino glamour. The densely wooded bar area made me think of Machu Picchu. Behind a concealed door on the ground floor is a plush members club and bijou terrace.

The décor in the club is divine with a naughty louche edge. Downstairs the basement is open to the public and comprises a Pisco bar (which stocks more than 40 types of tequila), a ceviche counter (which doesn’t require a reservation) and the slightly more formal restaurant of 100 covers. I say “slightly” because the whole place is busy with cooking noises and the loud chatter of excited diners. I was at home in the lively atmosphere but some may not be. Coya is not the place for a quiet meal.

Besides being head chef for the Rolling Stones for a time, Sanjay Dwivedi has a fine track record of cooking at top 70 The Cultured Traveller October/December 2015

A T STE end Michelin-starred eateries including Zaika, The Ivy and Le Caprice. He also spent some time in Peru, travelling and learning the ropes at Lima's famous Astrid y Gaston, repeatedly voted one of the world’s 50 best restaurants.

Consequently Dwivedi’s menu at Coya impresses, his food is carefully considered, lovingly prepared, beautifully presented and bursting with flavour, and his eclectic background comes through, especially in dishes like quinoa salad cooked for six hours in palm sugar and tamarind.

The Cultured Traveller opted for the tasting menu, which kicked-off with a beautifully presented platter of three ceviches (sea bass, yellowfish tuna and wild sea bass), a tiradito of kingfish and a remolacha beetroot salad, served over crushed ice. All were divine in their own right, bursting with flavour.

The next course consisted of three dishes from Coya’s open charcoal grill. Anticucho de Pollo and Setas (barbecued chicken skewers) seasoned with ají amarillo and garlic, and Pulpo al Olivo (Josper octopus) served with pureed Peruvian olives, potatoes and charred cherry tomatoes. These dishes were tender, succulent, finely seasoned and moreish. Accompanying our grilled selection was Ensalada de Maiz (corn salad) containing josper corn, crispy corn (chanca), red chillies and finely chopped onions. I loved the contrasting textures and flavours in this veggie delight.

My favourite dish of the night was Arroz Nikkei of lobster, lime and chilli. This was wonderfully creamy with generous chunks of lobster meat and intensely flavoured bisque containing dashi, mirin and soy sauce, lifted by chilli and lime.

& SI P The rice course was followed by Lubina Chilena - Chilean seabass which had been marinated for 72 hours in white miso, sake, pisco and ají amarillo. This was sweet, delicate and delicious. The last course also consisted of Solomillo de Res - spicy beef fillet, which cut like butter and was quite simply delectable. Accompanying the mains was a generous portion of sprouting purple broccoli, griddled in chilli and garlic butter and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The perfect accompaniment.

The little space I had left in my belly, after four courses of

intense Peruvian culinary entertainment, was quickly filled by the irresistible scrummy finale, a sharing dessert platter consisting of three puddings: Parfait de Arabica - a coffee parfait coated in kiwicha over caramelised bananas, chocolate and 23 year-old Zacapa rum; Caramelo con Chocolate - basically a salted caramel ganache; and Frambuesa Sorbete blood orange sorbet.

I couldn’t fault my meal at Coya. Every course had guts and character, the service was impeccable throughout and the atmosphere theatrical and fun. Visit Coya for a decadent night with a Latin American twist. You’ll eat the best Peruvian food in London, at the moment.

COYA

Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Sanjay Dwivedi Address: 118 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7NW, UK Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7042 7118 Email: info@coyarestaurant.com Website: www.coyarestaurant.com Cuisine: Peruvian Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 (Sunday - Wednesday) 18:00 - 23:00 (Thursday - Saturday)

Lunch price: Lubina Ecuatoriano (GBP 12), Arroz Nikkei (GBP 33) Dinner price: Pez Limon (GBP 14), Solomillo de Res (GBP 32), Chocolate Fundido (GBP 19) Ideal meal: Five-course tasting menu (GBP 75) excluding wines Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: No Children: High chairs available. Kids menu for Sunday brunch.

