The Cultured Traveller - Second Anniversary Edition, October-November 2016 Issue 13

SECOND ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ISSUE 13 OCT-NOV 2016

MANHATTAN ST. MORITZ • MICHEL ROUX JR • SHELTER ISLAND ANTONIO BERARDI • GALLE FORT • NADIM KARAM • BURJ AL ARAB

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SECOND ANNIVERSARY EDITION

HIGHLIGHTS 39

I'LL TAKE MANHATTAN

Nicholas Chrisostomou journeys back to New York City’s Manhattan island after a decade-long absence, and discovers a reborn metropolis bursting with new energy, architecture and creativity, its crowning glory Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s jaw-dropping World Trade Center Transportation Hub, the Oculus.

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LEBANON’S DE FACTO ARTIST LAUREATE

Since the early 1990s, Nadim Karam has left his mark on the metropolitan visages of Beirut and beyond. Lebanon’s de facto artist laureate, Karam’s worldwide urban art installations underscore their visceral sensibilities through architecture that tells a story of the space it occupies. The Cultured Traveller’s Ashlee Starratt explores themes of urban renewal and creative rebellion with the artist himself.

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LA PETITE BEIRUT

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits upscale Nicoise-inspired French restaurant, La Petite Maison Beirut, in its new city centre location in the cosmopolitan Lebanese capital, and discovers a unique mélange of food and art.

SECOND ANNIVERSARY EDITION OCT/NOV 2016

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ANTONIO BERARDI

Since his Central Saint Martin’s graduate collection in 1994, Antonio Berardi has fused his Sicilian and British background to establish a beautiful aesthetic - simple, elegant, undercut with femme-fatale coolness – as well as a resilient international business. He talks to The Cultured Traveller about his work, favourite new designers, his old friend, John Galliano, and Bruno, his dog.

114

MASTER CHEF MICHEL

The Cultured Traveller interviews Michelin-starred Michel Roux Jr. about Le Gavroche turning 50, the London restaurant scene, marathon running and cooking at home.

36

ROYAL SUITE WEEKEND

Win a weekend stay in Park Hyatt Dubai's spectacular 220m2 Royal Suite – the hotel’s biggest - boasting separate, sprawling living, dining and sleeping areas, huge private balconies offering panoramic Dubai Creek and marina views, and a huge master bathroom. This incredible prize includes return airport limo transfers from DXB, personalised butler service, breakfast every morning, and dinner for two at The Thai Kitchen.

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 05

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CONTENTS

86 09 EDITOR’S LETTER

69 10

Our Editor-in-Chief looks back at some of the far-flung places covered in TCT during the past two years, and the high-profile individuals who have talked to us, including interviews with everyone from Sofía Vergara to America's 2016 Top Chef, Jeremy Ford, together with cover stories about Bogotá, Islamabad and Beirut.

10 NEWSFLASH The Cultured Traveller’s rounds-up the must see events, seasonal happenings and festivals taking place around the globe in October and November 2016, including the spectacular balloon fiesta in Albuquerque, Day Of The Dead in Mexico, Krampusnacht in Austria, and Thailand’s slightly disturbing vegetarian festival.

71 14

14 REST YOUR HEAD Hotels featured in our Second Anniversary Edition include grande dame of Hyde Park Corner, The Lanesborough. Shemshak ski resort’s arctic spaceship-like Barin Hotel in

88

06 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

64

Iran. Hip and happening Brown Beach House in vibrant Tel Aviv, and Ritz Paris, fresh from its four-year USD 450 million refit.

69 SUITE ENVY Opulence and luxury are on the menu as the The Cultured Traveller heads to Dubai, where, in this most affluent of cities rests the world’s only seven-star hotel. Ashlee Starratt checks in to a panoramic duplex suite at the most recognisable hotel on the planet, Burj Al Arab.

86 BOARDING PASS The Cultured Traveller team investigates the current strength of the world’s passports in light of Henley & Partners’ 2016 rankings, how far they will take you without a visa, and what it might cost you to legitimately obtain a second passport, which is actually worth having.

88 NO SHOES REQUIRED A quick ferry ride from the New York City elite’s flash Hamptons playground,

126

132

94

Alex Benasuli enjoys the unassuming, quiet sophistication of laid-back vacation haven, Shelter Island, tucked between the north and south forks of Long Island, on America's Eastern Seaboard.

94 SPOTLIGHT Nicholas Chrisostomou embarks upon his maiden detox at the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains in the Swiss alpine playground of St. Moritz. Up where the air is clear, five days of juicing, outdoor activities and spa treatments does as much for the soul as for the body, he soon discovers.

100 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Nicholas Chrisostomou explores the town within the ancient ramparts of 16th century UNESCO world heritage Galle Fort, on the Indian Ocean island of Sri Lanka, just four hours flying time from the Middle East and Asia, yet a world away from the 21st century.

108 TASTE & SIP The world famous Roux family of

114 chefs excels at classic French cooking.

Alex Benasuli visits the London Langham hotel’s flagship restaurant, Roux at the Landau, opened in 2010 and helmed by Michel Roux Jr, to find out whether the cuisine is on par with Le Gavroche.

126 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE The Cultured Traveller interviews the much celebrated, gentle yet charismatic Cuban-born violin maestro and jazz musician, Omar Puente, about growing up in Cuba, studying music in Havana, performing around world and his new album offering, Best Foot Forward.

140 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER Given that the summer is over for most of us, now is the perfect excuse to add one or two stylish layers, and cozy up in the season’s coolest fashion offerings whilst staying warm and remaining stylish. The Cultured Traveller team rounds-up some hot fashion picks to keep you on trend and looking cool in the autumn.

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ANTONIO BERARDI

SHELTER ISLAND

BURJ AL ARAB

EDITOR’S LETTER

GALLE FORT

When I came up with the concept of The Cultured Traveller on a Cyprus beach a little over two years ago - my idea was to provide a concise, topical and easy-to-read publication that would appeal to seasoned and discerning travellers – but wasn't dominated by ads, or swamped with paid advertorial. Up until then I had been contributing to a number of well-known travel magazines and, quite frankly, could no longer bear flicking past dozens of pages of ads before reaching a decent article. So The Cultured Traveller was born. But, with no real publishing experience I had little idea of what I had undertaken when we launched in October 2014, and boy has it been a baptism of fire! I take my hat off to every other editor out OMAR there, especially those at the helm of a monthly. It's a demanding and all-encompassing role.

PUENTE The look of TCT may have changed considerably since the early issues, but the quality of our content and contributions have not, and I'm often amazed by some of the far-flung places we cover and honoured by the high-profile individuals who talk to us. Interviews with everyone from Sofía Vergara to America's 2016 Top Chef, Jeremy Ford, together with cover stories about Bogotá, Islamabad and Beirut, have graced our past twelve issues, and I would like to sincerely thank all the dedicated writers who have contributed their words to The Cultured Traveller.

Our Second Anniversary Edition leads with an extended feature on Manhattan, written by yours truly, about my experience of one of the world's greatest cities, fifteen years after 9/11 (p. 39). Ashlee Starratt spent a weekend at the most recognised hotel on the planet, the lavish Burj Al Arab in Dubai (p. 69), while Alex Benasuli was on the other side of the globe on Shelter Island, on America's Eastern Seaboard, enjoying an utterly different pace of life (p. 88). To mark the occasion of our second birthday, The Cultured Traveller interviewed a variety of individuals at the top of their game in different industries. Celebrated Lebanese artist and architect, Nadim Karam (p. 76); Michelin-starred French chef and TV personality, Michel Roux Jr. (p. 114); darling of the global fashion industry, the immensely talented designer, Antonio Berardi (p. 132); and Cuban-born international violin maestro, Omar Puente (p. 126), all chatted with us about their careers and fascinating lives.

I hope you enjoy reading The Cultured Traveller's Second Anniversary Edition - our biggest to date I might add - as much as I and our team enjoyed travelling the globe to put it together. Less than 20 per cent of TCT is ads, and I hope we can keep it that way as long as possible, so that the remaining 80 per cent can shine with the people, stories and places that our incredible, colourful world has to offer – making our publication 100 per cent a labour of love with each and every new issue. Here’s to the next two years, and to all cultured travellers.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER • SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE @ THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • WEB PORTAL WWW.THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM ISSUU ISSUU.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER/DOCS • ADVERTISING ADS @THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • EDITORIAL WORDS @THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM

ALBUQUERQUE INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA USA

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL

Held at Austin’s Zilker Metropolitan Park in the south of the city – a beautiful recreational area of more than 350 acres at the juncture of Barton Creek

While the origins of this festival are a little fuzzy, the most agreed-upon version of events is that a wandering Chinese opera company fell ill with Malaria while performing in Phuket, and in order to beat the disease, the group adopted a strict vegetarian diet, and prayed intensely to the nine emperor gods for purification of their bodies and minds to cure themselves.

Surprisingly, the group made a miraculous and complete recovery, and they celebrated by originating a festival to honour the gods. Thus Phuket’s annual Vegetarian Festival was born. Attended by thousands, the festival features a number of rituals, including participants piercing their mouths, cheeks, ears, and arms with fish-hooks, knives, razor blades and bamboo poles in dramatic fashion.

Countless offerings of food and drink are also made to the gods in temples throughout the city.

4-14 October 2016 www.phuketvegetarian.com

USA

and the Colorado River – the ACL Music Festival was founded in 2002 and spans two, consecutive three-day weekends annually. Boasting eight stages, where musical groups from a variety of genres including rock, indie, country, folk, electronic and hip hop perform for around half a million fans, in addition to the live performances, the festival showcases local foods, art, crafts and charitable organisations.

The 2016 fifteenth anniversary line-up includes Radiohead, Major Lazor and Flume. Not to be missed is LL Cool J’s official 2016 ACL Fest Late Night Show, at 9pm on Saturday 8th October, featuring DJ Z-Trip with Lizzo and open to all ages.

30 Sep - 2 Oct 2016 + 7-9 Oct 2016 www.aclfestival.com 10 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

THAILAND

Now in its 45th year, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta brings together pilots, crews and hot air and gas ballooning enthusiasts from more than fifty countries and draws a crowd of up to 100,000. With hundreds upon hundreds of brightly coloured balloons taking off, the fiesta is an impressive visual spectacle. Mass ascensions - when many hundreds of balloons lift off into the morning sky - are held on all four weekend mornings and one day mid-week. Mass ascensions begin after a dawn patrol carefully examines the morning's weather conditions. When the

FRIEZE LONDON UK

This much lauded annual art fair, takes over a large part of London’s Regent’s Park every year, and sees more than 160 leading and emerging national and international art dealers and galleries present their finest contemporary works. Frieze also showcases short films, runs workshops, hosts seminars and shows performance-based

installation artworks. The 14th edition of Frieze London sees works shown by renowned galleries from across the world, including Cheim & Read, Gagosian Gallery, and Sadie Coles, together with a host of fascinating lectures and conversations about the art world and the art market with Frieze Talks, curated by Christy Lange (Frieze Magazine) and Gregor Muir of London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts. Not to be missed are some of the fair’s more controversial highlights, including Martin Soto Climent’s sculpture animated by real acrobats.

6-9 October 2016 www.frieze.com

ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR ITALY

dawn patrol gives the green light, balloons from all over the world rise together in a harmonious lift off as dawn breaks over the Sandia Mountains. The sight of 500 balloons in the sky is as breathtaking for first-time visitors as it continues to be for veteran attendees.

1-9 October 2016 www.balloonfiesta.com

CAFÉ BUDAPEST CONTEMPORARY ARTS FESTIVAL HUNGARY

The 2016 incarnation of Hungary’s Café Budapest Contemporary Arts Festival offers more than 110 programs at over 40 venues across the city - including the city’s enormous cultural complex, Művészetek Palotája - with many offering free entry.

Spanning more than two weeks, this year’s festival will focus on Hungarian-born composer, Béla Bartók, whose work and life are a source of inspiration for many local and international artists. The festival program always covers a wide spectrum and showcases a range of musical genres, including classical, pop, jazz and opera, as well as providing a platform for contemporary dance, circus acts, theatrical performances, fine arts, design and photography. Look out for performances and mini concerts happening at public places across the beautiful city of Budapest throughout the festival.

7-23 October 2016 www.cafebudapestfest.hu

From early October to mid November every year, the pretty town of Alba, nestled in the Piedmont region of northern Italy an hour by car from Turin, hosts the annual Alba International White Truffle Fair, to coincide with the late autumn harvest period of the tartufo bianco. Known as the town of a hundred medieval towers, Alba’s old town centre is beautifully preserved, and strolling its streets and piazzas, with a gelato in hand, is one of life's great pleasures. As the truffle fair approaches, international chefs, gastronomy buffs, oenophiles and travelling foodies all descend upon Alba to

NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL USA Born in 2007 as a one-nighter called SWEET, the following year, founder and festival director, Lee Brian Schrager, took the event to the next level, launching what is now the New York City Wine and Food Festival, routinely acclaimed as one of the country’s most successful food festivals. For four days each

autumn/fall, culinary giants, celebrity chefs, mixologists, vintners and foodies from around the globe, unite to eat, drink and end world hunger, via a series of tastings, seminars, workshops, dinners and parties, with 100% of the proceeds – upwards of USD 1 million – going to hunger relief organisation Food Bank For New York City and Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign.

Now in its ninth year, NYCWFF offers a diverse range of dishes and culinary experiences, across a broad range of price points across New York City.

13-16 October 2016 www.nycwff.org

sample the decadent, aromatic and wildly exclusive white truffle. Here the little unattractive mushrooms - sniffed out by trained dogs and pigs - are cleaned, meticulously preserved and shaved sparingly over pasta, risotto, grilled vegetables and just about everything else.

8 October - 27 November 2016 www.fieradeltartufo.org

MASSKARA

PHILIPPINES

Known as the ‘City of Smiles’, Bacolod’s world-famous fun-filled MassKara festival, now on its 37th year, is a popular celebration that traces its roots to the early 1980s when it was introduced as a way to boost morale after poor sugarcane sales and a tragedy that took the lives of 1,000 people. Since then, this vibrant and brightly-coloured festival has become a much revered annual happening.

Thousands of masked dancers perform in the streets, and spectators are treated to local foods, beverages, flowers and crafts. The main few days of MassKara consist of a large parade, dancing contests, sports events, pageants and street parties. The name of the festival is derived from the words ‘mass’ for many, and ‘kara’, a local word that translates to ‘face’, and what makes MassKara so much fun is the genuine warmth of the locals.

14-18 October 2016 www.facebook.com/kbdfi

FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR GERMANY

With more than 275,000 visitors attending last year, the Frankfurt Book Fair, now in it’s 67th year, has firmly established itself as one of the most important events in the global literary calendar. Thousands of publishers, authors, retailers, illustrators, librarians, self-publishers and multimedia suppliers from around the globe, converge annually on the German powerhouse city to exchange information, launch books and negotiate the sale of international publishing rights.

New for 2016 is THE ARTS+ (www.theartsplus.com), a hub for business in the cultural and creative industries, and a veritable fair of its own within Frankfurt Book Fair. Expect top-notch speakers, technology innovations, best practice cases, creative presentations and networking events at THE ARTS+, plus a salon for exclusive talks and a lab for interactive performances.

19-23 October 2016 www.buchmesse.de

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA IRELAND

Since the first Festival of Music and the Arts took place in October 1951, Wexford Festival Opera has grown into one of the world’s leading opera festivals. For 65 years the festival has breathed new life into forgotten or neglected operatic masterpieces, establishing a reputation for high-quality productions, that every year bring thousands of opera lovers flocking from all over the world to the beautiful harbour town of Wexford, in the southeastern corner of the island. All operas are performed at The National Opera House, Ireland’s first custom-built opera house, and this year’s festival includes performances of William Walton’s The Bear and

Samuel Barber’s Vanessa, as well as the more well-known Il Campanello and Maria de Rudenz, both by Donizetti.

26 October - 6 November 2016 www.wexfordopera.com 12 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

DIWALI INDIA Commonly referred to as The Festival Of Lights, India’s biggest celebration, Diwali, is full of reverence and good cheer.

Diwali is an ancient Hindu festival

celebrating the victory of light over darkness, hope over despair, and the return of the Sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind Ji, who was freed from imprisonment and also managed to release 52 political prisoners at the same time from Gwalior fort by Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1619. An important tradition in India, participants clean their homes before the festival and celebrate with friends and family by sharing food and exchanging gifts. Houses are festooned with electric lights, and candles, lamps, torches and fireworks are lit at night, providing a spectacular display of light, that symbolises the awareness of inner light and the triumph of good over evil.

30 Oct - 3 Nov 2016

SALON DU CHOCOLAT

FRANCE

Renowned around the globe as the world's largest event dedicated to chocolate innovations and cocoa expressions, Salon Du Chocolat is a unique happening revered by chocolate aficionados the world over. Now in it’s 22nd year, the annual chocfest is held in the heart of Paris, at the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Center with plenty of space to host international chocolatiers. Visitors have a unique opportunity to discover and taste chocolates that are not found anywhere else, courtesy of more than 500 chocolatiers, pastry makers and confectioners from five continents, not to mention some of the world’s greatest pastry chefs and cocoa

experts, plus The International Cocoa Awards, the only event in the world celebrating the work of planters and the richness of expression of cocoa.

28 October - 1 November 2016 www.salonduchocolat.fr

DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

KRAMPUSNACHT

At the beginning of every November, in the city of Oaxaca approximately 280 miles southeast of Mexico City, 3,000

The sleepy lakeside settlement of Pushkar, in the Ajmer region of the north Indian state of Rajasthan, comes to life every year for a unique and incredibly colourful camel beauty pageant. Close to 50,000 are coiffured, shaved, paraded, raced and entered into various beauty contests. With silver bells and bangles dangling around their hoofs, they are strutted past the golden sand dunes infront of an overly excited crowd. Aside from the thousands of camels traded during the fair, other livestock are bought and sold, as well as textiles, art, saddles, jewellery and finery for camels. The fair is also known far and wide for the huge variety of body tattoos on show.

The religious festival of Kartik Purnima falls on the last day, and sees thousands of devotees bathe in Pushkar Lake.

8-15 November 2016 www.pushkar-camel-fair.com

Krampus is a historic cruel demon of debatable historic origin who haunts the Central European mountainous region that

MEXICO

year-old Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is celebrated with a three-day festival honoring the dead and welcoming their souls home as a blessing. Basically, Mexican families throw a feast and invite the dead over for dinner, and celebrate instead of mourn. October 31st is a day of preparation, when the women clean the house and prepare food, while the guys build clay altars in the home. November 1st is dedicated to children and infants - Día de los Angelitios (Day of the Little Angels).

And the main event on 2nd November - Día de los Muertos - is for the adults, with bigger and more elaborate decorated skulls or Calaveras, more complex rituals, spicier foods and lots of added tequila.

1-2 November 2016

INDIA

STRAWBERRY FIELDS AUSTRALIA

Now in its eighth year, Strawberry Fields will return to its Murray River site in Tocumwal - the New South Wales town on the Victorian border - with a specially extended four-day event, celebrating the finest electronica of the moment, complete with art installations, market stalls and workshops. Patrons are invited to rock-up on the Thursday to secure the best camping sites, and to celebrate the festival will host a live reggae party that night. Topping the massive line-up for the 2016 instalment of this boutique electronic music festival, is one of Detroit’s most prolific house selectors, Moodymann, who’ll be giving an exclusive Victorian performance. There’ll also be London-based Dan Shake, the exclusive Aussie debut of HVOB live, melodic house maestro Atish, plus locals including Koi Child , Charles Murdoch, REMI and oodles more.

17-20 Nov 2016 www.strawberry-fields.com.au

AUSTRIA

birthed the creature, particularly during the Krampusnacht festival.

Nowhere is this devil rampaging more, than the Austrian town of Klagenfurt, where the biggest and most rowdy Krampusnacht unfolds every year, filled with demons literally everywhere. The highlight of Krampusnacht is essentially an alcohol-fueled Krampuslauf race, which winds through the pedestrian-friendly city center of Klagenfurt, with a thousand alpine-jogging contestants dressed as scary, child-kidnapping, horned and furry devils. So terrifyingly demonic are the costumes, that Austrian psychologists and schools are actually considering banning the creature because it's so scary to children!

5 November 2016 (date tbc)

THE LANESBOROUGH Few hotels in London command such a regal position as grande dame of Hyde Park Corner, The Lanesborough, located in the heart of the nation's capital on the edge of Knightsbridge and Belgravia. Opposite are Hyde Park and Apsley House (the home of the Duke of Wellington), and just a short walk from the hotel are Buckingham Palace, Harrods, Harvey Nichols and the designer boutiques of Sloane Street.

Housed in one of London’s most revered Regency landmarks - built in 1827 and used as a hospital until the 1970s after which it lay empty for twenty years - The Lanesborough 14

re-opened in August 2015 after a 19-month renovation costing tens of millions, masterminded by the late, great interior designer, Alberto Pinto. Under the careful management of Oetker Collection (which also owns Le Bristol in Paris and Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d'Antibes, amongst other premium properties), the entire building was pretty much gutted and refilled with crystal chandeliers, parquet floors, antiques, trompe-l'oeil, original 18th century artworks (including three by Reynolds), miles of marble and gleaming gold leaf, rendering the hotel even more unapologetically OTT than before. This is

Rest Your Head

London, Shemshak, Lecce, San Francisco, Paço De Sousa, Tel Aviv, Ajman, Palma De Mallorca, San Cristobal De Las Casas, Anguilla, Kaplankaya, Paris

LONDON not a hotel for minimalists, modernists, purveyors of all things sleek, shiny, pared-down or monochrome. On the contrary, The Lanesborough is an uncompromising riot of beautifully executed Regency splendour and lavish decadence.

The meticulous attention to detail and palace-like opulence extends to the 93 rooms and suites, into which the latest communication technologies and entertainment systems have been seamlessly woven. Furnishings, fabrics, mirrors, carpets, wall coverings and beds were all sourced from the ďŹ nest British suppliers, to create rooms and suites of extraordinary

quality, variety and individuality. And despite the hotel's position on the crossroads of two very busy roads, all rooms are utterly soundproof thanks to triple-glazed windows. Junior suites are quite large by London standards, boasting an entrance hall, full sized sitting room, generous bedroom and master bathroom lined with hand cut Italian marble. The Royal Suite, at GBP 26,000 per night, is one of London's largest and most expensive, and unsurprisingly oft the lodgings of visiting pop stars, royalty and sheiks.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.lanesborough.com

SHEMSHAK

BARIN HOTEL As relations between the West and Iran begin to thaw, the country is in the beginning of a tourism boom. While Tehran, Isfahan and Shiraz may be visitors’ preferred destinations, Iran offers incredible natural scenery and a burgeoning boutique hotel industry. Only an hour outside Tehran, in the picturesque Alborz Mountains, there are ski resorts on par with those in Europe and the States. Amongst them, Shemshak ski resort is one of the best, and lying at a pretty high 2,500 meters it caters to more advanced skiers as well as beginners.

Connoisseurs love the dry and plentiful powder snow conditions, matched with crystal clear blues skies.

Situated in the very heart of the mountains, approximately one kilometre from the centre of Shemshak, you will find Barin Hotel, rising out of the majestic landscape like a giant modern igloo – all white, clean and flowing lines – skillfully conceptualised to integrate into its natural surroundings covered in fresh snow.

Designed by RYRA Studio to reflect the cosmopolitan vibe of the city and the breathtaking beauty of its setting, Barin Hotel’s striking igloo-like theme continues through into the design of its unusual yet attractive interiors. Domed ceilings, portal-like windows and minimalist furnishings all contribute to create a somewhat out-of-this-world experience, that looks and feels like an arctic spaceship. Public spaces continue the theme of curved lines and eccentric patterning, with the colour white dominating throughout.

