The Cultured Traveller, June-July 2017 Issue 17

ISSUE 17 JUN-JUL 2017

ROTTERDAM CARTAGENA • THE SAXON JO’BURG • SIEM REAP INDIAN ACCENT • GAVIN RAJAH • QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT

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HIGHLIGHTS JUNE-JULY 2017 ISSUE 17

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RAPT WITH ROTTERDAM

If you’re tired of the same old city break destinations put ROTTERDAM on your radar. Best known for its awe-inspiring contemporary architecture, the Netherland port is rapidly gaining a reputation among cultured travellers for its lively nightlife, rich art scene and historic, picturesque canal-side neighbourhoods. Dawn Gibson falls under the city’s unique spell.

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GRANITIC SEYCHELLEN HOSPITALITY

Four kilometres east of La Digue Island in Seychelles lies Félicité, a small 652-acre island strewn with enormous granite boulders in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. Tucked between the rocks and lush hillsides are 30 spacious timber villas which make up SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON, undoubtedly one of the most insanely beautiful resorts in the western Indian Ocean.

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SUPREME SRI LANKAN WELLNESS

Inspired by the words of Finnish architect Juhani Uolevi Pallasmaa, and with just twenty architecturally edgy rooms conceptually designed and inspired by the country's Buddhist meditation caves, SANTANI is the deluxe Ayurvedic wellness resort that many say the Sri Lankan hospitality industry lacked until now.

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SPANISH GASTRONOMIC GLAMOUR

Put together Spanish pop music heartthrob and Miami Beach local Enrique Iglesias, international tennis champion Rafael Nadal, and six-time NBA All-Star San Antonio Spurs player Pau Gasol and what do you get? Answer: TATEL MIAMI - sister to the highly successful Madrid restaurant of the same name and more a clubstaurant than a conventional eatery, as you’d expect from a central South Beach venue with three famous co-owners.

ONE MOUNTAINOUS PRIZE

2,000 metres above sea level, ALILA JABAL AKHDAR is perched on the edge of a ravine, overlooking a dramatic gorge in a central section of the Al Hajar Mountains in northeastern Oman. The Cultured Traveller Prize Draw offers the lucky winner an opportunity to spend two nights half board with three friends in the lap of contemporary Arabic luxury, in a lavish two-bedroom private villa at this exclusive mountain resort.

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CONTENTS 74 8 EDITOR’S LETTER 12

12 NEWSFLASH In issue 17 the TCT team rounds-up the seasonal events and unmissable festivals happening in June and July 2017 around the world, including standout classical music FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS in France, MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS in Bulgaria, the bizarre WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS in Finland, San Diego's four-day convergence of animated fun COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL, South Korea’s mammoth BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL, and the zany RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE at London’s Ally Pally.

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Featured hotels in the June-July 2017 issue include prestigious Oetker Collection’s newest hospitality masterpiece PALÁCIO TANGARÁ set in São Paulo’s Burle Marx Park; floating 38 storeys above the ground in Cesar Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, the Japanese capital's MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO; and 57-room KATAMAMA in Bali, little brother to Seminyak favourite Potato Head Beach Club. We also drop anchor at CHARMING HOUSE, a boutique hotel with three different but connected sites in the spectacularly beautiful Italian city of Venice.

74 SUITE ENVY Once a massive private residence set in 10 acres of magnificent landscaped gardens in Sandhurst, one of Johannesburg’s most elite suburbs, Judith Manson spends a weekend in a 200m2 Presidential Suite at the renowned SAXON, the same hotel where Nelson Mandela resided while his home was under construction, and edited his autobiography, ‘Long Walk to Freedom’.

82 BOARDING PASS Our Editor-in-Chief Nicholas Chrisostomou often spends as much time hurtling through the sky as he does with his feet on terra firma, so who better to round up those items we should never board a plane without.

From eye gel and water spray to a goose down travel pillow and silk eye mask, Nicholas reveals his in-flight essentials in Boarding Pass.

86 NO SHOES REQUIRED On the edge of Arabia’s famed Empty Quarter, an hour and a half outside Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates, solitude and tranquility set the world to rights at QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA. Here Ashlee Starratt navigates the unending dunes with the sand between her toes,

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86 exploring this wanderer’s oasis paradise, part of a 9,000 sq km nature reserve.

94 SPOTLIGHT A strategic fortress when places like Buenos Aires and Caracas were still blueprints, CARTAGENA is undoubtedly the most romantic city in Latin America. Nicholas Chrisostomou investigates the incredibly well preserved walled city, and uncovers hip bars and gourmet restaurants, art galleries and antique stores, boutique hotels and designer shops behind the whitewashed, ochre and terracotta façades.

112 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN An enchanting and engaging saga of love and deceit, of power struggles and battles and of age-old conflict, is, according to local folklore, the backdrop to the foundation of SIEM REAP. It is a land of mysticism, wonder and, above all else, architectural brilliance. Dilraz Kunnummal explores the famed North Western Cambodian city, host to some of Asia’s most incredible temples.

122 TASTE & SIP REVIEW Indian food is beloved the world over for its rich sauces, succulent meats

and accomplished vegetarian dishes.

Since opening in 2009, INDIAN ACCENT in New Delhi has been consistently ranked as the one of the country’s top dining destinations, and is the only restaurant in India to feature in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017. Alex Benasuli checks out its culinary credentials for TCT.

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On Sunday 21 May 2017, RINGLING BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY said its final farewell to a sold out crowd of 17,000 enthusiastic circus fans, at the Nassau Veterans Memorial Coliseum in Uniondale, 19 miles east of New York City on Long Island. TCT charts the 146-year history of “The Greatest Show On Earth” and why it was forced to pack up its big tent forever.

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144 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER Since launching his eponymous label in 2000, GAVIN RAJAH has demonstrated his ample skills for original and technically superior workmanship balanced with creativity and commercial sensibility, making his brand synonymous with fine craftsmanship, luxurious finishes and divine fabrics. The renowned South African fashion designer chats exclusively with The Cultured Traveller.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

W

hen I was young my parents used to take my sister and I to The Imperial in Torquay, which, during the Victorian seaside resort’s heyday, was one of Devon's most glamorous hotels, perched on a cliff-top on the outskirts of the town since 1866. Despite being so young, to this day I recall the chandeliers, marble floors, cornicing and formal gardens with a sense of romance. Whilst I wonder how The Imperial looks now, in my mind it will always be grand, imposing and timeless. I used to love the time we spent at The Imperial, even though we usually all stayed in the same bedroom and apart from breakfasts we rarely dined in the hotel.

I’m often asked my favourite places to stay around the world, or what prompts the inclusion of a property in our Rest Your Head section. In the fast moving 21st century hospitality industry, with new hotels opening every week, it’s hard to pinpoint why a hotel is “hot” or worthy of mention in The Cultured Traveller, apart from ticking the usual boxes of course. But now I think about it, a hotel’s longevity and whether it will stand the test of time is a sure factor. As a child The Imperial obviously had a profound effect on me because I still remember it today. Back then it made me imagine how I’d like to travel and live as an adult, if I had the means, of course.

Today there are hotels I adore because they trigger a visceral response and always make me long to return. They range from a homely four-room hotel on the South coast of Sri Lanka, to a slick boutique property in the upscale downtown heart of Beirut. Both I like immensely for completely different reasons but are equally memorable. For those who live for our next trips (I include myself in this group), and dream of places before we’ve ever been there, we try to showcase in TCT hotels that may – like The Imperial did for me – create lasting memories rather than passing fancies.

There are at least four Rest Your Head hotels I’m rather keen to experience (page 18), Dawn Gibson’s diary of her visit to the seaport city of Rotterdam makes me want to rush to the Netherlands and investigate for myself (page 44), and Ashlee Starratt’s dreamy account of her time in UAE’s Empty Quarter sounds like the perfect place to clear my mind (page 86). I hope that the properties and destinations featured in this issue will spark initial excitement, and some, like my visit to charismatic Cartagena (page 94), will mark the beginning of a new romance.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

ISSUU.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER/DOCS • INSTAGRAM.COM/CULTUREDTRAVELLER • FACEBOOK.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER • WWW.THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE @ THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • ADVERTISING ADS @THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • EDITORIAL WORDS @THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM

CONTRIBUTORS DAWN GIBSON CITY FOCUS Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who is passionate about travel, fashion, food, culture and the arts. Never happier than when about to board a plane en route to a far-flung part of the globe, she is also a keen scuba diver always in search of the perfect coral reef. Dawn has worked as a senior news reporter for a leading city daily newspaper in Australia and as editor for a glossy lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Her work has appeared in numerous international print and online publications, including Qatar Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.

JUDITH MANSON SUITE ENVY After spending 20 years in the publishing industry, Judith now devotes most of her time to organising mass participation running events in the UK and abroad. A keen traveller from a young age, she visited New York three times before the age of 13. Since then her ‘been to’ list has expanded to include Australia, South Africa, Gibraltar, Greece, Italy, Spain, Switzerland and Turkey, with plenty more on the horizon. Now MD of her own event management company, Judith is able to combine her love for travelling and events perfectly.

ASHLEE STARRATT NO SHOES REQUIRED Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

ALEX BENASULI TASTE & SIP REVIEW Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Journalist, public speaker, dancer, explorer and mum to a cheeky one year-old, Dilraz has a decade of experience working in the media industry across India and the Middle East.

Her portfolio includes being the editor for a women’s magazine, heading a business publication’s editorial team, running a corporate newspaper and producing radio shows for a channel with 45 stations across India.

A lifelong expat, Dilraz enjoys learning more about different cultures and so can be usually spotted at museums and exhibitions - when she is not eating out or spending time with her family.

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 9

WIN A TWO-NIG JABAL VILLA AT A

PRIZE DRAW This incredible prize offers the lucky winner and three friends the opportunity to spend two nights in the lap of luxury, staying in a lavish 350m2 two-bedroom private Jabal Villa at exclusive Alila Jabal Akhdar mountain resort in Oman, inclusive of return 4WD airport transfers from Muscat Airport, daily breakfasts and evening dinners at Juniper Restaurant, plus four individual 90-minute signature treatments at the resort’s deluxe on-site Spa Alila.

2,000 metres above sea level, Alila Jabal Akhdar is perched on the edge of a ravine overlooking a dramatic gorge in a central section of the Al Hajar Mountains in northeastern Oman, in the epicentre of the highest range in the Eastern Arabian Peninsula. This exclusive resort of just 86 beautifully appointed suites and villas, famed for its personal service and unique location, is a calm, secluded and boutique affair, and a veritable haven for adventure travellers, nature lovers or those just seeking a retreat from city life.

Alila Jabal Akhdar's crowning glory (aside from the incredible views) are two sprawling private villas, set away from the main hotel, named Rummanah and Jowz after the pomegranates and walnuts the region is famed for. These exclusive two-bedroom villas offer plush and spacious surroundings, plenty large enough for a family of four or a select group of friends, each including a huge private infinity pool facing the gorge. WWW.ALILAHOTELS.COM/JABALAKHDAR

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email and mobile number) to WIN @ THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM All prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place after 31st July 2017 and the lucky winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used between 1st September 2017 through 1st March 2018 and is subject to blackout dates.

The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

GHT HALF BOARD STAY FOR FOUR PEOPLE IN A ALILA JABAL AKHDAR IN THE OMANI MOUNTAINS PRIZ WOR E USD TH 12,00 0

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 11

DISTORTION DENMARK

FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS FRANCE This standout classical music festival is hosted inside the Basilica Saint-Denis, a

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masterpiece of Gothic art, and is a great excuse to cross the périphérique ring road and discover this delightful northern Parisian suburb. One of the main events in the French cultural calendar since 1968, the festival is organised by the city of Saint-Denis under the auspices of the Île-de-France region, the French Ministry of Culture and Communication, Le Centre des Monuments Nationaux and Radio France. International conductors and soloists perform side-by-side with prestigious Parisian orchestral acts plus some of the greatest artists on the international classical circuit. A highlight of the 2017 50th edition will be the performance of Mozart’s requiem by the Orchestra National de France, the Chœur de Radio France plus a high-level vocal soloist quartet, conducted by James Gaffigan, musical director of Lucerne’s celebrated symphonic orchestra.

30 May - 30 June 2017 www.festival-saint-denis.com

Since 1998, Distortion has been pushing the limits of Copenhagen’s street life and party culture, attracting DJs from across the globe and seeing the city centre teeming with thousands of revellers for five days. Almost twenty years on, Distortion is now a mammoth over-the-top party extravaganza that offers massive street parties during the day (think impromptu crowd surfing and street-food aplenty), an intimate club festival exploring new music at night (Distortion Club), and, to round off the whole thing in spectacular fashion, a two-day rave held at Copenhagen’s harbour (Distortion Ø). Being such an eco-friendly city, the street festivities are financed by partygoers purchasing a "Gadearmbåndet" street bracelet so Distortion can properly clean up Copenhagen once the musical mayhem has finally ended.

31 May – 4 June 2017 www.cphdistortion.dk

MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS BULGARIA Few places on the planet offer such an offbeat slice of unconventional community-based collaborative action as Meadows in

GLASTONBURY U.K. Glastonbury is the grandfather of modern day festival gatherings, launched in 1970 and now more of a settlement than a music fest. Twice the size of Bath and more like five or six festivals rolled into one, Glastonbury’s more like a refugee camp for society's arty and most liberal than anything you'll see elsewhere during Blighty’s packed summer festival season. Such breadth offers something for pretty much everyone, attracting a vast and diverse selection of people of around 150,000 ranging from middle-aged backpackers with portable deckchairs, to boozy jocks stripping off on the first sight of sunshine, spiritualists and yoga teachers, dedicated hippies, yuppies, hipsters and fashionistas. Since Glastonbury is essentially a music festival above

the Mountains, which takes place in an eerily beautiful space in the Rhodope mountains, which straddle the border between Bulgaria and Greece, and provide the perfect setting and stunning vistas to tune out of everyday life and plug into free-spirited debauchery. Meadows in the Mountains prides itself on its respect for, and integration with, the native community. Local inhabitants house attendees and the environmental policies are stricter than almost every other global gathering. This is not a festival about global music superstars, but rather the wild and romantic atmosphere and an overall sense of escapism that comes as much from revellers as from the musicians and artists performing.

9-11 June 2017 www.meadowsinthemountains.com

all else, unsurprisingly there’s an awful lot of musical talent to check out. This year’s line-up is headlined by none other than Radiohead, Katy Perry, Ed Sheeran, Lorde, Emile Sandé and The Jacksons, plus many more acts to be announced across the festival’s one hundred stages.

21-25 June 2017 www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

RATH YATRA INDIA Rath Yatra is one of India’s largest and most important Hindu festivals, drawing more than a million pilgrims and devotees to the streets of Puri. Over the years poets, saints and scriptures have consistently praised the good fortune associated with attending this “festival of the chariots” since it is one of the only times annually that the deities leave the temple of Jagannath allowing non-Hindus and visitors to see them. The three

figurines that make the trip are Jagannath (considered to be the lord of the universe and an incarnation of Vishnu, the god of preservation), his older brother Balabhadra, and their sister Subhadra. They travel more than a mile in elaborately constructed 45-foot-tall wooden chariots on Bada Danda (Puri’s main street), from the Jagannath Temple to the Gundicha Temple where they remain for nine days. During the procession - as drums beat, gongs bang and conch shells blow - pilgrims vie for even a glimpse of the gods since they’re associated with extreme good fortune and the righting of wrongs.

25 June 2017 www.rathyatra.org

MONTREAL INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL CANADA Montreal is a city where a heady mix of innovation, musical appreciation, joie de vivre and public celebration are all important ingredients of the civic cocktail. It's a city that loves the tradition and history that jazz

WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS FINLAND Celebrating its 25th year in 2017, this bizarre competition has its roots in the tribal practice of pillaging neighbouring villages for womenfolk. Apparently a robber by the name of Rosvo-Ronkainen was particularly keen on the practice of thieving other people's wives in the late 1800's.

What started as a light-hearted attraction in the small Finnish town of Sonkajärvi has become a world-recognised event, which sees forty pairs from seven countries fight to complete a 253.5 metre-course in the fastest time. The track is made up of sand, grass and various obstacles, including two log hurdles plus a one-metre deep-water obstacle. If the wife weighs less than 49 kilos, she must wear a rucksack to reach

this minimum weight. Various techniques are employed to carry the wife, the most popular being the “Estonian” style, where the crash helmet-wearing wife is dangling upside down on the man’s back!

30 June - 1 July 2017 www.eukonkanto.fi/en/

FIESTA DE SAN FERMÍN represents, but also respects the flexibility and improvisation implicit within the genre. The city’s inaugural jazz event in 1980 was headlined by no other than the great Ray Charles.

Since then - aided by the resurgence of jazz in the 1980s - the Montreal International Jazz Festival has grown into the largest jazz festival in the world. Headliners for the 2017 edition include Bob Dylan, Diana Krall (pictured) and Melissa Etheridge, plus the Montreal Jubilation Gospel Choir, which has performed for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and Nelson Mandela, and transcends the roots of African-American spiritual music with its wonderfully world-class eclectic gospel sound.

28 June - 8 July 2017 www.montrealjazzfest.com 14 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

SPAIN Every year thousands of Pamploneses (people from Pamplona), plus visitors who flood into the pretty Spanish town from all over the world, all dressed from head to toe in immaculate white clothing with red handkerchiefs tied around their necks, fill the streets of Pamplona to celebrate the week of festivities in honour of San Fermín, also known as Los Sanfermines. The festival of San Fermín mixes a variety of contrasts: official and popular culture, religion and profanity, new and old, and order and chaos.

Celebrations kick off with the launch of a rocket (el chupinazo) in Pamplona’s Plaza Ayuntamiento at noon on 6th July, and end nine days later on 14th July. Every day includes a

much publicised bull-run, a parade of colourful gigantes or cabezudos (big headed giants), a bullfight, fireworks and non-stop partying.

6-14 July 2017 www.sanfermin.com

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL SOUTH AFRICA One of the rainbow nation’s most popular lifestyle and sporting gatherings, the Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival is a 10-day family-orientated event aimed at foodies and sports lovers.

Oyster eating, oyster shucking, oyster farm tours, oyster recipe challenges and gourmet oyster-themed dinners happen throughout the festival, alongside wine and champagne tastings aplenty. Attracting more than 70,000 visitors annually, oyster lovers slurp and swallow their way through more than 200,000 oysters at over 20 dedicated venues which serve the delectable molluscs au naturel or cooked in a variety of

creative ways. Meanwhile the festival hosts two top-notch competitive sporting events - the Pick n Pay Weekend Argus Rotary Cycle Tour and the Pick n Pay Cape Times Knysna Marathon - both of which are booked up months in advance due to their immense popularity.

7-16 July 2017 www.oysterfestival.co.za

RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE U.K. A unique no-holds-barred downhill race spectacle, in which drivers use only gravity and courage as fuel (plus perhaps a certain energy drink), Red Bull has held more than 100 soapbox races around the world since the first took place in Brussels in 2000. Now an international event staged everywhere from Australia to Italy, amateur drivers

race homemade engine-less vehicles in a colourful downhill battle in front of thousands of enthused fans. This unique non-motorised racing event, challenges both experienced racers and amateurs alike to design and build outrageous dream machines and compete against the clock. Over the years previous entries have included a piano, a giant baby carriage, a rodeo clown, a massive corn on the cob, a jail cell and even the Golden Gate Bridge. At the Red Bull Soapbox Race at London’s Ally Pally this summer, teams will be judged on speed, creativity and showmanship. This assumes, of course, that they make it to the finish line!

