The Cultured Traveller, August-September 2016 Issue 12 by The Cultured Traveller

ISSUE 12 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016

MARRAKESH INSIDE NORTH AFRICA'S ATMOSPHERIC RED CITY

ISLA HOLBOX • DUBLIN • PETRA • JACQUES AZAGURY W SOUTH BEACH • SPACE IBIZA • BRICKELL MIAMI

HIGHLIGHTS

CONTENTS

39 NORTH AFRICA’S CROWN JEWEL Alex Benasuli visits atmospheric Marrakesh, and shares with us his many years-worth of insider tips about where to venture within the old ramparts of this quintessential Moroccan city.

60 EXTREME SUITE ENVY

The Cultured Traveller road-tested W South Beach’s most prized accommodation, its spectacular 3-bedroom Extreme WOW suite - 3,000 sq. ft. of oceanfront party-pad in the heart of Florida’s hedonistic Art Deco seaside playground.

16 THE HEIGHT OF HOSPITALITY

There’s little in London to compete with spending a night at the Shangri-La at the Shard, on floors 34 to 52 of Renzo Piano's incredible 310-metre vertical glass city. Nicholas Chrisostomou reports from the country’s highest hotel.

80 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Seven miles off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, the tourist trap resorts give way to a paradise that was a hideout for 18th century pirates, and a haven for early Mayan settlers. Alex Benasuli discovers that little has changed in this idyllic oasis of Isla Holbox.

76 CLUB WORLD TO MANHATTAN

With a history as long as its jets’ contrails, British Airways has been the UK's national flag carrier for more than forty years. The Cultured Traveller flew upstairs on the work-horse of the airline's Trans-Atlantic routes - a classic Boeing 747-400 - in business class to New York.

112 ADIÓS SPACE IBIZA

On the eve of its closure after 27 years at the top of its game, The Cultured Traveller looks back at the transformation of an unassuming building in the middle of a concrete car-park on the infamous White Isle, into one of the world’s most famous clubs.

A SUITE WEEKEND 36 WIN AT GRANDE BRETAGNE

Grande Bretagne has been in the middle of Hellenic history for the entire 20th century. Win a two-night stay in a Grand Suite, including breakfasts and a sumptuous dinner at GB Roof Garden Restaurant, boasting panoramic unobstructed views of the fabled Parthenon.

KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE, MARRAKESH August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 05

14 10

08 EDITOR’S LETTER 80

Our Editor-In-Chief discusses how less is more when it comes to the kind of travel that nourishes our soul. Memory is a powerful catalyst for emotion, and re-discovering the value of simplicity can sometimes mean going back to your roots. In his words, “A fantastic holiday can be had away from the milieu, in smaller, more unique locations and personalized lodgings around the world – minus the chrome, mink and marble.”

10 NEWSFLASH

The Cultured Traveller’s round-up of the must see events, seasonal happenings and cool festivals taking place around the globe in August and September 2016, including Scotland’s Edinburgh Festival Fringe, Esala Perahera in Sri Lanka, the annual Tomatina ﬁght in the pretty Valencian town of Buñol, and the bizarre World Bog Snorkeling Championships in Wales.

14 REST YOUR HEAD Hotels featured in our August/September 2016 issue, include reborn Palm Springs hospitality legend - L’Horizon -

60 which has hosted everyone from pin-ups to presidents; the Emerald Isle’s premiere ﬁve-star resort - Ashford Castle - on Lough Corrib’s water’s edge, and Royal Automobile Club of Victoria's stunning Torquay Resort on Bells Beach, the boarding capital of Australia.

68 THE CULTURED CHAT Rubbing shoulders with rock stars and Hollywood royalty, there isn’t much that Philip Truelove - former GM of the iconic Connaught, Mercer and Chateau Marmont hotels hasn’t seen after 46 years in hospitality. Ashlee Starratt sat down with the man who’s never needed a CV, to talk history, hoteliers and his last eight years at the helm of TriBeCa’s Greenwich Hotel.

80 NO SHOES REQUIRED Seven miles off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, the tourist trap resorts give way to a paradise that even Robinson Crusoe would be hard-pressed to plot on a map. Welcome to the island of Holbox. A hideout for the 18th century pirates who sought refuge on its shores, the 1.5 kms spit of land was a haven for early

06 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

68 Mayan settlers. Alex Benasuli discovers that little has changed in this idyllic oasis.

88 SPOTLIGHT ON PETRA Nowhere is the richness of Jordan's immense history and culture more prominently on display than the spectacular ancient city of Petra, and Nicholas Chrisostomou found out that now is a good time to enjoy the Nabataeans’ ﬁnest achievement minus the usual crowds.

97 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Well past the worst of the economic crisis of 2007/8 and energetically looking to the future, the capital of the Republic of Ireland is once again a thriving, diverse metropolis, boasting one of the most colourful and multicultural populations in the world. Gordon Hickey gives us the inside craic about his vibrant home city of Dublin.

104 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER The Cultured Traveller visited the new one billion-dollar Brickell City Centre beating in the downtown heart of Miami, which has

112

CONTENTS

88 transformed the city's urban core from a dull banking ghetto into a vibrant living, shopping and dining nexus, at the epicentre of which funky new Uruguayan restaurant, Quinto La Huella, is already attracting culinary devotees.

104

112 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE On the eve of its closure after 27 years at the top of its game, The Cultured Traveller looks back at the transformation of an unassuming building in the middle of a concrete car-park on the infamous White Isle, into one of the world’s most revered clubs - Space Ibiza - as famous for its legendary open-air terrace as it is for superstar DJ Carl Cox’s 15-year residency.

118 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER After more than thirty years in the business, Knightsbridge-based couturier, Jacques Azagury, is still dressing leading ladies and stars of stage and screen in his exquisitely detailed gowns. The Cultured Traveller interviews the charming man who was Princess Diana's favourite designer, and helped to transform her into a global fashion icon.

118

Editor’s Letter It's incredible the poignancy of olfactory memory; how the scent of something positively familiar as a child, or the taste of a certain food, can bring back a blissful total recall from days long gone by. The power of recollection can instantly change one's day and lift our spirits to a contented, happy place, where our daily worries lose their dominance – at least for a short time. I was in Brighton last month (sadly for just a few days) and the sea air, fish and chips, a couple of glasses of wine with a friend, and a gander round the shops put me in as good a mood as any short-lived glitterati jet-set event that cost an awful lot more. Often it's the little things that tip us into happiness and fill us with pleasure, and spending a truckload of money on an over-fanciful vacation doesn’t always guarantee an incredible experience of ultimate relaxation. I recently visited a designer hotel in the States where I was lodged in one of the biggest suites, costing many thousands of dollars per night. Yet the welcome was not warm, the staff were like robots and there was zero connect. Had it not been for me inviting some mates from Manhattan to join me last-minute, the weekend would have turned-out a lot differently – irrespective of my plush surroundings. Whilst we peddle within these pages fancy hotels and lavish getaways, it's also important to note that a fantastic holiday can be had away from the milieu, in smaller, more unique locations and personalised lodgings around the world – minus the chrome, mink and marble. Last month I stayed at an understated 80-room hotel in TriBeCa where every single staff member I came in contact with was personable and warm beyond hospitality belief. Also, I could stuff my face full of chocolate and sweets to my heart's content and not be presented with a shocking mini-bar bill post-binge. The same goes for a small, four-bedroom, family-owned Sri Lankan hotel I love, literally on a sandy beach, where rooms cost USD 100 per night and breakfast is taken with one's feet in the sand. The moral of 08 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 the story? Sometimes, we don't have to spend a fortune to have a fabulous time, or stay in the smartest pad to have a deluxe holiday. Luxury comes in all shapes, sizes and situations, and a valuable insider tip can lead to a special experience that no amount of money can buy. In this issue, Alex Benasuli visits the North African city of Marrakesh, and gives us his many years-worth of insider tips about where to venture within the old ramparts of this charismatic Moroccan jewel, including how to barter in a souk (p39). Gordon Hickey gives us the inside craic about his vibrant home city of Dublin – once again a thriving, diverse metropolis and one of Europe's most colourful cities (p97), while Ashlee Starratt sat down with Philip Truelove, the highly-regarded hotel GM who’s never needed a CV, to talk history, 9/11 and his forty years at the helm of some of America's most iconic hotels (p68). The exciting new billion-dollar Brickell City Centre in downtown Miami has dramatically changed the city’s urban landscape, and I visited happening new Uruguayan restaurant, Quinto La Huella, in the beating heart of all the action (p104). In a Music & Night Life special feature, The Cultured Traveller takes a look at clubbing icon Space Ibiza, set to close at the end of this summer after 27 years at the forefront of the global scene (p112). We chat with Jacques Azagury, one of the most distinguished couturiers of the 20th and 21st centuries, who helped transform Princess Diana into an international fashion icon, and continues to dress some of today’s most stylish women (p118). Finally, our loyal readers can enter to win a 5-star weekend in the heart of the historic Greek capital, for an unparalleled stay in a suite at Athens’ top hotel, the Grande Bretagne (p36). We hope you’ve packed light as The Cultured Traveller brings the world, to you.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-In-Chief

NEXT ISSUE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016

SECOND ANNIVERSARY EDITION

Contributors Alex Benasuli Lives: London Wrote: City Focus on Marrakesh

Petra

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

Ashlee Starratt Lives: Doha Wrote: The Cultured Chat

Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

Gordon Hickey Lives: Dublin Wrote: Traveller Lowdown on Dublin

Dublin

Isla Holbox

Dublin native Gordon may have spent the past decade working as a TV producer, but has spent twenty years in front of the camera exploring the world. Fascinated with maps and geography as a child, he went on his first solo trip to Italy at the tender age of 14 and hasn’t looked back since. Eating his way around the globe and sampling local street cuisine sees Gordon at his happiest. When he’s not on a plane heading to a foreign destination, you'll find him exploring every historical corner of his Irish homeland.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nicholas Chrisostomou CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Kalia Michaelides SENIOR DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON THE WEB www.TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/TheCulturedTraveller ADVERTISING ads@theculturedtraveller.com EDITORIAL words@theculturedtraveller.com

SHAMBHALA CANADA

One of Canada’s longest running and largest electronic underground music fes vals, Shambhala was established in 1998 by the Bundschuh family which has worked hard to make the annual gathering what it is today. Shambhala is unique in the arena of music fes vals, in that it is alcohol-free, run by volunteers and receives no corporate sponsorship, allowing the fes val to retain a true reflec on of the people on the dance floor and their vision of what their party community feels like. You will not see one adver sement or corporate logo on the Salmo River Ranch fes val site, a 500-acre working farm year round, which is home to cows, horses, farm dogs, pigs, chickens and miniature donkeys. Gardens

MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL

EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE

Four hours drive from Boston, the 69th annual non-profit celebra on of all things lobster, is held in the classic American working harbour town of Rockland. What began nearly seventy years ago as an ini a ve to revive local Midcoast Maine marine communi es, has turned into an interna onally recognised celebra on of local seafood. This family-orientated fes val consists of a parade, live music acts, a 10km road race, arts and cra s, not to men on the consump on of more than 20,000lb of cooked lobster, as well as clams, calamari, scallops and haddock, all freshly sourced from the Atlan c Ocean. Maine Lobster Fes val is without doubt a marine crustacean-lovers culinary dream. 3 - 7 August 2016 www.mainelobsterfes val.com

The Fringe began in 1947, when eight alterna ve theatre companies arrived uninvited and proceeded to perform on the edges of the inaugural Edinburgh Interna onal Fes val, which was the main event. The following year more groups arrived to perform - again uninvited - and were documented by playwright Robert Kemp,

USA

SCOTLAND

and hay fields are the normal business aﬀairs from September through July. This year’s line-up includes Swiss deep and indie house sensa on, Nora En Pure, and Chicago DJ/producer Felix Da Housecat. 5 - 8 August 2016 www.shambhalamusicfes val.com

ESALA PERAHERA SRI LANKA

as performing “round the fringe of the official fes val” which is how the Fringe got its name. Now the world's largest arts fes val - sprawling and diverse with a he y dose of crazy - true to its founding spirit, the Fringe is open to anyone who can afford to get to the diverse Sco sh capital in August. So expect to see student theatre companies next to TV celebs, comedians performing alongside jazz musicians, and complete novices vying for the crowds' affec ons slap bang next to seasoned pros. 5 - 29 August 2016 www.edfringe.com 10 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

One of the oldest, grandest and most important fes vals in the Buddhist calendar, Esala Perahera is held in the revered UNESCO World Heritage city of Kandy, the country's second largest metropolis, located in the middle of the island. The fes val is based on an ancient legend, that a tooth, stolen from the Lord Buddha's funeral pyre during the 4th century AD and smuggled from India to Sri Lanka, is now kept in Kandy's Sri Dalada Maligawa, The Temple Of The Sacred Tooth Relic, which is itself a renowned pilgrimage site. Famous for its large processions of dancers, flag bearers, drummers, fire eaters, acrobats and colorfully-adorned silk-costumed elephants, with each night this ten day fes val gets more animated and the

WAY OUT WEST SWEDEN

Billed as “mulধ-genre madness in Sweden”, for three days and nights every year, an idyllic parkland seষng in south west Gothenburg welcomes arধsts from the worlds of rock, pop, urban and electro

OBON

JAPAN

Celebrated in Japan for more than half a millennia, Obon is an occasion to commemorate one's ancestors, and is based on a Buddhist legend that tells of the spirits of the deceased returning to earth to visit their families. The main Awa Odori part of Obon lasts for three days every 13 - 15 August at Tokushima on Shikoku Island. Obon week is one of Japan's three major, annual holiday seasons. Obon involves the rituals of hanging chochin lanterns in front of houses to guide in the ancestors' spirits, visi ng graves, making food oﬀerings at home altars and temples, and performing the tradi onal folk dance, bon odori. Obon ends with the

beau ful ritual of Toro Nagashi, during which hundreds of candlelit lanterns are released into the ocean, rivers and lakes, floa ng away and carrying ancestors' spirits back to the a erlife. 11 - 16 August 2016 www.japan-guide.com

MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW music to perform by day on five stages around a duck-filled lake, surrounded by a huge variety of food stalls and bars. Fesধval-goers spend their days kicking back in the sun and enjoying the live performances, before spilling out into the city's throbbing bars and clubs for Stay Out West's infamous ađer parধes. This year's Way Out West is headlined by Grace Jones, Morrissey and Sia, whilst The Avalanches, Beach Slang and Ana Diaz are just a few of the dozens of DJs and acts filling the late night line-ups. Meanwhile film screenings, art exhibiধons and lectures seek to re-energise minds amidst all the rampant partying. 7 - 9 August 2016 www.wayoutwest.se/en

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

In the ferধle Wahgi Valley in central mainland Papua New Guinea, every year since 1964 the city of Mount Hagen (named ađer the old volcano) has hosted one of the largest sing-sings

(tribal gatherings) in the country, during the third weekend of August. Staged in the Kagamuga Show Ground (conveniently located next to Mount Hagen’s airport) and with more than one hundred tribes in aħendance, the concept of this peaceful event is preħy simple: each tribe - clad in elaborate body paint, extravagant colourful headdresses, and jewellery fashioned from bones, tusks and shells - shares their cultural tradiধons through costume, dancing and music, and performs its own primal dance based on its own unique legend. The winning performance is the one that receives the most applause and biggest crowd reacধon. 20 - 21 August 2016 www.pngtours.com

WORLD BOG SNORKELLING CHAMPIONSHIPS WALES

crowds get bigger, closing with a “water cuষng” ceremony at the Mahaweli Ganga River, ritualising the divide between pure and impure and honouring the water gods for a good year ahead. 8 - 18 August 2016 www.lanka.com

Since 1985, for more than thirty years, the small Welsh town of Llanwrtyd Wells has played host to the World Bog Snorkeling Championships. This rather unusual compe on requires individuals to swim two lengths of a 55-metre water-filled trench - cut through the middle of the weed-infested Waen Rhydd peat bog - in the shortest possible me. Bizarrely what started as a charity event has grown over the past three decades, and now sees around 150 crazy people throw themselves into the murky waters. The rules s pulate that compe tors must wear a snorkel and flippers and complete their swim without using any conven onal swimming strokes. The fastest in both ladies and mens categories are declared the winners. The

2015 men's event was won by England's Haydn Pitchforth, whose me of one minute 26 seconds was four seconds slower than the world record, set in 2014 by England's Kirsty Johnson. 28 August 2016 www.green-events.co.uk

BURNING MAN USA

Each year for one week, Nevada's unforgiving Black Rock desert of Gerlach springs to life when 60,000 revelers come together for Burning Man, the largest outdoor arts fes val in North America.

Described as the ul mate culmina on of community, art, self-expression and self-reliance, par cipants join in the eﬀort to co-create Black Rock City, a temporary metropolis dedicated to art and togetherness. The fes val celebrates alterna ve lifestyles through music, art and the unique comradery that develops during the gathering. The vision is to “bring experiences to people in grand, awe-inspiring and joyful ways that li the human spirit, address social problems and inspire a sense of culture, community and personal engagement.” The event's name comes from the ritual burning of a wooden eﬃgy which occurs on the Saturday night. This year the fes val's 30th anniversary - will see “The Man” burn on 3rd September. 28 August - 5 September 2016 www.burningman.org

LA TOMATINA SPAIN

Now in it's 71st year and a ended by approximately 30,000 people annually, La Toma na basically involves par cipants hurling more than 100 tons of overripe Spanish tomatoes at each other. Held in the pre y Valencian town of Buñol, on the east coast of Spain, La Toma na is essen ally a giant food fight on the last Wednesday of August. The firing of a water canon heralds the start of the tomato throwing, and exactly one hour later a second firing signals the end. There are conflic ng stories about how the fes val began: some say it happened when two boys got into a fight during a parade and began lobbing tomatoes from a vegetable stand at each other. Others believe the tomatoes were thrown to protest about

an unfavorable decision by the city council, or launched at a par cularly bad musician! 31 August 2016 www.latoma na.org

OUTLOOK CROATIA

During five days towards the end of summer, what is billed as “the largest sound system culture fes val in Europe” brings together some of the biggest names from the most vibrant and cu ng edge

hip-hop, grime, reggae, techno and dub music scenes, in a celebratory fusion of musical genres, held in the abandoned 19th-century Fort Punta Christo, perched above the dazzling Adria c Sea, close to the historic city of Pula in Croa a’s northern region of Istria. Party goers can chose to let rip in a collec on of truly spectacular loca ons - set in and around the fort - including a dungeon, a courtyard, a moat, a boat, the beach or the fes val’s main stage set on a harbour. Outlook combines a heady mix of fun in the sun and under the stars sound sensa ons. Now in its ninth year, the 2016 line-up includes Bri sh legends Norman Jay and Goldie, both awarded the MBE for their services to music. 31 August - 4 September 2016 www.outlookfes val.com

CURE SALÉE NIGER

Every September the 500 townsfolk of In-Gall, in the Agadez region of northeast Niger, grows to upwards of 50,000 as nomads and their herds make the pilgrimage to the ny West African town to celebrate the annual gathering that serves as a harvest fes val, a marketplace, a gathering of the tribes, and most importantly a spectacular male beauty parade in an effort to be named the most a rac ve man of their clan. Here the roles are reversed and it is the men who paint their faces, don tradi onal ceremonial costumes, and sing and dance in an effort to impress the female judges. The talent por on of the show, known as Yaake, is akin to line dancing, with men standing shoulder-to-shoulder, swaying, singing and chan ng in a hypno c fashion, fuelled by a s mula ng tea made of fermented bark, rumored to have a hallucinogenic effect, enabling them to dance wildly, o en for hours on end. The exact date in September of Cure Salée changes every year, dependent upon the strength of the rains, and is announced approximately one month before. September 2016 12 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

ONAM INDIA

According to popular legend, Onam harvest fesধval is celebrated to welcome King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the beginning of Chingam, the first month of the Hindu Malayalam calendar, at a ধme when ađer three months of heavy rains in India, the skies become clear and blue again, forests turn a lush deep green, lakes and rivers overflow, and lotuses and lilies are in full bloom. People put flower mats in front of their houses to welcome the King, reap the harvest, celebrate and rejoice. Acধviধes during Onam are centered around worshipping, music, dancing, sports, boat races and above all else, eaধng good food. The most impressive part of the fesধval is the grand nine-course feast called Onasadya, prepared on Thiruvonam, consisধng of up to 13 essenধal dishes. Onasadya is served on banana leaves and people sit on a mat laid on the floor to partake of the vast meal. 3 September 2016 www.onamfesধval.org

GALUNGAN INDONESIA

Galungan symbolises the victory of virtue (dharma) over evil (adharma), whilst honouring the creator of the universe (Ida Sang Hyang Widi) and the spirits of the ancestors. This is the most important annual feast for Balinese Hindus, and the holiday is symbolised by the fi ng of tall bamboo poles called 'penjor' on the right side of every house entrance, splendidly decorated with woven young coconut leaves, fruit, cakes and flowers. At each gate you'll also find small bamboo altars set up especially for the holiday, each one bearing woven palm-leaf oﬀerings for the

spirits. People are a red in their finest clothes and jewels on the first day of Galungan. The fes vi es go on for ten days, ending with Kuningan, bringing the holiday period to an end with a special ritual ceremony held for the ancestral spirits as they ascend back to heaven. 7 - 17 September 2016 www.balispirit.com

OKTOBERFEST GERMANY

Drink beer by the litre, feast on tradiধonal Bavarian foods (including pretzels 15 inches in diameter), be entertained by live brass bands, and carouse away the days and nights with hundreds of other revelers

from all over the globe, at the world's largest Volksfest, held annually in Munich in Germany. Oktoberfest is a 16-day folk fesধval running from mid September through to the first weekend in October, held in the Theresienwiese area, ođen called the Wiesn for short, located near Munich's city centre. Now in its 183rd year, the mammoth beer fest now boasts a slightly more internaধonal flavour characterisধc of the 21st-century, featuring more speciality German beers (Paulaner, Augusধner and other Oktoberfest-approved brews), accompanied by more Sauerkraut and Weisswurst than one can possibly imagine! 17 September - 3 October 2016 www.oktoberfest.de/en/