Barin Hotel’s ten storeys incorporate 67 rooms and suites, including a 270m2 penthouse. Skiers and snowboarders wanting to combine adventure and cutting edge design when planning their next skiing holiday need look no further.

ALEX BENASULI www.iranskitours.ir

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 17

LECCE

BROWN BEACH HOUSE In recent years Tel Aviv has warmly embraced the designer, boutique hotel trend, and there are now many stylish offerings in the city, including The Norman, The Rothschild and The Montefiore to name but a few. One of the first was Brown TLV, which opened in trendy Neve Tzedek in 2010 and has since become a much loved hospitality landmark. Until recently, Tel Aviv–bound beach lovers and partygoers had two accommodation location options – to either crash at a somewhat boring chain hotel along the city's coastline and be close to the sea, or forego a beachfront vacation to stay at a funky, upscale property inland. Brown TLV's owners - the ambitious Leon Avigad and Nitzan Perry - changed all that by opening a sister hotel by the sea, nestled amongst some of Tel Aviv’s most anticipated waterfront architectural projects.

Brown Beach House is the first boutique hotel close to Tel Aviv's seafront, set back one street from the sea about a minute from the city's sun-bronzed sands. With a moody black entrance and a giant pink neon flamingo high above the door, at first glance Brown Beach House looks more like a nightclub than a hotel, and nothing like the typical uninspiring hospitality chain properties that line the promenade. The glamour and fun continue inside, with the interiors of the hotel's 40 rooms a striking Ibiza-esque blend of black, white and yellow retro resort chic and city cool, featuring monochrome zig-zag carpets, canary yellow chesterfields, swathes of decadent Carrera marble, oversized black-framed four posters and sharp brass detailing. Bedside lights in the shape of golden pineapples are indicative of the playful touches dotted throughout, whilst cane and vintage furniture, wall-to-wall bookshelves and giant palms in planters lend a relaxed urban glam feel to the lobby and public spaces downstairs.

Staying at Brown Beach House means that the party comes to you, since the hotel's vivacious Flamingo Bar is a neighbourhood hotspot for live music, pop-up events and visual art parties attended by a good-looking crowd who throwback herb-infused cocktails carefully crafted by handsome mixologists. As if that wasn't enough, the hotel is next door to The Imperial, which was recently voted the best cocktail bar in the Middle East. Visitors to Israel's vibrant and cosmopolitan metropolis most certainly now have suitably high end design-conscious digs, one block from the Mediterranean, to live it up then rest their sun kissed party heads.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.brownhotels.com/beach 18

LA FIERMONTINA History whispers through every window at this 17th century villa, cloistered within the handsome walled Baroque city of Lecce, in Italy’s beautiful Puglia region, in the remote heel of the country's boot. Having stumbled upon the house and adjoining land for sale in 2000 while visiting the city, the new owner, Giacomo Fiermonte, a native of France, set upon an extensive five-year restoration and construction programme, to incorporate a large portion of the original residence into the hotel’s new footprint, whilst honouring the site’s historic roots.

French designers, Charles-Philippe and Christophe, filled the interiors of the 16 guest rooms with classic pietra di Trani stone floors, modern Italian furniture, vintage items by Charlotte Perriand, and artworks from the owner’s collection including pieces by Le Corbusier. Custom textiles and expertly crafted Italian furniture complete the happy marriage of antique and contemporary in each chic bedroom, many of which have star-pinnacle ceilings, private balconies and open fireplaces.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner can either be taken in the dining room of within the gardens, but dining al fresco, amidst the hotel’s olive groves and orange trees, is by far the best way to enjoy the hotel’s menu of homemade dishes which showcase traditional Pugliese fare, enriched by the splendour of fresh, locally-farmed ingredients.

Guests can embark on a wealth of unique, tailored experiences during their stay at La Fiermontina, that include hiking and walking tours of the region’s stunning countryside and coastal trails, wine and olive oil tasting experiences, a picnic in bohemian Salento (the southern tip of Italy's Puglia region), and even a meditative journey that explores the area’s cultural dance traditions. To experience Italy in all her authenticity doesn’t come in a more delightfully immersive package than La Fiermontina. Best of all, it’s just a 30-minute drive to the blissful beaches along the Adriatic Sea. ASHLEE STARRATT www.lafiermontina.com

TEL AVIV

SAN FRANCISCO

20

PALACE HOTEL Located on New Montgomery Street just off Market, just a few blocks from Union Square and about the same to the Financial District, when the Palace Hotel first opened its majestic doors in 1875, having cost USD 5million to build, it was the epitome of grandeur in a bustling new city, San Francisco’s first luxury hotel and the largest in the world at the time, but it drove its founders to financial catastrophe. The devastating earthquake of 1906 threw guests from their beds and caused fires which tore through the hotel and completely gutted the building. Following a rebuild which cost USD10 million, the Palace's 553 guest rooms including 34 suites welcomed guests again, until a further renovation in 1989 costing a reputed USD170 million.

Following a recent nine-month top-to-bottom refresh of its guest rooms, pool, fitness center, lobby and Garden Court, courtesy of California-based interior designer Beatrice Girelli of firm Indidesign, the Palace joined Starwood's Luxury Collection of unique properties around the world and has reclaimed its title as San Francisco's premiere hotel, just in time for the city's second golden age.

The dramatic renovated, glass-domed Garden Court - all dazzling Austrian crystal chandeliers, columns of Italian marble and prime real estate for people-watching - now features modern furnishings, bright upholstery and patterned rugs, with a portion of the vast space now serving as a lounge, for guests to relax and sip a cocktail in a slightly more informal environment than the adjacent dining area. Overall the Garden Court is truly breathtaking in its architectural beauty. Meanwhile refreshed bedrooms and suites of clean-lined furnishings and a soft, serene palette of cream and dove grey, form the perfect canvas for bursts of orange, lively rugs and shimmering drapes, whilst leather headboards, dark wood accents, metallic surfaces and marble baths lend a contemporary, warm and more residential feel to guest accommodations.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.sfpalace.com

PAÇO DE SOUSA

QUINTA DO LOBO BRANCO On the edge of the lush and green rolling hills of northern Portugal’s Douro Valley, about thirty minutes from Porto, lies Quinta Do Lobo Branco, open since 2014. The Douro Valley is famous for its vineyards and farms, dotting an extraordinary landscape of ancient woodland, river canyons and open countryside. It is from this area of outstanding natural beauty that Quinta do Lobo Branco’s soul is drawn. Spirituality is a quintessential element of the property’s offering, which operates akin to a back-to-nature wellness retreat. In its own words, Quinta do Lobo Branco is about, “living in communion with nature, freedom and in celebration, sharing with others the love for all that exists”. More than a wellness retreat just based on healthy eating and treatments, the owners are keen to offer an experience that allows for creating the space conducive for cultivating freedom and personal transformation. The aim is to make each guest experience as bespoke as possible. Upon arrival, a private consultation is arranged at which objectives are discussed and a suggested stay agenda is agreed. There is daily yoga and mediation. Nature walks are highly recommended, and a number of onsite therapists offer alternative body and mind treatments. Trance dance is quite popular. The cuisine is vegetarian and can be offered in vegan and liquid forms if needed.

Most of the produce is locally sourced, some from the retreat’s grounds.

Quinta do Lobo Branco literally translates as “Farm of the White Wolf”. While the wolf reference remains something of a mystery, the white part certainly is not. Architecturally and design wise, the property is notable for the series of white barn-like structures that make up the common areas and guest cottages. The goal was to build structures that embodied openness, nature, peace and reflection. The ground floor of each structure is clad in a continuous glass band, so as to be fully visually exposed to the undulating topography and surrounding nature. Cleverly connected pathways allow for walking meditations when moving from one area of the property to another, and in addition to the dining room, treatment rooms, yoga salon and guest cottages, residents can take a dip in the retreat’s saltwater pool. Quinta do Lobo Branco truly offers a deeply authentic holistic experience amidst a stunning setting and forward thinking design aesthetic.

ALEX BENASULI www.quintadolobobranco.pt October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 23

AJMAN

THE OBEROI BEACH RESORT, AL ZORAH An eco-resort in the desert climes of Arabia? Stranger things have happened. And with the strength of the Oberoi brand behind it, this newest hospitality retreat, located in the coastal marshlands of one of the UAE’s tiniest emirates and slated to open in the first quarter of 2017, looks set to pack nature’s punch. A 30-minute drive from Dubai International Airport, the 100-hectare property boasts 113 villas and suites with private balconies and pools, saltwater lagoons, mangroves for kayaking and a luxe spa, the architecture of which harkens back to ancient Madīnah in its traditional hammam facilities.

Home to 60 species of birds, the resort promises a haven for would-be ornithologists, while those who like their birdies closer to the ground can take a swing on the greens at the resort’s championship golf course.

All rooms and suites are designed to minimize the hotel’s carbon footprint, making use of natural light for illumination and temperature-controls that reduce energy loss. Guests can make use of the hotel’s unique Oberoi E’nhance iPad interface to oversee everything from in-room dining to entertainment bookings, with the hotel’s signature restaurant seemingly floating over a glass island, serving an array of international cuisine and gastronomic delights, against a backdrop of coral reefs and fish nurseries that will have you longing to get back to nature.

ASHLEE STARRATT www.oberoihotels.com 24

PALMA DE MALLORCA

SANT FRANCESC HOTEL SINGULAR Until not so long ago, visitors to Mallorca had to choose between staying in the middle of the historic city center, or basing themselves in a five-star hotel on the periphery to enjoy the facilities of a deluxe resort. But as aristocratic Spanish families moved out of the center - relocating to their grand country estates and downsizing their city pads - savvy hoteliers moved in, refurbishing, restoring and instilling new life into grand properties, giving many more accommodation options to visitors who enjoy the historic bones and year-round buzz of Palma. Set in a 16th-century palace, Palacio Ca Sa Galesa which opened in 1993 was one of the first, with just a dozen rooms. Since then it has been joined by a couple of dozen more privately owned and individually designed bijou hotels. One of the newest is Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, a rather smart 42-bedroom hotel, positioned on a small square dominated by the Basílica de Sant Francesc in the centre of Palma, with an abundance of shops, cafés and restaurants nearby, and the city's magnificent sea-facing Cathedral just five minutes walk away.

Formerly the home of a showy Mallorquin noble family until the established Barcelona Soldevila hotelier family bought it, many original features of the 1880 building were skillfully preserved in the conversion process, including the gorgeous main staircase. The Baroque façade was lovingly restored, the cobbled inner courtyard returned to its former glory, and the lobby once an entrance for horse-drawn carriages - is now a soaring space with pale Santanyí stone pillars and beautifully preserved geometric moldings. The resulting hotel is packed with historic features coupled with modern day amenities, with pale natural hues gently contrasting with the charcoal and chocolate tones, giving the interior a contemporary, urban feel. The hotel's 42 rooms and suites - all crisp lines and cool shades of gray - range from 25 to 60m2, are all different, and most have oversized walk-in showers or deep freestanding tubs.

Up on the roof, a small pool is surrounded by artfully landscaped terraces, and sun worshippers are treated to dramatic vistas of the spectacular Cathedral to one side and the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range to the other, which forms the northern backbone of the Spanish island. Whilst the plentiful attractions and eateries of Palma are literally on your doorstep when staying at Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, not to be missed is dinner at Quadrat, the hotel's excellent onsite restaurant set in the former stables, which serves modern Mediterranean cuisine, with dishes such as turbot with fennel cream featuring on the interesting menu.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.hotelsantfrancesc.com October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 27

HOTEL B¨ B¨O Set in a stunningly lush high plateau, surrounded by mountains, San Cristobal de las Casas is the bohemian and rather charming colonial main city of the southeastern Mexican frontier province of Chiapas. To this day the region remains largely unspoiled, full of cobble stone streets, local markets and plenty of centuries-old churches and houses. The old town has a festive and cosmopolitan atmosphere, filled with bars, restaurants, art galleries and boutiques selling local crafts. Indigenous villages and beautiful countryside, where the local way of life reigns supreme, surround the city. Many tourists visit San Cristobal as a jumping off point to the impressive Mayan ruins of Palenque which date back over 2,000 years. The vibrancy, colour and magical energy of the entire region are all reflected in San Cristobal.

Located in the centre of San Cristobal and a veritable oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of local life, Hotel b¨o is a welcome addition to an area known more as a destination for backpackers and aid workers than discerning international travellers.

Offering 22 stylish rooms and suites some with private patio gardens, roof terraces and fireplaces - clean lines and unfussy design are enhanced by colourful interior accents, local artisan-crafted furnishings and carefully considered landscaping. The result is a cozy and comfortable environment that reflects nature, the spirit world of the pre-conquistador era as well as the area’s historic past. At Hotel b¨o, tradition and modernity have been successfully blended seamlessly, its interior and exterior design effectively capturing the best of what the region has to offer. LUM, the hotel’s onsite restaurant and bar, is a social hub that serves local and fusion dishes made using local ingredients. There is also a small gym and a library. Attention intrepid travellers: this is a special hotel in a special place that is just coming into tourists’ radar!

ALEX BENASULI www.hotelbo.mx 28

SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

ANGUILLA

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ZEMI BEACH HOUSE RESORT & SPA Owned and developed by New York's Goldstein Family Partnership and located on Shoal Bay East, one of Anguilla’s best beaches, Zemi Beach House was the first resort to open in East End, known for its white powdery sands, exclusive private villas and beach bars, and the first new-build resort to open on the island in more than half a decade. Developed as a mix of 50 hotel rooms and roughly the same number of luxe residences, to meet the high demand by celebrities and the global jet-set community wishing to hide from the spotlight and escape the routine of everyday life in relatively unpretentious Anguilla, this one-of-a-kind resort was designed by internationally renowned Caribbean architect, Lane Pettigrew, to mirror the transcendent nature of the island, with the opportunity for guests to renew, reflect and evolve through meaningful encounters at Zemi Beach House.

The resort's architecture was inspired by Anguilla’s natural environment, blending modern, clean lines with classic Caribbean detailing. Guest rooms all feature private balconies or terraces with views of the surrounding crystalline waters. The interiors of the public spaces were created by Miami-based interior designer Cuba Fernandez. A dramatic oceanfront pool is glass panelled on the side which faces the beach. At the epicentre of the resort is Zemi Thai House Spa, the property's serene crown jewel, housed within an authentic 300 year-old Thai house that was transported to Anguilla in the 1980s, and lovingly restored to offer an intense wellness experience via 15,000ft2 of indoor and outdoor space, including the island’s first co-ed ‘House of Wellbeing’ and Anguilla’s only hammam with a heated göbek taşı at its core, plus a sun deck for mud and salt body treatments, meditation garden, outdoor showers and a vitality pool. Central to the spa is the Taíno Bathing Ritual, which offers guests the opportunity to journey through different temperature changes using ancient plants and herbs used for hundreds of years by Anguilla’s native Taíno Indians.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.zemibeach.com

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KAPLANKAYA

CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT AT KAPLANKAYA Renowned American wellness brand, Canyon Ranch, has unveiled its first international property, off south western Turkey’s Aegean coastline, with a 141-room property that brings a new level of holistic luxury to the Turkish Riviera.

Situated on a peninsular outcrop, some 50 miles up the coast from the summer resort mecca of Bodrum, the Canyon Ranch Wellness Resort at Kaplankaya (to give the retreat its full name!) boasts a 107,500ft2 wellness centre and spa that offers integrated mind and body treatments tailored towards the discerning guest. Here, Eastern medicine is balanced with an appreciation for fitness, while a creative menu that highlights the best a Mediterranean diet has to offer, promises an all-round healthy and healing experience in the lap of luxury.

The region’s rich history is only a couple hours’ drive away, and, with the hotel operating year-round, day-trips and sightseeing excursions to landmarks such as the ancient city of Ephesus can be easily organised.

Guests can choose at their leisure from Canyon Ranch’s unique Focused Stay packages, tailored toward healthful goals such as smoking cessation, weight loss, or pre or post-operative retreats. With unparalleled facilities and the beauty of its natural surroundings – there are three bays, each with its own private beach – this secluded sanctuary will easily recharge and re-nourish the souls of even the most depleted and weary of travellers.

ASHLEE STARRATT www.canyonranch.com October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 33

THE RITZ, PARIS The City of Lights has long been one of Europe’s most quintessential hubs of culture and bastions of resilience, with its most iconic landmarks weathering the storms of revolution across the centuries – though sometimes, not without a bit of a face-lift. As one of its most renowned hotels re-opens its doors after a four-year, USD 450 million renovation, The Cultured Traveller asks how turn-of-the-century luxury can stand the test of time after 118 years at The Ritz, Paris.

Situated in Paris’ historic First Arrondissement, at the Place Vendôme, site of Louis XIV’s coterie of 17th century 34

palaces, the recently re-opened Ritz espouses all the old-world glamour of the hotel’s glory days, when Europe’s intelligentsia and aristocracy would frequent its gilded environs. Now, its Prestige Suites ensconced in marble and gold, the property still evokes the weight of history with cleverly hidden modern touches…. TV’s are embedded in antique mirrors, golden swan-neck faucets have been installed in the en-suites, and maid and butler bells dangle on velveteen ropes. Ritz Paris’s owner, Mohammed Al Fayed and his team, have successfully and seamlessly incorporated les nouveaux elements while maintaining the timeless

PARIS integrity of the hotel’s opulence.

Make your way down the Gallery of the Ritz Paris - the architectural marvel connecting the Place Vendôme with the Rue Cambon - with its collection of exquisite boutiques and 95 showcases of fashion and art. Sip your way through a gin martini or gimlet at the hotel’s Bar Hemingway – a gentleman’s lodge in tribute to the hotel’s most famous auteur. Wood-paneled and warm, it’s here where the likes of Cole Porter, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway himself came to drink, muse and set the world to rights.

The Paris Ritz has also newly-partnered with that other

most iconoclastic of French brands, the house of Chanel, in establishing its CHANEL au Ritz Paris spa – a sumptuous retreat that blends five-star wellness with one of the world’s leading names in luxury skincare.

Culinary highlight of the revamped Ritz, is chef Nicolas Sale’s gastronomic journey of L’Espadon, where guests can indulge in four unique experiences of French nouvelle cuisine to please even the most seasoned palate. Next time we find ourselves in Paris, The Cultured Traveller will most certainly be Puttin’ on the Ritz.

ASHLEE STARRATT www.ritzparis.com

WIN A TWO NIGHT STAY IN THE SPECTACU Park Hyatt Dubai's spectacular top floor 220m2 Royal Suite is the hotel's biggest, and boasts separate, sprawling living, dining and sleeping areas, including private balconies offering panoramic Dubai Creek and marina views, and a huge master bathroom complete with oversized tub and walk-in shower, all decorated in an opulent yet elegant style. This incredible two night prize includes return airport limo transfers from DXB, personalised butler service, breakfast every morning, a dinner for two including wine at The Thai Kitchen, cocktails at The Terrace Bar, Wi-Fi and a 2pm lazy checkout on day three.

10 minutes by taxi from the world's busiest airport and an oasis of peace in the pulsating Emirati metropolis, Park Hyatt Dubai is located at the marina and golf course of Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club, and only a few minutes away from City Centre Mall, plus Deira and Bur Dubai’s historic sights and souks. Exotic and alluring, Park Hyatt Dubai successfully combines Moroccan, Mediterranean and Arabian influences in an enchanting setting that instills calmness in hotel guests as soon as they check-in.

The resort's 223 plush rooms, including 34 suites, offer wonderful views of the creek and marina, and are decorated in shades of cream, ivory and pearl, with subtle Arabic detailing including patterned carpets and screens, a nod to Dubai’s history.

Park Hyatt Dubai is home to an inspired array of award-winning restaurants & lounges, including The Thai Kitchen with multiple live cooking stations, buzzy atmosphere and authentic northeastern Thai cuisine. Also worth visiting are the hotel's signature French restaurant Traiteur, Café Arabesque, and The Terrace Bar, which is one of the best places in the city for weekend sundowners.

For vacationing guests, take a ride on Seawings seaplane and get a bird's eye views of the city, have a round of golf on the 18-hole par-71 championship course, be preened and pampered at the hotel's luxury Amara Spa, or relax by the serene 25-metre swimming pool surrounded by shady palms. One of the few hotels in Dubai without an on-site nightclub, makes Park Hyatt Dubai the choice of the city's more discerning and discreet clientele.

WWW.DUBAI.PARK.HYATT.COM • FACEBOOK.COM/PARKHYATTDUBAI • INSTAGRAM.COM/PARKHYATTDUBAI

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 30 November 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of December 2016. This prize can be used until 1st August 2017, subject to availability of the Royal Suite at Park Hyatt Dubai. Rest assured that The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

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PRIZE DRAW

ULAR ROYAL SUITE AT PARK HYATT DUBAI PRIZE WORTH USD 9,00 0

ROYAL SUITE

EVERY NIGHT IS DATE NIGHT AT HILTON LUXOR RESORT & SPA. Escape to the banks of the Nile at the exquisite Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa, 20 minutes from Luxor International Airport.

Located 10 minutes from Luxor town centre, this stylish spa resort is the ideal base to explore the region’s historic attractions like the Temple of Karnak, two minutes away.

Expect outstanding service from attentive multilingual Hilton Team Members.

For room reservations please visit hilton.com or call +20 95 237 4933

P.O. Box 13 | Luxor | Egypt ©2014 Hilton Worldwide

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MANHATTAN NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU JOURNEYS BACK TO NEW YORK CITY’S MANHATTAN ISLAND AFTER A DECADE-LONG ABSENCE AND DISCOVERS A REBORN METROPOLIS BURSTING WITH NEW ENERGY, ARCHITECTURE AND CREATIVITY

W

here in the world can you get into an Uber executive car and be greeted by a exec execut sixty-something granny in an above-the-knee sixt sixty-s white, crocheted crochet Jil Sander dress, hair in rollers, behind the wheel of a shiny, jet black Mercedes E-Class? Yabbering incessantly between my hotel and the restaurant I was headed to for dinner, she entertained to such an extent that, upon reaching our destination, I would have preferred to stay

in the car and listen to her carry on. Only in New York can this sort of eccentric behaviour befall a tourist to the city, and I took this as a very clear indication - on my first night back in the Big Apple after a decade - that the island of Manhattan was well and truly back from the brink, in its inimitable, spirited and wacky tip-top form.

It's difficult to talk about visiting NYC and not mention – or at the very least acknowledge – the unprecedented

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 39

Some fifteen years after 9/11, I'm pleased to report that whilst New York is a city that still very much remembers its fallen, Manhattan appears to have fully recovered its pizzazz, energy and drive QUEENSBORO BRIDGE

tragedy that befell Manhattan island on 11th September 2001, which understandably knocked the entire metropolis and its inhabitants off-kilter, punched a giant emotional and physical crater in the city's very heart, and changed the world as we knew it forever. Quite apart from the thousands of New Yorkers who lost their lives on that dreadful Tuesday morning, workers continued to remove debris and recover bodies from the ruins of the Twin Towers at Lower Manhattan’s former World Trade Center complex for nearly a year, further deepening the city's scars and prolonging the agony. Intense debate then raged over how best to rebuild, as well as how to properly and sensitively memorialise the victims. Political struggles, financial problems and legal squabbles ensued among the various parties involved, leading to repeated and much publicised delays in the 40 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

reconstruction efforts.