9 July 2017 www.redbullsoapboxrace.com/uk/en/

BASTILLE DAY FRANCE Marking the beginning of one of the most violent and famous revolutions in modern history, Bastille Day on 14th July

celebrates French revolutionaries storming the Bastille fortress-prison in an event that is seen as the uprising of the modern nation. Whilst the largest celebrations invariably take place in Paris, other events occur throughout France, with the historic fortress town of Carcassonne staging one of the most visual pyrotechnic parties on the planet. Two tips for cultured travellers visiting France around Bastille Day: Firstly, most Parisians leave the city for the seaside during the summer, so this is an opportune time to bag a pretty pied-à-terre (Paris is Airbnb's second-biggest location on the planet) and live like a local for this classless people’s party. And the real fun happens the night before on 13th July, with all manner of balls, dances and parties throughout Paris.

14 July 2017

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COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL U.S.A. The rise in popularity of animated films, western cartoons and Anime, as well as video games and other fantasy novels, has caused the Comic-Con franchise to grow massively since the 70s.

Comic-Con International – San Diego's four-day convergence of costumes and fun – is where fans meet industry stars and play in their very own comic fantasyland. Packed with events from autograph signings to film screenings and costume competitions, this behemoth convention’s massive programming schedule features more than 600 individual events, including hands-on workshops, educational and academic programming, animation and film screenings, video games

forums, an autograph arena, portfolio reviews, art shows, a masquerade costume competition, and the Will Eisner Comic Industry Awards. All in just four days.

20-23 July 2017 www.comic-con.org

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL SOUTH KOREA South Korea's most popular annual festival attracts millions to pools, slides and wrestling arenas filled with mud!

Originally conceived as a marketing tool for Boryeong mud cosmetics in 1998, over time the festival has become a vastly popular past time for visitors and locals alike. Mud considered to be rich in minerals used to manufacture cosmetics in the country, is taken from the Boryeong mud flats, 200 kilometres south of Seoul, and driven to the Daecheon beach area which is turned into a mud wonderland where visitors

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL AUSTRIA 2017 is the 20th anniversary of one of the most colourful and unusual celebratory festivals you are ever likely to see, the World Bodypainting Festival, which has wowed audiences year on year since its inception. From make-up to tattoos, the human body has been used as a canvas by people all over the world for thousands of years, with almost every culture in history painting or adorned themselves in some form of celebration or ritual. Although the name divulges basically what goes on, there is far more to this visual treasure trove than you might think, with artists and models from over 40 different countries doing their best to shock and entertain visitors. The World Bodypainting Festival takes

place over the course of a week in the picturesque Austrian holiday town of Pörtschach, and has now grown into the biggest and most well known event of its type in the world 28-30 July 2017 www.bodypainting-festival.com

enjoy mud wrestling, mud sliding and even swimming in a mammoth mud bath. No festival is without controversy of course, and in 2009 a group of more than 200 school children developed a skin rash after contact with the mud. But despite the backlash the festival continues to be incredibly popular and is, for most South Koreans, their ultimate summer fun destination. Particularly energetic visitors can try the marine mud-training course, whilst those looking for something more relaxing can chill in the mud massage zone. In the evening, music and fireworks keep the party going at the beach.

21-30 July 2017 https://english.visitkorea.or.kr Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 17

SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON SEYCHELLES

Rest Your Head

SEYCHELLES, VENICE, KANDY, PLACENCIA, SEMINYAK, NEW YORK PARIS, TOKYO, SÃO PAULO, CAMBRIDGE, AMSTERDAM, MALDIVES

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SEYCHELLES SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON Four kilometres east of La Digue Island in Seychelles lies Félicité, a small 652-acre granitic island, and the fifth largest in an archipelago of 115. Originally a coconut plantation in the early 1900s when it had a native population of just 50, in the late 19th century the British exiled Sultan Abdullah of Perak to Félicité after an uprising in the Perak region of Malaysia. Five years later Sultan Abdullah moved to Mahé.

Today Félicité is most famous for its enormous granite boulders strewn around the island in a huge variety of jagged and curved shapes and sizes. Lending the island a real Jurassic feel, one could easily be fooled into thinking a dinosaur might walk out of the rocks at any moment. Scattered along the shoreline and in the crystalline turquoise waters, the boulders loom over everything and are home to many species of fantastical marine creatures. Needless to say diving in and around Félicité is world-class. In addition to an incredible variety of aquatic life, numerous flora, fauna, fruits and vegetables grow throughout the island, including wild vanilla orchids, wild mango, coconut palms, bananas and oranges.

Whilst there are many insanely beautiful resorts in the western Indian Ocean, little else may feel quite as special as Six Senses Zil Pasyon, the only resort on this private verging on primeval island. With just 30 spacious balau timber villas, ranging in size from 2,150 to 5,380 sq. ft., each is tucked into the lush vegetation of the hillsides providing total privacy and stunning ocean views. The décor is simple and contemporary, decorated in a calming colour palette that reflects the outdoors, making maximum use of high quality materials such as local woods and blocks of Thai stone in contrasting blue and grey tones. Every villa features a whimsical swing for two by a giant bathtub, both facing the ocean. There is attention to detail everywhere, from plush towels edged in purple stitching to a chaise carved into your personal plunge pool so you can recline whilst admiring the view as the sun sets.

To get to the five treatment rooms of the spa, the hammam, yoga platform and saltwater pool - all situated on the wilder eastern side of the island - guests must climb around massive granite boulders linked by bouncy Robinson Crusoe-style rope bridges, making even a walk to get a massage a mini adventure. www.sixsenses.com/zil-pasyon

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VENICE, ITALY CHARMING HOUSE Venice is one of the world’s most spectacular cities and to visit this centre of Italian beauty is to be immersed in the history of an ancient and unique place. Staying in a stuffy full-service grand palazzo, bursting with antiques and reproduction artworks and presided over by haughty staff can often cheapen the entire experience. Better to settle yourself into a classy and intimate hotel that is every bit as different as the original grandeur that you are after all visiting Venice to see first hand.

Whilst there are seemingly hotels on every corner, few are stylish, well located, welcoming and affordable. Charming House - a boutique hotel with three different sites in the city - has all these qualities in spades. Two of the hotels, DD724 and DD694 (whose names are an abbreviation of their addresses in Sestiere Dorsoduro neighbourhood), are located at the very epicentre of the enchanting Venetian art district, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Academia Gallery.

No signs mark the entrances (another good reason to name your hotel after its street address) but once inside there’s no doubt where you are. The third property, Charming House, is located in between Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge, making it the perfect base from which to explore the unfathomable canals and ancient streets.

Despite effectively being three separate hotels, there is an arc of unity that joins them, lovingly created through the vision of owner Chiara Bocchini, who focused on contemporary Italian art and design to create luxurious living spaces that are richly liveable, in warm muted colours and earthy tans and browns, splattered with unique and individual touches.

You will not find a front desk or lobby at any Charming House property - instead you are given the keys to the house and invited to make yourself comfortable and feel at home right from the get go. A very good buffet breakfast – with fresh fruit and pastries plus some cooked options – is included in the room rate and can be consumed in each house's stylish little breakfast room or the privacy of your bedroom. Guest rooms range from the basic Essential category to a plush four-person Deluxe Suite.

The suite at DD694 enjoys blissful views over the Torreselle canal and the gardens of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. www.thecharminghouse.com

KANDY, SRI LANKA SANTANI Almost certainly Sri Lanka’s first and currently only true luxury wellness resort, Santani was inspired by the words of Finnish architect, Juhani Uolevi Pallasmaa, who said that "All great art evokes an experience of silence. The silence of art is not a mere absence of noise but a silence that awakes a mental and sensory awareness that connects us with the benevolent tranquillity of the universe”. Using these words as the resort's mantra, Santani's aim is to restore balance and help you get in touch with your inner self. With the assistance of its charming staff and for those visitors dedicated to achieving their goals, this is achieved with aplomb at Santani.

Founded by Sri Lankan Vickum Nawagamuwage (who was educated at Harvard before being snapped up by Deloitte), Santani is the deluxe Ayurvedic big hitter that many say the Sri Lanka hospitality industry really lacked. Perhaps a little extreme for some but a necessity for those who take wellness more seriously than just another term used to persuade vacationers to book a holiday, the twenty architecturally edgy rooms at Santani are conceptually designed and inspired by the country's Buddhist meditation caves, with only one outside opening in the front, thus cutting off peripheral distractions and allowing guests to focus and slow their minds, similar to the effect sought by meditating monks. Each simply designed

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room sits upon exposed steel pillars giving it an ‘inside-out’ feel, has been given a white wattle-and-daub finish that was traditionally used in building walls and is finished with natural timber flooring. All slot seamlessly into the surrounding 48 acres of tea plantations and lush landscaping, which include every type of vegetation and fruit tree imaginable.

Fresh breezes replace air-conditioning (which consumes about 70% of energy use at any hotel) and almost 90% of the resort’s timber (both structural and furniture) was recycled or up cycled, making Santani one of the most energy efficient hotels in the world.

Programmes are tailored to each guest following an initial assessment by Dr Sreekanth to determine your dosha.

Everything is covered, from weight loss to anti-ageing, joint pains to exhaustion, and trauma to depression. Thanks to executive chef Wajira Gamage, a Relais & Château veteran who spent 16 years in France, food is super-fresh and mega healthy made with seasonal produce sourced from local farms. Best of all are the views, maximised by floor-to-ceiling windows, of the spectacular Knuckles mountain range, in the northern end of the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka.

Expect to leave Santani sleek, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, with your spirits cleansed, pumped and soaring. www.santani.lk

CAMBRIDGE, U.K. TAMBURLAINE Famed throughout the world for its historic university, until recently Cambridge was rather lacking in cutting-edge contemporary hospitality offerings to match the city’s young and upwardly mobile inhabitants, thriving and vibrant scene and ongoing reinvention as a modern British metropolis.

Named after a play by Corpus Christi College fellow Christopher Marlowe, one of the university's most celebrated alumni, the 155-room Tamburlaine hotel, located in the new CB1 development a stone’s throw from the city’s main train station, opened in Spring 2017. Tamburlaine was the U.K. hospitality debut of Irish O’Callaghan group, best known for its stylish Dublin hotels, including the excellent Stephen's Green Hotel.

Tamburlaine’s opening ended a long-running buzz of speculation surrounding what promised to be the unveiling of Cambridge's most exciting hospitality project for years, and somewhat unsurprisingly the hotel has been met with much applause. Not least, the communal areas of the hotel - each designed to have their own identity by Shoreditch-based Bryan O’Sullivan Studio - have proved to be immensely popular. The dramatic double-height lobby is bright, playful and colourful, with quirky modern chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and rich parquet flooring underfoot. It is overlooked by an elegant library, its cosy atmosphere induced by gently sagging bookshelves, timber panelled walls and super comfy furniture just begging to be sat in.

In a further nod to the distinct culture and history of its location, guest rooms come in three scholarly accommodation categories: Fresher rooms boast floor-to-ceiling windows; Some of the Scholar rooms on the upper floors have private balconies; and the three-bedroomed Dean suites on the top floors offer panoramic vistas across the city and surrounding countryside. Yet despite their size and price differentials, all guest rooms are furnished in the hotel's ubiquitous traditional-yet-contemporary design ethic featuring bespoke furniture, wood panelling, polished concrete surfaces and patterned velvets, all offset by a soothing Cambridge Blue colour scheme.

But if all the calming blues get a little too much, there are a host of dining and drinking options downstairs to liven even the most exhausted of travellers, including a bustling bar and restaurant – where a dramatic carved marble bar takes centre stage in the large and elegant Brasserie-style dining room - which draws a crowd from early morning until the wee hours. Here the simple seasonal menu is laden with tasty dishes prepared using locally sourced ingredients courtesy of award-winning chef, Alan Dann. www.thetamburlaine.co.uk

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The Ultimate Mountain Villa Retreat

Starting USD 2000 plus taxes per night

Immerse in the fresh air and quiet beauty of the mountain with a stay in Alila Jabal Akhdar’s most spacious and private havens – the magnificent Jabal Villas. Just imagine…361 sqm of indoor and outdoor space with all the luxurious comforts of home, the perks of a private pool, jacuzzi, steam room, and a personal butler at your beck and call. Indulge in our exclusive Jabal Villa package featuring a host of complimentary food and beverage, spa privileges, and activities for the whole family, in one truly great escape.

Package Inclusions: Return airport transfers from Muscat Unlimited food during the stay (including in-room service) Complimentary beverages replenished daily in MY BAR Selected beverages during dinner Four 90 minute spa treatments during the stay

Terms & Conditions: Valid until 30th September 2017 Minimum 2-night stay Maximum occupancy, 4 adults and 2 children below 12 years Spa treatment, prior reservation is required Rates are subject to 17% taxes and service charge

One Alila experience - “The Village Walk” Alila hospitalities with our compliments Morning yoga classes based on weekly schedule Alila Living bath amenities Access to PLAY Alila kids’ club Access to Wi-Fi in rooms and public areas

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Transfer with our compliments Accessible by 4-wheel drive only Maximum 4 adults including 3 pieces of luggage are permitted in one car Extra charges are applicable for 2nd car (if required)

752 GOURAUD STREET • SAIFI VILLAGE • BEIRUT • LEBANON • +961 76 99 76 76 • INFO@GILTBEIRUT.COM • WWW.GILTBEIRUT.COM

PLACENCIA, BELIZE

ITZ’ANA RESORT Located in southern Belize (formerly British Honduras) on the eastern coast of Central America, about a two hour drive from the capital Belmopan, Placencia in the south of the nation is a gorgeous emerald peninsula with 16 miles of sandy beaches. The Caribbean Sea lies to the east and the charming Placencia lagoon to the west, looking towards the Maya Mountains on the mainland. Many cultured travellers visit Placencia during the months of April, May and June to kayak, snorkel, saltwater fly fish, and swim and dive with giant whale sharks at the Gladden Spit Marine Reserve. There’s also a very popular annual lobster fest. Whilst in colonial times Placencia was primarily a fishing village, it has now become one of the Caribbean’s most popular beach paradise destinations.

Billed as “an ode to the great Caribbean estates of years past” and named after the Mayan god of day and night, Itz'ana Resort & Residences, a 20-acre estate, recently opened in Placencia. Comprising 47 guest rooms plus 47 private residences, Itz’ana is designed around a traditional Great House, where guests gather for eating, imbibing, socialising and relaxing. Here you’ll also find Limilia restaurant, which serves a sea-to-table inspired menu to diners who look out across spectacular views of the Caribbean. Vegetables are sourced from Itz’ana’s own organic farm, while the resort’s in-house fishermen catch fresh fish daily. The Great House is also home to the private Rum Room, where a dedicated rum sommelier serves spirits from all over Latin America and the Caribbean. There’s also a Hemingway-inspired library, a rooftop deck where sunrise yoga classes take place overlooking the sea, and a fully equipped spa with a meditation room, a saltwater pool and five treatment rooms where locally sourced rainforest botanicals are utilised for a wide range of bespoke rejuvenating treatments.

Designed by renowned architect Roberto de Oliveira Castro, rooms and suites feature vaulted ceilings, open plans layouts, over-water decks, private pools and glorious views greeting guests at every turn. Whilst NYC-based interior designer Samuel Amoia has mixed Central American patterns with a modern aesthetic to create an entirely unique hospitality feel. www.itzanabelize.com

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TOKYO, JAPAN

MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO Floating 38 storeys above the ground, the Japanese capital's Mandarin Oriental is the perfect locale to get your bearings in a city as chaotic as Tokyo. Housed within the sleek Cesar Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, located in the quiet and relatively old Nihonbashi district (historically the heart of the capital), and boasting some of the best views across the sprawling metropolis, your arrival via a super-fast elevator probably won’t prepare you for the spectacular. The check-in area - all floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows and brisk efficiency - has the sublime city skyline as its backdrop, and, on a clear day, you can see Mount Fuji from your breakfast table. The hotel’s location is pretty much perfect, since it is both close to busy Ginza, which is home to some of the city’s most upscale stores (including the fantastic Chanel boutique), and the Mitsukoshi-Mae subway is in the basement and big stations such as Shibuya are just 20 minutes away.

Much like the city itself, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo marries contemporary chic with classic luxury, superlative service and Japanese-themed design rather well. The hotel's 157 rooms and 21 suites are super tasteful abodes of predominantly cherry-brown timber and black granite, with nature-inspired design themes prevailing via delicate leaf-motif fabrics created by the textile designer Reiko Sudo, complemented by paper lanterns and bamboo walls. Guest rooms are also chock-a-block with nifty utilitarian detailing and functionality, as you’d expect from a city as advanced as Tokyo. Think hallway-accessible service closets into which invisible housekeepers deposit newspapers or freshly polished shoes, elegant kimonos hanging in the wardrobes and waterfall-style showers tucked into semi-enclosed marble alcoves. Add to all this Japanese efficiency and modernity a dozen (yes 12) different eateries, which range from a gastromolecular tapas bar to fine French dining and authentic Cantonese fare, and you have the makings of a veritable hospitality heaven in the sky. Three of the hotel’s restaurants are Michelin-starred, and whilst eight-cover Sushi Sora is a must (yes it has just 8 seats) and offers unparalleled views of Tokyo Skytree, the pizzas on 38th are possibly as good as you’ll find in New York. www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS SIR ALBERT Set in a red brick 19th century former diamond factory in the heart of Amsterdam’s hip multicultural De Pipj neighbourhood, hoteliers Liran Wizman and Bram van der Hoek took the design hotel concept into new territory when they came up with the concept for their engaging and original Sir Albert Hotel.

In the minds of Wizman and van der Hoek, Sir Albert is someone who personifies the qualities of old-fashioned sophistication, and is an imaginary aristocratic type who has thrown open his family mansion to friends and family. Sir Albert is the sort of chatty but charming host who would leave a post-it note on your bathroom mirror and whose favourite artworks, trinkets, cabinets of curiosities and mementoes are dotted about everywhere.

But Sir Albert's style is not retro – rather one of strong shapes, clean lines and sombre colours (think black, chocolate and fawn) and his approach to service and luxury are modern and proper.

From the moment you walk into the hotel you’re welcomed like old friends and offered a glass of prosecco during the informal check-in before being whisked to your lodgings by an amiable member of staff. The sleek five-storey hotel has 90 rooms and suites which combine cool contemporary styling with dashes of opulence, perfect for those who see themselves - as Sir Albert would say - as modern aristocrats. All rooms are low-key but high-tech, equipped with iPod docking stations, espresso makers, and in all rooms from ‘deluxe’ level upwards, an iPad that you may borrow and take around town during your stay. Bathrooms are spacious and well appointed, with a stylish bowl-shaped sink and rain showerhead over a luxuriously long tub.

Downstairs there's a bijou but comfortable sitting area called the Study, lined with shelves laden with books, Italian scuffed leather chairs and a slate floor softened by a Persian rug. The hotel’s wildly popular on-site Japanese restaurant, IZAKAYA Asian Kitchen & Bar, is well designed and something of a culinary hotspot in the city.

In a city which can often take itself a little too artistically seriously when it comes to 5-star hotels, Sir Albert is a very well located hybrid of new and old Amsterdam, offering cosmopolitan hipness married with a welcome amount of warmth and a fun sense of humour. www.siralberthotel.com

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 33

PARIS, FRANCE MAISON ALBAR HOTEL PARIS CÉLINE In a city as beautiful as Paris - which is simply drenched in culture, fine dining and so much to see - one often spends precious little time in your hotel room. But guests at Maison Albar Hotel Paris Céline would be forgiven for not stepping out of the original headquarters of Céline, a lovingly restored 1866 classic Parisian townhouse complete with Georges-Eugene Haussmann façade, concealing the über-modern luxe accommodation within.

Luxuriating in this stylish understated Parisian boutique hotel, with its contemporary edge and emphasis on local character and attention to detail, essentially delivers several facets of Parisian life to your very guest room.

