The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2019 Issue 25

ISSUE 25 MAR-MAY 2019

PRAGUE KYOTO • BALI • HOTEL SAVOY, FLORENCE GUCCI GARDEN • ANA’S FIRST CLASS • LOU DALTON • MATSUHISA PARIS

Luxurious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Hamburg has become an icon of European grandeur. Since 1897 the elegant hotel welcomes guests from all over the world with refined style and timeless grace at the Inner Alster Lake in the heart of Hamburg.

156 luxuriously furnished guest rooms and suites combine international standards with local influences and exquisite materials. The culinary variety is outstanding, the hotel`s philosophy simple: service, service, service - cordially and authentic.

Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14 | 20354 Hamburg, Germany | T +49 (0) 40 3494 0 | hamburg@fairmont.com | fairmont-hvj.de

CHARLES BRIDGE

PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

HIGHLIGHTS MAR-MAY 2019 ISSUE 25

54 THE MAJESTIC CZECH CAPITAL

A breathtaking mix of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture, the Czech capital has been a tourist magnet for decades. Brimming with visitors year-round keen to cross one of Europe’s oldest bridges and visit the world’s largest castle complex, Nicholas Chrisostomou heads to PRAGUE to see whether its art, food and beverage scenes match its mighty historical and architectural prowess.

42 TROPICAL-CHIC RIO HOSPITALITY

Part of Rio’s allure has always been to marry tropical elegance with the casual and an anything goes ethos, to create an intoxicating tonic like no other. It is this Rio that Alex Benasuli experiences when staying at HOTEL FASANO RIO DE JANEIRO, which embodies the best of the famed Brazilian city and its motherland.

225 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Shropshire-born LOU DALTON spent much of her youth on her grandmother’s farm and left school at 16 to become a pattern cutter.

Two decades later, Dalton’s rugged-yet-refined AW19 collection has been bought by Browns and Bergdorf Goodman, and her collaboration with John Smedley is selling like hot cakes. Adrian Gibson catches-up with the fast-rising British menswear designer.

206 FIRENZE’S FASHION GARDEN OF EDEN

Brainchild of Gucci’s superstar creative director Alessandro Michele, Nicholas Chrisostomou investigates the brand’s restaurant, gallery and concept store in Florence, GUCCI GARDEN, where the fine diner, museum goer and fashion aficionado can all coalesce.

50 LIVE IT UP IN PARIS FOR FOUR DAYS

Opposite Gare du Nord, 25hours’ new 237-room Parisian property is an homage to the lively spirit of the exuberant 10th arrondissement in which it is located. In our issue 25 Prize Draw, win a fournight weekend stay for two in the heart of the French capital at lively 25HOURS HOTEL TERMINUS NORD, including welcome cocktails, breakfasts and a slap-up dinner at NENI restaurant.

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 5

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CONTENTS 8 EDITOR’S LETTER 10 CONTRIBUTORS 12 NEWSFLASH

The Cultured Traveller rounds-up the most important cultural experiences and unmissable festivals happening around the world in the coming months, including València’s parade of giant puppets LAS FALLAS in Spain; India’s ancient HOLI ritual to mark the beginning of spring; the CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL, this year headlined

by CHAKA KHAN; the planet’s richest horse race, the DUBAI WORLD CUP; ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL in Miami; the world’s biggest festival in the snow SNOWBOMBING, and SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL held annually 30 mins north of Los Angeles.

225

24 REST YOUR HEAD

The Cultured Traveller checks into SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG in the heart of the French capital; ubercool 5-room CASA TELMO on the Balearic island of Menorca; 150-yearold London hospitality landmark KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE, which has been reborn by the Soho House Group; Bermuda’s first new-build hotel for 45 years, THE LOREN; hip and trendy TRUNK boutique hotel in Tokyo, and the swishy WALDORF ASTORIA

BEVERLY HILLS, set in America’s most famously upscale neighbourhood.

120 SUITE ENVY

Positioned at the heart of Italy’s cultural capital on Piazza della Repubblica and standing shoulder-to-shoulder with the city’s designer stores, HOTEL SAVOY skilfully combines the personality of an Italian grand dame with the warmth and charm of a boutique property.

Nicholas Chrisostomou ventures to Tuscany to explore inimitable Florence from the divine surroundings of the city’s most fabulous accommodation, the DUOMO PRESIDENTIAL SUITE.

133 BOARDING PASS

Flying in first still has cachet and elicits excitement even amongst the most jaded of travellers. While All Nippon Airways’ premium product is not at the same level as Emirates and Singapore Airlines, it is the most stylish way to fly direct to Japan from North America and Europe. Alex Benasuli embraces refined, Japanese-style omotenashi hospitality in ANA’S 777 FIRST CLASS.

142 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Routinely flooded with globetrotters all searching for their own form of paradise, huge visitor numbers have contributed to Bali’s environmental

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184

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problems and persuaded many discerning holidaymakers to drop anchor elsewhere. But Carolyn McKay manages to kick-off her shoes in a divine clifftop vacation hideaway at BANYAN TREE UNGASAN, that strikes the perfect balance between Balinese spirituality, hotel functionality and five-star luxury.

152 SPOTLIGHT

In this day and age, any country which measures and protects the collective happiness and wellbeing of its population in terms of its Gross National Happiness must surely be on the bucket list of every happy-golucky globetrotter! Add to this royal tigers, soaring mountains, ancient traditions and tales of dragons, and the Himalayan destination of BHUTAN seems like nowhere else on earth.

The Cultured Traveller takes a look.

168 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

The pinnacle of Japanese civilization, history and culture, KYOTO also combines big city sophistication with small town charm. Having immersed himself in this most rewarding of destinations, Alex Benasuli feels that he will never be the same again.

Visions of golden leaf-accented dark wood pagodas, vermillioncoloured Torii gates and kimono-clad

women are forever seared into his memory. The joys of a city break simply don’t get better than this.

184 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

More than 30 years after the first Nobu opened in Beverly Hills, MATSUHISA PARIS took the French capital by storm when it opened in 2016, bringing chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s unique JapanesePeruvian cuisine to a city with a reputation for culinary conservatism.

Situated within the hallowed walls of the legendary Royal Monceau, the restaurant promises Joe Mortimer a celebratory dining experience that tantalises all of his senses.

212

212 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

DANIEL MÜLLER-SCHOTT is widely recognised as one of the best cellists of his generation and has played every great concert hall around the world. Once described by the New York Times as a “fearless player with outstanding technique”, when travelling to a performance his cello gets its own plane ticket and sits in the seat next to him. The Cultured Traveller catches-up with the globetrotting classical music ambassador.

236 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

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From left to right: A Buddhist Festival in Bhutan; The Duomo Presidential Suite, Hotel Savoy, Florence; The Church of Our Lady before Týn in Old Town Square, Prague.

EDITOR’S LETTER

T

ravelling should be all about exploring a place or destination for oneself and discovering the particular elements that appeal to you. I fear that social media may have taken us too far past this, in that we seem to be following the “likes” and dislikes of other people much more today than we otherwise would have a few years ago, and hence not uncovering anywhere near as many new wonders as we used to. It seems to me that too many travellers are piggybacking on the experiences of others, and truly missing out on making new discoveries for themselves.

I almost fell foul of this myself, a few months ago.

I was informed, by many, that Prague was “ruined” and well past its best. So multitudinous were the negative comments, that Prague was not planned to be a cover story. How wrong they all were. Yes, it was busy, but no more so than Rome or Florence, both of which have a far better rep than the Czech capital. First class hospitality, well-organised tourist attractions, fine cuisine, excellent cocktails, good shopping and friendly locals all contributed to one of the best city-break experiences in The Cultured Traveller’s history. So much so, that I returned a few months later to delve deeper into the heart of the beautiful city of 100 spires. (page54) Also in Spring 2019 issue 25: Carolyn McKay kicks‑off

her shoes in a Balinese clifftop hideaway that strikes the perfect balance between functionality and luxury (page142); Alex Benasuli feels that he may never be the same again, having been immersed in the enchanting Japanese city of Kyoto (page168); Adrian Gibson catches-up with fast-rising British menswear designer Lou Dalton (page225), and Joe Mortimer’s taste buds think it’s Christmas at Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s eponymous Parisian outpost, at the legendary Royal Monceau (page184).

I expect that many of you are planning your summer sojourns as we speak. Before you book the hotel that your best friend holidayed at last year, do a little bit of research and see what you can find. After all, the joy of globetrotting is in uncovering the unexpected, visiting somewhere different, sampling something new and going home with unique memories, isn’t it?

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

ISSUU.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER/DOCS • INSTAGRAM.COM/CULTUREDTRAVELLER • FACEBOOK.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER • WWW.THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • ADVERTISING ADS@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • EDITORIAL WORDS@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM 8 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

CONTRIBUTORS JOE MORTIMER

TASTE & SIP REVIEW Joe Mortimer is a UK-based writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality. Joe has visited 60 countries and stayed in more than 100 luxury hotels and resorts, as well as having wined and dined in some of the best restaurants in the world. In between journeys, Joe Mortimer has interviewed high-profile characters in the world of luxury including the chief executives and presidents of brands such as Lamborghini, LVMH, Hublot and Montblanc as well as legendary chefs including Pierre Gagnaire, Nobu Matsuhisa and Marco Pierre White.

ADRIAN GIBSON

STYLISH GLOBETROTTER Adrian worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of London’s leading department stores for more than two decades, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. More recently Adrian has been working in the Middle East selecting designer threads for both Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdales in Dubai. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent where ever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends, both on the world’s most fashionable streets and online.

ALEX BENASULI

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Alex Benasuli has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex also has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

CAROLYN MCKAY

NO SHOES REQUIRED

Carolyn McKay grew up in Australia, taking her first overseas trip when she was 16. This trip sparked an intense passion to travel. In the last twenty years, via her teaching, photography and writing, she has lived in Jakarta, London and New York and travelled to numerous destinations in between. Based in Sri Lanka for the past few years, she uses her Indian Ocean base to travel regularly within Asia Pacific. Carolyn especially loves exploring markets, and is always on the lookout for a quality coffee and a comfortable spot to people watch.

10 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

IN THE HEART OF PARIS, BETWEEN THE HIGHLY ELEGANT FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ AND THE MYTHICAL CHAMPS-ELYSÉES AVENUE, EXPERIENCE A FASHION SHOW ATMOSPHERE. A GLAMOROUS VISION OF PARISIAN STYLE, INSPIRED BY HAUTE COUTURE.

15, RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS – 75008 PARIS – FRANCE TEL : (+33)01 44 94 14 14 – H1295@SOFITEL.COM – WWW.SOFITEL-PARIS-LEFAUBOURG.COM

ITB BERLIN

cultural tourism, adventure travel, medical tourism, travel technology, LGBT travel and etravel. A map of the exhibition layout is available online, so you can plan what to see before arriving.

This mammoth, annual event has surprises around every corner - expect everything from flamenco dancing to henna hand-painting, massages to cooking demonstrations, EDM to folk dancing. For travel professionals there are also press conferences, talks, product presentations and networking events.

6-10 March 2019 www.itb-berlin.de

GERMANY The world’s largest tourism trade fair could be just the ticket if some inspiration is needed for your next cultured travelling experience! ITB Berlin is billed as a trip around the globe in just a few hours, and an opportunity to explore destinations in over 180 countries. With more than 10,000 exhibitors it might be a bit of a nightmare to navigate, but thankfully it’s made easier by being divided into regions and thematic sections, including responsible tourism, business travel,

LAS FALLAS SPAIN This noisy, exuberant celebration, which involves masses of fireworks and the burning of giant puppets, attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world to València. Held in honour of St. Joseph’s Day on 19th March, Las Fallas is believed to have originated in a pagan celebration of the spring equinox and is first recorded as being held in the late 15th century. Each neighbourhood in Valencia 12 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

funds the construction of its own ‘falla’ the wood and papier-mâché sculptures at the heart of the fiesta - which often reach 15 metres high and usually poke fun at local and international politicians and celebrities. The fallas are placed at key points around the city so visitors can wander about and check them out, before they are burned on night of the final day (19th March) in a ceremonial explosion, accompanied masses of fireworks. Expect many effigies of Donald Trump to be raised to the ground!

15-19 March 2019 www.visitvalencia.com

2019 F1 AUSTRALIAN GRAND PRIX AUSTRALIA

ST. PATRICK’S DAY IRELAND Held to commemorate Ireland’s patron saint and the arrival of Christianity, St. Patrick’s Day has been an official Christian feast day since the early 17th century. Legend has it that the association with shamrocks and the “wearing of the green” stems back to Saint Patrick’s use of the three-leaved plant to explain the Holy Trinity to the pagan Irish. Celebrated in more countries than any other national festival, today St. Patrick’s Day is a tribute to the far-reaching influence of the Emerald Isle’s expatriate population. However, there’s nothing like experiencing 17th March in Ireland itself, where the public holiday is the climax of a long party. The official festival, established by the Irish government 24 years ago, includes four days of street parades, concerts, céilithe (traditional music sessions), theatre performances and fireworks.

Whilst the best place to participate in the revelry is Dublin, cities, towns and villages throughout Ireland hold their own parades and festivals.

17 March 2019 www.stpatricksfestival.ie

The second oldest surviving motor race in Australia (after the Alpine Rally), the F1 Rolex Australian Grand Prix is also the first opportunity of the season for fans to catch a glimpse of new supercars on Melbourne’s famous Albert Park Grand Prix Circuit. On 17th March, Lewis Hamilton will start his world championship defence with the likes of Sebastian Vettel on his tail. Meanwhile, Australia’s Daniel Ricciardo will be vying for a podium spot in his hotly anticipated first race for Renault Sport.

Albert Park is an exhilarating setting for drivers and spectators alike, since it boasts a thrilling combination of fast straights and demanding slow speed turns with multiple overtaking opportunities. The Heineken Village offers a unique and interactive setting with races, where fans can unwind and enjoy the complete Formula 1 experience in style. Meanwhile, an F1 Fan Zone is home to motor shows and kids’ corner, so there’s something for every family member.

17 March 2019 www.australia-grand-prix.com/en

HOLI INDIA This ancient Hindu ritual to mark the beginning of spring - otherwise known as the Festival of Colours due to the bright powder participants throw at each other - is essentially a two-day celebration of the triumph of good over evil. The proceedings begin with the lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising how the God Vishnu helped burn the devil Holika, according to Hindu scriptures. The next day, Rangwali Holi is when people delight in covering their neighbours in water and a rainbow of gulal, or paint powder (apparently Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in this manner). While Holi is observed throughout the world, the best places to see the festival are India and Nepal, especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur. One note: women should avoid walking about alone during Holi as some men take it as an opportunity to get a little too friendly!

21 March 2019 www.goindia.about.com

CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL SOUTH AFRICA Celebrating its twentieth birthday in 2019, the Mother City’s annual award-winning celebration of jazz will once again take over the Cape Town International Convention Centre for two full days, featuring every type of live performer, from global legends and festival newcomers to musical storytellers and up-tempo high-energy acts for younger attendees. More than forty local and international artists will perform on five stages, including Cameroonian Grammy Award-winning jazz bassist; London-based saxophonist

and composer Nubya Garcia; South Africa’s Soweto Gospel Choir; Brazilian multi Latin Grammy Award-winning jazz pianist, singer and composer Eliane Elias, and French multiinstrumentalist singer FKJ. Topping the bill will be Chaka Khan (pictured) who is arguably one of the world’s most famous musicians complete with a rich musical legacy including 10 Grammy Awards. Khan is a songwriter, actor, author, philanthropist, entrepreneur and activist who has influenced generations of recording artists, releasing 22 albums and racking-up ten Billboard #1 songs in the process, including her smash hit ‘I’m Every Woman’.

29-30 March 2019 www.capetownjazzfest.com

DUBAI WORLD CUP

The culmination of Dubai’s World Cup carnival, the main event at Meydan Racecourse, will see USD 35million of prizes presented to the winners of the day’s nine races, which include eight thoroughbred contests and one for purebred Arabians. The after-race concert typically draws some of the biggest names in pop (the past few years have seen SIA, Janet Jackson, Kylie and Jennifer Lopez take to the stage) and the day naturally concludes with a massive fireworks display.

30 March 2019 www.dubaiworldcup.com

U.A.E. Get the hatbox down from the top of the wardrobe and dry clean your best designer togs - the planet’s richest annual horse race is upon us again! Held in one of the world’s most talked-about cities and attracting the cream of Dubai society as well as a fair few international glitterati, the Gulf’s leading equestrian event is as much about being seen as it is a tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses.

ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL U.S.A. Regularly voted the world’s best by DJ Magazine, Carl Cox, Sasha, Jon Digweed and Sven Väth will be among the headliners when one of the world’s favourite electronic music festivals cranks up the volume in new downtown Miami locations for 2019: historic Virginia Key Beach Park and Miami Marine Stadium. This year’s line-up fulfils the festival organises commitment to expanding house and techno programming. Eric Prydz will 14 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

perform a solo set, as well as a set under his Cirez D techno alias alongside Adam Beyer. Also billed are two epic collaborations, Dog Blood (Boys Noize and Skrillex) and Gigantic NGHTMRE (Big Gigantic and NGHTMRE) that will surely be bringing some serious heat to this year’s festival. Popular acts including Ghastly, 3LAU, Malaa, Elephante and WHIPPED CREAM will be performing on the Ultra Worldwide stage. Meanwhile, the UMF Radio stage will be bumping with epic sets from Jai Wolf, Kasbo and Pluko, along with a mau5trap takeover.

29-31 March 2019 ultramusicfestival.com

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NAGHOL LAND DIVING

preparation period, the men seclude themselves from the women and refrain from sex. Tribal members on terra firma sing and dance to help the divers be brave. The vines act as bungee cords and each diver is invited to build their own platform and select their own vine so that no one else can be blamed for a fatal accident! If the vine is too short the jumper will crash into the tower.

If it’s too long he will almost certainly break bones or possibly even perish.

Every Saturday between April and June 2019 www.vanuatu.travel

VANUATU This is not for the faint hearted! Essentially the precursor to bungee jumping, this ancient ritual sees brave men and boys of the Sa tribe (near Tansip, on Pentecost Island in a remote part of the South Pacific) hurtle towards the ground head first from wooden towers of 20-30 metres high, at speeds of more than 40mph, with nothing more than tree vines tied around their ankles and no safety equipment. During the

SNOWBOMBING THAILAND Towards the end of the traditional annual ski season, the world’s biggest festival in the snow kicks off in the Austrian resort of Mayrhofen for a week. Frequently referred to as the Glastonbury of mountain gatherings, days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music in mountain-top locales, feasting on vast spreads and relaxing in luxury hotel saunas plus over 100 spas and pools. Nights deliver a completely different experience, with cutting-edge

COACHELLA U.K. California’s glossy, glam, dry and heated answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury, held at the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado Desert over two consecutive weekends, Coachella is the first major international music event in the annual festival calendar. Essentially a massive well-organised cultural playground hosting up to 100,000 people at any one time, Coachella is attended by sweaty fashionistas, designer-hippies and musical trendsetters. Known for its show-stopping all-star line16 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

performances happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets, and Austria’s largest fancy dress street party. This year’s mammoth 20th anniversary festivities feature more than 100 of the biggest acts in the business, headlined by famed British electronic music duo Groove Armada (DJ set), Grammy Award-winning BritishAmerican rock band Fleetwood Mac, world-famous British DJ Fatboy Slim and pioneering electronic band The Prodigy.

8-13 April 2019 www.snowbombing.com

up and breathtaking large-scale art installations, the 2019 20th birthday line-up for this veritable global gathering is no exception and is led

by Ariana Grande (performing on both weekends), Childish Gambino and Tame Impala, plus Idris Elba and DJ Snake on the decks. Other notable acts include Solange, Janelle Monáe, Aphex Twin, Billie Eilish, The 1975, Anderson, Paak, Kacey Musgraves, Kid Cudi, Weezer, CHVRCHES, Gesaffelstein, Christine and the Queens, Mac DeMarco, Maggie Rogers and South Korean girl pop group BLACKPINK. 12-14 + 19-21 April 2019 www.coachella.com

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL U.S.A. About 30 minutes north of Los Angeles, the Californian city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest cowboy gatherings which celebrates the state’s western heritage: the Santa Clarita Cowboy Festival. This action-packed happening routinely attracts more than 10,000 attendees annually for its live music, authentic western activities, trick ropers, gun spinners, magicians and more, as

well as living history exhibits and fine Western gear, not to mention Dutch oven peach cobbler which is reputedly so tasty it’s earned a reputation of its own! This year, former festival director Mike Fleming and his band, New West, will host “New West and a Tribute to Don Edwards” at Don Ygnacio del Valle’s estancia, which is one of the best surviving examples of an early Californio Rancho in its original setting. Also this year, a four meat “Cowboy Cook-Off” will take place in the categories of pork, pork ribs, brisket and chicken!

13-14 April 2019 www.cowboyfestival.org

SONGKRAN

images of the beloved Buddha. Today, the festival has transitioned into three days of fun-filled water fights and non-stop revelry in the scorching heat, soaking locals and visitors alike in the teeming streets, with buckets of water, hoses and super-soakers. Previously held on dates that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar, whilst Songkran is now commemorated on the same days every year, the sopping wet celebrations typically begin before and end many days after the official holiday!