Credit cards: All major Parking: Monday - Saturday dinner valet GBP 20 Reviewed by: Nicholas Chrisostomou on 21 February 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

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music& NIGHT LIFE

STEVE ANGELLO

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU INTERVIEWS SIZE RECORDS BOSS, SUPERSTAR DJ AND ONE THIRD OF ELECTRONIC MUSIC SUPERGROUP SWEDISH HOUSE MAFIA, STEVE ANGELLO

What prompted you to start DJ’ing and who was your Which was the more important SHM hit for you, greatest musical inspiration as a teenager?

One (Your Name), Miami 2 Ibiza, or another?

I grew up in a music loving family, discovered vinyl at a very early age and loved the movement of a record. This stuck with me and once I was old enough to go and buy records by myself, I discovered a passion for DJ’ing.

Definitely One, because that track created and changed everything for us.

Which is your favourite 70’s track?

I would have to say time! I have two daughters I would love to see grow up and it's been a challenge since day one. Luckily, compared to many other professions, I'm able to devote more time to them than most people out at work.

Anything produced by Quincy Jones. Plus Stevie Wonder and early electronic albums.

When and where was your first paid DJ’ing gig?

I was around 14 or 15. I had to lie about my age since the minimum age requirement was 18. I'll never forget it.

Which DJs influenced you most in your early career?

American record producer and half of the hip-hop duo Gang Starr, DJ Premier, was the first to inspire me, followed by Daft Punk. As an electronic music kid Erick Morillo was my biggest inspiration.

What has been your biggest professional challenge to date and how did you handle it?

What has been your most memorable career highlight to date?

American record producer and half of the hip-hop duo Gang Starr, DJ Premier, was the first to inspire me, followed by Daft Punk.

I would have to say the first time a record connects with people.

Nothing has been more exciting than people’s reaction to a first record.

Name one downside to being such a well-known and busy DJ and musician.

How was your 2004 remix of Eurythmics’ Sweet Dreams received by Annie Lenox and Dave Stewart?

Privacy and mystique. Although my career has been my choice, I wish I could possibly have done it a little differently. Robot head maybe?!

How did Swedish House Mafia change your life?

Your musical style has moved from mainstream progressive house to EDM. Which style of music are you playing now and which do you enjoy creating the most?

It actually started out as a bootleg that I played out all the time. Then they heard it, loved it and wanted to release it.

PHOTOTOGRAPHED BY SANNA DAHLEN

It was an incredible journey. We did things no other electronic group had ever done before, and achieved one of, if not the biggest, electronic music tours in history. It took us from arena to arena. It was incredible to be a part of.

I'll always keep changing styles and adding new elements to my sets. It's a mood thing. I'll do whatever makes me happy. I'm sure that most of my fans enjoy the journey. Sometimes I'd like to take bigger steps.

What prompted you to start Size Records?

No one wanted to sign my records. There was a time in music where every release was a huge monetary investment for record labels and few would risk it.

Artwork. Mastering. Vinyl. Mailing promo records. The list of costs went on. I would need to start by investing between GBP 4,000 – 5,000 for each new track release.

This cost used to work as a filter. Nowadays it costs nothing. But back then records wouldn't get lost in the same way as they do today.

Tell us about the most exciting new artist recently signed by Size.

Size is currently branching out a little and moving into different genres. We have some really special projects coming up that I would love to talk about, but it's a little too early for that right now, sorry.

Of all the clubs and venues you’ve played in, which has been your favourite and why?

You are constantly on the move and touring the world. With such a busy schedule how do you find time to kick back and relax?

I don't. I tried the other day but I just couldn’t. I tend to come up with stuff I have to do or ideas I want to try out.

I'm really into branding and marketing and things around me inspires me all the time. I also own a creative agency so those ideas can all become reality, therefore if is not music it's something else.

You have obviously stayed in hundreds of hotels.

Which is your preferred hotel and why?

Ett Hem in Stockholm is, for me, the best hotel in the world!