Paris Céline is the brainchild of fourth generation Albar family Céline Falco (née Albar) and her husband Jean-Bernard; the couple having embraced the family motto of excellence in hospitality with a refined eye on design and service. Thanks to their close collaboration with Alexandre Danan from EDO European Design Office, the interiors ensure that what is a relatively petite hotel boasts plenty of big design features. With sixty rooms, a spa by Cinq Mondes, an underground swimming pool with glass ceiling looking up to the Paris sky, and Odette restaurant by the esteemed Rostang family, it’s easy to see why the Falcos are billing Paris Céline as their flagship property.

Guest rooms and suites and bedecked in velvet, wood, leather and brass, with an abundance of marble in the bathrooms. All look out onto either the street in front or an internal courtyard, with the notable exception of the 1923 Room, a large space on the top floor that boasts 180-degree views of the city from its huge floor-to-ceiling windows.

If you do manage to drag yourself away from your luxurious lodgings and the hotel’s top-end on-site facilities, Paris Céline is located in the city’s prime 1st arrondissement, known for its historic buildings and extravagant surroundings near Notre Dame, the Louvre and Les Halles, and just a few minutes from the Seine. And though the luxury fashion house that led the way in haute couture has long since moved to other premises, the connection with the world of fashion still remains, with the high-end boutiques of the Rue de Rivoli just a short stroll away from this fashionable yet wonderfully welcoming hotel. www.maison-albar-hotel-paris-celine.com

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Escapism 2017.pdf

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SOMETIMES, REALITY IS BETTER THAN IMAGINATION

reservation@chedimuscat.com chedimuscat.com

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SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL PALÁCIO TANGARÁ São Paulo-born landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx's designs of parks and gardens made him world famous. You can see Burle Marx’s work all over the world, from Miami to Kuala Lumpur. The density of the flora and botanicals combined with an inherent jungle vibe make visitors and residents alike fall in love with Burle Marx Park, a veritable oasis in the centre of São Paulo's vibrant urban landscape, located in a wealthy area surrounded by imposing and unique buildings which frame the park.

Embraced by Burle Marx Park, prestigious Oetker Collection’s newest hospitality masterpiece, Palácio Tangará, which was unveiled to the world on 10th May 2017, provides an exclusive yet verdant escape from the city that is still close enough to most landmarks, such as the MASP Museum of Art and the Jardins luxury shopping district.

Palácio Tangará was brought to life by architect Patricia Anastassiadis, who drew inspiration from Brazilian art and natural landscapes, together with interior designer Bick Simonato. Together they deftly blended the Germany-based Oetker Collection’s refined European aesthetic with traditional Brazilian elements, incorporating nods at every opportunity to the lush landscapes that lie beyond the hotel’s walls.

The Grand Lobby is hung with works by artist Laura Vinci which echo the same greenery found in Burle Marx Park. The Burle Bar features photographs of the Amazon rainforest by Cristian Cravo, Araquem Alcantara and Alessandro Gruetzmacher. In Tangará Jean-Georges - Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first restaurant in the Southern Hemisphere - a green carpet imitates the bottom of the lake and reflection of the forest on the water.

To further remind guests of the incredible landscapes outside, the interior colour palette of the each of the 82 guest rooms and 59 suites is blue, beige, grey and green, with the focal point of each being its private balcony or terrace where guests can soak in the sweeping views of the city and park.

Meanwhile the hotel's Flora Spa has six treatment rooms with experiences designed by Sisley-Paris, the fitness centre has state-of-the-art equipment by Technogym, a half-Olympic heated indoor pool and an acclimatised outdoor 20-metre pool. www.palaciotangara.com/eng

Live the holidays you’ve always dreamed of , under the shadow of Holy Mount Athos, a UNESCO World Heritage Monument in Greece… …welcome to Avaton Luxury Villas Resort!

Halkidiki, Greece

www.avaton.com

SEMINYAK, BALI KATAMAMA Katamama is little brother to seminal Seminyak favourite Potato Head Beach Club, known for its multi-cultural blend of gastronomy, libations and entertainment that skilfully combines music, art and fashion in one inimitable venue. Since PHBC has given visitors to the Indonesian island some of their most memorable and fun experiences to date, you know you’re in safe hands at 57-room Katamama, a striking resort just 45-minutes drive from the airport, located in the fashionable Petitenget district of Seminyak. Complete with on-site dining, beachfront access and a multitude of vibrant bars and restaurants and funky shops and boutiques within a stone’s throw makes Katamama perfectly positioned for those hedonists visiting Bali looking to experience the best the island’s party and beach scenes have to offer.

Whilst every detail at Katamama has been handmade or handpicked using some of Indonesia's centuries-old traditions, this is a hotel that isn’t afraid to make a statement. The striking brutalist red brick architecture sets the contemporary-meets-traditional tone, whilst sartorial sophistication permeates the interior where mid-century furniture, statement lighting, contemporary art and moody hues add good looking decorative clout to buzzing cocktail bar The Akademi and rather excellent MoVida restaurant, all presided over by funky tablet-wielding servers.

Guest rooms are bedecked with denim rugs, brightly coloured weaves, edgy Indonesian artworks and retro low-slung furniture. Whilst most of the accommodation doesn’t offer especially amazing views, all boast big bathrooms with monsoon showers and soaking tubs, and cool cocktail bars stocked with fine infused spirits, natural syrups and aromatic bitters. Book a Rooftop Suite for a decent view of the Indian Ocean, or a Pool Suite for a private plunge pool. If you’re a pop star, wannabe DJ or both, the sprawling palatial 320m2 Katamama Suite is a veritable self-contained two-bedroomed party pad, complete with rooftop garden, giant Jacuzzi and outdoor shower. www.katamama.com

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NEW YORK, U.S.A. THE WHITBY Firmdale's much-anticipated second New York property, The Whitby, opened a couple of months ago, marking the eclectic hotel brand’s second Manhattan location after The Crosby opened in 2009.

Conceptualised and hand fashioned by Kit Kemp - Firmdale's co-owner and chief interior designer - The Whitby is located in Midtown Manhattan on West 56th Street at 5th Avenue, just two blocks from Central Park, allowing easy access to many of New York's leading eateries, shops and museums. Whilst obviously showcasing Kemp’s quirky English eclecticism, The Whitby feels a touch more adult in its design, attitude and positioning, although no less full of decorative flourishes and fanciful touches incorporating fun twists, with contemporary art and the lavish use of bold patterns and characterful textiles again forming part of the interior design palette.

The Whitby incorporates a private state-of-the-art screening room with comfy leather seating for 130 and advanced Dolby Atmos sound and projection technology including 3D capability. Meanwhile The Whitby Bar & Restaurant is a rich, colourful and airy high-ceilinged space, dominated by a gorgeous 30-foot pewter bar and beautifully upholstered banquette seating.

Upstairs 86 individually designed rooms and suites in eleven categories spread over sixteen floors all feature floor-to-ceiling windows and handsomely designed bathrooms. Many also boast private terraces – with outside space being something of a rarity in central Manhattan this is a huge attraction to visitors.

The hotel’s crowning glory is The Whitby Suite which occupies the entire top floor and boasts two king size bedrooms, two oversized white marble bathrooms, a large living cum dining room, guest powder room and kitchen, plus two sweeping terraces offering stunning views of New York from different sides of the hotel. www.firmdalehotels.com

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MALDIVES SONEVA JANI It’s really a wonder that the Maldives hasn’t yet run out of islands upon which to build deluxe resorts! Founded by Sonu and Eva Shivdasani - he a British-Indian businessman and she a former Swedish model - their first hotel, Soneva Fushi, opened in 1995 and pioneered around-the-clock butler service, a strong environmental code and a determination to completely disconnect visitors from the stresses of the outside world: On arrival guests are politely asked to remove their shoes which are slipped into linen bags until they leave the island. Soneva Gili followed five years later showcasing the first overwater villas in the Maldives. Unveiled in October 2016 – almost twenty-two years after opening their first Maldives resort – Soneva Jani is the latest masterstroke from the Soneva team, a company which has skilfully redefined luxury vacationing for a new affluent, seasoned and demanding generation of holidaymakers.

Soneva Jani consists of five little sand and palm-fringed islets, set in a spectacular kaleidoscopic lagoon in the Noonu Atoll. Snaking off the biggest island - a former vegetable farm - is a 1.8km jetty connected to just two dozen palatial overwater villas, each one bigger than some hotels. The largest can comfortably accommodate a family of ten. But whilst the scale of the villas may be extraordinary, everything else about this resort is sophisticatedly understated, thanks in large part to Eva, the interior design guru, who showcases beautiful yet functional Scandinavian restraint in all of Soneva Jani’s individually designed villas. Each one light and bright with vaulted ceilings, bamboo floors and white rattan furniture, is a lesson in how to execute luxury, functionality and style in absolutely perfect Maldivian unity. Think oval windows, portholes in the floors revealing the marine life below, push-button retractable ceilings above the beds to unveil the starry night skies above, and round sunken sofas littered with hand-dyed soft furnishings from Sri Lanka. Some villas even feature water slides. Every detail has been carefully considered and lovingly executed, and it’s this level of attention and detailing which make Soneva resorts so achingly beautiful and uniquely special. www.soneva.com/soneva-jani

ROTTERDAM

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DAWN GIBSON EXPLORES HOLLAND’S ARCHITECTURALLY RICH PORT CITY

VIEW FROM EUROMAST TOWER

DD

ootted with some of the most head-turning ccontemporary architecture in the world, Rotterdam is a sublimely striking modern metropolis and one off EEurope’s ’ most distinctive cities. Re-invented as a matter of necessity after the centre was almost completely destroyed during WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically positioned North Sea port, at the mouth of the Nieuwe Maas, is an ever evolving tribute to the vision of future thinking international architects, including renowned Rotterdam-born Rem Koolhaas. The glittering blue waterfront and wide well kept thoroughfares are flanked by futuristic skyscrapers that compete to be noticed. Yet the soaring creations of glass, steel and chrome are interspersed at street level with a plethora of modern art and sympathetic landscaping that keep the mood friendly

and human. And beyond the award-winning architecture, numerous unique facets are contributing to the growing reputation of the nation’s second city as a chic alternative for cultured travellers, especially amongst those international adventurers seeking something different to the same old city break destinations.

While it will never rival Amsterdam’s reputation for hedonism, Rotterdam has a more nuanced ability to delight in a way that has found favour with an increasing number of in-the-know visitors. As Europe’s largest cargo port it seems a most unlikely contender for the latest hip, happening and cultural destination. However, initial impressions are often deceiving, just as much as for cities as for people. Gaze beyond the bustling port known as the

“Dotted with some of the most head-turning contemporary architecture in the world, Rotterdam is a sublimely striking modern metropolis and one of Europe’s most distinctive cities ”

ERASMUSBRUG

‘Gateway to Europe’ and suddenly a multitude of world-class art galleries and museums come into view, within an easy stroll from charming streets bursting with bohemian cafés and lively clubs.

Gourmands will relish the Michelin-starred establishments, including two-star FG Restaurant, Parkheuvel and Restaurant Fred, as well as one-star eateries Joelia, FG Food Labs and Amarone. Well-informed foodie sources say it’s only a matter of time before some more stars are sprinkled about, which is a considerable achievement given that Rotterdam is a relatively small city of just over 600,000. But whilst the number of inhabitants may be small they certainly know how to party, with a very full calendar of festivals, exhibitions, cultural and sporting events, including

Koningsdag (King’s Day) in April and Europe’s second biggest Caribbean carnival in July (www.en.rotterdam.info).

Within the cityscape itself plenty of surprises abound. Walk the streets or jump on a water taxi and you will soon discover that, while most of Rotterdam is bold and modern, there are pockets of the old town waiting to be discovered down quiet laneways and sleepy canals, telling snippets of a fascinating maritime story that started when a little fishing village sprung up beside a dam built in the Rotte River around 1270. Elegant canal houses are not as ubiquitous as in Amsterdam, but they are there if you care to look, as are smart gingerbread and cream 19th century mansions, the status symbols of an era when some made their fortune on the seas and others gathered on the nearby docks to Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 47

emigrate en masse, hoping that better luck was waiting for them in the New World.

While yesteryear’s travellers would arrive and depart by steamship, these days Rotterdam is well serviced by numerous airlines flying into RTM airport as well as much larger Schiphol, the latter providing the most choice in terms of fares and flight times. From Schiphol take a fast 30-minute train ride to Rotterdam’s Centraal station - with more than 80 trains daily it’s a faster option than the 45-minute drive. Rotterdam has a very efficient and extensive public transport network well connected to RET intercity and inter-country trains, so unless you’re planning to drive out of the city you won’t need a hire car. A three-day Rotterdam Welcome Card, providing unlimited travel within the RET metro, tram and bus network, costs EUR 20 and includes discounts at various attractions

silhouette of one of the 1990s most talked about buildings, the Kunsthal, a glass-fronted gallery for contemporary art, designed by Koolhaas. (www.kunsthal.nl/en). In case you have any doubt about the building’s purpose, there is a sculpture of a camel and his driver by Henk Visch perched jauntily on the roof. In brilliant contrast, a short distance across the road is the Koningin Emmaplein (Queen Emmaplein), an enchanting semi-circle of neo-Renaissance red brick mansions arranged around a central square, built in the late 19th century for the elite business community. I am unsure if the stark juxtaposition is by clever design or coincidence, but it seems as apt a symbol of Rotterdam’s contrasting faces as any I come across. To reach Euromast I cross Het Park - a calming Central Park-style expanse of lush greenery and established botanicals.

“Re-invented as a matter of necessity after the centre was almost completely destroyed during WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically positioned North Sea port is an ever evolving tribute to the vision of future thinking international architects ”

(www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com). Meanwhile get your bearings before you leave home by downloading the free Rotterdam Tourist Info app that incorporates an events calendar and handy overview of the city’s Wi-Fi spots.

My first of a four-day visit is fresh and breezy, as I head out from Hotel New York to walk to Euromast, an observation tower that promises unrivalled panoramic views (www.euromast.nl). My route takes me across the iconic Erasmusbrug, an impressive steel suspension bridge that links the north and south of the city across the Maas, affectionally dubbed ‘The Swan’ by locals because of its distinctive shape. Making sure to stay out of the path of the dozens of speedy cyclists, I turn left onto the Westzeedijk, a wide, soulless thoroughfare which skirts the border of the Museumpark. Walking past, I easily spot the wide, low

Euromast was built in 1960 to an original height of 100 metres before being extended upwards to 185 a decade later. When I visit the tower is on the verge of a two-week closure for renovations, including a facelift to the restaurant and a lick of paint to the exterior. I enjoy a divine lunch at the restaurant while relishing the sweeping views of the city beneath my feet. Afterwards I board a circular elevator that slowly revolves, giving a 360° panorama of the city through giant windows as it rises to the very top. It’s a wonderful way to literally get a big picture – I could see all the way back along the route I had just walked, to the Erasmus Bridge and the three linked towers of the largest building in the Netherlands, De Rotterdam (another Koolhaas design); across the water to the former Chinatown precinct of Katendrecht and moored ship SS Rotterdam. To cap it off, after a slightly sullen start to the day, the sun breaks RATHAUS

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SUMMER CARNIVAL

CENTRAL STATION

EUROMAST PARK

WESTERSINGEL, ARTWORK ‘SYLVETTE’ BY PABLO PICASSO (1970)

Terms & conditions apply. Hyatt ™ and Grand Hyatt ™ names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2017 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

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through the clouds just as I am retrieving my camera from my bag, giving the sky a photo-perfect soft wash of blue like a watercolour painting.

As I explore further during the next few days, I decide that walking is the most enjoyable way to get around since there is so much to see en route. The Westersingel sculpture trail is a perfect example. Start at Rotterdam Centraal – a work of art in its own right with its dramatic solar panel-clad roof – and walk along the Westersingel canal towards Westzeedijk. The route features 17 works from the city’s international collection, including many by prominent names such as Rodin, Carel Visser and Joel Shapiro. The canal setting complements the art well – the sculptures seamlessly blending into the urban landscape, providing much welcome aesthetically beautiful

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LAURENSKERK

“While it will never rival Amsterdam’s reputation for hedonism, Rotterdam has a more nuanced ability to delight in a way that has found favour with an increasing number of in-the-know visitors ”

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distractions. The sculptures are very much a cultural amuse-bouche, whetting one’s artistic appetite for the sights within Museumpark at the southern end of Westersingel. The park includes Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen housing a world-class collection of Dutch and European masterpieces (www.boijmans.nl/en), The New Institute of architecture, fashion, design and e-culture, and a rather good natural history museum (www.cityguiderotterdam.com).

Once you have had your fill of museums, walk back to the Westersingel and amble down the Witte de Withstraat, the city’s artistic heart, lined with galleries, avante garde fashion boutiques, hipster cafes, restaurants and bars. Immerse yourself in new media art and underground films at

MARKTHAL

alternative cultural centre WORM (www.worm.org), or while away an hour at the Witte de With Center for Contemporary Art (www.wdw.nl/en/). The Witte de Withkwartier is a cool place to find yourself as day turns to night, as it’s well known for its vibrant pub, club and restaurant scene. Visit Supermercado for feisty Latin American fare and chilled tequilas (www.supermercadorotterdam.nl), Café LaBru for relaxed drinks with friends (www.facebook.com/pg/CafeLaBru) and underground Wunderbar for quirky craft beers (www.worm.org/venues/wunderbar/).

Another neighbourhood with an intriguing past and present is the Laurenskwartier. The district is home to the only building that survives from medieval times, Church of St.

Lawrence (Laurenskerk) built between 1449 and 1525, which now stands proudly beside some of Rotterdam’s most cutting-edge contemporary structures, including Piet Blom’s famous Cube Houses, and one of the city’s newest landmarks, MVRDV’s spectacular Markthal, a space-age horseshoe of apartments looped over a covered market hall (www.markthal.nl/en). Step inside Markthal’s enormous entrance arch and be prepared to be parted from your Euros.

The interior is a gastronomic wonderland of colours, smells and textures, with stalls offering a boggling variety of processed meats, pyramids of yellow, crimson and smoky brown spices, fresh seafood laid out on beds of ice, and, of course, dozens of varieties of cheese. One of the more unusual items I spotted was a shiitake mushroom growing kit – a curious, pale brown stump that looked like it was

missing a goblin atop it! I eventually settled on some handmade chocolates and rounds of Edam cheese on the basis that they would be easier to get home. Buoyed with my purchases I caught a metro across town to explore an entirely different pocket of Rotterdam, and one that I had been relishing visiting since I first hearing of it: Delfshaven.

Like Laurenskerk, Delfshaven is one of the jewels of the old city that miraculously survived the 1940 bombardment. A short walk from the river near Euromast, it may as well be in another world to the busy streets surrounding it. Stroll along Delfshaven’s herringbone-paved lanes alongside the canal, and the sounds of cars and trams fade into the distance, replaced by the tinkle of bicycle bells and the soft chatter of old friends sitting outside cafés. Old-fashioned street lamps line the waterfront, and it is so quiet that I can hear a church bell chime the hour as I walk along admiring the boats moored in the little marina. Dating back to 1389, Delfshaven has a wonderfully rich history: it was the departure point for the Pilgrim Fathers on their journey to the Americas and the birthplace of Dutch maritime hero Piet Hein. Previously home to herring fishermen and gin distillers, the tall, handsome canal houses are now used as art studios, antique stores, gin bars and beer breweries. I stop for a drink at one of the pocket-sized pubs and then wander back outside, where the light of the afternoon is fading swiftly into evening shadows. A pair of ducks is waddling around near a parked bicycle on the other side of the street. They look like a good subject for a photo, so I bring out my camera and walk slowly towards them, hoping I can get close enough. But, despite my best efforts, they see me – and to my surprise, instead of shuffling away, they move closer to pose cheekily for the camera, entirely unafraid and clearly enjoying the attention. I get my picture and wander back along the canal front, where the lights of the lamps and the houses create a fairylike glow over the water. Walking to a nearby street to catch a tram back to my hotel is a rushed jolt back to the present, full of urban noise and bright glaring neon. The tram rattles down the track and through the window I see once again the sleek shapes of new offices and apartments climbing into the evening sky, more cranes on the horizon, the epitome of an up-to-the-minute hub. However it is the glimpses of the city’s multi-layered past, the ghosts of seafarers and fishermen, merchants and pilgrims, which give Rotterdam its charismatic heart. Old and new, side-by-side, seamlessly fused in one dynamic, innovative, constantly moving city – this is the uniqueness, energy and essence of Rotterdam.