13-15 April 2019 www.songkranday.com

THAILAND The hottest month of the year in Thailand sees the entire country go bananas in friendly water fights and street parties that last nearly a week! Derived from the Sanskrit word sa�kr�nti, and also known as Thai New Year or the Thailand Water Festival, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members and elders to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL U.K. Taking place in venues both familiar and unusual across the bohemian, British south coast city, Brighton Festival is an annual celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and literature via a variety of events. A veritable creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment happenings - including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances - many of the festival’s events are specially commissioned and have their first public airings 18 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

during these three weeks every May. Previous guest directors of this critically acclaimed London-By-The-Sea mixed arts fest have included actress Vanessa Redgrave (2012) and cartoonist David Shrigley (2018). Guest director for the festival’s 2019 outing is multi awardwinning Malian singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Rokia Traoré, pictured. Traoré’s album “Bowmboï” won the Critics Award category at the BBC Radio 3 Awards for World Music in 2004, and “Tchamantché” won Victoires de la Musique World Music Album of the Year in 2009. (www.rokiatraore.net/en) 4-26 May 2019 www.brightonfestival.org

CINCO DE MAYO

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MEXICO In mid-20th century America, the celebration of Cinco de Mayo became, amongst Mexican immigrants, a way of boosting pride in their heritage, not to mention an excuse to eat Mexican food and drink tequila all day! But in Mexico the holiday is celebrated a little bit differently: since Cinco de Mayo actually commemorates a 1862 military victory, the day is celebrated in the state of Puebla with parades, speeches, mouthwatering meals and historical re-enactments of the famed battle. In Puebla, visitors experience an authentic and vibrant celebration, featuring art spectacles, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands and partying in the streets. Be sure to sample mole poblano - the most traditional Cinco de Mayo dish. It’s a thick sauce made with green chillies usually served over turkey or chicken.

5 May 2019 www.everfest.com

INDIA

GIRONA FLOWER FESTIVAL SPAIN The historic Spanish city of Girona is best known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman remains of Força Vella fortress. But, for ten days every year, Girona’s buildings, courtyards, monuments and gardens are adorned with more than one hundred spectacular floral displays.

Whole streets become art installations accompanied by music, light and fountains, plus the intoxicating scent of thousands of flowers. Whilst the Town Hall always boasts a wellconstructed and somewhat dignified display that befits its central location on the Plaça del Vi (the city’s bustling square), throughout Girona during the festival, the wonderful ensembles of striking colours and penetrating aromas that accompany the cultural heritage of this beautiful Catalan city, make it a must visit spring destination.

11-19 May 2019 www.gironatempsdeflors.cat

HAY FESTIVAL WALES For ten days annually from the end of May until early June, when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny, thousands of literary buffs young and old alike descend upon Hay-on-Wye, in Wales’ beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, to sit and read books. The worldfamous Hay Festival celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, 20 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists, and the power of great ideas to transform peoples’ way of thinking, and gives everyone from children to professors the opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word.

Known as the cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala, Thrissur is rich in history, brimming in cultural heritage and wealthy in archaeological treasures. If you have a weakness for colourful Indian festivals that both delight and assault the senses, then this is the one for you, complete with fireworks, folk dancing, revelry and drumming. In a region in which elephants are a common feature of religious festivities, Thrissur Pooram stands out as an observance that is especially endowed with the presence of these giants, which are, of course, the main attraction and decorated with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings. Ornate parasols - carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles - add to the stunning overall visual feast of it all.

13 May 2019 www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

One of this year’s headline events is a performance by the legendary Gipsy Kings, featuring André Reyes, in the evening of 30th May. The Gipsy Kings first captured the world’s imagination in 1987 with self-titled album ‘Gipsy Kings’. More than three decades later, the band has become a live phenomenon, known for its energetic sets that feature infectious Latin rhythms and virtuoso guitar playing.

23 May-2 June 2019 www.hayfestival.com/wales

ST. PATRICK’S DAY

There’s nothing like experiencing St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland, where the 17th March public holiday is the climax of four days of street parades, concerts, theatrical performances and partying 17 March 2019

Rest Your Head

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CONRAD BORA BORA NUI BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA

SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA ANDBEYOND TENGILE RIVER LODGE Situated in a serene setting on a bend of the Sand River, in private 65,000-hectare Sabi Sands Game Reserve which flanks the south western section of South Africa’s famed Kruger National Park, andBeyond Tengile River Lodge was built sustainably with local materials and an extremely light footprint so as to minimise its impact on the incredible surroundings and provide guests with a tranquil experience. Sand camouflages the lodge’s rooftops and water treatment systems recycle waste water for irrigation use. Discerning travellers will know that Sabi Sands is renowned for its high density of wildlife and prolific Big Five sightings.

“Tengile” translated means tranquil and this lies at the very heart of the lodge’s design. Just nine spacious air-conditioned suites offer expansive space for living, relaxing and sleeping. Raised above ground level, they give the impression that they’re floating over the riverbed and provide exceptional views from the dappled shade of a cool riparian forest - a setting that’s unique to Sabi Sands. Complete with sunken lounges, elegant bedrooms, sprawling en-suite bathrooms (featuring both indoor and outdoor rain-showers) and decks with private lap pools, all suites open out into the forest, creating private spaces for guests to sit or dine al fresco.

Every suite is equipped with a pair of Swarovski Optik binoculars for guests’ use and complimentary wi-fi.

In the main lodge areas, bespoke pieces of artwork and furniture together with contemporary African fabrics and finishes, celebrate the talent of local designers and artists. Meanwhile, the floorplan ensures a seamless indoor-outdoor flow, the viewing deck being a focal point.

The incredible wildlife is obviously the main focus of every stay, with twice daily game drives and interpretive bush walks an inherent part of the safari experience. Outside of these activities, the lodge features a gym and in-suite massages can be arranged.

Gourmet food paired with delectable South African wines combined with intimate and attentive service courtesy of warm and friendly staff make andBeyond Tengile River Lodge a unique and special safari paradise. www.andbeyond.com

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 27

MENORCA, SPAIN CASA TELMO Sporting an altogether more laid-back beat than its infamous Balearic neighbour, beautiful beaches and upscale hotels are luring a sophisticated insider crowd to Menorca these days.

Punctuated by the historic twin towns of Mahón and Ciutadella which are endearing in very different ways, not to mention a plethora of Neolithic monuments scattered across the island, Menorca is the place for a relaxed G&T with friends in a small bar overlooking the Med, rather than an overpriced bottle of vodka and banging house music. Indeed, if it wasn’t for the common language, Ibiza and Menorca couldn’t be more different if they were thousands of miles apart.

6km from Menorca airport, in the very centre of Mahón, uber-cool five-bedroom Casa Telmo occupies a pretty 19th century townhouse, and has been designed to welcome visitors from all over the world who want to enjoy the relatively unspoilt Spanish paradise isle and its Caribbean-like beaches.

The boutique hotel’s millennial owners (twentysomething interior designers from Barcelona and founders of Quintana Partners Studio), based their design aesthetic on the antics of a fictional globetrotting traveller named Telmo, whom they imagined had roamed the world before landing on the island of Menorca. The décor of each guest room reflects a stop on his journey and the end result is wonderfully colourful, fun and eccentric.

Despite the complete overhaul of the threestorey building, its elegant bones and original features still remain, most noticeably traditional terracotta tiling and chunky oak beams. But now they are skilfully offset by a variety of objets d’art and kitsch paraphernalia which its owners look to have picked-up in Europe’s flea markets, all of which have been employed to great effect.

Of the five quirky guest rooms, M is the one to book. Sporting a retro pink-tiled rainshower room, tartan chaise, unpainted plaster walls and a floor-to-ceiling antique sideboard filling a whole wall and serving as a headboard, M couldn’t be further from Ibiza if you tried. www.casatelmo.com

28 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA CONRAD BORA BORA NUI Halfway between Australia and the USA and fifty minutes by ‘plane northwest of Tahiti in the heart of the French Polynesian South Pacific archipelago, Bora Bora rises from the sea like a veritable jewel, seemingly protected by one of the planet’s most stunning lagoons. It’s a tiny speck of a volcanic island with a total landmass of just over 30sqkm.

Being surrounded by beautiful coral reefs and islets quite literally make it a dream destination.

Famous for its crystal waters in fifty shades of blue and all-luxury accommodation much of which is over-water bungalows, Bora Bora is popular honeymooners and just about anyone who enjoys being pampered on an island and always a stone’s throw from tropical waters. Naturally, vacationing in such surroundings doesn’t come cheap, making Bora Bora the playground of the rich and famous or a one-off treat for newlyweds.

Presiding over the longest (more than halfmile-long) stretch of white-sand beach of any Bora Bora hotel, on the southwest end of Motu To’opua, the Conrad was previously a Hilton before an extensive multi-million-dollar refurb.

As a Hilton it was the first resort to feature Bora Bora’s now iconic over-water suites. As a Conrad, the property now boasts 29 garden and beach villas plus 86 overwater bungalows, including the island’s only double-storey Presidential Suites which comprise two master bedrooms, a pool, hot tub and sauna, as well as butler service.

Approaching Conrad Bora Bora Nui on one of the resort’s motorboats, across impossibly blue waters, the resort genuinely looks like a screensaver which has come to life, and it soon becomes apparent that guests’ every whim is amply catered for. A fleet of luxe golf carts whisk guests between their lodgings, a variety of restaurants and bars, sprawling hilltop spa, 18-hole mini golf course, huge tiered oceanfront pool and the sea, where complimentary stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and snorkel gear await. As if this wasn’t enough to occupy guests, Conrad’s “Stay Inspired” program offers a multitude of destinationfocused activities and excursions, which on Bora Bora includes snorkelling with manta rays. www.conradhotels.com

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 31

PARIS, FRANCE SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG Nestled between the Place de la Concorde and Rue Saint-Honoré, with the US Embassy and some of the world’s leading fashion houses for neighbours, Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg is the epitome of Parisian luxury: a discreet hideaway in the heart of the city of lights.

The 148-room hotel, masterminded by design guru Didier Gomez, is effortlessly stylish, from its unassuming entrance and gorgeous gold and grey toned lobby, to fabulous Bar Le Faubourg and inviting Blossom restaurant, both of which are tasteful and refined.

Guestrooms pay homage to the hotel’s illustrious history as the former Hôtel de Vouillemont, once a high society haunt, and more recently, the headquarters of Marie-Claire magazine.

My ‘Luxury Room’ on the sixth floor is petite but well proportioned, with a small walk-in dressing room and en suite bathroom with Hermes amenities. The bedroom is framed by a vintage photograph by British fashion photographer Cecil Beaton, depicting models in Charles James ball gowns for Vogue magazine. The black, taupe and teal palette of the room is elegant and understated, with a rich textured bedspread and a Louis XV armchair and footstool. Tasselled bedside lights and moulded ceilings add a touch of ornate embellishment that grace the charming room with the air of a sophisticated private mansion, an effect increased by the small balcony, affording me glimpses of Place de la Concorde to the right and the shops of Rue Saint-Honoré to the left.

Menus at Blossom restaurant are changed every three months to include dishes made with seasonal ingredients, and Paris’ relatively newfound interest in vegetarian and vegan cuisine is apparent in the lunch menu, which features a selection of dishes for healthy and ethically-minded diners. Guests are spoiled for choice at breakfast, where baskets loaded with buttery croissants and pain au chocolate are stacked next to decadent extras like apple compote and honey from the hotel’s rooftop beehive.

The unflappable concierge team rise to every occasion, from suggesting an appropriate venue to watch a big sporting event, to swiftly making alternative arrangements when protests prevent my Mercedes S-Class airport transfer from reaching the hotel.

With its sharply cut, elegant style and the anticipatory hospitality to match, Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg is a rare treat: a glamorous haute couture haven where soft-touch service is just as pleasing as its timeless aesthetic appeal. www.sofitel-paris-lefaubourg.com

32 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

BERMUDA THE LOREN Dating back to 1609 when it was first discovered by shipwrecked English sailors, Bermuda is the oldest remaining British overseas territory and lies in the North Atlantic (yes, Bermuda is not in the Caribbean) around 1,000 km east of North Carolina. Just 21 square miles in area, it is made up of a crescent-shaped chain of 181 islets, rocky outcrops and islands, and basks in glorious sunshine for much of the year.

Among Bermuda’s many delights are pink coral-tinted sandy beaches, numerous opportunities for sailing, diving and sports fishing, a liberal number of world-class golf courses scattered across the island and some rather excellent restaurants. Lush greenery, pastelcoloured cottages, traditional British pubs and colonial buildings dotting the island add to Bermuda’s quaint, laidback charm.

Bermuda’s hospitality scene isn’t exactly contemporary, with many of the island’s most popular hotels dating back to the 19th century, complemented by a number of unspecial smaller establishments.

Think lots of chintz and multitudinous overstuffed sofas. So, when Bermuda’s first new-build hotel in 45 years opened its swishy doors, it was always going to be something of a game changer.

In stark contrast to the island’s traditional British-colonial style (which is evident pretty much everywhere in Bermuda), The Loren is all sleek finishing, clean lines and angles.

Set on the stunning South Shore of the island which boasts some of Bermuda’s most beautiful beaches, The Loren straddles two of them, and is just ten minutes away from the airport. The capital, Hamilton, is 15 minutes away.

Inside, light and airiness prevail, and the lobby is more akin to the stylish living room of a well-to-do friend than a hotel. Chintzy and overstuffed The Loren is not. Contemporary and design forward it most certainly is, and the sophisticated colour palette is carried through to its very 45 generous guest rooms, all of which boast gorgeous bathrooms with walk-in rain showers, deep freestanding tubs, twin sinks, MALIN+GOETZ toiletries and custom flip-flops.

Outside, the infinity pool is carved into a cliff, is more for coolingoff in rather than exercising, and is so close to the ocean that bathers get splashed by sea spray. A bijou spa offers a range of rather good bespoke treatments using natural botanicals and French skincare brand Yon-ka. There’s a post-golfing massage, a hairdresser to tame unruly locks and The Loren has a tie-up with The Mid Ocean Golf Club five minutes-drive away. It may have been a long time coming, but The Loren is most certainly a hospitality hole in one for Bermuda. www.thelorenhotel.com

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 35

BEVERLY HILLS, U.S.A. WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS Is there a discerning globetrotter on the planet who hasn’t heard of Beverly Hills? From luxury hotels and world-class shopping, to celebrated restaurants and celebrity homes, Rodeo Drive, renowned art galleries and the iconic 90210 zip code, Beverly Hills is undoubtedly the luxury capital of America. And when it comes to hospitality, it offers everything from boutique hotels to luxury resorts, five-star landmarks and lavish retreats.

Two of the world’s most famous hotels are in Beverly Hills - The Beverly Wilshire and The Beverly Hills Hotel - so was there really room for another luxury hospitality haven? The answer is “yes”, because there’s always room for more luxury in Beverly Hills! And so, after ten years of planning and a construction cost of more than USD1 million per room, the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills threw open its glamorous doors, overlooking the so-called “Golden Triangle” district, and quickly became a favourite amongst California’s movers and shakers.

Conceived by much celebrated French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, Waldorf Astoria’s first West Coast build is overtly opulent at every turn, kicking-off with the soaring, threetiered lobby bedecked in Lalique, Italian marble, 22-carat gold leaf and polished cherry wood.

Upstairs, the 119 rooms and 51 suites are just as OTT, boasting enormous walk-in closets, floorto-ceiling windows and private balconies that offer views towards the Hollywood Hills and beyond.

On the expansive rooftop deck, LA’s finest tan and chillax around a sparkling saltwater pool and nibble on divine fare prepared by Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s crew. Unsurprisingly, given that the famed New York-based celebrity chef oversees the entire hotel’s dining program, everything one eats at Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is top notch and tasty.

For those who never want the party to end, the hotel’s Rolls Royce offers guests complimentary two-mile rides. And just when you thought it couldn’t get any more L.A., there’s rooftop yoga on Sundays, complete with views stretching to Griffith Observatory and Hollywood. www.waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com

36 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

LAS CATALINAS, COSTA RICA SANTARENA HOTEL Visiting Costa Rica has become increasingly popular in recent years, not least because its strikingly diverse terrain of lush forests, wildlife reserves and tropical beaches offers a little something for every traveller. Beach lovers head to Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula’s palm-fringed coastline for sun and surf. Nature-seekers make their way to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca before venturing inland to zip line over the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and hike up Arenal Volcano. Native Costa Ricans being incredibly tourist-friendly and welcoming people from all over the world with open arms is fuelling the country’s gentle tourism boom. And a growing number of Costa Ricans (especially in the tourist industry and professional fields) speak English.

A beautiful, car-free and entirely walkable new beach town, situated along the shores of the Pacific in Guanacaste province in the northwest of the country, Las Catalinas was purpose-built to create a healthy, sustainable, fulfilling and fun lifestyle for its residents and visitors, and make it easy to connect with nature. And the water in the bay of Catalinas - on both sandy Danta and its smaller companion beach Danita - is incredibly calm for central America, making it perfect for SUP and snorkelling.

Perched above Danta Beach, Santarena Hotel taps into Catalinas’ boho lifestyle, not least with its organic approach to wellness and dining. The elevated local cuisine is strictly farm-to-fork with a focus on sustainability. And guests are encouraged to make the most of their stay by hiking and mountain biking through the tropical forest inland or kayaking and scuba diving along the coast.

Back at base, 45 individually-designed rooms feature king-sized beds, timber floors fashioned from sustainable woods and large bathrooms with locally sourced amenities. Most boast private balconies adorned with handmade Cuban-style pressed tiles.

Neutral colour palettes offset with bursts of aqua and sea blue provide a calming yet vibrant atmosphere.

A roof-top lounge and swimming pool completes the offering to make Santarena Hotel the perfect base from which to explore Costa Rica’s coastline and tropical dry forest. www.santarenahotel.com

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 39

LONDON, U.K. KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE Kettner’s, the Soho restaurant founded in 1867 by a man once thought to be a former chef of Napoleon III, has been reborn as an affordably glamorous hotel and restaurant courtesy of the Soho House group (the private members club which backs onto Kettner’s).

In its heyday, it’s said that Auguste Kettner’s establishment was the location of trysts between Edward VII and actress Lillie Langtry, who were able to rendezvous thanks to a network of tunnels between the restaurant and Palace Theatre across the road. Oscar Wilde became a regular. Later, so was Agatha Christie.

In restoring and enhancing the beautiful building’s many listed features, the upstairs “cabinets particulier” dining rooms, (apparently home to much naughtiness in the past), have been transformed into 33 rather spiffing bedrooms, which mix French-inspired touches with William Morris headboards, are heavy on pattern and texture yet retain their original Georgian fireplaces and wooden floorboards.

The room to book is the first floor 80sqm Grade II-listed Jacobean Suite, which not only boasts a spacious art nouveau-decorated living and dining area, but also a large freestanding copper bath and its own private entrance onto Greek street. (From GBP800 per night) Meanwhile, downstairs, the creamy, delicate plasterwork, listed mouldings and original mirrors of the restaurant and two bars have been returned to their former glory - thankfully without losing Kettner’s slightly naughty past. Even the mosaic floor in the champagne bar was painstakingly restored.

Thus, has begun another chapter in the history of a Soho institution that first brought French cuisine to London. And, whilst no tunnels were discovered during the renovation, arranging a discreet têteà-tête at today’s Kettner’s (especially in the Jacobean Suite) is infinitely much easier than it was 150 years ago.. www.kettnerstownhouse.com

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RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL HOTEL FASSANO RIO DE JANEIRO Blessed by a dramatic topography of undulating ocean bays with ribbons of seemingly endless white sand beaches framed by lush mountains, Rio’s natural advantages and good looks automatically propel it to the top of the world’s most stunning metropoles.

The Rio of the 1950s and 1960s gave us sultry Bossa Nova and a sensual interpretation of mid-century modern architecture and design. Ipanema Beach, Immortalised forever in Antônio Carlos Jobim’s iconic “Girl From Ipanema”, is famous the world over for its long, picture perfect beach, swaying palm trees and scantilyclad beachgoers and volleyball players. Part of Rio’s allure has always been to marry tropical elegance with the casual and an anything goes ethos, to create an intoxicating tonic like no other. It is this Rio that one experiences when staying at Hotel Fasano Rio De Janeiro, which embodies the best of Rio and its motherland.

The Fasano family arrived in Brazil more than a century ago, from Italy, and first established its reputation for attentive and upscale hospitality in São Paulo. Known initially for its gastronomic excellence in cafés and then restaurants, the family opened its São Paulo hotel in 2003 to immediate acclaim. The family’s name has since become a synonym for discreet luxury.

Ideally located in the Arpoador section of Ipanema, the beachfront Fasano in Rio benefits from being on a somewhat quieter part of the beach, affording a sense of intimacy and discretion, while at the same time being a stone’s throw from the cafés, boutiques and parade of gym-toned bodies that make Ipanema so desirable and fun.

Being Philippe Stark’s first hospitality project in Brazil, the Fasano is a love story to Brazilian modernism, known for its ingenious combinations of tropical woods, man-made materials, curvilinear shapes, light shafts and spaces that seamlessly flow from in to outdoors.

Sometimes the Fasano feels dark and clubby, yet at others light and breezy.

Irrespective, the results are always pitch perfect and ocean vistas never far away.

The lobby is a symphony of well-considered soft furnishings in leather, carved wood tables and sophisticated upholstery. Cleverly positioned floor-to-ceiling roller blinds reveal walls of windows that look out to garden nooks and more ocean. Philippe Stark’s signature flowing white curtains create theatrical dividers throughout the space.

Upstairs, the 89 rooms and 10 suites continue the tropical-chic look, and play with dark accents, mirrors and natural light to create spaces that are as comfortable as they are easy on the eyes. Be sure to splurge on a deluxe room for unobstructed ocean views.

Onsite Al Mare all day dining restaurant focusses on Italian-inspired seafood. Breakfasts include a kaleidoscope of the freshest and most exotic indigenous tropical fruits available.

The hotel’s moody and sexy bar, Baretto Londra, boasts deep brown leather and cowhide chairs and sofas, and a giant Union Jack flag in homage to London, the owners’ favourite city. Evocative of a British private members’ club, Baretto is a perpetual hot ticket and one of the city’s most exclusive watering holes, particularly over the weekends.

While the gym and spa more than hold their own in the luxury boutique hotel category, it is the rooftop pool that truly impresses and catapults the Rio outpost of Fasano into global best status. The incredible views span the entire oceanfront, all the way down Ipanema past Leblon and to Tijuca mountain range. Sipping a passionfruit caipirinha here at sunset, seated at the poolside rooftop bar, is the epitome of tropical sophistication. Rio is known as the “Cidade Maravilhosa” or “Marvellous City”. Nowhere is it more marvellous than at the Fasano. www.fasano.com.br

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 43

TOKYO, JAPAN TRUNK (HOTEL) Considered by many to be one of Tokyo’s two best neighbourhoods (the other being Shinjuku), Shibuya combines cutting-edge fashion and old-fashioned fun with parks, cultural experiences and tourist attractions.

