The Cultured Traveller, April-May 2016 Issue 10 by The Cultured Traveller

ISSUE 10 APRIL/MAY 2016

SRI PONNAMBALAM VANESAR KOVIL, COLOMBO

COLOMBO • COPÁN RUINS • VANA MALSI ESTATE • NIHONBASHI SAADIYAT ISLAND • THE EMPRESS SUITE • BOB SINCLAR

Going places together Every moment of your time together is precious. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re dedicated to providing a premium service from the minute you check-in, to the moment you land in any of the more than 150 places we fly to worldwide. Together we can create experiences to cherish and memories that last a lifetime. qatarairways.com

Editor’s Letter

APRIL/MAY 2016

The future is now. When we can step on a plane as easily as we can hail a cab, traverse the globe in 24 hours, vacation anywhere on the planet, eat whatever cuisine takes our fancy anywhere, anytime, and shop remotely at the click of a button, what’s right in front of us gets lost in the blur. The best of what the world has to reveal is often hidden in plain sight, and we’re too locked on fast-forward to see it. Yet it’s these simple offerings that are often more rewarding than our best-laid plans. The dancing fountains in downtown Dubai are, for me, the best attraction in the city – yet the crowds meander by without slowing. A walk along the Seine in Paris is nature’s urban communion, often missed by many visitors in favour of boutiques and baguettes. For years I visited Johannesburg on business, but never flew down to Cape Town. When I eventually did, so infatuated was I with the Mother City that I stayed for months and didn't want to leave. That was more than a decade ago, yet here I am, many years later having just done it again, and the world still has secrets to show and stories to tell. I've been visiting Sri Lanka for three years yet never stopped to see its capital. When I did visit Colombo on a quick jaunt last year, I discovered a vibrant, artistic and blossoming metropolitan hub in the middle of what is essentially a tourist island. When I revisited to have a better look, uncovering its culture, history, colour and charisma, there was no doubt that Colombo would shine as a cover story for The Cultured Traveller. I hope you enjoy reading about its energetic heart as much as I did exploring its cultural nooks and culinary crannies.

Copán Ruins

Colombo

This issue is our biggest to date I might add, as Lucy Taylor visits the Honduran Copán ruins (p90), Ashlee Starratt takes a weekend break on an island in Abu Dhabi (p74), and we pull up a chair at Sri Lankan master chef Dharshan Munidasa’s table as his famed Japanese restaurant makes Asia's 50 Best for the fourth year in a row (p98). Then there’s my exclusive interview with hospitality guru Brian Clivaz about his swanky new London members club, slated to open in a matter of weeks in the heart of the business district (p62). And, for the music lovers amongst you, we managed to catch-up with dashing superstar French DJ Bob Sinclar (p114). As always I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as the team and I had putting it together.

Nicholas Chrisostomou 08 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

Saadiyat Island

Contributors Ashlee Starratt Resides: Doha • Wrote: No Shoes Required Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

Alex Benasuli Resides: London • Wrote: Spotlight Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

Lucy Taylor Resides: Bristol • Wrote: Traveller Lowdown Lucy is an award-winning journalist with more than a decade’s experience in print and broadcast media. She spent 7 years in the UAE, most recently working for Arabian Radio Network as News Editor and Presenter/Producer of The Travel Show, and as a contributing reporter on City7 TV’s UAE Weekly programme. Lucy left Dubai in December 2014 and has spent most of 2015 on the road, exploring new countries and cultures, freelancing for various publications, and creating videos and podcasts for her website, www.LucyTaylorTravels.com. Lucy has travelled to and reported from more than 50 countries.

Farheen Allsopp Resides: Doha • Wrote: Stylish Globetrotter Farheen is a model turned entrepreneur from London, currently based in Qatar. After the runways of India, Paris, Milan, London and New York she now advises international fashion brands on their Middle East strategy specialising in retail, PR and events. A globetrotter herself, Farheen is an avid online shopper and treasure hunter. She loves discovering emerging brands and is committed to bringing the far-fetched to your attention. Farheen loves adventure and is a cat-loving, free fall parachutist, mother of two boys.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nicholas Chrisostomou DEPUTY EDITOR Kalia Michaelides COPY EDITOR Hazel Pavlou-Jay GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov

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NAGHOL LAND DIVING VANUATU

CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL

SOUTH AFRICA

Now in its 17 year, the Mother City's annual award-winning celebration of jazz, will once again take over the Cape Town International Convention Centre for a th

SNOWBOMBING

Every year, men of the Sa tribe on Pentecost Island in a remote part of the vast South Paciﬁc in a frightening appeasement to the gods and a showy display of their masculinity - build a 30 metre tower out of wood reclaimed from the forest, climb to the top, and jump oﬀ, tethered only by jungle vines tied around their ankles. Tribal members on the ground sing and dance to help the diver be brave. If the vine is too short the jumper will crash back into the tower. If it’s too long, he will almost certainly break bones or possibly even perish. Watching these jumpers is certainly not for the faint-hearted. Thankfully tribal chiefs allow only 50 visitors per event. April 2016 www.portvilavanuatu.com

AUSTRIA

Often referred to as the Glastonbury of mountain gatherings, the world's biggest festival in the snow takes place over a week in the Tyrolean resort of Mayrhofen, towards the end of the annual ski season. Days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music on mountain top stages or relaxing in luxury hotel spas. Nights deliver cutting-edge performances in unique venues, from a sky high igloo to an enchanted forest clearing. This year's line-up includes The Prodigy, Groove Armada, Fat Boy Slim, Jamie Jones, The Cuban Brothers, Sven Vath plus countless other famous DJs and musical acts. 4-9 April 2016 www.snowbombing.com

COACHELLA USA

whole weekend, featuring everything from jazz legends to festival newcomers, musical storytellers and up-tempo high-energy acts for younger attendees. More than forty local and international artists will perform on ﬁve stages, including South African pianist Afrika Mkhize, celebrated English jazz ﬂautist Eddie Parker, Grammy-nominated singer/songwriter Angie Stone from the States, plus classically-trained Canadian music group, BadBadNotGood. 1-2 April 2016 www.capetownjazzfest.com 10 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

A huge, well organised cultural playground of up to 100,000 people at any one time, Coachella is the ﬁrst major music event in the annual festival calendar. Held at the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado Desert, this global gathering is populated by sweaty fashionistas, designer-hippies and musical trendsetters for its 10-day duration. The 2016 line-up is headlined by Guns N' Roses, LCD Soundsystem and superstar DJ Calvin Harris, plus Sia, Ellie Goulding and Disclosure. Coachella is very much California's glossy, glam, dry and hot answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury. You won't see any wellies here! 15-24 April 2016 www.coachella.com

TRUJILLO NATIONAL CHEESE FESTIVAL SPAIN

Each spring, Trujillo in the Cáceres region of Spain, hosts a mammoth international cheese fest, featuring around 300 varieties by local artisan cheese makers together with international produce. During the course of the four-day gathering, up to 100,000 foodies descend on the town's historic main square, Plaza Mayor, to sample cheeses, eat and drink in one of the restaurants and generally feast on the ﬁner culinary things in life, while hundreds of booths in the square oﬀer tastings, talks, music and tasty treats for sale. 29 April - 2 May 2016 www.feriadelquesotrujillo.es

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

FRIEZE NEW YORK USA

INDIA

The American cousin of Britain’s most important annual artistic happening, Frieze New York has become one of the most important contemporary art fairs stateside, showcasing works by more that 1,000 artists. The Big Apple incarnation is fun, colourful and as much of a social event for locals and overseas visitors, as it is a serous art market for dealers and curators. Here the pleasure is attending, people watching, exploring the art and discovering talented newcomers beyond the obvious, well-known pricey names. The food ensemble is also jolly enticing. 5-8 May 2016 www.friezenewyork.com

Thrissur is known as the cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala, and its name literally translates to "The city of the Sacred Siva". If you have a weakness for colourful festivals that both delight and assault the senses at the same time, this is the one for you, complete with ﬁreworks, folk dancing and drumming. The elephants are of course the main attraction, decorated with golden headdress, decorative bells, ornaments, palm leaves, peacock feathers and paintings. Ornate parasols, carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles, add to the stunning visual feast. 17 April 2016 www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

CINCO DE MAYO MEXICO

Despite being outnumbered by the French - who had about 8,000 men to the Mexicans' 4,000 - on 5th May 1862, the Mexican army was triumphant over French forces, which were considered to be the best in the world at the time, since they had been undefeated in 50 years. Although this victory was short-lived (within a year the Mexicans capitulated and the French took over the country), Cinco de Mayo is dedicated to this triumph. A vibrant colourful celebration, mainly focused in the state of Puebla, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing ﬁll the streets, while festival goers eat, drink and cheerfully carouse. 5 May 2016

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GRAND HYATT DOHA West Bay Lagoon, P.O. Box 24010 Doha, State of Qatar | +974 4448 1234 Facebook.com/GrandHyattDoha | doha.grand.hyatt.com *Terms and conditions apply. HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

CAPPADOX

TURKEY

In Cappadocia - a region in central Turkey full of marvellous natural sites, including Monks Valley's tall cone-shaped rock formations known as the “fairy chimneys” - is a three-day festival like no other, nestled amongst the ancient rocks. Cappadox is a celebration of eclectic music, food, arts and culture, inspired by the unique geography and history of the area, including a range of performances, dining events and outdoor activities such as cycling, yoga and nature walks, to take in the beauty and make the most of the festival's incredible location. 19-22 May 2016 www.cappadox.com

STARS OF THE WHTE NIGHTS RUSSIA

Directed by maestro Valery Gergiev, the opera and ballet companies of St Petersburg's famous Mariinsky Theatre, are renowned and revered throughout Russia and around the world, for their incredibly detailed and elaborate

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL UK

Previous guest directors of London-By-The-Sea's (as it's often aﬀectionally called) critically acclaimed mixed art festival, have included Aung San Suu Kyi, Vanessa Redgrave and Anish Kapoor. The UK's biggest and boldest arts festival, Brighton Festival is a creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment events across the city, including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances - many of which are specially commissioned and have their public airings at the festival. 7-29 May 2016 www.brightonfestival.org

interpretations of the greatest classics, including Tchaikovsky‘s Eugene Onegin and Swan Lake, plus works by Mozart, Verdi and Rossini. The annual White Nights festival of ballet and opera is a unique cultural event, held at the city's three premier music venues - Mariinsky Theatre, New Theatre and Concert Hall - during the magical summer period when the sun never sets. 27 May-31 July 2016 www.balletandopera.com

CANNES INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL FRANCE

Barring the red carpet, Cannes is probably most famous for its beach happenings, premiere after parties and awards ceremony bashes. Held annually in the famous upscale French seaside resort, it's one of the film world's most important events, attended by prestigious directors and famous actors as well as up-and-coming producers and professionals who have yet to make their mark. Nowadays the festival provides a rendezvous for those interested in movies, film makers and the industry's influencers, as well as an international marketplace where producers and distributors exchange ideas, watch films and sign contracts. 11-22 May 2016 www.festival-cannes.com

HAY FESTIVAL WALES

For ten days annually from the end of May until early June, for the past 27 years (when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny), thousands of literary buﬀs descend upon Hay-on-Wye in Wales' beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, sit down on the

grass or in a deckchair and read books. Hay celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists, and the power of great ideas to transform peoples' way of thinking, and gives everyone from children to professors the opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word. 26 May - 5 June 2016 www.hayfestival.com/wales April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 13

MIAMI FAENA Miami Beach had its golden age, beginning in the 1940s lasting through the early 1960s. Temples of Art Deco and Modernism were built. Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack entertained. Despite its ascendancy, Miami was a relative backwater compared to the chic and sexy Latin cities of Rio de Janeiro, Havana and Buenos Aires. Today, Miami increasingly claims its place as the de facto capital of Latin America and a global centre for the arts and culture. Whilst the latter is almost certainly true, nothing epitomizes this transformation of Miami more adeptly, than the recent opening of Faena hotel in December 2015 and the soon to be revealed Faena Forum, all the brainchild of enigmatic billionaire Argentinian hotelier and real estate developer, Alan Faena. A cornucopia of tropical chic, Faena makes a direct claim as the descendant of Miami's and Latin America's golden age. This luxurious feel is made more contemporary and fun by providing the drama and creativity that coincidentally come when parading a theme of art, music and culture. The hotel entrance is cathedral-like, with soaring ceilings, a long hallway lined with gold-leafed columns and richly colourful Garden of Eden-inspired murals by Argentine painter, Juan Gatti. At the end of this passage way, through the main lobby and out past the pool and garden towards the beach, stands Damien Hirst's 'Gone but not Forgotten' (2014) – the 24-karat gilded skeleton of a three-metre tall woolly mammoth, reputed to have cost a cool USD 18 million. Restaurant Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann is another focal point of Faena, and is under the gastronomic direction of one of Argentina's most celebrated chefs. Los Fuegos being Spanish for fire, hints as to the type of cuisine primarily on offer - grilled meats, fish and vegetables for which Argentina is famous. Fiery not only describes the food but also the overall ethos of the décor. Shades of gold and bronze combined with deep reds and faux leopard skin create a sumptuous, luxurious and decadent ambiance. The adjoining Living Room, often hosting Cuban bands and cabaret singers, has quickly become one of Miami's most elegant nightspots. This lounge, together with Saxony DJ bar, form Faena’s nightlife epicentre. Rooms of every category - from city to ocean view and multiple suite offerings - are beautifully decorated with strong accents of teal and red and an Art Deco flair. All rooms and suites include the hotel’s signature butler service. The hotel is just the first part of the ever-evolving Faena District, a massive master-planned arts/entertainment/residential development that stretches four blocks along Mid-Beach between the Atlantic Ocean to Indian Creek, that includes a Norman Foster-designed tower of private residences and the much anticipated Faena Forum designed by starchitect Rem Koolhaas, a true cultural centre focusing on performance arts, music, fine arts and much more. Even film director Baz Luhrmann is part of team Faena. Clearly a new golden age is happening in Miami. ALEX BENASULI www.faena.com 14

Rest Your Head Miami, Berlin, Stellenbosch, Seville, Langkawi, London, Bangkok, Athens, Tanah Gajah, Kalpitiya, Marrakech, Venice

DAMIEN HIRST'S GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN IMAGE BY IVAN BELAUSTEGUI, COURTESY OF FAENA

DAS STUE HOTEL Since the wall came down, the rebirth of Berlin as one of the world’s most happening social hubs has been far from quiet. At its core is a loud and vibrant, multi-cultured cosmopolitan art and nightlife scene, bursting with vivacity and charisma. Extremes of everything can be found in this one city, including some of Europe’s best restaurants, bars and clubs, and Berlin’s annual cultural calendar is jam-packed with events, one of the biggest being Berlinale, the world-famous international film festival. Consequently contemporary and traditional hotels, of all sizes and at every price point, have sprung up around the city, to accommodate the droves of people visiting throughout the year. New luxe boutique hotel, Das Stue, is a perfect representation of the Berlin of today, skilfully combining old and new and paying tribute to the city’s past whilst at the same time embracing its outrageous present. Housed within a stunning, stately, 1930s neoclassical house formerly the Danish embassy - together with a contemporary new addition designed by Potsdam-based Axthelm Architects, 78-room Das Stue is located in the city’s traditional diplomatic neighbourhood, on the edge of Tiergarten Park. The hotel’s art aficionado owners chose acclaimed interior designer, Patricia Urquiola, to curate the look and feel of all the public areas. Her signature is a bold yet playful palate of colour, texture, styles and installations, in some places arresting whilst calming in others. The result is assertive and utterly unique. Rooms and suites feature a soft colour scheme, bespoke furniture, spacious bathrooms and all the amenities a cultured traveller would expect, sufficient to properly unwind after a frenzied day in the city. Das Stue’s premium accommodation offering is its Bel Etage Suite, equipped with two bathrooms and a sprawling living/dining room covering 110m² of interior space, 5 metre ceilings, plus a 80m² private terrace from which Berlin Zoo’s animals can be both seen and heard. KALIA MICHAELIDES www.das-stue.com/en