LAKE OF STARS MALAWI

This dis nctly African gathering was founded in 2004 by Bri sh tourist, Will Jameson, who first visited Malawi as a student in 1998 on a gap year working with The Wildlife Society. Upon returning to college in the UK, Jameson started a clubnight called Chibuku Shake Shake - the name of a Malawian beer. Mixmag named Chibuku Shake Shake the UK's best clubnight in 2004, and the same year Jameson staged his first fes val on the shores of Lake Malawi. Ten years later Lake Of Stars was named one of the top seven African music fes vals by CNN, and the following year Time Out named the fes val's loca on as the most beau ful in

the world. Now an annual three-day interna onal event, a rac ng thousands of a endees and featuring musical acts from Africa and the UK, past headliners have included Andy Cato of Groove Armada, Beverley Knight, Bombay Bicycle Club, Felix B of Basement Jaxx and much-celebrated Cape Town DJ duo, Goldfish. 30 September - 2 October 2016 www.lakeofstars.org

Rest Your Head

Palm Springs, London, Shanghai, ValparaĂso, Siem Riep, Monemvasia, Punta del Este, Rotterdam, Lough Corrib, Santa Catarina, Brussels, Torquay

PALM SPRINGS L’HORIZON RESORT AND SPA If you’re going to rest your head in the lap of luxury, you might as well make sure your name’s cast in bronze above the door. At L’Horizon in Palm Springs, this is one of the opulent details that have made it a playground to the stars since the Hollywood hey-day of the fifties and sixties. Built in 1952 by legendary Desert Modern architect William F. Cody, as a retreat for Hollywood producer Jack Wrather and his gang of Tinseltown types, L’Horizon has hosted everyone from pin-ups to presidents, with Ronald Reagan, Betty Grable, the Nixons and Marilyn Monroe all leaving their iconic marks. Set on four acres of desert land a couple of miles from downtown, L’Horizon recently underwent a major face-lift courtesy of prolific celebrity designer Steven Hermann, who reinvented the iconic Palm Springs hospitality legend as a chic high-style retreat that it seems the city was craving for years. With 25 private bungalows dotted across the property, Hermann effectively reimagined L’Horizon as a sprawling 25-bedroom house. No two rooms are the same, and residential-grade furnishings were mixed with collectible vintage and new modern pieces, hand-sewn hide-on-hair rugs, lighting by Brendan Ravenhill and original artworks, together with bespoke items from small-batch manufacturers, thus creating completely individual suites where guests experience utter privacy and tranquility in their own secluded domains. Culinary connoisseurs will appreciate the recent appointment of executive chef Chris Anderson to oversee L’Horizon’s al fresco SO•PA restaurant, where a massive but delicate Lindsey Adelman chandelier hangs over a 22-foot walnut communal table. A disciple of French master Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, Michelin-starred Anderson has unveiled an invigorated menu that showcases the best of seasonal American ingredients. As for the hotel’s creature comforts, Hermann has outfitted every room with Frette robes, towels and slippers, 600-thread-count bedding, Le Labo bath products, and Dean & DeLuca minibar goodies. There are even complimentary foot and back massages poolside where you can sip a G&T, watch the moon rise over the San Jacinto Mountains, and enjoy the bliss at this adults-only resort to the stars. It’s hard to imagine Marilyn and Betty ever had it so good. ASHLEE STARRATT www.lhorizonpalmsprings.com

LONDON

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, AT THE SHARD There is little to compete, in London at least, with spending a night at the Shangri-La at the Shard, within Renzo Piano’s 310-metre vertical city of offices, hotel accommodation, apartment homes and at the very top, the capital's highest viewing platforms, offering visitors unparalleled 360-degree views for up to 40 miles. Made up of 11,000 glass panels and with 44 lifts, it took just 25 seconds to ascend to the Shangri-La’s 35th floor “sky lobby” reception. The hotel occupies floors 34 to 52 of Western Europe's tallest tower, and guests are accommodated in 185 oversized rooms (which average over 40sqm) plus 17 suites. Staying at the Shangri-La, you really can't get a hotel room much closer to the clouds, and the sweeping views across London are quite literally breathtaking. So much so, that not long after I was showed to my lodgings, and confronted by spectacular 180-degree views through vast floor-to-ceiling glass windows, from the London Eye to the left right across the City around to Canary Wharf, I contemplated cancelling my lunch date in favor of sitting at my desk, which felt like it was hovering above Tower Bridge. It wasn't a difficult decision. Cancelling lunch at a Chelsea restaurant - which would have meant me crossing town in a slow-moving taxi - or spending an afternoon in my room, gazing out at the incredible views. To be honest I didn't get much work done, because even on a typically wet and grey London day, the capital looked spectacular from my private 48th floor observation deck. Directly beneath me were the new extension to the Tate Modern, HMS Belfast and the world’s most famous bridge. Just across the river were St. Paul’s, Lloyds, the Gherkin and the Tower of London. In fact in every direction I looked was a landmark that I hadn't seen for years, or certainly never seen from such a height. The problem with Londoners is that everyone rushes around so fast all the time, they rarely pause for breath or take in their surroundings. Despite being London born and raised, I had forgotten what most of the capital's landmarks looked like, until I was staying at the Shangri-La, when it was a glorious revelation to rediscover the city from above. Powerful binoculars were sitting on my desk to get a better view of the surrounding sights. On a clear day I imagine I'd easily have been able to see the planes landing at Heathrow. The décor in my oversized Iconic City View Room could best described as plush contemporary, super comfortable and very user friendly. It was bigger than most suites. I loved the large desk and ergonomic chair. I hate hotel rooms with too many buttons, a useless desk, a stupid amount of pillows on the bed, or curtains that don't keep out the light properly. My Shangri-La accommodation didn't suffer from any of these faults, and at the touch of a button could be closed-off from the outside world by electric blinds - incorporated within the fabric of the building - which were completely blackout. In fact when I woke the next morning I first thought it was still the middle of the night. Behind the huge bed was a large marble bathroom with heated flooring, separate bathtub, glass shower cabin, Acqua di Parma amenities and a Japanese turbo bidet-toilet creation, sporting a digital control panel offering various treatments. Behind the bathroom, close to the entrance, was a dressing area spacious enough to park a double bed. The club sandwich I ordered from room service was delivered by friendly staff and cost a very reasonable GBP 16 for a hotel of Shangri-La's standard. I've always said that you can rate a hotel based on the quality of its club sandwich, Caesar salad and burger. Unsurprisingly for London's most spectacular hotel, located in what is already one of Europe's most iconic towers, the club sandwich that day was perfect in every way. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.shangri-la.com/london

SHANGHAI THE PULI HOTEL AND SPA Far East meets far out in the heart of China’s pulsating cultural and global financial hub, where Western customs and Chinese traditions meet at the crossroads of daily life. To say Shanghai is multicultural is to paint the city in broad strokes; hugging the shores of the Yangtze River Delta, as China’s largest metropolis more than 24 million people call its city limits home. A center for European foreign trade since the mid 19th century when the British found victory over China in the First Opium War, and then, later, with the expansion of the French Concession, it’s European influence remains. Walk along the iconic waterfront of the Bund and take in the colonial-era buildings, reminders of a past that’s never far from the edges of the present. But modern Shanghai is an architect’s playground, with 288 skyscrapers punctuating its neon skyline. Central to its downtown hospitality core is The PuLi Hotel and Spa, a traveler’s urban oasis amid the fray of the city’s Jing’an commercial district. With 229 spacious rooms and suites (square footage starts at 484 feet), its glass tower makes it a contemporary landmark, while its 105-foot lobby offers a striking first impression, with muted colour schemes, an outdoor terrace and Long Bar, floor-to-ceiling windows and Zen-like paintings. The open-plan guest rooms anchor modern aesthetics with Oriental accents. Glass and Chinese silk panels separate the bath and bedroom spaces, while wood lattice privacy screens, and limestone-tile details add welcome earthy elements. The PuLi’s reputation as an urban luxury resort is well-earned; home to the first Anantara spa in Shanghai, guests can luxuriate in the infinity pool, pamper themselves with a lush body treatment, or enjoy a moment of solitude amongst the spa’s 2,500-volume library. Foodies will find their palate refreshed at the hotel’s signature PHÉNIX restaurant, run by executive chef Michael Wilson, as they dine on intuitive French cuisine revitalised with a refreshing, modern twist. Round-off dinner off with a glass of bubbly at the hotel’s 32-metre Long Bar, which boasts one of the most extensive wine and champagne lists in the city. ASHLEE STARRATT www.thepuli.com

18 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

M AY FA I R CHIC MEETS EAST LONDON STYLE E X PERIENCE THE NE W S TAN DAR D OF LUXURY AN D GL A MOUR IN THE HE AR T OF THE CIT Y - DE VONSHIRE CLUB, LON DON’S NE WE S T AN D CONFI DENTLY DIS TINC TI V E PRI VATE MEMBER S’ CLUB

Located on Devonshire Square, the spacious yet welcoming 60,000sq ft Club features 68 Luxury Bedrooms and Suites, along with elegant member lounges and characterful bars; a stunning brasserie; a state of the art fitness & wellness centre; as well as beautiful gardens and a large covered terrace. Book now to stay in one of our Club Rooms and experience this exceptional addition to London life. Quote code “CULTUR3D” for a discount on your stay. T&Cs apply. Contact: stay@devonshire.club or 0203 750 4545 for enquiries and bookings.

4+5 DEVONSHIRE SQUARE, LONDON, EC2M 4YD

160726_DC_CT_Ad_225x290mm_02.indd 1

INFO@DEVONSHIRE.CLUB +44 (0)20 3750 4545

26/07/2016 18:09

VALPARAÍSO

FAUNA Less than a two hour drive from the capital of Santiago and 90kms from SCL airport, the port city of Valparaíso on the Pacific coast of Central Chile - well known for it's funicular railways and brightly coloured cliff-top homes - is alive with 21st century avant-garde culture and teeming with vibrant street art and music, fuelled by a young artistic underbelly. Whereas Santiago is all about the business of government and finance, Valparaíso is infinitely more laid-back, bohemian and creative, and is spread across a series of hillsides that form a natural amphitheatre overlooking the sea. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, Valparaíso's location in the middle of important shipping routes has made it an important port town for hundreds of years, since well before the completion of the Panama Canal. Its streets are still pleasingly ramshackle in parts and it has the vague tattiness that often characterises large ports. Chilean artists, writers and musicians have long made Valparaíso their home, drawn to its picturesque location and unique Latin-bohemian character. Located in the historic and tightly-packed Cerro Alegre conservation area, the hub of the growing gallery scene, Fauna was skillfully converted just over five years ago, from old, run-down housing into a hotel and restaurant, by architects Fantuzzi + Rodillo, which managed to retain the characteristic architectural style of Valparaíso’s houses, and take advantage of the complexity of the original buildings, without making significant changes to the structure or altering the footprint. The result is bright, contemporary guest rooms in four categories - including a one-bedroom suite - laid with wooden floors, brimming with clever features and finished-off with all the mod cons a busy traveller needs. On the fourth floor, a cool café and cocktail bar offers panoramic vistas towards the sea and makes the most of the sunset views over the city. Surrounding Fauna are cobbled streets lined with clapboard houses in kaleidoscopic colours. In fact this unique hotel’s location - within walking distance of Piedra Feliz, Reloj de Flores and the must see Fonck and Palacio Baburizza museums - make Fauna the perfect base from which to explore Valparaíso in all it's vibrant, energetic and characterful glory. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.faunahotel.cl August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 21

SIEM RIEP

PHUM BAITANG Cambodia is a land that time forgot. Nestled under its canopied jungles is a living history of an era when the Hindu-Buddhist rulers of the Khmer Empire built temples unto their deities. The largest of these, Angkor Wat, lies less than six kilometres outside of Siem Riep in the country’s northeast province. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, at 162.6 hectares it’s the largest religious monument in the world, transitioning from a Hindu stronghold to a Buddhist temple in the 12th century, with a self-sustaining irrigation system so advanced for its time it remains a feat of engineering to this day. Temple trekkers looking for a sweet escape from the humid confines of its labyrinthine domain, yet preferring to avoid the neon nightlife crush of Siem Riep, can find their refuge at Phum Baitang. The latest Southeast Asian property from French group Zannier Hotels, this ‘green village’ is a throwback to the Khmer townships that dotted the region during the Golden Age of the empire in the 12th century. Comprised of 45 stilted, thatched-roof villas, Phum Baitang spreads out over eight acres of abundant gardens and terraced rice paddies, offering guests a tropical retreat where wellness goes hand-in-hand with relaxation. Visitors can traverse the property in traditional tuk-tuks and explore the resort’s leisure facilities which include a 50-metre infinity pool, holistic spa, fitness and yoga pavilion, and a cocktail and cigar lounge within a restored 100-year-old farmhouse. Rooms are lush and earthy, with egg-shaped baths carved from stone, traditional woven mats and private plunge pools in Terrace and Pool Villas. With Angkor Wat only a few kilometres away the resort is situated in a prime location for tourists wanting the best of both worlds when it comes to sightseeing and relaxation. Travel from the hotel to nearby Tonlé Sap - the world’s largest freshwater lake - and discover the cultural outposts of its floating villages and fishing towns. We especially love the cooking classes offered at Phum Baitang, with the hotel’s resident chef taking guests to market on a culinary journey celebrating the local ingredients that are the backbone of traditional Khmer cuisine. A stay at Phum Baitang is truly a feast for all the senses. ASHLEE STARRATT www.phumbaitang.com

MONEMVASIA

KINSTERNA HOTEL & SPA Its name meaning “single entrance” in Greek, Monemvasia’s only link to the mainland of southern Greece is a narrow, 200m causeway. Monemvasia is almost an island. To reach this Grecian gem, off the east coast of the Peloponnese, it’s best to travel by road from Athens, which takes about four hours. Sometimes ferries call, sometimes they don’t. If you’re thinking of going and don’t have your own transport, the hotels or a good travel agent will give you the latest advice about what’s running. For train-lovers, there’s a quirky little railway that follows a circular route around the Peloponnese from Athens, but you’d still need to combine that with a journey on wheels. There are also luxury cruises that sometimes call at this hidden, Byzantine fortress town. Poet Yiannis Ritsos once called Monemvasia “a ship of stone”, and those who have visited rave about its rugged beauty, that provides a complete escape from the real world. If you really do need to unplug, hide out on the island and spend your days looking for traces of Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Ottoman influences in town, which boasts impressive architecture and history at almost every turn. Just a few kilometres out of town is Kinsterna Hotel & Spa, on one of the four fingers of the Peloponnese that make up this gorgeous, less-visited corner of Southern Greece. Kinsterna opened in 2010 just before the country economic woes reached crisis point. Whilst any other hotel might have suffered, the Kinsterna has thrived, not least because the stunning 13th century manor house - the former estate of an Ottoman judge - was skillfully renovated to both blend in perfectly with its surroundings and provide an oasis in the Hellenic landscape, winning countless accolades in the process. Kinsterna’s main buildings are a historical hotchpotch of characterful architecture from different periods. Inside the lovingly restored stone walls, interiors are sparsely furnished and walls decorated with a muted palette of earthy colours, punctuated with sparkling Venetian crystal chandeliers, ornate mirrors and funky 21st century Philippe Starck polycarbonate furniture. Many of Kinsterna’s 27 suites have vaulted ceilings and most have original fireplaces. The Kinsterna Suite, whose rooms are the largest, affords its inhabitants spectacular views across the Aegean Sea and surrounding groves and orchards. The hotel’s natural cool spring water source has been cleverly channeled to create a large, river-like swimming pool that sits at the heart of the mansion. The water that runs down through the walls and into gurgling troughs and deep wells is one of the most magical things about the Kinsterna. In places, the floors are cut away and paneled with glass so you can see the tiny streams that lie beneath, the sound of trickling water so peaceful and relaxing you may never want to return to the real world. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.kinsternahotel.gr 24 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

PUNTA DEL ESTE HOTEL FASANO LAS PIEDRAS Hugging the Atlantic coast of Uruguay’s Maldonado region, Punta del Este is a beachcomber’s paradise and a sun-worshipper’s temple. Named ‘Country Of The Year’ in 2013 by The Economist, the small nation of almost 3.5 million leads its Latin American brethren in the rankings for peace, democracy and lack of corruption. Though would you really expect anything less from a country whose former President, José Mujica, donated 90 percent of his monthly salary to charity? It’s this spirit of generosity and hospitality that’s pulling more and more tourists to Uruguay’s shores, and for those who find themselves dropping anchor along the sand-spits of Punta del Este, Hotel Fasano Las Piedras should be their home-away-from-home. A lush hospitality complex comprising rustic hotel bungalows and condominiums seemingly carved into the living rock of the 480-acre sprawling, arid landscape, it’s a welcome sanctuary for those seeking a balance between beach and countryside. Guests can get a taste of traditional Uruguayan gaucho culture at the complex’s equestrian centre and meander the banks of the Arroyo Maldonado on horseback; or have a round on the superb course designed by Arnold Palmer, before indulging in a intensely relaxing treatment at the hotel’s bucolic spa. A sense of back-to-nature solitude is the hallmark of the resort’s ethos and it’s an element that Brazilian restaurateur and hotelier Rogério Fasano has strived to incorporate throughout this development. Each of the complex’s 20 stand-alone bungalows are scattered around the terrain like polished stones, each boasting an unhindered view of the striking landscape. Locanda Fasano, a single building containing 10 guest suites, is strategically located atop a vast plateau with one of the region’s most spectacular vistas. The décor of each bungalow and suite connects them to nature, with rich wood floorings, simplistic furnishings, neutral colour palates and pools of natural light throughout. A poolside bar at the resort’s main lodge offers cocktail hour with unparalleled vistas, while Fasano Restaurant - built on the highest point of the property - serves regional Italian cuisine to rival its São Paulo counterparts. Staying amongst surroundings that so commune with nature, here you’ll undoubtedly find your balance quickly restored. ASHLEE STARRATT www.laspiedrasfasano.com

NHOW ROTTERDAM Holland's infamous port city may now in fact be one the hippest places in the country. Carpet-bombed in the Second World War, its beautiful historic centre left in shreds, officials started rebuilding plans four days after the blitz, and radically decided against reconstructing as it was (a medieval city in the shadow of Amsterdam), instead plumping to create a laboratory of urban design and planning. A Dutch metropolitan experiment, if you will. Inevitably, big names queued for the chance to go wild in the new Rotterdam, and today the Dutch port is now on many a must-see list for its unique design sensibility and edgy architecture. With scores of Amsterdammers regularly visiting Rotterdam to party, and a maker mindset that evolved out of necessity, the city has become a place of non-stop design, creativity and innovation, and most probably the coolest place in Holland, with one of the world’s largest harbours and the only metropolis in the country with a Manhattan-style silhouette. One of the latest additions to the city’s skyline is Rem Koolhaas’ De Rotterdam buildings, opened in 2014. The three towers are arranged in subtly irregular clusters that seem to separate and merge from different perspectives. The buildings contain apartments and offices and also house Nhow Rotterdam hotel. What is unusual about Nhow Rotterdam is that Koolhaas, the building’s architect, also designed the interiors, and he insisted that within the rooms, the furniture should be low so as to not interrupt the incredible city views across the waters. Nhow Rotterdam’s message is that art and architecture make our lives better, and the décor reflects what Rotterdam is all about: i.e. don’t be afraid of letting go of the past by destroying ugly buildings and erecting new ones. Regular art exhibitions are staged in-house, with an emphasis on supporting local designers’ work, and the hotel’s reception area frequently changes to support this initiative. Humorous messages abound throughout the hotel, communicating with guests in a quirky fashion, giving Nhow Rotterdam a pleasingly unique and relaxed atmosphere throughout. If only more hotels in the world were as laidback and outgoing as Nhow Rotterdam, the business of hospitality would be so much more fun! NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.nhow-rotterdam.com 26

ROTTERDAM

ASHFORD CASTLE Where rolling green hills meet the placid glass of Lough Corrib’s water’s edge, time stands still at Ashford Castle. The Emerald Isle’s premiere five-star resort, its roughened ramparts have stood sentinel since the 13th century, making it a brush with history for those cultured travellers seeking to explore all 350 of its rambling acres. Constructed in 1228 as a medieval fortress for the Anglo-Norman House of Burke, the castle was purchased in the 19th century by the Guinness family, when it became their country estate before being gifted to the Irish government in 1939. Now under the ownership of family-run Red Carnation Hotels, the castle boasts 83 rooms and suites, alongside a private Hideaway Cottage nestled on the shores of Lough Corrib – a honeymoon haven to rival the best of them. The hotel’s sumptuous rooms have been upgraded with rich fabrics, royal jewel-tone colour schemes, ornate antiques, custom carpets, and bespoke furniture that harkens back to the castle’s golden era. Discerning guests can rest their head in a four-poster bed, enjoy a deep soak in a claw-foot tub, and luxuriate over a glass of brandy in front of a stone fireplace. Upon checking-in in the majestic Oak Hall, guests are met with a shaggy welcome courtesy of the hotel’s two, towering Irish wolfhounds, Cronan and Garvan (who have their own Instagram account!), while couples seeking to tie the knot can do so against the backdrop of a flutter of wings, as Dingle the castle owl 28

LOUGH CORRIB

swoops in to deliver the rings. Ashford Castle’s lush grounds are a retreat for the outdoorsman, as guests can try on the past-times of the nobility for size, with falconry, fishing, archery and equestrian activities available. Meanwhile modern-day bon vivants can make use of the estate’s Eddie Hackett-designed 9-hole, par-35 golf course surrounded by magical woodlands, tennis courts or zip-line, or explore the hotel’s state-of-the-art spa and fitness centre housed in a beautiful bronze conservatory. A culinary bastion for gourmands and locavores alike, the property boasts a dozen food and dining outlets catering to every palate. Afternoon tea has been a castle custom since 1868 and is not to be missed, while the George V Dining Room offers a royal taste of Irish tradition. After dinner head to The Prince Of Wales Bar to enjoy your favourite tipple or a pint of Guinness. As close to nature and history as you’ll find anywhere in Ireland, Ashford Castle is the jewel in the heart of County Mayo. From fortress to film set (John Ford’s 1951 movie The Quiet Man starring John Wayne was filmed on-site), here you’ll find your respite and retreat in one of the country’s most unique locales, where Irish eyes are always smiling. ASHLEE STARRATT www.ashfordcastle.com