Other places I call home are The Mercer in NY, Chiltern Firehouse in London and The Dylan in Amsterdam.

I'll always keep changing styles and adding new elements to my sets. It's a mood thing. I'll do whatever makes me happy.

I loved all the arenas we played but there are also some very special clubs out there. One in particular is Green Valley in Brazil where I played an extended 11-hour set to 10,000 people in the jungle, while the sun came up.

This was definitely one of my most memorable DJ’ing experiences.

You have collaborated with a number of world famous artists including Pharrell and Tinie Tempah.

With whom would you still like to make music?

There are loads of creative and cool artists out there I would love to work with, including Chris Martin, Lorde, Jay-Z, Kanye West, Osca, and French electronic music band M83.

We know you have two young daughters and are dedicated to your family. How do you balance the rock ‘n’ lifestyle of a world famous DJ touring the globe and traditional family life?

I don't have to do a balancing act because my first priority is being a dad. And anyway my lifestyle has changed a lot since I stopped drinking. I no longer come home feeling like crap after a DJ’ing gig.

Does your family have a favourite holiday destination and please tell us what makes it so special?

The Maldives for their untouched beaches, fresh fish, weather and calmness are very hard to beat.

What do you consider to be your greatest achievements to date?

Being able to earn a living from making music.

How do you relax and where in the world?

I love the quiet, inspiring and dark melancholic feel of the Swedish woods.

What one piece of advice would you give to a budding DJ looking to start a career in music?

Have fun. Love what you do. No matter what anyone says just follow your heart. If you like black like black even if it's not on trend. Your vision always comes across if you genuinely love what you do.

What’s next for Steve Angelo?

My album, Wild Youth. It's been my biggest chalk to date but it’s done, finished and some of my best work. The first track from the album, Children Of The Wild, is out already.

The album will be released soon. Watch this space www.steveangello.com.

October/November 2015 The Cultured Traveller 75

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GLOBETROTTER Perfume fanatics around the globe hang on ROJA DOVE’s every fragrance-infused word. Stylish Globetrotter interviews “the nose” exclusively for The Cultured Traveller Tell us about your twenty years at Guerlain and how you came to learn the process of creating a scent?

I remember the first time I met Jean-Paul Guerlain. I was both nervous and extremely excited. All I could muster was, "How do you do sir?” I worked from a box that contained some of Guerlain's most precious materials. I would spend the day committing each odour to memory, ten per day, and in the classical way I started a book where I duly noted down my observations about each ingredient. I was taught how to truly understand an odour, through contrast and comparison. I try to show these rudimentary rules to students today, and see how they are too often blinded by the intellectual idea of an odour, rather than what their nose tells them they are smelling. It is the greatest lesson, learning that just because you have used all the ingredients you love that the scent will not smell wonderful. You need to use other materials to sublimate and to offer the unexpected. I am lucky when I work that I’m able to use the finest quality materials available, and so I strive to ensure that each material has space to breathe and is truly able to sing.

What makes your scents unique in today’s saturated fragrance market?

The Roja Parfums collection is unusual as it is, I believe, the first time in the history of perfumery that someone has set about making a balanced palette of perfumes - something for every olfactory taste. It is the expression of my fundamental belief that there is a perfect perfume for everyone, but that every perfume cannot be perfect for everyone. So the collection takes a bespoke approach, adapted for a commercial range.

I hope I have created a palette of fragrances that are relevant, made to last, stylish, and utterly contemporary, containing the world’s rarest, exclusive and complex raw materials. They are blended to remind one of the luxury of the past, whilst anticipating the expectations of the future. Above all I have tried to embody my central “only the best will do” philosophy in all my creations. These are the most imaginative, creative and powerful perfumes I could ever hope to create.

You have been quoted as saying “At some specific long lost moment a fragrant molecule entered my being and I was forever changed, my destiny was forged, it’s path galvanised.” Please tell us about this life-changing moment

I remember vividly my mother coming to kiss me goodnight when I was about 6 years old. She was on her way out to a cocktail party and dressed in a gold lamé dress. The light from the hallway illuminated her from behind, transforming her into an ethereal figure.