BERLIN

STELLENBOSCH

DELAIRE GRAFF In the Western Cape of South Africa, on the banks of the Eerste River, nestles the town of Stellenbosch, sheltered in a lush valley. Its hilly terrain, with soils that range from dark alluvium to clay, combined with a mild Mediterranean climate which prevails all year round, have established this location as an ideal place for viticulture, and hence is home to some of the world's finest wineries. It comes as little surprise then, that Laurence Graff, chairman of Graff diamonds, chose one of Stellenbosch's most breathtaking estates to create a unique destination of unparalleled beauty, which combines hospitality, wine, food, art and glittering jewels. Delaire Graff Estate is decadence, culture and indulgence personified, much like a rare diamond skilfully crafted, polished and set. Ten individual lodges, fashioned by acclaimed British designer, David Collins, offer serene accommodation for discerning travellers. Each basks in natural light with double-height ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, which open out onto private, heated, plunge pools and vistas of vineyards, mountains and the estate’s perennial gardens. Neutral colours compliment the environment, whilst spacious marble bathrooms and contemporary African artworks lend an air of understated opulence, and the use of bamboo and reed together with polished concrete floors evoke minimalistic simplicity. Twenty hectares of vineyards produce the estate's award-winning wines, and whether you are a resident at Delaire or just an oenophile visitor, you can view the state-of-the-art winery, observe winemakers on-the-job and taste the fruits of their labours. Like everything else, dining also takes a different dimension here. Fresh produce - harvested daily from the estate’s greenhouses and gardens - is delivered to dining tables bursting with colour and flavour. At Indochine, diners can savour divine Asian-influenced cuisine with a South African twist, prepared by head chef Virgil Kahn. Meanwhile seasonal dishes abound at The Delaire Graff Restaurant, where classic bistro favourites are treated to South African touches and served in a spacious environment including a sprawling deck facing the vineyards and olive groves. With its distinctly holistic approach, Delaire Graff Spa caters to all ages and is open to residents and guests alike. Its innovative menu includes bespoke healing and anti-ageing treatments, some using 24-karat gold and Citrine, and is a sublime place to cocoon and indulge. And as if all the eating, drinking, reclining and lounging weren’t enough, there’s even a jewellery boutique showcasing Graff’s exquisite diamonds and haute horology in suitably resplendent surroundings. KALIA MICHAELIDES www.delaire.co.za

CORRAL DEL REY

SEVILLE

Unfolding Seville’s myriad of layers, to discover the heart and core of this sundrenched Andalusian city, will reward you with untold pleasures and revelations. Moorish architecture and cobbled streets give Seville the looks, Flamenco adds zest and the foodie scene fulfils the gratification. The gusto of the Sevillanos is contagious and it’s not difficult to become addicted to both their languor and joie de vivre. One of the best places to rest your head in this vivacious city and uncover all that Seville has to offer, is Corral Del Rey, a 17th century Casa Palacio, lovingly restored with devotion and much TLC. Conveniently located in the old quarter of Barrio Alfalfa, just five minutes from the cathedral, this bijou privately-owned boutique hotel, offers deluxe accommodation in five categories, including a spacious pool terrace suite with private plunge pool and expansive sundeck, and a penthouse suite boasting views across the rooftops of Seville. The hotel’s interior designer, Kuky Mora-Figueroa, has stamped her eclectic mix of ancient and modern in every room, rendering each refreshingly different from the other. Bathrooms are bedecked in marble and limestone with walk-in rain showers, and the finest linens and handmade blankets adorn the beds. A city of eaters, drinkers and merry-makers, Seville is home to many excellent tapas bars. One of the city’s oldest is the atmospheric El Riconcillo, famous for its superb raciones (www.elrinconcillo.es) and Corral Del Rey’s helpful staff will be more than happy to guide you there, or furnish you with a list of the best restaurants and bodegas in town. Should you prefer to spend a night in, the hotel’s quaint rooftop terrace, with its extended mirador, is a delightful place to sip a glass of wine, nibble on home-made tapas and take in the sweeping views of the picturesque cityscape. KALIA MICHAELIDES www.corraldelrey.com

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 21

THE ST. REGIS LANGKAWI

LANGKAWI

For decades the 99-island archipelago of Langkawi - a UNESCO World First Geopark, off the western coast of northern Malaysia - has been the weekend destination for Singaporians and Kuala Lumpans in need of a quick fix of sea and sand away from city madness. Langkawi has largely remained everything that Bali has not, i.e. relatively undeveloped with few flash resorts and discreet nightlife, and so the destination has lost little of its natural charm and landscape, managed to retain an air of sophistication, and continues to provide a rather palatable option for those looking for an authentic south-east Asian beachside vacation without the fireworks and late-night shenanigans. The St. Regis Langkawi Resort is the first luxury hotel to open within the last decade in Malaysiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coveted island jewel, and is the upscale hospitality brand's debut property in Malaysia, soon to be followed by The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur scheduled to open in June 2016. Tucked away in an exclusive enclave in its own private cove on Langkawi's southern most tip, St. Regis Langkawi is the first luxury all-suite resort on the islands, and its architectural footprint follows that of a vast, private residential palace, nestled within steep rocky hills, forming two small peninsulas along a sandy shore. A six-storey central mansion, with two lagoon suite wings cascading outwards towards the shorelines, are fringed by a 600-metre private white sand beach overlooking the emerald green waters of a 100,000m2 natural salt swimming lagoon, also private, which merges with the shimmering Andaman Sea. Guests are immersed in a dreamlike atmosphere immediately upon arrival, luxuriating in blue lights, cooling mists and a dramatic garden oasis. The resort's 4 over-water villas and 85 suites - including 20 private pool suites (with their own cabanas) and a four-bedroom over-water villa - are decorated in fresh, light colour schemes inspired by the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brilliant corals, emerald green sea and lush jungles, accented with bold precious metallic touches and local artwork which underscores Langkawi's rich heritage and natural surroundings. All suites boast incredible sunset views and the resort also features a number of deluxe on-site dining options and bars, plus an eight treatment-room Iridium Spa, to further enliven the senses and keep you on property. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.stregis.com/langkawi April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 23

THE HOXTON, HOLBORN London is forever reinventing itself and its hotel scene is no exception. The onset of Airbnb and similar property rental websites, has caused many of the world's metropolises to adjust their accommodation offerings to compete more effectively in what is now a vastly expanded and more cost-conscious arena. Leisure travellers visiting the sometimes pricey British capital - without the benefit of a company expense account - are especially attracted by the many benefits of renting a serviced apartment, which usually offer more space, more privacy and less damage to the holiday budget. The Hoxton group has cleverly stepped into this market, with its funky, no-nonsense, well considered, design-led hotel concept, offering rooms of varying sizes at reasonable prices with the bare necessities included. The first Hoxton hotel won multiple awards and quickly became a destination for eating and drinking in Shoreditch, as well as staying overnight, offering fashionable value for money in the often over-priced City of London. The hotel brand's second outpost, located within a Grade II listed building in High Holborn, a stone's throw (literally) from Covent Garden, offers 174 bedrooms over five floors in four cutesy upfront categories, including the smallest, Shoebox, and largest, Roomy. Each are cleverly and stylishly designed to maximise comfort and space, with duck-down pillows and duvets, plus 280-thread count linen decking beds which feature hand-crafted, Royal Warranted luxury Hypnos mattresses. City slick en-suites are tiled in glossy black and white, with walk-in showers, fluffy towels and American C.O. Bigelow amenities. Room stay guests benefit from free Wi-Fi, an hour of landline phone calls each day, fresh milk, tea, coffee and mineral water, plus a daily breakfast bag filled with orange juice, granola yoghurt pot and banana to kick start the day. Public spaces are run by the immensely skilled Soho House group, and include Hubbard & Bell dishing up classic American grub, Chicken Shop serving rotisserie chicken, and Holborn Grind coffee shop creating frothy cappuccinos and skinny lattĂŠs for the masses. On street level, with a bright shop-front on High Holborn, there's also Cheeky, a funky boutique dedicated to pampering, where guests can indulge in a mani or pedi expeditiously executed by a skilled technician, seven days a week. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.thehoxton.com/london/holborn 24

LONDON

Your new home in Athens

COCO-MAT Hotel Athens 36 Patriarchou Ioakim Str., Kolonaki T +30 210 7230 000 info@cocomatathens.com www.cocomatathens.com

THE SIAM

BANGKOK

The Siam is the complete antithesis to Bangkok’s soaring skyscrapers and cloud-skimming skyline. Located in the Royal Dusit district, on the banks of the Chao Praya River, its distinctly low-rise design and select inventory of just 39 suites and villas, sets it apart from the frantic city as an urban oasis of exclusivity, calm and elegance. Constructed to house the private antique collection of the hotel’s owners, the Sukosol family - fondly dubbed the ‘musical hoteliers’ of Thailand its matriarch and president of Sukosol Hotels, Kamala Sukosol, was Forbes Asia’s Hero of Philanthropy in 2009. Her excellent taste, eye for detail and fondness for all things beautiful are evident throughout The Siam’s interiors, which evoke the grace and splendour of Bangkok’s era under the rule of King Rama V, complete with a dusting of Art Deco touches. A muted colour scheme of black, white, cream, grey and neutral tones, has been skilfully combined with natural textures - including woods, leathers and stone finishes - fashioned by Bill Bensley, name-checked as one of Architectural Digest’s top 100 designers. The result is breathtakingly stylish, sophisticated and most likely timeless. Suites and villas have been individually designed and filled with original Oriental artworks, sculptures and antiques. Exquisite bathrooms of black and white, feature walk-in showers, oversized bathtubs and lavish fittings. Riverview pool villas - of which The Siam has four - have internal gardens, a private swimming pool, an open-air roof terrace and stand to attention in prime position on the riverfront. Every suite at The Siam comes with a personal butler and guests may avail themselves of a private boat service which shuttles between the hotel and Saphan Taksin central pier. Consequently The Siam is almost certainly one of the most chic and cultured addresses in the Thai capital. KALIA MICHAELIDES www.thesiamhotel.com April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 27

COCO-MAT HOTEL ATHENS Despite the country's recent, much publicised financial woes, the capital has largely shrugged-off Greece's economic dramas and conversely benefitted from a surge in international visitors, looking for a good value cultural experiential vacation. After all, Athens is one of the most historic cities in the world, and few sites can compare with its spectacular Acropolis together with the city's wealth of extraordinary ancient relics and museums. Marry these with funky bars and galleries, a booming culinary scene, jumping music industry and a vibrant art culture, and you have the makings of a pulsating city break in incredible surroundings, offering something for everyone locals, tourists, young, old, students, collectors, shoppers and international jet setters alike. Consequently many of Athens' hotels - even the top-end most expensive - regularly run at full capacity, and so finding quality, well-located, reasonably-priced accommodation in the Greek capital is not as easy as one would have thought. In pre crisis days, the old-moneyed neighbourhood of Kolonaki was the go-to place for cash flushed Athenians to power shop for Gucci, Fendi and other designers. Today the high end shops are very much still present in the city's most exclusive district, but Kolonaki is more funky, modern and hip, and so Italian brands trade side-by-side with clothing and accessories designed by Greeks, together with cafés, restaurants and bars, of which the area - particularly around the bustling square - is brimming. The neighbourhood also boasts beautiful architecture, including some stunning buildings which date back to the interwar era, plus some splendid examples of the Athenian modernist movement. Originally built as an apartment block, the 1935 building which houses COCO-MAT Hotel Athens, underwent an extensive transformation to create an exclusive, modern urban hideaway, of 39 rooms and luxury suites for Athens explorers in the know. The hotel interior pays tribute to the understated elegance that the well-known Greek COCO-MAT brand is best known for. Natural materials, subtle colours, gentle tones, raw surfaces, creative décor elements and designer touches, all harmonise perfectly to convey a cool, contemporary feel, and offer a spa-like hospitality retreat from the city's busy streets. Guest rooms feature unique artwork, boast dramatic city or Lycabettus Hill vistas, and obviously the sleep experience - thanks to COCO-MAT’s divine mattresses, pillows and top-end bed linen - is undoubtedly one of the best in Athens. Guests also enjoy free bicycle rental of the hotel’s unique 100% wooden designer cycles. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.cocomatathens.com 28

ATHENS

THE CHEDI CLUB Despite the huge number of tourists Bali attracts year round, and its commercialised adaptation to host and cater to visitors from all walks of life, there are still a few charmingly hidden spots on the island, believe it or not. Away from the surfers and overcrowded areas of Kuta and Seminyak, set on a Balinese hillside, is the village of Ubud, renowned for its artists societies and the cinematic setting of Eat Pray Love. Among endless acres of rice paddies, The Chedi Club sits here in completely secluded solitude. A former private estate turned luxury retreat, the resort occupies five hectares of verdant land, dotted with just twenty luxury vacation pads, overlooking nothing but lotus ponds and rice terraces. Balinese paintings hang on brick walls and wood-carved furniture fill the rooms. Open-air bathrooms connect guests with the environment, and outdoor living spaces provide a calm-enough setting to chill, switch-off and completely detach from the world. For those seeking greater privacy, Spa Pool Villas boast their own treatment room, and a dedicated butler is discreetly on hand to fulfil guests’ every fancy. The Chedi Club’s enchanting onsite restaurant - designed in the local style with a thatched roof and no walls - not only continues the resort’s sense of serenity, but is also one of best eateries in the area, offering Balinese, Western and Asian dishes, all prepared using the freshest ingredients, organic vegetables and rice harvested from adjacent fields. Together with a pool bar, divine onsite spa and yoga studio, there really is very little reason to leave this Balinese haven of peace, relaxation and tranquillity until it’s time to return to the real world. KALIA MICHAELIDES www.ghmhotels.com/en/tanah-gajah/

TANAH GAJAH

KALPITIYA

BLUE KITE Given that it's five hours flying time or less from Hong Kong, Singapore plus the capitals of UAE, Qatar, Oman and Malaysia, in recent years Sri Lanka has become increasingly popular amongst expats looking for an authentic break from their pressurised Middle Eastern and Asian jobs. It's not hard to see why, when the island has plenty to offer and tourists get so much for their holiday dollars. In Sri Lanka you can spend a day walking through spectacular hills, admiring tea plantations and quaint villages, then find yourself on a safari trip looking for leopards and elephants. You can white water raft in the rainforest, then check out for a few days on a picturesque beach and bask in glorious sunshine. Hence the hospitable island nation is now awash with deluxe villas, stand alone boutique guest houses, design-led hotels, colonial retreats, wellness and spa escapes and plush resorts, both inland and all around its 1,300 km of coastline. Of course these range hugely in price, quality, comfort levels and experience. It's easy to find somewhere fancy to rest your head in Sri Lanka, with pricing not dissimilar to the Maldives, which is just a one-hour hop, skip and jump away. But when it comes to quality, value for money and personal service, it's less easy to find somewhere comfy to relax and kick-back without breaking the bank. A holiday doesn't always have to cost an arm and a leg. Not satisfied with creating Udekki - one of the most popular design-led resorts in the sandy haven of Kalpitiya, halfway up Sri Lanka's west coast, boasting some of the world's best kitesurfing conditions - jazz and blues musician, Glen Terry, has recently opened Blue Kite, in tandem with his charming photographer partner, Carolyn McKay. A delightful, four-bedroom bijou resort, built around a sublime oversized swimming pool, this is not an overpriced 5-star hotel, but a mid-priced super-comfy retreat, bedecked with designer touches and serviced by a small, personal and friendly team, for whom literally nothing is too much trouble. From the gorgeous fabrics, plush pillows and luxe bed linens, to the authentic wooden furnishings and hand-picked local art, Carolyn's eye for detail and good taste are evident everywhere, and provide just the right balance between necessity and luxury. Rooms are oversized with traditional four-poster beds, open bathrooms with walk-in showers and plenty of space to lounge. Delicious meals produced using fresh, local ingredients and locally-caught fish and crustaceans (the crab and lobster in this part of the world are superb), can either be served in your room or poolside, and you can eat what you like when you like. Nothing is set in stone at Blue Kite, and some of the island's best kitesurfing is just a few metres away. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.bluekitekalpitiya.com April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 33

MARRAKECH

ROYAL MANSOUR

Morocco is one of the most diverse countries in the world, touching both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, with a fascinating culture descended from European, Berber, Arab and African influences. With its sweeping desert, dramatic mountains, colourful medinas, vibrant souks and luxurious hotels, Morocco is a destination that is on pretty much everybody’s bucket list. Marrakech - a former imperial city steeped in history, abundant with architectural gems - is now home to the exquisite Royal Mansour, located in its heart. A design masterpiece, the hotel skilfully blends its ancestors’ heritage with architecture echoing its homeland, together with native artisan craftsmanship and modern amenities, creating a truly unique and prestigious vacation address. Comprising 53 riads - each of one to four bedrooms - all guests at Royal Mansour enjoy private accommodation which spans three floors. Riads range in size from a one-bedroom Superior of 150m2, to the 850m2 three-bedroom Prestige and on to the huge, sprawling Grand Riad of four bedrooms, akin to a Moroccan palace. At the centre of every riad, on the ground floor, is an interior courtyard leading to a living room, bar and outdoor patio. Larger riads also feature a dining room, swimming pool, steam room and hammam. The private rooms of each riad - the bedrooms and bathrooms - are located on the first floor, whilst roof terraces boast a private plunge pool and fireplace under a traditional Moroccan tent, to a backdrop of views over the medina, gardens or snow-covered Atlas Mountains. Lavish silks and brocades, plus carefully placed local art, give each riad its own unique identity. Gastronomy plays an important role at Royal Mansour, with three distinctive restaurants entrusted to renowned three Michelin-starred chef, Yannick Alléno. Each outlet offers a different culinary journey, whether modern dining, redefined local cuisine or a French feast. KALIA MICHAELIDES www.royalmansour.com

E PRIZ TH WOR 00 2,6 EUR

WIN

A TWO-NIGHT STAY AT SAN CLEMENTE PALACE KEMPINSKI

Spend two nights in splendid Venice, staying at the palatial San Clemente in a lagoon view Grand Deluxe Room, complete with a pair of Aperol Spritz sun-downer cocktails at Garden Bar on your first evening, breakfast each morning at Insieme, and a three-course gourmet dinner for two at Acquerello including wine pairing. To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM.

Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 31 May 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of June 2016. This prize can be used until 31 December 2016, subject to room availability. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties. 36

VENICE

SAN CLEMENTE PALACE KEMPINSKI La Serenissima casts a spell over visitors like few other cities in Europe. Countless myths and stories abound about Venice, and the lagoon city has been the star of numerous books and movies. Ten minutes away from Piazza San Marco by boat, is the private island of San Clemente, filled with four acres of lush parkland, intimate gardens, historic courtyards, a stunning 12th century church and a sprawling former monastery which is now home to a deluxe Kempinski hotel. San Clemente Palace is the perfect base from which to explore the famous city, and retreat back to after a day amongst the throngs of tourists, to your own personal haven of splendour, decadence and peace. Public spaces are opulently adorned with luxe silks, lavish brocades and Murano chandeliers, whilst three restaurants provide a selection of on-site dining options. Guests start the day with breakfast at Insieme, located in the hotel's picturesque inner courtyard complete with ancient well. In the heart of the park - beside the swimming pool which is the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life and soul during the summer months - La Dolce is Venetian resort living personified, serving classic Mediterranean fare and pizzas from a traditional wood-fired oven. At elegant fine dining restaurant Acquerello, modern gastronomic delights and Italian haute cuisine sit side-by-side on the menu, and diners mangiare to a backdrop of breathtaking Piazza San Marco views. Equipped with a hotel-prepared gourmet picnic basket, guests can also stroll around the island and find a romantic spot to dine al fresco, surrounded by established cypresses, blooming hydrangea and dozens of lime trees, radiating their sweet, intoxicating scent in June and July. 190 rooms and suites boast views of the park, Venice skyline, lagoon or lido. Wide, spacious corridors and vaulted cloisters lead to guest ac-commodations decorated in a classic style with warm, calming colours, high ceilings lending an air of grandness. Situated next to the kids club and La Dolce restaurant and bar, the Giardini Suite is a private holiday chalet of almost 100m2, consisting of two separate sleeping areas, two bathrooms, a shared lounge and its own private garden. Located in the monastery's former laundry is the hotel's largest suite at 164m2, San Clemente, with wooden beamed ceilings, state-of-the-art gadgetry and a huge tub with a rather splendid view. By combining the San Clemente Suite with seven adjoining suites in the same building, an exclusive private palazzo - completely separate from the hotel - can be reserved for a family, wedding party or pop star and entourage, complete with a dedicated pier for yachts of up to 35 metres. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.kempinski.com/en/venice/san-clemente-palace-kempinski

We are honoured and privileged to be ranked No. 25 on

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Please contact us at reservations@ministryofcrab.com as early as possible to avoid disappointment. Open Daily

Lunch 11.30 A.M. to 3 P.M. | Dinner 6 P.M. to 11 P.M. Closed on Poya Days:

April 22nd, May 21st, June 20th, July 6th, July 20th, August 18th, September 16th October 16th, November 14th & December 14th

011 234 CRAB (2722) | www.ministryofcrab.com

'm a fan of India and particularly enjoy the extremes of colour, sights, sounds and scents. Perhaps because my day-to-day life is largely played-out in cities, I simply adore the brightness, chaos, serenity, delicacy, and the good, bad and ugly of being in India. And despite what any brochure or tour operator might tell you, there is often a lot of ugly when visiting any country that is still developing and finding its feet. Travelling to a country in this part of the world is an assault on all the senses, but for those ready to appreciate new things and absorb different experiences,

there is nothing quite like visiting India for the vacation of a lifetime. For those not so adventurous, less travelled and perhaps a little time pressured, Sri Lanka is a much better option. In two words, Sri Lanka is India light. It's more personal, more affectionate and a lot less drama. Invariably this is because Sri Lanka's a small nation - no bigger than Ireland - with a population of barely 20 million, compared to more than one billion in India, rendering the Indian Ocean island infinitely more intimate and exclusive. That the country relies so heavily on tourism also has a lot to do with

During the past two millennia, there has barely been a century in Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tumultuous past, when the country wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t occupied, invaded or ravaged by war, yet its people have maintained their dignity, drive and ingenuity.

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 39

SAMBODHI CHAITHYA TEMPLE

the friendly disposition of its people. It’s much easier to developed a fondness for Sri Lanka and its people that I travel to Sri Lanka. Visas are cheaper and obtaining one is cannot entirely explain. During the past two millennia, there less hassle. Tourist transactions generally go more smoothly, has barely been a century in Sri Lanka’s tumultuous past, best-laid plans tend to pan out, hotels almost always deliver when the country wasn’t occupied, invaded or ravaged by and planes generally leave on time, with Sri Lanka’s national war; yet its people have maintained their dignity, drive and flag carrier leading the way. But like many South Asian ingenuity, and are especially kind to tourists. Perhaps this countries - where the wealth is concentrated in the capital explains my affection for the country. It’s almost certainly a and much of the rest of the country lives a much more basic trait which sets the island apart from many other South life - of course Sri Lanka has its social extremes. There are Asian holiday destinations. Sri Lankans are warm, the rich, middle classes and poor, and then there are the industrious and polite, always willing to help, and keen to downright keep abreast of destitute, but no trends and new Halfway up the island's west coast and home to holidaymaker can technology. change this - no Nothing around six million people, in recent years Colombo matter how many showcases this has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing times one visits more succinctly, Asian warmth with international influences to create and so its than a humming city that is positively booming. recommended Colombo-based that travellers “Pick Me”, which pre-prepare and cleverly brings try to accept a destination’s social status quo before leaving together tuk-tuks, mini taxis (tiny cars) and cabs in one home. convenient app, making hailing a tuk-tuk in Colombo a hugely less traumatising experience than anywhere else in When it comes to scenery and culinary experiences, Sri Asia. Sri Lanka caught on to tourism a long time ago, Lanka is one of the most beautiful countries I've visited and became tourist savvy earlier than India, and has since has some of the best food to have passed my lips (I’m not a become one of the most popular destinations in the Asia fan of spicy foods, yet have always managed to leave a few Pacific region, not least due to the island's relatively easy kilos heavier), and Sri Lankans are some of the most accessibility from the rest of the world. But to date, most charming people I've encountered on any trip. From the very international visitors have tended to land at Bandaranaike first time I visited the island nation a few years ago, I Airport, swiftly exit the city limits of Colombo, and head to 40 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

DUTCH HOSPITAL

GANGARAMAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE

the island’s seaside resorts without giving the capital a thought. I was as guilty of this as anyone else until I spent a few nights in Colombo six months ago (after a beach holiday) and discovered - much to my surprise - a thriving, captivating, multi-faceted metropolis with tons of charisma.

ARCADE INDEPENDENCE SQUARE

head, and Colombo has an abundance of independent, boutique, privately owned and historic hotels to choose from. When well-known high-end chains like Shangri-La and Grand Hyatt are busy building huge five-star hotels, it’s a clear indication that a city’s fortunes are definitely on the rise. Shangri-La’s new 33-storey 543-room Colombo hotel is Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six due to open in 2017, and will also feature more than 400 million people, in recent years Colombo has emerged as a luxury apartments in a separate tower of 50 floors. cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing Asian warmth with Meanwhile Grand Hyatt’s 47-storey Colombo outpost of 475 international influences to create a humming city that is guestrooms is destined to be the tallest in the city, set right positively on the city’s booming with Indian Ocean The Cultured Traveller’s lodgings of choice in new businesses seafront. The and Cultured Colombo were the iconic and lovingly-restored Galle entrepreneurial Traveller’s Face Hotel, quite possibly one of the most start-ups. lodgings of choice captivating and magical hotels I’d ever had the Although in Colombo were pleasure to reside in. reclaiming its 19th the iconic and century nickname, lovingly-restored 'the garden city of Galle Face Hotel, the East', is still a little way off (there’s barely any grass on quite possibly one of the most captivating and magical the city centre’s renowned Galle Face Green), Colombo is hotels I’d ever had the pleasure to reside in. Like stepping now a must-see stop in Sri Lanka and has become a worthy back into romantic, colonial times - when the country was destination in its own right, for its fascinating heritage, known as Ceylon - waking every morning to the sound of colonial monuments, super shopping, culture at every turn the sea outside my window, gently reminded me exactly and hospitable locals, together with some of Asia’s best where I was and set me up perfectly for the days of restaurants, all encompassed in a bustling city with a exploration ahead. Cities situated on the sea’s edge have a town-like charm. way of beguiling visitors, and the allure of a hotel set on top of the ocean is even harder to resist. Galle Face Hotel oozes No city break can happen without a decent place to rest your nostalgia from every brick, and I couldn’t have wished for a

more enigmatic and hospitable base for my long weekend in the city. Unlike many other Asian destinations, Sri Lanka can genuinely lay claim to being a year-round holiday destination. Whilst the average temperature in Colombo rarely varies +/- 5 degrees, the city experiences daytime humidity in excess of 70% all year, rising to around 90% during monsoon season. So, despite my original intentions to discover the city from a tuk-tuk to fully absorb the city’s streets, I was well-advised (by the hotel) to explore Colombo from the back of an air-conditioned vehicle with an experienced local at the wheel. Thank god I heeded the hotel’s advice… there was so much to see in Colombo, it would have been impossible to visit as much as I did without my trusty driver and comfy ride. Some of the city’s sights which you simply must see, include Independence Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Sri Ponnambalam Vanesar Kovil, the old Colombo Dutch Hospital complex, and the striking red and white Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque. Also well worth a visit, and not on the usual tourist trail, is the stunning 1950s temple of Sambodhi Chaithya, built atop two huge, intersecting concrete arches on Chaithya Road, close to the port, just past the lighthouse. It’s said to have been built so high so that the stupa can be seen by sailors at sea. Climbing its 300 steps is a little tiring in the humidity, but the view from the top is spectacular and the detailed Buddhist murals which cover the inner walls of the stupa - are quite beautiful. The best time to shop in Colombo is in the morning before it gets hot, or mid-late afternoon. Either way there is a tremendous variety of stores, boutiques, markets and designer shops around the city, to spend your holiday cash. The 17th century colonial architecture of the old Dutch hospital has been renovated to provide a magnificent setting for upmarket dining and shopping, at its core the renowned Ministry Of Crab, which has multiple sittings every day to accommodate the vast numbers of diners who visit this hugely popular restaurant to feast on Sri Lankan lagoon crabs (see TASTE section). Across town, Arcade Independence Square converted from a collection of renovated white colonial buildings - is a spacious,

COMMEMORATION HALL April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 43

Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six million people, in recent years Colombo has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing Asian warmth with international influences to create a humming city that is positively booming.

deluxe mall which houses a variety of restaurants and boutiques, surrounded by expanses of greenery. This is a lovely part of the city to spend an afternoon, taking in the splendid architecture of Commemoration Hall, adjacent to the arcade, whose design is based on the magnificent royal audience hall in Kandy, just over 100 km away. One hundred years ago Sri Lanka’s capital used to be a lush garden city. But whilst palms and botanical gardens may not be so plentiful in the Colombo of today, the legacies of its colonial roots are still very much intact along its boulevards, many of them delicately shaded, making for delightful early evening walks. Even oft traffic congested Galle Road bordered on one side by large hotel complexes and on the other by Galle Face Green and the ocean - can make for a pleasant stroll, before the first cocktail of the night at Traveller’s Bar at Galle Face Hotel. It would be an understatement to say Colombo’s restaurant

scene is cosmopolitan. A number of international cuisines are readily available in the city - including Japanese, French, Italian and Chinese - with two of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants located in the Sri Lankan capital. With such a huge choice of quality eateries - as well as street food, authentic local restaurants and pavement cafés - you’ll never go hungry in Colombo. And whilst nightlife was pretty much all but absent a few years ago in Colombo, some happening nightspots have recently popped up, creating the beginnings of a late night party scene, so there’s always somewhere to go if you want to sip cocktails or have a bit of a boogie until the early hours. With so much to see, do, buy and savour, the fast-growing, characterful and energetic city of Colombo provides an ideal location to spend a long weekend exploring its many facets, or spend three or four nights at the start or end of your Sri Lankan adventure uncovering its abundant jewels. Be sure not to bypass the charismatic Sri Lankan capital next time you visit its enchanting motherland.

STAY GALLE FACE HOTEL Built in 1864 and recently restored back to its former glory, Colombo’s historic Galle Face Hotel, is the first choice of lodgings for cultured travellers visiting the Sri Lankan capital, and is almost certainly the city’s best address. Its combination of history, luxury, modern conveniences, friendly staff, restaurants and bars, together with an enviable position on the edge of the Indian Ocean, make for an award winning hospitality combination. Marry this with a range of deluxe rooms, opulent suites and the hotel’s city centre location, and you have the makings of an unforgettable stay experience in Colombo. Read about The Empress Suite at Galle Face Hotel on page 56 of this issue. www.gallefacehotel.com

IMAGE COURTESY OF GALLE FACE HOTEL

SEE SRI PONNAMBALAM VANESAR KOVIL This breathtaking, sacred Hindu temple remarkably detailed and highly revered - located in the centre of Colombo, is unique in that it's constructed entirely of granite. Devotees visit from across Sri Lanka to pray here to Lord Shiva. JAMI UL-ALFAR MOSQUE One of the oldest mosques in Colombo, this striking red and white structure - located in the heart of a busy downtown shopping area - was designed in 1908 by H. L. Saibo Lebbe, and is well worth seeing in the flesh for its intricate and boldy contrasting patterns. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF COLOMBO The largest museum in the country - which inhabits a vast, splendid colonial building - was founded in 1877 by Sir William Henry Gregory, the British Governor of Ceylon at the time, and houses many of Sri Lanka's national treasures and grand regalia. VIHARAMAHADEVI PARK The city's oldest and largest public space, provides a beautiful and peaceful respite in the heart of the bustling metropolis, for residents to stroll among flowering trees, tranquil ponds and historic monuments. GANGARAMAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE The striking architecture of this unique and beautiful temple - which incorporates Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian and Chinese influences - is one of the most important and revered places of Buddhist worship in Colombo.