It wasn’t until 11th September 2011 that the 9/11 Memorial was dedicated, a decade after the terrorist attacks. Many New Yorkers voiced then that the city didn't begin to start the healing process until the morning when “Reflecting Absence” – the 9/11 Memorial – was dedicated, and the names of the 2,982 people killed inscribed on the surrounding bronze parapets.

I was a regular visitor to New York before 9/11, usually jetting-in two or three times a year, sometimes for only 48 hours of riotous partying or frantic shopping. But after 9/11 I kept my distance. I can't exactly explain why. For one, many of my New Yorker friends moved away in the following months and years, mostly to the West Coast, so I had fewer reasons to visit. Also it took the international travelling public

TIMES SQUARE

at large many years to get over the shock of what had transpired, and unless they had to visit New York on business, many chose to investigate some of America's other great cities instead. After 9/11, San Francisco benefitted from a marked increase in visitor numbers from Europe, the Middle East and Asia Pacific, as did LA, Miami and Boston.

Holiday-makers still very much wanted to visit American cities, but many avoided the Big Apple because they were unsure as of what to expect in the aftermath of catastrophe and such huge loss of life. I was one of these people, and hence travelled to other international cities to get my fix of buzzing city breaks. America lost a massive amount of tourist revenue after 9/11, and the overall economic effect on New York, by so many travellers staying away, was disastrous for numerous businesses that were dependent on overseas

visitors. But some fifteen years after 9/11, I'm pleased to report that whilst New York is a city that still very much remembers its fallen, Manhattan appears to have fully recovered its pizzazz, energy and drive. Some would say that it never lost it, except for the period immediately after 9/11.

But the New Yorkers I knew who lived in the city pre-9/11, and who moved away after that fateful morning, are now moving back in droves, and this has got to be as good a sign as any that Manhattan is back.

If you have the option of catching a flight to the States that includes US pre-clearance in your country of origin – take it – since even those lucky enough to cross the Atlantic in premium cabins are usually obliged to queue for an hour or more to clear immigration at JFK. In my case, despite flying Club World from

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its affiliates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reser ved

EXPERIENCE UNPARALLELED LUXURY AT PARK HYATT DUBAI Located in Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht club on the banks of the magnificient Dubai Creek, Park Hyatt Dubai provides an idyllic setting for a luxury getaway.

Nestled in the heart of city, ten minutes from Dubai International Airport, Gold Souk, Dubai Museum and Burj Khalifa.

To make a reservation contact +971 4 602 1234 or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

Heathrow, I had to stand in a slow-moving single file queue for 70 minutes in the British Airways Terminal at JFK, cooled by little more than a few rotary fans in the height of summer. It wasn’t glamorous or fun, although I should count myself lucky, because on one day last year, BA passengers stood for 138 minutes to clear the same queue.

These kinds of waits are neither an exciting start to a much-anticipated weekend in the city that never sleeps, nor a worthy use of time for those visiting Manhattan for just a few nights.

Recently there has even been concern in the White House at the poor impression visitors to the US get of the country on their arrival, at a time when tourism is playing an increasingly important role in the American economy – especially in New York.

Avoid pre-booking an overpriced hotel limo to fling you along the Long Island Expressway, past the gigantic billboards promising eternal youth and beauty, whisk you across the Queensboro Bridge, and present you with the skyline of one of the greatest cities in the world. A five-star hotel will charge you upwards of USD 150 for the 45-minute drive. A Carmel car costing USD 50 will do the same job just as well, and save you a hundred bucks to spend on a round of Manhattans when you reach your hotel. J.P. Morgan used to sip on a Manhattan at the close of each trading day - it's that kind of drink, and the perfect first sup on checking into your New York lodgings (www.carmellimo.com).

My digs for the weekend were a delightful, homely corner suite, at Robert De Niro’s outstanding 88-room Greenwich Hotel, in which no two rooms are the same. Built to seamlessly blend in with the classic façades of hip TriBeCa, and managed by supremely seasoned hotelier, Philip Truelove, the Greenwich is one very special property in a superb location, just five minutes’

CENTRAL PARK

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 43

walk to the downtown Financial District and World Trade Center Plaza, and a 10-minute cab ride to Midtown. You won’t want to leave after a few nights spent in the warm, family-like environment of the Greenwich. If only there were more hotels like it on the planet (read more here).

Due to the increase of retail globalisation, online shopping and international currency equalisation by most of the big brands, spending in the Big Apple isn't the shopping trolley of bargains it used to be. It’s always been fun to shop in Manhattan and that hasn’t changed, and if anything there are more independent boutiques and designer stores to chose from than ever before (the new Barneys Downtown is not to be missed). But don’t make a special trip to New York to score an Apple computer for instance – you’ll find the price 42 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016 44

differential is 5%-10% max, which is hardly worth the hassle of carrying it back!

Since Giuliani’s administration slowly but methodically strangled New York’s nightlife industry – in the process closing pretty much all of the city’s legendary clubs (gone are Twilo, The Roxy, Tunnel and The Limelight) – the landscape of Manhattan’s nighttime scene has changed considerably. The disappearance of the gritty, mega dance clubs of old, has given rise to a new kind of venue that’s more authentic, personal and friendlier, with some happy to call Brooklyn home. Brooklyn’s Output club – armed with a seriously dirty Funktion One sound system – draws a hip crowd more interested in Calvin Harris than Kanye West, and is notable for the lack of velvet ropes, although you’ll still

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

need to arrive well before midnight to avoid queuing (www.outputclub.com). For those of you looking for a VIP experience, Manhattan’s club scene still reigns supreme at places like Provocateur, with prime positioning in the club-concentrated Meatpacking District. Here you can just as easily groove the night away, as spend the evening gawking at models, actors and trust fund babies if that’s your thang (www.provocateurny.com). For one of Manhattan’s best parties, pitch up at the Sunday night dance party in the grand ballroom of The Jane. Now home to one of the hottest parties in town, this historic hotel used to be a haven for sailors looking for a place to rest their weary heads. Nowadays very little rest takes place at The Jane on the weekends, as it swings open its doors for the party of the week (www.thejanenyc.com).

If I had to count on one hand the new sites in Manhattan which best embody the city’s rejuvenation, they would be the Highline, the new Whitney, the 9/11 Memorial, One World Trade Center, and Calatrava’s spectacular World Trade Center Transport Hub. Retail therapy and eating-out aside, these are all must-see places for any tourist visiting Manhattan, and most of them are within easiest reach of TriBeCa. As New York architecture icons go, the USD 2.6 billion 1,776 feet tall One World Trade Center may not be a historical patch on the Empire State or Chrysler buildings, but the towering, tallest new skyscraper in the Western Hemisphere is a symbol of the re-emergence of NYC as a cloud-skimming, world-dominating megatropolis and, for this reason, its topping-out on Friday 10th May 2013 heralded the renaissance of downtown Manhattan and the city’s rebirth.

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its affiliates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reser ved

EXPERIENCE UNPARALLELED LUXURY AT PARK HYATT DUBAI Located in Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht club on the banks of the magnificient Dubai Creek, Park Hyatt Dubai provides an idyllic setting for a luxury getaway.

Nestled in the heart of city, ten minutes from Dubai International Airport, Gold Souk, Dubai Museum and Burj Khalifa.

To make a reservation contact +971 4 602 1234 or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

Riding to the top in under 60 seconds is an immersive and educational experience, surrounded by floor-to-ceiling LED screens charting the evolution of NYC (www.oneworldobservatory.com).

Michael Arad and Peter Walker's inspired 9/11 memorial, of two large cascading waterfalls and reflecting pools, set within the footprints of the former Twin Towers – surrounded by a grove of 400 oak trees and interspersed with slivers of lawn – are a thing of breathtaking beauty and reflection, and aptly memorialise in perpetuity the loss of almost 3,000 lives that day. A visit to the memorial is a must; its silencing effect a welcome moment of stillness and calm – not to mention thought-provoking – during any visit to NYC (www.911memorial.org/memorial). On the other hand, the 9/11 Museum is a deeply emotional underworld, beneath what was formerly Ground Zero, and one into which only the steely should venture. Recovered firefighters' uniforms, a crushed fire engine, scorched car doors, victims’ last voicemails, charred toys and the hallowed 'last column' to be removed from the Twin Towers site, have all been elevated into art objects. They include two giant tridents, salvaged from the wreckage, which form the centrepiece of the museum pavilion.

Even a gift shop has been added, infuriating many families of the victims by the somewhat crass commercialism.

Whatever your viewpoint about the presence of a gift shop on a virtually sacred site, clearly an untold amount of passion, energy and love has gone into the creation of every exhibit at this fascinating, yet arresting museum. But whilst worth visiting for some – even if only to obtain closure – it was a little bit too much for me (www.911memorial.org/museum).

Founded in 1930 by sculptor and collector Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney,

A visit to the 9/11 memorial is a must; its silencing effect a welcome moment of stillness and calm – not to mention thought-provoking – during any visit to NYC

9/11 MESEUM

9/11 MEMORIAL October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 47

The High Line has become one of the top visitor attractions in New York – more popular even than the Statue of Liberty – and a shining beacon of the reversal in the historical decline of American cities in general

STATUE OF LIBERTY

the Whitney museum got its start when NYC’s Metropolitan Museum of Art turned down her offer of 500 pieces, so she started her own. But as her collection grew, so did the museum, outgrowing several homes. By moving downtown from Madison Avenue, the new Whitney does more than drop anchor at the High Line’s base. This is the Whitney’s fourth home, and the move confirms a definitive shift in the city’s social geography and, more importantly, the affirmation of downtown Manhattan as a cultural hub. The sprawling new USD 422 million Whitney building – which opened on 1st May this year and was designed by Renzo Piano, architect of London’s Shard – does something a NYC museum has never done before…it allows the city to pour in, and positively encourages visitors to venture outside and be part of Manhattan. In this way, the new Whitney is an architectural 42 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016 48

triumph – its grand, column-less, rectangular galleries spilling onto large, stepped terraces, all linked by outdoor stairs, making the museum an extension of the High Line – an outdoor place to see and be seen – and an inherent part of the reborn, inviting, and open Manhattan. Light, bright and airy, it’s inclusive rather than exclusive (www.whitney.org).

Some seven years after the first sections opened, the High Line has become one of the top visitor attractions in New York – more popular even than the Statue of Liberty – and a shining beacon of the reversal in the historical decline of American cities in general. Originally constructed on Manhattan’s far west side because freight trains and pedestrians kept colliding down on 10th Avenue, the former elevated 1930s railroad which used to carry the West Side Line, now serves up the Big Apple on a 1.45-mile-long

Calatrava’s jaw-dropping World Trade Center Transportation Hub, known as the Oculus, is the final piece in Manhattan’s rebirth jigsaw, and epitomises the vitality and new social and physical architecture of the city

WORLD TRADE CENTER TRANSPORTATION HUB

viewing platform 30 feet off the ground. The planting of this urban, linear park is what gives the High Line its real spirit – the wild, textured, and rugged botanicals giving it an utterly unique interior character – artistically driven but naturally rooted. It’s a delightful place to walk, talk, eat, sit, amble, or even sunbathe. Be sure to walk the entire High Line, take your time, and don’t miss the small, squared-off amphitheatre whose stage is a glass viewing wall down to 10th Avenue.

Parts of the walk are intensely voyeuristic, as you pass the windows of high-rise offices, apartments and new fancy condos rising in close proximity. It’s best to start at West 34th Street and walk the High Line to Gansevoort Street by the new Whitney (www.thehighline.org).

Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s jaw-dropping World Trade Center Transportation Hub, known as the Oculus, is the 42

final piece in Manhattan’s rebirth jigsaw, and epitomises the vitality and new social and physical architecture of the city.

Manhattan is now - more than ever - a city of culture and creativity, and nowhere is this more evident than in the USD 4 billion train station which sits right next to One World Trade Center, at the heart of its plaza, the place where New York City changed forever. Regardless of the enormous cost, this breathtaking, pristine, white, church-like space of soaring ceilings, glass and marble is a beautiful sight to behold, its wing-like rib structure designed to resemble a bird taking flight. In so many ways the Oculus is the embodiment of the new Manhattan – a city rejuvenated, reinvented and ready to soar once again amongst the world’s greatest cities, a phoenix rising resiliently from the ashes of ground zero, and well worth us all rediscovering that New York’s heart is still beating.

STAY

THE GREENWICH HOTEL A truly gorgeous part of Lower Manhattan - that's an upscale mix of glorious old cast-iron loft buildings, wide cobblestone streets and dramatic new construction thirty years ago TriBeCa was the domain of bohemian artists and squatters who helped to develop and establish the area. Now one of the most desirable parts of NYC and known globally for its film festival, the "Triangle Below Canal Street" is considered by many to be one of the best neighbourhoods in the city, easily as hip as SoHo but without the congestion. Enjoying minuscule crime levels, great schools, tons of transit, well-planned waterfront access, and light-filled loft-type apartments in painstakingly renovated industrial buildings, it has already overtaken the Upper East Side as the city’s richest precinct, is prohibitively expensive, and any traces of racial and income diversity are long gone. But despite the changes, TriBeCa maintains the sophisticated and creative vibe it acquired as an artists' mecca in the 70s, thanks to the wealth of cultural and architectural heritage which prevails today, via an abundance of artist studios, immersive installations and world-class galleries, together with building gems, premium dining experiences and independently-owned boutiques.

Situated at the epicentre of this serene slice of urban jungle - on cobblestoned Greenwich Street, a block away from the Hudson River - is The Greenwich Hotel, Robert De Niro's chic, individually styled 88-room design hotel, encased in a classic, unassuming exterior of hand-moulded brick. If ever there was a hotel in which everything was hand-picked, carefully chosen and lovingly arranged, this is it.

From the moment you enter the hotel's understated portals, you're transported into a refined and calm home-away-from-home retreat, in the shadow of one of the world's busiest financial centers, although you'd never know it when inside. The calming effect is truly overwhelming, beginning from the friendly staff on first name terms who work as a team and behave like a family, through to the warm and welcoming rooms and suites - none of which are alike - laden with books, ornaments, artwork, traditional settees and comfy armchairs. The eclectic style is Morocco meets the tropics, with European and Oriental elements thrown in for good measure, all to excellent effect, although not too arty or full of itself. The result is supremely original and so god damn comfortable you'd wish the hotel was located in a less exciting city, so you could spend more time in your room enjoying the utter comfort and delicious surroundings.

The Greenwich’s calming pièce de résistance, is the hotel’s large subterranean pool, set beneath a 250-year-old bamboo roof of reclaimed wood, painstakingly reconstructed - nail-free - by Japanese craftsmen. Together with the adjoining treatment rooms, the tranquil pool, baths and Shibui Spa are a very rare find in spatially challenged TriBeCa. After a two-night stay in a luxuriously kitted out 900ft2 one-bedroom corner suite, complete with Bose sound system, complimentary mini-bar, spacious sitting area, dining table for four (set in one of the building’s semi-circular windows, with views of the Hudson), and a magnificent bathroom of hand-laid mosaic tiling and Italian Carrara marble, I decided I wanted to stay on a few more nights, whatever the cost.

But such is the popularity of the Greenwich (mostly with repeat guests, completely understandably) that sadly I had to leave. I can’t remember the last time I was so miserable to check out of a hotel. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.thegreenwichhotel.com 50 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

SEE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING Located in the heart of Midtown Manhattan, the tallest building in the world from 1931 to 1971 is the ancestor of all skyscrapers and makes a lasting impression in the minds of all who have stood beneath or atop this architectural icon. Perhaps the most impressive of the building's accolades is that it took less than 14 months to construct, an unimaginable timeline for a building of a similar height today. Visiting the Empire State is much more than just a view: following recent improvements, guests embark on a journey through and up one of the world's most famous landmarks, including the stunning Art Deco lobby and murals and historical Dare to Dream exhibit, and take in New York's most breathtaking views from its 86th and 102nd floor observatories, providing unforgettable 360° views of New York City. VIP express packages are also available, which include skipping the lines and priority access throughout. www.esbnyc.com SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM One of just two Frank Lloyd Wright commissions in Manhattan, New York's Guggenheim is as famous for its landmark building - which was restored for its 50th birthday in 2009 - as it is for its impressive collection and daring temporary art shows.

The museum owns Peggy Guggenheim’s trove of cubist, surrealist and abstract expressionist works, along with the Panza di Biumo Collection of American minimalist and conceptual art from the ’60s and ’70s.

In addition to works by Manet, Picasso, Chagall, Miró and Bourgeois, the Guggenheim holds the largest collection of Kandinskys in the States. The museum’s layout is like no other, as visitors experience the artwork whilst walking down a gently sloping ramp that spirals around the entire interior of the cylindrical building. Take the lift to the top and amble downwards at your leisure. www.guggenheim.org 52 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

STATUE OF LIBERTY Quite possibly the most famous statue in the world, if you've never visited Lady Liberty you've got to do it at least once!

Made in Paris by the French sculptor Bartholdi, in collaboration with Gustave Eiffel (who was responsible for the steel framework), this towering monument to freedom was a gift from France on the centenary of America’s independence.

Inaugurated in 1886, the colossal copper sculpture stands at the entrance to New York Harbour and has welcomed millions of visitors to the United States ever since.

Ferry tickets include access to the museum and the balcony located at the top of the statue's pedestal. For an extra three bucks you can climb the 162 narrow steps to the crown, and look out the twenty-four windows towards New York Harbour. But beware touts and only buy your tickets in advance at www.statuecruises.com/statue-liberty-and -ellis-island-tickets

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Since it was founded in 1929 as an educational institution, MoMA has been dedicated to being the foremost museum of modern art in the world. The rich and varied collection constitutes one of the most comprehensive and panoramic views into modern art in the world today. From an initial gift of eight prints and one drawing, MoMA's mammoth collection has grown to include over 150k paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, photographs, architectural models, drawings and design objects. You could spend a day getting lost in the MoMA's permanent exhibits, which showcase all manner of priceless pieces by renowned artists. But just as essential are the museum's other elements, including a cinema that combines art-house fare and more accessible offerings, top-notch MoMA Design Store, a sculpture garden with works by Picasso and Rodin, plus the Modern - a high-end restaurant and bar run by Danny Meyer. Be sure to catch Van Gogh's Starry Night, acquired by MoMA in 1941. www.moma.org

CENTRAL PARK Arguably one of the most famous urban parks in the world, middle-upper Manhattan's 843-acre Central Park is a manmade wonder visited by more than 40 million people each year, but sadly often overlooked by tourists. Don't! Even if you just stroll through the park from East to West, you will marvel at the gorgeous grounds containing nearly 50 fountains, countless monuments and sculptures, and some three-dozen bridges and arches. Central Park not only serves as a safe haven for athletes, daydreamers, musicians and walkers, but also for teems of migratory birds each year. The park also boasts several lakes, theaters, ice rinks, fountains, tennis courts, baseball fields, numerous playgrounds and other facilities.

Especially during the weekends, when cars are not allowed into the park, Central Park is a welcome oasis in the middle of the hectic city. www.centralparknyc.org NEUE GALERIE The brainchild of two friends with a shared passion - art dealer Serge Sabarsky and philanthropist Ronald S. Lauder - this lesser known two-floor Upper East Side gallery - just a few blocks from the Guggenheim - opened in 2001 to exhibit early 20th century German and Austrian art and design, and offers a welcome (if somewhat smaller scale) alternative to New York's bigger and much busier museums.

Neue Galerie owns a large collection of paintings by Gustav Glimt, the Austrian Expressionist artist whose brilliant, jeweled-toned and patterned paintings came to define the Art Nouveau movement. The gallery's collection includes Klimt’s famous Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer, also known as the ‘Woman in Gold’, the dazzling gold Secessionist-era painting which Lauder, co-founder of Neue Galerie, purchased in 2006 for USD 135 million. www.neuegalerie.org 54 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

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TASTE AI FIORI Located a short walk up the sweeping grand staircase of Langham Place hotel on Fifth Avenue, Michelin-starred Ai Fiori's ambiance is elegant and restrained yet welcoming and comfortable, the restaurant's striking floral arrangements and refined décor positively embracing you from the moment you arrive, and the long bar beckoning you to sit and sip a cocktail before making for your table.

Literally translated from Italian to 'Among the Flowers', acclaimed chef and restaurateur Michael White's inspired and creative menu, is a soulful amalgamation of French technique and Italian passion, executed with great skill, blending traditional fare with brave, contemporary touches to sublime effect. Leisurely making your way through an extravagant Ai Fiori tasting menu, for dinner, paired with glasses selected by wine director Raphael Ginsburg, is a gastronomic tour de force to be relished and enjoyed. If you are to indulge in just one Michelin-starred meal during your time in Manhattan, ensure that it's at Ai Fiori. www.aifiorinyc.com MORIMOTO The original executive chef at Nobu when it opened in New York, Masaharu Morimoto's eponymous establishment, on the fringes of the meatpacking district, is quite possibly the best Japanese restaurant in the city, skillfully juxtaposing formality, tradition and comfort. A low-slung understated entrance – hung with a simple, giant red curtain – gives way to a cutting-edge venue designed by Japanese architect, Tadao Ando, who has sprinkled the various rooms within the establishment with all manner of enigmatic touches and beautiful detailing, not least the walls and ceilings of the main dining room covered with sheets of rippled white plaster, giving the space a delightfully soothing effect. A vast selection of very fine sushi and sashimi roots the restaurant in Japan, together with various offerings of Kobe-style beef, but other dishes and ingredients branch out to other parts of Asia, and even to Europe and Latin America.