It is an image that will always stay with me. The resonating smell of her face powder and perfume that lingered in the room once she had kissed me goodnight marked the beginning of my love for perfume.

You have been referred to as the world's only Professeur de Parfum. What does this title mean to you?

I don’t know where that title came from. For me, a perfumer is a poet or storyteller, who creates the tangible from the intangible - abstract images that strike at our core. We create products that become part of our clients' lives and loves - intrinsically interwoven with their memories and those who know them. I aim to create fragrances that cast a spell over our emotions and secretly haunt our senses; fragrances that capture our hearts; fragrances that hopefully will be loved and remembered.

What is your advice, to men and women, when choosing a fragrance to suit their characteristics?

LOOK EVERYWHERE. And I mean everywhere. Every store chases exclusives and you’ll find smaller brands tucked away in a kind of perfume commune away from the major players - it’s always worth checking them out for an undiscovered rarity that works for you.

GO IT ALONE. Never take a friend fragrance shopping. You have your perfume agenda, your friend has one that’s completely different. Something you love on yourself, your friend may think doesn’t suit you at all. The idea that fragrances smell different on each

individual is becoming a thing of the past, since the but over the years she has learned never to allow more synthetics are used in the creation process the less herself to get hurt. I imagine a woman who spends the evening at the theatre or opera. You can see her in the individual the fragrance will smell.

TRY LOTS. But how many can you try in one shopping half-light. She’s wearing a beautiful evening dress with a low décolleté, revealing a big diamond necklace. She’s day? More than you imagine if you take time. If you a woman who knows what she wants – and often takes smell freshly sprayed fragrances your nose will tire risks to get it. It’s a perfume for women, not girls. after the third one or so. This is due to the alcohol content which works like an anaesthetic. It’s a bit like It is said that you can identify 800 different scents drinking three gin and tonics and still expecting to have razor sharp perception. blindfolded. How exactly do you do this?

Smelling the perfume on paper on the ‘dry down’ To become a perfumer you must be able to grasp the (when the perfume has settled and the alcohol has biology behind the sense of smell, understand the evaporated) means you can smell fragrances all day techniques available to you to extract the oils you work without fatigue. Testing on paper is the only sane way with, memorise the raw materials and their odour to try a fragrance. It’s free from glues or binders and is profiles, know-how to combine these materials to create effects, study the great fragrances of the past, as near to skin as is possible to recreate, the only thing and look to the future. missing being the warmth of the skin, so breathe out very hard on them to warm them up before you inhale. What is a perfume? If each natural odour is a myriad of Spray a few on blotter cards, turn them over to conceal impressions then a fragrance composition is like a multi-faceted diamond - each with its own distinctive the brand, and then smell them away from the perfumery department. Maybe take yourself to a smart personality. The creative perfumers’ skill to fashion each olfactory ‘diamond’ is the result of hard work and little bar and slowly sniff and deliberate alongside a a good memory (combined with imagination and, glass of well-chilled champagne. After all, this could hopefully, good taste). Whilst become a long-term love affair such skill is certainly and so needs to be approached I hope I have created a something that has to be like a game of seduction palette of fragrances that learnt, one will only be great if slowly and with pleasure.

Smell them one at a time, are relevant, made to last, blessed with an inherent aptitude for scent. comparing each one to the stylish and utterly So how does a perfumer next, eliminating the one you like least of the two you’re contemporary, containing commence work in such an There are no hard comparing, then continue the the world’s rarest, exclusive industry? and fast rules. Traditionally process until you have only one or a maximum of two left, and complex raw materials. the perfumer would be given a number of materials to study then turn the card to see which and commit to memory. To aid such memorisation a one has seduced you.

