The Cultured Traveller, June-July 2016 Issue 11

ISSUE 11 JUNE/JULY 2016

INSIDE THE HERMIT KINGDOM OF

NORTH KOREA

MANSU HILL GRAND MONUMENT, PYONGYANG

GLASGOW • MAÇAKIZI • TAJ MAHAL • ATHENS • MATADOR ROOM SONJA PARK • CHAPTER ONE • LYDIA FORTE • ROBERT TATEOSSIAN

20 YEARS OF A WARMER WELCOME

IN THE HEART OF THE CITY Since 1996, Apex Hotels has been providing a warmer welcome to discerning guests.

Contemporary design and innovative technology are combined to reflect Apex’s independent, unique style.

For more info or to book: apexhotels.co.uk T: 0800 049 8000 LONDON | EDINBURGH | DUNDEE | GLASGOW | BATH

CONTENTS

HIGHLIGHTS

39 GLORIOUS GLASGOW

The transformation of Glasgow into European City of Culture has been dramatic.

Niall Palmer spends a week discovering Scotland's pulsating biggest city, which has reinvented itself as a cultural powerhouse of music, creative arts, theatre, design and gastronomy.

114 AMERICA’S TOP CHEF

Alex Benasuli interviewed fast-rising Miami-based chef de cuisine of celebrated Matador Room, Jeremy Ford, fresh from his crowning as the winner of American television series, Top Chef.

80 BODRUM GLITZ

Popular amongst the international jet set and Istanbul’s most beautiful, and renowned for its happening waterfront parties and glamorous beach club, Dawn Gibson finds out why exotic Aegean resort of Maçakızı is still glittering after almost 40 sultry Turkish summers.

126 KING OF CUFFLINKS

Former city banker, Robert Tateossian, speaks with Kalia Michaelides about making the leap to the world of high-end retail and creating an international luxury fashion brand.

106 CHAPTER & VERSE

Michelin-starred Chapter One has been serving exceptional contemporary Irish cuisine in Dublin for more than twenty years.

Gordon Hickey finds out why it's repeatedly name-checked as one of the country’s best restaurants.

A WEEKEND 36 WIN AT LE GRAY

GLASGOW UNIVERSITY

Located in the downtown cosmopolitan epicentre of the Lebanese capital, winning a weekend at upscale boutique hotel, Le Gray, is your gateway to discovering the intense charms and diverse culture of vibrant Beirut.

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08 EDITOR’S LETTER

58 SUITE ENVY

“Live or electronic tour guide?” is a question our Editor-In-Chief, Nicholas Chrisostomou, is often asked. Does one pay for a pre-recorded escort pay, plug-in, switch-on, walk, listen and see - or spend a bit more on a professional individual to show you around a location they’re passionate about and personally impart their knowledge one-on-one?

The penthouse suite of former royal palace, King George hotel in Athens, covers the entire ninth floor and boasts its own swimming pool, two bedrooms, private lift, breathtaking views of the Acropolis and enough entertaining space for 70 people.

Nicholas Chrisostomou lives like a lord in the charismatic Greek capital.

10 NEWSFLASH

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06 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

68 THE CULTURED CHAT

Our summary of seasonal happenings, global events and notable festivals taking place around the world in June and July 2016, including the dragon boat festival in China, Sónar in Barcelona, the regatta of St. Raniere in Pisa, Inti Raymi in Peru, Gay Pride in New York and the bizarre wife-carrying championships in Finland.

At just 28, Lydia Forte is an up-and-coming hospitality force to be reckoned with. The daughter of hotel baron Sir Rocco Forte, the young businesswoman has already taken charge of bar and restaurant development at Rocco Forte Hotels.

Ashlee Starratt talks to the entrepreneurial ingénue about cuisine, career and legacy.

14 REST YOUR HEAD

76 BOARDING PASS

Hotels featured in this issue include the new Japanese Aman resort on Honshu Island, boutique art deco hotel Luciano K in Santiago de Chile, 18th-century Le Mas Candille in the enchanting Provence village of Mougins, and New York’s Library Hotel, bursting at the seams with thousands of books.

The rise of private jet travel has officially surpassed the cushioned crust of the mega-wealthy upper classes, and an increasing number of aviation companies are making their services much more accessible to mortals. Nicholas Chrisostomou investigates how astute travellers in

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the know can fly on a private aircraft for the cost of an economy ticket.

88 SPOTLIGHT The ivory marble mausoleum on the banks of the Yamuna River near Agra, built in 1631-1653 by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, is quite possibly the most famous building in the world.

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the Taj Mahal and discovers that the iconic Indian wonder is even more spellbinding than the hype.

97 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN From its insular heart to the barbed-wire borders marking the no-man’s land of its DMZ, North Korea remains a world apart to its closest neighbours and a veritable mystery to the West. The allure of its enigma continues to draw speculation, as only a few intrepid tourists venture forth in an effort to understand the country and its people. Greg Turnbull was one of them.

110 TASTE & SIP The brainchild of world famous French chef, Jean-Georges

CONTENTS

Vongerichten, Matador Room in Miami offers a distinctive interpretation on Latin cuisine, incorporating Spanish, Caribbean and South American flavors. Alex Benasuli discovers why it's one of Miami’s hottest restaurant tickets.

120 MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE

110

Born in Seoul, educated in Vienna and now living in Qatar, award-winning concert pianist and the first Steinway artist in the Gulf, Sonja Park, finds time in her busy schedule to chat with Kalia Michaelides about her Moving Young Artists foundation and how the pianoforte became her musical life companion.

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STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

There’s nothing that gets you more into the spirit of travelling than shopping for a holiday wardrobe, and so for this - the first of two summer issues of TCT - our Editor-in-Chief, Nicholas Chrisostomou and Deputy Editor, Kalia Michaelides, have each hand-picked half a dozen essentials, which they feel sure any fashion conscious cultured traveller shouldn’t leave home for sunnier climes without.

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Editor’s Letter “Live or electronic tour guide?” is a question I'm asked often. Until three years ago I would have come down on the side of the pre-recorded escort - pay, plug-in, switch-on, walk, listen, see. Job done. But when Amsterdam’s iconic Rijksmuseum m re-opened in 2013 (after an inordinately long, drawn-out re-furb) and I'd yet to visit, I decided to book myself a walking tour. There were countless to choose from, on various subjects, departing at regular intervals from the information desk, like trains pulling out of a busy railway ay terminus. It was a mission to find a basic tour. When I eventually y did, I decided on the spur of the moment not to be one of a group - escorted round like lost puppies - so I bought all ten places on my tour and had the guide to myself. She was an inspirational lady in her early sixties, charismatic and dressed in Issey Miyake. The personalised information she imparted, one-on-one, was a revelation. It was there I realised how greatly y I’d missed the personal interaction in a museum. A renewed experience, it completely opened my mind, compelling it to take e in what I was seeing. It had been a long time since I’d absorbed the subject matter on a tour - too many things distract us these days. But when an educated, intelligent person is showing you around a location they’re passionate about, it would be bloody rude to start texting, so instead we focus, listen, ask questions and learn. I've always said that life is a never-ending lesson. I left ft the Rijksmuseum that day, educated and energized, and haven'tt looked back since. e In this issue you’ll come across guides in various guises, as we n explore a trio of contrasting locations, where what we’re shown and how we’re shown it leave an indelible mark on our perceptions of a place and its people. The writer of our North R Korea cover story, Greg Turnbull, was ‘guided’ around the DPR by an altogether different type of chaperone. Orchestrated and unnerving are words that jump to mind when describing his experience of being shuttled around the hermit kingdom. It makes for fascinating reading (p97). A few months ago I visited the Taj Mahal, where I was guided by a lovely chap without whom I definitely wouldn't have appreciated the magnificent site so deeply (p88). Recently, newest TCT contributor, Niall Palmer, spent a week discovering Glasgow, guided by a Glaswegian friend, who took him off the beaten path to places there's no way he would’ve seen otherwise (p39). So it's officiall - when there's a choice (perhaps with the exception of North Korea), a living, breathing human guide is always preferable to a machine. It's rare to be able to say that in this day and age, butt it feels good.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-In-Chief 08 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

JUNE/JULY 2016

Taj Mahal

Glasgow

Penthouse Suite, King George

Contributors Ashlee Starratt

Greg Turnbull

Lives: Doha Wrote: The Cultured Chat

Lives: Doha Wrote: Traveller Lowdown

Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

Greg Turnbull became fascinated with adventure travel in 1981, when at the tender age of 17 he went to the then relatively bizarre destination of Russia with a school friend. The obsession continued when he spent six months each in Russia and Germany as part of his university languages degree. After a few years working for a TV company in London, Greg became an avid nomad, using his job to take him round the world, living in Hong Kong, Italy, Australia and Ireland, before settling in Doha for the past decade, where he now works for renowned news channel, Al Jazeera English.

Niall Palmer

Gordon Hickey

Lives: London Wrote: City Focus

Lives: Dublin Wrote: Taste & Sip: Chapter One

Niall has travelled extensively in Europe, The Americas and Scandinavia. Closer to home, he balances city life with a fascination for the natural world, and his love of the British Isles’ more remote places has led to long sojourns in Ireland, Orkney, Shetland and the Western Isles. For many years, Niall worked with Society of London Theatre, and he now writes regularly about British theatre for www.blog.fromtheboxoffice.com. His passion for the spoken word includes a keen interest in Britain’s Norse and Gaelic storytelling heritage, ranging from the Icelandic sagas through to writers like M. R. James.

Dublin native Gordon may have spent the past decade working as a TV producer, but has spent twenty years in front of the camera exploring the world. Fascinated with maps and geography as a child, he went on his first solo trip to Italy at the tender age of 14 and hasn’t looked back since.

Eating his way around the globe and sampling local street cuisine sees Gordon at his happiest. When he’s not on a plane heading to a foreign destination, you'll find him exploring every historical corner of his Irish homeland.

Dawn Gibson

Alex Benasuli

Lives: London Wrote: No Shoes Required

Lives: London Wrote: Taste & Sip: Matador Room

Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who is passionate about travel, fashion, food, culture and the arts. Never happier than when about to board a plane en route to a far-flung part of the globe, she is also a keen scuba diver always in search of the perfect coral reef. Dawn has worked as a senior news reporter for a leading city daily newspaper in Australia and as editor for a glossy lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Her work has appeared in numerous international print and online publications, including Qatar Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nicholas Chrisostomou DEPUTY EDITOR Kalia Michaelides GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov

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BLOOMSDAY IRELAND

LAJKONIK FESTIVAL POLAND

Cracow is not short of the odd legend or two...maiden-devouring dragons, enchanted pigeons, sorcerers who fly about on giant cockerels - and every summer, one of the most peculiar of them all - a bizarre looking rider with a wizard's hat, oriental attired and huge beard - springs to life in the city's old

town. His name is Lajkonik, and once every year, this exotic figure "gallops" into the Market Square to meet the Mayor. Lajkonik commemorates and celebrates the triumph of Polish commoners against the troops of invader Genghis Khan. According to Polish legend, when the head of Cracow’s defenses defeated the marauders back in the 13th century, he slipped into the Mongolian’s robes and triumphantly rode into the city. This historic event has been re-enacted ever since and the Lajkonik festival was born.

2 June 2016 10 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

DUANWU JIÉ CHINA

The sight of China’s rivers filling with colourful crafts decked out to look like dragons - from their fearsome snouts to their scaly tails can only mean one thing. The annual dragon boat festival. This colourful, yearly event may be a lot of fun but the festival’s roots lie in tragedy. It commemorates Qu Yuan, a revered humanitarian politician, who drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278BC to protest against the Qin state’s invasion of his patch, Chu. The dismayed common people took to their boats and tried to keep the fish and evil spirits from Qu by splashing their oars and beating drums.

Qin eventually conquered all its rival states and created China, but the patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. If you happen to be in Beijing on 9th June, Xiadu Park hosts the biggest celebration in the city. Here, Beijing's university students go head-to-head in an annual inter-university dragon boat race, complete with games and performances, and snack on traditional triangular onzòngzi dumplings.

9 June 2016

Set in Dublin, the vibrant, heady capital of Ireland, brimming with beautiful Georgian architecture and inviting public houses, Bloomsday marks the date upon which the great Irish scribe, James Joyce, took his future wife Nora on their first outing in 1904, after a period of self-imposed exile he deemed necessary to create the critical distance required to write about Dublin. This was also the day Joyce chose to set his masterpiece, the novel, Ulysses. Bloomsday’s literary pilgrims of today, make life reflect art by descending on the locations visited by the novel’s protagonist, Leopold Bloom dressed in full Edwardian costume including city landmark, Davy Byrne’s pub, where they mimic Bloom and tuck into a gorgonzola cheese sandwich with a glass of burgundy. Starting with a full Irish breakfast, the day includes readings, performances and guided walks, plus much time spent drinking and visiting pubs.

11-16 June 2016 www.bloomsdayfestival.ie

FEAST OF ST. ANTHONY PORTUGAL

Every year, on the feast day of St. Anthony, patron saint of Lisbon, the Portugese Portuguese capital goes sardine crazy. The winding, narrow streets and steep staircases in Alfama, the city’s oldest quarter, are bedecked with white lights and blue streamers, potted basil decorations hang from balconies and store fronts, and the air is filled with the smell of fish being grilled outside little houses and restaurants. Couples dance on cobblestones to fado music. Revelers empty pitchers of red sangria and drink sour cherry liqueur out of edible chocolate shot glasses. Sardines blackened over

charcoal are enveloped in traditional bread and devoured by the Portuguese who love the salty taste. Dancers dressed in pink parade down Avenida da Liberdade. For Lisbonites, the Santo Antonio Festival, held every year on the eve of June 13, marks the beginning of the city’s many summer festivities.

12-13 June 2016

REGATTA OF ST. RANIERI ITALY

Every year Pisa stages a 1,500 metre dash up the River Arno, a tradition dating to the 1290s, in celebration of the feast day of San Ranieri, or Saint Rainerius, the city's patron saint. The first regatta was held in 1292 during the Palio of Our Lady of the Assumption. Nowadays four narrow rowing boats, which resemble large gondolas - differently coloured to represent the city’s four districts, with fixed seats and a crew of 8 oarsmen, a helmsman and "montatore" - are fashioned in the style of the frigates of the Medicean Order of the Knights of St. Stephen, a military order founded in 1561. The race against the river's natural current starts near the bridge used by trains to cross the river, and ends in front of the

SUMMER SOLSTICE SÓNAR

SPAIN

Officially billed as a festival of progressive music and multimedia art, music is by far the main focus of this annual, award-winning three-day music extravaganza held in Barcelona, which began in 1994 as a networking opportunity for the music industry. Sónar now attracts 80,000 lovers of electronica every year, who visit to worship cutting-edge artists and DJs hailing from all corners of the world, and gather in the sunny Catalan capital for three days and nights of avant-garde music and spectacular multimedia art exhibitions. Sónar features an eclectic mix of music, technology and art, divided in two parts: Sónar by Day with concerts, workshops and exhibitions; and the main event - Sónar by Night, which consists of a series of extraordinary spectacles held in various locations throughout Barcelona.

16-18 June 2016 www.sonar.es/en/2016

UK

The ancient prehistoric site of Stonehenge in Wiltshire, has been a place of worship and celebration at the time of the summer solstice for thousands of years. The solstice, which means a stopping or standing still of the sun, is when the sun is directly above the northern

hemisphere, indicating midsummer. The summer solstice has been celebrated by everyone from ancient druids performing rituals at stone circles, to new age, neo-Pagan, hippie revelers and modern day scientists. June 21st - the longest day of the calendar year - is a rare chance for members of the public to walk among the ancient stone circle. By sunset, a few thousand people have usually congregated to keep vigil. By sunrise, numbers have invariably swelled to more than 20,000 people gathered to greet the sunrise.

21 June 2016 www.stonehenge.co.uk

Palazzo Medici near the Ponte della Fortezza. The entire day is an Italian celebration of food and drink with festivities throughout the city.

17 June 2016

INTI RAYMI PERU

Peru is famed for its spectacular festivals, featuring traditional, brightly-coloured clothing, dancing and foods, and Inti Raymi (Quechua for "sun festival") is no exception. The ancient Inca so feared the diminished effects of the sun during winter, they would fast, create lavish banquets to honour the sun and sacrifice llamas to ensure a bountiful crop. This important annual recreation brings multitudes of visitors to Cusco for a nine-day winter solstice celebration worshiping the Incan god, Inti. The ceremony marks the beginning of a new year, and lavish banquets, festive music, historical recreations and much dancing praise the Inca, celebrate traditions and will for a fruitful season of harvest. A week’s worth of festivities culminate in an epic daylong event on June 24th, in a royal procession to the ancient fortress.

24 June 2016

PRIDE NEW YORK USA

On 27 June 1969, police raided the Stonewall Inn, a gay bar in New York’s West Village. The ensuing Stonewall riots lasted several days and are considered to be the beginning of the modern gay-rights movement. The first gay pride march was held in 1970 and has became an annual civil rights demonstration around

BATALLA DEL VINO SPAIN

Every year on St. Pedro’s Feast Day in Haro - capital of northern Spain’s Rioja-producing region - thousands of thirsty locals, together with wine-loving tourists, climb a mountain and literally throw vino all over each other. Some tote water pistols loaded with wine. Others are armed with pump-action super-soakers or spray can filled with wine. Meanwhile traditionalists opt for gourds, buckets, bottles and old boots.

Rather than a common-of-garden feast day, locals refer to this messy event as La Batalla de Vino de Haro, or, quite simple, the Wine Fight. The liquid madness starts the previous night, on the evening of June 28th, and as the proceedings unfold all of the townsfolk gather on the streets - from children to grandparents - and party the night away in Haro’s cobbled streets and jumping bars.

28-29 June 2016 www.batalladelvino.com

the world. Over the years, its purpose has broadened to include recognition of the fight against AIDS and to remember those the community lost to illness, violence and neglect. Pride New York is now a massive lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender celebration, attended by tens of thousands and watched by even more. A full week of activities, parties, festivities, concerts and shows (beginning on 19 June 2016), culminates in a show-stopping, carnival-like march through the streets of New York.

26 June 2016 www.nycpride.org

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL SOUTH AFRICA

Started more than forty years ago, when it was designed to draw people to Knysna during the quiet winter season, this annual oyster fest has become one of the most popular events in the Western Cape calendar and something of a general celebration of the good life.

Featuring sporting events as well as a feast of fresh seafood and acres of its marine mollusc namesake (naturally),

the 10-day festival is spread across two weekends and provides fun and activities for the whole family, including a half marathon and two-day cycle tour that is the biggest of its kind in the country. There's also a dive challenge for scuba divers to navigate their way underwater from The Heads to Thesen's Jetty without surfacing, and a two-night exhibition of photography, illustrations and paintings by local artists.

1-10 July 2016 www.oysterfestival.co.za

WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS FINLAND

This bizarre sporting competition, now in it's 24th year, has its roots in the tribal practice of pillaging neighbouring villages for womenfolk.

Apparently a robber by the name of Rosvo-Ronkainen, was particularly keen on the practice of thieving other people's wives in the late 1800's. What started as a light-hearted attraction in the small Finnish town of Sonkajärvi, has become a world recognised event, which sees forty pairs from seven countries compete to complete a 253.5 metre-course in the fastest time. The track is made up of sand, grass and various obstacles, including two log hurdles plus a one-metre deep water obstacle. If the wife weighs less than 49 kilos, she must wear a rucksack to reach this minimum weight. Various techniques are employed to carry the wife, the most popular being the “Estonian” style, where the wife (wearing a crash helmet) is dangling upside down on the man’s back!

1-2 July 2016 www.eukonkanto.fi/en/ 12 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

GION MATSURI JAPAN

Running the entire month of July every year, Gion is probably Japan's best known festival, and one of the longest. Named after Kyoto's Gion district, it’s by far the country’s best event for geisha enthusiasts and photographers seeking candid photos of Geisha and Maiko. Traditional rituals and events related to this wonderful celebration are held throughout the month, the biggest events of the festival being the Yoiyama (the pre-party of the parade) July 14th-16th, and the Yama Hoko Junko on 17th July – the main parade – culminating in the Shinko Festival at 18:00 that day, when the shrine deities that preside over the festival are transported in three special mikoshi (portable shrines) from Yasaka Shrine to the Otabisho.

1-31 July 2016 www.kyotoguide.com

CAMEL CUP

VERBIER FESTIVAL

AUSTRALIA

Held at Blatherskite Park in Alice Springs in the Northern Territory (Australia’s least-populated area) - normally a dusty outback outpost with the feel of a pioneer town - every July the place explodes with belly dancing, bands, rickshaw rallies and, most importantly, camel races. The sport’s appeal lies in the beasts’ unpredictability and stubbornness. Camels snarl, gurn, bite and are known to spit for metres. At the start of a race they might move forwards, stay right where they are or even reverse. But when they get going at full speed, jockeys have a serious job to stay aboard. This desert extravaganza offers all sorts of trophies in addition to the main Imparja trophy, and when you add food stalls and a weekend day with families, it all has the feeling of a county fair. The Afghanistan Cup is presented by the country’s ambassador to Australia, commemorating the Afghans who first brought camels to the outback in 1840.

9 July 2016 www.camelcup.com.au

SWITZERLAND

Created in 1994 by Martin T:son Engstroem, The Verbier Festival has a worldwide reputation for artistic excellence and is now considered one of Europe's most important music festivals. Every July, the greatest names in classical music circles, gather for two weeks amongst the breathtaking landscape of the Swiss Alps, for an exceptional series of some 60 concerts, featuring choirs, orchestras

KIRKPINAR OIL WRESTLING TURKEY

This long-running tradition was reportedly conceived by Ottoman raiders, whose military commander, Süleyman Pasa, would let his bored soldiers unwind between bouts of actual battle by wrestling. On one memorable occasion forty men scuffled at once, with the two fiercest fighters going at each other until past midnight when both died of exhaustion.