Everything The Cultured Traveller ate at 56 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

AI FIORI

Morimoto was divine, beautifully presented and a taste bud treat. A must for aficionados of Japanese cuisine. www.morimotonyc.com L'AMICO Set in a modern rustic-chic setting in the right wing of the Eventi Hotel lobby, L'Amico is quite simply a restaurant for people who want to eat well. Celebrated French chef Laurent Tourondel's Italian-influenced menu - which is brought to life via a kitchen visible throughout the dining room, as well as to passersby on Sixth Avenue - appeals to the average New Yorker, and is brimming with dishes that people pretty much always enjoy eating, like pasta, pizza and gelato. The pizzas served at L'Amico - pulled from one of two copper-clad wood-burning ovens (the second is dedicated to firing tendrils of octopus and Calabrian chili-seasoned gilt-head bream) are some of the best in the city, especially the sausage pizza with shredded shishito peppers on top. And the divine octopus - baked instead of grilled - is served with crushed potatoes that might actually be the slightly better thing on the plate. In a city where eating-out can often be overpriced, a meal at L'Amico is excellent value and worth every cent. www.lamico.nyc GILLIGAN'S You may have to hang tight until late spring 2017 to visit this established Manhattan summer pop-up, located in the street level yard space of the established SoHo Grand hotel, but it’s well worth the wait. Delivering the feel of out East in the heart of West Broadway, thanks to pebble beaches, tropical plants, wood-fired grills and a distinctly nautically theme – all a spin-off of Long Island's Moby Dick's – SoHo Grand’s outdoor tribute to beach, booze and pizza is a veritable hive of excitement and fun during the summer months, and one of the few places in SoHo you can genuinely let your hair down and relax without being judged by what you’re wearing. Mixologist-created cocktails feature refreshing and light flavours - Gilligan’s’ special Watermelon Margaritas being especially good - but be very careful when ordering a pitcher! Food wise, the small

plates are great for sharing and showcase the best ingredients from Long Island’s farmers and fishermen, whilst for main course the black sea bass with grilled wild ramps is superb. www.gilligansnyc.com MOMOSAN RAMEN & SAKE ‘Irrashimasen’ is the traditional welcome shouted out loud by the greeter as she seats every group of diners visiting minimalist Japanese eatery, Momosan, sibling of the hugely popular Morimoto in the meatpacking district. The perfect place to stop off in the middle of a Midtown shopping spree, or an afternoon visiting museums, Momosan serves tasty, fresh dumplings, ramen and noodles in a lively unpretentious environment, delivered to the table by chirpy, helpful staff at lightning speed. The ginger-topped tetsunabe pork gyoza, served sizzling on an iron skillet and poured over with sake, are divine and unmissable (USD 10), whilst the set lunch menu at 16 bucks, including a bowl of noodles, is plenty enough to satisfy even the most ravenous of diners. Guests are served on a first come first served basis, so arrive early or late for lunch! www.momosanramen.com MADISON & VINE A street corner American bistro, in a convenient Midtown Madison Avenue location within Library Hotel, serving typical, well-executed tasty New York fare, served by efficient, friendly staff. Great value for money, especially during the week when the restaurant's champagne happy hours from 5pm 'til 7pm attract a hip post work crowd which takes advantage of Laurent Perrier at 13 bucks a glass, Moët at USD 25 and Veuve at USD 43 per bottle. The beer braised short rib hash (USD 19), generous Norwegian smoked salmon plate (USD 18), and Vine Burger made with prime sirloin (USD 19) are not to be missed on Saturday and Sunday brunches from 11:30 'til 4pm. Not to mention the Bloody Mary's at 12 bucks and vodka-laced raspberry mint lemonade (USD 19). www.libraryhotel.com 58 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

MORIMOTO

MOMOSAN RAMEN & SAKE

MADISON & VINE

DEAR IRVING

SIP DEAR IRVING Run by the talented team behind sophisticated Chelsea cocktail lounge The Raines Law Room, this self-proclaimed 'cocktail parlor' is accessed by an unmarked staircase from Irving Place close to Union Square. What's inside is what new Manhattan is all about - creativity, cocktails and class. Dear Irving's various interconnecting rooms lead you back in time - from the disco sixties (think zebra print and vintage Playboys), into the roaring twenties (all crystal-beaded curtains and Art Deco fixtures), through to 19th century New York (dark wood and pressed-metal ceiling) and finally to 18th century France complete with chandeliers and Louis-style furnishings. With a room to suit all moods and any date, and high-quality artisan cocktails courtesy of skilled mixologist, Meaghan Dorman, who has created new takes on old classics, this is undoubtedly one of New York's finest drinking spots. www.dearirving.com GALLOW GREEN Some would say that these days in Manhattan the best shows to see happen in the city's restaurants and bars, rather than the theatres. This is almost certainly the case at the dreamy, verging on Alice In Wonderland-esque, rooftop bar just south of Hell’s Kitchen, called Gallow Green, accessed by a theatrical lift entrance which takes you to the top of a warehouse that operates as The McKittrick Hotel, home of the wildly popular interactive theatre performances, Sleep No More. Positively oozing character and eccentricity from every corner of the venue, visiting Gallow Green for the first time is like uncovering a secret, fairytale land of drinking and socialising which is the city's best kept secret. The whole charmingly loopy place felt a lot like a large, private garden party, lost in time, which The Cultured Traveller really didn’t want to leave. www.mckittrickhotel.com FLATIRON LOUNGE Set in a historic 1910 building in the heart of the Flatiron district, this classic, intimate cocktail lounge is styled in tribute to the city's romantic by-gone era, at its centre a lovingly restored 30ft-long original 1927 Art Deco bar counter that used to live in 60 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

the legendary Manhattan Ballroom. All around it are red leather banquette booths, small mahogany tables and subdued lighting, with plenty of dark wood and wrought ironwork lending the venue a timeless, quality vintage New York feel, and creating the vibe of a private drinking club. Deco-inspired blue and white stained glass lights hang over the bar, where delicious, hand-crafted drinks have been served for more than a decade, keeping guests buzzing until the wee hours. www.flatironlounge.com GRAND BAR & LOUNGE Located on fashionable West Broadway in the heart of SoHo, in the middle of the upscale downtown scene, this fittingly swanky hotel lounge and bar at the SoHo Grand, is a gorgeous merging of old world charm and contemporary-industrial style, that channels the grandeur of New York’s 1870s gilded age and the loft living artistry and bohemians of the 1970s. All towering columns, velvet drapes, bare brick walls and soaring vaulted ceilings, and frequented by hotel residents, fashionistas, music and film industry types and their hangers-on, the extensive cocktail menu includes a variety of expertly prepared herb and fruit-infused libations, plus a superb new American whiskey selection celebrating the proliferation of micro-distilleries in the States. www.sohogrand.com DARK HORSE COMEDY CLUB Regularly featuring New York comedians who have appeared on some of America's most high-profile shows, including Comedy Central and The Tonight Show, Adam Strauss' Dark Horse Comedy Club located in the heart of TriBeCa, is popular amongst locals for its professional approach, spaciousness, full bar, extensive menu, excellent service, reasonable prices and bloody hilarious comics. Whilst most comedy clubs treat food as an after-thought, Dark Horse is the complete opposite, offering a wide-ranging menu of tasty dishes and delicious drinks to choose from, so you can spend a good few hours enjoying the show and munching on a decent meal at the same time. www.darkhorsecomedyclub.com DEATH & CO. One of the trailblazers of New York’s neo-retro cocktail scene, there's nothing gloomy about this speakeasy-styled seminal

GALLOW GREEN

FLATIRON LOUNGE

venue, which many say was the first proper cocktail bar in Manhattan’s East Village. Hiding behind distinctive doors and peddling a uniquely gothic vibe, the low-lit and intimate interior exudes a cool, jazzy vibe. Kerosene lanterns and crystal chandeliers add to the atmosphere, scattering shadows up the gold-flecked walls, while the granite tables and suede banquettes have evidently been chosen for their understated, classy look. Über-passionate and highly talented bartenders set this NY haunt apart from its competition with their truly superb and lovingly mixed concoctions. www.deathandcompany.com BATHTUB GIN A red light glowing inside the Stone Street Coffee Company (and the seemingly out-of-place gaggle of people waiting to get in) provide clues that there’s more than just coffee inside this tiny storefront. In fact it's a fake Victorian bar hidden behind a coffee shop in Chelsea. Bathtub Gin's name may conjure Prohibition-era moonshine (naturally they have a namesake copper bathtub prominently displayed in the center of the bar), but the drinks list was created by fresh talent on New York's cocktail circuit - mixologist Sean Muldoon of Belfast's much lauded Merchant Hotel bar. Choose from his creations, like the West Side (gin, sherry, St. Germain, cucumber, basil) and the Jazz Age (rum, pampelmousse rose, cherry liqueur, grapefruit). Nibble on small plates of comfort food - such as fried oysters or pork belly sliders - while sipping on your gin cocktails. www.bathtubginnyc.com ROOF GARDEN BAR Situated on the fifth floor of The Met Fifth Avenue, it's only fitting that a museum which houses some of the world's most beautiful works of art would feature a rooftop bar that offers yet more gorgeous opportunities for gazing. The aptly named Roof Garden Bar offers spectacular sweeping vistas of Central Park and beyond, that can be enjoyed accompanied by wine, cocktails and light bites. It's only open when the museum is (the bar closes at 4.30pm on weekdays), is often overflowing with tourists, and the drinks prices are on the high side, but it's worth a visit for the views of New York City's most lush greenery and breathtaking skyline. Open until 8.15pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Best to visit on a weekday. www.metmuseum.org 62 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

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SPEND HENRI BENDEL Founded in 1895 by a hat maker from Louisiana, Henri Bendel department store is arguably one of Manhattan's best, but you'd expect nothing less from the store responsible for bringing Coco Chanel to the United States, and hiring Andy Warhol as an illustrator in the 1960’s. Today Henri Bendel has 29 stores across the country, including its four storey boutique-like flagship on Fifth Avenue, where you can purchase everything from jewellery, handbags and homewares to it's deliciously scented candles which are a personal fave. Whether you're shopping for a new outfit or an uptown gift, Henri Bendel usually has something in store for the fashionista in us all. www.henribendel.com FIVESTORY Opened less than five years ago by Claire Distenfeld, daughter of Fred Distenfeld, a retired exotic skin importer, if the fashion world loves it (or thinks it's about to), you'll probably find it at Fivestory, occupying two-and-a-half floors of an Upper East Side townhouse on 69th Street.

This beautiful boutique is run by the young female entrepreneur and her attentive team, and the luxe setting is perfect to browse pieces from up-and-coming designers including Maiyet, Ellery and Rosetta Getty, as well as a smattering of Distenfeld-derived python purses. Not everything is crazy expensive, and you can usually find original accessories and contemporary pieces for under a few hundred bucks. www.fivestoryny.com STUART WEITZMAN Stuart Weitzman has been designing sophisticated and elegant but not overly expensive luxury shoes in New York, since he worked for his father’s factory in the 1960s. His brand is now truly international, with stores all over the globe, from its New York flagship to the October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

gorgeous Zaha Hadid-designed Stuart Weitzman boutique on Milan's Via della Spiga, opened by Kate Moss. Feed your food fetish and browse Weitzman's latest collection in supreme comfort, whilst being waited on hand and foot, at 675 Fifth Avenue. www.stuartweitzman.com DOVER STREET MARKET When runway renegade Rei Kawakubo (chief executive of designer brand, Comme des Garçons), opened her artfully designed, seven storey, multibrand carnivalesque fashion wonderland in 2013, occupying a stately Beaux-Arts building on Lexington Avenue and 30th Street, it was instantly a New York fashion retailing game changer.

Not only does the emporium carry Comme and its many offshoots - including Play, Black and Shirt - but it also showcases a smartly edited if slightly riotous mix of other brands, from Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton to Simone Rocha and Rick Owens, plus of-the-moment names like Vetements and Hood by Air, as well as an exclusive collection by cult veteran designer, Andre Walker. www.doverstreetmarket.com BARNEYS NEW YORK DOWNTOWN The return of Barneys to Chelsea, via a sprawling, four-floor flagship on Seventh Avenue, at the site of the historic lifestyle brand's original location, garnered lots of buzz when it launched earlier this year. The well-designed space feels warm and inviting, is a pleasure to wander around, and is significantly less overwhelming than the veritable maze that is Barneys' uptown flagship. Sporting a tight selection of cosmetics, perfumes, men's and women's accessories, women's shoes and ready-to-wear, and men's shoes and ready-to-wear, the store is connected via an arty white spiral staircase at its core, and there's an onsite Fred's - Barneys’ in-house eatery - to snack, lunch or simply pause for a glass of wine in between bursts of spending. www.barneys.com KITH Located behind Atrium NYC in SoHo, at 644 Broadway and Bleeker, Ronnie Fieg’s 66 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

Manhattan outpost, Kith, has always been a go-to place for the latest in footwear and streetwear, and is notable because not only does it stock some über-cool limited edition versions of his own designs, but you can also find covetable designs from Grenson, Sebago, Caminando, Danner, and other makers of quality footwear. Also on sale are a selection of apparel brands (including Fieg's affordable in-house label) that blur the lines between fashion and leisurewear. www.kithnyc.com ABC CARPET & HOME In the heart of the Flatiron district, despite the fact that most of goods contained within ABC Carpet & Home's six-floor Manhattan flagship are luxe, upscale or vintage, the place retains a certain comfortable, warehouse aesthetic, making it a delightful place to browse and shop. Worn hardwood floors creak under your feet, glittering chandeliers and gigantic antique carpets adorn the high ceilings, and the store abounds with furniture vignettes. Flip through piles of rugs on six, peruse the Ralph Lauren room sets on five, get lost in the European antiques on four, lust after the bed linens on three, and covet the modern vintage pieces on two. As if this wasn’t enough, across the street are three more floors of carpets at one of ABC's many satellite locations. www.abchome.com CENTURY 21 DOWNTOWN Love it or hate it, New York’s famed discount designer store is still one of Manhattan’s biggest retail draws. Located downtown in the heart of the Financial District, Century 21 is a massive, multilevel department store, where, if you are prepared to search hard enough and can handle the warehouse-like shopping environment in places, you can find some of the best bargains in the city, with designer merchandise for sale at huge discounts, especially key pieces from previous seasons. Visit Century 21 for designer American-branded underwear and basics by Ralph Lauren and suchlike at the best prices in Manhattan. www.c21stores.com BARNEYS NEW YORK DOWNTOWN

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Panoramic One-Bedroom Suite Burj Al Arab, Dubai All that glitters is gold at Burj Al Arab in Dubai, as Ashlee Starratt spends a weekend in the lap of suite luxury amid the seven-star playground of royalty and rock stars.

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 69

D

ubai at sunset is a dragon opening one gleaming eye – like a hot ball on the horizon.

Below its tail, a mound of gold – the city; oud-scented and alive. The last of the sun’s rays refract off the glimmering glass of buildings so high they skim the clouds. Very soon, day will trade for night and a different, dusky city awakens; one where the sleek shine of Maseratis is out-polished and out-prowled only by the reflective chrome of Lamborghinis. A city where its myriad of restaurants and nightclubs heave with taste and opulence, and where, on the dance-floor, the height of ladies’ Louboutins rival the skyscrapers. This is the playground of princes, the exotic escape of Hollywood’s elite and, a desert city where hundreds of thousands of blue-collar expats eke out a living on the edge of uncertainty and the fumes of oil. Tonight, as a dove-white Rolls Royce Phantom glides down the city’s arterial highway and into the eye of the dragon, six-lanes of glinting Thursday night traffic reflect the remains of the day, as we chase the light down Sheikh Zayed Road. The direction is south and the destination is Burj Al Arab.

In an emirate that’s built its currency on luxury, to experience Burj Al Arab is to shake hands with modern

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Dubai. Staking its claim along an azure stretch of coastline 15 kilometres south of the city’s downtown core, the world’s most recognisable hotel is also one of its youngest, conceptualised in 1993 and opened in 1999 – a testament to the emirate’s unparalleled pace of progress. As the 1980s wound down, what was once a mostly empty expanse of desert quickly became an oasis for rapid development.

Buildings sprouted from the sand seemingly overnight and Dubai’s infrastructure, in its infancy, took root.

As one of Jumeirah Group’s flagship hotel properties, Burj Al Arab has become one of its nation’s most identifiable symbols – its unique sail design a nod to Dubai’s broad nautical heritage. For there is tradition here; a hospitality rooted in the Bedouin spirit that mustn’t be forgotten, as it forms the bedrock of the brand’s ethos. Arrival to departure, the Arab sense of generosity lingers – from chauffeured airport pick-up, to personalised, private check-out. Which is why I find myself in the backseat of a ghostly Roller, barreling down the blacktop towards a seven-star stay in a global icon. If the devil’s in the details, none dare go overlooked at Burj Al Arab. Stepping out of the arrivals lounge at DXB, humidity engulfs before I am presented with a bouquet of flowers and the smiling visage

of the hotel’s chauffeur – decked in white from cap to gloves. In the car, I’m offered a music menu to select from – to set the ambiance – and my eye falls upon the latest Café del Mar compilation. The ride is plush and the on-board refreshments cool.

At 56-storeys high, its Guinness World Record title as the ‘World’s Tallest All-Suite Hotel’ is well earned. On the approach, the structure looms monolithic. Built by Atkins under the guidance of lead architect Thomas Wills Wright, its construction is a marvel. With its triangular shape, eleven luxe retail outlets and world’s tallest atrium – which at 182 metres is enough to dwarf the Statue of Liberty – the entire structure clocks in at a colossal 250,000 tonnes.

As my luggage is whisked away, I step inside a lobby that initially overwhelms the senses, its cathedral-like grandeur punctuated with splashes of colour, opulent fabrics and Arabic influences, all set against a backdrop of gold. The hotel’s interior design is a salute to primary colours – each suite an Aladdin’s cave of glitz. To the uninitiated, first impressions may seem over-stated, but spend a night and the over-the-top surroundings and décor soon feel like home.

Conceptualized and outfitted by Chinese interior designer Kuan Chew, each floor (as you crane your neck upwards!) is a rainbow hue against a striking contrast of white. The addition of this colourful element came at the specific request of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, ruler of Dubai, after touring the property with Chew ahead of its completion.

After a warm Arabic welcome – complete with an arrival procession delivering cold towels, fresh dates and aromatic spiced tea - I’m swept upstairs to a 12th floor Panoramic One-Bedroom Suite. There’s a discreet sensibility in the way Burj Al Arab facilitates its guest experience. Each floor has its own concierge and each suite its own, assigned private butler. I’m greeted with a smile by Fayaz, who informs me that he’ll be at my round-the-clock disposal for the next 48-hours of my stay.

Check-in is done privately in the suite, from the comfort of your own, personal business centre, complete with iMac and in-room printer. There’s no need to lug your laptop here. During my stay I didn’t press an elevator button or swipe my room-entry card once, since Fayaz was always on-hand - from the moment I set foot out the door - to get me where I needed to go within the building.

Spread out over two levels, my Panoramic One-Bedroom Suite boasts floor-to-ceiling windows and a regal, winding staircase to the upper bedroom level. Its open-plan design allows the light to stream in from all corners – making sunrise and sunset a truly memorable experience set against an oceanic backdrop with views towards the Palm Jumeirah.

The lower level of the suite is adorned in lush blues and yellows, with an expansive dining and living area, private bar and TV encased in gold. Upstairs the palette changes to claret red, with a huge bed spread languidly below a mirrored ceiling. A sumptuous walk-in dressing area and regal master bath make an evening of pampering before dinner an absolute must.

With nine restaurants and bars on site, the food and beverage options at Burj Al Arab are a veritable feast for the senses, with Jumeirah Group employing two-Michelin-starred Chef, Nathan Outlaw, to oversee the award-winning, underwater Al Mahara seafood restaurant.

Al Muntaha restaurant - jutting out on the hotel’s cantilevered 27th floor - is as much a destination for celebrity sightings as it is for its take on modern French cuisine, complete with spectacular vistas that are difficult

to beat. After dinner I made the short walk across to Gold On 27, the hotel’s newest lounge located on the same floor. As its name suggests, the décor is 24 karat, the DJ refined and the cocktails exquisite, with names such as Light Sweet Crude and City Of Gold from a menu that tells the story of modern Dubai. I order a Wisdom Of Pearls – an evolved take on a traditional Bloody Mary – which is served in a mother of pearl tumbler, with a lobster bisque base and a yogurt pearl set atop an oyster shell.

When I return to my room the hour is late and Fayaz has run a Jacuzzi bath; a dozen fresh roses, delivered daily, are in a vase by the entry-way, and a complimentary bottle of Chilean cabernet sauvignon has been opened to breathe.

It’s these little details that earn Burj Al Arab its seven-star reputation. In every suite, guests find a menu designed exclusively for such little luxuries – oysters on the half-shell, bespoke floral arrangements, and hand-crafted creations from the chocolatier, should the mood strike.

At 150-metres above the sea, overlooking the Gulf, Talise Spa’s 18th floor perch affords some truly spectacular views as you drift off to sleep on the massage table, or luxuriate in the warm waters of its infinity pool. Spread October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 73

out over two floors, it’s cool, mosaicked corridors are reminiscent of a traditional Turkish bath, but in fact house expansive men’s and ladies’ facilities, steam rooms and plunge pools, a squash court, and aerobic fitness centre – all among the clouds. I indulge in an 85-minute Burj Al Arab Signature Massage, where the deft hands of my therapist Ana and the idyllic scent of lavender oil quickly seduce my senses.

No stay at the hotel is complete without experiencing its latest engineering marvel – Burj Al Arab Terrace – a world-first in marine and off-site construction, unveiled just a few months ago. Step out the doors from Bab Al Yam (the hotel’s airy ground-floor all-day-dining restaurant), and the Terrace spreads out in front of you, stretching 100m into the sea. The structure was expertly crafted in Finland and transported to Dubai in eight pieces. The design incorporates a 612m2 freshwater pool, 828m2 saltwater infinity pool, 24 cabanas, 4 Jacuzzis, a swim-up bar, 8 Royal Cabanas, and al fresco Californian-fusion Scape Restaurant & Bar. 10 million mosaic tiles in shades of azure and gold line the pools, while 1,000 tonnes of white sand create the dazzling beach.

Cabana guests enjoy full butler service, and today I’m enjoying the royal treatment. Royal Cabanas are equipped with their own mini-bar, spacious air-conditioned living room, private balcony overlooking the ocean, and a shower and bath en-suite with amenities by luxury Australian skin care company, Sodashi. All around me, bronzed bodies linger in repose – an elite mix of sun-worshippers, weekend warriors and cultured travellers – with something for everyone.

If Dubai truly is the jewel of the Middle East, its her people that make her such. Those I encountered during my stay at Burj Al Arab brought a warm, human element to the overwhelming surroundings of luxury. It’s this sense of hospitality that permeates the guest experience at Burj Al Arab, moulding the memorable into the truly unforgettable.

As I gaze out over the edge of the Terrace’s infinity pool with a cocktail in my hand, the sun is high and, just beyond the breakers, the jet-ski crowd is out in full force. Beyond the lip of my glass, the Gulf’s azure water stretches onwards towards a glassy horizon where all that glitters really is gold.

Ashlee Starratt stayed at Burj Al Arab in August 2016.

In October and November 2016, the average nightly rate for a Panoramic One-Bedroom Suite is AED 8,900 plus taxes inclusive of breakfast and return BMW airport transfers. The rate is AED 10,990 plus taxes from 21 Oct - 6 Nov 2016. www.elegantresorts.co.uk www.burjalarab.com 74

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CULTUREDCHAT WITH NADIM KARAM SINCE THE EARLY 1990S, ARTIST AND ARCHITECT NADIM KARAM HAS LEFT HIS MARK ON THE METROPOLITAN VISAGES OF BEIRUT AND BEYOND. LEBANON’S DE FACTO ARTIST LAUREATE, KARAM’S WORLDWIDE URBAN ART INSTALLATIONS UNDERSCORE THEIR VISCERAL SENSIBILITIES THROUGH ARCHITECTURE THAT TELLS A STORY OF THE SPACE IT OCCUPIES. THE CULTURED TRAVELLER’S ASHLEE STARRATT EXPLORES THEMES OF URBAN RENEWAL AND CREATIVE REBELLION WITH THE ARTIST HIMSELF. Beirut’s cultural renaissance in the 1960’s earned it the reputation as the ‘Paris of the Middle East.’ Having spent your formative years in Beirut during this period, how do you remember that epoch in the city’s narrative and how did that Beirut influence you as an artist today – or did it?

I remember the Beirut of that era from my childhood impressions – the glamour, the different communities of foreign and local people who intermingled downtown. I remember the cinemas, the cafés, the music and the souks. I think there must have been a tremendous energy in Beirut at that time and, ultimately, the memory of it gave me confidence in the cultural strength of my city.

Beirut has always been a phoenix, constantly between effervescence and disaster; it’s part of its magical attraction.

It’s like living near an active volcano – you know that at any time it could blow, but the soil is so rich and fertile you can’t leave. This fertility and, probably, the sensation of living for the moment, nourishes my thoughts, practice and output.

After graduating from the American University in Beirut in the early 1980s, you went on to obtain your

Masters and Doctoral Degrees in Architecture from the University of Tokyo. What drew you to the Far East as a young architect and how did you develop your interest in the Japanese philosophy of space?

Most Lebanese students think about the U.S. or Europe for further studies, but I was fascinated by the culture of Japan and the simplicity and restraint that Japanese architects were bringing to international architectural discourse. Once I reached there, I found that the only way to understand their design was to understand the impregnation of Buddhist, Confucian and Shinto ideas in their culture and philosophy of space, which are so different from Western and Middle Eastern concepts.