JAMI UL-ALFAR MOSQUE

IMAGE BY NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

TASTE MINISTRY OF CRAB Probably Sri Lanka's most famous, and one of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, celebrity chef Dharshan Munidasa’s second eatery (co-owned with cricketing legends Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara), is known for celebrating the country’s famous lagoon crab, which is held in particularly high regard in Singapore. Ministry of Crab is the first restaurant in Sri Lanka dedicated to serving the island’s export quality crabs. Booking in advance is essential since Ministry of Crab is always busy. www.ministryofcrab.com CAFÉ FRANÇAIS Nestled on a pretty pedestrian street in the heart of Colombo's central business district, this superb all day café, bar, wine cellar and restaurant venue, serves the best French bistro-style cuisine in the city, to a backdrop of great music, fine wines, tasty cocktails and quality champagnes, delivered by super-professional staff in chic yet warm and comfortable surroundings. www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com SUGAR BISTRO & WINE BAR This modern culinary and drinking meeting place serves hearty dishes from around the world, complete with a good international wine list, and is conveniently located at the entrance to Crescat Boulevard mall, in the heart of Colombo's shopping district, right across the street from Galle Face Hotel. www.sugarcolombo.com/sugar-bistro-wine-bar/ KAEMA SUTRA Located on the ground floor of Independence Square Arcade, and co-owned by Sri Lankan international film actress, Jacqueline Fernandez, Kaema Sutra serves contemporary Sri Lankan dishes with a modern take on flavours, in a beautiful, airy colonial dining room. Try the restaurant's famous gourmet egg hoppers, and the boneless goat curry is delectable. www.kaemasutra.com THE 1864 This much-celebrated fine dining restaurant and wine cellar serves exquisite, modern European cuisine in highly civilised, spacious surroundings, prepared by executive chef, Adam Gaunt-Evans. The "Land and Sea" main course of green curry lamb cutlet and Trincomalee Barramundi, served with up-country vegetables, is exceptional. www.gallefacehotel.com/the-1864.php NIHONBASHI Without doubt the best restaurant in Colombo, and one of Asia's 50 Best, Dharshan Munidasa's temple to Japanese cuisine, has been open for more than two decades and will no doubt continue to attract customers for another 20 years, so consistently high is the quality of the food. The simplicity of Nihonbashi’s dishes highlights the excellent ingredients used, eight different private dining rooms cater for parties of 2 to 22 and eating at Nihonbashi is always an occasion. www.nihonbashi.lk

IMAGE COURTESY OF MINSTRY OF CRAB

IMAGE COURTESY OF CAFÉ FRANÇAIS 52

SIP

TRAVELLER'S BAR Grab an armchair, listen to the sound of the waves crashing a few metres away, feel the sea breeze on your skin, and sip an expertly prepared cocktail, in the sophisticated surroundings of Galle Face Hotel's historic Traveller's Bar - one of the best places in Colombo to start the evening. www.gallefacehotel.com/travellers-bar.php ON14 Visit modern, funky hotel, OZO Colombo, for a sundowner cocktail at its hip 14th floor rooftop lounge, ON14, and watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean from one of the best vantage points in the city. www.ozohotels.com/colombo-srilanka/ CAFÉ FRANÇAIS This venue is so good we had to include it in both the Taste and Sip sections. By night, Café Français morphs into an upscale wine bar, where - especially at weekends - Colombo's fashionistas and style-conscious set descend to sip cocktails and gently boogie to sophisticated tunes provided by a rotating line-up of DJs. www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com 41 SUGAR Located within the site of the Gymkhana Club, which dates back to colonial times, this stylish rooftop venue boasts an excellent bar, huge range of spirits, superb wine list and the friendly service is lightning fast. Perfect for digestifs after dinner or pre-club cocktails. www.sugarcolombo.com/41sugar/ SILK By far the best nightclub in town, this extremely popular late night spot boasts superb music provided by local and international DJs, seating which can be pre-booked and a state-of-the-art sound system. www.sugarcolombo.com/club-silk/

SPEND BAREFOOT Everything for sale in Barefoot is about good design and made in Sri Lanka, either by workers at home or by artists and craftsmen. There are no factories and no production lines; each Barefoot worker is responsible for the quality of his or her final product. Barefoot's gorgeous fabrics are bright, colourful and hardwearing, and weaved by hand in small workshops, most of which are located in the countryside just outside Colombo. Clothes, bags, household linen and toys made from Barefoot textiles are perfect to take-home or gift to loved-ones. www.barefootceylon.com ODEL Containing numerous concessions and selling everything from exotic sarees and Sri Lankan gifts to designer clothing and kiddies toys, Odel at Alexandra Place, is a giant, one-stop department store - comprising more than 30,000 sq ft. of shopping possibilities - including a funky al fresco foodcourt - The Boulevard - which is a great place to pit stop for a gelato, fresh juice or caffeine fix to keep your energy levels topped-up to get through the store's many departments. www.odel.lk/odel-stores L'ATELIER TOUCHĂ&#x2030; Owned and managed by two of Colombo's most fashionable ladies Catherine Obrenovic and Heidy Rampinelli - Sri Lanka's newest upscale women's fashion boutique, L'Atelier TouchĂŠ retails an inspiring collection designed to create a contemporary chic and elegant European look. www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lk LAKSALA Since this state owned gift and souvenir retailer was established in 1982, Laksala has been retailing a wide and eclectic blend of items at reasonable prices, ranging from teas and spices to furniture, colourful batik ware and a large selection of art, crafts and giftware, plus a wide selection of traditional Sri Lankan gems and jewellery. The Laksala store at Colombo's National Museum is the biggest branch in the city. www.laksala.gov.lk

IMAGE COURTESY OF BAREFOOT

The Empress Suite Galle Face Hotel

Upper Suite The Upper House

TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS Perched on a plateau two thousand metres above sea level facing the plunging gorges and dramatic rock formations of Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green Mountain, Alila Jabal Akhdar has been designed to sit in perfect harmony with its breathtaking location. This unique destination is a sanctuary dedicated to the peace and splendour of the mountain and the serenity it has to offer.

As temperatures drop the summer haze clears and immaculate blue sky days are followed by crystal clear nights awash with the brightest stars. Take advantage of the perfect winter climate and make a luxuriously spacious suite your home from which to explore the beautiful and fascinating interior regions of the Sultanate. Or simply unwind in the elegant haven of Spa Alila and indulge in a culinary experience which embraces the best of Omani and international cuisine.

For reservations email: jabalakhdar@alilahotels.com Like us on

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w w w. al i l ahotel s . c o m

uilt during colonial rule when Sri Lanka was known as Ceylon, Galle Face Hotel has been part of the nation’s heritage - and at the epicentre of the country's capital - since 1864. It was then that four British entrepreneurs saw an opportunity to offer upmarket lodgings to the travelling elite, who had identified the island as a tropical destination and were visiting in steadily increasing numbers, especially from Europe. The hotel started its life as a much smaller Dutch villa called Galle Face House, borrowing its name from the vast green along the coast in front of it, which back then included a racecourse and promenade. Built one section at a time over the next thirty years as land became available, GFH (as it is affectionately known by many) was for several years the oldest hotel east of Suez. Colombo's hospitality landmark predates Bangkok's Mandarin Oriental built in 1876, Mumbai's Taj Mahal built in 1903, Singapore's Raffles built in 1910 and Hong Kong's Peninsula built in 1928. In fact, Galle Face Hotel was operational almost a quarter of a century before Conrad Hilton was even born.

THE GALLE FACE HOTEL IN 1886

More than one and a half centuries after débuting on Colombo's Indian Ocean seafront, Sri Lanka's hospitality grande dame is positively thriving - after a major refurb - under the expert stewardship of British General Manager, Antony Paton. The delicate and thoughtful restoration program took more than ﬁve years to complete, but was very much worth the wait, bringing into the 21st century 72 rooms and suites in the hotel's north wing, bars and restaurants, Galle Face’s imposing lobby, plus two beautiful ballrooms, all of which were overhauled and sensitively returned to their original architectural grandeur, at the same time introducing contemporary conveniences and modern technologies whilst not compromising the unique feel and history of the building. A new ocean-view 25-metre executive lounge was also added - The Long Room - for VIP and suite guests. Overall, the tenderly executed renovation gave birth to a completely refreshed stay experience, reignited a bygone era, rejuvenated a national monument and introduced an iconic hotel to a whole new generation of cultured travellers. It's rare to ﬁnd such a charming place to

THE GALLE FACE HOTEL IN 2016

rest your head, which exudes class, quality, warmth and calm in one uniquely characterful building. Service is delivered with genuine kindness and grace, and the staﬀ repeatedly go out of their way - obviously proud of their historic workplace - to ensure that guests have a memorable stay and leave with fond memories.

Edinburgh, Emperor Hirohito of Japan and Richard Nixon. In fact, Prince Philip’s ﬁrst car - a 1935 model Standard Nine - now enjoys pride of place in the hotel’s in-house museum, which is a delightful place to while away an hour learning about Galle Face’s riveting history.

It takes a good day or so - after checking-in - to settle into the rhythm of Galle Face Hotel, but once you’re in the swing of things it’s very hard to tear yourself away, and I can understand why so many visitors became long-stay guests during the hotel’s fascinating past. Numerous renowned authors found Galle Face to be an inspiring and tranquil place to pen their thoughts, including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Mark Twain and Anton Chekhov. Stars of the glorious celluloid era - including Alec Guinness, Ursula Andress and Laurence Olivier, and more recently Scarlett Johansson - have all found peace within the walls of GFH away from their hectic globetrotting lifestyles. Somewhat unsurprisingly, royalty and statesmen from all over the world have also stayed, including Indira Gandhi, Prince Philip - Duke of

Possibly the largest hotel suite in Sri Lanka, The Empress Suite, is named after the last French Empress, Eugénie de Montijo, as she became known in France. Eugénie ﬁrst met her future husband, President Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte, at a reception at the Elysée Palace. On 29 January 1853, Eugénie married Emperor Napoléon III of France in a civil ceremony at the Tuileries Palace, followed by a much grander aﬀair the next day at France's most important cathedral, Notre Dame. It was Eugénie - as Empress of France - who formally inaugurated the Suez Canal in 1859, which opened a gateway to travellers from Europe visiting Asia. Some years later, when she was in her eighties, the Empress sent word to Sir Thomas Lipton - the world famous tea merchant - that she wished to visit April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 59

Ceylon. Lipton made all necessary arrangements for Her Majesty, who was accommodated in special apartments at Galle Face Hotel. The Empress and her entourage remained in residence for seven weeks. Given the palatial surroundings of The Empress Suite it’s not hard to see why she stayed so long. A majestic dining area at the centre of which two glittering crystal chandeliers hang over a huge oval marble table - is separated from the regal lounge by two pairs of stately pillars. Tall doors from the lounge open out onto a vast terrace facing Galle Face Green - large enough to host cocktails for 100 guests and occupying the entire roof of the hotel’s charismatic carriage porch underneath, now beautifully restored and ready to welcome vehicles arriving for another 150 years. The suite comprises three, huge high-ceilinged bedrooms, sprawling balustraded balconies, oversized bathrooms and a half-kitchen accessed from the hall outside, so the cosseted inhabitants are not disturbed when room service is delivered. The master bath is a beautifully crafted exercise in chic, contemporary design - all Italian marble, matt walls, black wooden floors and delicate lighting - skillfully juxtaposing the suite’s adjacent grand salon with a dash of slick, modern living: the walk-in shower big enough for four, the freestanding bath a couple’s delight and the marble sink counter stretching to more than three metres. Lavish, damask curtains draping down from the ceilings abound at every turn. The armchairs in the lounge are so deep you sit into them rather than on them. Cushions are so plentiful and pillows so plush that once seated you may never get up. So deluxe is the level of comfort, that for the best part of a day and night I found it nigh on impossible to leave the suite, ordering both lunch and dinner to be delivered, and curling-up on the sofa when darkness fell, utterly oblivious to the noise of the tuk-tuks clamoring outside. I could have stayed for days. I’m envious that Empress Eugénie got to stay for seven weeks. Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in The Empress Suite in February 2016. In April and May 2016 the average nightly rate for the three-bedroom Empress Suite is USD 3,500 inclusive of breakfast, airport transfers and taxes. www.gallefacehotel.com

CULTUREDCHAT WITH BRIAN CLIVAZ BRIAN CLIVAZ IS A WELL-KNOWN FIGURE IN THE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT WORLD. HIS CAREER BEGAN IN THE KITCHENS OF THE DORCHESTER, UNDER THE TUTELAGE OF ANTON MOSIMANN. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHATTED WITH CLIVAZ ON THE EVE OF THE OPENING OF HIS NEW DEVONSHIRE CLUB IN THE CITY OF LONDON

What lured you into a career in the catering and hospitality industry? Speaking to my father about a career, he told me that he didn’t mind what I did, as long as I didn’t go into catering - and I always did what my father told me!

Was there a lot of cooking in the Clivaz household when you were young? My mother was an excellent cook. She bought the Sophia Loren cookbook and made almost every recipe in it. As my father worked for British Airways, my parents used to travel a lot, and my mother was always coming back with recipes from far off lands. She was one of the first to cook pizza from scratch and we children were always asked to help with the cooking, which I loved.

Tell us about your first catering job. Having ignored my father’s advice, I entered the catering world. He had said that if I was to work in catering, I would have to start at the bottom as an apprentice chef. The maître chef at the Dorchester was a fellow Swiss friend, Eugene Kauffler, so I got a job there. On my first day I was so excited. It was daunting joining a kitchen with 100 other chefs but so thrilling - and I’ve never regretted it.

What was your experience of working with Anton Mosimann and would you care to share an anecdote? Anton Mosimann was among the first of the new

wave of chefs, along with Michel Guérard and Roger Vergé, to develop a new lighter concept of cooking. He had worked in Japan and brought their work methods to his kitchen, including a calmness and intelligence. When Anton Mosimann approached the stove to cook, everybody stopped what they were doing to watch the master at work. If he asked for a whisk, there was a long line of chefs waiting to hand it to him, and as they passed the whisk from one to the other, each chef would polish the whisk, so that when it eventually reached him it was shinier than new. I remember an incident one day we were cooking a banquet for Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret. After the fish course, the maître d’ shouted at Mr Mosimann that HRH was waiting: Mosimann calmly turned to him and said, “even princesses have to wait for perfection”.

How would you say that Mosimann's skills as a chef compare to those of today's celebrity chefs? Celebrity chefs have their place in the media but there are few great chefs in any generation. Mosimann is without doubt one of the greatest chefs in the world today, so there is no comparison.

What promoted your move to Paris after your stint at the Dorchester? I moved to Paris because experience abroad is essential, but I also wanted to prove to myself that I

Pierre Koffman Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

Marianne Faithfull

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller Peter Blake Danny La Rue

The Beatles Sam Smith Marco Pierre White Nigel Havers

Eartha Kit Imelda Staunton

Kenneth Halliwell

Joe OrtonPeter CookElton John

Paloma Faith Coco Chanel Beryl Cook

Francis Bacon

Frankie Howard

Dudley Moore

Lucien Freud Diana Judi Dench General de Gualle

Ella Fitzgerald Janis Joplin

Laurence Olivier

Edward Heath Cleo Laine

Stephen Fry Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution Since 1927 Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant & Club Privé

L’ Escargot Depuis 1927

Monday to Sunday: All day until 1am

• 48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

could do the same work in a foreign country using a foreign language. My ambition was to become a receptionist at a five star hotel in Paris and I was delighted when eventually the Le Meurice hotel took me on in that role. I absolutely loved working in Paris and my love for Paris today is as strong as ever.

How did working in France contribute to your career? I worked very hard in Paris, holding down two jobs at once, and even though it was quite exhausting I proved to myself that I had stamina. The most important event in Paris was when I served HM King Hussein of Jordan at the Plaza Athénée. I had met him during my time at The Dorchester, but in Paris I spoke to him much more frequently. One afternoon he said to me “we have all been given roles to perform in this life, but we must remember that on the day of judgement, in the eyes of God, we are all equal”. I have always kept that with me.

The London members club scene has exploded in the past few decades. Did you see this coming? No, I had no idea that the private club scene would explode in the way it has. It is highly competitive nowadays in a way that it never

was - however I believe it still has a long way to go.

How did you get involved in Home House? My plans to further develop Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, where I was MD, were rejected by our owners, The Savoy, and as a result I decided to do something else. A new private club seemed a good idea - somewhere grand like The Travellers, with great rooms and excellent food - but at the same time somewhere guests in T-shirts and (clean) jeans could come. I found Home House by chance while two of my chess friends, Tony Buzan and Raymond Keene, were lunching with Christopher Portman who proceeded to tell me about an empty building he owned. After much angst, that building became a private club. As for the dress code, we only had one rule, “nudity discouraged”!