SANTA CATARINA PONTA DOS GANCHOS Any hotel where the staff outnumber the guests three to one, and the only rule is that there are no rules, has got to be somewhere a cultured traveller must experience at least once in a lifetime. A visit to the private paradise of Ponta Dos Ganchos, 20 miles south of Florianopolis, is to experience ultimate beachside luxury on a secluded stretch of idyllic Brazilian beach, where sunsets sparkle and breakfast lasts all day. This relaxed, adults-only rainforest retreat is located on its own eight-hectare eucalyptus, bamboo and palm-filled peninsula, fringed by choppy shores and oyster farms. 25 pink-ochre eco-roofed bungalows are positioned amongst the lush greenery and slopes, perched above the shimmering Atlantic, each completely private, many with hammocks on the terrace, some with pools or hot tubs. Ponta dos Ganchos is family-owned, run by Nicolas Peluffo and his sister Virginia, both of whom take great pride in its tranquility, unostentatious luxury and sustainability. In 2011 Ponta dos Ganchos was awarded the rarely given ISO 14.001 standard for sustainable development; that more than 90 per cent of the employees are trained from the neighbourhood; and it is always trying to bridge the traditional gap between what guests want and what suits the management. The resort's designer was Nicolas and Virginia's mother, architect Elianne Klenner, who died in her early fifties in 2011. Her legacy is not only in the rustic-modernist look and the level of comfort in each bungalow, but also in their unexpectedly homely ambience. Interiors are carefully arranged spaces, designed to make the most of the stunning location and verdant natural surroundings. Beyond double showers with huge heads and sliding doors to the world outside, a sauna and Jacuzzi sit next to a glass wall. The views from each bungalow's wide deck - over mussel and oyster beds and the enormous blue bay towards the hills in the distance - is utterly enchanting and impossible to tear yourself away from. Breakfast - with an optional tasting menu - is available all day, dinner all night, and meals are served virtually whenever guests want. You can wear what you like when you like, and even if you never want to emerge from your bungalow, the charming staff - nearly all of whom come from the fishing village at the bottom of the hill - will miraculously tidy up without you noticing. Santa Catarina is unlike anywhere else in Brazil. There are native Germans, Italians, Poles, Russians, Japanese, Greeks, Irish, Indians, Africans and many more - most of whom arrived during the 19th century, lured by the lucrative whaling business and the opportunity for new beginnings. Those employed on property have impeccable manners, some floating around as if in a higher state of consciousness, instilling the whole resort with an addictive Zen-like atmosphere which goes some way to understanding why first-time guests quickly become Ponta dos Ganchos regulars, returning to this magical piece of beautiful Brazil again and again. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.pontadosganchos.com

BRUSSELS HÔTEL DES GALLERIES This boutique hotel in the historic heart of the Belgian capital is a contemporary homage to the city’s status as Europe’s art-world mecca. The brainchild of Parisian art collector and hotelier, Nadine Flammarion, its 23 rooms and suites evoke whimsical European charm with vivid splashes of colour, Marimekko accent pillows and fabrics, custom furnishings, and ceramic works that add a sleek vibrancy to each and every room. Now the seat of the European Union, Brussels was once a stronghold for the French and the Flemish communities, and these influences can be seen everywhere – from the architecture of its historic town centres, to the dialects spoken in the streets, and the regional flavours of the city’s unparalleled food scene. Located in the heart of Galeries Royale Saint-Hubert, Hôtel des Galleries is a beacon for culture vultures and an ideal sightseer’s home-base. On the corner of Galerie du Roi and Rue des Bouchers, the hotel is mere blocks from Brussels’ iconic Grand Place central square and its cheekily infamous Manneken Pis statue. Each of its well-appointed rooms and suites offer unique views out over Brussels’ Gothic Town Hall, Galerie du Roi, the sprawling rooftops of the downtown panorama, or the tranquil coziness of your own private patio. As you explore by day the city’s warren of cobbled alleyways, museums, monuments and hidden art enclaves, be sure to work up an appetite for an evening’s repast at Comptoir de Galeries, the hotel’s intimate 60-seat on-site restaurant headed by Michelin-starred chef, Julien Burlat. Housed in a 175-year-old medal workshop that once supplied the Royal Family, it’s yet another way that history comes to life within your immediate surroundings. The quintessential Brussels experience doesn’t get much more authentic. ASHLEE STARRATT www.hoteldesgalleries.be

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 33

TORQUAY, MELBOURNE

RACV TORQUAY RESORT Home to world famous Bells Beach and the birthplace of countless iconic surfing brands, many would say that Torquay is the boarding capital of Australia. 95km south west of Melbourne, the seaside town is also the official start of the Great Ocean Road. Located at the road's eastern gateway, is the Royal Automobile Club of Victoria's stunning Torquay Resort, designed by Australian firm, Wood Marsh Architecture. The vast five-floor rammed-earth structure was conceived as a cluster of soft, arched shapes that shift throughout the native landscape from which the building looks like it has emerged James Bond style. The elongated sequence of concave, convex and converging curves is utterly striking, and the ironbark fascia helps to bed the building into its coastal setting. Overlooking an Ogilvy Clayton 18-hole traditional coastal links golf course, home to the Torquay Golf Club, this luxury retreat is a huge space of sandy-coloured walls tempered with open fires, lounges, American oak floors, wool carpets and works from the Ian Potter Museum of Art. Views are all oriented directly towards the ocean, which are accentuated with a palette of low-maintenance and neutral materials. The resort incorporates gym facilities, restaurants, bars, a 50-metre indoor pool, yoga and spin centers, as well as a luxury day spa that includes a Turkish bath house, sauna, plunge pools and numerous treatment rooms. Guest accommodations are accessed amidst a series of cavernous hallways lit by deep, coloured glass windows that dot the northwestern faรงade. Like the rest of the structure, sleeping quarters strongly emphasise natural materials, and contrast various textures with refined finishes and raw elements. Hotel rooms are generously proportioned with three-metre-high ceilings and, on the upper levels, expansive ocean views through big picture windows and sliding doors. Bathrooms are similarly spacious, with separate showers and deep tubs. Four ocean spa suites have separate bedrooms, and for families there are interconnecting rooms. Curtains are a shimmering shade of the sea and underwater photographic art by local artist Stephen Wickham adorns the walls, all which is only upstaged by the vast blueness of the ocean beyond the windows.. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.racv.com.au

PRIZE DRAW

WIN

A TWO-NIGHT STAY AT HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE, ATHENS

The winner of this prize will enjoy a two-night stay in a Grand Suite at Hotel Grande Bretagne, for two persons, including daily breakfast at GB Roof Garden Restaurant on the eighth floor, offering spectacular views of Acropolis Hill every morning. On the last night of your stay, you will feast on a delicious three-course dinner at GB Roof Garden Restaurant, paired with a bottle of wine from a Greek domain. Complimentary Wi-Fi connectivity throughout your stay at Hotel Grande Bretagne is also included. At the epicentre of the Greek capital, enjoying the most ideal location right on Syntagma Square, is Hotel Grande Bretagne, a city landmark that has been in the middle of Hellenic history for the entire 20th century. For the most discerning Cultured Traveller, who wishes to live, eat and breath Greece’s charismatic capital city, this really is the best location to stay in Athens. Hence Hotel Grande Bretagne continues to be THE place where the wealthiest and most influential people stay when in town. Given its extraordinary history, since 1848, the list of royalty, heads of state, politicians and celebrities who have stayed at Hotel Grande Bretagne is endless.. Maria Callas, Aristotle Onassis, Sting, Elizabeth Taylor and Laurence Olivier to name but a few. Staying at Hotel Grande Bretagne puts you within walking distance of Kolonaki, Plaka, the Parthenon, Monastiraki Flea Market, Lycabettus Hill and the Royal Palace. Basically everything the vibrant Greek capital has to offer. The hotel’s award-winning GB Roof Garden Restaurant is the most spectacular gastronomic venue one is ever likely to experience in Greece, offering panoramic unobstructed views of the fabled Acropolis and the Parthenon. Guests can also luxuriate in the hotel’s multi award-winning GB Spa, or savor an afternoon tea in the Winter Garden where the desserts are curated by the awarded pâtissier, Arnaud Larher. 320 rooms including 58 suites all boast opulent décor, luxurious marble bathrooms and state-of-the-art facilities. Most of the rooms benefit from incredible views of the Parthenon, whilst guests staying in suites are waited on hand and foot by attentive, liveried butlers offering a personalized service. www.grandebretagne.gr • Twitter @grandebretagne Facebook.com/hotelgb • Instagram.com/hotelgrandebretagne

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM

Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 30 September 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of October 2016. This prize can be used until 1st August 2017, subject to room availability and certain terms and conditions. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties. 36

PRIZE WORTH EUR 2,2 50

MARRAKESH ALEX BENASULI VISITS NORTH AFRICA'S CHARISMATIC RED CITY

orocco has been dazzling travellers with its unique culture, breathtaking natural beauty and exotic ways for centuries. Its inimitable identity – a unique mélange of original Berber tribesmen, Arab conquerors and the remnants of the country’s French colonial era - is evident in a society rich in history and character, complete with a globally appreciated design aesthetic and distinctive, flavourful cuisine. There is no better place in the country to experience the diversity,

vibrancy and spirit of Morocco than Marrakesh. As one of Morocco’s four, historical Imperial cities - along with Rabat (the administrative capital), Fes and Meknes - Marrakesh stands apart as the most visited metropolis in the kingdom, filled with hidden palaces, bustling souks and botanical gems. Above all, Marrakesh has been a cultural, religious and trading center for all of Morocco and North Africa for over a millennium, and remains today as cosmopolitan, alluring and captivating as ever. Whilst there are sights to

As one of Morocco’s four, historical Imperial cities, Marrakesh stands apart as the most visited metropolis in the kingdom, filled with hidden palaces, bustling souks and botanical gems.

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 39

JEMAA EL-FNA

SAADIAN TOMBS

see and shopping to be done in Marrakesh, there are also carve impressive lines throughout the city. The reddish-pink numerous gardens, olive groves, parks and courtyards in colour saturates all of Marrakesh, even the newer districts, which to stop, unwind and relax. Amongst the city’s most and hence is known by many as the “red city”. Along the famous, are the Menara Gardens with forty varieties of olive outside of the old fortress walls are pedestrian boulevards trees (www.jardin-menara.com) and the beautiful 12th landscaped with rows of rose bushes. As the sun sets and the century walled Agdal Gardens which cover 1,000 acres. heat of the day wanes, throngs of Marrakeshis take to the During the French occupation of the country from 1912 to park-like boulevards for their evening strolls. Western dress 1956, Marrakesh developed a decadent undertone. Winston is eschewed in favour of local norms. Women wear kaftans Churchill, Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Bowles all spent time often with headscarves, while men tend to favour flowing here. Marrakesh earned its djellaba-like robes. Car traffic hippie-chic credentials in the competes with donkey carts 1960s and 70s, when and bicycles for right of way. Marrakesh earned its musicians including Jimi In Marrakesh, beauty and hippie-chic credentials in the 1960s Hendrix and Led Zeppelin’s chaos co-exist in a and 70s, when musicians including Robert Plant and Jimmy Page kaleidoscope of colour, found inspiration in the energy and harmony. Jimi Hendrix and Led Zeppelin’s fabled city. Today, more than Robert Plant and Jimmy Page found ever, Marrakesh is an There is no better place to inspiration in the fabled city. effortlessly fashionable and immerse oneself in the exotic stylish yet authentic cacophony of Marrakesh than destination, with new Jemaa el-Fna, the city’s main boutique and luxury hotels opening all the time. To spend square and claimed by many to be the largest in North any amount of time in Marrakesh - be it just a weekend or Africa. Historically and to this day, the square acts as both a longer - is to be swept up in a deeply sensory North African crossroads and marketplace for Bedouin tribesmen from adventure. different parts of the country - from the High Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert and even parts of Sub-Saharan The defining feature of Marrakesh is its reddish-pink beaten Africa - to the numerous oasis and agricultural centers clay ramparts, which surround the extensive medina, the old around Marrakesh. By day it is predominantly occupied by city. The medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage orange juice vendors and stall after stall selling figs, dates site in 1985. Dating back to the 1100s, its sprawling walls and every type of nut. Interspersed amongst the stalls are 40 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

BAHIA PALACE

KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE

snake charmers and Barbary apes that perform tricks for a healing spices, potions and lotions, and local crafts, is a fee. Ad hoc street dentists are there with huge pliers should Marrakesh experience that should be embraced. It is also in you require a sudden extraction. However, it is at night that the souks and in the medina that one begins to get an Jemaa el-Fna really explodes with life. Magicians, acrobats appreciation for Moroccan design, which has evolved over and storytellers jostle for attention with dancing boys, centuries. From carpets to ceramic pottery, geometrically healers and fortune-tellers. Dozens of food stalls serve street stamped metal lighting fixtures to silver and amber food to locals and tourists alike. As most of the people jewellery, and so much more, one could furnish and decorate participating in the square life are locals, it can all feel a tad an entire house in the souks, or just a few keepsakes to take overwhelming as a tourist. However the sights, sounds, home. It is in and around the medina that most of colours and dynamism of this Marrakeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historical sites real life performance are not can be found, namely the to be missed, and pivotal to Koutoubia Mosque with its Once Jemaa el-Fna has any visit to Marrakesh. 77-metre minaret, Saadian been experienced, the rest of Once Jemaa el-Fna has Tombs, Ben Youssef Madrasa Marrakesh makes more sense been experienced, the rest of and Bahia Palace. It is in Marrakesh makes more sense these buildings, plus the and seems a lot less daunting, and seems a lot less throngs of riads located particularly the souks of daunting, particularly the behind closed doors in the the medina. souks of the medina. For medina, that visitors discover many visitors, bargaining the Marrakesh of courtyard and shopping in the souks of fountains and former the old city represents the quintessential Marrakesh mansions of exquisite tile work, cedar wood carvings and experience. Access to the souks can be reached directly from intricate geometrical plasterwork, and it is through such Jemaa el Fna via the many gates that break up the continuity beauty, that one appreciates how Marrakesh has maintained of the old city walls. Among the surviving gates to the its position as one of the most important Imperial cities in medina, the stone Bab Agnaou is especially notable and the country throughout the ages. worth seeing. Whether you are a keen shopper or not, meandering Marrakesh is much more than a living museum, or an through the maze-like tangle of streets in the medina, gazing example of colourful and chaotic North African life. upon stalls of fresh fruit, pharmacies filled with exotic Foreigners have also been flocking to the city to relax,

BEN YOUSSEF MADRASA

unwind and be pampered since the time of the French protectorate. Apart from high summer, the year-round climate is ideal. Warm sunny days in winter, autumn and spring are met with cool nights. Rains rarely last more than a few days at a time. On clear days - of which there are many - the peaks of the High Atlas, often snow-capped, form a picturesque backdrop. There is no greater pleasure than decamping to the roof terrace of a smart riad like El Fenn, or spending time in the gardens of legendary hotel, La Mamounia, gazing at the mountains while enjoying tea and Moroccan pastries, or local wines which happen to be very good. In the old city, there are many boutique hotel-style riads that boast beautiful design and intimate service. A little out of the center, in the Palmeraie district 42 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

situated at the edge of the city's northern section, palm and fruit trees have been cultivated for hundreds of years and there are some larger resorts with extensive grounds, multiple swimming pools and excellent golf courses. Here you will find Amanjena, an atmospheric red-walled deluxe resort, on the outskirts of Marrakesh, echoing the style of a sultan's palace. More recently, Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental have also opened beautiful resort properties outside the city center. As well as high-end luxury hotels, there are many lower key and more reasonably priced accommodation options - both in and outside the city center - that balance charm, design, comfort and service to varying degrees.

SOMMEtOutE - fusiodesign.com

Where dreams live and emotions are born

From dreams & inspiration springs the royal mansour From the exquisite mosaics adorning its palatial interiors to the mesmerising murmur of the fountains in the courtyards, the Royal Mansour reflects the beauty, grace and indeed, the very soul of Morocco. A first glimpse of this sensual luxury makes the heart beat faster, awakening the senses. But the true relaxation offered by this paradise in the centre of bustling Marrakech can only be experienced by a stay amidst the elegant tranquillity and attention to detail of the Royal Mansour. You and those you love will leave refreshed in mind, body and spirit.

tEL.+212 (0) 529 80 80 80

www.royalmansour.com

To complete your Marrakesh experience, indulge in a Moroccan bathing or hammam ritual. After lying down on hot stone for some minutes, an attendant bathes you, applies various oils and then proceeds to exfoliate, using a rough bath mitt to scrub off dead skin. Usually this is followed by short massage. This routine of relaxation and cleansing can be performed once a week. After one treatment most people become addicted. Usually the hammams themselves are veritable architectural works of art, and typically caverns of marble and alabaster, punctuated by shafts of light shining in from outside. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see why Marrakesh has remained such a desirable destination for so long: thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basically something 44

for everyone - from adventure seeking history buffs to design connoisseurs, from foodies to shopaholics, not to mention those who just seek relaxation in an exotic location complete with service fit for a king. And for those wanting to see a little bit more of Morocco, day and overnight trip possibilities abound from Marrakesh. The mountains and verdant valleys provide excellent hiking and effective respite from the heat of the city. Essaouira, on Moroccoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Atlantic coast, provides an attractive two-centre option, with its lower key souk and adventure exploits, including kite surfing and 4x4 dune quad biking. With so much on offer, Marrakesh can be a once in a lifetime adventure holiday, or a place to which cultured travellers return, year after year, to explore a little bit more.

Today, more than ever, Marrakesh is an effortlessly fashionable and stylish yet authentic destination, with new boutique and luxury hotels opening all the time.

MENARA GARDENS

STAY

ROYAL MANSOUR One is somewhat spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodation in Marrakesh. From riads in the medina to five-star resorts just outside the city centre, few compete with the high-end luxury, opulence and privacy that are the signatures of the Royal Mansour, arguably Marrakesh’s most exclusive hotel. Here you do not have to choose between riad-style accommodation within the old city walls, or resort amenities outside the city centre, because at the Royal Mansour you get both, and more. Originally commissioned by King Mohammed VI of Morocco as a place for foreign leaders and dignitaries to be accommodated if they were not staying at a royal residence, the Royal Mansour opened its great, burnished brass doors just over five years ago, having been designed as a mini medina within Marrakesh’s original old city. This is a hotel so grand and yet so understated that it almost defies description. At the same time as my visit, Michelle Obama was staying at the Royal Mansour with her daughters. The Royal Mansour comprises 53 terracotta-coloured private riads, each set on three levels with up to four bedroom suites. Most have two or three bedrooms. As in the actual medina, narrow pathways and twisting lanes amble around the riads, connecting one area of the hotel to another, to a backdrop of the delicate sound of water trickling through open channels set into the paving. When wandering around the Royal Mansour, there’s a real - almost magical - sense of wonder at what's perhaps around the next corner. Nothing could ensure work of such a high standard as labouring for one's King, and the 1,200 “moualems” (master craftsmen) who worked day and night for years, universally regard the Royal Mansour as the highlight of their careers. It is obvious that no expense was spared in creating what is a real masterpiece of Moroccan art, so as you can imagine, the 53 riads are beyond stunning. Simply put, they showcase the very best of traditional craftsmanship combined with the creature comforts of 21st century living. Each riad is entered via a private entrance and has its own roof terrace with plunge pool. Riad is derived from the Arabic word for garden, and the first thing you notice when entering your private Moroccan house, is the open aired central courtyard, complete with an exquisite marble fountain sprinkled with rose petals. Together, the sound of gently cascading water, natural light from above filling the courtyard, and the strategically positioned potted plants immediately set the tone of a soothing oasis in the middle of your living space. In the rooms’ rich interiors, walls are lined with glazed honey, blue and green terracotta tiles and adorned with silks and tanned suede; ceilings are artfully finished with sculpted plaster and hand-painted wood paneling, and floors are laid with geometric mosaics, cut in a thousand shapes. Each room has a smart panel with which to control the lights and temperature. There is even a retractable glass roof atop the courtyard allowing for optimal climate control and to shield the interior from rain, if needed. Upon arrival, guests are greeted by a personal butler - on call 24 hours a day - offering chilled champagne and a tour of their new home. Rather than being ever visible and under your feet, he melts into the background, sensing perfectly when you need him. He is there to look after your every need, from unpacking your luggage, to preparing cocktails and small meals in the riad's own kitchen, making and confirming dinner and spa reservations, to serving breakfast and afternoon tea in your riad. Ours was also a great source of information about Moroccan design and culture. The riads at the Royal Mansour are so beautifully designed, it’s hard to draw yourself away from such intense comfort. But one must, since the rest of the property is equally stunning and worthy of exploration. Something stunning catches the eye at literally every turn. Lounges, libraries and sitting rooms provide quiet corners in which to relax or read. Two on-site fine dining restaurants - La Grande Table Marocaine and La Grande Table Francaise - are under the tutelage of much celebrated French chef, Yannick Alleno, their focus being the serving of delectable cuisine in refined surroundings. The spa complex is housed in what feels like a vast, wrought iron birdcage - all soaring ceilings and delicate metal latticework – and offers all manner of treatments, from hammams to watsu baths, and hydrotherapy to countless types of massage. Towards the end of 2016, the Royal Mansour will unveil an extensive garden extension, complete with a 30-metre swimming pool, seven private poolside cabanas and a separate children’s area. A new less formal all-day-dining restaurant, located within the gardens, will also open. With this extension, the Royal Mansour will literally have it all. Already, such is the level of true seclusion, pampering and understated luxury effortlessly afforded to the hotel’s guests, that the only hardship about staying at the Royal Mansour is the moment when you have to leave. www.royalmansour.com