You left the American University in 1982 during the height of Lebanon’s Civil War. The human cost of conflict is immeasurable in its destruction; yet an architect is in a unique profession of hope – to re-build. Back in 2002, you were selected by the U.N. as co-chairman on the conference for the reconstruction of Kabul. What were its outcomes and can you describe the weight of this responsibility?

I have lived the effects of war on an individual as well as [on a] collective level, and have a lot of empathy for Kabul’s situation – particularly as an Afghan ex-student of mine, Ajmal, was and is still active in trying to help regenerate the city. The conference in London was more like a think-tank; analysing data to understand the hurdles from different angles rather than making decisions and taking responsibilities. As it turned out, it was premature because the violence was far from over.

You’re multi-disciplinary in your approach as an artist – sculptor, painter, urban artist, and architect – fusing each medium to create large-scale ‘urban interventions’ in cities around the world. Can you elaborate on the concept behind your Urban Toys public art series – what are the stories behind these organic, and often dream-like works?

After ten years in Japan, I wrote an article called ‘Hapsitus’ (A+U magazine, ’92) which was at the same time the genesis of my urban projects and their theoretical backbone. My studies in architecture fed and informed my love of cities; the way they breathe and work, their silhouettes and their spaces. My concern was where they became choked by their own functionalism and networks, and stagnated in stultifying routines, draining the energy from the city. A decade later, terrorist attacks added another dimension to life in cities; introducing fear and trauma.

My urban projects are basically about giving stories to cities, allowing for questioning of accepted norms and moments of dreams. The stories and characters dig into the culture and memory of the place to help reconnect people with their roots, and give a whimsical look towards the future.

The interaction of people with the stories generates its own creative energy.

You’ve made it your life’s work to apply art and creative expression as a form of ‘rebellion’ in response to fear, geopolitical upheaval, terrorism, and urban decay. Have you found a mutual ally in the public’s sentiment towards the subject matter of your work?

You know, art in the public domain lies in ambiguous territory, in the sense that it’s not controlled by the art world, but by city administrations. If not well-studied, or thought out and planned, people will react against the giant imposition of an object in their community spaces. My architectural background has given me the psychological tools to deal with cities. I enjoy dissecting the urban layers; the architecture, the spaces, communities, stories and memories and then, within it, I find a canvas to express an idea. I consider a project a success when people adopt it, even if it was only there temporarily.

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THE THREE MAGIC FLOWERS OF JITCHU

In Prague, after struggling for three years to realise the project, it was great when Prime Minister Vaclav Havel called an impromptu press conference in front of my work, declaring it as a symbol of Czech liberation and opening to the world. It was also nice to see Prague vendors selling tourist postcards of my project on the bridge many years after it had happened.

The Beirut project was the most controversial during its three-year lifespan, because it was not easy to bring new stories to a territory that has seen so much bloodshed and suffering. Those who opposed it said it was irreverent, and those who loved it said it defined the hope of the post-war period for a fresh beginning. I knew I was on the right track when parents told me they would take their kids to downtown on the weekends to discover where the Archaic Procession sculptures had gone next. I was also surprised and pleased when Van Alen Institute in New York selected it as one of five projects worldwide that contributed to regenerating a city after a disaster.

PUBLIC ART INSTALLATION PRAGUE

THE TRAVELERS, MELBOURNE

In 1996 you founded the iconic Atelier Hapsitus (happening + situations) in Beirut where it evolved from an art-cum-architecture collective, where young ingénués cut their teeth, into one of the globe’s most prolific voices for artistic dissent and urban awakening. Please can you tell us more about its genesis?

I witnessed first-hand ten years of an economic and cultural flourishing in Japan, and returned to Beirut with an outsider’s gaze. I wanted to create possibilities for Beirutis to get a different perspective on their city. I was joined by a few of my graduate students, and we created our first manifesto, ‘Hilarious Beirut’, which was a counter-proposal to the official scheme for re-building downtown Beirut – which I was against on many levels. We followed this with the installations at Sursock Museum, the National Museum, the Prague and the downtown Beirut public art projects.

Somewhere along the way, we defined ourselves as the Hapsitus collective. Many Hapsititians have come and gone over the years, but we maintain our energy through the mix of disciplines, local cultures and different nationalities.

Of Hapsitus’ dozens of temporary and permanent art installations worldwide, several of its most iconic are Beirut’s The Archaic Procession, The Three Magic Flowers of Jitchu in Nara, Japan, and Melbourne, Australia’s The Travellers – all of which are part of the Urban Toys series. Walk us through your collaborative process from conceptualization to realization in this series.

The Archaic Procession were, in origin, 1001 drawings of different elements, inspired by humans, animals, plants and

objects that I created to celebrate diversity and pluralism. These inhabited my paintings, but in Beirut I made 22 giant sculptures of them, and created a three-year itinerant project, moving different combinations of them from bridges, to squares, to building tops overnight every couple of months for three years. The idea was to bring anti-symbols to Beirut, far from the political and religious symbols that had defined conflict for so long.

The Three Flowers of Jitchu was a project I began as a doctoral student in Japan studying temple architecture. I wanted to celebrate the work of a monk from the Middle East who became an extraordinary thinker and creator in Japan, but it took me 20 years to convince the committee of monks to accept a contemporary art installation in their grounds. The two weeks of the installation was for me the realisation of a dream.

The Travellers project began when I was visiting Melbourne. I became aware of a city project to put a series of three-storey buildings on an abandoned industrial rail bridge that crossed the inner-city river. I was convinced that this was the wrong decision, [as the] bridge was a magnificent cultural icon and a symbol of the city’s history. I went back to Beirut and, after working all summer, sent the city a counter-proposal to install three-storey high sculptures on the bridge that would represent the different immigrant groups to Melbourne. These would stay in ‘parking’ most of the time, travelling across the bridge on railways three times a day at set times, and staying one hour before returning, so they would also function as an urban clock.

Five years later, I received a response from Melbourne city, when they decided to realise the project before the Commonwealth Games.

A singular facet of the Hapsitus philosophy is the notion of ‘dream bombs’. Can you elaborate on their purpose and manifestations?

I have lived and felt the effect of bombs raining down on my city. There’s the point of attack, the explosion, and then the circular ripples of destruction. These correspond with the shock, the deaths and the ripples of sadness through the population. I wanted to use the same strategy and take similar risks to obtain exactly the opposite effect; create surprise, amusement, and moments of joyous energy spreading through the public domain.

I consider that I and all other creative practitioners work in parallel with terrorists; they promote nihilism through destruction while we promote memories and dreams through creative projects. They don’t notice that we exist, and our concerns are meaningless to them, but our strongest weapon against them is the affirmation of life and energy in the public domain.

War is a theme that permeates your body of work (2006 War Series and 2012 Shooting the Cloud paintings). As images of heartbreak continue to overwhelm – most recently, the video footage of young Syrian boy Omran Daqneesh who was pulled in shock from the rubble of his family home after an air-strike in Aleppo. As an artist, how do you seek to reconcile the human toll of conflict within the ethos of your work?

I can only try to express it through my work, the latest of which are the Shout and Silence sculptures, which I exhibited with Ayyam Gallery at Art Dubai this year. In the catalogue of these works, I wrote the following: “…Like a yoyo, the Middle East fluctuates between Shout and Silence. When you are in a small boat with your family, searching for the shore, but in fact drifting towards the unknown, are you silent or shouting? When millions are fleeing their homes, running to Anywhere, are they silent or shouting?”

I exhibited two Silence sculptures, and The dialogue of the deaf, which was two Shout sculptures facing each other, “in a psychological wrestling match where there can 80

I DON’T THINK ARTISTS CONSCIOUSLY TAKE ON THE RESPONSIBILITY TO BE THE VOICE OF THE TIMES;

SHHHHHHH...SHOUT!

THE ARCH

be no winners or losers; an abyss of eternal conflict. The issues at stake appear to be perpetually changing, but in reality are just becoming more complex. The shouting of these two opposing forces can trap an entire population between them.”

Shout and Silence might emerge from the grimmest of conditions of the Middle East, but ultimately, they are fiercely optimistic expressions of the human will to be, strive and create.

Your work has been described as ‘storytelling architecture’, with movement and impermanence being common elements. Like the hakawati from your father’s tales, do you identify with the concept of the story-teller as a nomad – having left your message and your mark across the world through your pieces.

Yes, I think I can identify with being a storyteller – it saves me from the conundrum of being an architect, urban artist, painter or sculptor! I combine the Lebanese hakawati (storyteller) with the Japanese marebito – the roving outsider who can bring fresh spirit, ideas and changes to a 82

community just because he does not carry within him the psychological restrictions of how things have always been done there. I think there is something in that – to be able to introduce new stories to a place is to strike the delicate balance between having cultural awareness, but not being weighed down by its constraints.

Stretching Thoughts, your solo show at Beirut’s Ayyam Gallery, has made waves in the art world as it probes the human impact of decisions meted out by governments and how the fortitude of our collective energy and creativity as a people expands beyond all imposed boundaries. Would you say that this series, in its own way, is an ode to Lebanon, her history, her trials, and her resilience – or does it go beyond that?

The Stretching Thoughts series evokes both the positivist power and limitless possibilities that thoughts can generate as well as the abandoned fate of neglected thoughts. It carries a message that could be read as universalist, but, as you guessed, it is very much inspired by Lebanon.

Is there one unrealized project that keeps you up at

THE ELEPHANT CITY

HAIC PROCESSION, BEIRUT CENTRAL DISTRCIT

night, and if so, what’s holding you back?

I have many! The Muse, an architectural project to build my own art workshop in the Lebanese mountains, is very much on my mind. I am building it so that I can finally have the space to create large-scale paintings. I am also thinking a lot about a new sculpture I want to make: Trou de Memoire (Memory Lapse). It’s about void and memory, and I think it encapsulates most of my work until now. I also want to realise The Elephant City, a giant sculptural building for Lagos, Nigeria.

Via Atelier Hapsitus, you’ve made a commitment to perpetuate the voice of Lebanese artistic talent, while honouring your own roots. You could have established this collective anywhere – Paris, Tokyo, New York. Why did you choose to come home, and what’s the most liberating element about being an artist in the Beirut of 2016?

I have always felt that it’s important to be here. It would be much easier to establish a practice outside, become adopted by that country, and benefit from the support of its institutions – but then I would be doing a different kind of

work, expressing different realities. I want to express the energy and the chaos, the culture and the complexities of life in Lebanon and the Middle East, and for that, I need to be here. From here, we realise public art projects for cities all over the world!

No matter the profession, we all draw our inspiration and drive from somewhere, someone, or something.

Who or what are your creative catalysts?

Whenever I travel, I always carry a sketchbook with me. I use the long hours in planes to fill it with spontaneous ideas.

These have become my well of inspiration, and the ongoing primary output and source for all my work.

You’ve been outspoken about your mission as an artist to create an original ‘urban vocabulary’. What exactly does that constitute and why is a new language for this dialogue necessary in your opinion?

Urban environments are the fastest-growing environments on earth. Whether organised and planned, or organically chaotic, they are there to serve the primary functions of residences, work spaces, commercial, health and leisure

MY ARCHITECTURAL BACKGROUND HAS GIVEN ME THE PSYCHOLOGICAL TOOLS TO DEAL WITH CITIES.

NADIM KARAM AT STRETCHING THOUGHTS OPENING EXHIBITION IN 2016 84

spaces, transportation and communication networks. What you can never plan into an urban area is the dynamic, creative, and productive energy of its people. Without this, cities are just empty carcasses.

In the preface to my 2006 Urban Toys, book, Paul Virilio wrote, “Just what will become of our cities, these concentrations of real estate inertia?” I believe that creating pockets of absurdity, dreams, stories and memories in the city stimulates the invisible, essential energy of cities. Ideas can move people; they can offer moments of dreams. The form that this urban artistic language takes does not matter, but it should be intuitive and responsive to its culture and people.

Since 2000 you’ve published four books on the significance of your most seminal projects and, this year, you’re currently in progress on the first Hapsitus book, Resiliency. Why did you choose this name as its title, and can you offer us a glimpse inside?

This takes me back to your question about establishing my work practice in Beirut rather than elsewhere. It was a choice, one I believe in, but it has not been easy. Many times we were forced to close the office and stop working because of wars or explosions. My book Urban Toys was literally printed under bombs. The country we live in is unable to support our line of work easily, so we work from here for the rest of the world. Resiliency is not passive endurance; it’s an act of resistance through creative projects. It’s also a way to navigate the complexities of the country. The book will be an overview of Hapsitus projects over the last couple of decades.

Artists have a certain responsibility to be the voice of their times, and you’ve left an indelible mark through your work – and that of Atelier Hapsitus – as a voice of hope and levity in the face of global conflict. Do you envision a future without conflict in the Middle East and how would your art, and its message, evolve in its wake?

I don’t think artists consciously take on the responsibility to be the voice of the times; if they did, they might stop working! Artists are intuitive; they can only project what they feel, nourished by the social climate, environment and times.

I cannot envision the near future without conflict in the Middle East, but as long as I can work, I will be reflecting what is going on around me, whether it is peace or conflict…

As well as countless galleries and museums around the world, many of your pieces can be seen on public display in hospitality environments – including Le Gray hotel in Beirut and Louis Vuitton’s boutique in Dubai’s Mall of the Emirates. Do you specifically tailor your works to suit these kinds of settings, or do you prefer to maintain a more organic approach?

I am a man of geography, topography and circumstances; I like to resolve spatial matrices. My purposeful interventions are the projects I conceive. But once my exhibited works are sold, they sometimes have an interesting way of re-appearing in a public context. The sculpture at Louis Vuitton was actually in the context of an art workshop I was giving for children there, and the Le Gray elephant departed from my first Ayyam Gallery Beirut exhibition opening in the arms of Mr. Gray, who had decided that it was going to be his hotel mascot.

With so much unrest happening across the world, is there a corner of the planet where you’re able to relax, unwind and have some semblance of a real vacation?

Under the apricot tree at my house in the mountains of Lebanon!

HOW STRONG IS YOUR PASSPORT? The Cultured Traveller team investigates the current strength of the world’s passports, and what it might cost you to legitimately obtain a second passport which is actually worth having A passport gives an individual the ability to travel the world with relative ease - unless the passport is from say Afghanistan or Somalia. As the world becomes a much smaller place - due to the diminishing cost of flying and the increasing ease with which travellers can hop on a plane the desirability of a passport is becoming of much greater importance, with many nations now offering their passports to non-nationals, in exchange for a sizeable investment in their country’s economies, often of many millions. Malta currently runs the world’s most successful co-called

around double that in government bonds for five years.

Cyprus is the third smallest nation in the EU and some would say that the island made it onto the world stage by seizing the cash of wealthy foreigners to bail out its banks during the country’s 2013 financial meltdown. Surprisingly, from this mess, came Cyprus’ current citizenship offer, with passports offered in exchange for investments of EUR 2.5million, although that figure is almost certainly negotiable!

“citizenship-by-investment” program, and has gained visa-free access to another two countries since 2015, increasing the strength of a Maltese passport to the 8th most powerful in the world this year.

Because a number of governments around the world need to raise hundreds of millions of dollars to fill up their coffers, second passports have become a multi billion-dollar business. And there is not a lack of customers. In fact, demand for some often outstrips supply. But there is no easy or cheap way to legally get your hands on an authentic second passport, and in todays market countries are not interested in diminishing their brand by selling you a passport for say USD 50k. If anyone tells you otherwise, or claims to have a guy who can “hook you up”, run the other way!

A St. Lucian second passport is currently the best value, with the option of buying one outright for USD 250k, or investing

cannot even take a holiday without weeks, or often months, of planning and paperwork, not to mention sizeable costs which can run into the hundreds of Dollars for a single visa application to visit just one country. Even then, there’s no guarantee that the traveller will be granted a visa and permitted to travel, with applications quite often refused, and costly multiple applications needed to facilitate just one trip. Meanwhile, others can hop on a plane on a whim to pretty much any destination, and either enter a country freely or very easily get a visa on arrival. Hence the passports we hold now not only influence our holidaying options, but also our working and love lives. Since this subject is one The Cultured Traveller is regularly asked about, we've done a little bit of research, and compiled a summary of the best passports in the world this year for travellers: Whilst the UK topped the 2015 ranking with the world’s

86 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

People born in countries with less desirable passports

most powerful passport last year - a position it held for three consecutive years - according to this year’s study, German citizens currently possess the world's most covetable passport, which now occupies the top spot. The Henley & Partners ranking takes into account how many countries can be visited without applying for a visa. Out of a possible 218 countries, holders of German passports can now travel to 177 nations visa free. Meanwhile UK passport holders can visit 175 and American citizens 174. Swedish nationals now hold the world’s second most powerful passport. Joint third place is shared between the UK, France, Italy, Spain and Finland. Although American citizens enjoy great travel freedom, a US passport is no longer the strongest, coming in forth this year, alongside Belgium, Denmark and the Netherlands.

Visa requirements, of course, are often an interesting

still able to access 167 countries visa free. For the first time in years, a New Zealand passport is stronger than an Australian passport, having moved up to joint seventh place with the Greeks, able to visit 171 countries without a visa.

The world's least powerful passport belongs to citizens of Afghanistan, who can visit just 25 countries without any special visa requirements. Afghanistan is followed by Pakistan with 29 countries, Iran with 30 and Somalian citizens being able to visit 31 countries without a visa. Sri Lanka - one of the most beautiful countries in the world, with a thriving tourism sector and expanding holiday market - sadly has the world’s ninth least powerful passport, with holders only able to travel to 39 countries without a visa.

With money, data and knowledge crossing international borders much faster and with greater ease than many

GERMAN PASSPORT HOLDERS CAN VISIT 177 COUNTRIES WITHOUT A VISA

(but frequently overlooked) indicator of bilateral relations between two countries. A passport from a country on good diplomatic terms with its peers is a powerful tool, allowing holders to travel across borders with ease. Last year, Indonesia excluded Australia from a list of 45 countries that enjoyed visa-free entry to the country. Strained relations over the execution of convicted Australian drug traffickers were blamed for this particular exclusion.

Four countries in particular made huge gains this year; Tonga rising 16 spots, Palau by 20, Colombia by 25 and Timor-Leste being the highest climber with an increase of 33 positions.

An Australian passport has moved up to eighth position, with holders able to visit 169 countries without having to obtain a visa prior to arrival. Czech Republic and Hungarian passport holders have moved down two positions, but are

people can, the good news is that a digital passport may well be on the horizon, albeit a long way off. Modern passports already contain chips that compare the holder’s face to the one stored in the passport – this being the technology that enables e-gate entry at the UK border at Heathrow Airport, for instance. So it’s feasible that a chip contained within a smartphone could embed this technology, instead of just representing a document (such as a boarding pass) on a screen. De La Rue, the company that prints British passports and banknotes, is working on a number of new technological possibilities, including paperless passports and travel documents contained within mobile phones. But at this moment in time all such concepts are at the early stages of development, so our little travel booklets will almost certainly be around for a few more years to come.

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No Shoes Required A quick ferry ride from the flash of the Hamptons, Alex Benasuli enjoys the unassuming, quiet sophistication of laid-back vacation haven, Shelter Island, tucked between the north and south forks of Long Island on America's Eastern Seaboard

T

he Hamptons are well known around the world as the weekend and summer playground of New York City’s elite. What fewer people know is that the Hamptons is not just one place, but a collection of distinct hamlets that stretch for 30 miles on the south fork of the eastern end of Long Island, bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and Peconic Bay on the other. Beginning with old establishment Southampton, and ending at very tip with surfer friendly and chilled-out Montauk, the Hamptons also include Bridgehampton, Sag Harbor and East Hampton. The entire area is gorgeous. Sandy beaches go on forever. Town centers date back to pre-American revolutionary times. Thick woods and manicured gardens are abundant in equal measure.

While the displays of wealth have become more obvious in recent years (think fancier cars, bigger houses, better restaurants and more exclusive shopping), there still exist pockets of the laidback and unfussy rural nature of the area that made it so popular to begin with. For those wanting to experience the best of the Hamptons minus the bling, there is a hidden gem, and it’s called Shelter Island.

Getting to Shelter Island necessitates boarding a ferry that crosses Peconic Bay from Long Island’s south and north forks

(www.northferry.com www.southferry.com). Whilst the journey is just ten minutes, the effect it has is immeasurable.

The small degree of separation makes Shelter Island a very special place. Both literally and figuratively, visitors are that much more removed from the real world. If the Hamptons are New York’s playground, then 27.1-square-mile Shelter Island is the Hamptons’ secret and understated garden. From one end of the island to the other is just over three miles. At it’s widest it’s just five miles. However, the island’s highly irregular shape gives way to an abundance of usable waterfront, salt marshes, bay beaches, coves, marinas and creek beds all ripe for discovery, plus two tiny hamlets with restaurants and shops.

With one third of the island occupied by the Mashomack Preserve – a vast tract of unspoiled forested and coastal land, brimming with hiking trails – first timers are usually surprised at how green and wooded the place is. It is in the natural wilds of this sanctuary that one can only imagine what awaited founding father, Nathaniel Sylvester, who purchased rights to the island in 1651 from local Manhasset Indians. His family seat, Sylvester Manor, still exists today as a private residence and educational farm. It wasn't until the late 1800s and early 1900s that Shelter Island began to take

MASHOMACK PRESERVE IMAGE BY KELLI DELANEY KOT 90

THE CHEQUIT

off as a summer retreat. Shelter Island Heights – a historic district on the northern side of the island – is dotted with Victorian and Queen Anne-style wood and shingle cottages, replete with tidy front gardens, decorative window trimmings and screened porches. They are the epitome of cute and charming. Slap bang in the middle of the Heights, and first built as a religious retreat in 1872, is The Chequit. An island institution, the property was transformed into a high-society getaway in the 1940s, and visited by the likes of Frank Sinatra and Marilyn Monroe. Completely made over by its new owners in the past few years, hoteliers Kevin O’Shea and David Bowd (the same guys behind Provincetown’s beautiful Salt House Inn), the minimal 37-room refuge of whitewashed rooms bathed in natural light and dotted with characterful touches is perfect for dreamy jaunts and lazy afternoons on the generous second-floor porch, gazing over the town and harbour beyond (www.thechequit.com). Just around the corner from The Chequit, is Shelter Island Heights Pharmacy, housed in a crisp Gothic Revival building which first opened its doors in the 1920s, complete with soda fountain and old-fashioned lunch counter open every day except Christmas. A little further on is gourmet food store and café, Marie Eiffel, where you can find everything from made-to-order sandwiches to exquisite French pastries

produced by its on-site Parisian Pâtissier. Posh but low-key summer residents visit Marie Eiffel for morning coffee and newspapers. Position yourself on the porch out back and enjoy the mesmerizing views across the water. The bulletin boards by the entrance are a hive of local info about yoga, pilates, yard sales and other island activities. Shelter Island is essentially a summer beach resort, a place to kick off your shoes and shove your toes in the sand. The bay waters make it ideal for safe swimming, boating and fishing. The island’s beaches have character, dotted with shells, pebbles and sea grasses and there is always something to see, absorb or enjoy.

If you’re after a slightly more upscale beachy home-away-from-home vacation experience, then Sunset Beach is the answer. Owned by smart, international hotelier, André Balazs - the same proprietor as the fabled Chateau Marmont in LA, the Mercer in NYC and London’s Chiltern Firehouse - Sunset Beach is one of the Hamptons’ perennial hotspots, renowned for its buzzy and fashionable bar, restaurant and boutique. Spiritually Sunset Beach is more St. Tropez than American Eastern Seaboard. Its restaurant is spread across two floors, in a series of indoor and partially outdoor spaces directly facing one of the island’s longer sandy beaches, and the best spot from which to watch the sunset

SUNSET BEACH

(the hint is in the name). The food is Mediterranean-inspired and complimented by a raw bar serving local shellfish and lobster. In the dappled light, filtering through artfully positioned lanterns and torches, listening to groovy beats, looking out to boats bobbing on the bay and mingling with the Hamptons’ party set, you really do feel like you could be somewhere a little more exotic. Only on such an intimate island could so smooth a vibe be pulled off so perfectly.