Shibuya’s Center Gai is one of the best places to see Japanese youth culture and Shibuya’s scramble crossing is one of the most photographed sights in Japan. At the very center of this fashion-focused district and just seconds from the epicentre of Harajuku’s famed street fashion culture, Cat Street, TRUNK offers a resolutely “made in Japan” experience that draws from both the traditional and trendsetting aspects of Tokyo life.

Located on a small lane amidst aromatic herb gardens, expanses of recycled woods, grey stone, greenery and tiered balconies adorn the two four-storey buildings which house the hotel and set the slick, contemporary tone.

Designed by Mount Fuji Architects to appear more like a modern home than a place to rest one’s head, fifteen guest rooms designed by Jamo Associates - of differing size, layout and furnishings - create a contrasting conceptual dialogue. Upcycled materials overtly meet Japanese craftsmanship throughout the property. Monochrome bathroom tiling, organic Japanese toiletries and vintage-style Roland radio speakers sit side-by-side with warm custom-made wooden furniture (by cult Osaka designer Truck), patchwork wall hangings and contemporary Japanese artworks. The sprawling Terrace Suite can sleep up to 14 people.

Quite apart from the guest accommodations, the hotel’s epicentre is its super social restaurant cum bar TRUNK (KITCHEN), which overlooks a terrace and feels more like an elegant home than hotel. The food combines elements of Japanese food culture with many other diverse food cultures to create multinational fare. Think Wagyu hamburgers and Shibuya-made burrata. It you want to make a night of it, book the chef’s table which overlooks the kitchen.

There is also a traditional local kushiyaki grilled food outlet TRUNK (KUSHI), an event space and onsite store. All-in-all, TRUNK is a welcome and creative addition to Tokyo’s hotel scene. https://trunk-hotel.com

44 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

NOSY ANKAO, MADAGASCAR MIAVANA Off the southeast coast of Africa, pretty much everything about isolated Madagascar is special. 5% of all known animal and plant species on the planet are to be found here, on the world’s fourth-largest island, but getting to it all is quite literally a mission, not least since Madagascar’s roads are dreadful.

However, for those who relish an adventure, Madagascar is a one-of-a-kind adventure and an utterly unique wildlife destination, where the incredible diversity of landscapes and abundance of endemic animals, flora and fauna far outweigh the lack of creature comforts.

Since the unveiling of Miavana, situated on the private island of Nosy Ankao off the country’s northeastern shore (Madagascar has 5,000km of coastline), travellers and wannabe explorers have been able to recover from their energetic daytime adventures in super luxe surroundings.

Fringed by white sand beaches and sprawling coral reefs, Miavana quite literally feels like a haven of luxury at the end of the earth and is undoubtedly one of the most exclusive beach resorts in Africa. Set within the Loky Manambato Protected Area, which is essentially a marine park of pristine coral reefs, enables guests to snorkel, dive, fish and even whale-watch literally just off-shore. Two helicopters also ferry guests to nearby islands and Miavana’s staff will even set up a private sleep-out under the stars.

Guests are accommodated in 14 individual solar-powered villas ranging in size from one to three bedrooms. Mid-century-style furniture fills their rooms and flowing soft turquoise curtains line their floor-to-ceiling windows.

All villas face the sea on the western side of the island and provide their occupants with total privacy. Needless to say, all come with shimmering private pools and round-the-clock butler service, making staying at Miavana the ultimate destination for the modern adventurer and quite possibly the most exclusive castaway escape on the continent. https://timeandtideafrica.com/camp/miavana

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 47

SAN FRANCISCO, U.S.A. PROPER HOTEL Every cultured traveller knows that San Francisco is positively brimming with charm. Countless cultural attractions, great shopping, superb restaurants and happening bars - the city has it all. And it has a number of super deluxe hotels to accommodate discerning travellers. But one thing San Fran was lacking, on the hospitality front, was a hip ’n’ funky hotel - somewhere that trend setting travellers and globetrotting hipsters could hang out, be creative and rest their artistic heads.

This all changed in late 2017, when the Golden City finally got the design-led boutique lodgings it so desperately needed, and the Proper opened in a historic flatiron building erected in 1904 by the city’s pioneer of lavish Beaux-Arts architecture, Albert Pissison, located at Market Street between Seventh and Sixth streets. Today, the building sits in the heart of San Francisco’s emerging Mid-Market neighbourhood, where elite tech companies inhabiting abandoned landmarks and Michelin-starred chefs opening upscale eateries are gradually regenerating this funky part of downtown.

Inspired by the historic building’s colourful past, renowned interior designer Kelly Wearstler took a warm approach when kitting out its insides and filled it with a cheerful pastiche of classic and modern styles. Deep colours, rich textures, classic design pieces and vintage furniture positively clash with bold fabrics and mad wallpaper, making walking into the Proper a unique assault on the visual senses and an Instagrammer’s dream. Staff wear check suits with striped shirts and floral ties which project a fun, fresh and fashionable aesthetic which sits well within the hotel’s urban setting, with Union Square’s designer shops, theatres and SFMOMA all just five blocks away.

Upstairs, the Proper’s 131 guest rooms (including 11 suites) are considerately furnished to provide a functional, Scandinavian-esque stay experience, laden with enough cool touches to keep even the most tech savvy happy. TVs come with Google Chromecast and all rooms boast wireless bluetooth-enabled Vifa speakers so guests can stream their own entertainment. Bedside tablets facilitate room service, local recommendations and reservations for meals and complimentary bicycles. Slick bathrooms have walk-in rain showers and Aesop toiletries. Tucked into the awkward spaces at the thinnest edge of the building are a dozen bunk rooms sold at lower rates.

The Proper’s three F&B venues are hung with local artworks by a variety of emerging talent, connecting the venue to the pulse of the neighbourhood.

A flowing social space off the lobby, Villon’s exec chef Jason Franey spent six years at Eleven Madison Park in NYC before heading to the west coast, where his contemporary American menu draws inspiration from San Francisco’s bountiful culinary culture and plentiful seasonal ingredients.

Thankfully hotel residents are given preference at the Proper’s rooftop bar, Charmaine, which routinely has locals queueing down the block.

On street level, La Bande is the perfect place to people watch and observe the bustling city, thanks to its double-height glass sides providing giant vistas down Market Street and McAllister.

Still the coolest hotel in town well over a year after it threw open its playful doors and screamed its arrival, the Proper is so on trend it’s little wonder that it has become a destination unto itself. Be sure to book well before you arrive in town. www.properhotel.com/hotels/san-francisco

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WIN A 4-NIGHT STAY AT TH BRAND NEW 25HOURS HO TERMINUS NORD IN PARIS

Located in Paris’ 10th arrondissement directly opposite Gare du Nord station, providing direct connections with Eurostar, Thalys, TGV and RER trains, playful 25hours brand’s new 237-room Parisian property is a veritable homage to the lively spirit of the exuberant district in which it is located.

A modern city hotel in the heart of the French capital, rooms are relaxing retreats from the city’s hustle and bustle, and feature bold prints and colourful palettes inspired by Africa and Asia, together with personal objects referencing the location’s diverse mix of cultures.

NENI restaurant with its delectable Israeli-Mediterranean cuisine, and Sape Bar with its large counter and inviting leather armchairs, together form the pulsating heart of the property. Meanwhile, the ground-floor reception is reminiscent of a French kiosk and is open 24/7 to guests and locals alike for anything they may need, from hiring one of hotel’s Schindelhauer bicycles to borrowing a Mini for those who simply must have four wheels.

HE OTEL

PRIZE DRAW

The lucky winner plus a friend will stay for four nights in a Large room at 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord, including daily “rich” breakfasts (for two); welcome cocktails at Sape Bar; one Balagan-style dinner for two at NENI restaurant and free wi-fi.

To enter this prize draw email your contact details to win@theculturedtraveller.com. The draw will take place after 31st May 2019 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time between 1st July – 31st December 2019 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates apply - the winner will be informed. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded.

www.25hours-hotels.com Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 51

HOLI

On the second day of the ancient annual Hindu festival of colours, people delight in literally covering each other in water and a rainbow of paint powder to celebrate the triumph of good over evil 21 March 2019

PRAGUE

Nicholas Chrisostomou heads to PRAGUE to see whether its art and gastronomy scenes measure up to its mighty historical and architectural appeal

T

he golden city of one hundred spires is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most beautiful and visually charming destinations. Abundant with architectural landmarks, that are testament to its changing fortunes, numerous gems from the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods remain entirely intact because the city was not rebuilt like most European capitals during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Back then, Praha was only a provincial town in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. And during the world wars, the city largely escaped the terrible bombing that left so many of its European peers ruined. The result is an easily walkable metropolis, which thrills in some way at every turn, especially when ambling around the

new and old towns which are rich in visual delights.

But, in this day and age, a cultured traveller is rarely satisfied with gorgeous buildings and fabulous museums, of which Prague has numerous. With free time increasingly at a premium, when we book a city break to get a change of scenery and a snapshot of a different society, we need more than some local cuisine, a museum or two and some shopping to satisfy our cultural hunger. So I am heading to the Czech capital to see whether its art and foodie scenes have advanced with the times, and deliver contemporary 21st century experiences.

Sharing its land borders with Germany, Austria, Poland and Slovakia, the Czech Republic is located in the very heart of Europe. Hence, Prague is easy to reach via both ‘planes and trains. The central European train network is both efficient and affordable, so grasping the opportunity to avoid an airport, I take the train from Vienna. Just four-hours and EUR 60 later, after a super comfy direct ride in a business class carriage, I arrive in Prague relaxed and raring to go. Munich, Frankfurt and Warsaw are also just a few hours’ train ride away, making Prague an excellent option for a weekend city break, especially if you’re already in Europe. If you fly-in to Vaclav Havel Airport, pre-book your pick-up with www.prague-airport-transfers.

co.uk and you can be whisked into the city centre in the back of a Mercedes E-Class for around EUR 28.

Prague is very much a tale of two cities depending on which side of the river you stay. Bisected by the Vltava River, which runs from north to south and straight through its old town, I visited Prague twice to get a decent feel for the place, staying for three nights on each side of the river. If you have four or five days to spend in Prague, a two-centre visit will give you different yet complementary experiences and is highly recommended.

Prague’s Mandarin Oriental is hands down the ►

city’s best hotel, not least for its service levels and incredible concierge team. When you visit a cultural capital like Prague, a good concierge is invaluable. The Mandarin is located in Prague’s oldest neighbourhood, Malá Strana (or Little Quarter), which hugs the curves of the Vltava, in between the river and the castle district of Hradčany.

By far the Czech capital’s most enchanting district, when exiting the Mandarin you step directly into cobbled streets and are instantly surrounded by stunning architecture. If your budget stretches to Mandarin prices, stay here for a couple of nights and use the hotel as a base to explore Malá Strana. Since this is the busiest part of the city, routinely jam-packed with tourists, you will need somewhere civilised to retreat to after the crowds! Speaking of which, avoid Prague in November and December - there are just too many tourists. January or February are the best months to visit and are the only months when you might be able to stroll across Charles Bridge rather than being carried across with the masses.

Yes, it really does get that bad in peak season.

Apart from going out for dinner somewhere fancy, you can walk pretty much everywhere in Prague, irrespective of which side of the river you rest your head. If staying near the train station, Old Town Square is 10 minutes away and Malá Strana another quarter of an hour. Vice versa from the Mandarin.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

When faced with a city with so many important historical sights spread out over a vast area, I suggest a hop-on-hop-off bus tour to get your bearings, even more so if you will only be in the Czech capital for a day or two. Do this before you start taking photos (or posting on Instagram!) because it’s good to actually “see” the place before exploring up-close-and-personal on foot. Weather permitting, the view from the top deck of a bus can be pretty damn good and inexpensive!

A 24-hour hop-on-hop-off ticket is just EUR 22 and the red route passes everything you need to see to getorientated. (city-sightseeing.com/en/102/prague) After you’ve found your feet, focus on getting the major tourist sights out of the way because they’re always the busiest and most stressful. ► 58 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

MALÁ STRANA

MALÁ STRANA

MALÁ STRANA

CHARLES BRIDGE

It will be plain sailing once you’ve seen Charles Bridge and Prague Castle and you’ll be able to enjoy the city more.

The famed gothic stone bridge that connects Malá Strana with the Old Town is at the top of every visitor’s must-see list, so try and visit Charles Bridge early morning to avoid the crowds. It’s a pain, but if you want to see the bridge in relative peace and quiet, early is best. The bridge’s construction was commissioned by Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, begun in 1357 and completed in 1402. Lined with statues of Catholic saints, its architect was German-Bohemian Petr 60 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

Parléř, whose other triumphs include beautiful St. Vitus Cathedral within the castle complex. It is said that egg yolks were mixed into the mortar to strengthen the bridge. Judging by the bridge’s longevity and sturdiness the eggs seem to have worked! By the way, the many vendors on the bridge largely sell tourist tat and are best avoided.

If you head to Charles Bridge from the Old Town, cross and then make your way up the hill towards the castle complex which is a 15-20-minute walk.

The final ascent to the castle consists of 121 steps, but opportunities to pause en route include bijou shops serving small cups of delicious hot chocolate.

VOJAN GARDENS (VOJANOVY SADY)

At the top of the steps (and after the climb) you’ll appreciate the spectacular view, and on a clear day you’ll be able to take some great shots before entering the castle complex.

From this viewpoint, as well as Prague spread out beneath you, in the distance you will notice Žižkov’s soaring communist TV tower, which at 216 metres is the city’s tallest architectural landmark. Today used as a meteorological observatory and tourist attraction (there’s a restaurant and cafeteria inside), it also contains a “one room hotel” where guests paying EUR 500 can spend the night 70 metres up. (www.towerpark.cz/en/hotel-one-room)

CASTLE STEPS

If it’s lunchtime or your tummy’s rumbling, drop anchor at Kuchyň for some traditional, hearty Czech food, served in a kitchen-style setting. Located within the 1811 Salm Palace (part of the National Gallery) on Hradcanske Square, Kuchyň is relaxed, familyfriendly and boasts a lovely outside terrace during the summer months. (https://kuchyn.ambi.cz) Dating back to the 9th century, Prague’s is the largest castle complex in the world, comprising 4 palaces, 4 churches, 5 halls, 4 towers and countless gardens. Within the complex, 17th century baroque Wallenstein Palace houses the senate and Doctor Lumbe’s Villa is the official home of the president. ►

Despite occupying an area of 70,000 square metres, you don’t need more than a few hours to see the best of the castle. A “Circuit B” ticket will give you access to St. Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane, plus 15th century Daliborka Tower, at the eastern end of the lane, which is shrouded in legend. This is pretty much everything you need to see.

After leaving Prague Castle, take a leisurely walk down the hill and pop into some of the city’s many boutiques which specialise in handcrafted Bohemian crystal glassware. One of the best is ARTĚL which has a store close to Charles Bridge. Established for two decades and

curated by American designer Karen Feldman, ARTĚL is the antithesis to the plethora of tacky gift shops her beautiful store is surrounded by. (www.artelglass.com) Once back in Malá Strana, make for Vojan Gardens (Vojanovy sady), which were founded in the Middle Ages as a monastery garden and is one of Prague’s oldest parks. Whilst its entrance is not easy to find (look for a tall archway in an old wall), once inside, preening peacocks entertain. In the spring, the gardens come alive with cherry blossom and flowering pear trees. (U Lužického Seminaře). Close to the gardens, make a pit stop at intimate Maly Vinograf wine bar for a glass of rather palatable Czech vino. You will deserve it after

so much walking! (8 Míšeňská +420 604 705 730).

Also in Malá Strana, and visible from Charles Bridge thanks to its massive green dome, be sure to peek inside The Church of Saint Nicholas, which took almost a century to complete by three generations of the Dientzenhofer family. One of the most impressive examples of Baroque architecture in Prague, its intense interior features frescos by Austrian-Czech painter János Lukács Kracker and a 4,000-pipe organ played by Mozart in the 18th century.

At 80 metres tall, the distinctive fairytale-like twin black towers of 14th century Church of Our Lady before Týn

can be seen across Prague, and mark the location of Old Town Square, which is about 15 minutes on foot from Charles Bridge, in the centre of town. One of Prague’s most visited sites, it really is a must-see, even if only to walk through and enjoy the multicoloured buildings of every conceivable architectural style which line the square’s perimeter. Particularly beautiful is 15th century Renaissance pearl Maison à la Minute (The House at the Minute) where the famous writer Franz Kafka lived from 1889 to 1896. Covered in ornate sgraffito decorations depicting Greek mythology, the house is utterly unique in Old Town Square. Also unique is Prague’s famous medieval astronomical clock dating back to the early 1400s (Prague Orloj). ►

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ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK

Mounted on the southern wall of Old Town Hall, the hourly show, of the apostles spinning around the clock chased by a statue of death, is entertaining, especially late at night when fewer people are around.

If walking back to your hotel towards the main station, to the east of Old Town Square, make a point of passing the majestic 65-metre gothic Powder Tower (Prašná brána) which was built in the 15th century as one of city’s 13 gates. Modelled after the Old Town Bridge Tower and studded with sculptures, its name comes from its original use as a gunpowder store. From 1458 it was also the starting point of the processional path that Bohemian queens and kings walked towards their 64 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

coronations at Prague Castle. As I trod the paths that kings and queens once walked, I noticed that modern European trends and customs appear to have been embraced by the Czechs, and their capital is much more than an open-air museum. From the little things, like quality coffee and wine served in the correct glassware, to an abundance of high-end designer stores and contemporary art galleries, not to mention a general sensitivity to the needs of the discerning traveller, the Czech tourist industry appears acutely switched-on to the needs of 21st century globetrotters.

For me to find a decent bar in a city that I want to re-visit is a feat, let alone a restaurant. ►

CHURCH OF OUR LADY BEFORE TÝN

HOLEŠOVICE

Yet within just a few days in Prague, I visited at least two restaurants which I would gladly fly back to dine at again. Indeed, Prague’s culinary scene boasts numerous restaurants which would satisfy even the most discerning of gourmands.

Few areas of Prague illustrate the city’s burgeoning creativity more than Holešovice, also known as Art District 7. Akin to a bijou Berlin, the district is a lively, cultural and creative neighbourhood, awash with interesting architecture and positively brimming with imaginative energy. The area is especially well known for its lean towards modern and contemporary art.

Just a few metro stations from the centre of Prague 66 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

(take the red metro line C to Nádraží Holešovice) and you can walk through an interwoven network of galleries, theatres, cafés, bookshops, restaurants, music clubs, boutiques, creative studios, independent cinemas and hybrid cultural spaces. Not to mention a number of uber-cool museums, the most important of which, DOX, is unmissable for any true culture vulture. Even just wandering around in Holešovice is a treat, especially in Letná Park, since this part of Prague is filled by an appealing mix of architectural styles spanning everything from 19th century tenement housing to modernist creations and grand period buildings. Holešovice is very much Prague’s creative future to complement its established historical ►

DOX

HOLEÅ OVICE

DANCING HOUSE

past, and a clear and positive indicator of the direction in which its artistic community is moving.

To end a day in Prague in arty and gastronomic style, head to the seventh floor of Prague’s most famous concession to contemporary architecture, the Dancing House. The brainchild of Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunić and often controversial Canadian architect Frank Gehry and unveiled in 1992, its curvaceous structure resembles a pair of dancers and is formed by two central towers: Ginger is made of glass and steel, while Fred has a concrete body and a metal head. Ginger & Fred Restaurant - at the top of this rare example of contemporary 68 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

architecture in a city which otherwise abounds with classical buildings - bestows upon its guests’ impressive views of the Vltava as well as rather fine cuisine. (https://gfrest.cz/en) For many visitors to Prague, taking a selfie in front of the Dancing House has become as important as walking across Charles Bridge.

So, there you have it, old and new Prague coming together in art, architecture and gastronomy.

One of the most historical cities in the world is visibly embracing the future, and, in doing so, offering something for every type of traveller.

PRAGUE STAY

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PRAGUE HOTEL INTERNATIONAL, PRAGUE HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN PRAGUE MGALLERY BY SOFITEL

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PRAGUE

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PRAGUE Nestled between the Vltava and the castle district of Hradčany, hugging the curves of the river, Malá Strana is Prague’s oldest neighbourhood and without a doubt the city’s most alluring. Characterised by cobbled streets, elegant palaces, terraced gardens and countless hidden gems make this the Czech capital’s most enchanting district.

Housed within a former Dominican monastery which dates back to the 14th century, Prague’s Mandarin Oriental is located at the very heart of Malá Strana, almost hidden in plain sight behind tall and thick stone walls. Charles Bridge is five-minutes away, the castle complex another 15 and Kampa Park is just around the corner. You really can’t stay in a better location.

Once through the Mandarin’s main gates, at the northeast corner of the hotel’s grounds (at Harantova and Nebovidska streets), guests enter a unique hospitality world unsurpassed by any other five-star property in Prague. Offering a peaceful retreat from the tourist crowds which populate one of Prague’s busiest districts, the Mandarin is unquestionably the city’s best hospitality address, with deluxe facilities and first-class service to match, as you’d expect from one of the world’s premiere hotel brands.

Made-up of an eclectic mix of original Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance styles across several historic buildings, complemented by contemporary yet unpretentious east-meetswest décor, the hotel is both a visual feast and an architectural delight. Lovingly preserved religious features and authentic medieval artefacts comfortably sit side-by-side with Czech crystal chandeliers, Asian furnishings and gorgeous fabrics.

The Mandarin’s 99 rooms and suites skilfully blend the character of the monastery and the hotel’s other high-ceilinged historic buildings with a tasteful cream and beige colour palette, with added splashes of Asian reds and blues.

All rooms feature wooden parquet floors, ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 73

premium bedding and oversized marble-lined bathrooms with heated floors and walk-in showers.

Whilst larger rooms boast more original features, more space and more seating, every room at the Mandarin is different and elegant in its own way.

And with less than 100 keys, an air of exclusivity is palpable throughout the hotel. Kylie, Madonna and the Dalai Lama are just some of the famous names who have stayed here. Since the hotel regularly runs at 100%, even during the slightly quieter months just after Christmas, it’s important to reserve well in advance.