ALSTERARKADEN

“Walk the streets or jump on a water taxi and you will soon discover that, while most of Rotterdam is bold and modern, there are pockets of the old town waiting to be discovered down quiet laneways and sleepy canals �

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STAY HOTEL NEW YORK While numerous hotels around the globe are promoted as iconic landmarks, the Hotel New York has a far more compelling claim than most.

The former headquarters of the Holland America Line, this grand old maritime lady is steeped in history, from its boardrooms and now luxurious master suites, to the original art deco furnishings and spectacular wrought iron central staircase. Presiding regally over the end of Wilhelmina Pier since 1901, the building was the departure point for hundreds of thousands of emigrants leaving the Old World for America in the dawning decades of the 20th century. Reincarnated as a hotel in 1993, the property is now part of Dutch hospitality group WestCord Hotels.

Hotel New York is located on the south side of Erasmus Bridge, 15 minutes by train or taxi from Rotterdam’s Centraal station. One of its most charming selling points is the sheer variety in its 72 rooms, many of which overlook the Maas. Not least there are dual aspect corner rooms and two quirky tower rooms with spiral staircases leading to the roof. The Cultured Traveller stayed in one of the spacious 53m2 boardroom suites on the first floor, of which there are only two. Big picture windows set into curved wood-panelled walls look over the river, and a large oval bath is set in front of the windows so you can watch the boats as you soak. It is a slightly strange experience, especially given that you may be bathing where the chairman of the board once dictated his letters. The décor is reminiscent of an old-fashioned gentlemen’s club - all deep purple velvet furnishings and art deco lamps, even a grand open fireplace, lit upon request. The absence of a mini-bar is more than compensated by attentive room service delivered by genuinely friendly and highly professional staff. I had several chats with doorman Arie, who initially came to deliver a glass of red and light the fire. For those who crave opulence but are not keen on purple velvet, the second boardroom in a more subdued palette of white and cream is a less dramatic choice.

Since the hotel is popular with both locals and visitors alike, the ground floor café-restaurant is usually busy from early morning until late at night, especially on the weekends, serving buffet breakfasts, à la carte lunches and dinners and afternoon teas of sinfully delicious cream cakes. There’s also an oyster counter and a long pub-style bar. For a more intimate backdrop head downstairs to the recently opened NY Basement for contemporary European cuisine and inventive handcrafted cocktails plus a side order of live jazz. Conveniently Hotel New York also boasts its own water taxi station directly outside.

With walls that could tell a thousand stories and a historic past deeply ingrained into the building’s very structure, dropping anchor at Hotel New York is undoubtedly a highly memorable stay experience. Part oversized boutique hotel and part antique treasure, this classy old lady is looking exquisitely good for her years. www.hotelnewyork.com 56 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

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STAY ROTTERDAM MARRIOTT HOTEL Its prime downtown location and generously sized rooms are the main attractions of the Marriott, which confidently bills itself as Rotterdam’s leading hotel. Situated directly opposite the main train station, the hotel occupies the first 15 floors of a glass and steel tower that is entirely in tune with the vibrant, up-to-the-minute streetscape of one of Europe’s trendiest ports.

The hotel has undergone extensive interior redesign works since it was rebranded a Marriott just over a year ago. Many of the 230 guest rooms and suites have been redecorated in a sophisticated colour palette of delicate cream, biscuit brown and soft grey, and kitted out with furniture that nods to the city’s obsession with sleek and cool design. Rooms range from 30m2 for a superior room (which is fairly large considering it is prime city centre locale), to a sumptuous Presidential Suite featuring separate living and dining rooms and all the usual mod cons you’d expect from a top-end Dutch hospitality entertaining pad. Whilst executive rooms and suites include Illy espresso machines, complimentary breakfast and access to an exclusive 10th floor lounge, it’s the views that really set the Rotterdam Marriott Hotel apart. Many rooms offer amazing vistas, giving guests a bird’s eye view of some of the most cutting-edge architecture on the planet.

The Cultured Traveller stayed in a newly redecorated corner suite on the twelfth floor with giant sound-proofed windows on two sides, providing a sweeping panorama of the city. Sitting on a cushioned window seat, one could watch commuters scurrying along like ants on the bustling Westersingel below. Directly opposite the hotel is Calypso, a 22-floor luxury apartment complex with bright red accents, designed by British architect Will Alsop to appear as if it is floating. As day turned to night, and the towers lit up all the way to the Erasmus Bridge in the distance, it all became a somewhat mesmerising spectacle.

The hotel has two distinct F&B offerings: the Breakfast Brasserie which is an expansive space overlooking the hotel front and the station, and Pillars Bar & Restaurant, an all-day dining venue offering a diverse menu of international fare, just off the ground floor lobby. It’s worth booking at least one evening meal at Pillars to experience the three-course chef’s menu, which during my visit featured halibut ceviche, slow-cooked beef with beech mushrooms and pumpkin cream, and, to finish, an utterly divine pyramid of pear parfait with hazelnut foam. All for a rather reasonable EUR 34.50. As one would expect this was, of course, complemented by an extensive wine list as well as several varieties of local craft beers and a range of gins.

If you’re looking for a contemporary, well-appointed inner city base, Rotterdam Marriott Hotel ticks all the right boxes and much more. Efficient and comfortable, and offering just the right mix of sophistication and service, make this particular property the perfect counterbalance to a boutique hotel for a two-centre stay within Holland’s charismatic port city. www.marriottrotterdam.com

SEE MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN If you are going to visit just one gallery in Rotterdam, Boijmans and Kunsthal are the top two contenders. One of the Netherlands’ oldest museums, its collection is built on the legacy of jurist Frans Jacob Otto Boijmans, who left his personal collection to the city in 1849. In 1958 the name of benefactor Daniël George van Beuningen was added to the museum after the acquisition of his collection, which now includes a swathe of Dutch and European masterpieces spanning the Middle Ages to the present day, including works by Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Bosch, Bruegel, Dali and Munch. Intimate galleries and large salons unusually allow a large proportion of Boijmans’ art to be viewed in natural light. www.boijmans.nl KUNSTHAL More cultural centre than museum and heralded by many as an icon of modern architecture, the Kunsthal was unveiled to the public in 1992 and has set tongues wagging ever since. Designed by Rotterdam’s most famous architect, Rem Koolhaas, with project architect Fuminori Hoshino from Rotterdam company OMA, the building won huge international acclaim for its innovative design and use of materials. It appears at first glance to be a fairly unimpressive large flat box, but upon closer inspection every façade is different. Inside, seven exhibition spaces host continually changing temporary displays of new wave design, fashion, photography, digital art and modern masterpieces, with several cutting-edge exhibitions often on display at the same time. www.kunsthal.nl

MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN

SS ROTTERDAM The former flagship of the Holland America Line, SS Rotterdam is now permanently moored in its homeport as a novel hotel, dining venue and floating party palace.

In its 1960s heyday, the 228-metre former ocean liner was a familiar sight on the Atlantic as it powered between Rotterdam and New York laden with well-heeled passengers. These days you can imagine yourself back in the romantic age of steam while sipping a cocktail on the terrace and gazing out across the city, lingering over lunch at The Lido or the Club Room, or spending the night in one of the ship’s 254 hotel rooms.

You can also take a tour of the bow, bridge and engine rooms. ‘La Grande Dame’ as SS Rotterdam is 60 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

KUNSTHAL

SS ROTTERDAM

affectionately known, is located at the tip of the Katendrecht peninsula. www.ssrotterdam.com SPIDO CRUISES It would be a shame to visit such a historic port and not see the sights from the water. The sleek fleet of Spido vessels run a range of cruises most days of the year, departing from the base of Erasmus Bridge. A 75-minute harbour tour is enough to see Rotterdam's impressive skyline with its imposing buildings, together with the harbour’s shipyards and docks. Better still buy a hop-on hop-off bus and Spido boat ticket to make best use of both transport modes for a full day (www.spido.nl). For a cruising experience with a culinary edge, take to the Maas on “The Pancake Boat” whilst munching on all the pancakes you can eat laden with a variety of scrummy toppings. www.pannenkoekenboot.nl CUBE HOUSES Along with Erasmus Bridge and the city’s skyline, the Cube Houses are one of the most recognised symbols of Rotterdam. Designed by Dutch architect Piet Blom, at first glance they appear to be completely unliveable, but step inside the fully furnished Kijk-Kubus (Show-Cube), and you will soon discover how it’s possible to reside in such an unusual dwelling. Each house represents a tree with the whole development designed to symbolise a woodland. In Dutch the area is called ‘Blaakse Bos’ which literally translates to Blaakse Wood. The Cube Houses border the Laurenskwartier district and waterfront area, within easy walking distance of the Markthal, Oude Haven and the Laurenskerk. www.en.rotterdam.info

INTERNATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

CRUISING SPIDO

LAURENSKERK Built on the banks of the River Rotte between 1449 and 1525, Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk (or Church of St. Lawrence) is literally the only building to have survived from the medieval city centre and is a potent emblem of the community’s ability to endure. Heavily damaged during the bombing of Rotterdam in WWII, the building underwent extensive repair work and now stands in marked contrast to the modern architecture that surrounds it. Along with regular services and an interesting permanent exhibition, the church hosts concerts, tours, exhibitions and receptions, and you can climb the 65-metre tower on Wednesdays and Saturdays from April through October. www.laurenskerkrotterdam.nl 62 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

CUBE HOUSES

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AMARONE

TASTE AMARONE For superb contemporary French cuisine that tastes as good as it looks, Amarone is hard to beat. Situated on one of Rotterdam’s most stylish streets, the restaurant had been open just 15 months when it was awarded a Michelin star. This reflected the commitment of owner-chef Gert Blom and his tight-knit team, to the creation of innovative dishes using quality ingredients prepared to a consistently high standard. A decade later sees Amarone continue to glean regular widespread praise. Elegant, sophisticated and decorated in a palette of neutral colours, the restaurant houses a walk-in wine room of more than 500 different vintages. Highly recommended is the truffle risotto, a creamy concoction of simple goodness that will have you yearning for more. The three-course lunch menu is good value at EUR 37.50. www.restaurantamarone.nl PARKHEUVEL Considered one of the best restaurants in the Netherlands, Parkheuvel is known for its two Michelin stars and beautiful setting at the front of Het Park, near Euromast, with gorgeous views over the Nieuwe Maas and Rotterdam Harbour. The restaurant is housed in a modern pavilion, built in 1988, with an art deco interior that boasts river views from every table.

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PARKHEUVEL

There is also an outdoor terrace, naturally with views, which is the place to dine during the warmer months. Chef Erik van Loo, who runs the restaurant with his wife Anja, is famous for his innovative take on classic mostly French-based dishes.

Signatures include chicken ravioli with langoustines and oysters with salsify, potato rosti and Perle Imperial caviar. www.parkheuvel.nl FG If you’re a fan of the Heston Blumenthal school of cooking then FG will be right up your culinary street. Head chef Francois Geurds was formerly a sous chef at The Fat Duck, Blumenthal’s temple to molecular cuisine. Guerds’ flagship restaurant FG, has earned two Michelin stars, whilst its sibling, FG Food Labs, has one star. A visit to a Geurds establishment is a veritable fine dining adventure, with dishes prepared using liquid nitrogen, presented in an unusual fashion and featuring the marriage of ingredients you never thought you’d see on the same plate. There’s a ‘fragrance table’ in the kitchen, and guests in the private dining room sit under an inverted garden of plants hanging from the ceiling. Set menus range from a EUR 45 three-course lunch to a EUR 185 eight-course dégustation experience. www.fgrestaurant.nl/en

FG

NY BASEMENT With a fabulous long cocktail bar and décor inspired by pre-war Manhattan, NY Basement is a novel recent addition to Rotterdam’s restaurant scene that looks like it should feature in The Great Gatsby. Downstairs from the main restaurant at the historic Hotel New York at the end of Wilhelmina Pier, NY Basement features a buzzing open kitchen, cosy banquette seating and salmon-hued walls adorned with black and white photos of musical greats. Live jazz features regularly so it’s wise to check with the hotel if you want to catch an act. From the modern European menu we recommend the juicy grilled sirloin and terrifically tart lemon pie, but don’t leave without ordering at least one cocktail: TCT’s pick is the strong but fruity Angels & Tongues made with Dutch spirits, vermouth, apple thyme cordial and grapefruit bitters. Did we mention that it’s strong? www.nybasement.nl JOELIA With an airy feel and lustrous contemporary décor, Joelia is the gastronomic equivalent to Rotterdam’s cutting-edge office towers. Based on the Coolsingel side of the Hilton hotel, with views over the city centre, it is a perfect spot to unwind at the end of a long day working or sight-seeing over a selection of dishes by renowned chef Mario Ridder, washed down with an

JOELIA

POFFERTJES

excellent glass of wine or two. The menu at the Michelin-starred eatery is eclectic and intriguing, featuring French themed fare with a twist, divided into sections entitled ‘culinary trip’, ‘Mario’s favorites’ and ‘all the way’. To give you a taste, the hedonistic ‘all the way’ features crab and caviar, lobster, wagyu beef and vanilla soufflé with blood orange. Diners can also indulge in a six or eight-course ‘culinary trip’ menu. www.joelia.eu POFFERTJESSALON SETH It might be a mouthful to pronounce for those of us who don’t speak Dutch, but all you really need to know is that Poffertjessalon Seth makes delicious, traditional little Dutch pancakes. Made according to the secret Seth family recipe, the pancakes are typically presented as a simple dish with powdered sugar and butter, though you can opt for added extras such as raisins, fruit, whipped cream or liquor. The authentic décor adds to the experience – think wooden benches, bright Brabant curtains, Tiffany lamps and Anton Pieck paintings. Located opposite Markthal on Hoogstraat, this is the ideal place to pit stop for some tasty nosh after some serious shopping. It’s worth knowing that you can use a Rotterdam Welcome Card for a 50% discount on Poffertjessalon Seth’s pancakes. www.poffertjessalonseth.nl Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 67

SIP DE WITTE AAP Witte de Withkwartier is the vibrant heart of the Rotterdam art scene and is renowned for some of the most dynamic nightlife in the city. At its heart, for many years, has been the famous White Monkey, one of the most popular pubs in Rotterdam. This fairly cosy bar on Witte de Withstraat is usually filled to the rafters with locals, especially during summer, and a bohemian crowd is regularly seen spilling out onto its terrace. De Witte Aap is known for its friendly service and a great soundtrack – there’s live music on Wednesdays and DJs on Saturdays – and is a reliable place to start a night on the tiles with a Dutch beer or two. www.facebook.com/dewitteaap BALLROOM Still on Witte de Withstraat, one of the newest editions to the street is the trendy Ballroom gin and tonic bar. Stocking more than 160 types of gin – which the establishment claims is the biggest collection in Europe – there’s something for every lover of the famous tipple, ranging in flavour from fresh to sweet, herby to spicy and floral to citrus.

There’s also a reasonable selection of nibbles to accompany your sipping on the terrace, at the bar or in the secret garden. Try the Bitterballen – a traditional Dutch meat-based snack – or the Ballplate selection. A resident DJ lays down funk, soul and groove on Friday and Saturday nights. www.ballroomrotterdam.nl THE STIRR Labelled by The Lonely Planet as arguably the best cocktail house in the country, this little gem of a speakeasy cum living room cum cocktail bar is well worth the trouble of searching out. Located off Eendrachtweg, parallel to Westersingel, The Stirr was the brainchild of four local bartenders who realised their dream with the proceeds of a crowd-funding campaign. The ambience is hipster chic – think exposed brick walls, moustaches and a laid-back attitude – while the cocktails are deliciously bespoke.

The owners create their own recipes, not just for the cocktails but also for the base syrups used in the cocktails, and they will happily mix you a special drink based on your mood and tastes. www.thestirr.nl 68 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

DE WITTE APP

THE STIRR

BALLROOM

THE VIP ROOM

THE SUICIDE CLUB Rooftop bars are having a moment – when aren’t they, frankly? – and The Suicide Club is Rotterdam’s nod to this trend. Located right in the centre, opposite Rotterdam Centraal, this is the perfect setting to appreciate the city’s funky architecture while sipping a chilled cocktail on a balmy summer night. The list includes a good mix of originals and re-invented classics – we dare you to try ‘Sky Is The Limit’, a heady mix of vodka, sambuca, dark chocolate and blood orange, or the fabulously named ‘Unicorn & Lions’, a gin-based cocktail with velvet falernum (a spiced sweet citrus syrup), aperol and rhubarb. There are also sharing nibbles that are a definite cut above bar food, including oysters served with watermelon salsa, and dumplings with beef and escargot. www.thesuicideclub.nl THE VIP ROOM With the slogan of a ‘no frills club in a no nonsense city’ The VIP Room on Stadhuisplein, just off the Coolsingel, is an old-school style club lounge that attracts a fair number of Rotterdam’s party people on any given night. Washed with violet lighting, the décor of the multi-levelled main floor area nods to the Orient with Buddha statues and lantern style lighting, and there’s usually a solid line-up of Dutch and special guest DJs keeping the place pumping and energy levels up. There’s also a terrace that pays homage to Nikki Beach style al fresco clubs.

Weekends are naturally the busiest, but The VIP Room is also very popular for its chic Monday night gatherings. www.theviproom.eu BAR TENDER The first shooter bar in Rotterdam, Bar Tender offers a dizzying array of 200 different shots to help you get your night started with a bang. It’s a cosy little place, with a luminous bar and a cheery interior and colourful paintings adorning the walls. During the week Bar Tender is fairly laid back, but on the weekends the shot kings love to put on a show with fiery extravaganzas that literally light up the bar.