Always have unperfumed skin when going to buy a perfumer usually initiates a perfume ‘diary’, to which new scent or the scents will fight against each other. they continually refer throughout their career. In it they Now go back to the counter and spray one and only will notate the thoughts and associations that each one on your skin. And it shouldn’t be a small squirt on odour evokes, so that when they smell the odour again your wrist. Spray it all over, then go away and sleep on they can refer back to the book. To illustrate this point, it. A quick sniff is like flirting - just like a lover, it’s only when I first smelt patchouli I recalled a fallen tree in when you spend the night together that you know if the wood behind my grandparents’ house - damp earth the relationship is going to work out or not. and decay, wet soil and worm-casts. It was only later If you’re still in love in the morning then buy it. that I discovered the beautifully bitter chocolate note that underscores the finest quality oil it can produce.

Please tell us about the process of creating a new Some oils are easy to remember whereas others scent. necessitate referring back to the associations that were My creative process is tied up in my respect for the first made and notated in the book. If one takes into golden days of perfumery, when perfumers did not account that there are some 3,000 different odours create with either financial or ingredient restrictions, or available in perfumery, it is easy to comprehend why it in response to a creative brief or a marketing campaign. takes so long to train as a classical perfumer.

I always start with a name when creating a perfume, and the composition of the scent comes from my mind’s You’re one of the pioneers of using aoud in the West. reaction to the thoughts and feelings the name invokes for me. With Reckless for example, I was reading a book How did your first aoud-coded fragrance come in which a woman said: “Reckless maybe, foolish about? never”. What a fabulous statement. I thought of a The actual word “perfume”, from the Latin “per woman who still has the passion to follow her heart, fumum”, literally translated means “through smoke”.

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The ancient practice of burning scent has been lost throughout much of the world, but is still part of daily rituals across the Gulf Region. The people of the Middle East are both proud and secretive in their choice of scent. The most legendary of all materials used in their creation is Aoud (or Oud) and comes from a fragrant resin harvested from the heart of the knotted Aquilaria tree. When burnt, the original practice of “perfuming” is kept alive, and the Aoud becomes known as Bakhoor.

I was lucky enough to meet Mohammed Al Fahim, whose family were the first to bring western scents to the Middle East in their shops called Paris Gallery. I worked with him for many years and it was during this time that I was first introduced properly to Aoud's which were generally not something we as perfumers in Europe knew much about, as we seldom used them in our creations. I learnt very quickly how much they vary in quality, how they often blend them with a rose, Rose Taif in particular, which is as rare, precious, and beautiful, as our legendary rose from Grasse - Rose de Mai. My nose was at once enchanted with the exotic scents of the Middle East; they were both mesmerising and beguiling.

Still hypnotised by its magic, I launch an Aoud.

We’re told you’re a keen traveller. Where is your favourite holiday destination in the world - perhaps somewhere you return to often - and what makes it so special?

Théoule sur Mer on the Côte d’Azur. I love the antiques market opposite the Palais des Festivals and the boulangerie Envie de Pains, where I always leave with delicious pastries and a big smile on my face, thanks to the boulangère, Dominique, who dyes her hair the most astonishing colours. For dining, Cave de Mes Terres has a great selection of locally sourced wines and cheeses and Marco Polo restaurant is right by the water and serves simple, yet wonderful, food with views of the Esterel Massif mountain range rising from the sea. Théoule sur Mer is also wonderfully located for La Colombe d’Or restaurant in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, where you eat amid the works of Sonia Delaunay, Picasso and Alexander Calder.

What’s your favourite hotel in the world and why?

Whenever I stay at the Connaught, I am overwhelmed with a sense of reassurance. From the doormen to the décor, the whole experience makes me feel like everything is right in the world. The newly reopened Lanesborough is also a beautiful hotel and I have just finished creating their perfumed amenities.

You’re well known for choosing only the most luxurious ingredients for your fragrances. Which is the most expensive component in a Roja Dova fragrance and how and where is it sourced?