The only thing missing from the hotel’s facilities is possibly a pool - it literally has everything else, including an excellent bar, well-equipped stateof-the-art gym, a superb pan-Asian restaurant (Spices) and an incredible multi award-winning spa set within the ruins of a 14th century convent which are preserved under a glass floor. Be sure to make time for a massage when staying at the Mandarin - the treatments are truly first class.

Breakfast at the Mandarin is fit for a royal and you will find literally everything on the sprawling buffet, which is complemented by an à la carte menu for Eggs Benedict, pancakes and more. Coffees are made to order and delivered to your breakfast table, along with a glass of bubbles or a Bloody Mary if you’re recovering from a big night.

It would be remiss not to mention the Mandarin’s concierge team which must surely be the best in the Czech Republic. All members of Les Clefs D’Ors, the team is able to arrange anything from ballet seats to train tickets and restaurants reservations at the drop of the hat.

Boasting the best staff in the city and characterful rooms in a chic, boutique hotel-like environment, make staying at the Mandarin Oriental Prague a sophisticated and elegant experience you’re unlikely to forget. www.mandarinoriental.com 74 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN PRAGUE MGALLERY BY SOFITEL Hyatt’s chic and youthful contemporary hotel brand, Andaz, is known globally in travelling circles for executing visually unique and captivating design themes, inspired by its host cities, and ensuring that the guest experience is informal, social and funky whilst delivering high levels of service and luxury.

Located a short taxi ride from Ginza, Andaz Tokyo occupies the top floors of sleek Nihon Sekkei-designed Toranomon Hills, a modern complex of offices, shops and residential apartments located in the Toranomon district of Minato ward. The National Art Center, Tokyo Tower, Mori Art Museum and the beautiful t are all close by. Andaz Tokyo is very much Toranomon Hills’s crowning jewel, occupying the highest part of the complex and thus commanding arresting city vistas.

Hip, designer and luxurious hotels abound on our planet. However, it is rare that a property executes well all three qualities at once. In the 21st century hotel world, Andaz does this with little competition. Arriving at any Andaz hotel is like stepping into a fantastical vision of the city you’re visiting, conceived as an act of creative brilliance and delivered with tremendous attention to detail. Andaz Tokyo is no exception, delivering an utterly unique Japanese hospitality experience in inimitable fashion.

On arrival, guests are whisked from street level directly to the 51st floor. Here a celestial hospitality temple on a grand scale - Andaz Lounge - enriched by dramatic installations and countless design details, is framed by some of the city’s best panoramas. Floor-to-soaring-ceiling walnut walls, broken up by mirrors, intricate lattice work and sliding panels, are the backbones of what is a stunning set of main floor public spaces, tinted with generous accents of basalt and bronze dotted throughout.

Andaz typically dispenses with the conventions of a traditional hotel lobby/reception, instead furnishing its stylishly attired welcome hosts with hi-tech mini tablets, so that check-in can happen anyplace convenient, from the arrival lounge to guest rooms.

In Japan, tradition and modernity work in tandem to produce a unique aesthetic based on simplicity, geometric lines, natural materials and attention to detail, all the while maintaining overall flow and harmony. The guest rooms at Andaz Tokyo are a perfect interpretation of this quintessential Japanese design aesthetic. Coming out of the elevators, one is greeted by hallways of floor-to-ceiling Japanese shoji-style white wall panels, lit from below to create the sense of a catwalk-style runway. This minimalist but entrancing look is pumped up a little inside the hotel’s 164 rooms including 8 suites.

Deep, dark and graexpanses of walnut wood and smooth white walls, offset by carpets of matcha green tea, red leather chairs and headboards and shaggy rugs adding dashes of colour and fun. Whilst ‘vintage Bond’ aptly sums up the décor of Andaz Tokyo’s guest rooms, hands down their en suite bathrooms are the pièce de résistance.

Resembling bijou personal spas, these warm wooden enclaves pay homage to Japan’s love of bathing by way of deep circular baths, accompanied by products that change seasonally to showcase different combinations of herbs and florals https://internationalprague.cz Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 77

HOTEL INTERNATIONAL, PRAGUE Located in the Dejvice district of Prague, Hotel International stands tall amongst the three to four-storey buildings in its predominantly residential neighbourhood. A short hop of less than 10-minutes to Prague Castle and only 20 minutes to Václav Havel airport make this landmark property a convenient choice for business travellers and tourists alike.

Built in a socialist realism style in the early 1950s, during the communist era in what was then Czechoslovakia, the building’s dramatic architecture mirrors the grandiose, Stalinist Seven Sisters in Moscow, which combines Russian Baroque and Gothic styles. The 1.5 metre red star that originally topped the 88-metre-tall central tower has been repainted in a shiny gold colour and today serves as a reference point from many different viewpoints of Prague.

The top floors of the massive building’s central tower originally housed the country’s Ministry of Defence, with visiting military dignitaries being hosted in the remaining floors.

Meanwhile, the two huge wings were reserved for the entourages of visiting generals.

After being decommissioned by the army in 1957, the hotel was for many years the largest and most luxurious property in Czechoslovakia, and played host to a number of local celebrities and international stars. The most noteworthy guest must surely be Louis Armstrong, who, during his visit to Czechoslovakia in the 1970s, performed in the now aptly named Armstrong Bar. Since 2015, Hotel International has been part of Mozart Hotel Group and today boasts 278 guest rooms, 14 meeting rooms and a conference hall big enough to accommodate 1,200 delegates.

Entering the building through the hotel’s main doors, all eyes are drawn towards an impressive staircase clad in red carpet, which leads up to a breakfast restaurant and the spa and fitness area.

Throughout the building, original chandeliers and historic artworks are visible everywhere, many of which were fashioned by leading Czech and Slovak artists and craftsmen of the time, not least a tapestry made by celebrated Czech painter Cyril Bouda which depicts the now torn down statue of Stalin at Letná. The large socialist-style murals by the entrance to the hotel’s main breakfast room are also worth looking out for The two top floors of the central tower feature an event space and offer spectacular 360 views across Prague via floor to ceiling windows and from a wrap-around balcony on the 15th floor.

All rooms at Hotel International are a minimum of 22 square metres, offer individually controlled air-conditioning and the usual mod-cons.

Staying at Hotel International is akin to lodging at a Czech landmark, being immersed in the nation’s history and walking through a veritable museum after a day of sightseeing, en route to your room. https://internationalprague.cz 78 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

PRAGUE SEE

PRAGUE CASTLE OLD TOWN SQUARE CZECH CUBSIM AT THE HOUSE OF THE BLACK MADONNA MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS IN PRAGUE DOX MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART MALÁ STRANA

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 81

PRAGUE CASTLE Resembling something from a fairy tale and home to a bewildering array of cultural sites and historic buildings, the largest castle complex in the world is also the most impressive, and is positioned above Prague commanding spectacular views across the city from its perch. An important symbol of the Czech state for more than a thousand years and a UNESCO World Heritage site, Prague Castle was founded

by Prince Bořivoj in approximately 880 and became the seat of Czech rulers and later presidents. Extending down to Malá Strana, where several chateaux and palaces are found, and made up of historical palaces, offices, churches, fortification buildings and gardens, the total castle complex covers a sprawling 45 hectare site. Wallenstein Palace alone, which is home to the Czech Senate, includes 26 houses and six gardens.

Yet, despite its vast size, half a day is plenty to get a good look at the best bits! www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors

OLD TOWN SQUARE The oldest and most significant square in the historical centre of Prague, no visit to the Czech capital is complete without wondering through the vast plaza, which should be done both during the day and at night to fully appreciate the beauty of its buildings. With something in Old Town Square for everyone, art lovers, historians and foodies alike, the plaza’s history also depicts Prague’s gruesome and glorious past. In addition to the Old Town Hall and the Church of Our Lady before Týn, the square is dominated by the Baroque Church of St Nicholas, rococo Kinský Palace, the Gothic House at the Stone Bell and the Jan Hus memorial near the northeastern corner. In the pavement of the square, memorial stones mark the 1621 execution of 27 Czech lords and the Prague Meridian 14°25’17“E, the latter being used to tell the time between 1652 and 1918. The permanent hot dog sellers on the fridges of the square actually peddle a rather tasty and hearty late-night snack!

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PRAGUE CASTLE

OLD TOWN SQUARE

THE HOUSE OF THE BLACK MADONNA

CZECH CUBSIM AT THE HOUSE OF THE BLACK MADONNA Originally built as a department store in the early 1900s, this masterpiece of Czech cubist architecture is an architectural landmark in Prague and was designed by famed Czech architect Josef Gočár. Located in the Old Town between Celetná Street and Ovocný trh. The building’s unusual name comes from the 17th century sculpture which formerly adorned an earlier Baroque building, and was installed on the north-east corner of the reconstructed edifice in the late 90s.

The venue is now home to a very good permanent exhibition about Czech Cubism on the second and third floors, curated by the Museum of Decorative Arts, plus a stunning café, Grand Café Orient, which reopened in 2002 and boasts the only cubist interior in the world. www.czkubismus.cz/en MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS IN PRAGUE Founded in 1885 and housed within a beautiful neo-renaissance building erected in 1897–1901, the museum’s rich collections include decorative and applied arts and design work ranging from late antiquity to the present day, with a focus on European objects, especially arts and crafts created in the Bohemian lands. The impressive permanent exhibitions offers visitors an excursion into the history and development of decorative arts: glass and ceramics, graphic art and design, objects made in metal, wood and other materials, jewellery, clocks and watches, textiles, fashion, toys and furniture. An integral part of the Museum is the largest Czech library specialising in the arts and related fields. Recently renovated, a new third floor exhibition space has been added, the museum’s relaxation garden is now open to the public, the shop has been revamped and a funky new restaurant added. Don’t miss the glass exhibition which is one of the most extensive in Europe and reason enough to visit. www.upm.cz MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS IN PRAGUE

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DOX MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART An uber-cool multifunctional space for presenting international and Czech art, architecture and design, the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art is housed within a renovated complex of 19th century industrial buildings in Prague’s arty Holešovice district, and in 2010 was included on the Phaidon Atlas of World Architecture as one of the most interesting buildings of the decade.

Inspired by the shapes of the giant airships that began to cruise the skies at the dawn of the 20th century, in December 2016 the museum added a colossal 42-metre steeland-wood airship-like structure named Gulliver, effectively suspended in mid-air.

Gulliver straddles two of DOX’s buildings and is used for public talks and lectures at the museum. Widely accepted to be a dynamic cultural platform in Prague, and an arena for confronting artistic approaches and trends, in addition to exhibition spaces, DOX boasts a charming café, good bookstore and a well-stocked design store. www.dox.cz/enw MALÁ STRANA It’s unconceivable to visit Prague and not walk through the city’s “Lesser Town” of Malá Strana. Clustered around the foothills of the castle complex, it is an intensely picturesque area of ancient houses and quaint side streets which hugs the meanders of the Vltava River. It is unquestionably one of the most enchanting districts of the Czech capital and positively alive with cobblestone squares, ancient churches, hidden gems and enchanting sights. Spend some time without a map just ambling around Malá Strana, going nowhere in particular. In the shadow of Prague Castle it’s pretty much impossible to get lost, and exploring the area without a fixed destination makes for a hugely enjoyable and relaxing afternoon.

Away from the well tread tourist trails, try to pit stop in a Czech restaurant to refuel on typical local fare such as goulash and duck. Nebozizek restaurant sits on the side of Petrin Hill and boasts a killer view of the castle and panoramic vistas of the city. www.nebozizek.cz/cz/restaurant 86 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

DOX

MALÁ STRANA

INK Hotel Amsterdam - MGallery by Sofitel Amsterdam – The Netherlands | Tel. +31 (0)20 627 59 00 inkhotelamsterdam@accor.com | ink-hotel-amsterdam.com

PRAGUE TASTE

FIELD SPICES RESTAURANT & BAR DIVINIS KUCHYŇ NEXT DOOR BY IMPERIAL CAFÉ MYŠÁK HILLBILLY

SPICES RESTAURANT AND BAR (MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PRAGUE)

FIELD Landing its first Michelin star in 2016 just one year after opening, Field is one of Prague’s finest restaurants, skilfully marrying fine dining with a relaxed environment and warm unpretentious service, the latter being something of a rarity in a fine-dining establishment and truly one of the restaurant’s star qualities. Even the sommelier is warm and affable.

Located in an airy venue with high ceilings on a quaint street in the Jewish Quarter, Field’s dining room is clean, refined and perfect for a gastronomic dégustation experience.

Field is all about TV chef Radek Kašpárek’s modern approach to Czech cuisine. Fanatical about the quality of the ingredients he uses and their provenance, Kašpárek is drawn to produce that hails from his native Czech Republic, and uses it to create simple dishes, with a Scandinavian touch, that are not only delicious but also thought provoking. The result is tasty and well-presented fare, which, whilst detailed, is not so over-the-top as to be deemed pretentious. And herein lies Kašpárek’s skill - fine-dining that is beautiful to look at, a delight to eat and doesn’t leave you hungry. The Cultured Traveller wishes that more Michelinstarred restaurants were like Field. www.fieldrestaurant.cz

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SPICES RESTAURANT & BAR Set within Prague’s best hotel in the heart of Malá Strana, Renaissancestyle vaulted ceilings, softly backlit dark wood panelling and subtle decorative Chinoiserie items set the upscale tone in highly recommended Spices Restaurant & Bar at the Mandarin Oriental.

Offering a carefully crafted culinary journey through Asia, executive chef Stephen Senewiratne’s extensive pan-Asian menu is divided into three regions - Northeast, Southeast and Southwest - and is complemented by a separate sushi menu.

Only the freshest produce, much of it sourced from local Czech farmers, is used to produce the tasty and beautifully-presented food, which is served family-style in the middle of the table.

For a special occasion, book the beautiful, atmospheric 14th century Dom Pérignon P2 Cellar underneath the restaurant, and dine in privacy and style.

After dinner, adjourn to adjacent Spices’ bar, which serves a mix of hand-crafted classic and contemporary cocktails, alongside a good selection of fine wines, local beers and non-alcoholic drinks. It’s the perfect place for a nightcap. www.mandarinoriental.com

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DIVINIS Tucked away on a side street, the star of the show at this intimate restaurant serving superb rustic Northern Italian cuisine and seasonal dishes cooked with air, is the top-light wine selection from Italian growers and other global vineyards.

Run with immense passion and boasting a distinctly warm and friendly feel, Divinis is perfect for an intimate meal for two, a family occasion or a simple gathering with friends to enjoy the excellent food and fantastic vinos.

The menu focused on the use of high-quality ingredients and seasonal produce, much of which is freshly imported ingredients from the Mediterranean. The food at Divinis is utterly delicious and obviously made with love. Glasses of premium Barolo are served from magnums.

The deserts are irresistible.

A six-course tasting menu showcases the very best seasonal ingredients paired with Italian fine wines.

If it’s on the menu, be sure to order the black true risotto - your taste buds will be transported to gastronomic heaven with the first fork-full. www.divinis.cz

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KUCHYŇ Set within the stone walls and vaulted ceilings of Salmovský Palace on Hradcanske Square, directly opposite the main entrance to Prague Castle, Kuchyň looks out to one of the views that bring millions of visitors to the Czech capital every year.

Inside, the menu-less 70-seat restaurant is based around a relaxed, open kitchen concept, with diners encouraged to engage their senses and choose what they eat by trusting their guts. Head chef Marek Janouch and his team prepare traditional Czech dishes inspired by aristocratic cuisine. Guests lift the lids of the pots on the stove to see what hearty foods are cooking.

Since everything cooking is scrumptious it’s not that easy to decide what to eat.

When The Cultured Traveller visited Kuchyň, rabbit in mustard sauce, paprika chicken, pork schnitzel, beef in red wine, goulash and a Serbian pork cutlet with seasonal vegetables were on the stove. Sides included two kinds of dumplings, potato cakes and roasted potatoes. Our only complaint was the lack of veggie sides, but Czech cuisine is not renowned for a prevalence of veggies! Visit Kuchyň hungry because you will want to eat everything! https://kuchyn.ambi.cz/en Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 97

NEXT DOOR BY IMPERIAL Opened less than a year ago, celebrity chef Zdeňek Pohlreich’s upscale yet unpretentious restaurant has already become a firm favourite with discerning Czechs. Located on the ground floor of The Cosmopolitan Hotel about 10 minutes-walk from Old Town Square, Next Door offers a first-class dining experience in a comfortable atmosphere, complete with attentive and personal service.

The juxtaposition of classic Parisian bistro-style food and modern Czech regional cuisine is executed well and beautifully presented in a pair of interconnected dining rooms presided over by a huge open-fronted kitchen.

The slightly flamboyant interior design aesthetic, of intricate crown mouldings, baby angel sculptures and chandeliers hanging from high ceilings painted with original ceiling frescos dating back to 1889, courtesy of renowned Italian designer Luciano Belcapo, only add to the dining experience.

Don’t miss the sautéed rabbit kidneys in a mustard sauce with Savoy cabbage.

And the roasted foie gras with green peas, mushrooms and duck black pudding. Both dishes are exceptional.

Open all day every day from 06.30 - 23.00, book a table by the kitchen for a front row eating experience. www.next-door.cz/en

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HILLBILLY This hip, laid-back burger joint, located in the heart of trendy Holešovice in the middle of a predominantly residential area, has won multiple awards for its burgers. The menu runs the gamut from a classic Hillbilly burger and Chill-billy burger to a Joe‘s goat burger, Roquefort Johny burger and a moreish “Marvin’s pulled pork sandwich”. All are furnished with a spicier kick than is usual in the Czech Republic. The cheddar is real, the nachos are piled high and the coleslaw recipe is bang on point, all of which may seem natural to visitors, but is surprisingly unusual in Prague!

The something-for-everyone menu includes a very good veggie burger and decent beverages beyond the normal beer and wine typical of casual pubs – think craft cider, homemade lemonade and Aperol Spritz. In the summer, the bijou patio out back offers a casual al fresco dining option. https://hillbilly.cz

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CAFÉ MYŠÁK Very close to Wenceslas Square, in 1911 Frantisek Myšák opened his pastry shop in Vodičkova Street. He hired the best architects to design the shop, emphasised the use of only high-quality ingredients is everything he made and took great care of his employees.

Creating cakes for well-known personalities from the world of politics, culture and sports, Myšák even made a cake for the first Czech president, Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk, on the occasion of his 80th birthday. When the RondoCubist building that housed Myšák’s original shop collapsed in 2006, the structure was rebuilt, the café and shop were completely reconstructed, and Café Myšák reopened its famous doors.

Today, the original marble staircase and large-scale period photos of the original shop provide an enchanting backdrop for afternoon tea, a cheeky piece of cake or a cappuccino. The coffee here is first rate. The Caramel Cup also makes a rather tasty afternoon treat! www.mysak.ambi.cz/en

PRAGUE SIP

GIN & TONIC CLUB MALÝ VINOGRAF BLACK ANGELS DANDY HEMINGWAY BAR LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

GIN & TONIC CLUB GIN & TONIC CLUB The Cultured Traveller’s favourite bar in Prague, this sprawling, hyper-focused basement venue is dedicated to serving inventive variations of the trusty G&T. With literally hundreds upon hundreds of different gins on offer, hailing from all corners of the globe, the proprietors of this colourful and vibrant lounge, bar and terrace have invested a great deal of time and energy on the details, which combine to make this venue standout. There’s no queuing for your G&T here, good god no! Guests are seated at reserved, high-top tables for their drinks to be served to them in a civilised fashion.

Numerous concoctions include home-grown herbs and spices, unexpected fruit infusions and interesting flavour combinations. The massive array of gins is complemented by a range of tonics which can drastically change the character of a drink. A five G&T tasting menu is available and tapas and larger dishes are available for those who are peckish. One drink here can easily turn into three, so visit the Gin & Tonic Club after dinner and get comfy. www.gintonicclub.com MALÝ VINOGRAF Whilst Prague isn’t the usual first stop on a wine aficionado’s go-to list, Vinograf might persuade you otherwise. A group of three wine bars in the Czech capital, each is stocked with upwards of 300 wines. The flagship bar in Senovážné Square offers more than 700 vintages. Of Vinograf’s three locations in Prague, The Cultured Traveller recommends the cosy Malá Strana shop on Míše�ská Street, five minutes-walk from the Mandarin Oriental and round the corner from Charles Bridge. An intimate, locallyfocused wine shop with sommelier-led tastings and food pairings, it’s the perfect place to pit-stop and have a few glasses of vino with some cheese and charcuterie to break-up a day of sightseeing. Whatever you drink, Malý Vinograf’s knowledgeable staff will furnish you with all kinds of information about the wine you have selected and what to drink next! 8 Míšeňská 8, Praha 1. +420 604 705 730 www.vinograf.cz 104 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

MALÝ VINOGRAF

GIN & TONIC CLUB

MALÝ VINOGRAF

BLACK ANGELS

DANDY

BLACK ANGELS BLACK ANGELS Located slap bang in the middle of the city, two floors underneath the U Prince Hotel in Old Town Square, Black Angels is a hidden gem of a bar serving an excellent range of themed cocktails with panache. Reminiscent of an prohibition era speakeasy, the grand stone-vaulted gothic-meets-glamour space, complete with the statue of a black angel perched atop the bar, is atmospheric, warm and inviting. The bartenders have oft been awarded for their classic yet creative drinks.

Many of the bar’s best cocktails hail from the American golden age, and include classics like the Manhattan, the Mary Pickford, the Sgropinno, the Sazerac and the Sidecar.

If wine is your poison, you can choose from a wide range of high-quality French, Italian, Spanish, Chilean and Argentinean vintages. Service is slick and the whole place exudes an air of hidden yet louche sophistication. www.blackangelsbar.com DANDY With a name that literally translates to the word “vineyards” in English, Vinohrady is a sleek, hip and international district of the Czech capital, and was once a wine hot spot before it became incorporated into the metropolis of Prague. A charming, European neighbourhood with a distinctly artsy international side makes Vinohrady the ideal location for Dandy, a fun, hip and stylish gay bar open to everyone. Very good hand-crafted cocktails, premium spirits, signature drinks, Japanese whisky, a superb selection of wines by-the-glass and Bernard beer are served by a friendly and fun team in a stylish, comfortable, laid-back lounge-style setting. A small selection of open-faced sandwiches is also available.