Get your lips around a Bazooka or a Harry Potter – or TCT’s favourite for its dramatic appeal, the classic Flaming Lamborghini. Bar Tender is on the Coolsingel, near the junction with Aert van Nesstraat. www.bar-tender.nl 86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

THE SUICIDE CLUB

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MARKTHAL

DEPOT ROTTERDAM

SPEND MARKTHAL One of Rotterdam’s newest architectural landmarks, Markthal is hard to miss, and equally hard to escape from once you find yourself mesmerized by the bounty of gourmet treasures inside. Designed by MVRDV and opened in 2014, the innovative covered market hall houses an eclectic collection of stalls, selling everything from fresh and packaged foodstuffs, gourmet cheeses and meats, to handcrafted truffles and chocolates. It’s a perfect place to pick up gifts. If you’re interested in the foodie scene, it is also worth checking out the much smaller but very well regarded Fenix Food Factory, an artisanal food market in a former warehouse on the Katendrecht peninsula. www.markthal.nl/en DE BIJENKORF As the Netherlands’ leading luxury department store brand, De Bijenkorf has been catering to well-heeled Dutch shoppers since 1870. Founded as a humble haberdashery, De Bijenkorf has for many years operated flagship stores in Rotterdam, Amsterdam and The Hague. The Rotterdam store, in front of the Beurs-World Trade Center on the Coolsingel, is the place to go in the port city for designer items by the likes of Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Hermès. It’s worth noting that shoppers who spend EUR 50 or more can get a tax refund. www.debijenkorf.nl VAN OLDENBARNEVELTSTRAAT Not far from De Bijenkorf in the Cool district, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat is a street where French designer chic meets Dutch style to create an intriguing shopping environment of cutting edge fashion and texture-filled interior boutiques, smart slow food eateries and upmarket beauty stores where you can easily lose yourself for a happy couple of hours. Combine a trip to Van Oldenbarneveltstraat with a wander down the nearby Westersingel sculpture route for a dose of retail therapy and a helping of culture in the same afternoon. www.oldenbarneveltstraatrotterdam.nl 72 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

MARGREETH OLSTHOORN

MEENT Jutting off from the main thoroughfare of Coolsingel, Meent is one of the city’s most upmarket shopping streets, featuring small specialty boutiques and gift stores alongside upmarket bars and relaxed cafés. Worth looking into are SuperTrash (85a) for its super-girlie vibe, Zola and Zola Male (60 and 73a) for hip casualwear and the Shoeclub (98) for a wide variety of funky footwear and the latest leather bags. If you need a pick-me-up during your retail therapy session, the expansive corner wine bar 1NUL8 on the corner of Meent serves great coffee and an extensive list of tipples including a rather good G&T! (www.facebook.com/1nul8). www.cityguiderotterdam.com MARGREETH OLSTHOORN A little avant-garde and a touch punk, this is the kind of store, which you will be telling friends about for months after you visit.

Margreeth Olsthoorn is well known among Rotterdam’s fashionistas for its cutting edge contemporary designer collections, by labels such as Maison Martin Margiela, Henrik Vibskov, Masnada, Leon Louis, Acne and Avelon, as well as upcoming labels such as local jewellery brand The Boyscouts. Slick, stylish and very urban, the store is on Schiedamsedijk, near the Maritime Museum. www.shop.margreetholsthoorn.nl DEPOT ROTTERDAM If you have been inspired by the style of the city and want to take a little piece of it home with you, then Depot Rotterdam is the place to go. A design consultancy, studio and shop for everything related to the home, leaning towards functional but fun and contemporary style, Depot Rotterdam showcases pieces by well-known interior designers as well as up-and-coming names. It’s also a great place for gifts. Depot Rotterdam is on the Pannekoekstraat, a short stroll from Markthal and the Laurenskerk. www.depotrotterdam.nl

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Presidential Suite The Saxon, Johannesburg

A

s South Africa’s second largest city and capital of Gauteng province, Johannesburg began as a 19th century gold-mining settlement and from such humble beginnings is now described as Africa's economic powerhouse, and the centre of a large-scale gold and diamond trade.

Although Jozi (as some affectionately refer to the city) is not South Africa’s capital, it has a remarkable history and a vibrant energy that one would expect from one of the world’s most renowned metropolitan hubs. Quite simply, Jo’burg feels and acts like a capital city and hence is developing at an incredibly rapid rate.

Located at 6,000 feet above sea level, striking views, from various vantage points, are in abundance all around Jo’burg. This is a city with a lot to offer and one that is trying very hard to banish its former reputation as a dangerous place to visit. There are still a few areas of Jo’burg where you most definitely shouldn’t wander at night, but after visiting the city twice I can honestly say I didn’t once feel threatened and found everyone to be incredibly friendly and helpful. Boasting a wealth of immersive experiences to interest even the most seasoned traveller - from the sobering reminders of the country’s past to the present day buzz of the continent’s fast-paced financial centre - it’s not hard to see why Jo’burg was once home to Nelson Mandela

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and Desmond Tutu as well as countless celebrities of today.

Saxon Hotel, Villa and Spa is nestled in Sandhurst, one of Jo’burg’s most elite suburbs. My Saxon experience begins literally as soon as I land at OR Tambo International Airport, where I’m greeted by the friendliest of hosts who deftly whisks me through passport control and into a humming private hotel car ready and waiting. Just 30-minutes later we are gliding through Jo’burg’s most sought-after residential neighbourhood, home to some of the country's wealthiest residents. Whilst you can’t see their homes behind the gated walls lining the quiet tree-lined streets it’s not difficult to imagine the grandness that lies beyond.

Gliding up the impressive driveway of the Saxon for the first time you soon see the enormity of what was once a massive private residence, set in 10 acres of magnificent landscaped gardens. This is truly a private and tranquil city retreat

like no other. From the minute I set foot in the opulent entrance hall I am surrounded by exquisite and fascinating South African artworks, a theme which continues throughout the property and is passion of the Saxon’s owner, Douw Steyn, one of South Africa’s leading captains of commerce. I am told that only 11 carefully selected local artists were commissioned to create all the works that decorate the Saxon, and South Africa’s first democratically elected president, Nelson Mandela, resided at the Saxon for six months whilst his home was under construction. It is within the walls of the Saxon that Mandela edited his autobiography, ‘Long Walk to Freedom’, and the suite he occupied during his stay at the hotel is now known as the Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite.

The Saxon has three separate villas located within its peaceful grounds, not far from the main building. It is possible to book an entire villa for exclusive use, perfect for those VIPs demanding ultimate privacy. Access to the villas is via a

striking glass-enclosed skywalk, elevated high above the driveway from the main hotel completely surrounded by trees everywhere, creating a sense of calm tranquility and ensuring guests’ privacy is maintained.

My home at the Saxon for the next three nights is 200m2 Presidential Suite 310 within villa 3, set well away from the main hotel. I’m informed that seeing other guests is something of a rarity when staying at the Saxon.

Entering via a pair of imposing double doors, Presidential Suite 310 is an opulent, sprawling and tranquil space. Once through the entrance hall I was greeted by an impressive open plan lounge and dining area that was both inviting and magnificent. Beautifully decorated in a contemporary African style of warm mushroom and deep brown tones, complimented by natural textures including stone cladding and rich timbers in various shades, light bounced of

every surface as the sun streamed in via vast floor-to-ceiling windows and huge balcony doors. The seating area boasted a mix of oversized chairs upholstered in inviting warm brown tones and occasional tables of varying sizes, making it the perfect place to relax, reflect and unwind. Like the rest of the Saxon, my suite was brimming with exquisite and unusual South African adorning every wall and alcove, including carvings, sculptures, paintings and statues. Not to mention hundred of books in which to lose oneself for a few hours. A discreet butler’s kitchen was tucked behind one wall of the lounge.

The luxe décor in the master bedroom continued the contemporary South African feel with more artworks and differing textures. Warmly decorated in rich beige and browns, wooden shutters and black out curtains ensured I slept like a baby in the sumptuous king-sized four poster which was attired in the world’s finest bed linens and came complete with a pillow menu. More comfy chairs and

coffee tables littered the bedroom together with a writing desk and separate workstation. Two separate terraces – one each off the lounge and the bedroom – were perfect for a morning cup of Earl Grey. It was then, in the crisp morning South African sunshine, as my personal butler was unpacking my luggage, that I realised how peaceful and utterly secluded my private outside spaces were.

With a noticeable lack of doors in favour of airy open plan styling, the suite flowed beautifully from room to room, effortlessly instilling in me a sense of calm and freedom. One wall - the width of the four-poster bed - separated the bedroom from the decadent bathroom. Dominated by large square his and hers sinks, an enormous free-standing soaking tub and a large stone-clad walk-in shower room, the spa-like bathroom was laden with an abundance of luxury natural and eco-friendly Africology products, fragranced with pure essential oils.

A smart touch screen panel on the night stand meant that I could control pretty

much everything within the suite from my bed. In short everything was on hand to ensure that my stay was both memorable and hassle free.

At the outset Douw Steyn set out to create South Africa’s best hotel, and during the next few days the Saxon’s attentive team certainly did their utmost to make my stay unforgettable. Relaxing and soaking up the warm South African sunshine while listening to the resident saxophonist was interspersed with visits to the Saxon’s two world-class restaurants, Qunu and Luke Del Roberts X, the latter presided over by one of South Africa's most celebrated chefs synonymous with innovative gastronomic creations. I also took traditional afternoon tea in the Piano Lounge and sipped rare single malts in Eighteen05, the first Johnnie Walker whisky bar on the African continent.

Opened in 2015 and designed by the rainbow nation’s most celebrated interior designer, Stephen Falcke, Eighteen05 is a glamorous and intimate Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 79

bar where guests are immersed in the history of the iconic whisky brand.

After so much indulgence there was just a little time left on my last day to visit the Saxon’s in-house holistic spa. A serene oasis of peace and tranquility, nestled within the heart of the hotel to a backdrop of gently cascading water features, influences of copper and Himalayan salts feature in the wide range of treatments on offer to rejuvenate one’s mind and body and promote a sense of vitality, energy and balance. My therapist was incredibly knowledgeable and expertly tailored my divine massage and rejuvenating La Prairie facial to suit my needs.

It’s obvious why Nelson Mandela, after 27 years in prison, spent his first night of freedom at the Saxon. Quite apart from the luxurious accommodations, sprawling suites and lush manicured grounds, no request is off limits and nothing is too much trouble for the Saxon’s dedicated team. As the hotel disappears into the distance as we drove away after my stay, I left with nothing but fond memories of a luxurious soothing haven secretly hidden away in the heart of one of the world’s most happening cities.

Judith Manson stayed in a ZAR 9,500/night one-bedroom presidential suite at the Saxon in March 2017 www.saxon.co.za Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 81

HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE HOLDALL It wouldn’t be an understatement to say I’ve road-tested dozens of holdalls. My last Louis Vuitton Keepall 55 lasted a decade before one of the handles came off, the zip broke and LV refused to repair it citing its age as a problem. I thought that was the whole point of spending a four-figure sum on something to carry your stuff around in, so when my beautifully worn-in Keepall couldn’t be repaired I decided to not to replace it like-for-like. My current carry-on is a smart dark brown and leather-trimmed holdall produced by famous Hotel Grande Bretagne in Athens, Greece. I especially like the outside pocket that provides quick access to my passport. Inside there’s bags of space, and being so reasonably priced I don’t guard it like a newborn baby.

EUR 265 www.grandebretagnestore.com

iPod CLASSIC 160GB Until the recent advent of the iPhone 7 Plus 256GB (which retails at GBP 919) the only iPod which could hold all of my music was a Classic 160GB model which Apple no longer makes. Mine still works and I bought a spare on eBay. I don’t get on a flight without it.

Approx GBP 250 on www.ebay.co.uk

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BOSE QUIETCOMFORT 20 ACOUSTIC NOISE CANCELLING HEADPHONES A quality pair of headphones is essential when you travel regularly. Your ears need looking after! Until recently I used to travel with two pairs, but these nifty little numbers now take care of all my aural needs both in-flight and on terra firma. They are especially good if you want to sleep in-flight and just want to cancel out the aircraft noise, since they sit inside the ear and don’t interfere with your sleeping position.

USD 249.95 www.bose.com

A TRAVEL EDITOR’S IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS When you travel as much as I do, getting on a plane becomes as routine as hopping in a taxi, and one soon works out what’s needed on board to ensure a comfortable journey and perky arrival. I’m often asked “doesn’t it get tiresome, all that travelling?” I can honestly say that with the exception of the painfully early morning departures, and transiting airports which take two buses a train ride plus a couple of Guantanamo-style security checks just to change planes, flying, for me at least, is generally a pleasurable experience, since I’m as comfortable aboard a jet as I am in the back of a London cab. I put this down to a variety of things, the most important being that when I’m sitting inside a metal tube hurtling through the sky at 500mph+ I’m almost always headed to a different country, sometimes (although less so these days) a place I’ve never visited before. Of course these are the most exciting adventures – visiting a new destination still excites me almost three decades after I boarded my first flight. But what really eases the air travel experience is having one’s creature comforts around you in-flight. Let’s be honest, no matter how much you gild the lily, an airplane cabin is a pretty soulless space.

With the possible exception of one or two airlines’ on-board lounges (Qatar Airways’ A380 upper deck lounge is rather special), no matter where you sit on a plane there is little around of visual stimulation.

So it is essential to travel with what you need, especially when flying long-haul. There’s nothing worse than embarking on an overnight intercontinental flight, eating sleeping and waking in the same clothes, and arriving in an exciting new destination feeling like you need to be fumigated. So here are the in-flight essentials I never traverse an airport or board a plane without.

Short of a candle to scent the air around me, this little selection generally ensures that I arrive at my destination in the best possible condition, suitably entertained, rested, rejuvenated and ready for my next adventure.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

MUJI ORGANIC COTTON LONG SLEEVE T-SHIRT I always pack a brand new Muji long sleeve t-shirt in my carry-on before a long-haul flight so I can change into it just before landing. At just a tenner each I can afford to keep a stock so I’ve always got a new one handy.

GBP 9.95 in-store only www.muji.com

LA ROCHE-POSAY WATER SPRAY 50ML Your face goes from being a grape to a raisin in about an hour on a plane so you need to keep it hydrated. The low maintenance way is a hydrating facial spray that delivers micro-droplets of pure natural spring water directly to your skin. Evian’s is good but La Roche-Posay’s is better because it has softening and anti-oxidant properties. If you have more time and money, apply a thin coat of Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque (USD 43) immediately after take-off. Use your water spray regularly in-flight. Wash your face 30 minutes before landing and apply Clinique Moisture Surge Face Spray Thirsty Skin Relief (USD 24.50) just before touch down. Your face will look fabulous even if the rest of you is knackered!

GBP 4 www.boots.com

SUPERDRY ORANGE LABEL SLIM LITE SWEATPANTS You can’t sleep in your jeans on a long-haul flight and most of the PJs handed out by even the premium carriers are made of low-grade fabrics nowadays. These Superdry slim fit sweatpants are cuffed for cosiness and have an adjustable drawstring waist and ribbed sides making them super comfy to lounge around an aircraft or nap in.

EUR 69.95 www.superdry.com

CARMEX LIP BALM TUBE 10g Strangely the skin on your lips tends to be the first and fastest to dry out in-flight, so be sure to have at least one tried and tested moisturising lip balm in your carry-on. I swear by Carmex medicated lip balm. Buy it in a little round jar or a squeezable tube (my personal preference). I find the sticks less effective.

GBP 2.69 www.boots.com

3M 1100 FOAM EARPLUGS BODY SHOP ELDERFLOWER EYE GEL 15ml This is the only eye treatment I have ever used. It provides an instant uplift to wake and soothe the eye area in-flight, and reduces the appearance of puffiness after sleeping, leaving the delicate skin around the eyes feeling soft and refreshed. I use this day and night at home and when travelling.

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I find it amazing that some airlines no longer have earplugs onboard, not even for passengers in premium cabins, so rather than chance it I always carry a pair with me. Nothing fancy. These by 3M are made from soft hypoallergenic PU foam material to provide maximum comfort and low pressure inside the ear.

Whist their shape is tapered to fit the ear canal comfortably, I use them back to front for a tighter fit!

GBP 5 for 20 pairs www.amazon.co.uk

SMYTHSON MARA ZIP CURRENCY CASE More of a travel wallet than anything else, whilst this is not an in-flight wellbeing essential, it keeps me organised and I’ve not been apart from it since it was gifted to me almost seven years ago. When travelling I’d be lost without it. Mine is brown printed calf leather with four colour-coded zip compartments for storing different currencies, SIM cards etc.

GBP 195 www.smythson.com

VITAMIN C 1000mg

AU LIT TRAVEL PILLOW & EYE MASK If you’re boarding a plane for anything more than a 10-hour flight you’re going to need to get some kip, but most pillows provided onboard are just dreadful. A 100% Egyptian cotton satin travel pillow filled with white goose down is a portable luxury wherever you rest your head.

Coupled with a 100% silk eye mask and you’re pretty much equipped to sleep anywhere.

USD 160.00 www.aulitfinelinens.com

Flying dramatically increases your chances of getting sick. Princess Diana always used to load-up on vitamin C before she boarded a plane. Taking a leaf out of her book, just before every flight I pop one echinacea tablet and a chew a couple of 1,000mg vitamin C tabs. The immunity-boosting powers of these supplements may m be debated but they seem to work for me, and the body excretes whatever vitamin C it doesn’t use so it’s impossible to overdose.

GBP 12.29 for 180 tablets www.boots.com

PAUL SMITH LEATHER LAPTOP BAG When it comes to carrying my computer – the tool upon which I write articles and check every word in TCT – I think my trusty 13” MacBook Pro deserves to be a little pampered. After all, for the past five years it has travelled everywhere I have. Iconic British brand Paul Smith produces some gorgeous leather goods, including this smart bag made from pebble embossed leather. The padded laptop compartment is purpose designed and the shoulder strap means I can sling it over my shoulder when I’m rushing through an airport.

GBP 525 www.paulsmith.com

No Shoes Required AT

QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA

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On the edge of Arabia’s famed Empty Quarter, an hour and a half outside of Abu Dhabi, solitude and tranquility set the world to rights at Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara. ASHLEE STARRATT navigates the dunes with the sand between her toes, exploring this wanderer’s paradise oasis

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olden hour, somewhere on a dusty stretch of two-lane blacktop 60-minutes outside Abu Dhabi. I’ve been staring out the window of the Lincoln Navigator that’s been my carriage since I was picked-up in DXB. Dubai, jewel of the Middle East, and Abu Dhabi, her sister gemstone, glistening metropolises are now blurred through tinted glass. As the skyscrapers slip away, their urban trappings give way to sand as the road into sunset sings its own song of gold. We’ve still got half an hour to go. It’s here, on the edge of the Rub’Al Khali – the largest uninterrupted sand desert in the world – where the cord that keeps us tethered to our sense of the known frays ever so slightly. Call it what you will, but Rub’Al Khali – better known as the Empty Quarter, covering 650,000 kms across the U.A.E., Saudi Arabia and Oman – is a place to lose yourself. But, mark my words, it’s not a place to get lost in.

Where the blacktop ends stands the last gate before the great nothingness – a simple, metal bar between the road our comfort zone walks, and the unending dunes, monoliths of the Liwa Desert at the perimeter of that beautiful abyss. This protected area is part of a 9,000 sq km nature reserve where, at the end of a 20-minute drive upwards along an undulating track through 40-metre dunes, sits Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara.

A more isolated retreat you’ll be hard-pressed to find in the U.A.E.; its rugged beauty transportive; matched only by its dedication to Bedouin authenticity. With 206 rooms, including ten Royal Pavilion pool villas, spread out in tiny ‘villages’ blossoming outward from the cluster of its rustic main hub, guests can indulge their senses across breathtaking vistas of desert which, while stark, are no less fulfilling in their exquisite desolation.

This is a mystic place, the Liwa Desert. Here footprints last as long as the wind allows.. mere vagaries to the sand; where Bedouin fires once bounced their survivalist light to cast shadows among the dunes; where the jinn are said to frolick among the folklore of a people; and where the wind that blows at dawn across the sea of sand is, as some say, the soul’s breath.

As dark approaches, our headlights bob along the uneven desert track like a drunken will-o’-the-wisp. A stone gate approaches and, then, we hit the rough cobblestone of the

Qasr Al Sarab courtyard. The motif of the resort, in colour palette and architecture, is one of lush stone, marble and wood, with dappled palms and trickling water features to enhance the ambiance of an oasis, alongside a décor of gilded Arabesque. Drenched in natural light, all windows are south-facing, to worship the sun against the backdrop of the dunes’ sandy mountain moonscape.

into the resort to nibble on the foliage surrounding the villas and suites. This is confirmed a few minutes later when those eyes – accompanied by an arching pair of horns and tuft of tail – reappear a few metres further down the pathway. We slow to a halt and watch as nature makes its presence known. The myth that there’s little life in the desert appropriately dissolves.