TRIP There is enough to see and discover in Marrakesh to last many lifetimes. However, to not explore the environs while in North Africa – the mountains, agricultural plains, desert and coast - would be a great shame. When the bustle of city life tires, or the heat index rises too high, the High Atlas, its foothills and the valleys that lead up to the mountains’ highest snow-capped peaks, all beckon. Seen from the rooftops of Marrakesh’s riads and the gardens of the Palmeraie, the mountains are actually much closer than they appear. In little over an hour one is in the midst of stunning scenery and gorgeous nature. The Ourika Valley is one such spot. Lush valleys planted with fruit trees and waterfalls abound. Irises and roses are cultivated for the beauty industry. The air is clean and fresh. Although an easy day trip from Marrakesh, spending a night or two in such peaceful surroundings is a treat. Kasbah Bab Ourika is an exceptional property, positioned on it’s own perch in the Ourika Valley with unobstructed views to the mountains, with sprawling gardens, swimming pool and hammam. Either visit for the day, walk around the locale and have lunch on the patio overlooking the garden, or stay a few nights and have the hotel plan an itinerary of more adventurous activities. The vibe feels homey and cozy yet professional and polished (www.kasbahbabourika.com). In a different direction leaving Marrakesh lies Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot, a magical walled complex near Asni in the High Atlas, of peaceful courtyards, intriguing staircases, landscaped gardens and breathtaking views (www.kasbahtamadot.virgin.com). The Atlantic coast is a little over two hours due west of Marrakesh. Here you will find the charming and very popular former colonial Portuguese fort town of Essaouira. Its old ramparts contain a delightfully restored old town with souks, a handful of funky restaurants and teahouses and a good selection of boho-chic boutique riad hotels. Essaouira is known far and wide as one of the best places in Morocco for woodworking. Much smaller and lower key than Marrakesh, the town has more of a casual beach town ethos and is a major center for wind and kite surfing, with 4x4 dune quad biking, beachside camel and horse riding also readily available. Within the walls, Villa Maroc offers simple yet charming and comfortable rooms in an authentically restored riad that blends tradition with sleek, clean lines (www.villa-maroc.com). For a more upscale option, the twelve rooms at Villa de l’Ô are decorated with antiques that capture a moment in Essaouira’s colonial past when it was one of the most important trading ports in the country, and a spacious roof terrace boasts impressive views across the old town and the long sandy beach (www.villadelo.com). Fifteen minutes from the center of Essaouira, terraced boutique hotel, Le Jardin des Douars, boasts extensive gardens and two swimming pools, plus a small spa and hammam, and is situated in an area famous for Argan oil, which, depending on who you talk to, is nothing short of the fountain of youth (www.jardindesdouars.com). Halfway along the three-hour drive to Agadir - Morocco’s coastal resort mecca to the southwest - lies Taroudant, an elegant, walled Berber market town with tawny-brown and honey-gold walls and buildings. Connoisseurs of the Arab Mediterranean find Taroudant heaven, because unlike Marrakesh 140 miles to the north, there are no stoplights, no branded hotels and far fewer expats. The absence of basic institutions and services has helped preserve the character and authenticity of Taroudant, making it well worth an overnight visit. The drive to Ouarzazate – commonly referred to as the gateway to the desert - takes three hours, and takes you through the Tizi n'Tichka mountain pass in the High Atlas, a spectacular piece of engineering at an altitude of 2,260 metres above sea level. Once in Ouarzazate, the city offers much to see and do, from kasbahs and markets to museums and cinema studios, not to mention the old districts of Taourirt and Tassoumate (www.muchmorocco.com/locations/ouarzazate). It’s little wonder that discerning travellers keep returning to Marrakesh. Both the city itself and the myriad of side trips offer unique and incredibly beautiful scenery and experiences at every turn. 48

KASBAH BAB OURIKA

SEE

MAJORELLE GARDEN & ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM OF MARRAKESH

MAJORELLE GARDEN 50

Known as Yves Saint Laurent’s garden, Jardin Majorelle’s origins are 1920s French colonial art deco. The garden was the brainchild of its original owner, celebrated French painter, Jacques Majorelle. Saint Laurent purchased the site from Majorelle in the 1960s and later gifted it to the city. It is a veritable oasis of calm and beauty in the middle of Guéliz, a now modern and trendy residential district of large villas and gardens in the heart of modern Marrakesh, which was first planned by the French in the last century. The meticulously maintained garden is most famous for the electric blue Cubist villa at the heart of its twelve acres, the colour of which is now widely known as “Majorelle Blue”. Originally Majorelle's workshop - designed by architect Paul Sinoir in the early 1930s, and added to a few years later with balconies and an Arab-inspired pergola - nowadays the villa is home to the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakesh and houses a personal collection of Islamic artifacts owned by Saint Laurent and his life partner, Pierre Bergé. The vivid blue of the building is offset by accents of bright yellow and orange, whilst the desert-like planting, bougainvillea, and tree-shaded walkways are linked together by green-tiled mosaic paths. The use of colour, combined with the garden’s landscaping, have become an important sources of inspiration for many a contemporary home and garden designed around the world during the past century. Jardin Majorelle is very popular with tourists, is on pretty much everyone’s must see list of Marrakesh and consequently receives many visitors. For a more peaceful experience, try to arrive as the gardens open at 8am, find a quiet and shady spot to linger for a while, and focus on the beauty of your surroundings. www.jardinmajorelle.com

JEMAA EL-FNA The heart and soul of the city and one of the liveliest and interesting attractions in all Morocco, Jemaa el-Fna is essentially one of the main crossroads of North Africa and serves as Marrakesh’s main public square. It is both a centre of commerce and spectacle, for locals and visiting Berber tribesmen, in which tourists are able to participate. Located in the city’s medina quarter, during daylight hours the main activity is the buying and selling of fruits, nuts and other produce, made more interesting by snake charmers and street performers. As the sun begins to set and nighttime falls, the atmosphere becomes more carnival-like, with storytellers, magicians and healers competing with acrobats, musicians and dancing boys for your attention. A visit to Jemaa el-Fna is a multi-sensory overload at its most exotic. If you a fan of street food, the food stalls are second to none. No trip to Marrakesh, or Morocco for that matter, would be complete without experiencing Jemaa el-Fna. www.morocco.com/attractions/djemaa-el-fna

SAADIAN TOMBS Discovered in 1917, this architectural and historical jewel offers a glimpse into another world. Constructed in the late 16th century by Sultan Ahmed el Mansour as a burial ground for himself and his descendants, the tombs boast some of the most impressive, detailed woodwork in the whole country. In fact, much of the best of traditional Moroccan craftsmanship is on display here, with domed ceilings, marble carvings, cedar doors and intricate gilded honeycomb plasterwork all in abundance. Every centimetre,

from floor-to-ceiling, incorporates elements of handcrafted design work. The cemetery garden offers a green and natural contrast to the interiors, with its pomegranate and palm trees, and intensely fragrant rosemary and rose bushes. Ask your hotel to pre-arrange a private guide, or hire one on site to receive both a history lesson and crash course in traditional Moroccan design all in one go. www.morocco.com/attractions/saadian-tombs

BEN YOUSSEF MADRASA To glimpse another example of stunning traditional Moroccan architecture, Ben Youssef Madrasa must be on you list. Located within the medina walls, it is the largest Madrasa in all of Morocco, and was originally one of the biggest Islamic theological colleges in North Africa. Constructed in the late 16th century, it closed as a college in the 1960s and is now open to the public. A carved cedar doorway gives way to a large courtyard, replete with mesmerising geometric tiling, ribbons of painted Islamic calligraphy, and intricate plasterwork upper walls and ceiling. A large, central courtyard pool reflects all of this immense beauty. A guide will help you to understand the historical and design links to the best examples of Iberian Islamic architecture, such as the Alhambra in Granada and the Alcázar of Seville. Above one of the Madrasa’s entrances, carved in Arabic, are the words “You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded”. This is something of an understatement. www.medersa-ben-youssef.com/en/

LA GRANDE TABLE MAROCAINE 52

TASTE LA GRANDE TABLE MAROCAINE If you prefer to dine in more discreet deluxe environs, than the colourful and somewhat theatrical settings that are the norm for many of the city’s classic Moroccan restaurants, La Grande Table Marocaine stands out. Not only is the sumptuous Moroccan décor executed with panache and sophistication, but also the food is expertly and skillfully prepared by executive chef Yannick Alléno and his team, which showcases traditional Moroccan gastronomy with an innovative, contemporary twist. Service is swift, attentive and white-gloved. One can either order à la carte or choose from various set menus. When dining at La Grande Table Marocaine it is obvious that some of Morroco’s top culinary talents are at work, using the freshest local ingredients. As one of magnificent hotel Royal Mansour’s flagship restaurants, one wouldn’t expect anything less. Open for dinner only, seven nights a week. www.royalmansour.com/en/dining/la-grande-table-marocaine

LE TOBSIL Before the explosion of Marrakesh as a tourist destination, there was Le Tobsil, a private pacha’s residence in the medina that was converted into a palace-like eating establishment where the jet set and foreign dignitaries ate in traditional Moroccan splendour. Le Tobsil still offers an unforgettable dining experience. The setting is lavish. The set menu of traditional Moroccan cuisine begins with meze, followed by pastilla (chicken or pigeon filled fried filo dough pastry, seasoned with cinnamon and sugar), a tagine (the typical Moroccan earthenware pot style of cooking beef, chicken or lamb), couscous and pastries. If this sounds like a lot of food it’s because it is! Come hungry. Prepare to eat in surroundings fit for a king. Allow yourself to be spoiled. 22 Derb Abdellah ben Hessaien, R'mila Bab Ksour +212 524 444052

DAR YACOUT

Dar Yacout is another palace-like dining establishment serving a set Moroccan menu. The décor is stunning. Mosaic floors are interspersed with beautiful carpets. Intricate woodcarving and plasterwork throughout surround courtyard fountains with rose petals strewn about. This is not a minimalist dining experience. The atmosphere is enhanced by a trio of traditional musicians who hypnotically swirl the tassels on their fez hats while singing pleasantly haunting Berber songs. www.yacout.ma

LE FOUNDOUK

Open since 2002 and set in a traditional Medina riad, Le Foundouk successfully respects local aesthetics whilst feeling more contemporary and current than many of its gastronomic counterparts. Open from noon through ‘til midnight makes this cool venue ideal for lunch, tea and cocktails, as well as dinner. A chic, smoked glass bar is perfect for a pre or post dinner drink. Ambient chill out music plays in the background. An à la carte menu offering international as well as Moroccan dishes - makes a nice change from the citywide set menu format. The views across the medina’s rooftops, from Le Foundouk’s gorgeous roof terrace, are spectacular. www.foundouk.com

LE PALACE Located in the Hivernage district, a short taxi ride from most hotels, Le Palace encompasses the hip and stylish sides of Marrakesh, yet still manages to exude warmth and charm. The ground floor has the vibe of a trendy Parisian bistro with a French colonial sensibility - think ceiling fans, potted palm trees and rattan furniture. The lighting is ridiculously perfect. Downstairs is a sexy supper club, all dark velvets and low lighting. The food is French-inspired, innovative and tasty. Music is courtesy of a resident DJ. After dinner, a more nightclub energy prevails, until 2am over the weekends when reservations are essential. www.facebook.com/le-palace-1453821721613581

LE PAVILLON DE LA PISCINE For a real daytime treat, head to the main swimming pool at La Mamounia, undoubtedly the city’s most famous hotel. The garden and poolside setting are immediately relaxing. The expansive buffet - focused on Mediterranean and Moroccan fare - is outstanding. Better yet, buy a day pass that allows you to use La Mamounia’s swimming pool (arguably the best in North Africa) and make a whole afternoon out of your Pavillon experience. Lunch at Le Pavillon followed by some pool time should be on every cultured traveller’s bucket list. Sunday brunch is one of the best in the city. www.mamounia.com/en/restaurants-dining/le-pavillon-de-la-piscine

BAR ITALIEN 54

SIP

BAR ITALIEN This elegant yet relatively informal bar and lounge, together with the adjoining Majorelle Gallery, is a veritable social hub for the city’s sophisticated set. Hotel guests mingle with foreign residents and the local elite in this deluxe, slightly decadent drinking venue. The sound of laughter, chatting and the clinking of champagne glasses regularly mingles with live music by a trio which plays in the evenings. The perfect place to sink into a velvet armchair, order a Mamoune Lady (gin, lemon and orange-flower water) sit back and enjoy. Be sure to wear something smart’ish, after all, you’re at La Mamounia. www.mamounia.com/en/restaurants-dining/bar-italien_24.htm

EL FENN One of the great pleasures of being in Marrakesh is spending time on a beautiful roof terrace of a riad in the medina. The roof terrace at stylish riad hotel, El Fenn, is perfect for enjoying a spot of mid afternoon tea, sipping wine or nibbling on something tasty. Seating areas are plentiful, including many hidden nooks allowing for slightly more clandestine rendezvous. The views across the medina are mesmerising, especially on a clear day when you can see all the way to the Atlas Mountains, which are snow-capped in the winter through until early spring. A visit to the rooftop of El Fenn is a welcome break from souk shopping, or a cute location for a civilised pre-dinner cocktail before a night on the town. www.el-fenn.com

LOTUS CLUB Housed in the 1930s Art Deco Villa Eva, in the heart of Hivernage district, Lotus Club has quickly established itself as one of Marrakesh’s most exuberant and lively nighttime experiences. Multiple floors of restaurants and bars make-up this glamorous homage to dining, drinking, partying, dancing and merrymaking. A stable of DJs provides the musical backdrop to the colourful antics of the house cabaret troupe, which performs highly entertaining, professionally choreographed “OhLaLa” shows, rich in feathers, glitter and general OTT’ness. Expertly mixed cocktails and small plates of sushi fuel the excitement, whilst the outdoor terrace is a safe haven to catch your breath away from the frenzied madness inside. www.lotusclubmarrakech.com

GRAND CAFÉ DE LA POSTE Housed in a 1920s French colonial post office, this inviting venue frequented by locals, expats and in-the-know tourists, has a distinctly Southeast Asian vibe with a Moroccan flavour. Soaring ceilings, an elegant checkerboard floor and potted palms throughout give the space a lush feel. Open from morning ‘til night, the best times to visit la Poste are early evening for an aperitif or after dinner when the place really comes alive. Escape to the covered terrace for a quieter moment. Corner of Boulevard el-Mansour Eddahbi and Avenue Imam Malik +212 524 433038

BO-ZIN

Located 10 minutes out of the center by taxi, Bo-Zin is a fashionable bar and eatery with a succession of indoor and outdoor spaces. The tented area is tossed to the max with silky cushions. The bamboo and palm-filled garden is more tranquil, with tables and lounge seating surrounding a large bar and decorative pool. The pergola is a beautiful indoor-outdoor space, tempered by fans and cold mist showers. Usually candlelit throughout, the vibe at Bo-Zin is Zen-like and relaxed until later in the evening when a DJ plays, the energy revs up a notch and the staff get flirty. www.bo-zin.com

SKY BAB A chic stop-off for tapas or cocktails in the heart of French colonial Guéliz district, located on the rooftop of Bab Hotel. In contract to the over the top décor of most Marrakesh’s drinking dens and restaurants, Sky Bab is all minimalist and geometric, in black and white tones. The feel is uncluttered, stylish and relaxed. During the day there are spots in both the sun and shade in which to lounge, nibble and sip. By night a DJ or live music charges the atmosphere. www.facebook.com/skybabmarrakech/

SOUK

Love them or hate them, the souks within Marrakesh’s medina walls are some of the world’s most famous and colourful. If the idea of meandering (and perhaps getting lost) through a maze of narrow streets chock-a-block full of market stalls selling everything from antiques to junk - and competing for elbow room with pushcarts, beggars, solicitous shop owners, motorcycles, donkeys and other tourists - makes you anxious, then perhaps stay at your hotel while your travel companions engage in a shopping orgy flavoured with exoticism and adrenalin. However, visiting the souks is an intrinsic part of a Marrakesh experience and really should not be missed. You can of course arrange for a private guide to help you to navigate through the bewildering and seemingly never-ending jumble of streets and alleyways, but I would suggest diving in headfirst and making an adventure of it. The souks can be accessed from almost every entrance into the medina, as well as from the main square, Jemaa el-Fna. For a slightly easier first pass, head to the Dar el-Bacha gate and follow the road in front of you, straight into the heart of the medina, where the scale and variety of what’s available will quickly become apparent. Here the stalls are on the whole a tad more civilised and sell slightly higher than average quality goods. Moroccan design has become quite popular over the decades, so you will be confronted by a lot of potential purchases. At the moment, pom-pom blankets, cushion covers and towels are quite popular. They come in different colours and stripes. Also for the home, multi coloured Beldi tea glasses are quite fun and inexpensive. There are excellent selections of beautifully designed geometrically stamped lamps and of course there are acres of carpets and kilims. Jewellery is popular, particularly chunky Berber style amber necklaces. All kinds of pottery are on sale, from tagine pots to serving platters with exquisite detailing. In terms of clothing, kaftans and babouches, and pointy toe Moroccan sandals are perennial favourites. The souk is informally divided into different sections, the spice souk being the most colourful with stall upon stall of exotic spices, fruits and olives on display. Marrakesh's Jewish quarter, known as the Mellah, was built in the 16th century, during Saadian rule, and is home to many fabric vendors and fascinating shops. The metalworking and silversmith souks are nearby. Hours and days can be spent trying to uncover hidden gems in the souk, separating real finds from junk. Whilst to some the art of souk shopping and haggling comes naturally, to others it is literally one’s worst nightmare, so here are a few tips for the uninitiated: 1) Try to establish, ahead of your souk visit, the kinds of goods you are looking for. For instance, clothing, carpets or home furnishings? This will save you time, keep you focused and prevent you from buying stuff you don’t need. 2) Familiarise yourself as much as possible with the different qualities of what you want to buy, so as to know when to be paying more or less for something. For example, hand woven carpets, blankets, towels and clothing cost more their machine made counterparts. Naturally dyed items are more costly than those coloured with artificial dyes. As a rule of thumb, silk is more expensive than cotton, cotton more than wool, and wool more than synthetic fibres, though everything is dependent upon on the type of goods being sought. Ask to see, touch and feel the different qualities and materials so as to educate yourself. The more knowledgeable you come across the less likely you will be taken advantage of! 3) Counter whatever price you are quoted by 50-60% less. Never pay full price for anything, the only exception to this rule being proper designer boutiques. Bargaining is a sport. Do not let the feigned offence of a shopkeeper to your best price prompt you to cave in. 4) You will need to wear your best poker face to secure real bargains. Never seem too interested in closing a deal. Always be prepared to leave the shop. If you go shopping near to closing time, often shopkeepers will be keener to close a sale and offer a steeper discount than usual. 5) Have fun. Yes it can be stressful, particularly if you are new to souks and haggling. However, you must try to find some joy in the process. If at any stage a shopkeeper makes you feel uncomfortable, or you change your mind, just walk away. 6) If you plan to shop in Marrakesh, be sure to take an extra suitcase to transport your purchases back home. 56

33 MAJORELLE 58

SPEND 33 MAJORELLE

Located in the Guéliz district, directly across the street from the entrance to Majorelle Garden, are a handful of boutiques that sell contemporary Moroccan handicrafts and designer accessories. 33 Majorelle is the largest, and offers a well-curated assortment of practical yet original day-to-day items, fashioned by contemporary Moroccan artisans who have combined modern design with the country’s characteristic design ethic. There are striking cushion covers re-fashioned out of Berber carpets and silks, embossed with digital imagery of female tribesmen. Cotton towels and blankets are less traditional than those found in the souk, especially in terms of colours and patterns. Apparel of all types vie for display space with glassware, dishes, coasters, trays, candles, scents and jewellery. There is also a cute café on site. www.33ruemajorelle.com

GALERIE LE PACHA

An Aladdin’s cave of the best Moroccan furniture, jewellery, silver work and mosaics - also located in Guéliz – ideal for shoppers for whom budget is of little concern, or those searching for high quality Moroccan antiques and collectors items. Here you will find everything from 3m intricately carved cedar doors, to antique amber and semi precious stone necklaces for which Morocco is famous. Spread over three floors, Gallerie Le Pacha’s inventory ranges from museum quality pieces to the opulently high end. Being a government-affiliated establishment guarantees not only the quality of everything that’s on sale but also the provenance. Even when surrounded by such superior merchandise be prepared to bargain! 79 Boulevard Moulay Rachid galeriepacha@gmail.com +212 524 430476

KHALID ART GALLERY

Mother of pearl and camel bone inlaid wood furniture is a specialty here. You will also find Moroccan art nouveau furniture, Jewish Moroccan heritage pieces, antiques and home accessories. At Khalid’s you can purchase a small memorable keepsake of your visit to Marrakesh, or furnish an entire house in high end Moroccan luxe design. The main branch is situated just inside the walls of the medina, with a smaller, well-curated concession located within La Mamounia hotel. 14 Rue dar el Bacha, Medina kh-artgallery@menara.ma +212 524 442410

BOURIARD KARIM

Located just outside the walls of the medina, close to the Dar el Bacha entrance on the main road, Bouriard deals in all things kaftan, from djellabas (Moroccan full length outerwear robes) to more casual blouses and shirts suitable for day or beach wear. Not only is the selection wide in terms of colours and style, but Mohammed, the owner, also offers a bespoke service. Bring-in your favourite kaftan, blouse or top from home, and he can duplicate them in a matter of hours (or at worst case overnight) for a very reasonable price. Photos of Mohammed with various celebrities and owners of international clothing lines proudly displayed throughout the store attest to the popularity of his handmade clothes. There is also a small men’s selection that would be ideal for summery outings from Ibiza to the Hamptons. Be sure to ask for Mohammed himself! Rue Fatima Zahra R’mila, Dar el Bacha bouriard@menara.ma +212 524 386517

LA MAISON DU KAFTAN

Also dealing in everything from kaftans and blousy tops to men’s shirts and robes, located in the main souk within the medina, La Maison du Kaftan is a conventional shop rather than a market stall. If the chaos of souk shopping is too much and you need a dose of air conditioning, professional service and cleanliness, this is an excellent place to shop in comfort. Prices are a touch higher but the quality is top and the overall experience more pleasant. You will also find attractive cushion cases, cotton blankets and other Moroccan handicrafts, also of a good quality. Alterations can be made and goods delivered to your hotel or shipped home. 65 Rue Sidi el Yamani Moussaine, Medina +212 524 441051