The music at Dandy is very good and the tempo audibly picks up after midnight.

Visit Dandy after dinner and plan to stay for more than one. http://dandyprague.com DANDY

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HEMINGWAY BAR HEMINGWAY BAR Almost certainly the most popular bar in Prague, it’s very difficult to get into Hemingway’s after 9pm which is when the bar stops taking reservations. An intimate venue, you won’t be able to kick-back and relax here, rather sip on a beautifully handcrafted cocktail (or two) and then move on to somewhere else. Hemingway’s is all about the spirits and mixing them. It’s not a loud venue. Laptops are not allowed. Chairs cannot be moved. Ordering of drinks for other guests is prohibited unless approved by the staff. And so on. Whilst such rules might be a little annoying to some, they do allow for the serious, unadulterated business of drink consumption and appreciation.

Naturally, Hemingway’s pays homage to the great man with particular attention to absinthe, champagne and, of course, rum, the latter boasting its own list of more than 200 varieties. Visit Hemingway’s for the cocktails, which are very good indeed. Bring your own party. www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-praha LUCERNA MUSIC BAR One of the largest and most popular music clubs in Prague, and a veritable institution to many Czech people, Lucerna can be a big night out or just a few drinks, depending on your mood and the act. Located right next to Wenceslas Square in a multipurpose complex dating back to the beginning of 20th century, stars such as Earth, Wind & Fire, Maceo Parker, Candy Dulfer, Jungle Funk and the Brand New Heavies, amongst others, have all performed at Lucerna, which is also famous for its 80s and 90s dance parties every Friday and Saturday nights. Jazz and swing artists perform at Lucerna during the annual Prague International Jazz Festival and annual AghaRTA Prague Jazz Festival. Lucerna has also provided a springboard to many up-and-coming and newly-formed bands, not only from the Czech Republic but also from around the world. www.musicbar.cz/en 108 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

HEMINGWAY BAR

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

PRAGUE SPEND

DENISA NOVÁ KUBISTA MALÍSKÁ HARDDECORE CIHELNA CONCEPT STORE GLASSIMO

KUBISTA

DENISA NOVÁ DENISA NOVÁ Named Clothing Designer of the Year

by CDG6 (Ceny Czech Grand Design), Denisa Nová has been in the business for two decades this year and focuses on womenswear, including ladies’ fashion accessories and footwear, all of which is marketed under the brand name of DNB at her exclusive boutiques in Prague and Brno (the second largest city in the Czech Republic). Known throughout Czech fashion circles for the simplicity and minimalism of her collections, Nová regularly shows at Mercedes-Benz Prague Fashion Week in March, when the Czech capital comes alive with creativity and colour. Nová’s clothes are detailed, wearable and coveted.

Shop for Denisa Nová at her Prague store which is open every day apart from Sunday. www.denisanova.cz/en

KUBISTA Located in the center of Prague a stone’s throw from Old Town Square, you will find Kubista on the ground floor of the House at the Black Madonna which is dedicated to the Art Deco and Cubists periods. The store specialises in glassware, jewellery, ceramics, décor pieces, pictures, paintings and furniture, and showcases a wide selection of pieces by many well-known Czech artists, including Bohumil Kubišta, Vaclav Spala and Czech-Czechoslovak sculptor Otto Gutfreund, who, after studying art in Prague and Paris, became known in the early 1900s for his sculptures in a distinctly cubist style.

As well as reproductions, Kubista stocks a number of original pieces for the serious collector. Beautifully illustrated books about the Art Deco movement and Czech Cubism are also on sale and make wonderful gifts for interior design buffs! www.kubista.cz 112 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

KUBISTA

DENISA NOVÁ

DENISA NOVÁ

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KUBISTA

MALÍSKÁ

HARD-DE-CORE

MALÍSKÁ MALÍSKÁ Czech-born designer Lenka Sárová Malíská’s rustic porcelain tableware with a modern design edge is a perfect symbolic melding of all that’s whimsical and folk-inspired about the Czech Republic, yet, at the same time, also smartly metropolitan and influenced by the city of Prague. Porcelain teapots and mugs are top sellers, but salt and pepper shakers, plates, bowls, cups and saucers, all adorned with a myriad of motifs from kittens and dogs to trees and cottages, also make wondeful gifts which are pretty yet functional. Malíská also produces a line of china brooches, sporting different patterns and colourways, making each piece unique. available at a variety of design-led stores throughout Prague, including these three www.pourpour.cz www.futurista.cz www.parazit.cz

HARD-DE-CORE The past few years have seen an emergence of Czech fashion designers producing highly-original garments that are both playful and interesting. One such designer is Josefina Bakošová, who is also an illustrator and designs film and theatre costumes.

Her co-founded boutique, workshop and gallery, Harddecore, which is centrally located on Senovážné nám�stí (Hay Market Square), has become a popular destination for local fashionistas and culture vultures.

Harddecore retails a wide range of clothing, jewellery and interior accessories, as well as Bakošová’s eponymous line of elegant, casual and comfortable womenswear made from high-quality materials and cut unconventionally yet simply. Such is the popularity of Bakošová’s designs, that her clothing is worn by award-winning Czech actress Lenka Krobotová, and documentarist and Petra Nesva�ilová has become the face of the brand. www.harddecore.cz HARD-DE-CORE

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 115

CIHELNA CONCEPT STORE CIHELNA CONCEPT STORE Located in a 18th century former brick factory, on a well-trodden tourist path close to the river, not far from Charles Bridge and Prague Castle, Cihelna champions the best Czech design talent, purposefully eschewing the kitschy knick-knacks traditionally found in its neighbourhood’s tacky souvenir shops.

Curated by illustrator and design producer Silvie Lub�nová, the sophisticated collection includes tableware by high-tech glass factory Bomma, colourful pieces by ceramicist Milan Peka� and standout offerings from a host of young Czech jewellers from Adéla Fejtková to Blueberries and Zorya. Displayed on custommade monumental wood tables by Studio Dechem, over which a large chandelier by artist Rony Plesl hangs, the elegant space also doubles-up as a gallery with regular exhibitions. www.cihelnaprague.com GLASSIMO Specialising in Czech glass and porcelain from the studios of renowned artists as well as up-and-coming young designers, Glassimo was founded in 2015 to showcase the beauty of Bohemian designer glass and is located in the center of the city at 3 Elišky Krásnohorské. Much of what is on display at Glassimo are unique, one-off pieces, mouth-blown and hand crafted by some of the finest Czech glassmakers.

Browse glass works by Bo�ek Šípek, Ji�í Pa�inek and Kate�ina Smolíková; porcelain

by Daniel Pirš� and items by BOMMA - one of the most modern European producers of drinking glassware. Every item is sold with a certificate of authenticity and can be shipped anywhere on the planet - using a specialist freight company experienced in the safe transportation of glass and porcelain - so you need not carry your expensive purchases on a plane! www.glassimo.eu 116 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

GLASSIMO

CIHELNA CONCEPT STORE

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GLASSIMO

DUBAI WORLD CUP

The planet’s richest annual horse race, which attracts the cream of Dubai society as well as international glitterati, sees many millions of Dollars presented to the winners of the day’s races which continue well into the evening 30 March 2019

Duomo Presidential Suite Hotel Savoy, Florence

Nicholas Chrisostomou travels to Tuscany to explore Florence from the divine surroundings of the city’s most fabulous accommodation, the DUOMO PRESIDENTIAL SUITE at Hotel Savoy

I

would never normally open an article with car talk, but there’s nothing like a slick airport pick-up in a fancy motor to snap one out of a state of overtiredness and awaken the senses.

A 3.30 wake-up call and 6am flight had rendered me zombie-like upon landing at Bologna airport. But all that changed when a gleaming, dark blue Maserati Quattroporte glided into view, to whisk me the 100 kilometres to Firenze. Better still, my driver Bruno was Florentine through and through, having been born and lived his entire life in the city. A five-star stay experience is all about the details, and Hotel Savoy nailed it from the very start. As we almost flew down the autostrade at 150kmph and I luxuriated in the scent of expensive Italian leather, it was obvious that my Florentine weekend had already begun at a pace and in inimitable style.

Glimpsing for the very first time, a city that you are genuinely excited to be visiting, is a special moment. It’s a feeling that I rarely experience these days, having travelled the world and been lucky enough to see so much of it. But crossing the river Arno in the back of a Maserati, and catching sight of the Duomo, gave me such goose bumps, that any tiredness I had felt was instantly replaced by anticipation, akin to being plugged into Italy’s national grid. As I

chatted with Bruno, he deftly weaved his expensive charge down narrow back streets, past the magnificent Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and between hordes of people, until we were in front of our destination.

An imposing, long and narrow 19th century rectangular building positioned in the heart of Firenze, Hotel Savoy has been welcoming travellers for more than a century, and is renowned for being one of the finest places in the city to rest one’s head. So far as its location is concerned, the Savoy simply cannot be beaten. The hotel takes pride of place in the very middle of everything, on Piazza della Repubblica. The Duomo is mere seconds to the right and the Ponte Vecchio a few minutes’ walk to the left. The Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio are five minutes away.

The piazza, with its tacky carousel and rotating street musicians, is not the draw here.

The hotel’s proximity to the Duomo is. Some older European city hotels are often sited close to landmark monuments, because they were erected before the idea of marketing the view ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 123

was a concept. The Savoy is one of these, and consequently boasts a number of rooms with an incredible view that set it apart from the crowd. When visiting Florence there’s no more desirable view out of one’s bedroom window than the Duomo, especially for a Florentine newbie.

The Savoy’s first-time collaboration between Rocco Forte Hotels’ design director Olga Polizzi (also Sir Rocco’s younger sister) and Laudemia Pucci, daughter of the legendary designer Emilio, is immediately evident upon entering the hotel’s lobby, where brightly pattered fabric-covered armchairs make a sassy yet sophisticated statement against the sleek white paintwork and marble floors. It’s a wonderfully executed lobby and although noticeably devoid of a lounge, it does the job admirably. Beyond the lobby the feel is more classic, and a more traditional Italian elegance prevails, accented by the liberal use of fine fabrics and soft furnishings. My check-in is warm and swift and I’m in the lift in minutes. I do like a hotel where you don’t need a key-card to get to your floor, since too much tech can so easily destroy an otherwise fabulous arrival experience!

Exquisite fabrics and plush soft furnishings are a hallmark of the Savoy’s Duomo Presidential Suite, which was unveiled in 2018 as part of a complete remodelling of the hotel to reduce the number of keys to 80 and create more than thirty spacious and predominantly Italian suites.

Occupying its own wing on the fourth floor of the hotel and flooded with natural light thanks to the generous fenestration of the building’s façade, the Duomo Presidential Suite is the Savoy’s top room category and was to be my sumptuous home-away-from-home for the weekend.

A large, airy dual-aspect lounge boasting incredible views of Brunelleschi’s iconic cupola, Giotto’s beautiful bell tower and the façade of Florence’s signature monument; a separate dining room with its own balcony; a chic guest cloakroom; a spacious master bedroom and bath with large walk-in closet, and a second bedroom with its own en-suite, together make the Duomo Presidential Suite a veritable super-luxe self-contained serviced apartment in the very center of the Italian Renaissance world. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 125

Dominated by a huge mirrored low-slung square table, laden with coffee table books, candelabra and other gorgeous items, from one of the sofas in the lounge it was possible to laze and gaze at the Duomo, which I did, many times, with a glass of Gavi in close proximity.

Yet despite the room’s immense size, wooden parquet floors, an abundance of cushions and an array of tasteful objets d’art, books and artwork in the form of sculptures, contemporary Baroque-style busts, paintings and prints - not to mention scented fresh flowers subtly positioned throughout - combined to render the space warm, welcoming and entirely usable.

Despite being in the very center of Florence, just four storeys above its teeming streets, The Cultured Traveller felt as though he were gliding above the city, since the height somehow mitigated the noise of the piazza.

An oversized fabric-covered headboard dominated in the perfectly proportioned master bedroom, which was also dual-aspect thanks to three separate balconies, and furnished with a sofa and armchair, desk and huge bed adorned with just the right number of pillows.

LONG BAR

Again, divine fabrics prevailed throughout, and the original wooden window shutters were supplemented by heavy, flowing silk curtains to ensure truly restful slumber.

I intended to make the most of my 72-hours in the suite, so no sooner had my luggage been delivered that I was unpacking and getting comfortable in my lavish surroundings. I even made the acquaintance of an elegant, life-size ceramic hunting dog guarding the entrance.

After a jam-packed first day of visiting Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze and the Museum of the Opera del Duomo, having a tour of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and climbing 463 steps to the top of Brunelleschi’s cupola, it was a delight to return to the turquoise accented Duomo Suite to relax and recharge in such elegant comfort. As one would expect of a hotel with the Savoy’s pedigree, room service was prompt, housekeeping efficient and literally nothing was too much trouble for the friendly front desk team. Whilst I would have been happy to meet (and thank) the housekeeping team, we didn’t run into them once during the weekend, despite darting in and out of the hotel like yo-yos. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 127

The Savoy is located so close to all that matters in Florence, that we could literally walk everywhere and need never worry about whether our ‘phones had enough juice. Staying in such a central location really changes the dynamic when visiting a city like Florence, for when we tired of the crowds (and there are a lot of people, everywhere, in Florence) we escaped the mêlée and retreated to our five-star sanctuary at the drop of a hat.

As the weekend progressed, some of the Savoy’s other star qualities soon became apparent, quite apart from the exceptional lodgings. Not least, the hotel’s superb concierge team, which in fact started organising places to go and sights to see well before my arrival in Italy. One can often rate a hotel well before one’s arrival, based on the promptness of email ommunication and the willingness of a concierge team to go that extra mile.

The Savoy’s concierge team was second to none, before and throughout my stay, to the point that I actually missed the chaps after checking-out.

If money is no object, there is no better place to stay in Florence than the Savoy’s Duomo Presidential Suite. Striking a flawless balance between luxury and informality, the suite’s perfect proportions and contemporary Italian décor provide an incomparable urban haven from Firenze’s busy streets. If your budget doesn’t stretch to the best in the house, there are plenty of other rooms and suites at the Savoy which also boast the same unrivalled view of the Duomo. Either way, you’ll be gazing at one of the world’s architectural marvels and staying at Florence’s finest hospitality address.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in the Duomo Presidential Suite at Hotel Savoy in February 2019. The average nightly rate for the suite is EUR 6,600 (March 2019), EUR 7,700 (April 2019) and EUR 9,075 (May 2019) including breakfast. www.roccofortehotels.com

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 129

NAGHOL LAND DIVING

A brave man of the Sa tribe on Pentecost Island hurtles towards the ground from a wooden tower, with nothing more than tree vines tied around his ankles and no safety equipment, during an ancient, annual ritual Every Saturday between April and June 2019

ALEX BENASULI EMBRACES REFINED JAPANESE-STYLE OMOTENASHI HOSPITALITY IN ANA’S 777 FIRST CLASS

F

or my first trip ever to Japan, I tapped into a decade-long accumulation of Star Alliance miles and booked a firstclass seat on award winning All Nippon Airways (ANA). A maiden voyage to Japan would surely be enhanced if I immersed myself in the local culture and aesthetic sensibility from the first moment, which meant it had to be ANA. For years, global travellers have lamented about the decline in air travel glamour. Long gone are the days when commercial flying feels exclusive or sophisticated. Increasingly, even business class seems to be joining economy in becoming commoditised and anodyne. Yet, flying in first still

has cachet and elicits excitement even amongst the most jaded of travellers. While ANA’s premium product is not at the same level as Emirates and Singapore Airlines, it is the most stylish way to fly direct to Japan from North America and Europe.

ANA, along with all other Star Alliance carriers, depart from Heathrow’s Terminal 2. Also known as the Queen Elizabeth II Terminal, it is the newest and arguably the best of the airport’s terminals. One of the many positive attributes to Terminal 2, is that due to its modern design and cavernous proportions, it hardly ever feels crowded, even at busier times.

ANA’s first class check-in is quite literally a

breeze. With two dedicated counters for eight first class seats, there’s no wait and hardly any queueing going through priority security.

Most transcontinental flights depart from Terminal 2’s satellite B concourse which can be a good fifteen-minute walk. Personally, I like the opportunity to stretch my legs and get some mild exercise before a long flight, but ANA’s first class passengers are provided with electric buggy transfers. Nothing spells indulgence more than whooshing past bedraggled passengers en route to a far-away departure gate!

ANA premium passengers have access to Singapore

Airlines’ Silver Kris Lounge within which there is a separate first-class space with à la carte f&b offerings, a cocktail bar and shower rooms. In the hours leading up to ANA’s 7pm departure to Tokyo, no other flights use the lounge making it feel private and quiet. For those who like a little more action in their lounge experience, ANA’s first class passengers can also use United Airlines’ Polaris lounge which will re-open middle of this year. From both lounges the walk to the boarding gate is very short, so the transition from sipping champagne in the lounge to being received on board takes mere minutes.

The flight attendants, elegant attired in tailored suits, greet passengers with a customary deep bow and ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 135

warm konichiwa (Japanese for ‘hello’). It is at this moment that I know the experience will be special.

Having never flown ANA before, I was unaccustomed to the airline’s design ethos. The interior of the first-class cabin is very bright and modern, with clean lines and almost a spartan feel. White and off-whites dominate, with bright blue carpets and seating adding splashes of colour and generous light wood paneling adding warmth. This more minimalist aesthetic is in keeping with contemporary Japanese style, that eschews clutter and encourages harmony via simplicity rather than more showy interpretations of luxury found in other parts of the globe.

First class on an ANA 777-300 ER is configured as two seats in the centre and one at each window, across the two aisles, providing direct aisle access for all. Given that there are only two rows in first, the cabin feels intimate. As I settled into window seat 1A, I knew immediately that I would be in total comfort for the next eleven hours.

ANA refers to its best seats as “First Squares”.

Although not stand-alone suites in the most lavish sense, they are practically perfect self-contained individual worlds. The square cabins are lined in blond wood and have multiple compartments that house everything from hand luggage to wallets and eye glasses, in a way that makes perfect sense.

Entertainment consoles and noise-cancelling headphones disappear seamlessly behind panels to create clean lines everywhere. The large, blue adjustable dining tray is the ideal size, and moves around with ease to allow for getting in and out of the seat. And white paneling broken up with horizontal detailing on outside of each cabin creates the illusion of Japanese shoji style sliding doors, behind which cleverly designed wardrobe space accommodates coats and suits.

After take-off, flight attendants change into soft pink and blue modern interpretations of kimonos. This look is fun, evokes Kawaii (the Japanese culture of youthful cuteness) and

firmly positions ANA as a modern, forwardlooking carrier. Although, if truth be told, the part of ANA’s first class experience I was most looking forward to was the dinner service!

Presented by ANA’s “Connoisseurs”, the airline’s first class dining and drinks offering is truly refined and unique. There is whole menu dedicated to sake, Japanese whiskey, shochu and plum wines, all from award-winning and premium distillers. Ask to see the bottles just to marvel at their beautiful labels. ANA has repeatedly won awards for its wine and champagne selection, which is curated by a panel of the planet’s leading sommeliers, and has been serving Krug since ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 137

its inaugural flight in 1986. Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésimé 2006 is also poured in first.

Unless you dislike Japanese cuisine, I strongly recommend that you indulge in ANA’s original Japanese feast. This multi-course haute cuisine experience, known as kaiseki, embodies omotenashi more than almost any other element of Japanese service. Meticulously prepared and arranged small dishes are fashioned from only the freshest seasonal ingredients, rolled out in a programmed succession of courses. Served on a series of lacquered trays in individual traditional ceramic dishes - with every piece of food carefully arranged with its corresponding garnish - ANA’s first class kaiseki

meal is second to none. The flavours are equally sublime. Flight attendants patiently explain the courses and the seasonality of certain items with a sense of pride. On my flight there was some excitement that kabosu were onboard. A citrus fruit related to the yuzu, kabosu is only found in the Oita Prefecture for a few weeks every autumn. Equally impressive was the Western menu, on which caviar, foie-gras and wagyu featured, all à la carte, naturally.

With the meal service behind us and more than seven hours left in the sky, it was time to have my seat prepared for sleep. The top-notch Nishikawa Sangyo bedding, complete with an “Angel Float” pillow and ultra-light comforter made from Teijin

fibres, made for one of the most restful sleeps I’ve had on a long-haul flight. Hard-shell Samsonite first class amenity kits are stocked with Ginza products (Shiseido’s premium skincare line) together with a variety of hand and face towels that form part of a traditional Japanese cleansing ritual.

Waking up to freshly brewed matcha green tea is the perfect way to begin one’s descent into Tokyo, especially if you’re lucky enough to catch a glimpse of regal Mount Fuji as the plane begins its approach to the Japanese capital.

A masterclass in understated luxury and the Japanese art of omotenashi, skillfully

combining slick service and sincere hospitality with attention to detail and beautiful presentation, rendered my ANA first class experience seamless from start to finish.

Haneda is much closer to Tokyo than Narita (the city’s other main international airport), allowing for more convenient access to the city centre. Fully rested, I am excited and ready for Tokyo.

Alex Benasuli travelled on All Nippon Airways in First Class from London Heathrow to Tokyo Haneda in October 2018, on his own steam.

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 139

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL

Guest director for the festival’s 2019 celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and literature is multi award-winning Malian singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Rokia TraorÊ, pictured 4-26 May 2019

No Shoes Required AT

BANYAN TREE UNGASAN

Carolyn McKay kicks-off her shoes in a divine Balinese clifftop vacation hideaway that strikes the perfect balance between functionality and luxury

O

ne of the 13,677 islands that make up the nation of Indonesia, Bali is known worldwide for the range and diversity of its stunning scenery, from sandy beaches to coral gardens, rice terraces to active volcanoes and free-flowing waterfalls to peaceful lakes.

Complete with a lush tropical climate, rich and varied culture and a strong spirituality stemming from its Hindu population, it is unsurprising that Bali is known to many as the “Island of the Gods”.

island, catering to every price point. But, for the more discerning traveller seeking the luxury of peace and tranquillity, Banyan Tree Ungasan may well be the ultimate Balinese sanctuary.