Sound changes as though in an insulated recording booth when you’re this far out into the desert. Whilst silence reigns every movement seems to create an echo. The quiet can be unnerving at first but becomes blissfully contemplative later. Upon check-in we’re offered fresh dates and a lush yoghurt-based drink, along with cool towels to remove the dust of the road from our faces. This isn’t a place where one would recommend driving with the windows open.

The morning dawns in shades of ochre and rust and we’re up with the sunrise to prepare for a camel trekking excursion. After a sumptuous breakfast at Al Waha, Qasr Al Sarab’s all-day dining outlet, we head to the main building to meet our guide. Part Bedouin hunting lodge part history lesson, the library lounge meeting point is a treasure trove of curios from a bygone cultural era whose traditional hold lives on. We hit the road in a 4x4, the pavement giving way to sand just past the resort’s tennis courts. Where we’re headed requires a small amount of off-roading to reach.

We pass a shaded camel paddock, where the distinctively dark shaggy-haired Saudi Arabian dromedaries nurse their young under the fronds of date palms.

Up a flagstone staircase and under a cool stone archway, the wooden door to our Deluxe Terrace Room gives way to a lush, spacious interior bedecked with russet, shades of gold and natural materials that are Anantara’s hallmark.

Aside from the usual king-sized bed, walk-in rain-shower and family-sized Jacuzzi, we’re taken with the bespoke ‘soap bar’ menu, featuring customized blends of aromatic essential oils and essences, and the 45 m2 outdoor terrace with plump banquette seating, oversized loungers and al fresco dining table. Protected from the blazing sun by a timber and thatched roof, the terrace is even larger than the room’s interior and the perfect spot for a pre-dinner gathering with friends. The view from the terrace, across the tree-dappled grounds and sapphire pool, outward towards the barren beauty of the desert, is reverent. It’s here I slip off my shoes and let my feet connect with the earth for the next 48 hours.

After quickly freshening up, a club car whisks us to Ghadeer - the resort’s poolside Mediterranean restaurant and shisha lounge - for a late dinner. The darkness hangs like a curtain, our table on the edge of the desert. The drop in temperature is marked, but the service is top-par – the food comforting and satisfying. The vegetable and goats’ cheese tart is not to be missed. On the way back to our room, the club car winding through the resort’s serpentine trails, we spot a pair of reflective eyes frozen in the darkness just outside the reach of our headlights. In a flash they’re gone, a windy rustle left in its wake. Our driver tells us it’s not uncommon for sand gazelles to make their way

Atop our faithful ships of the desert, placidly plodding their way across the dusty plateau, our guide points out how the footprints made by their hooves expand like pillows with every step, allowing them – as though wearing snowshoes – to glide across the sand rather than sink. We also spot small lizard tracks and short, scrub-brush clinging on against all odds to take root in the desert clime. Our guide gingerly plucks a succulent bud and offers it to taste. Salty, it bursts in the mouth like samphire. Nourished by an underground network of tributaries, it’s one way the desert gives up her secrets.

Unsurprisingly sandy and camel scented, we spend the remainder of the day supine by the pool. After a cooling dip and a few beverages, (the fresh watermelon juice was the ultimate rehydrator), we’re sufficiently lubricated to continue our evening’s rituals with the sundowners hour at Suhail – the resort’s rooftop lounge. For the more adventurous (and fit!), climbing the huge adjacent sand dune to worship the last of the sun’s rays is a rite of passage; but we’re content to meditate over a few chilled glasses of vino, while time stops in veneration of the view.

Dinner sees us kicking off our shoes by the sand and campfires of Al Falaj’s carpeted Bedouin majlis. Here the food is cooked over coals or roasted on spits – juices

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dripping and skin crackling – whilst the smell of shisha is thick and coils about our ankles. To our left a camel is tethered to a post just outside the circle of light cast by the flames. An Emirati stoops before the blaze, a hooded falcon on his arm. Children leave their plates and rush over to see the raptor. Projected on the sand dune in front of us is a black and white film-reel; footage of the early days of Abu Dhabi and its leader Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan – a historical time capsule under a sky teeming and timeless with constellations. The scene is utterly magical.

The following morning, our last at the resort, once again sees us up with the dawn and headed into the no-man’s-land of the Empty Quarter for some dune-bashing that we won’t soon forget. You haven’t felt the blood pumping through your veins until you’ve had two wheels hanging, nose-first, over the lip of a 40-metre dune. And this was the ‘soft’ excursion option! At one point our driver defies gravity to hoist our car up the crest of a wave of sand so high that, upon exiting the vehicle, the world seems precariously perpendicular – all right angles and rippled sand, with some blue sky thrown in for good measure. Out here, where only the wind wanders, we are interlopers in a desert tableau. As far as the eye can see is sameness and solitude, though nothing is really the same, for these dunes talk; they slide along the tongue of the wind, hewn into new patterns and shapes that trick the eye with their ever-changing story. What once was will no longer be tomorrow. It’s the most breath-taking and terrifying place. One my mind still gnaws over obsessively.

After an hour and a half we’re back in the arms of the resort. No stay at an Anantara property would be complete without a diversion to their signature spa. A lush massage is enough to set the world – and your lumbar region – to rights after the bumps and jolts of a morning spent out on the dunes.

As we check out and hit the road back to Dubai, the soles of my feet still burning from the sand’s lashing, there’s a sense of ennui that overtakes us, and the mood in the car changes. Introspection, if you will, and a longing for what we’ve just left behind. As Antoine de Saint-Exupéry once wrote, “What makes the desert beautiful,” said the Little Prince, “is that somewhere it hides a well…”. At that moment Qasr Al Sarab was just ours. www.qasralsarab.anantara.com

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Until visiting Colombia for the first time three years ago I’m embarrassed to admit that I’d never set foot in Latin America.

Four visits later and I’m somewhat addicted to the only Spanish-speaking American country that is embraced by the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. In between is a nation of rich flora and fauna unlike anywhere else – including the Amazon rainforest and Andes Mountains – together with modern cities, vast farmlands, ancient civilizations and authentic colonial charm.

In recent years Colombia has undergone a remarkable transformation – turning the tide on a long running and bloody terrorist insurgency – and made huge strides in restoring security and stability to the nation. Today, the country's boundless energy and genuine spirit fill every corner of the land, and music, dance, food, art, fashion and style saturate its conurbations. Nowhere is this more evident than the historic 16th century Caribbean walled city of Cartagena de Indias, a fairytale destination of romance, legends and superbly preserved beauty and remarkable secrets contained within centuries-old colonial stone walls.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

SPOTLIGHT ON

CARTAGENA

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n the northern coast of Colombia, Cartagena’s historical and political heritage is undeniable. Founded in 1533

by Spanish commander Pedro de Heredia, the city soon established itself as the leading trade and governmental seat of the New World Conquistadors. Gold tombs and Indian reserves were immediately pillaged by the invaders, and the city soon became a huge bank vault for the precious jewels, silver and bullion that the Spanish were ripping from the hearts of Colombia and neighbouring Peru and shipping back to Europe. Seven miles of fortified walls – the largest in Latin America – were built to defend against the many pirates, English privateers and host of other nefarious characters who frequently tried to ransack the plundered wealth stored within the imposing fort. Largely governed by the Spanish, they have all left their fingerprints firmly in the aesthetics of Cartagena’s architecture.

The stunning city was granted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO in 1984 and remains one of the most authentic and well-maintained examples of Spanish period colonial architecture in the world. The French, Dutch and British also invaded and ruled for brief periods of time, and Cartagena became one of only two slave trading ports in the Americas – the other being in Mexico. Such a mixture of influencing cultures, through incredibly tumultuous times, has imbued Cartagena with a unique and special identity; part African, a dash of pirate, a slice of Europe, a significant Caribbean flavour, a smidgen of Native Indian but one hundred per cent Colombian, encompassing all the colour, passion and vibrancy that runs through the veins of this extraordinarily diverse country.

A maze of cobbled alleys, ornate bougainvillea-covered balconies, colourful 400-year-old houses, crumbling mansions and massive churches that cast their shadows across plazas, music, aromas and pulsating rhythms greet visitors at every corner of Cartagena.

Horses and carts clatter through the streets and flash mobs dance in pretty squares. Whilst the whole of Colombia is designed to be explored at ground level, once visited, the nation’s undisputed Caribbean queen saturates with her architectural gems and embraces with her alluring charms to such an extent that it’s truly hard for one to leave.

The best way to explore the captivating walled city is to basically throw away the guidebook, forget all normal sightseeing routines and simply walk out the front door of your lodgings and stroll through the old town by day and night. Don’t even take a map – you will find where you’re going eventually, in good old Caribbean time.

A three or four-night stay – ideally over a weekend – is plenty of time to enjoy first hand the jewel in Colombia’s crown. Book accommodation within the walled city but don’t be afraid to explore beyond, because the outer town – teeming with traffic and populated by the working classes – is a charmingly chaotic experience that can leave you delightfully dazed and confused in minutes but somehow addicted to the madness of it all.

This was my second visit to Cartagena. My first was jammed diary-like with places I was advised I simply had to see and things I couldn’t miss. Big mistake. On that occasion I left Cartagena with little feel for the city’s utter uniqueness. On this visit however – arriving with no real plans apart from a hotel booking – I soaked up as much as possible of the sensual atmosphere and left wanting more and already planning my return.

Although I’m very sure there are many more to be discovered, here are a handful of memorable places I came across whilst ambling within Cartagena’s treasure-filled pastel-coloured ancient walls.

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www.sophiahotel.com.co In an elegant republican building, surrounded by the historical walled city, you’ll discover a place where sensitivity and inspiration reside in every corner.

Offering a personalized service for our guests, an inspiring and peaceful place reawakens and wraps you in its subtle magic.

In each of its 15 rooms, the city’s magic is witnessed in a timeless and seamless experience that combines historical and current designs in every detail.

+ 57 (5) 6517007

ventassophia@oxohotel.com

Calle 32 No. 4 - 45 Plaza de la Aduana

Cartagena - Colombia

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA

Sofitel Legend Santa Clara A hospitality landmark in the heart of the old city, and most probably the most famous hotel in Colombia, Bill Gates, Shakira, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford Coppola, Mick Jagger, Plácido Domingo and Sting have all stayed at Santa Clara, Cartagena’s classic hotel of choice for discerning clients for decades. Formerly a monastery and a convent, the property’s architectural 17th century heritage has been carefully incorporated to impress yet not bedazzle guests.

Suites are spacious and provide a contemporary vintage feel laden with modern-day amenities. The hotel’s butler service is particularly efficient without being pompous. A variety of gourmet dining options and a well-stocked cellar, a deluxe spa and a large palm tree-fringed swimming pool are just some of the facilities on offer to make visitors feel pampered and well looked after.

Wandering around the hotel brings guests face-to-face with intriguing artifacts that were recovered from pirate

attacks, original architectural features and priceless religious artworks. Meanwhile walking a few steps in any direction from Santa Clara opens up a veritable selection of history, culture, gastronomy and colour, making this an ideal place to base oneself for the numerous adventures Cartagena has to offer. www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/

Café del Mar For more than a decade this iconic venue has provided visitors to Cartagena with uninterrupted views of the striking crimson sunsets that are bestowed on the city and transform the colours of its 16th century buildings. Located on the western most point of the ancient walls, a round of sunset drinks at Café del Mar will undoubtedly kick start your weekend in exciting and dramatic fashion. For those who are a little peckish, a decent menu of pre-dinner bites accompanies the long list of cocktails on offer. But don’t Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 101

AGUA DE MAR

linger here too long.. as the tropical night falls on the walled city, move on to a different location and a more up tempo beat that gets hotter and louder as the skies gets darker. www.facebook.com/cafedelmarcartagena

Getsemaní An easy 10-minute walk from the walled city is Getsemaní, a hip and recently gentrified area of Cartagena. Originally the abode of freed slaves, merchants, tradesmen and those who fought (and won) against the Spanish to gain independence in 1821, this charming neighbourhood retains the small town appeal of somewhere that has not quite been fully discovered. Mostly inhabited by bohemian artists, writers, musicians and other creative types, Getsemaní’s artistic underbelly is reflected in the graffiti art adorning many of its walls, live music and dancing in the main square, and the influx of adventurous tourists fuelling the rise of boutique hotels and other über-cool establishments

GETSEMANÍ

in the area, one of the best of which is Demente. A Cuban-inspired tapas bar in a quirky speakeasy-style setting, Demente is presided over by talented and friendly staff and frequented by everyone from locals to cultured travellers. Settle into a rocking chair inside and lose yourself in the eclectic music whilst sipping a potent cocktail, or feast on scrumptious pizzas in the characterful garden out back and make a night of it. www.demente.com.co

Café Havana Once you’ve been sufficiently fuelled and fed at Demente, and gathered enough Dutch courage to warm up your dancing feet with a spot of salsa with the locals in Plaza de la Trinidad (immediately in front of Demente), perfect your moves and soak in the sultry Latin beats then head to Café Havana to let your hair down in this long established dance and music venue. Stepping into this joyous sweatbox is

CAFÉ HAVANA

quite literally akin to being transported into the pages of a Cuban song. Sensual, heady and packed, the only thing that's missing is the smell of Cuban cigars. Agile dancers fill the floor moving to infectious salsa played live by world-class bands, whilst anxious newbies sip on some of the best mojitos in town before joining in. Make new friends, dance 'til you drop and embrace the irresistibly sexy Colombian energy of it all. www.cafehavanacartagena.com

Agua de Mar Cartagena’s prosperity in the 1500s made it a destination that attracted explorers, architectural pioneers and tradesmen, but also infamous pirates and thieves who wreaked havoc in the city for decades. Walls and castles that still stand proud – built to protect the city’s borders from the incessant raids – are design features of a by-gone colonial era that define the city’s inimitable aesthetic to this

day. The buccaneer influence doesn’t stop there: rum – the infamous liquor with pirate connotations made from raw sugar cane – is Cartagena’s liquid poison of choice, and so no visit to the city can be truly complete without sampling some of the country’s home produced varieties. Agua de Mar is a gourmet eatery with a dash of Colombian flair complete with a boutique cocktail bar laden with an excellent selection of rums as well as gins. Presided over by charming owner and chef Mar Alonso, start a night here with a handcrafted cocktail followed by a dinner of gastronomic treats laden with different flavours and textures. www.aguademar.com

Gabriel García Márquez Tour Márquez was a long time resident of Cartagena and used the city as inspiration for his novels, amongst them the classic “Of Love and Other Demons.” His home is adjacent to the Santa Clara and is still a photographic stop for visiting tourists. The Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 103

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multi-million selling author and Nobel prize winner affectionately known as “Gabo” in his natal land - can be evoked through a personalised city tour which can be downloaded to a smartphone, offering the opportunity to conjure the sights, sounds, smells, period and romance of Cartagena though captivating audio guides which are cleverly intertwined with passaged from Gabo’s magical realism literature. Stop off for a mouth-watering ‘arepa with cheese’ from a street vendor by the clock tower square, and get truly lost in the fairy-tale that is Gabo and the exquisite city he portrays in his unique writings. Unlike most city tours, this is something that can be tailored to individuals or even delivered to your hotel, and as such makes for a far more potent adventure. Be sure to take in the celestial charm of the San Pedro Claver Museum and Cloisters - homage to San Pedro’s patronage of slaves - then walk a few paces to the nearby market square where the poor souls were once sold.

María María is a swanky, modern culinary haven created by Bogotá-born but internationally trained chef, Alejandro Ramírez, who prepares a fresh take on traditional food served in a striking and fun interior, with colourful tiger print murals on each of its four walls and a pineapple chandelier in the centre. A firm believer in sustainable eating, Ramírez works closely with native fishermen and farmers, ensuring a daily supply of fresh local produce to fuel his fusion menu of global cuisine, from Asian-accented ceviche to a traditional take on British fish and chips. The drinks list is equally inventive, featuring cocktails such as Cactus Margarita and Mango Mojito to name just a few. Maria is the perfect place to eat well and people watch before heading to Alquimíco a few doors down the road. www.mariacartagena.com

www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo/

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Alquímico The city’s Palenquera fruit sellers are as much a fixture of Cartagena as the Catedral de San Pedro Claver. Their bright dresses and smiling faces have become an integral part of the very fabric of Cartagena. You only need look into the bountiful bowls carried on their heads to see the incredible range of exotic fruits readily available in Colombia. Lulo, feijoa, piña, curuba, pitahaya and guayaba are just some of the fruits Colombians used almost exclusively for juices for years, meanwhile drinking their liquor straight. It took Jean Trinh – who opened the city’s very popular-but-now-closed El Laboratorio – to ask what happens if you infuse rum with local fruits and spices. The result is fabulous handcrafted cocktails, and thus Cartagena's cocktail alchemist, Alquímico, was born, housed in a beautiful two-storey 1910 mansion. Alquímico has transformed drinking in Cartagena into a veritable art form and elevated the city’s nightlife scene to new heights.

Moreover, on Friday and Saturday nights, the terrace atop the roof of the city's newest nocturnal hotspot provides space to dance and groove, so there’s no need to move on to a traditional club. www.alquimico.com

San Alberto Café Clear your head after a night of cocktails and partying and begin a new day with a fresh brew of coffee. But like rum, Colombia’s variety of coffees needs an expert hand to guide one through its delicate processing and flavourings, not to mention the best way to enjoy it. Across the street from the cathedral, San Alberto Café was borne of its namesake plantation - Hacienda San Alberto - located in the heart of the country's coffee triangle, located between 1,500 and 1,800 meters above sea level in the province of Quindío, a municipality known as Buenavista in Colombia. San Alberto has been producing high grade beans for more than forty years and has won the most number of international awards for it’s products, so aside from a unique tasting experience, you will enjoy top quality coffee that will help shake off the previous night’s excesses. At its Cartagena café, expert baristas will talk you through the fascinating steps of planting, harvesting, classifying and producing the country’s top brew, and, if you have time, you can book a coffee baptism ritual or sample some of San Antonio’s premium offerings. Either way, whether you book a coffee ritual or grab a hit of the country’s finest caffeine, stopping-by San Alberto Café will undoubtedly charge you up for the day ahead. www.cafesanalberto.com/en/ 108 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

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Gelateria Paradiso Cartagena is hot and humid. Thankfully nights are cooler and there are dozens of enticing ice cream shops within the old city. You could spend a month in Cartagena and probably drop anchor at a different gelateria every day.

Maria Nevett's glorious ice cream parlour, Gelataria Paradiso, pairs French-inspired floral boudoir frills with homemade ice cream thrills to create the ultimate place to pit stop and chill. It’s the kind of place every kid dreams of and is the most charming ice cream shop in the city.

Nevett's fruity selection is made with 100% natural ingredients including a colourful kaleidoscope of Colombian fruits including zapote, corozo, passion fruit, costeño cherry and lulo as well as organic cacao-rich chocolate treats.

Each day sees six new flavours introduced alongside classics such as banana, Stracciatella, salted caramel, coconut water, ginger, and cookies and cream. Be warned if you sit down here you may never get up. www.facebook.com/gelateriaparadiso

El Boliche Cebichería Though ceviche originated in Peru, Colombia has put its own distinctive spin on it, and there are few better places in Cartagena than this tiny 16-seat locale to have a flavourful seafood party in your mouth. Launched in 2011 by chef Oscar Colmeranes - who perfected his craft at Martin

MOVICH ROOFTOP

Berasategui's eponymous three Michelin-starred San Sebastian restaurant - his ceviche skills are equally matched by his insistence on using only freshly caught produce fished by artisans. Colmeranes’ cebichería offers diners exquisite attention to detail incorporating local fruit and herb combinations, and leaves even the most seasoned of ceviche palates satisfied yet not weighted down by strong flavours. Focusing on quality over quantity, the grilled seafood platter, crab empanadas and ceviche in a suero costeño (similar to cream cheese) reduction are particularly tasty highlights. www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria

Movich Rooftop Boasting 360-degree views of the old city, the harbour and the skyscrapers of downtown Cartagena, there is nowhere better to view the city’s historic sites, juxtaposed with the Miami-esque skyline of its contemporary architecture, than from the rooftop of the Movich. Design buffs will marvel at the contrasting buildings on display, offset by the sheer beauty of the sunset’s vivid colours. Meanwhile delectable cocktails will get you in the mood for yet another lively night on the town, and are served in the perfect setting to gaze at the scenery from a bird’s eye view vantage point. www.movichhotels.com

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TEMPLE RUINS OF TA PROHM

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TRAVELLER LOWDOWN DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL explores the famed North Western Cambodian city of Siem Reap, host to some of Asia’s most incredible temples

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n enchanting and engaging saga of love and deceit, of power struggles and battles and of age-old conflict, is, according to local folklore, the backdrop to the foundation of Siem Reap.