E-WOW Suite W South Beach, Miami

o spend a weekend in the Extreme WOW Suite at W South Beach, in the heart of Florida’s hedonistic Art Deco seaside playground, is to experience up-close and personal the finest hospitality, food and music strands of Starwood's funky W Hotels brand in one energetic and happening beachside location. It’s no coincidence that some of the city’s most talked-about new hotels have sprung-up in close proximity to the W. The new 1 South Beach is virtually next door, The Miami Beach EDITION is adjacent to that, and the spectacular new Faena district is just a few blocks away. W South Beach is in the middle of these lavish, nouveau hospitality oﬀerings, yet still manages to hold its own as a luxe, self-contained sun-and-fun destination resort, which is no mean feat when hotels like Faena are spending USD 15 million on a single piece of Damien Hirst art to adorn its grounds. The W Hotels concept was born slap-bang in the middle of the Internet revolution, launching with the W New York (49th St. and Lexington Ave.), which opened its doors in December 1998. W’s founder,

62 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

Barry Sternlicht (CEO of Starwood Hotels 1995 - 2005), broke the mould when he launched the brand. Sternlicht cleverly realised, in the mid-90’s, that the cluster of hotels being touted in New York as boutique and lifestyle (most of which belonged to Ian Schrager), were the beginning of a whole new designer hospitality sector. Literally overnight, W changed the hotel industry forever, by proving that there was a huge demand for design-conscious guest experiences amongst the mainstream holidaying public. Its success drove the development of more than a dozen new properties opening in colourful destinations within the chain's first few years of operation – including Los Angeles, Chicago and Seoul. These properties turbo-charged the lifestyle hotel concept and created a hospitality status symbol with lightning speed. There are very few examples of a hotel brand that has such high awareness as W – especially among the world’s travelling, fashion-conscious and aspirational – and it wasn’t long before it joined an elite group of brands that people trusted with their eyes closed and

were wholly loyal to. Whilst on a slightly smaller scale, W is very much in the same league as Apple and Virgin and, like its super-brand parents, there have been changes in the hospitality industry as a result. You only need to look at the number of entrants into the lifestyle hotels segment since W Hotels launched. Amongst others, Hyatt now has Andaz and Marriott now has the EDITION collection. But what makes W unique is that that none of Starwood's competitors have been able to replicate the brand's huge worldwide success, popularity and awareness. W still stands alone with its contemporary, informal positioning in the luxury hotel arena – although some of the chain’s properties better showcase the brand’s vivacious and outgoing DNA than others. W South Beach is one of the best I have experienced to date, in terms of fully embodying what the W brand is all about, while extending its reach throughout every department, nook and cranny of the site. The detailing at W South Beach is spot-on, and just on the right side of the brand over-saturation line that can so

easily be crossed, especially in Miami, where loud and brash are par for the course. What W South Beach pulls oﬀ so well is the perfect juxtaposition between sophisticated and understated, flashy and subdued, flamboyant and simple, noisy and calm. This is not easy to achieve in a city usually wanting to go faster, be louder and stay out later. W’s expansive stretch of beach is a laid-back place to catch some rays, take a dip in the sea and chillax. The hotel’s pool, WET, feels like a members-only bathing club, complete with private cabanas and hidden sunbathing nooks filled with energetic and friendly staﬀ happily attending to the needs of hotel guests. Over the weekends, the atmosphere in WET is taken up a notch by some rather good DJs who provide just the right tempo of music to make toes tap, elevate guests’ spirits and transform its environs into a restrained, yet happening, party-zone. You don’t feel body-conscious or fashion-frazzled lying by the pool at W South Beach. On the contrary, pretty much everyone I encountered whilst lounging poolside was

pleasant and polite, which is something of a rarity for a lifestyle hotel in SoBe.

facing the ocean, you’re both a part of – and presiding over –all the infectious action.

Two very different restaurants at W South Beach – The Dutch and Mr Chow – provide such dissimilar dining experiences that hotel guests feel like they’ve travelled to a different part of the city whilst eating on the property. Mr Chow serves superb, classic Chinese cuisine in elegant surroundings that are as suited to a celebratory meal as an intimate dinner à deux. Meanwhile The Dutch manages to combine a cosy bistro feel with eclectic and tasty American fare served in a relaxed environment. For an early evening aperitif or post-dinner cocktail, Living Room’s mixologists are some of the city’s best, and their liquid creations are hard to beat. If clubbing is on the cards, the hotel’s boutique WALL club is one of Miami’s hottest and most exclusive night-spots. Believe it or not, it’s actually possible to get a taste of everything that wider Miami has to offer without straying off the property if you’re so inclined. And, if you’re lucky enough to be staying in the hotel’s 16th floor Extreme WOW Suite

At almost 3,000 sq. ft. the focal point of the suite is a huge, open-plan living, dining and lounging space, boasting uninterrupted panoramic vistas of the ocean, city and coastline. As W South Beach’s biggest suite, the E-WOW is nothing less than a sprawling, show-stopping party-pad. Here the views are the main attraction and the décor inside the suite admirably defers to what’s going on outside –viewable from 500 sq. ft. of wraparound balconies. Yes, the walls are hung with large-scale photographic pieces by famed music-scene photographer, Danny Clinch; the suite is laden with standout contemporary pieces, including gold leather-covered chairs, huge oversized couches big enough for two people to lie flat toe-to-toe, and a glass and chrome dining table akin to a sculpture. Bose sound is installed in every room, and I lost count of how many TV screens littered the place. But everything has been designed to accentuate (rather than detract from) the incredible views of the ocean,

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

through the floor-to-ceiling windows and doors that run the entire length of the main living room, making a stay in the suite a hugely bright and intensely dramatic experience – the sea and sky beyond the glass acting like one giant canvas which changes theatrically by day and night. Even light aircraft passing by at eye-level with the suite, advertising the city’s nightclubs, appear like live, flying art. Various corridors lead off the main playroom to three bedrooms en suite, all of which benefit from direct sea-views from their king-sized beds. There’s also a full kitchen, media room, and half-bath for visiting guests. The master ensemble consists of a walk-in closet bigger than many a hotel room; a bathroom large enough to party in – with an oversized, free-standing tub and obligatory walk-in shower – and a modest bedroom directly facing the ocean, complete with its own private balcony disconnected from the rest of the suite for privacy. It’s also possible to close off the master rooms from the rest of the suite-at-large, and enter and exit from the hotel corridor in private. With so much square footage and decadence in a city where space and views are at a premium, W South Beach’s E-WOW suite - the jewel in the hotel’s hospitality crown - strikes that finest of balances between premium, rock-star accommodation and sun-soaked vista retreat, where you’ll quickly shrug off the platitudes of your daily grind to find bliss at the threshold of the extraordinary. Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in the E-WOW Suite at W South Beach in June 2016. In August and September 2016 the average nightly rate for the E-WOW Suite is USD 5,400 plus taxes. www.wsouthbeach.com Words by Nicholas Chrisostomou

CULTUREDCHAT WITH PHILIP TRUELOVE IN A CAREER THAT’S SPANNED SOME OF THE GLOBE’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS PROPERTIES, PHILIP TRUELOVE REMAINS THE CONSUMMATE PROFESSIONAL - EVER HUMBLE. RUBBING SHOULDERS WITH ROCK STARS AND HOLLYWOOD ROYALTY, THERE ISN’T MUCH THE FORMER GM OF THE ICONIC CONNAUGHT, MERCER AND CHATEAU MARMONT HOTELS HASN’T SEEN AFTER 46 YEARS IN HOSPITALITY. ASHLEE STARRATT RECENTLY SAT DOWN WITH THE MAN WHO’S NEVER NEEDED A CV, TO TALK HISTORY, HOTELIERS AND HIS LAST EIGHT YEARS AT THE HELM OF TriBeCa’s GREENWICH HOTEL.

The Ritz London scooped you up in 1970, fresh out of hospitality school, and made you the UK’s youngest hotel reception manager at the age of 21. You’ve worked in the hospitality industry for 46 years since then, and have never once had (or needed!) a CV. Does that feel as surreal as it sounds? I’ve been very fortunate in my career, but I’ve never taken anything for granted. My reputation and that of the properties I’ve worked with have spoken for me.

You were born in Colombo before moving back to the UK as a child, when your father joined the Royal Navy. As a military family, moving around a lot, you’ve experienced the world from a young age – living in Singapore, Malta and traveling extensively. How did the wanderlust of your upbringing shape your eventual career path? Sri Lanka is a beautiful island, and as a good ambassador I would advise every cultured traveller to visit what was once called Ceylon. My father was a missionary there but we returned to the UK when I was two and he then joined the Navy and our travels continued. Sadly, I was packed off to

boarding school when I was eight, a very British thing to do, but for the best of reasons – a good education! My brother and I travelled to wherever my parents were during the holidays, so foreign lands and travelling was in my blood from the beginning. As school was ending, the discussion started of what I should do [next] and, being a child of the Forces (so to speak), the Army was considered as a great training ground for a career in catering. In the end, a career path in hotels was considered a better choice for many reasons – including the possibility to travel.

Talk us through some of those early years at The Ritz London. You must have encountered more than a few memorable characters during the hey-day of the 1970’s. To one so young and naïve the characters were not only the guests, but the staff and management as well. It seemed to me, at the time, that all those at the top of the ladder, (following their lunch-time tipple), spent the rest of the working day viewed through a haze. Loyalty was key and we carried on regardless. The members of staff who had been there for years were my mentors, [who] taught me

SIZZLING SUMMER AT GRAND HYATT DOHA . Take advantage of our summer deals available this season between 6 June until 8 September 2016*. Rooms & Suites:

33% • •

discount on the daily rates

Room can accommodate up to two children, under the age of 12. Offer is valid for a minimum stay of 3 nights.

Villas:

30% • •

discount on the daily rates

Villas vary between two, three and four bedrooms. Offer is valid for a minimum stay of 2 nights.

In-house guests receive a 20% discount on all Jaula Spa treatments, laundry services, food and beverages (excluding room service, retail products, and tobacco). *The above offers are subject to hotel availability. *Blackout dates apply during Eid periods. FOR RE SE RVATION S A N D M O R E IN FORMAT I O N, CA L L 4 4 4 8 123 4 . H YAT T. YO U ’R E MO R E T HAN WELCO M E . doha.grand.hyatt.com Facebook/GrandHyattDoha doha.grand@hyatt.com

the trade and the true meaning of hospitality. The guests, of course, kept us on our toes – particularly the old-school who still travelled with their valets and maids. The hotel was still in its original layout with the servants being housed in the small rooms at the back of the building, and their lords and masters in the suites across the corridor [at] the front of the building. There was a system whereby we were able to plug in the wires to allow the suites to directly ring to whichever rooms were held for their staff. Lord Carnarvon, the 6th Earl, always travelled with his valet and was a gentleman who was unfailingly polite and gracious to the staff. [He] would tell us tales of his father who ﬁnanced the discovery of Tutankhamun in Egypt, and talk about his home, Highclere Castle, which is now famous as ‘Downton Abbey’. My ﬁrst exposure to American culture was the arrival of the Osmonds. Goodness knows why we ever took their reservation – I think through ignorance. Whilst they were an absolute delight and extremely polite, the thousands of adoring fans that mobbed the hotel and blocked Arlington Street were quite an eye-opener. That craziness was well balanced by [silver screen actresses] Greer Garson and Claudette Colbert who were a treat to take care of. Of course, this will all date me but even the Rolling

Stones taught us a thing or two about excess – although the most shocking was the day that Linda Lovelace checked in for the premiere of Deep Throat and, as she did, we realised who she was.

You’ve amassed a wealth of experience after decades in the industry. How have you seen the role of a GM evolve over the years? The role of GM has changed from almost a purely social ﬁgure who spent the majority of time with, and taking care of, the guests and then the business, to a person who now takes care of the business and then the guests. Hospitality can get lost in the myriad of requirements it takes to run a business. The GM’s oﬃce was always directly off the lobby, giving immediate access to the guest; now, it’s more often well away from that area and near accounting and reservations, which tells the tale itself.

As we all try to keep up with the ‘Insta’ era, is the convenience of touch-of-the-button technology beginning to surpass customers’ needs for one-to-one interaction when it comes to guest experience? Not in my world and, truthfully, I’ve never sensed the need for it. Certainly it has its place in a large establishment where service is minimal, but

...A HOTEL WITHOUT ITS PEOPLE, HAS NO HEART.

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 71

nothing is more appreciated than the warmth of human contact. Mind you, the touch-of-the-button was how service was summoned in days gone by – the waiter, the chambermaid, the valet – buttons were by the bed for service to be summoned and even a pull by the bath. All that has been taken over by the telephone, so time changes most things and no doubt as the younger generation grows up, their continuous use of messaging and texting will make the need for a more automated approach more acceptable.

With 88 rooms and suites, culinary destination Locanda Verde, and a spa housed under a 250-year-old wood and bamboo roof reconstructed in the hotel, The Greenwich is a TriBeCa landmark. How do you keep its service and ethos fresh in a city that’s notoriously diﬃcult to please? We have a beautiful hotel, individually designed in a very diverse and interesting manner, in an area of New York which, for the city, is an oasis of peace and quiet. Small, [it has] incredible facilities such as a pool, a tremendous spa, and a great outside courtyard – so a great start, but, having said that, a hotel without its people, has no heart. A heart is essential to a business that is about people, working for people, and taking care of people. It’s therefore necessary to provide an environment that’s comfortable, safe, private and relaxed, serviced by kind-hearted, decent human beings who have the time to get to know the guests, [interact] with them on a human level, and who are able to make them feel at home. Equally for the staff, it’s important for them to work in an environment that’s respectful, safe and happy.

You’ve carved your niche in the business at some of the world’s most iconic hotels - from The Ritz London, to The Mercer in New York and André Balazs’ infamous Chateau Marmont in Hollywood. Is there one property where I’VE BEEN VERY you’ve made the FORTUNATE IN MY CAREER, strongest memories, for better or worse? BUT I’VE NEVER TAKEN The Chateau Marmont for many reasons; coming to Hollywood was a dream – lights, action etc., and the more relaxed atmosphere allowed the ‘true me’ to appear. We’re all actors playing our part, but when you’re dressed in a tail suit and stiff, white collar, that inner you does get stiﬂed. So the tie came off, the hair grew, and I even took on a personal trainer! My core values remained however, and I was able to enjoy an establishment that grew up with the ﬁlm business and remains an iconic hotel full of famous and infamous people. A great memory will always be listening to the tales of the O.J. Simpson trial, and the characters involved, told by Dominic Dunne who was writing his columns for Vanity Fair from the hotel. Many more tales could be told, but discretion is still my middle name!

ANYTHING FOR GRANTED.

THE RITZ LONDON

72 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

You speak of the culture shock you went through after making the move Stateside from the UK. Describe those initial feelings – was it more than just the American way of doing business that threw you off-guard? I had two culture shocks – the ﬁrst when moving from London to Washington D.C. – coming from an environment where one had a profession working with others who were also in their chosen profession, to one where the hotel business for the majority of

THE CONNAUGHT

people was a stepping-stone to another career. I came from a great hotel in London, The Connaught, where we were able to choose our guests, and budgets were a dirty word, to quite the opposite – certainly more the ‘real life’ to ﬁnd how business should be conducted. The next culture shock was the move to the west coast, to Los Angeles and The Chateau Marmont. The hotel profession fell even further behind and one was surrounded by actors, dancers and musicians. Great people with a different culture, but the ﬁrst hotel in which I relaxed as a person…so maybe not a shock but a relief.

back-and-forth…models, clothes racks, beautiful people and at 9am on 9/11 it all came to an abrupt halt… The shows were cancelled, nobody knew what to do with themselves, nobody could leave and at 11am a Jesuit priest walked into the hotel, covered in grey dust, having walked the 20 or so blocks from the World Trade Center to ﬁnding himself by accident at our door. We ran him a bath, gave him tea and he stayed with us for a few days. At that point reality set in and people were kind and gracious to each other in a way not usually seen in NYC, realising that life was precious and fragile, and it was people that mattered and not the latest fashion. The roads were closed and members of the Saudi Royal family were whisked away from the hotel whilst no one else could leave. People who were evacuated from their homes downtown were looking for somewhere to live. We pushed carts 14 blocks to get food and laundry, and we sealed windows to help stop the smell from coming in. On the other hand it was important to carry on in as normal a way as possible and to bring some semblance of order back into the lives of those who stayed with us and for those who worked with us. I was able to go home to the Upper West Side where everything appeared as it did before, but returned each day to SoHo were the streets were closed and the ﬁre stations were shrouded in black for those they lost. Life slowly returned to SoHo, the roads were opened after about a week, guests were able to check out and a new group of people arrived. We housed those who were evacuated including the person in charge of the army, and the Mercer’s kitchen sent food and helped feed workers

There’s no such thing as a guaranteed celebrity sighting even in Hollywood but The Chateau Marmont is as close as they come. You HOSPITALITY CAN GET spent six years as LOST IN THE MYRIAD OF the hotel’s GM in the early 90’s. Did it live REQUIREMENTS IT TAKES up to its reputation TO RUN A BUSINESS. during your time there? Absolutely and continually, although I’ve had that situation in every hotel I’ve been involved with. But what sets the Chateau apart from the others is its history, the spirits that walk the corridors and the privacy that allows people to misbehave – and there it shall remain.

You started as GM of The Mercer Hotel in New York in 2001, a month before 9/11 struck. What was it like to be in New York during the days and weeks that followed? I was enjoying the fact that I was back in New York permanently. 9/11 happened as Fashion Week was starting to rev up in the city and The Mercer was full of the fashion elite with much

CHATEAU MARMONT

THE MERCER

at the site. Appearances of normality returned reasonably quickly, but the emotional toll took longer and the reminders were around for quite a while. It seemed that the best thing I could do was provide a space that resembled the life we knew before, whilst paying respect to the situation that we were in.

we’re involved with, travel will continue as before and business will be conducted in much the same way.

How do you think the Brexit fallout and drop in value of Sterling will impact tourism and the hospitality industry across Europe and in the States?

Truthfully, I think the more discerning and sophisticated traveler has always trended toward the individual hotel. When the [multinational] groups began to grow in the 70’s and 80’s, the travelers also increased in numbers and ﬁlled their beds without knowledge of the more individual hotels. Certainly as those new travelers became tired of the cookie-cutter, they found their way to the individual hotels, and so now I think it can be said that there’s a much larger group of sophisticated travelers demanding more individuality in where they stay. At this point I’d like to request that ‘boutique’ is struck form our vocabulary – it is misused, over-used and meaningless now!

I’m not sure anyone has a grip on this yet. Britain is an important market for us for business travel, but not for tourists, and I don’t think that much will change in that respect. The pound has dropped, so [it’s] a great time for Americans to visit the UK – and certainly more expensive for the Brits to come to the US – but the business we deal with will not immediately be affected by such economics. Certainly the lower end of the market and, for those with less to spend, travel will decrease both to Europe and to the US, but at the upper end of the market and for those people that

What’s the trend in the current global market right now and why are more discerning guests opting for a boutique hotel experience over larger, multinational hotel brands?

A GREAT [CHATEAU MARMONT] MEMORY WAS THE TALES OF THE O.J. SIMPSON TRIAL, TOLD BY DOMINIC DUNNE WHO WAS WRITING [FOR] VANITY FAIR FROM THE HOTEL.

74 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

What advantages to the customer are there in the signiﬁcant mergers and monopolies

we’ve been reading about within the hotel industry this last year, for example Marriott’s acquisition of Starwood? I certainly cannot think of any yet – your loyalty program may go further, you may be brainwashed into thinking you’re getting a better deal through relentless advertising, but I’m not sure that can be considered an advantage. Less choice, less competition –ugh!

What’s it been like to work alongside Robert De Niro as one of the Greenwich Hotel's owners/investors? Is he very hands-on in its daily operations? Ira Drukier, our Managing Partner, was delighted to join forces with Mr. De Niro to build and develop The Greenwich, and there was a considerable amount of personal input from both in the development of the hotel. Mr. De Niro continues to show great personal interest in the hotel, although Mr. Drukier is our day-to-day contact for [its] operation.

If Trump Hotels head-hunted you, would you be interested? Deﬁnitely not – the name association would

be too embarrassing!

You’ve been GM of The Greenwich for the past eight years. Will we see you there for another eight, or are there other ports of call in the back of your mind? Never say never, but I cannot imagine a better hotel and have no wish to think of a change. We, as a group of people, have achieved a lot here at The Greenwich and it would be very diﬃcult to leave the family that we’ve created.

As someone who’s spent the better part of his life in hotels, where’s your ultimate escape to unwind as a cultured traveller, and what would you be sipping on? There’s a little restaurant called Sip-Sip on a beautiful pink sand beach on Harbor Island in the Bahamas, and a wonderful hotel called Coral Sands that my husband Howard and I escape to sometimes, with our daughter Lily. She would be sipping a virgin Piña Colada, and Howard and I would be sipping on something with a little more kick – being a Brit quite likely a gin and tonic.

[ON 9/11] THE ROADS WERE CLOSED, AND MEMBERS OF THE SAUDI ROYAL FAMILY WERE WHISKED AWAY FROM THE HOTEL WHILST NO ONE ELSE COULD LEAVE.