Renowned for its warm welcomes and graceful hospitality (not to mention its party atmosphere), hordes of globetrotters have been travelling to Bali for decades, all searching for their own form of paradise.

Consequently, there is no shortage of exclusive resorts, five-star hotels and fancy villas on the Indonesian

40-minutes’ drive from the airport, the hilly limestone region of Uluwatu, on the south-western tip of Bali’s Bukit Peninsula, is famous for its pristine hidden beaches, dramatic rocky landscapes, high-end clifftop resorts and world-class surf breaks. Happily, the area is also still comparatively less developed than the

Heading south in air-conditioned comfort after departing Bali’s main airport, the craziness that defines Bali’s traffic soon gives way to narrow winding lanes and large stretches of forest punctuated with tantalising glimpses of the Indian Ocean.

rest of the island. It is here that Banyan Tree Ungasan is located, and stepping into the all-villa resort is seemingly a world away from the rest of the island andits touristy crowds.

After being greeted by name and bestowed with a traditional blessing, guests are quickly whisked away - along pathways bedecked with frangipanis, bougainvillea and other verdant flora and fauna - to the sanctuary of their private holiday abodes. Check-in formalities are either completed swiftly without drama or in advance of arriving. With just 73 luxury villas spread over the undulating terrain of a sprawling 10-hectare site, buggies are de rigueur for getting around and hence on call 24/7.

Kicking-off one’s shoes in a plush private villa,

complete with its own 10-metre infinity pool surrounded by lush, established vegetation affording itsinhabitants complete privacy, it’s hard not to be completely overcome by my new clifftop vacation hideaway. Dream-like is most certainly one way to describe it. The perfect place to slip off the grid for a few days, I set about unpacking and settling-in, before sinking into a day bed perfectly positioned under a large Balinese bale to take full advantage of the panoramic views.

Barefoot luxury comes in many different forms at Banyan Tree Ungasan one of the most obvious is space. At more than 400sqm, the resort’s entry-level one-bedroom pool villas are some of the largest in Bali. They offer the freedom to seriously spread out and pad about, relax in one of numerous cosy corners ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 147

and really enjoy the space, while gently cooling sea breezes waft over you. And being able to step directly into a shimmering private pool, where the bedroom ends, is nothing short of an utter delight.

Built in a traditional Balinese architectural style with contemporary features and high-quality finishes, and furnished simply yet stylishly with careful attention to detail, the overall effect, throughout my villa, is one of restrained luxury.

Walls of floor-to-ceiling sliding doors ensure that glass doesn’t interrupt the incredible Indian Ocean vistas visible from the living area, bedroom and bathroom. Meanwhile, the expansive use of natural materials and muted tones tenderly encourages relaxation, to a backdrop of nature’s soothing sounds.

The large, light-filled marble-lined bathroom includes a separate walk-in rain-shower, oversized deepsoaking bathtub from which one can gaze out in various directions, his and hers sinks, ample storage for even the most lavish traveller, plus an extensive range of amenities comprising local Indonesian products created especially for each gender’s unique needs.

A daily ‘’scent of the day’’ in the room’s oil burners, hand-stitched silk blankets on the beds, fresh picked orchids and ferns atop wooden end tables and pillow menus are just some of the many details which pepper every villa.

In line with Banyan Tree’s philosophy to help guests completely relax and rejuvenate, spa therapists and chefs happily come directly to your villa to perform

a Balinese massage or prepare a dinner feast. So, you need never put on your shoes, or leave your cozy oasis, if you don’t want to.

After a good night’s sleep, there’s nothing quite like awaking to the sight of dawn breaking and the sun arising in front of your villa. Famed Uluwatu Temple, one of the six key spiritual pillars revered by the Balinese people, is but a short trip from the resort and another spectacular location from which to watch the sunrise.

For those wishing to dip their toes in the Indian Ocean, a footpath provides access to beautiful Melasti Beach, which is located below towering limestone cliffs and boasts some of the island’s most cerulean waters. Here, Banyan Tree staff are on hand to set-up sun loungers and provide cold refreshments to hotel guests.

For a truly indulgent afternoon, it’s worth the short trip to the resort’s onsite spa, which follows the same methods that were pioneered by the first ever Banyan Tree property in Phuket. Offering time-honoured treatments ranging from deep-tissue massages to relaxing aromatherapy, the spa exclusively uses products that reflect the resort’s passion for holistic and spiritual cleansing.

An utterly divine treat for the senses, Banyan Tree’s signature Tropical Rainmist treatment takes place under a trickling rain shower, which allows the peaceful flow of water to relieve tension, while therapists use steam and honey milk to purify the skin before it’s boosted with extra moisture. After a treatment, relax with some fresh ginger tea and luxuriate in the breathtaking views, since there’s no need to return to the real world just yet! ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 149

With four onsite restaurants there’s plenty of choice if you fancy eating out of your villa, and Banyan Tree positively encourages its guests to eat exactly what they want when they want.

From the casual Pool Bar (beside the resort’s jaw-dropping infinity pool) which is open all day serving light bites and tropical cocktails; to Ju-Ma-Na Restaurant & Bar where French cuisine with a Japanese twist is offered for lunch and dinner; and the resort’s bijou Tamarind restaurant which serves contemporary renditions of Indonesian cuisine for dinner only, there are sufficient onsite culinary options to satisfy even the most discerning gourmand. A decadent in-villa barbeque can even be arranged, in a variety of cuisines to suit pretty much any palate.

Despite the fact that occupancy was high during my stay at Banyan Tree Ungasan, there were many times when it honestly felt like I had the place to myself, such is the size of the property, the sophistication of its guests and the relatively low number of villas presided over by ever-gracious and professional staff providing attentive yet discreet service.

If you opt to stay at Banyan Tree Ungasan when you visit Bali, you would be forgiven for never leaving the resort during your Balinese sojourn. I barely ventured out of the villa during my 4-day stay. Striking the perfect balance between luxury and functionality, without being overtly flashy, makes Banyan Tree Ungasan unique in a 21st-century vacation world of decadent excess, and it’s the kind of unique one just cannot get enough of. www.banyantree.com/en/indonesia/ungasan-bali

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SPOTLIGHT

BHUTAN THE WORLD’S LAST MAGIC KINGDOM

In this day and age, any country which measures and protects the collective happiness & wellbeing of its population in terms of its Gross National Happiness must surely be on the bucket list of every happy-go-lucky globetrotter

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espite being sandwiched between the rapidly developing powerhouses of India and China, the mere mention of Bhutan conjures up an intense air of magic and mystery. The Land of the Thunder Dragon. Lho Mon Kha Zhi - the country of four approaches. The Last Shangri-La. Throughout its long history, Bhutan has been known by many names, each adding to its reputation as an almost legendary, mythical land.

Today, this tiny remote Himalayan kingdom’s sense of unrushed timeliness is at odds with the internet-fuelled frenzy of contemporary 21st century western life. Bhutan is a land of awe-inspiring peaks and glaciers; of pristine mountain lakes and fast-owing rivers fed by monsoons and melting snow; of dense ancient forests; of tigers and leopards, bears and antelope.

Magnificent centuries-old fortresses (or dzongs) rise from cliff faces and valley oors; time-honoured stories of gods

and kings, heroes and demons swirl in the clouds; and traditional dancers mesmerise the senses in a whirl of brightlycoloured silk and richly decorated masks.

Isolated from the rest of the world for hundreds of years, Bhutan wasn’t opened to travellers until 1974, at which stage local people had never met a tourist. Even as recently as five years ago, most locals hadn’t had any contact with the outside world, since tourists just visited the country’s temples and fortresses. Unsurprisingly, the government had to tread very carefully to both preserve the pristine environment and unique cultural heritage.

You won’t see a backpacker in Bhutan. A ban on independent travel to deter budget travellers and insisting that every international visitor spends a minimum of USD250 per day in high season and USD200 in low season, has positioned Bhutan as a pioneer of high-value low-impact tourism, pre-empted the risk of over-tourism and protects the ►

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population of 800,000 and their way of life. As a result, those who visit Bhutan are generally seasoned tourists who do their research before arriving, and are thus engaged with the country and respectful of its traditions when travelling around the Buddhist kingdom.

International travellers must sign-up with a registered Bhutanese tour agency before arriving in the country. The minimum spend includes money spent on food, transport, guides and accommodation, so in reality it’s more like an inclusive holiday than a tourist tax. Moreover, USD65 of the USD200-250 goes to the government, which reinvests the money to provide free education and healthcare for its people.

Landing in Bhutan is an experience in itself and only a handful of pilots are suďŹƒciently skilled to approach tiny Paro International Airport, nestled among the Himalayas at 2.5 kilometres above sea level. Even Boeing has said that Paro is

‘one of the world’s most difficult for take-offs and landings’. A runway of just 2 kilometres long, a surrounding landscape of 5,000 metre peaks and an abundance of mountain foliage mean that pilots need to weave their planes through dozens of houses scattered across the mountainside, often coming within a few metres of clipping roofs. Despite the perilous conditions, the views as you come in to land - over Paro River’s clear blue waters and the lush green foliage of the Himalayas - are breathtaking, and provide a tantalising amuse-bouche of what’s to come.

The Bhutanese believe that true advancement of human society only takes place when material and spiritual development occur side by side. So, conserving the kingdom’s environment as tourism gradually grows, as well as preserving Bhutan’s cultural and spiritual heritage, are paramount to the government. This is evident in a variety of measures designed to minimise the impact of the increasing numbers of travellers visiting Bhutan. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 159

The constitution stipulates that at least 60 percent of Bhutan will always remain under forest cover (the current level is 72 percent) and so much of this terrain is swathed with national parks and nature reserves. Biologically, Bhutan straddles an area with incredibly high biodiversity richness - the Eastern Himalayas – and protected land is connected via a network of ‘biological corridors’, so animals are free to roam throughout vast tracts of the countryside. This remarkable system has boosted Bhutan as both a world biodiversity hotspot and a haven for endangered species, where Royal Bengal tigers, clouded leopards, Himalayan black bears, antelopes and red pandas can be seen in their natural habitat.

Bhutan is the only place on Earth where leopards and tigers share the same habitat.

The Royal Bengal tiger has been a Bhutanese symbol of religious power for centuries. In fact, the nation’s most famous monastery, Paro Taktsang, is colloquially known as the Tiger’s Nest after the legend that renowned Indian tantric master Padmasambhava flew to the rocky outcrop on the back of a supernatural tigress. Unsurprisingly therefore,

Bhutan’s elusive mountain tigers are revered and treasured, and they roam wild in the rugged mountains of Bhutan, not just in lowland jungle areas such as Royal Manas National Park, but also high in the foothills of the Himalayas and Jigme Dorji National Park that extends to the Tibetan border. Hence, all over the kingdom, you will see tigers painted in brilliant colours on the walls of houses, monasteries and palaces.

Free from the tourist hordes that constantly descend upon Nepal, trekking in Bhutan is an altogether more pleasurable experience and a must for any visitor who is even vaguely energetic, to experience its unspoiled culture and stunning nature. From gentle treks through ancient rhododendron forests to challenging hikes that traverse the country, Bhutan offers something for walkers and trekkers of all levels. The Jhomolhari Trek is perhaps Bhutan’s most popular and follows an ancient trade route, through Jigme Dorji National Park to fantastic views of sacred Jhomolhari peak, more than 7,000 metres up, on the Tibetan border. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 161

A number of world-class physical challenges also appeal to the more adventurous, including the one-day Tour of the Dragon bike race (allegedly the toughest one-day race in the world) and the notorious 28-day Snowman Trek. And for thrill-seekers, Bhutan offers white-water rafting in six major crystal-clear rivers fed by the glacial-melt of the Eastern Himalayas, varying in classes and adrenaline-generating speeds.

If kicking off your shoes and relaxing is more your thing, an abundance of luxury wellness retreats provides an opportunity to rejuvenate your body and mind via yoga, guided meditation, natural medicines and spiritual day tours to ancient temples and monasteries.

Bhutan’s Machu Picchu and hugging the side of a rocky cliff 3,000 feet above Paro valley, it is 1,000 steps and a fourhour roundtrip to hike to ‘The Tiger’s Nest’ of Paro Taktsang which was built in 1692. But the going is manageable if

taken slowly, for the path is well built, regularly maintained and the mountain air is refreshing. Plus, there are plenty of opportunities to pause en route to catch one’s breath and admire the incredible views.

Also worth visiting is Punakha Dzong, one of the most majestic and famous structures in the country (built without the use of nails, not even one) and widely considered to be the most beautiful dzong in Bhutan. At just over 51 metres tall, gilded bronze Buddha Dordenma near Thimphu is one of the biggest Buddha statues in the world. Located atop a hill in Kuenselphodrang Nature Park, it also offers visitors panoramic views of Bhutan’s capital and surrounding mountains.

Despite being a relative newcomer to the tourism industry, Bhutan offers a variety of places to rest one’s head, ranging from small hotels and homestays to five-star resorts and luxury retreats. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 163

In a country like Bhutan, a homestay offers infinitely more contact and an immersive alternative to a luxury hotel which more often than not could be anywhere. Wild Frontiers arranges small group tours and tailor-made holidays to Bhutan, including homestays. (wildfrontierstravel.com) At the other end of the hospitality scale, COMO Uma Paro is one of Bhutan’s most exclusive retreats, hosting international travellers who want to both immerse themselves in the local culture and enjoy first-class hospitality. Perched on a verdant hilltop overlooking the town of Paro, the resort features nine beautifully appointed private villas and 20 luxury rooms, all of which combine contemporary design with Bhutanese artisanship. (www.comohotels.com/umaparo) Six Senses Bhutan quite possibly provides the most complete five-star hospitality experience is the country, via a collection of five boutique lodges located in different parts of the kingdom, three of which have already opened

(in Thimphu, Punakha and Paro Valley). The last two lodges (in Gangtey and Bumthang) will open this year. The Thimphu lodge (the largest in the collection), is known as a “Palace in the Sky” since its design is inspired by the architectural elements of a dzong (fortress) and the clouds. All lodges boast over-sized decks, floor-to-ceiling windows offering uninterrupted views, and a spa and wellness center with facilities and treatments reflecting the valley in which they are set. (www.sixsenses.com/resorts/bhutan/destination) Wherever you stay in Bhutan, one thing is certain: you are destined to experience a sense of wonder in this unique part of the world. From the dizzying mountain peaks to the verdant valleys, Bhutan will undoubtedly charm and captivate all of your senses. And, if you are fortunate, you may experience the age-old magic at the heart of the kingdom’s primeval forests, when time stands still, even if only just for a moment.

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THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

Adorned with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings a row of gentle giants lines-up at the annual elephant festival held in Thrissur, the cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala 13 May 2019

KYOTO

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN The pinnacle of Japanese civilization, history and culture, KYOTO also combines big city sophistication with small town charm. Having immersed himself in this most rewarding of destinations, Alex Benasuli feels that he will never be the same again

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or more than a millennium, until 1868, Kyoto served as the capital of Japan and the seat of its political, military and religious power. Somewhat unsurprisingly, therefore, the Japan of samurais and geishas, of grand temple complexes and sublime gardens, of mountain backdrops and crystal-clear streams and of cherry blossoms and autumn foliage are all showcased in Kyoto. Its glorious past and gorgeous nature-filled surroundings are to be discovered around every corner.

Yet, while Kyoto is more popular as a tourist destination than ever before, the city’s myriad of attractions ensures that there is plenty of room for everyone. Hidden spots are still be to found and once-in-a-lifetime moments to be experienced. This is an exotic and seductive place, where your jaw will literally drop multiple times each day and all your romantic notions of the Land of the Rising Sun will be more than satisfied.

They say that there’s a temple for every mood and taste in Kyoto. With over 2,000 of them spread across the city, it would take months, if not years, to explore them all.

Large temple complexes with multi-tiered pagodas and immaculately landscaped gardens give way to smaller, Shinto shrines. And while many of the country’s most important buildings and antiquities are to be found in Kyoto, it is the depth of what is on offer that is truly staggering. Pace yourself. See the highlights but allow time to wander around and to go a little off-piste. Invariably you will stumble upon another marvel within minutes.

For all the throngs of visitors filling the streets and temple courtyards, there are also quieter scenic routes that wind through residential neighbourhoods, replete with intimate cafés, art galleries and authentic noodle shops that all offer natural breaks from the sightseeing.

If you only had a few hours in Kyoto, the delightful Philosopher’s Walk (also known as the Path of the Philosopher) in the northern Higashiyama district would be the best way to feel immersed. The two kilometre path follows a canal which is enveloped by hundreds of cherry blossom trees, making it one of the most popular walks in Kyoto during the annual season in spring.

On one side of the path, some of Kyoto’s most beautiful temples are accessible, overlooked by the rolling Higashiyama mountains. During autumn, the same cherry trees and mountain forests explode in shades of red, yellow and orange. In the hot and humid summer months, the canal waters, shaded by the tree canopies, offer some respite from the heat. Meanwhile, on the ►

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THE PHILOSPHER’S WALK

other side of the path and leading down the slope through upscale residential streets, cafés, casual restaurants and quirky boutiques abound. Just beyond the northern end of the walk, take a taxi or the metro and make your way to Ginkaku-ji Temple.

Known as the “Silver Pavilion”, Ginkaku-ji was originally built in 1484, though it has been rebuilt and renovated many times since, following earthquakes and fires over the centuries. “Silver” refers to the moonlight shadow cast upon the dark wood exterior of its central pavilion.

The foreground of the temple boasts one of Japan’s most celebrated sand gardens, meticulously raked into Zen-like concentric circles, with a massive sand cone

GINKAKU-JI TEMPLE SAND GARDEN

as its apex. This “Sea of Silver Sand with Moon Viewing Platform” (as this garden is formally called) is designed to encourage spiritual contemplation and provides an intro to Japanese garden. The much larger “moss” garden on the other side (of a massive wooden gate) is laid out as a series of winding pathways that make their way up the foothills of the mountain slope, with ponds, streams, bridges, tea houses and temple buildings as focal points. The views over the entire garden, the temple buildings and northern Higashiyama are breathtaking.

Just beyond the southern end of the Philosopher’s Walk, around a 40-minute walk from Ginkaku-ji, lies the equally impressive Nanzen-ji temple which

dates back to the mid 13th century. Nanzen-ji’s rock garden is meant to evoke tigers and cubs crossing through water. Like most temples in Kyoto, the inner buildings house priceless collections of fine arts. In the case of Nanzen-ji, these are screen doors with tigers depicted in gold leaf. A mid-19th century Meiji-era aqueduct, plus a hidden waterfall 200 metres higher up at the rear of the complex in the Higashiyama Forest, add to the allure of Nanzen-ji.

In between the temple complexes of Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji, along (or just off) the Philosopher’s Walk, are a handful of other temples, including magical Hōnen-in and peaceful Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. One can

NANZEN-JI TEMPLE AQUEDUCT

easily spend hours or days even, soaking up the temples and natural beauty of this part of Kyoto.

To the south of Higashiyama there are number of other Kyoto must-sees. Another half day circuit could begin with a visit to Sanjūsangen-dō. Housed within the longest wooden structure in Japan, which dates back to the mid 1200s, it is an incredible sight. A large, central wooded Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy) with 1,000 arms, is flanked on either side by 500 humansized standing Kannons. Each Kannon has eleven heads and 42 arms, making them better equipped to witness and fight against human suffering. Impressive barely conveys the feeling of gazing upon this army of gold ►

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SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ (MAIN HALL)

SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ

leafed wooden statues, illuminated from above. The site is often referred to as Japan’s equivalent of China’s terracotta warriors. (https://kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/159) A short walk from Sanjūsangen-dō is Tōfoku-ji, another jewel in Kyoto’s’ crown of larger temples. Tōfoku-ji is usually less crowded than the others. It also has one of the best gardens to experience the autumn foliage, with scores of soaring maple trees, an abundance of water features and a variety viewing points from which to appreciate the scale and beauty of one of Japan’s most important Zen temples from different angles.

Around the corner is Funda-in, a sub-temple of Tōfokuji. This hidden gem has one of the oldest dry landscape gardens in Kyoto, and a series of traditional Japanese-style rooms - concealed behind shoji-style sliding doors - house breathtaking screen paintings and delicate antiques.

Twenty minutes south from Tōfoku-ji, is the busy, brash and seemingly more commercial Fushimi Inari Shrine.

At first glance, its temple buildings - interspersed with street food vendors, religious merchandise stall holders - seem quite different to the more contemplative and elegant temple sites elsewhere in the city. However, make no mistake, this is perhaps the most important site in all of Kyoto and almost certainly one of its most Instagramed. (https://kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/180) Fushimi Inari’s iconic status is secured by the ten thousand vermillion coloured Torii gates, some dating back over a millennium, that ascend Inari mountain from the main temple complex. The visual effect of multiple ribbons of brightly hued gates, forming parallel and seemingly endless pathways to the shrine at the top of the mountain, is truly mesmerising. The further up you climb through the gates and bamboo forests, passing thousands of moss-covered stone foxes along the way, the more you will have this remarkable place to yourself. Inari is the all-important Shinto god of rice, and the foxes are his guardians and messengers. The spectacular views from the top, across Kyoto, are well worth the few hours of uphill effort to get there!

The riverside suburb of Arashiyama is another part of Kyoto which displays the city’s seductive charms. Easily accessed by metro, bus or taxi, Arashiyama is easily worthy of a half day if not a whole. This leafy, western district - nestled along the Katsura River under the watchful eye of the Arashiyama mountains - makes for extremely pleasant walking, moderate hiking and cycling, particularly during ► NANZEN-JI TEMPLE AQUEDUCT

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spring, autumn and December during Hanatoro when thousands of lights and flowers softly-illuminate streets filled with shrines and temples. The bamboo forest behind Tenryū-ji Temple and iconic Togetsukyo Bridge (“Moon-Crossing Bridge”) are two of the best places to experience Hanatoro and Arashiyama in general.

The largest and most impressive temple in Arashiyama is Tenryū-ji, which dates back to 1339 and is one of Kyoto’s five great Zen temples. Its walking and garden paths are as striking as its main buildings. Nearby, Ōkōchi Sansō is a must for garden lovers. This former villa of one of Japan’s most famous actors from the last century, has multiple tea houses, traditional wooden buildings dotted

ARASHIYAMA

around immaculate gardens and views over Arashiyama.