The name means ‘defeat of Siam’, and many believe that it is connected to the ancient encounter between the Khmer and Siam kingdoms. Modern historians disagree, but everything about Siem Reap is as intriguing as its backstory.

Siem Reap once was one of the busiest cities in South East Asia. A staging point for the rich and famous in the early

ANGKOR TEMPLE NORTH GATE

ANGKOR NIGHT MARKET

ANGKOR WAT

CAMBODIAN FISH AMOK

sixties, it has now emerged as one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. With its magnificent temples, museums and markets, Siem Reap is a must see place for anyone with a passion for travel and exploration. It is truly a land of mysticism, wonder and, above all else, architectural brilliance.

for a day and allows access to all of the Angkor heritage sites, except for Beng Mealeas and Phnom Kulen. You will need cash to buy an Angkor-Pass and ensure your shoulders and knees are covered. If you buy your pass in the evening after 5pm, it will be valid for the next day (thus avoiding the long morning queues) and that evening you can watch the sunset at Angkor Park for free (www.visit-angkor.org). USD 2 from each Angkor-Pass sold is donated to the foundation for the Kantha Bopha Children's Hospitals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (www.beat-richner.ch).

We visited Siem Reap as part of a Vietnam and Cambodia tour, organised by Travel Cambodia agency (www.travelcambodia.com). The unassuming small but efficient airport really does not prepare adventurers for what lies ahead. A 30-minute drive took us to the base for our 2-day stay – The Central Boutique Angkor Hotel; cozy, The first site we visited was Angkor Thom, a walled and moated welcoming, tucked away and the perfect place to put our royal city and the last capital of the Angkorian empire, situated feet up and get some much-needed rest on the western banks of Siem Reap river. Five towering grand (www.centralboutiqueangkorhotel.com). At the time of our entrances allow access to the 3km x 3km site, one for each cardinal point, plus the Victory Gate that leads to the Royal stay, the hotel was bedecked in decorations to celebrate Palace area. We entered Cambodian New Year, via the South Gate known as Choul Chnam (coming from Siem Thmey in the Khmer Reap town approx. 9km language. The Lunar An enchanting and engaging to the south), which New Year, which falls in was crowned with four mid April, marks the saga of love and deceit, of power giant faces and framed end of the harvest struggles and battles and of by elephants wading season, and the three age-old conflict, is, according to amongst lotus flowers. days of Maha local folklore, the backdrop to To say that the sight Sangkran, Virak the foundation of Siem Reap was jaw dropping is Vanabat and Veerak something of an Loeng Sak are understatement. celebrated with great pomp and vigor by all Dating from the 12th century, Bayon is the spectacular Cambodians – even those living abroad. central temple of the ancient city, known for its towering Our first sightseeing stop was Angkor Night Market open pillars and multitude of stone faces, standing in the exact everyday from 5pm ‘til midnight (www.siemreap.net). With center of Angkor representing the intersection of heaven and earth. Bayon was the last temple to built at Angkor and over 200 vendors from across Cambodia, the Original Night is the official state temple of King Jayavarman VII, a staunch Market (as it’s commonly known) was established ten years believer in Mahāyāna Buddhism, the largest major tradition ago and is a good place to shop for souvenirs and trinkets, of Buddhism still existing today. Bayon is renowned for its with a palpable buzz in the air even late at night. Energetic huge stone faces of the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, with and lively, the market is always awash with travellers from one facing outward and keeping watch at each compass around the world looking for a piece of Cambodia to take point. The curious smiling image is thought by many to be a home. Island Bar with its enormous cone-shaped thatched portrait of Jayavarman himself. It was incredible to think roof (www.facebook.com/IslandBarSiemReap), and CoCo that this spectacular structure was built around 1190 AD. At House Restaurant set in a traditional Khmer house are both one point I noticed locals arranging small stones and popular and bustling and ideal for a pit stop pebbles one on top of the other since many still believe that (www.facebook.com/CocoHouseRestaurant). this will bring good fortune. After being snapped with a lady attired in traditional Cambodian costume in exchange for a The next day, after a swift breakfast, we head off to explore Dollar, we headed to the next temple, along the 350m the wondrous city. An Angkor-Pass currently costs USD 37 Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 115

TERRACE OF THE ELEPHANTS

ANGKOR THOM

Terrace of the Elephants to the south of the city, from which appear for some reason it was feared that the end was nigh Jayavarman VII surveyed his army. The same terrace was for the King. Concurrently, if the King didn’t show-up one used as an audience hall and place for public ceremonies in night his people took this as a sign of a possible impending the 12th century. What’s incredible about Angkor’s temples is calamity. the feeling of being teleported back to a Located southwest of Dating from the 12th century, Bayon different era. Such is the East Mebon and is the spectacular central temple of the intensity of the site east of Angkor Thom, that one can almost and built in the late the ancient city, known for its picture the setting in its 1100s, Ta Prohm is a towering pillars and multitude of heyday. It was really veritable live battle stone faces, standing in the exact quite surreal. between nature and center of Angkor representing the ancient architecture in intersection of heaven and earth As we entered the the heart of the towering three-stepped Cambodian jungle. A th pyramidal 10 century UNESCO World Heritage Hindu Phimeanakas temple, built in the Khleang style, we site for 25 years, unlike most of Angkor’s temples beautiful noticed two pools adjacent to each other. Literally Ta Prohm has largely been left to the clutches of the living translating to “Celestial Palace”, it is said that every night forest. Some of you will of course recognise Ta Prohm from the King bathed in one of the temple’s pools and lay with a the 2001 movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, in which the different naga, or serpent-headed woman. If the naga didn’t heroine (played by Angelina Jolie) fights off guardian statues 116 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

M SOUTH GATE

TA PROHM TEMPLE

essence of Cambodian cuisine, amok is basically steamed in order to save the world. Standing in Ta Prohm – amidst curried fish traditionally made with thick coconut cream, the giant roots of trees attached to the buildings’ porous galangal and aromatic kroeung spices that make up the sandstone – is quite unbelievable. Whilst the roots are firmly base flavours of many Khmer dishes. A bowl of classic fixed to the buildings themselves, extracting the last Cambodian fish amok remaining vestiges of is reputedly as healthy water from the stones Located southwest of the East as it’s tasty and ours and ever-so-slowly Mebon and east of Angkor Thom, was simply delicious. crushing the structures, the trees are at the and built in the late 1100s, Ta Saving the best for last same time holding up Prohm is a veritable live battle we headed to Ta Prohm. I doubt I’ll between nature and ancient Cambodia’s most iconic ever forget the smiling architecture in the heart of the and awe-inspiring stone face of Khmer Cambodian jungle temple, and source of goddess Apsara, just fierce national pride, visible through the Angkor Wat, located huge tree roots. about six kilometres (four miles) north of Siem Reap. It is a After a long and thoroughly exhilarating morning a break short walk across the gigantic 200m-wide 5km-perimeter was much needed, so we stopped for a bite at a roadside rectangular moat surrounding Angkor Wat – so big it is visible eatery to recharge our batteries. The one dish that must not from space – to reach the temple. Because the main entrance be missed during any visit to Cambodia is amok. The is generally always crowded, it’s advisable to arrive via one of

the side entrances. As we walked through the trees we really weren’t sure what to expect.

Along the way what resembled a number of mini temples or outhouses dotted the route.

Mystical, magical and marvellous. None of these words, or any others for that matter, really do justice to the immense beauty of regal Angkor Wat. Originally built roughly between AD 1113 and 1150 by Suryavarman II as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu, Angkor Wat encompasses an area of about 500 acres (200 hectares) and is the earthly representation of Mount Meru - the Mount Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The Cambodian god-kings of old each strove to better their ancestors’ structures in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in what is believed to be one of the largest religious monuments ever constructed. Its name means “temple city.” Angkor Wat was converted into a Buddhist temple in the 14th century, when statues of Buddha were added to its already rich artwork. But Angkor Wat’s size is not the most fascinating aspect of this awe-inspiring monument. The glorious architecture and intricate detailing is what sets Angkor Wat apart. It’s said that the temple took 48 years to construct, and, quite honestly, when you see it up close you can ANGKOR TEMPLE

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understand why. Even after all these years, faces, characters and scenes are still easily recognisable and the walls tell a compelling story.

At the heart of Angkor Wat is a 213-foot-tall (65m) central tower surrounded by four smaller towers and a series of enclosing walls – a layout that recreates the image of mythological Mount Meru, which believers consider to be the center of all physical, metaphysical and spiritual universes. Reaching the top of the central tower involves a narrow and at times slightly precarious and steep climb, but it’s worth the effort. The view is a spectacle of beauty befitting the Khmer's architectural genius for creating harmonious proportions.

Even after two hours of walking around the site we hadn’t seen the entire temple, but there’s only so much one’s legs can take!

Refreshed and rehydrated throughout our Angkor Wat experience by fresh coconut water, found throughout Cambodia, we almost certainly wouldn’t have survived such a physically demanding day had it not been for this refreshing drink.

Siem Reap contains a million stories: tales of love, of courage, of victory, of toil, of religion and of resilience. We may have only been in the city for less than 48 hours, but the sights we saw and the memories we made will almost certainly remain with me forever.

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STONE FACE OF KHMER GODDESS APSARA

TASTE &SIP REVIEW

INDIAN ACCENT NEW DELHI Food Atmosphere

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ndian food is beloved the world over for its rich sauces, succulent meats and evolved vegetarian dishes. The sub continent boasts vast and varied culinary traditions.

In the north, including the Delhi area and Rajasthan, the food is heavily influenced by centuries of Mughal rule and includes Persian, Middle Eastern and Central Asian influences. Clay oven tandoori style cooking originated in Persia and was brought to India via Afghanistan by Arabs.

Meanwhile Arabian and Portuguese trade and colonial links heavily influenced cooking in India’s southern coastal areas, where the food is spicier, with a greater prevalence of chili and curry and more use of seafood.

Across the vast nation, rice, millet, lentils and chickpeas are staples, while spices such as coriander, cumin, cardamom, ginger and garlic proliferate. Indian flat breads - such as naan and chapatis - and crisp breads including papadums are found throughout the country and accompany most meals.

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Almost every five-star hotel in Delhi incorporates a restaurant that serves Indian cuisine, but the emphasis is on delivering classic dishes at high standards. Some of these restaurants focus on regional offerings. But while traditional Indian food is easy to find, as well as dishes prepared with less spices to appeal to Western palettes, innovative Indian fare is still relatively rare and it is this that makes Indian Accent so unique. Indian Accent does something very different by offering Indian-inspired cuisine with a modern twist, incorporating contemporary global influences and unorthodox yet tasty flavour pairings. In short, Indian Accent boldly shows the culinary world what the future of Indian cuisine looks like.

Since opening in 2009, Indian Accent has been consistently ranked as the one of the country’s top dining destinations and is the only restaurant in India to feature in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017. Consequently Indian Accent has achieved culinary superstar status and has become a go to

destination for global foodies. Under the tutelage of head chef and patron, Manish Mehrota, Indian Accent has pioneered the fusion of traditional Indian heritage flavours with global influences and modern cooking techniques.

A core part of Mehrota’s inspiration comes from the super strict vegetarian home in which he grew up, in Patna, a small town in eastern India. Mehrota’s meat-averse father was so insistent about what was consumed indoors that his wife had to cook eggs for the children in separate cookware outdoors on the terrace. Mehrota has been known to trawl the food bazaars of Old Delhi and sample street food in search of culinary stimulation. India has so much regional food diversity that his travels around the subcontinent also serve as inspiration. Add inherent pan Asian and Mediterranean food sensibilities, and it is hardly surprising that Mehrota is widely regarded as the most exciting modern Indian chef in the world today.

Playful and innovative, Indian Accent strives to offer dishes which are deliciously different yet familiar enough to appeal to the broadest and most discerning of palettes. Advance reservations of weeks and sometimes even months are required to assure a coveted seat at Indian Accent, and serves as testament to its enduring popularity. My visit to its flagship New Delhi location confirmed the hype.

Amidst the cacophony and managed chaos that is contemporary New Delhi - one of the biggest cities on the planet and capital of India - lies The Manor, an upmarket, modern and somewhat discreet boutique hotel in a metropolis better known for its ubiquitous international luxury hotels. Located in the leafy and affluent Friends Colony residential neigbourhood in South Delhi, The Manor is a world away from the traffic and street peddler-choked streets of New Delhi. However, since traffic throughout the city is notoriously bad and unpredictable, plenty of extra time should be allocated to arrive punctually for a reservation at Indian Accent.

A verdant oasis of calm and unstuffy refinement, any semblance of stress that journeying to The Manor may have created is soon expunged upon entering the hotel’s understated yet elegant entrance, decorated with a mix of

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contemporary and antique art and furnishings. The overall ambience is that of a private residence, purposely lacking in fanfare and devoid of frenetic energy. Indian Accent is housed in a suite of reception room-sized spaces on the ground floor, including a glass-fronted veranda looking towards frangipani trees and well-manicured grounds.

The restaurant’s layout fosters a dining experience that is calm, civilized and comfortable. A stylish bar incorporating a comfortable and whimsical lounge seating area adds character to the neutral tones. Though the décor and furnishings are tasteful and well appointed, the focus at Indian Accent is decidedly on the culinary offering and professional service, without the theatrical distractions that seem to be so increasingly a part of so many high-end 21st century restaurant offerings.

Dining at Indian Accent is a veritable journey of the senses.

Taste, texture and presentation are executed flawlessly, laced with just enough fussiness to reveal the creativity and skill involved in showcasing each dish’s exotic flavours and seasonal produce in a unique way. The experimental and traditional are married in each dish with extreme skill and culinary success. More than anything, the food tastes wonderful, bursting with flavours. Although diners may

order à la carte, the six course-tasting menu is the best way to sample the broad array of what’s on offer. This being India, there is also a vegetarian tasting menu. Menus change seasonally to include fresh produce and introduce new combinations and culinary developments.

The tasting style of eating can often be tedious and stuffy but not at Indian Accent. Pulled pork quesadillas were enhanced by jackfruit. Wild mushrooms were served on a crisp paper-thin dosa and brought to life with a hint of wasabi raita. Tiger prawns were topped with morsels of bacon and homemade chutneys. John Dory was served with coconut barley and cashew pakora. My meal ended with a trio of desserts which included a saffron infused ice cream which was so utterly sublime the taste has lingered with me ever since. The service was nothing short of exceptional, with every server able to explain each dish in easy-to-understand detail. The delivery of each course was spot on, the entire dining experience flowing perfectly.

While Indian food has always had its dedicated fan base, it has always bowed to tradition and classical preparation. Indian Accent shows that it can be exciting, modern and cutting-edge. Having recently opened in New York to rave reviews Indian accent now has London in its sights, a testament to its broad appeal and Mehrota’s gift for making culinary inventiveness accessible and fun. By refashioning classical Indian dishes with global and modern twists, Mehrota has firmly put Indian-inspired 21st century cuisine firmly in the spotlight of the global food scene.

INDIAN ACCENT Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Address:

Manish Mehrotra The Manor, 77 Friends Colony (West), New Delhi, India, 110065 Telephone: +91 11 43235151 Email: reservations.del@indianaccent.com Website: www.indianaccent.com Cuisine: Inventive Indian Opening hours: Every day 12:00–15:00 + 19:00–23:00 Reservations: Essential Lunch price: Potato sphere chaat + chettinad chicken keema + daulat ki chaat: INR 2275++ Dinner price: Meetha achaar spare ribs + tamarind john dory + warm doda burfi treacle tart: INR 2375++ Ideal meal: Non-vegetarian tasting menu INR 3300++ or vegetarian tasting menu INR 3200++ Wheelchair access: Yes Children: No high chairs. No kids menu Credit cards: All major Parking: Valet free of charge Reviewed by Alex Benasuli on 14th February 2017

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

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TASTE &SIP

NEWCOMER TATEL MIAMI

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A steady stream of upscale eateries constantly open in Miami - in Wynwood, Downtown, the Design District, Brickell and, of course, in good old South Beach. If you want a gastronomic barometer of America’s new culinary trends or up-and-coming foodie fads - despite not having one single Michelin star between the hundreds of restaurants in Greater Miami - you can rely on the fashionable Florida vacation resort to deliver a selection of hot new dining venues to experience year in year out.

I rather enjoy seeing what’s new and what’s gone during my annual pilgrimage to Miami, since as quickly as funky new restaurants spring-up they also disappear, such is the competition for affluent diners amidst the city’s sky high rents. Premium sites are often left empty and unloved for some time before an adventurous restaurateur with deep pockets, a well known chef with a dedicated following, or a famous name with hot connections risks investing in opening a new eatery in America’s must-visit culinary destination. The level of publicity essential to launch any new restaurant in Miami is so great that it’s a very public fall from gastronomic grace when one fails.

David Bouley's failed Evolution restaurant used to occupy 1669 Collins Avenue, within South Beach's Ritz-Carlton hotel. Despite a much-hyped launch it lasted for all of one year before closing in 2007. Apparently it was overpriced and, well, Bouley just wasn’t there, like, ever. Then entered the investors behind Bal Harbour’s highly successful bistro La Goulue, who took over the space and launched Dorè South Beach. Chef Jeff Pfeiffer (formerly of La Goulue) was at the helm, dishing out French-inspired cuisine in both tapas and entrée styles. But Preiffer’s food obviously wasn’t a sufficient enough draw, for Dorè South Beach opened in 2012 and didn’t last much longer than Evolution.

It takes a highly courageous restaurateur or a really hot ticket to take on a space with such a chequered past. Enter Spanish pop music heartthrob and Miami Beach local Enrique Iglesias, international tennis champion Rafael Nadal, and six-time NBA All-Star San Antonio Spurs player Pau Gasol. Together with partners Abel Matutes Prats and Manuel Campos Guallar they opened the second outpost of Tatel in March 2017 - its first location in the U.S. at 1669 Collins Avenue - and sister to the highly successful Madrid restaurant of the same name.

More a clubstaurant than a conventional eatery, Tatel Miami serves Spanish cuisine with style and glamour, its centrepiece elevated circular copper DJ booth cum stage kinda giving away the restaurant’s hipster and music-orientated credentials. The large 200-seat restaurant - in addition to the main dining room and photogenic island bar (pictured) that’s outfitted with a metal chandelier composed of more than a thousand bronze tubes and hundreds of LED lights above - also boasts a variety of semi-private rooms and a special VIP dining suite with its own bathroom. The walls are decorated with plenty of contemporary interpretations of Spanish-inspired art, which combined with the velvet upholstery and delicate colour palette lends a warm yet sophisticated feel to the whole place that I rather liked.