THE GREENWICH

BRITISH AIRWAYS CLUB WORLD: HEATHROW TO JFK With a history as long as its jets’ contrails, British Airways (BA) has been the UK's national flag carrier for more than forty years. Following the merger of the British Overseas Airways Corporation (BOAC) and British European Airways (BEA) to formally establish the brand, Sir Colin Marshall and Lord John King launched the airline on 1st April 1974 with a ‘Putting People First’ campaign. The past four decades have seen huge changes in the global aviation industry, including the launch of many new aircraft and the supersonic age. BA began operating its flagship Concorde service in 1976, serving multiple cities including Miami, Singapore and Washington, and then New York in 1977. The airline launched its Boeing 757 in 1983; British Airways launched a new corporate identity in 1984; and 1988 saw BA merge with Gatwick-based British Caledonian Airways. Unveiling its new livery about

New York the business class queue was more than thirty minutes long, with just five out of more than a dozen desks open. Now, perhaps I've been spoiled by the likes of Emirates and Qatar Airways - neither of which would dream of making their business-class passengers wait for more than a few minutes (if that) to check-in for a long-haul flight - but if you want to put premium passengers into a foul mood before they even board the plane, making them wait in a single queue with 100 other Club World passengers will do the trick. Few carriers still fly Boeing 747-400's and these planes will probably vanish from the skies sooner rather than later in favour of larger-capacity, double-decker super-jumbos and more fuel-eﬃcient longer-range aircraft. It will be a sad day when 747's eventually disappear, but for now BA is the world’s largest operator

a decade later, just before the new millennium BA helped form the oneworld alliance. British Airways was responsible for pioneering flat beds in first class in 1996 - well ahead of the curve - and would later expand these to business. BA continued to innovate in the decade that followed, opening T5 at Heathrow, merging with Iberia to form the International Airlines Group in 2011 and, just a few years ago, became the first airline to have both the Airbus A380 and Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner in service. I was lucky enough to fly on BA’s Concorde to JFK a few times before the iconic supersonic jet was retired in 2003; but, post 9/11, I hadn't travelled on BA to New York for the best part of a decade, preferring instead to use Middle Eastern carriers out of Gulf hubs, so I was quietly excited at the prospect of again experiencing ‘The World's Favourite Airline’ across the Atlantic.

of this aircraft, with 40 in its fleet, and these wide-bodied jets are the work-horse of the airline's Trans-Atlantic routes. I had pre-booked a seat on the upper deck because, for me, this part of a 747 has always felt a bit like a private flying club, with just twenty business class seats and two dedicated cabin crew. But it wasn't until I was actually in my seat that I realised quite how strange the ‘yin/yang’ seating configuration was, with all window seats facing backwards, and paired passengers looking directly at each other. Obviously this would have been absolutely fine if I’d been flying with a friend seated across from me. But I wasn't. So with the partition down I was within a few feet and in the direct eye line of a complete stranger. Fortunately (or so I thought) the partition would be up for the entire flight. When I tried to get comfy the whole seat set-up felt a tad antiquated. The controls were basic and worn; my screen was a small-ish 10 inches or so. The seat didn't feel spacious at 20 inches wide. I was completely exposed to the aisle with no privacy. And the fold-down stool/ottoman

Checking-in at London's Heathrow Terminal 5 is normally a breeze, but on the Saturday morning of my flight to 76 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

contraption - which was a vital part of the flat-bed - was unstable and fiddly to adjust to the correct height. When in place it wasn’t at the same height as the seat in flat mode, making the end of my bed somewhat saggy. I remember the days when the Club World amenity kit was a rather nice Molton Brown affair, akin to the current BA First Class amenity kit. On my flight to JFK, I was given a folded fabric bag containing a few Elemis amenities in tiny sizes, plus the usual toothbrush etc. Nothing high-end and certainly not worth taking off the plane. Meanwhile the vases in the toilets were devoid of flowers and the magazine selection on offer mainly consisted of BA publications. Basically, there was no sign of flair or glamour anywhere. In-flight, meals and drinks were served from slightly raggedy-looking trollies, there were only two choices of red and white wines, and meal times were set with no room for manoeuvre, or so I was told. Having my lunch a little later or partaking of afternoon tea a little earlier was

The food served was fine - but gourmet, decadent or deluxe it was most certainly not. Only stewed, percolated coffee was served and there was no option to have a latté, espresso or decaf. In fact there was a noticeable absence of being offered drinks - or even being asked if I needed anything - throughout the flight. The one time I pressed my call button it wasn't responded to and I had to stop a passing stewardess to get a glass of water. Apart from meal times, not once was I offered a drink during the six hours and forty minutes we were in the sky, making the flight feel impersonal and precluding the possibility of some friendly banter with the cabin crew. Traditional British afternoon tea is one of the reasons many passengers take a morning BA flight out of London across the Atlantic. Consisting of finger sandwiches, scones, clotted cream, jam, tea and champagne, for me this was the culinary highlight of the flight. But served an hour before landing, what would have been a treat was very rushed, and I had to hurriedly consume the contents

simply not possible on my flight apparently. In between meal times, ready-poured glasses of water, juice and wines were left on a tray by the magazine rack towards the rear of the upper deck cabin for passengers to help themselves, with a noticeable lack of snacks such as crisps or fruits to accompany them, and no nibbles on the menu to order in between meals. The unorthodox seating configuration, which allowed for a decent amount of room in between seats and a spacious central aisle in the upper deck, was completely defeated by the cabin crew who lowered and raised at will the partition between me and my fellow passenger, in order to deliver and collect food trays and re-fill drinks. Passing items directly in front of my face and my screen while I was trying to watch a movie, without so much as asking first or even saying "excuse me", seemed to be normal practice for the cabin crew on my flight, who didn't seem to care one iota about interrupting me, and couldn't be bothered to walk round to serve my twinned passenger sitting opposite.

of my tray before it was whipped away from me. It was rather a shame that I couldn't enjoy my afternoon tea in a relaxed and leisurely fashion, and it would have been nice to refresh with a hot or cold towel before landing, but none were offered before we touched down in JFK. There is a fine line between poor and discreet service, and some passengers may of course prefer to be completely left alone in-flight, but sadly my Heathrow JFK experience on BA was cold, impersonal and rather stiff. I’m pretty sure that I would’ve enjoyed a better flight on Virgin or La Compagnie crossing the Atlantic out of London. British Airways definitely needs to improve its Trans-Atlantic business class offering in order to catch-up with its competitors. Perhaps this will happen when it’s fleet of 747’s are eventually retired and replaced with gleaming new planes. Nicholas Chrisostomou flew BA Club World, LHR JFK, on 18 June 2016.

SKY BRIEF NEW THREADS FOR ALITALIA CREWS Alitalia’s gorgeous new

C-3PO WILL FLY FOR ANA Piggy-backing on the global phenomenon

crew uniforms epitomise the Golden Age of air travel - a look that many airlines around the world are trying to recapture - but the Italians have done it with a cute twist that screams style and glamour. Designed by haute couturier Ettore Bilotta at his atelier in Milan, the sophisticated new look has been produced and tailor-made by a team of nearly 500 people in Italy, with fabrics made in Tuscany, silk from Como and men’s uniforms tailored in Puglia, accessorised with leather gloves from Naples, and shoes fashioned in in the Marche region - all designed to re-imagine the nostalgic 1950’s and 60’s. The new uniforms are part of Alitalia's re-branding initiative and a much wider program to turnaround the airline, promoted by majority stakeholder Etihad Airways. Alitalia is also currently designing new uniforms for the airline’s flight crew and operational staff. www.alitalia.com

of Star Wars is doing wonders for ANA's international brand awareness, so it's little surprise that Japan's largest airline has announced that it will introduce another new Star Wars-themed aircraft to its fleet, adding to its three existing planes that have Star Wars characters as livery. The latest droid to grow wings is C-3PO - one of the only characters to be featured in every single Star Wars film to date. As part of the airline’s five-year deal with Walt Disney, the iconic droid will grace one of the carrier's 777 aircraft, which will be deployed on domestic routes from 1st April 2017. The C-3PO jet is yet more striking than All Nippon Airways' other Star Wars-painted planes, since it will feature a full golden fuselage and exposed wiring decals above the wings. www.ana-sw.com/jets/

CYPRUS’ NEW COBALT AIRLINE New low-cost Cypriot airline, Cobalt, launched in July 2016. A collaboration between local and Chinese investors, Cobalt has returned some of the connectivity to the Mediterranean island that had been lost following the collapse of Cyprus Airways in January 2016, flying from Larnaca to Athens, London Stansted, Manchester, Chania, Heraklion, Thessaloniki and Dublin. Operating under Continental Airlines' former code of CO, the new airline plans to build on the success of the low-cost flying model by offering services that will not only fill the gap left by Cyprus Airways, but also strengthen the image of Cyprus as a year-round destination, and create an important regional aviation hub at Larnaca. Cyprus has seen visitor numbers to its popular beach resorts soar since the island emerged from its deep financial crisis of 2013. Cobalt plans to run a fleet of five planes by the end of this summer, doubling the number of aircraft in 2017. www.cobalt.aero

UNITED'S NEW POLARIS CABIN United Airlines has revealed it's swishy new business class cabin - named after the North Star - designed to help passengers get a good night’s sleep on long-haul flights. Every passenger will have direct aisle access and a 180-degree lie-flat bed with up to 6-ft. 6-in of bed space. Each suite will have a DND sign, mood lighting, one-touch lumbar support, surfaces for working and dining and a 16-inch HD screen. Featuring custom-built seats and custom bedding including duvets, lightweight day blankets, and a large and small pillow by Saks Fifth Avenue, United's Polaris cabin will be available on intercontinental flights between the US and destinations such as London commencing December 2016. In addition to a re-designed cabin, passengers will have access to swanky, new, pre-flight Polaris lounges, featuring menus created by famous chefs, spa-like showers and sleep pods - a first for a US airline. www.united.com/polaris

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 79

No Shoes Required

Seven miles off the coast of Mexicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yucatan Peninsula, the tourist trap resorts give way to a paradise that even Robinson Crusoe would be hard-pressed to plot on a map. Welcome to the island of Holbox. A hide-out for the 18th-century pirates who sought refuge on its shores, the 1.5 kms spit of land was a haven for early Mayan settlers. Alex Benasuli discovers that little has changed in this idyllic oasis.

nce you have made the effort to reach Isla Holbox (fly to Cancun + 90-minute ground transfer + 30-minute boat ride), the very concept of effort will almost instantly seem a distant memory. There is something about arriving by boat, at an island destination, that makes the vacation experience more exciting. As the mainland goes out of focus and the real world melts away, the letting-go factor increases and a sense of adventure takes over. In Yucatec Maya language, Holbox literally translates to black hole. There are competing narratives over the origins of the name. One states that during Mayan times, the island was famous as a fountain of youth, inspired by its dark, fresh water springs and shallow lagoons. Later, pirates used the island as a staging ground in order to plunder treasure-laden Spanish galleons. Until tourism arrived in the area, Holbox (pronounced hole-bosh in English) was a quiet and sleepy place about fishermen and their families. In many ways it remains that way today. White sandy beaches, calm translucent waters, gentle breezes and an off-the-beaten-track island state of mind all await visitors to Isla Holbox, which lies about 12 kilometers from the mainland, stretching like a barrier island off the northern tip of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.

82 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

Holbox is part of the Yum Balam (Lord Jaguar) biosphere, Mexico’s largest ecological reserve, replete with hawksbill turtles, pink flamingos, white pelicans and numerous other bird and fish species. Measuring just over 41 kilometres long and 1.5 kilometres wide with 2,000 year round inhabitants, the island is comprised mostly of a diminutive port, small town, mangrove swamp forests and, of course, the beach. There are no paved roads and hardly any vehicles. Pedestrians and cyclists share the dirt paths with a fleet of golf cart style taxis. Holbox attracts an intrepid crowd of North Americans and Europeans mostly, searching for a genuinely low key and stress-free beach experience, with just enough creature comforts to relax and sufficient quirkiness to feel real. It’s the kind of place where professionals and creative types mingle easily with backpackers and gap year students. It’s as comfortable for couples and families as it is for solo travellers. The focal point of Isla Holbox is its long beach. As far as beaches go, it’s about as perfect as it gets. The sand is fine and white but just coarse enough to feel comfy underfoot. The approach to the sea is flat and relatively hard, ideal for walking, running or just lounging around. The sea is clear and calm, with that kind of blue that impossibly seems more brilliant with every change in the combination of

clouds and sun overhead. Despite the tides the water level mostly remains shallow, allowing for safe and easy access. Every hundred metres or so, a different bijou hotel concession tastefully lays out lounge chairs and hammocks under the gently swaying palm trees. Small beachside restaurants and bars serve up fresh, simple fare with a dash of sophistication. Sunsets are truly magical, seeming to last forever, casting the kind of gold, honey and amber-coloured light that makes everyone and everything look gorgeous. The end of the day and early part of the evening are planned according to where you want to watch the sunset. One of the best places on the island to take all this in is Casa las Tortugas (www.holboxcasalastortugas.com). Founded by an Italian family that became seduced by Holbox on a visit 14 years ago, the 23-room hotel, restaurant and spa is a real labour of love. An intimate central courtyard, based around a kidney shaped pool, is surrounded by lush vegetation, palm trees, bougainvillea and local jungle plantings. Rooms are charming, romantic and comfortable - with Wi-Fi and air-con - decorated with local arts and craft and stocked with organic bath products. For those wishing to splurge, from an ocean front room you literally step right onto the beach. Immediately beyond the pool are an eatery and beach, known collectively as

Mandarina Restaurant & Beach Club by Casa las Tortugas. The food here, like many places on the island, is fresh and tasty. Scrumptious breakfasts feature a variety of egg dishes, fruits, organic yogurts and pancakes, or go native and try traditional Mexican Chilaquiles - crisp tortilla triangles, covered with green or red salsa, garnished with shredded white cheese and served with eggs and refried beans. Ceviche and octopus carpaccio are local specialties which are perfect for lunch. Freshly caught fish - usually grouper, sea bass and tuna - are menu staples. Hardly surprising given its Italian owners, some excellent homemade pasta dishes feature on the menu. As sunset approaches, the emphasis moves to margaritas and mojitos. Once a week a DJ plays chilled music on the roof terrace, adding a groovy and funky edge to the proceedings. The most stressful part of your Isla Holbox experience may well be deciding whether to opt for a sun lounger or hammock for your beach relaxation. If, like me, you sometimes struggle to switch off, you will find the atmosphere of nowhere to go and little to do ideal for tucking into that book you have been meaning to read for ages. Life at Casa Las Tortugas can be as simple as breakfast, beach, lunch, beach, pool, sunset and dinner. In addition to morning yoga classes daily, there is a cute spa

that offers a selection of traditional and Mayan influenced treatments. If more energetic activity is needed, an on-site kiteboarding school offers lessons and equipment rental, whilst the calm and relatively shallow inland waters are ideal for paddle-boarding (www.holboxkiteboarding.com). Those of a more adventurous persuasion can kayak around the undeveloped side to the island, with its mangrove forests, inlets and channels where crocodiles, flamingoes and ospreys roam. On neighboring and unpopulated Isla Pajaros (Bird Island) and Isla Passion (Passion Island), even more colourful and natural flora and fauna abound. Holbox has also developed a reputation for being a global hot spot for viewing the largest living fish on the planet whale sharks. At up to 12 metres long and sometimes weighing as much as 15 tons, whale sharks are plankton feeders and therefore not threatening like their predatory cousins. People now travel from around the world to Holbox to watch the whale sharks. The season for this spectacle runs from May through September, effectively making Holbox a year round destination. Adjacent to Casa las Tortugas is the even more rustic Posada Mawimbi, whose al fresco beachside restaurant, right on the sand, serves particularly tasty fare (www.hotelholboxisland.com). Casa Sandra offers slightly more luxurious lodgings, and whilst not directly on the beach, its spa and dozen guest rooms are spread out across a hacienda style main building and some out houses with lush gardens and a large heated pool, making the place feel more like a home than a beach house. Casa Sandraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant is

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 85

more refined than the rest of the island’s eateries, and hence Holbox’s equivalent of fine dining (www.casasandra.com). At the furthest end of the beach - a 5-minute golf cart taxi ride away - is Hotel Las Nubes, which is one of the best vantage points from which to experience a classic Holbox sunset. Do stay, post sunset, for dinner (www.hotellasnubes.com). Holbox town, on the other side of the island, comprises a typical Mexican main square with a grid of dirt road streets branching out from it. A handful of boutiques and restaurants are worth a look in. Brightly coloured murals adorn many of the buildings in the town, which is as much for locals as it is for tourists. Children play, seniors watch the word go by and dogs and the occasional chicken weave their way in and out. It is lively yet peaceful and friendly. Unlike most other tourist spots in Mexico, Holbox town retains a charming, authentic character. If you are looking to vacation in a low-key, off-the-beaten-track paradise, Isla Holbox is your place. For the moment at least, Holbox strikes that delicate balance of supporting a growing cottage tourist industry in harmony with its pristine environment. The beaches and the sea are truly stunning. This is a place to leave the world behind and just be in the moment. Life operates in the slow lane on Holbox. It’s always a good sign that there are many return visitors to the island and I’m already planning my return trip. It’s tempting to keep this tiny gem a secret but that would be selfish. Everyone could probably benefit from a little Holbox in their lives.

SPOTLIGHT Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the two thousand-year-old Nabataean rose-red city of Petra in Jordan and finds himself striding around an ancient, living movie-set Images courtesy of www.visitjordan.com

The fascinating country of Jordan has only really been painted into the global atlas since 1921, when it emerged as the Emirate of Transjordan in the wake of the First World War, before achieving full independence from the British in 1946. I find it somewhat incredible that a modern-day country only came to the world's attention less than 100 years ago – yet four millennia of civilisation inhabited the same lands before. A glance at a map of the region shows what every Egyptian pharaoh and Roman emperor knew thousands of years ago – that Jordan is the crossroads of the Middle East. Its centrality is visible in its list of neighbours, sharing borders with Iraq, the Palestinian territories, Israel, Saudi Arabia and Syria, the latter being the root cause of a severe drop in tourism visiting Jordan since the start of the Syrian civil war and the rise of the so-called Islamic State. Resulting from this decline, the Jordanians are suffering despite the British Foreign Office only advising against travel within 3km of the Syrian border. No other travel advisories are active against the rest of the country, placing Jordan in the same category as Thailand for instance. At a time when the region has largely eviscerated itself, Jordan is a much safer travel option than most of its neighbours, and its people are some of the friendliest and most genuinely welcoming in the Middle East. Whilst the going may currently be a little tough for those working at Petra due to the tourist downturn, now is a rather good opportunity to enjoy the Nabataeans’ finest achievement without the usual crowds, and at the same time experience some authentic Jordanian hospitality. If you pair visiting Petra with some downtime by the Dead Sea, plus a day-trip and sunset in the breathtaking Wadi Rum, you’ll have the makings of a truly incredible week-long vacation. 88

During your stay at Mövenpick Resort Petra, don’t miss the unique opportunity to cook side-by-side with the resort’s head chef. Roll up your sleeves and learn how to prepare every detail of an authentic Jordanian three-course meal. It is more than just a cooking lesson, It is a lively first-hand journey into Jordanian culture. For reservation please call Food & Beverage Department extension 856.

Mövenpick Resort Petra P.O.Box 214, Wadi Mousa, 71810 Petra, Jordan Phone +962 3 215 71 11, Fax +962 3 215 71 12 Reservation Call Centre Phone: +962 6 500 53 00 Toll Free: 0800 22202 resort.petra@movenpick.com www.movenpick.com/petra Moevenpick.Resort.Petra MovenpickJo MovenpickJo

www.movenpick.com

Stay and Cook with the Chef.

MONASTERY (AD DEIR)

very empire that has risen in the Middle East has, at some stage, coveted and conquered the land east of the River Jordan and the Dead Sea which makes up the Hashemite Kingdom – with Babylon, Persia, Rome, Ottoman Turkey, Egypt and Greece all leaving their indelible imprints on the modern Jordanian state. The result is a 21st century country as rich in heritage and teeming with historical sites as any other, not least because - despite the waves of successive invasions, the locals have always been intensely productive. Nowhere is the richness of Jordan's culture more prominently on display – not to mention within touching distance – than the ancient city of Petra, built more than 2,000 years ago by the Nabataeans, an industrious, nomadic Arab tribe. Its elaborate architecture chiseled from the pink-hued cliffs of Wadi Araba valley, in the heart of the Shara Mountains, Petra is located in western Jordan, 150 miles south of the capital of Amman.