When the remaining army had conquered Edirne, the victors referred to the forty soldiers in the name of Kirkpinar, where the wrestling competition has taken place every summer, near Edirne, since 1346. The idea is to prevent your opponent from getting a good grip and so more than 100 barrels of oil are used during the three-day tournament. This really is no-holds-barred wrestling, with contestants grabbing anything and everything to win. With a solid gold belt awarded to the victor, there’s everything to play for.

18-24 July 2016 www.turkishoilwrestling.net

and intimate recitals. In addition to showcasing world-renowned performers, promising new artists and talented young musicians from all over the world are invited to perform alongside their grand masters. The 2016 line-up includes a special jazz evening with Grammy award-winning American singer, Diane Reeves, winner of Best Jazz Vocal Album in 2015, plus a series of concerts by celebrated French classical pianist, Lise de la Salle.

22 July - 7 August 2016 www.verbierfestival.com

HONSHU ISLAND

AMANEMU If you’ve been looking for an excuse to see more of magnificent Japan apart from Tokyo and Kyoto, or needed a tipping point to plan a first time trip, the Aman group, renowned for unparalleled luxury and fine design, have heard your call and recently opened their second property in the land of the rising sun. Amanemu is located in Mie Prefecture, within Ise-Shima National Park in southwest of Honshu Island, off Japan’s eastern coastline. The area abounds in outstanding natural beauty and cultural significance. Forested, rolling hills give way to beautiful Ago Bay, known as the Bay of Pearls. The hotel is located close to one of Japan’s holiest Shinto sites, the Ise Grand Shrine, and the UNESCO World Heritage designated Kumano Kudo pilgrimage trails.

In Amanemu, the group has created its interpretation of a Japanese onsen, a minimalist yet luxurious hot spring sanctuary. This is a place to truly relax and restore.

Pagoda-style structures - fashioned out of wood, bamboo and stone - frame garden courtyards, an infinity pool and various sitting areas, all of which look out towards the calm and blue waters of Ago Bay. At the heart of the Amanemu experience are the onsen or hot springs, which have been an intrinsic part of Japanese wellness and bathing culture for more than a millennia. All 24 suites and four two-bedroom villas feature a private onsen. The property’s wellness centre is designed around a large onsen and also features two private onsen pavilions, in addition to treatment rooms and a well-equipped fitness centre. Dining options focus primarily on refined and farm-to-table Japanese cuisine with some carefully curated Western inclusions. Fish and shellfish come straight from Ago Bay, fruits and vegetables from local farms and Wagyu beef from locally reared cattle.

Between exploring the surroundings - including the nature trails, historical sites and Ago Bay - and relaxing on site in the comfort of the suites, villas, wellness centre and infinity pool, a stay at Amanemu promises to raise the bar on the rural Japanese nature experience. Aman, in Sanskrit, means peace, while Emu, in Japanese, means the sharing joy. Amanemu does exactly that.

ALEX BENASULI www.aman.com/resorts/amanemu

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Rest Your Head

Honshu Island, Budapest, Santiago, Mougins, Melbourne, Cartagena, Cape Town, Rovaniemi, Dubai, Playa Del Carmen, Simien Mountains, New York, Beirut

BUDAPEST

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THE RITZ-CARLTON, BUDAPEST Culture meets pedigree at one of the finest addresses in the EU’s largest historic city. The storied second capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Budapest guards its history close; but intrepid travellers who wander its cobbles will hear its whispered secrets and discover a cultural past that lives on. Tourists can take in the Hungarian Crown Jewels at the city’s neo-Gothic Parliament, revel in the architectural grandeur of St. Stephen’s Basilica, or pay solemn witness to the darker days of the Second World War at The House of Terror – a museum highlighting the bloody epochs of Hungarian history housed on the site of the city’s former war-time Nazi Headquarters.

Visitors to this historic capital will find a home-base in the central lap of luxury at the Ritz-Carlton Budapest. Just minutes from the Danube River in the city’s Andrássy district – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the hotel’s palatial environs befit its regal cultural surroundings. With 170 plush rooms and 30 luxurious suites, it’s a sight-seer’s urban sanctuary. Indulge in a signature treatment or thermal ritual at their tranquil spa, or sip and savour goblets of Hungary’s award-winning wines against a back-drop of Budapest’s best comfort food at the hotel’s Deak St. Kitchen. With in-room décor that’s sleek, contemporary-chic, guests will find comfort in the plushness of their surroundings regardless if they’ve booked themselves into a Superior Room or a Junior Suite.

We especially love their cavernous en-suite baths with heated marble floors and lush Asprey amenities.

George Ezra sings of hidden treasure chests in his hit single, Budapest - and he’s not wrong. The city is a trove for history buffs and culture vultures alike, and while you’re there you may as well put on The Ritz.

ASHLEE STARRATT www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/europe/budapest

SANTIAGO LUCIANO K Pulsating with al fresco drinking and dining, culture, art and an eclectic mix of people, the country's capital and largest city, Santiago de Chile, has become one of Latin America’s most modern and cosmopolitan cities, the result of Chile’s economic growth of the past few decades. Having survived dictatorships, financial instability and earthquakes, Santiago is now the epitome of South American cool. Few places within the city's central urban area demonstrate more fully Santiago's artistic credentials, than the festive Barrio Lastarria neighbourhood. Named in honour of writer José Victorino Lastarria, this colourful district has long been home to bohemian and arty types, and is filled with museums, funky wine bars and chintzy boutiques. In amongst the creative throng, is hotel Luciano K, named after the building's cult Chilean architect, Luciano Kulczewski, who designed this gem as an apartment block in the 1920s. When erected almost a century ago, it was the tallest structure in Chile, and the first in the country to have a lift and central heating.

The re-imagination of this unique building as a 38-room boutique hotel focused around its original, central staircase - has been skillfully executed.

The restoration work has been sympathetically carried-out with tremendous attention to detail, care and thoughtfulness, creating a unique and warm place to rest your head.

Kulczewski’s signature Art Deco detailing has been given a new lease of life. Guest rooms and suites continue the Deco vein, with bright colours used in many of the soft furnishings, with striking effect against the wooden parquet flooring. The restaurant - with its show-stopping, glass geometric back bar - serves tasty, tapas-style dishes produced using local ingredients and organic produce. Meanwhile up on the roof terrace, which boasts incredible views towards Parque Forestal and Alameda Avenue, a pink heated plunge pool, sauna and bijou spa vie for space with sun loungers, multi-coloured tiles, Windsor chairs and an abundance of mood lighting, which when lit, set the perfect scene for a sophisticated evening soirée.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.lucianokhotel.com

June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 19

MOUGINS

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LE MAS CANDILLE The South of France is one of the world’s most popular destinations for jet setters, socialites, the rich and famous, catering well to their whims and fancies.

For cultured travellers who would like to enjoy the best of this Mediterranean paradise whilst keeping a distance from the madding crowd, Mougins is the ideal place to relax in traditional, French provincial surroundings, yet be within easy reach of happening Cannes and Nice just a few miles away, Picasso lived in his Mougins villa for the last 15 years of his life, and over the years many creative and arty types have called this enchanting parcel of the Côte-d’Azur home. The town’s esteemed creative history, medieval flower-filled streets, art galleries, two golf courses and numerous Michelin-starred fine dining restaurants, bring together the charm of Provence and the glamour of the French Riviera in one delightful locale, nestled between pine, olive and cypress trees, just 15 minutes away from the beaches of the Croisette.

Set within a 9-acre haven of greenery, a short amble from the center of Mougins, is Le Mas Candille, a deluxe 5-star boutique hotel of just 46 rooms and suites, housed within a lovingly-restored 18th-century farmhouse in a magnificent hilltop location, offering spellbinding vistas of the valley. The property took its name from its largest cypress tree, of which there is an abundance throughout the hotel’s lush grounds. This is a place that offers calmness and peace in every aspect, and guests visit Le Mas Candille to unwind and recharge in private.

The hotel is divided into three parts: the original 18th-century farmhouse, La Mas, and the more spacious La Bastide and La Villa Candille, the latter being a collection of six suites. La Mas rooms are classic and traditionally furnished, opening onto the farmhouse’s beautiful gardens. La Bastide rooms are bedecked with vintage furniture, art pieces, antiques and fabrics meticulously collected, many with a fascinating history. Suites in La Villa Candille are individually styled and afford gorgeous views of the alpine foothills. Every guest room in the building is unique in some way, and the hotel retains an intimacy and familial atmosphere that positively distinguishes it from many of the other luxury properties in the area. Coupled with a superb on site Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Candille, and Europe’s first Shiseido Spa, it’s difficult not to fall under the plentiful, gentle charms of Le Mas Candille, and unsurprisingly many guests return time after time.

KALIA MICHAELIDES www.lemascandille.co.uk

MELBOURNE

QT MELBOURNE Melbourne - the sun-soaked mecca of Australia’s Victoria state is an urbanite’s oasis and a bohemian’s rhapsody. Art galleries and gypsy boutiques jostle for space amidst a vibrant street culture that shows off the best of Melbourne’s culture, fashion and foodie scenes. Explore the hidden gems along iconic Brunswick Street - and have your tarot read over a cold micro-brew; breathe the salt air and dip your toes in the surf at St. Kilda’s; or slake your hunger at one of the many gastro-pubs serving up a fusion of flavours.

In keeping with the city’s reputation as the arty heart of Oz, it’s only fitting that its roster of hoteliers offer a little quirk with their quarters. Cue the QT Melbourne, the seventh sibling in the avant-garde brand’s portfolio slated to open in August 2016. Known for its funk-ified décor (courtesy of Nic Graham’s team at g+a) and unconventional ethos, the boutique hotel chain will deliver 200 guest-rooms and suites, plus 24 residences, in the revamped Greater Union Cineplex premises on Russell Street. Weekend warriors looking for a down-the-rabbit-hole retreat can stumble into a Wonderland of wig-wearing reception staff and whimsical interiors, while discerning guests can satiate their appetite for sophistication at celebrity chef Robert Marchetti’s Bar & Grill.

Situated in the heart of Melbourne’s business district, Russell Street has gone through an urban renewal of late, making the QT Melbourne’s location prime real estate. A stone’s throw from the cultural hub of Federation Square, hotel guests can easily explore the city on foot, stopping for a taste of Italian on nearby Lygon Street, or a bite of couture – Chanel if you please! – at the five-star boutiques that dot its leafy sidewalks. If there’s one property Down Under this Cultured Traveller can’t wait to check into, the QT Melbourne tops the list.

ASHLEE STARRATT www.qthotelsandresorts.com

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QT SYDNEY

CARTAGENA

DELANO CARTAGENA As a young man exploring Miami, I instinctively knew that the huge, billowing white curtains in the lobby at Delano South Beach, signaled that there was something rather special about this particular hotel. Designed by Philippe Starck and unadorned outside, inside the giant moving screens of fabric, flowing in the Atlantic Ocean breeze, revealed glimpses of quirky furniture and cozy corners, in which guests carefully stationed themselves to attain the best possible position from which to people watch. Twenty years on, Delano's luxe design aesthetic - which skillfully balances eclectic detailing with grand interior gestures - has become a hospitality industry benchmark few have managed to successfully imitate, let alone exceed. The iconic South Beach hotel, which opened in 1995, doesn't appear to have dated at all, and the Morgans group which owns it is now gently and gracefully unveiling equally restrained yet beautiful properties around the globe.

Few places could possibly offer a more perfect backdrop to a Delano hotel, than Colombia's vibrant, colourful, sub-tropical Caribbean playground, Cartagena de Indias. Already attracting design-savvy travellers, seasoned fashionistas, affluent Americans and upwardly-mobile same sex couples, all looking for a cutting-edge South American experience, the city is positively humming to the sound of salsa, brimming with happening bars and filled with gastronomic delights, and discerning vacationers are crying out for a smart, design-led hotel experience. Delano is the hotel that changed South Beach forever, and when Delano Cartagena opens later this year - located on a new beach development, Mar de Indias, on the south side of the city - I fully expect the hospitality industry’s original designer hotel brand to have the same effect on Colombia's colonial crown jewel. This will be Morgans Hotel Group‘s first foray into the South American market, and by all accounts it is taking it very seriously and doing it properly. Delano Cartagena’s 186-room inventory will include magnificent suites and ocean-side bungalows, and guests will have unlimited access to an 18-hole golf course, deluxe spa, fine dining outlets, bars, a nightclub and a decadent beach club to rival its sexy South Beach sibling. Watch out Cartagena - the Delano effect is coming.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.morganshotelgroup.com

CAPE TOWN

TINTSWALO ATLANTIC Is there a more beautiful natural setting for a city than Cape Town? Commanding its perch on the southern tip of the African continent, the Mother City has ocean, sandy beaches, mountains, and is surrounded by gorgeous countryside, mostly vineyards and colonial-era farms.

Cape Town, of course, has a lively downtown, cutting-edge restaurants and numerous sites of historical importance. However it is the drop dead gorgeous and dramatic natural setting that really steals the show, and positions Cape Town in a league of its own as an international destination. There is no better place to experience the Cape Town of outstanding natural beauty, than Tintswalo Atlantic hotel.

Located 25 minutes from downtown, driving towards Hout Bay, just off the road from majestic Chapman’s Peak, Tintswalo Atlantic feels like a private and excusive beach house, a luxurious extension to the Table Mountain National Park in which it is located. The first time I ever drove from Cape Town to Chapman’s Peak, I literally thought I had died and gone to scenic heaven. It’s truly that spectacular. The effect is augmented with the inescapable and hypnotic sensation that the landmass of the African continent is reaching its end.

Following a devastating fire in 2015, Tintswalo Atlantic is open again after an extensive rebuild, promising to be better than ever before. All ten suites, individually decorated, face the water. An expansive deck, built predominantly out of wood and glass in order to blend with the surroundings and maximize the views, lies directly on the foot of the ocean and has offers tremendous vistas of the encroaching mountains.

There are two swimming pools, including one salt water, plus various, inviting sitting areas in which to become one with nature. The on site restaurant is a destination onto itself. For the more active and curious, hikes in the nearby national park and sea kayaking can be organized, as well as excursions to Cape Town, Robben Island, and to the Cape of Good Hope and its famous colony of Jackass penguins.

Tintswalo Atlantic offers much of the best of what makes this part of the world so special - views, natural beauty, amazing food, delectable wines and warm hospitality. With Cape Town and Hout Bay so close-by, you are at once off the beaten track but easily accessible to civilisation, should you need it of course.

ALEX BENASULI www.tintswalo.com/atlantic 24

ROVANIEMI

ARCTIC LIGHT HOTEL The remote Finish city of Rovaniemi, in the heart of Lapland, may be best known for its vantage point to see the Northern Lights and being the official hometown of Santa Claus, and its human population may be smaller than its reindeer count, but outside the freezing winter period, the region offers completely different vacation possibilities, which many people who live in continental Europe discovered a long time ago. From the beginning of June until the end of August, lakes are free of ice and the rich, verdant green forests are positively bursting with life. Waters run through the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki rivers, and snowmobiles and sledges are replaced by boats, kayaks and cruisers. The marshy Riisitunturi National Park and neighbouring Oulanka National Park (so far east it almost touches Russia), with its thick pine forests and picturesque waterways, attract visitors from all over Scandinavia, such is the draw of the beautiful Finnish wilderness and its pure, fresh air, reputed to be the cleanest in Europe.

Arctic Light is a new family-owned hotel situated in the heart of Rovaniemi, occupying a 1950s building that was formerly City Hall.

Recently converted into a stylish 57-room year-round haven of calm and cheer, designed by leading Finnish hotel and restaurant architect, Jaakko Puro, Artic Light positively celebrates its northerliness to the extreme, walking a fine line between chic and camp. “Magic” category rooms boast twinkling headboards, fur throws, cutesy polar bear teddies, oversized beds laden with pillows and cushions and deluxe walk-in showers. Many have their own saunas. Four themed suites include a self-contained “Christmas Cabin” complete with the obligatory tree. Service is warm and friendly, and the welcoming lobby - guarded by an 11-foot polar bear beside the entrance - is a popular meeting place for friends and families, embarking upon an adventurous afternoon outing, beyond the city limits in the lush countryside beyond.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.arcticlighthotel.fi

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DUBAI

W DUBAI AL HABTOOR CITY Dubai; jewel of the GCC. In the desert city that never sleeps, it’s about time the iconic W Hotel brand lived up to its Whatever/Whenever motto in this Middle Eastern playground. Soft opening this month, this marks W Hotels’ first foray into the UAE, and the swishy group couldn’t have picked a more prime position than the centrally located Al Habtoor City development. With its towering residential and penthouse superstructures, a 1,400-seat water-show theatre conceptualised by Cirque du Soleil’s Franco Dragone, and an exclusive tennis academy and clubhouse, it’s an urban oasis on the shores of Dubai Canal.

Want to feel like royalty upon arrival? Guests checking-in at W Dubai Al Habtoor City get the regal treatment on arrival - the Welcome Desk is all the way up on the hotel’s 30th floor, where the sky’s the limit as far as panoramic views go. The hotel’s 356 rooms are similarly space age chic and super well appointed, many bearing names like Spectacular and Marvellous.

Dubai’s glitterati can mix, mingle and sip their way through Executive Chef David Contreras’ inspired F&B concepts. Bringing 15 years’ experience gleaned from luxury properties in South America, Africa and the Middle East, Contreras and his team have their craft down to a palate-pleasing art. NAMU promises an inspired menu of Asian delicacies; Level Seven takes foodies on a Mediterranean tour de force, while the zingy cocktails at W Lounge are just waiting to be lapped up. With state-of-the-art audio-visual elements throughout the hotel, the W Dubai Al Habtoor City is a futuristic, well-dressed retreat of stylish proportions. Views of the Burj Khalifa? Check. Sumptuous cuisine in haute surroundings? Check. Tigers on a gold leash? Why not - this is Dubai and you’re staying at the W. ASHLEE STARRATT www.wdubaialhabtoorcity.com

HYATT REGENCY CHANDIGARH Three hours and 250 km drive from New Delhi, heading northwards towards fresh mountain air and a more conventional, seasonal climate, lies an Indian city with a population of well over one million, which was planned by world renowned Swiss-French architect, Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris, better known as Le Corbusier. Chandigarh was originally dreamed-up by India's first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and is located in the foothills of the Sivalik Hills, a mountain range of the outer Himalayas. Renowned and admired countrywide, Chandigarh is one of the best experiments in urban planning and modern architecture in 20th century India. Streets are straight, clean and organised in a grid system, with different districts marking out neighbourhoods.

The city is well kept, tidy and ordered.

Its townsfolk are affluent, proud and generally well-to-do. Basically, Chandigarh is an organised revelation in a country where organised chaos is so often the norm. The newly-built 211-room Hyatt Regency Chandigarh recently opened it's glossy, polished chrome doors in the center of this upwardly mobile metropolis, and is already - just a few months after débuting - making hospitality waves amongst the city's elite, national celebrities and Bollywood stars.

The position of the property - central to the city’s business hub and adjacent to upscale Elante Mall - makes the hotel not only a destination in its own right, but also the perfect spot for a staycation or spa weekend in the heart of Chandigarh.

Generously sized guest rooms including 25 suites and seven cabana rooms - echo Le Corbusier’s sleek design ethic, and feature luxurious marble bathrooms, contemporary bespoke furniture, locally-inspired artwork and colourful carpeting. Each overlooks the calm cityscape, temperature-controlled swimming pool or landscaped gardens. A full service spa with multiple treatment rooms, well-equipped gym, the biggest pillar-less ballroom in the city, pool bar, 24-hour café, a multitude of concept restaurants including a high-end Italian, plus a happening bar, complete the range of 21st century amenities provided to business and leisure guests. If Chandigarh wasn’t on your Indian tour map before, it most certainly should be now.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU chandigarh.regency.hyatt.com 28

CHANDIGARH

ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBÁ The Maya was undoubtedly one of the most enigmatic civilisations in ancient history. Their sophisticated hieroglyphics, ceremonial architecture, astronomical beliefs and immense mathematic knowledge are stills topic of research for scientists and archaeologists today.

In the indigenous land of the Maya, south of Cancun and north of Playa del Carmen, nestles Rosewood Mayakobá hotel, surrounded by dense forests and pristine white beaches. Luxury is redefined in this magical all-suite retreat, which sits in 1,600 acres of verdant terrain, touching the azure waters of the Caribbean. Offering complete solitude, the sprawling property boasts 130 suites laden with private heated plunge pools, outdoor rain-showers, rooftop sundecks, terraces and gardens, all distinctively designed and beautifully executed. The aquatic aura of the guest rooms is further enhanced by meandering lagoons, mangroves and boat docks. Open space floor plans decorated with sophisticated furnishings, coupled with oversized bathrooms fashioned out of limestone and marble, create a plush yet relaxed home away from home environment. There is no formality here. Rooms are purpose-designed purely for vacationing. Deluxe overwater lagoon suites float graciously above emerald waters. Located literally steps away from the sand, beachfront studio suites offer unobstructed views of the turquoise Mexican Caribbean. Expansive floor-to-ceiling windows give secluded duplex island suites - located on the resort’s dedicated spa island - a distinctly residential feel, making them perfect for longer breaks.

Dining at Mayakobá is lifted to another level via its wide choice of culinary settings. Casa del Lago serves Italian cuisine fused with hints of Mexico, its bar is the hotel’s go-to place for margaritas and moreish tapas, and its glass-walled wine room, La Cava, can be used as a private dining space for small groups or romantic dinners à deux. The Caribbean Sea provides the spectacular backdrop to the flavoursome regional Riviera Maya specialties served at beachside restaurant, Punta Bonita. And you cannot leave Mexico without sampling some of the country’s fine tequilas. More than 100 premium varieties are served at the hotel’s on site sushi and tequila bar, Agave Azul, so you won’t have far to totter if you inadvertently have one shot too many!

KALIA MICHAELIDES www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/mayakoba-riviera-maya 30

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

LIMALIMO LODGE North Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains have often been dubbed Africa’s equivalent of the Grand Canyon. A UNESCO world heritage site, this vast national park is home to Ethiopia’s tallest mountain at just over 4.5 km, Ras Dashen, as well as high plateau, soaring peaks, jagged rock formations and deep gullies that literally drop off hundreds of metres. The park is also home to large colonies of Gelada monkeys, leopards, Ethiopian wolves, the endangered walia ibex and an abundance of birdlife.