Since Tatel hails from Madrid it unsurprisingly has a Spanish-inspired menu. Think items like Spanish tortilla, croquetas, grilled octopus topped with red sauce, and its signature dish: thin veal steak breaded and fried, topped with a slow cooked egg and black truffle. To carry on the tradition Stateside, Tatel Miami hired Nobu Miami’s former executive chef Nicolas Mazier to helm the kitchen. Mazier trained for months alongside Madrid’s executive chef Nacho Chicharro in order to deliver the secrets of Spanish cuisine to Miamians. According to anyone who's had it, you haven't experienced gastronomic perfection until you've tasted Tatel's truffled potato omelette. My dining companion devoured hers in a blink so it must have been good. The modern variations on classic Spanish dishes I sampled were all beautifully presented and tasted rather good, especially the carved suckling pig. Then again I’m a dedicated carnivore. I possibly wouldn’t visit a Spanish restaurant if I was a veggie. But if you’re a lover of pork, shaved truffles and Iberian ham, 1669 Collins Avenue in SoBe may be your new favourite place to feast. www.tatelrestaurants.com

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

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music& NIGHT LIFE THE CIRCUS DOESN'T LIVE HERE ANYMORE

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On Sunday 21st May 2017, Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey said its final farewell to a sold-out crowd of 17,000 incredibly enthusiastic circus fans, at the Nassau Veterans Memorial Coliseum in Uniondale, 19 miles east of New York City on Long Island, ending the almost one and a half century history of “The Greatest Show On Earth”.

It all began back in the late 80s, when Prussia was still a kingdom and Jesse James was robbing banks. Phineas Taylor Barnum was 61 years old when the circus collaboration was presented to him by a proposal to collaborate from mid-western circus managers, W.C. Coup and his partner, Dan Castello. A born showman, Barnum recruited many of his old friends and performers, and sought exciting new acts to join in his latest adventure, which was “to totally eclipse all other exhibitions in the world.” On 10th April 1871 “P.T. Barnum's Grand Traveling Museum, Menagerie, Caravan and Circus" opened in Brooklyn. The show was a massive success and hugely popular, and as the concept gained momentum Barnum secured a site which was to be a permanent home for his spectacle. Opening on 30th April 1874, The New York Hippodrome (later to be known as Madison Square Garden), was the largest public amusement structure ever built, seating over 10,000 and costing USD 150,000 back then. The lavish productions presented at the Hippodrome set the tone for the future of the circus spectacular, and first-class performances became synonymous with Barnum shows.

When Brit James Bailey’s enormously successful globally "The Great London Show” began encroaching on Barnum's American market, the idea of combining the two shows was broached and the two great showmen began working together. One of their first famous moves as Barnum and Bailey was the purchase of the legendary elephant Jumbo from the Royal Zoological Gardens in London.

Standing over 11½ feet tall and weighing 6½ tons it wasn't long before Jumbo was the fascination of America. Billed as a friend to the

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children of the world, Jumbo's appearances grossed more than USD 300,000 after only six weeks in the States, and was Barnum and Bailey's major attraction for over three years until the elephant's accidental death. But the tradition of using elephants in the circus had begun, and in 1883 Barnum famously offered to test the Brooklyn Bridge, which had just opened, by having elephants walk across it.

The authorities turned him down, but a year later, in a publicity stunt worthy of Barnum, elephants and other animals marched across the bridge anyway. Thus began the ritual parade of elephants through the Midtown Tunnel to announce the arrival of the circus in New York City. In 1887 an ageing Barnum relinquished part control of the show's management and the circus became officially known as “The Barnum & Bailey Greatest Show on Earth”.

Bailey continued the management of circus for many years after Barnum's death in 1891, touring Europe and the States and steadily building upon the grandeur of the production, travelling with 28 rail cars, employing over 1,000 people, introducing 5 rings, creating elaborate animated floats and wagons, and incorporating modern acts. However by the beginning of the 19th century, Bailey's rivals, the Ringling brothers, were as grand a production in scale and pageantry as the Barnum & Bailey show. After Bailey's death in 1906 his circus continued without a namesake at the helm, making the Ringling brothers the new kings of the circus world. A year later in July 1907 they purchased the Barnum & Bailey show and rights. In 1919, 28 years after Barnum's death, the shows combined and became known as “Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Combined Shows, The Greatest Show on Earth.” The circus survived the great depression, two world wars and the new media of its time, including radio, film and television.

American businessman Irvin Feld acquired Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey for USD 8 million on 11th November 1967, and marked the occasion with a ceremony held at the 86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

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Colosseum in Rome. A year later the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Clown College opened. Feld sold the circus to Mattel in 1971 for USD 50 million in Mattel stock but bought it back from Mattel in 1982.

Feld Entertainment moved the circus around the States by two simultaneously travelling mile-long trains, the Red Unit and the Blue Unit. Each train was almost 5,000ft in length comprising more than 55 cars weighing a total of 4,000 tons, and included everything from school rooms to animal cars, a diner-like restaurant known as “the Pie Car“, plus 33 conventional passenger coaches for circus personnel and their families. Around 250 people – performers, train crew members, porters, cooks, stagehands – lived year round on each train as they crisscrossed the country performing to an estimated 10 million people each year.

Still rooted in its 19th century traditions with a dash of the modern mixed in, clowns flopped, trapeze artists flew, wild animals jumped, contortionists bent, horses galloped, tightrope walkers wobbled and elephants balanced. But in recent years, the “Greatest Show on Earth” increasingly found itself in conflict with changing times, values and tastes. Families went out less together. Kids preferred to stare at tiny screens. Animal-rights activists opposed the long circus tradition of wild beasts, objectified and tamed and performing tricks for a crowd. And the cost of everything, from tiger food to liability insurance, sky-rocketed. The casts were huge. The musicians were all live. Although the crowd could still be counted in thousands the shows were rarely full, and so the circus tried to change with the times. Acts were bought in from all over the world. But ticket sales, which had been declining for a decade, markedly plummeted last year when the ageing elephants left the ring for the last time. Feld Entertainment spent years battling animal rights groups and accusations of elephant abuse. But even after the circus’ 40 Asian elephants were retired to Ringling’s 200-acre Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 141

Center for Elephant Conservation in Florida, the animal rights protestors – who had billed the production as "the saddest show on earth” – merely moved on to the continued use of big cats in the show, along with the dogs, sheep, llamas, kangaroos, horses and the rest of the travelling menagerie.

Eventually high operating costs coupled with plummeting attendances after the elephants were phased out made the circus unsustainable. Basically the business model no longer worked, and so in January of this year, Kenneth Feld, the CEO of Feld Entertainment, the producer of Ringling, announced that the circus would hold its final performances in May 2017. The massive travelling circus, which elated crowds from small towns to big cities across America with its exotic animals and death-defying feats, was to end its 146-year run. While circus performers and enthusiasts lamented the shutting down of “The Greatest Show on Earth”, animal rights activists who had sparred with Ringling for years said the end could not come soon enough.

In its prime Ringling was an enormous operation.

Its three-ring tent seated 12,000 people, featured two stages and depending on where you sat you could see a completely different show. It was that big. Back in the day, when the circus came to town, it really was like a holiday.

Ringling's absence leaves about two dozen circuses left on America’s roads, of various sizes and formats - some three-ring, some one-ring. But the circuses which are left are a great deal more flexible than Ringling could be with its vast trains and massive overheads.

Whether they will survive in years to come remains to be seen, but the veritable grandparent of the circus art form, and many other kinds of modern live entertainment, Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey, has sadly folded its big tent forever.

WATCH THE FINAL 21ST MAY 2017 PERFORMANCE OF RINGLING BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY CIRCUS 142 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

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GLOBETROTTER

GAVIN RAJAH SINCE LAUNCHING HIS EPONYMOUS LABEL IN 2000, GAVIN RAJAH HAS DEMONSTRATED HIS AMPLE SKILLS FOR ORIGINAL AND TECHNICALLY SUPERIOR WORKMANSHIP BALANCED WITH CREATIVITY AND COMMERCIAL SENSIBILITY, MAKING HIS BRAND SYNONYMOUS WITH FINE CRAFTSMANSHIP, LUXURIOUS FINISHES AND DIVINE FABRICS. THE RENOWNED SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION DESIGNER CHATS EXCLUSIVELY WITH THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

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What would you say led a young South African boy to develop a penchant for fashion?

The idea of creating something that was transformative for an individual really appealed to me. I liked the fact that people could wear something and it could change the way they felt about themselves. I wanted to create a world that was in some way a utopic vision filled with beautiful things (I soon realised that was not a viable proposition). The more I ventured out of South Africa I realised people appreciated the craftsmanship and aesthetic around the clothes I was making.

Please tell us a little bit about what it was like to be a child in the Rajah household.

I was constantly busy with music classes, art classes and a host of extra curricular activities. When I was younger I always thought that I would become a musician, but the thought of practising the piano night and day wore thin after a while. I was exceptionally opinionated and quite talkative.

What prompted your move from Durban to Cape Town?

My studies at the University of Cape Town.

You studied law at university. How did your fashion career come about?

I was an unhappy young lawyer since – with an unjust legal system and apartheid still around – it was a disheartening time to practise law. One day a friend told me that I needed to do something that made me feel happy and feel like I had purpose. Whilst at university I sold clothes that were rejects from my dad’s clothing business to make extra pocket money. I extended that to making a few simple pieces through a seamstress I had met which I would sell. One thing led to another and girl friends asked me to help remodel their prom dresses.

Eventually I could remodel them no more and would sketch what I thought they should wear. It was then that I really started to dress women and I enjoyed how happy people felt when they bought something from me. I learnt everything from people around me, by immersing myself into the production of clothing, and, having observed my dad for many years working in the clothing industry, I somehow recalled a lot of his skills. One thing that has remained is my absolute eye for detail and my hands-on approach – I think this is because I learnt every part of the garment making process, and my standards were very high from the outset since I was determined to not be mediocre.

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What was the pivotal moment when you decided that the fashion industry was to be your future and you basically went for it?

When people wanted to buy my pieces and were willing to pay the prices I was asking. I was hell bent on not being a struggling designer and was serious about my transition to the fashion industry. Luckily I also started being featured in lots of media.

Which part of the garment production process do you most enjoy?

I like the actual design part coupled with the construction process.

What would you say sets you apart from other international designers at your level?

Our studio is very labour intensive when it comes to hand finishing and embellishing so we effectively own all of these processes in house. Basically we still do things the old school way in our atelier. I equate luxury to hand finishing or making something by hand – this lends an emotional connection to the garments. We are able to do this because we have a highly skilled work force and the rand is weaker against foreign currency so we are competitive in the extreme.

What was the first notable fashion achievement that set you on the extraordinary journey of success you are on today?

Being asked to show during Couture Fashion Week in Paris

by Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture - the French trade association of high fashion. Whilst daunting I suddenly realised that this was ‘it’.

Tell us about the Gavin Rajah woman and how wearing one of your creations makes her feel?

I like to think that she ‘wears’ the garments and not the other way around. I love women who feel empowered wearing clothes without compromising on their femininity.

How do you source fabrics and what are your favourite types to work with?

We often have fabrics made for us. I love having custom made embroidered fabrics made for our collections. I simply adore silk, embroidery and beading.

Visiting which country or continent provides you with the most creative stimulation and ideas for new collections?

All travel is inspiring for me. Terrain, people, culture,

literature and art inspire me. I love Europe and Asia since they have such rich, diverse cultural legacies to draw inspiration from.

When designing a bespoke gown for a client, which part of the process takes the most time and care to get just right?

Understanding the client’s goal and in what context she will be wearing the garment. We always try to bring something of the client’s style and/or personality into a bespoke garment.

Tell us about meeting Nelson Mandela.

I had the privilege to work with him on some of the work of the Nelson Mandela Foundation, and have always been involved in his fundraising activities. He was an inspiring man, very visionary and was a great mentor.

Who has been the most fun and professional supermodel you’ve worked with?

Most definitely Naomi Campbell. She has a wicked sense of humour and is always up for a challenge. She is also one of the most compassionate and caring people I know.

What would you say are the essential elements of the Gavin Rajah brand’s DNA? Femininity, craftsmanship and pure unadulterated luxury.

What is the most lavish or extravagant gown you’ve ever designed and for whom?

Probably a wedding dress for a client. We sourced fabrics from Europe and it took over 8 months of embroidery to create the finished product. We do not mention our clients – couture is a world shrouded in secrecy I have learnt.

Will you ever design menswear?

I have but it’s not our core focus. It requires a whole new atelier and there are simply not enough hours in the day for me at present.

Please tell us about your work for the past decade as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador.

My work with UNICEF is about raising the profile of children’s causes. In particular I focus on violence against children, child sex abuse and child trafficking. These are not the popular poster causes that people want to see or confront. Somehow it makes people uncomfortable. I choose to champion crusades against these social evils.

Over the last decade I have worked to initiate #endviolence campaigns in South Africa, including raising funds to build

child sex abuse clinics and petitioning the government to foster changes in legislation.

How do you use fashion to raise awareness of kids from vulnerable communities?

Instead of using the visibility I have to gain the best seats at restaurants or preferential treatment I use it to bring visibility to these issues and use my shows as a platform to raise awareness of kids from vulnerable communities. I add delicate metaphors on my garments that are not obvious but contain meanings that unfold once I articulate the social concerns with press and clients. I also use fashion to raise funds for these causes. Part of the proceeds from my sales goes to various charitable causes.

Choosing fashion as a career is fraught with challenges.

What advice would you give to aspiring young designers?

Think carefully before choosing this path since it is not for the faint hearted! Fashion is a largely unregulated profession and to be immersed in it requires tenacity and sheer determination, not to mention talent. Be brutal with yourself – just because you like fashion doesn’t mean you’re a designer, and often vice versa. Creating a brand takes money and you really have to fight to instil confidence in your buyers and clients.

Travel is becoming increasingly easier and so we are hearing the term “Destination Couture” used more frequently. Your thoughts?

I am au fait with this as it’s a huge part of our business.

Clients fly in, get measured and have their toiles made, and once we have perfected the fit and proportions they fly out.

We are then on call to make special occasion wear. It suits many clients to have this ‘secret’ place where they can indulge in their couture fantasies.

Please name-check one talented young African designer to look out for.

Mozambican Taibo Bacar is a talented designer with a great aesthetic.

What makes Cape Town such a special place for you to live and work?

It’s maverick, has an irreverent sense of style and a particular ethos that is hard to find elsewhere. Africa has unique warmth found in its people but not easily found elsewhere - Cape Town possesses both that warmth and authenticity.

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Your most memorable vacations to date and what made them so special?

Six Senses Samui, made up of just 66 private villas, many with personal pools, is an eco resort that infuses a lot of chic into the word ‘eco’. Ensconced in a private villa with a butler for whom no request was too much, left me feeling refreshed and wanting more.

Langham Place, New York is a true oasis in the heart of bustling Manhattan. From its spacious guests rooms to its upscale bar and multiple culinary offerings – returning to this hotel was bliss after being out for a day on New York’s streets or crashing after a night out. The staff are simply amazing.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, not just because the linen and beds engulf you, but also the high level of service and the fact that the staff take a keen interest in making sure guests are well looked after.

How does Gavin Rajah wind down after a long day in his atelier?

Work, work and more work. If I do not have any social engagements that relate to work or my charitable causes I work from my study at home. I am also a huge sucker for reading and watching inspiring documentaries. Recently I have been appointed to the Advisory Board for Africa for Harvard University so I find myself engaged in projects that have the potential to transform young minds. Doing a lot of this from my bed (I am obsessed with great linen) makes it all relaxing!

If you could only take six items onto a plane what would they be?

HANRO sleep suit, Loro Piana cashmere inflatable airplane neck pillow, Kiehl's In-Flight Refreshing Facial Mist, iPad, iPhone and Wanderlust Air Travel Socks.

Your greatest career achievement to date?

Everyday is an achievement. You are only as good as your last thing. I think if you can wake up everyday and love doing what you do and find that it has purpose and meaning then that itself is the greatest achievement.

What’s next for Gavin Rajah?

We launch a home furnishings collection on 9th November 2017 about which we are really excited, together with a home fragrance range. www.gavinrajah.com 152 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

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G

AGUA DE MAR www.aguademar.com

GABRIEL GARCÍA MÁRQUEZ TOUR

ALQUÍMICO www.alquimico.com

www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo/

AMARONE www.restaurantamarone.nl

GAVIN RAJAH www.gavinrajah.com

B BALLROOM www.ballroomrotterdam.nl BAR TENDER www.bar-tender.nl

C CAFÉ DEL MAR

GELATERIA PARADISO www.facebook.com/gelateriaparadiso GETSEMANÍ www.demente.com.co

H HOTEL NEW YORK www.hotelnewyork.com

www.facebook.com/cafedelmarcartagena

I

CAFÉ HAVANA www.cafehavanacartagena.com

INDIAN ACCENT www.indianaccent.com

CAFÉ LABRU www.supermercadorotterdam.nl

ISLAND BAR www.facebook.com/IslandBarSiemReap

CHARMING HOUSE www.thecharminghouse.com

ITZ’ANA RESORT http://itzanabelize.com/resort/

CITY GUIDE ROTTERDAM www.cityguiderotterdam.com COCO HOUSE RESTAURANT

J

www.facebook.com/CocoHouseRestaurant

JOELIA www.joelia.eu

CUBE HOUSES www.en.rotterdam.info/locations/kijk-kubus-1

D

K KANTHA BOPHA CHILDREN'S HOSPITALS www.beat-richner.ch

DE BIJENKORF www.debijenkorf.nl

KATAMAMA www.katamama.com

DE WITTE AAP www.facebook.com/dewitteaap

KUNSTHAL www.kunsthal.nl/en

DEPOT ROTTERDAM www.depotrotterdam.nl

E EL BOLICHE CEBICHERÍA

L LAURENSKERK www.laurenskerkrotterdam.nl

www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria

M

EUROMAST www.euromast.nl

MAISON ALBAR HOTEL PARIS CÉLINE

F FG www.fgrestaurant.nl/en

www.maison-albar-hotel-paris-celine.com MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

MARGREETH OLSTHOORN

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA

www.shop.margreetholsthoorn.nl

www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/

MARÍA www.mariacartagena.com

SONEVA JANI www.soneva.com/soneva-jani

MARKTHAL www.markthal.nl/en

SPIDO CRUISES www.spido.nl

MEENT http://www.meent.nl

SS ROTTERDAM www.ssrotterdam.com

MOVICH ROOFTOP

SUPERMERCADO www.supermercadorotterdam.nl

www.movichhotels.com/eng/cartagena/movich-cartagen adeindias/

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MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN www.boijmans.nl

TAMBURLAINE www.thetamburlaine.co.uk

N NY BASEMENT www.nybasement.nl

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TATEL www.tatelrestaurants.com THE CENTRAL BOUTIQUE ANGKOR HOTEL www.centralboutiqueangkorhotel.com THE SAXON www.saxon.co.za THE STIRR www.thestirr.nl

PALÁCIO TANGARÁ www.palaciotangara.com/eng

THE SUICIDE CLUB www.thesuicideclub.nl

PARKHEUVEL www.parkheuvel.nl

THE VIP ROOM www.theviproom.eu

POFFERTJESSALON SETH www.poffertjessalonseth.nl

THE WHITBY

Q QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA www.qasralsarab.anantara.com

R

www.firmdalehotels.com/hotels/new-york/the-whitbyhotel/ TRAVEL CAMBODIA www.travelcambodia.com

V VAN OLDENBARNEVELTSTRAAT

ROTTERDAM MARRIOTT HOTEL

www.oldenbarneveltstraatrotterdam.nl

www.marriottrotterdam.com

VISIT ANGKOR www.visit-angkor.org

ROTTERDAM WELCOME CARD www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com

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W WITTE DE WITH CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART www.wdw.nl/en/

SAN ALBERTO CAFÉ www.cafesanalberto.com/en/

WORM www.worm.org

SANTANI www.santani.lk

WUNDERBAR www.worm.org/venues/wunderbar/

SIR ALBERT www.siralberthotel.com SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON www.sixsenses.com/zil-pasyon

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