Would you say that London is where the private members club was born? Yes, certainly - the oldest clubs in the world are in London, they started as coffee houses. White’s, Brooks’s, and Boodle’s are the oldest. Whilst clubs are opening up all over the world, some countries still find the concept bizarre.

MY MOTHER WAS AN EXCELLENT COOK. SHE BOUGHT THE SOPHIA LOREN COOKBOOK AND MADE ALMOST EVERY RECIPE IN IT

Under your stewardship as its MD, The Arts Club grew into one of London's

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

most successful members clubs. How did you achieve this? I was determined that The Arts Club, founded by Lord Leighton and Charles Dickens, would not die. Its closure was imminent when I forced my way in. I was doggedly determined that it would not fail. By stealth, I managed to change the constitution and bring in new investors and partners. Arjun Waney of Zuma, Roka and La Petite Maison, agreed to invest and to bring his experienced kitchen brigade; and Gary Landesberg, a property magnet, brought his considerable financial skills and became Chairman. The impetus of these partners was the catalyst for rapid change. Together we refurbished and relaunched the club - it became a Mayfair club for the international arts community.

What would you say are the most important ingredients to running a vibrant members club in London? The most important element is the building: it has to have character, as well as the infrastructure to support a vibrant club. Secondly, the Founding Members play a key role as they give the club its backbone and atmosphere.

Together with business partner Laurence Isaacson, you took over

We heard whispers that L’Escargot, London’s oldest French restaurant, was for sale and that a Russian group were interested to turn it into a Russian restaurant. Laurence had just come back to the UK for retirement - after having lived in New York - and talking over lunch, we both agreed that he was too young to retire and that he had another restaurant in him. I’m a restaurant romantic and was keen for this establishment to live on. It pains me to see Chez Victor as a pizzeria, and A L’Ecu de France a shoe shop! We knew we could revive its fortunes - and working in Soho was a real draw for us.

L'Escargot opened in 1927 and was the first restaurant in the UK to serve fresh snails. Who supplies the restaurant's snails today and how do you like yours served? Our snails are reared at Credenhill Farm in Hereford. Richard Fishbourne, the owner, is passionate about his snails and ensures they are reared in a natural, organic environment. They also supply Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck of snail

WHILST MEMBERS CLUBS ARE OPENING UP ALL OVER THE WORLD, SOME COUNTRIES STILL FIND THE CONCEPT BIZARRE

L'ESCARGOT 66 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

L'Escargot a couple of years ago. What did you both see in this London dining institution?

DEVONSH

porridge fame. Personally I love them served traditionally with garlic and parsley, and, of course, ours are the best!

thing to turn them into a club. We have quite an eclectic mix of members from Sam Smith and Tom Hardy, to Barbara Windsor and Paloma Faith.

We understand that dogs are welcome at L'Escargot. Is there a special menu for pooches and what's your dog's favourite meal?

Who has been the most perfectly-behaved celebrity guest in one of your clubs or restaurants?

In every establishment I have worked in, dogs have been welcome. I cannot understand why more places do not welcome them, not least since they are generally better behaved than many customers! Doris loves pigs ears, and once I even gave her pigs nose with parsley sauce as a special treat!

David Beckham is always an absolute gentleman with the staff, fellow members and guests, but the award has to go by a whisker to Prince Harry.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

Devonshire Club is due to open mid-June this year, so we have been quite frantic sorting everything. It’s about time the City treated itself to a proper Mayfair club. The City of London has changed so much over the last few years and it’s now a vibrant 7-day environment. As the East End has become so eclectically charged, this has begun to pour into the City, and in the next few years you will see a massive enhancement of the offerings. Devonshire Club will be part of that catalyst for change. Our club has 68 bedrooms, a large brasserie, private dining rooms, a gym and a beauty salon, plus a wonderful hedged garden.

I love the Oberoi Group. Every Oberoi I have stayed in has been magnificent. They are unparalleled in India, but Dubai and Mauritius are fantastic too. Otherwise it has to be Hôtel Costes in Paris: naughty, arrogant, decadent and above all else, sexy.

What prompted you to open Upstairs - the members club above L'Escargot - and what type of clientele does it attract? We had a number of smaller rooms above the restaurant and it seemed the natural

HIRE CLUB

Tell us about your new private members' club, the Devonshire Club, due to open shortly in the City of London?

UPSTAIRS HAS QUITE AN ECLECTIC MIX OF MEMBERS FROM SAM SMITH AND TOM HARDY, TO BARBARA WINDSOR AND PALOMA FAITH

UPSTAIRS

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What will make Devonshire Club different to the multitude of other members clubs in London? Well, the location for a start. I remember people telling me that Home House was in the wrong location as it was North of Oxford Street - now look at Mary-le-Bone! Devonshire Club will be super chic, as we have designed everything with elegant women in mind. It’s important, especially in the City, that women feel comfortable and are treated equally without being patronised. Naturally, we will be very business friendly, but we will not accept a sea of lap-tops - what I call “lap-toppery” will be banned. I am so excited about the new club we have a great team and we will deliver a truly outstanding product.

Do you ever find it tiring hosting and entertaining guests and customers? It is one of the greatest joys and pleasures in my life to be able to meet so many fascinating people and to be allowed into their worlds. I LOVE hosting and always try to put other people first. Of course it can be frustrating if I want to go home early (I mean 9pm!) and just as I’m about to leave someone walks in who I haven’t seen for ages and I have to stay with them for an hour or so - but it is worth it. The greatest host in London is Jeremy King, from the Wolseley Group. I admire him so much - his bonhomie is legendary. I have three other friends who are also great hosts: David Morgan-Hewitt at The Goring Hotel; Didier Garnier at Le Colombier, and Jason Phillips at Wiltons. We all love our job - so hosting is a real privilege. It is important that the front of house team receive recognition: chefs earn much of the limelight, but we need people to serve, and service must be seen as an art to be appreciated.

DEVONSHIRE CLUB WILL BE SUPER CHIC, AS WE HAVE DESIGNED EVERYTHING WITH ELEGANT WOMEN IN MIND

Where is your favourite place to vacation and do you actually switch off when you're away? My favourite place to switch off is in my garden. I am lucky to have a large garden in London which for the past 25 years I have tended organically. I encourage wildlife and many birds visit. Most recently, I saw a pair of jays, some wood peckers and a tiny wren; and every day the same robin comes to visit. Otherwise, give me a long stretch of beach and golden sand anywhere in the Indian Ocean. April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 69

In a world where more and more products are becoming mass produced, pre-programmed and impersonal, it's refreshing to be able to report about an airline (of all things) which is warm, friendly and treats its customers like individuals rather than a frequent flyer number. The airline is SriLankan and I can honestly say that my experience to date, of the nation's flag carrier, has been nothing less than positive, entirely reminiscent of visiting the charming country itself. A place of multiple experiences, sights, sounds, tastes and colours, both Sri Lanka and its kind natives, greet tourists visiting their island in such a genuine and generous fashion, that few holiday destinations in the Asia Pacific region can compete with either the quality of the welcome or value for money. The national airline echoes the same. Upon boarding,

Air Lanka was set up by the Sri Lankan government in 1979 following the demise of Air Ceylon in 1978. Initially Air Lanka operated two Boeing 707 jets leased from Singapore Airlines. The 80's saw the airline increase its number of destinations and add to its fleet, until 1992 when Air Lanka purchased its first Airbus A320 aircraft and served 26 destinations. In 1998 the airline was part-privatised to Emirates, when the Dubai-based airline and the Sri Lankan government signed a ten-year partnership, at the same time abandoning the Air Lanka brand and launching SriLankan. There are few national carriers which have not undergone a tempestuous period of operation, in line with their homeland's fortunes, and in its relatively short history SriLankan has been greatly affected by both environmental disasters and acts of

passengers are greeted by glowing stewardesses, keen to assist any way they can, elegantly-attired in embroidered peacock saris of bright turquoise, illustrating the country's culture and giving you a taste of Sri Lanka before you even take off. I have flown on many a premium carrier and paid an awful lot more, only to be greeted by sour-faced cabin crew who can't even be bothered to look at my boarding pass, let alone my seat number, when stepping onto a plane. Things couldn't be more different on SriLankan, and it’s for this reason I have chosen this airline over premium carriers flying the same route when travelling to Colombo on four different occasions in the past two years. Yes, SriLankan is that good, and I'm happy to have this opportunity to now review the airline in the appropriate forum, here in Boarding Pass.

terrorism. A SARS outbreak, the Indian Ocean earthquake of 2004, a protracted civil war, and a terrorist attack at Bandaranaike airport in Colombo (the airline's hub) which wrote off half of the airline's fleet, completely destroying four planes - all took their toll on SriLankan. In 2007 SriLankan’s CEO even had his work permit cancelled by the Sri Lankan government, for refusing to bump 35 passengers off an over-booked flight to make space for then President Rajapaksa and his staff. Consequently, Emirates sold its 43.63% stake in the airline - thus ending in 2010 the decade-long affiliation between the two airlines - and SriLankan is now wholly government owned and run. Whilst this may not have resulted in SriLankan growing as quickly as it inevitably would have had the airline still been in partnership with the Middle Eastern

70 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

airline powerhouse, SriLankan has taken delivery of some very swish new Airbus A330-300 jets, laden with a range of features which tastefully blend modern air travel with the warmth of its homeland. Although I have to say that even when travelling on an older plane, you don't feel like you're completely missing out on the best SrILankan inﬂight experience, because the cabin crew is so helpful, calm and - most importantly - they smile. My Colombo-Doha SrILankan business class experience began when I was dropped oﬀ at the Silk Route lounge at Bandaranaike Airport. Silk Route is a completely separate check-in facility - isolated from the main airport terminal where SriLankan's business class passengers can avail themselves of quiet, private check-in facilities, away from the hectic departures hall. A little assistance is rarely unwelcome when traversing the world's busiest airports,

and until arriving in Doha, the last time I touched my luggage was just before the bell-boy collected it from my Colombo hotel room to leave for Bandaranaike airport. Non SriLankan business class passengers can buy the Silk Route service for USD 50. It would have been worth every penny should I have had to pay (www.airport.lk/silk_route/silk_route.php). After being checked-in, I was escorted through the chaotic departures hall, personally fast-tracked through immigration and deposited in the Serendib Lounge. Whilst certainly not the flashiest I'd frequented, the staff literally couldn't do enough for me, and a rather good complimentary 20-minute holistic Ayurvedic neck and shoulder massage calmed me nicely in preparation for flying.

On board, SriLankan’s A330-300 aircraft feature reverse herringbone seats in a 1-2-1 configuration in business, with a total of 28 seats in 7 rows. Whilst not a fan of sitting at an angle to the window, the good thing about this layout is that every seat has direct aisle access, and you can’t really see the person seated next to you even if you’re seated in the center. Seats were fully flat beds with plenty of pillows, cushions and cubby holes for my odds and ends, and a glass of chilled French champagne served with warmed cashews set the tone for the super comfortable flight ahead, none of which I could fault, with even the cute, orange Crabtree & Evelyn amenity kit exceedingly usable. Dinner was tasty and moreish, my Sri Lankan style prawn curry served with all the trimmings, quite delicious, washed down with a freshly brewed Ceylon tea - selected from a comprehensive on-board range which included

everything from Earl Grey to Jasmine and Ginger Ceylon. The service throughout was second to none and this is where the airline really stands out. There are no robots on SriLankan, just personable stewardesses who waft up and down the aisles attending to the needs of passengers without a hint of disdain or boredom. Their cheerful disposition really is a flying revelation and reason alone to fly SriLankan. In my book, genuine on-board hospitality trumps pretty much every in-flight gimmick, hands down, except flying on Concorde. www.srilankan.com Nicholas Chrisostomou flew SriLankan from Colombo to Doha on 10 February 2016.

SKY BRIEF LASER ATTACKS ON AIRCRAFT In February 2016 Virgin Atlantic flight VS025, bound for New York, was forced to return to Heathrow airport after a laser was shone at its cockpit during take-off and the co-pilot suffered ill-effects. The flight was grounded overnight and the 252 passengers put up in hotels. This is just one of thousands of laser-related incidents happening in the world's skies every year. Aircraft are increasingly being attacked with lasers at an alarming rate - and with lasers of greater strength - putting numerous airliners, their crew and all the passengers on board these flights at huge risk. Almost 9,000 laser-related incidents, across the UK alone, were reported to the UK Civil Aviation Authority during the five years to June 2015, prompting repeated calls to the UK government to classify lasers as offensive weapons. This would give police more power to arrest people for possessing lasers, unless they are owned for good reason. BA IS THE UK'S TOP BRAND The UK's national flag carrier, British Airways, has topped the annual fight of the nation's top brands, to win the battle of British brands, for the third consecutive year. The airline retained the title of the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading consumer superbrand, while some of the country's most historic and well-known household names - including M&S, Heinz and Cadbury - dropped out

QATAR'S LONGEST FLIGHT Premium Gulf carrier, Qatar Airways, will

of the top of the elite grouping. Richard Branson's airline, Virgin Atlantic, was a new entry in the top twenty most popular big brands in the 2016 list. www.ba.com

Doha to Santiago is a distance of 8,950 miles, making a direct flight roughly 5 - 10 minutes shorter. Qatar Airways plans to use Boeing 777-200LR aircraft on the two new routes. www.qatarairways.com

ISTANBUL NEW AIRPORT The only city in the world to occupy two continents - straddling the Bosphorus strait between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea - is building a massive new aerodrome on the coast in the European side of Istanbul, 35 km outside Turkey's largest metropolis. When it is completed in 2028, Istanbul New Airport will be capable of handling 200 million passengers

NEW CONCOURSE D AT DXB The world's busiest airport just got bigger. At the end of February 2016, DXB opened Concourse D, boosting the capacity of Dubai International Airport to 90 million passengers per year. Part of a USD 1.2 billion investment to enhance the airport's capacity and services, Concourse D is linked to freshly-renovated Terminal 1 by an airport train, and has

annually. The first of the new airport's four stages, phase 1A, is scheduled for completion at the end of 2018 and will boast the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest terminal under one roof, with a floor area of 1 million m2 and the capacity to handle 90 million passengers each year. www.nordicarch.com/istanbul-new-airport

21 stands of which four can accommodate the double-decker Airbus A380 superjumbo. For passengers, the new concourse features wellbeing concepts Be Relax spa and SnoozeCube, plus five new airline lounges, a new Al Majlis lounge, two Dubai International Hotel lounges, a Marhaba VIP lounge and 175 retail shops. www.dubaiairports.ae

launch non-stop flights from its hub at Hamad International Airport in Doha direct to Auckland in New Zealand and Santiago in Chile, giving the airline the longest and second longest flights in the world. Auckland is approximately 9,030 miles from Doha, which would mean a flying time of around 18 hours and 30 minutes.

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 73

No Shoes Required With its clear blue waters and endless pristine beach, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi on Saadiyat Island is the ultimate retreat back to nature, seamlessly blending five-star eco-luxury with a laid-back ethos, as Ashlee Starratt discovered.

or the barefoot wanderer, Saadiyat Island is a world apart. As Abu Dhabi’s flagship development, its translation from Arabic means ‘happiness’ and it’s where those seeking refuge and relaxation in opulent surroundings come home to roost. Nestled on the outskirts of the city’s cluster of islands, 500 metres off the coast, it’s an hour’s drive from Dubai and twenty minutes from Abu Dhabi Airport making it one of the GCC’s more accessible weekend retreats. An oasis firmly rooted in nature and its preservation, its 27 km2 are home to critically endangered hawksbill turtles. Each year they follow the tides back to nesting grounds along its powdered sands. Far out past the crashing breakers, bottlenose dolphins roam the waters along their migratory routes and can be spotted among the waves by early risers keen for a sunrise beach walk. Coastal birds and rhim gazelles mark their habitat on Saadiyat, while exotic shells dot the water’s edge. Boasting distinct cultural, beach and marina districts, along with a 15,400 visitor centre, the island is a secluded

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haven for sun-soaked tourists and locals craving a breezy escape from the mile-a-minute pace of UAE’s big cities. My home for the weekend, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas, perches like a jewel along an unspoiled stretch of coastline. Its secluded environs are rich with foliage, yet the sea can’t help but show her face, offering up glittering glimpses of azure water on the approach to the hotel. Neighbouring the Saadiyat Island Golf Club and with 306 luxuriously appointed rooms, suites and villas, the resort is a testament to the philosophy of the Park Hyatt brand. Designed with the discerning traveller in mind, Park Hyatt is the hotel group’s premium offering when it comes to elite service, lavish décor and five-star culinary journeys. It’s just past noon when I arrive, and after a breezy check-in I’m whisked away in a club car to one of their cloistered garden view villas. The pace of life on the resort is one of refined beachy leisure. I drink in my surroundings on the short ride to my lodgings. There’s a couple taking swings at the tennis court, while another strolls

hand-in-hand in bathing suits and flip-flops headed in the direction of the Beach House – the resort’s waterfront restaurant and cocktail bar. Flooded with natural light, the décor of my villa sanctuary is freshly modern, dotted with splashes of colour in its furnishings, while dark wood accents anchor it firmly back to nature. The feng shui here is on-point, with all the energy, breeze and light flowing towards the outdoor terrace and its mosaic plunge-pool and loungers. Sliding glass doors open off both the living room and master bedroom, while oriental divider screens in the bedroom, master bathroom and lounge area offer privacy at a moment’s touch. Worth noting is how all rooms are designed with sustainability in mind. Conceptualized by New York architects Perkins Eastman and outfitted by Wilson Associates interior design, the open-plan layouts are fashioned to allow in as much natural light as possible and are positioned in the direction of the breeze, conserving energy and minimizing the need for continuous electricity or A/C.