Sunset Beach’s accommodation is located within a cleverly reimagined 1960s motel. All twenty simply yet tastefully decorated rooms face the water. There is an outdoor games area with ping pong tables and pétanque. Kayaking, sailing, paddleboarding and tennis are on hand. Or the beach concierge can set you up for a day on the sand. Between the scenery, people watching, activities and one of the best bars and restaurants in the Hamptons, guests generally want for nothing. At Sunset Beach you can transition from barefoot beach to evening cocktails by merely adding a shirt and some accessories (www.sunsetbeachli.com).

Shelter Island boasts a variety of quality dining options, all easily reachable. Relaxed, country chic Vine Street Café is arguably one the island’s best, renowned for its bouillabaisse, line-caught local swordfish, homemade pastas and excellent

wine list. Whilst Ram’s Head Inn – connected to the island by a scenic causeway – serves New American cuisine in a handsome period building facing a private cove. Of course you can always go to the local fish market and bag locally caught lobster, flounder and muscles, and then head to one of the many roadside farm stands for sweet corn and fresh veggies to cook up your own feast.

Most visitors do not feel the need to explore off the isle, Shelter Island being the down-to-earth antidote to hectic lifestyles and the more showy Hamptons. Here life kicks down a few gears, moves across to the slow lane and revolves around the multitude of activities that take advantage of the beautiful scenery all around. It’s the kind of place you can slip into a bathing suit and flip-flops and stay that way all day.

Sitting on the beach, enjoying the gentle sea breezes and watching a sailing regatta in the distance is just part of what make the island so special. At night, particularly when the moon is full, people return to the beach to build small bonfires and nibble on impromptu picnics. Don’t be afraid to join in.

Shelter Island is a place to disconnect and recharge and so everyone’s mood is friendly, chilled and celebratory. It’s about simple pleasures and enjoying the company of loved ones, and this is the way Shelter Islanders plan to keep it.

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Cleanse, breathe, nourish, repeat. Nicholas Chrisostomou makes this his mantra during his mountain-top maiden detox in Switzerland's luxury alpine resort town of St. Moritz The words ‘retreat’, ‘wellness’ and ‘detox’ seem to be banded about a little too sparingly by the hospitality industry these days, the latter two especially. Too many resorts are mislabeled as wellness destinations with barely a decent spa to boot, let alone health-conscious menus, appropriately trained staff or any of the essential facilities a true wellness retreat must surely posses to qualify. The same goes for the word ‘detox’. I don't profess to be an expert on the subject, and had never so much as cleansed my digestive system before, but as I understand it, detoxing isn't just about abstaining from alcohol, having a colonic or swapping your daily caffeine fix for herbal teas, although some hotels would have you believe that following these steps alone will gain you a lifetime membership to the eternal fountain of youth. If only.

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SPOTLIGHT

I

must admit that I didn't much research the market or prepare myself in any way for my maiden detox, other than to blitz Superdry for some hiking boots and sportswear basics, and stock-up with Hendrick's and a carrier bag full of chocolates, Haribo and Pringles. I always say that it pays to be prepared, and let's face it; I had no real idea of what I had let myself in for. But I was committed to detox. My normal life tends to consist of an awful lot of flying, staying in hotels, eating hearty meals often at irregular hours, doing less exercise than a man of my age should, drinking alcohol - occasionally too much,

meeting clients, relying on coffee as a propellant, working long hours at a computer and very rarely getting 8-hours sleep. I was prime detox material, or so I had been told in the past.

I flew into Milan’s Malpensa and was met by Andrea, a friendly, smartly suited chap from Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains. First impressions really are everything. My luggage was loaded into a shiny new BMW X5 SUV, and I was whisked out of Italy, into Switzerland and up towards St. Moritz, the world famous alpine playground of the rich and famous. At this juncture I must admit that detoxing in

OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR Free hotel shuttle upon request Via Dimlej 52, CH-7500 St. Moritz

«Swiss Mountain Family Hotel with the Best View of St. Moritz»

WELCOME TO MEIEREI ST. MORITZ Pure nature – at the Meierei the landscape takes centre stage. The hotel is surrounded by a lerch forest and a spectacular scenery with the best view of the lake and the skyline of St. Moritz. At this wonderful haven you will definitely find peaceful rest and the centre of St. Moritz is only a 15min short walk away along the stunning lake promenade. This little gem has 22 country-style rooms with contemporary Engadine design and a modern spa area with steam room, whirlpool and finnish sauna.

The new culinary concept by renowned Swiss chef Reto Mathis focuses on local, regional and organic products.

How about a sizzling BBQ? For our guests we serve local delicacies fresh off the grill on the sun terrace.

FOR RESERVATIONS T +41 81 838 70 00, WWW.MEIEREI.CH

St. Moritz was a big part of the draw. I’m not a skier, but I’d been told numerous times that the scenery in the Swiss Alps was spectacular, and I’ve always been of the opinion that few things are as good for oneself as high quality fresh air. What I didn't realise until we began our ascent, was how divinely scenic the drive would be. Andrea was charming and informative, set a polite tone from the get-go and was happy to park up at Chiavenna, a gorgeous little unspoilt Italian town, close to the border. We sat at a pavement café, sipped wine and drank coffee. And I bought two bottles of very fine Barolo, just in case. Then we continued our journey. Our next stop was the waterfalls of Acquafraggia, in Piuro, Valchiavenna, located within a still relatively wild corner of Bregaglia. Kids were playing in the River Mera below the falls and young lovers were lying in the sun on its banks. The spot was just lovely and we could have easily spent the afternoon there, but onwards and upwards we went, St. Moritz our next stop. By now my companion and I were relaxed, in good spirits and felt like we were on a bit of an adventure. The next hour or so was spent winding up steep, twisting mountain roads and gazing across serene lakes, until we reached our destination, late afternoon.

The genuinely warm and friendly welcome we received

at Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains said everything about the established five-star resort hotel. It was obvious from the outset that the staff was proud of their property. We were met by Ljiljana Matic - the hotel’s spa director and architect of the detox program we were about to embark upon - herself a picture of health and vitality. Over a glass of wine she ran through the plan for the next five days and we completed a few simple forms. Nothing felt clinical, there were no people in white coats hovering around us and our luggage wasn't checked for hooch!

Because we were detoxing, we were accommodated in spacious connected suites in the main building, boasting direct mountain views, immediately above the hotel’s spa by www.resensespas.com. Staying a short lift ride and a few dozen paces away from where we would be having our detox treatments and morning yoga proved to be a godsend. Veuve Clicquot was delivered to our rooms (my companion drank hers - mine was still in the fridge post detox) and our ‘last supper’ was a healthy, three-course pre-detox dinner, which included some skinless chicken and white fish, washed down with a decent bottle of plonk.

We were told that the serious business of detoxing would start the next morning. And so it did...

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 97

Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains’ detox in the mountains program is based around a series of six, Swiss cold-pressed organic juices per day, produced by www.fitntasty.ch, one to be drunk every two hours in a suggested sequence, starting with a lemon and ginger drink designed to provide fuel in the mornings. The juices were freshly made and delivered to us the previous evening, and were supplemented by three, raw vegan meals per day at normal times, plus as much herbal or fruit tea and water as we wanted. Each of us was also given a jar of dried fruits and raw nuts to fight hunger cravings.

On the first morning our body mass index (BMI) and basal metabolic rate (BMR) were measured, and the same would happen at the end of the detox. To be honest the first day wasn’t as tough as I’d imagined it would be. The lemon and ginger juice was a tad sharp but easily watered-down.

The biggest problem I had on day one was getting myself into a basic seated yoga pose, but our instructor, Ivonne Mazzel, was gentle and patient, and as we progressed through the detox program, the morning stretching sessions really set us up for the day. After yoga we met the hotel’s activities concierge, Wolfgang Hoffman, who was bursting with enthusiasm to show us the best of Engadin the long alpine valley region in the eastern Swiss Alps, in 98

the middle of which St. Moritz is located.

The high valley of the Engadin, with its wonderfully varied network of trails, is heaven for hikers, amateurs and the more experienced alike. The contrasts between gently sloping hills draped with lush alpine meadows, mountain streams, mighty glaciers, towering snow-capped peaks and sparkling lakes is breathtaking, and I was completely bewitched by the surroundings on my first day outdoors.

Even writing about the scenery gives me goose bumps now – it really was that stunning. The best way to explore this unspoiled landscape is on foot – whether hiking along one of the hundreds of panoramic trails, or walking along pristine lakes. From the first morning when we took a cable car up to Signalbahn, and made our way down on foot, through forests and meadows towards the hotel, I was hooked by the place. Perhaps this was because I get out ‘n’ about so rarely in my hectic life, or more likely because the scenery was so beautiful. The abundance of outdoor activity options, combined with the luxe treatments so professionally lavished upon us in the hotel’s sprawling alpine-style spa, made for the perfect detox environment.

Had one or other of these five elements been missing – the Swiss mountain scenery, the outdoor activities, the detox spa treatments, the beautifully-presented raw vegan meals

or the fresh juices – I would almost certainly have fallen off the detox wagon the very first night, and attacked the stash of chocolate and Pringles which was locked in my room safe. But despite having chilled champagne in my fridge and a bottle of Hendrick’s on the counter-top looking at me every day, not once while detoxing was I tempted to deviate from the plan. I was determined.

Yoga on day two was a little easier, more familiar, but of the entire program this was the day that I had the least energy and felt a little fuzzy at times. I wasn’t weak, I just felt different, like I was going through some sort of metabolic change. We still got outside, walked, standup paddle boarded on Lake St. Moritz in the glorious sunshine, and I had a divine detox massage in the spa. But day two was the hardest of all.

By day three the juices were working their magic, I barely needed to eat, I was thinking much more clearly, I had a spring in my step and I just wanted to get outside and do stuff - literally anything as long as I was in the fresh air being active. This Nicholas was unrecognizable to my companion, who spent more time in the spa being exfoliated and caressed, while I was in the forest or stomping around outdoors somewhere.

On the morning of day four I was able to contort my

body into all manner of yoga positions, and I felt like I’d been injected with the blood of a newborn baby, so clear was my head and so high were my energy levels. I couldn’t remember the last time I had felt so alive and energized. So rejuvenated was I, that literally nothing could stop me from paragliding off a 3,000m mountain dragging my hesitant companion with me. And when we horse trekked around the idyllic Lake Staz I was positively infuriated that we weren’t allowed to trot let alone canter!

The highlight of all the spa treatments I enjoyed, was a one-hour advanced medical-grade skin care treatment, called a HydraFacial (favored by the likes of Kate Winslet and Beyoncé), after which my face was sparkling and glowing. A fitting end to an incredible detox experience during which my mind, body and soul were cleansed, my heath regime was re-booted, my skin was revived and I lost two kilos. Most importantly, I left Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains with a more positive attitude towards my health and fitness, more consideration for my body, and a better awareness of what and when to eat – a new norm which is set to continue for the foreseeable future. www.kempinski.com/en/st-moritz/grand-hotel-des-bains Detox reservations spa.grandhoteldesbains@kempinski.com

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TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Nicholas Chrisostomou takes a look around Sri Lanka’s 16th century Galle Fort, after spending a few nights relaxing by the sea at Unawatuna beach

S

ri Lanka is one of those destinations either raved about by your kids' twenty-something backpacking pals, or lusted after by the super health conscious for its plentiful yoga retreats and Ayurvedic spas. Yet for the cultured or frequent traveller, the beauty of Sri Lanka lies not solely in its spas, but in its proximity to the Middle East and Asia, for in around four hours flying time, you can feel the island’s warmth, character, and take advantage of the abundance of affordable luxury the nation has to offer. Sri Lanka ticks all the boxes for a long weekend away, or if jetting-in from further afield, a week of pampering, authentic experiences and delectable fare.

There was no crazy scrum at the airport when we arrived in Colombo. Yes, landing at Bandaranaike is a little jolt to the senses for even the well travelled, and as we exited the terminal the pavements were overflowing with locals. But patiently packed together like sardines, they left a narrow lane between them for passengers to slip through – “patiently” being the operative word here, since the din of

traffic policemen's whistles combined with the honking of horns was far more intrusive than the hundreds of people waiting calmly and sedately for their loved ones to emerge from the terminus. Welcome to Sri Lanka, a country of tremendous and charming contrasts, populated by some of the kindest, calmest and most genuine people in Asia. A people who’d sooner please tourists in any way possible, rather than annoy or pester. In this way, the welcome visitors generally receive when landing on this 140 mile-wide Indian Ocean isle is different in innumerable ways to the rest of the region.

Our driver didn’t rabbit incessantly during the drive South, instead furnishing us with pillows and bottled water so that we could rest, while he deftly steered our air-conditioned mini-bus through the chaotic traffic, towards the calm we hoped was awaiting us at the other end. Once safely ensconced in our hotel, no one knocked on the door asking if we wanted our room cleaned, refreshed or fluffed-up. Instead they waited patiently close-by until needed, upon which our 102

requests were attended to efficiently and politely, after which they vanished as if by magic. From privately owned vacation houses to chic boutique hotels, and sprawling beachfront estates to super-luxe five-star resorts, this furtive yet attentive, warm and personal service is commonplace throughout Sri Lanka and is what makes holidaying here so easy and pleasant.

In 1640 the Dutch landed at Unawatuna, 5 kilometres south east of Galle. After capturing Galle, they built houses for their officials in Unawatuna. These days, it’s a lively beach party town with a colourful selection of shops, resorts and small hotels, and swimming, sunbaking and surfing the most popular pastimes. I first discovered Kingfisher when expat friends took me there for dinner, boasting (as locals often do) that it served “the best food on the bay”. They weren’t wrong.

The freshly caught line fish was cooked to perfection and dropped off the bone, local dishes were unpretentious and not overly spiced, I sipped a delectable South African Sauvignon Blanc and dined with my feet in the sand. From

the get go it was obviously very much a barefoot zone. When I found out that Kingfisher had bedrooms, I decided right then that I would stay on my next visit to Sri Lanka.

Being a guest at Kingfisher is like staying at a friend’s place familiar, comfortable and stress free. I left my things lying around like a big kid and nothing was too much trouble for the active bunch of smiling Sri Lankan boys, in their crisp white polo shirts, attending to guests’ needs at lightning speed. Kingfisher has just four bedrooms, each one of which has direct sea views, with the Indian Ocean barely 50 metres away from their private balconies. Basic mod cons are provided, including an oversized walk-in shower, decent air con and a large flat screen for those who can’t go without their morning dose of BBC World! But why sleep with the air con on when you can leave the doors ajar and drift off to the soothing sound of the waves? I slept like a baby at Kingfisher, couldn’t get enough of the ginger spice tea in my room, and was content to give caffeine a miss for a few days. On the mornings when I woke early enough to catch the sunrise, it

was like creeping downstairs in a sleeping country house, trying not to wake the dogs or rouse the children. There really is nothing like walking around in bare feet, day and night, to instill in oneself a true sense of vacation, and it came as second nature to not wear shoes at all during my stay at Kingfisher (www.kingfisherunawatuna.com).

After a few days of R&R it was time to venture out of Kingfisher and head to the world heritage site of Galle Fort, fifteen minutes away in the Bay of Galle, close to the island’s southernmost point, 170kms from Colombo along Sri Lanka’s southwest coast. Built in 1588 by the Portuguese and fortified by the Dutch during the 17th century, Galle Fort was the main port of call for ships sailing between the East and Europe. This historical jewel (which thankfully survived the devastating tsunami of 2004), defended by thick stone walls with the endless ocean on one side, is now UNESCO protected, and just one word is sufficient to describe visiting this unique location - atmospheric - with Dutch and English colonial styles evident everywhere, especially in the deep verandahs of

Welcome to Sri Lanka, a country of tremendous and charming contrasts, populated by some of the kindest, calmest and most genuine people in Asia

houses supported by timber or masonry pillars. The fort reached its peak under the rule of the Dutch, providing spacious housing, wide roads and all necessary facilities within its walls, including an intricate sewage system that was ahead of its time. Today the fort’s roads appear to have hardly changed, like the squares of a chessboard crisscrossing at regular intervals, with straight and narrow lanes branching in and out positively inviting in visitors. Had the tuk-tuks and small cars been invisible, it wouldn't have been difficult to imagine that I was on a film set, or had been transported back to the seventeen hundreds.

A number of rather magnificent buildings remain within the fort’s ramparts, mostly all exuding a great degree of old worlde charm. Of the numerous colonial structures, one of the most interesting is the Dutch Reformed Church, containing ornately carved memorials to the original settlers.

Streets dotted with colonial villas, and bijou museums and antique shops displaying curios from the island's bygone era, give way to cutesy shops, independent galleries and upscale boutiques, perfect for stocking-up on Sri Lankan trinkets,

clothing and locally-crafted goods. It’s particularly hard to walk past Church Street’s retailers, especially Barefoot, which sells gorgeous fabrics, authentic art, linen apparels and handmade jewelry all sourced on the island (www.barefootceylon.com). In Exotic Roots I bought a three-wick candle scented with wood and spices, hand poured into a semi-precious silver filigree-edged jar and wrapped in a silk drawstring bag. If the candle hadn’t weighed a kilo I’d have invariably bought more (www.exoticroots.com). Other standout shops include Mimimango (joedenmimimango.com), KK (www.facebook.com/kkcfort/), The Three by TPV (www.thethreebytpv.com) plus state owned gift emporium, Laksana, just outside the fort but very worth a visit (www.laksala.gov.lk).

We rested our shopping legs over lunch at The Fort Printers, which served Mediterranean-inspired seafood on crisp linen tablecloths in a beautifully renovated 18th century building with high ceilings and large windows (www.thefortprinters.com). The Printers (as it’s affectionately October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 105

Had the tuk-tuks and small cars been invisible, it wouldn't have been difficult to imagine that I was on a film set, or had been transported back to the seventeen hundreds

known by locals) also boasts some rather lovely, characterful accommodation at various price points. For a quick shot of caffeine, Pedlar’s Inn Café serves the best Espresso in town.

And one of the best things to do after a day of spending and sightseeing, is to perch atop the fort’s walls and watch a beautiful sunset, cocktail in hand.

The fort is home to a selection of beautiful, deluxe hotels and villas, many of which are privately owned and operated, making for a personal and tailored stay experience. Galle Fort Hotel offers large individual rooms, soothing spaces and a welcoming bar, slap bang in the centre of town, surrounded by colonial buildings, boutiques and a smattering of restaurants, yet just a few minutes walk from the coastline.

There’s little to do here but relax and adapt to the slower pace of life. Ground floor rooms open directly onto the tranquil, secluded sub-tropical garden oasis and swimming pool. For me Garden Room 3 was perfect. Luxuriating by Galle Fort Hotel’s pool was bliss, the absence of sand for a few afternoons a welcome respite from the beaches (www.galleforthotel.com).

At the pinnacle of Galle Fort’s accommodation ladder is Amangalla, reputedly Asia's oldest hotel having operated continuously since 1865. Housed in a former governor’s mansion, Amangalla is the area’s most famous hotel and an unbeatably luxurious and laid-back place to stay, eat and just ‘be’. Amangalla Spa - located within a row of whitewashed knocked-through shops - has a calm, verging on church-like feel and is the best retreat within the fort to relax, kick-back and be pampered in style (www.amanresorts.com/amangalla).

There are very few original, inhabited forts in the world, which haven’t either been completely overrun by tourist traps, or ruined by unsightly modern buildings, which wreck their authentic settings. A stunning living, breathing and flourishing heritage site - just a few hours drive from the country’s capital - no visit to Sri Lanka is complete without spending time within the charismatic ramparts of Galle Fort, undoubtedly the best-preserved sea fort in South Asia.

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 107

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TASTE &SIP REVIEW

ROUX AT THE LANDAU LONDON Food Atmosphere

D

ecades ago London was the culinary laughing stock of the gastronomic world. Stodgy cuisine, shoddy service and uninspired dining experiences were the norm.

Now however, London proudly takes it place as a global culinary capital. A dynamism, diversity and buzz permeates the London restaurant scene that continues to dazzle and surprise. Restaurant institutions such as the The Wolseley, J Sheekey and Scott’s now vie with newer but similarly established entrants like Bocca di Lupo, Gymkhana, and Chiltern Firehouse to offer consistently superior experiences that combine great cuisine and fun. The food scene has become much more representative of the melting pot that London is. South Asian, Italian, Middle Eastern, Japanese and Peruvian are just an abbreviated list of the global cuisines currently on offer in the British capital at very high standards.

Gentrified Shoreditch in the East End and centrally-located Soho, Fitzrovia and Marylebone have paved the way for numerous successful new restaurant openings, as London

MICHEL ROUX JR

has become more exciting to visit than ever before.

UK-based and globally renowned celebrity chefs including Marco Pierre White, Heston Blumenthal, Gordon Ramsay and Yotam Ottolenghi continue to leave their culinary mark on the city and raise London’s restaurant profile. Having always been a world-class city in terms of museums, galleries, theatre, fashion and shopping, London can now be considered truly world class in its culinary offerings as well.

The Roux brothers, Albert and Michel, are French émigrés to the United Kingdom. They opened Le Gavroche on Lower Sloane Street in Mayfair almost 50 years ago and later opened Waterside Inn in Berkshire. Their culinary pioneering took London and British restaurants to much higher levels. In 1974, Le Gavroche became the first restaurant in the UK to receive a Michelin star, in 1977 the first to receive two stars and in 1982, the first to receive three. It excels at classic French cooking. Albert’s son, Michel Jr, trained at both Le Gavroche 110 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

and the Waterside Inn. When his father, Albert, retired in 1991, Michel Jr became the chef de cuisine at Le Gavroche. It should then come as no surprise, that when London’s Langham Hotel were looking to revamp their flagship restaurant, they turned to Albert Roux and Michel Roux Jr to create the elegant Roux at the Landau which opened in 2010.

The Langham was built in the 1860s, represents one of London’s finest examples of Victorian architecture and remains one of the capital’s most exclusive hotels. It is centrally located in a genteel neighbourhood, yet only mere minutes from the art galleries of Mayfair, the luxury boutiques of Bond Street, and bustling Marylebone. The worldwide headquarters of the BBC, Broadcasting House, and the landmark All Souls Church are just across the street. The Langham is the perfect host for Roux and the Landau, at the lower end of Portland Place, in the epicentre of Oxford and Regent Streets with Park Crescent and Regent’s Park beyond.

GRILLED DOVER SOLE

Although one can access the restaurant through the lively lobby of the Langham, Roux at the Landau has its own private entrance off the street. Arriving through the front door is like being greeted at someone’s elegant and inviting private home. There is no immediate sense of theatre or desperate need to impress guests. On the contrary, the front of house experience is calm, professional and welcoming.

The proportions of the space, the décor, and the attentiveness of the staff speak for themselves. The colour palette is soft. The period detailing, including painted wood paneling and soaring ceilings, feels a little Parisian. From the entrance it’s a short walk - past floor-to-ceiling wine stores - to the main dining room.

The large oval dining room is expertly laid out and is a vision of understated elegance. On one side the space is flanked by a curved parade of oversized windows overlooking Portland Place, while on the others there is more wood paneling. During the daytime and early evening,

natural light floods the space. At night the lighting is flawless. Wide plank floors and gold decorative accents help to create both a homely and sophisticated ambience.