As is the case in Higashiyama, while the traditional tourist highlights are exemplary, you are encouraged to wander and explore. There are temples and shrines almost everywhere and the nature around Kyoto is breathtaking. If you are looking for mountain paths, rolling rivers, babbling brooks, and bridges straight out of a classic wood block print, you will find them all in Arashiyama, which also makes an excellent starting point for adventures in the mountains nearby.

For the little less active, the 25-minute Sagano Scenic Railway, which connects Arashiyama to rural

FUSHIMI-INARI - TORII GATES

Kameoka through mountainsides, forested ravines and along the Hozugawa river, is an excellent way to see the incredible scenery. And the period carriages with their wooden benches - a faithful reproduction of the original late 19th century train - only adds to the charming experience. (www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/en) There will come a point in your visit to Kyoto where you will likely become temple saturated. Walking around for hours at a time stimulates an appetite and the need to unwind. Gion, historically Kyoto’s entertainment district, adjacent to Higashiyama, is still the area with the highest density of bars and restaurants was well as traditional Geisha hostess lounges. You will see kimono dressed

SHIMONZEN DORI

women all over the streets, temples and hotel lobbies in Kyoto. However, in Gion they are even more prevalent.

The Hanami-koji area of Gion (on the south side of Shijo-dori) has the best-preserved streets, with the highest concentration of traditional, wooden machiya merchant houses. The side streets also provide multiple characterful dining and drinking options.

Gion Manzara is a popular but intimate restaurant, within a traditional house, that serves Kyotostyle home cooking on brightly coloured Japanese ceramic dishes, appealing to both tourists and locals alike (www.manzara.co.jp/gion). â–ş

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A short walk away, the area between Yasaka Shrine leading up to Kiyomizudera Temple offers another cluster of well-preserved streets, with numerous choices for more casual eating as well as some decent souvenir shopping.

Fine arts collectors or those looking for special treasures should head to Shinmonzen-Dori in Gion, which is lined with reputable antique and art dealers, some of whom have been there for over 100 years.

Over in Arashiyama, Kitcho Arashiyama is one of the best places (if not most expensive), to indulge in multicourse, immaculately prepared Japanese haute kaiseki cuisine (www.kyoto-kitcho.com). Nearby, Café Hassui

sits on Hozugawa River, boasts indoor and outdoor seating and panoramic views, and serves tea, coffee, light bites and evening cocktails in a sophisticated yet welcoming setting. (www.suirankyoto.com/hassui) Whether you have a few hours or a few weeks, spending time in Kyoto is like being in a dream that you don’t want to end. With Japan’s glorious past on display around every corner of Kyoto, you will leave the city more entranced than ever by its intriguing motherland, where art, architecture, nature, tradition and attention to detail effortlessly fuse together, providing visitors with a unique and deeply satisfying cultural travel experience. (https://kyoto.travel/en)

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HYATT REGENCY KYOTO Hyatt Regency Kyoto quite honestly has it all.

Contemporary Japanese-inspired design throughout, multiple restaurant and bar venues and an enviable location combine to produce an overall guest experience that is a true pleasure at every level.

Despite increased competition in the Kyoto luxury hotel market, the Hyatt Regency continues to deliver an exceptional five-star full-service hospitality experience. For more than a decade, the property has skillfully managed to bring together the design flair and uber-coolness of a boutique hotel with the deferential and perfectionist Japanese hospitality concept of omotenashi in its 187 rooms, three restaurants, spa, gym, Japanese garden and shrine.

Hyatt Regency Kyoto sits directly across the street from Kyoto National Museum, on the edge of southern Higashiyama, arguably the part of Kyoto most densely packed with historical treasures as well as entertainment possibilities. Sanjūsangendō temple is literally around the corner. Yet despite being conveniently located off a main street just ten-minutes in a taxi from the main train station, the hotel is discreetly tucked away behind a bamboo forest, offering peace, quiet and a sense of refuge.

The hotel’s cavernous lobby, lined in whites, creams and browns, makes liberal use of wood, stone, marble and other natural materials to create a sophisticated yet warm and inviting space. An intricate geometric lattice work ceiling is mesmerising. While the Hyatt Regency brand is generally better known for traditional décor, the Kyoto incarnation stuns with its clean lines and modernism. Designed by acclaimed Japanese studio Super Potato, the decor also incorporates reworked Japanese design elements throughout. Shojistyle sliding doors and window frames abound and are echoed in oversized floor lanterns and wall decorations augmented by mirrors. Arriving into such a lobby after a long journey or day of sightseeing is an utter delight.

The lobby flows into all-day-dining restaurant, The Grill, which also serves afternoon tea. A wall of windows revealing the hotel’s stunning Japanese garden adds to an overall feeling of serenity.

Contemporary Japanese Guest rooms are functional and comfortable with some fun touches, and feature ► 180 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

a generous use of plain wood, low slung beds and shojistyle lighting. Horizontal tapestries of different coloured antique kimonos hang above the beds providing a vibrant injection. Bedside table digital consoles provide an abundance of useful, well-presented info at the touch of a finger. Deluxe rooms boast tranquil views over the inner courtyard and Japanese garden. All rooms have large wet room-style showers and oversized bath tubs with carefully curated bath salts to aid relaxation. The baths in fifth floor Balcony Deluxe rooms are fashioned from prized Japanese cypress wood.

The hotel’s Japanese dining venue, Touzan, is consistently ranked one of the most popular restaurants in the city. With a focus on seasonal produce sourced from farms in Kyoto’s suburbs, opting for one of the set menus (which change with the seasons) is the best way to experience the best of Touzan’s excellent fare. And stylish Touzan Bar (adjacent to the restaurant), with its variety of seating options, make it perfect for a cosy, post dinner digestif.

Serving authentic pizzas and home-style dishes, excellent onsite Italian restaurant Trattoria Sette is as popular with locals as it is with guests. Meanwhile, the hotel’s Pastry Boutique is a naughty place to stop and stock-up with takeaway treats.

A 24-hour fitness room, kitted-out with a full range of machines, free weights and cardio equipment, satisfies even the most demanding of gym goers.

While for a more relaxing respite, Riraku Spa offers a range of therapies specializing in shiatsu, acupuncture and aromatherapy, and minimalist décor throughout its 10 treatment rooms encourages guests to loosen-up, slow down and heal. After a full day of temple hopping, unwinding with a signature treatment in Riraku Spa is a real treat.

Hyatt Regency Kyoto manages to deliver the highest standards of hospitality in a professional yet personal way, based on high levels of luxury deftly married with local charm and Japanese traditions. Nothing illustrates this more than the daily, early evening appearance of an apprentice geisha (a Maiko), dressed in full kimono regalia, gracefully performing a traditional dance in the hotel’s lobby. Kyoto has been enchanting visitors for centuries. Hyatt Regency Kyoto embraces that enchantment to deliver a flawless 21st century Japanese hospitality experience. kyoto.regency.hyatt.com ALEX BENASULI Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 183

REVIEW MATSUHISA PARIS FRANCE

Food Atmosphere

Situated within the legendary Royal Monceau, MATSUHISA PARIS promises Joe Mortimer a celebratory dining experience that tantalises all of his senses

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t was more than 30 years ago that Nobuyuki Matsuhisa opened his first restaurant in Beverly Hills, featuring a menu inspired by his experiences of working in kitchens across Japan and South America. Classical Japanese cuisine was embellished with the addition of Peruvian flavours and ingredients: spicy peppers, punchy sauces and unique dishes like ceviche and tiraditos. Below the equator, they called this genre of Japanese-Peruvian cuisine ‘nikkei’, but Matsuhisa had another term for it: ‘Nobu-style’. The restaurant quickly attracted a cult following in LA, and regular diner Robert de Niro invited the chef to team up and open a restaurant in New York. The rest, as they say, is history.

Today, the Nobu name is burnished on 40 restaurants across the globe: an empire stretching from Honolulu to Tokyo. The first ever Nobu hotel was an instant classic when it opened in 2012 at Caesar’s Palace in Vegas, with the promise of the restaurant’s food available via room service. Seven more hotels have opened since, and the brand’s growth doesn’t look likely to slacken any time soon.

While the expansion of Nobu-branded restaurants has been well publicised, the chef has also quietly grown his original Matsuhisa concept, with a small collection of independent restaurants that blend the chef’s signature style with more destination specific dishes that evoke a sense of place in each location.

The most recent addition to the family is Matsuhisa Paris, which opened in Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris in 2016, joining other branches in Aspen, Athens, Mykonos and Munich, as well as the Beverly Hills original. The restaurant takes pride of place among the culinary offerings at Le Royal Monceau, a Parisian hospitality landmark that’s just a few hundred metres from the Arc de Triomphe.

The restaurant is already doing a brisk trade when I arrive at 8pm on a Monday night, and tables are filling up fast, mostly with groups of three and four, almost all in business dress, as well as a few couples. The hum of conversation floats above the music, which is provided by a DJ stood somewhere out of sight. Great domed lights float above the restaurant, which is essentially an open-plan space with intimate alcoves along both sides, broken up by wood-panelled columns and translucent drapes that hang from the high ceiling. ►

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Glitzy, mirrored waiters’ stations lend a splash of Art Deco style, a nod perhaps to the roaring 1920s and that great French institution: the cabaret. At the back of the room, in front of a backlit wall of lime green bamboo, the Omakase Bar and sushi kitchen take centre stage. Here, in front of the live audience, a brigade of sushi chefs prepares elaborate raw dishes akin to works of art. I pull up a pew and wait for the performance to begin.

Anyone familiar with the Japanese chef’s cuisine will be instantly at home in Matsuhisa Paris. I’ve eaten at Nobu restaurants in Las Vegas and Dubai, and the menu here is full of familiar dishes, as well as a sprinkling of plates clearly inspired by the Parisian location: wagyu beef with foie gras ravioli grabs my attention, as do the crispy oysters with caviar. But since most of the dishes on the à la carte menu are designed for sharing, I opt for the Omakase Menu: an eight-course degustation that promises to showcase the best of Matsuhisa’s cuisine, executed here under the leadership of Executive Chef Hideki Endo, who cut his teeth in Nobu kitchens in Japan and Hong Kong before arriving in Paris.

From the privileged position at the Omakase Bar, diners can observe Endo’s handiwork, as he carefully slices through gorgeous fillets of fresh tuna and salmon, selects edible flowers and the best-looking slivers of vegetables, and transforms them into fantastical ensembles. He flashes a grin when I suggest that it looks easy, but his concentration is steadfast as he simultaneously prepares two exquisite looking dishes. A junior chef approaches with two plates of a house special, red mullet sashimi, for approval. Both are spectacular, delicate and whimsical, almost too good-looking to eat. Endo nods his satisfaction.

Whilst the restaurant has a weighty wine list and a handsome selection of Japanese sakes, I start with a cocktail: a harmonious blend of aged tequila, ginger infusion, fresh lime and agave syrup, collectively called Gold Rush. It’s a triumph: a medley of flavours perfectly balanced to complement the style of cuisine, and a wonderful start to what promises to be a fantastic experience.

The culinary journey begins with Scottish salmon tartar, topped with French ‘Imperial’ caviar and wasabi flowers, surrounded by a wasabi and ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 191

soy sauce with a glossy sheen. It’s a tantalising introduction to the playfulness of ‘Nobu-style’: silky salmon and salty caviar that contrasts beautifully with the wasabi soy, setting the tone for the menu. To finish, a delicious little Japanese peach is popped in whole and whoosh: palate cleansed.

Another elegant plate follows: yellowtail sashimi on cucumber slices and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño, basking in a yuzu soy, flaunting Matsuhisa’s passion for incorporating South American ingredients in classical Japanese cuisine. An assortment of nigiri – tuna, sea bass and Saint-Jacques scallops – comes next, accompanied by a California roll and a delicate Japanese omelette, embossed with the Matsuhisa logo, all served directly onto a banana leaf on the bar top. The wasabi is grated fresh, the ginger is chunky and moreish and the soy sauce is wonderfully tangy, but it’s the live preparation that really make this course stand out, turning a simple dish into an exclusive experience.

While I savour the sushi, one of the chefs prepares a spectacular platter of king crab with burrata and pepper sauce, a beautiful dish that takes a full 10 minutes to assemble. Like many on the à la carte menu, the plate is meant for sharing and creates an instant wow-factor at the table. That, I believe, is the spirit of this restaurant: the food is celebratory, designed to elicit not only sensory pleasure, but conversation, surprise and delight.

It’s an exploration in gastronomy: a journey down the rabbit hole of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s creative mind.

The Omakase Menu is more of an introduction to the oeuvre: an overview of the chef’s vision that focuses on flavours and textures, rather than aesthetics. A case in point: the seared tuna tataki salad and addictive ‘Matsuhisa’ dressing is delicious, and the sauce is extraordinary, but the presentation lacks the flair that’s evident on many of the beautiful plates emerging from the sushi bar.

Signature black cod is an essential part of any Nobu or Matsuhisa dining experience, and this one doesn’t fail to impress. Presented simply on a banana leaf with a thin shoot of pickled ginger, the diner is forced to devote their attention to the piece of fish and savour every bite. And it’s every bit as good as it should be.

Chunks of voluptuous, silky cod flake at the lightest touch of the chopstick and melt in the mouth. ► 192 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

The fish is cooked to perfection, and after 24 hours marinating in yuzu miso, it’s infused with a deep, rich flavour that verges on buttery. This is ‘Nobu-style’ at its best: taking a simple ingredient and finding the best possible expression of it to delight diners.

I’m still lost in a pleasant post-cod reverie when the next dish arrives: two mini-fillets of beautifully cooked wagyu beef with shitake mushroom, asparagus and crispy broccoli, and a smear of Peruvian anticucho sauce. Like the cod, it’s simple but perfectly executed, as is the next course: a punchy miso soup with pieces of silky tofu and several cockles.

Unfortunately, the magical mystery of my debut cocktail cannot be repeated. The second one, which takes more than half an hour to arrive, turns up during the miso course. But the aged tequila has, bafflingly, been replaced with cachaça, which is much too overpowering to be paired with such delicate cuisine. An apologetic server acknowledges the mistake and that’s that.

The culinary performance concludes with a whisky iced cappuccino, a Matsuhisa Paris signature, which looks like a regular mug of Cappuccino but contains a chocolate crumble and whisky mousse within.

The Omakase Menu contains a selection of dishes from the Nobu repertoire that have been delighting diners for years: perfectly executed concepts that demonstrate an incredible ability to balance flavours and bring out the best of an ingredient.

It is a retrospective rather than an exhibition: a celebration of time-proven dishes, rather than a showcase of new creations that are unique to this particular restaurant and locale. If you have never dined at a Nobu or Matsuhisa restaurant before, it offers a journey into the heart of the chef’s cuisine, and the EUR 130 price tag is quite reasonable for an eight-course gourmet experience in Paris.

Although it’s the sharing plates from the à la carte menu that are the most visually impressive showing off the artistic and sometimes whimsical presentation that make Nobu’s cuisine unique - it’s the simple things that resonate and remain with the discerning diner. After all, it’s hard to find fault in any chef who can turn a simple piece of cod into a culinary symphony.

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MATSUHISA PARIS Food: Atmosphere: Executive chef: Address: Telephone: Email: Cuisine: Lunch: Dinner:

Hideki Endo 37 Avenue Hoche, 75008 Paris, France +33 (0)1 42 99 98 70 dining.paris@raffles.com Peruvo-Japanese 12:00-14:30 Monday – Wednesday 19:00-22:30 Thursday – Saturday 19:00-23:30 Sunday 19:00-22:30 Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Children: High chairs available. No kids’ menu Credit cards: All major Parking: Free valet parking

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Lunch price:

Dinner price: Ideal meal: Website:

Signature bento box EUR 65, containing rock shrimp tempura; tuna sashimi salad; Matsuhisa dressing; black cod saikyo yaki; sushi selection; spicy sautéed vegetables; whisky iced cappuccino.

Yellowtail sashimi EUR 8; salmon tataki EUR 22; baby spinach salad EUR 26; rock shrimp tempura EUR 29; black cod saikyo yaki EUR 54; sushi selection, mochi EUR 15.

Eight-course Omakase tasting menu EUR 130 per person www.leroyalmonceau.com/restaurants/matsuhisa-paris

Reviewed by Joe Mortimer for dinner February 2019 Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

NEWCOMER APRON VIENNA

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits slick new APRON restaurant at Hotel am Konzerthaus Vienna MGallery by Sofitel, which serves fine dining-style cuisine in an unpretentious fashion

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otwithstanding the nation’s well-known pan-fried breaded veal dish of Wiener Schnitzel (the quality of which varies tremendously across the Austrian capital), the beautiful city of Vienna is vastly more well known for its numerous museums than it is for culinary excellence. The city has half a dozen or so Michelinstarred restaurants, but Michelin is not the barometer it once was, and fine dining is generally not accessible to the eating out masses and therefore not a fair indicator of a city’s gastronomic maturity. And while Vienna has plenty of pastry shops, coffee houses and wine bars, it distinctly lacks quality, mid-range restaurants which don’t break the bank.

There are many other cultural capitals in Europe which are in the same boat as Vienna. Berlin, for instance, rarely makes gastronomic headlines with its culinary exploits. But things are changing in Vienna (albeit at something of a snail’s pace!) and some notable restaurants have recently opened around the city.

Located between the city’s Konzerthaus and Akademietheater (both established performance venues), APRON opened earlier this year at Hotel am Konzerthaus in the third district. It is named after the part of a theatre stage that extends past the proscenium arch and into the audience area, since the restaurant’s kitchen is semi-open and partly visible to diners.

Whilst this is not ground-breaking in terms of Viennese restaurants, at APRON the “window” into the kitchen has been opened in a slightly more stylised fashion, allowing diners to see the finishing touches being put to dishes before service.

The APRON experience begins at the venue’s beautiful Deco-inspired bar, which separates the restaurant from the hotel’s lobby and casual dining area where guests can snack or grab a coffee in a relaxed environment.

Presided over by talented mixologists Adrian and Andrei, it wouldn’t be difficult to spend an entire evening at the bar, sipping delectable cocktails and listening to the stories behind them. The talented duo also routinely pair local spirits, wines and international classics with homemade essences, extracts and syrups to lovingly create a range of unique signature drinks.

APRON’s long main dining room is slick and smart yet warm and inviting, with a long banquette running the entire length of one wall uniting tables and diners. A plush, semi-open private dining room would work equally well for a cocktail party as it would for a celebratory banquet.

Formerly Chef de Cuisine at Vienna’s much lauded OPUS restaurant for which he won a Michelin star, Lower Austrian-born Stefan Speiser is in charge of APRON’s kitchen. Named Gault & Millau Newcomer of the Year 2017, Speiser was name-checked as one of Austria’s 50 best chefs earlier this year.

Speiser’s speciality is creating finely tuned, lighthearted Austrian-themed dishes, which often playfully incorporate global food trends. There’s a gentle sense of fun to Speiser’s fare which sets it apart from run-of-themill fine dining and adds a spirited aspect to everything that comes out of his kitchen. Speiser is also something of a vegetable expert ►

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knowing precisely how to bring out their best. And clever twists to classics (such as APRON’s excellent beef tartare) are executed to perfection, gently nudging them into the 21st century.

Every APRON dining experience begins with a butter candle in avintage brass holder accompanied by a range of dips and breads.

In stark contrast to other European restaurants serving such high-quality fare, the menu is easy to understand, and guests may order à la carte or opt for a tasting menu of as few or as manycourses as they fancy. Throughout the venue, an over-riding emphasis on quality, simplicity and value-for-money prevail.

These qualities, coupled with friendly and unstuffy service, make APRON a destination restaurant for an altogether enjoyable meal.

Standout dishes include a caviar that hails from the upper AustrianAlps and an exceptionally good first quality, grass-fed BOA beef. And whilst some desserts are given a royal touch with exclusive lemons grown in the citrus garden at Schönbrunn Palace, it has to be said that dining at APRON is something of acontemporary regal experience from start-to-finish, especially when feasting on a tasting menu. With culinarily creative Speiser at its helm, APRON will surely land accolades and win fans throughout the Austrian capital. www.restaurant-apron.at

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EXPERIENCE GUCCI GARDEN FLORENCE

ga fin

Brainchild of Gucci’s superstar creative director Alessandro Michele, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the brand’s restaurant, allery and concept store in Florence, GUCCI GARDEN, where the ne diner, museum goer and fashion aficionado can all coalesce

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hat Alessand ro Michele has done at Gucci in the past four years is nothing short of a complete overhaul of the iconic brand. So, the opening of Gucci Garden a year ago in Italy’s cultural capital, a natural progression of the designer’s creative spirit, would have come as little surprise to fashion aficionados and those that know him.

Few will know that Guccio Gucci founded the house of Gucci in Florence in the early 20th century. His first talent being his craftsmanship in leather goods, Gucci first opened a saddlery shop in 1906. It was 1921 when Gucci founded the fashion house bearing his name. Gucci grew and prospered in Florence and its surroundings, where the leather and textile industry was thriving.

Several years ago, Gucci moved its design headquarters to Rome, where it occupies a grand Renaissance building

called the Palazzo Alberini. Completed in 1519, the erection of the palazzo followed a plan which is widely believed to have been penned by Raphael and many art historians recognise his touch in the building’s elegantly geometric façade. The former chapel of the palazzo is now the office of Gucci’s creative director. Since January 2015 this position has been held by Michele, a Rome native in his forties, who worked at Gucci for 14 years before his ascension. In December 2014, Michele was second-in-command at the company, overseeing its accessories line. The following month it all changed.

Formerly of Fendi, Frida Giannini was Gucci’s creative director for eight years preceding Michele. During Giannini’s tenure, she begun a relationship with Gucci’s CEO Patrizio di Marco. Giannini and di Marco had a child together, but trouble was brewing. Fashion critics were growing bored with Giannini’s clothes, many of which reworked themes that Gucci had been working

since the nineties, when Tom Ford revitalised the brand by glamorously juxtaposing the clothes with some highly suggestive campaign imagery. Giannini looking to musical icons like David Bowie and eras such as the ’70s did little to help the brand’s underwhelming performance and declining prominence in fashion circles. Amid falling sales, Giannini and di Marco were rather unceremoniously fired in December 2014.