With my suitcase dropped off I’m blissfully left alone in my element. Exhausted after a long week at work and an early morning flight I quickly change into my bikini (which I lived in for the next 48 hours), mosey my way into the villa’s kitchen and pop a bottle of bubbly. Minutes later I’m neck-deep in the private pool, unplugging from the world around me with a crumpled paperback novel balanced carefully in hand. Opting for a quiet night in before a big day of beaching, dinner is room service - a sumptuous butter chicken curry with piping hot naan bread and a fiery Indonesian nasi goreng with prawns and beef satay. Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi prides itself on its attention to wellness, and in addition to comfort food selections, also offers a heart-healthy menu with dozens of fresh, locally-sourced items to tease your palate. After dinner and a quick rinse in the marbled rain-shower followed by a long spell in the deep soaker tub (a G&T within reach), it’s lights out in the plush confines of the king-sized bed. Dawn breaks early and the tides wait for no one, so I’m up

with the sun and off to the Beach House for brekkie. Wandering through the early-morning grounds I pass the hotel’s two large infinity pools, whose poolside cabanas will be filled with bronzed sun-worshippers before the clock strikes noon. Though the resort seems vast, it’s really just a five-minute walk from the villa to the sandy beach. Palm trees stand sentinel along the length of the sprawling pool courtyard and every sightline arrows down to the blue coastal horizon. The Beach House is exactly as its name suggests and is a plush spot to catch the patio breeze coming off the ocean while enjoying light, fresh fare (the eggs Benedict with smoked salmon is a must). Or, as the sun goes down head up to their roof-deck, watch the moon rise over the waves and sip sundowners. It’s here where the shoes come off, since the distance from the boardwalk to the beach is mere steps from the restaurant. One of the highlights of Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi is its commitment to environmental conservation. The grassy sand adjacent to the boardwalk is off-limits to guests during hatching season, and turtle nests are cordoned off for protection. It’s also one of the area’s few five-star resorts to refrain from water-sports activities in deference to the dolphin population offshore. The hotel has an on-site marine biologist and guests are encouraged to report any sightings. Dolphin-watching excursions can be arranged through the concierge via an outside adventure operator. I spend the morning lounging on the beach, dipping my toes in the surf and remembering to slow down and breathe deep the fresh salt air.

Guests to Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi would be remiss to pass up a toe-curling treatment at its Atarmia Spa and mine’s booked for 1:00 pm on the dot. Housing the resort’s fitness facility and a private outdoor pool for spa guests, its cool corridors are lined with river-rock and hence the ambiance is like a secluded grotto. I’m treated to a luxe 60-minute European Deep-Cleanse Facial using Kerstin Florian products that leave my skin feeling plump, fresh and rehydrated. Sunset cocktails are in order back at Beach House, where the fiery ball of the setting sun is as transfixing as their Passion Sangrias. Dinner is served at the unabashedly exquisite Park Bar & Grill where you can sit outside under the night breeze, or indoors for a bit of open kitchen theatre. We dined on sumptuous lobster and crab cannelloni, roasted John

Dory with white beans, chorizo and garlic confit, and a filet of sheri with chargrilled king prawns. A strawberry vacherin and pineapple tarte tatin made for a sweet ending, with Aperol spritzers on the upstairs terrace the perfect nightcap. Packing for the airport the next day I searched in vain for my shoes, realizing I’d left them on the beach as a subconscious offering to the sand. My heels are roughened and my polish chipped from the powder-fine granules. My hair still carried the scent of the salty air. All were reminders of a weekend spent in paradise where time, truly, stands still. www.abudhabi.park.hyatt.com All images courtesy of Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 81

Alex Benasuli visited a new spa retreat in North India which has redefined the benchmark for luxury wellness

Since the 1960s, westerners have been flocking to India for spiritual growth and well-being. As the birthplace of both yoga and Ayurveda thousands of years ago, India could effectively be regarded as one of the originators of alternative remedies, that treat physical maladies in sync with emotional and spiritual considerations. Compared to the 1960s and 70s when accommodation offerings were largely basic and a little too hippy, contemporary India now offers wellness and luxury spa experiences on a par with the best in the world. What is more, when Ayurveda and yoga are combined with the influences of Hinduism and Buddhism, an Indian experience feels more authentic, sacred and personal, and therefore distinct to many global counterparts. Against this backdrop, there is a new addition to the Indian luxury spa market. Set in the cool, verdant and hilly north of India, Vana Malsi Estate has raised the bar for the spa junky travellers of the world, looking for an authentic experience in a natural setting, without compromising luxury and pampering. There is something about choosing India for a retreat, which always feels like returning to the spiritual mothership. Vana has made this experience even more special.

ana is Sanskrit for forest. The story goes that, Mr. Veer Singh, founder of Vana, had been contemplating for some time about what do with a large tract of forested family land on the outskirts of Dehradun, in the foothills of the Himalayas north of New Delhi. The trees spoke to him and Vana Malsi Estate was born. The Sal trees and semi tropical forests that surround Vana are just a part of what makes it a spiritual and nurturing destination. Until recently, Vana existed a little below travellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wellness retreat radar, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now well on the way to becoming the best of its kind in the world. One of the first guests I met at Vana had originally planned to stay for two weeks, but eventually extended his stay to a full month. He had given up smoking, drinking and sugar, and in the process lost more than fifteen kilos of excess body weight, all culminating in a significant, life-changing

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experience. In fact many guests extend their stays, and many of us are already planning our return visits, such is the allure of this sublime setting. Put simply, Vana has redefined the benchmark for luxury wellness and it is exciting to partake in an experience that feels distinctly unique. Upon arrival, guests are assigned a wellness consultant doctor and given a pair of white kurtas (Indian pyjamas). Although not mandatory, everyone wears the kurtas for the duration of their stay, with freshly laundered kurtas delivered daily to every room. During the colder months, scarves and soft woolen capes are distributed to help ward off the mild evening chill. There is something incredibly liberating about not having to think about what to wear each day, whereby all guests appear as equals, without the bling or labels that usually set them apart. Above all, the kurtas

are incredibly comfortable, and if Vana is your only destination in India you can also pack very light. The staff also wear variations of the kurta. The sight of the human form clad in white and shades of light earth tones, adds to the serenity and harmony that pervade every facet of this property. At its core, Vana is a place of physical and spiritual healing. At your initial one-to-one wellness consultation - after the standard questions about physical health, emotional wellbeing, sleep and nutrition are addressed - a bespoke program is compiled according to each personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual needs. There are two primary comprehensive healing approaches at Vana, and these are further complimented by an extensive offering of alternative treatments - some of which are more familiar to the average guest and some less

so. India and wellness are synonymous with Ayurveda. At Vana, Ayurvedic treatments and cuisine are at the heart of the resort experience. For the uninitiated, Ayurveda is a 5000-year old system of natural healing that originated in the Vedic culture of India. In Sanskrit, Ayur means life and Veda means science, and as the science of life, Ayurveda seeks to explain and heal the imbalances that occur during integration of body, mind and spirit. In Ayurveda, human beings are composed of three main energy types (doshas), and one of these doshas is usually dominant, be it Pitta (fire), Vata (air) or Kapha (earth). Ayurveda believes that most physical and emotional ailments can be traced to an imbalance of the doshas. Therefore, Ayurvedic medicine is about identifying which dosha is dominant, which are not in balance, and then prescribing massage, aromatherapy, herbs and nutritional suggestions, as well as meditation and

music, to rebalance and heal. It is an effective way to treat common ailments such as digestive issues, insomnia, anxiety, metabolism, migraines and much more. At the Ayurvedic center at Vana, men and women are treated on different floors. Male therapists attend to men and female to the women. Many of the herbs that are blended into the warmed oil, that are the signature of most Ayurveda massage treatments, come from the immediate environs. All the therapists that administered treatments to me hailed from Kerala, the southern Indian state that has the strongest Ayurvedic traditions in the country. One of my therapists was a fourth generation Ayurvedic practitioner. Their pride of work and dedication to the craft was evident and, suffice to say, I was in excellent hands. The other well-known wellness tradition that is promoted at Vana is Tibetan Medicine, otherwise known as Sowa-Rigpa. In fact, the Tibetan Healing Center at Vana is one of only a handful that exists outside Tibet. Its excellence, authenticity and expression of a culture in exile create the feeling of something exceptional happening. Tibetan medicine draws a lot from traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese remedies. Like Ayurveda, there are doshas, and similarities to Chinese medicine regard pulse, tongue and urine analyses which are used to diagnose physical and emotional imbalances. Acupuncture and massage compliment dietary and lifestyle suggestions as treatment protocol. However, Sowa-Rigpa also employs a distinctly Buddhist approach. The belief is that all illnesses ultimately stem from the three poisons: ignorance, attachment and aversion. Meditation and mindfulness are therefore important components of the Tibetan healing program at Vana. Several times a week, Dr. Sonam - the chief in-house Tibetan doctor - leads a group 45-minute compassion/meditation session, and for the more solitary among us, meditation is also available one-on-one. The massage on offer at the Tibetan healing center offers something quite different to the usual: during my treatment two therapists chanted mantras while applying oil and herbal poultices. At Vana, it is common for guests to subscribe to a combination of both Ayurvedic and Tibetan therapies, and since all programs are bespoke - specific to an individual's condition and concerns - no one program is identical to another. There is a whole yoga center in the grounds, with multiple studios offering complimentary morning and evening classes as well as individual instruction. The top-notch teachers are actually doctors of yoga, who have in-depth knowledge of not only poses and alignment, but also of the Vedic scriptures and spiritual texts. For those that want to take their spiritual experience even further, there are regular complementary group chanting sessions. I had sessions with a doctor of reflexology and the experience was sublime, somewhat akin to acupuncture in terms of relaxation and opening up energy channels without the need for needles. Aquatic based therapy is also on offer, namely 86

Ai Chi which is like Tai Chi in the water, as well as Watsu, which I can only describe as like being in the womb, prompting physical relaxation and tremendous emotional release. More conventionally, there is a fully equipped, state of the art gym, and personal trainers that provide personalised instruction. The nutritionist, head chef and chief groundskeeper are available to discuss all things food and herbal remedy related, and the diverse array of practitioners discuss between themselves guests’ programs. Everyone I personally interacted with was aware of my stay objectives, and would politely return to my second and third sessions with new suggestions based on further reflection and research. My initial wellness consultation and subsequent follow-ups and sessions with the various doctors and experts, were all typed-up, which allowed for a clear understanding of not only what their diagnoses were, but also what treatment plan was in store and why. Suggestions for re-entry to the “real world” were also provided in written form. While all of the above make Vana’s recent accolade of “Most Life-Changing Retreat” wholly deserving, awards will surely follow for its architecture, style and design. Straight out of Wallpaper or Architectural Digest, the buildings that make up the Vana campus do the impossible - they equally make a statement as well as blend into the natural setting. The palette of the interiors includes shades of white and cream, with carefully curated colour accents. Artwork, as well as wall and ceiling sculptural installations, capture the eye while calming the nervous system. Furnishings throughout the common areas are modern and incredibly comfortable. Each nook invites you to curl up with a book and blanket until your next treatment begins. Guest rooms are spacious and include a sitting area, bed area and large bathroom with oversized tub and separate walk-in shower. Guest rooms are spread out over three, low-rise buildings, and either look out onto the central garden courtyard - with an outdoor yoga sala at its focal point - or into the lush green forest with dappled sunlight and the sound of monkeys in the distance. The attention to detail at every level of the Vana experience undeniably sets the place apart. From the tailored programs to the comfort of the physical spaces and the hot water bottles placed in guests’ beds while they are at dinner, Vana creates the perfect environment to really address whatever physical and emotional issues you perhaps didn’t even realise you had. Time spent at Vana can be a well-deserved break from a hectic life or so much more. Vana may have been operating below the radar since it opened in 2014, but this is sure to change, soon. The word has gotten out: there is a new luxury retreat on the block and it really is a cut above the rest. www.vanaretreats.com 88

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Lucy Taylor visited the Copán ruins, Honduras' ancient Mayan marvel.

n the westernmost part of Honduras, not far from the Guatemalan border, nestle the ruins of Copán: a tumbledown treasure-trove of ancient Mayan buildings in various states of repair, dotted with silvery Ceiba trees.

This particular archeological site is relatively small, as they go, and nowhere near as epic as the soaring temples of Teotihuacan in Mexico, or as sprawling as the eerie jungle site of Tikal in neighbouring Guatemala; but more sculptural stone carvings have been discovered in Copán than any other pre-Colombian era city. More than a millennium ago, this small city - with its neat public plazas and richly decorated royal buildings - was one of the great centres of Mayan civilisation, especially revered for its sculptures and carvings. The city had an astronomical lean and made accurate calculations about celestial objects, particularly the positions of stars and planets, with records written in hieroglyphics. Its heyday lasted for sixteen generations of rulers - men with fantastic names that paid tribute to Mother Nature, such as Moon Jaguar, Great-Sun First Quetzal Macaw and Smoke Monkey. For reasons unknown - although numerous theories abound - the city was abandoned in the early 10th century when the priests departed and the city’s residents left with them, taking all of their worldly possessions. There is no record of a famine or a war, so the abandonment of such a thriving city is a mystery to this day. Gradually the local flora and fauna reclaimed the site, and it was not rediscovered until 1570 by the Spanish explorer, Diego García de Palacio. His reports back to Spain attracted some interest, yet since the site was so remote, it was not until the 19th century that international archaeologists turned their attentions to Copán. French explorer, Jean-Frédéric Waldeck, spent a month drawing the ruins in the early 19th century. There followed a number of sponsored excavation projects, when the forest around the ruins

was removed, and the Copán River was redirected to save the archaeological site and enable researchers to begin to study the ancient civilization. In 1980 the ruins were accorded UNESCO World Heritage status, and money was invested to protect and restore the dilapidated old temples. Today, there are many ongoing projects - which means you’ll come across structures in various states of restoration when you visit. But somehow this adds to the charm of this secluded spot. The park opens to visitors at 08:00 and it’s a good idea to arrive early to avoid the scorching midday heat. It’s an easy 1.5km walk from the centre of Copán Ruinas, but there are also buses, taxis and of course, tuk-tuks. For international visitors, entry costs around USD 15 per person, after payment of which you make your way from the entrance - through the trees - to the main plaza. Stepping out of the forest shade into the spacious forum, the first thing you notice is the frenetic jabbering of hundreds of scarlet macaws that throng the trees around the clearing’s edge. The site’s rangers actually feed the parrots that nest here, and consequently the birds are unperturbed by the flurry of people - happily swooping over the heads of visitors and chasing each other from tree to tree. The main plaza itself, surrounded by ghosts of temples held together by wandering tree-roots, is now grassed over and neatly mowed - but in its glory years, this vast forum would have been paved with white limestone. The carved stelae (upright slabs of stone inscribed with chronicles of Mayan rulers and their 92 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

“Its heyday lasted for sixteen generations of rulers - men with fantastic names that paid tribute to Mother Nature, such as Moon Jaguar, Great-Sun First Quetzal Macaw and Smoke Monkey” ancestors) are on show here - displaying staggeringly preserved images of ancient kings bordered by clear-cut hieroglyphics. The carvings and letters of these ancient Mayan columns, have been extremely helpful to archaeologists - particularly the inscriptions found on the famed hieroglyphic stairway: a 12-metre-high construction with 63 steps, built in the 8th century in celebration of the then ruler. It is covered with around 2,500 glyphs - making it the most extensive example of hieroglyphic writing in all of Mesoamerica. However, the stairway is currently part-covered in a huge tarpaulin to protect it from the elements, so what you can actually view is slightly limited, albeit impressive. This is part of a preservation project by the Honduran government in conjunction with the USA’s Getty Conservation Institute. Another key element of the site is the sepulturas, or tunnels. These were dug by archaeologists in the 1980s to enable the excavation of older temples hidden beneath the newer constructs, a practice often employed by the Mayans. Two tunnels were open when I visited. These showcased buried parts of older temples - but at an additional USD 15 per person, it’s debatable whether this brief underground experience is worth it. Also within the archaeological park is a museum (entry USD 7 per person) with a life-size reconstruction of the fabulous deep pink Rosalila Temple - a (now buried) shrine honouring the city’s first ruler, featuring amazing stucco images and bright colours. It also contains numerous beautifully restored stelae, stone tablets, statues and other artefacts - and you can even watch the restoration team working live on pieces.