Seating is a mix of banquettes around the perimeter and stand alone tables in the center. Roux at the Landau is a restaurant for special occasions or any occasion that you want to make a touch more special, discreet yet grand, or formal without being pretentious. The dress code is smart casual and unstuffy.

While the Roux family excels at opening and sustaining successful restaurants, it is their classic French cooking that remains at their core. At Roux at the Landau, father Albert Roux, his son, Michel Jr along with Head Chef, Oliver Boon, deliver exactly that, but with modern influences using the best British produce. For lunch and dinner, set menus at various price points change with seasons, with the option of wine pairing. In the evenings a tasting menu is also

available. Diners may also order à la carte. Whatever dishes are chosen, guests are in excellent hands. On a recent visit for my birthday, we allowed our knowledgeable waiter to guide us as to how to order and were very pleased with the results. Pink shortbread with salmon mousse was served as an amuse-bouche and freshly baked Comté cheese bread rolls were doled out. I asked for more.

As a starter, I opted for Orkney scallops served with girolle mushrooms and watercress purée. The Orkney Islands, north of Scotland, lie between the Atlantic Ocean and North Sea, allowing for unique tidal currents that create the ideal growing conditions for some of the world’s best scallops.

Their sweetness of the mollusks worked perfectly with the nutty and peppery notes of the girolles. My dining companion selected octopus carpaccio, which was razor thin, succulent and flavourful.

For mains, we both opted for fish – Dover sole and turbot.

They were excellent. In the right hands, as they were at Roux at

RAGOUT OF ENGLISH ASPARAGUS, JERSEY ROYALS, MORELS

the Landau, Dover sole and turbot are the Rolls Royce and Bentley of fish. Both are flat, native to the North Atlantic and famed for their white subtly flavoured meat. The sole was served with herb butter, small clams and a potato crouton, while the turbot came braised, served with white asparagus, morels and Jersey Royals. Jersey Royals are potatoes grown exclusively on the island of Jersey by a mere 20 individual farmers and are prized for their distinctive taste and smaller size. If French cooking has a weakness, it is perhaps the over use of cream sauces and butter, but this was not the case here.

Our desserts were also perfectly executed. Maple ice cream and salted pecans complimented a bitter chocolate mille-feuille. A Grand Marnier Soufflé, accented with hints of orange marmalade, was served with a rich chocolate sorbet submerged in its center. The result was pure heaven.

Scrumptious petit fours arrived with tea and coffee. Once again, I asked for more. Food and service were faultless throughout.

The hidden gem of Roux at the Landau is Postillion, its intimate private dining room, located just off the main entrance. With a seated capacity of eighteen and standing for 35, it is the perfect private space for a special birthday, wedding, anniversary or festive meeting. The glamorous contemporary interior was conceived by the renowned, David Collins. Lavender upholstered seating adds a splash of style to the graceful room. High ceilings and large windows dominate the space. Understandably, Postillion is much in demand.

Lovely is a word that is used often in British English. In the truest sense of the word, it means something that is exceptionally attractive, beautiful and graceful. It intimates harmony, delight and sublime pleasantness. It is in this manner that Roux at the Landau can be described as truly lovely in every way.

POSTILLION

Roux At The Landau Food: Atmosphere:

Head chef: Oliver Boon Address: 1C Portland Place, London W1B 1JA, UK Telephone: +44 207 636 1000 Email: book@therouxatthelandau.com Website: www.rouxatthelandau.com Cuisine: French Opening hours: Mon - Fri 07:00 -10:30, 12:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 22:30 Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 17:30 - 22:30 Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 15:00

Lunch price: 3-course set lunch GBP 39 or GBP 47 inc. half bottle wine.

Dinner price: Tasting menu GBP 70 or GBP 120 with wine pairing.

Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Children: Welcome. High chairs available. No kids menu.

Credit Cards: All major Parking: Valet GBP 35 Reviewed by Alex Benasuli for dinner on 28 July 2016.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

112 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

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TASTE &SIP INTERVIEW

MICHEL ROUX JR

IMAGES BY ISSY CROKER

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER INTERVIEWS THE MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF ABOUT LE GAVROCHE TURNING 50, THE LONDON RESTAURANT SCENE, MARATHON RUNNING AND COOKING AT HOME

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COOKING AND RUNNING RESTAURANTS ARE IN YOUR BLOOD. AT WHAT JUNCTURE DID YOU REALISE IT WAS YOUR PASSION? I was always in the kitchen as a child, watching my father cook, as well as my mother, who is also an absolutely fantastic cook, so my passion grew from there really.

Actually I was very nearly born on the kitchen table! Even as a small child, my father would make me try a wine or sample a cheese, and so gastronomy is genuinely in my blood. There wasn’t a definitive moment that I can point to, it’s just something I always knew I wanted to do.

DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST MEAL OR DISH THAT AWAKENED YOUR PALETTE? My father’s hand churned vanilla ice cream.

I’ll never forget it and I’ve never had ice cream that tastes so good ever since!

WHEN IT WAS OPENED IN 1967 BY YOUR FATHER, ALBERT, AND UNCLE, MICHEL, LE GAVROCHE REVOLUTIONISED FINE DINING IN LONDON. YOU WERE SEVEN YEARS OLD WHEN THE RESTAURANT OPENED AND OSTENSIBLY GREW UP AS IT CONTINUED TO ACHIEVE SUCCESS. WHAT WAS THAT LIKE AND WHAT VALUES DID IT LEAVE YOU WITH? As you say, I was only seven when the restaurant opened and that was a very long time ago! I’d pop in to say hello but wasn’t fully aware of what was going on. I remember being enthralled by the hustle and bustle of the kitchen. As I grew older and understood what a culinary landmark my father and uncle had created, what was clear was the absolute importance of hard work and passion. To make a real success of anything you have to be entirely dedicated.

LE GAVROCHE HAS BEEN CONSISTENTLY RANKED AS ONE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN LONDON. WHY DO YOU THINK THIS REMAINS THE CASE AND WHAT, IN YOUR OPINION, IS THE SECRET OF ITS SUCCESS? We are celebrating our 50th birthday next year and we are as busy as ever. What is

so special about Le Gavroche is that we have never apologised for sticking to our classic French roots, and people appreciate that. Of course the dishes have changed slightly to suit a more modern palate, but our service style, décor, and the heart of each dish remains the same. That’s actually becoming rarer and rarer, especially in London.

AT THE AGE OF 19 YOU JOINED THE TEAM AT LE GAVROCHE. WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO ENTER THE FAMILY BUSINESS AT SUCH A YOUNG AGE AND WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? I left school at sixteen and joined Le Gavroche three years later after I’d completed an apprenticeship with Maître Patissier Hellegouarch in Paris. Mastering the fundamentals of French pastry, as many great chefs will tell you, is the best way to start in the cookery business. Once you have mastered that, you can conquer anything!

WHAT ADVICE DID YOUR FATHER GIVE YOU WHEN YOU TOOK OVER THE HELM OF LE GAVROCHE IN 1993?

My father’s advice to me has always been, ‘listen to Albert Roux.’

THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP WAS STARTED SOME 30 YEARS AGO AS A WAY, IN PART, TO GIVE BRITISH-BORN CHEFS THE EXPERIENCE AND GUIDANCE NEEDED TO GROW INTO EXCEPTIONAL CHEFS. HOW HAS THE FOCUS OF THE SCHOLARSHIP EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS, AND IN WHAT DIRECTION DO YOU SEE IT GOING? The Roux Scholarship is now in the hands of my cousin Alain Roux and myself. We may tweak it in the future – it may not necessarily stay true to hard-core Escoffier recipes but it will definitely always include classic cooking techniques.

Mastering the fundamentals of French pastry, as many great chefs will tell you, is the best way to start in the cookery business

WITH OVER 40 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN THE KITCHEN, VARIOUS MICHELIN STARS, AND COUNTLESS JUDGING ROLES IN CULINARY COMPETITIONS, WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT QUALITIES THAT MAKE A GREAT CHEF STANDOUT FROM A GOOD CHEF? More than anything a great chef must absolutely and universally love what he does. Whatever style you choose to cook, stay dedicated, never stop learning and never stop asking questions.

HAVE YOU EVER HAD TO DIG DEEP INSIDE TO OVERCOME ADVERSITY? PLEASE SHARE WITH OUR READERS ANY WORDS OF WISDOM REGARDING PERSEVERANCE AND SUSTAINING LONGEVITY. Le Gavroche as a restaurant has gone through a lot of adversity, recessions and depressions, not to mention the IRA bombings. What’s important though is to stay positive and continue to strive to attain absolute culinary excellence.

And, zmost importantly, always ensure that your guests constantly come first.

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THE CELEBRITY CHEF HAS BECOME A SOMETHING OF A TREND IN THE GASTRONOMIC WORLD OF TODAY. DO YOU THINK IT HAS IT GONE TOO FAR? DOES IT MAKE FOR ADVANCING STANDARDS AND BETTER OVERALL RESTAURANT EXPERIENCES? AND ARE THERE ANY DOWNSIDES TO ALL THE MEDIA FRENZY SURROUNDING CHEF AND COOKING COMPETITIONS? I have always said that I am a kitchen chef first, and television is an addition to my day job. When it comes to celebrity chefs and TV, anything that gets people excited about cooking from scratch, and learn to love food or rediscover food, is a good thing. However, TV can glorify the chef and put us on a pedestal. I do worry about that, because it can sometimes bring young people into our industry for the wrong reasons.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE AN EMERGING CHEF TODAY? Stay focused, and always, always take plenty of notes.

WHEN IS THE RIGHT TIME FOR AN EMERGING CHEF TO STRIKE OUT ON HIS OR HER OWN AND OPEN THEIR OWN RESTAURANT? It’s very difficult to say. Running a restaurant isn’t just about being a great chef, you also have to have a very good understanding of business. So many restaurants close down too quickly because the business plan just wasn’t quite right. A successful chef knows his or her weaknesses as well as their strengths.

AS A FRENCHMAN BORN IN THE UK WITH EXTENSIVE WORK AND PERSONAL EXPERIENCE IN BOTH COUNTRIES, WHAT DO YOU DRAW UPON AS THE BEST OF EACH CULTURE? Manchester United and Eric Cantona – the best of both worlds! In all seriousness, at its heart my cooking style will always be classically French, since it’s in my blood!

However the produce that can be sourced in Britain is absolutely world-class.

YOU ARE AN ACCOMPLISHED MARATHON RUNNER. WHAT HAS TRAINING FOR MARATHONS TAUGHT YOU ABOUT YOUR CHOSEN PROFESSION AND VICE-A-VERSA? It’s all about dedication and willpower. Some days in the kitchen or whilst I’m in training, I feel full of energy and joy and so it’s easy. On other days not so much, but the willpower to get on with it and do it to my best ability applies to both cooking in a professional kitchen and training, since both are very physically challenging.

together. Fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, salads, plus some meat, fish or cheese. Pasta also often features at home. I’m lucky that my wife, Giselle, is a wonderful cook and knows what I like. In terms of comfort food, you can’t beat a good roast chicken.

HOW HAS THE LONDON RESTAURANT SCENE EVOLVED OVER THE DECADES? WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CURRENT CHEFS IN LONDON DO DIFFERENTLY THAN IN OTHER CITIES? London is a melting pot of gastronomy. You can travel the culinary world via London’s restaurants and the capital’s residents are thoroughly spoilt when eating out.

Over the years, Londoners have really developed a passion and dedication for food, and they seem to spend increasingly more time and money eating than doing anything else!

APART FROM YOU OWN RESTAURANTS, WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO DINE OUT? If I’m staying local to home in Clapham, I like Trinity, Bistro Union, May the Fifteenth and Gastro. They all serve fantastic food and service always comes with a smile. If it’s an occasion, I like L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, The Ritz, and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. All three all superb examples of restaurants which serve high quality French cuisine in London.

What is so special about Le Gavroche is that we have never apologised for sticking to our classic French roots, and people appreciate that

CAN FRENCH FOOD EVER BE LOW FAT, HEALTH CONSCIOUS AND STILL TASTE GOOD? Of course! Yes we use a lot of butter and cream in French cooking but its soul is great produce cooked simply, and “All in moderation”, as they say. I have written a cookbook for those interested in getting fit - The Marathon Chef - but the recipes are not all French.

IS THERE SUCH A THING AS ENGLISH OR BRITISH CUISINE? WHAT DO YOU THINK GREAT BRITAIN EXCELS AT CULINARY WISE? What I love so much about Britain is the mix of cultures and how much that has affected the way we eat. Of course there are fantastic British staples like wonderful pies, fish and chips, etc. Londoners are especially obsessed with food, and because of that the way we eat out and at home have changed dramatically over the years. What we excel at is bringing cultures together, and sampling the best of everything.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO COOK AT HOME FOR FRIENDS AND FAMILY, AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD? When I’m at home I like to keep it as simple as possible, and cook as a family because it’s fun and brings us all 118

IF YOU WERE TO WRITE AN “INSIDER’S GUIDE TO LONDON” WHAT WOULD YOU INCLUDE? Go running in Hyde Park, head to Albert Bridge for the view, check out The Dairy in Clapham, get to Billingsgate market in the early hours of the morning and continue to explore.

Most of London’s best bits are hidden away and must be uncovered to be enjoyed.

WHERE IN THE WORLD DO YOU MOST LIKE TO UNWIND AND RELAX, AND WHEN THERE DO YOU STILL PREFER TO COOK? My family home in France, not far from Lyon, is my favourite place to relax. We are a big family of chefs, so we all pitch in with the cooking and it becomes something of an event. When I’m travelling overseas I like to discover local restaurants, since I feel it’s the best way to get to know a new area.

TASTE &SIP THE FOOD

ICED RED BERRY SOUFFLÉ FROM LE GAVROCHE COOKBOOK BY MICHEL ROUX JR

INGREDIENTS 1kg mixed berries (e.g. strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackcurrants), + extra to decorate 4 egg whites 400g caster sugar Juice of 1 lemon 500ml water 80ml whipping cream

METHOD Hull and, if necessary, wash the fruit. Blend with 150g of the sugar, then pass through a fine sieve and add lemon juice to heighten the taste if required. Prepare 10 individual soufflé dishes (9cm diameter x 6cm deep) by tying a piece of greaseproof paper around the edge to form a collar that stands 5cm above the rim.

Put the egg whites into the bowl of an electric mixer. In a perfectly clean saucepan, dissolve the remaining 250g of sugar in the water over low heat. When the sugar as completely dissolved, bring to the boil, skim off the foam and cook to 120C / 250F on a sugar thermometer. Beat the egg whites until foamy, then, with the whisk still running, pour the hot sugar directly on the egg whites, avoiding the beaters. Continue beating until the meringue is cool.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold into the fruit pulp. Delicately fold in the meringue, then spoon into the prepared soufflé dishes. Freeze for 12 hours.

Decorate with fresh berries and, if you like, serve with a sauce made by pureeing 500g berries with 100g caster sugar, sharpening the taste with a little lemon juice.

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TASTE &SIP THE FOOD

SOFT BOILED EGG WITH SMOKED SALMON, ASPARAGUS TIPS & CAVIAR FROM LE GAVROCHE COOKBOOK BY MICHEL ROUX JR

INGREDIENTS 30 small asparagus tips 4 slices of smoked salmon 2 tablespoons double cream 2 tablespoons horseradish relish 4 eggs 120g sevruga caviar Olive oil 12 round brioche bread toasts (1cm thick, 3-5cm wide)

METHOD 1. Peel the asparagus and trim to 4cm lengths 2. Cook in boiling salted water until just tender (5-7 minutes), then immediately refresh in ice-cold water and drain 3. Cut the smoked salmon into 18 rounds, using a cutter the same diameter as the brioche 4. Whip the cream and add the horseradish relish 5. Cook the eggs in boiling water for 3 ½ minutes, hold under cold running water for 10 second and then peel while still hot 6. Put the eggs into a warm dish and break them up with a fork (the yolks should be runny and the whites solid) 7. Season with a little pepper and gently fold in the caviar 8. Reheat the asparagus in boiled salted water, drain and roll in a little olive oil to make them glossy To assemble, put a small dollop of horseradish cream in the centre of each plate, then a smoked salmon round, more horseradish and then the lightly toasted brioche slice. Repeat the layers to ďŹ nish with two brioches and three smoked salmon rounds on each plate. Arrange the asparagus on top and spoon the egg and caviar mixture around.

TASTE &SIP

NEWCOMER LA PETITE MAISON BEIRUT

On the edge of Old Nice, a short walk from the famous Promenade des Anglais, Nicholas Rubi’s orginal La Petite Maison is now a local institution and arguably the Riviera's most coveted restaurant, serving a well-heeled set of glittering regulars, politicians, actors, models and public alike. Rubi goes to great lengths to ensure that each guest enjoys the same high standard of service. It's even written on the walls, “Everyone's famous here", and since expanding the brand beyond the South of France, highly respected international restaurateur, Arjun Waney, has maintained this mantra, making La Petite Maison a contemporary French gastronomic destination in London and Dubai, set to open in Miami and Abu Dhabi by the end of 2017. What brings-in diners again and again is food of a consistently high standard, brisk and attentive service and a buzzing atmosphere. The design of the dining room is undoubtedly core to the success of a LPM restaurant. With 124

its white walls, bright natural light and original, quirky artworks, diners are effectively transported to somewhere along the French Riviera irrespective of which branch they’re frequenting, and LPM outposts boast a rare, bustling energy, brimming with a sense of occasion and an air of anticipation. It’s not just the food - it’s the whole ensemble.

The welcome, the bar, the vibrant dining room, classic French cuisine, good-looking staff, and last but not least, the people watching. So it was hardly surprising that LPM Beirut didn’t quite take off in its first location - a somewhat hidden-away, elongated first floor restaurant within a hotel, with no sense of arrival and limited people watching possibilities. The Lebanese love to eat and hugely enjoy the sense of occasion dressing-up and arriving to dine affords them. Take that away and you delete one of the main reasons many residents of Beirut go out to eat at all.

In it’s swanky new street–level location - within a

modern building edged by the restaurant quarter, between Starco and Beirut Souk - LPM is now as easily accessible as is its sister restaurants – and in close proximity to the city’s downtown heart. This is where LPM Beirut should have been all along – right in the upscale downtown thick of the Lebanese capital, within a stone’s throw of the designer shopping and financial hub.

Inspired by its South of France heritage, the open-plan high-ceilinged interior of the 90-seater dining room is crisp, chic and understated, with warm caramel-coloured leather armchairs beckoning you to sit. This is a restaurant that invites you in to lounge, eat, laugh and enjoy, and if you start an evening at LPM Beirut with a cocktail at the handcrafted brass bar (as The Cultured Traveller did), you may never make it to your table, such is the warm and friendly nature of its mixologists and the command of the dining room from atop a bar stool.

Daytime diners are bathed in floods of natural daylight courtesy of huge floor-to-ceiling glass-curtain windows, whilst the gaze of evening guests is drawn towards the restaurant’s eclectic, handpicked art collection, hanging all around. Curated by Bob Ramchand, it provides a veritable feast for the eyes, and includes pieces by Youssef Aoun, El Habre and Jean Boghossian, as well as works by talented younger artists, including fast-rising painter, Yasmina Nysten.

Coupled with the fine, exquisitely-presented Nicoise-inspired cuisine courtesy of chef patron Raphael Duntoye, and under the guidance of attentive and highly affable general manager Yannick Chaloyard, La Petite Maison Beirut, in its new incarnation, is undoubtedly here to stay, with few restaurants in the Middle East’s most cosmopolitan metropolis able to match its unique mélange of food and art.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.lpmbeirut.com

OMAR PUENTE

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music& NIGHT LIFE THE CULTURED TRAVELLER INTERVIEWED THE MUCH-CELEBRATED, GENTLE YET CHARISMATIC CUBAN-BORN VIOLINIST AND JAZZ MUSICIAN, ABOUT GROWING UP IN CUBA, STUDYING MUSIC IN HAVANA, PERFORMING AROUND WORLD AND HIS NEW ALBUM, BEST FOOT FORWARD

You were born in 1962, just after the Cuban Revolution, your father a doctor and your mother a nurse. What do you recall of growing-up in that interesting time?

I remember there was always music playing at home, from classical to pop. Being educated was an important part of the revolution, and my parents encouraged me to learn music. My Dad bought me a toy violin when I was about 5 years old, which I loved and always played, along with other toy instruments that I rarely put down back then.

I recall on my way to and from music school every day, in Santiago de Cuba, I had to pass in front of the house of the Trova, a group of musicians earning their living by singing and playing the guitar. Trova musicians, including the famous Compay Segundo, gathered at Casa de la Trova, sang traditional songs, were very important in the evolution of Cuban popular music, and me hearing them was very much a part of my early musical education.

What attracted you to music as a child in Cuba?

I was always surrounded by music. My father played violin and my aunt played piano so music was always on the menu!

You began playing the violin at the age of eight, and as a teenager your mother moved the family to Havana so you could study at music school. How did life change for you and your family when you moved to the Cuban capital?

Before we moved to Havana I lived at school without my family because of my music scholarship. In my teens I could have easily been distracted away from music, but my mother’s support in moving us all to Havana, so that we could be together as a family, was invaluable in keeping me focused during my teenage years.

Tell us about attending music school in Havana in the 1970s.

The 70s was a time of discovery for me. I went to Havana on my own and everything was new for me. I absorbed music, dance, theatre, ballet and nightlife. I remember attending the Havana Jazz Festival early on, and was so excited by all the great artists, like American jazz fusion band, Weather Report, which hugely influenced my life and career.

I love many types of music. As a Cuban, I obviously love Cuban music, but I spent years studying classical music and I love that too. For me jazz is the most complete genre, and allows the freedom of different influences to come together.

Do you recall your first performance away from your homeland?

My first performance out of Cuba was in Mexico in 1986, on my way to play at the Latin Jazz Festival in Central Park, New York.

Tell us about your ‘sound’, where it came from and what makes Omar Puente unique as a violinist?

I play an electric violin, which levels the modern sound. At the same time, as a jazz musician, I am fascinated with the phrasing used by saxophone and trumpet players, and I embody some of that in my playing.

Where and when was your most memorable performance as a professional violinist, and please can you share with us how you felt?

It’s hard to say, because every place, village or country has something different to say or contribute. I have played at the Royal Albert Hall, the Royal Festival Hall and many other wonderful venues in Europe, America and the Middle East.

The most memorable was probably Brazil - a country where people eat, sleep and breathe music, and very much reminds me of my homeland, Cuba. Also, harmonically and rhythmically Brazilian people love to listen to and share their music.

My Dad bought me a toy violin when I was about 5 years old, which I loved and always played, along with other toy instruments that I rarely put down back then

Who were your musical influences as a young violinist, and who is your biggest inspiration today?

Many musicians have influenced my life, from Nat King Cole to Chucho Valdéz, from Rubén González to Earth, Wind and Fire, not forgetting American jazz saxophonist and composer John Coltrane. But the biggest, life changing musical influence for me was Weather Report, with its instrumental jazz fusion album, Black Market, released in 1976. Musicians Joe Zawinul, Wayne Shorter, Peter Erskine and Jaco Pastorius all made their Weather Report recording debuts on Black Market.

Were there moments when you ever doubted that you would be successful?

Many. Being part of a medical family, I spent a year studying to become a doctor, like my father, before realising that my love and passion was for the violin, not medicine.

What is your favourite musical era or genre to play?

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Which violinist do you feel has contributed most to the increased popularity of the instrument?