The brainchild and labour of love of two native Simien mountain guides, who dreamt of sharing, cherishing and preserving the wildlife and spectacular scenery of the treasured environment they prized for decades, Limalimo Lodge is perched atop a dramatic escarpment in amidst the national park, boasting spectacular vistas across miles of rugged lowland, making it the perfect base from which to explore this incredible, unspoiled landscape.

The bulk of the building work to create the lodge, was carried out by construction workers from the local community, many of whom also now work on the property. By building with rammed earth, wood and thatch, the guest accommodation complements the natural environment, rather than intrudes upon it. 14 contemporary-designed, luxury en-suite rooms are dotted throughout the site’s 10 hectares of lush vegetation, so that guests can be saturated in the peace and privacy of their surroundings. Fruit and vegetables are grown in the lodge’s gardens, and fresh produce is purchased locally to cater specifically to guests’ requirements and culinary tastes. At Limalimo Lodge, the earth, nature, wildlife and hospitality truly come together as one, with minimal negative impact on the precious, surrounding ecosystem.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.limalimolodge.com

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SIMIEN MOUNTAINS

LIBRARY HOTEL Boutique hotels spring up on a seemingly daily basis. Flamboyant buildings with enticing interiors are designed to lure-in travellers. New hotels of today must devise innovative concepts and create clever niches to establish themselves as unique and competitive in the increasingly saturated hospitality arena. In a bustling, ceaselessly evolving city like New York, this task is even more challenging, especially given that real estate is so costly and land ripe for development so incredibly scarce.

Located at 299 Madison Avenue, on the corner of 41st Street (which was once known as Library Way), in the heart of midtown Manhattan, Library Hotel’s concept is inspired by the Dewey Decimal classification system, with each of the 10 floors representing one of the system’s 10 categories and stocked with books and art to suit. Each of the 60 guest rooms is adorned with a collection of tomes, which explore that particular category’s topic, with the building housing more than 6,000 books.

Some people may pass off this hotel as a geek’s hub, but on the contrary I can see the romantic side of it, for instance, room 1100.006’s theme of “Love” is illustrated with books hand-picked by America’s favorite sex therapist, Dr. Ruth Westheimer.

Guest rooms are decorated in a soft and soothing palette of colours, which blend harmoniously with the mahogany wood furnishings. Interiors are cleverly designed to maximize space and functionality.

Back down on the ground floor, Madison & Vine, the hotel’s cosy American bistro and wine bar, is a favourite hangout of New Yorkers.

Hearty food is served in retro surroundings and on balmy days patrons can dine al fresco and watch people pass by. Library Hotel’s Reading Room, located on the second floor, is available to guests 24 hours a day, offering magnificent views of Madison Avenue and Library Way and featuring hundreds of books, with a selection of complimentary teas and coffees to make your reading time as comfortable as possible. In a city that is renowned to never sleep, this must surely be one of the most peaceful places to spend an afternoon with a good book.

KALIA MICHAELIDES www.libraryhotel.com 34

NEW YORK

PRIZE DRAW

36

WIN

PRIZE WORT USD 2 H ,000

TWO NIGHT WEEKEND STAY AT LE GRAY, BEIRUT Winning a luxury weekend at Le Gray - located in the downtown cosmopolitan epicentre of the Lebanese capital - is your gateway to discover the intense charms and diverse culture of vibrant Beirut.

To set the tone of your Le Gray stay from the very start, a limousine will be waiting for you at BEY airport to whisk you into the heart of the city.

Your home away from home for your weekend in Beirut, will be a spacious deluxe Executive Suite, complete with oversized marble bathroom.

You will enjoy daily breakfasts at Indigo on the Roof, taking full advantage of the sweeping views of the city while you plan your days.

Cool off in Le Gray's dramatic glass rooftop pool, from which you can cast your eye across the cityscape, Mediterranean Sea and mountains beyond.

On the last night of your stay, you will feast on a delicious three-course dinner at Indigo on the Roof, paired with a bottle of wine from a Lebanese domain.

Complimentary internet connectivity throughout your stay at Le Gray will enable you to post non-stop updates on social media!

Le Gray, Beirut is a contemporary luxury hotel as stylish as the city itself.

Located in the historic heart of the capital, 15 minutes from the airport, the hotel stands at the very entrance of Downtown, offering an opportunity to discover the best of the city on foot. From ancient ruins, historical churches and mosques, to luxury shopping boutiques, incredible restaurants and unparalleled nightlife - all are easily accessible from Le Gray. www.legray.com • Facebook/legraybeirut • Twitter and Instagram @legraybeirut

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM. Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 31 July 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of August 2016. This prize can be used until 30 June 2017, subject to room availability and certain terms and conditions. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

T H E G E O R G E H OT E L E d i n bu r g h thegeorgehoteledinburgh.co.uk

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GLASGOW

SCOTLAND’S CREATIVE, BEATING HEART NIALL PALMER osmopolitan, artistic, friendly: ask Glaswegians to choose three words to describe their city and you’ll soon have adjectives scattering like the petals of Rabbie Burns’ Red, Red Rose on a cool summer breeze. Whatever expectations you arrive with, this bustling industrial metropolis, rich in life and culture, is likely to exceed. On the long light evenings of the Scottish summer, Glasgow’s streets take on a distinctly European feel, with al-fresco dining and pavement cafés citywide, welcoming

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visitors and natives alike. Glasgow’s slogan should be “come on in”. As the UK’s fourth most populous city, one might think of Glasgow as Prince Harry to Edinburgh’s Prince William - cheeky, roguish and just a little more likely to get you into trouble on a night out.

Glasgow punches well above its weight in creative output as well as possessing an enviable ability to hold its whisky. The city’s cultural epicentre is without doubt its world famous

On the long light evenings of the Scottish summer, Glasgow’s streets take on a distinctly European feel, with al-fresco dining and pavement cafés citywide, welcoming visitors and natives alike.

KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 39

GALLERY OF MODERN ART

RIVERSIDE MUSEUM

art school - an institution of boundless creativity and aesthetic fertility, producing a seemingly unending flurry of Turner Prize winners.

GEORGE SQUARE

venture around the city. All worthy of inclusion on your must see list, are Provand’s Lordship - Glasgow’s oldest house built in 1471 - medieval St Mungo’s Cathedral which dates back to medieval times, and Glasgow City Chambers, After touching down on Scottish soil, the perfect base from looming like a civic leviathan over statues of four of which to explore Glasgow is Blythswood Square Hotel, Scotland’s proudest sons - Robert Burns, James Watt, Sir situated in a quiet, pretty Georgian square, a short walk Robert Peel and Sir Walter Scott. Glasgow is a city where from all the city’s major sights. From here you’re ideally regularly casting your eyes heavenward is essential, in order placed to take a leisurely stroll, explore the nooks and not to miss architectural detail and historic gems. As you crannies of the Merchant City traverse the metropolis, and discover the boutiques you’ll see original tenement and cafés along houses and beautiful The city’s cultural epicentre is off-the-beaten-track alleys Victorian villas, now highly without doubt its world famous art that Google maps doesn’t sought after as residences for school - an institution of boundless show. Glasgow is actually a well-to-do modern fairly easy city to navigate, as Glaswegians. But while the creativity and aesthetic fertility, it’s laid out in a grid system city preserves and celebrates producing a seemingly unending much like New York, but its design past, it just as flurry of Turner Prize winners. distance and undulating keenly embraces the more topography make the modern in dramatic hop-on-hop-off city architectural works by Sir sightseeing tours which start from George Square Norman Foster and the late great Zaha Hadid. (www.hop-on-hop-off-bus.com) a far more efficient way to explore, and boy does Glasgow offer rich rewards to the What Antonio Gaudi is to Barcelona, Scottish architect, aesthetically and intellectually curious. With its diverse and designer and artist, Charles Rennie Mackintosh is to picturesque panoramic cityscape, Glasgow should almost Glasgow, albeit on a less flamboyant scale. Mackintosh’s certainly be an architectural world heritage site. From the influence permeates the city via his buildings, including the glittering elegance of The People’s Palace, to the grand Scotland Street School Museum, Glasgow School of Art and baroque style of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, the former Glasgow Herald building on Mitchell Street, now you’ll happen upon countless wonderful buildings as you The Lighthouse. After leaving The Lighthouse, cross 40 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

MARGARET MACDONALD AT GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART

SHARMANKA KINETIC THEATRE

CLYDE RIVERSIDE

TRONGATE AREA

Buchanan Street and take a look around the Gallery of In the recent past two key events had a significant effect Modern Art, which displays cutting-edge works from local, upon the city - Glasgow being the European City of Culture national and international artists. After a dose of artistic in 1990, and the city hosting the 2014 Commonwealth inspiration, recharge with a coffee and something sweet in Games. As a result, many Europeans have made Glasgow one of Royal Exchange Square’s many open-air cafés and their home, evidenced by the sheer number of international restaurants, and peruse Glasgow’s essential listings guide, accents I heard fused with the local patter. There are few The Skinny (www.theskinny.co.uk/). Then retrace your things quite so charming (and confusing) as hearing a steps to St Vincent Place and hop back on the bus along the Spanish bartender talk to you in a Glaswegian accent! river towards the striking and multi-award winning Riverside Museum - which Criss-crossed with bridges, chronicles the history of along the River Clyde is a transport on land and sea beautiful place to stride, and From the glittering elegance of and on to University of you’ll find wide paths The People’s Palace, to the grand Glasgow. This Gothic revival stretching several miles from baroque style of Kelvingrove Art

by Sir George Gilbert Scott BBC Scotland studios right dominates the Glasgow the way along to Glasgow Gallery and Museum, you’ll happen skyline and dates from the Green (location of The upon countless wonderful buildings late 19th century. Walk People’s Palace and Winter as you venture around the city. through the handsome Gardens) without ever university cloisters - the light needing to leave the in summer is quite beautiful riverbank. If time is short and and enter the Hunterian Museum to see spectacular you need to zip around town, whilst taxis are plentiful, monumental sculpture, from various parts of the city, some Glasgow’s mass transit system includes a highly efficient dating back to pre-Roman times, including sections of the underground network, lovingly known as the Clockwork Antonine Wall. Here you will also find one of the world’s Orange. most exquisite pieces of furniture, Whistler’s Harmony in Yellow and Gold: The Butterfly Cabinet. The Hunterian To the south of the city you’ll find 360 acres of woodland and Museum also houses a meticulous reconstruction of the open countryside, Pollok Country Park, and nestled amongst interiors of the Glasgow home of Charles Rennie Mackintosh its trees, the world-class Burrell Collection, featuring a and his wife, Margaret. significant collection of Degas as well as Dutch, Chinese and

Islamic masterpieces. Glasgow’s museums and galleries really are world class, and back in town, Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum houses one of Dali’s greatest masterpieces, Christ of St John on the Cross. This achingly beautiful depiction of Christ is just one of the incredible exhibits in a collection to rival any international art institution. I left Kelvingrove with a sense of genuine awe - along with a smile that a world-class museum can still contain so many stuffed animals!

Of course, there’s only so much culture any one person can take in one day, so do stop for a spot of lunch in Rogano’s fabulous Art Deco dining room, or enjoy champagne and oysters at the bar. After lunch, a little retail therapy will almost be in order. Step out of Rogano and you’re in the bustling heart of the central shopping areas of Princes Square and Buchanan Street. Here you’ll find the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Diesel, Hugo Boss and Apple, plus an array of diamond rings and jewellery in The Argyll Arcade close-by. After lightening your bank balance, walk up to Sauchiehall Street to take afternoon tea in The Willow Tearooms. Despite having seen better days, these Rennie Mackintosh designed Art Deco rooms still retain just enough of their original character to make the slightly hit-and-miss service unimportant. There is nothing more perfect on a rainy afternoon than a pot of tea and scones with cream and jam, to transport you back to a time when life was genteel and teatime lasted all day.

From the glittering elegance of The People’s Palace, to the grand baroque style of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, you’ll happen upon countless wonderful buildings as you venture around the city.

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MY GLASGOW What's not to love about Glasgow?! The city has reinvented itself over the past few years as a cultural powerhouse of music, creative arts, design and innovative cuisine. Glasgow's food and drink scene is about experience and authenticity - keeping it real and serving it well.

The Merchant City is a firm favourite for eating out.

Whether its brunch and Bloody Mary’s at much-celebrated Café Gandolfi (www.cafegandolfi.com), lunch at Guy’s for one of the best steaks in town (www.guysrestaurant.co.uk), or AREA MANAGER, ROX dinner and cocktails at glamorous Hutchesons DIAMONDS & THRILLS (www.hutchesonsglasgow.com), wherever you choose will impress with its imaginative and cosmopolitan culinary offerings.

Whenever I’m in Glasgow’s West End, a visit to the Ubiquitous Chip is a must. Its superb brasserie-style food and fantastic wine list, have made this restaurant a Glasgow foodie institution for a long time now (www.ubiquitouschip.co.uk). On the way back into the city centre, I highly recommend calling into George Mewes Cheese on Byres Road to pick-up some exceptional fromages (www.georgemewescheese.co.uk).

Shoppers in Glasgow are seriously spoilt for choice with designer and vintage shops galore. The biggest brands and major retailers can be found in Glasgow's Style Mile. Another retail must see, situated in the heart of Glasgow’s shopping metropolis, is the city’s famous Argyll Arcade, which offers the largest selection of diamond jewellery and watches in any single location in Scotland (www.argyll-arcade.com).

For a little bit of luxury Malmaison is hard to beat. Set in a former Greek Orthodox church, the hotel is perfectly located when planning a weekend in the city (www.malmaison.com/glasgow). A great time to visit is around the start of August, when the Merchant City Festival is in full swing (www.merchantcityfestival.com). This year the festival starts on Saturday 30th July and continues until Sunday 7th August.

Don't miss it!

ALAN STREET

PEOPLE'S PALACE AND WINTER GARDENS

Once you’ve shopped till you’ve dropped and completely satiated your cultural inner-beast, it’s high time to feed your Glaswegian gourmand.

Glasgow has an enduring love affair with the sea and the city offers abundant fresh seafood in a staggering array of restaurants, from simple oyster bars to restaurant gems like Gamba and Gandolfi Fish. After a week of dining out on incredibly delicious and well-presented fare, I was astonished to learn that the city does not possess a single Michelin star.

As well as seafood, something else Scotland also does rather well is distil. While America, Ireland and now even Japan produce tremendous whisky, it’s hard to dispute that Scotland is the spiritual home of the single malt. Sup a warming dram in one of the city’s best traditional pubs; The Pot Still, The Bon Accord or The Ben Nevis. All three offer a traditional pub environment and a bemusing array of blended Scotch and single malts. Alternatively The Wee Pub at the Chip, on Ashton Lane, invites you to join its whisky club - and it’s difficult to refuse a visit to Ashton Lane on a summer’s evening. This pretty cobbled street has a distinctly Gaelic feel - like a miniature Temple Bar - and as live music wafts out into the night you’d be forgiven for wondering whether you haven’t crossed the Giant’s Causeway and ended up in Dublin.

While you’re there, if the whisky hasn’t led you astray, take in a film at the Grosvenor Cinema, curled up on one of the deluxe picture palace’s incredibly comfy sofas.

Despite having seen better days, the Rennie Mackintosh designed Willow Tea Rooms still retain just enough of their original character to make the slightly hit-and-miss service unimportant.

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MY GLASGOW Large, exciting and vibrant, and frequently name-checked the world’s friendliest city. People really do make Glasgow and they are our greatest asset. As a city centre resident, living in the Merchant City, there is so much to do and see in this fabulous metropolis.

The Necropolis is located behind Glasgow Cathedral and is one of Europe’s most significant cemeteries. It’s a must for visitors looking to do something a little bit out the ordinary. It has wonderful architecture, sculptures and is ‘alive’ with fascinating stories.

The organised walking tours are HEAD OF ENTERPRISE, D C THOMSON & CO LTD. check. Check online at www.glasgownecropolis.org/.

Another beautiful place to visit is Glasgow University, to see its stunning east and west quadrangles (www.gla.ac.uk/about/visit/tour/) Outside of London, Glasgow is one of the best places to shop. On Ingram Street - which is lined with gorgeous Victorian sandstone buildings - you’ll find many exclusive and fabulous places to spree, such as Cruise, Gant, Agent Provocateur and Armani, to name but a few.

Glasgow’s eating and drinking scene is blossoming, with something to suit all tastes and pockets and gastronomic gems scattered throughout the city. Many of the city's neighbourhoods have their own culinary ecosystems, boasting independent bars, one-off cafés and unique restaurants. One such neighbourhood is Finnieston - which has been transformed from an industrial wasteland into a vibrant district full of arty hangouts and funky bars and restaurants. Here, Crabbshakk (www.crabshakk.com), Rioja (www.riojafinnieston.co.uk) and Ox and Finch (www.oxandfinch.com) serve the best wines, local beers and delicious fare made from locally-sourced produce. These three establishments are all within a few minutes walking distance of each other in Finnieston.

Back in the Merchant city, Bruitti Compadre has a great vibe throughout the day, serves delicious platos pequeños (small plates), is so stylish it wouldn’t look out of place in Madrid and has a superb outdoor space for al fresco dining, Glasgow weather permitting of course! (www.brutticompadres.com)

CRAIG HOUSTON

TOWN HALL

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Entertainment is everywhere in Glasgow and its theatre scene is so alive and booming, that part of the city is colloquially referred to as Theatreland. Whilst musicians of the Royal Scottish National Orchestra and Scottish Opera have made Glasgow their home, and major national and international companies tour here, you’ll also find the quirky and unusual in amongst the more mainstream. Not to be missed is Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre where clockwork figures move in a surreal ballet of sound and light (www.sharmanka.com). Also Britannia Panopticon - said to be the world’s oldest surviving music hall - which showcases performers and cabaret artists from across Scotland (www.britanniapanopticon.org).

Glaswegians really enjoy their weekends and this is when areas like the Merchant City district, in the city centre, truly come alive.

Cool and arty types hang out in vibrant Finnieston neighbourhood, while serious clubbers head to Sub Club, the longest running underground dance club in the world (www.subclub.co.uk).

There’s a safe, clean and welcoming feel to Scotland’s biggest city, and the council’s current slogan “People make Glasgow” is heartfelt. It may be a little rough around the edges, and you’re as likely to get soaked as sunburned, but Glasgow is a city I thoroughly enjoyed, fell in love with and found very hard to leave.

NECROPOLIS

MY GLASGOW To dip your toes into Glasgow’s art and design scenes, and perhaps embark on your own creative activity, head to Glasgow School of Art in the city centre, where all year round you can see internationally renowned artist, designer and student exhibitions (www.gsa.ac.uk). Literally down the hill (Glasgow is hilly!) call into the galleries of the Centre for Contemporary Arts (www.cca-glasgow.com), which also houses Aye-Aye Books, sellers of more unusual fine art and design publications (www.aye-ayebooks.com). Visit Trongate 103 arts centre (+44 COURSE LEADER, GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART 141 276 8380) and Transmission gallery (www.transmissiongallery.org) and talk to those who work there - they like to chat and are very knowledgeable.

Some of my most memorable visual art and theatrical experiences have been at Tramway on the South Side, consisting of two performance spaces and galleries in a former tram depot in the Pollokshields area of Glasgow (www.tramway.org).

For live music go east to Barrowlands (www.glasgow-barrowland.com), Òran Mór (www.oran-mor.co.uk) or Saint Luke’s (www.stlukesglasgow.com). The latter are intimate venues and much of what they present not only entertains but also challenges perceptions.

Don’t be afraid to stroll in Glasgow - this is the best way to find what interests you, or better still hire someone like me to be your guide! If you are a runner, run the length of the Clyde from east to west, from Glasgow Green to the Hydro. If you hire a car, navigating the city is easy and journey times fairly quick - just keep loose change handy for parking.

For the best food and drink, visit Rogano (www.roganoglasgow.com), Drygate (www.drygate.com) and Crabshakk (www.crabshakk.com). For vintage clothes hit Mr Ben (www.mrbenretroclothing.com), The Glasgow Vintage Co (www.glasgowvintage.co.uk) and Vintage Guru (www.vintageguru.co.uk). And don’t miss The Barras, a market that is eccentric in its own inimitable Glasgow style (www.theglasgowbarras.com).

DEBORAH HOLLAND

BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE Boasting 93 stylish guest rooms, 6 suites and a spectacular penthouse, to stay at Blythswood Square is to experience attentive Glasgow hospitality and a genuinely warm welcome in one of the city’s best locations. The hotel occupies a glorious, oversized Georgian townhouse, in a peaceful square with a delightful garden at its centre, and includes a number of original features dating back to the golden age of motoring, when the building was the headquarters of the Royal Scottish Automobile Club.

Calming tones and use of Harris tweed throughout - even down to uniforms - lend a rich and luxe style to Blythswood, and the hotel’s guest rooms, bedecked with Egyptian cotton linen and married with hand crafted Spanish marble bathrooms, provide supremely comfortable accommodation and the perfect base from which to explore the city, kick-started every morning with a glorious full Scottish breakfast.

The Blythswood’s impressive restaurant - housed in a grand former ballroom - never feels crowded, and tasty, classic Scottish dishes with a twist are served efficiently by discreet and friendly staff. Adjacent to the restaurant, The Salon is an elegant space to enjoy traditional afternoon tea overlooking the gardens, or lounge and relax with a cocktail or glass of bubbles.

The hotel’s award-winning 10,000 sq.ft. spa uses Ishga organic Scottish seaweed skin care products, and incorporates 9 relaxing treatment rooms, a thermal suite offering a range of experiences, two relaxation pools and a soothing lounge. If it weren’t for the enticing city outside, guests would find it almost impossible to leave behind the spa’s deluxe, pampering confines. www.townhousecompany.com/blythswoodsquare/ 48 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

APEX CITY OF GLASGOW Home to 104 modern rooms and suites, to stay in a duplex suite atop Apex City of Glasgow - decorated in sunshine yellow and slick grey - is to experience bright, functional bachelor pad hotel living, where upscale design and stylish detailing prevail. Each duplex suite feels like a compact penthouse flat, with the bedroom upstairs and living area and bathroom below (including a walk-in shower with Elemis products), all fronted by sprawling, double-height windows offering panoramic vistas of the city and hills beyond. Workaholics and visitors to the city on business will enjoy immensely their functional workspace with a fabulous view.