I only ever use the best raw materials available. What’s more, I use them in enormous quantities. My Scandal

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perfume contains an exclusive Tuberose that must be picked when it’s in the bud. The moment the flower opens, it’s no longer of any use to us. The flower itself is worth its exact weight in gold. The only Jasmine I use is from Grasse. If you know how small Grasse is, then you’ll understand why the amount of Jasmine available in the world is tiny. I pay around GBP 34,000 for a kilo of Jasmine - that’s more than twice the price of gold. The Rose I use in my creations is Rose De Mai which, must be picked before it is exposed to the sun, as the quality of its oil starts to diminish as the sun intensifies. It takes approximately 308,000 of these roses to produce one kilo of oil.

believe there should be something for everyone.

If a house is paying to use a famous face and is conducting huge marketing campaigns on TV, in magazines and newspapers, the money to pay for it will have had to come from somewhere - so of course the formulae cannot be as good as from some smaller brands who invest everything into the content of the bottle.

What do you never leave home without when embarking on a vacation?

What do you like to bring back from your travels?

I find luxury in comfort; I always travel with my own pillow and my own blend of tea. My world is all about what makes me comfortable, as there is no better feeling.

What’s the most beautiful destination you’ve ever visited?

Smell is the sense most closely linked to emotion and memory. Are you an emotional romantic?

I am. It is often said that our eyes are the windows to our soul. I believe them merely to be observers, whereas, our nose absorbs the world’s life essences.

Can you tell a person’s character by the scent he or Since the dawn of civilisation, perfume has been with she wears? us, evolving within the complex fabric of the human People who like florals are a little like flowers psyche and culture. Scent is intangible. It can touch us, themselves. They are simple with a carefree move us, and inspire our very being. It can transform disposition. They tend to take things at a surface value, us into seducers or seductresses, elevating and and are uncomplicated and happy-go-lucky. transporting us to an ethereal realm of memories and Scents which people refer to as musky are generally sensations. Sit with someone and breathe in their scent known as Chyprés. People who prefer Chyprés tend to and they give you one of the most beautiful of all gifts be very understated, very the gift of memory. You may tailored in their tastes, and not have seen someone for My Scandal perfume don’t want anything flashy. years but, with one breath of Think of the sort of woman their scent, the memories come contains an exclusive who wears plain black Armani flooding back, dreams are Tuberose that must be with a single striking piece of revived, love is rekindled. jewellery. They are picked when it’s in the uncompromising and know Where do you go and what do bud. The moment the what they like and don’t like. you do to switch-off? flower opens, it’s no People who like oriental scents I love to visit The Wolseley, tend to be show-offs. They which is something of a longer of any use to us. must be noticed, have home for me. It’s smart The flower itself is worth second luxurious sensual senses and but not stuffy and, hand on quite often fancy themselves as its exact weight in gold. heart, its avocado vinaigrette a seducer or seductress. is the best in the world.

Which is your favourite all-time fragrance in the world, past or present, apart from one of your own?

I tend not to bring back any items - only memories.

Portofino. I have lived by the sea all my life, but the water there shimmered like nothing I had ever seen before.

I used a fragrance from Guerlain for about 30 years, Please reveal a personal travel tip. from before I worked with them, but one day I put it on I could not travel without my own goose-down pillow. and didn’t recognize it. It had been modified. From that I use it both on the flight, as soon as they make up my day on, I created my own fragrance. bed I take it out of my hand luggage, and in the hotel. I cannot look, or more importantly feel, tired. My pillow What is your opinion about the modern marketing of has allowed me to step straight of a long-haul flight to Sydney, and present to fifty people whilst still bright perfumes endorsed by celebrities? eyed. No-one could believe that I had just stepped of a We live in a world driven by celebrity - for many it is flight of more than twenty hours! almost an obsession. Luckily I am very happy in my skin, and so really do not care who is being paid to be www.rojadove.com the 'face of'. If it makes a consumer happy, great. I

MONCLER JACKET

Alistair D. Blair, Fashion Designer

For Him

Just over 60 years ago Moncler was a small French company producing sleeping bags. Fast forward to 2015 and it has become the world’s leading brand in luxury ski wear for men, women and children. This black leather & nylon Allemand biker jacket, with at at quilted back and sleeves, is great g, for either serious off-piste skiing, or racing through the harsh winterr landscape of city life.