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COPÁN RUINAS Just over three hours drive from San Pedro Sula and one kilometre northwest of Honduras’ most famous Mayan site, Copán Ruinas is a charming little town of cobbled streets and colourful Spanish colonial buildings adorned with red-tiled roofs, nestled amongst rolling hills in a fertile river valley. With a tight community of friendly townsfolk, some of whom speak English, it's worth staying overnight in Copán Ruinas when visiting the ruins, to absorb the local atmosphere and visit the multitude of restaurants, bars and markets catering to the visitors that frequent the area, not to mention the many places of interest close by. The streets are safe and it's easy to wander from one side of town to the other, past elderly men playing checkers in the street and kids kicking a football around in the main square. The town is full of quaint guest houses and delightful places to lodge, and so you won’t have any problem finding accommodation. Tuk-tuks are also plentiful and cheap for venturing further afield. Well worth a visit while in the area, is Macaw Mountain Bird Park & Nature Reserve - a short hop from Copán Ruinas by tuk-tuk - which cares for rescued and endangered species. Contained within a nine-acre conservation area, including a tropical forest of mahogany, indio desnudo, Spanish cedar and fig trees, elevated wooden trails and sprawling decks offer stunning views of the tropical bird santuary’s extraordinary grounds. The reserve also serves 100% pure Arabica estate coffee at its on-site café, under a canopy of old, central-American hardwood trees in a gorgeous river valley, to a backdrop of wild parakeets chattering away (www.macawmountain.org).

HOTEL MARINA COPÁN

Overlooking Copán Ruinas’ central plaza and positioned in the centre of the pretty Honduran town, Marina Copán was the first hotel to be established in the region during the 1940s, and was named in honour of Doña Marina Welchez, having been built on the site of her family home more than seventy years ago. Since then the hotel has played home to countless Mayan archaeologists and generations of visiting enthusiasts. Atmospheric corridors filled with characterful furniture, intimate courtyards and lush botanicals, give way to fifty spacious rooms and suites laid out around well-groomed gardens, splashing fountains, a beautiful inner courtyard and pretty swimming pool. Rooms feature natural wood ceilings, hand-carved furniture and warm, calming décor. The hotel's best accommodation is the 60m² Tower Suite, comprising a living room, separate bedroom, deluxe bathroom and gorgeous private terrace boasting spectacular views of the mountains south of Copán. On-site culinary options include Glifos Restaurant - renowned for its regional and international cuisine - Jaguar Venado Bar for poolside cocktails, and Café Welchez for coffees and lighter fare. www.hotelmarinacopan.com 96

TASTE &SI P REVIEW

NIHONBASHI COLOMBO

Food Atmosphere

recently visited a much lauded Japanese restaurant, where literally everyone who served me was anything but Japanese. Not one of the waiting staff who delivered food to the table was able to properly pronounce the name of the dish they so carefully carried from the kitchen - least of all advise what the ingredients were - and despite the hefty bill, I didn't feel that I had partaken in a premium dining experience at all. Some of these restaurants actually now seem to aim at a clientele for whom high prices are not a barrier. EUR 200 per head used to buy a lot more than one cocktail, dinner and half a bottle of wine. Yet whilst I don't mind an expensive meal, it is unacceptable to feel rushed while eating, commonplace in many high-end Japanese eateries nowadays. Such haste goes completely against the nation's ethos. So it was refreshing to enjoy a calm and leisurely dining experience at Nihonbashi in Colombo, cited by many as the city's best restaurant. These days, only a handful of restaurateurs can pull off an authentic Japanese experience properly, and I'm happy to say that Dharshan Munidasa is one them. His flagship restaurant is wholly deserving of the countless accolades which have been lavished upon it. Nihonbashi skillfully combines inventive Japanese cuisine,

DHARSHAN MUNIDASA

subliminal yet attentive service and a sense of dining occasion, in unpretentious, comfortable surroundings in the heart of the Sri Lankan capital. Born in Tokyo to a Sri Lankan father and Japanese mother, Munidasa spent much of his childhood in Japan, where his earliest cooking experiments came about after observing his mother and aunts in the kitchen. As a college student in the USA, Munidasa found the cafeteria food unpalatable, and since he despised commercial mass produced food, began recreating his favourite foods from his homelands. When he moved out of the dorms and started living in an apartment, “I realised that if I didn’t cook right, I would die of starvation”, he said, "it was hunger that drove me to cooking". By his senior year, every Friday night Munidasa's apartment became a makeshift restaurant for Japanese students looking for good food, with the budding chef only accepting raw ingredients as payment. The menu consisted of home-style food made from family recipes, and as Munidasa’s cooking attracted more and more fellow students, he also mastered some of the skills of a 100 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

A T STE restaurateur. Weekly menus were planned, grocery lists prepared in advance and dishes were gradually developed and improved. Six months before he graduated with a double degree in computer engineering and international relations, Munidasa returned to Sri Lanka when his father passed away. It was then that his heritage and passion for Japanese cuisine motivated him to open Nihonbashi (meaning “Japan bridge”) in 1995, his ﬁrst restaurant. In the twenty one years since then, Munidasa has striven to grow Nihonbashi into one of the best Japanese restaurants in the region, oﬀering a more artisanal style of cuisine, not dissimilar to Tokyo’s upscale, cultured eateries. The simplicity of Nihonbashi’s dishes highlight the quality of the ingredients used, and

TEN SABI TEMAKI

Munidasa is very conscious of the composition and makings of every single dish on the menu, often visiting Negombo Fish Market on the west coast of the island, to select the best of Sri Lanka’s export quality tuna before it is shipped to Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. Very much a hands-on restaurateur, Munidasa’s meticulous attention to detail in all areas of the business, has ensured that Nihonbashi has remained a landmark restaurant at the top of its game. Not only is his first restaurant still the best in the city more than two decades after it first opened, but it has also made Munidasa one of Asia's most well-known chefs, plus the only one in the continent with two restaurants on Asia's Top 50 list. One might expect from an award-winning restaurant of such pedigree, that the arrival process would be elaborate and overwhelming. This is not the case at Nihonbashi, arriving at which is a calming and gentle experience – the restaurant following a Zen, ivory-white aesthetic - to the backdrop of trickling water and lots of bamboo. Seating is either in the ground floor restaurant or upstairs in one of eight private dining rooms which range in size from 2 - 22

& SI P

covers, the largest being Samurai, an atmospheric, bijou banquet room. There is also a delightful yakitori rock garden. Our domain for the evening was the intimate Wine Room, styled like a cellar, abounding with bottles and glassware, and equipped with hi-tech speakers to which we could Bluetooth our own music. Everything we devoured at Nihonbashi was presented with considerable attention to detail, well executed, carefully explained and downright delicious to eat. Standout were an ingenious Karapincha curry leaf tempura fusion dish, Nasu Dengaku (aubergine cooked with miso paste and ﬁlled with apple) which was a veritable food revelation, and a white mullet, olive oil and

soy sashimi dish which was so good we ordered it twice. For me this was the superstar dish of the night, even eclipsing a superb Waygu beef dish which came a close second, the meat so succulent it virtually melted in my mouth. The meal ended with miso soup prepared in the traditional fashion, using dashi freshly made daily. A memorable Japanese meal is so much more than good food and a silly bill at the end of the proceedings, yet so many restaurants around the world seem to have forgotten this, especially the detail. This is far from the case at Nihonbashi, where details are noticeable everywhere and the overall experience vastly enjoyable from start to ﬁnish. We left the restaurant feeling contented, happy and raving about our experience. That the chef in the kitchen and the waiter who served us had both been working at the restaurant since it opened twenty one years ago, is testament to the skilled management of its founder and driving force. That Nihonbashi was also their ﬁrst job says everything about Munidasa's people skills and genuine warmth, just a few of the qualities evident in every dish which comes out of the kitchen.

N SASHIMI

NIHONBASHI Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Dharshan Munidasa Address: 11 Galle Face Terrace, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka Telephone: +94 112 323 847 Email: info@nihonbashi.lk Website: www.nihonbashi.lk Cuisine: Japanese Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30 every day Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 every day Reservations: Not essential Wheelchair access: Yes

Lunch price: No carb bento box (Rs 2,400). Dinner price: N Sashimi (Rs 618), Olive Oil & Soy Sashimi (Rs 1,673), Shake Aburi (Rs 837), Karapincha Tempura (Rs 502), Maguro Mentai Maki (Rs 1,673), Ten Sabi Temaki (Rs 592), Yuzu Ice Cream (Rs 490). Ideal meal: Eight-course Nihonbashi set menu (Rs 17,000). All prices quoted are Nett. Children: High chairs available. No kids menu Credit cards: All major Parking: Close-by. No valet Reviewed by: Nicholas Chrisostomou on 6 February 2016 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

Bernardi brothers, Gabriel and Marcello, hail from Australia, with their distinctly Italian roots, good looks and shared passion for hearty food and warm hospitality. Both have brought to London's restaurant scene, extensive experience from key roles as part of the Cubitt House Group. Gabriel was one of the group's original co-founders and was responsible for the set-up and interior design of The Thomas Cubitt, The Pantechnicon Rooms and The Orange in Belgravia, whilst Marcello was involved with producing the marketing and F&B concepts for these three highly-successful venues. In creating Bernardi's - the brothers' first family-owned restaurant in London, located on the corner of Seymour Place in what has become known as Portman Village - they drew inspiration from Melbourne’s sprightly Italian restaurants of the 1990s, to create their 120-cover all day dining eatery, occupying two floors of a classic, beautifully restored Victorian building. The open-plan street level 80-seat dining room of muted greys, blacks and accented colours, makes extensive use of natural woods, stone and textiles that reference a vintage Italian style, to successfully create an elegant, understated and warm environment, presided over at the far end by a well designed marble bar, which devotes an entire page of its list to Italian apéritifs. Traditionally-styled booths and banquette seating break up the majestic room, lending to it a casual and friendly feel which has been married with a simple and seasonal, contemporary Italian menu, produced by executive chef, Sabrina Gidda, a two-time Roux Scholarship finalist. Service is swift, polite and courteous, thanks to a bevvy of energetic young waiting staff - keen to please - attired in funky outfits. Gidda’s pan-Italian dishes which leave her kitchen are well-constructed, tasty and satisfying, and pretty good value for this part of London. Bernardi's new weekend brunch menu features bottomless Prosecco and Bloody Marys at GBP 16 per head, and the Roast Porchetta, Butternut Squash & Cime di rapa (GBP 17.50), served on Sundays only, is supremely moorish. During the week, the restaurant's set lunch menu (two courses GBP 18 or three courses for GBP 22), served from midday until 3pm, provides both the ideal venue for local business execs and a relaxed re-fuelling stop for weary shoppers. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.bernardis.co.uk 102

TASTE &SI P

NEWCOMER BERNARDI’S LONDON

TASTE &SI P INTERVIEW

DHARSHAN MUNIDASA OWNER & EXECUTIVE CHEF NIHONBASHI CELEBRITY CHEF, RESTAURATEUR AND TV PERSONALITY, DHARSHAN MUNIDASA, TALKED TO NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ABOUT HOW HIS CAREER HAS DEVELOPED FROM COOKING FOOD FOR FELLOW STUDENTS AT COLLEGE, TO MANAGING FOUR OF SRI LANKA'S TOP RESTAURANTS, INCLUDING TWO WHICH FEATURE ON THE 2016 LIST OF ASIA'S 50 BEST.

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 105

WAS THERE MUCH COOKING IN THE MUNIDASA HOUSEHOLD WHEN YOU WERE A CHILD? Yes, Mom cooked Japanese food every weekend and the whole house was filled with the aromas of spices as curries were prepared. Fruits from the garden were the best dessert, and my brother and I would hand pick slightly bitten-off mangoes that dangled from small branches, 40ft from the ground. WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR PASSION FOR COOKING? I guess I was a hungry child and began to cook whenever hunger struck. Cooking became a necessity when I was in the US, that led to an obsession to pickle the best Otsukemono or grill the perfect sanma or steak. I would carry Sri Lankan sea salt by hand when travelling to America to make Otsukemono (pickles). HOW DID YOU BECOME SO ACCOMPLISHED IN THE KITCHEN? At first, I had to be organised in my own kitchen during my time as a university student. This was the beginning and bit by bit over the following years, the knack for cooking and ability to think swiftly with ingredients set in. Not having formal training allowed me to think outside the box and being half Japanese allowed me to appreciate raw ingredients, thus emphasising ingredient knowledge. It was these steps that made me know my way around a kitchen, and my hunger to eat well gave me the biggest motivation. PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR FIRST RESTAURANT. Nihonbashi opened in 1995 as a small Japanese restaurant. About a year later, I wanted to break away from the “home-style” cuisine that we served, to offer a more artisanal Japanese cuisine similar to the sophisticated restaurants of Tokyo. But with limited access to ingredients due to very high import duties, it was almost impossible to do so. It was at this point that I looked locally for alternative solutions. I searched for ingredients and found good fish and sea food originally intended for export, tuna destined for Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan, and lagoon crabs headed to Singapore. Vegetables were grown to my specifications and the majority of the produce found locally started to make Nihonbashi unique. Today, small efforts like not using frozen chicken for yakitori has probably made ours stand out, even by

“Not having formal training allowed me to think outside the box and being half Japanese allowed me to appreciate raw ingredients.” April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 107

Tokyo standards. Our ability to present Japanese cuisine in English (not just writing the menu, but explaining in depth) gave us opportunities to educate our patrons about treasured Japanese cooking philosophies. Today, the look and feel of the restaurant and its design elements are unique, and having used locally sourced raw materials makes us a distinctive washoku-ya. DO YOU THINK SRI LANKAN AND JAPANESE CUISINES COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER, AND IF SO, IN WHAT WAY? As cuisines, no, they do not. However, Japanese cooking techniques are complementary at my Sri Lankan restaurant “Kaema Sutra”, where we use sophisticated Japanese knives to skilfully prepare fish for curries, removing blood lines and bones. WHO OR WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST GASTRONOMIC INFLUENCE? My biggest gastronomic influence is a place - the Tsukiji Fish Market. For more than two decades, Tsukiji has taught me much about all kinds of fish, and the changing seasons allow you to see the varied produce available year-round. The small kitchen utensil shops are also a treasure trove of learning what equipment is used for what purpose - where else would you find 20 different gauges and lengths of steel skewer?!

respect as tuna in a Japanese kitchen has made the crab special in Sri Lanka again. HOW DID THE PARTNERSHIP WITH CRICKETING LEGENDS MAHELA JAYAWARDENE AND KUMAR SANGAKKARA COME ABOUT? Kumar and Mahela are regulars at Nihonbashi and have been kind enough to appear on my TV show. It was from this friendship that I asked them if they would like to join me and be a part of Ministry of Crab. TELL US ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERE AND CUSTOMERS AT MINISTRY OF CRAB. The styling at Ministry of Crab includes the Dutch colours (the very same colour as a cooked crab), bright Heliconia ﬂowers that look like crab claws, big ministerial tables and a no-nonsense kitchen in full view of diners. The sounds and aromas of dishes being prepared swirl through the dining hall of this old Dutch hospital built in the 1700s. Over the last four years we have gained popularity out of Sri Lanka, and so today many of our patrons make reservations months in advance to be sure to experience Ministry of Crab when they are in Colombo.