Downstairs, the hotel’s dining room and bar is an informal funky affair, with a combination of cosy semi-circular booths, formal seating and lounge-style tub chairs providing a casual environment in which to take breakfast, have a snack or order something more substantial, before venturing out onto bustling and characterful Bath Street. www.apexhotels.co.uk/apex-city-of-glasgow-hotel

SEE

CITIZENS THEATRE In the Gorbals area on the south bank of the River Clyde, opposite a derelict tower block, is an iconic example of Victorian theatre. Ignoring the uninspiring exterior, inside is a Grade B listing building with beautiful original features and the most complete working Victorian theatre machinery in the UK. First opened in 1878, it is now one of Scotland’s flagship theatre companies, under the artistic direction of Dominic Hill. A quirky foyer with odd statues and a theatre bar, lead into a stunning auditorium. Ticket prices ensure that this remains a theatre with the local community at its heart. www.citz.co.uk/

KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM

Arriving at the UK’s most visited museum outside of London feels an impressively grandiose affair.

Built in Spanish Baroque style, inside Kelvingrove you will find remarkable collections of art and design, sculpture, silver and ceramics, clothing and furniture, plus an inordinately large number of stuffed animals. Kelvingrove offers asuch a large and eclectic (and at times surreal) mix of artefacts and exhibits that there is invariably something within the museum’s grand edifice for everyone, young and old alike. www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/kelvingrove

SHARMANKA

Founded by sculptor-mechanic Eduard Bersudsky and theatre director Tatyana Jakovskaya in St. Petersburg, Russia, in 1989, to step into the world of Sharmanka is to feel like a child on Christmas morning. Hundreds of carved figurines and clockwork machines created from old scrap, come to life through hauntingly evocative music and multi-coloured lighting in a bizarre ballet of whirring cogs, clanking chains and ringing bells, “telling the funny and tragic stories of the human spirit as it struggles against the relentless circles of life and death”. Visiting Sharmanka is a mesmerising experience and one of Glasgow’s hidden gems not to be missed. www.sharmanka.com

THE NECROPOLIS

As atmospheric on a balmy summer’s afternoon as on a foggy winter morning, visiting Glasgow’s haunting Victorian garden cemetery is a reminder to us all that life is to be cherished. Ironically juxtaposed with the equally impressive Glasgow Royal Infirmary and within a gravestone’s throw of Glasgow Cathedral, the city’s architects seem to have covered all bases. With more than 50,000 people interred in its hallowed grounds, the tombs here read like a roll-call of the great and good of the city’s past. www.glasgownecropolis.org/

GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART

There’s been a school of art in Glasgow since 1845 and GSA is still ranked as one of the world’s best.

Many Turner Prize winners are former GSA students, including Richard Wright and Martin Boyce.

Tragically, part of the building was seriously damaged by fire in 2014 but visiting for a tour remains a highlight for the insight it gives into this revered creative institution. At the end of the tour, enter the furniture gallery with examples of work by GSA alumni Charles Rennie Mackintosh and superb figurative work by Margaret MacDonald. www.gsa.ac.uk/ 50

CITIZENS THEATRE

ONE DEVONSHIRE GARDENS 52

TASTE

ONE DEVONSHIRE GARDENS In the city’s elegant Hyndland residential area, atmospheric period interiors and stained glass combine to create the grand yet intimate feel of a private members club at Hotel Du Vin Glasgow. The hotel’s destination dining establishment, One Devonshire Gardens, is sufficiently reserved for an intimate business dinner and amply discrete for a romantic liaison or clandestine soirée. Recommended is the seven-course tasting menu at GBP 59 paired with wines for an extra GBP 40 selected by skilled assistant sommelier, Fiona Sutherland. www.hotelduvin.com/locations/glasgow/bistro/

DAKOTA BAR & GRILL

Below the newly opened Dakota Deluxe hotel, Ken McCulloch and Amanda Rosa have utilised their combined gifts for hospitality and design to create a dark, brooding interior and rather excellent dining experience. In less expert hands the Dakota Bar & Grill could have lurched towards 1970s Jackie Collins, but via impeccable service and an unpretentious and well-executed menu, the overall effect is classy, decadent and understated. Nibble on Fritto Misto while agonising over the perfect side order to accompany your Côte de Boeuf. http://glasgow.dakotahotels.co.uk/bar-grill/

GANDOLFI FISH

In the heart of the Merchant City is this extension of Glasgow foodie institution, Café Gandolfi. Gandolfi Fish continues the city’s love affair with the bounteous harvest of the sea. Freshly cooked fish dishes are efficiently served an environment of distressed wooden floors, large mirrors and clean white tiled walls which lend the feel of a smart seaside eatery. The daily set lunch menu is particularly good value for money. www.cafegandolfi.com/gandolfi-fish/

GAMBA

Descend a stone staircase to this pescetarian culinary jewel.

Waiters in striped ties and crisp white aprons dart between tables like rock lobsters in an azure sea. An understated menu trusts the food to do the talking, and it’s very clear why. In the hands of head chef Derek Marshall, the simple becomes extraordinary and each plate is bursting with flavours and presented with exquisite detailing. Marshall’s culinary flair paired with his team’s hospitality prowess, lends Gamba a relaxed air with an intoxicating aroma of the sea. The sashimi of yellowtail tuna is so pretty it could easily grace a Kanō Eitoku painting. A visit to Gamba is a gastronomic treat not to be missed when visiting Glasgow. www.gamba.co.uk/

CITATION TAVERNE & RESTAURANT

Glasgow’s former landmark Sheriff Court building is home to fashionable bar and restaurant, Citation. The award-winning ground floor taverne is the ideal locale for a post-work apéritif and some social networking with Glasgow’s upwardly mobile young professionals, before heading to the restaurant upstairs to dine, where the rustic Louis XVI décor works well due to the sheer scale of the huge room. Gary Rhodes-trained executive chef Mark Stocks’ Scottish/European-influenced menu, makes extensive use of locally-sourced seasonal produce to great effect.

After dinner, the terrace beneath the portico is the perfect place to end a Scottish summer evening with a cognac and cigar. www.citation-glasgow.com/

SIP

THE CORINTHIAN CLUB Even by Glasgow’s high architectural standards, The Corinthian Club is impressive. The huge domed ceiling does echo, so if you’re seeking calmness and tranquility this place will not be your thing. With five floors of dining, drinking, gambling and clubbing, Corinthian is a destination venue unto itself, and a fun place to play the tables and party into the wee small hours. Every weekend DJ’s play an eclectic mix of deep & commercial house, laced with a touch of nu disco, accompanied by live sax and percussion on Saturday nights. www.thecorinthianclub.co.uk/ THE SPIRITUALIST A cool crowd frequents this excellent bar - which is cleverly divided from its dining room, so both are together but breathe individually with neither dominating - presided over by a team of expert bartenders which is passionate about mixology. When I visited, bartender Sebastian took great delight in telling me how they’d just created a cocktail for the anniversary of the Trojan War, before recommending signature concoction, Off the Peat’n Track, which was a blend of Tamdhu and Talisker single malt whiskies with melon liquer and a pinch of salt. www.thespiritualistglasgow.com/ THE POT STILL No trip to Scotland would be complete without rolling up your sleeves and getting jostled along the bar of a traditional public house. Always crowded, The Pot Still (named after the first whisky stills) is a fine choice for a pint of beer or a single malt before heading off to one of the surrounding area’s many theatres. Choose from hundreds of whiskies and rub shoulders with the cosmopolitan clientele. You might find a seat if you’re lucky, but there’s more chance of seeing a wild haggis, especially if you’ve had one for the road! www.thepotstill.co.uk/ ROGANO This long-established 1930s venue and the oldest surviving restaurant in Glasgow, was refitted in the same Art Deco style as the great Cunard liner, Queen Mary, which was built on the Clyde. Close to the city’s best shopping, Rogano is the perfect place to weigh anchor and enjoy a glass of chilled French cuvée or a Smoke on the Clyde cocktail in its Oyster Bar, before sauntering off to purchase something gorgeous. Meanwhile in Rogano’s smart dining room, the finest salmon, langoustines, scallops, lobster and halibut are faultlessly prepared and presented in classic style. www.roganoglasgow.com/ METROPOLITAN Boasting an indoor terrace and a fantastic cocktail menu, Metropolitan is positively throbbing on the weekends. We went off-piste with a dirtily distinguished Old Fashioned with Auchentoshan Three Wood cocktail, which the barman concocted on the spot. A large balcony restaurant upstairs looks out over the courtyard and sparkling lights of the Merchant Square below. Home to a craft market at weekends, the square really comes alive on a Saturday night when Glasgow's party crowd hits town. www.metropolitan-bar.com/

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THE CORINTHIAN CLUB

THRILL ROOM @ ROX - DIAMONDS & THRILLS 56

SPEND

ROX - DIAMONDS & THRILLS Diamonds are a girl’s best friend, so if it’s the four C’s you seek then you must visit ROX. Founded by Kyron Keogh and Grant Mitchell in 2002, this award-winning British luxury jeweller, produces inspired pieces and retails fine designer watches from five plush stores in Northern cities. All feature a VIP “thrill room” (pictured)- a lavish lounge for audiences with clients to peruse jewels in private, over a glass of chilled Laurent-Perrier. www.rox.co.uk/

GLORIOUS CLOTHING

Glasgow is a city which is well and truly in love with vintage clothing. From mohair knits and brogues at trendy vegan hangouts, to jewel-encrusted ball gowns at one of the city's many emporiums, there are plenty of vintage and pre-loved stores worth a look-in. If you're a fashion lover, bargain hunting or looking for a rare find, Glorious is your go-to place. This Ruthven Lane favourite isn’t so much authentic over-priced vintage, as newer pre-loved, fashionista chic. Rummaging for an hour here can be a lot of fun, and you never know what you’ll find. www.facebook.com/GloriousSecondHandClothing

MONORAIL

In a music buying industry now dominated by iTunes and music streaming sites, and a time when even digital album sales have fallen, vinyl has bucked the trend. While CDs sit on shelves, vinyl supply is having a hard time keeping up with demand. It may not have seemed possible a decade ago, but records are back and Monorail is a dream for vinyl lovers, boasting a wide range of limited edition releases and one-off finds - not to mention the odd Glasgow music royal playing a low-key set or discreetly browsing the racks. www.monorailmusic.com

FIREWORKS STUDIO

A few short steps from Glasgow School of Art is a bijou pottery oasis. FireWorks is an urban collective, home to six ceramicists, including Garnet McCulloch. There’s a certain thrill to meeting potters in their own studio, and to know that you’re speaking with the artists whose hands crafted the pieces on display. Take away a tiny work of Glaswegian art from a living, breathing master potter. http://fireworkspots.com/

THE MODERN INSTITUTE

Founded in 1997 and located mid-way between Trongate and the Clyde, the simplicity of The Modern Institute’s white-walled spaces - brainchild of Toby Webster, a key figure in the Scottish art world - allows the work of 42 international contemporary artists including Urs Fischer, Martin Boyce, Jim Lambie, Richard Wright, Cathy Wilkes and Simon Starling - to be optimally and expertly showcased to viewers and collectors alike. www.themoderninstitute.com/

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Penthouse Suite King George, Athens

Terms & conditions apply. Hyatt ™ and Grand Hyatt ™ names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

SIZZLING SUMMER AT GRAND HYATT DOHA .

Take advantage of our summer deals available this season between 6 June until 8 September 2016*.

Rooms & Suites:

33% • •

discount on the daily rates

Room can accommodate up to two children, under the age of 12.

Offer is valid for a minimum stay of 3 nights.

Villas:

30% • •

discount on the daily rates

Villas vary between two, three and four bedrooms.

Offer is valid for a minimum stay of 2 nights.

In-house guests receive a 20% discount on all Jaula Spa treatments, laundry services, food and beverages (excluding room service, retail products, and tobacco). *The above offers are subject to hotel availability. *Blackout dates apply during Eid periods.

FOR RE SE RVATION S A N D M O R E IN FORMAT I O N, CA L L 4 4 4 8 123 4 . H YAT T. YO U ’R E MO R E T HAN WELCO M E . doha.grand.hyatt.com Facebook/GrandHyattDoha doha.grand@hyatt.com

In spite of the country's much publicised financial

woes, the tourist industry has largely shrugged-off Greece's economic dramas and, conversely, benefited from a massive surge in international visitors in search of a cultural, memorable, value-for-money vacation. Visiting Greece has always been a complete, all-encompassing atmospheric holiday. Few countries can compare with the collective experience of Greek food, music and weather, together with its charismatic people, historic sites, stunning beaches and clear waters. The jewel in Greece’s tourist crown is invariably Athens, one of the most beautiful and important cities in the world. Few sites can compare with its spectacular Acropolis, together with the city's wealth of extraordinary ancient relics and museums. Marry these with funky bars and galleries, a booming culinary scene, jumping music culture and a flourishing artistic underbelly, and you have the makings of a pulsating city break in incredible surroundings. Athens offers something for everyone

– locals, tourists, young, old, students, fashionistas, collectors, shoppers and international jet-setters alike.

Perfectly located at the epicentre of the Greek capital – presiding over Syntagma and Parliament in the middle of the famous constitutional square – is the King George hotel, the younger, more stylish sister to Grande Bretagne next door. These days the view across Syntagma Square may be obscured by tear gas after the latest round of volatile demonstrations, but it’s all part of a long tradition of protest. The King George offers a front-row seat for observers of Greece’s continuing dramas acted out on its iconic square, as well as visitors to the capital who like to be in the heart of the action.

Formerly a royal palace and briefly a prime ministerial residence, the King George gained fame from the 1950s onwards for its superstar clientele, hosting a pantheon of stage and screen stars including Grace

June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 61

Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Frank Sinatra. But it’s the sense of serenity and unruffled order – once through its massive metal doors from the street – which is unique to a hotel in such a central location. Even when the King George is running at 100 percent occupancy, you’d never know it, such is the level of calm and Athenian class that permeates its majestic walls. In stark contrast to its slightly more brash hospitality sibling up the road, the King George has a unique, upscale, boutique-like atmosphere, skillfully combined with a tasteful, contemporary edge. Staying at Grande Bretagne and King George are two very different experiences, and I can now understand why more discreet and discerning travellers visiting Athens insist on the more bijou and intimate of the two properties.

Few world-class hotels are able to successfully pull-off classic style, grand gestures, sophisticated surroundings, modern touches and personal service all at the same time. Fewer still located in the center

of a bustling, cosmopolitan capital city, where genuine warmth and attention to detail are so easily lost in the hectic comings and goings of an urban hospitality hub.

From the moment I pulled-up outside the King George, it’s obvious that it’s no ordinary five-star. The tone was set when I entered the building into a stunning neo-classical lobby, festooned with Murano chandeliers and hung with contemporary works by cutting-edge artists. As I signed the registration form, an almost luminous, pixelated David Bowie collage caught my eye which, in any other formal hotel lobby – bedecked with columns and antique furniture – would have looked dreadfully out of place. In the lobby of King George however, the Pop Art-inspired piece by Joe Black looked wholly at home in its lavish surroundings, a testament to renowned Greek architect Alexandros K. Samaras who, together with local artisans, carried-out the renovations to the building just over a decade ago, returning the hotel to its original splendour while enhancing its features with chic touches.

June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 63

The doormen smiled warmly, greeting me like a long-standing returning guest. The front desk staff were friendly, attentive, engaged and helpful. Porters moved my luggage around the building inconspicuously. Housekeeping knew my surname and how to pronounce it immediately after I’d checked-in.

Telephone operators were patient, mannered and spoke perfect English, waiting on the line to ensure that my Wi-Fi was working and I had everything I needed. It was clear from the get-go that my visit to the King George was going to be exceptional, and my stay in the hotel's spectacular 350m2 penthouse suite a write-home-about experience.

As one would expect of hotel accommodation in which Madonna and Beyoncé (amongst others) have slumbered, King George’s Penthouse Suite is quite literally show-stopping. Yet it’s capacious, formal, classical layout, regal furnishings and acres of marble flooring, give way to deluxe creature comforts which take the edge off the enormous floor-plan and

embrace its lucky inhabitants like a warm, oversized cashmere blanket, providing supreme and decadent comfort, infused with a delicate sense of style. Whilst outwardly showy, proper and stately, behind the gilt, silk and satin exterior lies an apartment-like relaxation zone begging guests to unpack, scatter their possessions and make themselves at home. This wasn’t what I had been expecting at all, and I honestly felt like I belonged just fifteen minutes after stepping out of the airport taxi in front of the hotel – which is a rarity for such grand lodgings.

Filling the entire ninth floor of the hotel, with direct lift access, the rooftop two-bedroom suite is impressive but not ridiculously overpowering. The designers have done a great job to not make the large space feel impersonal. The suite’s sizeable (but not obnoxiously vast) lounge, with ample seating for ten guests, boasts an open fireplace at its center and is dotted with original 19th-century antiques and paintings. Off the lounge, a large dining room with a huge, round glass

June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

table can comfortably seat eight. Two tranquil bedrooms, each with a fireplace and en-suites (the master with a huge marble tub), are well separated from each other. There are no feeble intercommunicating doors or thin walls in this suite. In every aspect it’s a beautifully proportioned, well laid out, two-bedroom full-service penthouse pad, complete with a service entrance for discreet room-service deliveries and a butler’s kitchen.

The suite’s pièce de résistance is, without doubt, the sprawling outdoor terrace, large private swimming pool and ten-person Jacuzzi, all on eye-level with the Parthenon. Large enough to comfortably host a cocktail soirée for sixty, a seated al fresco dinner for thirty or a wild pool-party, its majesty and glamour cannot be properly illustrated by any photograph.

Seeing is genuinely believing. To be able to luxuriate in a private swimming pool, eye-to-eye with one of the world’s most iconic monuments, makes the Penthouse Suite at the King George one of the most unique and inimitable hotel rooms in the world.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in the Penthouse Suite in May 2016.

In June and July 2016 the average nightly rate for the Penthouse Suite is EUR 6,600 inclusive of buffet breakfast, round-trip airport limo transfers and taxes. www.kinggeorgeathens.com 66

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CULTUREDCHAT WITH LYDIA FORTE AT JUST 28 YEARS OF AGE, LYDIA FORTE IS AN UP-AND-COMING HOSPITALITY FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH. THE LUMINARY DAUGHTER OF HOTEL BARON SIR ROCCO FORTE, THE YOUNG BUSINESSWOMAN AND HEIRESS HAS ALREADY TAKEN CHARGE OF BAR AND RESTAURANT DEVELOPMENT AT ROCCO FORTE HOTELS. ASHLEE STARRATT TALKED TO THE ENTREPRENEURIAL INGÉNUE ABOUT CUISINE, CAREER AND LEGACY.

The Forte name tops the echelons of the luxury hotel market. Growing up in the spotlight of this industry, were you certain early on that you would take up the family business?

Forte in Italian means strong. What are your top three strengths that have allowed you to excel in your position of Bar and Restaurant Development Manager for Rocco Forte Hotels?

No, we grew up with the business as part of dinnertime conversation etc. But my father was very clever never to pressure us into going into the business. When I finished university I knew I wanted to work in restaurants because I was passionate about the culinary world – bars, food, design etc. I started as a waitress and ended up managing a restaurant. Only after this did I join Rocco Forte Hotels. But probably, somewhere in the back of my mind, I knew that if I wanted to go into the family business it would be a good path.

My sister and I are both young, so hopefully we bring a youthful perspective to the business. We’re more in line with new trends, have time to research what’s going on around us, and are social media savvy.

Secondly, I love working with people and in teams, and thrive off of group discussion and brainstorming.

This business is all about people – you have to understand your customer, but also be able to get the best out of those you work with. Our teams of people are the front line of communication to the guest and unless they believe in something it will never be executed correctly or communicated properly. Thirdly, the business is run by a family, so we have a huge passion for what we’re doing. Our names are above the doors of the hotels, so we really care about what we’re offering and how well our visions are delivered.

You studied modern history at Oxford, attended culinary school at Leith’s and earned your MBA from INSEAD. As a young hotel heiresses you and your sister Irene share an exceptional skill for business. What’s the best advice your father, Sir Rocco Forte, gave you when it comes to work ethic?

The best advice he gave me was to learn the business from the ground upwards, and know the details, since hospitality is all in the detailing. Then, from his example, work hard and focus on what you’re doing.

He always reminds me to constantly continue to push for things that you want to change - otherwise they simply don’t happen. Suggesting a direction to our teams, or setting up a new project, is totally useless without the follow-through.

You’ve paid your dues starting out as a maître’d at The Wolseley and waitressing at HIX Soho.

How important was it for you to have experience of working your way up through the ranks?

It was one of the most important things. Now I know what may be expected of a restaurant or bar, but also what the practical limitations might be on implementing change. I also think it helps for others in the business to know that I have experience in what I’m doing, not least it helps people buy into my vision.

Pierre Koffman Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

Marianne Faithfull

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller Peter Blake Danny La Rue

The Beatles Sam Smith Marco Pierre White Nigel Havers

Eartha Kit Imelda Staunton

Kenneth Halliwell

Joe OrtonPeter CookElton John

Paloma Faith Coco Chanel Beryl Cook

Francis Bacon

Frankie Howard

Dudley Moore

Lucien Freud Diana Judi Dench General de Gualle

Ella Fitzgerald Janis Joplin

Laurence Olivier

Edward Heath Cleo Laine

Stephen Fry Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution Since 1927 Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant & Club Privé

L’ Escargot Depuis 1927

Monday to Sunday: All day until 1am

• 48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

When guests choose a Rocco Forte property, they’re after a boutique hotel experience something that they can’t find anywhere else.

How do the brand’s food and beverage concepts mirror this?