EUR 1,390 WWW.STORE.MONCLER.COM

Today the Cultured Traveller can ski all over the globe at any time of the year through all seasons. Most would agree, if we were honest, that après-ski has become just as important, if not more, than the actual sport of skiing. Whether dancing 'til dawn in cashmere and satin in the celebrity-drenched clubs of Courchevel, or risking life and limb cocooned in fur in Corbet's Couloir in Jackson's Hole, being fashionably dressed is now a prerequisite, especially if you want to avoid mixing with the hoi polloi.

PICKETT GLOVES As temperatures plunge, no matter what you are doing outside, a pair of great gloves are a necessity. This wrist length pair from Pickett, in beautifully soft deerskin, are lovingly hand made in England and fully lined in rabbit fur.

GBP 185 WWW.PICKETT.CO.UK

HERMÈS SCARF This 2-metre Open Aller Retour scarf from Hermès - a name synonymous with luxury - is a necessary indulgence. Fashioned from 70% cashmere and 30% silk, it is very light, incredibly soft and will keep your neck warm while flying at 30,000 ft or snowboarding at 3,000 ft.

GBP 365 WWW.UK.HERMES.COM October/December 2015 The Cultured Traveller 83

SOREL BOOTS Sorel's winter boots have long been popular in Canada for their high quality and warmth. Their waxed canvas uppers and recycled felt liners make these seam-sealed, waterproof boots extra special, and effective at keeping feet toasty and dry in extreme winter conditions. This pair of black 1964 Premium T CVS boots with red accent stitching, will work with pretty much anything in your ski wardrobe.

GBP 100 WWW.SORELFOOTWEAR.CO.UK

NIKE GOGGLES Nike has just launched its first full range of sleek, cutting-edge snow goggles.

The streamlined frame of these Nike Khyber goggles, is made of engineered super-durable water repellant mesh, which enhances air-flow and repels fog, allowing for the best possible visibility while skiing.

GBP 169 WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK

TORY BURCH BOOTS

These Anjelica boots, by classic American luxury lifestyle brand Tory Burch, strike the perfect balance between form, function and fashion and have an eclectic sensibility about them.

Featuring a round toe and rabbit fur cuffs, these suede boots will keep you warm and comfy when the temperature falls.

EUR 395 WWW.CUSP.COM

TOM FORD FENDI SKI JACKET fabulous hooded SWEATER This shearling and

This ivory merino wool & cashmere blend sweater from Tom Ford manages to be both rustic and sophisticated at the same time, nodding classic design with its heavy yarns, plush ribbed trims and thick cable-knit braids. It could be worn under a sleek ski-suit or with jeans while sipping hot chocolate on a sun-lit mountain terrace.

GBP 1,290 WWW.MRPORTER.COM 84

stretch-shell ski jacket from Fendi’s Creature collection, has zipped side pockets embellished with yellow and black ‘Bag Bug’ eyes and trimmed with shearling eyebrows. Tight cuffs, a snap-fastening front and peaked hood will keep you warm and protected from the elements.

GBP 1,750 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

This rock star ski mask by Stefano Gabbana and Dominico Dolce - masters of Italian superstar chic - has a huge, single, gold-mirrored panorama lens, and straps covered in dark brown mink fur. Supplied with an exclusive mink fur bag.

Style no DG6096. Colour 2945/F9. Price on application.

To order only. Exclusively at Dolce & Gabbana stores.

LORO PIANA HAT Italian clothing company, Loro Piana, specialises in high-end, luxury cashmere and wool products. This knitted Courchevel hat of super-soft baby cashmere, made exclusively from the underfleece of Hircus goat kids, is trimmed in shadow fox fur and will add a touch of decadence to your après-ski outfit.

EUR 590 WWW.LOROPIANA.COM

BURBERRY PONCHO Burberry’s fully lined, Bohemian poncho in butter soft, black suede with fringed edges is a sure-fire fashion investment. Over black pants and a black, turtleneck sweater, or even a simple black dress, this wonderfully versatile piece is an addition to your winter wardrobe, which you will surely throw on again and again.