“Giving lagoon crabs the same respect as tuna in a Japanese kitchen has made them special in Sri Lanka again.”

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL TO COOK AT HOME? Chicken curry, with only three spices and salt. You could make this dish to match wines from both ends of the spectrum - our spices are extremely complex!

WHAT INSPIRES YOU TO CREATE A NEW DISH FOR ONE OF YOUR RESTAURANTS? Inspiration to create new dishes for my restaurants stems from a newly found source of produce: having found ocean farmed barramundi has resulted in an amazing spicy dish at Kaema Sutra, and clams became part of the menu at Ministry of Crab once we had found the perfect supplier. So I would say that creativity is ingredients inspired - as we try to keep food miles low and avoid importing. WHAT MAKES A SRI LANKAN LAGOON CRAB SUCH A SPECIAL CRUSTACEAN FOR A CHEF? Sri Lankan lagoon crab has become revered in Singapore. It was this need to re-own that which is intrinsically ours that made this variety of crab special to me. It is not a new discovery in Sri Lanka, it has always been here: what matters is whether or not the chef treats the crab respectfully. Many used frozen versions to oﬀset costs, making crab dishes ordinary. Giving them the same 108

HOW DO YOU MANAGE FOUR RESTAURANTS? I do it by spending time in each kitchen each day, having a big team, and using smart phones to help source non-food requirements etc. My time is much better managed now, but still not perfect.

WHAT IS NIHONBASHI'S SIGNATURE DISH? Nihonbashi has a few signature dishes. Ten Sabi Temaki - a tempura prawn hand roll that plays with both warm and cold temperatures. Curry leaf tempura - an amazing dish using a leaf that is not commonly eaten in Sri Lankan cuisine, rather only used for aromatic purposes. Olive oil and soy sashimi - one of my creations for The Tuna & The Crab in Galle - that is now a signature dish at Nihonbashi. Timing is critical for this dish to work. MINISTRY OF CRAB AND NIHONBASHI BOTH FEATURE, AGAIN, IN THE LIST OF ASIA'S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY IS THE RECIPE FOR THESE SUCCESSES? Being unique, out of the box and relevant, and delivering an eating experience that diners remember. NAME ONE CULINARY MILESTONE YOU ASPIRE TO. To be the ﬁrst Michelin starred restaurant not to use a freezer or frozen produce. www.nihonbashi.lk

TASTE &SI P THE FOOD

OLIVE OIL & SOY SAUCE SASHIMI DHARSHAN MUNIDASA, EXECUTIVE CHEF OF COLOMBO’S AWARD WINNING JAPANESE RESTAURANT, NIHONBASHI, SHARED WITH THE CULTURED TRAVELLER THIS UNCOMPLICATED RECIPE THAT WILL UNDOUBTEDLY IMPRESS AT ANY DINNER PARTY GATHERING.

110

INGREDIENTS Sea bream of your choice Soya sauce Olive oil Chopped garlic

METHOD Slice your choice of sea bream into thin, evenly sized strips and position on a serving plate. Heat the olive oil in a small pan, add a teaspoon of finely chopped garlic and fry until golden brown. Pour the soya sauce over the slices of plated fish. Then pour the piping-hot olive oil and garlic combination over the fish. It will begin to crackle as the oil meets the soya sauce, creating a warm and cold texture, while the garlic offers a subtle crunchiness that makes a interesting alternative to wasabi.

BOB SINCLAR

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music& NIGHT LIFE NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU INTERVIEWED GRAMMY-NOMINATED FRENCH RECORD PRODUCER, INTERNATIONAL HOUSE MUSIC DJ AND CREATOR OF COUNTLESS WORLDWIDE DANCE HITS BOB SINCLAR, AS HE PREPARES FOR HIS SECOND SUMMER AS RESIDENT DJ AT ICONIC PACHA NIGHTCLUB IN IBIZA

Where and when was the first time you DJ’d?

Of course, as a beginner, nobody wanted me to play as a DJ in a regular club, so I organized my own parties. I was passionate and deeply influenced by music of black origin - from hip-hop to soul and ragga to acid jazz - but few people in the early 90s considered including these musical styles in their DJ sets. I named my first party “Funk You”, and on that very same day I discovered that playing in front of a crowd was the most difficult thing ever.

Describe your sound and what makes it unique.

It’s very hard to create an up-tempo track with feelings, emotions and a good theme, yet this is what I strive to achieve. I am always on the lookout for happy vibes and intense rhythms.

Whose music has influenced you most?

Discovering hip-hop was a revelation for me. I was fascinated by the tension in the beats. It took me a while to discover how hip-hop artists created their music by recycling sounds.

In what way has your sound changed during the course of your career?

I am not a classic musician and never took any formal lessons. I am something of a product of the hip-hop generation and started making beats and music by recycling sounds and using sampling techniques. My goal was to create big room beats and play them to crowds. Back then I couldn’t even imagine that one day my music would get radio airplay. It’s been a 20-year learning curve - working with some amazing musicians and singers - that has guided me to producing good songs. Over the years my beats and sounds have developed, but the way I produce has remained the same: I build ideas with sounds and music, and supply my tracks to clubs to play.

Vinyl or digital - which gives you most pleasure?

I use both in diﬀerent ways. Vinyl is a source of inspiration and digital is how I develop my sound. Technology nowadays is so advanced, and talented young artists are producing amazing processed music. I still get excited about ﬁnding new ways to update my musical voice.

How big is your record collection and where do you keep it? After 20 years of collecting, I have 35,000 records in my studio and I listen to them over and over again, just to make sure that I haven’t missed something important. I love the nostalgia in music.

How did it feel in 2005 when Love Generation hit the top of the worldwide charts? No one can predict that kind of hit. The production of the track was a combination of mistakes, lucky accidents and timely meetings in New York. When you create a song which combines your heart and vision, and it

touches people and tops the charts around the world, it brings an amazing sensation of happiness. You feel blessed and rewarded for the work and passion you put into that song. Love Generation is a musical masterpiece which only happens once in an artist’s career, and I still feel the same happiness when I play it. I generally play it at the end of a DJ set, and when it comes on the crowds still go wild, wherever in the world I am playing.

Your thoughts about Electronic Dance Music.

I feel that I have tolerated EDM for the past ﬁve years. Now it’s over, it is time for people to enjoy real house music again.

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 117

the new flagship boutique 504 R. A. De Mel Mawatha | 2nd floor Colombo 3 | Sri Lanka +94 (0)11 208 17 84 www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lk

www.lateliertouche.com

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info@lateliertouche.com

Love Generation is a musical masterpiece which only happens once in an artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s career, and I still feel the same happiness when I play it.

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 119

Is there anything you miss from the early days of your DJ’ing career?

I had an amazing time throughout my career but I don’t really miss anything. I love what’s happening now: the young generation loves music, more now than ever before.

Which night club or venue, anywhere in the world, has the best sound system?

Zouk in Singapore has the best sound system in the world. But Pacha in Ibiza has the best of everything you expect in a club, and feels like home to me.

Would you say you’re more of a traditionalist in your sound and the technology you use to DJ, or are you constantly evolving?

As a DJ, I feel that too much technology can kill the vibe of a night, and so I prefer to stay focused on mixing the diﬀerent tracks I play and combining their energies.

What are the most important ingredients needed to make a hit record?

Emotion in the harmonies, a strong musical hook, and a catchy vocal melody with the right theme in the lyrics. Making a hit is a long journey that needs research, dedication, and some trial and error, in order to achieve the exact sound you want for your track.

What’s your favourite holiday destination to relax and recharge?

I don’t really go on holidays. I live in Los Angeles which is the perfect place for relaxation. I love the energy of the city and it encourages me to look after myself, play sport, be ﬁt and eat well.

You are constantly travelling around the world DJ’ing. What are your travel essentials? Since I generally only travel for 3 or 4 days at a time, I can pack light. Black t-shirts and my laptop are my essentials. I simply could not survive without my laptop.

How do you spend your time on a long-haul flight?

I try to sleep as much as possible, to rest after a busy night before and avoid jetlag. Sometimes I work on my laptop, whether on a new mix or other production ideas.

Which is your favourite city hotel in the world and why? My favourite city is New York. I love the energy of 120

I have 35,000 records in my studio and I listen to them over and over again, just to make sure that I haven’t missed something important.

the place and how the city introduces me to so many talented artists from diﬀerent backgrounds. The Gansevoort, located in the meat packing district, is my favourite hotel in New York.

Which personal characteristics do you believe one must possess in order to attain this high level of DJ’ing? To be a good DJ, you need to practice a lot and possess a large musical culture. And you need to be able to play anywhere, for all types of people. This will enable you to play in the most important clubs. A DJ is here to entertain people, not to look at himself in the mirror. I love sharing my musical energy with a crowd.

You’ve been spotted using a Louis Vuitton Takashi Murakami monogram camouflage carry-on. Are you a fan of any other designers?

I collect contemporary art, I love fashion and enjoy shopping for beautiful items during my trips around the world. Louis Vuitton is a luggage classic and Murakami an amazing artist so they are the perfect combination for a collaboration.

What has been your most memorable career highlight to date?

Every year without fail, since the beginning of my career, I have enjoyed surprises and highlights. When I ﬁrst started out, I did not consider the possibility of making a living based on my passion for music - and yet here I am today, still giving interviews, DJ’ing and touring the globe. I have made many hits and now, for the second year, I am the resident DJ at Pacha, Ibiza. What can I say? I feel blessed everyday.

Is there anywhere in the world you would like to DJ where you haven’t yet?

I have never played in Africa, so it would be amazing to play there one day, perhaps in Nigeria where Fela Kuti and King Sunny Ade are from. I am a big fan of both these artists and I love African beats.

Tell us about a future project which really excites you?

I have a new single coming out on Spinnin’ Records on 18th April 2016, and I start my summer residency Paris by Night at Pacha, Ibiza on 21st May 2016. Come see and hear me playing house music. www.bobsinclar.com

For Him

Spring is in the air and calls for a dash of colour and all things bright. From pretty pastels to electric blues, spruce up your spring/summer wardrobe with fabulous pieces – from easy on the wallet to key investment classics. It is also a time to rejuvenate your skin and senses with silky products and fabrics. Whether you are planning a city break or partying in the sun, this wish list will ensure that you look your stylish best and feel lusciously primed for your next cultured adventure! Farheen Allsopp, Fashion Expert

ANDERSON’S WOVEN BELT

This Anderson’s woven belt is finished with a high-grade, blue leather trim, and would look great with dark or light trousers or shorts. Ditch black and brown this spring and go for a splash of azure blue! EUR 90 WWW.MRPORTER.COM

SAINT LAURENT HAWAIIAN SHIRT Straight off Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2016 runway show, this slim cut, lightweight printed shirt with raw edges, is sure to put the wearer in a chirpy spring mood. EUR 550 WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM

BERLUTI DEUX JOURS BRIEFCASE This beautiful two-toned midnight blue leather bag - with top sporting handles and an adjustable shoulder strap - is great for carrying laptops, files and personal effects, and a colourful accessory to a funky guy’s on the go ensemble. EUR 2,550 WWW.MRPORTER.COM

ITALIA INDEPENDENT SUNGLASSES The cool-blue aesthetic of these shades designed by Lapo Elkann, is achieved using a complex laser process that leaves chromatic streaks in the frames. Tinted blue lenses complete the slick look cool factor. Model I-PLASTIK 0920. EUR 180 WWW.ITALIAINDEPENDENT.COM

GALET LOAFERS These Steve McQueen-inspired classic loafers in cherry red, made from the finest leather by playful French luxury brand Galet, are a shoe collection staple for the modern man and ideal for stylish weekend wear. EUR 250 WWW.GALET.COM

FAUST’S TRAVEL KIT This soft leather case contains two sets of recovery packs, a silk eye mask, 3M earplugs and revitalising face spray. The awake and asleep potions are made with concentrated natural vitamins and minerals, to revitalise and freshen after a long-haul flight, or calm and replenish after a wild encounter. GBP 42 WWW.FAUSTSPOTIONS.COM

122 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

For Her JOHANNA ORTIZ SKIRT Unleash your inner Latina with this gorgeous ruffled peplum skirt, made with silk faille by Colombian designer, Johanna Ortiz. The detachable red grosgrain bow adds a sophisticated and feminine look while the thigh-high slit adds a sexy touch. Team with a dressy blouse or a plain white tee for a look of understated yet memorable glamour. GBP 950 WWW.NETAPORTER.COM

NARS MULTI STICK This versatile stick comes in an array of colours - from sheer pinks to bold bronzes - and can be used on cheeks, eyes, brow bones or lips. Chic and practical, this product is a beauty cult favourite. EUR 38 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

DIPTYQUE SATIN OIL This light, dry oil is an absolute summer essential. Evoking scents reminiscent of jasmine, ylang-ylang and saffron, spray it on for skin that is satin-soft to the touch, and on hair to repair, nourish and add shine. USD 60 WWW.DIPTYQUEPARIS.COM

AQUAZZURA COLORADO SHOES These vibrant, tribal, beaded and tasselled Aztec-inspired suede sandals tick every fashion box, plus are comfortable and stylish to boot, a rare combination which makes them wearable throughout the day and evening. EUR 650 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

HARBOUR STRAW HAT Purchase this wider-brimmed take on a traditional Panama - in ivory straw and black grosgrain trimming - and instantly elevate the sophistication and elegance of any outfit. Perfect for both the city and sunny holidays. EUR 139 WWW.MYTHERESA.COM

PAULA MENDOZA BLAU RING This 24k gold plated ring by Colombian designer Paula Mendoza will brighten any look, complement a jeans and white shirt ensemble for day, and tantalise when worn with a LBD at night. USD 250 WWW.MODAOPERANDI.COM

B Barefoot www.barefootceylon.com Bernardi’s www.bernardis.co.uk Blue Kite www.bluekitekalpitiya.com Bob Sinclar www.bobsinclar.com Brighton Festival www.brightonfestival.org British Airways www.ba.com

C Café Français www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com

Dubai Airports www.dubaiairports.ae

E El Rinconcillo www.elrinconcillo.es

F Faena www.faena.com Frieze New York www.friezenewyork.com

G Galle Face Hotel www.gallefacehotel.com

Cannes International Film Festival www.festival-cannes.com

Hay Festival www.hayfestival.com/wales

Cappadox www.cappadox.com

Hotel Marina Copán www.hotelmarinacopan.com

Coachella www.coachella.com

Hoxton Hotel, Holborn www.thehoxton.com/london/holborn

COCO-MAT Hotel Athens www.cocomatathens.com

Corral Del Ray www.corraldelrey.com

Kaema Sutra www.kaemasutra.com

Das Stue Hotel www.das-stue.com/en

L'atelier Touché www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lk

Delaire Graff www.delaire.co.za

Laksala www.laksala.gov.lk

124 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

Lizard Island www.lizardisland.com.au

Silk www.sugarcolombo.com/club-silk/

Snowbombing www.snowbombing.com

Macaw Maountain www.macawmountain.org

SriLankan www.srilankan.com

Minstry Of Crab www.ministryofcrab.com

41 Sugar www.sugarcolombo.com/41sugar/

Sugar Bistro & Wine Bar www.sugarcolombo.com/sugar-bistro-wine-bar/

Nihonbashi www.nihonbashi.lk

The 1864 www.gallefacehotel.com/the-1864.php

Odel www.odel.lk/odel-stores

The Chedi Club www.ghmhotels.com/en/tanah-gajah/

On14 www.ozohotels.com/colombo-srilanka

The Siam www.thesiamhotel.com

The St. Regis Langkawi www.stregis.com/langkawi

Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas www.abudhabi.park.hyatt.com

Thrissur Pooram Elephant Festival www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

Traveller's Bar www.gallefacehotel.com/travellers-bar.php

Qatar Airways www.qatarairways.com

Trujillo National Cheese Festival www.feriadelquesotrujillo.es

Royal Mansour www.royalmansour.com

Vana Malsi Estate www.vanaretreats.com

S San Clemente Palace Kempinksi www.kempinski.com/en/venice/san-clemente-palace-kempinski