We try and appeal to the local market, so each restaurant and bar is unique, tailored to the city it’s in, and individual in its food and service offerings. Also, because we are still a relatively small company, I can personally visit every restaurant and bar and develop the details of the concept with our local teams – there’s no copy and paste. For example, we just launched Sophia’s at The Charles hotel in Munich. The concept was developed around the botanical gardens next door and the beautiful terrace we have (the hotel is in a very green area), with lots of dishes and cocktails utilising fresh herbs, spices, vegetables and fruits. The restaurant has really been created for locals.

We like the restaurants and bars in our hotels to be a local meeting place and reference point for the city.

does the city need? Who is our target audience? Is there a niche we can fill? I then look at our strengths and capabilities. We work with Michelin-starred, Italian chef, Fulvio Piernagelini, and often produce Italian food – either based on a specific region of Italy, or, more broadly, Mediterranean food - because I know we can execute it exceptionally well and authentically.

Where I see a market needs something more specific - like in Shanghai where we’re opening a hotel in January 2018 and we must have a Chinese restaurant - I’ll always get expert advice, since I want to make sure that everything we do, we do it very well and are respectful of the local tradition and expertise.

In a world of Instagram foodies and cultured travellers, everyone’s a critic when it comes to what’s on their plate. What would you say are the most palate-pleasing trends at the moment and do you conform to them or prefer to break new ground?

Seasonal and local produce has been a trend for a long time, but that’s something I would never compromise on. More than that now, there is a strong push towards foods that are good for you, but still delicious. At the moment, MY FATHER ALWAYS REMINDS ME I’m concentrating on food TO CONSTANTLY CONTINUE TO that’s fresh and light,

You’ve spearheaded the revamps of Irene at Florence’s Hotel Savoy and La Banca at Hotel de Rome. What’s your process when it comes to conceptualising a new vision for a restaurant?

My process starts with market research. What

PUSH FOR THINGS THAT I WANT TO CHANGE - OTHERWISE THEY SIMPLY DON’T HAPPEN.

IRENE, SIR ROCCO AND LYDIA FORTE June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 71

especially vegetables and fish.

In Florence, we have launched Irene at The Savoy named after my grandmother who was a superb Italian cook. Fulvio Pierangelini developed a Tuscan menu with a fresher, lighter edge – Tuscan cuisine can often be very heavy, filled with fried food and lots of bread. We serve traditional Tuscan dishes with a feminine touch and have introduced a variety of lighter soups and fresh vegetable dishes. In the dining room nothing is too formal. This is another trend that I like at the moment - people want to feel relaxed when they dine out, and should be able to wear a dress and heels or jeans and a t-shirt without feeling out of place.

What new Rocco Forte properties are planned and what can a discerning guest look forward to from their culinary offerings?

style. We’ll also create a rooftop bar boasting spectacular views of Shanghai.

Throughout the Rocco Forte group’s eleven luxury properties, which food and beverage concept was the most challenging to execute and why?

In Jeddah we’ll have an Arabic Mediterranean restaurant on the rooftop called Aubergine. Finding the talent to work in the outlet and prepare the food has been hard since securing work visas can be difficult.

Also, since Levant food and Arabic Mediterranean is a cuisine the locals know and understand very well, we have to execute it extremely well. I don’t want ours to be just another Lebanese restaurant. So a lot of thought has gone into the style of offerings (we broadened it to Arabic Mediterranean to be able to offer slightly more diverse dishes), the setting of the restaurant with its amazing views, and the quality of the food. I’m working closely with a consultant Lebanese chef to ensure that the food is exquisite.

We’re on the cusp of launching a hotel in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, that will house seven different outlets, with restaurants ranging from an Argentinean steakhouse to an Arabic Mediterranean restaurant.

Following that, we’re launching a hotel in Shanghai in As a Londoner, where’s your go-to place when early 2018. We’re currently developing those concepts you want to escape prying eyes and enjoy a now, but we’ll definitely little privacy? Apart have a Chinese from home, of restaurant and an Italian course.

THIS BUSINESS IS ALL ABOUT all-day dining concept It’s easy to hide in PEOPLE – YOU HAVE TO with a more osteria London amongst the

UNDERSTAND YOUR CUSTOMER, BUT ALSO BE ABLE TO GET THE BEST OUT OF THOSE YOU WORK WITH.

THE CHARLES HOTEL, MUNICH

LA BANCA AT HOTEL DE ROME

HOTEL SAVOY, FLORENCE

BALMORAL, EDINBURGH

72 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

hustle and bustle, and avoid bumping into people because it’s so big! I live in Chelsea and work in Mayfair, so anywhere further afield. Soho has fun and often extremely good restaurants with niche and unique concepts which are always worth trying. Bao only serves its namesake steamed buns. Bubbledogs for hotdogs and champagne. Duck & Rice is a Chinese gastropub by Alan Yao. Kitty Fisher’s in Shepherd’s Market is one of my favourites because the food is wonderful and the setting is so cozy. Ruth Rogers of The River Café has been an remarkable culinary visionary, offering authentic and high-quality Italian food, in a clean, beautiful space, which somehow has remained contemporary since the 1980’s.

You’ve been working full time for your father’s company for the last two years. Do you see yourself carrying on the legacy of the Forte brand into the future, or are there business ventures of your own you plan to pursue?

From Florence to Frankfurt, one of the hallmarks of Rocco Forte hotels are their locations in the heart of the world’s cultural capitals. No two properties are alike. In terms of guest experience, how does each strive to reflect their surroundings?

My aunt Olga Polizzi is Director of Design; she founded the company with my father. She often uses local artists or furniture or fabric designers in order to really capture the local setting. The buildings themselves are often historic buildings, seeping with the culture of the city they’re in. I’ve worked with local galleries to showcase local artists in many of our outlets. We also always want the people of the city to use the restaurants and hotels as well as guests - whether for celebrations, meetings, or casual gatherings with friends – this brings a local feel to the outlets. Our concierges are also amazing at ensuring our guests experience the best of the city - so whilst we bring the city into the hotel, we also send our guests out to experience the best of the city. As a family we travel to our hotels all the time, so we know the cities really well and try and offer the best of each to our guests.

Never say never – there are lots of ideas in my head for projects I could imagine starting further down the line. But I definitely see myself working full-time for the business and in the longer term I would always want to be heavily involved, no matter what other projects I OUR NAMES ARE ABOVE THE might have on the side DOORS OF THE HOTELS, SO WE in the future.

REALLY CARE ABOUT WHAT WE’RE OFFERING AND HOW WELL OUR VISIONS ARE DELIVERED.

Rocco Forte Hotels carries the weight of its name and heritage behind it. As a young businesswoman,

what fresh perspectives do you bring to the table to make sure its legacy and services remain relevant and sought after?

Food & Beverage is a great entry point for new trends in hospitality. For example, Rocco Forte Nourish is something I’m developing with my sister, partnering with local nutritionist personalities across the group to develop healthy menus, healthy mini-bar and nourishing breakfast buffet offerings – basically to be able to offer access to healthy food and drink at all touchpoints of the hotel. Then of course, we both push the importance of social media presence, and I’ve always attempted to market our F&B outlets separately to the hotels. Traditionally, hoteliers have seen F&B as a guest service rather than an opportunity to draw locals into your hotel; this is something I have tried to do. Also, we’re always happy to try new things, travelling to and eating in unusual places, so that gives me new ideas that my father might not necessarily have come across.

is good, that’s reflected in TripAdvisor. I do monitor our standing for restaurants because today’s customer does check TripAdvisor - it’s a fact – and because it gives me an idea of what we are offering in terms of quality. Though I also think that people know how to read between the lines a bit. I don’t think one review is as dramatic as make-or-break, but it’s the overall impression that’s left by a number of reviews that matters.

Who are the notable culinary superstars on Rocco Forte’s payroll? Any Michelin-stars under their aprons?

Well, of course, Fulvio Pierangelini - he’s our Well, of course, Fulvio Pierangelini - he’s our Creative Director of Food and had two Michelin stars at his last restaurant which is now closed - Gambero Rosso in San Vincenzo, Tuscany. That’s where we first met him as we have a family home nearby. Also, Jeff Bland and Brian Grigor at the Balmoral in Edinburgh who have recently achieved the latest of their Michelin stars – 13 years in a row now - at Number These days, when a TripAdvisor review can make or break a property’s reputation, how fast One. We also have Mark Hix at Brown’s - not a have hoteliers had to adapt their marketing and Michelin-starred chef, but nevertheless a big name.

Though, of course, all customer service our executive chefs are strategies to brilliant and focus on accommodate the AS A FAMILY WE TRAVEL TO the extremely hard job digital deluge?

OUR HOTELS ALL THE TIME, SO of managing big teams, Honestly, if your service

WE KNOW THE CITIES REALLY WELL AND TRY AND OFFER THE BEST OF EACH TO OUR GUESTS.

74 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

running extremely busy kitchens open 24/7, and delivering excellent food, day in and day out.

You oversee all food and beverage development and performance across the company’s portfolio of properties. How do you maintain your energy? Walk us through a typical work day.

catching up on emails I’ve missed whilst travelling. I also thrive off diversity, so I try and work on a couple of projects at a time, otherwise I tend to get a bit bored and lose motivation - though mostly there’s no choice about working on more than one project at once!

As someone who lives, sleeps and breathes Every day is a bit different. A typical work week is five-star culinary concepts for a living, we want travelling to one of our hotels on Mondays and to know where’s your favourite London Tuesdays, a different one each week, sometimes for a bit longer. When I travel, I pack in a lot; I try something hole-in-the-wall take-away or street food spot?

Matcha lattés with almond milk from Raw Press on new in the city to keep up-to-date with new trends – Dover Street (and also their raw lunch salads), pizzas but then of course have to experience our own from La Delizia in Chelsea on the street I grew up, and offerings as much as possible, squeeze in meetings jamon sandwiches from Fernandez & Wells in Soho. and do emails via my iPhone.

In London, I wake up at 7am, have a gym session Of all the countries you’ve been to during your and head into the office on Jermyn Street. I like to travels, which regional cuisine do you most organise meetings outside of the office at our hotel, draw inspiration from when it comes to Brown’s, to see the service and offerings there as conceptualising a new menu or restaurant idea much as possible - but also to create diversity in the for Rocco Forte Hotels? day which keeps me focused. We have an open-plan Mostly Italian, but then of course we often develop office, so other people keep me energised and concepts around a local cuisine, and anything goes if motivated with questions, demands and meetings. I we have more than one restaurant. I personally love thrive off interaction with other people so like to Japanese, Chinese resolve things in person (Szechuan & Cantonese), - though of course Indian, Spanish and there are lots of emails.

I DON’T THINK ONE TRIPADVISOR Peruvian foods. Basically When I’m in London I REVIEW IS AS DRAMATIC AS everything! spend a lot of time

MAKE-OR-BREAK, BUT IT’S THE OVERALL IMPRESSION THAT’S LEFT

BY A NUMBER THAT MATTERS.

BROWNS HOTEL

HOTEL ASTORIA, ST. PETERSBURG

HOTEL DE RUSSIE, ROME

HOTEL DE ROME, BERLIN

THE JET SET The rise of private jet travel has officially surpassed the cushioned crust of the mega-wealthy upper classes, the super-famous, and Presidential hopefuls on the campaign trail. With affordable, all-business-class airlines taking to the skies, a new level of flying experience is quickly becoming akin to being part of a secret air travel fraternity. French all-business-class carrier, La Compagnie, will effortlessly shuttle you between London, Paris and New York in the lap of luxury. Hanging out in a premium-class, upstairs lounge on an A380 feels a lot like a private members’ club in the sky – while several full-service commercial carriers, including multi-award-winning Qatar Airways, operate a select number of scheduled flights with all first-class cabins…which is pretty damn exclusive. Nowadays, an increasing number of private jet companies are making their services much more accessible to mortals meaning that astute travellers can fly on a private

FOUR SEASONS JET

aircraft for the cost of an economy ticket (or less!) if they know how, and where, to shop.

Last year, premium hospitality brand, Four Seasons, began offering its top-tier clientele carefully-curated itineraries, flying between up to ten destinations on a luxuriously-appointed custom-designed Boeing 757 Four Seasons Jet. With just over fifty plush, Italian leather seats as opposed to the aircraft’s standard 233, Four Seasons' private jet passengers are served Dom Perignon throughout and if the cabin temperature’s too nippy, they’re swathed in Mongolian cashmere throws.

More recently, premium resort group Aman started inviting its loyal clientele on one or two-week-long private jet ‘expeditions’ to its most luxurious Asian properties, touching-down at three or four locations with no more than a dozen passengers aboard a Gulfstream. Some Aman private jet tours are tailored to just eight 76 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

individuals, while groups of less than ten are transported through the skies in a strikingly stylish Italian Piaggio P180 Avanti 11 plane. You can be sure that Aman's guests are obnoxiously pampered while in the air, yet places start at a not-completely-unreasonable GBP 20,000 per person. Yes, this is a lot of money, but it's certainly not outrageous – especially when you take into account that all flights and suites are included in the price, and you’ll most likely be one of a single-digit group, waited on hand and foot by Aman’s local hotel managers and highly-experienced concierges throughout.

We’re hearing about private jet travel much more often in daily life, so it’s to be expected that more premium hospitality brands will jump on the elite tour bandwagon before the year is out – not least because so many private charter companies are actively pushing their services towards the aspirational upper-middle classes. Private jets

FOUR SEASONS JET CABIN

are gradually being seeped into our subconscious travel psyche, like luxury scents added to the air-con of Las Vegas mega-hotels to entice guests to spend and gamble more.

In a world where flying business class has become as commonplace as wearing a handmade suit or flashy watch (how many of us know at least one person who owns a watch worth a month’s salary?), successful and busy individuals for whom flying in business in the norm, are now looking to up the ante of their luxury flying experience. This means moving up a tier to first-class, or increasing their comfort further by opting for super-premium products like Emirates' first class cabins, or Etihad's The Residence - an über-apartment-within-a-plane where passengers have their own bedroom, bathroom and small, private lounge. Etihad even provides a personal, Savoy-trained butler to passengers travelling in The Residence. But whilst The Residence has fast become a hit (having Nicole Kidman as an endorser doesn’t hurt!), there's a fine line between parting with GBP 20,000 for two

passengers to cross the Atlantic one-way in The Residence, or even parting with GBP 5,000 for a first-class return, and chartering a private jet.

Savvy fliers have been pooling their travelling resources and flying privately for some time now, but today it’s happening much more often. This is especially true in the U.S. thanks to private jet companies like Surf Air, which Forbes called "One of America's most promising companies of 2015". Based on America's West Coast, Surf Air offers unlimited private plane flights between more than a dozen California and Nevada cities (including L.A. and Las Vegas) for a one-time joining fee of USD 1,000 plus a membership fee of USD 1,950 per month. The subscription-based airline operates up to 90 daily flights – any of which can be private to a member – and is rapidly growing its list of destinations. Surf Air passengers are greeted by a concierge, bypass airport security, get free

SURF AIR PLANE

parking and checked luggage, and board a plane within a few minutes of arriving at the airport. Though Surf Air's fleet may be single-engine turboprops with a lot less legroom than a Gulfstream, they’re private flights nonetheless and the cost is much more affordable. In the U.S. for starters, the Netflix model of unlimited usage for a fixed monthly subscription seems to be working for private jet travel – so much so that 400 people are waiting to join Surf Air (www.surfair.com). It’s former co-founder, Wade Eyerly, has recently joined Wheels Up, a private aviation business that sells memberships and on-demand flights, charging its customers USD 17,500 to join and USD 3,950 an hour to fly anywhere within the U.S. on short notice using larger, slightly more luxurious Beechcraft King Air 350i twin turboprop nine-seater aircraft (www.wheelsup.com).

For the less regular private jet user, (or for those whose schedules can accommodate a last-minute booking), a

handful of sites and private jet companies are following the lead of hotel websites, offering last-minute deals on unused inventory and empty legs. Empty legs are private jet flights returning aircraft back to base without the human cargo they’ve just ferried somewhere at full fare.

Because empty legs are just that - empty one-way flights the company earns a little bit of extra cash (it's already made its profit out of the full fare, outbound hire), while the consumer gets a cut-price private jet experience that includes the flexibility to show up 15 minutes before take-off, board, and fly.

British Uber-style phone app, Victor, allows you to book – at a fraction of the full fare cost – empty legs on executive jets that are idling when owners are not using them. (www.flyvictor.com). The empty legs advertised on www.privatefly.com include available one-way flights on the PrivateFly network and are updated daily with the

WHEELS UP PLANE CABIN

latest prices and empty legs. And even www.JetSuite.com – which flies to over 2,000 airports and provides upper-end private jet travel to a core market of high-flying business execs – aggregates private jet flights with empty seats to offer daily cut-price, next-day deals with the possibility to hire an entire six-seater plane for just over USD 500 one-way within the U.S. Like rail travel in the early decades of the 20th century, and its exclusive club cars aboard the Orient Express, we’ve entered the golden age of private jet transit. With subscription-based clubs becoming more widespread it may only be a matter of time before premium, commercial passengers start ditching cavernous, impersonal airports and double-decker jets en masse. in favour of VIP airfields and smaller planes. When it comes to gliding off to cultured getaway destinations, relaxation and refinement are the calling cards of the modern jet set.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

SKY BRIEF PRIVATE JETS FOR PETS Heathrow-based Airpets, the U.K.'s only pet relocation company with a full suite of facilities at London's biggest airport, has launched the country's first luxury air travel service, tailored to pampered animals and their doting owners - Kennel Club Class. Airpets uses a Cessna Citation Bravo jet to transport pet and owner together in the aircraft cabin to destinations throughout Europe and beyond. Of course private jet travel means you can always take your pet on the plane with you, but Airpets ensures that all the documentation is in perfect order. A larger Bombardier Challenger executive aircraft is available for longer distance flights. www.airpets.com/kennel-club-class

JETSMARTER A new American private transportation startup launched out of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, already has many frequent flyers Stateside calling it the Uber of private jet travel. Supported by the Saudi Royal family, rap mogul Jay-Z plus USD 50 million of venture-capital funding, what JetSmarter is doing so well, is combine three different flying services into a one-stop shop. Members are offered free scheduled JetShuttle flights, last-minute JetDeals and JetCharter chartered flights - all bookable via a single easy-to-use app. Annual members’ fees of USD 9,000 include unlimited free JetShuttle flights and, most recently, schedule-free flights within Europe with private aircraft winging between London, Paris, Nice and other locations. www.jetsmarter.com

THE PRICIEST AIRPORTS TO LAND A JET Owning and operating a jet is only half the cost for the privilege of flying in style and privacy at a moment's notice. Jet owners must continually pay for landing fees which can reach into the thousands every time time they touch down. This is why subscription-based private flying clubs such as Surf Air, and membership-based, private jet charter companies such as PrivateFly and JetSuite, are becoming increasingly popular.

The three most expensive airports to land a private jet are all in Japan. The priciest is Tokyo's Haneda Airport which handles 70 million passengers per year and charges USD 7,000 for the privilege of landing in the Japanese capital. Next up is Tokyo's Narita Airport which charges just under USD 6,000. Coming a close third, Kansai Airport in Osaka charges USD 5,500 to land. The most expensive airport to land your plane in the U.S. is New York’s La Guardia which charges a cool USD 4,000.

NEW GOOGLE TERMINAL OPENS In 2013, Google founders Larry Page, Sergey Brin and Eric Schmidt won approval to build a private USD 82 million terminal at Silicon Valley’s Mineta San Jose International Airport, catering to the numerous high-flying tech execs who use private jets like the rest of the population uses taxi-cabs. The new private terminal at Mineta isn’t entirely Google-owned and operated however – Blue City Holdings LLC (which operates the private aircraft of Page, Brin and Schmidt) is a significant investor, and is the Signature Flight Support facility's largest tenant, leasing 190k of the 250k square-feet of hangar space.

The new terminal revels in the kind of technology that Silicon Valley is known for - partnering with The Tech Museum of Innovation to showcase exhibits throughout the year. Passengers and crew – who mingle together pre-flight – can also take a load off in the Tech Garden, an outdoor botanical green lounge, adjacent to the terminal. www.signatureflight.com

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No Shoes Required Renowned for its happening waterfront parties, glamorous beach-club and boho-chic ambiance, Maçakızı should be on every cultured traveller’s holiday checklist. Dawn Gibson finds out why this exotic Aegean resort is still glittering after nearly 40 sultry Turkish summers.

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Perhaps no other country has stood at the cultural crossroads of history quite like Turkey – seat of the Ottoman Empire and a centuries-old hub for trade along the Silk Road. Cross Istanbul’s shimmering Bosphorus River and you have one foot in Europe and one in Asia…quite literally. A nation that has survived its share of tumultuous epochs, to this day Turkey and its people continue to stand strong in the face of recent adversity. Tourism relatively unshaken, the southern reaches of its Riviera remain steadfast as coastal enclaves, and a veritable playground for Europe’s elite. Most notably? The Bodrum Peninsula, home to iconic Maçakızı resort.

I

t’s a beautifully balmy morning at this hide-away of the rich and famous, the sunlight darting playfully across the sparkling blue bay. From the expansive balcony, lush greenery studded with bright, pink pops of bougainvillea waves welcomingly in the slight breeze, framing the stunning view of the Aegean Sea below. A series of terraces and decks form a jumbled procession down the hill towards the water, where

a sleek modern yacht and a traditional Turkish gulet bob a stone’s throw from one another - each an artefact of its time.

Welcome to Maçakızı. This swish boutique resort has for decades been a hot-spot for international travellers in search of an exclusive, upscale barefoot-luxury experience. It’s all about boho-chic comfort, effortless style and laid-back glamour - where ladies’ shoes are off but their toes are perfectly manicured and twinkling in the Mediterranean sun.

Models with over-sized shades and designer bikinis recline, draped elegantly over sun-loungers. DJs spin undulating house music and survey the scene as movers and shakers sip deluxe sunset cocktails in the open-air lounge. The dress-code is smart-casual with a nod to the latest seasonal trends - towering seventies-style wedge sandals, strategically ripped white jeans, matte pouts and a hint of sass – people stroll into the party as if they are walking off a yacht, because…well, they are. Known far and wide for its stylish waterfront parties, Maçakızı attracts its share of international A-listers and Istanbul’s rich and beautiful.