When Michele moved into the former chapel-cumoffice he immediately threw out its modern couches, instead filling the space with his personal collection of antiques, including a huge 19th century double desk, purchased from an antique store in Florence, designed so that two people can work opposite each other.

Having laboured for years at Gucci - all the while keeping a lid on his creative vision in the service of Giannini, and quietly learning how the company

worked - he stepped into the role of creative director with gusto. Within his first week he had overseen the design of an entirely new men’s collection. The complete antithesis to Giannini’s unadventurous designs, Michele’s first menswear collection at the helm of the brand included a blouse-like pink shirt fastened at the neck with a pussycat bow. In addition, Michele injected a distinctly modern edge into the runway show by presenting the garments on both male and female models. Two days after the show on 21st January 2015, Michele was officially promoted to creative director of Gucci.

Michele is a man who looks at modern fashion with a historical eye. Inspired by life rather than fashion, Michele has infused the famous Italian fashion house with a vitality and 21st century relevance that it had been lacking for many years. Tasked with resurrecting the brand following a number of disappointing seasons of underwhelming sales, as well as appealing to ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 209

millennial customers while still maintaining Gucci’s legacy as a premium brand, the Roman designer deftly achieved all three by pivoting to gender fluidity, bucolic imagery and downright maximalism. Nowhere is this more on display than Gucci Garden in Florence.

A historic jewel in the crown of the quintessentially Florentine fashion house, Gucci Museo next to Palazzo Vecchio in Florence had served as a shrine to its history, from Guccio Gucci’s beginnings in the early 1900s through to Tom Ford’s tenure and beyond. But in Michele’s mind, it had become tired, irrelevant and dated. Today, the industry in which Michele is making waves, embraces all corners of the fashion world, and the museum, in its former incarnation, just didn’t do the brand justice.

With Michele in the driving seat, the reimagined RESTAURANT museum was always going to be unique. Pushing the

fashion-food envelope to the next level, the historic 14th century Palazzo della Mercanzia now houses a multifunctional exhibition space spread over two floors, Gucci Garden Galleria, which visually traces the history of the brand; a unique gift shop-like concept store, Gucci Garden, bedecked with a variety of oneof-a-kind items spanning everything from chairs to clothes in a kaleidoscopic range of colours, and a Guccibranded restaurant, Gucci Osteria, conceptualised by much celebrated Italian chef Massimo Bottura.

Massimo Bottura’s small and discreet three Michelinstarred restaurant Osteria Francescana, located in the modest Italian town of Modena, topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016, was named number 2 in 2017 and returned to pole position in the 2018 edition as outright winner of The World’s Best Restaurant award. To deliver one of the world’s finest dining experiences, Bottura combines nods to tradition with

culinary modernity and serves plates bursting with good, old-fashioned flavours. It’s an Oscar-winning formula.

The culinary story at Gucci Osteria is thankfully much the same as Modena. In Florence, Bottura’s wellconsidered fare positively shines in the formal yet chic and comfortable green-walled Gucci-tinted dining room, decorated with renaissance stone carvings.

Guests enter the restaurant via the Gucci Garden shop and are seated without drama or fanfare. A plush, long, bottle green velvet banquette runs the length of one wall, while circular tables fill the length of the other. Staff are warm, friendly, knowledgeable and dressed in Gucci.

Fine white linen graces the tables. Food is served on distinctive, patterned Gucci crockery crafted in Richard Ginori porcelain. But despite being a Gucci restaurant the branding isn’t obviously in your face. It is subtle and has been executed in a skilful, utterly tasteful, fashion.

Bottura’s spins on global dishes are complete triumphs.

I could have eaten another three of the Chinese-style steamed bun filled with pork belly meat, which I wolfed down in rather un-Gucci-like fashion. Every dish that was delivered to the table, as part of the 7-course tasting menu, elicited delight in either my companion or I. The wine pairing was spot-on throughout. A gastronomic highlight of the meal was Bottura’s signature tortellini with parmesan cream dish which was simply divine.

If you have a few hours to spare, it’s certainly worth forking out for the rather reasonable EUR 90 tasting menu. Adding 7 glasses of paired wine at EUR 70 takes the bill to EUR 160 per person for the full enchilada. A candle in the gift shop next door costs more than that.

You can bet your best Gucci that my memory of the meal will remain long after the candle has burnt out. www.gucci.com/us/en/store/osteria-bottura Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 211

music & NIGHT LIFE

Widely recognised as one of the best cellists of his generation, DANIEL MĂœLLER-SCHOTT has played every great concert hall around the world

DANIEL MÜLLER-SCHOTT

DO YOU COME FROM A MUSICAL FAMILY? Yes, my mother was a piano teacher and played the harpsichord, so there was always music in the house.

She introduced my brother and I to music and regularly took us to orchestra rehearsals, so we had the chance to experience all different kinds of instruments and sounds.

WHY THE CELLO? When I was five years old, I sat in on a rehearsal of the Schumann Cello Concerto and was fascinated by the instrument’s sound and how it was played. I decided there and then that I wanted to learn how to play the cello and my mother helped me to find the right teacher. Holding and embracing the instrument is something very special and many people say that its warm sound is human-like. I feel more and more that the cello’s invention has changed many people’s lives. It certainly changed mine.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR TEENAGE YEARS AS A YOUNG CELLIST? I struggled with the cello at first. It took many years of determination to overcome the technical aspects of playing the instrument properly, and develop discipline and patience, before I was able to make a beautiful sound and express myself in the music. So, my teenage years as a cellist were a struggle and very challenging.

DID YOU ALWAYS WANT TO BE A SOLOIST? Yes, I always felt that I wanted to express myself in a very free way. Of course, as a cellist, one often depends on other musicians and are keen to share music with others. But whilst I love chamber music very much, the feeling ofplaying a cello concerto at the very front of an orchestra, and telling an intensely expressive story though the music, is something that always fascinated me deeply.

WHEN WAS THE FIRST TIME YOU PERFORMED IN PUBLIC AND HOW DID YOU FEEL? I was 6 years old. I can’t exactly remember how it felt (being such a long time ago!), but playing on stage always felt like a positive challenge to me and so I was never afraid of performing. Starting young helped me to become accustomed to being on stage and focus purely on the music when performing, rather than the surroundings. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 215

WHO WERE YOUNG DANIEL’S MUSICAL MENTORS? My mother and my teachers. I have been very lucky to have the support of many wonderful teachers throughout my career, including Walter Nothas with whom I studied for many years in Munich. Later I studied with Steven Isserlis (who became my “Cello Dad“) and Heinrich Schiff. Anne-Sophie Mutter was also a great mentor, and she recommended me to Mstislaw Rostropovich when I was seventeen.

YOU WERE TAUGHT BY CELEBRATED RUSSIAN CELLIST AND CONDUCTOR MSTISLAW ROSTROPOVICH FOR A YEAR. IN WHAT WAYS DID THIS SHAPE YOUR MUSICAL CAREER? Not least, he showed me the traditions of Russian expressiveness and “belcanto” playing and I could always ask him for advice which was incredibly valuable. Also, I played the works of some great composers with whom he was close friends, including Britten, Shostakovich and Prokofjev. Being taught by Mstislaw Rostropovich influenced me in innumerable ways and still impacts my playing today.

WHAT IMPACT DID WINNING FIRST PRIZE AT THE 1992 MOSCOW INTERNATIONAL TCHAIKOVSKY COMPETITION FOR YOUNG MUSICIANS HAVE ON YOUR LIFE AND PLAYING? This was a turning point for me, because it was the first time I truly believed that playing the cello could really be my future. So, winning the competition essentially changed my life, and there followed many invitations from orchestras around the world.

IT’S SAID THAT YOU HAVE A CHILDHOOD LOVE FOR THE MUSIC OF JOHANN SEBASTIAN BACH. HOW DOES BACH’S MUSIC SPEAK TO YOU DIFFERENTLY TO THAT OF OTHER COMPOSERS? My mother often played Bach at home, on the organ as well as the harpsichord. She also took me to famous oratorios of Bach’s music as a child, so I developed a love for his music early in my playing. When I began to study Bach’s Cello Suites they felt very familiar to me.

Some years later, it seemed very natural to play them as a whole and record them on CD. Today, Bach is always at the centre in my work and daily life as a musician.

I honestly feel like I am surrounded by Bach all the time. ► 216 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

YOU HAVE GUESTED WITH NUMEROUS ORCHESTRAS AROUND THE WORLD. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE A SOLOIST IN THE MIDST OF AN ORCHESTRA OF TALENTED PERFORMERS, AND HOW DO YOU HANDLE THE PRESSURE OF EVERYONE’S EYES BEING ON YOU WHEN YOU PLAY? Playing with different orchestras is wonderful because over the years you get to know many people around the world, especially when playing with them over and over again. I don’t think much about the pressure instead I focus on the music and how we can combine our energies by communicating through the language of music. As a soloist, I forget about myself when I’m playing and concentrate on what is most important in the music. This frees me to make the music sound more special.

YOU ARE AN ARDENT SUPPORTER OF THE EDUCATIONAL PROJECT RHAPSODY IN SCHOOL, WHICH PRESENTS CLASSICAL MUSIC TO SCHOOLCHILDREN AND TEENAGERS IN EUROPE, THE STATES, ASIA AND AUSTRALIA. HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED? My support of Rhapsody in School started over ten years ago. Lars Vogt was the founder and asked me if I would like to join the project. Since music has unfortunately become a lesser part of a general school education, we, as musicians, strive to show that classical music is an important part of our culture and cultural identity. I visit schools and speak to pupils about music; my life with music; why it is inspiring to play an instrument and how it feels to make music.

YOU HAVE ALREADY WON A NUMBER OF AWARDS AND MUCH RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD, INCLUDING THE DIAPASON D’OR IN FRANCE. WHAT DO THESE ACCOLADES MEAN TO YOU? They act as motivators and remind me that I am on the right path. I am also very grateful that so many people in the classical music world have noticed my work.

WHAT RESPONSIBILITIES COME WITH BEING A PROMINENT CELLIST OF YOUR STATURE? I believe that my “mission in music” is to pass on something to future generations, and convey the same to societies in different countries for them to build on. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 219

ASIDE FROM CLASSICAL, WHAT OTHER MUSIC GENRES DO YOU ENJOY? I enjoy many different types of music, including jazz, pop and rock. I recently saw a very good documentary about Michael Jackson, some of whose concerts I attended when I was a teenager. His singing and dancing always really impressed me. I believe that something can be learnt from every different genre of music.

WHO IS YOUR FAVOURITE MODERN-DAY CLASSICAL COMPOSER OR MUSICIAN AND WHY? André Previn, Peter Ruzicka, Sebastian Currier and Sofia Gubaidulina. I also love the works of Polish composer and conductor Krzysztof Penderecki; French composer Henri Dutilleux; German composer Hans Werner Henze, and American composer of modern classical and avant-garde music, George Crumb. Composer Pierre Boulez’s music is also wonderful. The music of our time is truly colourful.

WHICH HOLIDAY DESTINATION HOLDS THE FONDEST MEMORIES FOR YOU? Whilst I was fascinated by Australia and New Zealand, I also love visiting the mountains around Munich.

There are also many places in Austria and Switzerland that I often visit. I love being close to nature - whether by the sea or in the mountains - since being surrounded by purely calm elements is very refreshing. I get a lot of energy from these places.

YOU HAVE TOURED THE WORLD PERFORMING. OF ALL THE COUNTRIES YOU HAVE VISITED, IS THERE ONE WHICH YOU FEEL ESPECIALLY CONNECTED TO? It’s hard to pick one because I enjoy traveling around Europe so much. London is a great city with wonderful museums and an amazing energy. I always love visiting New York. Asia is fascinating. I enjoy being in Japan, South Korea and Taiwan.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR 2017-RELEASED ALBUM CELLO REIMAGINED AND THE INSPIRATION BEHIND IT? Cello Reimagined was exciting (especially for me!) because it enlarged the cello repertoire. For, whilst many wonderful pieces have been written for my instrument, a number of composers never wrote for the cello.

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Mozart adapted his Oboe Concerto for the flute. So, I thought this would be a great opportunity to turn the same piece into a cello concerto, not least because Mozart didn’t write any cello solo pieces. The Mozart piece was actually the basis of Cello Reimagined, which is essentially a mix of transcriptions I produced, plus some of my own cadenzas.

PLEASE REVEAL TO OUR READERS A SECRET IN-FLIGHT TIP? My in-flight routine is very un-special - I just sit, relax and enjoy. I sleep and read a lot. Of course, I also enjoy listening to music or watching new movies in-flight. But, most of all, I enjoy the cell phone-free time and often use it to study music scores and reflect.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL IN THE WORLD AND WHY? I don’t have a favourite, but I really liked the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, which boasts stunning harbour views from its rooms.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE AND WHAT IMPACT DID IT HAVE ON YOU? Speaking of career highlights is always difficult because I have had so many wonderful experiences for which I am grateful. I was recently on a wonderful tour with Julia Fischer (German classical violinist), Kirill Petrenko (Russian-Austrian conductor) and the Bayerisches Staatsorchester (Bavarian State Orchestra), which included playing at Hamburg’s Elbphilharmonie and Carnegie Hall in New York. Playing in such incredible venues is always special. The first time I performed with the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, and played Dvořák’s Cello Concerto, with Alan Gilbert, was definitely a career highlight.

WHAT’S TOP OF YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET LIST? Whilst I have visited many countries around the world, there are some that I would like to see which are less connected with classical music. These include South Africa, Thailand and India.

WHAT IS YOUR ULTIMATE GOAL AS A CELLIST? Share my music; move people with music and, basically, invite everyone to enjoy the world of music. www.daniel-mueller-schott.com/en Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 223

GLOBETROTTER

Adrian Gibson catches-up with the fast rising Shropshire-born menswear designer Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 225

Who has been your biggest fashion influence?

Upon leaving school at 16, I started an apprenticeship with a bespoke tailor called Arthur Pardington in Market Drayton. Arthur produced bespoke shooting attire and traditional English country wear for the local land owners in-andaround Shropshire, as well as J. Purdey & Sons in London which has held royal warrants since 1868.

Arthur had a huge impact on me and my work. I grew up in a house where we were told we could do anything we wanted if we worked for it, so I did!

Please talk us through the creative process for a season?

I start by pulling together a visual mood board of ideas, fabrics, colours and suchlike, based on past sales and collections that have been well received. Then I begin to build a range plan for the collection. From this, I share the ideas with my stylist and art director who often feedback their inspired thoughts and ideas. Then I spend time drawing the collection out and developing patterns for each of the garment ideas. We then produce toiles and prototypes for each garment. Fittings are then held where we photograph them all. Once we have finished photographing, we lay each image out and work through which of the looks works best and edit accordingly. Throughout this process, we come up with additional ideas which are added and considered. We continue to work through everything until I feel that the collection is complete and ready to sample in the actual fabrics.

What are your thoughts on having a muse?

I have always been inspired by the men in and around my life. To think outside the box, outside one’s little world, can be difficult at times. Having a muse makes me, as a designer, question what I do, who it’s for and its end use. My collaboration with many companies, from high street to high fashion, have provided an opportunity to introduce our products and aesthetic to a vast client base.

A few years ago, we decided to show our clothes on a muse via an editorial campaign. The idea was for someone who appreciated what we did, and who joe public could relate to, to be seen in our clothes in magazines and online. ► 226 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

How did Lou Dalton team-up with British actor Russell Tovey?

I had admired Russell Tovey for some time, and, thanks to social media, we struck-up a friendship.

Having been the unofficial face of the brand for a few seasons, I was obviously thrilled when he agreed to become the actual frontman as the campaign star for the AW16 season. To date I have produced four campaigns with Russell, which many menswear magazines kindly supported, including GQ, Fantastic Man and Man About Town, to name but a few. I am currently looking into alternative ways to showcase my collections and hope to pick-up working with Russell again in the very near future.

Please tell The Cultured Traveller about your collaborations with iconic British knitwear brand John Smedley?

John Smedley is a well-respected, iconic British knitwear company which I am honoured to be collaborating with. John Smedley is striving to encourage and help strengthen UK clothing manufacturing. I was fortunate enough to be one of the designers the brand chose to collaborate with.

Working with such an established company gives incredible reassurance to a buyer regarding the delivery of products and the quality of the making.

What did you last wear when on the red carpet?

For the 2017 British Fashion Awards, I wore a Dries Van Noten high-collared black shirt, Marni black pleated skirt, Marni shoes, Falke opaque tights, Prada earrings and a Lou Dalton black lacquered swing overcoat from my AW16 collection.

Which of your collections do you think has most defined you as a designer and why?

SS13 was a turning point for Lou Dalton as a label, because the likes of Liberty and Dover Street Market started to retail the collection. AW16 was an incredibly personal collection and related to a special time I spent in Shetland. AW16 was also the first collection that Russell Tovey fronted and is still very much one of my favourites. For AW17 I decided to present the collection in a studio, rather than show it on a catwalk, which was like turning a new page and start a new chapter. Since then, the brand has gone from strength-to-strength. ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 229

AW19 marks the beginning of a collaboration with archetypal luxury British designer brand Gloverall, which is famous for its duffle coats.

We know that you’re very much into art. Who are you favourite artists?

When I like an artist and their work, I tend to stick with it regardless of whether it’s in fashion one minute or out the next. Rachel Whiteread, Wolfgang Tillmans, Rebecca Horn, John Currin, Cindy Sherman, David Hockney, Francis Bacon, Ben Nicholson and Barbara Hepworth will all, forever, inspire me.

What music are you listening to at the moment?

I have an eclectic, ongoing Spotify playlist that I keep building from day-to-day. It includes music I listened to as a kid - including The Fall, The Smiths and Joy Division - through to A Guy Called Gerald, Raze, Joe Smooth and Andrew Weatherall. You’ll also find Roy Orbison, Ry Cooder and Robert Plant in there. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea but it’s mine!

Where is home for you right now, and what’s the best and worst thing about it?

London. The best thing about living in the British capital, is that although the streets are not paved with gold, being in London instils you with the belief that you can do and be whatever you want. The worst is that my fiancé Justin isn’t in London as much as I would like him to be!

Favourite hotel in the world and why?

Glengorm Castle on the Isle of Mull in Scotland.

More a country house than a castle, Glengorm was built in the 1860s and overlooks the Sound of Mull, Ardnamurchan Peninsula and outlying islands.

My first holiday with Justin was a road trip around Scotland. Singing along to Loretta Lynn as we were driving, we ended up on the Isle of Mull. Glengorm is a wonderfully magical place and still family run I believe. At sunset the Outer Hebrides are stunningly vivid in the distance. (www.glengormcastle.co.uk)

Any travel tips for our readers?

Take the time to read up on where you are going. Being a little informed always comes in culturally handy. ► 230 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

What four items can you not do without in your hand luggage on a flight?

Wet wipes, Elizabeth Arden Eight-Hour Cream (developed in the 1930s but still one of the best skin protectants on sale today), hand cream and a pillow.

Any holiday plans for 2019?

Palma for a week of sun, the Yorkshire Dales to walk part of the Pennine Way, and Baku to spend some time with my man!

Favourite place to eat in the world?

Kennedy’s of London serves the best fish and chips in town and I often take the team to eat there when we have finished a collection. There’s usually a fleet of London cabs lined-up outside Kennedy’s - not waiting for a fare, but inside grabbing a bite to eat! (www.kennedyslondon.co.uk)

What do you do to relax?

The usual: read, go to the cinema and theatre, listen to music, see exhibitions and travel. I work a lot, so any time away from fashion feels like a luxury. I have recently been going to the gym a lot, since they say that exercise is good for the mind, body and your soul.

With Lou Dalton being picked up by Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Browns in London recently, amongst others, it feels like the brand is really gaining traction at home and abroad. What do you put this down to?

A change in approach to the business and what we do. I spent many seasons putting together catwalk show after catwalk show, losing huge amounts of cash as well as my mind. Taking stock of who we are and what we do helped me to identify what my strengths were as a designer and as a business.

And working with established companies that have a strong manufacturing machine in place has helped bring to life a more focused contemporary collection which is both affordable and well-made.

Lou Dalton is very popular in Japan where a number of retailers stock the brand. What do you think particularly appeals to the Japanese market? ► Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 233

Working with John Smedley and Gloverall of course strengthens Lou Dalton’s appeal since they both have strong footfall within Japan. Saying that, I believe that our approach to design for the last couple of seasons, focusing on core contemporary garments, has also heavily influenced the increased interest from Japan.

The brand is launching an online store for SS19. What challenges does this present to the business?

This will be our second attempt at retailing via our own e-store. When I chose to pull away from the catwalk, I also called time on the online store, not least because we were spending a lot of cash with little return. This time the online focus is to offer a slightly more bespoke service, with garments being made to order and a slightly longer delivery window of 4-5 days. Although customers like to buy instantly as it were, sustainability has also become increasingly important. There is too much product out there, online, and a lot of wastage in the industry. So, whilst I do believe that it is key for the brand to have an online presence, I believe it is my responsibility to be mindful on what we produce, where we produce and how much we produce.

Talk us through your inspiration for Lou Dalton’s AW19 collection?

For Autumn/Winter 2019, I looked to the individuals who have historically challenged the “false reality” created by incumbent rulers and regimes. I took inspiration from the “severe style” movement, namely Azerbaijani painter and draughtsman Tahir Salahov, adopted the utilitarian silhouettes of the industrial workers depicted in such works, and combined them with the sparing palette of contrasting vibrant and muted tones originally used to accurately portray true life in the Soviet 1960s.

What changes do you see on the horizon for the menswear market?

Considering Brexit and general world affairs, and at a time when global greed and domination are rife, as consumers it’s inevitable that we will all be affected.

I think a desire to own less and be more resourceful is key. One needs to be open to change. And I believe that sustainability will become more important within the menswear sector over the next few seasons. www.loudalton.com 234 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

2 2019 F1 AUSTRALIAN GRAND PRIX www.australia-grand-prix.com/en

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kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/159

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U ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL ultramusicfestival.com

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Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 237

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