No one really seems to know precisely when Petra was built. What’s certain is that the city began to prosper as the capital of the Nabataean Empire from the 1st century BC, and Petra grew rich through the trading of frankincense, myrrh and spices with the foreign realms of China, Egypt, Greece and India, making it the capital of a prosperous mercantile empire. High walls and surrounding mountains served as intimidating defenses against raiders tempted to plunder the city's immense wealth. There’s a reason why the main entrance to Petra, the Siq, is a twisting gorge so narrow in some places that only two camels could pass at a time. Petra

continued to thrive, even when it was later annexed to the Roman Empire, until a large earthquake in 363 AD destroyed much of the city. The devastating effects of the earthquake - coupled with a change in the most important trading routes criss-crossing the region - eventually led to the gradual commercial decline of the city, and Petra was eventually abandoned. By the middle of the 7th century, the ancient city was deserted by pretty much everyone except the local Bedouin. Petra lay completely unheard of to the Western world and forgotten for centuries – known only to the Bedouin who made it their home – until a Swiss traveller, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, happened upon the site quite by chance in 1812. Since then, numerous modern day excavations by archaeological institutions hailing from different parts of the world have added greatly to what is known about Petra. In 1985 it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, and tourists began flocking to Petra in noticeably larger numbers after it was featured in the 1989 film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. In October 2014 a new, well-designed visitor centre was inaugurated by His Majesty King Abdullah, taking the Petra experience into the 21st century…at the entrance at least. In 2007 Petra was announced to be one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. A one-day ticket to Petra costs 50 JD (EUR 64 / GBP 54 / USD 70 as of 26 July 2016) for foreigners staying at least one night in Jordan. It’s not cheap to get in and so, as always suggested by The Cultured Traveller when visiting a historic site in an unfamiliar country, enlisting the services of an August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 91

expert guide is a must – not least to get the most out of your visit. After all, you would have travelled an awful long way to get there. Our guide, Mohammad, was an affable, English-speaking professional and member of the Jordan Tour Guides Association (mohammad.alaya@yahoo.com). Be sure to arrange your guide before arriving in the area, so that he or she can meet you in the morning and walk you through the visitor centre and into the site. We stayed overnight in Wadi Mūsā before our Petra visit, so as to get an early start the next day. The best hotel in town is without a doubt the Mövenpick Resort Petra, located directly opposite the entrance to the ancient city. Combining Oriental flair and Middle Eastern décor with modern-day conveniences, a few nights staying here – being looked after by charming local staff who really go out of their way to make tourists feel comfortable and want for nothing – is a pleasurable treat, and gives visitors a luxe base from which to explore Petra and Wadi Rum. The Cultured Traveller cannot recommend highly enough, hotel manager Rania Bawalsa and her incredibly friendly and helpful team at Mövenpick Resort Petra. When visiting Petra it’s important to properly prepare yourself for a day traversing semi-rugged terrain and dirt tracks in often direct sunlight, climbing hundreds of steps and rocks and negotiating many kilometres. Walking long distances is an inherent and unavoidable part of visiting Petra – except covering some stretches on the back of a donkey or in a two-person carriage, which are expensive – so be sure to wear comfortable cross-trainers or durable

TREASURY (AL KHAZNA)

shoes with strong, flexible outsoles. If you intend to climb the 850 raggedy steps cut into solid rock up to the Monastery at the far end of the site – the largest and, arguably, most impressive Nabataean temple in Petra – you must wear footwear equipped for the purpose or you simply won’t make it. Take bottled water and something to cover your head and shoulders. Sunglasses are a must and carry a wodge of local currency in case of emergency – but don’t show it to anyone! Avoid booking animal rides from the main Petra entrance to the Treasury (Al Khazna). The distance of about a mile going downhill is entirely walkable, and arriving on foot is an evocative element of the Petra experience. I doubt whether you’ll ever forget your first sight of the Treasury, as you emerge from the Siq. Despite the fact that the carved, colonnaded wonder has illuminated countless documentaries and films, its familiarity does not diminish its sheer majesty when you see it for yourself, and are confronted by the 40-metre-high edifice of intricate Corinthian columns, friezes, figurines and more. It’s a breathtaking spectacle. Don’t be afraid to sit in the café opposite, order tea and gaze upon the Treasury’s magnificent façade at leisure. It truly is one of the world’s most awe-inspiring sights. Similarly, casting your eyes upon the Monastery (Ad Deir) for the very first time – having climbed halfway up a mountain at the far end of the expansive site to get there – is equally jaw-dropping and another experience to be

MONASTERY (AD DEIR) August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 93

savoured by resting your feet opposite and having a good look. The Monastery is one of Petra’s largest monuments, its façade measuring approximately 48 sq. m. If you intend to ascend the 850 steps on foot, allow yourself 40-50 minutes to reach the summit and half an hour to descend carefully. In between the Treasury and the Monastery are countless stunning monuments and historical sites worth seeing. You can spend anything from half a day to two full days exploring the treasures of Petra. Be sure to also see the Colonnaded Street, Royal Tombs, Bab Al Siq and the splendid Theatre carved into the side of the mountain at the foot of the High Place of Sacrifice – even if you’re only visiting the site for 5 or 6 hours, which really is the bare minimum to appreciate the splendour and importance of Petra. I visited Petra with friends and we only had half a day to cover the most important parts, (thankfully I had visited before in a more leisurely fashion), and, despite spending a lot of time on foot, it’s worth noting that we still spent around 50 JD each on donkey and carriage transportation. It’s hard to say whether being spotlighted in an American action-adventure movie, and being named a wonder of the world were curses or blessings for Petra. Whilst the international exposure obviously grew visitor numbers and income for the region and Jordan, the increased tourist traffic has damaged the monuments, and there’s a worry that Petra could become endangered, possibly prompting access restrictions. One of the beauties of the site is the current freedom to climb wherever visitors want. This may not be the case in years to come, so plan a trip soon before large parts of Petra are fenced-off and visiting this spectacular ancient city becomes an altogether different experience. The Cultured Traveller flew to Jordan on Royal Jordanian, which flies daily to Queen Alia International Airport, 20 miles south of the capital Amman, from countless destinations around the world www.rj.com. 94

MONASTERY (AD DEIR)

Sophie’s 33 Harcourt Street www.sophies.ie

Vintage Cocktail Club

15 Crown Alley, Temple Bar www.vintagecocktailclub.com

Peruke & Periwig 31 Dawson Street

www.peruke.ie

Explore a new world of flavours in one of

Dublin’s award winning cocktail bars! @SophiesDublin @PerukePeriwig @VCCDublin

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Gordon Hickey gives us the inside craic about his colourful and vibrant home city of Dublin.

he capital of the Republic of Ireland is once again a thriving, diverse metropolis, boasting one of the most colourful and multicultural populations in the world. The country now seems to be past the worst of the economic crisis of 2007/8 and sprightly looking to the future. The warm people of Dublin, known as “Dubs”, have repeatedly been named some of the friendliest townsfolk on the planet by various travel magazines. There’s also a unique magic to the city, well it’s more “the craic” as it’s commonly referred to in Ireland. Craic is an infectious, fun and happy energy that floats in the air of the bustling cosmopolitan capita capital, which visitors only properly experience by fully imme immersing themselves in the local culture, and exploring Dublin’s medie medieval streets that are the pumping veins of the buzzing city.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND

Dubli Dublin is geographically blessed. It sits on the east coast of Irelan Ireland, one of the driest places on this usually rainy island. The tranqu tranquil Irish Sea lies to the east, the historic lands of Boyne Valley to the north, the rolling Dublin Mountains to the south and lush green fields to the west. Dublin’s location means there are countless places to visit, a multitude of things to see and many things to do within a short hop, skip and a jump of the city limits. Although home to more than one million people, Dublin is an easy city to navigate on foot. The city centre is compact and most of the main tourist attractions are nestled together. The majority of the must see spots in Dublin are located on the south side of the River Liffey that divides the city in half. Start your day with a hearty breakfast in the café upstairs at the Kilkenny Shop on Nassau Street (www.kilkennyshop.com). There’s nothing like a traditional Irish breakfast to fuel you for a GRAFTON STREET

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 97

busy day of activities ahead. The shop below actively promotes Irish craft and design and showcases the best of Irish talent - retailing clothing, jewellery and art by local designers and artists - so be sure to have a gander before you depart. Just around the corner on Kildare Street, visit the National Museum of Ireland to see ceramics, glass, Viking artifacts and many other archaeological objects found in Ireland and around the world, including 3000 year-old gold chalices. You can learn about St. Patrick and Ireland’s religious past, and see Cashel Man Ireland's oldest bog body - who lived and died in the early Bronze Age around 2000BC (www.museum.ie/archaeology). After the National Museum, stroll across to Trinity College, a veritable oasis of calm in the heart of Dublin City. The university dates back to 1592 and is home to one of the most beautiful libraries in the world - The Long Room Library - that looks like something straight out of a Harry Potter novel. The library was built between 1712 and 1732 and houses some of the oldest books in the world, including the extraordinary 9th century Book of Kells, Ireland's greatest cultural treasure, generally considered to be the finest surviving illuminated manuscript to have been produced in medieval Europe. Each day the library carefully turns a page and reveals a little bit more of the book (www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells). Five minutes walk from Trinity College, is the Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum Experience, offering a peek into the careers of U2, Sinead O’Connor, Thin Lizzy and other musical legends that hail from The Emerald Isle (www.irishrocknrollmuseum.com). About 3 km from Dublin city centre and for something a bit different, Kilmainham Gaol was the final holding place for leaders of the Easter Uprising of April 1916 in Dublin, and where they were executed (www.kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie). Dublin's main shopping area runs right through the city center, south of the Liffey. A pedestrian-only zone during business hours, Grafton Street is the Irish equivalent of a British high street. Here you will find famed swanky Irish department store, Brown Thomas, which stocks everything from Marc Jacobs to Gucci, as well as homegrown designers including Orla Kiely and Louise Kennedy (www.brownthomas.com). For a more intimate retail experience, head to George's Street Arcade, an airy Victorian-era shopping arcade, which 98

THE LONG ROOM LIBRARY

houses a long series of shops along either side, together with some quirky temporary stalls in the middle selling everything from vintage clothing to records (www.georgesstreetarcade.ie). If literature is your thing you’ll have to arrange your time wisely. Dublin has a rich literal history and writers like James Joyce, Bram Stoker and Oscar Wilde all called Dublin home at some point in their lives. The Dublin Writers Museum, occupying an original 18th century house on Parnell Square, is a great place to find out more about some of Dublin's literary celebrities over the past three hundred years (www.writersmuseum.com). Crossing to the other side of the city, you should definitely visit Whitefriar Street Church, where the relics of St. Valentine are kept, represented by a statue in a niche of gold mosaic, over a dedicated altar. Every year hundreds flock on St. Valentines Day to honour the saint, many wishing and praying for love (www.whitefriarstreetchurch.ie). If you’re sick of love or love sick and need to drown your sorrows, you only need cast your eyes to the nearest corner to find a watering hole that will ease your pain. Dublin is a young and vibrant town, and yes, the stereotype is true, it’s a city of drinkers! Guinness, Jameson Irish Whiskey and Baileys are all produced in Dublin. Best to avoid Temple Bar for drinking, since it’s full of Irish-themed bars catering to tourists. The beautiful cobbled streets are lovely to walk, but the bars are overpriced and usually way too busy to enjoy a relaxing libation. The Guinness Storehouse is an obvious and popular choice for visitors and is the busiest tourist attraction in the country after Dublin Zoo (www.guinness-storehouse.com), but there are literally hundreds of bars to chose from if you fancy a tipple. Ireland was once the most Catholic country in the world and the hundreds of churches dotted throughout Dublin are a testament to this. The church has seen a huge decline in people going to mass, and so has sold off much of its property portfolio in the last two decades. The Church Bar and Restaurant (close to Whitefriar Street Church) has preserved the religious elements of the building’s past and is one of the most beautiful and historic bars to enjoy a drink in the city (www.thechurch.ie). Another fine example of a bar paying homage to its past is The Bank on College Green, which has retained most of the original

THE BANK ON COLLEGE GREEN

PERUKE & PERWIG

fittings from its financial days, including Chatwood safes which can still be found in the basement. The seafood chowder served here is delectable (www.bankoncollegegreen.com). Visit John Jameson’s original Bow Street distillery in Smithfield, have a guided tour, and for an extra EUR 22.50 pull up a stool at JJ’s Bar and order a tasting mat with four glasses of Jameson Family Reserve whiskeys (www.jamesonwhiskey.com). Last but by no means least, The Brazen Head is the oldest bar in Ireland and has been serving the citizens of Dublin since 1198 (www.brazenhead.com). Dublin’s nightclub scene has declined somewhat in the past decade, due to the licensing of late night bars that stay open until the early hours, but for those that want to party later, my pick would be the recently renovated and super plush Farrier & Draper, set in a beautiful 17th century town house (www.farrieranddraper.ie) and Krystle Nightclub which is always busy with an Irish celebrity crowd (www.krystledublin.com). On Saturday The Academy Dublin hosts a very entertaining circus-themed clubnight that’s well worth a visit (www.theacademydublin.com).

attractions. Erected at the beginning of the century, all of the hotel’s 145 bedrooms were stylistically overhauled in 2013, courtesy of leading Irish architect Nikki O’Donnell. The Morrison’s spacious penthouse suite boasts panoramic wraparound views of the city, and has hosted countless world famous stars of rock and pop. Meanwhile the ground floor bar offers a unique Gentlemen’s Afternoon Tea until 6pm daily, swapping finger for steak sandwiches, beer sliders, smoked rasher scones and whiskey chocolate truffles, all washed down with a pint of Wicklow Wolf (www.morrisonhotel.ie). The Clarence Hotel sits on the opposite side of the river, and is famed for hosting the celebrity crowd when they descend upon Dublin. Naomi Campbell, George Clooney and a host of other A-listers choose this boutique, mid-range 49-roomed hotel, which is owned by Bono and The Edge of U2 fame. Three notable F&B venues - The Liquor Rooms, Cleaver East By Oliver Dunne and Bison Bar & BBQ - are attached to The Clarence, and all are well worth checking-out if you need to be fed or watered (www.theclarence.ie). If fancy pads aren't your thing, funky boutique hotel The Dean on Harcourt Street (www.deandublin.ie), and 187-bedroomed Marker Hotel in Grand Canal Dock (www.themarkerhoteldublin.com), are stylish and chic. Both house hip restaurants and boast two of the best rooftop bars in the city.

“Dublin’s location means there are countless places to visit, a multitude of things to see and many things to do within a short hop, skip and a jump of the city limits.”

There are plenty of cool places to rest your head in Dublin. The city is home to some top class hotels, as well as a variety of stylish, independently owned properties. The Morrison Hotel, situated on the banks of the Liffey on the north side of Dublin, is close to all of the city’s main

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 101

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dublin is home to over a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants, so you wont be stuck for choice when looking for an extra special gastronomic experience. â&#x20AC;?

102

You wont have any issues finding a place to satisfy your taste buds in Dublin. The capital is home to some of the best restaurants in Ireland, the recent influx of internationals has brought numerous flavours of the world to the city’s streets, and consequently there’s a huge variety of culinary offerings to suit every palate. A stone’s throw from Grafton Street is Dawson Street. This busy thoroughfare is rammed with cafés and bars catering to all budgets, including Peruke & Perwig, one of the newer eateries on the scene, and an excellent choice for a satisfying and affordable meal in one of the quirkiest and coziest locales in town. Here you will sip expertly prepared cocktails and dine on delicious food under the watchful eyes of the Victorian era portraits that adorn the walls (www.peruke.ie). A great way to get over your hangover from Friday night, is a visit to Temple Bar food market held every Saturday. So much more than a farmers' market, this is a place to grab some fresh Irish cheese, pesto and a loaf of bread baked that morning and sit along the banks of the Liffey for a DIY picnic. Weather permitting, of course. Dublin is home to over a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants, so you wont be stuck for choice when looking for an extra special gastronomic experience. Situated below the Dublin Writers Museum on Parnell Square, Chapter One is perhaps the city’s most consistently well-rated upmarket eatery, serving contemporary Irish cuisine using the finest local ingredients (www.chapteronerestaurant.com). Established since 1989, L'Ecrivain is a superb restaurant run by much-celebrated chef, Derry Clarke and his wife, Sallyanne, situated in the heart of Georgian Dublin (www.lecrivain.com). Both of these restaurants won’t fail to impress even the most discerning of foodies. Dublin is literally bursting at the seams with exciting experiences and memorable places for visiting travellers, and it’s an incredibly sociable city, that feels more like a friendly village due to its low-rise and compact centre. Céad Míle Fáilte is a Gaelic phrase Irish people like to use to welcome people into their homes, towns and cities. Literally it means ‘a hundred thousand welcomes’ and it’s very much a way of life, rather than just a saying. Once you have visited Dublin, I feel sure that you will have a hundred thousand reasons to want to return again and again.

Nicholas Chrisostomou visited the new one billion-dollar Brickell City Centre - beating in the heart of Miami - which has transformed the city's urban core into a vibrant living, shopping, working and dining hive, elevating the downtown pedestrian experience and breathing new life into this previously uneventful neighbourhood. In the middle of all this exciting metropolitan development is new upscale hotel, EAST Miami, and its signature eatery, contemporary Uruguayan restaurant Quinto La Huella, the Miami oﬀspring of globally-acclaimed Parador La Huella in José Ignacio, voted no. 11 on the 2015 list of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants.

104

TASTE &SI P

NEWCOMER QUINTO LA HUELLA BRICKELL CITY CENTRE DOWNTOWN MIAMI Food Atmosphere

he construction of a massive new mixed-use complex of luxury condominium towers, premium oďŹ&#x192;ce buildings, a five-star hotel and a sprawling open-air shopping centre featuring Saks Fifth Avenue, is busy transforming Miami's urban core from a dullish banking ghetto into a vibrant living, working, shopping and dining hive. USD 1 billion Brickell City Centre covering more than 5 million sq. ft. - has been designed to re-imagine the central business district, elevate the downtown Miami pedestrian experience and breathe new life into this previously uneventful neighbourhood. And that it most certainly has achieved. Despite there still being some way to go until the project's completion, the area is already positively overflowing with social electricity, and in light of developer Swire Group's proven track record of successful development on Brickell Key island (home to Mandarin Oriental, Miami), and in the parent company's Hong Kong home, the odds are very much in Brickell City Centre's long term favor. The first 390-unit deluxe condo building opened recently, named Reach, and a second 390-unit tower, Rise, is expected to be completed any day now. A massive upscale oďŹ&#x192;ce building was finished months ago. The first shops in the new half-million sq. ft. multi-level entertainment and retail area - including

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 107

Pierre Koffman Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

Marianne Faithfull

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller Peter Blake Danny La Rue

The Beatles Sam Smith Marco Pierre White Nigel Havers

Eartha Kit Imelda Staunton

Kenneth Halliwell

Joe OrtonPeter CookElton John

Paloma Faith Coco Chanel Beryl Cook

Francis Bacon

Frankie Howard

Dudley Moore

Lucien Freud Diana Judi Dench General de Gualle

Ella Fitzgerald Janis Joplin

Laurence Olivier

Edward Heath Cleo Laine

Stephen Fry Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution Since 1927 Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant & Club Privé

L’ Escargot Depuis 1927

Monday to Sunday: All day until 1am

• 48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

Valentino, Sephora and Chopard - are slated to open in November 2016. Residents need only go downstairs to be in the middle of all the action. A number of funky, well-known culinary brands - including inventive Pan-Asian eatery, Pubbelly Sushi, plus healthy fast-food café, Dr Smood - will be linked to a 38,000 sq. ft. Italian food hall at the north end of the retail space, which will entice visitors with fresh produce and imported artisanal cheeses and meats. Live cooking demonstrations, classes by Italian chefs and wine tastings with food pairings will be scheduled regularly. Luxury Mexican cineplex company, Cinemex, will open its first US movie theatre in Brickell City Centre by the end of this year. Pretty much everything has been designed by Miami-based architecture, interior design and planning

CLIMATE RIBBON

firm, Arquitectonica, founded in 1977 and winner of more than 200 awards for its iconic designs, and unifying the sprawling complex is its platform strategy - set above the city - that allows pedestrians to stroll from one building to the next without crossing a street. Above all of it is a world first USD 30 million "climate ribbon" over the shopping center’s open concourses. This first-of-its-kind 150,000 sq. ft. undulating canopy of insulating glass and steel was created via a collaboration between a Paris-based design firm and the universities of Carnegie-Mellon in Pittsburgh, USA and Cardiﬀ, UK. Not only is the wonderfully artistic structure a passive cooling system that oﬀers shade for pedestrian shoppers, but it also collects and stores rainwater that is reused to irrigate Brickell City Centre's

August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 109

green rooftops, and doubles-up as an eye-catching architectural installation. Without this unique assembly - suspended above the open-air space - the retail element of the complex would feel just like another mall, which the planners didn't want. With it the space feels instinctively Miami’esque. Slap bang in the middle of all this exciting metropolitan development is upscale, 352-room hotel, EAST Miami, with a calming, contemporary-styled interior, accented with Asian influences carefully arranged by a feng shui master. In a city where so many of the resorts are overtly showy and OTT - and one can often worry about what to wear just to cross a hotel lobby - EAST is aimed at unconventional travelers looking for a fun and relaxing place to stay, and as such, doesn’t take itself too seriously and is all the better for it, with ground floor staﬀ attired in shorts, polo shirts and sneakers setting the tone as you

sister. To reinterpret the essence of the beloved Uruguayan beachside eatery in Miami, and reimagine the entire fifth floor of the hotel as an urban culinary oasis - all 10,000 sq. ft. of it - the Swire team drew upon the skills of Los Angeles-based Studio Collective to design an interesting scheme for the 359-seater restaurant. Guests visiting Quinto La Huella can dine indoors in the expansive dining room, which boasts a large central bar, high-tops and conventional seating, accented by textured pottery and orange lamps, and is hung with art curated by Studio Collective in collaboration with Miami-based Uruguayan Sammer Gallery. Here a laid-back, residential feel - imbued with a sense of calm and informality - gently permeates all areas of the room. Meanwhile, customers wishing to dine al fresco, can sit outside on the delightful patio, reminiscent of a secret

PULPO TEN SABI A LA TEMAKI PLANCHA

enter. EAST opened in Miami at the end of May 2016 and is Swire Hotels’ first venture in North America, following the openings of EAST in Hong Kong and Beijing. Unlike most hotels where top floors are reserved for pricey suites, EAST Miami features meeting spaces, lounges and restaurants on high floors, so more people get to enjoy the killer views. Fine dining and drinking options abound within the hotel, including Sugar rooftop bar, which oﬀers an array of expertly mixed libations and Asian-inspired tapas, and contemporary Uruguayan restaurant and bar, Quinto La Huella, which is where The Cultured Traveller had lunch. From the creators of Uruguay’s famed beachside eatery, Parador La Huella, a two-hour drive east of Montevideo and voted no. 11 on the 2015 list of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants, Quinto La Huella is the Miami reinvention of its globally-acclaimed José Ignacio 110 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

garden, brimming with bushy foliage that frames spectacular vistas of Brickell City Centre. In Quinto’s gastronomic driving seat is executive chef Nano Crespo, who’s most recent accolades include opening Soho House’s West Hollywood, Toronto and Chicago locations, where he was responsible for culinary operations and concept development. Crespo’s menu at Quinto focuses on grilled cuisine, much of which emanates from the restaurant’s heart and soul - the signature parilla room - where a dozen or so leather baseball glove-like stools are set around a high bar fashioned from a single tree trunk, facing the wood-fired parilla in a homage-like arrangement. This is where the cooking theatrics really happen - all fire and brimstone, hissing and flames - and one could easily sit here all night watching all manner of dishes being prepared on the flaming parilla. Non-grilled

items like oven-roasted shrimp, fish tartar and steamed mussels can also be found on Crespo’s unpretentious, down-to-earth menu of simple dishes, made with the best ingredients from land and sea, along with a variety of sushi from the restaurant’s in-house sushi bar. My appetizer of octopus a la plancha (USD 19) was meaty, succulent, perfectly grilled and served on a bed of moist potatoes confit, whilst my dining companions munched through a pizza of fresh mozzarella, pecorino, zucchini and mint (USD 17), the empty plate speaking for itself. The starters were paired rather well with a delectable Zorzal Sauvignon Blanc from the Mendoza region of Argentina. What the restaurant (and the nation of Uruguay) does incredibly well is beef, and my rib eye was beautifully grilled and exceptionally tender (USD 36), served with a

side order of grilled veggies that were faultless in every way (USD 10). We ended the meal by sharing the restaurant’s signature Volcán de Dulce de Leche dessert, a warm cake that oozed dulce de leche when cracked open, which had been handcrafted by talented pastry chef, Florencia Courreges. Between the three of us we cleaned the dish of every last remnant of this moreish exercise in sponge and caramel. The entire meal was memorable for the robustness, completeness and flavourful nature of every dish served to our table, and the noticeable lack of pretention throughout the proceedings - something of a rarity in Miami. If this downtown newcomer manages to maintain its high quality fare served by such warm and friendly staﬀ, I can easily see Quinto La Huella becoming an essential part of the city’s burgeoning foodie scene.