Recent guests have included Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, and if Beyoncé were to sashay her way across the sun-deck, no one would bat an eye. It’s that kind of place.

June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 83

We arrived in the early hours of the morning after catching a flight from London to Bodrum - the Turkish peninsula famous for its gorgeous beach resorts and buzzing nightlife.

A direct flight is just four hours from the U.K., Western Europe or the Middle East, making it an easy long-weekend destination. If you’re taking a non-direct flight via Istanbul, as we did, you’ll arrive at the domestic terminal but your luggage will come around the carousel at the international.

It’s not a hassle - the distance between terminals is five minutes - but it’s worth knowing in advance.

contemporary Turkish artists, fronted by floor-to-ceiling glass windows to take full advantage of the lush view. Leading off the lounge were two spacious bedrooms, each with a king-sized French bed, complete with en-suite bathrooms and walk-in wardrobes. A dreamy kind of peacefulness permeated, a ‘let’s kick our shoes off and really get comfortable’ vibe, enhanced by little touches such as a day-bed nook with its own special picture-window and a majlis-worth of comfy cushions, as well as a supremely relaxing rainfall shower accessorized with Acqua di Parma toiletries.

Maçakızı is on the north side of the Bodrum peninsula, in a little village called Türkbükü, roughly 40 kms from the airport and 22 kms from Bodrum’s city centre. We were met at the airport by the hotel valet and whisked away on a very comfortable 45-minute ride in a roomy Porsche Cayenne.

Owned by the same Turkish family since the late 1970s, Maçakızı was initially envisaged as a haven for writers, painters and other artists who drew inspiration from its illusive essence. With 53 rooms and 21 suites, these days its clientele is as likely to include an arthouse film director or fashion photographer, as the next Hemingway. An air of creative quirkiness gently saturates the atmosphere. An oversized Picasso print hangs in the bathroom off the bar, and a jumble of art and fashion-led coffee-table books are scattered throughout the open-air reception like Easter eggs for the cultured enthusiast.

Despite being tired upon arrival, it was hard not to be immediately impressed by the elegant simplicity of our luxe Sea View Villa Suite – home for the next three days. Reminiscent of a millionaire’s beach-house, the space was a capacious, cool haven of cream walls, minimalist wood furniture and works by

84 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

Waking up the first morning, I slipped on a plush robe and padded outside to the deck, which spanned the entire length of the suite. The view was nothing short of perfection – a dazzling panorama of gentle, deep blue sea, fringed by distant hills dotted with white villas. I could have sat there all day drinking in its calm, but I was keen to explore more of the surroundings. We ambled to the central restaurant for a buffet breakfast crafted with exquisitely fresh produce. The homemade granola with berries was notably scrumptious, as were the cinnamon fig rolls and herb cheese pastries – we nibbled on several different kinds before ordering omelettes from the egg station. Our hunger slaked, we made our way through the gardens, down the hill to the water’s edge, where an impressive sun-deck took pride of place, centred by a large, square al fresco bar, staffed with a small army of suave-looking, white-clad waiters. Maçakızı’s private boat was moored alongside – should the urge to go on a day-trip to the nearby Greek isles of Kos or Rhodes strike. We took up residence on two sun-loungers, devoting much of the day to the serious business of relaxation – books in hand and icy glasses within reach.

We could have rolled-over and slid straight into the azure-blue waters of the Aegean if we'd wanted to.

Dozing and watching the clouds drift, we noted the comings and goings on the bay – there was a high-society wedding planned for the weekend and well-heeled guests were arriving on a flotilla of yachts, ferried to the resort with their designer luggage in groups of twos and threes.

I’d considered wandering up to the spa for a traditional Turkish hammam but the people-watching was far too good, so I stayed put, casually glancing up from behind my sunglasses as a steady procession of bronzed glitterati sauntered past.

The sun set over an indulgent three-course dinner later that evening at Maçakızı’s well-regarded fine-dining restaurant.

It’s white linen-clad tables set up on an airy terrace, the cuisine was succulent Mediterranean with a strong emphasis on seafood. All dishes were beautifully cooked, well presented yet unpretentious. We favoured the juicy, pan-seared scallops with risotto-style potato and caper-raisin vinaigrette, and the butter-soft sea bass with a pepper-herb coulis, fennel and Kalamata olive salad.

The remainder of our stay was an easy pattern of ritual sun-worship and sunset drinks, punctuated by walks along the palm-lined promenade of Türkbükü in search of increasingly interesting flavours of ice cream (the mulberry and tangerine were our favourite finds), and returning to the comfortable sanctuary of our lavish villa by the sea.

To leave Maçakızı without experiencing one of its infamous parties would have been remiss, and, happily, we were lucky enough to catch one the evening before we flew out. As the sun sank deeper in the sky, the atmosphere on the sun-deck altered as the stars appeared – the relaxing day-time beat giving way to the sultrier pulse of night. The swimwear and sarongs were replaced with sharp Breton tops, crisp linen trousers and elegant sundresses.

Fine gold jewellery was on subtle display, curved about long swan-like necks, while ringed fingers arched delicately around the stems of wine glasses. We positioned ourselves on a plump sofa, ordering gin cucumber mules with a savage kick of fresh ginger, as the conversation flowed around us in half a dozen languages, the waiters milling about with platters of mezze. The cocktails were refreshingly good and it was hard to stop at just a few.

As the night shifted up a gear the dancing began in earnest, the deck transforming into a club lounge. As the moon rode the sky towards dawn, it was time for us to slip away to catch our flight, reluctantly leaving the revelers to continue ‘til day-break without us, our recollections of our time at the resort lingering, memories as tangible and fresh as the off-shore glow of a Turkish sunrise over Maçakızı. www.macakizi.com 86

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SPOTLIGHT Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the Taj Mahal and discovers that the iconic Indian wonder is even more spellbinding than the hype Photographs by Nicholas Chrisostomou

I have travelled a fair amount of the world, visited all seven continents, seen everything from indigenous settlements to the big five, gazed down on New York from the top of the Twin Towers and stood inside Gaudi’s dazzling Sagrada Familía in Barcelona. I like to think that little phases me these days. It may sound corny, but nothing quite prepared me for my maiden visit to the Taj Mahal, and my first glimpse of the shimmering, ivory marble mausoleum, built in 1631-1653 on the banks of the Yamuna River near Agra, by Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, to house the tomb of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

he Taj Mahal is an architectural gem you're taught about at school. It's probably the best-known building in the world, pretty much everyone grows-up aware of its existence and its story of love draws millions of visitors every year. So on the morning of my visit, I was as excited as anyone would be, when about to see one of the wonders of the modern world. But such is the Taj's reputation, the prospect of actually seeing it, for me, ran the risk of not living-up to the historical hype. I can tell you first hand that this is not the case. If you visit one historic monument in your lifetime, make sure it's the Taj Mahal. It's well worth the pilgrimage.

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Contrary to popular belief, it is relatively straightforward and stress-free to visit the Taj in one day, even if you want to spend three hours at the site, which is average. Unless you plan to spend a few days in Agra, there's really no need to stay in one of the pricey hotels close-by. An organised and resolute traveller can fly into New Delhi the night before, get a decent sleep, rise early, be driven straight to Agra at the

crack of dawn, tour the site in the morning, drive back, rest, and hop on a plane out of the heavily-polluted Indian capital that evening. Depending on the time you set off from New Delhi (and the competence of the person behind the wheel), the drive to Agra usually takes three hours. If you're staying in decent lodgings in New Delhi, it's a good idea to pre-order a hotel-packed lunch. The airport-style security at the Taj is pretty tight, and a number of items are banned, so leave big bags in your hotel or with your driver. Anything edible is not allowed in, so eat before you enter the complex.

Take bottled water.

To safeguard the Taj from further pollution damage, motorised vehicles are banned from within 500 metres of the complex, and the building is the subject of an ongoing cleaning program. Two of the minarets were scaffolded when I visited, and plans are afoot to clean the facade and dome at some stage during the next few years, so if securing the perfect photographic memory of your visit is vital, best check with the authorities what's being cleaned before you set-off.

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Of the three entrance gates (East, South and West) the East and West open earliest (dawn), and the West is closest to the main parking area and ticket office. The complex is closed on Fridays. I paid Rs 20 (25 pence) to be ferried by rickshaw to the ticket office. The entrance fee for a foreigner is Rs 750 (GBP 8). Arriving between 8am - 9am is best to avoid the crowds and miss the early morning rush. From 10am onwards tourists arrive by the coach load, in vast numbers and huge groups. You should aim to be in by 8.30am and out by 11am latest. I visited in January, which was perfect, but any of the winter months will do. The heat coupled with the amount of tourist traffic in the summer months are unbearable.

Subject to careful selection, hiring a guide to escort you around the site is a must, and an invaluable accessory to enjoy the place without being bogged-down by hours of pre-recorded waffle. Visiting the Taj Mahal is all about seeing, gazing and wondering. Not being plugged-in and told what to look at by a machine. Our guide, Vikas, was

eloquent, highly knowledgeable, professional and incredibly polite (+91 94585 01468), and a bargain at Rs 2,000 (roughly GBP 20). Plus he took lots of excellent snaps, freeing me up to look around and fully immerse myself in the magnificent splendour of it all. And astonishingly splendid it was.

Once I had bought my ticket, cleared security and was in Jilaukhana - the large, central arcaded forecourt - my eyes were inextricably drawn through Darwaza-i Rauza (“Gate of the Mausoleum”) towards the world-famous white marvel.

That first glimpse of the Taj will most likely stay with me for the rest of my days. From that moment on, my travelling companion and our tour guide barely heard a squeak out of me. I was quite literally spellbound, awestruck and virtually mute for the best part of an hour. As I ambled under the great gate - beneath its mammoth red sandstone edifice, upon which beautiful calligraphic inscriptions from the Qur’an invite believers into paradise - I felt as if I was passing from the harsh, real world, through a gateway into a tranquil place where beauty, time and peace standstill in perfect accord.

DARWAZA-I RAUZA

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The mausoleum itself is flanked by two virtually identical, imposing buildings, which in any other setting would standout. One is a mosque and the other an assembly hall. In front of the giant marble platform (upon which sits the Taj) is a large expanse of lovingly tendered, perfectly symmetrical Persian-style gardens, separated into sections by a variety of lawns, waterways and wide paths.

Roughly halfway between the gate and the mausoleum, on a platform above the central water channel, is what has become known as the Princess Diana Bench. Having made the long journey to Agra, I defy anyone to resist having their photo snapped here! I had to wait for a few minutes for the privilege to momentarily rest my posterior on the same slab of marble as Diana, but there was a sense of touristic achievement when I sat there. Not to mention a social media-worthy image, or two.

Understandably, access to the mausoleum platform is carefully controlled to avoid overcrowding and protect the main attraction, and shoe covers must be worn at all times (provided FOC). For me the extraordinarily memorable experience of visiting the Taj, lay in wondering around and exploring the entire site, not seeing a singular part, detail or treasure. It was all serene and stunning in different ways. Yes, the mausoleum contained wonderful floral mosaic designs using semi-precious stones, surrounded by intricately carved marble screens. And the inlaid stonework around the outside walls of the mausoleum was bewildering.

But there was literally majestic splendour at every turn, and each visitor to the Taj Mahal gleans his or her own personal memories of their visit to this glorious jewel in India’s crown. Even as I was virtually out of the door, I was looking back to catch my last, final glimpses, such is the silent beauty of this building that has captured hearts for generations, and truly captivated mine. www.tajmahal.gov.in June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 95

PYONGYANG

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN NORTH KOREA

BEYOND THE 38TH PARALLEL From its insular heart to the barbed-wire borders marking the no-man’s land of its DMZ, North Korea remains a world apart to its closest neighbours and a veritable mystery to the West. The allure of its enigma continues to draw speculation, as only a few intrepid tourists venture forth in an effort to understand the country and its people.

Greg Turnbull was one of them, trekking to Pyongyang for a rare glimpse into the hermit kingdom. Like Hotel California, he could check in any time he liked, but could he ever leave?

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n the Korean Peninsula the outside world ceases to exist above the 38th Parallel. Cut off in isolation and frozen in time is a country subject to countless rumours and propaganda, whose population has never used the internet, and where a meal with meat is a luxury. Welcome to North Korea - the hermit kingdom. A locale for the truly adventurous traveller, every interaction is an encounter with a mysterious culture that relatively few people on Earth have experienced. The only way to dispel (and affirm!) some of the myths of the Democratic People’s Republic is to see for yourself.

I had the idea of travelling to this strange country while chatting to an old college friend. We studied Russian together in 1984 when the Soviet Union existed and the Second Cold War was in its death throes, and we reminisced about how we’d probably never again experience such feelings of fear and excitement as when we were on placement in the USSR. “What about North Korea?” I said. We began by contacting one of the few agents dealing with such an June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 97

excursion, Koryo Tours, based in Beijing. The only way for tourists to get to the country is via China, as no other airlines fly in or out of Pyongyang. Once you book, you attend a ‘briefing’ at your Beijing agent’s office, where they tell you what you can and can't do once you cross the border. To get there you can fly in or out, take the train, or a combination of both. We chose to train in and fly out, which in retrospect was the best way, seeing as it provided us with one of the most frightening, exciting and unforgettable moments of my entire life.

The sleeper train from Beijing leaves in the evening and arrives at the Chinese border city of Dandong around 20 hours later. At this point you have to wait as the Chinese train uncouples and the North Korean train gets attached. At this moment my heart was in my mouth. In what Koryo Tours' director Nick Bonner described as "One of the world's last great frontiers", I waved goodbye to contact with the outside world as the train slowly clanked across the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge.

Around twenty North Korean soldiers got on the train at Sinuiju station and went through everyone's luggage. They seemed particularly interested in trying to find GPS devices which would be confiscated - but they didn't check pockets or clothing. Once done, the train moved on through the North Korean countryside towards the capital, Pyongyang.

“Cut off in isolation and frozen in time is a country subject to countless rumours and propaganda, whose population has never used the internet, and where a meal with meat is a luxury.”

The first thing I noticed, as a smartphone user, was that as soon as we were on the bridge there was no internet access. My heart was pounding in my chest. As the train shuffled onto North Korean soil, I peered out of the window onto a world that time forgot. It was as if I had time-travelled 50 years into the past. As we pulled into Sinuiju station, men were digging on the tracks, while others on the embankment held ropes snaking under the spades of those below, like a human version of a mechanical digger. A van stood

RYUGYONG HOTEL

nearby, blaring revolutionary music from speakers on its roof.

Bright red Korean banners were everywhere with slogans extolling the virtues of the regime. It was like something out of a movie, and I wished I could have taken a video, but not even photographs are allowed in railway stations.

Heralding our arrival was the iconic monolith of the Ryugyong Hotel - a surreal pyramid structure which looks like a futuristic spaceship. Construction on the 3,000+ room hotel - set to be the biggest in the world - has been in the works since 1987. Pulling into Pyongyang station, I was met by my guide. I was travelling with a friend so we had two guides. Both were female, one around 30 years old and the other a trainee of 18.

It's illegal to travel freely in North Korea - you must always be accompanied - and for the next ten days, except when I was in bed, the guide never left my side. For the rest of the holiday, I knew I’d have absolutely no contact with anyone else on the planet.

We exited the station, boarded a mini-bus and zipped through the

YANGAKKDO HOTEL

KUMSUSAN PALACE

relatively traffic-free streets to our accommodation, a throwback to the 1970's called the Yangakkdo Hotel, set on its own small island in the middle of the River Taedong. Everything is organised for you on a trip to North Korea; check in was quick, and we found ourselves up on the 42nd floor in our 1970's room, complete with gramophone radio.

Pyongyang at night is an alien place. As it gets darker, there’s barely a flicker of light coming from the apartment blocks. We had binoculars but could only make out very dim illuminations, and after 11pm it seemed like all the city's lights had been switched off. We were essentially imprisoned in the hotel, since our guides are informed by reception staff should we have attempted to go out at night. We had chatted to our guides over dinner, who had a full itinerary for our ten-day visit. Every hour of every day was accounted for in detail and they were eager to show us as much as possible.

North Korea. The people treat their leaders - living and dead - with the greatest of respect. The museums and monuments to the country's leaders are stunning, with meticulous attention to detail.

The marble pillars and enormous bronze statues are simply breathtaking, particularly in a country with a reputation for being impoverished. Two massive statues of the late statesmen dominate the enormous hall. I took my cue from my guide who bowed deeply, then exited right. I was then led to two enormous, dark halls, where the embalmed bodies of the deceased leaders were on full view, contained within large glass cases. The temperature in the room was close to freezing. The bodies were suited, their faces and hands the only visible skin.

The entire experience was surreal in the extreme.

“As the train shuffled onto North Korean soil, I peered out of the window onto a world that time forgot. It was as if I had time-travelled 50 years into the past.”

The following morning after breakfast, we set off for the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, Kim Il Sung's old home, and a tribute to the country's two revered late leaders. When visiting these places, you’re expected to treat the occasion with the utmost reverence. We’d been urged to bring Euro coins, as we had to buy flowers at nearby stalls and place them at specific places near the monuments, turn round, walk slowly back, then face the statue and bow deeply. You’re told in the pre-trip briefing that if you aren't prepared to do this, don't even think of travelling to

On that first day, I asked the older guide about religion in the country, and she said it doesn’t exist; instead North Korean people adhere to the philosophy of ‘self-determination’. I was fascinated that an entire country had managed to shun every religion, but as time went on, it was clear that their leaders were their gods. This would eventually manifest itself in a truly astonishing outburst from the younger guide towards the end of the trip.

Our itinerary included a trip to the Ryugyong Health Complex.

When I went for a swim, the younger guide followed me.

Bizarrely, she sat on a chair at the end of my lane, watching me the whole time. Afterwards, when we met up with the others, I saw June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 101

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“It's illegal to travel freely in North Korea - you must always be accompanied - and for the next ten days, except when I was in bed, the guide never left my side.”

that my travelling companion had a wild-eyed look on her face - she thought she was going to be electrocuted during her treatment after having bare wires put on her face while a clunky old knob on a machine was manipulated.

The next day we traveled to Wonsan, a fishing village on the east coast. The journey took a few hours, with few cars passing by. People walk everywhere - including bent over old ladies carrying sticks on their backs for what must have been hours to the next village. Once in Wonsan, we checked into an ancient-looking hotel bedecked with green wallpaper which was quite a spectacle. Next it was cockles and mussels on the pier, which the guides bought from a stall and cooked on small barbecues. These were quite delicious. On the way back, I walked ahead on the beach with the 18-year-old guide. By this time we’d all become well acquainted, having heard all about their families and such. I thought this might be a good time to ask how she remembered Kim Jong Il’s death when she was 15. I’ll never forget what happened next. We’ve all seen the footage of North Koreans wailing hysterically in the streets whenever one of their leaders dies. I can personally vouch they’re not faking it. My guide stopped, went ‘Oh!’ and put her hand to her chest, then proceeded to tell me how her brother had come into the house and told her the ‘Dear Leader’ had died. Her voice crackling with emotion, she recounted how she’d rushed outside with her neighbours, crying. By now she was sobbing hysterically. The shock written on my face, she sniffed “I know people don’t understand it, but he was like a father to us all, [he] was like the nation’s father – we all grew up with him always there, and suddenly he was gone!” It was a remarkable insight into the psyche of an ordinary North Korean, and how the cult of personality runs deep when engrained since childhood.

The following day we were taken to the DMZ, the border between North and South Korea. The young guide was visibly terrified and we

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MASS GAMES

had to calm her down. Each country’s soldiers face one another in a tense standoff, a singularly unnerving yet fascinating experience.

That night we attended the Mass Games - an eye-popping spectacle with 100,000 performers, including 20,000 school-kids creating a backdrop of open books that form each pixel of a huge background picture, while acrobats gyrate across the stadium. Our guides, intensely proud, saw we had our mouths gaping for the whole 90 minutes. The performance easily rivals anything in the West, and is a must-see for any visitor.

On our last evening, feeling foolhardy, we tried to sneak down to the fifth floor - the rumoured ‘’surveillance’’ floor in the Yakgakkdo Hotel. Accessible only by stairs (button five was missing in the lift) we got out at floor six and were immediately accosted by an angry security man. We pretended we had the wrong floor. Trembling, we then tried floor four, which was quiet, and tiptoed up the pitch-black stairwell. When we got to the fifth it was blocked off - an adventure to be revisited another time…or not!

The following morning we were taken to the airport and bade an emotional farewell to our guides. We boarded the Air Koryo plane with trepidation, given the airline’s notorious reputation, but ascended without incident, and the sense of relief was palpable as we watched the patchwork quilt of North Korean fields disappear through the clouds.

North Korea isn’t for the faint of heart, but it’s a country you’d do well to explore before it changes. It has to be experienced in its present state to be believed, and to cross its borders is to be part of an exclusive cadre of adventurers who aren’t afraid to peek behind the iron curtain of a nation and its people in order to find the bonds of humanity we all share.

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CHAPTER ONE DUBLIN Food Atmosphere

he Irish food scene has exploded in the past two decades. The plethora of bland meat and two veg dishes that littered restaurant menus in the early 90s is almost gone, and establishments all over the country are vying for the custom of the more educated Irish palates. Since Dublin is the beating heart of Ireland, the city naturally accounts for the majority of its seasoned taste buds, and the capital is now home to many of the country’s most celebrated eateries. In recent years a number of accomplished chefs - many hailing from other parts of the world - have set up shop in the bustling capital to cater to maturing Irish tastes.

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The River Liffey divides Dublin in two, with the Southside home to the majority of the city’s must visit venues. Chapter One is located on the Northside, in the less desirable of the two halves depending on whom you ask. When visiting Dublin it’s best to ignore any of the homegrown snobbery that may sway you away from venturing across the river. Arriving at Chapter One you will notice it is located on one a rather fine Georgian square, atop O’Connell Street, a main artery through Dublin’s historical center. The restaurant is tucked neatly underneath the Dublin Writers Museum, in a townhouse which dates back to the 18th-century, and

was once the residence of some of Dublin’s more upper class citizens. The elegance of the building’s red-bricked façade and wrought iron railings, contrasts beautifully with the abundance of vegetation that welcomes guests who descend into the oasis of calm from the footpath above.