There are several, including Jean-Luc Ponty, Didier Lockwood, Regina Carter and of course French jazz violinist, Stéphane Grappelli, who founded one of the first all-string jazz bands, Quintette du Hot Club de France, with guitarist Django Reinhardt in 1934. The unstoppable Grappelli has been called "the grandfather of jazz violinists" and continued playing well into his 80s.

Tell us about some of your career highlights to date, and what made them special.

My collaboration with The Simón Bolívar Youth Orchestra of

Venezuela, because it was great to have the opportunity to work with the younger musical generation. My collaboration with The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, based in London, was a little different because I played very complicated, intricate music combining classical and jazz. My collaboration with John Williams was special simply because I got to play with the legendary classical guitarist. Working with Cuban ballet dancer, Carlos Acosta, was a new chapter in my musical career, writing music for a ballet. I must also mention violin virtuoso, Nigel Kennedy, with whom I have played on several occasions, every one being special.

You have toured everywhere from America and Mexico to the Philippines and Indonesia. What is the favourite country you have performed in and why?

It has to be Brazil, because of the atmosphere and the memories that it evokes for me.

How did you meet your wife, British music journalist Debbie Purdy?

We met in Singapore, where I was working, and she interviewed me for a jazz magazine. The article she wrote about me was very kind!

How did it feel when you arrived in the UK in 1997 for the very first time?

I flew in from Malaysia, and so it was quite a shock to first experience the UK on a cold February morning.

Now that relations have substantially thawed with the States, can you ever see yourself living in Cuba again?

Not because of the change in relations with the States. I always consider myself to be Cuban, I visit, play and teach there regularly, and, yes, I could live in Cuba again.

You often teach in London, Havana and Leeds. Are the musical youth of today as hungry for success and international recognition as you were as a young man learning your instrument in Cuba?

I teach at a higher level where students are already committed to their music, but I have been involved in various projects – including the UK’s In Harmony music programme, which allows students to use music discipline as a way to prepare for life, and supports social wellbeing and the positive aspirations of children in deprived communities. As a black violin player, I like to think that I’m a role model for young black people for whom violin would not normally be considered an on-trend instrument!

As a black violin player, I like to think that I’m a role model for young black people for whom violin would not normally be considered an on-trend instrument

How does living in Yorkshire compare to Cuba?

I live in a very multicultural area, and as an artist I think that it is beneficial to be exposed to the many different influences.

Cuba also has multiple facets and influences, but the mix in each place is unique.

You travel extensively to perform in different countries.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

I stayed at a Hilton hotel in Japan which was phenomenal. I loved the fact that the entrance to the metro was inside the lobby. I enjoyed the rotating line-up of different live entertainment at the grand Singapore Marriott Hotel on Orchard Road. The Grand Hyatt in Doha looked after me royally and gave me the biggest hotel room I had ever stayed in.

If you could work with any one living musician who would 130

it be and why?

Sonny Rollins, the great American jazz tenor saxophonist. He has charisma and tenacity, and I love the way that he has evolved and adapted his style.

How and where does Omar Puente relax and switch-off?

In Cuba at my family home.

Please tell us about your new album ‘Best Foot Forward’.

Best Foot Forward is the result of me living, working, learning, practicing and being married to a British woman for twenty years, and is my vision of showcasing a different style through my violin, by putting my violin centre stage without losing my roots. The album tour has been supported by Arts Council England – a government-funded body dedicated to promoting the performing, visual and literary arts in England – for which I am hugely grateful.

What’s next for Omar Puente?

I have been writing the music for a musical about the role of Cuban women in the pre-revolutionary era. And I am preparing for a UK tour in the Autumn. www.omarpuente.com

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GLOBETROTTER SINCE HIS CENTRAL SAINT MARTIN’S GRADUATE COLLECTION IN 1994, ANTONIO BERARDI HAS FUSED HIS SICILIAN AND BRITISH BACKGROUND TO ESTABLISH A BEAUTIFUL AESTHETIC - SIMPLE, ELEGANT, UNDERCUT WITH FEMME-FATALE COOLNESS – AS WELL AS A RESILIENT INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS. HERE THE WORLD FAMOUS DESIGNER TALKS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS WORK, UP-AND-COMING FASHION TALENT, HIS OLD FRIEND, JOHN GALLIANO, AND BRUNO, HIS BULL TERRIER.

You graduated in 1994 at Central Saint Martins - a London institution that has seen more cultural landmarks than perhaps any other. Please tell us a little about your time there.

St.Martin’s at the time was a legendary place. It was a crumbling pleasuredome, where you saw almost nothing.

There was no work displayed, people tended to work in secret, and most times, critiques were done in private. You had nothing to go by, bar the fact that everyone there wanted to be a famous designer, everyone that entered those hallowed doors, had big ideas and major dreams, and everyone was determined to shine as brightly as the skies deemed possible. It was about the drive and the strive, and you had to play the game. Parties, the club-scene, shopping in the right places, people needed to know who you were, right from the beginning. Door-whores had to know who you were, and the St. Martins moniker un-locked doors that you never thought possible. It was a magical, mysterious and utterly bewildering place that is the hardest thing to describe, but it was amazing !!!

Who were your biggest fashion influences in your teens?

My mother, Angie Dickinson, I.D., The Face, Blitz magazines, Romeo Gigli, Azzedine Alaia, Gianfranco Ferre, John

Galliano, Katherine Hamnett, Yohji Yamamoto, Erich Von Stroheim and any silent movie I could get my hands on.

What was it like working as John Galliano’s assistant, and what did you take away from the experience?

Working with John was perhaps the greatest experience of all. I started off as his production assistant (I got the job on the same day I had my interview at St. Martins, and started the same day), and I learned the hard way. From there, I progressed to researching, and then prints and embroideries, sourcing with Amanda Harlech, and generally doing what was needed. Everyone at Galliano did what needed to be done, from making tea, to unblocking toilets, to literally making fabric from Quality Street wrappers mounted on organza. John was one of the kindest, most poetic and talented people I have ever met, and working with him was like reading a book. Everyday a new page unfolded, and a new character or aspect of a character was introduced, which meant that everyday felt like Christmas.

What part of the garment production process did you most enjoy as a young designer?

To this day, my passion is for construction. Whether right or wrong, the beauty is in the experimentation. That and the

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design process go hand in hand, and it is here that ideas are born and eventually turned into reality.

Your parents are Sicilian but you were born in the UK. How does your background influence your designs?

It started off, a little bit Baroque n’ Roll, now I look at the finer things from my Sicilian heritage, the underpinnings, the pomp and ceremony, the piety and the sensuality, and put these things (stuff of myth and memory, ideas that perhaps no longer exist in that culture) into a tough British tailoring context. It is in this way that I play with the masculine/feminine, the Madonna/whore complex, the notion that things are never what they seem. I try and see the female form in all its glory, 360 degrees of curves and sensuality, but with a twist always.

There’s always a moment, or a particular collection, which sets a designer on a trajectory of international success and recognition. What was Antonio Berardi’s?

The Roundhouse show. It was based on voodoo, and I had just acquired an Italian manufacturer, so the clothes were impeccable. Princess Julia played live, with 12 African drummers, the set was all moving and on fire, Stephen Jones made the hats, Manolo Blahnik made the shoes, which had silver spurs, Mr. Pearl made the corsets and Naomi Campbell brought a friend, who just happened to be Prince. It is an experience I shall never forget.

Your clothes are all about detail, often with many different cuts and fabrics coming together in seamless fashion harmony in one exquisite piece. How do you source fabrics and what are your favourites to work with?

I look at everything, and never accept what is out there. If there is a fabric I like, I might change the weight, the content and the colour. I like tough, stiff masculine fabrics which can be moulded to the body, but sometimes I like the idea that even tissue-thin fabrics can be used in the same way. I love that nothing is impossible, and that fabrics traditionally used for certain things are turned upside down, and in some cases inside out, in order to achieve what is needed.

What would you say are the essential elements of the Antonio Berardi brand’s DNA? Sensuality, unconditional femininity and control. A woman should always be in control, whatever the outfit, and whatever the occasion.

What type of woman do you design for, and how should wearing an Antonio Berardi creation make her feel?

I design for women, every type, regardless of age or size, but above all I design for a confident woman. A woman who is not afraid to express herself and who essentially dresses for herself. A woman who wears Antonio Berardi does it because she wants to.

Not because it is the flavor of the moment, but because she falls in love with an aspect of herself that sometimes she hasn’t considered.

Will you ever design menswear?

Someday, but it would be made up of perhaps 10 or 20 pieces, things I think every man should have in his wardrobe. The perfect pea-coat, the perfect pant, the perfect v-necked sweater etc… not easy to find when you need them. This is what I would love to do one day.

Fashion shows go from one extreme to the other in terms of location, production, music,

opulence and money spent. What is the essence of an Antonio Berardi show and what do guests expect?

When I started, it was all about the show. The concept was a very different one. We didn’t really ever fit an outfit to a model. We just allocated and hoped for the best. Money and time was spent on the spectacle, the audience was enthralled by the pyrotechnics, the strangest of locations, the madness of the hair and make-up. Now I care more about the clothes, the construction, the details. I don’t want the location to interfere or distract from the beauty of the clothes. The focus is solely the beauty of the girls, the attitude, and the music of course, which should never distract but enhance the experience, and the garments, which should be impeccable, as it is they who are under scrutiny.

How do you feel, when a celebrity can wear any designer in the world and then they choose an Antonio Berardi creation? And what’s been your favourite, most recent, red carpet moment?

It is thrilling, humbling and totally surprising. I am ever grateful for the support and sometimes the un-expectedness of it. Every moment is as thrilling as the previous or the next, and to say that one is my favourite would be completely unfair. But, Rosie Huntington Whitely in a red suit on the red carpet was a moment, as was the furor that saw Gwyneth Paltrow in a sheer sided gown, which garnered around 186 newspaper covers worldwide the next day. Who knew?!

Do you have an in-flight routine and what essentials must always be with you on board a long flight?

A change of clothes, slippers, soap, a good book and cologne. I always want to smell good.

You show in London twice a year, which must be highly pressurised and labour intensive.

Please give readers of The Cultured Traveller an insight into the run-up to an Antonio Berardi show, and how you feel just before curtain up.

We send over the collection from Italy, along with my staff, myself and my tailors.

After setting up in Shoreditch, I work on editing the collection with my creative director and best friend, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou from 10Magazine, all under the watchful eye of my partner Alfredo Girombelli, who takes note of all the changes we make (even if that means cutting up two garments to make one, making a totally new style, or adding to embroidery for maximum effect. ) in order that the factory know everything they need to for eventual production and pricing. After discussions with Rami - our casting director from Paris - about who we like and who is in town, we start fittings. I am really quite fast here, as there are usually six of us pinning one girl at a time. The real time is spent by the tailors who practically re-make the garments to fit each girl – I want each girl to feel as if the garment belongs to them, it fills them with a certain pride which is invaluable. I never leave my team, sometimes leaving the fittings studio to have a shower and then straight to the venue. I feel as I have always felt before curtain up - nervous, anxious and afraid.

Nothing has changed in all this time. It doesn’t get easier, and every time feels like it’s the first time.

Choosing fashion as a career is fraught with challenges. What advice would you give a talented, up-and-coming designer?

Never say never and follow your heart. It was the advice I was given many many years ago, and it still applies.

Visiting which continent provides you with the most creative stimulation and ideas for 136

AMY ADAMS, SAG AWARDS 2014

new collections?

South America, because it is so vast, each country is totally unique, there are nods back to what we know from Europe, but it is intrinsically a universe to be discovered and re-discovered. Visually stunning, climatically all over the place, musically inspiring and the people and places are just awe-inspiring.

Of all the supermodels who have sashayed up and down your catwalk during the past 20 years, which have been the most enjoyable to work with and why?

Naomi, because she sets the tone for any show. Carmen Kass, because she cares.

Karolina Kurkova and Erin Wasson, who could dance their way through their own fittings and everyone else’s, and Kate Moss, for turning up with a McDonalds and raring to go !

How important is it for you to continue to challenge yourself as a designer?

It is the most important and fundamental aspect of what I do. I am never satisfied, so each day is filled with purpose. The day I am, which will probably never come, is the day I stop.

After more than two decades running your own international business, what keeps you interested and what do you like most about the fashion industry?

I love what I do, and am totally spoilt in the fact that my job is one that I look forward to every day of my life. There is always something new to learn and always something out there to be discovered.

Who would you say are currently the talented, young designers to look out for?

Marques'Almeida - founded by Portuguese designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida - are my current favourites. They are mesmerizing and have a totally unique voice.

What have been your most memorable vacations to date and what made them so special?

I was travelling through Asia on business, and had four days to spare. My treat was the Datai Langkawi, off the coast of Malaysia. It was heaven in a rainforest, remarkable food and accommodation, I swam with pink dolphins and entertained monkeys in my room. I was one of only four guests, one being a very famous musician who slipped in the pool on his arrival, and who I never saw again.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

Verdura Golf & Spa Resort in Sicily. It is close to where my family are from, so I know the area very well. My favourite beaches are nearby, I am surrounded by the most amazing culture and food, but I can totally get lost and disappear. Last but not least, the hotel and its staff are amazing.

Where and how does Antonio Berardi relax?

In the kitchen, cooking, cleaning, but always with music. It’s the centre of my universe.

Are you a cat or a dog person?!

I am a dog person. I have a Bull Terrier named Bruno, who is my world. He just tends to make everything better, and the unconditional love is awe inspiring.

What’s next for Antonio Berardi?

Growth! www.antonioberardi.com 138

TOD'S SMALL WAVE BAG The new season calls for a new interpretation of a classic bucket bag, and Tod's Small Wave bag ticks all the right boxes. Tod's bags and purses are fashioned from sumptuous materials in laid-back silhouettes highlighted with sophisticated accents, and this little number is no exception.

The contrasting wide front leather band finishes off the ultimate cosmopolitan bag, and will give your daytime look a chic, refined edge.

GBP 1,210 WWW.TODS.COM

VINCE LOW V-NECK Inspired by the kind of jumper your boyfriend might leave behind, this relaxed, drop-shoulder sweater is effortless for layering, but also feels cozy-soft next to the skin. In a chill-chasing knit of 70% wool and 30% cashmere, it easily slips on over head, has a deep V-neck and long sleeves. Perfect for a day lounging on the sofa with the Sunday papers!

USD 335 WWW.VINCE.COM

MCQUEEN BACK PACK

MONCLER SWEATER Designed by French apparel manufacturer and lifestyle brand - founded in 1952 by René Ramillon and best known for its down jackets and sportswear - this timeless, Italian-made Moncler ski jumper will undoubtedly become a staple part of your autumnal wardrobe, not least due its practicality and heavyweight wool and alpaca-blend composition for extra warmth against the cold.

EUR 365 WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM 140

Founded by the late British designer in 1992, Alexander McQueen quickly gained a reputation for opulent (and often outrageous) bespoke creations.

Today the line is under the creative direction of Sarah Burton, who continues the fashion house's tradition of turning out impeccably tailored, beautiful clothes, and eye-catching accessories. This black and off-white Victorian moth print jacquard backpack, with calfskin leather trim, will work equally well transiting an airport as it will in the Swiss Alps.

USD 1,395 WWW.ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM

GLOBETROTTER Unfortunately the summer is over for most of us. Those surprisingly balmy days you dream about are now pretty much gone until May next year. Sultry vacations, mostly spent lazing in the sun, are but a distant memory. When you step outside for the next few months, you'll either retreat back indoors or cope with being a little cold. But autumn (and the impending winter) is the perfect excuse to add one or two stylish layers and cozy up in the season’s coolest fashion offerings, whilst staying warm and remaining stylish. Here are some of The Cultured Traveller's picks to keep you on trend and looking cool in the autumn.

STELLA MCCARTNEY COAT Technical fabrics, rich colours and precision cuts are integral to Stella McCartney's aesthetic, while her ethical accessories always create a buzz. This precision-cut, lightly structured, one-button single-breasted woven ‘Bryce’ coat - crafted from a warm camel-coloured wool-blend - beautifully showcases the label's finely honed tailoring skills, and can be worn formally or dressed right down.

KOKORO SCARF London-based Kokoro uses luxury fabrics and traditional printing techniques, and draws inspiration from Japanese Irezumi tattoos and contemporary culture to put an evocative spin on design classics.

Designed in London, spun by an artisan factory at the base of Mount Fuji and screen-printed in Kyoto, add a little artistic flair to your winter wardrobe with one of these unique and eclectic Sumi Black Imari cashmere and silk single gauze scarves.

GBP 325 WWW.KOKOROLONDON.COM

GBP 905 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

PAUL SMITH WALLET Remember those huge radio/cassette player combos that people used to walk around with on their shoulders in the 1980s and early 90s? Known as boom boxes, they influenced a generation of music and style. Iconic British fashion designer, Paul Smith, has brought back the boom box in a series of leather goods, including this mens black calf leather billfold wallet with digitally printed interior, made in Italy.

GBP 175 WWW.PAULSMITH.CO.UK

CANADA GOOSE PARKA Originally developed for scientists working at Antarctica's McMurdo Station research facility, this extreme weather ‘Expedition’ parka is the undefeated champion of cold-weather utility jackets, having proven its worth in the harshest environments on the planet. Four front cargo pockets and two sets of fleece-lined hand-warmer pockets provide space for every glove, hat and instrument, plus there's a down-filled hood with genuine coyote fur ruff to keep your head cosy and toasty.

USD 1,000 WWW.CANADAGOOSE.COM

FENDI SIGNATURE SCARF This handmade, lightweight jacquard shawl by the historic Italian luxury fashion house, in a soft powder pink silk and wool blend with tone-on-tone FF pattern, is suitable for any season and can work equally well with a daytime ensemble or thrown over your shoulders at night.

EUR 370 WWW.FENDI.COM

ÉTOILE ISABEL MARANT BOOTS The arbiter of unstudied French cool, Isabel Marant is an aspirational, trendsetting brand famed for its pared-down Parisian vibes. Dispensing with formality, Marant creates bohemian, urbanite and wearable styles adored by fashionable women the world over. These calf leather cold-weather boots lined in soft, natural lamb shearling - are part of Marant's easygoing Étoile diffusion line launched in 1999. The classic black colour makes them as easy to wear between seasons as during the height of winter.

EUR 550 WWW.MYTHERESA.COM

AERIN TRAVEL COMB Brushing your hair regularly - from root to tip - stimulates the follicles and promotes growth. This Italian-made, travel comb by AERIN is a stylish interpretation of a hair design classic classic, and has a slightly curved shape and luxurious polished gold finish for a hint of luxury on the go. Being compact and lightweight make it perfect for travel and easy to slip into a purse or carry-on.

USD 32 WWW.AERIN.COM

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CARDIGAN The countryside of Umbria, where Brunello Cucinelli calls home, was the inspiration for the sublimely luxurious and colorful cashmere that made him famous.Today the company operates from a restored 14th century castle in Solomeo, Italy (in fact, he restored the entire village). Two different shades of yarn are combined to create this cardigan - crafted from the finest cashmere and finished with horn buttons - perfect for layering over a tee and a shirt.

GBP 1,690 WWW.MRPORTER.COM

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9/11 MEMORIAL www.911memorial.org/memorial

ELEGANT RESORTS www.elegantresorts.co.uk

9/11 MUSEUM www.911memorial.org/museum

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING www.esbnyc.com

ABC CARPET & HOME www.abchome.com

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AI FIORI www.aifiorinyc.com ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR www.fieradeltartufo.org

FIT ‘N’ TASTY www.fitntasty.ch FIVESTORY www.stuartweitzman.com

ALBUQUERQUE INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA www.balloonfiesta.com

FRIEZE LONDON www.frieze.com/fairs/frieze-london

AMANGALLA www.amanresorts.com/amangalla

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AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL www.aclfestival.com

B BAREFOOT www.barefootceylon.com

GALLE FORT HOTEL www.galleforthotel.com GALLOW GREEN www.mckittrickhotel.com GILLIGAN'S www.gilligansnyc.com GRAND BAR & LOUNGE www.sohogrand.com

BARIN HOTEL www.iranskitours.ir BARNEYS NEW YORK DOWNTOWN www.barneys.com

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BATHTUB GIN www.bathtubginnyc.com

HENLEY & PARTNERS www.henleyglobal.com

BROWN BEACH HOUSE www.brownhotels.com/beach

HENRI BENDEL www.henribendel.com

BURJ AL ARAB www.burjalarab.com

HIGH LINE www.thehighline.org

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HOTEL B¨O www.hotelbo.mx

CAFÉ BUDAPEST CONTEMPORARY ARTS FESTIVAL www.cafebudapestfest.hu

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CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT AT KAPLANKAYA www.canyonranchdestinations.com/kaplankaya/ CENTRAL PARK www.centralparknyc.org CENTURY 21 DOWNTOWN www.c21stores.com

KEMPINSKI GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS www.kempinski.com/en/st-moritz/grand-hotel-des-bains KINGFISHER www.kingfisherunawatuna.com KITH www.kithnyc.com KK www.facebook.com/kkcfort/

D DARK HORSE COMEDY CLUB www.darkhorsecomedyclub.com

L L'AMICO www.lamico.nyc

DEAR IRVING www.dearirving.com

LA FIERMONTINA www.lafiermontina.com

DEATH & CO. www.deathandcompany.com

LAKSANA www.laksala.gov.lk

DOVER STREET MARKET www.fivestoryny.com

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M MADISON & VINE www.facebook.com/MadisonAndVine

SANT FRANCESC HOTEL SINGULAR www.hotelsantfrancesc.com

MARIE EIFFEL www.marieeiffelmarket.com

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM www.guggenheim.org

MASSKARA www.facebook.com/kbdfi

SOUTH FERRY www.southferry.com

MIMIMANGO www.joedenmimimango.com MOMOSAN Ramen & Sake www.momosanramen.com

STATUE OF LIBERTY www.statuecruises.com/statue-liberty-and-ellis-island-tickets

MORIMOTO www.morimotonyc.com

STRAWBERRY FIELDS www.strawberry-fields.com.au

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART www.moma.org

STUART WEITZMAN www.doverstreetmarket.com

N NEUE GALERIE www.neuegalerie.org NORTH FERRY www.northferry.com

SUNSET BEACH www.sunsetbeachli.com

T THE CHEQUID www.thechequit.com THE FLATIRON ROOM www.theflatironroom.com

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THE FORT PRINTERS www.thefortprinters.com

OMAR PUENTE www.omarpuente.com

THE GREENWICH HOTEL www.thegreenwichhotel.com

OUTPUT CLUB www.outputclub.com

THE JANE www.thejanenyc.com

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THE LANESBOROUGH www.lanesborough.com

PALACE HOTEL www.sfpalace.com

THE OBEROI BEACH RESORT, AL ZORAH www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-al-zorah-ajman/

PARK HYATT DUBAI www.dubai.park.hyatt.com

THE RITZ, PARIS www.ritzparis.com

PROVOCATEUR www.provocateurny.com

THE THREE BY TPV www.thethreebytpv.com

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QUINTA DO LOBO BRANCO www.quintadolobobranco.pt

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL www.phuketvegetarian.com

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RAM’S HEAD INN www.ramsheadinn.com

WHITNEY MUSEUM www.whitney.org

RESENSE SPA www.resensespas.com

WORLD TRADE CENTER TRANSPORTATION HUB www.reuters.com/article/us-new-york-transportation-i dUSKCN0W34EG

ROOF GARDEN BAR www.metmuseum.org

VINE STREET CAFÉ www.vinestreetcafe.com

ROUX AT THE LANDAU www.rouxatthelandau.com

S SALON DU CHOCOLAT www.salonduchocolat.fr

Z ZEMI BEACH HOUSE RESORT & SPA www.zemibeach.com