VOLCAN DE DULCE DE LECHE

QUINTO LA HUELLA Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Nano Crespo Address: 5th Floor, 788 Brickell Plaza, Miami, Florida 33131, USA Telephone: +1 786 805 4646 Email: dine@quintolahuella.com Website: www.quintolahuella.com Cuisine: Uruguayan Opening hours: Mon - Wed 06:30 - Midnight Thu - Sat 06:30 - 01:00 Sunday 06:00 - Midnight Reservations: Essential

Lunch price: Pizza Bianca (USD 17), Pesca del dia (USD 29), Mollejas (USD 20), Volcán de chocolate (USD 9) Dinner price: Pulpo a la plancha (USD 19), Entrecôte (USD 36), Papa escrachada (USD 10), Volcán de dulce de leche (USD 9) Wheelchair access: Yes Children: Highchairs available. No kids menu. Credit cards: All major Parking: Valet reduced price for diners Reviewed by Nicholas Chrisostomou on 30 June 2016 for lunch.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

ADIÓS SPACE IBIZA

Summer clubbing on the sun-kissed Balearic island of Ibiza has become synonymous with Space Ibiza. No dedicated clubber’s visit to the White Isle is complete without at least one Space Ibiza session. Multiple winner of Best Global Club at the International Dance Music Awards (in 2005, 2006, 2012 and 2013), as well as countless other accolades landed during the iconic venue’s long history, Space Ibiza is almost certainly the world's most famous dance club. Yet on Sunday 2nd 112

October 2016, at the closing party to top all closing parties as the venue’s lease expires, the very last tune will be played at Space Ibiza after 27 years of being at the forefront of the global clubbing industry. To be more accurate, the last track will likely be played sometime in the morning of Monday 3rd October, since in true Space style, the final closing party will be more than 24 hours long, and feature a massive “flight arena” recalling the venue's golden days when planes flew over the heads of

music& NIGHT LIFE AFTER 27 YEARS AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE GLOBAL CLUBBING INDUSTRY, WORLD FAMOUS DANCE CLUB, SPACE IBIZA, WILL BE PLAYING ITS LAST TUNE AT THE END OF THIS SUMMER SEASON AND HAVING ITS FINAL CLOSING PARTY. AS FAMOUS FOR ITS LEGENDARY OUTDOOR TERRACE AS IT IS FOR SUPERSTAR DJ CARL COX’S 15-YEAR RESIDENCY, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER LOOKS BACK AT WHAT MADE AN UNASSUMING BUILDING IN THE MIDDLE OF A CONCRETE CAR PARK IN PLAYA D’EN BOSSA INTO A CLUBBING ICON AND HIGHLY REVERED BRAND.

CARL COX AT SPACE IBIZA

those dancing in the outdoor terrace which used to be open to the skies. The extra space will add around 7,000 people to the club's normal capacity, making room for 15,000 clubbing aﬁcionados to bid a fond farewell to arguably one of the world's most inﬂuential clubs. Yet what is it about this relatively unassuming building, in the middle of an enormous concrete car park in Playa d’en Bossa, that makes it so special? What kind of club conjures up such adoration that thousands of clubbers

make the annual pilgrimage to Ibiza just for its opening and closing parties? The early summer of '86 saw a small electronic dance venue called Space open up next to a water park. A little outrageous and a lot ﬂamboyant, the hazy opening night isn’t much talked about. Don't suppose much is remembered. Back then Space was just another chance to party-on - a welcome addition to the revolutionary

DISCOTECA (MAIN ROOM)

Summer clubbing on the sun-kissed Balearic island of Ibiza has become synonymous with Space Ibiza. No dedicated clubber’s visit to the White Isle is complete without at least one Space Ibiza session. super clubs that were drawing thousands to post-rock, pre-rave Ibiza. People danced at Space by day and hit the water slides at night. In 1989, Space's owner, Pepe Roselló, took over and refurbished a failing conference hall/disco-tech in Playa d’en Bossa, and Space Ibiza in its current form was launched. Roselló was a man with a rich history of owning and managing venues on the island since the early ‘60’s, and he worked the venue like a horse, uniquely bypassing Spanish licensing laws which called for all clubs to be closed for two hours per day. A complete musical devotee, Roselló saw the potential for opening when everyone else had shut, and so he gave his guests two parties - one in the day and one in the evening - running Space with a team of dedicated bar staﬀ and organisers to clean-up the mess and restock the bar, before letting people back in for the next session.

It was Space’s DJs and performers that most shaped the venue, especially in the early days. In 1991 a young British DJ by the name of Alex P had an idea to put a set of decks behind the bar and play for the people otherwise quietly enjoying drinks on the club's chill out terrace. This is how the legendary Space Terrace was born, a cornerstone feature of the venue, with planes soaring over the danceﬂoor earning the now-signature roars from those partying below. A year later Alex P was joined by DJ Brandon Block, and in a very short space of time they turned their Sunday morning sessions into the island’s most popular weekly clubbing event. In the early 90's, alongside the rapid growth of clubbing, the cult of the DJ emerged, and DJs gracing the decks at Space Ibiza included Sven Väth, Smokin’ Jo, Ricky August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 115

Montanari, DJ Dag and Marc Spoon. The club became so successful that countless DJ cum promoters regularly approached Space Ibiza with party proposals, of which Sasha's Up Yer Ronson, Renaissance with Dave Seaman and John Digweed and Carl Cox's React became staples in the summer calendar, the latter spawning one of the most enduring, successful and long-running clubbing partnerships on the island. For 14 years Carl Cox has maintained a world-class residency at Space Ibiza. This summer is his 15th and ﬁnal season at the club. Over the years, Cox and Roselló have developed an inextricable relationship. In coordination with Roselló, Cox was instrumental in shaping the terrace into a legitimate danceﬂoor, turning it into the most iconic open-air spot on the isle.

(of Homelands fame), Danny Whittle and Space Ibiza, these marathon sessions raged from 8am Sunday until 6am Monday and were like nothing Ibiza had ever seen before, the line-ups akin to those of an international festival in terms of big names combined with young, fast-rising talent. The atmosphere was electric both in the main room and outside. One hot Sunday afternoon in August 1999, to celebrate the Radio 1 Weekend, a separate DJ stage was erected at the far end of the terrace and Carl Cox, Mousse T and Boris Dlugosch played to a rampant, up-for-it crowd. Cox’s set won BBC Radio 1’s Best Set of the Season award, and, just a few years later, We Love Sundays @ Space Ibiza (as it had become known), won the much coveted Best Club Night award at the 2002 Dance Music Awards.

In 1999 Space Ibiza turned traditional clubbing concepts on its head by announcing a 22-hour non-stop Sunday party. In a joint collaboration between Darren Hughes

The accolades and acclaim continued to come thick and fast in the new millennium. Space as a name was so huge DJs would beg to mix sets unpaid, and the open-air

In 1989, Space's owner, Pepe Roselló, took over and refurbished a failing conference hall/disco-tech in Playa d’en Bossa, and Space Ibiza in its current form was launched.

SMOKIN' JO AT SPACE IBIZA

116

CARL COX

TERRACE C. 1992

FLIGHT

T ARENA

terrace was now a conglomerate, pioneering the concept of after-parties that have since become commonplace almost everywhere. The meteoric rise of the Space brand led to the inception of Space Entertainment, an agency that masterminds international festivals and events, like Space Ibiza on Tour. Whilst the terrace is now covered, what remains is the smoother, more intimate counterpart to the enormous main room. And while Carl Cox may have gotten his start on the terrace, he’s since become known for his marathon sets in the main room, which he maintains in the best sound quality to be heard anywhere in the world. With its towering Funktion-One system custom made to suit the room’s dynamics - to party in Space Ibiza's main room is to be fully immersed in every beat, note and vocal of a track. Many say it’s the best clubbing experience they've ever had, and awe-inspiring to say the least. And for 2016, Space Ibiza's closing year, the club has actually upgraded the system to be even

more spectacular, with even more decibels. So what will happen at Space Ibiza’s ﬁnal closing party? Through the years the venue has witnessed every type of clubland happening - from Erick Morillo ending his set on 9/11 with Frank Sinatra's New York, New York to people crying, waving American ﬂags and singing-along; to Sven Väth stage diving topless into the crowd at the 2008 closing. It’s rumoured that Carl Cox will play the club’s last rd ever track, closing out his 15-year residency at the legendary Ibithincan venue and ending his partnership with the now 80 year-old Roselló on a dance music high. One thing’s for sure.. with six dance arenas, dozens of DJs and more than 24 hours of clubbing, Space Ibiza will go out with an almighty party, the like and musical decadence of which the White Isle may never see again.

The last track will likely be played sometime in the morning of Monday 3 October, since in true Space style, the final closing party will be more than 24 hours long.

PEPE ROSELLÓ

Space Closing Party, Sunday 2nd October 2016 www.spaceibiza.com

JACQUES AZAGURY IS ONE OF THE MOST DISTINGUISHED COUTURIERS OF THE 20TH AND 21ST CENTURIES. HE HELPED TO TRANSFORM PRINCESS DIANA INTO AN INTERNATIONAL FASHION ICON, AND CONTINUES TO DRESS SOME OF TODAYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST STYLISH WOMEN. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU INTERVIEWED THE DESIGNER WHOSE CREATIONS CONTINUE TO BE THE RED CARPET CHOICE OF MANY LEADING LADIES MORE THAN THIRTY YEARS AFTER AZAGURY DESIGNED HIS FIRST GOWN. 118

GLOBETROTTER What led a young Moroccan boy to develop a penchant for fashion? In Morocco I was surrounded by fashion courtesy of my parents and their friends in the late 1950s. Back then Casablanca was a very fashionable city and destination. By 4 - 5 years of age I was already choosing my own wardrobe, and I was fascinated by the embroidery and colouring of traditional Moroccan dress and costume, some of which still filter through in my designs today, albeit in a European way.

How did the Azagury family's move from Casablanca to London affect you? I was seven years old when we left Casablanca, and as a child of that age one can accept anything that is thrown at you. Of course it was a move of extreme contrasts, but I adapted very quickly to London as my new home.

What do you enjoy most about living in London?

sides: friends, surroundings, clubs, travel, and magazines. I read every fashion magazine I could get my hands on, and back then it was the time of the greats, of course. Yves St Laurent, Valentino, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, etcetera. In terms of fashion there was no other time like it.

As a young designer, what part of the garment production process did you most enjoy or specialise in? I enjoyed experimenting with pattern cutting and deconstructing the process to modernise and simplify my technique. Sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn’t. Also the finishes of garments, and finding new techniques, were immensely exciting to me.

By 4 - 5 years of age I was already choosing my own wardrobe, and I was fascinated by the embroidery and colouring of traditional Moroccan dress and costume.

London is without a doubt one of the world’s greatest cities to live in. It is now moving so fast that every week there is something brand new to see or do, making being in the British capital continuously exciting. The architecture in the City seems to have gone completely futuristic, which sits in stark contract next to old London, but extraordinarily it all works in harmony. And as travelling regularly has become more mainstream and commonplace, the city’s culinary offerings have grown dramatically, making London one of the best places to eat, with some of the finest restaurants in the world. Not so long ago this would have been unheard of!

As you were growing-up, who or what were your biggest fashion influences? When I was young, fashion came at me from all

What would you say was your first notable fashion achievement, which set you on the extraordinary journey of success you are still on today?

While I attending Saint Martin's School of Art I was already thinking about how I would move forward. I started making silk crêpe de chine shirts for myself. It was the look of the day. One day, while shopping at Browns boutique in London, the then buyer, Simone Worthington, so liked the shirt I was wearing, that she asked me if I would make some for the store. Of course I did. That was effectively the start of my business, while I was still at Saint Martin’s, and lead to Browns buying my end of year collection, which put me on the road to high-fashion there and then at the age of 21.

What type of woman do you prefer to design for, and how should wearing one of your creations make her feel? I don’t have a particular woman in mind when I design, neither a character nor a muse. I design for

real women. My creations make a woman feel the best she can as far as her shape is concerned, and eventually the finished garment will make her feel complete for whichever event she is to attend. Basically once a client is wearing an Azagury dress she doesn't have to think anymore.

How do you source fabrics and what are your favourite types of fabric to work with? Alongside designing my biggest passion is fabrics. I spend much of my time looking and sourcing the latest, technically advanced, fabrics. This is exciting for me. The starting point is usually PremiĂ¨re Vision, the global event for fashion professionals, held every September in Paris. Plus of course I have countless agents who visit my atelier. For me fabrics change with seasons. So before visiting a fabric fair, I have a good idea whether it will be a soft collection of chiffons and crĂŞpes etcetera, or a stiff collection of taffetas, organzas and gazaars. Seeing whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on show at a fabric fair usually confirms my thoughts. But with textile manufacturers in China and Korea now able to copy luxury fabrics very well, it is becomingly increasingly difficult to find new fabrics that are less easy to be copied, which has introduced a new challenge for me as a designer.

Visiting which country provides you with the most creative stimulation and ideas for new collections? Whilst I do travel an awful lot, far and wide, my designs are not remotely ethnic or costume in any way, so I tend not to be influenced by any country in particular. It is more a case of certain embroidery catching my eye, or a unique colour combination, that is more likely to influence me.

When designing a gown for a client, what part of the process takes the most time and care to get exactly right? Making the first pattern to specific measurements, and the fitting of the first toile if necessary, take the longest when making a gown for a client. After that the rest is just tweaking. August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 121

How did you meet Diana, Princess of Wales, and please tell us about your first encounter. I first met Princess Diana at the beginning of my career, when I was showing with the London designer collection. I happened to be on my stand, showing the collection, when I turned around and saw the Princess standing there. She was introduced to me by Anna Harvey, then Deputy Editor of Vogue and stylist and confidante to Diana. During our conversation I saw that Diana was looking at a dress frequently. Two weeks later we had a call from the palace and that was the start of a long relationship.

How was Princess Diana as a client - to have in your atelier, discuss designs with and ultimately fit a gown to? Princess Diana was a complete pleasure to dress. She was the most humble, kindest and maintenance-free client one could ever hope to have. We had such fun together, creating her outfits.

Which is your personal favourite of all the dresses you designed for Princess Diana? The black Chantilly lace dress I gifted Diana for her 36th birthday. It was the last dress I made for her and I have very fond memories of our last meetings.

on trend, luxury and glamour - with a certain edge which means that our garments are desirable and above all wearable by women of all ages.

You come from a close-knit fashion and design-orientated family: your sister Solange designs jewellery and brother Joseph shoes. What binds together the family creatively, both historically and in the present? For some reason we have all ended-up being very creative. I don't really know where it came from. Perhaps because our parents were so liberal with us, and didn’t inflict on us any predestined career choices, we were left to develop our own talents which ended-up being creative. Even though we all design, we are not tied together in business or creatively, and we are all independent in our designing. Unfortunately the new generation of Azagury’s is not interested in fashion, but instead is artistic and musical, which I’m happy carries on the family’s creative lean in a different way.

Princess Diana was a complete pleasure to dress. She was the most humble, kind and maintenance-free client one could ever hope to have. We had such fun together, creating her outfits.

One of your current clients, Dame Helen Mirren, has become a glowing role model for mature, sophisticated style. How does designing a gown for a slightly older lady differ to designing for a client half her age? Dame Helen Mirren really does like to prove a point that age has no boundaries! I guess it’s about knowing yourself and how to make the best of your assets.

Instead of making major fashion statements, your clothes tend to be classic, elegant and flattering. How do you continue to achieve this so successfully in an industry which is largely dominated by cutting-edge trends? We have been in business for 35 years, dressing some of the most glamorous women in the world. I believe that one of the secrets of our success is that since we don't stage fashion shows, we are not pressured to produce outlandish and un-wearable clothes to please the press. Therefore our collections concentrate 122 The Cultured Traveller August/September 2016

What would you say has been your greatest career achievement to date?

The longevity of the business and being able to survive in the mad world of fashion for more than thirty years. The demand for Azagury is still as high now, if not higher, than it has ever been, and this makes me proud.

How do you handle a difficult client who comes into your Knightsbridge store? We don't do difficult. They are politely shown the exit.

Please tell us about your perfume range and the process involved in its development and launch? I first started thinking about perfumes to accompany my fashion collections about a decade ago. After three years of working with different noses, my brief was finally accomplished, and we launched our first Azagury signature scent. Following the success of our first perfume, three years later we introduced a range of six Azagury colour-coded perfumes. The six colours cover every event, from daytime through to late night. White, pink, green, yellow, wenge and black. The white, wenge and black perfumes are unisex.

HELEN MIRREN IN JACQUES AZAGURY

JACQUES AZAGURY'S SKETCH OF HELEN MIRREN'S GOWN FOR THE 2014 BAFTA'S

How do you wind down after a long day of designing and fittings? I have many ways of winding down, the main one being gyming, which I follow religiously. For me working-out is the best escape.

What have been your most memorable vacations to date, and what made them special? Swimming with whale sharks in Donsol, south of Luzon Island in the Philippines, was one of my favourite ever trips. I cannot put into the words the combined thrill and fear of swimming just six feet away from a living creature that is almost the size of a London bus! Trekking the Annapurna massif in the Himalayas in north-central Nepal was another trip I will never forget. It was one of the hardest treks I have ever done. But the serenity of the place and breathtaking views more than made up for the pain!

Your favourite hotels in the world? Aman hotels and resorts always tend to come up trumps. The design of its hotel suites and villas are excellent, and the service is usually exquisite.

If you could only take six items onto a plane, what would they be? To be completely honest, apart from my iPad and Kindle, everything tends to be supplied in-flight these days. On long haul flights I tend to put on my pyjamas and go to sleep, making me a very easy passenger to please.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next for Jacques Azagury?

One of the secrets of Azagury's success is that since we don't stage fashion shows, we are not pressured to produce outlandish and un-wearable clothes to please the press.

We are in the process of adding a new men's perfume to the existing Azagury signature women's perfume. This will be launched very soon. We are also looking to talk to various manufacturers regarding mergers and tie-ins to expand Azagury accessories, including handbags, sunglasses and homewares. www.jacquesazagury.com August/September 2016 The Cultured Traveller 125

Alitalia www.alitalia.com

Holbox Kiteboarding School www.holboxkiteboarding.com

ANA www.ana-sw.com/jets/ Ashford Castle www.ashfordcastle.com

Hôtel des Galleries www.hoteldesgaleries.be

Hotel Fasano Las Piedras www.laspiedrasfasano.com

Bar Italien www.mamounia.com

Hotel Las Nubes www.lasnubesdeholbox.com

Ben Youssef Madrasa www.medersa-ben-youssef.com/en/

Hotel Mawimbi www.hotelholboxisland.com

Bo-Zin www.bo-zin.com Book of Kells www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells

J Jacques Azagury www.jacquesazagury.com

Brown Thomas www.brownthomas.com

Jemaa el-Fna www.morocco.com/attractions/djemaa-el-fna

John Jameson’s www.jamesonwhiskey.com

Casa las Tortugas

www.holboxcasalastortugas.com Casa Sandra www.casasandra.com Chapter One www.chapteronerestaurant.com Cobalt www.cobalt.aero

Kasbah Bab Ourika www.kasbahbabourika.com Kasbah Tamadot www.kasbahtamadot.virgin.com Kilkenny Shop www.kilkennyshop.com Kilmainham Gaol www.kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie

King George www.kinggeorgeathens.com

Dar Yacout www.yacout.ma

Kinsterna Hotel & Spa www.kinsternahotel.gr

Dublin Writers Museum www.writersmuseum.com

Krystle Nightclub www.krystledublin.com

El Fenn www.el-fenn.com

L'Ecrivain www.lecrivain.com

L’horizon Resort and Spa www.lhorizonpalmsprings.com

Farrier & Draper www.farrieranddraper.ie Fauna www.faunahotel.cl

La Grande Table Marocaine www.royalmansour.com/en/dining/la-grande-tablemarocaine

Le Foundouk www.foundouk.com

George's Street Arcade

Le Jardin des Douars www.jardindesdouars.com

www.georgesstreetarcade.ie

Le Pavillon de la Piscine www.mamounia.com

Guinness Storehouse www.guinness-storehouse.com

Lotus Club www.lotusclubMarrakesh.com

116 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

33 Majorelle www.33ruemajorelle.com

Racv Torquay Resort www.racv.com.au/wps/wcm/connect/resorts/racv+re sorts/racv-torquay-resort

Majorelle Garden & Islamic Art Museum of Marrakesh www.jardinmajorelle.com Marker Hotel in Grand Canal Dock www.themarkerhoteldublin.com Menara Gardens

Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum Experience www.irishrocknrollmuseum.com Royal Mansour www.royalmansour.com/

www.jardin-menara.com

Morrison Hotel www.morrisonhotel.ie

Saadian Tombs www.morocco.com/attractions/saadian-tombs/

Mövenpick Resort Petra www.movenpick.com/Petra

N National Museum www.museum.ie/archaeology New 7 Wonders www.new7wonders.com Nhow Rotterdam www.nhow-rotterdam.com

Shangri-La Hotel www.shangri-la.com/london Sky Bab www.facebook.com/skybabMarrakesh/ Space Ibiza www.spaceibiza.com

T The Academy Dublin www.theacademydublin.com

The Bank on College Green www.bankoncollegegreen.com

Oman Airports www.omanairports.co.om

The Brazen Head www.brazenhead.com

Oneworld to www.oneworld.com

The Church Bar and Restaurant

Ouarzazate www.muchmorocco.com/locations/ouarzazate

www.thechurch.ie

The Puli Hotel and Spa www.thepuli.com

Peruke & Perwig www.peruke.ie

Petra www.visitpetra.jo

United Airlines www.united.com/polaris

Phum Baitang

www.phumbaitang.com Ponta Dos Ganchos www.pontadosganchos.com

Q Quinto La Huella www.quintolahuella.com

The Clarence Hotel www.theclarence.ie

Villa de l’Ô www.villadelo.com Villa Maroc www.villa-maroc.com

W Whitefriar Street Church www.whitefriarstreetchurch.ie