My dining companion and I were adjusting our attire when the door was quietly opened and we were welcomed by lively maître d’ and co-owner, Martin Corbett, who gave us an unforgettably warm welcome, his high energy infectious. His vested interest in making guests feel supremely comfortable didn’t come across as forced, as can often be the case with owner-managers.

The plush yet relatively minimalist interior was peppered with bog timber wood sculptures by West Cork artist Kieran Higgins, and art pieces that nodded to notable Irish characters of the past. On the way to our table we passed a glass work, that was adorned with the faces of the men responsible for paving the way to Ireland’s independence, displayed alongside portraits of individuals who were part of Ireland’s rich literary history,

ROSS LEWIS

fitting given the restaurant’s location beneath a museum dedicated to Irish writers.

A T STE others. Opting for a tasting menu is usually the best way to sample the multitude of gastronomic delights served in a restaurant of Chapter One’s culinary kudos, so we selected the eight-course EUR 90 menu with paired wines at EUR 50 per head.

No fuss was made when I requested an alternative to the cured mackerel first course - which my companion proclaimed was a meal opener she would never forget.

The truffled red cow parmesan ravioli I was served - with braised oxtail minestrone, celeriac and basil - was the delectable start of a three-hour food party in my mouth, the integrity of the fresh produce used coming across in

GOOSE AND OATMEAL SAUSAGE WITH PICKLED CHERRIES, SHAVED PEAR AND CELERIAC PURÉE

every plate which emerged from the kitchen.

The second course of Japanese pearl tapioca with St Tola goat’s cheese, organic spinach, Irish shitake mushroom and truffle, was skillfully paired with a 2014 Gewürztraminer from a fine French producer, furnishing the salty cheese buried beneath the beaded tapioca top with a delicately sweet edge. Whilst in my opinion a touch too filling for a second course, the ensemble was cleverly constructed and bursting with flavours.

From our table we had a clear view of the kitchen where a mass of white coats was busy creating. Our charming and chatty waiter was a local Dubliner, and his calm and friendly demeanor added to the pleasantly relaxed atmosphere in the dining room, which is not easily achieved in a Michelin-starred establishment. Chapter One was awarded a Michelin star in 2007 and has been the recipient of countless other accolades since opening in the nineties. Many of the restaurant’s specialist growers and artisan producers have been supplying executive chef Ross Lewis and his team since then. The restaurant’s roll call of valued suppliers is proudly listed on its website, so diners know in advance where each ingredient of their meal is coming from.

Sommelier Ed Jolliffe, checked in with us at every course to assure our taste buds were suitably hydrated as the feast progressed. He was especially keen to show-off his futuristic piece of wine technology, Coravin, which allowed him to pour us a glass of his finest vintage without removing the cork (www.coravin.com).

Chapter One can best be described as a world-class Irish restaurant with pan-international influences, and so there are a number of different menus on offer, catering to theatre-goers, vegetarians and groups, amongst

Course after course were served by polite and well-versed staff, perfectly educated about the composition of each dish, and I was pleased to see that the time Lewis spent in Ferran Adrià’s iconic El Bulli

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restaurant, manifested itself in inspired touches which adorned some of the dishes served. Whilst Lewis’ lovingly-designed tasting menu showcased contemporary Irish cuisine at its very best - ingeniously blending the simple with the exquisite to excellent effect - it has to be said that the waiting staff also played a big part in the first-rate dining experience at Chapter One. That most of the staff hails from Ireland undoubtedly added to the restaurant’s charm.

Special mention must be made of the fourth and sixth courses: Mulloy’s smoked haddock with fermented horseradish and cauliflower, lindi black pepper, pickled

red dulse and langoustines, which was served with a superb 2009 French Macon. This dish’s velvety sauce was moreish and scrumptious in the extreme, and it was intensely difficult to refrain from mopping up (with my fingers) the tiny amount remaining on my plate. The sixth course of salt marsh duck was elegant, succulent and beautifully seasoned, the addition of blood orange adding a clever tang and taste sensation, married with a delicious German Pinot Noir, to create both a flawless conclusion to the main courses and the perfect prelude to the Dingle Gin soup dessert, Irish coffees prepared à la minute at the table and homemade petit fours.

Dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant often conjures up images of a stuffy room populated by pompous clientele picking at small dishes of over-prepared food in virtual silence. Dining at Chapter One couldn’t be further from this stereotype and is a gastronomic experience to be savoured, lingered over, enjoyed and remembered. The combined warmth and talents of Corbett and Lewis are the stars of the show, alongside the incredible food and their exceedingly friendly staff, resulting in contemporary Irish fine dining at its approachable, tasty and sociable best.

PORK CHEEK GRATINATED WITH JOWL, POTATO DUMPLINGS AND BRANDON BAY COCKLES WITH CHARGRILLED WILD GARLIC

CHAPTER ONE Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Ross Lewis Address: 18 - 19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, Ireland Telephone: + 353 1 873 2266 Email: info@chapteronerestaurant.com Website: www.chapteronerestaurant.com Cuisine: Contemporary Irish Lunch: 12:30 - 14:00 Tuesday - Friday Dinner: 17:30 - 22:30 Tuesday - Saturday Lunch price: Three-course set lunch EUR 39.50.

Dinner price: Four-course dinner EUR 70.

Ideal meal: Dinner tasting menu EUR 90. Paired wines EUR 50.

Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: No Children: Welcome. No kids menu Credit cards: All major Parking: On street.

Reviewed by Gordon Hickey on 20 April 2016 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

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MATADOR ROOM MIAMI Food Atmosphere

Miami is buzzing these days, confident and proud of its present and future. More than ever, the city is a center for the arts, culture, fashion and of course, fun. There is a building boom underway. Properties from the 1940s and 1950s continue to be renovated. New luxury residential and hotel towers are popping up all over the place. Once a relatively sleepy albeit sultry city with a strong Latin influence, Miami is increasingly a truly international city.

Those who visit Miami and choosing to live there, are more sophisticated and well travelled than ever before.

Against this backdrop, the restaurant scene is changing.

No longer is it sufficient to rely exclusively on design and beautiful people to ensure success or longevity. While Miami has yet to host an establishment that has earned a Michelin star, the food stakes are rising quickly. Miami is becoming a real foodie town, driven by new openings, culinary innovation and a more discerning clientele.

Increased competition means that restaurants now have to deliver consistently on all fronts - food, service and overall experience. While mainland Miami neighbourhoods like the Financial District, Brickell,

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Wynwood and the Design District offer new and exciting epicurean experiences, much of the fine dining remains on Miami Beach where new hotels - trend setters in luxury and design - are accompanied by globally recognised restaurant openings.

Matador Room, which opened in December 2014 at the breathtaking Miami Beach Edition in Mid Beach, is an invaluable new addition to Miami’s restaurant scene and is on the forefront of all the culinary changes taking place in the city today. The brainchild of savvy world famous French chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Matador Room offers a distinctive interpretation on Latin cuisine, incorporating Spanish, Caribbean and South American flavors. Chef de cuisine, Jeremy Ford, was recently crowned winner of season 13 of popular American TV show, Top Chef, further validating Matador Room’s gastronomic credentials and ensuring that it remains one of Miami’s hottest restaurant tickets.

Along with nearby Faena and The One hotels, the Edition is one of the new ultra high-end properties that have

opened up in Mid Beach in the past few years, transforming Miami into a more global and sophisticated destination. Actually, “new” is not completely accurate since they are, in fact, inspired restorations from Miami’s mid century golden age, evoking glamour, luxury and decadence. Situated on 29th and Collins, the Edition has its own private circular driveway, which takes you off Collins Avenue towards the ocean, adding a sense of exclusivity upon arrival.

The Edition hotel brand is a relatively new concept, formulated by famous hotelier and design guru, Ian Schrager, in conjunction with Marriott. Its focus is on modern luxury, distinctive design and creating dynamic entertainment hubs in which signature restaurants play a leading role. In many ways this is a reimagined return to Miami Beach’s golden hey day.

Matador Room was an integral part of the former, once-famous Seville Hotel, which now forms part of the Edition. Vongerichten’s eatery takes its name from the restaurant’s previous incarnation. Even though it’s a new restaurant, a distinct sense of a rich and colourful past is ever present. The vibe is glamorous supper club; formal

JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN

enough to lend a sense of occasion, yet sufficiently relaxed to feel decadent and fun. To get to the main dining room, you must pass through Matador Bar, where an imposingly beautiful black walnut and stone bar is the main focal point of the room. Whilst floor-to-ceiling windows look directly out on to the ocean, it’s the bullfighting memorabilia and riveting life-like photographs of actual matadors in motion that set the bar’s tone and personality. Lively and large enough to feel spacious, Matador Bar is a great place to sample signature cocktails with names like Bittersweet Symphony (Grey Goose, blackberry, grapefruit, lemon and sage) and Red Dawn (Belvedere, dry Curaçao, yuzu, raspberry and ginger).

At the end of Matador Bar, sits the restaurant reception, manned by professional, warm and pleasing-on-the-eye staff. Although connected to the bar, Matador Room’s main dining area is not at once obviously visible, creating a sense of anticipation and drama. The centerpiece of the grand space is a huge, original octopus-like white crystal chandelier, its tentacles emanating outwards, 112 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

A T STE suspended over a sunken oval dining room of banquettes and freestanding tables. Additional seating is positioned around the perimeter of the room. White suit clad male and female servers add a glamorous touch.

The overall effect is that of a theatre, with the stage and audience enjoying the performance as one. Flattering lighting, excellent acoustics and a well-conceived layout, skillfully achieve the right balance between stimulation and calm. The generous use of natural materials and walls paneled in fabric add warmth to the space’s ample proportions. It’s not easy to create a private dining experience while being part of a mesmerizing circus.

Matador Room nails it.

SWEET PEA GUACAMOLE

The food part of the evening began under the guidance of executive sous chef, Joe Mizzoni and server, Estefania with sweet pea guacamole infused with baby cilantro and home made chips. Who knew that sweet pea could make guacamole taste so good? This was followed by red snapper crudo with green chili dressing and crunchy rice.

Mixing and matching flavours and textures is a hallmark of the cooking at Matador Room, the result of which can best be described as an intensely pleasurable palette awakening. Mozzarella with ricotta piped inside, served with pumpernickel croutons, fresh local mini strawberries and Modena vinegar was excellent and like nothing I had ever tasted before. Dish after dish proceeded like this. Next came fiddlehead fern (yes, fern) with cayenne pepper sourdough croutons and lemon and paprika infused aioli. Fiddlehead ferns are the furled fronds of a young fern. There is only a window of a few weeks that the fronds are edible, allowing for this dish to be served only at certain times of the year. The innovative menu excites and inspires, enhanced by seasonal specials and unique flavours. Small and larger dishes prepared in four different kitchens are brought to

& SI P the table when ready, tapas style, and meant to be shared. Braised octopus, marinated overnight in an herb broth was served lightly grilled. Scallops arrived alongside sautéed cauliflower, kombu and ramp (pre-spring onion). This being a Jean-Georges restaurant, the scallops had a backstory - hand picked by an independent fisherwoman in Maine and flown directly to Miami. Matador Room’s servers are incredibly well informed, not only about the optimal way to order but also the nuances of each dish. The result is that you end up tasting a lot of different foods, with the staggering of their delivery building excitement and anticipation about what is being served next and how it has been prepared.

Other dishes came and went with equal innovation and taste as the scallops. Pork confit arrived accompanied by smoked bacon marmalade and English peas. The suckling pig had been cooked for fifteen hours. The meat was then taken off the bone, pressed with the skin and made into crackling. Extraordinary. A medley of lemon curd, lemon cake and blackberry crumble were served for dessert. Bravo.

If truth be told, I am not usually a fan of tapas style dining, particularly for dinner. However the experience at Matador Room completely changed my perspective.

This is a menu where you want to try as much as possible. Each dish and each bite was an experience unto its own. Not only did the food taste fabulous, but I also felt that I had participated in a culinary experience that was bold, creative and exciting. Unique flavour pairings, fresh seasonal and unusual produce, and clean presentations combined to deliver something one would be hard pressed to find elsewhere. A visit to Matador Room feels like a real evening out, one to be savoured and enjoyed, where the star is most certainly the food.

MATADOR ROOM TERRACE BAR

FLORIDA BLACK GROUPER TACOS

MATADOR ROOM Food: Atmosphere:

Chef de Cuisine: Jeremy Ford Address: 2901 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33140, USA Telephone: +1 786 257 4600 Email: reservations.restaurant@editionhotels.com Website: www.matadorroom.com Cuisine: Latin Spanish Lunch: Monday - Friday 10:00- 15:00.

Saturday & Sunday 10:00 - 16:00.

Dinner: Sunday - Thursday 18:00 - 21:00.

Friday & Saturday 18:00 - 00:00.

Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Credit cards: All major

Lunch price:

Carafe of Red Apple Sangria (USD 4), Sweet Pea Guacamole with Crunchy Tortilla (USD 13), Crispy Mahi Sandwhich, Chipotle Mayonniase and Arugula (USD 19), Strawberry Sundae, Kaffir Lime Meringue (USD 9).

Dinner price: Spicy Tuna Tartare, Black Olive, Cucumber and Avocado (USD 13), Charred Octopus with Crispy Potatoes Paprika Emulsion (USD 21), Suckling Pig, English Pea, Smoked Bacon Marmalade (USD 31), Warm Vanilla Fritters, Mexican Chocolate (USD 9).

Ideal meal: Dinner above Children: High chairs available. No kids menu Parking: Valet chargeable. Some street parking available Reviewed by Alex Benasuli on 27 March 2016 for dinner

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

TASTE &SI P INTERVIEW JEREMY FORD CHEF DE CUISINE MATADOR ROOM ALEX BENASULI INTERVIEWED FAST-RISING MIAMI-BASED CHEF DE CUISINE OF CELEBRATED MATADOR ROOM, JEREMY FORD, FRESH FROM HIS CROWNING AS THE WINNER OF AMERICAN TELEVISION SERIES, TOP CHEF.

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WHERE DOES YOUR LOVE FOR COOKING COME FROM? One of my fondest memories, which always reminds me about my love for cooking, is the day my family and I met my adopted mother’s mom. I will never forget walking into her house; it had the most amazing fragrance. I remember seeing roast beef stuffed with garlic cloves. I was absolutely mesmerized because I had never had a meal like that before.

HOW OLD WERE YOU WHEN YOU REALISED THAT BECOMING A CHEF WAS YOUR PATH? I was about 14 years old, and remember flipping through TV channels and landed on chef Emeril Lagasse’s cooking show, Emeril Live. I was so fascinated by his cooking that I immediately began practicing his recipes at home.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB IN THE COOKING WORLD AND WHAT DID IT TEACH YOU? My first job in the kitchen was prep, mostly peeling pounds and pounds of shrimp. This taught me how to appreciate every other assignment I was given.

WHO HAVE BEEN YOUR MENTORS AND IN WHAT WAY DID THEY HELP YOUR CAREER? French chef, Christophe Emé, was one of my first career-changing influences. He taught me discipline and how to respect the craft, when I was just 17.

Then came a very different kind of teacher, Dean James Max, who took the more relaxed approach.

Max is an amazing artist - especially when it comes to cooking with fish - and really cares about local farms and sustainability.

WHAT MISTAKES HAVE YOU MADE ALONG THE WAY THAT TURNED OUT TO BE GROWING OPPORTUNITIES? Moving away from my daughter when she was only two years old was - at the time - a mistake. But I ended up meeting Dean James Max, who was a big part of my career, and fundamentally improved and changed me as a chef.

IF YOU COULD INVITE ANYONE TO A DINNER PARTY WHO WOULD IT BE? I would love to cook for my mother. She lives far away and we are always making excuses about our busy schedules, etc.

HOW DID YOU MEET JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN AND WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNT FROM HIM? I did a tasting for Jean-Georges to secure my current position. He picked me out of several applicants. He has taught me how to use chilies and acid in the most effective way. Plus the biggest, most important rule, that if you don’t crave the dish after three bites, it’s simply not a good dish.

HOW DID THE CONCEPT FOR MATADOR ROOM COME ABOUT, AND WHAT WAS YOUR INVOLVEMENT IN THE PROCESS? Matador Room is very similar to Jean-Georges’ Latin American fusion concept restaurant, ABC Cocina in New York. My involvement in Matador Room is to always keep our seasonal insert menu strong with new items.

PLEASE SHARE WITH US THE CREATIVE PROCESS BEHIND A NEW DISH AND HOW IT MAKES IT ONTO THE MENU AT MATADOR ROOM? Most of my inspiration comes from the ingredients that are coming into season. I get really excited when a new season’s approaching, because it’s a new start with new inspirations!

WHAT ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO THE FOOD, PRESENTATION AND SERVICE AT MATADOR ROOM SINCE OPENING IN DECEMBER 2014?

Most of the dishes were pre-tested and ready to roll from the start, but we have changed some cuts of meat to cater better to our local market.

HOW OFTEN DOES THE MENU CHANGE AT MATADOR ROOM AND WHAT PROMPTS A REFRESH? Most of the menu contains staples and there are certain dishes that customers expect to see when they come. However the remainder of the menu is based on seasonality and we have an insert that changes almost daily.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE OF PARTICIPATING IN SEASON 13 OF BRAVO’S TOP CHEF TELEVISION SERIES IN AMERICA. Meeting all of the judges and getting to cook for some of my idols was absolutely amazing.

The feeling of winning challenges was definitely one of the best feelings I’ve experienced as a chef.

APART FROM WINNING THE OVERALL COMPETITION, WHAT WERE THE BEST PART AND THE MOST CHALLENGING? The best and most challenging moment on Top Chef, was cooking at celebrated French chef Hubert Keller’s restaurant, Fleur de Lys in San Francisco. Mine being the last meal cooked really added to the pressure. Hearing Hubert tell me that he would put the dish I prepared on his menu meant the world to me.

NOW THAT YOU HAVE WON TOP CHEF, WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? My plan today and for the rest of my career is to keep learning. The only reason I had a chance of winning Top Chef, was because, as a chef, I am always pushing myself to be better.

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““My My p plan lan ttoday oday and and for for the the rest rest of of my my ccareer areer iiss to keep to k eep learning.” learning.”

IF YOU COULD OPEN A RESTAURANT ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD WHERE WOULD IT BE AND WHAT CUISINE WOULD BE SERVED? Besides Miami, it would have to be California, because the produce and fish are really like nowhere else. So many exciting things to do outside of work also makes California a fun location.

WE SEEM TO BE LIVING INCREASINGLY IN AN AGE OF CELEBRITY CHEFS. DO YOU THINK THIS IS A GOOD THING FOR AMERICA’S RESTAURANT SCENE? I think chefs can definitely be rock stars now. As long as chefs don’t lose sight of why they became chefs in the first place, then yes, I think it’s a good thing.

WHEN IT'S YOU AND YOUR NINE-YEAR OLD DAUGHTER AT HOME, WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO EAT? We absolutely love to eat pasta. We even make our own from time to time, adding-in whatever different types of vegetables we find in the fridge.

HOW HAS THE RESTAURANT SCENE IN MIAMI CHANGED OVER THE YEARS AND IN WHAT DIRECTION IS IT HEADED? In the last 8 years since I've been in South Florida, I’ve watched the city’s culinary scene emerge and grow incredibly. The innovation and talent are amazing. I see Miami continuing to grow chef-driven neighbourhood restaurants, serving approachable dishes which entice guests back several times a week.

DO YOU THINK MIAMI PULLS ABOVE OR BELOW ITS WEIGHT IN THE AMERICAN RESTAURANT STAKES? Miami offers a remarkable variety of cuisine and the city is most certainly pulling its weight.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN MIAMI? I absolutely love the early spring, and taking out my boat on the bright blue waters.

WHAT DO YOU DO IN YOUR FREE TIME? I eat and hang out with my daughter as much as possible. We really enjoy eating out together.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE WATERING HOLE IN MIAMI? Sweet Liberty, co-owned by my buddy Josh Wagner, which serves incredible cocktails (www.mysweetliberty.com).

WHERE DO YOU HOLIDAY AND WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE DESTINATION TO KICK-BACK AND RELAX? Being a chef makes being present for holidays hard since we are usually in the kitchen, but last year my brother and I started a tradition to spend Christmas together, in the mountains, with the whole family.

PLEASE SHARE AN OFF THE BEATEN TRACK TIP IN MIAMI. Taking an Everglades boat tour is a must.

TASTE &SI P THE FOOD

ROYAL RED SHRIMP IN “AGUA DIABLO” MARCONA ALMONDS, BANANA AND CILANTRO THIS EYECATCHING, LIGHT AND VIBRANT DISH, COURTESY OF AWARD-WINNING CHEF DE CUISINE OF MIAMI’S MATADOR ROOM, JEREMY FORD, WORKS EQUALLY WELL SHARING AT AN AL FRESCO GATHERING, AS IT DOES ON THE TABLE OF A SMART DINNER PARTY.

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INGREDIENTS: SHIMP 400g Carolina white shrimp, peeled, cut in ½ from head to tail, deveined 4g Salt 15g Mint sprigs, bottom 1/3 stem removed, bruised last minute 2000g Boiling water

METHOD: SHRIMP Season the shrimp with the salt, bruise the mint and mix together well. Allow to stand for 15 minutes. Transfer to a bain marie and pour the boiling water over everything, then stir, cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and allow to poach for 60 seconds. Then drain through a strainer, spread into the bottom of a pan and cool in the freezer for 15 minutes. Divide into 70g portions, removing the mint, as necessary.

INGREDIENTS: AGUA DIABLO 300g Fresh lime juice 60g Clementine juice 5g Clementine peel, all pith removed 40g Red finger chilies, ½ seeds removed 10g Red habañeros (chili peppers), de-seeded and ribbed 2g Garlic, germ (sprout) removed 9g Salt

METHOD: AGUA DIABLO Combine all in blender and puree until smooth: pass through a chinois (fine mesh sieve) with passing sediment. Make extremely cold before using.