GBP 2,495 WWW.BURBERRY.COM

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SWEATER The only sweater you’ll want this winter comes from the house of Alexander McQueen. Knitted entirely by hand from army-green, navy and burgundy skeins of wool, alpaca, mohair and silk.

The cut-out shoulders add a sexy & modern twist to this covetable item.

GBP 2,595 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

For Her

DOLCE & GABBANA SKI MASK

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Abdulla www.abdulla.com

Ferahfeza www.ferahfeza-ist.com

Adelphi Hotel www.adelphi.com.au

Four Seasons Resort Orlando At Walt Disney World www.fourseasons.com

Airbus www.airbus.com

Frankfurt Book Fair www.buchmesse.de/de/

Alba International White Truffle Fair www.fieradeltartufo.org/2015/it/

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Aman Tokyo www.aman.com

Grand Hyatt Istanbul www.istanbul.grand.hyatt.com

Arsah Carpets www.arsahcarpets.wordpress.com

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Attica Restaurant www.attica.com.au

Hôtel Plaza Athénée www.dorchestercollection.com

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Hotel Sahrai www.hotelsahrai.com

Baccarat Hotel www.baccarathotels.com

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Badshahi Mosque www.lahoretourism.net

Istanbul Modern www.istanbulmodern.org

BFI London Film Festival www.bfi.org.uk/lff

Iznik-Art www.iznik-art.com

Brisbane Good Food Show www.goodfoodshow.com.au

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Jewel Changi Airport www.jewelchangiairport.com

Casas Del XVI www.casasdelxvi.com

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Cecconi's www.cecconisistanbul.com/en

La Petite Maison www.lpmistanbul.com.tr

Chameleon www.rpgcc.com

Lahore Country & Sports Club www.lahorecountryclub.com

Chiltern Firehouse www.chilternfirehouse.com

Lahore Museum www.lahoremuseum.org

Chora Museum www.choramuseum.com

Lahore Polo Club www.lahorepoloclub.com

Cuckoo’s Den www.facebook.com/CuckoosDen

Langham www.langhamhotels.com

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Eureka Tower www.eurekaskydeck.com.au

Malliouhana www.malliouhana.aubergeresorts.com

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Mandarin Grill & Bar, Hong Kong www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong

Steve Angello www.steveangello.com

Melbourne Star www.melbournestar.com

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Misir Aparmani www.galerist.com.tr

The Colonial Tramcar Restaurant www.tramrestaurant.com.au

Moonlight Cinema www.moonlight.com.au/melbourne

The Nam Hai www.ghmhotels.com

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The Nishat www.nishathotels.com

National Gallery of Victoria www.ngv.vic.gov.au

The Norman www.thenorman.com

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The St. Regis Istanbul www.stregis.com/istanbul

Old Melboune Gaol www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au

The Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam www3.hilton.com

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The Walled City Of Lahore Authority www.walledcitylahore.gop.pk

Park Hyatt Melbourne www.melbourne.park.hyatt.com Park Hyatt Sanya Sunny Bay Resort www.sanya.park.hyatt.com Pizza East www.pizzaeast.com/istanbul/en Pushkar Camel Fair www.pushkar-camel-fair.com/

R Red Lotus www.hospitalityinnlahore.com/hil/index.php Royal Botanic Gardens www.rbg.vic.gov.au

S Salon Du Chocolat www.salonduchocolat.fr Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge www.andbeyond.com Soapery www.soaperry.com Soho House Istanbul www.sohohouseistanbul.com/en Spago www.wolfgangpuck.com

V Village Halloween Parade www.halloween-nyc.com Vogue www.voguerestaurant.com Voodoo www.worshipthemusic.com

W W Istanbul www.wistanbul.com.tr Wazir Khan Mosque www.lahoretourism.net Wexford Festival Opera www.wexfordopera.com

Z Zelda Zonk www.gradivahotels.com/portfolio/drink/