TO SERVE PER DISH: 70g Shrimp 1½oz Agua Diablo 4 each roasted/salted marcona almonds cut end to end 6 each ¾inch ripe banana obliques Flurry micro/baby cilantro Drizzle evo/sprinkle fleur Arrange the shrimp in the bottom of a freezing bowl.

Pour over the Agua Diablo, scatter with the banana, almonds and cilantro, then drizzle with evo and sprinkle lightly with fleur. Serve immediately.

BORN IN SEOUL, EDUCATED IN VIENNA AND NOW LIVING IN THE MIDDLE EAST, KALIA MICHAELIDES CAUGHT-UP WITH AWARD-WINNING CONCERT PIANIST AND STEINWAY ARTIST SONJA PARK IN BETWEEN HER BUSY INTERNATIONAL PERFORMANCE SCHEDULE

SONJA PARK

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music& NIGHT LIFE

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You are the first Steinway artist in the Gulf region, joining the ranks of more than 1600 of the world’s greatest pianists. What does this accolade mean to you?

It is a great privilege and honour to join the ranks of such acclaimed artists, and most importantly to be an ambassador of Steinway in a part of the world where classical music is not as established as it is in Europe and many Asian countries. The fact that a brand as prestigious as Steinway has endorsed me and entrusted me with this role, has only made me more zealous and passionate to promote music in the Gulf and make it part of more peoples’ lives.

What responsibilities come with being a Steinway artist?

You have to meet certain criteria to become a Steinway artist, not least owning a Steinway piano, agreeing to play on Steinway pianos exclusively and endorsing the world’s finest pianos voluntarily. Plus I must keep my standard of playing as high as possible.

You come from a family immersed in classical music.

Would you say that your destiny was more or less a foregone conclusion?

because consecutive performances can be physically demanding, strenuous and exhausting.

How do you juggle motherhood, teaching and performing?

At the moment, as a mother with a young child, sleep deprivation is my biggest problem, but I know this is a temporary situation so I keep going. Besides having the support of my devoted husband, the love I have for my work is the biggest motivation I need to overcome any challenges I may encounter as a mother, teacher or soloist.

Since you were educated in music pedagogy, did you want to be a music teacher?

When I was younger it felt natural to follow my mother’s footsteps and honour her wish, since she was a music school director for 35 years. Nowadays I use my teacher skills to educate a small piano class.

What triggered your career as a piano soloist?

Music is much more than just a sound, a beat or lyrics in our ears. It’s not about who’s playing or singing - music is about the message being delivered.

As a child I didn’t want to become a pianist at all. I really didn’t like practising because playing the piano came relatively easily to me. As a teenager I craved something more active and challenging, and had always been drawn to journalism. But at the age of 21 I fell in love with music and the piano and soon became the concert pianist I believe I was destined to be.

Would you like your daughter to follow your musical career path?

A dedicated musical career can be a very tough path to follow. However, if this is my daughter’s wish I will of course support her all the way. Whilst she is only 8 years old at the moment, she is already very talented and skilful on the piano.

Are there any sacrifices an artist of your standard has to make in order to be successful and committed?

Like any professional career, in order to be successful you must be committed, disciplined and work hard. For me work comes first and takes priority over some of life’s pleasures, like spending time with friends. Plus I always have to listen to my body and take care of my health,

While I was studying in Vienna, I experienced a breath-taking concert. Those incredible, magical musical moments were a turning point in my life, which touched me deeply and transported me to another world. That experience made it clear to me that playing the piano professionally was my destiny.

Who was your musical mentor?

Alexander Jenner, my teacher in Vienna and professor at the Wiener Musikhochschule, where he conducted classes and gave courses. Professor Jenner taught in Austria, Japan, Germany, USA, Taiwan, Spain and Latin America, and was honoured with many national and international orders of merit. I was incredibly lucky to have him as my mentor.

Aside from classical, what other music genres do you enjoy?

For me good music is universally appealing irrespective of the genre. I enjoy jazz, funk and R&B, amongst others.

Who is your favourite classical musician and why?

Martha Argerich, the legendary Argentinian pianist. She has everything that a performing artist could wish for.

Her music is beautiful yet passionate and powerful. She has an electrifying stage presence. I love watching her, listening to her and absorbing her perform. I identify with her music and her musicality is in tune with my being.

You are very involved in Moving Young Artists. Part of the foundation’s ethos is to embrace the positive qualities of music, one of which is to heal. How do you feel music can heal?

Music can have a huge impact on people. Music stimulates our senses, relaxes our nerves and enhances our emotions. Music can have a staggering effect. Our pulses can change to chime with music. Our physical state can change in response to music. Music has an incredibly ability to both energise us and calm us. Music is much more than just a sound, a beat or lyrics in our ears. It’s not about who’s playing or singing - music is about the message being delivered. It’s about the way it makes a person feel and the impact a song or a piece has on someone’s life. It can make us feel happier when we are happy, it can make us feel down when we are sad.

Music can also inspire us to deal with our innermost emotions.

What do you try to instil into the music students you teach?

Everything from basic groundwork to releasing their 124

emotions when playing. To focus, to concentrate while practising and to do their best when working on something. And then, when performing, to try to enjoy and embrace the moment. I also try to teach them that, at some point, they won’t need me.

Which holiday destinations hold the fondest memories for you?

It’s a long list. Hawaii, Seychelles, South Africa, Bali, Italy, France, Prague. I could go on forever. I am very fortunate to have travelled extensively and have enjoyed memorable holidays in a number of beautiful places.

When staying in a hotel, is it a prerequisite for you to have a room with a piano?

Only when I am on a concert trip is a piano in my hotel room useful, but usually I practice in the concert venue.

You have toured the world performing. Of all the countries you have visited, is there one which you feel especially connected to?

Austria and my second hometown, Vienna, where I spent

I would love to work with Martha Argerich, my favourite musician, who is widely regarded as one of the greatest pianists of the second half of the 20th century.

about nine years of my life. Italy comes a close second. I love Italy and the country’s beauty, nature, food, wine, the passionate Italian people and cutting-edge fashion. Just being in Italy makes me feel relaxed and positive about life.

Please reveal to our readers a secret in-flight tip of yours.

Sadly I don’t have any to share because I can never sleep on planes, irrespective of the cabin class I’m in. I tend to watch movies, read books and flip through magazines during flights.

What’s your favourite hotel in the world and why?

I’m a fan of Four Seasons hotels for their quality and consistently high standards. But when we go on holiday as a family we usually stay in boutique hotels, since we prefer a bit more intimacy and personality.

What has been your career highlight to date and what impact did it have on you?

I must mention two moving experiences. One was when I worked on a concert with the late Nikolaus Harnoncourt,

the brilliant conductor, at his home in St. Georgen, Austria. His musical insights and incredible depth of knowledge touched me intensely. The second was when I performed in Pakistan at a charity gala to raise awareness for avoidable blindness. I played the piano blindfolded, which was both an incredible experience and extremely humbling.

Name a musical personality you would love to work with.

Martha Argerich, my favourite musician, who is widely regarded as one of the greatest pianists of the second half of the 20th century.

What's top of your travel hot list - somewhere you haven't visited yet?

Sorry, two places, Peru and Iceland.

What is your ultimate goal as a pianist?

To perform on every continent, touch as many musical hearts as I can and make a positive impact on as many people’s lives as possible. www.sonjapark.org

GLOBETROTTER

AFTER SPENDING ALMOST A DECADE AS AN INVESTMENT BANKER, ROBERT TATEOSSIAN SET ABOUT TRANSFORMING MEN’S ACCESSORIES FROM AN OUTDATED CONVENTION TO MODERN LUXURY ITEMS. THE KING OF CUFFLINKS SPOKE WITH KALIA MICHAELIDES ABOUT MAKING THE LEAP TO THE WORLD OF HIGH-END RETAIL, CREATING AN INTERNATIONAL LUXURY FASHION BRAND AND WHAT INSPIRES NEW COLLECTIONS.

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You’ve said that City financier to jewellery designer was a natural progression. What triggered this career change?

I identified an opportunity in the market in the field of cufflinks, and wanted to be an entrepreneur, travel the world and work in fashion.

You have lived around the world on various continents, so why do you call London home?

London is where I have spent more than 30 years of my life, is where my business is based and where my main residence is located. However there is a possibility this might change in the future. I also feel comfortable living in New York, Milan and Cape Town.

How do you feel about the “King of Cufflinks� moniker?

Of course I am humbled to have been given this title, and strive to always come up with collections that are stronger season after season.

From where do you draw inspiration for your product lines?

Many things inspire me. I spend more than 70% of my time travelling around the world and gain inspiration from art, furniture and architecture.

How do you source gems and rare materials, such as dinosaur bone and meteorite?

I go to specialist trade shows around the world, and deal with the person at the origin rather than middlemen. Dealers also contact me directly whenever they come across something that might be of interest.

Is it easy to combine fashion-forward, classic and timeless in a piece of jewellery?

Absolutely, I believe that jewellery should be timeless, especially when executed in a precious material. Classic pieces should always incorporate an element of modernity, reflecting the current trend.

Which is your favourite Tateossian piece and why?

It is very difficult to pick one piece, since it 128

depends on the occasion it is being worn. However, one piece I rarely leave the house without is a raw sapphire pendant on leather.

store in Yerevan?

If you could collaborate with any living designer who would it be?

Armenia is a beautiful and historic country. What places must overseas tourists visit?

Antony Gormley. I love his art and I’m sure I could have fun designing a collection with him.

Please tell us about Tateossian’s partnership with the Solace Foundation?

The Solace Foundation came about when I was approached by a friend in Dubai, who wanted to raise funds to buy winter jackets for Syrian refugees in Lebanese camps. It was an easy decision for me to make, so we organised two events in our London stores, plus an online appeal to our database of customers and donated 30% of the sale proceeds to the charity.

Are you heavily involved in the design of Tateossian stores?

I am involved in every design aspect of my brand, from store design to packaging, advertising and, of course, the product.

People now tend to do much of their shopping on the net. Do you feel that this has had a negative impact on old-fashioned high-street shopping?

Online shopping is a phenomenon that is increasing year on year and I’m sure will continue to do so. We have witnessed this in the growth of our website sales versus retail sales. However, customers still want the experience of walking into a store and being romanced into buying a piece of jewellery or an item of clothing. Nothing beats the ceremony of looking at different pieces before selecting the most perfect one, being greeted by a sales person and recognised by name. The human aspects of shopping cannot be replaced by a website.

What is the process when designing and producing a new piece of women’s jewellery? Do you work with a team?

Twice a year I sit down with the design team and our creative director to develop the new collection. It is a group of four designers. We examine what has sold well previously, and work on new themes based on the mood of the moment and ideas collected during the course of the season. The process usually takes six months, but some of our more complicated designs can take up to a year and a half from start to finish.

How important was it for you to open a Tateossian

I am Armenian so of course it was a matter of personal pride.

Yerevan the capital is rich in museums and culture, with many beautiful squares to stroll around and plenty of delicious foods to choose from. And the pomegranate juice is a must!

Do you combine business and pleasure when travelling the world?

It would be a shame to just work when travelling the globe, and not immerse oneself in the local culture visit restaurants, museums, walk around the town so I always try to combine both and meet-up with friends in different countries.

Any tips for dealing with jet-lag?!

Try to adapt to the local timetable immediately upon arrival, so do not land in the morning and go to sleep.

Try to stay up and awake as long as possible. Going to the gym also helps your body clock to adjust more quickly. Of course not drinking alcohol on flights can also help, but I do like to have a nice glass of wine on board.

If you could only take six items onto a plane, what would they be?

Mobile ‘phone loaded with music, iPad, noise cancellation headset, sleeping pill, warm sweater and a good book.

What’s your favourite vacation destination and why?

Definitely Cape Town for the superb weather, affordability, delicious food and wines, great places to visit, super beaches and warm and friendly people.

What are your criteria when choosing a hotel?

I generally stay away from very large hotels unless I can receive personal service. I like rooms with a view and favour hotels that retain their staff for some time so they can recognise familiar faces.

You have successfully launched watch collections.

What made you decide to expand into the highly competitive horology arena?

We consider ourselves to be a men’s accessory brand, so watches were a natural extension to our line of cufflinks and bracelets. Watches are in fact one of the few pieces of jewellery that most men will wear aside from a wedding ring.

Whilst many men now accesorise some still think that just a watch will suffice. Your thoughts please.

Watches tend to be a man’s favourite accessory but there are a lot more. Cufflinks are the best way to complete your look whether going for an interview or a fun night out, and a stack of bracelets on your wrist will make you feel young and reflect your character and personality.

Do you seek the endorsement of celebrities, and if so, what qualities does a Tateossian brand ambassador typically possess?

Gaining a celebrity endorsement usually requires a hefty investment and the return can often be mixed.

If we had sufficient budget for this it would need to someone who could pull-off wearing an amazing

stud set as well as a stack of bracelets. Daniel Craig perhaps.

To what do you attribute the global success of the Tateossian brand?

We have worked very hard over the past 26 years to deliver a unique collection of jewellery season after season, with impeccable attention to craftsmanship, always trying to push the boundaries a little with innovation. And I am surrounded by a very dedicated and loyal team who help me deliver a superior product and service to our clients. Plus a bit of luck of course!

What’s next for Robert Tateossian?

We are planning to launch a leather goods line of back-packs, belts and small leather items. www.tateossian.com

June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 131

EDITORS’ CHOICE

The hot long days and balmy breezy nights are almost upon-us. By the time our next issue is out, we will be in the midst of the months of the year that most of us regard as serious vacation downtime. There’s nothing that gets you more into the spirit of travelling than shopping for a holiday wardrobe, and so for this - the first of two summer issues of TCT - Kalia Michaelides and I have each hand-picked half a dozen essentials, which we feel any fashion conscious cultured traveller shouldn’t leave home for sunnier climes without.

Nicholas Chrisostomou, Editor-in-Chief

For Him

ORLEBAR BROWN SWIM SHORTS Launched almost a decade ago by photographer Adam Brown, Orlebar Brown focuses on functional, comfortable and sophisticated yet casual swimwear. Eye-catching by the pool, smart enough to wear at lunch, and funky enough to sport at a party, the versatility of these shorts justifies their cost. These tailored, mid-length swimmers - covered with a 360° 1978 image of Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc - are the perfect combo of vintage and fashion.

GBP 225 WWW.ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK

MARKUS LUPFER T-SHIRT

German-born London-based Markus Lupfer's sequin-embellished and hand-embroidered knitwear and t-shirts have developed a strong celebrity following among Roisin Murphy, Daisy Lowe and recently Madonna. This camel skeleton print tee, in 100% cotton jersey, is cheeky, fun and versatile. Wear is casually with shorts or dress it up for a beach party.

GBP 70 WWW.MARKUSLUPFER.COM

RIVIERAS SHOES These navy slip-on shoes by Rivieras simple, lightweight and classically stylish, and made from breathable cotton mesh - are a great choice for a resort or beach-based vacation, and their relatively low cost means you don't need to worry about trashing them!

EUR 55 WWW.MRPORTER.COM

DAN WARD BEACH BAG American-born designer, Dan Ward, spent his youth in Japan and has been living and working throughout Europe for the past 25 years. This graphic monochrome canvas beach tote - lined in black - is handy for organising your daily essentials when planning a day in the sun, and features a deep interior with three internal slip pockets to separate your knick-knacks.

EUR 95 WWW.DANWARDWEAR.COM 132 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

THEORY LINEN SHIRT No summer wardrobe is complete without a linen shirt. Theory produce contemporary clothing for today's modern men, and this Zack PS shirt is no exception - classically styled, beautifully finished and sparsely detailed to keep the focus on the neat shape. Wear poolside with shorts or team with jeans for an evening at a beach club. Buy one in white and one in blue to maximise your holiday wardrobe.

Blue USD 225 WWW.THEORY.COM White EUR 245 WWW.MRPORTER.COM

SUPERDRY CARGO SHORTS

The only pair of cargo shorts a guy will ever need. I haven't stopped wearing mine since buying them, and they only look better with age and washing.

Featuring seven pockets, button-fly fastening and reinforced construction, these classic military style CoreLite shorts by Superdry, will literally go anywhere and withstand pretty much anything.

Battalion Green is the only way to go.

EUR 69.95 WWW.SUPERDRY.COM

CHLOÉ CROCHETED MINI DRESS Crocheted from airy cotton, this beautiful milk-coloured piece, designed by Clare Waight Keller for the inimitable French fashion house, is cut in an off-the-shoulder silhouette with voluminous sleeves, and the nipped-in waist will define your figure. Accessorise with pared-back jewels and top with an oversized fedora for a boho-chic look.

GBP 1,445 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

For Her

ITZY BEACHY SWIMSUIT

This London-based luxury swimwear brand, produces well-designed exclusive pieces, which nicely bridge the gap between wearability, comfort and fashion. Not too skimpy yet just revealing enough, this Ibiza Bandeau one-piece swimsuit, in an eye-catching Greek print, adds some Mediterranean chic to your holiday wardrobe, and the clever design is flatteringly slimming.

GBP 175 WWW.ITZYBEACHY.COM

VALENTINO LIZARD SANDALS It’s not easy to combine luxury, style and fashion into comfortable summery footwear, but Italian fashion house, Valentino, has done it again with these chic and sleek Love Latch sandals. Made in Italy from blush and black Argentinian lizard and embellished with tiny silver eyelets, they’re set on slim yet durable soles and secured with slender, harness-inspired straps that flatter sun-kissed beach feet.

GBP 1,015 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

EUGENIA KIM EMMANUELLE HAT Made in New York, Eugenia Kim's Emmanuelle fedoras, are an elegant, feminine take on a classic male hat.

Fashioned from lightweight natural straw, with a neatly pinched top and wide brim, they’re perfect for shielding your face from prying eyes or the midday sun.

Decorated with everything from feathers to embroidery, we love the version embellished with a colourful Quetzal bird applique and silver box chain, pictured.

USD 395 WWW.EUGENIAKIM.COM

VANESSA BRUNO BEACH BAG Vanessa Bruno is a fashion designer born in Denmark in the swinging sixties. After a foray into modeling she decided, in 1992 at the age of 24, to launch an eponymous label. Six years later she opened her first store in Paris, quickly followed a second in Tokyo. A combination of bohemian chic and romantic aesthetics, her bags offer an elegant take on off-duty style. This raffia Le Cabas tote, handmade in Madagascar, is topped with sequins and can be carried by hand or on the shoulder.

EUR 195 WWW.VANESSABRUNO.COM

VAGABOND BEACH TOWEL Luxury bohemian beach and lifestyle brand, Vagabond, gleans inspiration for its products from the beautiful environments that surrounds us, and celebrate nature and life. This distinctive 1.5 metre circular towel, is made of super plush 100% cotton terry velour, and is suitable for everything from a beach day, picnic, or to throw over a sofa at home. 10% of the profit from the sale of this towel goes to charities that support our oceans and wildlife.

EUR 79 WWW.VAGABONDBEACH.COM

A

Gion Matsuri www.kyotoguide.com

Airpets www.airpets.com/kennel-club-class

Glasgow School of Art www.gsa.ac.uk

Amanemu www.aman.com/resorts/amanemu

Glorious Clothing www.facebook.com/GloriousSecondHandClothing

Arctic Light Hotel www.arcticlighthotel.fi

B Battala Del Vino www.batalladelvino.com

H Hop on Hop off Bus www.hop-on-hop-off-bus.com

Bloomsday www.bloomsdayfestival.ie

Hyatt Regency Chandigarh www.chandigarh.regency.hyatt.com

Britannia Panopticon www.britanniapanopticon.org

J

C

Jet Suite www.JetSuite.com JetsMarter www.jetsmarter.com

Camel Cup www.camelcup.com.au Chapter One www.chapteronerestaurant.com

K

Citation Taverne & Restaurant www.citation-glasgow.com

Kelvingrove Art Gallery And Museum www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/kelvingrove

Citizens Theatre www.citz.co.uk

King George www.kinggeorgeathens.com

Coravin www.coravin.com

Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling www.turkishoilwrestling.net

D

Knysna Oyster Festival www.oysterfestival.co.za

Dakota Bar & Grill www.glasgow.dakotahotels.co.uk/bar-grill

L

Delano Cartagena www.morganshotelgroup.com/delano/delano-cartagena

Le Gray www.legray.com

F

Library Hotel www.libraryhotel.com

Fireworks Studio www.fireworkspots.com

Limalimo Lodge www.limalimolodge.com

G

Le Mas Candille www.lemascandille.co.uk

Luciano K www.lucianokhotel.com

Gamba www.gamba.co.uk

M

Gandolfi Fish www.cafegandolfi.com/gandolfi-fish

Maรงakizi www.macakizi.com

132 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

Matador Room www.matadorroom.com

Summer Solstice www.stonehenge.co.uk

Metropolitan www.metropolitan-bar.com

Surf Air www.surfair.com

Monorail www.monorailmusic.com

T

N

Taj Mahal www.tajmahal.gov.in

Necropolis www.glasgownecropolis.org

Tateossian www.tateossian.com

O

The Corinthian CluB www.thecorinthianclub.co.uk

One Devonshire Gardens www.hotelduvin.com/locations/glasgow/bistro

P Pride New York www.nycpride.org PrivateFly www.privatefly

Q Qt Melbourne www.qthotelsandresorts.com

R

The Modern Institute www.themoderninstitute.com The Pot Still www.thepotstill.co.uk The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/europe/budapest The Skinny www.theskinny.co.uk/ The Spiritualist www.thespiritualistglasgow.com Tintswalo Atlantic www.tintswalo.com/atlantic

V Verbier Festival www.verbierfestival.com

Rogano www.ministryofcrab.com

Victor www.flyvictor.com

Rosewood Mayakobรก www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/mayakoba-riviera-maya

W

Rox - Diamonds & Thrills www.rox.co.uk

S Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre www.sharmanka.com Sharmanka www.sharmanka.com Signature Flight Support www.signatureflight.com Sรณnar www.sonar.es/en/2016 Sonja Park www.sonjapark.org Sub Club www.subclub.co.uk

W Dubai Al Habtoor City www.wdubaialhabtoorcity.com Wheels Up www.wheelsup.com World Wife-Carrying Championships www.eukonkanto.fi/en/